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    Smart Guide Italy Northern Cities: Milan, Venice, Turin & Genova: Smart Guide Italy, #9
    Smart Guide Italy Northern Cities: Milan, Venice, Turin & Genova: Smart Guide Italy, #9
    Smart Guide Italy Northern Cities: Milan, Venice, Turin & Genova: Smart Guide Italy, #9
    Ebook236 pages3 hours

    Smart Guide Italy Northern Cities: Milan, Venice, Turin & Genova: Smart Guide Italy, #9

    By Alexei Cohen

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    About this ebook

    Smart Guide Italy is the only digital travel guide that covers all of Italy's regions and is written, researched, and investigated by full-time residents. Each title in the series provides insights to the most important monuments and practical information for eating, drinking, sleeping and having a good time in Italy. With Smart Guide Italy travellers can focus entirely on the city and region they want to visit.

    Smart Guide also operates a convenient online accommodation service which helps visitors get an insider's perspective on Italy, lower their CO2 impact and save.

    Other titles in the Smart Guide Italy series include:
    Rome & Lazio
    Florence & Tuscany
    Venice & Veneto
    Milan & Lombardy
    Naples & Campania
    Turin, Piedmont & Aosta Valley
    Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice & Naples

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherAlexei Cohen
    Release dateMay 31, 2012
    ISBN9781476424217
    Smart Guide Italy Northern Cities: Milan, Venice, Turin & Genova: Smart Guide Italy, #9
    Author

    Alexei Cohen

    I fell in love with Italy while watching the movie La Strada in the basement of my university library. Since then I have met and married an Italian, written and edited several guides and enjoyed a lot of pasta, wine and gelato. I live with my family on the outskirts of Rome and cultivate my passion for Italy a little more everyday. Moon Rome, Florence & Venice is my latest book and a result of months of exploration. I look forward to sharing what I have discovered and meeting travelers in Rome to swap stories over a cappuccino.

    Read more from Alexei Cohen

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      Book preview

      Smart Guide Italy Northern Cities - Alexei Cohen

      Smart Guide Italy: Northern Italian Cities

      Milan, Venice, Turin & Genova

      Published by Smart Guides

      Smashwords Edition

      Copyright 2012 Alexei Cohen

      Discover other titles in the Smart Guide series:

      Rome & Lazio

      Florence & Tuscany

      Venice & Veneto

      Naples & Campania

      Turin, Piedmont & Aosta Valley

      Genova & Liguria

      Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice & Naples

      Smashwords Edition, License Notes

      This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If you’re reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to smashwords.com and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.

      Smart Accommodation:

      Smart Guide has teamed up with over 5,000 bed and & breakfasts, self-catering apartments and small hotels in order to provide travelers with convenient, reasonably priced accommodation in the best locations throughout Italy. To view all our accommodation options visit our website and choose the one that’s right for you. Enjoy the journey!

      Smart Answers:

      Travel requires making choices. If you have any questions regarding your trip to Italy write to us and we will get back to you within 24 hours. If you have any comments or suggestions that will help improve future editions we’d love to hear them.

      CONTENTS

      FOREWORD

      Dear Traveler,

      This Smart Guide edition is intended for people who want to experience urban Italy. It covers four remarkable Northern Italian cities that are relatively close geographically yet infinitely different culturally and artistically. Milan, Venice, Turin and Genova each offer travelers a unique experience but seeing them all in succession provides an even greater sensation and a singular insight into Italy.

      Although we’ve started with Milan for convenience sake there is no ideal order to visiting the cities. We do however suggest traveling from one to the other by train in order to avoid the hazards of Italian traffic and discovering each destination from its historic center. Tickets can be easily purchased in advance or directly at the station.

      Another recommendation is Smart Guide Italy B&B where you’ll find convenient accommodation. Staying in the comfort of an Italian home helps get a local perspective and save. Visit our website and choose the accommodation you prefer.

      Enjoy the journey!

