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    The Rough Guide to Egypt
    The Rough Guide to Egypt
    The Rough Guide to Egypt
    Ebook1,435 pages18 hours

    The Rough Guide to Egypt

    By Rough Guides

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    About this ebook

    The new full-colour Rough Guide to Egypt is the definitive guide to this amazing country, whose ancient civilization still fascinates today. But there's more to Egypt than just pyramids and temples. The Red Sea offers some of the world's finest diving, a few hours by air from Europe. There are awesome dunes and lush oases to explore in its deserts, and fantastic bazaars and mosques in the capital, Cairo.

    Detailed accounts of every attraction, along with crystal-clear maps and plans, make it easy to access anything from remote oases to nightlife that only locals know. You'll find lavish photography and colour maps throughout, along with insider tips on how to get the best out of Luxor's temples or Sinai's beach resorts. At every point, the Rough Guide steers you to the best hotels, cafés, restaurants and shops across every price range, giving you balanced reviews and honest, first-hand opinions.

    Make the most of your time with The Rough Guide to Egypt.

    Now available in ePub format.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateFeb 1, 2013
    ISBN9781409324249
    The Rough Guide to Egypt
    Author

    Rough Guides

    Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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      Book preview

      The Rough Guide to Egypt - Rough Guides

      CONTENTS

      HOW TO USE

      INTRODUCTION

      Where to go

      Author picks

      When to go

      Things not to miss

      Itineraries

      BASICS

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      The media

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Culture and etiquette

      Shopping

      Travelling with children

      Travel essentials

      THE GUIDE

      1 Cairo and the Pyramids

      2 The Nile Valley

      3 The Western Desert Oases

      4 Alexandria, the Mediterranean coast and the Delta

      5 The Canal Zone

      6 Sinai

      7 The Red Sea Coast

      CONTEXTS

      History

      Islam

      Ancient Egyptian Temples

      Music

      Books

      Glossary

      MAPS AND SMALL PRINT

      HOW TO USE THIS ROUGH GUIDE eBOOK

      This Rough Guide to Egypt is one of a new generation of informative and easy-to-use travel-guide eBooks that guarantees you make the most of your trip. An essential tool for pre-trip planning, it also makes a great travel companion when you’re on the road.

      From the table of contents, you can click straight to the main sections of the eBook. Start with the Introduction, which gives you a flavour of Egypt, with details of what to see, what not to miss, itineraries and more – everything you need to get started. This is followed by Basics, with pre-departure tips and practical information, such as flight details and health advice. The guide chapters offer comprehensive and in-depth coverage of the whole of Egypt, including area highlights and full-colour maps featuring all the sights and listings. Finally, Contexts fills you in on history, Islam, Egyptian music and books.

      Detailed area maps can be found both at the relevant point in the guide and in the dedicated map section, accessible from the table of contents for easy reference. Depending on your hardware, you will be able to double-tap on the maps to see larger-scale versions fill your screen. Use of the screen-lock function on your device is recommended for viewing enlarged maps.

      . You can select your own favourites and create a personalized itinerary by bookmarking the sights, venues and activities that are of interest, giving you the quickest possible access to everything you’ll need for your time away.

      INTRODUCTION TO EGYPT

      Egypt is the oldest tourist destination on earth. Ancient Greeks and Romans started the trend, coming to goggle at the cyclopean scale of the Pyramids and the Colossi of Thebes. During colonial times, Napoleon and the British looted Egypt’s treasures to fill their national museums, sparking off a trickle of Grand Tourists that eventually became a flood of travellers, taken on Nile cruises and Egyptological lectures by the enterprising Thomas Cook. Today, the attractions of the country are not only the monuments of the Nile Valley and the souks, mosques and madrassas of Islamic Cairo, but also fantastic coral reefs and tropical fish, dunes, ancient fortresses, monasteries and prehistoric rock art.

      The land itself is a freak of nature, its lifeblood the River Nile. From the Sudanese border to the shores of the Mediterranean, the Nile Valley and its Delta are flanked by arid wastes, the latter as empty as the former are teeming with people. This stark duality between fertility and desolation is fundamental to Egypt’s character and has shaped its development since prehistoric times, imparting continuity to diverse cultures and peoples over seven millennia. It is a sense of permanence and timelessness that is buttressed by religion, which pervades every aspect of life. Although the pagan cults of ancient Egypt are as moribund as its legacy of mummies and temples, their ancient fertility rites and processions of boats still hold their place in the celebrations of Islam and Christianity.

        The result is a multi-layered culture, which seems to accord equal respect to ancient and modern. The peasants of the Nile and the Bedouin tribes of the desert live much as their ancestors did a thousand years ago. Other communities include the Nubians of the far south, and the Coptic Christians, who trace their ancestry back to pharaonic times. What unites them is a love of their homeland, extended family ties, dignity, warmth and hospitality towards strangers. Though most visitors are drawn to Egypt by its monuments, the enduring memory is likely to be of its people and their way of life.

      FACT FILE

      The Arab Republic of Egypt covers 1,001,450 square kilometres, but 96.4 percent of that is desert. Only the Nile Valley, its Delta and some oases are fertile.

      Egypt’s population of 83.7 million is over twice that of the next most populous Arab country (Algeria) and a quarter of the population of the Arab world. 71 percent of Egyptians are literate. Average life expectancy is 73 years.

      Islam is the biggest religion, and some ninety percent of Egyptians are Muslim; most of the rest are Coptic Christians, with a small number of other Christians, and a tiny but ancient Jewish community.

      All Egyptians speak Arabic, but there are other Egyptian languages too: Nubian, related to the Nilotic languages of East Africa, is spoken around Aswan and Lake Nasser; Siwi, a Berber language like those of Morocco and Algeria, is spoken in Siwa Oasis; and Coptic, which is derived from ancient Egyptian, is used in church services, but not otherwise.

