THE FOUR KINGS OF THE EAST

first heard of Raja Ampat from a diving buddy of mine. It was one of those destinations whispered by avid scuba divers over a few cold beers, its mention so often followed by a moment of silent wonder and reflection. You fly to Jakarta, so the story went, and then travel the length of the world’s largest archipelago, leaving civilisation behind as you reach the island of Papua, a wild place of isolated tribes, headhunting and