Dalmatia: Split to Dubrovnik

CONTENTS

TITLE

ABOUT THIS GUIDE

GETTING STARTED

Map of Croatia

Introduction to Southern Dalmatia

Map of Southern Dalmatia

When to Go

Top Sights

SPLIT

Introduction

History

Orientation

Map of Split

Arrival & Departure

Split Port Map

Sights

Jewish Heritage

Walking Tour

Walking Tour Map

Fun

Accommodation

Dining

Transport

Tours

Day Trips from Split

Tourist Information & Maps

Safety

Internet

TROGIR

Trogir Map

Introduction

History

Orientation

Arrival & Departure

Sights

Accommodation

Dining

Tourist Information

MAKARSKA RIVIERA

Introduction

Brela

Baška Voda

Makarska

VIS ISLAND

Vis Island Map

Introduction

Vis Town

Komiža

Vis Beaches

Biševo

BRAČ ISLAND

Brač Island Map

Introduction

History

Getting to Brač

Bol

Supetar

Splitska

Milna

Pučišća

HVAR ISLAND

Hvar Island Map

Introduction

History

Geography

Getting to Hvar

Getting Around Hvar

Hvar Town

Stari Grad

Jelsa

Vrboska

Sućuraj

Pakleni islands

KORČULA ISLAND

Korčula Island Map

Introduction

History

Geography

Getting to Korčula

Getting around Korčula

Korčula Town

Lumbarda

Badija

Vela Luka

PELJAŠAC PENINSULA

Introduction

Orebić

Ston & Mali Ston

Vineyards

DUBROVNIK

Introduction

History

Orientation

Dubrovnik Map

Arrival & Departure

Top Sights

Itineraries

Sights

Old Town Map

Game of Thrones Tour

Beaches

Nightlife

Shopping

Kids

Sports

Accommodation

Dining

Transport

Bus Map

Tours

Day Trips

Tourist Information & Maps

Safety

Internet

DUBROVNIK RIVIERA

Dubrovnik Riviera Map

Introduction

Cavtat

Kupari & Srebreno

Mlini

Plat

ELAPHITI ISLANDS

Introduction

Getting to the Elaphiti Islands

Koločep

Lopud

Šipan

MLJET ISLAND

Introduction

National Park

Pomena

Polače

Sobra

Saplunara

LASTOVO ISLAND

ESSENTIALS

Business Hours

Holidays

Money

Mobile Phones

Phone Calls & Codes

Transport

LANGUAGE

Introduction

Pronunciation

Phrases

Numbers

Days and Months

FURTHER RESOURCES

MAP DOWNLOADS

FEEDBACK

COPYRIGHT

Croatia Traveller's

DALMATIA:

Split to Dubrovnik

2019

Jeanne Oliver

Smashwords Edition

©2019 Jeanne Oliver

All rights reserved.

ABOUT THIS GUIDE

Dalmatia: Split to Dubrovnik is designed to give you all the information you need to make the most of your visit to this spectacular region in a fun, easy-to-use format. I've been travelling to and writing guides about Croatia since 1996 and I'm excited to share all that I've learned. Whether before or during your trip, Dalmatia: Split to Dubrovnik is practical and inspiring with everything from pictures and maps to opening hours, prices, phone numbers and historical tales.

When the trip is nothing more than an idea, take a look at When to Go for advice on your initial plans. How to make the most of your time? Take a look at the Top Sights. Whether it's island-hopping or a wine tour of the Pelješac peninsula, I've given detailed up-to-date advice on how to arrange it. In the accommodation chapters find out where and what kind of accommodation is right for you, followed by descriptions and contact information for the top hotels. Take a look at the Essentials chapter before leaving for details on money, getting around, mobile phones and other practical matters.

When you're actually on the ground this guide is invaluable. Follow a walking tour of Split or a walk that takes in the filming locations in Game of Thrones. Find out the best places to eat, swim, hike, shop or club-hop on the Dalmatian coast and islands. Detailed information on visiting the region's historical and natural highlights enlivens and enriches your appreciation of this fascinating region.

Nothing beats an e-reader for convenience. No more heavy books to lug around! And, as travel books on e-readers have become commonplace, it's become easier to fine-tune the navigation to make the reader experience more intuitive and pleasurable. Unlike guides that have been repurposed from a print format, Dalmatia: Split to Dubrovnik was specially created for your e-reader.

In this guide, I've made heavy use of internal links to enable you to jump around and find information as you would on a website. Internal links are underlined as you would expect. Then, return to where you were by pressing or tapping the back button. All external links are clearly indicated so you know when a data connection is required.

Each of the guide's chapters is divided into subjects. The table of contents lists the chapters and subjects and the subjects are listed at the beginning of each chapter. At the end of each subject a link will take you back to the chapter. So you always know where you are!