      Since the monarchy was ousted in 1952, Egypt has been a republic, ruled by a succession of military strongmen up until the 2011 revolution that overthrew Hosni Mubarak. Elections in 2012 resulted in an Islamist government under President Mohammed Morsi. The Muslim Brotherhood’s Freedom and Justice Party is the largest in parliament, followed by the Salafist Al-Nour party, the liberal Wafd party and Egyptian Bloc.

      Tourism has long been Egypt’s biggest money-earner, followed by tolls on the Suez Canal, and exports of oil, petroleum products, natural gas, cotton and textiles. Over forty percent of the population lives below the poverty line, and the economy would collapse without $2 billion a year in financial and food-aid from the US.

      Where to go

      Egypt’s capital, Cairo, is a seething megalopolis whose chief sightseeing appeal lies in its bazaars and medieval mosques, though there is scarcely less fascination in its juxtapositions of medieval and modern life, the city’s fortified gates, villas and skyscrapers interwoven by flyovers whose traffic may be halted by donkey carts. The immensity and diversity of this Mother of Cities is as staggering as anything you’ll encounter in Egypt. Just outside Cairo are the first of the pyramids that range across the desert to the edge of the Fayoum, among them the unsurpassable trio at Giza, the vast necropolis of Saqqara and the pyramids at Dahshur. Besides all this, there are superb museums devoted to Ancient, Coptic and Islamic Egypt, and enough entertainment to occupy weeks of your time.

        However, the principal tourist lure remains, as ever, the Nile Valley, with its ancient monuments and timeless river vistas – Nile cruises on a luxury vessel or a felucca sailboat being a great way to combine the two. The town of Luxor is synonymous with the magnificent temples of Karnak and the Theban Necropolis, which includes the Valley of the Kings where Tutankhamun and other pharaohs were buried. Aswan, Egypt’s southernmost city, has the loveliest setting on the Nile and a languorous ambience. From here, you can visit the island Philae temple of Isis and the rock-hewn colossi at Abu Simbel, or embark on a cruise to other temples around Lake Nasser. Other sites not to be missed are Edfu and Kom Ombo, between Luxor and Aswan, and Abydos and Dendara, north of Luxor.

        Besides monuments, Egypt abounds in natural wonders. Edged by coral reefs teeming with tropical fish, the Sinai Peninsula offers superb diving and snorkelling, and palm-fringed beaches where women can swim unmolested. Resorts along the Gulf of Aqaba are varied enough to suit everyone, whether you’re into the upmarket hotels of Sharm el-Sheikh, nearby Na’ama Bay or Taba further north, or cheap, simple living at Dahab and Nuweiba. From there it’s easy to visit St Catherine’s Monastery and Mount Sinai (where Moses received the Ten Commandments) in the mountainous interior. With more time, cash and stamina, you can also embark on jeep safaris or camel treks to remote oases and spectacular wadis.

        Egypt’s Red Sea Coast has more reefs further offshore, with snorkelling and diving traditionally centred around Hurghada, while barely touched island reefs from Port Safaga down to Marsa Alam beckon serious diving enthusiasts. Inland, the mountainous Eastern Desert harbours the Coptic monasteries of St Paul and St Anthony, Roman quarries, and a host of pharaonic and prehistoric rock art, seen by few apart from the nomadic Bedouin.

        While the Eastern Desert is still barely touched by tourism, the Western Desert Oases have been on the tourist trail for forty years and nowadays host safaris into the wilderness. Siwa, out towards the Libyan border, has a unique culture and history, limpid pools and bags of charm. Travellers can also follow the Great Desert Circuit (starting from Cairo, Luxor or Assyut) through the four inner oases – though Bahariya and Farafra hold the most appeal, with the lovely White Desert between them, the larger oases of Dakhla and Kharga also have their rewards once you escape their modernized capitals. And for those into serious desert expeditions, there’s the challenge of exploring the Great Sand Sea or the remote wadis of the Gilf Kebir, whose prehistoric rock art featured in the film The English Patient. In contrast to these deep-desert locations are the quasi-oases of the Fayoum and Wadi Natrun, featuring the fossil-strewn Valley of the Whales, diverse ancient ruins and Coptic monasteries.

        On the Mediterranean, Egypt’s second city, Alexandria, boasts a string of beaches to which Cairenes flock in summer, and excellent seafood restaurants. Despite being founded by Alexander the Great and lost to the Romans by Cleopatra, the city today betrays little of its ancient glory; however, its magnificent new library, featuring statues raised from the sunken remains of Cleopatra’s Palace, and the Lighthouse of Pharos (which divers can explore) are restoring an air of majesty. Famous, too, for its decadence during colonial times, Alexandria still allows romantics to indulge in a nostalgic exploration of the city immortalized in Durrell’s Alexandria Quartet, while further along the Mediterranean coast is the World War II battlefield of El-Alamein. For divers, the waters off Alexandria offer an array of sunken cities and wartime wrecks to explore.

        The Nile Delta, east of Alexandria, musters few archeological monuments given its major role in ancient Egyptian history, and is largely overlooked by tourists. However, for those interested in Egyptian culture, the Delta hosts colourful religious festivals at Tanta, Zagazig and other towns. Further east lies the Canal Zone, dominated by the Suez Canal and its three cities: Suez is grim, but a vital transport nexus between Cairo, Sinai and the Red Sea Coast; Port Said and Ismailiya are pleasant, albeit sleepy places, where you can get a feel of real Egypt without tripping over other tourists.

      FELUCCAS AT DUSK

      DIVING

      Egypt is one of the best diving destinations in the world. The Red Sea and the Gulf of Aqaba are rich in sea life and home to a wonderful array of dive sites, with plenty of options for both novices and experts alike: remarkably preserved World War II wrecks, coral reefs filled with dolphins, rainbow-coloured anemone gardens, and shallow bays visited by turtles are just a few of the sites you can explore. The Sinai and Red Sea Coast chapters have detailed information on dive sites and recommended dive companies, as well as tips on safety and environmental issues.

