FB/EK HOLDEN THREE-SPEED CRASHBOX ENTHUSIASTS GUIDE

REVISION 0

DATE April 2012

UPDATE Initial draft for review.

Table of Contents 1 2 Background ........................................................................................................................................................... 4 Identification .......................................................................................................................................................... 7 2.1 Basic identification ........................................................................................................................................7 2.2 Identification numbers ...................................................................................................................................9 2.3 Casting Dates................................................................................................................................................9 2.4 Identification Process .................................................................................................................................. 10 Construction ........................................................................................................................................................ 12 3.1 Housings ..................................................................................................................................................... 12 3.2 Shafts, Bushings and Bearings ................................................................................................................... 15 3.3 Gears .......................................................................................................................................................... 17 3.4 Selector Forks ............................................................................................................................................. 18 3.5 Speedometer............................................................................................................................................... 20 3.6 Lubrication................................................................................................................................................... 21 3.7 Weight ......................................................................................................................................................... 23 Operation ............................................................................................................................................................. 24 4.1 Power Transmission .................................................................................................................................... 24 4.1.1 Neutral ............................................................................................................................................. 24 4.1.2 First Gear ......................................................................................................................................... 25 4.1.3 Second Gear .................................................................................................................................... 26 4.1.4 Third Gear ........................................................................................................................................ 27 4.1.5 Reverse Gear................................................................................................................................... 28 4.2 Selector Forks ............................................................................................................................................. 29 4.3 Synchro-mesh ............................................................................................................................................. 31 4.4 EK Holden Owners Manual Guidance ......................................................................................................... 35 Maintenance ........................................................................................................................................................ 36 5.1 EK Holden Owner Manual Guidance .......................................................................................................... 36 5.2 Alternative Lubricants .................................................................................................................................. 37 Assembly Diagrams ............................................................................................................................................. 38 6.1 FX Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 39 6.2 FJ Holden .................................................................................................................................................... 41 6.3 FE/FC Holden ............................................................................................................................................. 43 6.4 FB Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 45 6.5 EK Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 47 6.6 EJ Holden.................................................................................................................................................... 49 6.7 EH Holden ................................................................................................................................................... 51 6.8 HD Holden................................................................................................................................................... 52 6.9 HR Holden................................................................................................................................................... 54 Disassembly and Overhaul Process .................................................................................................................... 56 7.1 Kit Contents and Pre-disassembly .............................................................................................................. 56 7.1.1 NASCO kit........................................................................................................................................ 57 7.1.2 CBC Bearings kit.............................................................................................................................. 59 7.1.3 Rare Spares kit ................................................................................................................................ 61 7.1.4 Status Engineering........................................................................................................................... 62 7.1.5 Kit Comparison ................................................................................................................................ 63 7.2 Special Tools............................................................................................................................................... 63 7.3 Removing the Gearbox from the Vehicle..................................................................................................... 66 7.4 Disassembly ................................................................................................................................................ 67 7.5 Cleaning and Inspection .............................................................................................................................. 76 7.6 Reassembly and Reinstallation ................................................................................................................... 78 7.7 Replacement Parts ...................................................................................................................................... 89 7.8 Selector Rod Adjustment............................................................................................................................. 90 7.9 Control Rod Adjustment .............................................................................................................................. 92 7.10 Control and Selector Rod Dimensions ........................................................................................................ 93

