Ulpma (Serpentine Gorge)
E MAKE CAMP just off the Larapinta Trail on a flat claypan covered in flannel flowers. Cold frosts our breath. We lie on the ground watching stars fall below the bulge of the starry coolamon, the Corona Australis,
Oru Bay ST Kayak
THE FIRST TIME I encountered the curious phrase ‘folding kayak’ was reading Paul Theroux’s 1992 travel book The Happy Isles of Oceania, in which he explores the South Pacific in a 16-foot Klepper Aerius, a German craft assembled from wood and rubber-