      REEFS

      The Red Sea’s stable climate, shallow tides and exceptionally high salinity provide perfect conditions for unusually brilliant corals and sponges – a revelation if you have previously dived in such places as Hawaii or the Caribbean, whose reefs will forever after seem dull by comparison. Created by generations of miniscule polyps depositing their limestone exoskeletons on the remains of their ancestors, coral reefs can grow by 4–5cm a year. Beside hard corals such as brain and fire coral, which have a rigid outer skeleton, the Red Sea hosts an abundance of soft corals, including whip coral and sea fans. Because most types of coral need a moderate amount of warm sunlight to flourish, the most spectacular formations are found within 30m of the surface.

        Most Red Sea reefs are of the fringing type, with a shallow lagoon just offshore, whose warm water and rubble-strewn bottom attracts starfish and sea slugs. Clams and sea urchins hide in crevices, and schools of damselfish and butterflyfish flit about. Its seaward boundary is the reef flat, whose crest is usually a barren, rough-surfaced shelf, while deeper areas are rich in flora and fauna. Beyond is a coral-encrusted slope, leading to a drop-off like the edge of a cliff. Flatter areas may be dotted with coral pillars or knolls. Lower down, the coral is sparser, and you may find sandy terraces overgrown with seagrass, sustaining sea horses and pipefish. Beyond the drop-off lies open water.

      SEA LIFE

      Some of the Red Sea’s most colourful and endearing species are easy to spot in the shallows, where the sunlight is brightest. Among the commonest are beak-mouthed parrotfish and exotic-looking pennantfish, whose long dorsal fins end in filaments.

        Wherever stinging anemones cling to the reef, you’ll see clownfish (or anemone fish). Angelfish are usually found close to the coral, while clouds of gold and vermillion anthias gather around coral heads and fans. Slopes and fore reefs are the habitat of snappers, goatfish and wrasses (the largest of these, the Napoleon Wrasse, can dwarf a person).

        In deeper waters you may see sharks, including whitetip reef sharks, grey reef sharks and (occasionally) scalloped hammerheads. Spotted reef stingrays are often seen on the sandy bottom of the sea. Turtles are among the most thrilling species to encounter underwater; the Red Sea has several species, including green turtles and hawksbill turtles. Dolphin encounters are possible too, and those lucky enough to come across a pod of bottlenose or spinner dolphins on a dive are likely to count it among the highlights of their trip.

      FROM TOP FRESH VEGETABLES FOR SALE; GREEN TURTLE, MARSA ALAM

      When to go

      Egypt’s traditional tourist season runs from late November to late February, though in recent years Luxor and Aswan have only really been busy with tourists during the peak months of December and January. The Nile Valley is balmy throughout this winter season, although Cairo can be overcast and chilly. Winter is also the busiest period for the Sinai resorts, while Hurghada is active year round. Aside from the Easter vacation, when there is a spike in tourism, March or April are also good times to visit, with a pleasant climate.

        In May the heat is still tolerable but, after that, Egyptians rich enough to do so migrate to Alex and the coastal resorts. From June to September the south and desert are ferociously hot and the pollution in Cairo is at its worst, with only the coast offering a respite from the heat. During this time, sightseeing is best limited to early morning or evening. October into early November is perhaps the best time of all, with easily manageable climate and crowds. For more details, see climate.

        Weather and tourism apart, the Islamic calendar and its related festivals can have an effect on your travel. The most important factor is Ramadan, the month of daytime fasting, which can be problematic for eating and transport, though the festive evenings do much to compensate.

      HUSSEIN OR HOUSSEIN?

      There’s no standard system of transliterating Arabic script into Roman, so you’re sure to find that the Arabic words in this guide don’t always match the versions you’ll see elsewhere. Maps and street signs are the biggest sources of confusion, so we’ve generally gone for the transliteration that’s the most common on the spot. However, you’ll often need to do a bit of lateral thinking, and it’s not unusual to find one spelling posted at one end of a road, with another at the opposite end.

      FROM TOP LITTLE EGRETS ON THE BANKS OF THE NILE; TEMPLE OF QUEEN NEFERTARI, ABU SIMBEL

      < Back to Introduction

      DUNES AT SUNRISE, BAHARIYA

      AUTHOR PICKS

      Our authors have spent hours on jeeps crossing vast tracts of desert, floated down the Nile in motley feluccas, and spent nights carousing in dens that most outsiders wouldn’t imagine existed. Here are their favourite things to see and do in Egypt.

      Be alone in a pyramid field The pyramid site at Dahshur is a world away from the tourist circus at Giza, its pyramids arguably even more impressive.

      See the real Egypt Most Egyptians don’t live in places like Luxor or Dahab, but in the teeming towns of the Delta. Aside from Rosetta there aren’t many sights here, but scooting around it by service taxi, you get a feel for the Egypt that beach resorts and pharaonic temples won’t give you.

      Enjoy the Nile The river is best appreciated from a felucca or a dahabiya, from which you can trail your hand in the cool water, watch birds fishing and farmers bathing in the river.

      Try something new Learn camel-handling at the Tala Ranch in Siwa Oasis or have a go at deciphering the texts in tombs in the Valley of the Kings with a copy of How to Read Egyptian Hieroglyphs: A Step-By-Step Guide.

      Indulge your senses Try aroma-massage or a sand-sauna in Aswan, wallow in a hot pool amid the Great Sand Sea or relish the tastes and smells of civilization after a safari to the remote Gilf Kebir.

      See Egypt from the air The dramatic contrast between the lush Nile Valley and the surrounding desert wastes is best appreciated on an EgyptAir flight from Cairo, Luxor or Aswan to Abu Simbel, or a hot-air balloon ride over the Theban Necropolis.

        symbol.