8 9

10 11

Troubleshooting ................................................................................................................................................... 95 Floor Mounted Shifters ...................................................................................................................................... 102 9.1 Background ............................................................................................................................................... 102 9.2 Adjusting (Tuning) a Floor Shifter .............................................................................................................. 105 9.3 Grey Motor Crashbox H-Pattern Shifters The Wobbly Sticks ................................................................. 107 9.3.1 Speco-Thomas Speedshift ............................................................................................................. 107 9.3.2 Dor ................................................................................................................................................. 114 9.3.3 Cee-Gee Shifter ............................................................................................................................. 115 9.3.4 Unknown Wobbly Sticks ................................................................................................................ 116 9.3.5 Operation ....................................................................................................................................... 118 9.3.6 Building Your Own Wobbly Stick.................................................................................................... 118 9.3.7 Installation ...................................................................................................................................... 124 9.4 Impala Shifter ............................................................................................................................................ 129 9.4.1 Background .................................................................................................................................... 129 9.4.2 Grey Motor (FX-EK Holden) 3-speed crashbox (model 702) ......................................................... 132 9.4.3 Red Motor (EJ-HK Holden) 3-speed crashbox (model 701) ........................................................... 137 9.4.4 HK-HZ+LC-LX Torana Aussie 3-speed all-syncro gearbox H-pattern (model 712)........................ 144 9.4.5 HK-HZ+LC-LX Torana Aussie 3-speed all-syncro gearbox inline-pattern (model 708) .................. 147 9.4.6 Aussie 4-speed (model 713) .......................................................................................................... 150 9.4.7 Ford Toploader 3-speed all synchro gearbox................................................................................. 154 9.4.8 Ford Zephyr Mark III 4-speed......................................................................................................... 155 9.4.9 Ford Zephyr 3-speed (model 601) ................................................................................................. 156 9.4.10 Ford 1952-1957 Customline (model 600) ...................................................................................... 157 9.4.11 Ford Falcon XK-XP (model 602) .................................................................................................... 161 9.4.12 Ford Customline Star (model 603) ............................................................................................... 163 9.4.13 Valiant AP5 AP6 VC (and perhaps VF VG) inline-pattern (model 501) .......................................... 164 9.4.14 Simca Oronde (model 502) ............................................................................................................ 168 9.5 Eddie Thomas H-Pattern Shifters .............................................................................................................. 170 9.5.1 Aussie 3-speed (Model ML113) ..................................................................................................... 171 9.5.2 Borg Warner 3-speed Valiant AP5, AP6 (Model ML109) ............................................................... 175 9.5.3 XR Ford Falcon (Model ML114) ..................................................................................................... 176 9.6 Speco-Thomas Centreshift and Mr Shifter ................................................................................................ 179 9.6.1 CentreShift and Mr Shifter Models ................................................................................................. 179 9.6.2 Shifter Identification ....................................................................................................................... 190 9.6.3 Reverse Light Switches ................................................................................................................. 191 9.6.4 Shifter Spare Parts ......................................................................................................................... 192 9.6.5 Speco Gear Knobs......................................................................................................................... 195 9.6.6 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Aussie 4-speed shifter (Part number 604500) ............................... 196 9.6.7 Fitting Instructions - EH Holden all synchro gearbox, HD-HR Holden all synchro gearbox, HK-HG all synchro gearbox, HQ-HZ Holden, HQ-HZ racing model, Holden Torana LC-UC and Holden 1tonner (Part numbers 601461, 601472, 601473, 601474, 601474R, 601476 and 601487) ........... 197 9.6.8 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Muncie 4-speed (Part numbers 604200 and 604250) ................... 201 9.6.9 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Saginaw 4-speed (Part number 604100) ....................................... 202 9.6.10 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Ford Toploader (Part numbers 604300, 604325 and 604350) ...... 203 9.6.11 Fitting Instructions CentreShift Falcon and Cortina 3-speed (Part numbers 601481 and 601460) ....................................................................................................................................................... 204 9.7 Ralph Horton Shifter .................................................................................................................................. 205 9.8 Hardrowl Shifters ....................................................................................................................................... 208 Holden Part Numbers ........................................................................................................................................ 209 Contacts ............................................................................................................................................................ 215

1 Background This document aims to provide some information regarding three-speed manual gearboxes (crashboxes) suitable for FB and EK Holdens. It contains: historical information, such as which gearboxes and fittings were fitted to different model Holdens, practical information on identification, disassembly and reassembly of early Holden gearboxes, guidance on adjustment, maintenance, replacement parts and overhaul techniques, and information on accessory floor shifters. It contains answers to many of the questions that seem to come up routinely on most of the early Holden forums: What overhaul parts are available for my early Holden crashbox, and where do I get them from? Why is my crashbox jumping out of gear? What oil should I run in my crashbox? Whilst the document does not cover the gearshift linkages and column shifter assembly, the adjustment of the linkages is covered. Holden three-speed manual transmissions were of three main types: a) The grey motor crashbox, used from FX through EK Holdens (the subject of this document see upper image to the right). The grey motor crashbox has a bottom transmission cover (sump) and integral casing/bellhousing. The gearbox had synchromesh on second and third gears only, The red motor crashbox, used from EJ through HK Holdens (see lower image to the right). Like its predecessor, the red motor crashbox still had synchromesh on second and third gears only, with the internal gear and shaft layout and operation very similar to the grey motor crashbox. However, the gear selector process was changed significantly, as was the construction red motor crashboxes have a side transmission cover and separate casing/bellhousings, and The Aussie three-speed, used from HK through WB Holdens as well as LC-LX Toranas. The external construction of the Aussie three-speed gearbox is similar to the red motor crashbox, having a side transmission cover and separate casing/bellhousing. However, the Aussie three-speed was fitted with synchromesh on first, second and third gears (often referred to as an all-synchro box), and the gear selector process was changed again. 4

b)

c)

