Speed Solving the Rubiks Cube, Layer By Layer.

An introduction: The purpose of this document is basically to offer a basic way to solve the Rubiks cube quickly, while still not needing to memorize 78+ algorithms. With a little practice, Ive seen this method actually be used to solve a cube in less than 40 seconds. (Ive actually done it myself as well, using this very method) There are some basic requirements however: Notation. Ill have a basic notation guide here to help with some common things youll see. A cube. Open mind, and a willingness to actually try and put in place what I suggest. I am putting this forward in a way that would very easily lead to new methods that are much faster. The reason I say this however is because every pattern you learn here, will actually be used if you were to get more serious about speedcubing later on. Everything you are learning from this document will actually be able to be used in the future. Im simply showing you a stripped down version of what some of the top speedcubers in the world use! That being said, if youre only interested in solving that little cube sitting there on your desk, this guide will also work very well for that too Now before we begin, there are some things that youll have to know that were going to get out of the way first however.

1 Notation 2 - Understanding 3 Glossary

1 Notation a series of symbols that represent an action or sequence. In this case, the same way music has notes or chess has move notation, cubing needs a way of describing how to do something. When you see this: loud Prime <- That represents Counter-Clockwise. Its said out

When you see U, D, F, B, L, R, <- These represent face turns. Theyre all implied to be clockwise by default. If you see the after it however, its understood to be counter-clockwise.

U = Upper face D = Down or lower face F = Front face B = Back face L = Left face R = Right face

There are other more advanced methods that well talk about later, but Ill mention what they mean now so you have an understanding:
U = Upper face Clockwise U = Upper face Counter Clockwise U2 = Turn the upper face 180 degrees u or Uw = Turn 2 layers of the upper face (In other words, grab both the top face and the layer below it and turn them both as one) u or Uw = Same as above, but counter clockwise u2 or Uw2 = Same as above, but 180 degree turn. Same as uu or uu The same applies to all of the other face twists; just substitute U or u with whatever face youre turning. You might also see things like X or Y or Z, these represent entire cube twists More on this in the next section: Understanding.

2 Understanding What I mean by understanding is that before you can really get into solving cubes comfortably, there are some things that well have to talk about, and wrap your head around. I find one of the mistakes that a lot of people make that look at Rubiks cubes for the first time are usually ones of spatial perception. When you look at a cube, you probably see 3 cubes, 3 rows high and 3 rows deep. This would indicate that there are 27 cubes total right? 3 to the power of 3, or 3, 3^3 or whatever. Anyway, the idea is this: Its not 27 cubes. Not at all! You never see the very center inside cube do you? The reason is because there isnt one! Its a special core designed to have all other pieces float around the center. There are 2 major ways of illustrating this, though the easiest way to really see this is to take apart the cube see it for yourself. That being said, here is a diagram that represents what Im talking about:

The idea here is that the centers dont actually go anywhere. They rotate, but they dont move. Sure, you could move the centers around and keep the outside stationary, but in essence youre only moving the sides around and then simultaneously rotating the cube The centers ARE the faces. This isnt true on any of the smaller or larger cubes that are an even number (like the 4x4x4 or 6x6x6 cubes, because they dont have a dedicated center) So whats the point then? Well, the point is this: There are only 3 types of turns. Theres a U turn. In this case, thats rotating the yellow face clockwise. (Its the same as turning all of the cubes as well as the yellow center in a clockwise rotation, like a record or CD) Well, thats 1 type of rotation. Then you have R, which is turning the green face clockwise, like a bicycle tire or rollerblade. It spins the say way. Thats the 2nd type of rotation. The 3rd and last type is F which is the same as watching a desk fan spin. There are 3 major plains of rotation that were looking at, and as long as you understand that the centers simply rotate, then I think weve made a major breakthrough! Youre already on your way to understanding the cube in a new way. You might be asking now though: But if theres 6 faces, why only 3 types of rotation? Well thats because the other faces are simply mirrored or opposites. The opposite of U is D, F is B and R is L. So when you rotate U, D is the complete opposite side of the cube, however in the opposite direction too! If you rotated the entire cube so that yellow was on bottom and white was on top (or Blue if you have an Asian based color scheme) then what used to be D is now U, and vice-versa. The next big thing is that because we have to consider, now that we know that its not actually 27 cubes, but more like 54 faces with a color on the face, is that there are types of cubes. The Rubiks cube has 3 types of cubies that exist. The first time is a Center. Thats listed above there, and theyre the ones that determine the color of the face. Theyre like a 1 dimensional piece that represents the color for just that face. The next type is an Edge. An Edge has 2 colors on it. If you take the cube apart, youll actually see that of the two main plastic types, this one is the one that only has 2 colors on it. Heres what Im talking about:

The darker colored cubies are the edges that Im referring to. Theyre not a corner, and only have 2 colors on them. These are the only ones ever to touch a center cubie. There are 12 of them, and no 2 are alike, in that no two of them ever share the same 2 colors. If you ever see a messed up Rubiks cube that has an edge with the same color or two with the exact same colors on them, you know someone has been causing a mess with the stickers of that cube. (And is impossible to solve without re-stickering it) The last type is a corner. Theyre well, theyre the corners. There are 8 of them, and each has 3 colors attached. Like this:

Its interesting now though, because weve gone from 54 faces, to 27 cubies down to 8 corners and 12 edges! Suddenly, were getting somewhere with the understanding part of solving the cube. 3 Glossary Normally this would go at the end of a document, but I feel it important to discuss these terms at the beginning. Itll make it easier for me to type and for you to read once you know what Im referring to. Please feel free to visit http://www.cubefreak.net/glossary.html for a much more extensive listing; Im only going to include the basics here.

Algorithm An algorithm is a sequence of movements which performs the same function every time it's done, and which returns the cube to the starting point when repeated a certain number of times. For example: Start with a solved cube perform R U R' U R U2 R' U2. Done twice more returns the cube to the solved state. Start with a solved cube perform R U R' U R U2 R' U2 (same as the first but without the U2 at the end). Done 5 more times returns to the solved state BLD = Blindfold Cubing Center Piece The piece of the Rubik's Cube located in the middle of each face. In Rubik's Deluxe and new Oddzon cubes, the center pieces are arched on the inside. Odd-number sized cubes have unchanging centers. CFOP (abbrev.)Cross->F2L->OLL->PLL = Fridrich Method COLL

Set of algorithms to orient the permute the last layer corners in one step without disturbing the edge orientation. Corner Piece The pieces of the cube that are the corners of the whole cube. 8 corner pieces in a Rubik's Cube. A corner piece has three orientation. Cross The orientation and permutation of edges of the first layer. First step in most LBL methods, including Fridrich Method. Can be solved in at most 8 moves, and almost always in 7 moves or less. Most speedcubers prefer to put the cross on bottom or on left during F2L. DNF Did Not Finish. Includes pops and timer defects. Double Layer Turn A kind of turn in which 2 layers are turned as one in one direction. indicated by lower-case letter of the face or by adding a "w" after the face name (used mainly by JSCC). Edge Piece The piece of Rubik's Cube that is between two corner pieces. resembles the sides of the Rubik's Cube. edge piece has two orientations. There are 12 edges on a Rubik's Cube. Extended Cross Also called XCross. Completing the first slot of F2L in addition to the normal cross. An approach invented by Chris Hardwick. Can be extended to Double Extended Cross First 2 Layers (F2L) [speedcubing] The part of the cube solve right after the cross in Fridrich Method. consists of 4 slots between each adjacent pair of cross edge piece FSC [speedcubing] (abbrev.) Finger Short Cut LBL (abbrev.)Layer by Layer LL (abbrev.) Last layer M Middle. The slice between R and L. "M" as a notation refers to the turning of the M slice in direction of L. OLL (abbrev.) Orientation of last Layer The flip of a piece on a Rubik's Cube. 3 flips on corner piece (0,1, and 2), and 2 flips on edge piece (0 and 1) Permutation of Last Layer Set of algorithms to permute all last layer pieces in one step without disturbing the orientation. Total of 21 patterns including mirrors and inverses. Last stage in Jessica Fridrich's LBL. Average 14 moves. Also called LLP.

So at this point, Im sure theres a LOT thats been taken in, most it probably not. Itll take some practice and time to actually completely understand what all of this is, however itll all come with time. That being said, lets start on with the actual cube solving stuff!