      < Back to Introduction

      28 THINGS NOT TO MISS

      It’s not possible to see everything that Egypt has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights: outstanding temples and tombs, spectacular landscapes and opportunities for Nile cruises. All highlights have a reference to take you into the Guide, where you can find out more.

      1 Mount Sinai This awesome peak is revered as the site where Moses received the Ten Commandments from God.

      2 Islamic Cairo City of a thousand minarets, teeming with life and chock-full of architectural masterpieces and historic monuments. Head for Khan el-Khalili bazaar, or the Citadel.

      3 Diving and Snorkelling Amazing coral reefs, tropical fish and wrecks make the Red Sea a paradise for scuba divers and snorkellers, while Egypt’s Mediterranean coast has ancient underwater ruins and warships to explore.

      4 Valley of the Kings The descent into the Underworld, the Judgement of Osiris and the rebirth of the pharaoh are vividly depicted on the walls and ceilings of the royal tombs.

      5 Catacombs of Kom es-Shoqafa Beneath the Karmous quarter of Alexandria are the spookiest tombs in Egypt, with a bizarre fusion of pharaonic, Greek and Roman funerary motifs reflecting the city’s ancient diversity.

      6 Mezze Dining in a restaurant, try mezze, consisting of many delicious, small dishes (particularly good for vegetarians).

      7 Feluccas These lateen-sailed boats can be hired for an afternoon lazing on the Nile, or a two- or three-day journey from Aswan, visiting the temples at Kom Ombo and Edfu.

      8 Alexandria With its fabulous seafood and vintage coffee houses, its dazzling new library and the chance to dive the ruins of Cleopatra’s Palace, there’s plenty to discover in this Mediterranean port city.

      9 White Desert A tract of weird wind-eroded rock formations in Farafra Oasis, often visited on overnight safaris from the neighbouring oasis of Bahariya.

      10 The pyramids of Dahshur Less famous than the Giza trio but no less fascinating – and far less crowded. The Bent Pyramid, resting place of Snofru, has a distinctive angled top.

      11 Balloon Rides Enjoy a magnificent view of the Theban Necropolis on Luxor’s west bank.

      12 Aswan Aswan has been Egypt’s gateway to Nubia since ancient times, and its islands, bazaars and riverside restaurants can keep you happy in between excursions to sites such as Abu Simbel.

      13 Karkaday This infusion of hibiscus flowers makes a delicious hot or cold drink and tonic.

      14 Abu Simbel The monumental sun temple of Ramses II is the most spectacular of the Nubian antiquities that were relocated to higher ground on the shores of Lake Nasser.

      15 Jewellery There’s an endless choice of pharaonic, classical, Islamic and contemporary designs in the bazaars of Cairo, Luxor and Aswan, and oases such as Siwa.

      16 The Egyptian Museum Home to Tutankhamun’s treasures, monumental statues from the Old Kingdom and the Amarna era, a dozen royal mummies and countless other artefacts, some engagingly humble.

      17 Dahab Sinai chill-out zone, renowned for its diving, beach cafés, and camel and jeep safaris into the rugged interior.

      18 Karnak Temple Dedicated to the ancient Theban Triad of Amun, Mut and Khonsu, this vast complex reached its zenith during the New Kingdom.

      19 Bellydancing The centuries-old tradition of raqs sharqi (oriental dance) is best seen at clubs frequented by locals, where the dancers and musicians will set your pulse racing.

      20 The Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza The world’s most famous monuments have inspired scholarly and crackpot speculations for centuries.

      21 Abydos One of the most ancient cult-centres in Egypt, Abydos’ mortuary temple of Seti I contains magnificent bas-reliefs, the finest to have survived from the New Kingdom.

      22 St Catherine’s Monastery Secluded beneath Mount Sinai, St Catherine’s harbours the burning bush that appeared to Moses in the Bible, among other holy relics.

      23 Dahabiya cruises These swanky nineteenth-century-style houseboats are perfect for cruising the Nile with a small group of friends.

      24 Jeep or Camel Safaris Make tracks into the dunes of the Western Desert or the canyons of Sinai – overnight trips or major expeditions are easily arranged.

      25 Fresh Juice Most towns have a sprinkling of juice bars or carts, where you can quench your thirst with whatever’s in season, from freshly pressed oranges and mangoes to strawberries and sugar cane.

      26 Street Food Sold from pushcarts or in sit-down diners, taamiya, kushari, fuul and shawarma are tasty, cheap and nourishing.

      27 Ras Mohammed Egypt’s oldest marine nature park boasts spectacular shark reefs and the wreck of the Dunraven.

      28 Siwa Oasis With its unique culture, hilltop citadel and spring-fed pools, Siwa is rated by many as the best of Egypt’s oases.

      < Back to Introduction

      ROCK FORMATIONS, THE WHITE DESERT

      ITINERARIES

      The following itineraries range right across Egypt, taking in both classic attractions and little-visited sights, from temples to turtles. Don’t worry if you can’t complete the list – even a handful of places will give you a feel for the themes.

      TEMPLES AND TOMBS

      Egypt’s world-famous ancient tombs and temples range the length of the Nile Valley, from the Pyramids of Giza outside Cairo to Abu Simbel. It takes about ten days to explore them, using intercity trains, local taxis and minibuses.

      1 Pyramids of Giza These gargantuan Old Kingdom monuments were constructed as tombs for three IV Dynasty rulers, Egyptologists believe – but there are many alternative theories as to why (and how) they were built.

      2 Abydos One of the foremost healing centres of Ancient Egypt, dedicated to the god Osiris enshrined in the exquisitely carved mortuary-temple of Seti I.

      3 Luxor The ancient New Kingdom capital has more tombs and temples than anywhere else in Egypt, from the awesome complex at Karnak to the Theban Necropolis across the river, with its fabulous Valley of the Kings.

      4 Edfu Sacred to the falcon-headed sky-god Horus, Egypt’s best-preserved cult-temple dates from the Greco-Roman era, but respects all the Ancient Egyptian traditions of temple architecture.

