Lonely Planet Western Balkans

Western Balkans

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to the Western Balkans

Western Balkans’ Top 15

Need to Know

What’s New

If You Like…

Month by Month

Itineraries

Activities

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Countries at a Glance

ON THE ROAD

ALBANIA

Tirana

Central Albania

Kruja

Berat

Korça

Gjirokastra

The Albanian Riviera & the East

Saranda

Ksamil

Himara

Shkodra

The Accursed Mountains & the North

Valbona

Theth

Understand Albania

Survival Guide

BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA

Sarajevo

Eastern Bosnia

Bjelašnica

Visoko

Višegrad

Sutjeska National Park

Hercegovina

Mostar

Blagaj

Međugorje

Počitelj

Trebinje

Western Bosnia

Travnik

Jajce

Banja Luka

Una River Valley

Understand BiH

Survival Guide

CROATIA

Zagreb

Istria

Pula

Brijuni Islands

Rovinj

Poreč

Motovun

Hum

Labin & Rabac

Kvarner

Rijeka

Krk Island

Lika

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Paklenica National Park

Dalmatia

Zadar

Krka National Park

Šibenik

Trogir

Split

Makarska Riviera

Brač Island

Hvar Island

Korčula Island

Elafiti Islands

Dubrovnik

Cavtat

Understand Croatia

Survival Guide

Scenic Showstoppers

Religious Architecture

KOSOVO

Pristina

Around Pristina

Western Kosovo

Peja (Peć)

Rugova Valley

Southern Kosovo

Prizren

Understand Kosovo

Survival Guide

MONTENEGRO

Bay of Kotor

Herceg Novi

Perast

Kotor

Tivat

Adriatic Coast

Budva

Sveti Stefan

Ulcinj

Velika Plaža & rAda Bojana

Central Montenegro

Lovćen National Park

Cetinje

Lake Skadar National Park

Podgorica

Northern Montenegro

Biogradska Gora National Park

Durmitor National Park

Understand Montenegro

Survival Guide

NORTH MACEDONIA

Skopje

Around Skopje

Mt Vodno

Canyon Matka

Western North Macedonia

Mavrovo National Park

Lake Ohrid

Ohrid

Galičica National Park

Central North Macedonia

Pelister National Park

Bitola

Understand North Macedonia

Survival Guide

SERBIA

Belgrade

Vojvodina

Novi Sad

Fruška Gora National Park & Sremski Karlovci

Subotica

Western & Central Serbia

Tara National Park & Around

Kragujevac

Novi Pazar

Eastern & Southern Serbia

Đerdap National Park & Around

Niš

Stara Planina

Understand Serbia

Survival Guide

SLOVENIA

Ljubljana

The Julian Alps

Lake Bled

Radovljica

Lake Bohinj

Kranjska Gora

Soča Valley

Bovec

Kobarid

Slovenian Karst

Postojna

Cerknica

Škocjan Caves

Western Wine Regions

Goriška Brda

Slovenian Coast

Koper

Piran

Eastern Slovenia

Maribor

Ptuj

Southeastern Slovenia

Dolenjske Toplice

Understand Slovenia

Survival Guide

UNDERSTAND

The Western Balkans Today

History

People & Religion

Arts & Architecture

Environment

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Children

Climate

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Health

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to the Western Balkans

Cramming in more history, culture and spectacular scenery than seems entirely reasonable for its size, the Western Balkans is one of Europe’s most intriguing regions.

Great Outdoors

Rocky mountains and terracotta-roofed towns plunge spectacularly into crystal-clear waters all along the Adriatic coast. Among all the crowded beach resorts, Croatia’s myriad islands provide nooks of quiet seclusion, while Albania’s less-visited riviera still has donkeys wandering through olive groves abutting secluded bays. Craggy mountains stretch along the entire region, offering endless opportunities for hiking, biking, skiing, climbing and paragliding. In their shadows are rowable lakes, raftable rivers and scramble-able canyons.

Home to History

Though change is coming quickly to the Western Balkans, timeless traditions retain their currency. It’s a region where you can barely keep up with the nightlife, but still get stuck behind a horse and cart. Urban landscapes are a pop-up book of European architectural history on a grand scale. Winding Ottoman streets are punctuated with Byzantine churches, Austro-Hungarian villas and angular communist-era blocks. Throw in Roman ruins and Venetian palaces, then wrap it all in a medieval wall and plonk it by the sea.

