Growing Tomatoes (High Value Vegetable)

Posted by EPa in Plant-Crops

Tomatoes have an annual average growth rate of 2.33% in the Philippines for the period of 1998 to 2002. Major producers of tomato in the Philippines include Pangasinan (22.811.40 tons, average for 1998-2002), Bukidnon (17,297.20 tons), Ilocos Norte (14,489.40 tons), Iloilo (10,476.80 tons), Ilocos Sur (10,001.20 tons) and Nueva Ecija (7,900 tons). Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Tomatoes are considered as a hot weather crop. Tomatoes like heat and humidity. Tomatoes need light, fertile soil with a lot of organic matter. Too much nitrogen can reduce tomato yields. Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Make sure that the soil is loose and at least 12 in depth. Tomatoes are heavy feeders so mix incompost or chopped leaves to enrich the soil. Tomatoes do well in soils with a pH of 5.8 to 7. Tomatoes need high amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Tomato plants have two distinct growing habits determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants need staking or cages to help hold the tomato plant up so spacing should include room for the stakes or cages. Tomato plants may be spaced 12-24 apart. Air circulation must be considered between tomato plants. Indeterminate tomato plants will spread out on the ground or climb a trellis if offered one. Space indeterminate tomato plants 24-36 apart if unsupported. If trellis is used for indeterminate tomatoes, they may be spaced at 14-2o inches apart. Keep at least 2 between the rows of tomatoes. Tomato seeds are not normally sown directly into beds. But they may be planted directly into moist prepared beds after the soil has reached 8o. Sow tomato seeds 1/2 deep, 6-8 apart in rows 2 apart. Thin tomato plants to proper spacing after the seedlings are established. Water the tomato seeds evenly. For transplants, sow tomato seeds indoors 1/4 deep in cell trays. Keep tomato seeds evenly moist and place the trays under grow lights if available. Transplant tomato seedlings to larger, peat pots when they reach 35 tall. Bury the tomato seedlings with soil so only 1 of the tomato plant is above the soil line. These seeds germinate best in soils around 8o-90F. Germination takes 6-8 days. Harden-off tomato seedlings two weeks before planting time. Choose a planting date when the soil has warmed to 8oF. Bury the tomato plants so that only 4 of the starts are visible. Water the tomato transplants well and mulch them with straw. Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Use straw mulch on the tomato beds to help retain soil moisture. Water tomatoes deeply during dry spells. Water the base of the tomato plant, not the foliage. Watering the foliage when tomatoes are maturing can cause the fruits to crack. Indeterminate tomatoes need support. Tomato fruits mature more evenly when the tomato plants are trellised. Place trellis or other supports for the tomatoes before they are transplanted into beds. Use siskal
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twine liberally to tie the tomato plant to the support. Dont let the branches of the tomato plant bend or they might snap from the weight of the tomatoes. Tomato plants need to be reinforced throughout the growing season so check them often and add additional support as needed. Most tomato plants will need pruning. Pruning reduces the amount of space tomato plants take up and will encourage higher yields of tomatoes. Pruning involves snapping off the branch that grows in the middle of two others often referred to as a sucker. Snap the suckers off tomato plants as they appear. If the sucker has flowers on it leave it. Leave a few suckers toward the top of the plant to protect the tomatoes from the sun with their leaves. But keep an eye on them and prune them as needed to keep them from growing new branches. Unpruned tomato vines become unwieldy and tomato harvest will be less. Studies have shown that a pruned tomato plant will produce tomatoes up to 2 weeks earlier than unpruned. Tomatoes are heavy feeders. Occasionally fertilize tomatoes with fish emulsion. Pest and Disease Control Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Tomato diseases are rarely fatal if the proper management is employed. Diseases must be caught on early, before it spreads to all tomato plants and possibly other plants in the same family, such as potatoes, eggplants and peppers. Foliage diseases include early blight, gray leaf spot, late blight, septoria leaf spot, southern blight and verticillium wilt. Early blight can affect the foliage, stems and fruit of tomatoes. This disease is characterized by dark spots with concentric rings developed on older leaves first. The surrounding leaf area may turn yellow. Affected leaves may die prematurely, exposing the fruits to sun blister. Early blight fungus is soil-borne. It can also come in on transplants. This disease may be controlled by removing affected plants and by thoroughly cleaning fall garden debris. Wet weather and stressed plants increase likelihood of attack. Copper and/or sulfur sprays can prevent further development of the fungus. Gray leaf spot affects only the leaves of tomatoes, starting with the oldest leaves. This disease is characterized by small, dark spots that can be seen on both the top and bottom surfaces of the leaves. The spots grow large and turn grayish brown. The centers of the spots crack and fall out eventually. Surrounding leaf areas turn yellow and the leaves dry up and drop. Fruit production is inhibited. Warm, moist conditions worsen gray leaf spot problems. This disease may be controlled by removing all affected plants and garden debris. Selection of resistant varieties also helps. Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Late blight affects both the leaves and fruit of tomatoes. This disease spreads rapidly. This disease is characterized by irregularly shaped gray spots on leaves. A ring of white mold can develop around the spots, especially in wet weather. The spots eventually turn dry and papery. Blackened areas may appear on the stems. The fruit also develop large, irregularly shaped, greasy gray spots. Cool, wet weather encourages the development of the fungus.