      5 Philae An exquisite island shrine to the goddess Isis, which was semi-submerged by the Nile before its reconstruction between the two Aswan Dams.

      6 Abu Simbel This great sun temple, with its colossi of Ramses II hewn from a hillside, was also saved from submersion by Lake Nasser.

      WILDLIFE

      Egypt is one of the world’s major flyover zones for birdlife, and the Red Sea abounds in corals and other aquatic life. You could visit all of these sites in about two weeks using a combination of buses and liveaboard boats.

      1 Lake Manzala This Mediterranean wetland is a wintering ground for egrets, avocets, cormorants, plovers, lapwings, redshanks, terns and other bird species.

      2 Ras Mohammed A marine national park at the southern tip of Sinai, which sustains a thousand-odd species of fish, from the child-friendly Crevice Pools to offshore dive-sites.

      3 Careless Reef Two coral-encrusted pinnacles just below the sea’s surface, whose depths harbour semi-tame moray eels (normally known for their ferocity).

      4 The Brothers These two isolated reef-pillars are magnets for pelagic fishes and the hunting grounds of hammerhead, tiger, reef and whale sharks.

      5 Marsa Alam The Red Sea’s southernmost resort serves as a springboard to wildlife sites in the far south, from Wadi Gimal to Ras Banata.

      6 Wadi Gimal This national park is especially rewarding during the spring and autumn migrations, to observe ospreys, falcons and flamingos.

      7 Ras Banata One of the few undisturbed breeding colonies for sea turtles, accessible by dive-boat from eco-lodges 80km south of Wadi Gimal.

      DIVERSE DESERTS

      Over 96 percent of Egypt’s landmass is desert, from the arid peaks of Sinai and the Eastern Desert to the dunes and escarpments of the Western Desert, where most of Egypt’s oases are located. A jeep-safari to all these sites lasts 11 to 18 days, but you could do most of the highlights in a week, using buses in conjunction with local safari outfits.

      1 Siwa Oasis Way out near Libya, Siwa has a unique character, romantic ruins, natural springs and other beauty spots.

      2 Great Sand Sea A 72,000-square-kilometre wilderness of dunes up to 100m high, stretching from Siwa to the Gilf Kebir. The Sand Sea can be entered from Siwa, or traversed on deep-desert safaris from Bahariya or Farafra Oasis.

      3 El-Qaf A 500,000-year-old stalactite cave, accessible by jeep from Bahariya or Farafra.

      4 White Desert This surreal landscape of chalk rock-formations within Farafra Oasis is actually best reached from Bahariya, visiting the Black Desert en route.

      5 Al-Qasr A labyrinthine medieval Islamic settlement in Dakhla Oasis, reached by off-road safari from Bahariya, or by bus along the road between these oases.

      6 Gilf Kebir This super-arid plateau at the remotest corner of Egypt is the site of extraordinary prehistoric rock art at the Cave of the Swimmers (featured in The English Patient) and other sites, accessible by long-range safari from Bahariya, Farafra and Dakhla.

      < Back to Introduction

      Basics

      Getting there >>

      Getting around >>

      Accommodation >>

      Food and drink >>

      The media >>

      Festivals >>

      Sports and outdoor activities >>

      Culture and etiquette >>

      Shopping >>

      Travelling with children >>

      Travel essentials >>

      BASICS

      GETTING THERE

      It is possible to get to Egypt by land, but most visitors fly in. Cairo has direct scheduled flights from London and New York, with indirect routes from pretty much everywhere, and there are low-cost flights from Britain to Luxor and the beach resorts.

      The best airfares are available in low season, November through March, excluding Christmas and New Year, which counts as high season along with June, July and August. Flights on weekends can cost more than on weekdays; prices quoted in the following section are for the cheapest round trip midweek including tax. Many have restrictions such as fixed dates, and may require advance booking.

      A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

      At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. All Rough Guides’ flights are carbon-offset, and every year we donate money to a variety of environmental charities.

      Flights from the UK and Ireland

        ba.com) have scheduled flights to Cairo  lufthansa.com) all offer indirect flights to Cairo from a number of British and Irish airports. Flights can cost as little as £275 return in low season, depending on the airline.

        crusadertravel.com) occasionally have cheap flight-only deals to the Red Sea resorts, but these are not usually advertised, so you’d need to approach the company direct. You may even find it cheaper to take a package tour than just a flight; there are some amazing bargains to be had among the basic Luxor-plus-Cairo or Luxor-only packages, and many smaller independent operators feature felucca trips on the Nile, diving holidays on the Red Sea or camel trekking in Sinai.

        From Ireland, you can either make your own way to London and fly from there, or take an indirect flight, changing planes in Britain or Europe. Fares to Cairo start at around €300, with many (but not all) airlines hiking their prices by around €100 in high season.

      Flights from the US and Canada

      From the US egyptair.com.eg) fly direct to Cairo from New York (10hr), and several European and Middle Eastern airlines offer indirect flights from a range of departure points, though New York still offers the biggest choice. West Coast flights are routed via the airlines’ hub cities, so check that you won’t have to wait overnight for your onward connection. You should be able to pick up a round-trip ticket for as little as $805 out of New York in low season, $1000 in high season. Flying from the West Coast, expect to pay $975 in low season, $1330 in high.

        From Canada  airfrance.com) fly via London or Paris from Toronto, Montreal or Vancouver, or you could fly to New York to pick up EgyptAir’s daily flight from there. Low/high-season fares start at around Can$1300/1800 from Montreal or Toronto, Can$1450/1950 from Vancouver.

      Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

      A number of European, Middle Eastern and Asian carriers offer indirect flights to Egypt from Australia and New Zealand  airarabia.com) from nearby Sharjah to Alexandria, Assyut or Luxor.

        From South Africa  etihadairways.com). Most serve only Johannesburg, but Emirates flies from Cape Town as well. Fares start at around R5,800 in low season (winter), R6,900 in high season (summer).

