Radar

On Our
News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.
Lisbons Taberna Moderna, a local favorite for both its ambience and its tapas menu.

m y tow n

lisbON by desigN
euro crisis be damned: Portugals capital city is loaded with style, sophistication, and old-world pleasures. For the ultimate insider tour, we turned to Alexandra Champalimaud, a Lisbon native and the interior designer who recently revamped L.A.s Hotel bel-Air and is working on Londons Dorchester. Her first stop? Taberna Moderna (18A Rua dos Bacalhoeiros; tabernamoderna.com; $$), a Portuguese and Galician tapas restaurant in the historic Alfama district. Turn the page for more of Champalimauds expert picks.

Photographed by Theo Morrison

t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e

n o v e m b e r 2 01 2

31

Radar
Champalimauds lisbon
Stay When visitors cant fit

in my apartment I have them stay at Chiado16 (16-17 Largo da Academia Nacional de Belas Artes; chiado16.com; $), a guesthouse perched on a hill in the Chiado district.
Eat The wonderfully unfussy Kaffeehaus

(3 Rua Anchieta; kaffeehauslisboa.com; $$) is the place for brunch. Order a galo (a foamy espresso). + I appease my sweet tooth at Pastis de Belm (84-92 Rua de Belm; pasteisde belem.pt), a cozy caf known for its traditional custard tarts. + A new restaurant in the Museum of Pharmacy, Pharmacia (1 Rua Marechal Saldanha; 351/213-462-146; $$) has inventive dishes and drinks. Get the Ibuprofen cocktail, with cachaa and lemon juice.
Shop I buy my pillowcases at linen shop Paris em Lisboa (77 Rua Garrett; parisemlisboa.pt); they also make beautiful hand-embroidered sheets. + Furniture carving is now a rare art. At Ricardo do Esprito Santo Silva Foundation Workshop

Champalimaud at Santo Silva

Paris em Lisboa Overlooking Lisbon

Palcio Fronteira

(2 Largo das Portas do Sol; fress.pt), learn to hand-tool a reproduction of an 18thcentury pieceor buy one. (1 Largo de So Domingos de Benfica; fronteira-alorna.pt) belongs to friends of mine and was the setting for my 50th birthday (a masquerade ball!). I adore the Della Robia sculptures and Versaillesesque garden. As told to Kathryn OShea-Evans 32
n o v e m b e r 2 01 2

Pastis de Belem

Do Palcio Fronteira

Pharmacia

t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e

b o T T o m L e F T: S I v A n A S K AY o