Furness and Cartmel - Footpath Guide
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Furness and Cartmel - Footpath Guide - H. C. Knapp-Fisher
MOOR
INTRODUCTION
You can always catch your friends by asking them which English county has the shortest coast-line. One friend of mine hazarded: ‘Lundy Island.’ The answer, of course, is Westmoreland, which cuts down to the coast from Silverdale to Arnside, bordering the Leven estuary. This thrust of Westmoreland divides Lancashire in two. It snips off the Cartmel peninsula and the Furness peninsula.
We cover all this area, except the Duddon Valley, the Coniston-Hawkshead region, and the Torver and Woodland valleys, which are dealt with in this series in Lakeless Lakeland, by Cuthbert Wilkinson.
The Cartmel area is separated from Westmoreland by the little river Winster which rushes down from the heights above Bownesson-Windermere and runs into the Leven estuary between Grange and the Kent viaduct. On the west, from a point just south of Storr’s Hall, the waters of Windermere Lake and the Leven separate it from Furness.
Cartmel stretches from the rugged fells which lie north of Gummer’s How to the limestone headland known as Humphrey Head that strikes out into Morecambe Bay opposite to and due south of Morecambe.
West of the Cartmel area lies Furness, the high fells of which are split by three river valleys: that of the Duddon on the far west (with which we are not concerned in this book); that of the Crake, which drains Coniston water; and the Rusland valley, fed by the two arms of Grizedale Beck and Dale Park Beck. Coniston Water is completely within Furness, and so is the much smaller Esthwaite Water, while the whole extent of Windermere Lake, which runs out through the Leven, provides the eastern border of the district.
Furness proper extends for thirty miles, south-west from the head of Windermere to Walney Island, which stretches its narrow ten miles of length from the Duddon estuary to Morecambe Bay.
The mountainous north of Furness is generally referred to as High Furness, and geologically it is composed of volcanic ash and the older slates, which gradually merge into the later Silurian and clay slates. The southern area, or Low Furness, is composed largely of carboniferous limestone, followed by red sandstone and the marls of the Trias, with accumulations of glacial drift.
Broughton-in-Furness, May, 1947.
I. GUMMER’S HOW AND CARTMEL FELL
FROM Newby Bridge a great number of delightful short walks and climbs can be had, such as the ascent to Finsthwaite Tower (605 feet), for which, cross the Lakeside railway-bridge and turn left up the steep pathway through the woods; or to Staveley church, along the road to Bowness, taking the first turn to the right.
In this book we are concerned with rather longer and less-trodden paths than these. We shall treat of walks which may occupy the walker for half a day or a whole day. In every case I have indicated how these walks may be cut up into shorter walks. It is always a good thing, when starting to walk in a counside that is fresh to you, to begin with a path that will show you the layout of the land. First, then, here is what is, in my view, the best fairly long walk to be taken to the east of Newby Bridge.
From Newby Bridge—or Lakeside is as convenient a starting-point—take the Bowness road for something like a mile, passing the two roads to Staveley on the right, taking the third road to the right, which rises steeply up from Fell Foot for nearly a mile. The fact that this part of the walk has to be taken on a macadamised surface is compensated for by the rapidly expanding views up the lake on the left. Near the crest of the hill two paths lead to the summit of Gummer’s How: they join shortly after leaving the road, forming a triangle. Take the first of these, climbing a log ladder over the dry-stone wall on the left of the road. In little more than half a mile the path winds over grass up to the summit.
Gummer’s How is 1,054 feet above sea-level and is the highest point in the chapelry of Cartmel. Windermere Lake lies immediately at its foot and the whole extent of the lake can be seen from its summit. Above the head of the lake rises the mass of Fairfield and Helvellyn, and there is a unique view of the Langdale Pikes over Esthwaite Water and the Furness Fells. Immediately below, across the water, is Lakeside Landing with its steamboats, while the winding Leven, half-river and half-lake, leads away to its valley on the southwest; and due south, over the fells, are the gleaming levels of Morecambe Bay and the Lancaster coast. Turning to the east, one looks down across the long waves of Whit-barrow and Underbarrow to the hills beyond Kendal, with the bright green valley of the Winster glowing over the moorlands directly in front.
You return along the footpath to the fork of the triangle, taking now the upper or left-hand path, which brings you back upon the road higher up than where you left it. Turn left for a short distance—certainly less than quarter of a mile—until a single sign-post ‘To the Church,’ points along a straight open lane