The gearboxes that are the subject of this document are three speed manual transmissions as fitted to FX-EK Holden grey motors. Some minor changes were made to the design of the gearbox over these vehicle models, and will be pointed out in the text below. Having said this, most of the gearbox parts for these models are readily interchangeable. I have not included the EJ Holden grey motor crashbox, or later red motor crashboxes in this document as whilst the operation of the gearboxes is near identical to the FX-EK Holden crashbox, the design and parts interchangeability is very different. I will however include some assembly drawings and other information on these latter gearboxes in order to help illustrate some of the differences. Whilst this document is primarily related to the FB and EK Holden gearboxes, much of the information is similar or identical to other early Holdens. This document also contains a significant amount of information related to floor shifters. My original intention was to cover only those floor shifters which fit the grey motor crashbox. However, as always, the more I dug into aftermarket floor shifters the more interesting things got... and I got a little carried away. Section 9 now contains some interesting historical information, and has information relating to floor shifters o f the three-on-the tree era (FX-WB Holdens) rather than just being limited to grey motors. Please bear in mind that the early Holden gearboxes are more than half a century old, and that limited documentation is known to exist other than references in parts and workshop manuals (despite much hunting by enthusiasts, and FX/FJ, FE/FC and FB/EK Clubs). Much of the information below is drawn from internet forums, discussion with enthusiasts and common sense. I have used photos and other information from a wide variety of sources, particularly from the forums if anyone is offended by my use of the material, feels I have breached copyright or needs recognition, please let me know and I will correct the issue immediately. I would however like to thank the following for their patience and willingness to help me learn: Keith Hoffmann for fantastic access to some of the Workshop Manuals, Accelerator Magazines and accessory information (and for reading through all the Service Bulletins up to 1965 in search of crashbox info). Ken Mclean for some very cool information on floor shifters, Garth Campbell for some excellent background information on Impala Performance Products, Rossco for access to Workshop manual scans, Jeff, Craig, Dave and Matto for access to early crashbox, red crashbox and Aussie 3-speed boxes, The teams from each of Rare Spares, Speco Thomas and Status Engineering for taking the time to help with information, and a bunch of other forum members for answering questions and climbing under cars to check numbers along the way. Equally, I have made opinions and drawn conclusions on some of the information I have found and equipment I have owned, and have cross-referenced a significant amount of printed material - if anyone believes that I have made an error (or knows a better way to do something), please let me know and I will update the document... after all, the main purpose here is to help other early Holden enthusiasts. I have marked some text in red in this document where I am missing information any help in closing these gaps is appreciated.

I have also drawn information by cross-referencing the following sources: The Holden Workshop Manual (48/215 Manual) The Holden FJ Workshop Manual The Holden FE and FC Workshop Manual. The Holden EK Workshop Manual. The Holden FB Workshop Manual. The Holden EJ EH Workshop Manual. The Holden HD Workshop Manual. The Holden HR Workshop Manual. Like all things automotive, installing, operating and maintaining a gearbox comes with a risk. Leaking transmission fluid can lead to dry boxes and damage, and misinstalled clutches can lead to loss of operation whilst at speed (amongst other hazards). Any advice contained in this document is to be taken at the readers risk qualified mechanics should be consulted where appropriate. Note that this document contains a number of templates. To squeeze them onto an A4 page, many are no longer at the correct size to just print and use. For each drawing, I have included a scale. To get the right size, print the document out then enlarge/reduce on a photocopier until the scale is the correct dimensions.

2 Identification Grey motor crashboxes served from the original FX Holden all the way through to the EK Holden. Some minor changes were made to the design of the gearbox over these vehicle models, and will be detailed in Section 3 below. The purpose of this Section is to give a method of determining approximately which model Holden a given gearbox was fitted to, and a way of working out just which gearbox your vehicle has. Pictured below (from left to right) are a grey motor crashbox, a red motor crashbox, an Aussie 3speed (without bellhousing) and a hydramatic.