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Septoria Leaf Spot is sometimes mistaken for Late Blight. With septoria leaf spot, the papery patches on the leaves develop tiny, dark specks inside them. Older leaves are affected first. This disease may be controlled by copper sprays that halt the spread of symptoms. Southern Blight manifests as a white mold growing on the stem near the soil line. Dark, round spots will appear on the lower stem and both the outer and inner stem will become discolored. Southern Blight fungus girdles the tomato stem and prevents the plant from taking up water and nutrients. Young plants may collapse at the soil line. This disease may be controlled by crop rotation. Extra calcium and the use of fertilizers containing ammonium may offer some protection. Verticillium Wilt sometimes causes leaves to turn yellow, dry up and never appear to wilt. Verticillium wilt is caused by a soil-borne fungus and may affect many different vegetables. The fungus can persist in the soil for many years, so crop rotation and selection of resistant varieties is crucial. This disease may be characterized by wilting during the hottest part of the day and recovering at night, yellowing and eventually browning between the leaf veins starting with the older, lower leaves and discoloration inside the stems. Verticillium Wilt inhibits the plants ability to take in water and nutrients and eventually kills the plant. Verticillium wilt is more pronounced in cool weather. This disease may be managed by removing affected plants and by choosing resistant varieties. Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Harvesting and Storage Tomatoes are mature when they reach their mature color. Keep a close eye on the unripe tomatoes once the first ripe tomato has been seen on a tomato plant. The rest will follow soon after. Green tomatoes may be harvested when the tomatoes reach their mature size but havent changed color. Harvest tomatoes often and remove all over ripe tomatoes from the bed. Harvest by clipping the tomatoes from their vines. If harvesting of immature tomatoes is inevitable, place unripened tomatoes on newspaper in a cool, dark room. The tomatoes will continue to mature. Tomatoes are cleaned either by dipping the fruits in plain water or by wiping individual fruits by hands with a clean, soft cloth. Ripe tomatoes stored at room temperature will last 4-7 days. For longer storage life, keep tomatoes at 620 to 68F with a relative humidity of 90% to 95%. Use forced-air cooling for tomatoes going to market. Do not store tomatoes in a refrigerator as the cold will alter the tomato flavor. Tomatoes are very sensitive to ethylene gas so do not store tomatoes with vegetables and fruits that give off ethylene gas such as apples and pears. There is still no Philippine national standard for sorting and grading for tomatoes. Sorting and grading practices vary in the different supply and demand areas. Classification is based on size and ripeness. Packing materials that may be used include wooden crates (25-kg capacity); bamboo baskets (kaing -60-80 kg capacity and bakag 20-25 kg capacity). Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture
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Where to get seedlings: Seeds World Tel: (02) 365-4292 Mobile: 0921-8034343, 0906-2905774, 0906-4914655, 0908-4204883, 0928-3152162 Email: frugalsale@gmail.com Web: www.QUINOAhouse.com/frugal.html, http://sulit.com.ph/1317489

Author: Carmela Abaygay, Marid Digest, photo from ilocano.org

Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture

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Tomato Growing Season Starts February

February is the beginning of the Philippines Tomato growing season. Below is a simple step by step program for growing sweet and a high yield harvest of tomato's. Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Tomato's Step 1 Buy tomato plants at the nursery for planting or start tomato seeds with Nutriplant SD seed germination powder. Tomato's Step 2 Choose a growing location that gets plenty of sun and has a preferred soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0. If your soil is too acidic or alkaline, use lime or dolomite lime to bring the soil pH back to neutral of 6.0 to 7.0 for best soil growing conditions. Crushed eggshells help in doing this also. Tomato's Step 3 Treat the soil with plenty of compost raw organic materials as possible. Tomatoes like rich soil of organic matter for maximum yield and sweetness. Tomato's Step 4 Once the tomato seedlings have leaves, move the tomato seedlings to the planting area for planting. Tomato's Step 5 Dig a hole the size of a basketball for each plant. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of crushed eggshells for needed calcium to each hole.
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Tomato's Step 6 Set the plants 12 to 18 inches apart depending on variety. See the seed packet or plant label for separation length. Plant them deeply up to the fourth branch from the top to encourage new root development. Tomato's Step 7 Try to make sure the tomato plants get between one and two inches of water every week, along with spraying them with Nutriplant AG Fertilizerand Apsa80 Adjuvant 1 week after plant, at fruit pre-bloom, and at fruit set. Tomato's Step 8 Pick the tomatoes when their color is glossy and even, and their texture midway between soft and firm. Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture

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TOMATO
Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Introduction Tomato, scientifically known as Lycopersicum esculentum Miller is an important and popular vegetable grown in many parts of the world. The fruit is used as an ingredient in many food preparations and is regarded as one of the most profitable crops for off-season production, preferably from May to September.

Recommended Varieties Tomato varieties are classified according to their growth habit such as indeterminate or determinate type. The indeterminate type develops new stems from axillary bud in the leaf subtending the inflorescence with continued growth of internodal inflorescence every 3rd to 4th leaf with sequential maturity depending on the type variety and management, prolonging the harvesting period. The determinate type is bushy with an inflorescence limited only to 4-6 leaves and the next buds are developed slowly if not aborted restricting the prolific flowering resulting in shorter production period. The characteristics of tomato varieties recommended for production are shown in Table 1. The fruits of Apollo, Cherry and Magilas are shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1. a) Apollo b) Cherry and c) Magilas.

Photo courtesy of Research Office RET CLSU

Table 1. Characteristics of recommended varieties of tomato. Variety Apollo for fresh market Magilas for
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Days to Productive Yield harvesting period (t/ha) Color (DAT) (months) 35 30 2-3 1-2 30 30 7

Fruit Size Shape Type

Reaction Planting to pests season and diseases Dry season Dry and TMV-MR bacterial wilt-MR Dumping

Red Medium oblong Determinate orange large Pink large oblong Determinate

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fresh

red Red Medium Semi oblong orange Large determinate Red Medium Semi oblong orange large determinate Red Medium round orange

wet season Dry and wet season Wet season

off-R wiltR TMV-R BacterialR wilt-R TMV-R Bacterial wilt-R TMV-R Wilt R TMV -MR

Atlas (F1)

40

2-3

40

Atlas(rafted) 40 (kamlong) Cherry 50

2-3

40

4-5

40

Dry and Indeterminate wet season

TMV Tomato Mosaic Virus. MR Moderately resistant; R - resistant Kishore Hemlani Philippines agriculture Site Selection Choose a part of the farm that is slightly elevated and has good drainage to avoid water logging in case a flash flood occurs during the wet season. For dry season planting, make a catchment with a canal directed into it to drain excess water after each irrigation schedule. Choose a sandy loam or clay loam soil with a pH of 5.5-8.0. Growing Season Tomato can be grown anytime of the year. In hilly areas, plant tomato from September to January. For lowlands, plant from November to February. Grow off-season type and grafted tomatoes (kamlong) from May to September for bigger profit.

