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TALLINN
April - May 2011

Fashion Extravaganza
Estonias hot design scene

Most complete guide to the city

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Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving
Getting here is half the fun 7 8 12 14 21 24
Check out our extensive fashion feature on page 20. This is a photo from Liina Viiras latest collection.

The Basics
Helpful things everyone should know

History
Learn it, or youre doomed to repeat it

Culture & Events

Concerts, art galleries, cinema and more

Sightseeing
Old Town The medieval centre in a nutshell Sightseeing tours By bus, by bike or on skates 64 66

Fashion Extravaganza
Estonias designers are sew hot

Where to stay
A bed for every budget

Dining & Nightlife

Where to eat From sushi to slt Cafs The hottest places in the caffeine scene 32 52

Museums 68 Covering city history, from mines to marzipan Kadriorg Stroll in Tallinns most beautiful park 73 74

Interactive Tallinn
Take action

Nightlife 54 Where to pick up or not pick something up

Transport & Communication

Getting around Navigating Tallinn and travelling onward Mail & Phones Phone home, log on or send a postcard 76 81 82

Shopping
Cool souvenirs and fashion purchases

Directory
Business Lifestyle Health Officials 88 90 91 92 93 95 96 98 April - May 2011

Maps & index

Street register Old Town map City map Index

Foreword
Ah, springtime in Tallinn. Youll be thrilled to know that April and May in this 857-year-old city are actually quite pleasant, weather wise. The sun is already getting quite warm, there isnt usually much rain to speak of, the blossoms and leaves start to make their appearance and the patio furniture slowly folds out onto the cobblestone streets of Old Town. This is especially true on Town Hall Square, where thirsty tourists and sun-starved locals alike clamour for a seat in the warm embrace of our long-lost solar friend. Indeed, spring here comes in like a lamb, but the sheer volume of events and activities are rather more lion-like in appearance over the next couple of months. Especially this year, as Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture for 2011. Weve got most of the official Capital of Culture events divided between our Culture section and the Tallinn 2011 Programme pages following. We didnt have enough space to list them all, but they can be viewed in their entirety at www.tallinn2011.ee/eng or you can link to them from our website or iPhone app. If you count yourself among the fashion victims of the world or perhaps are just looking to pick up something stylish and interesting while in Tallinn, be sure to check out our Fashion Extravaganza feature dedicated to all things fashionable. Our main focus is on local talent, but you can find an extensive list of international boutiques, as well as Estonian designers in our editorial (see p.20). Always remember that this is just a guide, we try our best to provide as accurate information as possible by print time. Our experiences may differ from your experiences and if you feel we were way off the mark, please do let us know.

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Cover story
One of the design sensations to spring forth from Tallinn recently is BonBon Lingerie. Featured on the cover of this edition of T allinn In Your Pocket and coinciding with our fashion feature is this lovely, bubble-blowing blonde sporting a fun and colorful design from Bon Bon. Photo courtesy BonBon.

In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brac and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Nis) and in Switzerland (Zurich). A new guide to Minsk, Belarus, will be the next In Your Pocket to launch, early in the summer. We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright O Linnajuht 1997-2011. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Tallinn In Your Pocket Vana-Viru 4, Tallinn 10111 Estonia tel./fax +372 644 64 70 advertising tel. +372 631 33 50 tallinn@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1406-2690 O Linnajuht Printed by Reusner, Tallinn Published six times per year 10,000 - 13,000 copies

Editorial Editor In Chief Nat A. Singer Contributor Steve Roman Researcher Irja Luks Layout & Design Kllike JohannsonSinger Photography Kllike Johannson-Singer, Nat A. Singer Sales & Circulation General /Ad Manager Kllike Johannson Singer Sales & Circulation Marek Prn Advertising Sales Irja Luks, Marek Prn Publisher O Linnajuht Cover Photo: Heiki Laan 2011

Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Thelepanu, tegemist on alkoholiga. Alkohol vib kahjustada teie tervist.

Ohrainen sato. Koskenkorvan kylst.

Made in Finland.
Koskenkorvan viina, sen jokainen viljaviinan pisara ihan viimeiseen asti, tulee Koskenkorvan kylst. Sit tekevt ihmiset tunnetaan nimelt ja jokainen siihen kytetty ohrajyv voidaan jljitt lhes nelimetrin tarkkuudella. Koskenkorva on alusta asti sit mit lupaa: puhdasta, suomalaista viinaa. Tee kuten Joutsenlippu liputa aidon suomalaisuuden puolesta.

Koskenkorvan kylst.

a Few words ...

Foundation Tallinn 2011 welcomes you to the city!
In 2011 as the European Capital of Culture, Tallinn has an unparalleled opportunity to showcase the diversity and distinctiveness of Estonias folk and contemporary culture and the contribution we have made as a nation to Europes shared culture. We have been hard at work preparing for this opportunity, and will be using our stories of the seashore to present those with an interest in our culture with snapshots of Tallinn past, present and future. These stories have arisen from the words and actions of the people who live here, many of them passed down through the generations. Telling these stories are not only leading figures from the Estonian cultural scene who have made a name for themselves in the world, but also those just setting out on their cultural journey. The very richness of culture is expressed by the ties between generations and the ability to maintain and reinforce them, after all. We want people to take something away from their experiences during our year as Capital of Culture that will see them wanting to come back to Tallinn again and again, and discover more and more about Estonia each time. We might live in a small country, but it has a wealth of history and innovative ideas to offer. Culture is constantly developing, and in that sense there is nothing finite about the Capital of Culture 2011 is something of an interim report on what Tallinn is doing to preserve and further Estonias cultural traditions and to create and develop a multicultural environment. It is said that culture represents a different way of being. As such, it is ever-evolving, in much the same way as Tallinn itself. Were sure that all of the initiatives that spread their wings in 2011 will take flight in the progressive cultural environment the year of culture creates, with all of the opportunities it presents. And the sustainability of culture is one of the cornerstones of a nations survival. Culture is born through dialogue, which is why we hope that in addition to taking part in Capital of Culture events, our visitors, from near and far alike, will help to open up our cultural environment even more with their own ideas and actions, and bring with them to Tallinn their own experience in fostering culture. See you in Tallinn! Jaanus Mutli Member of the management board of Tallinn 2011

Press Box
Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city. The Guardian You do not even need to pack a guidebook: just pick up an In Your Pocket when you arrive. Simon Calder The Independent & LBC Radio In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks. The New York Times Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on both well-known and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated. The Independent The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers. The Irish Times With so many European cities now within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks. The Times In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publishers website. Sueddeutsche Zeitung The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have become a European publishing phenomenon. International Herald Tribune

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arriving
As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away.

By plane
Tallinn's airport may be a super-modern affair, but it's so small you're never in danger of getting lost. Once past the luggage receiving area, you'll find ATMs and currency exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental offices are downstairs. Getting to town A taxi from the airport should cost roughly 8. The more frugal can take bus N2, which leaves every 20 - 30 minutes from in front of the arrivals hall, to the centre of town, i.e. the A. Laikmaa stop next to the Viru Hotel/shopping centre. A ticket from the driver costs 1.60, and the ride takes nine minutes.

By bus
Buses arrive at the bus station (autobussijaam), (H-4), just off the main highway from Tartu, but Eurolines passengers coming in from Riga or Vilnius should strongly consider hopping off at the much more central Viru vljak stop (ask other passengers where), rather than continuing on to the bus station itself. Once at the station, you'll find left luggage in the basement. The cash-only currency exchange takes all major currencies, including Russian roubles, but gives appallingly bad rates. The ATM by the main entrance is probably a better bet. Getting to town The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tnav from behind the station. Buses N17A, 23 and 23A leave directly from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse vljak (4th stop) in the centre, while trams N2 and 4 run from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru vljak (4th stop), also in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about 5.75.

By ship
Most ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port (reisisadam), terminals A, B and C. Left Luggage and a helpful tourist information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always economical. ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located just across the small neck of water, has similar services, but no tourist information. Lindaline's boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall Speedboat Harbour, where a currency exchange booth is open whenever boats are arriving. Rates here are decent. Getting to town You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover the short ride to town for 3.80 - 4.50.

By train
Arriving by train at Tallinn's Balti Jaam (B-1) puts you just a couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. Since renovations the station itself is no longer a Soviet-era relic and now includes a nice restaurant and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just off the breezeway that leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left luggage) offers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors. Getting to town: Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tnav into Old Town, or take trams N1 or 2 from behind the station three stops to the Mere pst. stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here.

By car
Crossing the border from Latvia is completely hassle-free now that the Baltics belong to Schengen. Getting over the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both cases, be sure to bring your car's registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card. You can also buy insurance right at the border station. Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h, in the cities 50 km/h, unless otherwise noted, and the headlights have to be always turned on. For fares and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden, contact the ferry companies in the Getting around' section of this guide.

Taxi rip-offs
Tallinn's taxis are notorious for overcharging - even the mayor got ripped off! (Granted, he was, pretending to be an Italian tourist at the time.) Drivers either set high mileage rates or fix their meters to run at light speed. There's no sure-fire way to avoid the cheats. but there are precautions you can take. Get to know the average rates, and try to order a taxi by phone, rather than getting one off the street. Turn to the Getting around' section for phone numbers and fare details. Barring that, you can ask the driver for an estimate of how much the ride will be beforehand. Also see Arriving' for estimates of how much rides should cost from the bus station, airport, etc. To report a cheat, call the 24-hour hotline, tel. 1345.

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BasiCs
Basic data
Tallinn
Population: 407,951 (as of 01.03.2010) Density: 2,518.4 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 52.3%, Russians 38.5%, Ukrainians 3.9%, Others 5.3% Population: 1,340,021 (as of 01.01.2010) Density: 31 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 71.8%, Russians 21.6%, Ukrainians 2.1%, Byelorussians 1.2%, Finns 0.8%, Others 2.5% Territory: 45,227km2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Baltics) is Suur Munamgi (318m) in Vru County Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Lakes: Lake Peipsi, on the Russian border, covers an area of 3,555km2, of which 1,529km2 is in Estonia. It also holds the title as the 4th largest lake in Europe. Rivers: Estonias longest rivers are the Vhandu 162km, Prnu 144km, and Pltsamaa 135km. Other cities: Tartu 101,169, Narva 68,680, KohtlaJrve 47,679, Prnu 45,500 Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.

Estonia

Borders
Until 1998, Estonia stood staunchly by the conviction that its border with Russia was set by the Tartu Peace Treaty of 1920. In reality, however, border controls have been maintained along the line unilaterally set by Russia in 1991. Estonia and Russia initialled a border agreement on March 5, 1998, ceding the disputed territory to Russia and now that Estonia belongs to the European Union, its border with Russia is also the border between the EU and Russia. Schengen border zone - Estonia belongs to the Schengen visa area, which includes 22 EU countries, Norway and Iceland. It means that if you are travelling to Estonia from within the Schengen border controlfree area, you will not be required to show any documentation when you arrive in Estonia, whether it be by ship, plane or by car. In fact you will not have to go through customs at all, but each individual country still maintains the right to perform intermittent checks. Of course if you arrive in Estonia from outside the Schengen zone you will still be required to show your passport or EU identity card if applicable. For more information on Schengen and how it might apply to your trip to Estonia, logon to the Estonian Foreign Ministry's website at www.vm.ee.

Customs
European alcoholics rejoice! When you leave Estonia headed to another EU country, you can take out as much booze as you can carry (or convince inspectors is for your personal use). Coming into Estonia from another EU country, each individual aged 18 and over may carry in duty-free 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer and 10 litres of hard alcohol (over 21%alc/vol), 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars and 1kg of pure tobacco. When leaving, beware of stricter tobacco restrictions if you're headed to the UK, Sweden or Finland. Relatively unlucky travellers from non-EU countries can carry in a measly 4 litres of wine (not exceeding 175 in combined value), 2 litres of beverages up to 21%alc/vol and 1 litre of hard alcohol; 40 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 50g pure tobacco. How much booze and smokes you can take home depends on your own country's restrictions. For more information, contact the Customs Department, Narva mnt. 9j, tel. 880 08 14, tolliinfo@emta.ee, www.emta.ee.

Market values
Here is a list of daily necessities, depending on the kind of day you're having... (prices in euros and US dollars): 1kg of beef 8.88 $ 12.33 1kg of potatoes 0.40 $ 0.56 10 eggs 1.40 $ 1.94 Mars bar 0.45 $ 0.62 McDonald's Big Mac 2.11 $ 2.93 Loaf of white bread 0.50 $ 0.69 Litre of Estonian vodka 14.00 $ 19.43 Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 0.90 $ 1.25 20 Marlboros 2.75 $ 3.82 Mid-range dinner for two 22.38 $ 31.06 Exchange rates (as of March 15, 2011): $1 = 1.338; 1 = 0.867; 1 = 112.39.

Getting cash
You should have no problems filling your wallet in Tallinn - cash machines (ATMs) are never hard to find. Big banks are usually your best bet for exchanging currency. At night and on weekends, however, decent exchanges are more elusive. Tavid at Aia 5 has good rates and also runs an all-night exchange window that will do in a pinch. Their night rates aren't as good as what they are during the daytime. Beware of bright blue and yellow Monex exchanges around town. These have convenient locations and working hours, but generally give unfavourable rates and even charge a 3.20 - 6.40 commission on each transaction.

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BasiCs
National holidays
January 1 New Years Day February 24 Independence Day (1918) April 22 (2011) Good Friday April 24 (2011) Easter Sunday May 1 May Day June 23 Victory Day (1919 Battle of Vnnu - Csis) June 24 St. Johns Day (Midsummer) August 20 Day of Restoration of Independence (1991) December 24 Christmas Eve December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Boxing Day

Religion Language
Confused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely unrelated to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any other Indo-European tongue. Along with Finnish and Hungarian, Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages, thought to have originated somewhere beyond the Urals thousands of years ago. Luckily, the younger generation and those in the tourist industry speak English. You can find some words and phrases on the opposite page. Some locals will tell you that Estonians are all tree-worshiping pagans at heart, but the truth is that this isn't a very religious country at all. There is no state religion, and according to the 2000 census, only 31.8% of the population claims any religious affiliation. Of those that do, about 180,000 are Lutheran and 170,000 Russian Orthodox.

Tax free shopping

'Tax-free' shopping is finally starting to gain popularity in Estonia and if you are a non-EU resident and plan to spend over 38 on electronics, clothing or even souvenirs - it just might be worth trying to claim the tax back. When making a purchase just present your passport, ask for a tax-free stamp on your receipt and take receipts along with unused purchases to the customs office at the airport or border-crossings into Russia when you leave the country. At the airport, anything checked into luggage will need to be claimed at Customs before you enter the security gates, items in your hand luggage can be claimed from the Customs booth between gates 5 and 7. Visit www.globalrefund.com for more details.

Money
As of January 1, 2011 Estonia joined the common European currency, good news for all of the tourists who visit Estonia from countries that already use the Euro. If you happen to come from a country that does not use the Euro, it should also be easier to change your money before you arrive as most banks around the world stock this currency. Standard Euro denominations are legal tender, however you may find it difficult to pay with any bills over 100. All ATMs operate on international systems. Credit cards are easy to use - major hotels, most restaurants and a pretty much all downtown shops accept Visa, Mastercard and EC. American Express, Globus and Diner's Club are less common.

Visas
Estonia is in the European Union and lucky citizens can conveniently enter the country with just a national ID card. All others need valid passports. You can enter Estonia visa-free and stay 90 days if you're a citizen of any EU country, Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Argentina, South Korea and a number of other countries listed on the website below. All others, including South Africans, Russians, Byelorussians and Ukrainians do need a visa to come to Estonia. Because of the Schengen Border Treaty, anyone requiring a visa for Schengen countries only need to obtain a visa from one of these countries in order to visit Estonia. Anyone staying in Estonia for more than 90 days (180 days for UK citizens) needs either a residents permit or a visa, though there are certain very specific exceptions for EU citizens. For all the details, contact the consular department of the Foreign Ministry, tel. 631 74 40, or check their website, www.vm.ee, which has more information than you'll ever need.

Public toilets
Study your geometry to avoid an embarrassing situation: A triangle pointing down signifies the men's room (M or Meeste), while the triangle pointing up is the women's room (N or Naiste). Visitors with pressing needs won't be left with their legs crossed, as there are quite a few public toilets around the city. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (C-3) and there's a Swedish-built automatic WC on Toompea Hill (C1), nicknamed locally the million-crown toilet' due to the public outcry at its construction bill. It can be found next to the Nevski Cathedral (C/D-1). There's also a few new high-tech, self-cleaning ones around the city. The most central is right next to Tammsaare Park (C-3), and others can be found at; Toompark near Balti Jaam (B-1), Police Garden (H-3, on Gonsiori street), Kanuti Garden (B-4), Piiskopi Garden (C-1) and in Kadriorg next to the Roheline aas Street parking lot (H-4). However, the fear of being trapped inside may deter the more easily frightened, no matter how badly they need to pee'.

Urgent care
The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. 697 11 45, can provide treatment advice in English, and if need be, direct you to the appropriate hospital. If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try the round-the-clock Tnisme pharmacy (see pharmacies). For dramatic situations that require an ambulance, call tel. 112. Emergency operators speak English.

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BasiCs
Tourist information points
Tallinn Traveller Info C-2, Vana-Posti 2, tel. (+372)
55 54 21 11, tallinn@traveller.ee, www.traveller.ee. Just steps from the 'official' tourist information office, this alternative tourist information point is run by local young people for travellers of all ages. It has the inside scoop on what's happening each night on the entertainment scene, where the locals like to eat and which hostels have vacancies as well as some groovy, cheap tours (see 'Sightseeing' section). They've also got free internet access, a funky Tallinn map and can assist you in booking ferry passage, accommodations and so much more. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

11

Tourist Information Centre in Old Town C-2,

Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 645 77 77, fax (+372) 645 77 78, turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee, www.tourism.tallinn.ee. The city's official tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From May open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat -Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

One Card
for Everything
FREE
admission to TOP CITY ATTRACTIONS city sightseeing tour unlimited use of public transport offers for entertainment all-inclusive guidebook

Tourist Information Centre in Viru Shopping Centre C-4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 610 15

57/(+372) 610 15 58, fax (+372) 610 15 59, turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee, www.tourism.tallinn.ee. A scaled-down version of the above, this one stays open later. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Estonianisms
Noh... Well.../Um... This sounds like No, but actually just means the speaker is temporarily tongue-tied On ju? Eks ju? Right? Isnt it? Two interjections that punctuate Estonian speech Head isu! Bon appetit! ...or Good Appetite, as you will sometimes hear Jtku leiba! May there be enough bread! begins a meal. The polite answer is... Jtku tarvis. Its needed. Judu tle! Power to your work! Expression of goodwill, used when you come upon someone hard at work Judu tarvis Power needed The formulaic answer Tervist! Lit. Health! Ole tubli! Gesundheit!/Bless you! Take care, be good!

DISCOUNTS
on sightseeing tours in restaurants, pubs and cafs in handicraft, art and design shops on leisure activities Tallinn Card is available for 6, 24, 48 and 72 hours at Tourist Information Centres and hotels. Prices 12-40.

Kuidas ksi kib? How are you? Lit. How does the hand go? Ikka kib Still goin Typically laconic Estonian reply

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Listietoja:

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history
Estonia through the ages
3,000BC
Finno-Ugric tribes arrive from the east and settle along the north Baltic coast, mixing with Neolithic tribes.

Tallinns founding legend

Stick around Tallinn long enough and youre bound to hear the name Kalev bandied about. There are countless Kalev sports teams and theres even a Kalev brand of chocolate. But just who was this Kalev person? Kalev is in fact a mythical giant from Tallinns distant past who is credited with founding the city. As the story goes, Kalev was sailing the seas looking for a spot to land and establish a kingdom. Eventually a prophecy led him to what is now Estonias capital. Upon Kalevs death, his wife Linda was so stricken with grief that she over-did his burial mound, piling enough stones on his grave to form Toompea hill, which to this day looms over Old Town. When the contentious Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral was built on the hill at the beginning of the 20th century, a rumour was spread that Kalevs ghost would haunt anyone who interfered with the construction. Nobody did. Arguably an even more important figure in the Estonian tradition is Kalevs son, Kalevipoeg. Tales of Kalevipoegs adventures were set down in the form of an epic poem of the same name by Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald and published in 1857. At the time Estonia was undergoing a literary and cultural awakening, and Kalevipoeg became both a focal point for national identity and a major step in founding an Estonian literary tradition.

1st Century

Roman historian Tacitus writes of a local tribe called Aestii.

12th Century

In 1154, Arab cartographer al-Idrisi marks Tallinn on his map as Koluvan, describing it as a seasonal stronghold - the first mention of the city in historic records.

13th Century

In 1202 the Pope calls for a crusade against the pagans around the Baltic Sea. Bishop Albert founds the Order of the Knights of the Sword. This leads to four decades of bloody battles and shifting alliances among the Germans (based in Riga), Danes, Swedes, Russians, Lithuanians and local tribes. In 1219 King Voldemar II of Denmark takes the stronghold of the north Estonian Rvala people as a base for his forces (hence the name Tallinn: Taani = Danish, linn = city). German merchants settle the town, and in 1248 are granted the right to use Lbeck Law, effectively making Tallinn an autonomous entity. In the 1280s, Tallinn joins the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities.

14th Century

Estonian towns become important trading links between East and West and grow in size and strength. Ethnic Estonians, however, remain serfs while German landowners reap the benefits. The bloody St Georges Night Uprising of 1343 convinces the Danish King to sell his provinces to the German Knights two years later.

16th Century

Estonians suffer another bout of shifting borders and imposed military service during the Livonian War (15581583). Ivan the Terrible advances claims on Estonia. Denmark and Poland enter the fray, but Sweden quickly gains control of the territory. Intermittent warfare with Poland lasts into the next century.

The first republic

Estonia takes advantage of the chaos in Russia caused by WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution, declaring independence on February 24, 1918. But by the end of February, Germany takes the infant country by force. When Germany capitulates in November Red forces move in. The War for Independence lasts 13 months. In the Tartu Peace Treaty, signed February 2, 1920, Soviet Russia renounces claims to the territory for all time. In 1921 the Republic of Estonia is accepted into the League of Nations. Reforms progress quickly and social welfare laws are on a par with those in Europe. A political crisis in the mid-1930s brings the young republic to the verge of authoritarianism. President Konstantin Pts bans political parties and restricts civil rights but maintains popular support.

17th Century

The Swedish period in Estonian history is marked by cultural advancement. Tartu University opens in 1632 and by the close of the century nearly every parish has a school. In 1645 Denmark cedes Saaremaa to Sweden, joining Estonia under a single force for the first time.

18th Century

Sweden battles Russia, Denmark and Poland in the Northern War (1700-1721), losing Estonia to Russia in 1710. During the 200 years of tsarist rule that follow, Estonias peasants live in the same conditions of near-slavery as the serfs of Russia. In 1739 the Bible is published in Estonian.

World War II
On August 23, 1939, the USSR and Germany sign the MolotovRibbentrop pact, in which secret protocols carve Eastern Europe into spheres of influence. On June 16, 1940, the USSR accuses the Baltic states of aggression and demands the right to occupy them. Elections take place July 14 - 15, with Soviet-approved candidates. The phoney parliament applies for admittance to the USSR, which is granted August 6. WWII continues to rage across Europe and by the end of 1941 the Nazis win Estonia from the Soviets. The German occupation lasts three years. Soviet forces begin air attacks March 15, 1942, and cause serious damage in the infamous attack of March 9, 1944. By September the Germans have fled. Estonia is declared a Republic again on September 18, but Soviet forces reach Tallinn four days later.

19th Century

So-called Estophiles study the local language and found consciousness-raising societies. Literacy spreads and Estonian-language periodicals appear. The second half of the century is marked by the National Awakening: the formation of a national consciousness among Estonians and an active period of scholarship and literary creation. The first song festival, held in Tartu in 1869, represents the first public demonstration of Estonian national identity. Tsar Alexander III stifles this when he comes to the throne in 1881, initiating a period of intense Russification.

Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

history
Soviet occupation
In the first years of the renewed Soviet regime, 36,000 Estonians are arrested and accused of aiding the Nazis. At the same time 30,000 - 35,000 people flee to the woods to resist the regime as Forest Brothers. In the years following, Estonia endures political repression and isolation, while Estonians who had fled to the West try to keep their culture alive in exile. During the post-Stalin period, life in Estonia takes on a bureaucratic routine similar to that found elsewhere in the USSR. Over the coming decades, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Russians are sent to live in the Estonian territory. In the 1970s and 80s, Finnish TV broadcasts give Tallinn residents a glimpse of life in the West.

13

A new republic
1992
After prices rose by 629% in 1991, the government introduces ration coupons. June 20 The Estonian kroon becomes the first national currency introduced in the former Soviet Union.

1994

September 28 852 people perish when the 15,000-tonne ferry Estonia sinks en route to Stockholm.

1998 1999

March 31 EU begins accession talks with Estonia. November 13 Estonia becomes the 135th member of the World Trade Organization (WTO).

1956

Surviving Estonians who had been deported to Siberia are allowed to return.

1977

February 24 The blue-black-white flag rises illegally over the Vanemuine Theatre in Tartu to mark the 59th anniversary of the first Estonian Republic.

2004

March 29 Estonia joins NATO. May 1 Estonia becomes an EU member as the bloc expands to encompass ten new states.

1980

July 19-August 3 Moscow Olympic Games. Tallinns Olympic yachting centre, Pirita and Olmpia hotels and airport terminal are built for the occasion.

2007

Road to independence
1987
What had started as a series of environmental protests quickly develops into a new National Awakening as demonstrations against the system become more open.

April 26 - 27 Street riots, mainly involving young, ethnic Russians, break out after protests over the relocation of a Soviet Army monument from the city centre. December 21 Estonia joins Schengen.

2009

June 22 The Freedom Monument is unveiled.

2011

January 1 Estonia joins the common European currency.

1988

June 10-14 Over 100,000 people a night pack the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. The events of the summer are henceforth known as the Singing Revolution. September 11 More than 300,000 Estonians gather at the Song Grounds and hear Trivimi Velliste make the first public demand for independence. November 16 In a move known as the beginning of the end for the Soviet Union, the Supreme Soviet of the Estonian SSR passes a declaration of sovereignty.

Key phrases
Hello Goodbye Please Thank you Excuse me Yes No Zero One Two Three Four Five Six Seven Eight Nine Ten Hundred Thousand Push (on a door) Pull (on a door) Where is... ? How much does ... cost? Bon appetit! One beer, please! Cheers! Whats your name? You have beautiful eyes. Will you marry me? Tere Head aega Palun Aith Vabandust Jah Ei Null ks Kaks Kolm Neli Viis Kuus Seitse Kaheksa heksa Kmme Sada Tuhat Lkka Tmba Kus asub...? Kui palju maksab... Head isu! Palun ks lu! Terviseks! Mis sinu nimi on? Sul on ilusad silmad. Kas sa abielluks minuga?

1989

February 24 The Estonian flag is raised over Tallinn, inciting protests and massive strikes. August 23 Two million people join hands along the 600km road between Tallinn and Vilnius to mark the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. November 12 The Estonian Supreme Soviet nullifies Estonias entry into the USSR.

1990

March 23 The Estonian Communist Party declares independence from the central party. May 8 The ESSR is officially renamed the Republic of Estonia, despite not yet having declared independence.

1991

March 3 78% of voters cast their vote for independence in a referendum. August 19 During the failed Moscow coup, additional Soviet military units are moved to Estonia from Pskov, Russia. August 20 Estonia declares independence. August 23 Lenins statue comes down in Tallinn. August 24 Russia recognises Estonian independence.

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2011

14

Culture & events

While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple art-house cinemas. If you noticed that the events listed here are a little on the light side, thats because so many events this year fall under the realm of the European Capital of Culture 2011 and so weve dedicated two pages to list events from the official Tallinn 2011 programme, starting on page 16. If youre still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee.

A Strange Hour with Alan Wilder & Paul Kendall Recoil show May 08, Rock Caf (p.56), www.

recoil.co.uk, www.rockcafe.ee. In what most certainly is the longest project in recent music history, former Depeche Mode member Alan Wilder brings his Recoil project to Estonia. A classically trained musician, Wilder was a member of the acclaimed band for 14 years and is largely credited with the success of their hit Enjoy the Silence from the Violator album - his last with the band. Joining him on this limited engagement tour is Paul Kendall, an electronica guru, producer and sound mixer who has worked with many of the top talents in this field. This should be a fantastic show for fans of the genre.

Main events

Guano Apes April 16, Rock

Museum night 2011 Treasure in the Night

Cafe (p.56), www.piletilevi. ee. Hailing from Germany and full of energy after their reunification in 2009 and a fantastic reception at some huge festivals in 2009 - the Apes have just recorded their first album since 2005 and are pumped to be on the road again. In case you dont know what to expect, theyre alternative, rocky, nu-metaly and put on a supercharged show. Certainly worth checking out.

locations, www.pot.ee. Everything, as they say, has gone to Pot. You can take what you want from that statement but regardless of what we think... POT is dedicated to new works, to artists who have a vision of the world, and to viewers who dare to challenge their own vision of the world. Theater, music, dance, film and all possible combinations of the aforementioned POT is a cosmopolitan urban festival that dissects the various facets of performing arts. We couldnt have said it better ourselves.

Tallinn Performing Arts Festival POT April 20 - May 06, various

May 14, Museums and other institutions all around Tallinn, www.oo.muuseum. ee. Once a year, on a Saturday evening in May, museums and other institutions stay open later and offer free admission. Museum Night has a different motto each year, and due to Tallinn being the European Capital of Culture, this years theme is Treasure in the Night. Ancient sunken and buried treasures are today mostly safe in museums, but treasure is more than just gold and silver coins it can also consist of cultural heritage in the broader sense. The goal of Museum Night is to offer people the chance to discover and rediscover these cultural values on one special night.

Maailmakla - World Village Festival May 19 - 28,

Pirita Convent Ruins (p.73), www.maailmakyla.ee. As it turns out the world is a village after all. Maailmakla (World Village) brings listeners future music from thousands of years ago. Music with roots, passion and momentum. Sounds and voices of home delicate and sensitive, wild and primal, ancient and contemporary. Music from the sea and from beyond the mountains. Songs that expand our horizons, create connections between things that at first seem unrelated, and teach us to notice the little details. See website for ticket prices and lineup.

Jazzkaar 2011 April 20 - 30, various locations, www.

KUMU Night May 20, Kumu Art Museum (p.15), www.

jazzkaar.ee. The biggest international jazz event of the year will pull in performers from 17 countries, even as far away as from as far away as Brazil and Cameroon. Forty plus concerts will take place in Tallinn. The main highlights of this years festival are the highly acclaimed do anything with his voice Bobby McFerrin (USA), the legendary and soulful Talvin Singh (India), the crazy and free-form Punkt concertc (Norway and Estonia) and the French/Cuban Mayra Andrade with her beautiful vocals. Joining these and other international talents are a host of Estonian jazz artists, all with their own take on this popular genre.

musiccase.ee, www.ekm.ee/kumu. For one night a year, Kumu Art Museum is transformed into a club, concert hall, cinema and meeting place, full of fun and music. This cultural event for the alert will integrate innovative music with the architectural environment of Kumu, while audiences will see and hear the latest bands from Estonia and abroad. In the past five years, artists such as Jamie Lidell, Jah Wobble, Jimi Tenor, Wildbirds&Peacedrums, the Orb, Mugison and many Estonian artists, as well as a rooftop cinema and elevator bar, have provided highlights.

Old Thomas Tallinn Trophy April 22 - 24, Saku

Youth Winds Fest brass spring festival Vivat Brass! May 25 - 29, Tallinn Town Hall, Estonian

Suurhall (p.15) www.tallinntrophy.org. In what shall be the biggest dance sport event in the history of Estonia, the newly formed Old Thomas Trophy will certainly wow audiences with talented dancers. The most important competition of this dance event will be the IDSF Professional Division Championship in Standard, which is an open competition for world topclass dancers and this event will be held on April 23rd. The competition is open to professional dancers from around the world and two couples will be allowed to represent each country. Expect a lot of tans, big white smiles, extravagant outfits and neck-breaking twists.

Academy of Music and Theatre chamber hall, open air concerts & St. Johns Church, www.musicstudio.ee, www.puhkpy.ee. Youth Winds Fest is a new festival aimed at young people and as the name suggests it showcases - wind instrument performances. The schedule melds the influences of musical styles and line-ups from various eras, as well as interesting venues: glamorous baroque in the Town Hall performed by a brass band and trumpet solo, spiritual music in churches, choral music and jazz in the Old Town, and joint performances with guest stars from around Europe.

Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Culture & events

Tallinn Treff Festival 2010 May
28 - June 01, various locations in Tallinn, www.nuku.ee/eng/treff. Brought to you by the silly folks over at the Estonian Puppet Theatre (Eesti Nukuteater) and also part of the Old Town Days, Treff, which means meet in a couple of languages actually, will truly be fun for the whole family. Expect a whole lot of workshops, several villages worth of puppets, crazy costumes and more than a few interesting meets, but probably and unfortunately - no dirty dancing. There will however be Penosil sculptures all around the city, thats got to be worth something.

15

Cinemas
Tallinn's cinemas are fairly central, and all films except kids' films are shown in their original language with Estonian subtitles. You can always find out what's playing by calling the 1182 infoline. Operators speak English.

5D Cinema H/I-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Centre), tel.

NEW

Tickets you say?

Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletilevi C-4, Viru Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 44, www. piletilevi.ee. Ticketpro, D/E-3/4, Solaris Centre, Estonia pst. 9, tel. 624 80 32, www.ticketpro.ee. Estonia's major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in Tallinn at E-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 00, fax 614 77 09, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee.

(+372) 507 46 50, info@5dcinema.ee, www.5dcinema. ee. An overload for the senses, the only 5D cinema in Tallinn has moving seats, 3-D effects, scents and even the occasional water misting. We can only imagine what a porn film might be like here - if we were only the types who watched such filthy films that is.QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Tickets 4 - 6. LKW

Artis D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, (Solaris Centre), tel.

(+372) 663 13 80, info@kino.ee, kassa@efsa.ee, www.kino.ee. Tallinn's two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent films, Estonian productions, shorts and kids' films. Tickets 4.20 - 4.80. Q Show times vary, see website for details. J

Major art museums

Kadriorg Palace - Art Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 37,
tel. (+372) 606 64 00/(+372) 606 64 03, kadriorg@ekm. ee, www.ekm.ee. You could easily say that Peter the Great's spectacular Northern Baroque palace is a work of art in and of itself, but the palace is also home to Estonia's museum of foreign art. Paintings by 16th- 18th-century Dutch, German, Italian and masters, as well as 18th - 19th-century Russian works make up most of what's on display. Intriguing examples of sculpture, porcelain and glass can also be found here. May 07 - October 02: Russian Orthodox Icons in Estonia. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. From May open Tue-Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Wedn 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4.20. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 4.80.

Coca-Cola Plaza G-3, Hobujaama 5, tel. (+372) 1182,

info@forumcinemas.ee, www.forumcinemas.ee. This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most people's first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now even featuring a 3D theatre. Tickets for evening shows cost 4.10, 3D - 5.70.

Solaris Cinema D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9, tel. (+372)

16105, info@solariskino.ee, www.solariskino.ee. Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most state of the art cinema in Tallinn. Tickets for evening shows cost 4.15, 3D - 5.75. Q J

Concert halls
Estonia Concert Hall D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372) 614 77 60, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee. The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Sun open 1 hr before scheduled concerts. Estonian National Opera D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372)
683 12 14/(+372) 683 12 15, info@opera.ee, www.opera.ee. Tallinn's pride and joy hosts opera, ballet and frequent performances by internationally-renowned guests. Tickets cost up to 31.32. Q Box office open 11:00 - 19:00.

Kumu G-5, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602 60

00/(+372) 602 61 23, muuseum@ekm.ee, www.ekm. ee. Winning the title 'European Museum of the Year 2008' , Estonia's largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia's past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Through April 17: Mapping. Hits from the Ljubljana Biennal of Graphic Arts. Through May 04: For Love not Money. May 13 - September 25: gateways. Art and Networked Culture. Through June 05: The Colours of Light. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. From May open: Tue-Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibition 4.20, contemporary art 2.60, all exhibitions 5.50.

Niguliste Museum-Concert Hall C-2, Niguliste 3,

tel. (+372) 631 43 30, niguliste@ekm.ee, www.ekm. ee. Organ music concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. For more on this 13th-century Gothic church, see What to see. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.20. J

Tallinn Art Hall & Gallery (Tallinna Kunstihoone)

D-2, Vabaduse vljak 6, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, info@kunstihoone.ee, www.kunstihoone.ee. Drop into this imposing 1930s-era building on Vabaduse square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall's separate, smaller gallery (where admission is free) next door at Vabaduse vljak 8 hosts separate exhibitions. Through April 30: Andres Tali. April 08 - May 01: Enn Tegova. May 07 - June 26: Unspoken Stories: The Queer and the Political. May 05 - June 12: Jean Charles Hue. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2.50.

Nokia Concert Hall D/E-3/4, Estonia pst.9, tel. (+372)

615 51 11, info@tallinnconcerthall.com, www.tallinnconcerthall.com. Tallinn now has a world-class concert hall, complete with a stunning sound system and high-tech gadgetry. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. J

Saku Suurhall Paldiski mnt 104b, tel. (+372) 626 11

11/(+372) 660 02 00, sakusuurhall@sakusuurhall.ee, www.sakusuurhall.ee. Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events.

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2011

Here are the ocial events of the European Capital of Culture: Tallinn 2011. As there are so many events we didn't quite have the space to t them all. Some of the bigger events can be found on p.12 and the complete list is available in PDF format from www. tallinn2011.ee/eng.

Punkt Tallinn opening of Jazzkaar 2011

music / jazz / international / improvisation / Norway Place: House of the Black Heads Date: 2021 April 2011 www.jazzkaar.ee, www.punktfestival.no

Cinema in the city

lm / city space / surprise / dream / relaxation Place: Around Tallinn Date: MarchNovember 2011 A rooftop cinema or open-air movie theatre on a roof terrace in the heart of the city is a place that is the product of creative souls and dedicated lm fans. e rooftop cinema brings fans an incomparable cinema experience in a unique environment now, up on the Tallinn skyline, you can see a selection of quality lms ranging from timeless and cult classics to the latest releases. www.katusekino.ee

e Norwegian Punkt festival has garnered worldwide fame due to its special concept: concerts are followed by freeform interpretations of the music a live remix in which both the audience and musicians can participate. Performing at the House of the Black Heads will be Punkt founders Jan Bang and Erik Honor, Norwegian musicians Sidsel Endresen and Eivind Aarset and several Estonian performers.

Jazzkaar in the city

music / improvisation / city space / international / youth Place: Tallinn city space Date: 20 30 April 2011 www.jazzkaar.ee is is an improvisational city space project that got o to a successful start in April 2010 as part of International Jazz Month. Every day, two to four improvisational concerts will be performed in a public space a park, street, plaza or elsewhere. A joint public concert will be held on 30 April 2011.

International children's literature day masked parade in Tallinn's old Town

childrens literature / parade / children / homemade art / masks Place: Beginning at Admiralty Inlet and winding its way through the Old Town Date: 2 April 2011 www.eltk.ee 2 April is Childrens Literature Day. A large procession of masks will take place in Tallinns Old Town, with hundreds of children from dierent parts of Estonia wearing masks inspired by their favourite literary heroes.

Easter celebrations and spring fair at the Open Air Museum

families / international visitors / students / companies / folk culture / tradition / values Place: Estonian Open Air Museum Date: 24 April 2011 www.evm.ee Easter, which goes by many names in Estonia, should not be missed, and probably cant be. e arrival of spring is also greeted with painted eggs, the call of willow pipes and the squeaking of traditional swings, delicious holiday treats and the joyous hubbub of the spring fair.

NO99 Straw

contemporary theatre / music / performance / international cooperation / new structure / installation / public space Place: Skoone Bastion Time: 30 April - 30 September www.pohuteater.no99.ee NO99 Straw eatre is the biggest event especially created for the Culture Capital year. It is an installation, a public space and a venue for cultural events. Straw eatre will be built on the Skoone bastion, next to the famous Old Town of Tallinn. From May to September NO99 Straw eatre will host numerous famous contemporary artists with plays, space- and sound installations.

eatre

12th international choral festival and vocal ensemble competition

choral music / concerts / children / youth Place: Estonia Concert Hall, St. Johns Church, Klaassaal song stage, House of the Black Heads, Rocca al Mare school, Tallinn English College & Tallinn Reaalkool Date: 1317 April 2011 www.kooriyhing.ee Estonian choir music is one of the countrys biggest draws. e festival tradition inaugurated in 1972 is kept alive by the Estonian Choral Association. What makes the Capital of Culture choir festival special is the geographical diversity of the participants and the unprecedented scope of the childrens and youth programme in the form of school concerts.

Nordic Symphony Orchestra & conductor Anu Tali Meetingpoint Tallinn: WoW

music / concert / international / festival / youth / top musicians Place: Estonia Concert Hall Date: 23 May 2011 www.nordicsymphony.com, www.eventsymphony.com e new Nordic Symphony Orchestra season bears the title Meetingpoint Tallinn. e concerts name, WoW, comes from a work by Finnish composer and world-renowned conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen, Wing on Wing, which makes its Estonian debut on 2 May 2011. festival / civic society / music / free time / major event / charity Place: Tammsaare Park Date: 7 May 2011 www.lions.ee e goal of this event is to promote charity and good causes by bringing together doers of good deeds and citizens with a sense of mission. e festival shows how people in need can be assisted in very dierent ways: lotteries, sales of handicrafts and enjoyable competitions. e proceeds from the festival and donations will go to help children in foster homes.
FOLK CULTURE ART DESIGN MUSIC INTERDISCIPLINARY

Good Deed Festival Notice those in need

Club 2011: Telescope 11 & CyberCinema

alternative music / nightlife Place: Nisu- ja rukkiveski (Rotermanni 6) Date: 15 April 2011, video installations at 19.00, party at 22 www.artfactory.ee Telescope is dedicated to Nikola Tesla and his scientic work in elds of electricity and magnetic elds. Main act is nu wave and italo disco project Tesla Boy from Moscow. CyberCinema presents the best of Russian video artists works during the whole event.
PERFORMING ARTS AUDIO-VISUAL ARTS LITERATURE SPORTS

Spring farm day and museum night

families / international visitors / students / companies / folk culture / tradition / values / Place: Estonian Open Air Museum Date: 14 May 2011 www.evm.ee Spring on the farm is not just about sowing, but ploughing, hauling manure and spring cleaning in the farmhouse: all of which is unavoidable. When all of these tasks are complete, it is time to go to the sauna and play some music.

NB festival 2011

theatre / international / youth Place: eatre NO99 Date: 29 May2 June 2011 www.assitej.ee is international theatre festival, designed for young people, will see the participation of the best theatres from maritime nations the Nordic countries, the Baltic States, Germany and Russia as well as special guests from outside of Europe.

Kaart & Kaart Travelling through Time in Tallinn exhibition

exhibition / city / postcard / map / history Place: Streets and squares of Tallinn Date: MayAugust 2011 www.nlib.ee

e Estonian National Library has an extensive collection of city maps and postcards: some showing places from a birds eye view, and others from a more pedestrian perspective. ese two types of cards share a common history dating back almost 150 years.