Culinary Adventures

Foreign invaders have plundered the Balkans for millennia and the region’s cooks have plundered right back, incorporating Venetian, Austrian, Hungarian and Ottoman flavours into the mixing pot. You might tuck into crumbed schnitzel in Ljubljana, seafood risotto in Split, octopus carpaccio in Budva, goulash in Novi Sad, burek (savoury pastry) in Sarajevo, kebab in Kosovo, baklava in Tirana and stuffed peppers in Skopje. Locally produced olive oil, truffles and wine hold their own against the best in the world, as does the seafood and herb-grazed lamb.

Cultural Pursuits

Aside from the ever-present architectural legacy, the Balkans are liberally scattered with artistic treasures, from church frescoes to socialist modernist sculptures and an edgy contemporary art scene. You’re likely to stumble on streetside klapa (unaccompanied vocal harmony) performances in Dalmatia, plaintive sevdah singers in Bosnia, bards wielding gusle (single-stringed instruments) in Montenegro and upbeat Roma trubači (trumpet bands) in Serbia. Religious feasts, film festivals and large-scale music festivals are all celebrated with gusto.

Kravica Waterfall, Bosnia and Hercegovina | LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love the Western Balkans

By Peter Dragicevich, Writer

With two of my grandparents hailing from the region, I have always had the Western Balkans in my blood – but then it somehow got under my skin. As a travel destination it’s got a bit of everything that I love: beaches; islands; mountains; lakes; waterfalls; forest; wildlife; ancient buildings; historic towns; fascinating museums and galleries; excellent wine; and delicious food. But most striking of all are its people. Despite their much vaunted differences, the more you travel in the Western Balkans, the more you’re struck by the similarities between the hospitable, gregarious, larger-than-life characters that you meet.

For more, see Our Writers

Western Balkans’ Top 15

Bay of Kotor, Montenegro

There’s a sense of secrecy and mystery to the Bay of Kotor. Grey mountain walls rise steeply from steely blue waters, getting higher and higher as you progress through their folds to the hidden reaches of the inner bay. Here, ancient stone settlements hug the shoreline, with the old alleyways of Kotor concealed in its innermost reaches behind hefty stone walls. Talk about drama! But you wouldn’t expect anything else of coastal Montenegro, where life is lived in an exuberant Mediterranean style.

PHOTOSMATIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Get up close and personal with breathtaking Dubrovnik with a walk around the spectacular old town walls (pictured), as history is unfurled from the battlements. No visit is complete without a leisurely stroll along these ramparts, the finest in the world and Dubrovnik’s main claim to fame. Built between the 13th and 16th centuries, they are still remarkably intact and the views they afford over the terracotta rooftops and the brilliantly blue Adriatic are sublime. For a bird’s-eye perspective, take the cable car up Srđ, the city’s craggy backdrop.

IHOR PASTERNAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Lake Bled, Slovenia

There’s a Disney-esque quality to the beauty of Lake Bled – it’s almost too perfect to be believed. First there’s the preposterously blue colour of the water itself. Add to that a precisely positioned island capped by a picture-postcard church, overlooked by a medieval castle clinging to a rocky cliff on the lake’s edge. Then there’s the spectacular backdrop of the Julian Alps… It’s all just a bit much. All of that unsettling beauty comes at a price: Lake Bled is Slovenia’s busiest tourist destination.

Church of the Assumption, Bled Island | PAUL BIRIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Mostar, Bosnia & Hercegovina

If the 1993 destruction of the famous 16th-century bridge at the heart of Mostar (pictured) underlined the heartbreaking pointlessness of Yugoslavia’s brutal civil war, its painstaking reconstruction has proved symbolic of the post-conflict era. The charming Ottoman quarter has been convincingly restored and is once again an atmospheric patchwork of stone mosques, souvenir stalls and street cafes. Meanwhile, rows of bombed-out buildings hint at how far there is to go until full reconciliation is achieved in this still-divided town.

CCR_358/GETTY IMAGE ©

Top Experiences

Mt Triglav, Slovenia

For such a small country, Slovenia packs a lot in: charming towns, great wines, a Venetian-inspired seashore and, most of all, mountains. The highest peak, Mt Triglav (2864m), stands particularly tall in local lore. Indeed, the saying goes that you’re not really Slovene until you’ve climbed to the top. If time is an issue and you’re driving, head for the high-altitude Vršič Pass, which crosses the Julian Alps and leads down to the sunny coastal region in one hair-raising, spine-tingling hour.