Land Preparation With a carabao drawn implement, plow and harrow the area once and twice if the soil is not in good tilt. Then set furrows at a distance of 100 cm before transplanting the indeterminate type or semi-viny. For determinate type with bushy growth habit set at 75 cm distance between furrows.

Crop Establishment There are two methods of seedling production: the use of seedbed and seedling trays. 1. Seedbed method

For 1000 m2 tomato production, use one seedbed measuring 1 x 10 m so that seedlings will not be overcrowded, thereby producing seedlings with bigger stems. Cover the seedbed with 3-5 cm thick rice hull and then burn completely to minimize the incidence of pre-emergence damping-off on the seedlings. 8 Philippine Government Agriculture

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Mix 10 kg compost and 100 g complete fertilizer and incorporate these evenly into the seedbed. Sow the seeds in small shallow furrows at 20-30 g/10 m2. Cover the seeds lightly with fine soil. Dust the surroundings of the seedbed with Sevin SP to control ants, and spray 1 tbsp of Vitigran Blue per gallon of water to avoid infection of damping-off. To ensure uniform germination of the seeds, saturate the seedbed with water for the first three days using sprinkler until the seeds emerge.

To avoid succulent stem, regulate watering as soon as the seedlings have emerged. For the seedlings to have a good start, apply urea at a rate of 1 tbsp/gal of water at 7-14 days after emergence (DAE). Sprinkle water on the seedlings using a sprinkler (regador) immediately after applying the fertilizer to avoid burning effect on the leaves. Drench the seedbeds with Vitigran Blue at the rate of 1 tbsp/gal of water once damping-off is observed.

To produce hard seedlings, water the seedbed only when plants show temporary wilting (this can be observed in the morning) and repeat regularly starting at 14 DAE until the seedlings are ready for transplanting, which is at 25-30 DAE. Water the seedbeds thoroughly before pulling the seedlings for transplanting to minimize root damage.

2. Seedling tray method

Seedling tray method (Fig. 2) needs only 100 g seeds/ha or 10 g for 1000 m2. Plant the seeds singly in each hole of the tray intended for seedlings with potting medium (Fig.2a) available at seed stores, or bake garden soil for 2 hours. When cooled, mix the garden soil, fine sand and compost at the ratio of 3:1:1. Drop 2-3 grains of 14-14-14 in each hole (Fig. 2b) before filling with the soil mixture. Care and maintenance of seedlings (Fig. 2c) is the same as in seedbed, but transplanting shock is minimized in tray method.

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Figure 2. a) potting medium b) seedlings trays ready for planting c) seedling trays with germinated seedlings.

Photos courtesy of Dr. A. C. Roxas.

3. Transplanting

For wet season planting, use one month old seedlings because these are harder, taller, and can withstand the impact of rain. Transplant seedlings at a spacing of 0.50 m between hills and 1.0 m or 0.75 m on rows or furrow right after irrigation water run in the furrows. For dry season, transplant 25-day-old seedlings.

To avoid breaking the stem of seedlings during transplanting on irrigated furrows, hold the roots with the thumb and forefinger then push towards the soil at 3-5 cm deep depending on the length of the stem. For an area of 1000 m2, transplant the seedlings on the right side of the furrows for the first half of the area. For the next half, transplant on the left side of the furrows. For easier off-barring, use a carabao-drawn plow.

For seedlings in trays, transplant each seedling together with the soil medium from the tray using the same planting distance and method of transplanting as in seedbed method. If grafted tomato will be used, transplant the seedlings 3 cm deep to the hole and cover firmly with light soil. Do not cover the grafted part to avoid infection. Support the transplanted seedlings with trellis.

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Nutrient Management Broadcast chicken manure or organic fertilizer before land preparation or at final harrowing to fully incorporate the fertilizer into the soil (Table 2). Apply 14-14-14 at transplanting so that seedlings will be healthy and vigorous before flowering. Delayed application will result in weaker plants and smaller fruits. Side dress using urea mixed with muriate of potash (0-0-60) for higher fruit setting, and to prolong the fruiting period of the crop. Table 2. Fertilizer requirement for tomato production. Kind of Fertilizer Chicken manure or Organic fertilizer 14-14-14 Urea+0-0-60 250 kg (125 g/plant) 25 kg (125 g/plant) 15 kg 15 kg 15 g/plant Rate of Application per ha 1000m2) 500 kg (250 g/plant) Time of Application before plowing or final harrowing At transplanting 21 days after transplanting (DAT) (at 3rd irrigation) Basal/broadcast Basal Side dress Method of Application Basal/broadcast

Source: Gajete, T.D. et. al 2004

Water Management 1. Four to five irrigations are needed from transplanting to 14 days before the last harvest depending on the type of soil. Tomato is very sensitive to flooding; hence, irrigation must be done just to moisten the root zone especially during the onset of flowering up to the last harvest.

