BEYOND ASSYRTIKO

From hazy tourist memories of bad retsina served in terrible glasses in tavernas, to the sensational modern-day Assyrtikos of Santorini island, Greek wine has come a long way. This is particularly felt in the country’s whites, which highlight freshness and structure, with moderate alcohol levels that rarely exceed 13.5%. There’s also an unexpected common thread – a saline aftertaste. Assyrtiko doesn’t have a monopoly on this, as a handful of other exciting white varieties have come to the fore.

Savatiano and pink-skinned Roditis account for one third of the 65,000ha total Greek vineyard. These varieties, traditionally associated with retsina, are being reinvented by passionate producers. Savatiano, which has its home in Attica, shows moderately intense aromas of apples, white peach and melon. It ages well, developing