2.1 Basic identification When first buying an early Holden, it can often be a surprise finding out what bits have been retrofitted over the years - engines (often red motors swapped over for grey motors), suspension (the HR Holden ball-joint front end swapped over for the original kingpin front end), and sometimes gearboxes. If the vehicle is a manual, there is a pretty fair chance you have the original three speed crashbox but sometimes there are surprises. The diagram below shows some ways of identifying various gearboxes either by their dimensions or the pan shape. Note that all Holden inline six-cylinder engines (grey, red, blue and black) have the same bolt pattern on the rear of the block, and corresponding identical transmission bellhousing bolt pattern. There are however differences in bolt pattern between the bellhousing and gearbox casing (noting though that the grey motor crashbox has the bellhousing and casing cast as one piece).

2.2 Identification numbers The gearbox identification number is stamped on the passengers side rear quarter of the casing (see the red arrow in the image to the right). To my knowledge, no-one has a register of grey motor crashbox numbers (unlike the excellent registers that exist for engine numbers), so the following is my best guess at the link between vehicle and gearbox identification number it is conjecture at best. I have drawn the table below using the pictures shown in the factory workshop manuals. Model First engine number Engine number shown in workshop manual Gearbox number shown in workshop manual FX 1001 1000 041 FJ 121694 120694 FE L283373 L306471 L296076 FC L439507 L441345 FB B1001 B1001 EK B181400 B175814 B183235 EJ J1001 J1001

My theory: a) The gearbox identification number is not necessarily the same as engine number. b) Gearbox numbers are probably in the same format as engine numbers (for example FE and FC Holdens have L prefix engines and gearboxes). There is likely to be some overlap betwe en models (e.g. when the FB Holden was introduced, there may still have been some L gearbox cases leftover from the FC Holden run that were used). c) The numbers above can be used to infer (very) approximate vehicle/gearbox number matches (for example an FB Holden gearbox probably has a number between B1001 and B183235). Note however that this is very approximate, and there is likely to be a lot of overlap for example I have found a gearbox which should be from an FB Holden using the process above (B154496) which had EK Holden type first and reverse/second and third shifter lever cams.

2.3 Casting Dates Adjacent to the cast part number (on the main gearbox body aft of the bellhousing) is a casting clock and further cast number (see green arrow in the image above). The cast number consists of a letter followed by several (typically three, sometimes two with a space) digits. For example J259, D308, D218, F258, G288, M210, J6 1, G 249, E3 2, L257, G135, D 66, E287, K238, D218, A806, C 6 9 and M1 8. The cast number in the image to the right is G248.

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The letters represent casting month, with the letter I not used i.e.: A = January B = February C = March D = April E = May F = June G = July H = August J = September K = October L = November M = December The first two digits (or first digit and space) indicate casting day, whilst the last digit indicates the year (for th example D308 being the 30 of April in a year ending in 8 it was on a FX/FJ casing, so probably 1948).

2.4 Identification Process The following gives an approximate process for determining approximately which model Holden a given gearbox was fitted to: a) Read the gearbox identification number is stamped on the passengers side rear quarter of the casing, and use the table below to determine approximately what vehicle range applies i.e.: Model Gearbox identification number b) FX 041120694 FJ 120694 onwards FE L296076L441345 FC L441345 onwards FB B1001B183235 EK B183235 onwards EJ J1001 onwards

c)

Read the cast date number (on the main gearbox body aft of the bellhousing), and translate the last digit (the year code) into a year and month using the A-M guide above. This will give you the last number of the year (for example 8, which could be 1948 or 1958). Using the approximate model from step a) above, cross check the year using the approximate guide below: FX Holden: November 1948 October 1953, FJ Holden: October 1953 July 1956, FE Holden: July 1956 May 1958, FC Holden: May 1958 January 1960, FB Holden: January 1960 - May 1961, and EK Holden: May 1961- July 1962 (note that EK panel vans and utilities did not get replaced by the EJ Holden until January 1963).

As examples: A gearbox with an identification number stamp of 165991 and cast date number of B141. Step a) indicates the gearbox is probably from an FJ Holden. Step b) indicates the gearbox was cast on th February 14 in a year ending with 1. Step c) indicates this is probably 1951, and the gearbox is probably from an FJ Holden.