2. The following irrigation schedule must be followed for a 1000 m2 area:

o o o o o

First : during transplanting (flooding) or hand watering Second : 14 DAT (flooding) or hand watering Third : at vegetative stage (21 DAT), water at 1 L/hill. Fourth : at flowering and early fruiting (30 DAT) water at 1 L/hill. Fifth : optional, depending on the appearance of the plants at harvesting stage (hand water if necessary)

3. Irrigate by furrow (quick passing) to minimize soil erosion and to favor high fruit setting. Waterlogging for 24 hours will favor the occurrence of wilt diseases and reduce fruit setting. In the absence of surface irrigation, water the plants weekly at the rate of 1 L/hill until two weeks before the last harvest.

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4. For tomato with plastic mulch, water twice a week for the whole crop duration.

Pest Management Insect pests and diseases of tomato are managed by using chemical, biological, and remedial measures. Most of the pests and diseases of tomato are common throughout the year except thrips and whiteflies, which are present only during dry season starting in January, declining in May and ending in June or July depending on the arrival of rain. The farmer or any amateur grower may try the suggested biological and remedial measures in managing the insect pests and diseases as presented in Table 3. In case of pest outbreaks, the use of chemical pesticides as shown in Table 4 is the last resort.

Insect Pests 1. 28-spotted beetle (Epilachna philippinensis) This is a small beetle (Figure 3a) with brownish yellow forewings dotted with 28 black spots. Both adults and larvae are destructive by feeding on the leaves of tomato and other solanaceous crops. They feed by scraping the surface of the leaves until it has been skeletonized.

2. Fruit worm (Heliothis armigera.) The polyphagous larva (Figure. 3b) of this insect feed on corn, tobacco, cotton and other vegetables. In tomato, the larva damages the fruit at any stage of growth rendering it non-marketable.

3. Aphids (Aphis gossypii) The insect pest (Figure. 3c) attacks tomato, cotton, and other crops by sucking the sap of the leaves and stem of the plant. It can also transmit (vector) cucumber mosaic virus. Severe infestation of aphids results in the accumulation of their sweet and sticky substances on the infested plant parts, which serve as a medium for the growth of black molds that block the photosynthetic activity of the leaves. It is the aphids secret toxic substances that result in curling of the shoots and dwarfing of the internodes of tomato. This symptom reduces the plants reproductive potentials.

4. White fly (Bemicia tabaci) This white fly (Figure. 3d) is a serious pest of tomato that attacks the plant by sucking the sap of the leaves. It also acts as a vector of tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV) that causes yellowing and curling of tomato leaves resulting in stunted plants with aborted flower and fewer fruits.

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Figure 3. a) 28 spotted beetle adult and larvae b) Tomato fruit worm c) Aphids and d) White Flies. Photos a&b from East West Seed Company, c&d

from: http:/ / w w w .ipm .ucdavis.edu/ andhttp:/ / w w w .gardenforum .dem on.co.uk /

5. Thrips (Frankiniella occidentalis) are minute pests that suck the leaves of the tomato. It is a vector of tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) that reduces yield.

Diseases 1. Tomato mosaic Virus (TMW) - This virus causes mosaic pattern on the leaves of tomato coupled with curling of the young leaves and shoots (Fig. 4a). Most of the varieties are tolerant to tomato mosaic virus and are capable of bearing fruits throughout their life span but are not prolific as the healthy plant. The disease is seed-borne.

2. Late blight is caused by the fungus. Phytophthora infestans (Montagne) de Bary. The symptoms are seen as brown spots on the older leaves with yellowish advancing lesion. Under favorable condition the symptom progress to upper leaves, stems and fruits (Fig.4b) of the plant. The advance stage of the disease is seen as a whitish growth on the fruit. The disease can be transmitted by mechanical means while the growth and development of this fungus is favored by a moist and cooler condition of the environment. Under severe infection, the plant may succumb to death.

3. Bacterial wilt The causal organism is Pseudomonas solanacearum that infects tomato and other solanaceous crops. The pathogen is either soil-borne or seed-borne. It invades the roots of tomato then progresses to the vascular bundle where it interferes with the translocation of nutrients and water. Advanced symptom is browning of the inner parts of the stem (Figure. 4c), wilting of the plant before it dies.

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4. Bacterial spot - is caused by Xanthomonas campestris var. vesicatoria an agent of bacterial spot, which is characterized by a sunken irregular brown spots on the fruits, stems, and leaves of tomato (Fig. 4d). Fruits infected with bacterial spots are considered non-marketable. The disease is common during wet season planting and is transmitted through the seeds. Weeds are some of the alternate hosts of this bacterium, which becomes latent after the cropping period.

Figure 4. a) Tomato Mosaic Virus b) Late blight c) Bacterial wilt and d) Bacterial spot of tomato. Photos

from http:/ / w w w .avrdc.org/

5. Root knot nematode - This parasitic nematode (Melodogyne incognita) attacks the roots of tomato that results in the formation of knots and galls on the roots. Infected tomato become susceptible to other root disease. Above ground symptoms shows stunting of the plant with moderate wilting as that of water stress.

6. Fusarium Wilt the fungus Fusarium oxysporum is the causal agent of the fungal wilt of tomato. The pathogen is soil-borne with the similar symptom with that of bacterial wilt. The only difference is the presence of white mycelia (thread-like) that grow on the infected part of the plant.

7. Early blight Alternaria solani (Ell. and G. Martin) Sor. This fungus incites the symptom of early blight in tomato. This fungus is prevalent during the cool months of the year, infecting the leaves, stems and aboveground parts of the plant. The symptom appears as target-like spots on the leaves. At fruiting stage, infected fruit shows numerous irregular spots and the disease can cause high yield loss if not immediately controlled

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8. Powdery mildew - is caused by the fungus Leveillula taurica (Lev) Arnaud. The symptom is like a white talcum powder on the surface and undersurface of the leaves. The growth and development is favored by warm condition of the environment with low humidity. The profuse powdery growth of the organism covers the surface of the leaves and other parts causing the leaves to become yellowish then turns brown and die.