Improtest 2011 international improvised music festival

Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia CAME

art / exhibition / museum / club / workshop Place: Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia (Phja pst 35) Date: MayOctober 2011 http://ekkm-came.blogspot.com/

music / improvisation / festival / international / concert / workshop Place: Kanuti Gildi SAAL, Katel & Estonian Music and Theatre Academy Date: 2022 May 2011 www.improtest.ee Improtest 2011 is an international festival which will present audiences with the best improvised music from Estonia and abroad. e headline act in 2011 will be Fred Frith.

Open Courtyards in Kalamaja dance courtyard

Kalamaja / Telliskivi Society / dance / salsa / street and courtyard / city space / community Place: Courtyards of buildings in the Kalamaja district Date: 25 May 2011 www.telliskiviselts.info ere were times when it was possible to wander into forgotten courtyards and alleyways in the Old Town and other city centre districts. e city was open to all. e series of events called Open Courtyards seeks to open up these nooks and crannies in the city and the things taking place in them. e rst to open its doors will be the Kalamaja dance courtyard, and the summer will begin with warm Spanish rhythms.

e Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia has been operating alongside the Katel for four years now, oering an exhibition programme in the summer months and club activities in the winter. e exhibition season will start with an exhibition by nominees for the Kler Prize and the announcement of the winner, and will continue with a project by EstonianNorwegian curator Karolin Tampere and Chilean-American curator Camila Marambio.

LIFT 11

urban space / art / architecture / installation / environment / city / for everyone Place: Tallinn public spaces Date: MaySeptember 2011 www.lift11.ee e LIFT11 festival of urban installations tries out dierent forms of urban art specic to their location. e idea is to shine the spotlight on everyday urban space and its use, from areas that are charged with layers of meaning to places people tend not to take much notice of as part of their daily routine.

Open Tallinn 2011

theatre / multimedia / reality show Place: Kalev Sports Hall, Juhkentali 12, Tallinn Date: 27 May 2011 at 7 pm www.omatsirkus.ee Mart Kangros performance Open Tallinn 2011 puts events into a context in which they do not ordinarily take place. He directs real life on a stage where nothing is make-believe and everything is real.

Die Hard: 11,000 Years of Estonian History

museum / exhibitions / history / mediaeval Tallinn / edutainment / treasures and values Place: Great Guild Hall & Estonian History Museum (Pikk 17) Date: 28 May 2011 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee One of Tallinns oldest and most venerable public buildings is being reopened to the public the Great Guild. is 600year-old building houses both distinguished formal rooms and closed cellar spaces never before seen by the public. An attractive exhibition entitled Die Hard: 11,000 Years of Estonian History will help visitors understand exactly why the people on these shores are so extraordinary, introducing the historical events that have had the greatest impact on them.
PERFORMING ARTS AUDIO-VISUAL ARTS LITERATURE SPORTS

Open doors and courtyards

Toompea / Old Town / open doors and courtyards / palace Place: Toompea & Old Town Date: May 2011 Have you seen the palace of Count Stackelberg, or gained entrance to the sacred temple of knowledge, the Estonian Academy of Sciences on Toompea? Do you know what the business end of an alternative theatre looks like? Have you enjoyed a cup of coee in the fashionable interior of a caf whose architecture dates back to 1550? Or seen the insides of a foreign embassy? If your answer is no, but youd like to, then come and take part in the Open Doors and Courtyards project, which will take place in May 2011 all over the Old Town of Tallinn.
FOLK CULTURE ART DESIGN MUSIC INTERDISCIPLINARY

18

Culture & events

Smaller museums/galleries
Adamson-Eric Museum C-1/2, Lhike jalg 3, tel.
(+372) 644 58 38, adamson-eric@ekm.ee, www.ekm. ee. The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16th-century building in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. Through July 03: Female Artists in the nningeby Artist Colony in the land Islands. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 1.90. J local artists can be found here. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J 641 10 76, haus@haus.ee, www.haus.ee. A commercial gallery, Haus is also open to the public and has an active exhibition schedule. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Buzz to enter. J

Haus Gallery B-3, Uus 17, tel. (+372) 641 94 71/(+372)

Hobusepea Gallery B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372)

Applied Art Museum (Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) B-2, Lai 17, tel. (+372) 627 46 00/(+372) 627 46

11, info@etdm.ee, www.etdm.ee. Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. Through April 10: Contemporary Slovak glass art. Friendship of nations - Estonian, Latvian and Lithuanian ceramics. Through May 22: Mittens and gloves. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.50. J

627 67 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/ hindex.htm. The Estonian Artists' Union operates this cosy, two-storey gallery. Through April 11: Anu Juurak. April 13 - 25: Merike Estna. April 27 - May 09: Johannes Sre. May 11 - 23: Krt Tarkmeel & Andri Allas. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.

Kastellaanimaja Gallery H-4, Roheline aas 3, tel.

City Gallery (Linnagalerii) D-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372)

644 28 18, info@kunstihoone.ee, www.kunstihoone. ee. A rapidly changing rotation of contemporary, and often boldly experimental, art exhibitions.Through June 05: Project Money, Money, Money. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.

(+372) 601 31 81, vilde@linnamuuseum.ee, www. linnamuuseum.ee/vilde. Exhibitions by local artists in the Eduard Vilde museum. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 1.92. Free every last Friday of the month.

Kullo Children's Gallery (Kullo Lastegalerii) C-2,

Kuninga 6, tel. (+372) 644 68 73, galerii@kullo.ee, www. kullo.ee. Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling house, Kullo hosts workshops for children and highlights works by the coming generation of Estonian artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 0.50. J

Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia (Kaasaegse Kunsti Muuseum) G-3, Phja pst 35, eestikaasaeg-

sekunstimuuseum@gmail.com, ekkm-came.blogspot. com. Not all modern art is contemporary and contemporary art is not all modern - or something like that. Fed up with the fact that the Estonian caretakers of culture ie. The Ministry of Culture refuses to see these differences and also refuses to see that these separate forms of art should have their own separate venues, a group of rebellious artists took over an abandoned building and decided to evangelise contemporary art to those that might listen - or watch, as is often the case with art. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. E

Mikkel Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 28, tel. (+372) 601

Design & Architecture Gallery D-3, Prnu mnt 6,

tel. (+372) 511 14 45, grynberg.ltd@mail.ee. Changing exhibition of Estonian product design. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

58 44, mikkel@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum is one of Estonia's most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. Through April 30: Simson and Delila - Story of Italian painting. May 07 - August 14: Russian Icons. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2.20. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 4.80.

Museum of Estonian Architecture B-4, Ahtri 2, tel.

Draakoni Gallery C-2, Pikk 18, tel. (+372) 646 41 10, tu-

lemadu@yahoo.com, www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex.htm. The famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. Through April 23: Ulvi Haagensen. April 25 - May 07: Laurentsius. May 09 - 21: Toomas Kuusing. May 23 - June 04: Kai Kiudsoo-Vrv. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. J

(+372) 625 70 07, info@arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, www. arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Tallinn's architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiousity. The permanent exhibit on the main floor features architectural models from the museum's collection. Temporary exhibitions are held on the other floors. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to full house 2.88, first floor/gallery 0.96, second floor 1.92.

Fankadelik Gallery C-3, Vana-Viru 6, info@fankadelik.

com, www.fankadelik.com. This tiny, funky shop-gallery-hair salon is dedicated to all things artsy. Displays from various

Niguliste Museum - Concert hall C/D-2, Niguliste

Cultural centre
The Solaris Centre D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9, tel.
(372) 615 51 00, info@solaris.ee, www.solaris.ee. Rising out of the ashes from a former soviet landmark, this all-in-one entertainment complex comes complete with a state of the art cinema, concert hall, shopping and dining facilities. Solaris even sports a decent amount of plant life, in fact the only thing it doesn't have is a hotel and if it did there would be really no reason to leave. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JULEKW

3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30/(+372) 644 99 03, niguliste@ ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. This 13th century Gothic church, now an affiliate of the Estonian Art Museum, houses a fascinating collection of medieval art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries and a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers. Not to be missed is the famous fragment of Bernt Notke's 15th-century masterpiece, Dance Macabre. Organ concerts Sat, Sun 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.20. J

Tallinn Town Hall (Tallinna Raekoda) C-2, Raekoja

plats 1, tel. (+372) 645 79 00, raekoda@tallinnlv.ee, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda. Exhibitions are occasionally held in the basement of Tallinn's medieval town hall. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From September to June visiting by appointment. Admission 3. From May 4.

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Just a few steps from the Old Town of Tallinn you will find Solaris the newest and most unique center of entertainment, shopping and culture.

Solaris has: A variety of leisure and lifestyle shops for all tastes, including Apple, Kolonna, Weplay, Extreme Sport, Harnn etc. Food Court, including a caf Komeet with the best view of Tallinn. The most innovative food-store in the city. The latest 3D multiplex cinema Solaris Kino with its 7 screens. 2 screens for classic movies at Cinema Artis. Nokia Concert Hall the best equipped concert hall in Estonia. Life here is beautiful!
Estonia pst 9, 10143 Tallinn | www.solaris.ee

20

Fashion extravaganza
Nearly 20 years on from the constrictive communist era, Tallinns fashion scene has started to come into its own. Things are moving so fast in fact, that since we last ran this feature a few years ago, loads of new designers, shops and ateliers have burst onto the scene. Wander pretty much any street in the city and youll notice a very fashionable crowd both women and men sporting the latest trends and flaunting the latest styles. However, there Piret Ilves' collection are still a few stitches to sew before Estonian designers can finally become the talk of the international catwalk. We spent a few gruelling weeks in the textile trenches to bring you up to speed on how to buy something that looks distinctly Estonian. A few glasses of champagne, a little caviar, a plethora of stunning Estonian models and a few creativity endowed designers later and we finally got to the bottoms, and the tops, of Tallinns most fashionable designs and trends.

Largest labels

The largest of the Estonian fashion concerns is the Baltika Group, established during the Soviet era. Their labels are Baltman, a high-end business and casual menswear line; Monton, a fashion forward line for trendier and hipper young men and women; Mosaic, a line for the 30-something men and women who want style and function in their wardrobe (think probably finished with partying but still want to look kind of cool); and the higher-end Ivo Nikkolo, whose label the group bought in 2006 to round out their portfolio. The Ivo Nikkolo line caters to professional women who want quality and style, both for the workplace and that romantic walk on the beach or a trip to the opera. All of these Baltika labels have become hugely successful and are sold throughout the Baltics, Ukraine, Russia, and even Poland. Another clothing line with origins in the Soviet days is Bastion, whose higher-end line offers quality feminine garments for the career woman. It continues to hold a strong position in the marketplace and is also available throughout the Baltics, Scandinavia, England and even Japan. Next theres Sangar, outfitting Estonian men and women in its quality, custom-fitted designs since the 1950s. Continuing its penchant for quality, albeit with far better fabrics than those available during the grey communist years, Sangar currently concentrates on business and business-casual shirts for men, and blouses for women. If youve got a little time on your hands and some extra cash kicking around, you can even have a shirt custommade in one of their shops (see p. 22). You have your measurements taken, you choose from a huge selection of fabrics, and then you even hand-pick the buttons and other little details. Lastly we have PTA, formerly known as Klementi, which is also sold throughout the Baltics and Scandinavia. This established label produces more conservative business and casual clothing for the working woman. Its collections always include a huge array of coats and jackets, with a bent on clean lines and quality manufacturing.

Estonias fashion scene

Although an outsider might think that the Soviet-era might have had a huge impact on the fashion scene in Estonia today, this is largely not the case. In fact, most of the up-and-coming Estonian designers of today were too young to remember the days when people had to queue for bread and toilet paper, and all knowledge of Western designs came from Finnish TV broadcasts and a few smuggled-in German fashion magazines. During those dark days of Estonian fashion, every woman was her own designer, creating her own look out of necessity. This was the only way to have something special, much better than what was available on the meagre shelves of the local kaubamaja (department store in Soviet Estonia). Estonia was however far ahead of the rest of the pack in the USSR when it comes to fashion, as well find out later. Todays designer is influenced more by global trends in fashion and motivated by modern societys need for greatlooking, affordable clothes that are also functional. That said, Scandinavian influences cannot be ignored geographic proximity does play a role, after all. In a word, the design scene here is hyperactive. In this small market where there still isnt a lot on the racks to choose from - compared to larger European countries, young people spend a lot of their time dreaming up new designs and getting creative with whatever bits and pieces they can get their hands on. Otherwise theyll end up dressing exactly like their neighbour something every high-schooler dreads. Of designers who actually make it into the fashion industry, the vast majority end up working for a big, Estonian design house. That trend is changing however and there are a lot more designers opening up their own ateliers than even a few years ago. In fact, the majority of Estonian designers, even those at the top of their field, at some time or another have worked for one or more of the countrys largest labels. Some designers choose to create their own lines, some choose to create unique designs for private clients and some choose to work for those larger clothing labels. Designers here dont have it easy by any means. In particular, the countrys small size and small marketplace makes it difficult for even the most experienced designers and fashion houses, to sell their wares. Those starting out need a helpful nudge. Much of that comes in the form of some high-profile events that have been established to kickstart the careers of would-be talents and further boost the momentum of the high-fliers.

Designers of note
With so many designers working in various pockets of the Estonian fashion industry and more making a name for themselves every week, its hard to come up with a short list of the elite. However, there are a few designers who, for very different reasons, strike us as being somehow exceptional. The first is Reet Aus, whose commitment to Estonian fashion is almost unparalleled. She helped to create the HULA label, which still operates today as a platform for young Estonian fashion design students to create their designs and a vehicle to bring them to market. Reet also has her own shop and atelier in Old Town. She currently has two labels, one a signature Reet Aus collection and the other called ReUse. The latter is an environmentally friendly label that uses 100% reused materials, stuff that was thrown away or donated to the Tallinn Recycling Centre. She is currently taking the fashion world by storm and recently participated in the Berlin Fashion Week and Japan Fashion Week.

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Fashion extravaganza
Another name worth knowing is the award-winning designer Katrin Kuldma. She started out with her own atelier only to close it down at what appeared to be the top of her game to work for PTA (see above). She now has her own studio again, called Chocolat, and is quickly rising to the level where she is ready to take on the international market. She is currently churning out couture, a ready-to-wear line called Amanjeda as well as designing custom and made-tomeasure suits for men and women. Her focus is on clean lines, the worlds best fabrics and those little added touches that give a piece that something special. She is currently looking at expanding into the international market and we think that shell probably succeed. One more designer whose name often comes up is Tiina Talumees. Historical influences and Spain seem to be themes that get her creative juices flowing. Last autumn she designed a collection entitled Vabariigi Naine (Woman of the Republic), the show was set in an old factory, featured 1930s and 40s inspired womens designs complete with cute little hats, gloves and the whole nine yards. She also recently created a line of dresses that were heavily influenced by her love of Spain. As you can probably imagine, reds, blacks, sequins and frills played a huge roll in the final ensemble. The we have the Embassy of Fashion, made up not only by one designer but an incubator of creative genius. Comprised of Aldo Jrvsoo, Riina Pldroos, Ketlin Bachmann-Pldroos, Natalja Lill and Ruta Tepp, the Embassy believes that 5 heads are better than one and we would tend to agree. Every season the collective comes up with a couple of themes and each designer producers pieces according to their own vision - based on that Ketlin Bachmann-Pldroos' design. theme. The results, which are Photo by Kristjan Lepp introduced at the same fashion show, are truly fantastic. Each designer has their own vision but all seem to somehow coherently work together in a sort of harmony. Finally we have BonBon Lingerie, not the first undergarment manufacturer in Estonia but in our opinion the sexiest and the sassiest. Launched 6 years ago, BonBon has already gained a lot of European exposure. There are resellers who stock BonBon underwear in the US, Switzerland, Austria, Latvia, Spain, Germany, France and India and the number is growing. BonBon will also have the honour of showing what theyve got going on underneath at the upcoming Mode City expo in Paris. The organisers liked BonBons collection so much they have even featured them on the expos website. We like them so much we featured them on our cover.

21

Main Events
The first is the famous ERKI fashion show, established in 1982 by the Estonian Academy of Art to promote the design talents of its fashion students. In order to have a collection featured at the ERKI show, students or design teams must submit their work and follow several stringent criteria. Last years show, which played to a packed outdoor audience at Freedom Square, was a fantastic display of creative efforts by many of Estonias most talented young designers. Although some of the designs were wearable, the main focus of the show was, and always is, the creative side of the fashion psyche. Its aim is to give students the experience and the pressure of creating a collection and bringing it to the catwalk. This years show will take place at the end of May. Another event, which actually occurs twice a year at the Viru Keskus shopping centre, is called FIBIT (Fashion Is Back In Tallinn). The event showcases both up-andcoming designers as well as some more established ones. Using the commercial backdrop of a shopping mall, the designers are invited to show the best of what theyve got to curious onlookers. This event always garners a lot of attention and aims to bring the hottest trends, some very wearable designs (and some not), into the public eye. The pinnacle, so to speak and for the last few years a part of FIBIT, is the prestigious Kuldnel. Established in 1997, the Golden Needle is an award given each year to an Estonian fashion designer who shows excellence in the field. After collections are presented at a gala, a panel of professionals chooses the winning designer. For the most part nominees are those who already have a few years of fashion experience in the real world. This years nominees were Anu Samartel-Long, Ketlin Bachmann-Pldroos and Kristina Viirpalu. The winner was Ketlin Bachmann-Pldroos with works from her previous years collections Botanic Poetry and Lost Couture. Kuldnel also presents an award called the Vike Nel (Little Needle), for the most promising young designer and this year it went to Liina Viira, a foreign Estonian born in Sweden who now calls Tallinn her home. Her designs featured a heavy ethnic theme, were full of colour and comprised of ber-cute knits. (See page 3 for photo). Held in autumn, the last of the large fashion events to take place in Tallinn is the aptly named Tallinn Fashion Week. Started a few years ago, its aim is to bring Estonian designers into the spotlight both at home and to international audiences - the focus here is not so much to showcase new collections according to seasons, as Fashion Weeks do in the larger markets, but to highlight the creativity that this country is producing. As time goes on, perhaps this event will evolve into something bigger with international buyers in the audience. Estonian designers are certainly talented enough. Nat A. Singer would like to thank Katrin Kuldma, BonBon Lingerie, Anu Ling from Tiina T alumees studio and Ester Kannelme from Anne & Stiil, for helping with information, materials and invitations. While Nat does most days wear jeans and a t-shirt, he used to write his own fashion column and hang out backstage at fashion shows.

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Fashion extravaganza
effect I have noticed is the fact that designers learned to make something out of nothing because of the lack of materials etc. And this quality of wit is still evident today. What are the biggest influences for Estonian designers today? I believe that the influences are getting more international by the minute. Young designers are crabbing inspiration from all over. And the ones that are really smart are also adding some local touches, be it the unique way to see and combine colours, to unite our western and eastern influences, our folk culture etc. What young Estonian designers are the ones to watch for the future? During the last couple of years I have seen a change in the attitude of young designers, they are starting to aim further, outside Estonia. I strongly believe that you should keep an eye on fashion designer Xenia Joost, accessories designer Julia Korovina who has her own bag line Yukocute and jewelry designer Tanel Veenre, who is already a well established name in his field. What should foreigners/tourists look out for when shopping for fashion in Tallinn (ie. hottest designers, trends, unique Estonian collections etc)? The most important thing is what not to do. I think they should keep away from the so-called souvenir shops that claim to sell real Estonian handicraft and design and sell trash instead. And vist stores like Nu Nordik, IIDA, A-Galerii. Definitely take a look at Ivo Nikkolo and Monton stores, that are good examples of bigger local brands. What are the global trends in fashion for 2011? Im in love with the love of colours and the new attitude towards combining them. And Im also a big fan of the return of a more elegant side of the 70s. You should also keep an open mind about the new hem lengths of dresses and skirts and try the slightly awkward below-the-knee versions. And if you want to spice up your already existing wardrobe, then buy exciting fruitprints or reinvented stripes. Why should tourists consider buying fashion in Tallinn? Is it less expensive than elswhere? Fashion is not cheaper in Tallinn. But there are some brands here that you cant find anywhere else like Tallinn Dolls designed by Karolin Kuusik and Liisi Eesmaa. Also, if you are willing to wander to the flea-markets, second-hand and vintage stores, you might discover some real finds. And if you spend a little more than a couple days in Tallinn, then the couture salons are top quality for much less. Good examples are the Fashion Embassy, Lilli Jahilos, Kristina Viirpalus and Oksana Tandits studios. What Estonian designers are your favourites and why? I like Anu Samartels jewelry line a_s_proto (sold in Nu Nordik), the more expensive jewelry by Tanel Veenre, fashions by Xenia Joost and the Ivo Nikkolo collections. Are women more fashion conscious in Tallinn than elsewhere in Europe? I think Estonian women are really into fashion and taking care of themselves. And I also think that men are getting there as well.

fashion lives here

An expert's opinion
We were lucky enough to get Ester Kannelme, the current editor of Anne & Still, Estonias number one fashion magazine, to provide her insight on Estonias fashion scene. After all, we are only a tourist publication and what could we possibly know about style - we wear t-shirts, jeans and hiking boots everyday to work. What kind of an effect did the Soviet times have on todays designers in Estonia? Tallinn was a major fashion city in the Soviet Union. The most popular magazine called Siluett, that set the trends in the whole country, was published here. Estonia was always infiltrated with Western fashions. There might have been a slight delay in trends reaching Estonia, but still everybody was up to date with the most important fashions. So in that sense we were not behind the Iron Curtain. The one definite

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Fashion extravaganza
Shopping guide
Heres a list of shops and ateliers that carry Estonian designs. We unfortunately were unable to talk about all of the designers worth mentioning, but we would recommend checking them all out. Most established labels can also be found at Viru Keskus, Stockmann, Tallinna Kaubamaja and other department stores and shopping centres (see p.87). Find a more extensive list of international brands on p.84.

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Baltman C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 660 14 69, www.baltman.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Bastion C-3, Viru 12, tel. (+372) 644 15 55, www. bastion.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun

11:00 - 16:00. Also at: C-4, Viru vljak 5/6 (Viru Centre), tel. 610 13 27. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Etno.ee H-3, Tartu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 682 51 24, info@ etno.ee, www.etno.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. HULA B-2/3, Pikk 41, tel. (+372) 646 43 69, hula@ hula.ee, www.hula.ee. Q J IIDA - Estonian Textile, Design & Fashion C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 641 10 77, www.iidadesign.eu. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J Ivo Nikkolo C-2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372) 641 90 57/(+372) 641 90 58, info@ivonikkolo.com, www. ivonikkolo.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Kairi Vilderson C-3, Aia 3 (WW Passaa), tel. (+372) 627 12 10, info@moemaja.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Katrin Kuldma H-2, A. Adamsoni 18, tel. (+372) 662 20 44/(+372) 501 37 97, info@amanjeda.com, www. katrinkuldma.com, www.amanjeda.com. Lilli Jahilo I-3, Veerenni 24C, tel. (+372) 513 97 57, info@lillijahilo.com, www.lillijahilo.com. Q Visits by appointment only. Monton C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 660 18 47, www.montonfashion.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Mosaic I-5, Suur-Sjame 4 (lemiste Centre), tel. (+372) 603 49 47, info@mosaic-fashion.com, www. mosaic-fashion.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Naiiv B-3, Pikk 33, tel. (+372) 646 40 90, lviira@ hotmail.com, www.naiiv.eu. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. J Namarie C-3/4, Aia 3 (WW Passa), tel. (+372) 627 12 41/(+372) 53 43 07 56, wenderol@hotmail.com. Original works by young Estonian fashion designers. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Nu Nordik D-2, Vabaduse vljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 93 92, nunordik@nunordik.ee, www.nunordik.ee. Clothes and more from young Estonian designers. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Piret Ilves D-2, Rtli 16/18, tel. (+372) 511 09 01, piret@piretilves.com, www.piretilves.com. Q J PTA C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 15 00, ptafashion.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J Reet Aus C-3, Mrivahe 19, info@reetaus.com, www. reetaus.com. Sangar H-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Centre), tel. (+372) 730 73 09, sangar@sangar.ee, www.sangar.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Sda Boutique - Oksana Tandit C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 646 75 35, suda@suda.ee, www.suda.ee. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J Tallinn Dolls H-4, Vesivrava 36, tel. (+372) 56 22 62 25, www.tallinndolls.com. Tiina Talumees B-4, Rotermanni 5 / Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 664 51 45, moestuudio@tiinatalumees.ee, www.tiinatalumees.ee.

International designs
Fashion Palace C-3, Uus 4b, tel. (+372) 648 54 42, info@fashionpalace.ee, www.fashionpalace.ee. QOpen
10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Marina Rinaldi C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 56 66 38 46, marinarinaldi@hot.ee, www.marinarinaldi.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Nolita Vintage C-3, Uus 3, tel. (+372) 58 10 84 74, nolitavintage@gmail.com, www.nolitavintage.com. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J StudioT C-4, Lai 36, tel. (+372) 641 19 46, www.studiot. ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Fankadelik
C - 3 , Va n a - V i r u 6 , info@fankadelik.com, w w w.fankadelik. com. The youngsters at Fankadelik present a style collective that has ever y thing from vintage clothing, fresh designs by young and hip Estonian designers, a hair salon and an art gallery. You can also find accessories, fanky t-shirts here and they feature a stunning array of fankadelik music which can be bought on vinyl did you say vinyl? oh yeah, now thats old-school. The ber friendly staff will even fix you a coffee while you check out their racks - of clothing that is. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J

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where to stay
Tallinn's hospitality industry has pretty much reached capacity and the total number of rooms sits at about 7800. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better, and the room rates are also likely to drop. Depending on when you book, don't be surprised if you're able to get a room for below the prices we have listed in the guide. A fluctuating price system seems to be the trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below include VAT and breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.

Symbol key
N Payment in cash only U Facilities for disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms J Old Town location C Swimming pool Z Anti-allergy O Casino hhh Star rating com/olumpiahotel-tallinn. Originally built for the 1980 Olympics, this fully-modernized, 26-storey, downtown tower now belongs to the Radisson Blu chain. The long list of facilities here includes a gargantuan conference centre, a fitness centre with a spectacular view. The rooms won't disappoint either, but for an unforgettable experience, book the top-floor sauna that faces Old Town. Q 390 rooms (singles 89 - 125, doubles 89 - 135, triples 175 - 220, suites 165 - 1150, family room 175 - 220). Extra bed 30. PHRUFLGKDCW hhhh H Conference facilities R LAN connection F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace 6 Pets allowed W WiFi connection

Cream of the crop

Barons C/D-2/3, Suur-Karja 7/Vike-Karja 2, tel.
(+372) 699 97 00, fax (+372) 699 97 18, barons@ barons.ee, w w w.baronshotel.ee. Housed in a gorgeous Old Town bank building dating back to 1912, this business class beau ty has managed to retain much of its architectural grandeur both inside and out. From the classy singles to the luxury suite, all rooms come complete with satellite television and internet access for those who like to stay in touch. Among the added bonuses are a bar, restaurant and up-to-the-minu te conference facilities. Q 33 rooms (singles 65, doubles 99, triples 106, suites 192). Extra bed 25.55, pets 20. ZJH6UILKDW hhhh

Merchant's House C-2, Dunkri 4/6, tel. (+372)

697 75 00, fax (+372) 697 75 01, info@merchantshousehotel.com, www.merchantshousehotel.com. This beautiful structure is essentially a 14th-centur y merchant's house turned into a luxury, boutique-style hotel, so don't be surprised if you get lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms and suites has been done up with cool, chic dcor, tastefully fitted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like plasma TVs, high-speed internet and fluffy bathrobes. You'll also find a 'relax room', brasserie restaurant, caf and an Ice Bar, where chilly drinks are served in ice-formed shot glasses. Q 37 rooms (singles 85, doubles 89 - 115, triples 135, quads 160, suites 175, family room 135). Extra bed 26. PZJRIGKDW hhhh

Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn D-4, Rvala pst 3,

tel. (+372) 682 30 00, fax (+372) 682 30 01, reser vations.tallinn@radissonblu.com, w w w.tallinn. radissonblu.com. From the immaculate furnishings to little touches like shoe buffers in the corridor, Radisson never misses a beat, proving there's something to be said for painfully strict international standards of quality. Other perks here include sweeping views of the city and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a definite business bent with its 14 conference rooms and office services, but families will appreciate the fact that kids under 7 stay free. Q 280 rooms (singles 119 - 129, doubles 119 - 129, suites 215 - 1022). Extra bed 25. PHRUIFLGKDW

My City Hotel D-2, Vana-Posti 11/13, tel. (+372)

622 09 00, fax (+372) 622 09 01, info@mycityhotel. ee, www.mycityhotel.ee. In a refurbished 18th-century building next to Sprus cinema, M y City Hotel offers marblesque stylishness right in the heart of Old Town. Not only will you be right in the middle of Tallinn's entertainment district, you'll also find lots of extras right in the hotel, from the piano bar to room service with complimentary newspapers and breakfast served in-room. Business travellers will appreciate the conference room and the fact that every room has its own computer with internet connection. Pricier 'executive' rooms are more spacious and have better views. Kids under 12 stay free. Q68 rooms (singles 79 - 155, doubles 84 - 160). Extra bed 25. PZJHRULGKDW hhhh

Savoy Boutique D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel.

(+372) 680 66 88, fax (+372) 680 66 89, savoy@ tallinnhotels.ee, w w w.savoyhotel.ee. Ever y bit as posh as the name implies, this Old Town establishment is a worthy addition to the growing boutique hotel market. Along with very tasteful rooms with old-fashioned touches (antique photos included), Savoy offers lots of little comfor ts like bathrobes, slippers and free local calls. And if you don't have your own laptop, they'll lend you one. Beautiful lobby caf. Q 44 rooms (singles 90 - 165, doubles 90 - 203, suites 251 - 307). Extra bed 35, pets 16. JH6UIGKW hhhhh

Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia H-3, Liivalaia 33,

Schlssle C-3, Phavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699

tel. (+372) 669 06 90, fax (+372) 669 06 91, info. olumpia.tallinn@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.

77 00, fax (+372) 699 77 77, sch@schlossle-hotels. com, www.schlossle-hotels.com. The elegance, history and warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlssle's five-star appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played host to musicians and heads of state, but even if you aren't rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly staff will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling fireplace and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay just one more night. Q23 rooms (singles 154 - 176, doubles 174 - 198, suites 284 - 710). Extra bed 30, pets 32. PJHRUILGKDW hhhhh

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where to stay
St. Petersbourg C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628
65 00, fax (+372) 628 65 65, stp@schlossle-hotels. com, www.hotelstpetersbourg.com. Aristocrats in the 19th century would stay at the St. Petersbourg when visiting Tallinn, likewise 21st-century travellers looking for luxury Old Town accommodation can find it here at the city's oldest, continuously-running hotel. Completely renovated to keep pace with newer rivals, the hotel treats its guests with modern comforts like deluxe art-deco furnishing and plush bathrobes, all the while retaining a strong sense of old world charm. Q27 rooms (singles 80 - 107, doubles 95 - 130, suites 205 - 292). Extra bed 20, pets 32. H6UI FLGKDW hhhh

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Swisstel H-3, Tornime 3, tel. (+372) 624 00 00, fax

(+372) 624 00 01, tallinn@swissotel.com, www.tallinn. swissotel.com. This lavish hotel has bragging rights as Tallinn's tallest building and needless to say some of roomviews are fabulous. Inside you'll find all the things you'd come to expect from the luxury chain, including conference facilities, a high-end spa, state-of-the-art technology and a highly trained staff catering to your every whim. Swissotel is all about the little extras such as special bathrobes and bedspreads for the kids, iPod docking stations in the executive rooms and Lavazza espresso machines in every room. Even if you don't have the pleasure of staying here, be sure to investigate some relaxing opportunities at the Amrita Spa or enjoy a delightful buffet in Caf Swiss. Q238 rooms (singles 125, doubles 125, suites 285). Extra bed restricted to grand rooms only 40. PHRUFLGKDCW

Spa hotels
Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation as well as treatment packages and day spa services. Prices here are for accommodation only, check their websites for details on their package deals.

Kalev Spa Hotel B-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 00,

fax (+372) 649 33 01, kalevspa@kalevspa.ee, www. kalevspa.ee. Opened in 2006, this enormous, state-ofthe-art facility brings Estonia's spa phenomenon to the heart of the city. In addition to tidy guest rooms, complete spa packages are available, as are a health and wellness centre, a fitness centre and a restaurant with a view of the water park. The park includes three waterslides and a 50m swimming pool, Tallinn's largest and along with the gym is available free of charge for hotel guests. Q100 rooms (singles 55 - 86, doubles 61 - 96, suites 88 - 189, Family rooms 75 - 163). Extra bed 25.55, pets 12.80. JHR6UFLGKDCW hhh

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel G-2,

Paldsiki mnt 4, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, hotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. With some fantastic views onto Toompea, a full-service spa, several eateries and sprawling conference facilities, this hotel certainly provides an 'all-inclusive' experience for its guests. The steel and glass structure houses some of the most state-of-the-art spa facilities in the city, including a salt chamber, low temperature sauna, heated beds and even something called a 'mushroom' for the kids. The conference facilities can hold up to 380 attendees and are also decked out in the latest gadgetry to give presentations a lasting impression. Q465 rooms (singles 150, doubles 170, suites 280, Family room 175, Presidential suite 460). PTHUFLGKDCW

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where to stay
Upmarket
Baltic Hotel Imperial B/C-2, Nunne 14, tel. (+372)
627 48 00, fax (+372) 627 48 01, imperial@baltichotelgroup.com, www.imperial.ee. Part of the medieval Old Town wall runs right through this small, luxury hotel, and designers have wisely integrated it into the 21st-century interior to preserve the historical feel of the building. The Imperial's management have aimed for a four-star level of quality, and with its bright rooms, beautiful sauna hall and elegant cheese restaurant (Estonia's only), they got there. The size of the double rooms varies. Be sure to ask for one overlooking the neighbourhood's picturesque cobbled streets. Q 32 rooms (singles 134, doubles 160, suites 205 - 390, family room 243). Extra bed 32. PJHRUILGKDW hhhh

Telegraaf C-3, Vene 9, tel. (+372) 600 06 00, fax

(+372) 600 06 01, info@telegraafhotel.com, www. telegraafhotel.com. This full-service hotel in a restored 19th-century former bank turned communications building has facilities that include a wellness spa, a Russian-style restaurant and an unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground parking! The ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than typical for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms decorated with French' post cards'. Q86 rooms (singles 226 - 258, doubles 246 - 278, suites 445 - 899). Extra bed 40. PJHRUILGKDCW hhhhh

Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru C-3, Viru 11, tel. (+372)

Three Sisters Hotel A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372)

630 63 00, fax (+372) 630 63 01, info@threesistershotel.com, www.threesistershotel.com. This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk tnav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The top-notch establishment offers large rooms decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside old-fashioned bathtubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The library with fireplace, world-class restaurant and cosy wine cellar are just icing on the cake. Q23 rooms (singles 188 - 268, doubles 214 - 294, suites 508 - 946). Extra bed 51, pets 19. PJHR6UILGKW hhhhh

669 15 00, fax (+372) 669 15 01, hotel@vanawiru. ee, w w w.vanawiru.ee. I t's hard to imagine that a five-storey hotel with such a grandiose marble lobby - complete with an elevated walking bridge and Italian restaurant - could be tucked into this bustling part of Old Town, but a quick peek at Vana Wiru will remove all doubt. In addition to offering guests an unbeatable location and pristine rooms, the hotel caters to business travellers with in-room WIFI connections. Find the main entrance around the corner off Mrivahe. Q 82 rooms (singles 128, doubles 153 - 179, suites 237 - 288). Extra bed 32. JHRUILGKDW hhhh

Bern C-3/4, Aia 10, tel. (+372) 680 66 30, bern@

Viru Inn C-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 611 76 00, fax (+372)

641 83 57, viruinn@viruinn.ee, www.viruinn.ee. Set in a 15th-century house on Old Town's main shopping street, this intimate, boutique hotel offers the quintessential Tallinn accommodation experience - wooden beams, curvy staircases and all. Each of its rooms and suites is a bit different, but all come complete with antique-style furnishings and other old-fashioned touches. Its modern bonuses include an enormous Jacuzzi, two saunas (free in mornings), an Italian caf, a wine cellar and free airport pick-ups. Children under 12 stay at no extra charge. Q15 rooms (singles 108, doubles 127, suites 191 - 280, Deluxe 165). Extra bed 35. PJHRUGKDCW

tallinnhotels.ee, www.bern.ee. Hotel Bern, which is tucked into a courtyard that's conveniently across from a grocery store, aims to bring its guests the best in Swissstyle hospitality with its friendly and professional staff. Due to size restrictions the 50-room establishment hasn't got many perks, but it does have a 24- hour bar, and breakfast is served in their petite, in-house restaurant. Q50 rooms (singles 48 - 93, doubles 48 - 104, De Luxe 172). Extra bed 35, pets 16. PJ6UGKDW hhhh

Clarion Hotel Euroopa G-3, Paadi 5, tel. (+372)

669 97 77, fax (+372) 669 97 95, info@euroopa. ee, www.euroopa.ee. Located in the port, they offer all the modern conveniences you'd expect from a four-star hotel with a few extras such as your very own guard-lamb on every bed. The 185 room hotel caters primarily to the business set, offering 6 conference rooms, wireless internet throughout the premises and includes a sauna and fitness centre which are both complimentar y for guests. The 41 business rooms also come equipped with balconies that have views overlooking the bustling por t area. Q 185 rooms (singles 60, doubles 65, triples 85, sui tes 192). E xtra bed 21, pets 20. PZH6UFLGKDW hhhh

L'Ermitage H-2, Toompuiestee 19, tel. (+372) 699

64 00, fax (+372) 699 64 01, reservations@lermitagehotel.ee, www.lermitagehotel.ee. A quiet, restful place to hermit yourself away - just as the French name implies - the centrally-located L'Ermitage pampers its guests with in-room creature comforts like minibars, flat pannel TVs and internet connections. Some rooms even have views of Toompea Castle, in case you lose yourself in introspection and forget what country you're in. For a truly gigantic bathroom, be sure to request a 'superior' double. Q 90 rooms (singles 65, doubles 70, suites 130, superior 90). Extra bed 24. ZJHRUIL GKDW

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Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel B-2, Pikk 29/ Lai 24,

tel. (+372) 667 71 11, fax (+372) 667 70 01, reservations@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Tallinn's newest hotel has everything you could possibly want in an Old Town establishment - including two entrances on entirely different streets. The hotel blends perfectly together the charms of the old world with the conveniences we find handy in our modern times. In typical Old Town fashion, no two rooms are exactly the same, which just adds to the charm. You'll also find the mouth-watering cakes of the Mademoiselle caf on the premises, as well as the Tapas Bar and a pretty nifty public toilet, complete with an ancient well. Q50 rooms (economy 90, standard 110, Bella Garden 130). PJHKW

Meriton Old Town Hotel A-3, Lai 49, tel. (+372) 614

13 00, fax (+372) 614 13 11, oldtown@meritonhotels. com, www.meritonhotels.com. A nice combination of modern comfort and historic surroundings are what's offered in this tourist-class hotel at the edge of Old Town. The main building with its zigzagging corridors dates from the 19th century and houses somewhat small, but cheerfully decorated guest rooms. More interesting is the lobby, which contains part of the old city wall and the round, outer edge of the neighbouring 15th-century horse mill. Try the caf here for excellent cakes. Q41 rooms (singles 90 - 120, doubles 108 - 120). Extra bed 22. JRUILGKW

Metropol B-4, Roseni 13, tel. (+372) 667 45 00/(+372)

667 46 68, fax (+372) 667 46 60, booking@metropol. ee, www.metropol.ee. This eight-storey hotel in the happening tourist area near the port has long been popular with Scandinavian weekenders. Rooms are respectably furnished in dark wood, and those from the fifth floor up have some decent views. Other pluses include the smart restaurant, karaoke bar, and many exciting packages, including the 'Romance Package' - you'll have to bring someone along to have the romance with though, as we're pretty sure that's not part of the deal. Q149 rooms (doubles 39 - 92, suites 75 - 160). Extra bed 21, pets 21. ZH6ULGKDW

Nordic Hotel Forum C-4, Viru vljak 3, tel. (+372) 622

29 00/(+372) 622 29 99, fax (+372) 622 29 01, forum@ nordichotels.eu, www.nordichotels.eu. You certainly won't be able to miss this stylish, brass-flanked glass structure which has 137m of cedar trees lining the roof. The hotel's interior is thoughtfully designed, using natural materials, which ooze warmth and comfort throughout. The premises are outfitted with the latest in communication and entertainment technology, including Skype-enabled rooms. It also boasts a beautiful spa and excellent, Mediterranean restaurant. The Forum's friendly staff have been carefully selected to make sure travellers who pass through its doors are well looked after - and they certainly are. Q267 rooms (singles 95 - 150, doubles 95 - 150, suites 155 - 210, business class room 125 - 180, double delux 135 - 190). Extra bed 30, pets 20. PJH6UIFLGKDCW hhhh

Make reservations online! www.inyourpocket.com

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where to stay

Park Inn Central Tallinn G-3, Narva mnt 7c, tel. (+372)

669 06 90, fax (+372) 669 06 91, info.tallinn@rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-centraltallinn. This spiffy downtown hotel has a wide range of rooms and the same helpful services you'd expect from a hotel in its class. The spacious rooms come tastefully decorated with a modern flair. Children are well catered for in family rooms and the lobby caf, which has an adjacent children's play area. The hotel also has a beauty salon. Q245 rooms (singles 39 - 96, doubles 39 - 96, triples 64 - 112, family room 64 - 96, executive room 64 - 115). Extra bed 20, pets 10. PH6UIGKDW hhh

Taanilinna Hotell C-3, Uus 6, tel. (+372) 640 67 00, fax

Reval Park Hotel & Casino H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, tel.

