The Gun Digest Book of Revolvers Assembly/Disassembly

Astra 357

Similar/Identical Pattern Guns

The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Astra 357 also apply to the following gun.

Astra 44 Magnum

Astra-Unceta y Compania introduced their 357 Magnum revolver in 1972, and in 1980 a heavier version was offered in 44 Magnum. They are mechanically the same. While there is a similarity to Smith & Wesson design, there are important internal differences. In both chamberings, the guns were available in several barrel lengths. Interarms was the U.S. importer.

Disassembly:

 1. Remove the crane and cylinder assembly toward the front Remove the crane from the cylinder.

 2. Remove the grips, and take out the forward sideplate screw.

 3. The ejector rod has a reverse thread. It unscrews clockwise, front view. If it is not too tight, it can be removed as shown, with leather-padded pliers. If it is tight, grip the rod in a leather-padded vise, insert two empty cartridge cases in opposed chambers to protect the guide spline, and turn the cylinder.

 4. Remove the spring bushing and spring toward the front.

 5. Remove the locking rod and its spring toward the front.

 6. Remove the ejector rod toward the front.

 7. Remove the ejector/ratchet unit toward the rear.

 8. With the gun held as shown, tap the grip frame with a non-marring mallet until the sideplate drops into the hand.

 9. With a screwdriver of proper dimensions, remove the other three sideplate screws. Note that the upper screw will require a wider blade.

10. The safety-block bar will likely come off with the sideplate. Remove it from its recess.

11. Push the hammer spring base ring out of the frame toward the left, controlling the spring as it comes out. When the hammer strut and spring are separated from the base ring, note which of the recesses is being used. There are four, of varying depths, for spring power adjustment.

12. Move the cylinder latch button to the rear, and depress the trigger until the hammer clears the frame recess. Remove the hammer toward the right.

13. Hold a fingertip over the hole at the front of the hammer to arrest the spring and plunger, and push the double-action lever out of its recess toward either side.

14. A small tool can be used to lift the plunger and spring out of the hammer, through the hole at the front.

15. With a small screwdriver, slightly depress the spring and lift the rear of the trigger rebound slide off its post in the frame for removal.

Caution: The spring is under tension, so control it.

16. Move the cylinder stop to its rearmost position on the post, tilt it downward, and remove it toward the right.

17. Remove the rebound slide strut from the left side of the trigger. Control the cylinder hand plunger and spring.

18. Remove the cylinder hand from the right side of the trigger, and the plunger and spring from the rear.

19. Take out the screw at the front of the trigger guard, and remove the cylinder stop spring and plunger.

20. Move the cylinder hand slightly rearward to clear its slot in the frame, and remove the trigger assembly toward the right.

21. Remove the screw that retains the cylinder latch button. During removal of the screw, keep a fingertip on the latch bar inside, to prevent it from being forced outward. Remove the latch button toward the left.

22. Move the latch bar to the rear, and tilt its rear cross-piece outward (toward the right). Caution: As the inside rear tip of the bar clears the frame, the plunger and spring will be released. Remove the latch bar rearward and toward the right.

23. The rear sight assembly is retained by a single screw in its forward extension, and it is taken off upward.

24. The front sight is retained by a roll cross-pin. After the pin is driven out, it is taken off upward.

25. Drifting out a cross-pin in the barrel underlug will release the front cylinder locking plunger and its spring for removal toward the rear.

26. The firing pin and its spring are retained by a small cross-pin in the frame.

Reassembly Tips:

 1. When replacing the double-action lever in the hammer, insert a small drift through the hole at the front to depress the plunger and spring until the lever covers the plunger.

 2. Install the hammer-block bar on its post on the rebound slide in its uppermost position. Fit the guide track to it as the sideplate is installed.

 3. Select the hammer spring tension wanted by placing the spring in one of the four recesses in the base ring. The deeper the recess, the less tension.

 4. When installing the ejector rod in the cylinder, remember that it turns counterclockwise (front view) to tighten. Do not over-tighten, or the fine threads may be stripped. Place empty cartridge cases in the chambers to protect the spline.

 5. When installing the spring bushing, note that its flange must be oriented as shown.

Baby Hammerless

The Baby Hammerless was first made by Henry M. Kolb, from 1892 to 1910. Between 1910 and 1930, it was produced by R. F. Sedgeley at the same Philadelphia location, 2311 North 16th Street. The Baby Hammerless may qualify as the smallest revolver ever made. During its production time, there were several small variations in the design, but the internal mechanism was not changed.

Disassembly:

 1. Depress the latch, and remove the cylinder base pin. Note that some versions have a different base pin latch. Remove the cylinder.

 2. Remove the grip screw and take off the grips. Be careful – these early hard-rubber panels are fragile. Loosen the screw a few turns, and push gently on its head to free the right grip panel.

 3. Tap the lower end of the hammer spring out of its frame recess for removal.

 4. The trigger spring is retained by a screw inside the front of the grip frame. Use an offset screwdriver, or one with an angled tip, as shown, for removal.

 5. Removal of the trigger pivot screw will require a very small screwdriver tip, shaped to fit the slot. Be careful, as the screw threads are at the head of the screw.

 6. Remove the trigger assembly downward. The cylinder hand will be freed from its pivot post as it emerges, so take care that it isn’t lost.

 7. Taking out the cross-screw at the rear will free the hammer lever and the lever/hand spring for removal. Note that on the one shown, the spring is a later round-wire replacement.

 8. The trigger pivot screw is usually staked in place at its tip, and should not be routinely removed.

 9. The primary cylinder stop and its spring are retained by a cross-pin. The secondary stop, at the front, is driven in and staked in place. It is not routinely removed.