9. Leaf mold - The causal organism of this disease is Cladosporium fulvum Cooke. It is characterized by brownish spots with molds on the under surface of the leaves and later coalesce into blight. During severe infections, the leaves turn brown and die resulting in reduced flowering and fruiting span of the plant.

10. Blossom end rot - The primary symptom of this physiological disorder (Figure 5) is calcium deficiency, which is characterized by dry rot with water-soaked appearance at the blossom end of the immature fruits, It later enlarges and turns into papery or leathery sunken brown to black rot upon infection of saprophytic fungi (secondary symptom). Fruits with end rots are non marketable.

Figure 5. Blossom end rot of tomato.

Photo from East West Seed Company

Table 3. Biological and remedial control of pests and diseases of tomato. Insect pest and diseases A.) Insect pest: fruitworms/cutworms Suggested management To control worms at fruiting stage, spray neem seed extract at 200-300 ml/16 L or hot pepper fruit extract 100-200 ml/16 L. For cutworm, spray before twilight. Spray with Thuricide HP or Dipel (Bacillus thuringiensis) following manufacturers recommended dosage. These are bacterial pesticides

To drove other pests spray 100-200 ml pure tubai leaf extract/16 L of water on 28 spotted beatle, mites, the plants alternate it with spraying karot tuber extract (100-200 ml tuber extract leafhoppers, whitefly/thrips per 16 L water). Do it twice a week.
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Puff smoke on the crop twice a week during the whole growing period. For thrips, mites, leafhopper and white fly, practice overhead irrigation. For thrips use blue sticky trap, for whitefly use yellow sticky trap. B) Diseases: Leaf spot To control these disease spray the leaves with zinc oxide power at 2-3 tbsp/16 L water (with 1 tbsp sticker during wet season). Spray decoction of serpentina 10ml extract per 16 L water. Treat the seeds with Centella asiatica (takip kuhol) decoction at 45C to 50 C for 2-5 minutes. Uproot infected plants and burn outside the area. Drench infected soil with 5% solution of zonrox then expose to sunlight. Avoid surface irrigation. Do not cultivate or touch infected plants as this will transfer the pathogens to other plants. If possible, hand water the plants early in the morning or late in the afternoon with 1 L/plant every week at vegetative stage and 2 L/plant every two weeks at fruiting stage for clay loam soil. To prevent this disease, spray a decoction of guava, star apple and avocado (done by boiling 1 kg leaves of each in 3 gallons of water for 5 minutes). For stronger concentration, restore 1 gallon decoction to 16 L water with 1 tbsp sticker. Spray on leaves and fruits of tomato once a week. Minimal infection if grown after rice. Practice good drainage and use large dose of organic manure. Spray Cassia alata (Andadasi or Acapulco) leaf extract at the rate of 1 L leaf extract/16 L water with sticker then spray vigorously on leaves and whole plants. For severe infection, spray a ratio of 1:1 leaf extract to water twice a week until the fruiting stage. As a disinfectant and as a preventive measure, spray 16 ml zonrox per/6 L of water or 1tbsp baking soda/16 L of water on the whole plant once a week. Burn infected plant residues after harvest. Plant tomato after rice and plant other crops after tomato (crop rotation). Plant resistant varieties. Plant 1 month old marigold seedlings as intercrop two weeks before transplanting of tomato. Plant resistant varieties. Spray Acapulco leaf extract. Spray Acapulco leaf extract alternate with serpentine decoction. Spray the plants with nutrients high in calcium at flowering stage. Or spray the plant with fresh malunggay leaf extract at a ratio of 1:4 malunggay extract to water. Or spray with decoction of seaweeds, decoction of burned sea shells, crabs and shrimps skeletons (1:10 shells to water).

Fungal wilt/bacterial wilt

Bacterial spot

Powdery mildew

Leaf mold Nematode Early Blight Late Blight Blossom rot

Sources: Colting, L. M., et al, 2003; Farmers/Gardeners Practices

Table 4. Chemical control of insect pests and diseases of tomato. Insect Pests and Diseases A. Insect Pests
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Suggested Pesticides Common Name Product Name

Rate Application (tbsp/16 L water)

When and How to Apply

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Aphids 28-spotted beetle Thrips

Methomyl

Lannete 40 SP Provin 85 WP Lannate 40 SP Decis R

4.0-8.0

Sevin 85 S 4.0-6.0 Carbaryl 4.0-6.0 4.0-8.0 1.5-2.5 Spray any of the insecticides as soon as insect infestation is observed. Repeat spraying at 7-10 days interval or depending on level of insect population.

Methomyl Deltametrin Fruit worm Lambdacyhalothrin Carbaryl Thiamethoxan Triazophos B.Diseases Powdery mildew, Early & late blight/Leaf spot Chlorathalonil Mancozeb Metalaxyl

Karate 2.5 1.0-1.5 EC Provin 85 WP Actara 25 WG Hercules 4.0-6.0 1.5-2.0 4.0-6.0 Spray as soon as symptoms are observed. Repeat at 7-10 days depending on level of infection.

Whiteflies

Daconil 75 4.0-6.0 WP Dithane M-45 4.0-6.0

Ridomil 6.0-10.0 MZ 58 WP Vitigran Blue 35 WP

Spray as soon as symptoms are observed. Repeat at 7-10 days depending on level of infection.

Bacterial spot Bacterial wilt

Copper oxychloride

4.0-6.0

Spray when the first cluster is well formed. Repeat if required. Treat the seeds with 5% lime solution than subject to 50C for two hours; air dry the seeds before sowing.

Source: Gajete, T.D. et. al 2004

Weeding By using a carabao-drawn plow or hand hoe, cultivate in between rows of plants by off barring at 14-21 DAT. Hill-up at 28-35 DAT. Spot-weed at the surrounding of the seedlings after each off-barring and hilling-up if there are standing weeds. If plastic mulch is available, mulch the area before transplanting.