(+372) 630 53 05, fax (+372) 630 53 15, sales@parkhotel.ee, www.parkhotel.ee. The lobby of this hotel houses the flashy Olympic Casino, so the ground floor is a lot like a miniature Las Vegas. The hotel itself, about a 15-minute walk from Old Town, has spacious double rooms with great views of the nearby park. Other plusses are the restaurant, which offers up a fantastic all-day buffet. Q121 rooms (singles 54 - 105, doubles 54 - 120, suites 150 - 258). Extra bed 30, pets 10. POHR6ULGKW hhhh

(+372) 646 43 06, info@taanilinna.ee, www.taanilinna. ee. Management have lent one of Tallinn's medieval names to this fittingly old-fashioned looking hotel in the heart of Old Town. The dcor here sports deliberately quaint retrotouches, while all the fixtures are modern and even on the elegant side. Great location for the price. Q20 rooms (singles 47 - 85, doubles 47 - 99, suites 85 - 119). Extra bed 22. Pets 16. JH6LGW

Tallink City Hotel G-3, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 630

Scandic Palace E-2, Vabaduse vljak 3, tel. (+372) 640

72 00, fax (+372) 640 72 99, palace@scandichotels.com, www.scandichotels.com. For that classic, brass-trimmed, bell-hopping hotel experience, it's hard to outdo the Scandic Palace. This old Tallinn standby manages to outclass many newer arrivals with little touches like wood-paneled elevators, trouser presses, and a nice, 1930s-style caf next to the lobby. Ask for a room facing Old Town, overlooking the square. Q86 rooms (singles 41 - 73, doubles 48 - 83, triples 73 - 108, suites 123 - 301, family room 48 - 98). Extra bed 25, pets 12.80. PHR6UFGKDW hhhh

08 00, fax (+372) 630 08 10, cityhotel@tallink.ee, hotels.tallink.com. The Tallink ferry line made absolutely no compromises on quality when they installed their sparkling, mirrored hotel in downtown Tallinn. The full-service facility provides all the right touches, from conference rooms and chic restaurant to candies on the pillows. Finnish guests in particular will appreciate the nightclub and free morning sauna. Rooms are done up in a bright, sharp, contemporary style, with the higher priced 'de Luxe' doubles providing a lot more space. Q332 rooms (singles 69 - 157, doubles 94 - 211, suites 124 - 301, family room 94 - 211). Extra bed 25. PHRUFLGKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Viru C-4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 680

93 00, fax (+372) 680 92 36, viru.reservation@sok.fi, www.viru.ee. Occupying an enviable spot on what's generally considered the very centre of Tallinn, the large, Finnish-managed Sokos Hotel Viru offers an unbeatable combination of amenities and location. Aside from several classes of spiffy rooms, a conference centre, two respectable restaurants and a popular nightclub, the hotel also has direct access to the huge Viru shopping centre, which can satisfy even the deepest of retail cravings. Rooms are furnished in a colourful, friendly style. Q516 rooms (singles 73, doubles 93, suites 198, family rooms 78). Extra bed 20, pets 10. PJH R6ULGKDW

The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn G/H-2, Toompuiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660 07 00, fax (+372) 661 61 76, vsh@uniquestay.com, www.uniquestay.com. A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, The von Stacklberg Hotel Tallinn offers well-outfitted and comfortable rooms just steps away from Toompea. Standard rooms come with desktop computer terminals, while the larger 'Zen' rooms offer extra perks such as slippers, bathrobes and aromatherapy amenities to spoil your inner child. Q52 rooms (singles 190, doubles 200, Zen singles 210, Zen doubles 220). Extra bed 20, pets 20. PHR6UILKDW hhhh lemiste I-5, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. (+372) 603 26
00, fax (+372) 603 26 01, sales@ylemistehotel.ee, www.ylemistehotel.ee. This brilliantly modern hotel next to Tallinn's quiet airport has so many services you might not want to leave. Aside from the fitness centre, two saunas, European-style restaurant and conference rooms, there's a comfortable night bar and a BBQ terrace. Rooms on upper floors have a magnificent view of the lake. Despite the airport-side location, it's a fairly convenient place to stay, since buses leave from the front of the hotel and bring you into town in about 10 minutes. Q128 rooms (singles 96 - 112, doubles 112 - 131, suites 166 - 339). Extra bed 25. PZHRUIFLGKDW hhhh

St. Barbara E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00

40, fax (+372) 640 00 41, reservations@stbarbara.ee, www.stbarbara.ee. More affordable than many other centrally located hotels in its class, the St. Barbara delivers the same high quality, but without certain extras like a lobby bar and sauna. The rooms here have been recently 'refreshed' and are quite comfortable, many featuring high ceilings and enormous windows. Be sure to ask about the interesting legend surrounding the saint from which the hotel got its name. Q53 rooms (singles 47 - 55, doubles 55 - 75, family room 80 - 90). Extra bed 20, pets 13. JH6LGKW hhh

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where to stay
Mid-range
Braavo B-3, Aia 20, tel. (+372) 699 97 77, fax (+372)
641 23 17, braavo@braavo.ee, www.braavo.ee. And now for something completely different! Located just at the edge of Old Town, this bright and colourful lodging is designed with families and youth in mind. The rooms are spacious, cheerful and come at an affordable price. Don't expect too many extras but if you're looking for a place to rest your head in a central location this hotel will certainly do. If you fancy a swim or a workout, the attached Reval Sport complex will facilitate you. Q 27 rooms (singles 64, doubles 70, family room 83). Extra bed 17.90. JRUFLGDCW

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cheaper 'standard class' rooms overlooking the tracks. Try the restaurant and day spa. Q124 rooms (singles 37, doubles 38, family rooms 98). Extra bed 21, pets 13. PJH6ULGKW

Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn H-2, Endla 23, tel. (+372)

City Hotel Portus G-3, Uus-Sadama 23, tel. (+372)

680 66 00, fax (+372) 680 66 01, portus@tallinnhotels.ee, www.portus.ee. A fairly new hotel just opposite the Passenger Port's D-Terminal, Portus is a boon for economical travellers, offering decent rooms and services at a no-nonsense price. The friendly, slightly goofy interior makes it inviting, as do its Caf Retro and free internet terminal in the lobby. Q107 rooms (singles 32 - 62, doubles 32 - 68, family room 122). Extra bed 22, pets 16. H6ULGKDW hhh

666 48 00, fax (+372) 666 48 88, kwh@uniquestay. com, www.uniquestay.com. Within a brief walking distance from Old Town, the five-storey Unique Hotel Mihkli is a bright and modern hotel. All 'Standard Plus' rooms offer flat-screen, internet-connected computers and coffee/teamaking facilities. In addition to that, the 13 spacious 'Zen' rooms have Jacuzzis and mini-bars. Check out the smart lobby caf with its lunch specials. Q85 rooms (singles 90 - 100, doubles 100 - 110, suites 116 - 126, Zen singles 110, Zen doubles 120). Extra bed 22.40, pets 10. PHR6UFLGKDW hhh

Go Hotel Shnelli B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372)

631 01 02, fax (+372) 631 01 01, reservations@ gohotels.ee, www.gohotels.ee. This starkly modern, seven-storey hotel is attached to Tallinn's newly revamped railway station, which happens to have a great location just outside the Old Town walls. All rooms are done in a simple, no-nonsense style with a slight railroad theme. The 'superior class' rooms on the upper floors have beautiful views of Toompea hill. Train buffs should book a room in the slightly

Lillekla I-2, Luha 18b, tel. (+372) 627 11 22, fax

(+372) 648 13 33, info@lillekulahotel.ee, www.lillekulahotel.ee. Just a 15-minute walk to Old Town, this newly-built hotel provides immaculate, cheerful rooms, personal service and even its own little restaurant. Higher priced rooms have one large double bed as opposed to two small twins. Take trams 3 or 4 to the Vineeri stop. Q30 rooms (singles 36, doubles 42, triples 52, family room 52). Extra bed 13, pets 13, breakfast included. HR6LGW hh

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where to stay
Budget
Although there are loads of hostels around town, the free-spirited often communal living feel of them is not for everyone - especially if you are looking for something a little more private. Here are some alternatives.

Bed & Breakfast Rex H-4, Tartu mnt 62, tel. (+372)
50 78 650, bbrex@hot.ee, www.hot.ee/allarp3. If a bed and a shower are all you need, this absolutely-no-frills place near the bus station will do. Doubles have TVs, while all other rooms are set up as bunk-style triples, quads, etc. Each room has its own shower/WC and furniture, while plain, is new. Group rates are also available. Take tram N2 or 4 to the Autobussijaam stop. You can get there by bus no 17, 17A or 23, 23A to Bus Station and walk towards the tram lines on Tartu mnt. Q14 rooms (singles 13, doubles 22, triples 38). Breakfast 31.30. ULG

Hostels
The Estonian Youth Hostel Association's website is www. hostels.ee. info@16eur.ee, www.16eur.ee. If it's price and location you're after, then this recycled, former hotel turned hostel will probably suit you just fine. The furnishings are kind of mix and match, but it's overall quite clean, just don't expect to get a good nights sleep here on the weekend as it also sits smack dab in the middle of several bars, a nightclub and a gentlemen's club. We suggest wearing earplugs and that problem just might go away. Q (singles 16, doubles 25, triples 38, quads 50, Dorm bed 10). Extra bed 9.60. Breakfast 5.75. J6DW

16 Euro Hostel C-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372) 501 30 46,

City Hotel G-4, Narva mnt 24 (corner of Kreutzwaldi),

tel. (+372) 640 04 05/(+372) 55 51 12 70, fax (+372) 640 04 04, info@cityhotel.ee, w w w.cityhotel.ee. Although technically a guest house by Estonian rules, City Hotel reminds more of an upscale-budget hotel, offering a wide range of services including sauna, pool and beauty parlour. The neat and modern rooms are decorated with a quirky Russian aesthetic and are comfortable to say the least, most rooms come equipped with a WC and shower in-room, however you can opt for even cheaper accommodation that share these amenities. Q (singles 32, doubles 51, triples 77, quads 103, suites 77). Extra bed 10. PTHLGKDW

Euphoria E-2, Roosikrantsi 4, tel. (+372) 58 37 36 02,

City Hotel Tallinn G/H-2, Paldiski mnt 3, tel. (+372)

660 07 00, fax (+372) 661 61 76, info@uniquestay. com, www.uniquestay.com. In what seems to be a new trend in the city, the Unique hotel has converted some of their rooms to a no-frills concept. You can expect the same quality and modern rooms as before, just without the costly extras, such as room-cleaning and towel changes. These of course can be purchased for an additional charge along with other services. We think it's a great option for those on a budget, who don't want a 'budget' room. Check-in is right next door at the von Stackelberg. Q 17 rooms (singles 45, doubles 50). Extra bed 10, pets 10. 6ULGW hh

euphoria@traveller.ee, euphoria.traveller.ee. This hostelesque happening, brought to you by the good folks over at the Hostel With No Name', is one of the larger places in town. It's kind of a unique concept that centres around four apartments on different floors and a large common room where everyone can hang out, play the guitar, bang on bongos or if the spirit moves you, maybe even paint your own mural on the wall. Each floor has its own kitchen and toilet, one of them even has a bath! Light breakfast included. Q Prices 11.20 - 12.80/person. RLW

Flying Kiwi Backpackers C-2, Nunne 1, tel. (+372) 58

21 32 92, info@flyingkiwitallinn.com, www.flyingkiwitallinn.com. Our research suggests that Kiwis lack the necessary wing structure to be able to fly. However, this hostel is so conveniently located you won't need to fly anywhere. The interior is surprisingly modern and has all of the amenities you'd expect from a hostel and more - fancy an evening sauna anyone? It offers up dorm-style rooms as well as more private ones and get this, a 10% discount on bike rentals from the folks over at City Bike Rentals & Tours. Q6 rooms (doubles 27 - 33, triples 35 - 50, dorm room 8 - 14, twin 23 - 30). No breakfast. JRGDW

Hotel Economy B-1, Kopli 2c, tel. (+372) 667 83

00, fax (+372) 667 83 01, booking@economyhotel. ee, www.economyhotel.ee. Restoration has brought the stylish, mint-coloured, 1920s look back to the hallways and common areas of this historic hotel that overlooks the busy train station market area. Rooms, by contrast, are 21st century all the way. The colourful, brightly-lit restaurant can be reserved for groups. Q38 rooms (singles 24 - 35, doubles 29 - 55, triples 60 - 85, quads 75, family room 55 - 75). Extra bed 15. Pets 5. Breakfast 7. 6LGKW

GIDIC Hostel Tallinn H-3, Tartu mnt 31, tel. (+372) 646

Pirita Convent Guesthouse Merivlja tee 18, tel.

60 16/(+372) 53 65 03 55, fax (+372) 653 52 18, bookings@gidic.ee, www.gidic.ee. A little bit of a hike from old Town, but not completely off the beaten track, this Australian owned and run hostel is pretty basic and hostel-like. That being said it's quite clean, offers a women's only dorm, private couples dorm, internet connected laptops, WIFI, excellent quality spring mattresses and free morning coffee or tea in the kitchen. Q (doubles 32 - 35, dorm 10 - 18). GW

(+372) 605 50 00, fax (+372) 605 50 06, pirita@ osss.ee, www.piritaklooster.ee. Administered by the nuns of the Swedish St. Bridgettine order, this modern guesthouse in their Pirita convent naturally has a pious feel. The spacious rooms are decorated in comfortable, subdued whites, and some have windows overlooking the ancient ruins of the old St. Bridgette convent, next door. A common room, with TV and fridge, is available to guests. Q20 rooms (singles 34, doubles 47, triples 62, quads 80). UILNGW

OldHouse Hostel B-3, Uus 26, tel. (+372) 641 12

81/503 70 60, info@oldhouse.ee, www.oldhouse.ee. Bright, fluffy rooms make this nicely renovated, Old Town establishment almost too nice to be called a hostel. Common areas like the hallways, TV room and guest kitchen are just as spiffy. For those without a laptop, there's access to an internet connected computer free of charge. Q Reception open 24hrs.12 rooms (doubles 29, triples 39, quads 49, place in dorm 9, twin room 29). Breakfast 4. JRLNGW

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where to stay
Old Town Alur B-2, Lai 20, tel./fax (+372) 646 62 10,
contact@alur.ee, www.alur.ee. If you're just looking for a bed in Old Town, the Alur is a good choice. It's not as decked out with facilities as some other hostels, but rooms are in good shape (renovated in 2006), staff are friendly there's a usable kitchen and common room in the cellar. Q11 rooms (singles 9, doubles 21, triples 14, quads 9, place in dorm 9). No breakfast. JRGW

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Apartment rental
Short-term apartment rental is a good option for anyone staying more than a few days - you can often get a beautiful, Old Town apartment for the same price you'd pay for a cramped double room in a tourist class hotel. Apartments come fully outfitted with dishes, towels, etc. Prices are usually per apartment (not per person) and drop substantially the longer you stay. The prices we've listed here are for a single night and do not normally include breakfast unless stated otherwise. Check the individual apartments' websites for full details on their rates.

Tallinn Backpackers B-3, Olevimgi 11-1, tel. (+372)

644 02 98, tallinnbackpackers@gmail.com, www.tallinnbackpackers.com. Hands down this hostel is Tallinn's best for that feeling of international traveller camaraderie. Basically a collection of open bunk rooms, it's cheap, central and friendly, and the foreign backpacker who staff it organise video screenings and the occasional spontaneous pub visits and some funky tours both in and out of Tallinn. Free sauna, kitchen, computer and WiFi. Laundry for a fee. Looking to stay in town a little longer? They've got rooms for that too. Q5 rooms (5 Total rooms ). 34 dorm beds 9.60/bed. Extra bed 6.40. No breakfast. JRIGW

Erel Apartments & Residences H-1, Paldiski mnt

26a, tel. (+372) 663 16 40/(+372) 524 80 99, fax (+372) 663 16 41, erel@erel.ee, www.erel.ee. This large, highly experienced firm manages serviced apartments concentrated in three Old Town buildings, including one on Town Hall Square and another in a marvellously restored medieval house on Rataskaevu. Furnishing in these 2 - 8-person apartments is mainly Scandinavian and always tasteful. Guests can stay anywhere from one day to one year, but rates are better the longer the contract. The company will even pick you up at the airport. Prior booking by credit card is required. Q 25 apartments: standard class 69 - 149, business class 108 - 249. Extra bed 31. No breakfast. Pets 31. JR6GW

The Monk's Bunk C-3, Viru 22, tel. (+372) 656 11

20/(+372) 644 02 98, info@themonksbunk.com, www. themonksbunk.com. The Monk's Bunk consists of several dorm-style rooms with bunk-beds to crash on. Certainly a bit more community oriented than some places, the 'Bunk' does however pride itself in being a place where you can get some peace and quiet - at least as much privacy as you can get in a room filled with snoring strangers. Q Dorm rooms 9.40 - 11.75. JRW

Ites Apartments D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 06

37/(+372) 56 21 71 14, info@ites.ee, www.ites.ee. Geared towards travellers staying from one night to several months, this collection of apartments around the Old Town and centre offers fully equipped apartments, most with satellite TV and internet access. Some even have saunas, so ask when you reserve. Car rental service also available. Q 11 apartments from 58. JRD

Vana Tom C/D-3, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 620 92

66/(+372) 527 84 09, info@vanatom.ee, www.vanatom.ee. Having so many noisy bars nearby could either be a plus or a minus, depending on what your looking for. Smack dab in the middle of Old Town, Vana Tom is a friendly place with a nice and brightly decorated interior. Various private and dorm rooms available, and there's even a kitchen for guests' use. Just keep the location in mind if you value a peaceful rest. Q (doubles 30, triples 37, quads 45, place in dorm 7 - 10, 6-bed private room 55). Extra bed 10. Pets 10. Breakfast 3. JR6GW

Kolme Krooni Maja apartments C-3, Vene 8, tel.

Viru Backpackers C-3, Viru 5-2, tel. (+372) 644 60 50,

virubackpackers@gmail.com, www.tallinnbackpackers. com. Tallinn Backpackers' smaller Old Town facility has the same fun, backpacker-run feel as its main hostel, but it's built in a former office space where rooms offer more privacy. Computer, WiFi, kitchen and laundry are available, and guests are welcome to visit the Olevimgi location to groove with the folks there. Q7 rooms (singles 16, doubles 32, triples 38). Extra bed 12.80. No breakfast. JRGW

(+372) 525 55 69, fax (+372) 627 66 75, info@3khouse. com, www.basiilhotel.ee. Clean, central and inexpensive, these apartments right in the heart of Old Town provide everything you need to enjoy your stay in the medieval capital. Despite the slightly kitschy, Russian interior decorating, we're sure you'll find the rooms a nice alternative to bedding down in a hotel for the night. Q (apartments 30 - 130). J

Kullassepa Residence C-2, Kullassepa 11, tel./fax

(+372) 623 20 55, tel. (+372) 53 44 44 64, kullassepa@ residence.ee, www.residence.ee. The fantastic Old Town location is the main selling point here - the apartments are right next to Town Hall Square! Furnishings and sizes vary, but most tend towards an old-fashioned look, and all are fullyequipped, washing machine included. A computer can also be added by arrangement, and for an extra charge, breakfast can be brought up from the restaurant downstairs. Q 8 apartments 22.35 - 115. No breakfast. JR6ILDW

Romeo Family Apartments D-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, 4th

floor, apt 38, code 38, tel. (+372) 644 42 55, fax (+372) 660 95 88, info@romeofamily.ee, booking@romeofamily. ee, www.romeofamily.ee. This family run establishment offers the same level of quality and personalised service as many of the luxury hotels in town. Apart from very convenient (mostly Old Town) locations, each of these 1-4 room apartments has fully-outfitted kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Some have internet connections. Most apartments are located in the same building. If you'd rather just have a room, these are available as well. Q12 rooms (singles 32 - 38, doubles 35 - 42, triples 48 - 58, suites 75 - 95, apartments 45 - 55, family room 48 - 58). Extra bed 16. Breakfast at apartments 6. JLGW

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restaurants
Due to the current economic climate you may find that the occasional restaurant we have listed here has either closed its doors or reduced its hours of operation, but we've tried our best to have an accurate list by print time. Also be aware that in most cases you'll have to seat yourself, so don't wait around like a dummy - just grab an available seat and you'll eventually be brought a menu. In pubs, you'll likely need to order and pay at the bar. Service in the centre is nearly always English-speaking and foreign-language menus are the rule, although the words may not always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always included and service should never be added to the bill.

Symbol key
J Old Town location T Child friendly E Live music X Smoking area I Fireplace N Payment in cash only P Air conditioning U Facilities for disabled 6 Pets allowed S Take away W WiFi connection L Parking available B Outdoor seating

African
African Kitchen B-3, Uus 32/34, tel. (+372) 644 25
55, info@africankitchen.ee, www.africankitchen.ee. This highly funky African-themed establishment is the place to go for affordable, exotic meals and a trendy, lounge-like atmosphere. Traditional and contemporary cuisine from the continent is served in hip, colourful surroundings. Lounge tables in the main room are a bit low, so reserve a spot in the cosier Cave Room' for more comfortable dining. Service slows considerably when crowded. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (9.60). JLDXSW

Argentinian
Argentiina H-2, Prnu mnt 37, tel. (+372) 660 51 77,
info@argentiina.ee, www.argentiina.ee. Believe it or not, they actually played 'Don't cry for me Argentina' when we were here, but that's not why we recommend the place. The truth is it's actually a well-established, popular and slightly swank cellar restaurant where South American cooks grill slabs of steak and fish right in the centre of the dining room. The formalish look of the place is offset by some very quirky Mexican-style wall dcor, as well as a lovably kitschy floor show on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15). JEBS

American
Mack Bar-B-Que H-4, Tartu mnt. 63, tel. (+372) 601
09 69, table@americanfood.ee, www.americanfood. ee. In terms of American-style atmosphere and service, it's hard to get any more authentic than Mack. Designers of this combination sports bar/family-style restaurant went all the way, with red, vinyl booths, bottles of Heinz catsup, piped-in 80s hits and no smoking' signs in Spanish. There's even free ice-water! Unfortunately the food quality doesn't really live up to expectations. The long menu includes nachos, pizza, burgers and milkshakes, but barbecued meats are the speciality. If you get stuck, just order a Dr. Pepper. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (10.85). TVXS

Asian
Asian Aroma H-2, Sda 1, tel. (+372) 627 89
77/(+372) 53 31 15 63, aa.asianaroma@gmail.com, www.asianaroma.ee. This fast-food caf was originally billed as pan-Asian, but just about everything on the menu seems to be Chinese, or at least Chinese-like. The spring rolls were great, and the sweet and sour fish was, well... let's say edible, though uninspired. On the plus side, the service is actually fast and friendly. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (5.75). VS

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina B-3, Pikk 43, tel.

Asian Wok & Grill H-2, Paldiski mnt 4 (Meriton Grand

(+372) 631 17 55, texas@texas.ee, www.texas.ee. Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation - this bar screams 'Texas' so loud you might think you've walked into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step. The long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (Cadillac nachos, quesadillas, etc) with other things like hot wings, Texas potato salad and a decent selection of vegetarian items thrown in. Not all dishes are as authentic as the Alamo, but enough are to make this a decent destination for homesick Yanks. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (8). J6IESW

Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 51, hotel@ meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Other than the fact that it's pretty tasty food for a decent price, there's one more bonus - you can eat as much as you want for that same price! There are a couple of ways to get your food here. The first way is to load your plate full of hot and ready Asian cuisine, take it back to your table and dig in. The second option is to fill your plate full of meats and vegetables, choose a sauce and have the smiling chef 'wok' it up for you. Starters, sushi, soups, salad and a dessert are also included - in case you were worried. Drinks cost extra and there's also an la carte menu for those with little imagination. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. (9.59). JUW

Chedi B-3, Sulevimgi 1, tel. (+372) 646 16 76, chedi@

chedi.ee, www.chedi.ee. Call it a swank, upscale restaurant with an Asian menu, or an Asian restaurant done up to the nines. In either case, what you'll get at Chedi is a sleek, novel dining experience that fuses East Asian and Western trends.

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Latvian
Lido D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9 (Solaris Centre), tel.
(+372) 609 33 64, lido@lido.ee, www.lido.ee. What is a Latvian restaurant anyway? Lido is an institution in Latvia and practically every Estonian and their mother has been to at least one of the locations in Riga at least once. With their first satellite location now open in Estonia, you too can see what all the fuss is about. The market concept is pretty simple and the food quite hearty. Just grab a tray, and point at what you want, the prices are all listed and the helpings are rather large. You certainly won't leave Lido hungry. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (6.40). TUSLW This is where Thai Pike Perch meets lamb chop in chocolate sauce, and the quality is always top-notch. The only hiccup here is the service, which can at times be sluggish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (17). JS

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Everest Kathmandu H-3, Liivalaia 19, tel. (+372) 644

20 68, www.kathmandu.ee. Set up like a casual, lunch caf, this nominally Nepalese establishment is a contrast in styles, meaning the piped-in monks' chanting clashes a bit with the sexy Fashion TV models strutting on the corner set. The menu is divided into Indian and Chinese sections, and the food was passable. Be warned that if you opt to try the chef's own sauce, you'll want to suck on a fire extinguisher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6). 6VSW

Balkan
Admiral G-3, Lootsi 15, tel. (+372) 662 37 77, admiral@
estpak.ee, www.aurulaev-admiral.ee. A meal at Admiral, a smart restaurant built into an old steam ship, has to be of the most unforgettable dining experiences in town. The service and atmosphere here harken back to times when a luxury sea voyage was the height of class. While waiting for your meal you are encouraged to check out the multitude of old photos, model ships and seafaring memorabilia that grace the interior. The impressive view of Tallinn harbour through the portholes is unquestionably 100% Estonian, but the menu here is actually Balkan, with Serbian beef and other lamb and fish dishes from that region. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12.80). TLXS

Brazilian
Ipanema Rodizio H-2, Endla 23, tel. (+372) 666
48 17/(+372) 666 48 00, restoran@uniquestay. com, www.ipanemarodizio.ee. Perfect for groups or individuals looking for a unique experience, the Ipanema features a Brazilian-style buffet loaded with authentic and fresh dishes. Passadors (meat carvers) actually go from table to table and slice off as much meat as you can handle. We suggest you come on an empty stomach if you want the full experience. They also have a scaled down lunch rodizio for 9 between 12:00 and 14:00 and an la carte menu. Live music on weekends. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (27.50). T6ULESW

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restaurants
Caucasian
Hearty cuisine from Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan became popular here during Soviet times and continues to leave its mark on the local culinary scene.

Must Lammas C-3, Sauna 2, tel. (+372) 644 20 31,

restoran@mustlammas.ee, www.mustlammas.ee. Serving up a chic, gourmet take on Georgian cuisine - elsewhere a relatively casual affair - Black Sheep certainly stands out in the herd. Not that anyone's complaining. The restaurant's sharp interior is worthy of a design catalogue, and the excellent trout with raisins, plums and estragon we had was far more exciting than anything you'd find at the average shashlyk (kebab) stand. Rest assured though that shashlyk and other Georgian favourites are available here too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (9.60). TJ6S

Pirosmani lipilaste tee 1, Nmme district, tel. (+372)

639 32 46, www.pirosmani.ee. This one is way off the map, but it's the only place we've found that makes Georgian food like they do in Georgia. The restaurant's cosy, country tavern interior gives it a kind of downmarket authenticity, and if you can't decipher the menu, just look at the pictures. In summer there is also an outside seating area with a small kids' playground. In the Nmme suburb, take trolleybus N3 about 30 minutes to the Ehitajate tee stop, then go left and pass the university. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (7.35). IBXS

Chinese
China Inn C-3, Viru 9, tel. (+372) 648 45 85, www.chinainn.ee. Located smack dab in the middle of Viru street, this 100% Chinese cellar-restaurant has all the makings of a tourist trap, but isn't. The food is pretty decent, and certainly prepared from authentic recipes. Some of the dishes are a little on the expensive side, but you can still fill your belly and afford to have drinks with friends later. Check out the affordable buffet too. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (18.80). JS

Golden Dragon B-2/3, Pikk 37, tel. (+372) 631 35 06,

golden.dragon@mail.ee, www.goldendragon.ee. A longtime favourite among Tallinn's experienced diners, this little cellar restaurant's food quality has suffered mixed reviews as of late. However, we quite liked it the last time we were here so we'll let you be the judge. The portions of spring rolls continue to be big enough to feed you and 1.3 billion of your closest friends. Be warned though that the service, while always friendly, can slow to a crawl when things get busy. Come by for the economical weekday lunch special. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (8.95). TJIVS

12, kathmanduhill@gmail.com, www.kathmanduhill.ee. Mainly catering to the local lunch crowd, this is a simple, bricklined, caf-like affair serving mainly Chinese and a bit of Indian cuisine to those coming in off the busy street outside. Because the food is fairly decent, it's developed its share of regulars. If you want spice, be sure to tell the cook. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (9). VSW

Kathmandu Hill H-2, Prnu mnt 36, tel. (+372) 631 42

Peking C-3, Mrivahe 52, tel. (+372) 51 91 66

16/(+372) 644 05 71, balty2003@hotmail.com, www.peking.ee. One of the oldest restaurants of its kind in town, Peking, is in fact getting old. It does however offer a very interesting and creative menu featuring an Aphrodisiac selection that includes Fried bull eggs with sauce', among other supposed sexual enhancing delicacies. The atmosphere is a little tacky, albeit not surprising for a restaurant of the genre, but unfortunately we found the food to be mediocre. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (7.65). J6IS

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Estonian
Kaerajaan C-2, Raekoja plats 17, tel. (+372) 615
54 00, kaerajaan@kaerajaan.ee, www.kaerajaan.ee. Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Estonianthemed restaurant with a modern twist. It consists of a caf on the main floor and a slightly more formal restaurant in the top floor. You won't find any of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (11.80). JBW

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Kuldse Notsu Krts C-2, Dunkri 8, tel. (+372) 628 65

67, knk@schlossle-hotels.com, www.notsu.ee. Heaven for pork-lovers, at the Golden Piglet Inn' the cooks even put bacon in the bread! This country-style Estonian restaurant undeniably caters to the tourist crowd, but we really liked the bright, folk-art motif. The menu is much more interesting than the heavy food however, offering such dishes as the 'Estonian sausage feast for two' get your minds out of the gutter ladies, or the ever popular 'crisp pork knuckle with sauerkraut.' Despite the carnivorous theme, a selection of vegetarian dishes is available for those herbivores out there. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12.80). JUIBSW

Liisu Juures C-2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644

19 83, info@liisujuures.com, www.liisujuures.com. Set in a historic cellar on Town Hall Square, you'll find authentic Estonian food presented in a gourmet fashion at Liisu's Place. Choices such as 'pork knuckle for 2', served with sweet and sour red cabbage and braised potatoes are on offer as are 'frisky sausages' for the kids, all of which can be enjoyed on the outdoor summer terrace, weather and season permitting. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (10.25). JIBS

Mekk D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. (+372) 680 66

Hungarian
Kapten Tenke E-2, Prnu mnt 30, tel. (+372)
644 56 30, restoran@kaptentenkes.ee, www.kaptentenkes.ee. An old-time Tallinn favourite, this friendly, little restaurant sports wooden tables, garlic wreaths and lots of strange, little doilies, all shining a nostalgic light on the land of Estonia's Finno-Ugric cousins. The focus here is on tasty Hungarian favorites, prepared with your pocketbook in mind. We quite liked the pork snitzel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (9). TSW

88, info@mekk.ee, www.mekk.ee. For modern Estonian cuisine done right, make sure to pay a visit to the Savoy Boutique hotel's culinary gem that is Mekk. Although the portions are somewhat dietary, the fare is fresh, prepared imaginatively and the meals come complete with home-made artisan bread. The service was pleasantly welcoming, as were the prices for the overall experience. We highly recommend the to-die-for desserts, which in our opinion belong under glass in an art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (12.80). TJ6UBSW

B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 50, restoran@

restoran-o.ee, www.restoran-o.ee. Despite being named for one of Estonia's hardest-to-pronounce vowels, is well worth seeking out. The atmosphere of stylish, charcoal-coloured furniture, with dove-wing chandeliers overhead add an artistic touch. The equally fashionable menu, prepared by one of Estonia's most decorated chefs, is inventive and modern with emphasis on the use of local ingredients. Here you can find mouth-watering moose dishes, home-made reductions and fresh seasonal fish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (22.35). LSW

Vanaema Juures C-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372)

626 90 80, vanaema.juures@mail.ee, vonkrahl.ee/et/ toit/vanaemajuures. True to its name, Grandma's Place treats its guests to a warm welcome and a cosy dining room filled with antiques. Take heart that there's no sign of the big, bad wolf here, though wild boar is occasionally on the menu. Elk roast is a regular feature and the lamb with bleu cheese comes highly recommended. Reservations are a good idea for Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (9.60). TJS

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restaurants
French
bonaparte@bonaparte.ee, www.bonaparte.ee. You'll be hard pressed to find a more elegant locale for French cuisine. Set in an amazingly restored 17th-century merchant's house, Bonaparte is a high-class affair all the way, from the complimentary elk carpaccio to the wine and cheese cellar. The portions seem small though - maybe it was the huge plates. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (19.15). JSW

Bonaparte B-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44,

C'est La Vie C-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48,

info@cestlavie.ee, www.cestlavie.ee. One of the most impressive restaurants we've had the pleasure of reviewing comes in the form of this snazzy cellar venue. From the black and gold 1920's motif to the friendly service and the heated floors, C'est La Vie gets top marks. The internationally infused menu contains just the right amount of Frenchness and the artfully prepared food is more than magnifique. We think it's the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or just a classy start to any evening out. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (14.50). J6ESW

German
Baieri Kelder E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00
45, www.stbarbara.ee. All the classic beer-hall elements are presented in the Hotel St. Barbara's cellar restaurant. It's got the vaulted stone ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and the obligatory, outrageously happy, piped-in schlager music. The brief menu offers things like Bavarian hunter sausages and Vienna schnitzel. Our pike perch came decently peppery, but was served with less-than-cohesive potato dumplings. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (10.55). TILW

Beer House C-2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, info@

beerhouse.ee, www.beerhouse.ee. In keeping with its beer-drinking theme, the menu at Tallinn's only microbrewery lists six different kinds of sausages (pizza also available). The real reason to stop in though is the beer-hall ambience and the unpasteurised, home-made brew, which comes in seven varieties. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (10.55). PJ6EBXSW

Schnitzel Haus D-2, Rtli 28/30, tel. (+372) 645

00 59, schnitzelhaus@schnitzelhaus.ee, www.schnitzelhaus.ee. Accordion-heavy pop hits, wooden beer hall tables and vaulted ceilings, come together to form this den of schnitzel. The menu consists mainly of... well - schnitzel and they will certainly have you yodelling. Just in case you're not in the mood for a pounded-flat, breaded and fried meal, they've also got a few other meaty mains to choose from and a 'Radler' on the drink menu was also a plus. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8.30). PTJ6ILESW

Scottish
oti Klubi B-3, Uus 33, tel. (+372) 641 13
30/(+372) 502 96 55, info@sotiklubi.ee, www. sotiklubi.ee. Looking for an alternative to haggis? This Scottish hunting-lodge-themed pub/restaurant offers up dishes such as lamb's liver, grilled duck, and various fish items. The not-so-Scottish culinary delights found here are for a more refined taste bud, enjoyed in the quiet, candle lit atmosphere, however quick service' and Scottish hospitality' were not included in the slightly inflated prices.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (11.15). TJW

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Greek
Artemis Souvlaki B-3, Pikk 35, tel. (+372) 644 11
14, info@artemis.ee, www.artemis.ee. Having Greek owners, who actually cook the food, puts Artemis far, far above the other 'Greek' restaurants in town. This is a tiny, but well-appointed restaurant where each table is named after an island, and plastic grapes dangle from the ceiling. Authentic items like moussaka, pasticcio and several feta dishes make up the menu. The meat platter was fantastic; in fact our mouths are still watering. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10.20). JBS

Say cheese!
St. Michael Juusturestoran (St. Michael Cheese Restaurant) B-2, Nunne 14, tel. (+372)
627 48 45/(+372) 627 48 04, restoran@imperial.ee, www.juusturestoran.ee. Monks and cheese - always an unbeatable combination. The Imperial Hotel building was once part of the St. Michael Nunnery, so naturally waiters in monks' garb preside over its smart, medieval style restaurant. Choose from cheesy mains such as tournados with Roquefort, but be warned though that they're on the heavy side. There's also a cheese-free menu for the lactose wary. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. (19). TJULESW

Syr taki Taverna C-1, Piiskopi 1, tel. (+372) 644

60 76, syr taki@hot.ee, w w w.syr taki.ee/tavern. One of the ver y few eating establishments located on Toompea, this li ttle Greek Tavern ser ves up hear ty, meat and onion-laden dish es even Zorba could appreciate. E xpect to find a plethora of Greek favouri tes prepared according to tradi tional recipes. Be warned th ough that por tions h ere are rath er large and th e meals meant for two could almost feed an army. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (9.60). JIS

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restaurants

International
bossanova.ee, www.bossanova.ee. Apparently everybody in Tallinn is doing sushi now. Sitting right on Town Hall Square, this is a dark and swank establishment with several menus offering everything from pizza to... you guessed it - sushi. An army of staff buzzes about the place helping diners narrow their choices between calzones and nigiris. We just hope the sushi chefs won't be unhealthily inspired by the oversized aquarium and their pet shark named Eve. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (16). PTJXSW

Bossanova C-2, Kinga 1, tel. (+372) 644 65 05, info@

Indian
Caf VS E-2, Prnu mnt. 28, tel. (+372) 627 26 27,
info@cafevs.ee, www.cafevs.ee. After all these years Cafe VS is still a popular, cutting-edge bar rather than a traditional Indian restaurant. Nevertheless this is where Tallinn's expats, Indians included, end up when they crave a good Indian meal. A good pick for fantastic Tandoori cuisine without the formality (and price) of other Indian venues. The main courses can be quite large, but they do offer a half-portion not listed on the menu. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10.55). USW

Caf Palace E-2, Palace Hotel, Vabaduse vljak 3, tel.

Chakra B-3, Bremeni kik 1, tel. (+372) 641 26 15,

info@chakra.ee, www.chakra.ee. If there's one thing you should know about Chakra, it's that the people who envisioned it have a long and successful history bringing innovation and quality to the local dining scene. The atmosphere comes complete with authentic, often naughty, knick-knacks from India. The food is prepared with care, using top-notch ingredients and recipes, some of which only the best chefs from the home country can pull off. In short, we think that it probably won't be the last time we'll dine here. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (19.50). JBSW

(+372) 640 73 00, palace@scandichotels.com, www. scandichotels.com. The airiness and frenetic lunchtime activity makes the Palace Hotel's restaurant feel like a busy train-station caf at times, but if you happen to be in the area it's worth stopping by for a bite. The small selection of heavily Italian influenced mains (pastas, Caesar salad) is filled out by other items such as burgers and grilled dishes. Stay near the back if you want it quiet. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (7.70). TJW

Chicago 1933 C-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66, info@

Elevant C-2/3, Vene 5, tel. (+372) 631 31 32, elevant@

elevant.ee, www.elevant.ee. This is an exceptional Old Town alternative to medieval theme restaurants. Beautiful dcor from the entry foyer's antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse earthy sheik furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal. The sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the menu, offering a wide selection of innovative, carefully prepared Indian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners should pay particular attention to the meat selection. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (9.60). TJBS

chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. If you're lookin' for the swankiest Speakeasy in town to take your sweetheart or just a safe place to meet with some 'associates', you'll find Chicago provides just that. The classy dames who serve you won't pry into the nature of your 'business' and they'll bring you a glass of 'Canadian whiskey' or a 'Sidecar' with a smile. The menu is a 'brothel', chalk full of juicy meats, mouthwatering pastas and even a nifty selection for the sweet tooth. In fact, pretty much the only thing you won't find here is a deep dish pizza ...but we'll try not to hold that against them. In short, this joint certainly ain't no gamble. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (14). PJEXSW

Clazz C-2, Vana Turg 2, tel. (+372) 627 90 22, clazz@

Maharaja C-2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644 43

67, info@maharaja.ee, www.maharaja.ee. Of all the Indian restaurants in Tallinn, this old favourite on Town Hall Square is the most formal and the most involved - someone even greets you at the door and fusses over you until you're seated. The food here is absolutely amazing, so if you don't mind the fact that an order of rice here costs the same as a full meal elsewhere, it's a fine choice. Every detail here is authentic, from the large likeness of Vishnu down to the mango chutney. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (13.75). JS

clazz.ee, www.clazz.ee. Occupying a prime, Old Town location, Clazz falls somewhere between trendy restaurant and a plush lounge bar with live music on most nights. Actually, the sprawling establishment has plenty of room to be both. The menu offers a medley of international favourites with an emphasis on jazzy dishes you'd expect to find only in the Dirty South'. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. From April 15 open: 11:00 - 03:00, Sun-Mon 11:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (11). J6UEBW

Vietnamese
Saigon H-3, Pronksi 3, tel. (+372) 640 39 44, www.
saigon.ee. The menu here offers both Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, and we (along with our waitress) had trouble working out which were which. Still, it's a pleasant enough little place, clean, casual and caf-like and our food, whichever nation claims it, was highly edible. Ingredients are fresh and rice dishes are excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (7). TULVSW

Spice C-2, Mndi 4 / Pikk 14, tel. (+372) 644 18 18,

info@spicerestoran.ee. Looking for friendly service in Tallinn? It actually does exist at Spice, where they serve up a smile alongside fresh, flavourful and spicy Indian cuisine. If you can't handle the heat, you'll also find a decent selection of coco-nutty Thai dishes, a handful of European and some interesting vegetarian offerings. We hear that all the chefs here hail from India, so you're in for a real treat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7). JSW

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restaurants
Dominic C-3, Vene 10, tel. (+372) 641 04 00, dominic@restoran.ee, www.restoran.ee. The historic Dominic has two different faces - an elegant 'black & white' caf in the front and a luxurious French-style restaurant in the back. The caf is a great place to nibble on a slice of cake while enjoying a rich espresso or to even indulge in one of the light bites on offer. For a more formal experience, table cloth napkins and all, the restaurant might just fit the bill - and cost a few too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12.80). J6ESW

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Entrecte Restaurant C-2, Dunkri 6, tel. (+372)

697 75 10, info@merchantshousehotel.com, www. merchantshousehotel.com. Laid out in a warren of nicely spruced-up cellar rooms, the Merchant's House Hotel's restaurant wins our praise for friendly service and its quiet and romantic ambience. You can find several meaty favourites on the small, easy to navigate menu, but what really won our hearts was the finest Wiener Schnitzel we've ever had in Tallinn. For daytime diners, you can also savour the full menu from the comfortable leather seats in the upstairs lounge. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. (12). PTJIBSW

Kalle Kusta C-3, Viru 21, tel. (+372) 644 95 27, info@

kallekusta.ee, www.kallekusta.ee. One of the oldest 'tourist traps' in all of Tallinn, somehow we missed listing them. But if we must be honest, they haven't really been missed too badly. The quality of the food is on par with most older pubs around town, but the price for food ratio is a little skewed with the 'don't-pay-much-attention-to-the-price tourist' in mind. Not that it was awful, just mediocre and pricey for what we got. The cellar atmosphere was also a little lacking and left us feeling - what's the opposite of cosy? Beware of the sketchy character standing outside trying to tempt you into dining here. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (10). PJ6XSW

Karl Friedrich C-2, Raekoja plats 5, tel. (+372) 627

24 13, karl.friedrich@ag.ee, www.karlfriedrich.ee. This restaurant overlooking Raekoja Plats serves up roast duck shank and all manner of chicken and pork fillets in its nicely carpeted, wood-panelled, second floor dining room. The food here is rather decent, though the prices seem to have the free-spending tourist in mind. During the warmer months you'll find a scaled down menu out on the terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (16.60). TJIBW

NEH G-3, Lootsi 4, tel. (+372) 602 22 22, info@neh.

ee, www.neh.ee. What began as a seasonal establishment on the Island of Muhu during the summer months, proved so popular among Estonians that they decided to pack up the kitchen and move to Tallinn during the colder season. A self-described, 'winter retreat for foodies' - Neh, which kind of sounds like a sneeze if you you try to say it three times fast, truly is such a culinary experience that locals reserve far in advance just to get a table here. They offer a less expensive lunch menu and a pricier, albeit more involved, dinner menu. Regardless of when you plan on checking it out - reservations are indeed recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. (13-22). PUL

Old Estonia C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 641 21

83, info@oldestonia.ee, www.oldestonia.ee. Taking full advantage of its prime Raekoja Plats position with a ceiling to floor glass front, Old Estonia is perfect for dedicated people watchers. The simple stylish menu is complimented by an extensive wine list compiled from wine regions across the globe. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (16). TJSW

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restaurants

dcor, this eatery/fashion and wine shop is kind of a cross between an old Soviet-era cafeteria and a stylishly retro second living room. The 'New Estonian' cuisine with Italian leanings and the artisan breads certainly had us impressed, as did the complimentary (before 4pm) cucumber and citrus infused pitchers of water. We've already been back for seconds. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (8.30). TLW travel@travelrestoran.ee, w w w.travelrestoran.ee. The swank Travel (pronounced trav-el) gives a definite touch of class to Tallinn's railway station. The menu is a mixture of international favourites including Caesar salad, 'Oven Roasted Pork Chop', etc. and we quite liked the butterfish. This is a great place to enjoy a decent meal or to just sit and sip on a coffee. They even have a cognac and cigar lounge if you'd rather feed your vices. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (8). TIXSW

Travel B-2, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 01 66,

Vana Toomas C-2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. (+372) 631

42 27, reserve@vanatoomas.ee, www.vanatoomas. ee. Named after the famous Town Hall weather vane that can actually be seen from some of the tables here, this international-style restaurant/caf offers fresh baked goods, pizzas, salads and other hearty but healthy dishes. While nothing fancy, the food is quite decent and they even present respectable and inexpensive breakfast options from 08:30 - 11:30 every day. We dare you to try the chocolate cake, you may or may not regret it. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. (14). JBW

Olematu Rtel C-1, Kiriku Pik 4a, tel. (+372) 631

38 27, info@olematu.ee, www.olematu.ee. One of the very few places on Toompea to grab a bite, the 'Non-existent Knight' is tucked into an alley and should probably stay that way. The food, albeit certainly not the worst we ever had, was certainly a little lacking. In fact our lamb seemed as though it had been left out to pasture a little too long. It appeared to have been prepared with love though and that has to count for something. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (10.55). TJ6UVESW

Von Krahli Aed C-2, Rataskaevu 8, tel. (+372) 626 90

Reval Caf Restaurant D-2, Mrivahe 14, tel. (+372)

641 81 00, reval@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. Attached to a caf of the same name, this is the first full-fledged restaurant in the popular Reval chain and we have to admit it's certainly worth a try. The interior is cosy with an old-worldly feel, and the menu is dominated by a large selection of rich pastas and a variety of fillets. Our duck was succulent, however our rosemary potatoes didn't seem to have much to do with rosemary, perhaps they were prepared by a woman with the same name and oddly enough, they cost extra. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10.85). TJLXSW

88, aed@vonkrahl.ee, www.vonkrahl.ee/toit/restoranaed. The 'Garden' is a highly chic establishment with plenty of opportunity to lounge while enjoying a fresh meal or light snack. The emphasis here is on healthier choices and you can choose from mains that involve spelt, hemp seeds and other intriguing additions. They even mark items on the menu that contain gluten, eggs and lactose. We thought the duck fillet cooked at a low temperature with roasted vegetables and Pltsamaa wine sauce seemed rather interesting. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (6). J

Garlic
Balthasar C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 627
64 00, balthasar@ag.ee, www.balthasar.ee. Beautifully-restored dining rooms overlooking Town Hall Square provide Balthasar the perfect aristocratic setting for its refined establishment. The speciality of the house is garlic, and everything that can be made with it. The number of bulbs next to each menu item indicates the dent it will put in your evening's social prospects. Just when you thought you had enough garlic, a quick look at the dessert menu reveals garlic ice cream! Reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (17). TJEW

Senso H-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 631 58 70, senso@

radissonblu.com, www.restoransenso.ee. With loads more character and cutting-edge dcor than your typical hotel restaurant, Senso pulls in a good number of business people and other civilians from around town. The huge range of cuisine on offer includes sandwiches, burgers, pastas, pizzas and grilled items, all served with a professional (but not over-starched) manner. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. (14.70). TULSW 56 99 22 25, resto@sfaar.ee, www.sfaar.ee. In terms of

Sfr C-4, Mere pst 6e, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 00/(+372) Tallinn In Your Pocket

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restaurants
Italian
Due, perhaps in part, to the influx of Italian men who have seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather endless supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a plethora eateries in this category. We're not complaining though, both the food and the blondes are bella.

