Pralines: How They Cook’Em in New Orleans

THIRTY-FIVE YEARS AGO, WHEN LORETTA Harrison opened Loretta’s Authentic Pralines in New Orleans’ old Jax Brewery building, she became the first African-American woman to own and operate a praline company in the Crescent City—a distinction she characterizes as relative. “While mine may have been the first brick-and-mortar store here,” Harrison says, “many other entrepreneurial black women preceded me.”

Indeed, free women of color have been selling pralines in the French Quarter since before the Civil War. The history is, of course, complicated. Though street-vending granted these, a book of Louisiana folklore published in 1945, the authors noted that “the delicious Creole confections…have been vended by Negresses of the ‘Mammy’ type.” This kind of racist iconography would persist, with at least one local praline brand employing such shameful imagery into this century.

Você está lendo uma amostra, registre-se para ler mais.

Mais de Saveur

SaveurLeitura de 7 minsCookbooks, Food, & Wine
My Father’s French Onion Soup
My father gave me his letters from paris. Written with a fountain pen on onionskin stationery and folded in envelopes marked Par Avion, these formative accounts were addressed to my grandmother, and mailed during the year he studied art in Montparnas
SaveurLeitura de 1 mins
A New Way to Nightcap
For four generations, the Fougerat family has produced single-cask Cognac for larger, blended brands like Martell. But in 2013, 33-year-old scion Fanny—one of the French region’s few female master distillers—broke out and began selling her own undilu
SaveurLeitura de 14 mins
Return To Oaxaca
When my father moved our family from Oaxaca to Los Angeles in 1994, he told us we would only be there for a year. I was 9 years old then, excited to learn a new language and enamored with the America I saw on TV shows like Saved by the Bell and Full