Harvest Management Harvest fruits intended for future use at matured green stage at 1-2 months during rainy season. Matured green fruits gradually ripen in one month at room temperature. Frequent harvesting sustains the production of more fruits. For immediate use, harvest the fruits at breaker pink stage. These will fully ripen within three days at ambient temperature but can be slowed when stored in a refrigerated condition.

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References: Production and Management of tomato. July 7, 2008. Open Academy for Philippine Agriculture.http://www.openacademy.ph/.

TECHNOLOGY OPTION 1 Seedbed Preparation 1. Make seedbed 50 cm apart with any convenient length in an area fully exposed to sunlight 2. Pulverize the soil thoroughly and add compost or dried animal manure at the rate of 5 kg per sq meter. 3. Sterilize the soil by burning rice straw or rice hull on top of the seedbed for 4-5 hours to kill soil-bon pathogens. 4. Drench the seedbed with fungicide-insecticide solution. 5. To protect the seedlings from heavy rains, place plastic roofing. Sowing 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Wet the seedbed thoroughly before sowing. Make horizontal rows 5cm apart. Sow 80-100 seeds in every 50 cm row (150-200 g of seeds are needed per hectare). Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil and place rice straw mulch. Water the seedbed daily (seedlings start to emerge 3-6 days from sowing).

Care of Seedlings 1. 3-5 days fater germination, prick the seedlings by transferring them into a tray or seedbox to allow more space between seedlings and prevent damping-off. In the absence of seedling tray or seedbox, use paper pots (rolled), lukong or rolled banana leaves, and plastic bags. 2. Plant the seedlings in a soil mixture consisting of garden soil, compost (or well decomposed animal manure, and rice hull in a 2:3:1 ratio). If possible, sterilize the soil mixture by baking or through steam. 3. Drench the newly pricked seedlings with fungicide solution to prevent damping-off. If insect appears, spray the seedlings with appropriate insecticide. 4. For large scale production, use seedbed. In this case, pricking is not done. Instead, thinning is done to allow more space between seedlings. 5. A week after pricking or thinning, apply starter solution (2 tbsp Ammonium Phosphate (16-20-0) or 1414-14 dissolved in 1 gal water). 6. A foliar fertilizer may also be used. 7. 1 week before transplanting, harden the seedlings by gradually reducing the amount and frequency of watering until the seedlings experience temporary wilting. Land Preparation 1. Plow and harrow the soil twice. 2. Make furrows distanced at 0.75-1 meter for determinate and semi-determinate varieties and 1.5 m for indeterminate varieties. 3. Place 500g compost or dried manure per hill if the soil is not fertile. Transplanting
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1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Select healthy seedlings with 3-5 leaves 3-4 weeks after seedling emergence. Transplant 2-3 seedlings per hill spaced 40 cm apart. Transplant in the afternoon. Press the soil gently around the base of the seedlings. Water immediately. Replant missing hills 5-7 days after transplanting.

Trellising 1. Trellising is recommended in growing semi-determinate and indeterminate varieties. 2. Use bamboo or ipil-ipil poles as post. 3. Tie the branches to the post and train the vines using plastic straw. Nutrient Management 1. 1-2 days before planting, apply 20 g 14-14-14 per hill and mix it thoroughly with the soil. 2. 3-4 weeks after transplanting, mix 2 parts of Urea (46-0-0) with 1 part Muriate of Potash (0-0-60) and apply 1 tbsp (10g) of the mixture 6-8cm away from the base of the plants in bands (first sidedressing). 3. Apply another 1 tbsp of the mixed fertilizer two weeks later (second sidedressing). Water Management Depending on the weather and soil, water the plants once a week until early fruiting stage. Pests Management Pest 1. Use Trichogramma chilonis or botanical insecticides like native hot pepper. 2. Use insecticide only if necessary. Diseases 1. If the disease is caused by a fungus, spray with fungicide and remove the damaged leaves. 2. If the disease is caused by a virus and bacteria, pull-out, bury or burn the whole plant immediately to prevent its spread to other healthy plants Weeding 1. Remove the weeds near the base of the plants before the first sidedressing. 2. Off-bar and hill-up the soil to prevent the weeds. 3. Mulch with rice straw during dry season. For large plantation, mulch with black plastic. Mulching also conserves soil moisture. Harvest Management 1. Harvest mature green or pink-blushed fruits early in the morning 2. Place the harvest in bamboo crates lined with banana leaves or used newspaper to prevent mechanical damage to the fruits. 3. Avoid over- or under- packing. 4. Remove bruised and damaged fruits. 5. Pack together fruits with similar maturity in one container.
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Seed Production Harvesting Harvest fruits that have reddish streaks to fully red ripe stage. Seed Processing 1. Cut fruits in half and squeeze out the seed with the juice into a container. Allow mixture to ferment 1-2 days or easier removal of mucilaginous seed coat. 2. Dip a fine-holed strainer and rub seeds gently into the strainer to remove the coating. 3. Put the seeds in a pail of water to allow immature seeds to float. Discard water together with the floated seeds leaving the good seeds that settled at the bottom of the pail. Repeat the procedure until no floats can be found. 4. Put seeds in a net bag and air dry them for 2-3 days before sun drying for 4-5 days. Increase the sun drying time as the seeds dry. For oven drying, dry seeds initially to no more than 30C, and increase it to 40C as the seeds dry. 5. For dry sealed packaging, dry the seeds to 8% moisture content. Packaging 1. Dry seed absorb moisture from the air. Use moisture resistant packaging materials such as thick polyethylene plastic, aluminum foil, tin cans, or glass jars. Seal well. 2. Seeds can be packed in paper packets but must be placed in large tin cans or wide-mouth glass jars with desiccants (charcoal, silica gel, calcium chloride, quick lime, or wood ash) at the bottom. 3. Cover tightly. Storage Keep seeds away from moisture and high temperature. The cooler and drier the area, the longer the life of the seeds. Proper Handling Tomato is a perishable crop which deteriorates rapidly if not properly handled. Some tips to preserve the freshness and lengthen the storage life of the fruits are as follows: a. Harvest fruits at the right stage of maturity. If intended for fresh market and long distance shipment, harvest at the mature-green stage; for processing purposes, harvest at the red-ripe stage. REASON: Harvesting of immature fruits results in irregularly ripened and poor quality fruits while picking beyond the optimum stage of maturity renders them unsuitable for long-distance shipment.