      From Israel and Cyprus by land and sea

      At the time of writing, the Rafah border crossing between Gaza and Egypt was closed, and all traffic between Israel and Egypt was using the crossing at Taba near Eilat (open 24/7 except Eid al-Adha and Yom Kippur). Entering Egypt via Taba, you’re subject to an Israeli departure tax of NIS96 ($25.50), plus a NIS5 handling fee ($1.30) and an Egyptian entry tax of £E75 ($12.50).

       mazada.co.il) used to run buses from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem to Cairo, but this service has been suspended since the revolution, though it may be reinstated in the future. Their office in Tel Aviv is just around the corner from the Egyptian embassy.

       iaa.gov.il/Rashat/en-US/Borders/Taba.

        The passenger ferry service from Limassol  varianostravel.com/Cruises/ferry_service.htm. The ferry does not carry vehicles.

      From Jordan by land and sea

      Direct buses do the 23-hour journey from Amman to Cairo, but they are neither pleasant nor economical. Unless time is of the essence, it’s better to do the journey in stages taking a ferry from Aqaba to Sinai.

        06 568 1560), run buses (currently daily at 2pm) for JD75 (approximately $106) including the boat. Most of these services will drop you in Cairo at Almaza terminal, but some arrive at the more convenient Sinai bus terminal. These direct buses usually take the Aqaba–Nuweiba ferry, but some may travel overland through Eilat (Israel), a route whose drawbacks are discussed in the following section, so you may want to check which route the bus will take before buying your ticket.

        From Aqaba, the quickest route to Egypt is by land via Eilat in Israel, using local transport. Disincentives are the telltale Arava and Taba border stamps, and the hefty exit and entry taxes (totalling around $46.50) payable at Eilat and Taba.

        Alternatively, there are ferries   03 201 3236). The terminal is served by local buses from Aqaba’s fort (heading towards the Saudi border at Durra), or costs around JD5 by taxi.

        An alternative is provided by Meenagate (next to the JETT bus park opposite the Kempinski  meenagate.com), who run a catamaran  03 201 9461).

        You pay a JD8 exit tax when boarding the ferry (and don’t expect any change back if you don’t have the exact money). Egyptian visas are available on arrival in Nuweiba (one-month full visa $15, two-week Sinai-only visa free).

      AGENTS AND OPERATORS

      Ancient World Tours  ancient.co.uk. In-depth archeological and historical tours led by experts to over 120 sites in Egypt, including special access to many sites otherwise off-limits to tourists.

      Discover Egypt  discoveregypt.co.uk. Packages and tailor-made itineraries including Nile cruises and multi-centre holidays.

      Egypt Tours  egyptours.com. Packages ranging from a six-night highlights tour to a nineteen-night In Depth trip, as well as combined tours with Jordan and Israel.

      North South Travel  northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

      Soliman Travel  solimantravel.com/eg. One of the longest-established UK-based Egypt tour operators, with charter flights and a large range of packages and tailor-made holidays, mainly in five-star accommodation.

      STA Travel   statravel.co.za. Independent travel specialists, offering good discounts for students and under-26s.

      Trailfinders  trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

      Travel Cuts  travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel firm.

      USIT  usit.ie. Ireland’s main youth and student travel specialists.

      Ya’lla Tours  yallatours.com. Middle East specialists offering a variety of Egypt tours and packages.

      < Back to Basics

      GETTING AROUND

      Egyptian public transport is, on the whole, pretty good. There is an efficient rail network linking the Nile Valley, Delta and Canal Zone, and elsewhere you can travel easily enough by bus or shared (service) taxi. On the Nile you can indulge in feluccas or cruise boats, while in the desert there’s the chance to test your camel-riding prowess. For those in a hurry, EgyptAir provides a network of domestic flights.

      While you can travel without restriction through most areas of Egypt, travel permits are required for desert travel between Bahariya and Siwa oases (permits available in Siwa), to Ain Della and the Gilf Kebir/Jebel Uwaynat in the western desert, for the desert east of Marsa Alam, and if you want to camp around Berenice and the Red Sea coast south of Marsa Alam. In principle, permits to visit restricted areas in the eastern and western deserts are obtainable from Military Intelligence (Mukaharabat), whose office is next-door to the Nasser Mosque at Abbassiya in Cairo (you’ll need two photos and photocopies of the identifying pages of your passport and your Egyptian entry visa, plus a detailed itinerary), but in practice, you are very unlikely to get a permit by approaching them directly, and it’s much easier to go through an authorized travel agency or, failing that, Misr Travel misrtrav@link.com.eg. You don’t currently need a permit to travel directly from Mersa Matrouh to the Libyan border, for example if taking a bus or service taxi to Benghazi or Tripoli, but the rules sometimes change, so it’s wise to check first.

      TOP 5 EGYPTIAN JOURNEYS

      Nile cruise Aswan to Luxor

      Sleeper train Cairo to Aswan

      Plane Aswan to Abu Simbel

      Jeep Siwa to Bahariya

      Camel safari Sinai

      By rail

      Covering a limited network of routes (Cairo to Alexandria, the Delta and the Canal Zone, along the coast to Mersa Matrouh and up the Nile Valley to Luxor and Aswan), Egypt’s trains are best used for long hauls, when air-conditioned services offer a comfier alternative to buses and taxis. For shorter journeys, trains are slower and less reliable.

      Timetables   wataniasleepingtrains.com).

        From Cairo to Alexandria or Aswan, there are fast a/c trains, including sleepers (also called wagons-lits) and snail-like non-a/c local services. However, on the Cairo–Luxor/Aswan route, foreigners are only allowed to use four "tourist trains" (two of which are sleepers), whose compartments are guarded by gun-toting plainclothes cops.

      Buying tickets can get complicated at the largest stations, where separate queues exist for different ticket classes.