One of the beauties of the e-reader format is that you can easily extract information to make your own personalized itinerary. Simply make use of the notes and bookmark functions to highlight the places that most appeal to you.

Maps

I have included maps at the beginning of each relevant chapter and accessible from the table of contents. Yet, for technical reasons, maps have limited functionality in e-readers. Maps are best in either a zoomable pdf format or printed out. For that reason, I have given readers free access to all the maps in this book in full-color pdf ready to be printed out or stored on your device. Click here for more.

GETTING STARTED

Introduction to Southern Dalmatia

Map of Southern Dalmatia

When to Go

Top Sights

Introduction to Southern Dalmatia

Southern Dalmatia may count as Croatia's most delightful region; certainly it would count as the most touristed. It's here that you find Croatia's most spectacular islands such as Brač, Hvar, Korčula, Mljet and Vis. The indented coastline has some spectacular beaches, most notably on the Pelješac peninsula, Brela and Baška Voda. The hinterlands are marked by karstic mountains with fertile fields and bucolic valleys. The Cetina river runs through the centre and is one of Croatia's best rafting destinations.

The northern entryway to the region is Split, site of Diocletian's Palace and with loads of ferries, buses and trains to whisk you throughout the region. The beauty of the region made it most attractive to the Romans who chose Salona as their administrative centre. The Roman ruins there make for an interesting visit.

Further north is Trogir, a walled city that serves as a magnificent showcase for medieval architecture. To the south is the former pirate's lair of Omiš and Makarska underneath Biokovo mountain, a favorite hiking and climbing destination. The region bears strong influences from Venice, which ruled this part of Dalmatia for many centuries, erecting fortresses to protect their holdings from attacks by the Ottoman Turks.

The toe-tip of southern Dalmatia is Croatia's star attraction: Dubrovnik, the pearl of the Adriatic with its ancient curtain of walls separating the medieval city from the sea. It's one of the world's most unmissable sights. Just offshore are the Elaphiti islands, Lokrum island and Mljet National Park. A little further north on the coast is the arboretum of Trsteno. South of Dubrovnik, is the Župa Dubrovačka or Dubrovnik Riviera with the beachside villages of Mlini, Plat and Srebreno. Further south is the tranquil resort of Cavtat and then the Konavle region where local customs are kept alive in traditional villages. Nearly all of the Dubrovnik region was once part of the Ragusan Republic of which Dubrovnik (Ragusa) was the capital.

Back to Getting Started

When to Go

Climate

Summer

Autumn

Winter

Spring

With a full panoply of cities and islands, southern Dalmatia has a full menu of activities and pleasures all year round. There is no wrong season to visit the region; each season has its pleasures. A walk on Dubrovnik's famous walls can be memorably moody in winter, glorious in spring and autumn and sun-baked in the summer. The rich architectural heritage of Split's Diocletian's Palace is always on display and most city museums are open all year.

CLIMATE

With a Mediterranean climate, the region has hot dry summers and rainy winters. Snow is extremely rare. As the charts below indicate, if it's beach weather you're after June to September are the most reliably warm and sunny months. In May and October there are usually enough pleasant days to integrate an afternoon at the beach into your schedule. As for the rest of the year, a beach day would be a rare and special experience. The difference between Split and Dubrovnik weather is that Split is more subject to extremely hot days in the summer and Dubrovnik receives more rainfall in winter. Hvar island has its own micro-climate. It's Croatia's sunniest island and is always one or two degrees (celsius) warmer than the coast. Hvar town harbor is a regular suntrap. It's a wonderful place to warm up on a wintry day but can make for sweaty sightseeing at the height of summer.

SUMMER

June through September are the region's busiest months.  You'll enter into the whirlwind of the tourist season. The season reaches its peak the last three weeks of July and the first three weeks of August. Hotel prices are at their highest point then and vacancies are at the lowest level no matter where you go. If you can manage to go in June or September however, you'll find the Dalmatian coast sunny, warm and busy enough but not yet in mad-summer mode.

Summer can be exciting because there's a lot going on. Nightlife along the coast is at its most frenzied whether you're a clubber or a concert-goer. If your dream is to party with the kids in Hvar town, you'll want to be there during the summer yacht season. Music festivals animate the streets of Dubrovnik, Split and nearly every other coastal or island town in July and August. The ambience is always upbeat but if quality counts stick to the big cities.

The crush of tourists can make a summertime visit to one of southern Dalmatia's more popular places less than pleasant for those seeking a quieter experience. The narrow streets of smaller towns such as Dubrovnik or Hvar can be elbow-to-elbow with visitors licking ice cream cones and snapping pictures. Taking a car onto a ferry means reserving in advance and then waiting in line for several hours. For a more authentic and relaxing experience consider staying in one of the lesser-known destinations. Consider Vis island, Lastovo island, Orebić or Ston on the Pelješac peninsula.