b. Pick tomatoes during the cooler times of the day, usually at dawn. If it is necessary to harvest up to noon time, keep the harvested fruits in a shaded area soon after picking. REASON: During this time, temperature is low thus, metabolic processes are slowed down. At noon time, the temperature is high and exposure of the fruits to the sun will increase fruit temperature which hastens weight loss and ripening.

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c. Avoid harvesting during rainy days. REASON: Rain water accumulated on the stems favors growth and development of disease-causing microorganisms.

d. Avoid wounding the fruit when harvesting. REASON: Injuries incurred during harvesting serve as avenue for entry of microorganisms, hasten water loss and speed up the ripening process.

e. Avoid dropping the fruits into the harvesting containers or when transferring them to the collecting crates. REASON: Impact bruises on the commodity can result in non-visible symptoms of deterioration manifested internally as brown to black discoloration in the seed area.

f.

Avoid over and under packing; allow enough spaces after shaking the containers. REASON: Over-filled or loosely-packed containers will have a high percentage of injured fruits.

g. Line the crates with newspaper or thin pin-pricked polyethylene bag. REASON: Liners protect the fruits from mechanical injury while pin-pricked polyethylene bags regulate ripening.

h. Pack only clean, disease-, insect- and injury-free tomatoes. REASON: Diseased fruits may infect sound ones while injured commodities are readily infected and ripen faster.

i.

Have a uniform stage of ripeness within the pack. REASON: Ripening fruits produce ethylene which causes faster ripening of green ones.

j.

Use crates with smooth inner sides. REASON: Rough inner sides cause bruising of fruits during transport.

k. Arrange containers with enough spaces to allow air circulation during transport. REASON: Free air circulation will prevent over-heating and will also allow free gas exchange between the commodity and the environment.

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l.

Be careful when loading and unloading the containers. REASON: Careless loading and unloading aggravate compression and abrasion damage.

m. Store ripe fruits separately from unripe ones. REASON: Ripe fruits give off ethylene which hastens the ripening of unripe ones.

n. Delay the ripening of green-mature fruits by keeping them in pin-pricked, (0.05 mm) polyethylene bags for six days at ambient condition. REASON: The high carbon dioxide and low oxygen inside the polyethylene bag delay ripening.

o. Store green-mature fruits (in small amounts) in moist sawdust. REASON: The high relative humidity and relatively low temperature attained with sawdust storage minimize weight loss. References: Fliers. Tomato. September 2008. Institute of Plant Breeding, University of the Philippines, Los Baos, Laguna. Package of Technology of Different Vegetable Crops: Technology Generation and Dissemination for the Growth and Development of Vegetable Industry.2005.DA-RFU 4A& Bureau of Agricultural Research, Diliman Quezon City.

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Agri Plain Talk

Cherry tomato has excellent potential

By ZAC B. SARIAN December 28, 2011, 3:08pm

MANILA, Philippines One possible new project for enterprising agribusiness people is growing cherry tomato. Not so many Filipino farmers are familiar with this miniature tomato whose fruits are about the size of most seedless grapes. While the market is not well developed in the Philippines yet, it is possible to develop a viable market if there is available supply and consumers are made aware of the health benefits of eating cherry tomatoes. In most developed countries like Taiwan, the United States and Europe, cherry tomato is now a popular fare. It is often used in salads. In upscale hotels, cherry tomato is served during breakfast together with other fruits and vegetables. Cherry tomato is also often included in meals served in airplanes. By itself it can be eaten fresh for snacks. It can be eaten like seedless grapes. While the cherry tomato is still little known to many farmers in the Philippines, there are now a few who are discovering the potential of this crop. Toto Barcelona of Harbest Agribusiness tells us that Rolly Vinusa of Sison, Pangasinan, is getting excited about the money-making possibilities of this small tomato variety. He has been growing two varieties from KnownYou in the open field and has been getting a good harvest. Vinusa has told Toto that one buyer would like to have a steady supply of 800 kilos a week. As of now, however, he can only supply a small volume. But he will be planting more soon. Ex-farm, Rolly is selling his harvest at P80 per kilo. It is, however, retailed at P110 to P140 per kilo. Thats much higher than the price of the ordinary variety. In Taiwan it is already a popular fare and there are farmers who are making money growing the same. There are many varieties that come in bright red, yellow and orange colors. Most of these are the result of breeding by Known-You Seed Company, the biggest seed firm in Taiwan. We interviewed a farmer, Huang Guo Tsun, from Neimen district of Kaohsiung City who used to grow leafy vegetables but would only grow cherry tomatoes today. He was the pioneer in planting cherry tomatoes in his community starting eight years ago. He does not need a big area to produce a big income. In fact, in one place he is only planting 2,500 square meters of rented land near where lives. This small area which he planted to 1,760 hills last September 10 is giving him an income that could be more than the revenue from 10 hectares of riceland.
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Huang loves cherry tomatoes for a number of good reasons. For one, cherry tomatoes are very prolific and they have a long productive life. They can be productive for as long as six months if they are given proper care. On a bad crop, harvesting could last only 60 days. Even then, that could already be profitable. Once harvesting starts three months after sowing, harvesting is done every day as in the case of Huang Guo Tsuns plantation. From his 2,500-square meter plantation, he currently harvests at least 60 to as much as 180 kilos a day. The current price is about NT$700 per box of 6 to 7 kilos. Thats about P1,100 per box or P157 per kilo in Philippine money. Five workers are picking the ripe fruits daily, receiving NT$800 each per day of work. Thats equivalent to about P1,250 in Philippine money. Although labor is costly, the margin is still very significant. Say he averages a hundred kilos per day, the gross revenue per day would be the equivalent of about P15,700. Huang grows his tomatoes in the open. Because the varieties are indeterminate (they grow very tall), they are supported by trellis using steel pipes for the posts. The trellis is quite expensive but then it could last for 10 croppings. There are many cherry tomato hybrids produced by Known-You. The favorites of Huang are Amber and Nova. Amber is red like grapes while Nova is orange. Both are sweeter than other cherry varieties. Huang knows how to maintain the sweetness of his cherry tomatoes. If the fruits are not as sweet as he wants them to be, he fertilizes his plants with more phosphorus and potassium. He also withholds irrigation for a few days. Whats good is that there are Known-You technicians who are teaching the farmers like him how to grow their crops, whether it is cherry tomatoes or some other vegetables. Can Filipino farmers grow cherry tomatoes, too? The few who have tried it have shown they can. What is important is to create more awareness of the advantages of this small tomato variety so that there will be a bigger production and market. More people should learn to eat this kind of tomato. AANI FARM TOUR ON JANUARY 14 AANI is organizing a farm tour to Carmen, Rosales in Pangasinan on Saturday, January 14, 2012. The attendees will be able to attend the Techno Forum at the Harbest Training Farm where the Agri-Kapihan in Pangasinan will also be launched. At the Techno Forum, there will be a discussion on the use of EM or Effective Microorganism in agriculture and aquaculture. There will be demonstrations on the use of small tractor in preparing land for vegetable production, lecture on the benefits of the drip irrigation that incorporates fertilizer, a demo of a powerful shredder, and a visit to the demo farm that is planted to 400 varieties of high-value crops from Known-You Seed Co. At the Agri-Kapihan, we will share success stories of farmers we have met in the Philippines and abroad.