      Alexei Cohen

      Series Editor

      INTRODUCTION

      Italian cities are unique but none are more so than those in Northern Italy. Here within several hundred kilometers are a city of style, a city on the sea, a royal city and one nestled between mountains and the rest of the world. Each deserves several days of exploration and will leave you with a completely different perspective on urban Italy.

      Milan is the gateway to the North and the capital of Lombardy. The city isn’t that big and to New Yorkers or Londoners may feel small. Size is an advantage though and you can visit all of the central neighborhoods on foot or with the efficient subway. Fun in Milan starts after dark and is fueled by a dynamic fashion and entertainment industry.

      Venice has no equals. Rome may be more ancient, Florence more crammed with art but none are as breathtaking as Venice. The city on the lagoon is one of Italy’s most incredible wonders, ingrained in popular imagination, yet never failing to exceed expectations.

      Turin is home of Fiat and Kings. The first Italian capital balances innovation with age-old traditions, Egyptian relics with Olympic stadiums, cappuccino with hot chocolate and countless other flavors that have delighted locals for centuries and leave visitors asking for more.

      Genova stretches along the Ligurian coast and is one of the great Italian contradictions. It is open yet closed, reliant on the sea yet weary of what it may bring. The contrasts are evident as you explore the maze of narrow historic streets and walk through the old town on your way to the revitalized port.

      Which ever city you choose your senses will be stimulated and surprised, your palate rewarded and your curiosity filled with beauty and culture unlike any other.

      PACKING

      The contents of your suitcase depends on the season and length of stay. Beware of overpacking and select comfortable clothing that can easily be mixed and matched. Layers are important in spring and fall when mornings are chilly and temperatures vary throughout the day. A bag with wheels will make getting around train stations and to the next hotel easier. Backpacks or handbags are good for storing items you’ll take on daily excursions and should have zippers to dissuade pickpockets. It’s probably best to leave expensive watches at home and travel without any flashy jewelry. A money belt can be useful for storing valuables and cash.

      Some formal clothes may be necessary if you plan on any fine dining or clubbing. Italians generally like to dress up and rarely let their fashion guard down. Flipflops are fine for the beach but generally unacceptable within churches where modesty is preferred. Sun glasses are essential during the summer especially if you’ll be doing any driving and baseball hats are useful even if they aren’t often worn by Italians. A high spf sun lotion is also vital as cities get hot in July and August and can help avoid a redneck.

      You’ll probably do more walking in Italy than at home and it’s hazardous for your feet to break in a new pair of shoes on cobblestone streets. Bring at least two comfortable pairs especially if you plan on visiting all four cities. If you’re only off for a week it may be useful to buy sample size shampoo, toothpaste, and soap that will keep weight down and cause less damage if they accidentally open. If you forget something you shouldn’t have a problem finding it in Italy and pharmacies are especially useful for replacing lost toiletries or picking up aspirin. If you take prescription medicine make sure to bring enough and have a copy of the prescription in case you need a refill.

      Most hotels provide hairdryers but if you are staying in a B&B you may want to pack a small one. It should be adaptable to Italy’s 220 voltage. A European plug converter is useful for recharging mp3 players, digital cameras, cellular phones and of course your tablet or e-reader. Adapters can be hard to find in Italy and airports are usually the best place to pick them up. If you’re taking photos the old fashion way stock up on film before you leave as it’s more expensive in Italy. An extra memory card is useful for digital photographers planning on documenting every step of the journey.

      Items like binoculars are helpful for observing The Last Supper, church facades, and Italian football. Pack a pen if you plan on writing any postcards and a notebook for jotting down impressions of each city you can compare later. Even if you aren’t an artist try sketching the sights or making souvenir rubbings of any Roman ruins you encounter. A good book will help pass the time on train or bus trips or while waiting your turn at the post office.

      You’ll need your passport and a driving license if you plan on renting a car. An international license is not required but can avoid confusion if you are pulled over. It costs $15 and is available from any AAA office in the United States or AA in the UK. Making a copy of vital documents facilitates replacing them should they be lost or stolen. You can also email yourself any important credit card codes or customer service numbers to report stolen cards. Most of all don’t forget to pack your curiosity.

