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By Andrew Soh
Keeping discus is not as difficult as most aquarists make it out to be. Though it is an established fact that discus is more sensitive to its environment and easily affected by the waters parameter and quality as compared to other ornamental fishes, it is nevertheless simple to care for if issues pertaining to best discus practices are satisfied. In fact, whether an amateur pursues discus hobby to a higher level or gives it up for other less demanding aquarium fish, the first step into the discus hobby is the most crucial and decisive stage. Let us assume that he is psychologically convinced by close friends that keeping discus is a challenging hobby. Hence, making purchase or acquiring his first discus should be his first move into the discus hobby...his first innocent step amid venerability and ignorance. But how complicated could that first step be? Well, within this phase of uncertainty, the most detrimental is to acquire sub-standard discus. Sub-standard here refers not to the phenotype but the health of the discus and amateurs are ignorant, not knowing how sick discus look like and what to avoid? He is at the mercy of Chance. Did he bring back a discus that is pathogen-free? If not, is he able to handle and treat his discus? If the new arrival dies within days or that the discus keeps falling sick, would he not be discouraged and deterred from future investment in the discus hobby? Therefore, acquiring quality discus, good basic knowledge and having solutions to discus adversities are important criteria. Viewing the issue from a different prospective, it literally means that the supplier of that discus should provide as healthy discus as possible through good husbandry management, the hobby itself should be knowledge-based and lastly, hobbyists should understand and able to apply Best Discus Practices.
Minerals: These are very important to fishes being kept in confinement. Without the essential trace elements and minerals in water, not only will growth be affected but all other physiological and psychological functions like spermatogenesis, oogenesis-ovulation, fertilisation efficiency, foetus development, sexual drive and responses may be affected. [Deformity and retardation may also set in as have been found in researches on Tadpoles (frog larvae) cultured in distilled water (pure rain-water) and totally deionised water] Temperature: Holding everything else constant, a perfectly healthy discus that is free of pathogen can tolerate and thrive well at temperature as low as 22c but the range most preferred is between 25c and 28c. Temperature between 31c and 33c is favoured by certain micro-organisms for propagation hence undesirable proliferation and parasite-load. Therefore, in some cases, by the act of raising temperature, we encourage organisms that are hidden beneath the scale (safe haven) to detach from host and come into the open to propagate hence a window period where prophylactic treatment is deemed most effective. Ammonia: Everyone knows that ammonia can be lethal. But besides being lethal, ammonia can retard growth and supports micro-organisms. That is why a culture-system that is without biological filtration is a setback hence more frequent water-changes daily are needed to ensure better growth. This is also why besides the 100% daily water-change, some breeders swear by partial water-change and siphoning of leftovers and biowaste an hour after each meal.
Hydroponic
But even a re-circulating system with an efficient biological filtration may not necessarily be the ultimate design or an answer to all issues. Though functioning bio-filter means zero ammonia, the by-product, nitrate, which is less lethal, is known to retard growth too. Above is a diagram of a closed-filtration system. Having daily water replacement of 10 percent will help to improve the water quality. It is also logical to assume that higher the daily water-replacement, the better. But then again, though large water replacement is highly recommended, the concentration of nitrate will continue to surge unless more than 50% of the culture water is replaced daily. To bring nitrate down or to have it totally removed, there are three methods. One method is to culture special anaerobes under a near oxygen-starved environment to consume and remove the nitrate as the nitratedwater passes through them. The second yet convenient and effective method is to incorporate hydroponic into the system. The plant I have used was Pandan plant because of its nitrate-absorption efficiency. The third is to incorporate planted tanks within the system. But for proper plant-growth, additional requirements need to be implemented. Water-fish ratio: Holding everything else constant, the more discus stocked within a given water-volume, the slower will be the growth-rate and limited growth-potential.
Gyrodactylus
Dactylogyrus
Ichthyophthirius multifiliis
Capillaria spp.
Oxyurida spp.
Therefore, if you strongly believe freshwater feed is your choice of feed, the least you can do is to disinfect them with chemicals and freeze them before feeding. Freezing can, at least, eliminate micro-organisms that are produced by binary-fusion but unfortunately quite impossible to destroy those parasites that are living within the organisms or the cysts of egg-layers. A better option is to buy commercially-prepared frozen bloodworms with claim of having gone through treatments and guarantee 100% sterilisation by the producer. The sketches in the previous page depict live-bearing and egg-laying micro-organisms. Non-aquatic feed: The above organisms are difficult to eliminate totally. So far, the chemicals I can acquired were able to eliminate free-swimming organisms including bacteria but yet unable to find a way to destroy pathogens hidden within the tissue of dead feed or chemicals that can penetrate inside the cysts of micro-organisms, destroy and prevent them from reviving while retaining the freshness of the feed. So for fear of introducing pathogenic micro-organisms into discus culture, I advise the use of land-animal feed like beef-heart or pork-heart. Though these are considered unnatural food for our aquatic pets, they are nevertheless a major source of protein for our carnivorous discus. Never try to pamper your discus by giving treats of live aquatic animals, not even once. You may regret it in long-term. Besides land-animal meat, some processed dry feed are good for discus too. But whether they can give the same feed-efficiency ratio as wet feed, you have to experiment with them and draw your own conclusion. Important ingredients: Preparing your own discus food is nothing daunting. But if the main material is land-animal meat, attention has to be paid to the additives in your recipe. Basically, not only are essential proteins and vegetable necessary, addition of multivitamins is a must to work the proteins and ensuring proper bodily-functions. Feed regime: The wider the span the better. For example, if one wants to feed his fish twice daily, a feeding regime of once at 7am and the second feeding at 10pm is preferred over a regime of 12noon and 6pm. High feed-frequency is also preferred. Hence, small quantity per feed (amount that can be finished in 5 minutes) and given 4 to 5 times in the widest span and longest interval possible is an acceptable feed regime.