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 A gearbox with an identification number stamp of L455594 and cast date number of D218. Step a) indicates the gearbox is probably from an FC Holden. Step b) indicates the gearbox was cast on April st 21 in a year ending with 8. Step c) indicates this is probably 1958, and the gearbox could be either late FE or early FC. A gearbox with an identification number stamp of B154496 and cast date number of M210. Step a) indicates the gearbox is probably from an FB Holden. Step b) indicates the gearbox was cast on st December 21 in a year ending with 0. Step c) indicates this is probably 1960, and the gearbox is probably from an FB Holden. A gearbox with an identification number stamp of B214594 and cast date number of J 51. Step a) indicates the gearbox is probably from an EK Holden. Step b) indicates the gearbox was cast on th September 5 in a year ending with 1. Step c) indicates this is probably 1961, and the gearbox is probably from an EK Holden. As an aside, some of the early gearboxes have some interesting stampings. One FX/FJ Holden gearbox casting I have has a cast date number th of D308, indicating an April 30 1948 casting. This casting has five separate identification numbers stamped into it, some of which are overstamped, and all preceded by the letters GB (presumably for Gear Box): GB1294, GB1549, GB1734, and GB1818 (stamped twice).

A further gearbox owned by an FX/FJ Holden forum member is stamped U303308 a number aligned to the engine numbers of the period.

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3 Construction The following text describes the construction of the grey motor crashbox. It may be assumed that all crashbox parts from FX Holden through to EK Holden are identical unless noted otherwise below. Equally, gearbox parts shared with later model Holdens will also be noted. I will not highlight the differences in gearshift assemblies (the linkages that connect the gearbox to the steering column) as they vary significantly from model to model. The grey motor transmission (crashbox) is a three-speed all helical geared unit, with synchromesh on second and third gears only (no synchromesh on first gear). The overhaul kit for the crashbox (part number 7430864) was changed at the FB model (to part number 7430373) to accommodate the doublerow bearings introduced with the FB models. When fitting the later 7430373 overhaul kit to 48, 50, FJ, FE or FC Holden models, it is necessary to ensure that the mainshaft (part number 7400127) is machined to accommodate the double row bearing lock ring (more information on this change is presented below).

3.1 Housings The clutch housing (or bell housing) and transmission case are cast as one unit, and a separate extension housing is bolted to the rear of the case to accommodate the extended main shaft. The bottom of the casing is fitted with a pressed steel inspection cover which acts as a sump and has a drain plug. The drain plug (and hence hole in the inspection cover) was originally "-16 (1 AF), but was changed during the FC Holden model (at engine number L584117) to "-20 ( AF) see image to the right. Whilst the inspection covers are interchangeable, the plug size (and copper/asbestos gasket used for each type of drain plug) must match the cover. Note that the Master Parts Catalogue (20 Years of Holden Production) lists the following part numbers for right-hand drive gearbox assemblies: a) 48/50/FJ up to engine 283372 = 7400124. b) FJ from engine U283384, FE, FC, FB, EK right hand drive = 740997 However, this number probably refers to a complete gearbox. It is evident that the part numbers (not assembly numbers) are cast into the actual casings, and are one number higher than this i.e.: a) FX Holdens and FJ Holdens up to engine 283372 have 7400125 cast into the casing, and b) FJ Holdens from engine U283384, FE Holdens, FC Holdens, FB Holdens and EK Holdens right hand drive have 7409980 cast into them. Note that some early gearboxes do not have any part number cast into them. Both the FX/FJ Holden and FJ/EK Holden casings are similar in construction, being sand-cast cast iron poured from multiple piece moulds. The mould lines on both types of casing, and indeed the casing dimensions appear identical, and it is likely the same moulds were used for both. Minor differences are notable between individual casings (for example in the front flange web at the 7/8 oclock position) resultant from different moulding handling or different moulds being used. These differences are not consistent across individual models (i.e. are not evident of a systematic change being made). One casting change that is evident is that some early FX/FJ Holden castings have an external rib running from the front corners of the sump up to the 3/6 oclock positions on the bellhousing flange (see photographs below). The ribs are shown in the FX Holden and FJ Holden Workshop manuals (though not in the later model manuals), as well as in the Masterparts 20 Years Catalogue. Note that the change to delete the ribs in later casings is not clear for example ribs are evident in casings from January 1948, September

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1952 and October 1954, but are not evident in a casing cast in April 1948. It appears that the rib went right through up to engine number 283372 and with the introduction of the ''U'' prefix engines (U283384), which was when the later gearbox (casings cast with 7409980) was introduced into the last of the FJ utilities and panel vans. All up the rib was deleted with the last of the FJ Holdens and the introduction of the FE Holden, possibly because the new clutch slave cylinder on the FE Holden fouling.