DEJAN_K/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Sarajevo, Bosnia & Hercegovina

There’s something appealing about Bosnia’s capital Sarajevo. It’s partly to do with the East-meets-West, Ottoman-meets-Austrian architecture, for sure. And it’s definitely related to the heady scent of Bosnian coffee (pictured) and the nation’s best burek (heavy pastry stuffed with meat or cheese) and ćevapi (lozenges of minced meat served with bread) permeating the fascinating Turkic-era alleyways of Baščaršija. It’s also there in the city’s long history as a unique ethno-religious melting pot. War history aside, Sarajevo is simply beguiling.

LIFEINVIEWFINDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia

Whether you come to hilly Ohrid for its sturdy medieval castle, to wander the stone lanes of its old town or to gaze at the Plaošnik archaeological site, every visitor pauses for a few moments at the Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo (pictured), set high on a bluff overlooking Lake Ohrid and its beaches. It’s the prime spot for absorbing the town’s interesting architecture, idling sunbathers and distant fishing skiffs – all framed by the green of Mt Galičica and the endless expanse of lake.

S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Berat, Albania

Declared a ‘museum town’ under the communist regime and now a Unesco World Heritage Site, this gorgeous ensemble of Ottoman houses gazes down at the Osumi River from a hillside, earning Berat the epithet ‘town of a thousand windows’. At the very top it’s capped by a sturdy fortress scattered with tiny chapels and churches, and a 15th-century mosque. It’s easily one of Albania’s most charming towns and it can also boast some of the country’s most atmospheric accommodation, including an excellent hostel and historic hotels.

CHRISTIAN WITTMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade is a fascinating living museum of its turbulent past; its measured rise from former Yugoslavian ashes is today its catalyst for cool. By day, a melange of communist-era blocks and art nouveau architecture corral a cocktail of old-world culture and cutting-edge cosmopolitanism. By night (and well past dawn), Belgrade throbs to the beat of its infamous splavovi (river-barge nightclubs), born of the city’s live-for-the-moment ethos and sociable spirit. A capital in transition, the ‘White City’ now teeters between comfortably unhurried and overzealously progressive.

E2DAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Island-Hopping in Croatia

Travelling by ferry is a great and inexpensive way to experience the Croatian side of the Adriatic. Take in the spectacular coastal scenery as you whiz past some of Croatia’s 1244 islands and islets, and stop to explore hidden beaches and historic towns like those on glamorous Hvar (pictured). And if you have cash to splash, take it up a couple of notches and charter a sailboat to see the islands in style, propelled by winds and sea currents to places that are otherwise inaccessible.

XBRCHX/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Durmitor National Park, Montenegro

This rugged expanse at the very north of Montenegro consists of the plunging depths of the Tara River canyon and the wild uplands of the Durmitor mountain range. Reflecting the beauty of the imposing grey peaks are 18 glacial lakes, known as gorske oči (mountain eyes). The largest and most beautiful is the Black Lake, its inky appearance caused by the surrounding pines and the peak rearing above it. In summer, Durmitor is a magnet for rafters and hikers; in winter, it’s a well-priced and reliable ski resort.

DAN TAUTAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Prizren, Kosovo

Kosovo’s most charming town is pretty little Prizren, nestled in the valley of the Bistrica River and dominated by the minarets and church towers of its old town (pictured). Despite the dark legacy of war, Prizren today is a forward-looking place, with one of Eastern Europe’s best film festivals, Dokufest, bringing a splash of international sophistication every summer. The rest of the year you can explore the town’s rich heritage in the form of its hilltop fortress, grand mosques and ancient churches.

MILOSK50/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Accursed Mountains, Albania

Albania’s natural landscape is its greatest drawcard, and it’s best experienced in the country’s north, where the Accursed Mountains offer superb hiking, traditional mountain villages, and the ferry ride across picturesque Lake Koman. The most popular hike is the gorgeous and only moderately challenging day trek from Valbona to Theth, which shouldn’t be missed. But for keen walkers there are dozens of opportunities to walk in the wilds of high Albania.