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al Sole C-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 611 76 00, viruinn@

viruinn.ee, alsole.viruinn.ee. Almost guaranteed a flow of customers thanks to its prime location on Viru tnav, this busy place is made up of a funky, foyer caf and a more staid rear dining room. Cakes spin around in a glass case in between. The menu concentrates on familiar pasta dishes and a whack of juicy pizzas, which have been pretty decent every time we've had one. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (9.50). JSW

Basiilik G-3, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola Plaza, tel.

(+372) 56 50 99 91, info@basiilik.ee, www.basiilik.ee. Truly an unexpected find. Though not quite rivaling the best Italian cuisine in town, for a restaurant that's in a giant cinema house, Basilik is surprisingly high-quality. Soups, pastas and other mains are served by friendly staff in a nicer-than-average dining room. Crowds ebb and flow according to the film schedule. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (7.65). W

Bocca B-3, Olevimgi 9, tel. (+372) 611 72 90, bocca@

bocca.ee, www.bocca.ee. A smart, slick establishment where you'd expect to run into super-chic members of Tallinn's A-list, or maybe a supermodel or two. Bocca delivers formal, professional service and an inventive array of pastas and filletos (fillets), all under the watchful eye of award-winning chef Nicolo Tanda. The attached loungy bar is a swank place for a post meal cognac. Make reservations on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13.00 - 22:00. (15.65). J6S

Buongiorno D-3, Mrivahe 17, tel. (+372) 627 76

13, info@buongiorno.ee, www.buongiorno.ee. Infused with the powerful fragrance of garlic and decked out with unmistakably Italian mementoes, this small caf leaves no room for doubt that there's the hand of a native at work here. More casual and less expensive than Old Town's other Italian choices, Buongiorno will treat you to an authentic and friendly experience. Rumour has it that quality has been down as of late, we'll let you be the judge. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (10). J6

fairly speedy and friendly to say the least. The atmosphere was also quite cosy and emanated a certain warmth. The food on the other hand fell short of excellent. Our pizza was raw and even after it had been remade came back soggy and slightly raw. The advertised prosciutto was also nothing more than ham and not the Parma variety. When we offered some friendly hints on how to 'improve' their performance, the suggestions were met with scepticism and they went on the defensive. Overall not a bad place and we do hope they improve, but with so many authentic Italian locations in Old Town, you might be best to skip this one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (8). JSW

Controvento C-3, Vene 12/Katariina kik, tel. (+372)

644 04 70, info@controvento.ee, www.controvento. ee. Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine. It's featured in every tourist guidebook, so be sure to make reservations. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (8.30). JI

La Bottega C-3, Vene 4, tel. (+372) 627 77 33, info@

Fellini C-2, Kinga 1 (Raekoja Plats), tel. (+372) 631 47

75, info@fellini.ee, www.fellini.ee. Distinguished by its location above Town Hall Square (definitely ask for a window table!), Fellini offers pastas, meat and fish dishes in a subdued ambience that skirts the edge of formality. Live piano music two nights a week adds a romantic touch. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (16). PTJESW info@kyylik.ee, www.kyylik.ee. Estonian for 'Speedy Hare' the service at this 'Italian' restaurant was certainly

labottega.ee, www.labottega.ee. Dreamt up by the creative minds who brought you the likes of Bocca, , Chedi and a host of other stylish eateries, the Bottega is certainly just as 'sparkling'. In fact, this restaurant is styled just like an upscale Italian 'shop' with shelves of wine and other delicacies stacked all the way to the very high ceiling. The cuisine is equally fresh and the service was not disappointing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (12.80). J6S

Limoncello C-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 682 58 67, info@

Krme Klik D-2, Harju 7, tel. (+372) 699 96 80,

limoncello.ee, www.limoncello.ee. Fresh, elegant and delicious are just three words that describe this revitalised eatery on Vene street. The ingredients that go into the cuisine combine the best locally available items with certain special touches from Italy. There are a variety of exceptional wines on hand and, as the name would suggest, enough Limoncello and inspired creations to go around. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (9.60). JSW

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restaurants

International fast-casual restaurant concept now in Tallinn! Best venues in town!

ALA CARTE PIZZAS, PASTAS & SALADS

starting from

4 EURO
Pizza
Below you'll find a list of venues that specialise in pizza, however, if you're looking for a 'special' pizza you may visit some of the Italian restaurants in town, which usually make an even better pie.

TALLINN STOCKHOLM LONDON VIENNA AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG COLOGNE BUDAPEST ISTANBUL

Ombra C-2, Kullasepa 4, tel. (+372) 641 52 21, info@

ombra.ee, www.ombra.ee. The idea behind this Italian place is simple - to offer delicious, but simple Italian cuisine for affordable prices to people who like to relax and enjoy life. The atmosphere is stylish but equally relaxed and the friendly staff are also quite happy to make sure you feel at home. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (9.60). JW

Pulcinella C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 682 54

37/(+372) 56 22 96 91, info@pulcinellaitalianfood.com, www.pulcinellaitalianfood.com. Certainly one of the few actual delights we've had the pleasure of reviewing as of late, this very authentic, Neapolitan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give you the complete experience. From the native chefs and owner to the sprawling miniature scene complete with running water, we quite enjoyed the ambiance. The cuisine was also delightful and our pizza one of the best we've had in Tallinn. There are so many layers to explore at Pulcinella and we look forward to going back to discover them all. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (12). JXS

Peetri Pizza B-4, Mere pst 6, tel. (+372) 661 61 81,

pizzameistrid@hot.ee, www.peetripizza.ee. A local favourite, Peetri offers pizzas that we find - well, passable. Apart from this fairly simple caf, it has various branches and stands all over town just in case you need that cheesy fix. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (5). S

Pizza Americana D-2, Mrivahe 2, tel. (+372) 644

Vapiano B-3, Hobujaama 10, tel. (+372) 682 90 10, foo-

88 37, merje@americana.ee, www.americana.ee. Try any of the 60 varieties of thick tasty pizza at this little corner pizzeria and you'll be immobilised for days. Lunch specials for 5.45 and 8.65. Delivery 4.50. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. TJLVS

rum@vapiano.ee, www.vapiano.ee. Vapiano is a European chain of self-service, market concept restaurants where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you arrive at the door you're greeted and given a plastic card, then proceed to the area of your choice to place your order (pasta, salad/antipasti or pizza) and the items are charged to the card. The majority of mouth-watering food items and fresh, that's right - fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesn't take too long either, but you'll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your pie is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable and the food - bella! QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Also at: D/E-3/4 Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. 628 59 99. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (6). UW

Pizza Grande C/D-2/3, Vike-Karja 6, tel. (+372)

641 87 18, info@pizzagrande.ee, www.pizzagrande.ee. Grande's signboard proudly displays the flag of that great pizza-making nation - Norway. Huh? Anyhow, the pizza in this cellar caf is fairly tasty, and comes in three sizes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6.40). JS

Pizzeria al Sole C-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 611 76 17, alsole@

viruinn.ee, www.viruinn.ee. The classy, little pizzeria attached to the Viru Inn's al Sole restaurant uses an authentic, wood-burning oven, and the result is fresh and tasty. Pizzas run 5.10 - 9.60. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. J

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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restaurants
Japanese
Sakura E-3, Sakala 20, tel. (+372) 648 44 77, info@
restoransakura.ee, www.restoransakura.ee. This reincarnation of 'Sakura' was overall quite satisfactory. Although we did not see anyone working here of Japanese ancestry, the chefs that currently staff it probably learned a thing or two from the former head chef from the island of Nippon. You can find all manner of sashimi, nigiri, maki as well as some hot Japanese specialities to round it all out. We quite liked everything we had and the service, at least on that day, was efficient and came with a smile. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (5.40). PT6LVBSW

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Silk C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 648 46 25, silk@silk.ee,

www.silk.ee. Just off the square, this sleek and trendy sushi spot has made a big splash with those who are willing to spend. All varieties are available - maki sushi, baked sushi, spicy sushi, etc. Eight-piece maki dishes generally run1.60 - 6.07, while larger assortments go from 14.70 - 31.30. Other Japanese dishes are also available in the tasteful, black-lined restaurant. You can even order sushi online and have it delivered to your hotel. See www.silk.ee for more details. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 15, tel. 661 60 99. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (8.95). JW

Sushi
Sushi is currently quite popular in Tallinn these days and the number of places that offer the Japanese street food have sky-rocketed. Here is a list of just some of the many places around town offering sushi these days.

Silk Sushi Bar C-4, Viru Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, (first

floor), tel. (+372) 610 15 81, info@silk.ee, www.silk. ee. The newest addition to the Silk sushi family is located conveniently in a shopping centre. Eight-piece maki run 1.90 - 12.45, nigiri 1.90 - 3.85, and combos range 14 - 31.30. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. JUSW

Sushi Cat H-3, Roosikrantsi 16, tel. (+372) 682 52

33, info@sushicat.ee, www.sushicat.ee. The weird and wonderful world of Japanese pop culture roars at Sushi Cat, a bright, upbeat caf where the dcor, and even the waitresses, are done up like naughty/sexy manga characters. Settle into a pink seat and watch the bewildering music videos. It's far more casual and affordable than its rivals - the sushi comes in sets ranging from 'kitten' (3.90) to 'lion' (12.80), all of which include green tea and miso soup. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. T6VSW

Sushihouse D-3, Estonia pst 9 (Solaris Centre), tel.

(+372) 682 57 77, toomas@sushihouse.ee, www. sushihouse.ee. Located in the sparkling Solaris centre and the recipient of a silver spoon gastronomy award, this sushi bar presents five-piece maki ranging from 1.80 - 4.28, nigiri 0.77 - 2.56, and combos 4.45 - 22.69. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. JSW

Zebra Caf G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372) 610 92

30, info@zebracafe.ee, www.zebracafe.ee. A little on the pricey end of the chopstick but very professionally prepared, this trendy lounge restaurant offers up eightpiece maki for 6.70 - 15, nigiri 1.90 - 4.15 and combos 19.80 - 35.45. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. VS

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restaurants
Meaty choices
Grillhaus Daube D-2, Rtli 11, tel. (+372) 645 55 31,
daube@daube.ee, www.daube.ee. A huge step up from the typical throw-the-pork-on-the-fire grill house, Daube is a roomy, two-floor affair decorated in a warm style that's the very definition of 'smart casual'. Expect smiling service and happy tastebuds. Find it in a nicely redone little house just off Harju street. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (11.20). JIS

Medieval
42 27/(+372) 55 51 45 17, reser ve@maikrahv. ee, www.maikrahv.ee. Named for the 'May Count' of Tallinn's medieval days of yore, this respectable establishment hidden under Town Hall Square hints at old-style regality all the while providing a decidedly modern and down-to-ear th dining experience that won't bust your budget. The menu is international, dominated by fillets with a couple of pastas thrown in for good measure. Delicately prepared food and professional service made the experience come off without a hitch. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14.40). TJEBS

Maikrahv C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631

Hopner C-2/3, Vanaturu kael 3, tel. (+372) 641 83 58,

hopner@hopner.ee, www.hopner.ee. Given the tiny sign, it's easy to walk right by this historic little cellar restaurant just off Town Hall Square, but perhaps you shouldn't. The new owners have revived the place as a grill restaurant and the focus is meat, meat and more meat. Prices are still a little high compared with the overall pub-like quality of the dishes, but it's par for the course given the location. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (14.40). J

Olde Hansa C-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20,

reserve@oldehansa.ee, www.oldehansa.ee. Many frequent travellers would say that you haven't really been to Tallinn unless you've visited Olde Hansa. This Mecca of mediaevalism in the heart of Old Town doesn't just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully-researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music. Chamber musicians round out the ambience every night of the week. Make sure to check out Olde Hansa's Waggehus located just around the corner at Vanaturu Kael 8. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (13). J6UIEBS

Munga Kelder C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 46 14,

mungakelder@gmail.com, www.mungakelder.ee. Overtly geared toward tourists, the Monk's Cellar is essentially a basement bar turned upscale by the clever use of table linen and glasses. Meat and fish dishes are served up along with awful, saxophone versions of 70s hits. The salmon in foil was mediocre and the service indifferent. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (11.80). JI

Oliver C-3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 630 78 98/(+372) 53 47

47 41, info@oliver.ee, www.oliver.ee. A diligent, carved wooden waiter spends all day long on Viru tnav trying to entice people into this cellar restaurant, where meaty items like entrecote and steak dominate the menu. Other choices such as a vegetable wok are available to the less protein inclined. We've heard a few good reviews about the food and service as of late and the kids play area and eight-page children's menu certainly make this a good stop for families. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (16). TJUIESW

Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 68 00,

Revalia Grill House C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372)

641 21 83, info@restaurantrevalia.ee, www.restaurantrevalia.ee. With its enviable location right on Old Town's main square, Revalia is never wanting for customers. The interior dcor makes it look a bit like an art shop, but there's no mistaking the menu - tenderloin steaks and other grill items of the type that are popular around this part of Europe. Crepes available too. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (16). TJUSW

peppersack@peppersack.ee, www.peppersack.ee. Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medievalness. The menu is European-based and fun-loving, with clever choices like Lady Margareta's weakness (chicken fillet) and Mansion Lord's contemplation (duck fillet). The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch. From Tues-Sat at 20:00 there's a theatrical sword fight on the staircase, on Fridays and Saturdays followed by Oriental dancing. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (10.85). TJEBS

Steakhouse Liivi C-4, Narva mnt. 1 (ground floor of

post office), tel. (+372) 617 70 55, info@steakhouse. ee, www.steakhouse.ee. The Steakhouse's odd location inside the Soviet-era Central Post Office building and its early nineties dcor leaves a little to be desired, regardless of the fact that they have quite an extensive menu loaded with beef. The food, which reminded us more of a glorified pub meal is nothing fancy, nevertheless our steak was first-rate, even if we did pay through the nose for it. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (12.80). PTUXSW

Gastropub
Clayhills Gastropub C-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372)
641 93 12, clayhills@clayhills.ee, www.clayhills. ee. The first of its kind in the Baltics, Clayhills Gastropub has raised the bar high. With executive chef Riho Heinmets (formerly of the Three Sisters) at the kitchen's helm, the fresh cuisine is more along the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of a pub. Fortunately you won't have to pay Michelin level prices. The rich interior is heavily garnished with leather and the cellar is well stocked with quality beers and wines alike. The service also comes with a smile and the atmosphere is brimming with warmth. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (9.60). J6EW

Tommi Grill Metro C-4, Viru vljak 2 (Metro Plaza),

tel. (+372) 662 20 99. This oddly located grill actually surprised us - and in a good way. Although we had to order at the bar, service was snappy, of the friendly variety and the food was overall to our liking. We suggest you stick with the grilled meat choices though as it seems to be what they do best. Keep in mind that they can get busy during lunch hour.QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. J

NEW

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restaurants
Trendy home-style
The newest category of eateries to hit the Tallinn dining arena sees the combination of trendy elements, homestyle cuisine and down-to-earth dining all rolled into one. A fresh alternative to the ever present pub scene.

Mediterranean
Sisalik B-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 646 65 42, sisalik@
sisaliku.ee, www.sisaliku.ee. The lizard (Sisalik) indeed is crawling with the little scaly guys, well, most of the reptiles here are of the plastic persuasion, but they actually do have a terrarium in back with some living breathing representatives as well. Regardless of their fascination with scaly creepy crawlers, this Mediterranean-style cellar restaurant certainly aims to please - and they do on most counts. We do however have qualms with the fact that they charge extra for a side dish when the mains aren't exactly inexpensive. On the plus side, the service was excellent and they do offer ice-water and toasted flat bread at no charge. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (11.80). TJ

Kohvik Kompott G-4, Narva mnt 36, tel. (+372)

641 60 15, kompott@kompott.ee, www.kompott. ee. Located just on the edge of the beaten track in the direction of Kadriorg, this eatery combines just the right amount of trendiness with a retro look and feel. Many of the dishes are also something of a hybrid, between the quite plain and fresh - and are even occasionally organic. Overall we quite liked it, but it did fall just a little short of the mark and the prices were a tiny bit high considering the location and the size of the dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTW

Middle Eastern
Bazar H-1, Tulika pik 3/Madara 14, tel. (+372)
660 93 77, bazar@bazar.ee, w w w.bazar.ee. This restaurant provides just the right touch of exotic, but its enormous popularity is probably down to the sheik-sized portions of Arabian dishes and kebabs served here. It gets crowded on weekends, so make reservations and don't be surprised if flagging down a waitress takes a little effort. They've also got water pipes available for anyone wishing to complete the experience. The last time we popped by the menus were in Estonian only, however the staff did speak English. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (5). LEX

Kohvik Moon G-3, Vrgu 3, tel. (372) 631 45 75,

kohvik@kohvikmoon.ee, www.kohvikmoon.ee. Caf Poppy is one of Tallinn's hidden gems - and quite literally so, in fact if you didn't read about it in our guide you most likely wouldn't find it at all. Expect stylishly prepared hautehome cuisine for prices much lower than the majority of other establishments in its class. Oh, and the home baked bread was so good that we would probably do some very bad things to have it again. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (10). T6SW

Mamo H-3, Liivalaia 14, tel. (+372) 682 59 77,

mamo@mamo.ee, www.mamo.ee. Brought to you by the same imaginative soul who envisioned the fantastic Olde Hansa concept, this caf takes the cake - actually it gives the cake. We were super impressed by the fresh sandwiches, wonderful desserts, the stylish atmosphere and the attention to detail. We will certainly be back for Ma-more. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. TSW

El Pasha C-3, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 609 64 03,

nAnO B-3, Sulevimgi 5, tel. (+372) 55 52 25 22,

priit@nanohouse.ee, www.nanohouse.ee. The brainchild of an Estonian fashion icon and her DJ husband, nAnO is a quaint little bohemianesque place that's both warm and friendly. It's hard to pin down the exact style of food other than to say it's home-style, fresh and healthy. You won't find any heavy meat dishes here, nor will you find beer - there are enough places in Tallinn that serve those kind of things. They don't currently have any solid opening hours, but if you want to experience the lovingly prepared food and warm atmosphere be sure to make reservations in advance. Q TJ6NW

info@elpasha.ee, www.elpasha.ee. The only Middle Eastern establishment of note in Old Town, the Egyptian owned El Pasha or simply the Pasha serves up a plethora of delightful dishes including an assortment of vegetarian items. The servers were a little overwhelmed the last time we stopped in, but the food was fresh and rather tasty and they certainly aimed to please. Check out the lounge bar upstairs. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (5.75). TJ6VXSW

Latin American
Cubanita G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel. (+372) 664 04
22, info@cubanita.ee, www.cubanita.ee. Given its size and snazzy decor you would expect this restaurant/caf/lounge to provide one with a culinary experience worth telling friends about - it does not. Where it does shine though is in the nightlife genre. They have an extensive range of cocktails, Cuban and otherwise, some great Latin-oriented live music from Thursdays to Saturdays and some decent appetisers to go with your drinks. Be sure to check their website for performance schedules. Q Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 00:00. 1st floor Deli&Caf open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (7). PEXSW

Our House (Meie Maja) G-4, Kleri 2, tel. (+372)

444 22 09, info@ourhouse.ee, www.ourhouse.ee. The concept behind Our House is to provide a place where the whole family can come to enjoy themselves. Imagine a dream home with a pub on one side, a restaurant complete with a personal chef on the other side and a large children's play area furnished with toys and cartoons. In the front you'll find a fish monger selling his daily catch and in the rear, a garden terrace complete with rocking chairs, benches, trees swaying in the gentle breeze and a friendly old lady - okay, maybe we're embellishing a little. Expect fresh, home-style food created with lots of heart and of course that home feeling. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (2.80). PT6VESW

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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restaurants
Russian
Balalaika H-2, Paldiski mnt 4 (Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 667 71 20, conferencespa@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com/ russian+restaurant/. This Russian restaurant located in the flagship Meriton hotel at the base of Toompea, offers up all the usual Russian fare you'd expect, such as caviar and blinis and the dishes are all prepared quite nicely. One thing though that sets Balalaika apart from the others is that they also offer a cold zakuska buffet, presented in an antique carriage from St. Petersburg - that, and the complimentary half-shot of vodka of course. Na Zdorovie! QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. (15.50). PULW nevskij@schlossle-hotels.com, www.nevskij.ee. Given the way the St. Petersbourg Hotel's high-class restaurant is decorated, it might very well be mistaken for Russian intellectual's sitting room, were it not for the fact that a smart waiter greets you at your table with a vodka and caviar menu. Classic aristocratic staples are on offer and are done in a way that shows a clever chef at work. We enjoyed our food, and the fact that the complimentary vodka shots seemed to keep coming. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (15.50). PJIESW

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Nevskij C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 65,

Tchaikovsky C-3, Hotel Telegraaf, Vene 9, tel. (+372)

Caf Pushkin C-4, Mere pst 5, tel. (+372) 631 36 36,

info@cafepushkin.ee, www.cafepushkin.ee. While other Russian places are geared towards tourists, Caf Pushkin is where the local Russians, including politicos and celebs, come to eat. The bliny (pancakes) are said to be the best in the city. A long list of other Russian favourites is on offer, including the triple ukha (fish soup) and the Boyar (rolled beef stuffed with cherries and walnuts). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. (9). JESW

600 06 10, tchaikovsky@telegraafhotel.com, www. telegraafhotel.com. Located in the beautifully renovated Telegraaf and much more opulent than most hotel restaurants, the Tchaikovsky is a luxury Russian-French-fusion affair dedicated to preparing culinary delights reminiscent of fine cuisines from a whole other era. Here you'll find flaky pastry crusts, succulent shrimps and fine wines fit for the Tsar, and if you're lucky he'll offer to pay as well. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (17). PJUILEW

Klafira C-3, Vene 4, tel. (+372) 58 37 73 33, info@klafira.

ee, www.klafira.ee. If it's an aristocratic Russian experience you're after, Klafira, strategically located on Vene tnav (Russian Street) is the perfect place. Beautifully decorated to take you back to the wealth of 19th-century Russia, the cosy, old style atmosphere and friendly service more that make up for the pricey food. All the favourite Russian delights can be found on the menu and a few more exotic ones for adventurous diners. Live Russian music will keep you entertained if your company isn't doing the job. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (14). J6ES

Troika C-2, Raekoja plats 15, tel. (+372) 627 62 45,

restoran@troika.ee, www.troika.ee. One of Tallinn's must-see cellar restaurants, Troika wows its clientele with a cosy, old-style Russian dcor and a singer who belts out folk songs from a balcony from time to time. (When choosing your table, you may want to consider just how close you want to be to this spectacle.) But the best thing about this place is the food - excellent bliny and pelmeni as well as a selection of traditional main courses. Great service. Book ahead. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. (12.50). JUIEX

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restaurants

Thai
Krua C-4, Vana-Viru 13, tel. (+372) 646 26 13, info@
krua.ee, www.krua.ee. One of the few truly Thai places in the city, Krua disappointed us. Don't get us wrong, the food that we finally managed to eat, after a frightfully long wait, was quite fresh and decent - but the service was a nightmare and it appeared that the waitress we had was in fact 'newer' than the restaurant itself. Even our beer took over half an hour to get to us and after a few false food deliveries we were told that they had run out of spring rolls that we had ordered. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (11.50). JBSW lathai@villathai.ee, www.villathai.ee. A well-established favourite in the Kadriorg district just outside the city centre, the Villa is a quiet, comfortable affair. Sit with the ceramic elephants and drapery of the dining room or head to the bamboo-filled atrium with its gurgling fountain. Interestingly, the menu goes well beyond Thailand, encompassing Vietnamese, Indonesian, Malaysian and Tandoor dishes. Some dishes are on the heavy side. We liked the fish cakes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (8). TUSW

Spanish
Tapas Bar & Restaurant H-2, Paldiski mnt 4 (Meriton
Grand Conference & Spa hotel), tel. (+372) 667 71 10, grandhotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels. com. If you've ever been to Spain you'll know that tapas are a very important part of the easy going lifestyle there. Now, diners in Tallinn can also appreciate these little bite sized temptations (2.25 - 3.50), alongside a full bodied Spanish red, accompanied by well endowed blonde or in the company of good friends. If you'd rather not fill up completely on tapas, they've got a decent selection of other Spanish delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Also at: Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel, B-3, Pikk 29, tel. 664 88 03. Open 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (6.40). J6UILSW

Villa Thai G-4, J. Vilmsi 6, tel. (+372) 641 93 47, vil-

Tex-Mex
Amarillo C-4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 92 80,
amarillo.tallinn@sok.fi, www.amarillo.ee. Bright, friendly colours, hot (spicy) food, and a professional outlook set Amarillo a notch or two above most other Tex-Mex contenders. More Yankee choices like burgers and pizzas are as available as quesadillas and fajitas. The vast dining area and large kid's play corner, make this restaurant on the ground floor of the Sokos Viru Hotel a great choice for families, while two bars cater to an after-work crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (11.50). TULES

Theme restaurants
Korsaar C-2, Dunkri 5 (Beer House), tel. (+372) 666
8064, booking@korsaar.ee, www.korsaar.ee. Avast mateys! If you've ever dreamed of running away to become a pirate or a wench, now's your chance. This stunning pirate-themed restaurant goes way beyond anything we've ever seen in terms of attention to detail and authenticity. From gangplanks to shark tanks, this subterranean grotto has everything covered. The international food is equally fantastic, with leanings on the creole and seafood side of the port bow. Please note that due to the sometimes frightening nature of pirate business, parents should think twice before bringing children younger than 12 to Korsaar. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (19.15). PJXS

Cantina Carramba G-5, Weizenbergi 20a, tel. (+372)

601 34 31, restoran@carramba.ee, www.carramba. ee. Something this, well, Mexican is a surprise find out in the Kadriorg neighbourhood. One advantage Carramba has over its competitors, besides the inviting pueblo dcor, is the spice level - Carramba doesn't skimp on the peppers, and even the otherwise innocent-looking rice is fiery. The enchiladas, burritos, fajitas, etc that make up the menu might not be up to expectations. Among the appetisers, go straight for the hot wings. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (10.55). T6S

Le Chteau B-2, Lai 19, tel. (+372) 665 09 28, restoran@

Taco Express D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 682 55

chateau.ee, www.chateau.ee. Elaborately done up in the style of old France (think musketeers, etc), Le Chteau is of Tallinn's best-kept secrets. Essentially it's an elegant, candle-lit cellar full of heavy, wooden furniture and staff in 16th-century French garb. The real treat here though is the food - particularly the high-value lunch specials. If you come for dinner, be sure to try the soup, served in an enormous terrine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (10.55). JL

08, info@tacoexpress.ee, www.tacoexpress.ee. Beware of the hot sauce! It's twice as hot coming out. Although not overly authentic, Express certainly does fill a niche in Tallinn. They've got loads of pseudo Mexican choices available, in different combinations and with varying degrees of heat. There are also pizzas available, a fair amount of vegetarian items and a few breakfast choices, including the ever popular breakfast burrito. All aboard the Taco Express, let's see where it takes us. QOpen 07:30 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. (6.50). JSW

Turg C-2, Mndi 3, tel. (+372) 641 24 56, reserve@turg.

ee, www.turg.ee. The name in Estonian means market' and that's exactly what this theatricaly-decorated cellar restaurant looks like inside - a classic, outdoor market square, complete with overhanging eves, a tree, chirping birds and some faux produce. That doesn't mean you can haggle over menu prices though. The food on offer tends towards the Eastern European with a few Italian pizzas thrown in for good measure. For the frugal try the lunch buffet on offer Mon to Fri between 11:30 and 15:00. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (9.60). JBS

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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restaurants
Trendy restaurants
Museum C-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 646 09 01,
museum@museum.ee, www.museum.ee. Housed in a former fire-fighting museum, this sophisticated yet unpretentious establishment seems to be not quite as cool as it used to be. That being said, the last time we were in, we quite enjoyed our experience. The cuisine, with a heavy leaning towards Japanese and Mediterranean, was respectable and the prices, unlike many of those in the city centre, weren't so high as to force us to sell one of our favourite internal organs. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (11.50). J6UESW

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Upscale
Bordoo A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 55,
bordoo@threesistershotel.com, www.threesistershotel. com. Estonian for Bordeaux, the Three Sisters restaurant is in a class unto itself. The stylish interior combines a new world elegance with hints of its old world surroundings. Headed up by award-winning chef Tnis Siigur and his energetic team, the focus here is on fresh local ingredients brought to life with creativity and flavourful ideas. To top it all off, they also create their very own artisan breads, scrumptious marmalades and to-die-for desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22.35). J

Novell G-3, Narva mnt 7c, tel. (+372) 633 98 91,

katlin.tousme@rezidorparkinn.com, www.novell.ee. The Park Inn Central Tallinn's spiffy ground floor lounge restaurant makes its mark on Tallinn's culinary scene with an inventive menu. Items like duck leg confit with Gorgonzola potatoes, grilled beef with tomato and butter fish with potato cream can be enjoyed while sitting under a glass roof. Upstairs studios' are available for groups, and individuals on the go can grab items from the coffee shop also located on site. Open Mon-Fri 07:30-22:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (14). TULESW

Egoist B-3, Vene 33, tel. (+372) 646 40 52, egoist@

egoist.ee, www.egoist.ee. Take all trappings of an old-fashioned, high-class restaurant - the chandeliers, the antiques, the tie-clad diners - multiply the decadence by three, and you'll get some idea of what the award-winning Egoist is all about. The sister restaurant to Gloria, this exclusive establishment has an equally impressive menu, offering choices like lobster carpaccio, pan-fried foie gras and elk fillet noisettes. Book ahead, dress to impress and ring the bell to enter. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (25.55). J

Gloria D-2, Mrivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 00, gloria@

Park Lounge H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, Reval Park Hotel,

tel. (+372) 630 53 49, sales@parkhotel.ee, www. parkhotel.ee. More of an evening spot than anything else, the plush, cream-coloured chairs and stainless-steel floors make Park Lounge a stylish place to loaf. Somewhat hidden beneath the lobby of the Reval Park Hotel, the secluded spot has its own menu, as well as a separate area for fullfledged dining. The fare on offer includes Mediterranean and Estonian cuisines. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (15.35). TULW

gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. Gloria has been synonymous with class and style since it opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior, you'll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. In case you need more convincing, Cond Nast named Gloria one of the world's 100 best. We found our meal here a relaxing, well-orchistrated experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (21.70). TJLSW

Kuninga Restoran C-2, Kuninga 3, tel. (+372) 646 60

Platz B-4, Roseni 7, tel. (+372) 66 45 086, info@platz.

ee, www.platz.ee. Everything old is new again - or at least in the Rotermanni Quarter it is. It's there you'll find this stylish yet elegant eatery nestled into an old, industrial limestone building. The cuisine, artfully prepared by a son of Naples, is an innovative and fresh fusion of world flavours. The service is equally crisp but not too starchy. We quite enjoyed the tempura and the decadent desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (10). J6BW

08, info@kuninga.ee, www.kuninga.eu. This sparkling new establishment in Old Town is a caf slash restaurant and fills both needs quite nicely. The interior is a nice blend of antique and contemporary and the cuisine was also delightfully prepared - portion-wise perhaps more fitting for a supermodel than a hungry man though. Complimentary canap, home-made roll, hand-crafted goat's milk butter and a decent wine selection round out the experience. Desserts looked quite tempting as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23.00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19.15). PTJSW

Stenhus C-3, Phavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 80,

Ribe C-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 30 84, info@ribe.ee,

www.ribe.ee. We couldn't quite figure out what category this fine eatery should fall under, but that actually doesn't matter as the food and overall experience were excellent. The intriguing menu items are all artistically presented and the interior design is just pretty as punch. We found the portions a little on the slim side, nonetheless the ambience and friendly service made each of the small bites special. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12.80). TJ6

stenhus@schlossle-hotels.com, www.stenhus.ee. The Schlssle hotel's venerated cellar restaurant is an elegant refuge decorated with colourful swaths of cloth that bring to mind a fairytale castle. Everything on the menu is exquisitely prepared by a team of award-winning chefs, making it well worth the price. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (16). J6IXSW

Seafood
Fish & Wine C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 662 30 13,
gloria@fw.ee, www.fw.ee. With its polished design, this large restaurant looks more like a trendy lounge at first glance. The friendly table service, however, extends all the way to complimentary roll and olive oil. As the name implies, a selection of, mainly, fish dishes makes up the menu, and if you're stuck, the wines by the glass 'go with everything'. Be aware that the price to portion ratio is a little lopsided, thank-God for the free bread. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. (9.80). PJ6SW

Zebra Caf G-3, Narva mnt 7, tel. (+372) 610 92

30, info@zebracafe.ee, www.zebracafe.ee. One of a new breed of high-quality, casual gourmet restaurants that have recently blossomed in Tallinn. Zebra offers la carte dining with the option of a slightly cheaper cafeteria set-up, complete with freshly-baked pastries, desserts and a salad bar, all in one very slick, cool room. The service is excellent, and prices, while they might be a bit higher than elsewhere, are more than justified by the wonderful cooking. Dj's spin some hot tracks Friday and Saturday nights. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 23:00. (14). VSW

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fashion lives here

www.virukeskus. www.virukeskus com

Viru Keskus is the best lifestyle and shopping centre in Estonia. It is a magical fashion palace where everyday rules and routine has no power over you. Viru Keskus offers you everything to bring out harmony and pleasure in you. There is more than 100 shops, over 10 cafs and restaurants, biggest bookstore and largest beauty area in the Baltic countries. You can also find a trendy fitness club on the top floor of the centre. Best choice of different fashion brands, traditional fashion events and large range of artistic and cultural events offer exceptional enjoyment even for the most sophisticated taste. Viru Keskus locates in the heart of the city and is easy to access for pedestrians or drivers. There is a parking space for more than 450 cars and the only underground bus terminal in Tallinn.
Viru vljak 4/6 Tallinn

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CaFs
Mademoiselle B-3, Pikk 29 (Meriton Old Town Garden
Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 06, hotels@meritonhotels. com, www.meritonhotels.com. Considered for years to be one of Tallinn's best places to get a delectable dessert, this classic caf still lives up to its reputation. Along with the many calorie-laden treats on offer, you can also find a few decent savoury meals and a couple of breakfast options at each of the four locations around town. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Also at: A-3, Meriton Old Town Hotel, Lai 49, tel. (+372) 614 13 50. Open 10:00 - 15:00. Also at: H-2, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski mnt 4, tel. (+372) 628 81 55. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (6.40). TJSW

Maiasmokk C-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 40 79, www.

Classic cafs
The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. It's not that these places don't have ambience - they do, but they're more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in.

kalev.eu/maiasmokk/kohvik. Tallinn's oldest caf, the Sweet Tooth has been serving marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:00. J

Pikajala C-1, Pikk jalg 16, tel. (+372) 648 14 28, aylika1@gmail.com, www.pikajalakohvik.ee. There aren't too many places to grab a bite or a coffee when you reach the top of the hill that is Toompea, but this is one of them. A reincarnation of an old tourist trap of the same name has actually gotten much better and eating a light bite here won't break the bank. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. (11.25). JSW

Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Caf B-3, Pikk

30, tel. (+372) 644 45 30, anneli@anneliviik.ee, www. anneliviik.ee. Chocoholics beware! This little, Old Town caf features Anneli Viik's handmade chocolates, made on the spot and sold either by the box for take-away, or in smaller portions to accompany your coffee (or light food or cognac, etc). There's even a glass wall that lets you watch the chocolatiers do their stuff. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. J6USW

Reval Caf Vene 1 C-2/3, Vene 1, tel. (+372) 644

Kaevukohvik C-2, Rataskaevu 16, tel. (+372) 642 40

NEW

25/(+372) 506 17 00, info@kaevukohvik.ee, www. kaevukohvik.ee. Given the horrible lack of service, this was a bit of a disappointment really. The atmosphere was certainly stylish, the cuisine was also laid-out quite nicely - but the prices were rather lofty in our honest opinion. Sides also need to be ordered and indeed paid for separately, something that always leaves us with a bad taste in our mouths. Could be a decent spot for a coffee and dessert, but you probably wont catch us in Kaevu again. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. J

64 73, info@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. It's the one with the giant mocha pot. The atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable, the perfect spot to lounge out with a cup of joe and a friend. If you'd rather have a read with your coffee, head upstairs where there's less noise. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:30 - 21:00. (5.10). J6UIESW

Saiakang C-2, Saiakang 3/5, tel. (+372) 644 30 55,

www.saialill.ee. One of the last of Old Town's simple and cheap cafs. Here you'll find plenty of salads, pastries and frugal, old folks. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. From May open: 09:00 - 20:00, Fri-Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (3.60). J

Kohvik Julius D-2, Harju 40a, tel. (+372) 55 51 57

36, kohvik@gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. With its perfect views onto the park and bustling Harju street, this little caf serves up some great Viennese coffee, pastries and some excellent people watching possibilities - both in summer and winter, thanks to being right next to the ice rink. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (7). JB

Bakeries
Loads of little bakeries and cafs around town churn out tempting pastries and provide coffee and tables to let you indulge on the spot. Here we have listed just a few that specialise in baked goods.

Kohvituba B-2, Lai 26, tel. (+372) 508 60 68, info@

kohvituba.ee, www.kohvituba.ee. The things that make this tiny caf special are its minute proportions, its fresh cakes and ultra quaint and romantic atmosphere. It's the kind of place you'd want to bring Grandma after church or a friend you haven't seen in a while. The prices are quite reasonable and the sheer size of the coffee list is commendable. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JS

Karja Caf C-2, Suur-Karja 3, tel. (+372) 644 43 65, riina.kallis@mail.ee. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00.
JSW

Mademoiselle B-3, Pikk 29 (Meriton Old Town

Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 06, www.meritonhotels.com. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. JS

Pagaripoisid C-2, Nunne 11, tel. (+372) 641 67

00, tellimine@pagaripoisid.ee, www.pagaripoisid. ee. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JS

La Boheme G/H-2, Toompuiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660

07 11, laboheme@uniquestay.com, www.laboheme. ee. Nicely done up with stone walls and cheerful orange tables, this slick little caf is a great stopping place for big, fresh, inexpensive pastries. More exotic items like passion fruit milkshakes and couscous salads are on offer, and the aquarium counter is an interesting addition. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (10). TUSW

Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 69 95, peppersack@peppersack.ee, www.peppersack.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From May open 08:00 - 17:00. JBS tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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Fashionable
Tallinn's most en vogue cafs all offer full meals as well as the satisfaction that you're with the 'in' crowd.

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Stylish & Cosy

These classy establishments are best for long chats with friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your next novel.