Many of the Army utes purchased by enthusiasts have had the ribbed gearboxes installed. It is probable that the external ribs were cast in some early gearboxes, and then the moulds changed to omit the ribs. Army production vehicles were probably fitted with the external ribs as part of the Army purchase orders, though the RPO does not mention them (see photo to the right). As with many Holden parts, ribbed gearboxes were probably swapped over or reconditioned over the last fifty years, and now appear in some vehicles where they were not originally factory fitted.

Casings have a single number (e.g. 7) c ast into them on either side of the gearbox adjacent to the fill plug. The numbers are identical either side of the casing but are not sequential in different gearboxes (i.e. would not seem to denote a systematic linear change). The earliest castings had no manufacturer identity cast into them at all, then through late 1949 a very small GMH circular logo was impressed within the casting which was followed in the latter part of 1953 with a substantially raised, larger GMH logo. By late

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1954 the name HOLDEN started to appear on the castings and this identifier remained through production. Malleable Castings were a provider of castings to GMH at a sub contractor level ...these can be identified by the letters MC followed by the part number and appear on a lot of steering and suspension castings and differential carriers as production ramped up. Two changes in casing machining are evident: a) The FJ/EK Holden casings (or at least those made from the FE Holden onwards) have a flat surface machined across the drivers side of the bellhousing flange to accommodate the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder introduced during the FE Holden model see image below on the left. The FX/FJ Holden casings are not machined in this area see image below on the right.

b) Early casings (both FX/FJ Holden and FJ/EK Holden) have six holes tapped into the lower half of the bellhousing flange to allow the clutch/flywheel dust cover to be bolted to the bellhousing. Later casings (apparently around the FC Holden model) only have four holes tapped, deleting the two holes at the 4 and 8 oclock positions see green painted arrows in the picture to the right. The small flange boss inside the bellhousing for these two holes is also absent (a minor casting change). Looking at original vehicles shows that the change appears to have been made in the FE Holden model (i.e. FX-FJ Holdens normally have six holes in the bellhousing and six bolts in the dustcover, whilst FE-EK Holdens have four holes in the bellhousing and four bolts in the dustcover. The part number for the FX-FJ Holden dust cover was 7401301, whilst the later four hole plate was part number 7414741. In short, all FX-EK Holden casings are interchangeable, though if an FX/FJ Holden casing is used in an FE-EK Holden, a flat surface must be machined across the drivers side of the bellhousing flange to accommodate the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and two of the dust cover bolts left out.

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Three types of extension housing were manufactured for grey motor crashboxes. The first type, fitted to FX and some FJ Holdens is made from mild steel flanges and tubes which are welded together. The steel construction was replaced during the FJ production run an all cast alloy extension housing, which was used for all later models. The cast housing had two versions, one with short strengthening ribs, and one with longer strengthening ribs (see image below).

The Master Parts Catalogue (20 Years of Holden Production) lists the part number for extension housings assemblies for FX-EK Holden as 7408347. This assembly is the housing and bushings made up with the alloy casting. The alloy extension housings have either 7408348 cast into them (again one number higher than the parts list as this is a casting, not an assembly), or just plain HOLDEN and no part number. The dimensions (overall length, bushing length and diameter, bolt location, locating flange lip diameter) are identical, through the mild steel unit is 3 /16 longer due to the use of an extra shroud at the rear of the extension (looks much bigger in the photograph above). A lip seal is press fitted into the rear of the extension and seals up against the main drive shaft as it exits the gearbox. The two units, including the seals, are fully interchangeable. Note that the dowels used to mount the crashbox to the grey motor (part number 7401304 for normal size and 7406004 for oversized) were continued to be used on the EJ and EH manual transmissions.