OLLIRG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Pelister National Park, North Macedonia

Encompassing North Macedonia’s third-highest mountain range, Pelister National Park is home to big native mammals such as wolves, chamois, deer, wild boars and bears. There’s excellent hiking to be had, not least the track to the summit and its two glacial lakes, known as ‘Pelister’s Eyes’. On the lower slopes, guesthouses in the villages of Brajčino and Dihovo offer authentic experiences of rural life, delivering traditional food and hospitality. For added buzz, you can even book a session with a local beekeeper.

OLLIRG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Vojvodina, Serbia

The multicultural northern Serbian province of Vojvodina may be best known for its main city of Novi Sad, the 2021 European Capital of Culture and the home of the mega-popular EXIT Festival (pictured). But this rustic region is also distinguished by its tranquil nature, mellow villages, unhurried vibe, Hungarian-influenced gastronomy and a laid-back legacy of big-hearted hospitality. Compact and well linked by good roads, the quirky highlights of Vojvodina offer a slow-travel treat for those keen on kicking back.

ALEKSANDAR KAMASI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Albania: lek (lekë); Bosnia & Hercegovina: convertible mark (KM); Croatia: kuna (KN); Kosovo, Montenegro and Slovenia: euro (€); North Macedonia: denar (MKD), Serbia: dinar (RSD)

Languages

Albanian, Bosnian, Croatian, Macedonian, Montenegrin, Serbian, Slovene

Visas

Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days, although some nationalities do need them.

Money

ATMs are widely available in most towns. Acceptance of credit cards is normally confined to upper-end hotels, restaurants and shops, although it’s becoming more widespread.

Mobile Phones

Users with unlocked phones can buy a local SIM card. Otherwise, you may be charged roaming rates.

Time

Central European Time (GMT plus one hour)

When to Go

High Season (Jun–Aug)

A High temperatures and balmy evenings.

A Hotels will be about 30% more expensive and you may need to book in advance, particularly by the beach.

A Big draws like the Croatian islands will be crowded.

Shoulder (Apr–May & Sep–Oct)

A The weather is mild and warm.

A Prices drop and crowds dwindle.

A Various festivals spark up; all up, it’s the best time to travel in the region.

Low Season (Nov–Mar)

A Days can be dark and cold.

A Hotel prices drop to their lowest.

A Many attractions and coastal towns all but close – time to hit the ski slopes!

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/balkans) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Hidden Europe (www.hiddeneurope.co.uk) Fascinating magazine and online dispatches from all the continent’s corners.

Independent Balkan News Agency (www.balkaneu.com) Region-specific economics and politics.

Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Find out what’s going on before you get there.

Calvert Journal (www.calvertjournal.com) Online magazine on contemporary culture in Eastern Europe, including the Balkans.

Important Numbers

To call from outside individual countries, dial your international access code, then the country code, the area code (without the initial 0) and the local number.

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than €50

A Dorm bed: €10–25

A Cheap meal or takeaway: €2–8

A Beer: €1.30–3

Midrange: €50–180

A Double room in a midrange hotel: €30–100

A Meal at a decent restaurant: €7–25

A Admission to museums: €1–4

Top end: More than €180

A Top-end, prime-view hotel: €100–300

A Dinner at a leading restaurant: €25–50

A Hire car per day: €40–80

Opening Hours

Business hours vary across the region, changing by season and arbitrarily at will. As a rough guide:

Banks & Offices 8am–5am Monday to Friday, with an hour or two off over lunch; some open on Saturday mornings

Cafes & Bars 8am–midnight

Restaurants noon–11pm or midnight; often closed Sundays outside peak season

Shops 8am–7pm; siesta can be any time between noon and 4pm

Arriving in the Western Balkans

Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport A taxi to central Belgrade (18km) should cost around 1800RSD. Local bus 72 (89RSD to 150RSD) and A1 minibus (300RSD) connect the airport to town.

Zagreb Airport Croatia Airlines buses (30KN) leave from the airport every half-hour or hour from about 7am to 10.30pm. Taxis to the centre cost between 150KN and 200KN.

Split Airport Buses head to the main bus station at least 14 times a day (30KN, 30 minutes). Local buses 37 and 38 stop near the airport every 20 minutes, heading to Split (17KN) or Trogir (13KN). Taxis to Split cost between 250KN and 300KN.