      Air-conditioned trains

      Air-conditioned trains nearly always have two classes (although occasionally a/c trains will be first or second class only). The most comfortable option is first class (daraga awla), with waiter service, reclining armchairs and no standing. They also screen videos until midnight. Second class superior (daraga tania mukayyifa) is less plush and more crowded – but two-thirds the price of first class. Both classes are comfortable enough to allow you to sleep on an overnight journey, at a fraction of the cost of a sleeper — see Wagons-lits (sleepers).

        Seats are reservable up to seven days in advance. There is occasional double booking but a little baksheesh to the conductor usually sorts out any problem. One common difficulty is that return tickets can’t necessarily be booked at the point of origin. The peak seasons for travel are summer for Alexandria and winter for Upper Egypt.

        In terms of fares, a ticket from Cairo to Luxor costs around £E165 in first class (the only class allowed for tourists), while Cairo to Alexandria costs £E50 in first class, £E35 in second. Students with ISIC cards get at least a third off on all fares except on sleepers. Many travel agencies sell first-class tickets for a small commission, saving you from having to queue.

      Wagons-lits (sleepers)

      Many tourists cough up for a bed in a sleeper car (wagons-lits), which may comprise an entire train, or be limited to a couple of carriages tacked on to a regular service. Fares are relatively hefty (though still cheaper than flying) at $60 one way from Cairo to Luxor or Aswan. Passengers get a comfortable two-bed cabin (a single traveller can book one exclusively for $120, or pay the normal fare and share with someone of the same sex) with a sink, plus breakfast and dinner, and access to a dining car and a bar. In summer (mid-June to mid-Sept) there’s also a sleeper service from Cairo to Mersa Matrouh.

        Bookings for wagons-lits can be done at  wataniasleepingtrains.com), or through American Express; payment must be made in US dollars or euros.

      Non-air-conditioned trains

      Non-a/c trains comprise ordinary second class (daraga tania aadia) carriages, with padded bench seating, or third class (daraga talata), with wooden benches. Both are invariably crowded, the rolling stock ancient and often filthy, and schedules fanciful. Few foreigners use them, but on a few routes they are the only services available, and over short distances you might enjoy the disorder.

        There is no advance booking for seats on these services and you needn’t even queue for a ticket at the station – these can be bought on-board from the conductor, with just a small penalty fee of £E1–2 added to the fare.

      By bus

      Egypt’s three main bus companies, all based in Cairo, are: Upper Egypt Bus Company (Nile Valley, Fayoum, inner oases and the Red Sea Coast down to El-Quseir); East Delta Bus Company (Sinai and the Canal Zone); and West and Middle Delta Bus Company (Alexandria, Mersa Matrouh, Siwa and the Nile Delta). An independent firm, El Gouna, runs buses from Cairo to Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh. Key routes (Cairo to Alexandria, Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada) are also covered by Superjet (red, black and gold livery, known as Golden Arrows or Golden Rockets), a subsidiary of the Arab Union Transport Company which operates international services to Libya, Jordan, Syria and Saudi Arabia.

        Major routes are plied by a/c buses, usually new(ish) and fast. Local routes usually have cheaper non-a/c buses, generally old rattletraps. Superjet buses have a/c, toilets, videos and expensive snacks.

      Terminals and bookings

      Though most towns have a single bus depot for all destinations, cities such as Cairo and Alexandria have several. English- or French-speaking staff are fairly common at the larger ones, but rare in the provinces. Schedules – usually posted in Arabic only – change frequently. Bus information can be obtained from hotels in Sinai and the oases, and tourist offices in Luxor, Aswan and the oases.

        At city terminals, tickets are normally sold from kiosks, up to 24 hours in advance for air-conditioned or long-haul services. In the provinces, tickets may only be available an hour or so before departure, or on the bus itself in the case of through services, which are often standing-room only when they arrive. Passengers on a/c services are usually assigned a seat (the number is written in Arabic on your ticket), but seats on local buses are taken on a first-come, first-served basis. Fares are very reasonable: Cairo to Alexandria costs £E17 by ordinary bus, or £E30 on the deluxe Superjet service, while Cairo to Luxor is £E100 by Superjet.

      By service taxi

      Collective service taxis (known as servees) are one of the best features of Egyptian transport. They operate on a wide variety of routes, are generally quicker than buses and trains, and fares are very reasonable. On the downside, maniacal driving on congested roads calls for strong nerves; accidents are not uncommon.

        The taxis are usually big Peugeot saloons carrying seven passengers, or microbuses (meecros) seating a dozen. Most business is along specific routes, with more or less nonstop departures throughout the day on the main ones, while cross-desert traffic is restricted to early morning and late afternoon. Show up at the terminal (locations are detailed in the guide) and ask for a servees to your destination, or listen for drivers shouting it out. As soon as the requisite number of people (or less, if you’re willing to pay extra) are assembled, the taxi sets off. Fewer people travel after dark in winter or on Friday, when you might have to wait a while for a ride to a distant town; travelling in stages can be quicker.

        Service taxis have fixed fares, which you can ascertain by asking at your hotel (or the tourist office), or seeing what Egyptians pay. You can also charter a taxi – useful for day excursions or on odd routes, but you’ll have to bargain hard to get the right price.

      By car

      Driving in Egypt is not for the faint-hearted or inexperienced motorist. Cities, highways, backroads and pistes each pose a challenge to drivers’ skills and nerve. Pedestrians and carts seem blithely indifferent to heavy traffic. Though accidents are less frequent than you’d think, the crumpled wrecks alongside highways are a constant reminder of the hazards of motoring.

        The minimum age for driving in Egypt is 25 years, the maximum is 70. Foreigners require an International Driving Licence (obtainable from motoring organizations at home).