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LEARN TO PLANT TOMATOES

This planting guide is most applicable to a region who has a dry and wet season especially in the Philippines. But in general, this guidelines is helpful to those beginners who have no idea on how planting of tomatoes be done. Tomatoes is more favorable in dry climate with less rainfall. So try this planting guide, it will help you.

Tomato can be grown in all types of soil. Best in sandy loam to clay loam soil especially if the soil is fertile, well-drained, has a good drainage system, friable soil and free from soil-borne diseases. Tomato is a warm season plants. The only threat to the growth of this crop is excessive rainfall and extreme heat. When temperature is high and have a relative humidity, it can decrease yield. It develop more leaves and lesser formation of fruits. Due to instability, the flowers can easily drop and reduce the development of fruits. It is also prone to the growth of more diseases. The soil should not be too moist to avoid the presence of soil-borne organism that will multiply in this condition. Heavy rain is a threat to the development of the flower. But most of tomatoes can handle a moderate dry season. It can be propagated by seeds or cuttings. Using seedlings are more preferable. Raise it in a seed boxes or bed seeding in a dimension of 40cmx35cmx7cm. Use a fertile soil in equal parts of sand, compost and ordinary soil. The purpose of putting up sand is to absorb air and drain any excess moisture. Using compost can make the soil more fertile. With the addition of using garden soil, it can hold the plants upright and the roots can hold more in the soil. Seeds should be treated first with fungicides and insecticides to prevent harmful organisms that can affect the germination of the seeds. Sow the seeds thinly in the seed boxes. Placed it in furrows to allow a uniform distribution of seeds. Cover with fine sand, and press it to prevent exposure during the watering of the soil. It is a must to water the seedboxes twice a day, morning and afternoon. To have enough moisture to the soil for the early and fast development of the seeds. Germination usually occur 4 to 8 days after it was sown. The germinated seedlings can be watered only every 2 to 3 days to avoid fungus attack. Protect the roots during transplanting. It can be done by means of blocking, 9 days before the transfer of the seedling to the prepared planting area. One way is by hardening. Expose it to strong sunlight especially those seedlings that are being shaded in the seed boxes. It can also be done by withholding the watering of the plants before transplanting. Be sure not to wilt the plants prior to transplanting. By postponing, it can slow the growth of plants. The tissues become thicker and harder. The purpose is for rapid recovery of the seedlings during the transplanting activities. This is to allow less mortality. Prepare the area normally. Plow and harrow the soil properly. Allow time, about 6 days for weed seeds to decompose. This will allow the weed seeds to germinate. Plow and harrow again for the second time by doing it cross-wise to bury decomposing weeds. Then allow another 7 days before the final harrowing and plowing in preparation to transplanting. Put manure and compost to the soil before the final plowing to allow any organic matter to mix with the soil. When the seedling are already 3 to 4 weeks old, apply starter solution of fertilizer and water it 6 days before transplanting. A day before the transplanting, water the seedboxes thoroughly to allow easy pull-out of seedlings without damaging the root system.
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Irrigate the field after transplanting. Transplanting can be done in the late afternoon to avoid shocks due to the heat of the sun. Space the plant 40 cm between hills and 85 cm between rows. Use 235kg of nitrogen, 120kg of phosphorus and 90 kg of potassium in one hectare. Use chicken dung as additional fertilization to give the soil the needed nutrients for the growth of the plants. Do watering as often as needed. Water is vital to plant growth and development especially if the rainy season is behind schedule. This is also to avoid retarded growth of the plants. Irrigate the plants during flowering stage until the fruits are fully develop. At the same, time irrigate the field before the harvest to avoid rupturing the fruits.

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