Florida's Lower Keys

FLORIDA'S LOWER KEYS

Bruce Morris

HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC.

www.hunterpublishing.com

E-mail comments@hunterpublishing.com

IN CANADA:

Ulysses Travel Publications

4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec, Canada H2W 2M5

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IN THE UNITED KINGDOM:

Roundhouse Group

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© 2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.

This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

Maps © 2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc.

Introduction

Why Come?

How this Book is Organized

History

Florida Before Columbus

Explorers & Conquistadors

Pirates

Industries

Wrecking

Sponging

Plume Hunting

Cigars

Flagler's Railroad & the Overseas Highway

The Growth of Tourism

The Land

Barrier Reefs & How the Keys Were Formed

The Gulf Stream

Parks & Preserves

The River of Grass

Climate

Summertime

Hurricanes

Wintertime

Flora & Fauna

Birds

Big Cats

Deer

Insects

Raccoons

Reptiles

Life in the Sea

Dolphins

Fish

Manatees

Turtles

Whales

The Florida Keys & the Everglades Today

The Arts

Fairs & Festivals

Food

Cost

Music

People

Gay Life

Indigenous Cultures

Retirees

Conchs

Tourists

Adventures

On Land

Hikes & Walks

Beachcombing

Cycling

By Moped

In the Water

Beaches

Boating

Canoeing & Kayaking

Dolphin Interaction

Fishing

Scuba Diving

Snorkeling

In the Air

Flightseeing Tours

Author's Top Things to Do

Travel Information

The Region At a Glance

The Keys

Key West

Everglades National Park

When to Visit

Holidays & Cultural Events

Lower Keys

At a Glance

Getting Here & Getting Around

Area History & Highlights

Information Sources

Sightseeing

Suggested Itineraries

If You Have One Day

If You Have Three Days

If You Have a Week

Beaches

Parks

Adventures

On Foot

Bridge Walks

Flats Wading

On Water

Canoeing & Kayaking

Whale Rehab

Fishing

Scuba Diving

In the Air

Where to Stay

Ratings & Prices

Hotels & Resorts

Camping

Vacation Rentals

Where to Eat

Recommendations

Best of the Rest

Nightlife

Key West

At a Glance

Getting Here & Getting Around

Area History & Highlights

Services

Bookstores

Public Library

Film Processing

Sightseeing

Suggested Itineraries

If You Have One Day

If You Have Three Days

If You Have a Week

Attractions

Beaches

Parks

Gay Key West

Adventures

On Foot

Birding

Golf

On Wheels

On Water

Boat Tours & Sunset Cruises

Canoeing & Kayaking

Fishing

Bridge & Shore Fishing

Scuba Diving

Snorkeling

Watersports

In the Air

Aerial Tours & Seaplane Rides

Where to Stay

Ratings & Prices

Hotels & Resorts

Camping

Vacation Rentals

Where to Eat

Recommendations

The Best of the Rest

Nightlife

Introduction

As a boy growing up in Miami I fell in love with the beauty of the Keys and the wilderness of the Everglades. With a friend, I spent my weekends snorkeling, pole fishing along the Tamiami Trail and sailing in the Keys. When I was a teenager, my family moved to the hills of Tennessee (with its own wilderness charms) and I was unable to visit South Florida for almost 20 years. When I managed to return for a visit I was afraid that the over-development and urban sprawl I had seen in other parts of Florida had turned the Keys into just another tacky tourist haven. Thankfully, my fears were unfounded. Certainly, there are more hotels and cheesy, tourist-oriented attractions now than when I was a boy, but the minimal change surprised me. Although not totally unspoiled, both the Keys and the Everglades remain beautiful, full of wildlife and adventure. The fishing, diving and beautiful natural vistas I enjoyed as a boy are still there, and the magic of them can be easily appreciated by car, bike, boat or on foot.