Bonaparte Bistroo G-3, Narva mnt. 5 (The Foorum

Centre), tel. (+372) 682 50 24, bistroo@bonaparte.ee, bistroo.bonaparte.ee. This bright and cheerful establishment in the Foorum shopping centre brings with it all of the goodness you'd expect from the Estonian Bonaparte chain. Mouth-watering pastries, fresh daily dishes, delightful cakes and excellent coffee. Great place for a quiet chat or to hunker down with a book a just can't put down. Now featuring a vegan menu for those not in touch with their omnivorous ancestry. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. T6USW

Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.

bogapott.ee. Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea, the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway. Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this combination caf, art shop and ceramics studio. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JI

Bonaparte B-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, bonapar-

Caf More C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre). Owned

by one of Estonia's top cook-book authors and 'cheffed' by an Irish expat - this book store caf offers some inspired light-bites, fresh and tasty salads as well as some sinfully tempting desserts. Grab a book or your laptop and settle in for a while. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JSW

NEW

te@bonaparte.ee, www.bonaparte.ee. Nestled in a beautiful, 17th-century building, Bonaparte certainly has a refined atmosphere, but it's a casual and surprisingly affordable place to sip earl grey and sample the buttery croissants and other home-made pastries. Sit and watch the world go by, or check out one of the revolving art exhibits. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J6SW

C'est La Vie C-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48,

Spirit Caf B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 51,

info@kohvikspirit.ee, www.kohvikspirit.ee. Designers apparently couldn't decide if they were making a sushi bar or a living room, so this cushy caf/restaurant ends up with a feel that's both exclusive and comfy. A small selection of soups, mains and pastas is available, but mostly it's sushi here, with combos from 4.47 to 10.55. The food is tasty, the crowd is chic and the entrance is in the back - it's always better through the back door isn't it? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (11.80). 6SW

info@cestlavie.ee, www.cestlavie.ee. This swanky establishment's 1930's style interior will have you dancing the Charleston. The cuisine certainly has a French bent to it, and the romantic ambience makes this a great choice for a date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (5). TJ6UESW

Josephine C-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 641 82 91, pierre@

Wabadus D-2, Vabaduse Vljak 10, tel. (+372) 644 42

32/(+372) 510 07 57, wabadus@wabadus.ee, www. wabadus.ee. The newest incarnation of this eatery, formerly known as Moskva and Kultus, just happens to hit the nail right on the head - so to speak. From the clean interior design and 1930's inspired outfits to the delightfully prepared dishes and the snappy service Wabadus will transport you back in time. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:30. (10). JEBW

pierre.ee, www.pierre.ee. Brought to you by the same fine chocolatiers as Pierre located in the courtyard just down the street, the atmosphere at Josephine is quite a bit different a little swankier, and oh man, you have got to try the handmade chocolate. This is not a bad place to indulge your yourself in decadence. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JBW

Kehrwieder Chocolaterie C-2, Saiakang 1 (Raekoja

Plats), tel. (+372) 55 54 74 36, maili.tannenberg@kohvik. ee, www.kohvik.ee. One of the best cafs in town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cave-like stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent gourmet coffees, handmade chocolates and the Town Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned it can get crowded here. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. JSW

Soviet chic
Up for a nostalgia trip? Without really trying, some cafs have retained the essence of the USSR in all its tacky glory.

Matilda C-2, Lhike jalg 4, tel. (+372) 681 65 90, info@

matilda.ee, www.matilda.ee. A seething den of flowers and femininity, this cutesy little caf was once home to the medieval artist Michel Sittow and specialises in delicious cakes, such as the Pavlova tort and Marnier biscuit roll, all made right on the spot. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. J6SW

Energia Kohvik D-4, Kaubamaja 4, tel. (+372) 660

47 06. This busy caf next to a main trolleybus stop offers dim lighting, suspicious little sandwiches and a hideous interior. No wonder the Soviet Union was so feared. Bus your own tray. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Pierre Chocolaterie C-3, Vene 6 (in the courtyard), tel.

Narva Kohvik G-3, Narva mnt. 10, tel. (+372) 660

17 86, info@kohviknarva.ee, www.kohviknarva. ee. The heavy and somewhat overdone interior falls somewhere between cosy and ominous, but this oldtimer's continued popularity is probably down to sticking to the same formula: keeping everything simple and cheap. Peruse the attached bakery or just slip into the long, dark salon and brood. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

(+372) 641 80 61, pierre@pierre.ee, www.pierre.ee. People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style caf for two reasons: One is that it has its own master Chocolatier who cooks up truffles from scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere. Be warned that seats fill up fast and that during slow times they occasionally close a little early. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JBW

Reval Caf Mrivahe 14 D-2, Mrivahe 14, tel. (+372)

641 81 00, info@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. The modish combination of jagged, medieval brick and cushy furnishings could only work in a place like Tallinn. Fine for intense philosophical debates or dessert. If debating has gotten you truly hungry, check out the restaurant in the back. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. (9.60). TJ6UILXSW

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One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign visitors, this just means theres more variety on offer. This section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that suits your mood, whatever that may be.

Hell Hunt B-3, Pikk 39, tel. (+372) 681 83 33, hell-

Expat hangouts
Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these bars and pubs are where Tallinn's expats, and more than a few tourists, tend to congregate.

hunt@hellhunt.ee, www.hellhunt.ee. If you just want to grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, Hell Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your best bet. An open, comfortable drinking establishment with a strong sense of style, it pulls in the locals by the droves with its no-nonsense atmosphere. While here, try the pub's own brand of light and dark beers (brewed in Viru lu). Good, cheap food too. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. Age restriction 18+. J6IEXW

Molly Malone's C-2, Mndi 2, tel. (+372) 631 30

Cafe VS E-2, Prnu mnt 28, tel. (+372) 627 26 27, info@
cafevs.ee, www.cafevs.ee. You will never be alone in this groovy well-established favourite bar of locals and expats alike, which interestingly doubles as an Indian restaurant. There's always a vibrant ambience which, depending on the time of day, will have you chilling on the comfy lounges or grooving when the DJs are in the house later in the evening. Head to the more intimate room downstairs for a bit of privacy. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. USW

16, www.mollymalones.ee. Right on Town Hall Square, this roomy Irish pub has become a popular meeting spot, particularly for male tourists and business travellers. In an effort to draw a younger crowd though, it has now been given a sports-bar makeover, with added TVs, etc. Live bands get the place buzzing on weekends, but you can find at least a small crowd here just about every night of the week. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JEXW

Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name) C/D-3, Suur-

Clayhills Gastropub C-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641

93 12, clayhills@clayhills.ee, www.clayhills.ee. Gastronomical delights by day and a great place to hang out by night, Clayhills offers up a healthy selection of local and imported beers, heart-warming and creative pub cuisine and a healthy dose of live music on weekend evenings. You'll also be able to catch the latest football match on the big screens or watch Tallinn pass you by from the great outdoor terrace during the warmer months. This is the evolution of the pub'. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. J6EW

Karja 4, tel. (+372) 641 15 15/(+372) 56 49 14 91, nimetabaar@hot.ee, www.nimetabaar.ee. In case the flags hanging out front don't give it away, Nimeta is the quintessential expat bar. At times it looks like something between a British stag party hangout and an expat boys' club, but a good number of locals and backpacker types make it more interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. A good place to watch sports and/or eat pub food. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. Age restriction 18+. JUXW

Tonic D-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 680 76 17, www.

tonic.ee. The pub formerly known as Nimega (The Bar With a Name), is still a very lively locale on Old Town's main bar street. This nightlife reincarnation hopes to attract a slightly more urbane crowd than those who used to come here for cheap drinks. The air here is still generally one of boy-meetsgirl and on weekends, the little dance area in back sees plenty of action. QOpen , Mon, Tue 11:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 07:00, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. JXW

Cigar lounges
Puff to your heart's content in these highly urbane shop/lounges.

Chicago 1933 C-3, Aia 3, tel. (372) 627 12 66,

info@chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. This is handsdown, the best cigar lounge in the city. The lounge comprises the entire upstairs floor of the restaurant, contains a walk-in humidor, a copious amount of fine cigars and more cognac than could kill the entire line-up at the Kentucky Derby - that's horses and jockeys. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JUXSW

La Casa Del Habano C-2, Dunkri 2, tel. (+372)

644 56 47, lcdh@havanas.ee, www.havanas.ee. Owned by Estonia's exclusive Cuban cigar distributor, this beautiful, casual Afro-Caribbean-style lounge has comfy chairs and a warm look. It's a sensible place to stop for a Cohiba or a cup of Cuban coffee at the beginning or the end of your evening out. Friendly, professional service. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JXW

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Estonian style
If you're looking for a bit of local flavour, try these.

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How to toast in Estonian

If you want to get in good with the locals, it never hurts to learn how to toast in the national language. Luckily its fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clinking their glasses and saying Terviseks (health). Its crucial, however, that you look your drinking companion in the eye just as your glasses are clinking. If you miss this step, the toast doesnt count and youll have to start all over!

Hellemani Krts C-3, Mrivahe 50, tel. (+372) 646 43

33/(+372) 56 67 43 65, helleman@helleman.ee, www. helleman.ee. For some good-old-fashioned hospitality, attentive service and a fantastic location, the Hellemani, which is tucked inside the base of a fortification tower, impressed us. Great for groups or just a couple of friends who want a beer and snacks, the home-style food was simple but fulfilling. Oh, and if you're looking for a modern rendition of a tin battle helmet it's yours for just 32. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (6.40). JSW

Traveller's Pub and Club (Seiklusjutte maalt ja merelt) H-4, Tartu mnt. 44, tel. (+372) 601 07 62,

Karja Kelder C/D-3, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 644 10

08/(+372) 644 65 87, karjakelder@hot.ee, www.karjakelder.ee. A well-loved Old Town pub with a more relaxed, local feel than its expat-oriented neighbours, Karja Kelder is definitely one to seek out. The variety of cheap beer (and food) makes it a hit, as do the occasional live bands. One caveat is that it gets crowded in the evening, necessitating a totalitarian coat-check policy. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (5.10). JESW

info@seiklusjutte.ee, www.seiklusjutte.ee. Named for Estonia's favourite collection of adventure stories, this popular local has a warm, airy, lodge-like feel - a sharp contrast to the nearby market area. There are plenty of maps and globes here to help you plan your expedition to Danger Island, or the Centre of the Earth or wherever. Big-screen TV and comfy chairs. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (6). IESW

Krts Inn Krug C-2, Raekoja plats 1 (Town Hall), tel.

Valli Baar D-2, Mrivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 83

(+372) 627 90 20. Tucked into the corner of Tallinn's famous Town Hall, this teensy-weensy tavern has both a historic ambience and an enviable location. Better still, it's owned by Olde Hansa so it's guaranteed to be a great locale to grab a soup, pastry or a pint of 'mead'. All drinks are 2, food is 1 and brine pickles in the barrel are FREE! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. JB

79. The Valli is definitely one Tallinn establishment you need to check out. Let's just say that it is so full of local colour', it even had a documentary made about it recently. It's also a well known fact that attractive blondes often head here for the house speciality 'Millimallikas' cocktail before trawling for men over at Club Holly wood. This bar undoubtedly makes it seem cool to be a dirty old man. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JE

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Live entertainment
Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in particular are known as venues for live music. Caf Amigo (see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonia's best acts.

Bars & Pubs

Beer House C-2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, info@
beerhouse.ee, www.beerhouse.ee. So, how much German oompah music can you stand? Just teasing, they do play other beer-drinking favorites as well. This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn. That said, the sprawling restaurant just off Town Hall Square is also Tallinn's only microbrewery, serving seven very decent inhouse varieties. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PJEBXS

Chicago 1933 C-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66,

info@chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. For some of the finest live blues this side of... well - Chicago, you can check out this swinging establishment just around the corner from the Viru Gates. The interior is all decked out in rich, dark wood and filled with large booths just like they have in the 'Windy City'. There's a strict 'no firearms allowed' policy though, so make sure you check your guns at the door. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (14). PJUEXSW

Drink Bar & Grill D-3, Vike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 644

94 33, info@drinkbaar.ee, www.drinkbaar.ee. It's evident there's a passion for beer culture here, not only its name Drink' but overall, offering natural beers, a special 'house brew', unusual imports, regular interactive beer lectures and even organic ciders. On a typical evening you'll find a lively bunch of patrons from all over the world; backpackers, travellers, locals and ex-pats all seem to congregate here. Whatever category you might fit into, you'll be sure to have an enjoyable experience, drinking or otherwise. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. J6IXW egiid@hot.ee. Students in particular seem to be drawn to this simple, unassuming bar with oversized tables and cheap drinks. Kompressor is also locally famous for its excellent pancakes, which are both cheap and filling. Kitchen closes at 22:00. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. JN

Clazz C-2, Vana turg 2, tel. (+372) 627 90 22,

clazz@clazz.ee, www.clazz.ee. Not only is Clazz a great place to grab a bite all hours of the day or night, it has quickly turned into one of the most happening spots in town for live music - practically every night of the week! Expect a wide variety of local and international performers, with styles ranging from jazz to Latin and everything in between. Q Open 17:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. From April 15 open: 11:00 - 03:00, Sun-Mon 11:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JUEBW

Kompressor C-2, Rataskaevu 3, tel. (+372) 646 42 10,

Drink Bar Comedy Night D-3, Vike-Karja 8,

tel. (+372) 644 94 33, info@drinkbaar.ee, www. drinkbaar.ee. Ever y second Wednesday of each month is Comedy Night at the Drink Bar and we quite enjoyed ourselves the last time we were there. There were of course a few mandatory groans mixed into the stew pot of chuckles, but the atmosphere was all good - so too the hearty pub favourites. They bring in comedians from all over Northern Europe to round out a few regular expats and a handful of Estonian comics. Be sure to show up earl y as it tends be standing room only by the time 20:00 rolls around. Q Admission 5. JXW

NEW

O'Malleys C-3, Viru 24, tel. (+372) 631 31 36, www.

omalleys.ee. Though strewn with off-the-shelf Irish dcor, O'Malleys' character seems mostly derived from its high-traffic location at the foot of Viru tnav. It's often packed by a transient, motley crowd of tourists and locals, many drawn in by the karaoke or sports events shown on the large-screen TV. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. Age restriction in the evenings 18+. J6UXW

Shooters C-2, Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 600 22 20, info@

Rock Cafe H-4, Tartu mnt 80d, 3rd floor, rc@

shooters.ee, www.shooters.ee. As the name quite obviously implies, Shooters is pretty much all about the booze. Add to that its location on one of the busier bar streets in Old Town and the ongoing special of 5 shots for 5 and ding-ding-ding, we have got ourselves a winner - or a lot of losers depending on your perspective. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. JEW

St. Patrick's C/D-2, Suur-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 641 81

73, info@patricks.ee, www.patricks.ee. The name and dcor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinn's four St. Patrick's pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. The one here on Suur-Karja is the most famous, cleverly built into a spacious, medieval hall. All offer decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always free. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: D-2, VanaPosti 7, tel. 631 48 01. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: E-2, Prnu mnt 20, tel. 669 18 16. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel: 664 04 43. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. J6W

rockcafe.ee, www.rockcafe.ee. Built into an old factory building just past the city's bus station, this minimalist, two-story rock club is decidedly raw and industrial. Live acts - mainly rock but sometimes blues or funk - are booked every weekend, and the place boasts one of the best sound systems of any club in Estonia. Enter the courtyard, go right and up the stairs. Please note that you may find them open only when there are live acts scheduled. See website for details. Q Open , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Admission 3.20 - 9.60. LEX

Von Krahl C-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372)

626 90 90, baar@vonkrahl.ee, www.vonkrahl. ee. The real name is 'Von Krahli Baar' but regulars just call it 'Krahl.' This down-to-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinn's alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends towards students, punks and artsy types. Come by during the day for good, cheap pub food. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JEW

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Wine bars
In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated, mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town.

Trendy lounge bars

Dress to impress and mingle with Tallinn's trendy club types or upwardly mobile elite. 56 90 37 03, getter@kokteilibaar.ee, www.kokteilibaar. ee. When we were last here we got the distinct feeling that this lounge was geared primarily towards the ladies. Perhaps it was the pink-clad waiters, overall butterfly motif, frou-frou menu items and more cock... tails than you can shake a stick at that made us feel this way, but if you want to spend the evening hanging out with a harem of beautiful dames this just might be the perfect place. Excellent service. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. Age restriction 18+. J6EW

Butterfly Lounge C-4, Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, tel. (+372)

Gloria Veinikelder D-2, Mrivahe 2, tel. (+372)

640 68 04, vein@gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. The shop section is charming enough, but wind your way to the back rooms to find one of the Tallinn's most elegant places to enjoy a good Merlot. An expert is always on hand to help you choose from the ca. 2000 wines, cognacs and whiskeys available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JIS

Negossiant B-3, Lai 42, tel. (+372) 642 40 37,

vein@negossiant.ee, www.negossiant.ee. Offering a huge selection of fine and rare wines, Negossiant, which doubles as a wine shop, is the perfect place for a romantic rendezvous. The knowledgeable staff will help you find the perfect wine to please your palette. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JSW

Deja Vu C-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 645 00 44, info@

Osteria del Gallo Nero C-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel.

(+372) 646 21 07, osteria@italbaltica.com, www. osteriagallonero.com. Personality is everything, and that's exactly what you'll find at this cosy Italian food shop/caf. The owners turn it into lively - albeit tiny - wine bar at night. They'll mingle with you and may even encourage you to sing along with the stereo. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. JSW

dejavu.ee, www.dejavu.ee. A super-stylish caf/lounge bar with tiny tables and multiple video screens ...wait, haven't we been here before? This one, at least, has a more exclusive feel than its rivals, and a famously long tea menu. Pop by for the many special events, often involving champagne or lingerie, on Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00, Wed, Thu 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Age restriction 21+. JEW

Embassy Lounge D-2, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 641

Wine Library C-2, Raekoja plats 8/Kinga 6, tel.

(+372) 641 12 20, info@winelibrary.ee, www. winelibrary.ee. Probably the best thing about this place right on Town Hall Square is just that - it's on Town Hall Square. Re-branded as a wine bar, this former caf does indeed have an extensive wine selection, but it's a little too small to be effective enough in this category. Not to say that you shouldn't stop in though, just that there are certainly better places in Old Town for the 'Wine Aficionado'. If it's a decent glass of fermented grapes your after and a good view, it certainly fits the bill. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. JBW

22 02, info@embassy.ee, www.embassy.ee. Coming here is like spending time in your best friend's living room, only it's equipped with an extensive cocktail list. The large, wall-mounted television playing a fireplace clip and the decorative wood logs stacked below might not actually keep you warm, but we assume the throw blankets draped over the comfortable leather couches are available for that purpose. For a more lively experience, stop by later in the night rather than earlier. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. JSW

Lai V Bar C-2, Lai 5, tel. (+372) 616 11 88, info@bar5.

NEW

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina B-3, Pikk 43, tel.

(+372) 631 17 55, texas@texas.ee, w w w.texas. ee. Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night, Tallinn's Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy countr y/rock or old blues played in the stereo. Monster por tions of fries will kill even the worst munchies. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. J6IESW

ee, www.bar5.ee. Tucked into an Old Town cellar on Lai street, this lounge/restaurant/bar is decently stylish but not overly pretentious in its presentation. Youll be able to grab a decent meal here, enjoy some live DJs on the weekend or just hang out with friends while enjoying a few cocktails. Sometimes simplicity works. QOpen , Mon, Tue 12:00 21:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. (8). J

Lounge 24 H-3, Rvala pst 3 (in Radisson Blu Hotel),

The Dubliner D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 644

46 94, dubliner@hot.ee, www.dubliner.ee. Part of a large Estonian chain of mediocre pubs, the most Irish thing about the Dubliner is the Guinness beer on tap and the picture of Bono on the wall. The microwaved garlic cheese bread, lacklustre service and soggy schnitzel left us feeling a little limp. Needless to say, we were rather unimpressed with our overall experience, but we hear that it can be a fun place for drinks and an inexpensive lunch - we'll let you decide for yourself. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (7). JSW

tel. (+372) 682 34 24, info@madissoni.ee, www.madissoni.ee. A full 90m above street level, the suave lounge on the Radisson's 24th floor is the place to come for drinks with a view. At night, the stylish, little bar turns its lights down low, letting the cityscape fill the windows and creating a romantic mood, but when the weather is warm, the outdoor terrace is the place to be. Cocktails and light meals on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. TB

Shimo C-2, Kuninga 1, tel. (+372) 648 42 61/(+372)

58 05 40 22, shimo.tallinn@hotmail.com, www.shimo. eu. This old haunt in new clothing has somehow lost that love and feeling - not a bad place overall but somewhat pointless in our eyes. The last couple of times we popped in, it was only us and them and even though we heard music, there was an awkward silence. We hope it changes because we certainly like the location. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J6IEW

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Clubs
Tallinn has quite a bit to offer on the club-scene. From tacky to cutting edge, you'll certainly find something that fits your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review.

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Caf Amigo C-4, Viru vljak 4, (Sokos Hotel Viru), tel.

Balou D-2, Rtli 18, tel. (+372) 53 70 60 82, balou@

balou.ee, www.balou.ee. While traversing the cobblestones of Old Town sometimes you end up stumbling upon, or down into, as is the case with this cavernous cellar club, something just a little different. The oasis of cheap thrills that is Balou, might not be as glitzy or glamorous as some of its contemporaries, but the crowd is sparkling and the beats spun here are cutting edge and highly danceable. Stay tuned for their caf to open in the beautiful medieval courtyard during the warmer months. QOpen , Thu, Fri 23:00 - 05:00, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon - Wed, Sun. Admission 0 - 8. JW

(+372) 680 93 80, amigo@amigo.ee, www.amigo.ee. Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo attracts a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party animals who tend to be slightly older than the typical club monkeys. The big draw here are the live rock and blues bands - the country's best-loved names - that play here almost nightly. Before bands come one, DJs spin all your favorite pop dance hits from the 70s-90s, and always manage to fill the floor with a cross-generational crowd. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission 5, Fri-Sat 8. Age restriction 21+. JULEXW

CatHouse C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (in Viru Centre), tel. (+372)

BonBon B-4, Mere pst 6e, tel. (+372) 661 60 80, info@

bonbon.ee, www.bonbon.ee. Often packed to the gills, the trendy BonBon is where you're most likely to find Tallinn's beautiful set. It's arguably the town's most exclusive club, thanks to a higher than average ticket price and a clubcardholders-only regime at the door when it's crowded. The establishment sports a classically decadent look, with huge chandeliers and a portrait of Bacchus watching over the dance floor. Italians seem to like it, if that tells you anything. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 8. Age restriction 21+. LXW

610 14 30, cathouse@cathouse.ee, www.cathouse.ee. Billed as the sexiest club in Tallinn, it just might be that. They have some pretty sexy events, which happen fairly regularly, including Playboy parties, topless DJs and the occasional sex show. The crowd is primarily Russian, but the Slavs often have a leg up on the Estonians in terms of the 'fun factor'. We had an all right time when we were last there, but for some reason couldn't keep our eyes off of the DJ - perhaps it had something to do with the breasts. QOpen , Wed, Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission 0 - 10. LXW

Club Hollywood D-2, Vana-Posti 8, bdg@bdg.ee, www.

www.inyourpocket.com

clubhollywood.ee. If there's one club in Tallinn that's guaranteed to be jumping, it's Hollywood, the mixing bowl for tourists and Tallinn's young (repeat, young) party crowd. The dance floor features three large overhead video screens and raised platforms where scantily-clad go-go dancers jiggle to the beat. Wednesday night is ladies night - free entrance for girls, which pretty much guarantees a good time for the lads. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 3 - 7. LEX

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Midnight munchies
If you're looking for food and drink after the pubs close, don't expect much of quality. Here are some options.

Hookah lounges
Popular C-3, Vana-Viru 6, tel. (+372) 641 45 65,
info@popular.ee, www.popular.ee. Though it's a bit smaller than the other fashionable lounges, Popular still manages to fill its little seats and sofas with a respectable volume of trend monkeys. They seem to be pulled in by the availability of tobacco-filled water pipes, as well as the DJs who play progressive music on weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JXW

Caravan Bistroo H-3, Maakri 19/21, tel. (+372)

6108 445, info@caravangrill.ee, www.caravangrill. ee. Located just a few steps from the Radisson Blu hotel, this is one of the very few places that offers a place to grab a seat and a nice warm bite at any hour of the night. They offer up a wide selection of pizzas, sandwiches and a few healthy selections too. Q Open 24hrs. (3.85).

Istanbul Caf D-4, Estonia pst 7, tel. (372) 55 59

Vesipiibu Kohvik (Water Pipe Caf) E-2, Tatari

79 15, info@cafeinstanbul.ee, www.cafeistanbul. ee. Dying for some dners done right? This kebab place is actually owned by real Turks who as it turns out also prepare the food. Here you can find mouth watering pitas stuffed with loads of meat and veggies basted in several thick sauces. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. S

Potato Planet C-2, Suur-Karja 11, tel. (+372) 55

51 55 37, info@potato.ee, www.potato.ee. Stumbling out of a club at 3am, you might happen upon this eatery whose main claim to fame is its massive baked potatoes embellished with your choice of hot or cold toppings. Combos include a baked potato, Panini style sandwich and a beverage, but we recommend you stick to the potato, which should be more than enough to fill you. QOpen 24hrs. (5.10). JS

1, tel. (+372) 56 46 46 06, andres@vesipiibukohvik.ee, www.vesipiibukohvik.ee. Certainly a tonguetwister for most foreigners, the vesi-piibu-koh-vik is quite a relaxing place to while away your afternoons, or evenings. Those evenings may even turn into weeks, months or years if you're not too careful. Actually, we just confused this place with an opium den, never mind. Live belly dance shows on weekends are certain to be a hit - get it? QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Age restriction 18+. LXW

Korter B-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372) 509 43 39, info@

Taco Express D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 682

55 08, info@tacoexpress.ee, www.tacoexpress.ee. This little 'tacos'n'more' joint offers up some pretty spicy offerings alongside a few decent pizzas and is altogether centrally located enough that your newly acquired jellolegs will probably even manage to bring you here from most of the establishments offering up liquid courage in the area. QOpen 07:30 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. (3.20). JSW

krtr.ee, www.krtr.ee. There's not a whole lot that sets Korter apart from other clubs, but as far as the music goes, you'll be treated to something other than the typical club bunny, top 40, mainstream noise that's so prevalent at the majority of nightspots. The sound system is pretty decent, the bass is pretty bumpin' and at least if you go late enough in the night the Estonians who frequent it will be shakin' it the best they know how. Expect sparse furnishings, a whack of stencilled-on flies and urban modernism. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 4.80 - 8. X

Panoraam G-3, Ahtri 10, tel. (+372) 611 61 44, info@

clubpanoraam.ee, www.clubpanoraam.ee. Panoraam is a two story disco a shor t walk from Old Town that places a heavy emphasis on its schedule of Estonian pop acts. When a good concert is on, it can draw hundreds of teenagers and a few lost and drooling easyJet travellers. Otherwise it's about as exciting as a hotel lobby in Oslo. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7-8. ULEXW

Club Mnt D-3, Mrivahe 22, info@clubmynt.eu,

NEW

w w w.clubmynt.eu. The former Spider club has new digs and a new name. Mnt, which means both mint and coin in Estonian, probably won't leave your breath fresh and tasty but certainly will leave more coin in your pocket as they offer up 1 drinks. Expect all the grown-up fun that a place offering such cheap drinks has to offer and a decent amount girls wearing the amount of clothes a girl who can only afford 1 drinks might be wearing. Q Open , Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon-Wed, Sun. Admission 10. J

Partei D-4, Rvala pst. 8, www.parteiklubi.ee. More of

NEW

Club Priv D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 80,

info@clubprive.ee, w w w.clubprive.ee. Along wi th BonBon, the smaller Priv is considered one of Tallinn's two trendiest club destinations. Heading here is a bit of a gamble though. If you hit it on the right night, it can be a very cool scene where you'll hear the region's best DJs, but on the wrong night it's just another club full of fog and foreigners - to avoid disappointment make sure to check the website for list of events and the night's musical orientation. Q Open , Thu 23:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon-Wed, Sun. Admission 7 - 14. Age restriction 20+. JEX

an underground place than a mainstream club, Partei packs in a typically younger, substance-fuelled crowd than the top-40 places. If you don't know what Breakbeat, Jungle, DrumnBass, Techstep, Atmo, Liquid, Neuro, Jump-Up and Darkside are then you will probably feel a bit like Alice in Wonderland - before she drank the bottle that had "drink me" written on it. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 5-8. J

Sossi Klubi H/I-4, Tartu mnt 82, tel. (+372) 601

43 84, sossi@sossi.ee, www.sossi.ee. To understand Sossi, just imagine it's a cruise ship, but without the shuffleboard. This is where Tallinn's older set, and intermittent Finnish tourists go when they feel the urge to get down and boogie. Expect live acts on Thu-Sat, mostly retro Estonian rock and pop favourites with wide repertoires and even wider bellies. QOpen , Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon - Thurs, Sun. Admission 6.40. LEXW

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Tapper J-2, Prnu mnt 158g, tel. (+372) 654 75 18,
info@tapper.ee, www.tapper.ee. This rock club on the edge of Tallinns centre holds regular rock nights, loads of local and international concerts, live events and even something called 'heavy aerobics' three times per week - which is certain to get a whole lot sweatier than the regular type of aerobics. We hear this club fits like a well worn leather jacket drenched in Jack Daniels, we'll let you see for yourselves. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. UEXW

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Gay nightlife
Tallinn's gay scene isn't a large one by any means, but that doesn't mean those looking to play with local queers will be left wanting. Here's the short and curly list of where to let it all 'hang' out, so to speak.

Caf Homme E-2, Prnu mnt. 19, homme@

cafehomme.ee, www.cafehomme.ee/cafe. One of the newest nightspots to hit Tallinn's gay scene is clean, friendly and features a couple of VIP rooms and a fantastic smoking room for those who like to indulge. Homme is certainly open to both sexes, but from what we hear it seems to swing a little more to the male end of the spectrum. The weekend entrance fee includes a welcome drink. Q Open , Wed, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission Fri-Sat 5. Age restriction 25+. J6X
NEW

NEW

Vabank D-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 660 52 99, info@va-

bank.ee, www.vabank.ee. The beautiful people, the beautiful people. The answer to the question "What is Vabank?" can be summed up fairly easily. Vabank is a large nightclub at the edge of Old Town, housed in what is a former bank where, currently, Tallinn's beautiful people hang out listening to rather unimaganitive house music and sipping on pricey cocktails. If that is your idea of a good time, so be it. A couple of cool features of note though, the VIP bedrooms off to either side of the dance floor and the private room downstairs in the former vault. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7.99. From 23:00 - 23:30, ladies free. J

Kapp D-2, Vana-Posti 8 (entrance from Mrivahe),

tel. (+372) 631 48 12, unicorn@kapp.ee, www. kapp.ee. Estonian for 'Closet', Kapp is kind of a reincarnation of the formerly fabulous Angel club. Filling a much needed 'hole' in Tallinn's gay night-life scene, this dinner lounge-cum-club, is certainly trendy and aimed at all gays and their hetero friends. The food is tasty, the cocktails are flowing and the music will keep you jumping. And we thought gays were trying to make their way out of the 'closet'. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. JUXW

Venus C-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 551 99 99, venus@

venusclub.ee, www.venusclub.ee. Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian dessert motif may give the impression of a palace decorator gone mad, but the overriding mood at Venus is of serious partying and flirting by a mixed foreign and Estonian crowd. The last time we popped in it was just around midnight and Venus was already bumping and grinding to full capacity - let's just say that we'll certainly be back. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Admission 0 - 7. Age restriction 21+. JXW

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Adult entertainment
Don't expect to partake from afar. If they perform on stage at all, dancers in Tallinn's striptease clubs typically visit the tables, getting up close and personal to collect tips, usually 3.00 - 5.00. While between performances on the stage, other dancers will try to coax you into buying an expensive ladies' cocktail', which is essentially a huge tip for sitting with you and making dull small talk. Gentlemen's clubs have recently been popping up everywhere in Old Town, here we have listed just a few of them.

Lady's Shadow C-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 631 49

00/(+372) 56 69 57 71, info@ladyshadow.ee, www. ladyshadow.ee. Probably one of the most beautifully designed adult entertainment spots in Tallinn, Lady's Shadow is brilliantly decorated in an 'Arabian Nights' motif and certainly reminds one of a stylish harem. The rest of the details are pretty much the same as the majority of these kind of clubs in the city - if you're lucky though, you'll meet a girl who is a smart business woman and will offer to do a floor show even if there aren't any scheduled. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. JX

Alcatraz Club A-4, Sadama 6/8, tel. (+372) 661 48 88,

Sinferno C-3, Viru 24, 2nd floor, tel. (+372) 644 05 38,

alcatraz@alcatrazclub.ee, www.alcatrazclub.ee. Although the name might not be the most original, (it seems that there's a club called Alcatraz in most major cities throughout Eastern Europe) the concept, at least as far as gentlemen's clubs go, is unique. Jail cages replace the traditional stripper pole, the space is larger than most and the dancers take turns wearing topless jailbird outfits to wait on the tables. The entrance fee is a little high, however, it does include a welcome drink. The booze is a reasonable price and from what we could see, the girls are certainly worth spending' some time with. QOpen 12:00 - 07:00. Admission 19.15. X

contact@infernoclub.ee, www.infernoclub.ee. Owned by a Scottish expat and attached, for the moment, to the nightclub Inferno - this is by far the best strip club experience we've had in Tallinn - but what sets it apart you ask? Well, several things. The admission is FREE, the drinks are reasonably priced, the dances are also relatively inexpensive and the girls are top-notch. In fact, the best pole-dancing show we've ever witnessed in Estonia happened here. There's also a water stage in the middle of the floor, if you want to shell out the 40 - and from what we hear it's well worth it. They haven't been open too long, but we expect it to get even better with age. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission free. Happy Hour 21:00-22:00 every night. JX

Burlesque Club C-3, Viru 18, tel. (+372) 642 00 42,

info@burlesqueclub.ee, www.burlesqueclub.ee. Expensive, not enough exposed flesh unless you pay a hefty sum for an extended private dance and the drink prices are outrageous. We like the concept - burlesque outfits and overall Parisian motif - but it's just too much for too little and the dances that we saw were quite uninspired to say the least. If you have money to burn and something against seeing nipples, this could be the place for you. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 9.60. JX

X Club D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 75/(+372) 631

05 74, fax (+372) 631 05 74, info@xclub.ee, www.xclub. ee. One of the more sophisticated clubs of this type in Tallinn, X Club is favoured by business types and high-end bachelor partiers. In addition to the main show room, an Oriental Room dazzles clients with belly-dancing and water-pipes. Even the medieval-style torture booth has nice dcor. Friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. A good place for group events like stag nights or political conventions. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 12.80. Age restriction 18+. JU

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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what to see
Given its age (over 800 years old) and its fascinating history, Tallinn is chalk-full of sights, museums and countless stories to help you pass the time rather interestingly. Here you'll find the must-sees and a whole lot more.

The Tallinn Card

www.tallinncard.ee. If you're trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city tourist office's discount card, the Tallinn Card, good for 6hrs (12), 24hrs (24), 48hrs (28), or 72hrs (32). For kids 6 - 14, the price is reduced by 50%. Cardholders get a number of free city tours, free admission to all the city's museums, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies, like chocolate-covered marzipan and admission to Club Hollywood. A very well written, fat booklet that comes with the card lists all the offers. There's also a sixhour version of the card (no sightseeing tour included) designed for cruise ship passengers and anyone else blowing through town. It costs 12. The card is sold in major hotels, at the Estravel office in the airport, at the harbour info desk, and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details, consult the website at www.tallinncard.ee.

The Old Town

Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, whats now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

Toompea Hill
Climb Pikk jalg and youll find yourself on Castle Square (Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century symbol of the Tsars power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn. 1/2) The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli viewing platforms are usually the first place that tourists want to see when they visit Tallinn. From here, sweeping views of the town, its red-tiled roofs, its towers, its walls and all of its charm open up. Get your camera ready.

C/D-1, Lossi plats 10, tel. (+372) 644 34 84, nevsky@hot.ee, www. hot.ee/nsobor. Toompea's dominating landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral named for the duke who attacked southeastern Estonia and Pskov in the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander III ordered the cathedral designed in 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail Preobrazhensky and it was completed in 1900. According to legend, the cathedral was built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered structurally as a result. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Admission free. J

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Dome Church (Toomkirik) C-1, Toomkooli 6, tel.

Viewing platforms (C-

Toompea Castle D-1, Lossi plats 1. Built on the spot

where the ancient Estonians' wooden fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinn's castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for the nation's foreign masters. Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonia's parliament. On one corner of the castle you can see Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour flag waving above it. It's commonly recognised that whoever's flag flies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see in front is actually a baroque structure added in the 18th Century. For a more castle-like view of this building, head behind it, down the opposite side of the hill. Q Admission only with a guided tour, Mon-Fri from 10:00 - 16:00. Call (+372) 631 63 45 for details. J

(+372) 644 41 40, tallinna.toom@ eelk.ee, w w w.eelk.ee/tallinna. toom. Also called St. Mary's Church, what might be the oldest church in Estonia was founded in 1219 by the first wave of Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates to the 14th century, but the interior was rebuilt after the 1684 fire. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this humbling location. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday service. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00 and in Latvian every third Sunday of the month at 13:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admission free. J

Kiek in de Kk (Peep into the Kitchen) D-1/2,

Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Built 1475 - 1481, this 45m, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV's cannonballs embedded in its walls to prove it. Medieval soldiers joked that from its top, they could see right into the kitchens of the houses below - hence the odd name. The tower now operates as a museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4.47. Joint ticket with Bastion Tunnels 8.31.

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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what to see
Lower Town
Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the world came in through the port and were traded on the market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However, Estonian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where they could eventually be considered free. C-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 644 46 06/(+372) 515 54 89, info@kloostri.ee, www.kloostri.ee. One of Tallinn's oldest existing buildings is this monastery founded in 1246. The part of the monastery administered by the museum includes the courtyard and surrounding passageways, where fascinating 15th- and 16th-century stone carvings are on display. To see the inner rooms, visit the Claustrum, listed next. Inner rooms only open from May 01 through September, or upon a prearranged booking.

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Dominican Monastery (Dominiiklaste klooster)

Dominican Monastery Claustrum C-3, Mrivahe

33, tel. (+372) 511 25 36, mauritanum@edu.ee, www. mauritanum.edu.ee. Here you'll find the monastery's inner chambers such as the monk's dormitory, priory, library, etc. One of the most interesting spots may be the downstairs room that houses the 'energy pillar' purportedly the source of a mysterious power. Open from May 15th through September, other times only for prearranged group bookings. QOpen 10:30 - 16:30. Closed Mon. Admission 3.20.

ket and a modern meeting place, Town Hall Square has been the heart of city life for eight centuries. With the Town Hall at your back, you can survey some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn. Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked with a compass rose, you can see all five towers from there.

Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats) C/D-2. As a medieval mar-

Town Hall (Raekoda) D-2, Raekoja plats 1, tel. (+372)

645 79 00, raekoda@tallinnlv.ee, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda. The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building of today dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530.This time of year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted halls and carved friezes of the historic interior. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3. From May to September 4. J C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 631 48 60, raeapt@hot.ee. One of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe is on Town Hall Square. No one knows exactly when it opened, but records show that the Raeapteek was already on its third owner in 1422. In Medieval times patients could buy mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment, and healthy folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine. Keeping up with the times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin and condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, displaying old medical instruments and other curiosities. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. J

Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek)

uliste 3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30/(+372) 644 99 03 tours, niguliste@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Tallinn's most famous work of art, a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke's spooky, 15th-century masterpiece Dance Macabre, has its home in this 13thcentury Gothic church-turned art museum. Destroyed during World War II and rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a 'silver chamber.' The church is also known for its acoustics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.20. J

Niguliste Church - Museum C-2, Nig-

St. Catherine's Passage (Katarina Kik) C-3. One of the prettiest little

Holy Spirit Church (Pha Vaimu kirik) C-2/3, Phavaimu

walkways in all of Old Town, the medieval St. Catherine's passage connects Vene and Mrivahe streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can find what's left of St. Catherine's Church (hence the passage name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of the passage, you'll find numerous artisan workshops, where you'll even get see them hard at work creating new items for you to buy. At any rate, we're sure you'll find Katarina Kik a pretty nice hike.

2, tel. (+372) 644 14 87/(+372) 646 44 30, tallinna.puhavaimu@eelk.ee, www.eelk.ee/tallinna.puhavaimu. This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well as an ornate, outdoor clock that's said to be one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and poor, and it was here that the first sermons were given in Estonian after the Reformation. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, in English 15:00 and in sign language second and fourth Sunday of the month at 12:00. Classical music hour Mon 18:00. Entrance fee 1.

St. Olaf's Church (Oleviste Kirik) B-3, Lai 50, tel.

(+372) 641 22 41, oleviste@oleviste.ee, www.oleviste. ee. St. Olaf's 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625. An old legend claims that the church was built to attract more merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered his name (Olev). In reality, the church took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Havaldsson. The first mention of the church dates to 1267, but the interior dates to 1840 and reflects that era's Historicist bent. Closed, except during services, from October through April. Q Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thurs 18:30 (prayer). English service Sun 17:00. Admission free. J

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what to see
Sightseeing tours
Audioguide Old Town Tour tel. (+372) 655 66 33,
info@audioguide.ee, www.audioguide.ee. On this selfguided tour, a specialised player provides customised narration (and sound effects!) on the history and architecture of key Old Town sights. Follow the map (provided) and set your own pace. There are also tours available for the Estonian Open Air Museum and the Tallinn City Museum. Q Available for rent at Tallinn Tourist Information Centre for 12.75 and at some large hotels. Free with Tallinn Card at the Information Centre. 24hrs, 22 for 48hrs or free for 24hrs with the purchase of a Tallinn Card. You can also rent the audio guide on iPod

Ghost Walk C-2, Raekoja plats 8 (in front of Vana Too-

City Bike Tours B-3, Uus 33, tel. (+372) 511 18 19,

mail@citybike.ee, www.citybike.ee. Now more than just bikes, Citybike offers tours on wheels and by foot. There are tours available for pretty much any interesting sight in and around the city. These include excursions of Old Town, including a visit to the tunnels, nature tours and trips to Pirita and Kadriorg. In addition to the daily 'Welcome Tours' of Tallinn, customised tours are also available. Tours leave from the City Bike office in Old Town, Uus 33. Hotel pick-up by arrangement. Ask about the cool and weird 'Conference Bike', it's an experience the whole gang can enjoy. Reservations for all bikes and tours are a must during the summer. Rental of hand-held GPS devices are also an option. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. 16 covers rental, tour and a refreshing drink. Free with Tallinn Card. J

mas restaurant), tel. (+372) 53 47 90 33, ghostwalk@ deluxeleisure.co.uk, www.deluxeleisure.co.uk/ghostwalk/. If you find more comfort in hanging out with the 'spirits of yore' as opposed to living, breathing human beings, you may want to check out this ghoulish tour. The streets of Old Town are indeed haunted and the 'Ghost Walk' is perhaps the best way to get to know some of Tallinn's infamous, 'former' residents. The Tour gathers in front of Vana Toomas Caf on Town Hall Square every night at 20:00 and costs 10. If you'd prefer a tour at a time of your choosing you'll need to book at least 24hr in advance and be prepared to pay groups rates.

Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour C-4, Mere pst. in front of the

Euroaudioguide info@euroaudioguide.com, www.

tallinnaudioguide.com. This audio guide allows the user to take themselves on a tour at their leisure, using an iPod, a map and their own two feet. The narration provides loads of interesting facts and exciting tales from Tallinn's past and it's available at many major hotels throughout the city and the Tourist information centre (see Basics section) Rent is 19 for

souvenir market, tel. (+372) 627 90 80/(+372) 53 055 055, info@citytour.ee, www.citytour.ee. This tour uses bright red, London-style double-decker buses to take tourists on several different routes through Tallinn. There's a Red Line covering the town centre and Kadriorg, a Green Line connecting to Pirita, the TV Tower and the Botanic gardens, and a Blue Line that takes you to the Estonian Open Air Museum. Information for each location is provided in ten languages by Audioguide (see above), and riders can hop on and off at any stop. Q One-day ticket 16; two-day ticket 20, three-day ticket 23. Free with 24h, 48h and 72h Tallinn Card.

Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour E-2, Roosikrantsi

19, Reisiekspert, tel. (+372) 610 86 16, incoming@ reisiekspert.ee, www.travel2baltics.com/default.asp/ ac/reisiinfot/id/177. The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus

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Churches
Tallinn's most famous churches have already been listed in the Old Town pages, but here are several more churches for readers with a special interest.

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646 40 03. Originally belonging to St. Michael's Convent of the Cistercian Order (located next door and now housing the Gustavus Adolphus School), the church was given to an Orthodox congregation in 1716. The church has retained its original form, save the addition of a Baroque spire in 1776 and exterior renovations in the early 1800s. The carved-wood iconostasis is one of the most impressive of its kind. Q Services in Estonian Sun 10:00. J tour of the city that covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer areas, and then a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours. Two to three tours daily; see website for schedule. Pick-up at major hotels. Q The tour costs 20. Free with Tallinn Card.

Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord (Issanda Muutmise Kirik) B-2, Suur-Kloostri 14-1, tel. (+372)

St Charles' Church (Kaarli Kirik) E-1, Toompuiestee

The Tallinn Free Tour C-2, Vana-Posti 2, tel. (+372)

55 54 21 11, tallinn@traveller.ee, www.tallinnfreetour. com. During the colder months, the Traveller Information office organises The Tallinn Free Tour'. Conducted by local youth, this walking tour includes exciting ghost stories, fun facts and history info all free of charge! They also offer a bunch of excellent and inexpensive tours that run regularly during the summer months but can also be booked in advance during the off-season. See www.traveller.ee for details. Q Tour lasts 2 hours and meets from Wed-Sat at 12:00 in front of the official Tourist Information office at Niguliste 2. Admission free.

4, tel. (+372) 611 91 00/(+372) 611 91 01, fax (+372) 631 13 63, tallinna.kaarli@eelk.ee, www.eelk.ee/tallinna. kaarli. Built in pseudo-Romanesque style on the site of a 17thcentury wooden church, Kaarli is an excellent example of the use of one of Estonia's greatest resources - limestone. In all, construction took 20 years (1862 - 1882), but painter Johann Kler completed Estonia's largest mural here, Come to Me, in just ten days. The church is also home to Estonia's largest church organ. Q Services in Estonian Sun 10:00 and Mon 13:00. Classical music hour on Tue 17:00.

St. John's Church (Jaani kirik) D-2, Vabaduse vljak 1,

Velotakso tel. (+372) 55 51 00 95, info@velotakso.

ee, www.velotakso.ee. Hey baby, wanna go for a ride? One of the more unique ways to see Old Town and the city centre is in the form of these bicycle taxis. You'll notice them parked on Viru Street, just inside the Viru Gates. The knowledgeable and indeed athletic youngsters will peddle you all over the medieval cobblestones and will even be able to offer you up some interesting factoids along the way. Q Runs from May - October. From 08:00 - 22:00 5.75/hr, from 22:00 - 08:00 9.60/hr. Tours also available, ask the driver for details. J

tel. (+372) 644 62 06, tallinna.jaani@eelk.ee, www.eelk. ee/tallinna.jaani/. This bright yellow landmark is one of two churches begun in 1862, testifying to Tallinn's population boom at that time. Built for a local congregation, St. John's boasts the first bell inscribed in Estonian. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, service with music each Wed 13:30.

St. Michael's Swedish Lutheran Church (RootsiMihkli Kirik) D-2, Rtli 9, tel. (+372) 644 19 38,
rootsi-mihkli@eelk.ee, www.stmikael.ee. Originally built as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Michael's also housed a spinning factory where 'fallen women' worked. Then it was transformed into a church for local Swedes. After serving as a weightlifting room under the Soviets, the church was returned in 1993 to the Swedish congregation, whose efforts to fund-raise for renovation of the church have paid off. Book in advance for museum tour. Q The office is open after the service and Mon - Thu 9:00 - 17:00, on Fri 9:00 - 15:00 Services in Swedish every Sunday 12:00 and in Finnish every Sunday 10:00. In German every 2nd and 4th Sunday.

The capitals curiosities

L Marks the Spot. Look for two long cobblestones that make the letter L in the corner of Town Hall Square nearest the Raeapteek. This spot marks one of the more bizarre tales from Tallinns medieval history. In the late 1600s, so the story goes, a priest named Panicke walked into an inn and ordered an omelette. What he got was hard as the sole of a shoe, so he sent it back. The next two that the waitress brought were even worse, and after an argument, the priest decided to make his point by killing the waitress with an axe. For this unusually violent crime, the priest was swiftly hauled out to the square and beheaded, and the spot was marked for the convenience of future tourguides.

St. Nicholas' Orthodox Church (Pha Nikolai Imetegija kirik) B-3, Vene 24, tel. (+372) 644 19 45. The present

Classical building dates to the 1820s, but a Russian Orthodox church stood here in the early 1400s. The young church houses many objects of artistic value predating it, including 16th-century icons. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Services in Russian Fri 17:00, Sat 10:00, 17:00, Sun 10:00.

St. Peter and Paul Roman Catholic Church (Rooma Katoliku Kirik) C-3, Vene 18, tel. (+372) 644 63 67,
peeter-pauli@online.ee, www.katoliku.ee. A relative newcomer as far as Tallinn's houses of worship go, this pseudo-Gothic church was built in on the former refectory of the Dominican Monastery from 1841 - 1844. Drop by to look at the interior. If the door is locked, go to the office and knock. QOpen 17:00 - 19:00, Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 10:00. Services in Estonian Mon - Wed & Fri 18:00, Sun 11:30; in Russian Sun 18:00; in Latin Sat 08:00; in Polish Thu 18:00, Sun 10:00; in English Sat 18:00.

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what to see
History museums
Estonian History Museum - Maarjame Palace (Maarjame Loss) F-6, Pirita tee 56, tel. (+372) 622
86 10, fax (+372) 644 34 46, post@ajaloomuuseum.ee, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. The branch of the Estonian History Museum that covers the 19th and 20th centuries makes its home in this landmark house on the road to Pirita. Originally a summer house, this pseudo-Gothic 'palace' housed the Dutch consulate, a posh hotel, future pilots and the Soviet army, before being given to the History Museum in 1975. Excellent exhibitions on the War for Independence and the first Estonian Republic. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.

Speciality museums
Bank of Estonia Museum (Eesti Panga muuseum)
D-3, Estonia pst 13, tel. (+372) 668 07 60, muuseum@ eestipank.ee, www.eestipank.info. The 20th Century was a turbulent one for Estonia's currencies. This modern museum displays every kind of banknote used here from Tsarist roubles to German occupation tender, and outlines the history of Estonia's national bank itself, founded in 1919. For anyone who's already forgotten what they look like, those now-extinct Euroland currencies are also showcased. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission free.

Estonian History Museum - The Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) C-2, Pikk 17, tel. (+372) 641

Estonian Maritime Museum (Meremuuseum)

16 30, fax (+372) 644 34 46, post@ajaloomuuseum.ee, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Housed in the Great Guild Hall, the museum's exhibitions cover Estonia's earliest history up through the 18th century, with text in Estonian, English and Russian. The building itself (built 1407 - 1410) is significant as the home of Tallinn's union of wealthy merchants. Closed for renovations until May 28 2011. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 3. J

A-3, Fat Margaret Tower, Pikk 70, tel. (+372) 641 14 08/(+372) 641 14 10, fax (+372) 641 14 14, info@ meremuuseum.ee, www.meremuuseum.ee. Centuries of seafaring history, including models, charts and other artifacts, are displayed in this multi-storied museum housed in the 16th-century Fat Margaret cannon tower. Don't miss the antique diving equipment or the view from the roof. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.20.

Estonian War Museum (General Laidoner Museum)

Misa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 621 74 10, info@esm.ee, www.esm.ee. Housed in Viimsi Manor, the former home of Johan Laidoner who was perhaps the most influential war hero in Estonian history, the Estonian War Museum is a great place to start if you'd like to learn more about this country's history. Estonia has had troops fighting on its soil from Denmark, Sweden, Germany, Poland, Russia and has even witnessed some Viking battles. Inside you'll find all sorts of displays and info on the various wars Estonia has been involved in, as well as exhibits on the role the country's armed forces currently play in the world of warfare. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission free. An in-depth and guided tour can be had for groups of up to 10 people for a mere 6.40.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Loodusmuuseum) B-2, Lai 29a, tel. (+372) 641 17 39, muuseum@

loodusmuuseum.ee, www.loodusmuuseum.ee. All your favourite taxidermied Estonian animals (not to mention dried plants and mollusks) are on display in this three-storey museum designed to introduce nature to youngsters. Don't miss the museum's mascot, the biggest fish ever caught in the Baltics. Wherever you don't see English-language placards, look for printed information sheets floating around. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2, family ticket 4. J

Kalev Marzipan Room C-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646

Kiek in de Kk (Peep into the Kitchen) D-1/2, Kom-

andandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Now fully renovated, this tower/ museum is an excellent introduction to the history of Tallinn's defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45m, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV's cannonballs embedded in its walls. The top floor houses a caf with some excellent views. And where did the tower get its name? Check out the voyeur's view from the windows for yourself as you climb upward. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4.47. Joint ticket with the Bastion Tunnels 8.31.

41 92, www.kalev.ee. Estonia's famous candy factory operates a tiny museum in the Old Town building where the company started back in the 19th century. There isn't too much text, but visitors can get a look at the intricate, hand-

Occupation history
The Museum of Occupation and of the Fight for Freedom (Okupatsioonide Muuseum) D/E1, Toompea 8, tel. (+372) 668 02 50, muuseum@ okupatsioon.ee, www.okupatsioon.ee. In the period from 1940 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. High-tech audio-visual displays and art installations add life to the museum's artefacts and texts. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 2.

St. John the Baptist's Almshouse (Jaani Seek) H-3,

Tartu Road near the Radisson Hotel, tel. (+372) 644 23 32/(+372) 56 17 61 17, seek@linnamuuseum.ee, www. linnamuuseum.ee/jaaniseek. During road reconstruction, workers came across skeletons and other artefacts linked to the adjacent, 13th-century St. John the Baptist's almshouse/ hospital. Items on public display in the spot they were found. QOpen 10:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Open from mid May until mid September. Admission 1.28.

Tallinn City Museum (Linnamuuseum) C-3, Vene 17,

tel. (+372) 615 51 80, info@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/linnamuuseum. By far, the most modern and complete introduction to Tallinn. Appropriately built into a 14thcentury merchant house, the City Museum houses elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 3.20. J

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what to see
painted marzipan creations. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission free.

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Tunnels under Tallinn

D-1/2, Komandandi 2 (Kiek in de Kk), tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Legends, secrets and underground passages, the tunnels aren't just for rats any more, now you can tour them, too! Built in the 17th-century by the Swedes to help protect the city, these tunnels are a fascinating relic of times past. Now having completed phase two of the renovations, visitors can ride the underground train into Tallinn's future or take a walk into the depths of the city's past. Watch your head though some of the passage ways can be a little 'hard' on you. Tours (by arrangement) run from 10:30 - 17:30, every day except Monday. For booking, contact Kiek in de Kk tel. (+372) 644 66 86. Admission 5.75, children 3.20. Joint ticket with the Kiek in de Kk 8.31. Bring warm clothing as the tunnel temperatures are 6 to 8 degrees. Q J

Museum of Estonian Photography (Fotomuuseum)

C-2, City Prison, Raekoja 4/6, tel. (+372) 644 87 67, foto@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum/. Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 - 1940 period. Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and antique cameras on display. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 1.92. J

Theatre & Music Museum (Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) D-2, Mrivahe 12, tel. (+372) 644 64
07/(+372) 644 21 32, info@tmm.ee, www.tmm.ee. Housed in the medieval Assawe tower, the museum hosts a weird and wonderful collection of musical devices, from ancient horns to old clavicords. Splurge another 7 to get them to crank up a the curious mechanical music machines. Theatre is covered very minimally and text is mostly in Estonian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Archives open Tue-Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sat - Sun. Admission 3. English language tour available for 13. J

The Marzipan Museum C-3, Pikk 16, tel. (+372)

646 06 26. The room of this little shop/museum has a few more creations than the Kalev Marzipan Room, but is not quite steeped in as much history. Visitors do however get the chance to build their own marzipan figurines and even receive a giftbox to house the sweet creation. The marzipan sculpturing experience will set you back 9.60. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free. J

www.linnamuuseum.ee

Tallinn City Museum branch museums:

includes the following

CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchants dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. It got the European Museum Forums nomination in 2003. The museum and its caf are open: Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street, CHILDRENS MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue Street ST JOHNS ALMSHOUSE at Vike-Psukese Street (nearby Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn) HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mekalda Street MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula Street Colourful theme museum for children Writers museums with authentic interiors: A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas

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what to see
Fun for the whole family
Doll Museum (Lastemuuseum) A-1, Kotzebue
16, tel. (+372) 641 34 91, laste@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/lastemuuseum. Just as the name implies, this museum is a treasure trove of dolls, antique and modern. Small and geared toward kids, the museum proudly presents its permanent exhibition, Old Beloved Toys. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 1.92.

Great outdoors
Tallinn Botanical Garden (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)
Kloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. (+372) 606 26 66, aed@tba. ee, www.tba.ee. With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a well-kept secret. Around 8,000 species are arranged on 123ha of land, with large modern greenhouses where you can find displays of tropical, subtropical and desert plants. Take bus N34A or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa stop. Exhibitions April 09 - 17: The famous and strange in the plant kingdom. May 07 - 15: Saintpaulias and spring flowers. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Greenhouses open 11:00 - 16:00. From May garden open 11:00 - 20:00, greenhouses open 11:00 - 18:00. Call 606 26 66 for tours. Admission 2.88.

Estonian Children's Literature Centre A-3, Pikk

73, tel. (+372) 646 64 88, eltk@eltk.ee, www. eltk.ee. This literature centre predominately features children's books in the Estonian language, but also has a good selection of books in other languages as well. The centre also has a few permanent and special exhibitions, including the Edgar Valter gallery, which is dedicated to the loved children's author and illustrator. Many of the displays are interesting for young and old alike, no matter what your Estonian language skills. Groups should book in advance by calling (+372) 617 72 35. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Estonian Open Air Museum Vabahumuuseumi tee

667 95 55, info@nuku.ee, www. nuku.ee. The elaborate Puppet Theatre has been a staple of local entertainment since 1952. It also houses an extensive, high-tech museum that deals with puppet theatre history and pretty much anything else related to the 'puppet-verse'. Performances are in Estonian, but small children of any language can still be wowed by the fun characters. They've also got something called steampunk', which can be viewed from Nunne street 8 (C-2) every half an hour. This bit of animated madness, created by the brilliant Keith Newstead, is guaranteed to take the viewer to another world- Puff, the Magic Dragon anybody? QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Museum open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4.79 or 14.06 for a family ticket. J

Estonian Puppet Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater) C-2, Lai 1, tel. (+372)

12, tel. (+372) 654 91 00/(+372) 654 91 01, info@ evm.ee, www.evm.ee. Nearly 100 farm buildings nestle on 80ha of forest in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history. Sample the pea soup and other traditional foods at Kolu Tavern (Kolu Krts). Take bus N21 or 21b from the train station to Vabahumuuseum stop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. From May open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 3, from May 6. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is 10.

Tallinn Zoo (Loomaaed) Paldiski mnt 145, tel.

(+372) 694 33 00, zoo@tallinnzoo.ee, www.loomaaed. ee. Although not an overly large zoo, Tallinn's animal garden boasts one of the most impressive collections of exotic species in Northern Europe. Birds of prey are to the left, Siberian tigers and polar bears are straight ahead as you pass the indoor viewing areas. You can check out the newly reopened Elephant House or duck into the steamy, crocodile and chimp-filled Tropical House. Take bus N22 or trolleybus N6 from the Vabaduse vljak to the Zoo stop. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Indoor expositions (Tropic house, Elephant house) open Tue - Sun 10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. You are allowed to wander the zoo 2 hours after the ticket office closes. Admission 3.20, from May 5.80. Family and children's prices available too. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is 10.

Miia-Milla-Manda G-5, Koidula 21A, tel. (+372) 601

Vana Toomas
One of Tallinns most recognised and legendary figures, the weathervane Vana Toomas (Old Thomas), can be seen guarding over Old Town from the top of the Town hall tower, rain or shine. Toomas wasnt always as old as his current name suggests - you see, as a wee peasant lad he won an annual archery contest that was only reserved for the nobility. He expected to get into a fair amount of trouble for winning, as it had never been done by someone of his lowly stature, but his win would not be in vain as he was invited to become an apprentice guard. The next few years would see much adventure for our young hero as he performed numerous heroic deeds during the Livonian war and went on to serve Tallinn well past the usual retirement age. At some point later the townsfolk noticed a similarity between the weathervane and their favorite soldier and decided to honor him by giving his name to the vane. He has since become a symbol of the city.

70 57, mmmm@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared towards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The playful exhibits are constantly changing and with active themes the little ones are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - or so we hope. QOpen 12.00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Family ticket 5.11.

Toomas The Train

Toomas is a happy, little tourist train that makes a 20-minute circui t throu gh th e streets of Old Town. Departures are from Kullassepa street (C2). It operates every day from June till August 12:00 - 17:00, weather permitting. In May and September only weekends. Ride costs 5 for adults and 3 for the kids. Q J

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what to see
Quirky museums
Health Museum (Tervishoiumuuseum) B-2, Lai
28/30, tel. (+372) 641 17 30/(+372) 641 17 32, thm@ hot.ee, www.tervishoiumuuseum.ee. Tallinn's school kids learn all about the human body at this old-fashioned and somewhat disturbing museum. On one floor, interactive displays teach younger kids all the systems in the human body (the gigantic model of a tongue is no doubt a big hit!), while the upper floor has photos and models designed to scare older kids away from ever using drugs or having children. Don't visit before, during, or after lunch. Exhibition March 01 - June 30: Panoptikon a display of antique, wax reproductions of the human body, lost during World War II and rediscovered in a Central European cellar in the early 1980's. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 2.56. Panoptikon admission 5.

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St.Catherines Passage (C-3)

Marine Mine Museum B-3, Uus 37, tel. (+372) 641 10

Literary/cultural figures
(+372) 601 32 32, tammsaare@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/tammsaare. In this rambling wooden house in Kadriorg, Tammsaare (1878 - 1940), one of the heavies of Estonian literature, completed Truth and Justice, an epic in five parts that has defied translation into English. The vast exhibition (in Estonian and Russian) includes more than it ever occurred to you to ask about the author. Check out the newly opened balcony cafeteria for some inexpensive snacks and drinks while you're there. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 1.92.

08/(+372) 641 14 10, info@meremuuseum.ee, www. meremuuseum.ee. The signs out front read Mines! Mines! Mines!' while upbeat, military marching music plays over a loudspeaker. An interesting yet slightly creepy collection of marine mines salvaged from the Baltic Sea is now displayed at this museum complete with detailed English captions. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 1.90. J

A. H. Tammsaare Museum G-4, Koidula 12a, tel.

Patarei Prison F-2, Suur-Patarei, Kalaranna 2, tel.

(+372) 504 65 36, info@patarei.org, www.patarei.org. This imposing, seaside complex in the Kalamaja district is now one of the best places in the world to catch a glimpse of Soviet-era prison life in all its dreariness. Originally opened as a sea fortress in 1840, it housed inmates from 1919 until 2004, and has been left virtually untouched since. Visitors can explore the hallways to see cells, work areas, exercise yards and the like. There are also several tours available see website for details. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Closed from September until June except for groups by prior arrangement. See website for details. Admission 2.

Eduard Vilde Museum H-4, Roheline aas 3, tel.

(+372) 601 31 81, vilde@linnamuuseum.ee, www. linnamuuseum.ee/vilde/. The museum dedicated to the prolific literary figure Eduard Vilde (1865 - 1933) with a fascinating permanent exhibition. The museum is also home to the Kastellaani Gallery. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 1.92.

Tops of medieval Tallinn

St. Olaf's Church Tower (Oleviste torn) B-3,
Lai 50, tel. (+372) 641 22 41, oleviste@oleviste. ee, www.oleviste.ee. This lofty church was the world's tallest building between 1549 and 1625, when the spire burnt down after a lightning storm. The spire has long since been rebuilt, but no longer holds the world record. The tower's viewing platform is open to the public from April through Oct. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed from November to March. Admission 2. J

Cats Well
Before you complain about the chalky taste of Tallinns tap water, you might want to stop to consider what the towns Medieval residents had to put up with. This wheel well on the corner of Rataskaevu and Dunkri in the Old Town was once one of the main sources of water for the Tallinn. According to legend, some of the locals got it into their heads that an evil water spirit lived in the well and threatened to make all the towns wells run dry if it wasnt given regular animal sacrifices. To keep the spirit happy, some cattle and sheep carcasses were thrown down the well, but the main victims were stray cats, who were rounded up and tossed, sometimes live, down the shaft. This practice was so common that the locals started calling this watering hole Cats Well. In a sense, the sacrifices worked - the towns wells never ran dry. But the practice of throwing animals down the well didnt do much for the water quality, and the Cats Well had fallen into disuse by the mid 19th century. Rest assured that nowadays Tallinns water is much safer to drink, and the cats of Old Town no longer live in fear.

Town Fortifications B-2, Gmnaasiumi 3, tel.

(+372) 644 98 67, kodu.linn@mail.ee. With 46 towers, medieval Tallinn was known as 'one of the most fortified burgs in all Northern Europe'. Today 1.85km of the original city wall and 20 towers survive.Three of the oldest, Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala, are open to the public, entrance at this spot. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed, Thu. Tour hours may vary. Call ahead to make sure they are open. Admission 1.30. J

Town Hall Tower (Raekoja torn) D-2, Raekoja

plats 1, tel. (+372) 645 79 00. Breathtaking views of Town Hall Square. Open only in summer. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Open from May 01 - Sept 15. Admission 3. J

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what to see
Town Fortifications
Danebrog Tower Caf & Art Gallery C-1/D-1,
Danish King's Garden One of the towers located in The Danish Kings Garden. You used to be able to access the town wall from here - and hopefully soon again once the city gets it renovated. Until then its certainly a great spot to get the feel of the towns fortifications.

Soviet Tallinn
The first thing Tallinners did after regaining independence in August 1991 was to remove as many symbols of Soviet power as they could find, but a few humorously grotesque or sad reminders of that time are still with us.

Architectural Elements

Epping Tower B-2, Laboratooriumi 31, tel. (+372)

601 30 01, nele@kuukala.com, www.eppingtower. info. The focus of the museum inside the Epping tower is an interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and development of medieval defence systems. On display are items pertaining to the towers' history, including suits of armour and complete maps of how the town looked during the 15th-century. Make sure you climb all the way to the top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. In April open only on Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 4. J

With the exception of the Officer's House (see below), few visible sickles and hammers are left on Tallinn's buildings. There are a couple of places where you can still see some rather Soviet-looking stars though. One of them (pictured here) is on the corner of SuurKarja and Vana-Posti, (D-3), in a building which used to house some offices of the Soviet navy. On the same square you can see the Sprus cinema with more socialist design elements near the roof.

House on Tartu mnt. H-4, Tartu mnt 24. Tallinn was

Fat Margaret Tower A-3, Pikk 70. Originally constructed in the 14th century and arguably one of the top sights in the city, Paks Margareta as she is known to locals, is 82m in diameter and boasts 5m thick walls. At one point, Tallinns harbour was just outside the Great Coastal Gate and she certainly provided a formidable defence against any hostile forces trying enter the city here. The tower currently houses the Estonian Maritime Museum, see museum entry for details.

never given the gift of one of those colossal, multi-tiered wedding cake buildings that were so praised during the Soviet 1950s (Riga and Warsaw were not so lucky). Instead, it has a much smaller corner building built in a similar style, with a spire and star at the top. There's nothing special about the house itself (it was just a residential building), but it is the strongest representative of that style in Tallinn. You can find it by going to the Stockmann department store and looking across the road, or try to pick it out in the skyline when gazing out over Tallinn from the lookout on Toompea hill.

KGB Headquarters B-3, Pagari 1, at the corner of Pikk

59. Look for the building with the bricked-up cellar windows. It was here that perceived enemies of the regime were interrogated and either shot or sent to Siberian work camps. The plaque reads, This building housed the headquarters of the organ of repression of the Soviet occupational power. Here began the road to suffering for thousands of Estonians.' Interestingly, the KGB used the tall spire of the nearby St. Olaf's Church to send radio transmissions.

Hellemann Tower Gallery C-3, Mrivahe 48,

info@hellemann.ee, www.hellemann.ee. This medieval structure has been converted into an art gallery, but paying the small entrance fee will let you have a look at the inside of the tower and give you a chance to walk along a section of the original town wall where you'll get a pigeonseye view of Old Town. Don't forget to check out the various exhibitions being held here as well. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 3. J

KGB Museum C-4, Viru vljak 4 (Sokos Hotel Viru), tel.

Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala towers B-2, Gm-

naasiumi 3, tel. (+372) 644 98 67, kodu.linn@mail. ee. Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at this spot. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed, Thu. Tour hours may vary. Call ahead to make sure they are open. Admission 1.30.

Viru Gates C-3. The main en-

trance into Old Town is marked by these beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was composed of a large tower, walls and the existing two towers. Unfortunately the larger inner gate towers were destroyed, but if you close your eyes we're sure that you can picture what they would have looked like.

(+372) 680 93 00, viru.reservation@sok.fi, www.viru. ee. For years, stories have been circulating about how one side of the first foreign owned and operated hotel in Tallinn during Soviet times was completely wired up so that the KGB could listen in on foreign and local guests' conversations. When the iron curtain finally fell, those staffing the room destroyed or took with them what they could and high-tailed it back to 'Mother Russia'. Now the room is finally open to the public and exists exactly the way they left it, including an ashtray and Soviet-era cigarette butts. Sokos also fixed up another adjacent room which serves as a kind of time-capsule to Soviet hotel history. The museum, albeit small, is certainly worth a visit for both tourists and locals alike. Q Through April, tours run Sat-Sun, 10:00 and 11:30. From may tours run everyday.Tours cost 5 for hotel guests and 7 for others. Tours must be booked in advance. J

Linnahall F-3, Mere pst. 20. Built for the Olympics in

1980, this event centre and port is a perfect example of a much-criticised Soviet building practice - overuse of concrete. The hall can best be described as a cross between a parking garage and a somewhat flattened Mayan pyramid. Linnahall is easy to visit by foot since it's so close to the centre. We suggest you hurry though, it's crumbling rather fast.

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what to see
Kadriorg
Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace and several art museums.

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Kadriorg Palace G-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. (+372) 606

64 03, kadriorg@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Italian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this magnificent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The emperor named the estate for his wife Catherine I ('Catherine' is 'Kadri' in Estonian), hence the name of the area. The palace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In addition to perusing the nation's collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs that served as president's office in the 1930s. Don't miss the lavish manicured gardens, out back. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Flower Garden is open May - August 09:00-20:00 Admission 4.20.

Kadriorg Palace

Pirita
A bit further out from Kadriorg is another district that provides an escape from the city's bustle - Pirita. This historic district is actually within Tallinn city limits, only a 10 - 15 minute ride from the centre. When you get here though, you'll never believe you were in Tallinn; suddenly you're surrounded by lush forest, fresh air and, best of all - silence. Getting here is simple. Take bus number 1, 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from the underground stop at the Viru Centre. For the beach, convent or river area, get off at the Pirita stop, which is the first one after you cross the river.

Kadriorg Park Museum & Library G-5, Weizenbergi

26, tel. (+372) 601 31 83, muuseum@kadriorupark.ee, www.kadriorupark.ee. This small museum is dedicated to the park's history, as well as to the architecture of other parks around Estonia. Changing exhibits and a library. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. In April open only on Fri - Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Admisson free.

Park and Swan Pond G-4, . The entire leafy park north-

Song Festival Grounds (Lauluvljak) F/G-5/6,

Narva mnt 95. Located directly between Kadriorg and Pirita, lies one of Estonia's most important pieces of real estate, the Song Festival Grounds. In June of 1988 these grounds played host to over 100,000 Estonians who raised their collective voices in songs of freedom that would ultimately lead to Estonia regaining her independence after more than 50 years of Soviet rule. Singing has always had an important place in the hearts of Estonians and the first song festival was held in Tartu back in 1869. Currently a Song Festival happens every couple of years, and still plays a huge part of the national identity. When there isn't a festival happening, the grounds host numerous other events and concerts. If you'd like to take a peek at the historic grounds and the massive bowl structure where the choirs sing, the park is open to the public without an admission fee during non-event times. At the top of the hill you will also see a large golden sculpture of Gustav Ernesaks, the famous conductor who also played a big role in the Singing Revolution. Kloostri tee 9, tel. (+372) 605 50 44/(+372) 58 17 35 60, lagle@osss.ee, www.piritaklooster.ee. Rising up along the banks of the Pirita River, the spectacular ruins of this 15thcentury convent make one of Tallinn's more fascinating historic sights. Founded in 1407 by the Bridgetine Order, the convent was unique in that it housed both monks and nuns. The convent crumbled in a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 and its stones were later carted off to construction projects throughout Tallinn. What remains today are the towering Gothic gable and walls of the main hall, as well as some surrounding foundations and cellars. Take bus N1, 8, 34A or 38 from Viru vljak to the Pirita stop. QOpen 10:00 18:00. Admission 1.28.

east of Weizenbergi is criss-crossed with paths, perfect for a wandering visitor. The forest includes several horse chestnuts planted here in 1722 that were supposed to be replanted later in St. Petersburg, but never were. The most visited spot here is the recently renovated Swan Pond, an artificial, rectangular pond with a picturesque gazebo in the middle. It looks like something out of a Chekhov play, and is a required stop on any tour of Kadriorg. Bring plenty of film for the camera and food for the ducks and swans.

Peter The Great House Museum G-5, Mekalda 2,

tel. (+372) 601 31 36, peetri@linnamuuseum.ee, www. linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja. This humble little cottage's claim to fame is that this was where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during his visits to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete. In fact it's still filled with Peter's furniture, portraits and other artefacts from his interesting life. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. From May open Tue-Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 1.92.

St. Bridget's Convent Ruins (Pirita klooster)

Presidential Palace G-5, Weizenbergi 39. For a few years

during Estonia's first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace's style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building once again serves as the President's office and residence, it's closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, you'll see the honour guards marching out front.

Russalka monument G-5, Across Narva mnt., by the

shore. This striking sculpture of an angel facing out into the sea horizon is a memorial to the 177 men of the Russalka, a Russian military ship that tragically sunk while en route to Helsinki in 1893. Created by famed Estonian sculptor A.H. Adamson, the monument has become a Tallinn landmark and a traditional spot for Russian couples to lay flowers on their wedding day.

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Adventure and travel

Prangli Island Day Trips

Witness the untouched nature and authentic fishing-village atmosphere!
Tours take place from May to August, every Wednesday and Friday. In July also on Mondays.
Prangli Island Tallinn

360 degrees tel. (+372) 56 22 29 96, info@360.ee,

www.360.ee. At 360 degrees if adventure is the name then they've got the game. All sorts of adventures can be had from river rafting, canoeing, sea kayaking and skating. The type of adventure is only limited to the weather conditions. Also offering a number of scheduled tours. See website for complete details.

Airsport (Eesti Lennuklubi) tel. (+372) 505 08

Price 59 EUR

Includes transfers, ferry-tickets, an island tour in English, a museum visit and lunch.

74/(+372) 512 37 63, info@airsport.ee, www.airsport. ee. In case seeing Estonia from the ground is not enough for you, you could always try seeing it from the air as you plummet thousands of feet to the ground with nothing but a flimsy piece of parachute to keep you from splattering your guts all over God's green earth. They swear it's safe though, we'll leave that up to you. Q Simple tandem jump with instructor and 15 minutes of instruction, 192. Jump with a round parachute includes a 6hr course and 3 jumps, 160. See website for directions and details.

Prangli Travel tel. (+372) 53 41 31 09, info@tallinndaytrip. BOOKING www.tallinndaytrip.com Ph +372 53 413 109

NEW

Bowling & Billiards

Al Mare Bowling Paldiski mnt. 96, tel. (+372) 656
29 64, amb@amb.ee, www.almarebowling.ee. With twelve lanes this just might be the largest bowling outfit in Estonia. Perfect for any tourist who just can't keep their hands off of their balls. QOpen 14.00 - 22.00, Fri 14.00 - 23.00, Sat 10.00 - 23.00, Sun 10.00 - 20.00. 10.80 - 16.80 depending on the time.

com, www.tallinndaytrip.com. Although most of the world knows about the 'Thousand Islands' region in Canada, did you know that there are 1,500 islands and islets in Estonia? This outfit organises a fantastic day-trip to one of these islands called Prangli, located just 19km north Tallinn. Learn about the rich 600-year history, commune with nature, experience quaint fishing villages and hear fascinating stories about pirates and other colourful characters when visiting this 6km-long island. Tour commneces from Tallinn City Centre, lasts a full day and takes place in an open-air truck. Due to the outdoor nature of the trip, adventurers are advised to dress for the weather. Q It's recommended to book by 16:00 on the day prior to departure, see website for additional details.

Ku:lsa:l B-4, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 661 66 82,

bowling@kuulsaal.ee, www.kuulsaal.ee. This ultramodern, ultra-cool, two-storey club offers the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes 10.90 - 17.90/hr. They also offer seven pool tables, including snooker and Russian billiards for for 1.90 - 3.90 per hour. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

Skydive Estonia (Eesti Langevarjuklubi) J-2, Tri 10C, tel. (+372) 54 54 55 44, jump@skydive.ee, www. skydive.ee. The only way you would get us to jump out of an air plane is if it had experienced some sort of mechanical failure and it had started a collision course with the ground. That being said, I suppose the fear factor is what makes it so exciting. Q 30 minutes of instruction and tandem jump with an instructor, 195. 4 hours of instruction and 3 instructor assisted deployment jumps, 290. XXXL Tours Rohuneeme tee 61C, tel. (+372) 55 53 18
88, info@xxxltours.com, www.xxxltours.com. Pretty much the most extreme hen and stag party organiser in Tallinn, they provide such unique activities as anger packages with kalashnikov shooting, go-karting, paintball, clay pigeon shooting, and pub crawling with a female guide... that's right, female guide. Perhaps they even offer machine gun shooting while riding on go-karts with a female guide, you can always ask.

Pepsi Piljard C-3, Aia 10, tel. (+372) 641 42

32, info@pepsipiljard.ee, www.pepsipiljard.ee. Friendly hall just next door to Hotel Bern. Pay by the hour or per game. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. J

Zelluloosi Bowling I-4, Tartu mnt. 80b, tel. (+372)

681 08 81/(+372) 53 07 27 32, info@zbowling.ee, www.zbowling.ee. Mmmm, the smell of shoe disinfectant, the sound of pins crashing into each other and the sight of all those bums wiggling on the lanes. This 'friendly' bowling club with attached sauna has lanes for 10.20 - 16.98/hr. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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interaCtive tallinn
Culture
Ceramics Studio C-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 56 46 40
75, ritarandmaa@hot.ee, www.keraamikakoda.ee. For a truly personal souvenir of Tallinn you might want to check out this ceramics studio which offers lessons every week to those interested in such things. Lessons are between 1.5-2hrs in length and cost a mere 13 per person. Its also possible to order private lessons for groups of up to 10 people, see website for details.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.

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Aah-haa!
AHHAA - Science Centre D-2, Kaarli pst 2b (Vabaduse Vljak), tel. (+372) 666 00 66, liisa-riin.stalde@ ahhaa.ee, www.ahhaa.ee. At the bottom of the newly redesigned Freedom Square, this interactive science experience is truly amusing for the whole family. The concept started years ago in the university town of Tartu and now that we have a branch in Tallinn - we're richer for it. The hands-on exhibits will allow the user to become familiar with a fascinating array of scientific concepts, but perhaps the most exciting part of the science centre is the 4D cinema. The 9-seat, multi-sensory set-up allows the viewer to truly experience the films like never before. Who said science wasn't fun. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 5, family ticket 12, students and seniors 4.50. Prearranged group ticket, 4 per person. Ticket sales end one hour prior to closing. 4D cinema only, Mon-Fri 10:00 - 16:00 3.20 and all other times 4.50. For visitors of the centre, cinema ticket is half price. Through 2011 there will be a special exhibition, "Dialogue in the Dark". Guests will only be able to experience things in complete darkness and will have to rely on touch, smell and their sense of hearing. TJUL

Kalev Master's Chamber B-4, Roseni 7 (Rotermann

Courtyard), tel. (+372) 54 55 58 86/(+372) 54 52 58 29, meistrikoda@kalev.eu, www.kalev.eu. Located in the loft above the Kalev candy shop in the Rotermanni Quarter, the Master Chamber provides guests with the opportunity to create their own marzipan figurines or decorate their own fine chocolates. What could make a better memory of your time in Tallinn than something sweet, created by your own hands - of course, whether or not it ends up being a good memory probably depends on your artistic abilities or lack there of. Workshops are available for a minimum of four guests and arrangements should be made ahead of time by phone, by e-mail or even in person. Prices vary depending on how many people are in your group. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Loovala (artist collective) B-4, Rotermann 5/ Roseni

10, tel. (+372) 677 52 62, helen.tago@gmail.com, www. loovala.ee. On the first floor of the Rotermanni Kaubamaja you'll discover an art centre, art gallery, art supply store and art collective that is indeed something quite unique in Tallinn. At Loovala, which means creative space, you'll be able to buy art from the artists themselves, purchase supplies to create your own works, order custom framing, have discussions with creative minds and even attend hands-on workshops. You'll find works by textile artists, print makers, jewellers, multi-discipline artists and traditional painters. For a full list of all happenings, exhibitions and workshops make sure to pay their website a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Family fun
Energy Discovery Centre A-3, Phja pst. 29, tel.
(+372) 715 26 50, info@energiakeskus.ee, www.energiakeskus.ee. Science made fun, or at the very least, a nerd's paradise. Modelled after the famous Exploratorium in San Francisco, this hands-on museum is designed to demonstrate things like physics, optics and acoustics to the younger generation. There are also exhibits related to space exploration. Don't miss the see-and-do displays downstairs. The museum building is a former power station, in operation from 1913 to 1979. Ring the bell to enter. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3, family ticket 8. J

Saku Brewery Tallinna mnt 2, Saku, tel. (+372) 650

83 38/(+372) 650 83 39, saku@pruulikoda.ee, www. pruulikoda.ee. Often considered Tallinn's beer as the factory is only about a 15 minute car ride from the centre, Saku (now fully owned by the Carlsberg Group) has been brewing beer since 1820, thus making it the oldest brewery in Estonia. Visitors are invited to check out the museum filled with interesting beer related relics from the days of yore, take the tour of the operational brewery and hoist a few back or grab a bite in Brewhouse Pub. Q You can book tours on weekdays from 9:00 - 17:00. Due to high demand they recommend you book at least three weeks in advance by email visit@pruulikoda.ee or by telephone (+372) 53 02 68 58.

Juku Playland Paldiski mnt. 102, tel. (+372) 665 91

49/(+372) 56 93 31 30, roccamangumaa@jukukeskus. ee, www.jukukeskus.ee. Playland offering ball pits, jungle gym, trampoline and inflatable attractions. Tickets start from 1.60. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. W

Vanalinna Klaasikoda Suur-Sjame 8A, tel. (+372) 55

Kalev Spa Water Park B-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33

57 36 37, info@vlklaasikoda.ee, www.vlklaasikoda.ee. Not at all in Old Town as the name would suggest, this house of glass, located right behind lemiste Shopping Centre, offers up some unique souvenirs and the opportunity to learn about and indeed create your own glass-terpieces. See website for details. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

70, waterpark@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. Located right downtown, this fully-equipped indoor water park provides a whole host of wet entertainment. Besides its three water slides, it has a 50m lap pool, an upstream swimming pool, kids' pool and play area, saunas, hot tubs and a caf. For a 2.5hr visit, the price for children up to 5 years of age is 1, adults 10.50 and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 children) is 29. Daily and 1.5hr admission also available. QOpen 06:45 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. TJFLC

Nmme Adventure Park Klmallika 15a (Nmme

Sports Centre), tel. (+372) 608 80 29/(+372) 56 15 91 60, info@nommeseikluspark.ee, www.nommeseikluspark.ee. Adventure park with climbing trails for both grownups and kids. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Adult single ticket from 14 - 16.5, children 8 - 12.50.

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Public transport
Tallinn's public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trollybuses and trams, all of which use the same tickets. Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas, whereas buses are mainly for getting to outlying neighbourhoods. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the new terminal under the Viru Keskus, or from Vabaduse Vljak. You can easily pick up trams in several places adjacent Old Town - check our handy transport map in the back of the guide. Routes and schedules are also listed in English on the www.tak.ee website, and detailed route maps are posted at most bus stops. When climbing on board, in 98% of cases, you can just hop on any door, i.e. you don't have to show your ticket to the driver. The rare exception is a few buses that have no-entry' signs on their rear doors. If you see this sign and the door doesn't open, head to the front and punch your ticket/show your pass to the driver. Tickets are otherwise checked by inspectors who jump on at random stops. In our experience, inspectors appear very rarely, but in theory they could show up any time. In other words, don't blame us if you get nailed. The fine for 'riding like a rabbit' - as locals call it - is 51. Tickets: The same tickets are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the single-ride ticket, or talong. Buy one from nearly any kiosk for 0.96 (a book of ten tickets is only 6.39) or from the driver for 1.60. Once you're on board, punch your talong to validate it. Slide it into the green-topped ticket punch and pull the top towards you. Other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are only sold in kiosks. These include a 1hr (1.02; a book of ten tickets 8.31), 2hr (0.77), 24hr (4.47) and tourist-convenient 72hr (7.35) ticket. These need to be validated the first time they're used - find the modernlooking ticket punch with digital time clock on board the vehicle (usually by the centre door). Long-term visitors can also opt for a 10-day (13.10) or 30-day (26.84) pass.

Parking
Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that there's absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that finding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs 1.04 - 4.60/hour, depending on the zone. Look for posted signs to tell you the price and the hours/days that paid parking is in effect. Some city centre areas require you to pay even at night. Buy per-hour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded central parking lots/garages: europark@europark.ee, www.europark.ee. 2.30/hr. Q 24hrs. Kaarli parking D-1, Kaarli pst. 2, tel. (+372) 1669, yhisteenused@yhisteenused.ee, www.parkimine.ee. 2/hr. QOpen 24hrs. Rvala Parking House D-4, Rvala pst 3, tel. (+372) 1669, yhisteenused@yhisteenused.ee, www.parkimine. ee. 0.90 for first 20min and 0.60/20min after that. Q Open 24hrs. Rotermann parking B-4, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 1669, yhisteenused@yhisteenused.ee, www.parkimine.ee. Entrance from Ahtri street. 1.20/hr. QOpen 24hrs. Solaris parking D-3, Estonia pst 9, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, europark@europark.ee, www.europark.ee. Entrance from Sakala street. 2.80/hr. QOpen 24hrs. Vabaduse Vljak (Freedom Square) D-2, Vabaduse vljak, tel. (+372) 1669, yhisteenused@yhisteenused. ee, www.parkimine.ee. 2/hr. Q Open 24hrs. Viru Centre C-4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 1669, yhisteenused@yhisteenused.ee., www.parkimine.ee. 1.80/hr. Q Open 24hrs.