      TOP STOPS

      La Scala/Milan

      Italy is a musical country and if you have some opera on your mp3 player La Scala is the place to hit play. The five-tier red velvet interior is a delight for the eyes. But the true experience can only be heard in this mythic theater where Maria Callas was booed and tenors have been goaded off the stage.

      The Last Supper/Milan

      Once you’ve seen The Last Supper and decided for yourself whether the figure to Jesus’ right is a disciple or a girlfriend you’ve seen it all. Da Vinci doesn’t disappoint and any trouble you’ve had reaching Santa Maria delle Grazie is worth 15 minutes in front of this world famous fresco.

      Grand Canal/Venice

      Venice’s main waterway features one ornate palazzo after another. Although you can see parts of the canal from the Ponte degli Scalzi or Rialto bridges, the only way to see it all is on board a vaporetto, water bus that regularly shuttles up and down this incredible stretch of Venetian history.

      San Marco/Venice

      It may be a magnate for tourists and pigeons but Venice’s San Marco neighborhood, with Piazza San Marco as its center, took Napoleon’s breath away for a reason. The Basilica San Marco and Palazzo Doge that line the piazza were built to stun and the Gothic architecture that once housed the city’s rulers remains impressive inside and out.

      Dorsoduro/Venice

      The Dorsoduro is a bustling Venice neighborhood where university students and old-time residents rub shoulders in the Campo Santa Margherita. The canals that run through the area are bordered by impressive palazzos like the Ca’Rezzonica.

      Cattedrale di San Giovanni and Holy Shroud/Turin

      Turin’s duomo contains one of the country’s most famous relics, the Holy Shroud, which is believed to be the sheet that covered Christ after his crucifixion. It attracts a regular stream of pilgrims and skeptics.

      Mole Antonelliana/Turin

      The Mole is Turin’s most symbolic sight. Its long, narrow dome can be seen from every angle of the city, as well as on the Italian two-cent coin. Enjoy remarkable vistas of the Alps from the building’s rooftop terrace.

      Porto Antico/Genova

      This complex of museums, libraries, and exhibition spaces features the largest aquarium in Europe and is one of Genova’s most visited areas. Get there early or reserve tickets online.

      MILAN

      Milan isn’t famous for being the most beautiful city in Italy and it might not even make the top 20 list. It’s the financial and fashion capital, which means there’s money and lots of things to spend it on. People work long hours and a surplus of jobs has attracted generations of Southern Italians. Nowadays they’ve been replaced with a new wave of international faces that provide a cosmopolitan feel and more dining options than anywhere else in Italy.

      It’s fast paced by Italian standards and locals keep their heads down until aperitivo when they play as hard as they work. This is as modern as it gets and the tallest skyscraper on the peninsula is Gio Ponti’s Pirelli tower. That’s set to change in 2016 when Hadid and Libeskind are scheduled to transform Milan’s cityscape. For now things are still fairly grey and the attraction remains the interior design inside the super boutiques lining the Quadrilatero and unrivaled works of art collected by the city’s powerful families.

      On the streets high-heels move at a frenetic pace. No one wants to be late for aperitivo or the latest Armani sample sale. This is the land of see and be seen where television starlets play a game of merry-go-round with VIPs on their way to leather clad locales even Paris Hilton can’t always access. No one said a visit here would be easy but if you’ve chosen to stay in Milan for a few days you’re in for a ride.

      The Duomo is the traditional place to start. It’s the geographical core if not the spiritual one. The soul of Milan lies somewhere between the San Siro football stadium and the Quadrilatero where fashion lives and trends are born. In between are Brera, Magenta, and Sempione. Not exactly beautiful neighborhoods but gritty in a pleasant way with the charms of a city looking to the future rather than the past.