To me, the greatest adventures in the Everglades and Keys involve the wonderful diversity of wildlife, plants and life in the sea. Part, if not most, of the fun of fishing is having an excuse to roam around the flats and reefs checking out birds and sea critters. The best part of scuba diving and snorkeling is looking for - and sometimes coming face-to-face with - some of the strangest looking creatures imaginable. On a short walk along any of the trails in Everglades National Park, you might just spot alligators, crocodiles, vultures or snapping turtles. I'm not much of a birder, but this region of Florida helps me to understand how enthusiasms can grow into intensely absorbing hobbies. Even with my casual knowledge of birds, I enjoy seeing anhingas, diving ducks, pelicans and egrets. I don't keep lists of the fish I see when diving, but I do enjoy browsing through reef fish identification charts after a dive and learning the names and habits of the psychedelically colored fish I encountered.

Adventure is where you find it and what you make it. It can be observing birds nesting, snorkeling almost motionlessly over sawgrass flats, watching shrimp do their thing, or scuba diving at the edge of the Gulf Stream while looking out for bull sharks and pelagic predators. But then, there is also plenty of adventure to be found almost any night on Duval Street in Key West.

Why Come?

Leaving the more earthly delights of Key West aside for a moment, the Keys and Everglades are places for people who enjoy the outdoors, particularly the sea. Because the water here is relatively shallow, calm and accessible, sea life is easily seen and appreciated. Coral reefs - surely one of the wonders of the world - are still astounding and relatively unspoiled, and the austere beauty of the Everglades has been preserved by the creation of the national park, which is now one of the Park Service's crowning jewels.

For the historically curious as well as hard-core party people or laid-back drifters, Key West is a paradise at the end of the road. If you plan to visit briefly for a few nights of fun, or want to stay awhile and gently go to seed (as so many do), Key West has all that lures such ambitions. The smell, flavor and visions of Hemingwayesque Old Key West with its pirates, spongers, quaint homes (many now serving as B&Bs) and historical walks exist in the middle of one of the premier party towns in the US. Key West lures the young, happy partygoers. A popular spring break destination, it has more festivals, street parties and loud, raucous bars and clubs than you'll have time to visit in a week. As a permanent residence for gay living and visits, the tolerant lifestyle and attitudes of the island are renowned.

While one can have a fine time in the Keys or Everglades without ever setting foot in a boat or dipping a toe in the water, the bulk of the area's charms lie offshore on the reefs, flats and in the canals and mangrove estuaries. To get the full Keys or Everglades experience, a boat, canoe, kayak or even an inner tube are required. Drifting over the shallow flats looking in the turtle grass at exotic seahorses is an experience that can't be had elsewhere. Some of the finest coral reefs in the world are hidden just a few miles offshore and are accessibly shallow, well preserved and astounding in their riot of color and unusual formations.

The sportfishing capital of the US, the Keys and Florida Bay offer both delicate fly-fishing for bonefish and pole-busting sailfish and tarpon action. Guides abound. Trips lasting a day or just a few hours can be arranged with little or no advance notice. Some guides even offer no fish, no pay guarantees.

The Everglades seem a long way from Key West. There are no neon signs, no blazing bars, no clubs with guitar-strumming comedians. Instead there is profound silence, slow-moving canals, the desolate beauty of swamps and a sky filled with puffy white clouds gliding over endless miles of saw grass. The Everglades have long attracted the adventurous and those who appreciate nature at its wildest. Parks are designed to make it possible for wheelchair-bound travelers to access the wilderness and appreciate the beauty and variety of birds, exotic orchids, and even hissing crocodiles. To truly enjoy the area, one must be in a reflective and observant mood. Sometimes you have to look hard to spot the attractions. Fortunately, help in the form of the Park Service is at hand, with educational tours, guided walks and paddling expeditions on offer.

The balmy climate, tolerant lifestyle and outdoor opportunities attract a goodly share of retirees and snowbirds fleeing the frozen north. I loved playing here when I was growing up, and I plan on spending many years of my retirement doing the same. A small house on the bay with a dock, snorkeling and fishing gear, and a cooler of beer are all I need. Apparently, many others feel the same way.