Both Dubrovnik and Split are popular ports of call on cruise ship itineraries. As a large city, Split is better able to digest the influx of visitors but in Dubrovnik you'll have a better experience if you sightsee when the cruise passengers don't. Here's how.

Festivals

Dubrovnik

The Dubrovnik Summer Festival is what keeps the Old Town young every summer. During July and August, concerts of all sorts take place nearly every night in venues around town while every place with a stage hosts a play or two. The most prestigious is the traditional production of Hamlet staged at Fort Lovrijenac. See the Dubrovnik Summer Festival website (www.dubrovnik-festival.hr) for schedules and tickets.

Split

The last week of June sees the Days of Radunića which refers to traditional St Peter celebrations. This street fair takes place in the Radunića neighborhood (north of Bacvice). More information at the Split Tourist Office (www.visitsplit.com).

Concerts, plays, ballets and operas are performed on open-air stages throughout the summer in the venerable Split Summer Festival that accents theatre. The Peristyle and the Basement Halls of Diocletian's Palace are favorite venues. More information at the Split Tourist Office (www.visitsplit.com).

In late August or early September, check out the Days of Diocletian. This fun festival celebrates the old Roman who gave Split its calling card, Diocletian's Palace. The town rounds up the most celebrated citizen it can find (usually an actor or sports star) to play the Emperor in a series of tableaux. Music, fashion shows, Roman dining, music, gladiators and a procession of toga-clad citizens would make Diocletian proud. More information at the Split Tourist Office (www.visitsplit.com).

Korčula island

From May to September is a good time to experience the Moreška Sword Dance in Korčula town. This fighting dance is an exciting way to experience the Adriatic's traditional folklore. See more.

AUTUMN

It's one of my favorite times to visit the Croatian coast as the weather is still mild and the streets are less crowded. The tourist crush has lightened somewhat (although September can still be busy), the weather is mild rather than scorchingly hot and the sea is still warm enough for swimming--at least through mid-October. Hotels are open, excursions are running and local ferries are on the summer schedule (i.e. more frequent) until the end of September. Some passenger ferries to the islands stop running at the beginning of September however, and most cease services by mid-October. The Jadrolinija ferries start their less frequent winter routes at the beginning of October. See more at ferry resources.

Traveling to Croatia in autumn is also easy on the budget as hotel prices start their six-month decline in September. Car ferries are also a little cheaper. You'll have more flexibility in arranging accommodation and car rental as you'll have less competition for rooms and vehicles.

By mid-November shortened daylight hours can limit sightseeing somewhat and many hotels start their winter hibernation. The cooler temperatures mean that beaches, swimming and sunbathing will probably not be your first priorities.

It's a great time to enjoy the burgeoning culture season as the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra starts their concert series and art galleries unveil their latest exhibitions.

Festivals

Split

Avant-garde filmmakers, experimentalists and visual radicals have a chance to exhibit their creations in venues around Split at the Split Film Festival in September. The best works garner prizes and money. The festival is open to visitors. Website: www.splitfilmfestival.hr

Korčula island

Korčula island is still predominantly agricultural and is well-known for its wine and olive oil. Autumn is a good time to see the harvest in action. Grape harvest usually begins on September 1st and lasts until October 15th depending on the sort of grape and location. The olive harvest begins at the end of October and lasts through November. The tourist office will have details. Website: www.visitkorcula.eu.

WINTER

Along the Adriatic coast, the mild but rainy weather keeps the beaches empty and resorts closed. By now the tourists have well and truly left and it's time for the locals to reclaim their territory. Accommodation prices are at their lowest level of the year but many hotels and most private accommodation are closed from November to March. Except for remote island villages, there will always be at least one hotel open.

A number of restaurants will often take their annual holiday in January. Day trips to the islands are also tougher to arrange as catamaran services to the islands have ended for the season. Choices may be more limited but the reward is a more authentic tourist-free experience.

While life on the islands can be quiet indeed, winter is a great time of year to visit Split and Dubrovnik. In Split, the whirl of museums, restaurants, cafes and nightlife insures that there's always something to do if the weather turns foul. Christmas in Dubrovnik is truly magical as the streets of Stradun are ablaze with lights and local craftspeople display their wares in the Christmas Fair. It's a time to sample the goodies offered by local chefs to the tune of traditional Christmas songs.

The celebration reaches an apex on New Year's Eve. Dubrovnik is one of the world's best places to ring in the New Year. All of Dubrovnik fills Stradun and the side streets to turn the walled town into one big outdoor party. Croatian pop stars, celebrities, musicians and entertainers are enlisted to keep the musical beat while stalls selling fritters, dried figs, carob almonds and champagne keep the revelers fed and watered. Not to be missed.