Stage 1: The Cross

Youve picked up the jumbled mess on your desk, table, drawer or toy box and youve decided that Yes, I will today solve this cube Well, heres where it starts. So we need to break it down: The cross is easy and hard all at the same time. Its easy to solve, but hard to solve in very few moves. Well, we are going for SOME speed, but for the sake of just being able to solve the darn thing, were going to focus on simplicity. There are some amazing guides out there, and Dan Harris has one of my favorites for slightly more advanced cubers. Ill show you a more basic method thatll get the job done, but he takes great time and care in explaining the intricacies of solving the cross. His site can be found here: http://www.cosine-systems.com/cubestation/cross/cross.php In the meantime, heres a simple way of working it. Something that needs to be kept in mind is that for this to be completely seamless into the next methods, I highly suggest you get used to solving the cross on the BOTTOM of the cube. You can solve it on the top like Dan Knights, and then flip the entire cube over, however that cube flip takes time and also prevents you from somewhat seeing the next stage which well talk about a little later. So heres the idea. Its a cross. Its a cross that involves only the edges, and only the edges of a specific color. Most people seem to choose white or blue based on the color scheme of the cube, but the end result tends to be the same: Yellow ends up on top. I think this is partially based on recognition of the last layer which well talk about later as well, however for the time being, it seems to work just fine for most people. Anyway, lets pretend that you have a cube where the top is yellow, the bottom is white. Well focus on that for now. So lets say that youve solved the cross. You have a cross on the bottom, and you see that there are 4 white edges that are touching the white center. GREAT! But is it right? Heres the trick about the cross. You cant just solve it, you have to make the OTHER colors match too.

<- Seeing this is great. But see the dark grey? The trick is to get those to match the color theyre touching as well.

Dan has an explanation on his site that talks about the 3 color rule. It can be a little confusing to get at first, however once you start messing around with the cross, itll begin to make sense. Again in the meantime, heres my take: If you have a messed up cube, your focus will be to get the cross first. The easy way is actually like this:

<- If you can get the 4 white edges up to the top, then youre doing well. The point here is that once you get them here, you can then place them properly simply by matching up the color that isnt white, and putting them below where theyre located. I wont suggest HOW to make the edges up top, and the reason I am saying this isnt to give you a hard time. Its to help force you to understand HOW the edges move around. Once you are able to make the cross up top, eventually youll be able to just plop them directly to the bottom. For now, heres the next step:

<- See here how we have the white edges facing up and the colors all around the upper ring? (Top layer) The idea here is to match up the colors and then drop them directly below where they are. The way you would do it in this example is by performing: U F2. U matches the red edge with the red face (and incidentally the blue face which is opposite green but thats a little more advanced than what Im showing) and then F2 would put the white on the bottom layer. Once you finish that, you can rotate the whole cube clockwise or counter clockwise and start again! Do this 4 times and youll have a cross on the bottom that looks like this:

<- Good

<- Bad In a case where you happen to have a bad cross like this, you can simply move them into the top layer (F2) and move it above where it needs to go, and then drop it down again in the correct spot with F2.

You can start getting into more advanced methods where you just drop the cross into the bottom and skip this top layer thing completely. Its MUCH faster that way, however takes some look-ahead and preplanning. This is an easy method and can be easy to master in a matter of days with a little practice. You can usually solve the cross in under 10 seconds with this method if you plan it out right, though Ive been able to do it in around 5-6 seconds this way.

Stage 2: The First Layer Corners

So youve solved the cross huh? Feels pretty good to have that first step all done? Well if youve survived up to this point, lets move onto the next step! Once youve made the cross, we have to start putting in the edges into the first layer so that its all done and we can move onto the middle layer. Speedcubers refer to this and the next step as F2L or First 2 Layers. Speedcubers combine the next 2 steps into 1 big step (its actually 4 little steps), but again in the interest of making this easy to remember Ill show you this method instead. The way Im going to show you however, will actually make it very logical to jump into the more advanced version of this LBL (layer by layer) method of solving the cube. There are going to be 7 situations youll encounter, 1 of them is easy since its a solved state, and the others are actually only 3 situations, but mirrored. Let me show you what youre looking for though:

<- I say this is Right Handed because thats what direction the upper white cubie is facing.

<- I say this is Left Handed because thats what direction the upper white cubie is facing.