Nënë Tereza International Airport (Tirana) Rinas Express buses operate an on-the-hour service to the city centre (250 lekë). The going taxi rate is 2000 to 2500 lekë.

Getting Around

Car Useful for travelling at your own pace, or for visiting regions with minimal public transport. Cars can be hired in every city or larger town. Drive on the right.

Bus Reasonably priced, with comprehensive coverage of the region and frequent departures.

Boat Croatia has a sizeable network of car ferries and faster catamarans all along the coast and the islands.

Air There’s an extensive schedule of flights between the major cities of the region.

Train Less frequent and much slower than buses, with a limited network.

For much more, see Getting Around

What’s New

Dark History in Tirana

Two museums in the Albanian capital take a critical look at the communist past. The House of Leaves examines surveillance and interrogation under the old regime. Bunk’Art 2, housed in hidden bunkers, looks at the nefarious role of the secret police.

New Attractions for Sarajevo

The Sarajevo Cable Car has finally reopened for the first time since the 1990s siege, linking the centre with a viewpoint high up Mt Trebević. The Museum of Crimes Against Humanity & Genocide 1992–1995 covers the horrors of the Bosnian War in unflinching detail.

Belgrade Museum Reopenings

After being closed for 10 and 15 years respectively, due to reconstruction and a lack of funds, two of Belgrade’s major museums have finally reopened – the Museum of Contemporary Art and the National Museum.

Sveti Stefan Island Tours, Montenegro

The walled island village of Sveti Stefan has been off limits to nonguests since it was converted into an exclusive resort for the uber-rich. Limited but pricy tours are now available.

European Capital of Culture, Rijeka

Croatia’s cultural cred hasn’t been lost on the EU, with the gritty coastal city of Rijeka set to receive the rotating honour in 2020. Expect concerts, exhibitions and other activities.

Via Ferrata Berim, Kosovo

A new via ferrata (iron path) climbing route has been laid on Mokra Gora in northern Kosovo, climbing 520m over the course of 3km.

Archaeological Museum of Macedonia

This recently opened museum is the culmination of Skopje’s splurge on edifices to bolster national pride. Its three floors extol the riches of North Macedonia’s weighty history better than anywhere else in the country.

Golubac Fortress, Serbia

The remains of this 14th-century fortress on the Danube stand sentinel at the entrance to the Iron Gates gorge and Ɖerdap National Park. A massive EU-funded reconstruction was completed in 2019.

Bear Watching, Slovenia

The number of operators offering bear-watching tours has expanded, and the Lož Valley (Loška Dolina) area has emerged as one of Europe’s best wildlife-watching opportunities.

Next Wave Cafes, Croatia

Following international trends, specialist roastery cafes have started to sprout in Croatia. Zagreb’s Cogito has expanded to Zadar and Dubrovnik, while D16 has set up shop in Split’s Roman palace.

For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/western-balkans

If You Like…

Outdoors Action

Extreme sports in Bovec, Slovenia The region’s unrivalled location for extreme sports, offering everything from canyoning to hydrospeeding.

Great-value skiing, Bosnia & Hercegovina Sarajevo’s two Olympic ski resorts, Bjelašnica and Jahorina, offer reliable and affordable skiing.

Rafting the Tara Canyon, Montenegro Hit the rapids of the Tara River hidden within Europe’s deepest canyon.

Windsurfing in Bol, Croatia The famous Zlatni Rat beach attracts crowds of swimmers and windsurfers in summer.

Hiking in the Accursed Mountains, Albania Snow-capped peaks and traditional mountain villages in one of Europe’s most remote corners.

Danube Cycling Path, Serbia Cycle along the Danube through the mighty Iron Gates gorge in Serbia’s Đerdap National Park.

Kayaking in Canyon Matka, North Macedonia Paddle your way through this gorgeous river canyon, only 15km from the Macedonian capital.

Rock climbing on Mokra Gora, Kosovo Experienced climbers can tackle the challenging 3km-long Via Ferrata Berim route to 1731m-high Berim peak.

Swimming beneath Kravica Waterfall, Bosnia & Hercegovina Swim in the emerald waters at the base of this broad, beautiful arc.

Outdoor Pursuits in Rugova Valley, Kosovo Gorgeous mountain and river vistas in a serpentine valley, with access to active pursuits aplenty.