How this Book is Organized

This book is designed as a complete guide for the adventurous. I don't mention every bar, hotel, sandbar, stretch of swamp or reef, just the best or most noteworthy in each category. The Introduction and Travel Information chapters should give you a good feel for the region and all that it offers. They provide all the information you need to plan your trip.

The rest of the book is divided into five region - the Upper Keys, Marathon Area, Lower Keys, Key West and the Everglades. Each of those regional chapters has a brief introductory section and a list of the highlights. Then it's on to the available adventures - on land, on water or even in the air - as well as the guides who can help you enjoy them. Sights and attractions are next. My selection of the best hotels and restaurants is just that, a selection. While many guidebook authors visit as many as five or six hotels and several restaurants every day during their research in an attempt to be complete or comprehensive, I have personally stayed in almost all of the hotels listed, most of them for at least two nights. Any that I have not visited come highly recommended by trustworthy friends or family. My recommendations are based on firsthand experience, not a walk through the lobby. Finally, you'll find details about the local party spots and other nightlife, everything from mild to wild.

History

Florida Before Columbus

When Europeans discovered Florida it was already home to hundreds of thousands of Native Americans who enjoyed a rich culture and reasonably comfortable lifestyle. Although relatively barbarous and violent compared with our conception of civilized behavior today, their lifestyle was as comfortable and safe as that of the average rural European of the time.

Hundreds of archeological sites in the Everglades show signs of Paleo-Indian activity from approximately 10,000 BC. Bison, mammoth, saber-toothed tigers and other large beasts shared the area. The pre-glacial period humans were likely hunter-gatherers subsisting on small game, fruits of the sea and foraged vegetable foods. But as the glaciers retreated and the sea level rose, the climate changed and the present form of the Everglades began to take shape with cypress and saw grass swamps. The Archaic Period (8,000-750 BC) saw indigenous peoples developing basic tools and pottery, shards of which are still found today. During the Glades Period (750 BC-AD 1500), some permanent settlements developed and evidence - indicated by finds of ornaments and pottery typical of other regions - reveals there was extensive trade between people here and those in the Caribbean and Central America. During the Historic Contact Period (AD 500-1750), tribes that included the Calusa, Tequesta, Jeaga and Mayaimi may have had a combined population of as high as 20,000. As the Spaniards explored the area they spread diseases common in Europe, such as measles and syphilis, but they were new to the Florida region and decimated the population. Slavery and death, the byproducts of Spanish conquest, further contributed to the decline of the indigenous population, and by 1750 few of the original natives remained. European settlers arrived, driving the newer Creek and Cherokee residents deep into the Everglades. Between 1817 and 1858, bands of Indians, fleeing from the Seminole Wars and deportation to reservations in Oklahoma, formed the backbone of what is now known as the Seminole tribe. Their descendants still live in Florida, concentrating on the fringes of the Everglades.

Explorers & Conquistadors

As Columbus, Ponce de Leon, De Soto and other explorers moved through the area claiming land for European kings and queens, they dispensed violent and casual death. While few (some would call them conquistadors, others would call them invaders) were slaughtered by indignant indigenous warriors, the superior European technology and use of horses pretty much assured the eventual dominance of the new arrivals. Unfortunately, respect for human life was not a widely followed idea and, indeed, many of the explorers did not consider the natives to be human at all. Natives died in their thousands at the hands of the explorers and from the deadly diseases brought with them.

Early settlements were tough places for new arrivals in Florida, and violent or unpleasant death was more frequent than long healthy life. Considering the difficult circumstances, hostile natives and unpleasant climate, the courage and audacity of the early explorers is remarkable. Florida would remain sparsely settled until the invention of air-conditioning made life here tolerable.

Pirates

The golden age of pirates lasted only about 100 years, but it was such a colorful time that books, movies, theme parks and legends of pirate gold still make Florida a dream destination for children of all ages. The numerous islands and shallow twisting waterways made the area a prime hiding place for rogues of the sea. Caesar's Creek, a winding, tidal channel separating