        The highest speed limit outside towns is 90km/h (56mph), despite old signs on some highways which still say 100km/h. In built-up areas, the highest speed limit is 60km/h (37mph), and on some stretches of road, the limit can be as low as 30km/h (18mph). Road signs are similar to those in Europe, but speed limits are usually posted in Arabic numerals. Vehicles drive on the right, although traffic in cities is relentless and anarchic, with vehicles weaving to and fro between lanes, signalling by horn. Two beeps means I’m alongside and about to overtake. A single long blast warns I can’t (won’t) stop and I’m coming through! Extending your hand, fingers raised and tips together, is the signal for Watch out, don’t pass now; spreading your fingers and flipping them forwards indicates Go ahead. Although the car in front usually has right of way, buses and trams always take precedence. On country roads – including the two-lane east- and west-bank highways along the Nile Valley – trucks and cars routinely overtake in the face of incoming traffic. The passing car usually flashes its lights as a warning, but not always.

        Most roads are bumpy, with potholes and all manner of traffic, including donkey carts and camels. Beware, especially, of children darting into the road. If you injure someone, relatives may take revenge on the spot. Avoid driving after dark, when Egyptians drive without lights, only flashing them on to high beam when they see another car approaching. Wandering pedestrians and animals, obstructions and sand drifts present extra hazards. In spring, flash floods can wash away roads in Sinai. On pistes (rough, unpaved tracks in the desert or mountains) there are special problems. You need a good deal of driving and mechanical confidence – and shouldn’t attempt such routes if you don’t feel your car’s up to scratch.

        Police or military road checks – signposted in English as Traffic Stations – occur on the approach roads to towns and oases and along major trunk routes. Foreign motorists are usually waved through, but you might be asked to show your passport or driving licence.

      Car rental

      Renting a car pays obvious dividends if you are pushed for time or plan to visit remote sites, but whether you’d want to drive yourself is another matter – it’s not much more expensive to hire a car and driver. Branches of Misr Travel, and numerous local tour agencies, can fix you up with one, or you can charter a taxi. If you bring your own vehicle, you are required to re-export it when you leave – even if it gets wrecked.

        A self-drive car can be rented through one of the international franchise chains, or a local firm (addresses are given in the guide). It’s worth shopping around as rates and terms vary considerably. At the cheaper end, you can get a car with unlimited mileage for around £50/$75 a day. Most companies require a hefty deposit, and not all accept credit cards. You cannot bring a rented car across the border into Egypt.

        Before making a reservation, be sure to find out if you can pick up the car in one city and return it in another. Generally, this is only possible with cars from Hertz, Avis or Budget. Before setting out, make sure the car has a spare tyre, tool kit and full documentation – including insurance cover, which is compulsory with all rentals.

      Fuel and breakdowns

      Petrol (benzene) and diesel stations are plentiful in larger towns but few and far between in rural and desert areas. Replace oil/air filters regularly, lest impurities in the fuel, and Egypt’s ubiquitous dust, clog up the engine.

        Egyptian mechanics are usually excellent at coping with breakdowns, and all medium-sized towns have garages (most with a range of spare parts for French, German and Japanese cars). If you break down miles from anywhere, however, you can pay a lot to get towed back.

      Vehicle insurance

      All car rentals must by law be sold with third-party insurance. Accident and damage insurance should be included, but make sure. In the case of an accident, get a written report from the police and from the doctor who first treats any injuries, without which your insurance may not cover the costs. Reports are written in Arabic.

        Driving your own vehicle, you will need to take out Egyptian insurance misrins.com.eg); offices are found in most towns and at border crossings. Premiums vary according to the size, horsepower and value of the vehicle.

      Motorbikes and bicycles

      Motorcycling could be a good way to travel around Egypt, but the red tape involved in bringing your own bike is diabolical (ask your national motoring organization and the Egyptian consulate for details). It’s difficult to rent a machine except in Luxor or Hurghada. Bikers should be especially wary of potholes, sand and rocks, and other road-users (see By car).

      Bicycles, useful for getting around small towns and reaching local sights or beaches, can be rented in Luxor, Aswan, Hurghada, Siwa Oasis and other places for a modest sum. Cycling in big cities or over long distances is not advisable. Traffic is murderous, the heat brutal and foreign cyclists are sometimes stoned by children (particularly in the Delta). If you’re determined to cycle the Nile Valley, the east bank expressway that runs down as far as Aswan is the safest route.

        Most towns have repair shops, well used to servicing local bikes and mopeds. They’re unlikely to have the right spare parts but can usually sort out some kind of temporary solution.

      Hitchhiking

      Hitchhiking is largely confined to areas with minimal public transport, or trunk routes if passing service taxis or scheduled buses are full. You usually pay anyway, and foreigners who hitch where proper transport is available may inspire contempt rather than sympathy. Women should never hitch without a male companion.

      By air

      In general, it’s only worth flying if your time is very limited, or for the view – the Nile Valley and Sinai look amazing from the air – although the trip from Aswan to  egyptair.com) flies between Cairo and Alexandria, Mersa Matrouh, Port Said, Sharm el-Sheikh, Hurghada, Marsa Alam, Assyut, Sohag, Luxor, Aswan and Abu Simbel, as well as between Aswan and Luxor and between Aswan and Abu Simbel. Details of flights and addresses of local offices appear in the text.

        Fares rise as seats on the plane get booked up, so it’s best to book early if possible. In winter season, it’s wise to book at least a week ahead for flights between Cairo and Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel or Sharm. Always reconfirm 72 hours prior to the journey, as overbooking is commonplace.

      By boat

      The colonial tradition of Nile cruises has spawned an industry with over two hundred steamers. Most sail from Luxor to Aswan (or the other way), a three- to five-day trip, stopping at Esna, Edfu and Kom Ombo.

        The most reliable cruises are sold with package holidays, and week-long cruises plus air fare are available for as little as £560 from the UK or $2700 from North America. In Egypt you can arrange a trip on the spot from around $50–60 per day (all per person in a twin cabin). Prices escalate dramatically for a luxury cruise.

        Looking for a Nile cruise in Egypt, shop around and don’t necessarily go for the cheapest deal – some

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