10. Remove the hammer pivot screw.

11. Keeping the rebound lever folded against the hammer, turn the hammer to the position shown for removal.

12. Removal of the hammer rebound lever can be done by drifting out its cross-pin. However, the pin is riveted in place on both sides, and this should be done only if necessary for repair.

13. The cylinder base pin latch and its spring are retained by a very small screw at the front of the frame. This screw is often finished-over, and should be removed only for repair.

14. The screw at front center retains the cylinder tension plunger and its spring. These parts are very small, so guard against loss.

Reassembly Tip:

 1. When installing the hammer spring, be sure its upper tip engages the notch in the rebound lever, as shown.

Charter Arms Off-Duty

Introduced in 1998 by the interim company Charter 2000, the internal-hammer Off-Duty has been continued by the present Charter Arms. The Off-Duty name was previously used for an external-hammer version. With a frame made of 7075 aircraft aluminum, the Off-Duty is one of the lightest revolvers of its type.

Disassembly:

 1. Remove the grip screw, and take off the two rubber panels. Remove the screw at the front of the frame, and take out the cylinder and crane. assembly.

 2. Before detailing disassembly of the cylinder unit, I will note that reassembly can be quite difficult. If takedown is not necessary for repair, don’t do it. To begin, use slim pliers to grip the center shaft, and leather-padded pliers to unscrew the ejector endpiece, as shown. Turn counter-clockwise, front view.

 3. Remove the endpiece, spring, and sleeve.

 4. Place a small block under the ejector to hold it out (the one shown is aluminum), and pull and turn the center shaft to align the holes in the ejector, the inside sleeve, and the shaft. Push out the tiny pin, and don’t lose lt.

 5. Remove the retaining sleeve and the cylinder lock spring.

 6. Remove the ejector shaft.

 7. Remove the ejector/ratchet unit.

 8. Insert a soft-metal rod (brass or aluminum) at the front, and tap it gently to free the crane lock-spring. Remove the crane unit, ejector spring, and the compression washer. Take care that the small washer isn’t lost.

 9. Depress the trigger until the small hole in the hammer spring guide is visible below its base-plate. Insert a small-diameter rod in the hole (an opened paper clip is shown), and release the trigger to trap the spring.

10. Remove the hammer spring assembly. If this is to be taken apart, USE CAUTION! The spring is compressed. Rest the base plate on a slightly-opened vise, and enclose the guide and spring in a shop cloth when removing. This traps the spring.

11. Remove the cross-screw at the rear of the frame.

12. Drift out the cross-pin at the lower rear of the frame. Note that all of those pins have splines at one end (in this case, they were on the right), and should be drifted out in that direction.

13. Drift out the cross-pin forward of the trigger.

14. Remove the hammer screw.

15. Move the grip frame slightly rearward, to clear its top projection from the frame, and carefully take it off downward, along with the hammer. The trigger will have to be slightly depressed for clearance. Do not use extreme force.

16. The hammer lever and its spring are pivoted and retained by a cross-pin. If this unit is taken apart, also note that the spring has a very small plunger.

17. Of the two cross-pins at the top of the frame, the front one retains the steel firing pin face-plate, which is not routinely removed. The pin rearward, indicated here, retains the firing pin and its spring, which are taken out toward the rear.

18. If the cylinder latch system is to be taken out, use an offset or angled screwdriver to remove the indicated screw.

19. Removal of this screw will free the other parts of the cylinder latch system. As the screw is taken out, control the plunger and spring, and ease them out. Also, note the orientation of the little cover-p1ate for reassembly.

20. Drift out the trigger cross-pin.

21. Remove the trigger assembly. The transfer bar and cylinder hand are easily detached.

22. Remove the pivot bushing and the spring from the trigger. Note for reassembly that the hooked end of the spring goes at the rear.

23. Use a tool to depress and control the cylinder stop plunger and spring, and move the stop inward, off its hollow post, for removal. Ease out the plunger and spring.

Reassembly Tip:

 1. When the grip frame is reinstalled, note that there is a projection on the top-piece that must enter a recess in the frame. Be careful with the aluminum grip-frame during installation.

Charter Arms 44 Bulldog

Similar/Identical Pattern Guns

The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Charter 44 Bulldog also apply to the following guns.

Charter Bulldog Pug

Charier Pathfinder

Charter Police Undercover

Charter Bulldog Tracker

Charter Pit Bull

Charter Target Bulldog

Charter Off-Duty

Charter Police Bulldog

Charter Undercover

In 1973, Charter Arms adapted its excellent small-frame revolver to the 44 Special cartridge, and, in my opinion, made it one of the best personal defense or police back-up guns in current production. Its pronounced recoil takes it out of the fun gun class, but for its intended purpose, it is without equal. The mechanism is simple, and these guns seldom need repair. However, there are a few points in total takedown that can give the amateur some difficulty. Mechanically, the Bulldog is essentially the same as the other Charter guns, and the instructions can be used for those as well.

Disassembly:

 1. The crane retaining screw is located at the lower front of the frame. Remove the crane screw, taking care not to lose the nylon lock-washer.

 2. Operate the cylinder latch, swing the cylinder out and remove the cylinder and crane assembly toward the left.

 3. Use smooth-jawed pliers to grip the ejector rod near the crane, and unscrew the ejector knob. Remove the knob, spring, and sleeve toward the front. Remove the crane toward the front.

 4. Depress the rear tip of the ejector rod and turn the rod until its internal pin aligns with the cross-hole in the ejector/ratchet piece. Use a drift punch of small diameter to push out the small cross-pin.

Caution: The spring is under compression and removal of the pin will release both the ejector rod at the front, and the ejector bushing at the rear. Ease them out. and take care not to lose the tiny bushing pin.

 5. Remove the ejector bushing and spring from the ejector/ratchet piece.

 6. Remove the ejector and ratchet piece from the rear of the