      Rush hour in Milan is one of the worst in Italy. It’s wise to stay in bed until 9:30 a.m. and avoid traveling between 5:30-7:30 p.m.to avoid paralysis. Also be aware of pickpockets especially around the stations. That’s their favorite hunting ground along with subways and buses. They tend to be Rom children working for adults who haven’t read Dr. Spock. Keep wallets in front pockets and backpacks tightly zipped.

      SIGHTS

      PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

      If Milan had a downtown this would be it. The area around Piazza del Duomo is congested most of the day with shoppers, office workers, and tourists looking for the Duomo. Two subway lines intersect here and above ground the avenues and streets lead to Milan’s other neighborhoods. Scaffolding is a common sight and luxury brands are revitalizing the Galleria and streets around the impressive church. At night the curtain goes up at La Scala nearby and the barman at the only seven-star hotel in town gets ready for another long shift.

      On a beautiful, sunny day the Duomo (Piazza del Duomo, tel. 028/646-3456, www.duomomilano.it, daily 7 a.m.-7 p.m.) may hypnotize you with its 100 thin, Gaudi-like spires that look as though they are ready for lift off. It’s the kind of church Godzilla would avoid stepping on. Gian Galeazzo Visconti commissioned it in 1386 and it wasn’t completed until the 1800s, which is late by modern Milanese standards. The piazza around is less grand and the church looks slightly cramped. Outside pigeons brush against pilgrims on their way to the gloomy interior and a collection of Christian icons and relics. The confessionals do a swift business while tourists light candles and marvel at the coolness.

      The roof is open to the public and provides a nice view. Take the elevator (€7) unless you consider yourself fit enough for the stairs (€5). On the Saturday closest to September 14th the archbishop performs a special mass and removes a nail, said to be from Christ’s Crucifixion, from its resting place behind the alter.

      Bordering the Duomo on the southern edge of the piazza is the oddly shaped Palazzo Reale (Piazza del Duomo 12, tel. 02/860-165, Tues.-Sun. 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m., free). This was the seat of government and the walls were meant to reflect power. After being partially demolished to make room for the Duomo Francesco Sforza oversaw after the renovations in 1452. It was later used by Spaniards and has been modified significantly over the centuries. Today it houses the Tourist Office and is worth a stop to see the Sala delle Cariatidi on the second floor which was once a theater.

      On the other side of the piazza is Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (tel. 02/7252-4301), a beacon for shoppers since Giuseppe Mengoni won the competition to build it in 1863. This proto-shopping center was completed quickly and has remained a good place to find shoes. Even if footware isn’t your thing the two long promenades covered with a Belle Epoque iron and glass roof make for an elegant stroll. Keep an eye out for mosaics on the floors. The well worn mosiac of a bull near the center is where Milanese stick their heels for good luck. There are plenty of cafes around the Galleria although prices tend to be unfashionably high.

      The oldest museum in Milan, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (Piazza Pio XI 2, tel. 02/806-921, www.ambrosiana.it, Tues.-Sun. 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m., €7.50), houses paintings donated by Cardinal Borromeo in 1618. Masterpieces include Leonardo’s da Vinci’s Portrait of a Musician and Caravaggio’s Fruit Basket. Lines are shorter than outside the Duomo and the 23 rooms are often nearly deserted except for scholars in the library examining Leonardo’s incredible sketches and drawings.

      Some of the greatest lyrics every heard have been sung inside La Scala (Via Filodrammatici 2, tel. 02/7200-3744, www.teatroallascala.org). They sound better here in the temple of sopranos that periodically burns and always rises from the ashes. The latest restoration dates from 2004 and cost over €50 million. New seats were added with subtitle screens but the opera and ballet here doesn’t need translation. Performances sell out quickly and it’s best to reserve before you arrive by phone or over the internet. Prices range from €10 in the upper decks to €170 if you want to feel the breeze from the conductors baton. Tickets can be purchased at the central box office in the Galleria off Piazza Duomo (daily 12-6 p.m., closed Aug.) or at the evening box office at the theater two hours prior to a show. This is La Scala so proper attire is required, which means a tie

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