<- I say this is Up because thats what direction the upper white cubie is facing (Even though you cant see it here)

There are some things you need to keep in mind. Even though you can see a white cubie, this doesnt mean its in the right spot. Remember how previously with the cross, I said you need to place the edge ABOVE where it needs to be and then you can perform the algorithm? (incidentally, in this case, it was F2) The exact same applies here as well. The corner will be placed directly above where it needs to be in a solved cube. But how do you know exactly? Well, see the 3rd example right above there? In a solved cube, the front corner below that green/red/white cubie is where that cubie needs to be. We know the colors should be that because of the centers! If you dont know what color goes where, look at the centers. Theyll dictate what goes in between them. If you see a red center, and a green center to the left of it, then you know the piece that goes between them will have green and red on them. That being said, lets take a look at a pretend bad example. Lets say the top color on the corner was Blue/Red/White. We know that this is the wrong piece because the centers that were looking at are Green, Red and White. Even if we fit it in, itll look wrong once placed. It would look like this:

<- See how the Red doesnt touch Red? We put the piece in, but its in the wrong spot. Now we have to take it out, and put it back in the right spot.

Well, those are actually cases 4, 5 and 6! Well talk about those soon as well. But before you can learn how to take the back pieces out, lets learn how to put the good pieces in!

<- See here how the white is pointing to the right on the top layer? That means were going to perform the next algorithm with the Right hand. Because weve got a matching color as well, this means that were going to make the matching color side our F face. In this case, Green will be our front face. Rotate the cube so that Green is in front of you, and the red face is to your right (or whatever colors you have that youre starting with.) Now perform this move: R U R This move does 3 separate things: R turns the red face clockwise, and at the same time it also twists or rotates the corner U matches up the white corner with the white and red edge R undoes the first move we made, and puts the cross back how we found it. Suddenly, we have an inserted bottom layer corner!

<- See how the white is pointing to the left in the top layer? That means were going to perform the mirror of the exact same

algorithm we just learned above. Remember, because we have the Red from the corner and Red from the center matched up, that this is going to be our F face now.

The mirror of the above is like this: L U L This works in exactly the same way that R U R worked on the above example, except now its done with the left hand instead.

<-Now what can we do? We know that white is pointing up, and that isnt going to do us any good. We need to twist this before we can place it properly. In this case, because were going to perform this with the right hand, well put the Green face as F. If we were going to do it with the left hand, Red would be our F face. Heres the algorithm, and then Ill explain what it does for the Right hand: R U2 R U R U R R This twists the corner. U2 This moves the corner out of the way and keeps it twisted for us later R This fixes the cross. Because we used this move to break the cross AND twist the corner, we need to undo it or re-fix the cross again. U This puts the new corner above where it needs to go. Now it should look like our first example with the white pointing to the Right. R U R This is that insertion algorithm that we learned from before. Since we know this new R U R alg, lets put it in brackets. By doing that, were implying that its a FSC or Finger Short Cut. Something that were going to get used to doing over and over, and because of that when you see (R U R) you dont need to follow the move letter by letter because you know the whole movement. Its kind of like reading a word. You dont look at each letter when you read, you look at the word as a whole. This is the same idea with the brackets youll get used to this

because there are some major FSCs that youll use a LOT in cubing, and this is one of them. So now that we know that we have some FSCs we can use, heres how we might write our new algorithm: (R U2 R)U (R U R) Yes, R U2 R is actually its own finger shortcut as well, and it can be performed in one nice motion. That comes into finger tricks which I wont really talk about here too much. Thats something that comes later For the sake of having it here, this is the algorithm youd use for doing the same as above but left handed. Remember that wed put the Red face as our front face if we intend on doing this algorithm with our left hand. (L U2 L)U (L U L)

Now what about those other 3 things that might happen? Well, theyre actually the EXACT same as what we saw above, but theyre in the wrong corner! Remember how we talked about putting the Red/Blue/White corner in the wrong spot? Well the solution to that is to put a fake corner it to get that one into the top layer. Once that misplaced corner is in the top layer, you can put it above where it needs to go, and then itll be one of the above examples Ive mentioned there. Suddenly, youve just learned 3 algorithms very quickly! Wow so if you do this 4 times in a row, we should actually have a completed first layer with properly oriented corners! Looks like this:

So lets summarize quickly: Put the proper corner above where it needs to go. We can find out which colors we need by looking at the centers. White points to the hand well use. (Unless it points up, then we need to do that longer algorithm) The matching color on the corner and on the face shows us which face needs to be the front face. Do (R U R) or (L U L) to put the corner into its spot

If white points up, remember we can do (R U2 R) U (R U R) as a way of twisting and then inserting the corner into its spot. If the corner is already in somewhere but its the wrong spot, we can do (R U R) to get it out quickly, and then place it like normal. When we do this with all 4 corners, we should have the whole first layer completed properly!

