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NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

The Surprising Versatility of Juniper

THE BERRIES OF THIS EVERGREEN LEND FLAVOR TO A LOT MORE THAN GIN AND GENEVER

THE LAST TIME YOU EXPERIENCED THE PINEY, citrusy flavor of juniper was likely on the business end of a dry martini (see “Genever Is the Original Juniper Spirit,” p. 25). But the conifer’s fragrant fruit (botanically closer to a tiny, dense pine cone) pops up all across Europe in non-alcoholic fare, too. The berries are a key ingredient in choucroute garnie, that hearty Alsatian braise of sauerkraut and pork. Juniper’s used to coat the outside of cheeses, including Italy’s Pecorino Ginepro and Corsica’s fleur du maquis. And we’ve discovered that a few berries add a lovely kick to cranberry sauce—just be sure to strain them out before serving, as they’re not so pleasant to chew. —Chris Cohen

Miso, Still Magical

were a lifeline during my early years in Japan. In the 1990s, English-language books weren’t available where I lived, in the outer Saitama prefecture, so when Issue 27 of arrived in my mailbox during the summer of 1998,

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