Then, all is calm until the Feast of Saint Blaise in February. St Blaise is Dubrovnik's patron saint peering down on the city from more than a dozen statues. On February 3, all Dubrovnik turns out to celebrate the name day of the saint. Villagers from the region flock to Dubrovnik and display their local culture in colorful costumes and folk dances. Look for special concerts held around Dubrovnik in the week preceding the Feast and plan to be there on February 2 when many festivities occur.

Carnival is celebrated enthusiastically in Split and Dubrovnik. In Dubrovnik, the festivities culminate during the three days preceding Ash Wednesday when masked and costumed groups prowl the old streets singing and dancing. Masked balls are often organized in private homes but there's always a lot of action on Stradun, Dubrovnik's main street. In Split, the bars and dance clubs hold special parties for masked revelers and a full agenda of costumed parades, concerts and fireworks keep everyone entertained.

SPRING

Easter is the opening of Croatia's spring season. On the long Easter weekend, lots of Croatians from the interior head to the coast and islands for a little foretaste of summer even though it's usually too cold to swim. Dubrovnik and Hvar island are favorites among Croatians, Italians and Slovenes for long weekends in March, April and May.

As the days grow warmer and longer in late spring, the coast and islands blossom under the warming sun. By mid-May it's warm and sunny enough for sunbathing. You won't be alone but you also won't have reached the point where tourists outnumber natives on the islands! Plus, hotels haven't yet jacked up their prices for the peak summer season.

The main disadvantage of traveling within Croatia in the spring is that the ferry companies don't start summer services until April or May. Until then, there are fewer ferries running from the mainland to the islands and among the islands. So, you won't have as much flexibility in planning your schedule.

Easter is a solemn event in Catholic Croatia. It's taken seriously everywhere but most colorfully in Korčula. There, the celebration begins on Palm Sunday followed by a week of ceremonies and processions organized by the local religious brotherhoods. There's an event each day that may include songs, hymns, the reenactment of Biblical events and blessing of the city gates. In Dubrovnik, the religious holiday followed by the Dubrovnik Easter Fair, a display of local crafts and traditions that lasts for several weeks. Watch for special hotel deals at this time as hoteliers aim for a strong kickoff to the tourist season.

Festivals

Split

Held around April 22, the Croatian Theatre Festival celebrates Split's most renowned playwright, Marko Marulić who completed Judita, the first truly Croatian literary work on April 22, 1501. The festival brings together theatre troupes from around the country to compete for top prizes in various categories. Surrounding the theatrical productions are a number of conferences discussing the state of current Croatian theatre. Find more information at the Croatian Theatre website (www.hnk-split.hr)

Back to Getting Started

Top Sights

DUBROVNIK'S WALLS

The curtain of stone that encloses Dubrovnik is one of Europe's greatest sights and one you won't easily forget. More.

DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE

This 2nd-century Roman palace turned city-within-a-city is an atmospheric place to explore the grand style of a Roman emperor. Don't miss Diocletian's mausoleum. More.

HVAR TOWN

With a welcoming harbor, Venetian architecture and the hottest nightlife on the coast, it's no wonder Hvar town attracts partiers of all stripes. More.

BOL BEACH

This unusual curving beach is the highlight of Brač island and one of the best beaches in Croatia. More.

BLUE GROTTO OF BIŠEVO

This tiny island off the coast of Vis is famous for its Blue Grotto, a sparkling sapphire paradise that comes to life each day when the sun illuminates an opening in the cafe. More.

By japus (Own work) GFDL CC-BY-SA-3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

TROGIR

This jewel of a medieval town was named a World Heritage site for its happy profusion of 15th and 16th century architecture that represents the best of Dalmatian style. More.

MLJET ISLAND

If you have time for only one day trip from Dubrovnik, make it Mljet. Find out why even Odysseus couldn't tear himself away. More.

KORČULA ISLAND

Whether it's the Moreška Sword Dance in the summer, Easter processions or the autumn olive harvest, there's always something going on here that offers a unique window onto island culture. More.

Back to Getting Started

SPLIT

Introduction

History

Orientation

Map of Split

Arrival & Departure

Split Port Map

Sights

Walking Tour

Walking Tour Map

Fun

Accommodation

Dining

Transport

Bus Map

Tours

Day Trips

Tourist Information & Maps

Safety

Internet

Introduction

Split is busy and big but it remains one of the Adriatic's most fascinating ports with a long and eventful history. Home of Diocletian's Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Split offers a wealth of museums and Roman ruins under a dramatic mountain backdrop that opens onto a vast expanse of sea. As Croatia's second largest city Split is the pumping heart of the Dalmatian coast. Islanders flock into the city to work even as ferries whisk tourists out