If you feel like youve got that pretty comfortable now, we can move onto inserting the edges to complete the whole F2L (First 2 layers)

Stage 3: Finishing the F2L

Feeling pretty good? I hope you are because the next 3 situations that can happen are all common. Fortunately you actually only have 1 new algorithm to learn here. Lets take a look at the next 3 cases youll see:

<- Notice the L we made with the Red and Green edge piece in the top layer? This means were going to perform an algorithm to insert the edge without messing up anything else, and it involves moving the Green/Red piece to the LEFT in the top layer.

<- This will be the backwards L shape, and this will be exactly the same as above, just moving the piece to the RIGHT.

<- This is where we basically do the above algorithm twice. Once to get it out, and once again to get it back in properly. Well look at that a little later.

So the question now is: What do I do to fix it? Lets take a look together at the first one.

<- Basically, theres an algorithm you can perform that will fix this. This alg is performed while looking at the Red face: U (R U R) U (F U F) If youre interested in actually going to the next step and doing the more advanced F2L method (which we dont talk about here) youll need to understand whats going on when we do this algorithm. U is a preparation move. It moves the target square out of the way, and gets it into place for: (R U R) This gets our corner out, and actually puts it into a position where we can DO something with it. U is undoing our first preparation move. If we do something, we eventually need to undo it. (F U F) is a way of undoing the first R U R we did, only with 1 key element in mind: pick up the edge that we prepared along the way.

Heres a key element however: Look at the cube after we do U ( R U R) U, but before we do (F U F)

Notice how the top color on the corner were inserting is the OPPOSITE color of the edge were inserting? If the two colors match, (in the diagram on the top layer, if you see two reds or two greens) were doing it wrong. The colors should be opposite. The reason for this is when we perform the next move we do: (F U F) What that move does is it makes the green and red edge match. The U makes the red and white touch, and the F puts it back where we found it in the first place. Do it slowly though, and watch what happens. When you get into doing intuitive F2L with speedcubing, this is one of the two fundemental preparation setups youll see, which is why Im showing this to you now. Should you fully understand it right now? No, thats not necessary. However, if you want to start learning intuitive F2L, itll help to somewhat understand what its doing.

So then, what about the other cases?

<- This is the EXACT same as the first one, just do it opposite! Before we were looking at the red face. Now well look at the green face. U (L U L) U (F U F) Youll notice that the same rules apply. The U moves the Red/Green edge out of the way, (L U L) prepares the move. U puts the edge back above where it needs to go. (F U F) then inserts the corner the exact same way we always have. Something youll notice though is this: Why are we doing (F U F) why cant we just turn the cube and do (R U R) instead? Well, you actually can. As long as you remember the first part of the algorithm: U (L U L) U, this is the preparation. Once you do that, you can solve the corner like you would do normally! Well, then the question comes up: What about the last case where its in place, but in place incorrectly?

<- In the right spot, but put in the wrong way. Well, there are 2 things you could do. You could panic and throw the cube, but I certainly dont recommend it! The other alternative is to substitute one of the above moves and simply replace the edge with a different, wrong edge. Now that will put the edge youre looking for in the top layer, and then you can apply the algorithm again with it being in one of the above cases which will place it correctly. In the meantime though, let me give you a Blind algorigthm that you can do if you see this that will take care of it in 1 big algorithm. (You dont have to learn this one, but itll make it a little faster if you see this pattern in the future) The algorithm for this is: (R U R) U2 (R U2 R) U (F U F) **Just as a side note, you SHOULD recognize the pattern in the top layer after the (R U2 R), because its a shortcut to getting the opposite colors on top we were looking for. The U puts it into place** Once you do this for all 4 edges, we should be looking at a cube that has the whole bottom 2 layers completed!