Canyon Matka, North Macedonia | CREATIVE FAMILY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Old Towns

Dubrovnik, Croatia Marble-paved streets and glorious sea views can be admired from Dubrovnik’s resplendent city walls.

Kotor, Montenegro Walled Kotor is dramatically wedged between the sea and the steeply rising grey mountainside.

Sarajevo, Bosnia & Hercegovina Enjoy a Bosnian coffee in Baščaršija, the bustling old Turkish quarter.

Berat, Albania A meandering Unesco-listed town filled with black-and-white Ottoman-style houses.

Ohrid, North Macedonia Picturesque churches and ancient ruins perched above one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes.

Prizren, Kosovo An atmospheric town overlooked by a hilltop fortress and crammed with mosques and churches.

Piran, Slovenia Venetian-Gothic architecture fills the historic core, set on a narrow peninsula jutting into the Adriatic.

Korčula Town, Croatia A mini Dubrovnik, with hefty walls encircling a thumb-shaped promontory gazing over the Adriatic.

Ancient Remnants

Diocletian’s Palace, Croatia Imposing and remarkably intact Roman architecture in the beating heart of Split.

Butrint, Albania Enchanting 2500-year-old ruins scattered throughout a forest on the Ionian coast.

Belgrade Fortress, Serbia Destroyed over 40 times, this promontory on the Danube has been fortified since Celtic times.

Kokino Observatory, North Macedonia Take in the atmosphere of this archaeo-astronomical site, where the ancients performed complex lunar calculations.

Pula, Croatia Along with its magnificent 1st-century amphitheatre, Pula has a complete Roman temple and triumphal arch.

Apollonia, Albania The future Emperor Augustus studied at this once-important town, where only ruins remain.

Lepenski Vir, Serbia This Mesolithic-era settlement is famous for its stone fish-like idols with human faces.

Museum on Water – Bay of Bones, North Macedonia A prehistoric settlement of pile dwellers on Lake Ohrid, excavated by an underwater team.

Baptistry, Butrint, Albania | CHRISTIAN WITTMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Wining & Dining

Istrian treats, Croatia Restaurants serve up truffles, wild asparagus and fresh seafood, while wineries produce top drops.

Slow food, North Macedonia Homespun cooking, from paprika-tinged sausages to foraged mushrooms, is putting North Macedonia firmly on the menu.

Fast food, Bosnia & Hercegovina There’s no better place for burek (savoury pastries) or ćevapi (skinless sausages) than Sarajevo.

Vojvodinian cuisine, Serbia Serbian and Hungarian flavours combine in the rustic food of this border region.

Mountain produce, Montenegro Njeguši village in Lovćen National Park is famous for its pršut (prosciutto), cheese and honey.

Wine tours, Slovenia Enjoy gourmet treats and tour the wine cellars of Vipava Valley by car or bike.

Dalmatian delights, Croatia If you like wine, olive oil, garlic and fresh seafood, you’re in the right place.

Nightlife

Belgrade, Serbia Belgrade’s eclectic party scene is limited only by imagination and hours in the day.

Zrće Beach, Croatia It’s incredible that Pag Island hasn’t sunk with all the jumping up and down.

Tirana, Albania The Albanian capital has a particularly lively scene in and around its famous Blloku neighbourhood.

Ljubljana, Slovenia Pubs, cafes, cocktail bars and a set of scruffy clubs in an old army barracks.

Sarajevo, Bosnia & Hercegovina Smoke nargile (hookah) in former caravanserai (inn) courtyards, or slink into back-alley bars.

Budva, Montenegro Scores of beachside bars and clubs have earned Budva the nickname ‘the Montenegrin Miami’.

Hvar Town, Croatia Post-beach sundowners inevitably lead on to cocktails, then crowded little dance bars.

Contemporary Art

Belgrade Museum of Contemporary Art, Serbia Art from the former Yugoslavia is showcased in this renovated museum on the Sava River.

Bunk’Art, Tirana, Albania Contemporary art and history displays now fill this huge communist-era bunker on Tirana’s fringes.

Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art, Croatia Striking architecture combines with edgy art in this huge Novi Zagreb museum.

Skopje Museum of Contemporary Art, North Macedonia The permanent collection includes works from the likes of Picasso and Hockney, alongside local luminaries.

Zepter Museum, Belgrade, Serbia One of the region’s best private collections, housed in an impressive 1920s building.