EuroPark H-3, Narva mnt. 13, tel. (+372) 661 02 23,

Taxis
Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and next the Drama theatre just outside Old Town, but grabbing a taxi on the street, especially those parked in Old Town, is the best way to get ripped off. Always check the prices first, which should posted on the taxi's right rear window. These consist of a base fare of usually 2.20 - 2.90 plus two per-kilometre rates (one for daytime, one for night) which should normally be around 0.32 - 0.70. When in doubt, you can agree on a price to your destination with the driver before you get in. Ordering a taxi by phone is always the best strategy, as you'll avoid the dishonest taxis that prey on tourists. Here is a list of taxi companies along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time rates can be about 20% more.

For the motorist

If youre driving in Estonia for the first time, heres what you need to know: traffic signs and laws follow general European standards. The law requires use of seatbelts and headlights at all times. Small children must sit in child seats. You must have a valid license (with photo), your cars registration and proof of insurance with you in the car, as well as a letter of authorisation if you are not the owner of the vehicle. In pretty much all cases, your drivers license from back home will work fine. Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/ h and in the cities 50 km/h, unless otherwise noted.

Peretakso tel. (+372) 16111/(+372) 646 00

06, peretakso@peretakso.ee, www.peretakso. ee. 3.20 + 0.77 - 0.96/km. Saksa Takso tel. (+372) 1316/(+372) 53 03 50 35, info@saksatakso.ee, saksatakso.edicypages. com/et. 2.17 + 0.35/km. Q N Sbra Takso tel. (+372) 1714/(+372) 621 50 80, info@sobratakso.ee, w w w.sobratakso.ee. 2.24 + 0.34 - 0.36/km. Q N Tulika Takso tel. (+372) 1200/(+372) 612 00 01, takso@tulika.ee, www.tulikatakso.ee. 2.88 + 0.55 - 0.70/km, maxi taxi 5.75 + 0.96.

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getting around
Car rental
ABC Autorent Paldiski mnt 105, tel. (+372) 503 31 74, info@abcautorent.ee, www.abcautorent.ee. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Avis H-3, Prnu mnt 141, tel. (+372) 667 15 00, avis@ avis.ee, www.avis.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: J-5, Tallinn Airport, tel. 605 82 22. Open 05:00 - 02:00. Budget J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605 86 00, rent@budget.ee, www.budget.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Bulvar H-3, Regati 1, tel. (+372) 503 02 22 (24hrs), info@bulvar.ee, www.bulvar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hansarent G-3, Ahtri 6, tel. (+372) 655 71 55/(+372) 53 04 40 55 (24hrs), booking@hansarent.ee, www. hansarent.ee. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

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R-Rent J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 50 36 446 (24hrs), info@rrent.ee, www.rrent. ee. Prices starting from 25.55/day. Car delivery free of charge.

Sir Autorent H-3, Juhkentali 11,

tel. (+372) 661 43 53/(+372) 56 51 353 (24hrs), sirrent@online. ee, www.sirrent.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Sixt J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605 81 48, rent@sixt.ee, www.sixt.ee. QOpen 09:00

Airport
Lennart Meri - Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) J-5,
Lennujaama tee 2, tel. (+372) 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), fax (+372) 605 84 33, info@tll.aero, www.tallinnairport.ee. Tallinn's airport is a modern affair, but still so small there's never a worry about getting lost. Officials recommend you arrive 1.5 hours before your flight. Estonian Air check-ins close 35 minutes before take-off. A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs 8 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N2 (marked Lennujaam - Migu) from the 'A. Laikmaa' stop, just outside to the downtown Viru Centre on its east side.

- 18:00. Also at: D-4, Rvala pst 5, tel. 888 36 60. Open 08:30 - 17:00, closed Sat, Sun. Tulika Rent I-1, Tihase 34, tel. (+372) 526 18 39 (24hrs), tulika@tulika.ee, www.tulika.ee.

Towing service
Eesti Autoklubi Laki 11, tel. (+372) 1888/(+372)
697 91 88, eak@autoclub.ee, www.autoclub.ee. For help in any kind of road emergency anywhere in Estonia. Q Open 24hrs.

Airline offices
Air Baltic D-3, Estonia pst. 1/3, tel. (+372) 630 66
66/(+371) 67 00 60 06, tallinn@airbaltic.com, www. airbaltic.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines D-4, Kaarli pst 5, tel. (+372) 630 93 97, fax (+372) 630 93 96, sales.tll@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines.com. Estonian Air I-5, Lennujaama tee 2, at the Airport, tel. (+372) 640 11 60, fax (+372) 640 11 61, lennukas@ estonian-air.ee, www.estonian-air.ee. Finnair , tel. (+372) 626 63 09/(+372) 626 63 10, fax (+372) 626 62 52, finnair@bose.ee, www.finnair.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lufthansa D-4, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. (+372) 605 81 85, fax (+372) 605 81 87, tllteammailbox.ga@dlh.de, www.lufthansa.ee.

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getting around
Ferries
The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn go by ship, and it's no wonder - the city has excellent, affordable ferry connections to Helsinki and Stockholm. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the choice between large car ferries, which make the crossing in about two hours, and fast ferries (hydrofoils and catamarans), which usually take only 1.5 hours, but are seasonal and don't run in all weather conditions. Ferries leave from various terminals of the city's two passenger harbours, clustered just outside Old Town (see our map).

Linnahall (Linnahalli kiirlaevade sadam) F-3, Mere

pst. 20, tel. (+372) 699 93 33, info@lindaliini.ee, www. lindaliini.ee. Only Lindaline hydrofoils, which operate exclusively in warmer months and in good weather conditions, leave from this Soviet-era concrete wonder. Q Ticket office open 1 hr before first departure until the last departure.

Ferries to Helsinki
From Tallinn Days 123456 123457 6 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 123456 7 12345 6 7 23456 1 123456 123456 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 567 Dep. 07:30 11:00 11:30 13:00 14:00 17:30 21:00 08:00 18:00 16:30 17:00 17:30 16:00 01:30 00:30 08:00 10:00 12:00 15:00 17:00 19:00 21:00 Arrival Terminal 09:30 D 13:00 13:30 16:30 16:00 19:30 23:00 10:30 20:30 19:00 20:30 21:00 19:30 07:00 06:40 09:30 11:30 13:30 16:30 18:30 20:30 22:30 D D D D D D A A A A A A A A Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Helsinki Ship Star/Superstar (Tallink) Star/Superstar (Tallink) Superstar (Tallink) Baltic Princess (Tallink) Star/Superstar (Tallink) Star/Superstar (Tallink) Star/Superstar (Tallink) Superstar (Tallink) M/S Viking XPRS M/S Viking XPRS M/S Viking XPRS M/S Nordlandia (Ecker) M/S Nordlandia (Ecker) M/S Nordlandia (Ecker) M/S Nordlandia (Ecker) M/S Nordlandia (Ecker) Lindaline Lindaline Lindaline Lindaline Lindaline Lindaline Lindaline Lindaline Terminal Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Katanajokka Katanajokka Katanajokka Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Lnsi Makasiini Makasiini Makasiini Makasiini Makasiini Makasiini Makasiini Makasiini To Tallinn Dep. Arrival Days 07:30 09:30 1 2 3 4 5 10:30 08:30 18:30 14:00 17:30 21:30 14:30 11:30 21:30 20:00 08:00 09:00 10:30 21:45 20:30 08:00 10:00 12:00 14:00 17:00 19:00 21:00 15:00 12:30 10:30 22:00 16:00 19:30 23:30 16:30 14:00 00:00 22:30 11:00 12:00 13:30 00:45 23:30 09:30 11:30 13:30 15:30 18:30 20:30 22:30 16:30 1234567 6 1234567 123457 1234567 1234567 6 1234567 123456 7 12345 6 7 12345 7 123456 1234567 1234567 12346 1234567 1234567 57 57

Ferry schedule valid as of March 10, 2011. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

Ferries to Stockholm
Days Dep. Arrival Terminal Ship Terminal Dep. Arrival Days To Stockholm From Stockholm 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 10:00* D Baltic Queen/Victoria I (Tallink) Vrtahamnen 17:45 10:00* 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
*arrival on next day.

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getting around
Passenger Port, Terminal A - D (Reisisadam) F-3,
Sadama 25, tel. (+372) 631 85 50, ts@ts.ee, www.portoftallinn.com. Nearly all ferry companies use the Passenger Port, which is divided into terminals A through D. All Tallink ships use D-Terminal. Q Information open in A-Terminal 06:30 - 18:30, in D-Terminal 24hrs administrator desk.

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Ferry companies
Ecker Line F-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372)
664 60 00, fax (+372) 664 60 01, info.ee@eckeroline. ee, www.eckeroline.ee. Large car ferry Nordlandia. Adult single tickets starting at 19. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:00 - 16:30. Reservations and information by phone 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 8:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:30. Lindaline F-3, Mere pst 20e, tel. (+372) 699 93 33, fax (+372) 699 93 30, info@lindaliini.ee, www.lindaliini.ee. Hydrofoils. Adult single tickets starting from 26 up to 46, depending on class, hour and day of departure. Q Ticket office open 1 hr before first departure until the last departure. Tallink G-3, A. Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 640 98 08, fax (+372) 611 88 95, booking@tallink.ee, www.tallink.ee. Large and fast car ferries. Adult single tickets start from 26. To Stockholm from 122. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: Tallinna Kaubamaja service street at Gonsiori 2 (H-3). Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Viking Line F-3, Terminal A, passenger Port, tel. (+372) 666 39 45/(+372) 666 39 66, fax (+372) 666 39 39, booking@vikingline.ee, www.vikingline.ee. Large car ferries Viking XPRS. Adult single tickets from 22. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sun 06:30 - 16:30. Reservations and information by phone 07:30 - 21:00.

Trains
Train travel in Estonia has not gained the popularity it has elsewhere in Europe. The only real international connections are to points east ( Moscow and beyond), and forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian cities by rail. Three separate companies cover Estonia's train system: GoRail (www.gorail. ee) handles international, Edelaraudtee's trains (www.edel. ee) are inter-city, and Elektriraudtee (www.elektriraudtee.ee) does the local electric trains.

Balti Jaam (Train Station) B-1, Toompuiestee 37,

Find your way at www.inyourpocket.com Domestic train schedule

From Tallinn Days 1234567 12345 57 1234567 1234567 57 1234567 1234567 1234567 567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Departure 06:49 07:56 14:07 14:51 17:10 20:09 06:56 17:25 07:49 13:34 16:36 16:00 18:20 16:00 Arrival 09:50 10:15 16:26 17:56 19:30 22:28 09:43 20:03 10:20 16:05 19:05 17:45 20:09 19:30 To Tallinn Destination TARTU TARTU TARTU TARTU TARTU TARTU PRNU PRNU VILJANDI VILJANDI VILJANDI RAKVERE RAKVERE NARVA

tel. (+372) 631 00 23/(+372) 1447, reisid@gorail.ee, www.baltijaam.ee. Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn's newly-revamped train station boasts a trendy caf, fountain and a day spa, but still has almost no information posted in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there are information booths (open 07:10 - 11:30; 12:30 - 18:15, Sat - Sun 08:00 - 11:30; 12:30 - 18:15; Gorail info open 08:00 - 13:00; 14:30 - 19:00), usually staffed by someone multilingual. Tickets for all trains, including the Russia trains, are sold from windows in the main hall (take a number and wait). For domestic routes, you don't even have to bother with this process since the same tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains. A touch-screen vending machine in the centre of the hall also sells tickets for domestic routes (excluding the electric lines).

Departure 06:39 07:34 14:19 17:23 18:15 19:54 07:17 17:08 06:36 13:21 16:19 05:51 08:17 06:32

Arrival 08:54 10:40 16:35 19:39 21:19 22:10 09:54 19:48 09:08 15:52 18:51 07:35 09:58 09:58

Days 123456 1234567 57 123457 1234567 57 1234567 1234567 1234567 567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Price 6.71-9.91 6.71-9.91 6.71-9.91 6.71-9.91 6.71-9.91 6.71-9.91 5.43 5.43 6.39-7.67 6.39-7.67 6.39-7.67 3.96 3.96 7.35

Schedule valid as of March 10, 2011. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

International train schedule

From Tallinn Days Deparure Daily 17:20 Arrival 09:20* Destination MOSCOW To Tallinn Dep. 18:05* Arr. 08:45 Days Daily Price 55 200**

*Moscow time. ** Prices (one-way) valid as of March 11, 2011. Schedule valid as of March 11, 2011. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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getting around
Buses
If youre travelling city-to-city in the Baltics and you dont have your own car, the bus is definitely the way to go. Its also a good way to meet local students. Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn.

Bus Station (Tallinna Bussiterminal) H-4, Lastekodu

46, tel. (+372) 12 550, info@bussireisid.ee, www.bussireisid.ee. Tallinn's small bus station is a small, Soviet-era relic, but it has been renovated, services are fairly efficient and it's not as depressing as it used to be. Tickets are available inside the station or from the driver. (Let ticket-holders get on the bus first.) Ticket prices depend on the bus company and route. On international routes it is advisable to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes this is generally not necessary, however there are exceptions: On Fridays and Sundays buses to popular weekend destinations like Prnu or Tartu tend to fill up quickly, so buying your ticket earlier in the day will guarantee a spot. Get to the station by taking city trams N2 or 4 from the centre to the Bussijaam stop. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00.

Ecolines I-4, Masina 22, tel. (+372) 614 36 00/(+372)

56 37 79 77, ecolines@ecolines.ee, www.ecolines.ee. A large bus company with routes throughout the Baltics and Europe. Ecolines is generally cheaper (in many senses of the term) than Eurolines. Conveniently you can book and pay for tickets via the internet then print out the ticket yourself, saving a trip to the ticket office. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. For the early birds, tickets can also be purchased here: ECOLINES Ticket Office, H-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. 56 37 79 97, ecolines. kassa@ecolines.ee, open 06:30 - 18:30.

(+372) 627 90 80/(+372) 53 05 50 55, booking@ hansabuss.ee, www.businessline.ee. By far the best way to get to Prnu or Riga, other than flying, the Hansabuss business line really takes good care of its guests. They offer complimentary WIFI, comfortable seating and also have a bus attendant who will cater to your needs. For an additional fee you can purchase food and beverages on board. Tickets must be purchased through their website. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hansabuss Business Line Kadaka tee 62a, tel.

Lux Express H-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. (+372) 680 09

09, fax (+372) 680 09 01, info@eurolines.ee, www. luxexpress.eu. Formerly known as Eurolines, Lux Express runs most international bus routes from Estonia. Seats on all routes can be reserved up to 24 hours in advance by calling ahead, though getting through to the office requires persistence. As with Ecolines, you can also buy tickets from the website and print them out. Find the office on the bus station's second floor. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30.

International bus schedule

From Tallinn Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 12345 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 4567 1234567 1234567 1234567 123457 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 57 1234567 123456 356 1234567 1234567 Departure 06:30 14:00 19:00 05:45 07:00 08:30 10:00 12:45 15:45 18:30 22:00 00:30 06:00 03:50 08:00 10:15 11:00 14:15 15:30 23:00 07:00 23:40 23:59 06:30 14:00 10:00 22:00 Arrival 10:30 18:10 23:15 10:00 11:25 12:50 14:25 17:00 20:05 22:55 02:25 05:10 13:00 12:25 15:10 18:45 20:15 21:55 22:55 07:05 15:30 07:25 08:30 14:40 22:25 18:45 06:45 Destination RIGA* RIGA* RIGA* RIGA RIGA RIGA RIGA RIGA RIGA RIGA RIGA RIGA ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG VILNIUS* VILNIUS* VILNIUS VILNIUS To Tallinn Departure 08:00 12:00 19:00 17:00 07:00 12:30 10:00 18:30 21:00 16:00 14:30 02:15 18:00 16:45 19:00 23:00 14:00 09:00 07:15 23:50 18:45 22:30 11:15 07:00 19:00 10:00 22:00 Arrival 12:15 16:15 23:15 21:25 11:25 16:55 14:25 22:55 01:15 20:25 18:55 06:40 23:20 23:05 00:15 06:00 20:20 14:45 13:25 05:40 01:10 05:30 18:10 16:30 23:45 18:55 06:40 Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 12345 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 4567 1234567 1234567 1234567 123457 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 57 1234567 1246 12 1234567 1234567 Price 13 13 13 28.76 23.97 17.58 10.55 17.58-23.97 10.55 17.58 10.50 10.50 47.93 15-27.48 28.76 23.01-24.29 24.29-27.48 28.76 15.90-22 28.76 20-24.93 24-26 25.56-27.48 26 26 17 17

* Lines operated by Ecolines, others by Lux Express. Prices for Ecolines are valid for tickets bought from the internet (5% discount compared to rack price). Schedule valid as of March 11, 2011. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.

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Mail & Phones

Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, theres no need to visit a post office. Pretty much any kiosk will sell you stamps, just make sure theyre the right value for what youre sending and where. The chart below explains the rates for both postcards and letters for the four pricing zones that Estonia uses. Once youve got your stamps licked and affixed, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small orange boxes attached to buildings around town. Dont put your mail in the dark green boxes with round holes in the sides. Those are trash bins.

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Telephone
Making the Call
Calling within Estonia To call any number within Estonia, either from a fixed line or a local mobile, just dial the number as it's written. There are no city codes in Estonia; these were phased out in early 2004. Beware of a few out-of-date ads and business cards that might still have numbers listed the old-fashioned way, with fewer than 7 digits. In this case, just tack the former city code onto the beginning of the number. For example, if you see a six-digit number for tartu, where the city code was '7', just add a '7' at the beginning. Mobile numbers Estonian mobile numbers all begin with '5'. Just dial the number as is. If you have an old listing for a mobile number that begins with '05', just ignore the '0' and start with the '5'. Roaming To call any telephone in Estonia from a foreign mobile account, dial +372 followed by the number, as outlined before.

Central Post Office C-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. (+372) 617 70

33/(+372) information tel. 661 66 16, fax (+372) 605 33 45, info@post.ee, www.post.ee. Tallinn's main post office is the charming cement block located just opposite the Viru Hotel. Packages , express mail and all other postal services are sent from the floor at ground level. Signs etc are in Estonian or Russian only, however, an English speaking person can always be found. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Old Town Post Office (Vanalinna postipood) C-3, Viru 20, tel. (+372) 627 64 45, www.post.ee. You'll be able to purchase and send post cards and other souvenirs and small items from this handy location. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Telephone

Prepaid mobile calling

Now that there aren't any more public payphones in Estonia, if you want to make a call inside the country or to back home you have a few options. You can use your own mobile carrier for some pretty hefty roaming rates, you can use the phone in your hotel room - also for a small fortune and not so convenient, or you can buy one of the many inexpensive, prepaid starter packages on the market. There are quite a few available in Estonia, here we have listed the major players. These kits are available in most supermarkets, R-Kiosk, Statoil fuelling stations, the post office, from the service provider themselves and can be topped-up online or at the point of purchase. Each listing also states the service provider. See individual websites for further information, SMS prices, web browsing etc.

All lines in Estonia are digital, so there's never a problem with quality. The only real annoyance is that Estonians have fallen in love with their mobiles, so getting a hold of someone on an old-fashioned fixed line, or table phone' as it's called locally, is sometimes a challenge. To get a new telephone line in Tallinn, call Elion on tel. 165 from inside Estonia. Alternatively, send them an email at info@elion. ee or see the website www.elion.ee for more information. As of December 2010 there are no longer any public payphones in all of Estonia, see Prepaid mobile calling for some options.

Mobile service providers

Rest assured that the same GSM mobile you use in Europe or the UK will also work here. To get the best deal on roaming charges, check with your provider at home to see which Estonian network they're partnered with, and set your network selection accordingly. Better still, you can avoid the roaming question entirely by getting a local Estonian number. All you have to do is buy a starter kit, (see Prepaid mobile calling). Alternatively, if you have an Estonian address, you can sign a contract with one of the networks listed here:

Diil (EMT, Elion) tel. (+372) 13445, www.diil.ee.

Starter package costs 1.60, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Top-up minimum 7.61. Calls within Estonia, 0.05/min. Calls within Europe, US and Canada 0.65/min. Elisa tel. (+372) 660 06 00, www.elisa.ee/konekaart/. Starter package costs 1.60, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Calls within Estonia, 0.05/min. Calls within Europe, 0.35-0.50/min depending on the country, US and Canada, 0.50/min. Simpel (EMT, Elion) tel. (+372) 123, www.simpel. ee. Starter package costs 3.20, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Top-up minimum 6.39. Calls within Estonia, 0.06/min. Calls within Europe, 0.35-0.70/ min depending on the country, US 0.49/min and Canada 0.52/min. Smart (Tele 2) tel. (+372) 686 68 66, www.tele2. ee/konekaart.html. Starter package costs 2.88, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Top-up minimum also 2.88. Calls within Estonia, 0.03/min. Calls within Europe and to the US and Canada, 0.60/min. Zen (Elisa) tel. (+372) 660 06 00, www.zen.ee. Starter package costs 3.20, includes a SIM card and the same amount of airtime. Top-up minimum also 3.20. Calls within Estonia, 0.11/min if you top-up with 12.78. Calls within Europe, 0.35-0.5/min depending on the country, US and Canada cost 0.50/min.

- 21:00. Also at: D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9, EMT box in Solaris Centre. Open 10:00 - 21:00 Elisa C-4, Viru Vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 660 06 00, info@elisa.ee, www.elisa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. EMT (Estonian Mobile Telephone) C-4, Viru vljak 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. (+372) 639 71 30, info@emt.ee, www.emt.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tele2 C-4, Viru Vljak 4/6, (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 686 68 66, tele2@tele2.ee, www.tele2.ee. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. TeleYks C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 Elisa box in Viru Centre, tel. (+372) 56 123 123, www.teleyks.ee. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Diil C-4, Viru vljak 4/6, EMT box in Viru Centre, tel. (+372) 13 445, info@diil.ee, www.diil.ee. QOpen 09:00

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There are plenty of opportunities to spend money shopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens of souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Town the main shopping streets are Viru, Mrivahe, Suur-Karja, Vike-Karja and Kullassepa. The most central shopping centre is Viru Centre home also to the Kaubamaja department store. Kaubamaja and Stockmann offer everything from electronics to cosmetics as well as large clothing sections. Other smaller malls include the Foorum Centre, the unique Rotermanni Kaubamaja and the Solaris Centre (see p.87 for listings).

Bookshops
You won't find a great selection of books in English or other foreign languages in Tallinn, but you won't be left without any reading material either. Rahva Raamat has the widest selection of English language novels. Allecto has a good variety of speciality books and textbooks. lecto@allecto.ee. This specialist in foreign language books is a good bet for all sorts of titles. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Apollo Raamatupood D/E-3/4, Estonia pst 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 633 60 00, info@apollo.ee, www. apollo.ee. The most central source for English-language novels and travel guides. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Raamatukoi C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 683 77 10, raamatukoi@raamatukoi.ee, w w w.raamatukoi.ee. Specialising in antique books. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Rahva Raamat C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 644 66 55, www.rahvaraamat.ee. Probably the best stocked in Estonia for English books, with titles throughout the store. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: D-3, Prnu mnt. 10, tel. 644 36 82. Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Art shops
Allagallery C-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 641 55 01, allagallery@hotmail.com, www.allagallery.com. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J Domini Canes C-3, Vene 12/Katariina kik, tel. (+372) 644 52 86, info@dominicanes.eu, www.glassart.ee. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. N Fortune Cookie (nnekpsis) C-3, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10, tuneyourinput@netscape.net, www.onnekypsis.eu. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. J Galerii 2 C-1/2, Lhike jalg 1, tel. (+372) 641 83 08, galerii.kaks@mail.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Galerii 36 C-1/2, Lhike jalg 8, tel. (+372) 644 16 58, galerii36@hot.ee. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Galerii-G D-2, Vabaduse vljak 6, tel. (+372) 644 89 71, info@galeriig.ee, www.galeriig.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hindricus anno 1393 C-2, Lhike jalg 2, tel. (+372) 660 52 03, merike.oosalu@mail.ee. Q Open 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Hobusepea Galerii B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 528 53 24/(+372) 627 67 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www. eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Kunstiaken C-3, Vene 20, tel. (+372) 646 42 09, penelope.pood@gmail.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lhikese Jala Galerii C-1/2, Lhike jalg 6, tel. (+372) 631 47 20, lpgalerii@hot.ee, www.hot.ee/lgalerii. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Myy Art Kunstigalerii C-3, Mrivahe 36, tel. (+372) 554 20 88, piret.kandler@gmail.com, www.piretkandler. com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Navitrolla Galerii B-3, Sulevimgi 1, tel. (+372) 631 37 16, navi@navitrolla.ee, www.navitrolla.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

Allecto H-3, Juhkentali 8, tel. (+372) 627 72 30, al-

Antiques
Aarded D-2, Rtli 13, tel. (+372) 56 66 66
11/(+372) 56 50 07 38, aarded@aarded.ee, www. aarded.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. J Aigrette Antique C-3, Vike-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 641 15 67, info@aigrette.ee, www.aigrette.ee. QJ Andry's Antiques & Collectibles C-3, Viru 9, tel. (+372) 631 42 63, noeps@online.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Antiik C-2, Kinga 5, tel. (+372) 646 62 32, antiqueshop@hot.ee, www.antiqueshop.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Antiik & Kunst C-2, Dunkri 9, tel. (+372) 644 09 23. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Antikvaar C-2, Rataskaevu 20, tel. (+372) 641 82 69. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Idla Antiik B-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 646 40 60, jaanus@idla.ee, www.idla.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. . Old Times Antique C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 529 35 41/(+372) 631 47 25, info@ oldtimes.ee, w w w.oldtimes.ee. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. J Reval Antiik D-2, Harju 13 (entrance at Mrivahe 2), tel. (+372) 644 07 47, info@reval-antique.ee, www.reval-antique.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Shifara Gallery Antiques D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. (+372) 644 35 36, shifara@online.ee, www.shifaraantique.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

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Gifts & Souvenirs
The difficult challenge of selecting souvenirs that actually possess some practical use is actually possible to achieve in Tallinn. However, just as in any town heavily reliant on tourism, you could also go poor buying useless crap or items that really have nothing to do with Estonia, such as the ever prevalent Russian nesting doll. Just like the nesting doll, Old Town is filled with souvenir shops, some even inside other souvenir shops. Here we have listed some of the more reputable ones.

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Angel & Button Shop (Ingli ja Nbi Pood) C-2,

Phavaimu 2, info@puupank.ee, www.puupank.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J Baraka D-3, Prnu mnt 4, barakapood@gmail.com, www.baraka.ee. Funky gifts for the 'cool' crowd. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. 22, tel. (+372) 631 40 76, info@crafts.ee, www.crafts.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 15, tel. 631 33 93. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-1, Lhike jalg 6, tel. 641 17 08. Open 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-4, Viru vljak 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. 610 13 32. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J

Estonian Handicraft House C-2, Pikk

Estonian Craftsmen Shop C-3, Viru 23. This souvenir

shop features different sections devoted to various handicrafts such as leather goods, local delicacies, wood items etc. The craftsmen sell their own wares and you won't find any 'Russian nesting dolls' or other non-Estonian souvenirs for sale here - a plus in our books. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. J Etno.ee H-3, Tartu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 682 51 24, info@ etno.ee, www.etno.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Fankadelik C-3, Vana-Viru 6, info@fankadelik.com, www.fankadelik.com. Fresh designs by young and hip Estonian designers. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J Fortuuna Medieval Butik G-3, Lootsi 3a, www.keraamika.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Handicraft World (Ksitmaailm) C-3, Viru 13/15, on 0 floor, tel. (+327) 642 04 40. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J Helina Tilk C-2, Rataskaevu 6, tel. (+372) 646 42 80, info@helinatilk.com, www.helinatilk.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Also at: D-2, Lhike jalg 5, tel 631 33 28. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Also at: B-3, Pikk 41, tel 641 45 15. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Jardin C-2/3, Apteegi 3, tel. (+372) 631 46 25. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J Roseni 7 (in the inner yard of Rotermanni quarter), tel. (+372) 54 52 58 29, rotermann@kalev. eu, www.kalev.eu. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 16 (in Kalev Marzipan Museum), tel. 646 41 92. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J

07, siiri@loomekombinaat.ee, www.loomekombinaat. ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Natural Style C-3, Viru 1, tel. (+372) 667 51 13, horveit@horveit.ee, www.horveit.ee. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-3, Vene 2, tel. 667 52 00. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 7, tel. 644 21 00. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J Nukupood C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 644 30 58, www.nukupood.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J Oma Asi C-2, Saiakang 1, tel. (+372) 633 50 25, sales@omaasi.com, www.omaasi.com. This quaint little shop houses unique Estonian creations. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. J Raevangla Ksitkelder C-2, Raekoja 4/6, behind Town Hall, tel. (+372) 644 64 88, meie@raepoeke.ee, www.raepoeke.ee. Q Open 10:30 - 16:30, Sun 10:30 - 16.00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. J Saaremaa sepad C-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 646 43 15, sepad@sepad.ee, www.sepad.ee. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. J Sepa ri B-3, Olevimgi 11, tel. (+372) 680 09 71, info@ross.ee, www.ross.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. J Souvenirs (M. Villadisain) C-2, Vanaturu kael 10, tel. (+372) 641 89 03. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Also at: C-2/3, Viru 9, tel. 642 70 19. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 21, tel. 600 41 53. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Dunkri 3, tel. 641 87 35. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 2, tel. 646 45 58. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel 642 05 14. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J Wood & Bug Shop (Puu ja Putuka Pood) C-3, Vene 6, info@puupank.ee, www.puupank.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J

Loomekombinaat G-3, Narva mnt 14, tel. (372) 672 09

Medieval wares
Krambude C-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20,
reserve@oldehansa.ee, www.oldehansa.net/?lang=1. This great medieval shop, brought to us by the folks at Olde Hansa, features authentic wares such as hand-blown glass, hand-crafted pottery, leather items and even spirits. All of the bits and pieces here have been recreated based on countless hours of research and are replicas of items used by actual townsfolk in the days of yore. The items are even functional, which is pretty cool in our books. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. J

Kalev Chocolate Shop B-4,

Katariina Gild C-3, Vene 12/Katariina kik, info@ katariinagild.eu, katariinagild.eu. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. N Kinkepood C-2, Kuninga 2, tel. (+372) 631 47 57. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J

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What to buy in Estonia
in Es tonia) is a gi f t tha t n ever seems to go amiss, but the most Tallinn es qu e i s d efini tel y Vana Tallinn, a 1960s concoction thats considered the quintessential Estonian beverage. Buy the leather pouch thats often sold with it. Amber Though all the petrified tree sap sold here is actually from Lithuania and Poland, its still considered a sought-after gift for anyone visiting the Baltic countries. Ranging in shades from green to white to deep brown, its made into all manner of jewellery and figurines. Ceramics Souvenir sh ops do a good trade in ceramic figures, especially little ceramic buildings. Some are fairy-tale creations that have a hollow inside where you can put a candle. Others are amazingl y precise copies of specific buildings in Old Town. Chocolate Any thing by famous local confectioner, Kalev. Assortments with pictures of Tallinn are a hit. One of the big favorites to buy is their Maiasmokk chocolate candy box. Knits Sweaters of all varieties, knit caps, gloves and mittens are traditional gifts that are sold just about every where in Old Town. The most interesting place to shop for knitwear is definitely the sweater market on Mrivahe, along the Old Town wall near McDonalds. Linen The traditional fabric from centuries gone by is still a popular handicraft items among the locals. Table coverings are the most obvious use, but a linen shirt can also make a stylish gift for your favourite knight. Marzipan Originally used for its medicinal proper ties, the sweet almond-flavoured confection has been produced and sold in Tallinn for at least 500 years and just might have become as popular as Lbeck Marzipan had it not been for those pesky Soviets. Smither y wares Blacksmi th s have been whacking hot iron with hammers for many centuries in Tallinn. You can find items ranging from ashtrays to curtain rods for sale at any given souvenir shop. After all nothing says I love you better than an iron-forged fireplace poker. Wood Toys, dolls, b eer mu gs, kitchen utensils and anything else that can be carved out of juniper are p opular, an d gi ve sou venir shops their distinctive fragrance.

Fashion stores
All of the Estonian designers we have listed can be found in our fashion feature on page 20, some international boutiques can also be found at the end of the feature. bskrotermanni.ee@apranga.com, www.bershka.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Elegance D-3, Vike-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 699 97 68. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Emporio Armani D-3, Prnu mnt 10, tel. (+372) 628 22 72. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Esprit C-2, Raekoja plats 4, tel. (+372) 644 63 56. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: D-4, Melon Centre, Estonia pst 1/3, tel. 646 60 65. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-4, Viru Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 58. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J Gant D-3, Prnu mnt 10, tel. (+372) 628 22 11, info@ gant.ee, www.gant.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J G-Star Raw D-3, Prnu mnt 8/Vike-Karja 9, tel. (+372) 641 01 16, tallinn@gstrading.ee, www.g-star. com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Guess C-4, Rotermanni 5 (Rotermanni quarter), tel. (+372) 666 77 62, guess@denimdream.ee. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: D-4, Viru Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. 610 15 12. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Hugo Boss D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 06 10, hugoboss@apranga.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Jack & Jones C-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre, tel. (+372) 631 47 66, www.jackjones.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU Lacoste Boutique E-2, Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 664 50 09, lacoste@lacoste.ee, www.lacoste. ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Lindex C-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre, tel. (+372) 615 55 40, www.lindex.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU Marc o'Polo C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 14 51. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Harju 1, tel. (+372) 56 66 38 46, marinarinaldi@hot. ee, www.marinarinaldi.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Alcohol Booze of any type (cheap

Bershka C-4, Rotermanni 12, tel. (+372) 664 50 05,

Marina Rinaldi C-2,

MaxMara D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 14, maxmara@hot.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.

Nju Butiik D-2, Harju 5, tel. (+372) 55 69 28 69, info@ nju.ee, www.nju.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00

- 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. J Replay G-3, Narva mnt. 5, Foorum centre, tel. (+372) 664 04 31. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Sfr Store B-4, Mere pst 6e, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 25, www.sfaar.ee/store/.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. JK Versace E-2, Roosikrantsi 23, tel. (+372) 648 80 00, www.versace.com. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Zara C-4, Viru Centre, Viru Vljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 13 66. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

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Ene ja Anni C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 53 65. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Kiika Kki B-3, Uus 28, tel. (+372) 641 68 56, kiikakooki@kiikakooki.ee, www.kiikakooki.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Laura Ashley D-3, Suur-Karja 23, tel. (+372) 627 01 65, info@lauraashley.ee, www.lauraashley.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J Mang I-2, Prnu mnt. 67B, tel. (+372) 656 73 92, mang@mang.ee, www.mang.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Muster J-2, Prnu mnt. 139, tel. (+372) 679 17 46, info@muster.ee, www.muster.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Teaspon J-2, Tri 4, tel. (+372) 650 87 15, kauplus@ teaspon.ee, www.teaspon.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Universaal Universum B-3, Olevimgi 16, tel. (372) 641 17 03, olevi@eksootika.ee, www.eksootika.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Villeroy & Boch C-3, Valli 4, tel. (+372) 644 04 89, info@villeroy-boch.ee, www.villeroy-boch.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J Zizi C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 12 22, zizi@zizi.ee, www.zizi.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Also at: C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. 644 11 55. Open 10:00- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Knits & Linen

Glenfield C-3, Viru 10, tel. (+372) 631 39 02. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Hansa Lina C-2, Dunkri 1, tel. (+372) 644 03 94. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. J Jolleri Handicraft Chamber (Ksitkamber) D-3, Mrivahe 11, tel. (+372) 648 45 88, info@jollery-bunny. ee, www.jollery-bunny.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J Kalliver C-3, Mrivahe 31, tel. (+372) 646 44 71. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. J Lino C-2, Pikk 12, tel. (+372) 646 20 12. QOpen 10.00 - 18:00. Maret-M C-3, Viru 20, tel. (+372) 644 02 21. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. J Rewill C-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 33 62, rewill@ rewill.ee, www.rewill.ee. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J VeTa C-2, Pikk 6, tel. (+372) 646 41 40, www.veta.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. 644 02 82. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J Villa-Nella C-2, Kinga 6. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. J

Jewellery
Aurum C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 644 98 74, aurum@aurum.ee, www.aurum.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J by Karin E E-2, Roosikrantsi 8, tel. (+372) 56 21 65 80, bykarine@bykarine.com, www.bykarine.com. Q J Goldman C-3, Suur-Karja 9, tel. (+372) 641 93 33, boutique@goldman.ee, www.goldman.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J Gold Market C-2, Kullassepa 11, tel. (+372) 644 40 01, goldmarket@hot.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J Juveel D-3, Prnu mnt 8, tel. (+372) 644 42 16, myyk@ juveel.ee, www.juveel.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Kuldgraal B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 646 42 01, www.kuldgraal.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kuldsrme Kullari D-3, Vike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 640 68 80, info@goldfinger.ee, www.goldfinger.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Russkie Samotsvet D-3, Vike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 631 30 11. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Sangla juveelisalong C-2, Kullassepa 7, tel. (+372) 644 23 13, sangla@online.ee, www.sangla.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Sangla kullassepari C-2, Kullassepa 3, tel. (+372) 501 28 35, www.kuld.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Kids' stuff
Bambini B-3, Pikk 48, tel. (+372) 646 43 94. Baby and children's clothes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. J

Jacadi C-3, Vike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 601 02 31. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00
- 16:00. J

Juku Toy Centre Mustame tee 3, tel. (+372)

652 55 50, mustamae@jukukeskus.ee, w w w. jukukeskus.ee. Toys. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Laste Maailm D-3, Prnu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 644 93 80/(+372) 644 28 70, laste.maailm@mail.ee, www.lastemaailm.ee. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Nukupood C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 644 30 58, www.nukupood.ee. Dolls and toys. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J Taibula H/I-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Centre), tel. (+372) 665 03 22, taibula@taibula.ee, www.taibula. ee. Educational and environmentally friendly toys. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. T

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shoPPing
Markets
Balti Jaama Turg B-1, Kopli 1, tel. (+372) 644 61
28. A throwback to the Soviet-era, the market area behind the train station is where locals go to get spare parts, used clothes and sides of beef. This is one of our favourites for local colour but enter at your own risk. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Central Market (Keskturg) H-3/4, Keldrime 9, tel. (+372) 660 63 04. A popular destination for fresh food items. Also has clothing and other assorted 'treasures'. Take tram N2 or N4 from the centre towards lemiste, make sure to get off at the Keskturg stop. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Fish Market F-2, Kalaranna 1, www.tallinnakalaturg. ee. Located on the aptly named 'Fish Beach' street, this speciality fish market has everything from shark fins to monk fish. We don't suggest taking anything from this market home as a souvenir though - your fellow passengers thank-you in advance. Q Open only on Saturdays 10:00 - 16:00. Knit Market (Sweater Wall) C-3, corner of Viru and Mrivahe. Little old ladies sell their knitwear here along the Old Town wall. Shopping here is almost a tradition for visitors. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Mere Art Market C-4, Mere pst. 1. Lots of knits on sale in the yard adjacent the tram stop. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Merekeskus A-4, Mere pst 10, tel. (+372) 644 91 38, merekeskus@talrand.ee. Cheap, tacky goods are sold here, mainly to Finnish day-trippers. Pick up some questionable underwear or 'genuine' CD. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Sadama Turg G-3, Sadama 25-4, sadamaturg@ sadamaturg.ee, www.sadamaturg.ee. Various Estonian handicrafts and food items can be found at this new market in the port area. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Shoes
ABC King C-3, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 85, viru@abcking.ee, www.abcking.ee. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. Galerii D-3, Vike-Karja 6, tel. (+372) 641 80 88. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Rem King D-3, Vike-Karja 7, tel. (+372) 631 38 59, www.rem.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J

kaevu 2, tel. (+372) 641 64 40, info@ vivianvau.ee, www.vivianvau.ee. The exquisite shoes at Vivian Vau are imported mainly from Italy and Spain and are crafted from the finest materials and leathers. Sizes from 34 - 45. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Vivian Vau Shoe Salon C-2, Ratas-

Alcohol
Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited from 22:00 until 10:00.