This is a reason for celebration because this is probably the hardest part of the whole cube. It honestly gets easier from here because theres no more need for understanding. Its just raw performance processing now. *In other words, you simply just do algorithms to make things happen* This brings us to:

Stage 4: Orienting the Last Layer (2 look)

The premise here that were focusing on for this step is to get yellow one the top. By orienting the last layer, were making sure all of the

cubes in the top layer are pointing upwards. This means we can narrow down exactly how else to manipulate them. The orientation step will have 2 parts. First part is to make a cross on the top. Once we have a cross on the top, then well finish solving the rest of the top. In total, you will have to learn to recognize and memorize 9 algorithms. All of them are different, however these ALL can be used in the full Fredrich version of speedsolving. The ones that Im going to present to you I find very quick, and seem to be the more widely used algorithms. So part 1: Cross on top. There are going to be 4 situations youll see on the top of the cube after the whole F2L are completed:

This is empty is complete

This is Right Angle

This is Line

This

Empty is easy, because you can do the right angle alg, and then the line alg. (A + B or B + A, but both together will make the cross) Right angle is like this: (F U R)(U R F) Line is like this: F (R U R U) F The complete cross is already complete. Move to the next part:

Part 2: Solving the top corners. There are 7 situations youll see, and Im going to put them from easy to hard. Something to keep in mind is this: the F face isnt yellow. That should be the TOP face (U) when performing these algs unless otherwise noted as part of the algorithm.

= Known as Car Wheels: F (R U R U) (R U R U) (R U R U) F

= Known as the Frog: x (turn the cube so that yellow is now F) and do: (R U)(R D) (R U R) D

= Known as Fisheyes. Note the double layer turns: (r U R U r) y (rotate whole cube clockwise. Like U but for the whole cube) r U r. (The whole alg is: (r U R U r)y(r Ur))

= Known as the Sune: (R U R U)(R U2 R)

= Known as Anti-Sune, same as above but other hand: (L U L U)(L U2 L)

= Known as Wheelchair: (R U2) (R2 U) (R2 U) (R2 U2 R)

= Known as Headlights: (R2 D)(R U2 R)D(R U2 R)

At this point, your cube SHOULD look like this:

YAY!!! Youre 2 steps away from solving the entire thing! These next 2 steps dont need to be done in any specific order. You can do Edges and then Corners, or Corners and then Edges. Sometimes,

the corners are already done for you so you just need to do edges. Sometimes its the other way around where the edges are done, and you just have to fix corners. This part is pretty easy because theres not many more algorithms left to learn. If youre this far, its not much further before youre solving the cube in under 1 minute! Which brings us to:

Stage 5: Permuting the Last Layer (2 look)

This is actually pretty easy, because there are 7 algs you need to learn here. There are 3 situations that happen for the corners, and 4 situations that happen for the edges. The same idea applies as OLL When youre solving these, the yellow face should be the U face. Unless the alg says to rotate the cube, yellow should still be on top.

Corners:

Lets break this up into the two groups though. Well start with the

Start with the top facing away from you. (Same as doing x) (R U R) D2 (R U R) D2 R2

Same as above, but in the opposite order: x R2 D2 (R U R) D2 (R U R)

This one starts out like the Frog up until half way, but ends up totally different: x (R U)(R D) (R U R) u2 (R U R) D (R U R). (Remember that the u2 in the middle is the top 2 layers) These are the corners. You dont have to do them first, though for myself anyway, I find it faster to recognize the position. Now, were going to look at the 4 edge situations that can happen when solving for

Edges:

I call this Ziggy, but its a very fast one to recognize. Itll

look like this if the corners are done: The next series of moves are able to be done VERY quickly, but take a decent cube: (M2 U)(M2 U)(M U2)(M2 U2) (M U2) (M2 is done by pulling the middle layer towards you from the bottom with the ring fingers of both hands. The other way to look at it that has the same affect is like this: (r2 R2). The M in the middle of all of this is done the same way, and its the same as doing: r R.

This is a reverse cross, and looks like this: Its easier and faster than Ziggy, and works like this: (M2 U)(M2 U2) (M2 U) M2

This is the 3 edge permutation and its VERY fast. There are easier algs to remember, but not quite as fast as this: (R U R) (U R U R)(U R U R2)

Same as above, just done with the left hand. (L U L) (U L U L)(U L U L2)

So there you have it. The complete beginners guide that will very easily translate into being able to incorporate the Fredrich method of speedsolving should you choose to do so.

Special thanks goes to Dan Harris for having an awesome site with awesome tutorials, to Bob Burton who seems to have a lot of similar cubing ideas as myself and who has been a big inspiration (and who I stole a few of the pictures from as well lol) and encourage you all to check out their sites: www.cubewhiz.com www.cubestation.co.uk Also for feedback, please feel free to e-mail me at enigma@enigmahack.com or enigmahack@hotmail.com for tips, tricks, suggestions and such.

Thanks for reading!