threats that can wait, yet many people waste their time and money on that. What they are, are explained below. Anti-ectoparasites treatment: Due to handling and transport stress, be it from a local farm to another or import from another country, the possibility of injuries cannot be ignored or taken lightly. Unless the senders and recipients husbandry management is commendable, open wound inflicted will be venerable to secondary bacterial infection. Therefore, the immediate concern for most arrivals should be bacterial-related problems and dehydration. All other treatment can wait, kept on hold and be implemented later. a) So, the first prophylactic treatment needed to be administered is an antibiotic(s), one to suppress bacterial activity so as to allow wound, if any, a chance to heal. b) Long bath of 8 to 12 days is recommended. c) Salt is to be added @ a dose of 100gm per 100 litres of water. This is to replenish the body with salt that may have leached through the wounds, a condition we call Dehydration. Treatment should last more than 5 days, preferably more than a week. d) Immediate chemical treatment to eliminate other ectoparasites is unnecessary as most infections at that point are bacterial. Further to that, lethal chemical treatment given while the arrivals are still harbouring injuries/open wounds may do more harm than good and may stress the discus further hence forcing them into weaken-immunity and even mortality from chemical-poisoning.
Hexamita spp.
Spironucleus spp.
Trichomonas spp.
Bodomonas spp.
Trypanosome spp.
Trypanoplasma spp.
Cryptobia spp.
e) About 8 days into the antibiotic treatment, all tissues should have been repaired and adapted to the new environment. You may now wish to start or incorporate antiectoparasites (besides bacteria) treatment(s). Chemical of choice may be potassium permanganate; formalin; chelated copper sulphate or even dipterex. f) As for other parasites like the flagellates in the previous page or round worms and tapeworms, treatment can be given on a later date as they are not life-threatening as far as quarantine is concerned. But treatment against flagellates or suspected worms is best to be completed before mixing the new arrivals with your existing culture. Identify changes: Having brought forth some of the important pointers on discus hobby as a whole and the basic steps and precaution we need to take while indulging in this wonderful hobby, there is still an important issue we have to look into and that is Sharpening our observational skill. We need to commit more time studying the behaviour of our so-called normal and healthy discus. Only after perfecting this basic observational skill, understanding what behaviour is considered normal, can we spot changes, signs of distress or abnormity. Also, hobbyists must be prepared for the worse scenarios.
a) This infection starts around two weeks old and the initial symptom is blurring of the fins. b) Then discus fry start to clamp-up their fins and body darkens. c) Whether the fry are dark or lethargic, they do rush for food but stop short of ingesting it. d) As days pass, those that are weak die off. e) Those that have built resistance suddenly recover and surge in growth.
f)
g) This problem is bacterial-related and can be solved by antibiotics. h) Without human intervention, mortality can reach 70 to 80% or more. i) j) Condition that triggers this may be ammonia, insufficient water-changes. or sick brooders. The main cause is Bacterial infection and not protozoa or monogenean worms.
The discus succumbed to the fourth week syndrome but recovered after the treatment. Recuperation does not lead to regain of full coloration and appetite and will always look weaker than the rest of them
a) This literally means that it happens on the fourth week of free-swimming or after. b) There is no blackening or darkening of the fry. c) Fry are swimming and feeding happily but suddenly, one or two fry drop dead. d) They die suddenly without warning and can be on a full or on an empty stomach. e) There is no obvious symptom and is unrelated to constipation, diet nor water quality. f) Every day, a few die and finally as the problem becomes chronic, some stay in corners. g) Those that die, die off with a light bodily colour-tone. h) In my opinion, it is a sign of blood leaching resulting in dilution of bodily colour-tone. i) j) k) l) This mortality can put to a halt with potassium permanganate. 2.2mgs of PP per litre of water for 24 hours x 3 treatments with intervals. Also, 1.5gm salt per litre of water upon first sign (for salt replenishment) for long bath. Follow-up treatment with antibiotics is advised.
c)
The degree of damage depends on how virulence the bacterium is at time of infection.
d) The bacterium is transferred from parent to wrigglers e) It is not due to water (chemicals) or diet (nutrient-deficiency) f) g) i) j) It can be prevented from happening. Treating the parents before spawning to prevent transmission is the best option. The invasion has been observed to happen during wriggler stage. When condition favours, it can be fairly virulence, attacking the whole hatchery.
h) Second option is to treat the wrigglers or eggs with a concoction of fry-friendly antibiotics.
Hope this short discussion will give readers a better understanding and a more cautious and calculated approach to discus handling. Discus is definitely not the most difficult ornamental fish to manage.....