Food Delicatessens
Il Gallo Nero C-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 646
21 07, osteria@italbaltica.com. This place is so Italian you may forget you're in Tallinn. Expect all the best Italian wares, wines and converstaion. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. J

Bakhos C-3, Aia 5b, tel. (+372) 55 62 56 05, www. bakhos.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. In Vino Veritas C-2, Lai 6, tel. (+372) 641 84 40,

Grocers
Hyper Rimi (Norde Centrum) G-3, Lootsi 7, tel.
(+372) 669 89 00, info.lootsi@rimibaltic.com, www. rimi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Kolmjalg (the Everything Store) C-2, Pikk 11, tel. (+372) 631 15 11. QOpen 24hrs. Rimi C-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 644 38 55, kaubahall@ rimibaltic.com, www.rimi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Solaris Food Shop D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 663 13 30, info@solaris.ee, www.solaris.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Stockmann H-3, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, fax (+372) 633 95 56, www.stockmann.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULK Tallinna Kaubamaja D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667 31 00, tallinn@kaubamaja.ee, www.kaubamaja. ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Westman E-2, Prnu mnt 19, tel. (+372) 660 51 82. Q Open 24hrs.

info@invinoveritas.ee, www.invinoveritas.ee. Wine shop. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Liviko C-3, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 683 77 45, kplmere@liviko.ee, www.alcostore.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40, Open 10:00 - 20:00. Mindy C-2, Kullassepa 13, tel. (+372) 631 47 09. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. R-Alko C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. (+372) 641 98 70. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Wine and beers of the world

Bestwine C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 622 89 76, info@bestwine.ee, www.bestwine.ee. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Sun. J Drink Beer Shop D-3, Mrivahe 15. QOpen 12:00 - 10:00. Closed Sun. J Finewine E-2, Prnu mnt. 30, tel. (+372) 622 87 00, www.finewine.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Negossiant B-3, Lai 42, tel. (+372) 642 40 37, vein@negossiant.ee, www.negossiant.ee. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J

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Shopping centres
De La Gardie C-3, Viru 13, tel. (+372) 681 80 78,
ragne@estconde.ee. Centrally located with a variety of smaller shops and some bigger brand names too. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU Kristiine Centre H-1, Endla 45, tel. (+372) 665 03 41, www.kristiinekeskus.ee. A large, modern mall just outside the city centre. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00. Prisma grocery store open 08:00 - 23:00. ULKW Norde Centrum G-3, Lootsi 7, tel. (+372) 669 89 00. A medium-sized place near the port, convenient if you're leaving by ship. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. LW Rotermanni Kaubamaja B-4, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 626 42 00, info@rotermannikaubamaja.ee, w w w.rotermannikaubamaja.ee. This shopping complex in Tallinn's newly developed and renovated Rotermanni district houses mainly upscale international brands. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JUL SadaMarket A-4, Sadama 6/8, tel. (+372) 661 45 50, info@sadamarket.ee, www.sadamarket.ee. Certainly the most tacky of shopping centres, this one stocks mainly Chinese or other Asian 'originals'. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Sikupilli H-4, Tartu mnt 87, tel. (+372) 605 95 00, sikupilli@sikupilli.ee, www.sikupilli.ee. Located quite close to the airport, this small shopping centre has a food-store, electronics shops and just enough fashion ou tlets to keep you smar tl y dressed. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00. Supermarket open 08:00 - 23:00. Restaurants 08:00 - 22:00. K pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 51 00, info@solaris.ee, www. solaris.ee. Although more of an all-in-one entertainment complex than purely a shopping centre, Solaris does have a reasonable amount of shops, often higher end, where you can leave your money in lieu of goods. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Shops open 10:00 - 21:00. Restaurants open 10:00 - 23:00. JUFLK

The Foorum Centre G-3, Narva mnt. 5, info@foo-

rumkeskus.ee, www.foorumshopping.ee. A collection of high end shops, located at street level, in a beautifully designed building. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. JK 4, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 14 44, fax (+372) 610 14 01, info@virukeskus.com, www.virukeskus.com. This 30,000m2 shopping and dining complex a large, but very classy addition to downtown's commercial scene. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. JULFKW

Solaris D/E-3/4, Estonia

Viru Keskus (Viru Centre) C-

3, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, w w w. stockmann.ee. The local branch of Finland's premiere department store is a somewhat high-end affair. Just about everything you can imagine is sold in the five-storey complex. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULKW

Stockmann H-

lemiste Centre I-5, Suur-Sjame 4, next to Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 603 49 99, info@ulemiste.ee, www. ulemiste.ee. This gigantic, two-level shopping mall next to Tallinn's airport has hands-down the most retail space of any mall in town. For serious shoppers, it's worth the short trip from the centre. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Tallinna Kaubamaja D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667

31 00, tallinn@kaubamaja.ee, www.kaubamaja.ee. Tallinn's giant, home-grown department store dates back to 1960, but has done a great job of keeping pace with the times. A glass gallery connects it to the Viru Keskus, where it has additional departments. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. JUKW

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Business direCtory
Accountants
Audest H-2, Liivalaia 5-65, tel. (+372) 646 32 67, fax
(+372) 646 14 25, info@audest.ee, www.audest.ee. Deloitte E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. (+372) 640 65 00, fax (+372) 640 65 03, eesti@deloitteCE.com, www. deloitte.ee. Ernst & Young Baltic H-3, Rvala 4, tel. (+372) 611 46 10, fax (+372) 611 46 11, tallinn@ee.ey.com, www. ey.com/ee. PricewaterhouseCoopers E-2, Prnu mnt 15, tel. (+372) 614 18 00, fax (+372) 614 19 00, tallinn@ ee.pwc.com, www.pwc.ee.

Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 22, fax (+372) 631 05 21, amcham@ amcham.ee, www.amcham.ee. British Estonian Chamber of Commerce G-3, Ahtri 6A, tel. (+372) 56 622 623/(+44) 20 32 395 779, fax (+372) 611 69 54, becc@becc.ee, www.becc.ee. Enterprise Estonia H-4, Lasname 2, tel. (+372) 627 97 00, fax (+372) 627 97 01, eas@eas.ee, www.eas. ee. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Chamber of Commerce C-1, Toom-Kooli 17, tel. (+372) 604 00 60, fax (+372) 604 00 61, koda@ koda.ee, www.koda.ee.
Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport - Gate 3, tel. (+372) 605 81 21, fax (+372) 663 11 00, info@ estonianexpocenter.com, www.estonianexpocenter. com. Year-round, permanent exhibit of Estonian companies and their products and services, located inside the passenger terminal of the Tallinn Airport.

Banks
Krediidipank G-3, Narva mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 669 09
21, fax (+372) 669 09 54, info@krediidipank.ee, www. krediidipank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Marfin Bank E-2, Prnu mnt 12, tel. (+372) 680 25 00, fax (+372) 680 25 01, info@marfinbank.ee, www. marfinbank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Nordea G-3, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 628 33 00/1772, fax (+372) 628 32 01, tallinn@nordea.com, www. nordea.ee. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Sampo Pank G-3, Narva mnt. 11, tel. (+372) 680 08 00, fax (+372) 675 31 01, info@sampopank.ee, www. sampopank.ee. QOpen 09.00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SEB H-3, Tornime 2, tel. (+372) 665 51 00, fax (+372) 665 51 03, info@seb.ee, www.seb.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at: E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat-Sun. Swedbank H-2, Liivalaia 8, tel. (+372) 631 03 10, fax (+372) 631 04 10, info@swedbank.ee, www.swedbank. ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: H-3, Rvala pst 5. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Tallinn Business Bank (Tallinna ripank) D-4, Estonia pst 5a, tel. (+372) 668 80 60, fax (+372) 668 80 65, info@tbb.ee, www.tbb.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at: C-3, Vana-Viru 7. Open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00.

Estonian Expo Centre J-5,

German Industry and Commerce in Estonia B-2,

Suurtki 4b, tel. (+372) 627 69 40, fax (+372) 627 69 50, info.ee@ahk-balt.org, www.ahk-balt.org. Swedish Chamber of Commerce D-2, Rtli 9 ( Swedish St. Michael's Church in Tallinn), tel. (+372) 501 98 13, info@swedishchamber.ee, www.swedishchamber.ee.

Conference centres
Estonian National Library Conference Centre E-1,
Tnismgi 2, tel. (+372) 630 72 62/(+372) 631 14 16, fax (+372) 631 12 02, konverents@nlib.ee, www.nlib. ee/konverentsikeskus.

Office Supplies
Koopia Kolm C-3, Vana-Viru 3, tel. (+372) 627 51
60, vanaviru@koopia3.ee, www.koopia3.ee. Photocopying, office supplies and other services. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: Rvala pst 8, tel 660 4702, 50 31 720, revala@koopia3.ee. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia Conference Center

E-4, Liivalaia 33, Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia, tel. (+372) 631 53 14, fax (+372) 669 06 91, info.olumpia.tallinn@ radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/olumpiahoteltallinn. Sokos Hotel Viru Conference Centre C-4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 93 00, fax (+372) 680 92 36, viru. reservation@sok.fi, www.sokoshotels.fi/ee.

Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Business direCtory
Lawyers
Lepik & Luhar C-2, Niguliste 4, tel. (+372) 630 64 60,
fax (+372) 630 64 63, tallinn@lawin.ee, www.lawin.ee. Luiga Mody Hl Borenius E-2, Prnu mnt 15, tel. (+372) 665 18 88, fax (+372) 665 18 99, lmh@lmh.ee, www.lmh.ee. Raidla Lejins & Norcous E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. (+372) 640 71 70, fax (+372) 640 71 71, rln@rln.ee, www.rln.ee. Sorainen E-2, Prnu mnt 15, tel. (+372) 640 09 00, fax (+372) 640 09 01, estonia@sorainen.ee, www.sorainen.ee. Tark & Co E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. (+372) 611 09 00, fax (+372) 611 09 11, tarkco@tarkco.ee, www.tarkco.com.

89

Internet service providers

In addition to internet services most of these companies also offer cable television and even land-line telephone.

Elion G-3, Endla 16, tel. (+372) 165/(+372) 631 33 22, info@elion.ee, www.elion.ee. QOpen 09:00

Notaries
Aivar Mesikpp H-3, Rvala pst 3, tel. (+372) 699
63 00, fax (+372) 699 63 01, info@notarnet.ee, www. notarnet.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Anne Saaber H-3, Maakri 23a, tel. (+372) 666 20 10, fax (+372) 666 20 11, anne.saaber@notar.ee, www. saaber.net. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Wed 09:30 - 18:00, Fri 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Heli Mttus E-3, Estonia pst. 15, tel. (+372) 610 39 30, fax (+372) 610 39 34, heli.mottus@notar.ee, www.notar.ee/18383. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Piret Press G/H-3, Rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) 664 52 77, fax (+372) 664 52 66, piret.press@notarid.ee, www. notar.ee/18383. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tiit Sepp H-3, Rvala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 699 63 00, fax (+372) 699 63 01, info@notarnet.ee, www.notarnet.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Elisa C-4, Viru Vljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 660 06 00, info@elisa.ee, www.elisa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Starman E-3, Rvala p st 19, tel. (+372) 1770/(+372) 677 99 00, klienditugi@starman.ee, www.starman.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Tele2 C-4, Viru Vljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 686 68 66, fax (+372) 686 68 77, tele2@tele2.ee, www.tele2.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Cultural centres
Danish Cultural Institute C-3, Vene 14, tel./fax
(+372) 646 63 73, info@dankultur.ee, w w w. dankultur.ee. Estonian Institute D-2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372) 631 43 55, fax (+372) 631 43 56, einst@einst. ee, www.einst.ee. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Finnish Institute C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 631 39 17, fax (+372) 631 39 52, tallinn@finst.ee, www. finst.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. French Cultural Centre C-2, Kuninga 4, tel. (+372) 627 11 91, fax (+372) 627 11 98, info@ccf. ee, www.ccf.ee. Library, resource centre and cultural events. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (+372) 627 69 62, dkigi@tallinn.goethe.org, www. goethe.de/ins/ee/tal/deindex.htm. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00; 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. GLIK (Gay and Lesbian Info Centre) , tel. (+372) 645 45 45, fax (+372) 645 45 50, glik@gay.ee, www.gay.ee. Centre is currently closed, however, they can field questions by e-mail or over the telephone. Hungarian Institute C-1, Piiskopi 2, tel./fax (+372) 644 08 17, unginst@unginst.org.ee, www. unginst.org.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russian Cultural Centr e C-4, Mer e p st 5, tel. (+372) 644 58 65, fax (+372) 641 83 01, venekeskus@venekeskus.e e, w w w. venekeskus.ee. The British Council D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. (+372) 625 77 88, fax (+372) 625 77 99, info@britishcouncil.ee, www.britishcouncil.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate
Arco Vara G-3, Je 2b, tel. (+372) 614 46 00, fax (+372)
614 46 01, info@arcovara.ee, www.arcovara.ee. Baltic Property Expert G-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. (+372) 626 42 50/(+372) 626 42 51, bpe.tallinn@bpe.ee, www.bpe.ee. QOpen 8:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goodson & Red G-3, Je 5, tel. (+372) 666 16 50/(+44) 208 816 81 74, info@goodsonandred.com, www.goodsonandred.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Majaekspert C-3, Viru 21, tel. (+372) 627 04 90, fax (+372) 646 62 12, info@majaekspert.ee, www.majaekspert.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ober-Haus G-4, Narva mnt. 53, tel. (+372) 665 97 00, fax (+372) 665 97 01, estonia@ober-haus.com, www. ober-haus.com. Pindi Kinnisvara H-3, Tartu mnt. 16, tel. (+372) 610 39 00/(+372) 1918, fax (+372) 610 39 01, tallinn@pindi.ee, www.pindi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Property in Estonia /(+44) 870 768 1020, enquiries@ property-in-estonia.co.uk, www.property-in-estonia.co.uk. Rime Kinnisvara I-2, Tatari 64, tel. (+372) 683 77 77, fax (+372) 683 77 88, rime@rime.ee, www.rime.ee.

German Cultural Institute/Goethe-Institute Tallinn B-2, Suurtki 4b, tel. (+372) 627 69 60, fax

Translators & Interpreters

Connectus G-3, Ahtri 8, tel. (+372) 641 18 00, fax (+372)
631 38 32, info@connectus.ee, www.connectus.ee. Feanor H-3, Rvala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 56 56 37 24, fax (+372) 699 63 39, translations@feanor.com, www. feanor.com/trad_ee.htm. Interlex Translation Bureau D-4, P. Sda 14-2, tel. (+372) 630 96 60, fax (+372) 630 96 61, interlex@ interlex.ee, www.interlex.ee.

Luisa Tlkebroo H-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. (+372) 626 42 82/(+372) 626 42 84, fax (+372) 626 42 80, tallinn@ luisa.ee, www.luisa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Technical Translation Centre E-2, Prnu mnt 23, tel. (+372) 661 37 38, fax (+372) 661 37 39, english. translationco.eu, info@TranslationCo.eu. April - May 2011

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liFestyle direCtory

Gonsiori 2 (Kaubamaja ground floor), tel. (+372) 669 13 00, roosike@ roosike.ee, www.roosike.ee. This beauty salon offers loads of refreshing and revitalising treatments for the weary traveller. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JL

Roosikrantsi Beauty Salon H-3,

SpaLife (Shnelli Day Spa) B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel.

(+372) 631 01 60, info@spalife.ee, www.spalife.ee. Hair & beauty salon and a spa. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Dry cleaners
Ecoclean H-3, Liivalaia 53 (Stockmann 5th floor), tel.
(+372) 668 04 82, info@ecoclean.ee, www.ecoclean. ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Italdryclean E-2, Roosikrantsi 9, tel. (+372) 631 38 04, info@italdryclean.ee, www.italdryclean.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Kati Koduabi O C-3, Uus 9, tel. (+372) 631 45 66. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Key cuts Beauty care

Babor SPA G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel.
(+372) 664 04 88, info@baborspa. ee, www.baborspa.ee. Considered to be one of the top Day Spas in the city, Babor will pamper both the inner and outer you. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J

Fix-Serv C-3, Aia 3, (WW Passaa), tel. (+372) 627 12 34. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Laundrettes
Seebimull H-2, Liivalaia 7, tel. (+372) 643 33 33, www.alexpress.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Sol Eesti H-3, Maakri 23, tel. (+372) 661 20 75, sol@ sol.ee, www.sol.ee. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Day Spa D-2, Vana-Posti 4, tel. (+372) 641 87 01,

info@dayspa.ee, www.dayspa.ee. Beauty salon and spa. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. De la Gardie Beauty Parlour C-3, Valli 4, tel. (+372) 631 47 49, info@dlg.ee, www.dlg.ee. Hairstyling and facial treatments. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Gersi Stiilistuudio G/H-3, Tartu mnt. 2 (City Plaza), tel. (+372) 681 80 80/(+372) 641 91 81, gersi@online. ee, www.gersi.ee. Personal styling service. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Intersalon H-3, Lauteri 5, tel. (+372) 610 67 89/(+372) 610 67 87, salong@sirowa.ee, www.intersalon.ee. Professional hairdressers. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Money transfer
MoneyGram (Monex Exchange) C-3, Viru 23, tel.
(+372) 644 01 09, info@monex-money.com, www. monex-money.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J Western Union (Tallinn Post Office) C-4, Narva mnt 1, tel. (+372) 617 70 33/(+372) 1661, info@post.ee, www.post.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at: C-3, Viru 20, tel. 627 64 45. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Photo services
Fotoluks C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 17, viru@fotoluks.ee, www.fotoluks.ee. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. J Fotomeister D-4, Rvala 8, tel. (+372) 660 45 38, foto@fotomeister.ee, www.fotomeister.ee. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J

Kalev Spa Wellness Centre B-3,

Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 50, wellness@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa. ee. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 17.00. JUFLDCW

Meriton Wellness Spa G-2, Paldsiki mnt 4, tel. (+372)

628 82 21, wellness@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. D

Shoe repair
Fix-Serv C-3, Aia 3 (WW Passaz), tel. (+372) 627 12 34. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Tallinn In Your Pocket

health
Most travellers' biggest health concern is the quality of the water. Well, here in Estonia depending on the location, the taste can take some getting used to, but we've been drinking the water for years without any adverse effects. In most areas, however, the water is remarkably hard (i.e. high in mineral content), which means it takes a lot longer to rinse the shampoo out of your hair. Medical services are fairly cheap in Estonia. Though the quality of service has improved dramatically over the past decade, most Western residents still go to Finland or elsewhere when a major operation is needed. Interestingly, the number of foreigners coming to Estonia for cheaper cosmetic surgery and dental work is on the rise. For a less extreme - and less painful - type of bargain, you can consider getting your perscription glasses made here.

91

Massage club
tel. (+372) 631 34 04, info@ hedone.ee, www.hedone.ee. A different kind of escape from the brutal Baltic weather is this sophisticated, oriental massage club. Slip on a comfy robe, sink into a deep sofa, take a puff on the water pipe and get wet in the Jacuzzi that dominates the main room. Before you ask, here 'massage' means just that, though the hands-on staff wear alluring belly-dancers' outfits. There are several varieties of massages available. Reservation is recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. JX

Hedone C/D-3, Sauna 1,

Clinics & Hospitals

Fertilitas Private Hospital Kaluri tee 5a, Viimsi, tel.
(+372) 605 96 05/(+372) 605 96 00, fax (+372) 605 96 99, fertilitas@fertilitas.ee, www.fertilitas.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at: E-4, Kaupmehe 4, 660 40 72, 646 35 39. Open Mon-Fri 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Massage
(+372) 669 67 73/(+372) 569 37 677, info@aurea. ee, www.aurea.ee. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Kaarli Massaai Keskus H-2, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 91 14/(+372) 515 29 99, info@kaarlimassaaz.ee, www.kaarlimassaaz.ee. Q N

Aurea Massage Studio G-3, Narva mnt 7d, tel.

Regional Hospital of North Estonia - Mustame block J.Stiste tee 19, tel. (+372) 697 13 00/(+372)

emergency 697 14 00, info@regionaalhaigla.ee, www. regionaalhaigla.ee. Tallinn Central Hospital H-3, Ravi 18, tel. (+372) 1900/(+372) 622 70 70, 620 70 40 (emergency care), info@itk.ee, www.itk.ee. Tallinn Children's Hospital H-3, Tervise 28, tel. (+372) 697 71 13/(+372) 697 72 00, fax (+372) 697 71 43, admin@lastehaigla.ee, www.lastehaigla.ee. Tallinn Magdaleena Hospital & Policlinics I-2, Prnu mnt. 104, tel. (+372) 622 7070/(+372) 1900, www.itk.ee.

Opticians
Lens Optika G-3, Narva mnt 5 (Foorum Centre), tel.
(+372) 664 04 40, foorumkeskus@lensoptika.ee, www. lensoptika.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Norman Optika H-3, Rvala pst 6, tel. (+372) 646 71 23, fax (+372) 646 71 25, ravala@normanoptika.ee, www.normanoptika.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Reval Optika G-3, Narva mnt 2, tel. (+372) 660 19 16, info@revaloptika.ee, www.revaloptika.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Tallinna Optika C-3, Aia 3/Vana-Viru 10 (WW Passaa), tel. (+372) 627 12 09, ww@opti.ee, www.opti.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Dentists
Baltic Medical Partners H-3, Tartu mnt 32, tel. (+372)
601 05 50, info@bmp.ee, www.bmp.ee. Private clinic. Biolase H-3, Tar tu mnt 28, tel. (+372) 641 86 25/(+372) 56 49 36 96, info@biolase.ee, www.biolase. ee. Private clinic offering laser whitening. Eurodent G-3, Lootsi 3A, tel. (+372) 611 55 51, info@ eurodent.ee, www.eurodent.ee. Private clinic staffed by dentists trained in Turku, Finland. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tallinna Hambapolikliinik E-1, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 92 30/(+372) 611 91 87, reg@hambapol. ee, www.hambapol.ee. Large, state clinic. Call here in an emergency. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Terve Hammas H-4, Faehlmanni 5, tel. (+372) 646 14 93, tervehammas@tervehammas.ee, www.tervehammas.ee. English-speaking service.

Pharmacies
Koduapteek Apteek 1 C-3/4, Aia 7 (Rimi supermarket), tel. (+372) 648 41 99, www.apteek1.ee. QOpen
09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Tnisme Apteek E-1, Tnismgi 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 82, tonismae@farmacia.ee, www.farmacia.ee. Q Open 24hrs. likooli apteek D-4, Kaubamaja 3 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 669 13 80, kaubamaja@ya.ee, www.ya.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Saunas
Club 26 H-3, Liivalaia 33, Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia,
tel. (+372) 631 55 85/(+372) 631 53 00, olympia. club26@radissonblu.com, www.club26.ee. On the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia. 20/hr until 15:00, 40/hr after. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Kalev SPA Hotel B-3/4, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 00, kalevspa@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. Three VIP saunas 35 - 49/hr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Kalma A-1, Vana-Kalamaja 9a, tel. (+372) 627 18 11, www.kalmasaun.ee. Tallinn's oldest public bath. Men 8 - 9/person, women 6.50 - 8/person. Two private saunas also available for rent by the hour. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. N

Urgent care
Need help now? The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. 697 11 45, can provide treatment advice in English, and if need be, direct you to the appropriate hospital. If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try the round-the-clock Tnisme pharmacy (see pharmacies). For dramatic situations that require and ambulance, call tel. 112. Emergency operators speak English.

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oFFiCials
Embassies
Austria H-3, Vambola 6, tel. (+372) 627 87 40/(+372)
627 87 45, fax (+372) 631 43 65, tallinn-ob@bmeia.gv.at, www.austrianembassy.ee. Belarus J-2, Magdaleena 3, section b, tel. (+372) 651 55 00/(+372) 655 80 01, estonia@belembassy.org, www. estonia.belembassy.org. Belgium C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel. (+372) 627 41 00, fax (+372) 644 01 22, tallinn@diplobel.be, www.diplomatie. be/tallinn/. Canada C-1, Toomkooli 13, 2nd floor, tel. (+372) 627 33 11/(+372) 627 33 10 (Visas), fax (+372) 627 33 12, tallinn@canada.ee, www.canada.ee. China G-5, Narva mnt. 98, tel. (+372) 601 58 30/(+372) 601 58 31, fax (+372) 601 58 33, mailoffice@chinaembassy.ee, www.chinaembassy.ee. Czech G-4, Lahe 4, tel. (+372) 627 44 00/(+372) 627 44 01, fax (+372) 631 47 16, tallinn@embassy.mzv.cz, www.mzv.cz/tallinn. Denmark D-1, Wismari 5, tel. (+372) 630 64 00, fax (+372) 630 64 21, tllamb@um.dk, www.ambtallinn. um.dk. Finland C-1, Kohtu 4, tel. (+372) 610 32 00, fax (+372) 610 32 81, sanomat.tal@formin.fi, www.finland.ee. France H-2, Toom-Kuninga 20, tel. (+372) 616 16 10/(+372) 616 16 18 (Visas), fax (+372) 616 16 20, info@ ambafrance-ee.org, www.ambafrance-ee.org. Georgia C-4, Viru vljak 2 (Metro Plaza), tel. (+372) 698 85 90, fax (+372) 641 30 00, embassy.georgia@mail.ee, tallinn.emb@mfa.gov.ge. Germany H-2, Toom-Kuninga 11, tel. (+372) 627 53 00/(+372) 627 53 03 (Visas), fax (+372) 627 53 04, info@tallinn.diplo.de, www.tallinn.diplo.de. Greece D-3, Prnu mnt 12, 2nd floor, tel. (+372) 640 35 60, fax (+372) 640 35 61, grembest@yahoo.com. Hungary G-5, Narva mnt 122, tel. (+372) 605 18 80, fax (+372) 605 40 88, mission.tal@kum.hu, www.mfa.gov. hu/kulkepviselet/EE/ee/. Ireland C-3, Vene 2, 2nd floor, tel. (+372) 681 18 88, fax (+372) 681 18 89, tallinnembassy@dfa.ie, www.embassyofireland.ee. Italy C-3, Vene 2, 3rd floor, tel. (+372) 627 61 60, fax (+372) 631 13 70, ambasciata.tallinn@esteri.it, www. ambtallinn.esteri.it. Japan D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 31/(+372) 631 05 32, fax (+372) 631 05 33, www.ee.emb-japan.go.jp. Latvia E-1, Tnismgi 10, tel. (+372) 627 78 50/(+372) 627 78 65 (Visas), fax (+372) 627 78 55, embassy.estonia@mfa.gov.lv, consulate.estonia@mfa.gov.lv, consulate. estonia@mfa.gov.lv. Lithuania B-3, Uus 15, tel. (+372) 616 49 90/(+372) 616 49 92, fax (+372) 641 20 13, amb.ee@urm.lt, ee.mfa.lt. Monaco C-4, Viru vljak 3 (Nordic Hotel Forum), tel. (+372) 503 88 85, juri.tamm@gmail.com. Netherlands C-1, Rahukohtu 4 -I, tel. (+372) 680 55 00, fax (+372) 680 55 01, info@netherlandsembassy.ee, www.netherlandsembassy.ee. Norway D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 627 10 00, fax (+372) 627 10 01, emb.tallinn@mfa.no, www.norra.ee. Poland C-2, Suur-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 627 82 06/(+372) 627 82 08 (Visas), fax (+372) 644 52 21, poola.info@mail. ee, www.tallinn.polemb.net. Portugal C-1, Kohtu 10, tel. (+372) 611 74 68, fax (+372) 611 74 67, emb.portugal.tallin@gmail.com. Russia C-2, Pikk 19, tel. (+372) 646 41 75/(+372) 646 41 69, fax (+372) 646 41 78, vensaat@online.ee, www. rusemb.ee. Spain H-3, Liivalaia 13/15, 6th floor, tel. (+372) 667 66 51/(+372) 667 66 58, fax (+372) 631 37 67, emb.tallin@ mae.es, www.mae.es/embajadas/tallin. Sweden B-3, Pikk 28, tel. (+372) 640 56 00, fax (+372) 640 56 95, swedemb@neti.ee, ambassaden.tallinn@ foreign.ministry.se, www.sweden.ee. Turkey G-4, Narva mnt. 30, tel. (+372) 627 28 80, fax (+372) 627 28 85, tallinn@turkishembassy.ee, tallinn. emb.mfa.gov.tr. UK H-2, Wismari 6, tel. (+372) 667 47 00, fax (+372) 667 47 55, infotallinn@fco.gov.uk, ukinestonia.fco.gov.uk. Ukraine G-4, Lahe 6, tel. (+372) 601 58 15/(+372) 601 58 35, fax (+372) 601 58 16, embassyofukraine@ gmail.comwww.mfa.gov.ua/estonia, www.mfa.gov. ua/estonia. USA E-3/4, Kentmanni 20, tel. (+372) 668 81 00, fax (+372) 668 82 65, USAsaatkond@state.gov, www. usemb.ee.

Government & State

Estonian Foreign Ministry E-4, Islandi vljak 1, tel.
(+372) 637 70 00, fax (+372) 637 70 99, vminfo@vm.ee, www.vm.ee. Government C-1, Rahukohtu 3, tel. (+372) 693 55 55, fax (+372) 693 55 54, valitsus@rk.ee, www.valitsus. ee. Parliament C/D-1, Lossi plats 1a, tel. (+372) 631 63 31, fax (+372) 631 63 34, riigikogu@riigikogu.ee, www. riigikogu.ee. President Toomas Hendrik Ilves G-5, Weizenbergi 39, tel. (+372) 631 62 02, fax (+372) 631 62 50, vpinfo@ vpk.ee, www.president.ee. Prime Minister Andrus Ansip C-1, Rahukohtu 3, tel. (+372) 693 57 01/(+372) 693 55 55, fax (+372) 693 55 54, peaminister@riik.ee, www.peaminister.ee.

International organisations
European Union Information Centre G-3, Rvala 4,
1st floor, entrance from Laikmaa str., tel. (+372) 626 44 00/(+372) 626 44 01, comm-rep-tll@ec.europa.eu, www. euroopaliit.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Organisation for Migration (IOM) G3, Je 9, tel. (+372) 611 63 66, fax (+372) 611 63 67, iomtallinn@iom.int, www.iom.fi. Nordic Council of Ministers B-2, Lai 29, tel. (+372) 627 31 00, fax (+372) 627 31 10, info@norden.ee, www. norden.ee. Open Estonia Foundation D-4, Estonia pst. 5a, tel. (+372) 631 37 91, fax (+372) 631 37 96, info@oef.org. ee, www.oef.org.ee. UNICEF G-1, Auna 6, tel. (+372) 600 03 00, fax (+372) 600 03 05, unicef@unicef.ee, www.unicef.ee. World Health Organisation (WHO) H-4, Gonsiori 29, tel. (+372) 626 93 50, fax (+372) 626 93 53, est@who. org.ee, ee.euro.who.int.

Municipality
City Centre Government B-2, Nunne 18, tel. (+372)
645 72 00, fax (+372) 645 72 49, kesklinn@tallinnlv. ee, www.tallinn.ee/kesklinn. Mayor Edgar Savisaar D-2, Vabaduse vljak 7, tel. (+372) 640 41 00, fax (+372) 640 43 27, lvpost@tallinnlv.ee, www.tallinn.ee. Tallinn City Council C-4, Vana-Viru 12, tel. (+372) 694 32 01, fax (+372) 694 32 59, infopunkt@tallinnlv.ee, www.tallinn.ee. Tallinn City Government E-2, Vabaduse vljak 7, tel. (+372) 640 41 41, fax (+372) 640 43 27, lvpost@tallinnlv.ee, www.tallinn.ee.

Tallinn In Your Pocket

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street register
Aarde G-1 Adamsoni H-2 Ahtri G-3 Aia C/D-4 Aida B-2 Alevi J-2 Alle G-5 Allika H-3 Ao H-2 Apteegi C-3 Aru F/G-1 Asula I/J-2 Asunduse H-5 Auli J-1/2 Auna G-1 Auru J-3 Bensiini G-5 Bremeni kik C-3 Dunkri D-2 Eha H-2 Endla H-1/2 Erika F-1 Estonia pst E-3/4 Faehlmanni H-4 Falgi D-1 Filmi G-5 Filtri I-4 Gildi H-4 Gonsiori H-3/5 Gmnaasiumi C-2 Haigru I-1 Hane J-1 Haraka J-2 Hariduse H-3 Hrjapea G-1 Harju D/E-2 Hauka I-2 Heina F-1/G-2 Hermanni H-4 Herne I-3 Hbeda H-4 Hobusepea C-2 Imanta H-4 Inseneri C-4 Invaliidi H/I-3 Jahu F-3 Jakobi H-4 Jakobsoni H-4 Jrvevana I-4/J-3 Joa G-6 Je G-4 Juhkentali H-3/I-4 Kaarli pst E-1/2 Kbliku I-1 Kadri G-6 Kadriorg G-5 Kaera F-1 Kai G-3 Kajaka J-1 Kalasadama F-3 Kalevi F-2 Kalju F-2 Kannikese H-1 Knnu I/J-1 Ko J-1/2 Karjavrava D-3 Karu G-4 Kasvu H-1 Katariina kik C-3 Kauba I-2/J-3 Kauka H-3 Kauna I-3 Kaupmehe H-3 Kauri I-1 Keemia H-1 Keldrime H-4 Kentmanni H-3 K-Kalamaja B-1 Kesk-Ameerika I-2 Kesk-Sjame J-6 Kevade H-2 Kibuvitsa H-1 Killustiku H-5 Kinga C-2 Kiriku C/D-1 Kiriku pik C-1 Kiriku plats D-1 Kivimurru I-5 Kodu I-3 Kohtu D-2 Koidu H/I-2 Koidula G-4/H-5 Kie F-2 Kolde G-1 Kleri G-4/5 Kollane H-4 Komandandi E-1 Komeedi H-2 Kooli B-2 Kopli B-1 Koskla H/I-1 Kotka I/J-2 Kotkapoja I-2 Kotzebue A-1/2 Kreutzwaldi H-4 Kristiina I-2 Kuhlbarsi H-4 Kullassepa D-2 Kullerkupu H-1 Kulli J-1 Kunderi H-4 Kungla F-2 Kuninga D-2 Kure J-1 Kuristiku G-6 Laagna G/H-6 Laboratooriumi B-2 Lagle I-2 Lahe G-5 Lai B-3/C-2 Lasname G/H-6 Lastekodu H/I-4 Laulupeo H-4 Lauteri H-3 Lehe I/J-1 Lembitu H-3 Lennujaama I-5 Lennuki H-3 Liblika I-1 Liivalaia H-3/4 Liivame H-4 Lille H-1 Linda G-2 Lindamgi H-2 Linnu tee J-1 Lootsi G-4 Lkke H-2 Lokese J-2 Lubja H-4 Luha I-2 Luige I-1 Luise H-2 Luste F-1 Lhike jalg D-2 Madara H-1/2 Mekalda G/H-5 Magasini H/I-3 Magdaleena J-2 Maisi G-1 Majaka H/I-5 Malmi G-2 Maneezhi G-3 Mardi H-4 Mehaanika H/I-1 Mere A/D-4 Metalli H-1 Mineraali H-1 Mooni H/I-1 Mulla G/H-1 Mndi C-2 Munga C-3 Muti J-1 Mrivahe C-3/D-2 Nafta G-4 Narva G-3/6 Nepi I-2 Nevski D-2 Niguliste D-2 Niine A-1/2 Nisu F/G-1 Nmme I-2 Nunne C-1/2 Odra H-4 Olevimgi B/C-3 Oleviste B-3 Orase G-1 Oru G-6 Otsa E-3 Paavli F-1 Pae H-6 Paekaare H-6 Paekivi I-5 Pagari B-3 Paide J-2/3 Paldiski H-2 Prna H-4 Prnu I-3/J-2 Peterburi I-5/6 Petrooleumi G-4/5 Piiskopi D-1 Pikk B-3/C-2 Pikk jalg D-2 Pirita F-6/G-5 Planeedi I-2 Phja A-4/B-2 Poska G-5 Preesi G-1 Pronksi G/H-4 Punane H-6 Phavaimu C-3 Raekoja D-2 Raekoja plats D-2 Rahukohtu C-1 Ranname B-1/4 Rapla J-2 Rataskaevu C-2 Raua G/H-4 Rvala H-3 Ravi H-3 Reinvaldi H-4 Roheline aas H-5 Rohu G-2 Roopa H-2 Roosikrantsi H-3 Roseni B-4 Rotermanni C-4 Rukki F-1 Rutu C-1 Rtli D/E-2 Sadama G-3 Saiakang C-2 Sakala E-3 Saku J-2 Salme F-2 Saturni I-2 Saue G-2 Sauna D-3 Sle G/H-1 Spruse pst I/J-1 Spordi I/J-2 Staadioni H-4 Sda H-3 Sgise G-2 Suitsu J-3 Sulevimgi B-3 Suur Kloostri C-2 Suur Rannavrav A-3 Suur-Ameerika H-2 Suur-Karja D-3 Suur-Laagri F-2 Suurgildi C-2 Suurtki B-2 Tartu H-4/J-6 Tatari H/I-3 Teatri square E-4 Tedre I-1/J-2 Tehnika G/I-2 Telliskivi G-2/H-1 Terase G/H-4 Tihase I-1 Tina G-4 Tobiase H-4 Tolli B-3 Tondi J-2 Tnismgi H-2 Toom-Kooli D-1 Toom-Rtli C-2 Toompea E-1 Toompuiestee C-1 Toonela I-4 Tstuse A-1 Tormi G-5 Town Hall D-2 Tuha H-5 Tulbi H-1 Tulika H-1/I-2 Turba G-6 Tri J-2/3 Tuukri G-4 Tuuleme I-5 Tve J-1 Tuvi H-2 Trnpu H-4 lemiste tee I-5 Uue maailma I-2 Uus B/D-3 Uus turg D-3 Uus-Kalamaja F-2 Uus-Sadama G-4 Vabaduse v. E-2 Vabriku G-2 Vike-Ameerika I-2 Vike-Karja D-3 Vike-Kloostri C-2 Vike-Laagri F-2 Vike-Sjame J-6 Vaimu B/C-3 Valli D-3 Vana-Kalamaja B-1 Vana turg D-3 Vana-Luna I-3 Vana-Viru D-4 Vana-Posti D-2 Vanaturu kael D-2 Vase G-4 Veerenni I/J-3 Veetorni H-2 Vene C-3 Vesivrava G-4 Videviku I-2 Vilmsi G-4 Vineeri I-3 Virmalise I-2 Viru D-3/4 Vidujooksu G-6 Vistluse I-4 Voorimehe C-2 Weidemanni G-4 Weizenbergi G-5 Wismari E-1

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Tallinn In Your Pocket

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index
16 Euro Hostel 30 A. H. Tammsaare Museum 71 Admiral 33 African Kitchen 32 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral 64 al Sole 41 Amarillo 48 Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Caf 52 Architectural Elements 72 Argentiina 32 Artemis Souvlaki 37 Asian Aroma 32 Asian Wok & Grill 32 Audioguide Old Town Tour 66 Baieri Kelder 36 Balalaika 47 Balthasar 40 Baltic Hotel Imperial 26 Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru 26 Bank of Estonia Museum 68 Barons 24 Basiilik 41 Bazar 46 Bed & Breakfast Rex 30 Beer House 36 Bern 26 Bocca 41 Bogapott 53 Bonaparte 36, 53 Bonaparte Bistroo 53 Bordoo 49 Bossanova 38 Braavo 29 Buongiorno 41 C'est La Vie 36, 53 Caf More 53 Caf Palace 38 Caf Pushkin 47 Caf VS 38 Cantina Carramba 48 Chakra 38 Chedi 32 Chicago 1933 38 China Inn 34 Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord 67 City Bike Tours 66 City Hotel 30 City Hotel Portus 29 City Hotel Tallinn 30 Clarion Hotel Euroopa 26 Clayhills Gastropub 44 Clazz 38 Controvento 41 Cubanita 46 Danebrog Tower Caf & Art Gallery 72 Doll Museum 70 Dome Church 64 Dominic 39 Dominican Monastery 65 Dominican Monastery Claustrum 65 Eduard Vilde Museum 71 Egoist 49 Elevant 38 El Pasha 46 Energia Kohvik 53 Entrecte Restaurant 39 Epping Tower 72 Erel Apartments & Residences 31 Estonian Children's Lit. Centre70 Estonian History MuseumMaarjame Palace 68 Estonian History Museum - The Great Guild Hall 68 Estonian Maritime Museum 68 Estonian Museum of Natural History 68 Estonian Open Air Museum 70 Estonian Puppet Theatre 70 Estonian War Museum 68 Euphoria 30 Euroaudioguide 66 Everest Kathmandu 33 Fat Margaret Tower 72 Fellini 41 Fish & Wine 49 Flying Kiwi Backpackers 30 Ghost Walk 66 GIDIC Hostel Tallinn 30 Gloria 49 GoHotel Shnelli 29 Golden Dragon 34 Grillhaus Daube 44 Health Museum 71 Hellemann Tower Gallery 72 Holy Spirit Church 65 Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour 66 Hopner 44 Hotel Economy 30 House on Tartu mnt. 72 Ipanema Rodizio 33 Ites Apartments 31 Josephine 53 Kadriorg Palace 73 Kadriorg Park Museum & Library 73 Kaerajaan 35 Kaevukohvik 52 Kalev Marzipan Room 68 Kalev Spa Hotel 25 Kalle Kusta 39 Kapten Tenke 35 Karja Caf 52 Karl Friedrich 39 Krme Klik 41 Kathmandu Hill 34 Kehrwieder Chocolaterie 53 KGB Headquarters 72 KGB Museum 72 Kiek in de Kk 64, 68 Klafira 47 Kohvik Julius 52 Kohvik Kompott 46 Kohvik Moon 46 Kohvituba 52 Kolme Krooni Maja apartments 31 Korsaar 48 Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn 29 Krua 48 Kuldse Notsu Krts 35 Kullassepa Residence 31 Kuninga Restoran 49 L'Ermitage 26 La Boheme 52 La Bottega 41 Le Chteau 48 Lido 33 Liisu Juures 35 Lillekla 29 Limoncello 41 Linnahall 72 Mack Bar-B-Que 32 Mademoiselle 52 Maharaja 38 Maiasmokk 52 Maikrahv 44 Mamo 46 Marine Mine Museum 71 Matilda 53 Mekk 35 Merchant's House 24 Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel 25 Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel 27 Meriton Old Town Hotel 27 Metropol 27 Miia-Milla-Manda 70 Munga Kelder 44 Museum 49 Museum of Estonian Photography 69 Must Lammas 34 My City Hotel 24 nAnO 46 Narva Kohvik 53 NEH 39 Nevskij 47 Niguliste Church - Museum 65 Nordic Hotel Forum 27 Novell 49 Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala towers 72 35 Olde Hansa 44 Old Estonia 39 OldHouse Hostel 30 Old Town Alur 31 Olematu Rtel 40 Oliver 44 Ombra 42 Our House 46 Pagaripoisid 52 Park and Swan Pond 73 Park Inn Central Tallinn 28 Park Lounge 49 Patarei Prison 71 Peetri Pizza 42 Peking 34 Peppersack 44, 52 Peter The Great House Museum 73 Pierre Chocolaterie 53 Pikajala 52 Pirita Convent Guesthouse 30 Pirosmani 34 Pizza Americana 42 Pizza Grande 42 Pizzeria al Sole 42 Platz 49 Presidential Palace 73 Pulcinella 42 Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia 24 Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn 24 Reval Caf Mrivahe 14 53 Reval Caf Restaurant 40 Reval Caf Vene 1 52 Revalia Grill House 44 Reval Park Hotel & Casino 28 Ribe 49 Romeo Family Apartments 31 Russalka monument 73 Saiakang 52 Saigon 38 Sakura 43 Savoy Boutique 24 Scandic Palace 28 Schlssle 24 Schnitzel Haus 36 Senso 40 Sfr 40 Silk 43 Silk Sushi Bar 43 Sisalik 46 Sokos Hotel Viru 28 Song Festival Grounds (Lauluvljak) 73 oti Klubi 36 Spice 38 Spirit Caf 53 St. Barbara 28 St. Bridget's Convent Ruins 73 St. John's Church 67 St. John the Baptist's Almshouse 68 St. Michael's Swedish Lutheran Church 67 St. Michael Juusturestoran 37 St.Nicholas' Orthodox Church67 St. Olaf's Church 65 St. Olaf's Church Tower 71 St. Peter and Paul Roman Catholic Church 67 St. Petersbourg 25 St Charles' Church 67 Steakhouse Liivi 44 Stenhus 49 Sushi Cat 43 Sushihouse 43 Swisstel 25 Syrtaki Taverna 37 Taanilinna Hotell 28 Taco Express 48 Tallink City Hotel 28 Tallinn Backpackers 31 Tallinn Botanical Garden 70 Tallinn City Museum 68 Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour 66 Tallinn Zoo 70 Tapas Bar & Restaurant 48 Tchaikovsky 47 Telegraaf 26 Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina 32 Theatre & Music Museum 69 The Marzipan Museum 69 The Monk's Bunk 31 The Museum of Occupation and of the Fight for Freedom 68 The Tallinn Free Tour 67 The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn 28 Three Sisters Hotel 26 Tommi Grill Metro 44 Toomas The Train 70 Toompea Castle 64 Town Fortifications 71 Town Hall 65 Town Hall Pharmacy 65 Town Hall Tower 71 Travel 40 Troika 47 Turg 48 lemiste 28 Vanaema Juures 35 Vana Tom 31 Vana Toomas 40 Vapiano 42 Velotakso 67 Villa Thai 48 Viru Backpackers 31 Viru Gates 72 Viru Inn 26 Von Krahli Aed 40 Wabadus 53 Zebra Caf 43, 49

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