AUSTRIA

GRÜNER VELTLINER SMARAGD

96 F X Pichler 2018 Ried Kellerberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). A hint of apple freshness and crushed wild thyme savoriness play aromatically on the nose before riper notions of pear and Mirabelle plum hit. On the palate it is saltiness that prevails. A zesty, tingling core of yeasty salt, celery and white pepper sends its wonderfully sharp flavors through the generous fruit on the palate. This is mouthfilling, bold and big but also linear and precise. A picture of bundled, spicy power. Drink 2030–2045. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —A.K.

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

96 F X Pichler 2018 Ried Liebenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Dried moss, warm stone, ripe russet pear and a gorgeous pithy citrus note spell concentration on the nose already. The palate then homes in on the zesty, concentrated core of savoriness: that salty, yeasty, zesty, peppery heart from which pulsating energy emanates. This is bold, vivid, energetic and warm. The finish rounds these notions out with its generous fruit ripeness, but there is no denying that this is bold, full and daring. Drink 2030–2045. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —A.K.

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

95 Alzinger 2018 Ried Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). A whiff of passion fruit lends a tropical overtone to the full-on ripeness on the nose. The palate continues with this swishing, generous juiciness that showcases Mirabelle plum and ripe pear. Structural elements of bitter pith, salty yeast and tingling zest complete the picture of a most concentrated, energetic and driven wine that resonates with life and flavor. This is warm and powerful but beautifully streamlined. Drink 2030–2045. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.K.

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Dried white currant and dried lemon peel create a lifted, intense but also very pure nose. The palate picks up these zesty notions and uses them to corral generous ripeness that suggests gilded, glowing, almost candied pear and Mirabelle plum. All. —A.K.