3.2 Shafts, Bushings and Bearings The clutch gear shaft (or input shaft) is supported at the spigot (engine) end by a sintered bronze bushing in most grey motor transmissions (FX Holdens had roller bearings, which were changed to bushes midway through the FJ Holden model). The bushing is retained by an interference fit in the end of the crankshaft. The gearbox end of the clutch gear shaft is supported by a single-race ball bearing. A retainer bolts to the front of the

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transmission case and retains the ball bearing and shaft in the transmission case. The retainer also provides a mounting for the clutch release bearing. The retainer assembly was originally secured by three 5 7 /16-18 x " bolts, though these bolts were in increased in length to /8" midway through the FJ Holden production run (an additional two threads about 18% more fastener resistance to pull ing out of the casing) see image to the right above.

The front end of the main drive shaft (or output shaft) runs on needle rollers in the hollow end of the clutch gear shaft. The middle of the main drive shaft is supported by a single-row ball bearing (GMH part number N954412). The ball bearing is held into the casing with a snap ring (the main bearing lock ring). The mainshaft is located in position by a steel thrust washer on one side and a main shaft lock ring on the other side of the ball bearing. This ball bearing was changed on FB and EK Holdens to double-row ball bearings, part number 7406231 (see image to the right above which shows a disassembled double row bearing). The single row bearing is 15mm thick, whilst the double row bearing is 20.5mm thick. To accommodate the change in thickness, a second lock ring groove was machined into FB and EK Holden main drive shafts 5.5mm further along the shaft. The original groove gets covered by the thicker bearing, whilst the new second groove allows the main shaft lock ring to be refitted. In the image to the right, the upper shaft is a FX-FC Holden main drive shaft, made for a single row ball bearing. The area the ball bearing runs on covered with a green circle, whilst the single lock ring groove is shown by the red arrow. The lower image shows an FB-EK Holden main drive shaft, made for the double row bearing. The two lock ring grooves are shown by red arrows. If the double-row bearings are fitted to an FX-FC Holden main drive shaft, the lock ring groove is obscured. There are two ways to overcome this: a) Machine a second groove in the main drive shaft, just like an FB-EK Holden one, or b) Fit a spacer between the ball bearing and the speedo drive gear, and use the (existent) speedo lock ring to hold the assembly in place. The spacers were a fairly common solution (Ive found quite a few whilst pulling crashboxes apart). The dimensions of the spacers are 1 OD, 0.996ID and 1.374 long see image to the right. The two images below show the lineup the image to the left shows how a standard bearing is located, whilst that to the right shows the thicker bearing and spacer. Red lines show rings or balls that lock into the shaft, whilst green shows where the bearing, spacer and speedo gear ride on the shaft.

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Note that the modern replacement ball bearings supplied in overhaul kits are all similar to the old single row bearing (15mm depth). This means that the single row bearings in the kits can be used with either FX-FC Holden or FB-EK Holden main drive shafts. If the main drive shaft is an FX-FC Holden unit which has previously had a double-row bearing fitted with a spacer, the spacer is left out and a new main shaft lock ring fitted. The only time you would now ever need to use the spacer shown above is if you were fitting a NOS double-row bearing onto an FX-FC Holden main drive shaft In this way, all grey motor crashbox main drive shafts are now fully interchangeable. The rear end of the main drive shaft is splined, and engages into the splines of the front universal joint yoke. Fore and aft movement of the propeller shaft is accommodated on this spline. Pressed into the rear of the extension housing is a porous sintered bronze bushing (or an optional steel backed bronze (unsintered) bushing for FB and EK Holdens) and an oil seal. The bushing supports the front universal joint yoke, and hence the rear end of the main drive shaft. The transmission counter shaft gear (layshaft) runs on needle rollers, whilst the reverse idler gear is fitted with bronze bushes. Both shafts are fitted with bronze, steel-backed thrust washers (the four thrust washers in each crashbox are identical).

3.3 Gears With the exception of the speedometer drive gear, the gear ratios for all FX-EK Holdens were constant (i.e. there were not specially made GMH gear ratios for commercial vehicles or other models). The gear teeth counts are illustrated in the table below: Gear Clutch gear Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Counter gear (part that engages main shaft second speed gear) Counter gear (part that engages both first and reverse sliding gear and reverse idler gear) Counter gear (part that engages clutch gear) Reverse Idler Gear (both ends are the same) Speedometer drive gear Teeth 17 23 33 17 13 20 18 6

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Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly (FX/FJ Holden) Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly (FE/EK Holden) This gives the following gear ratios: First: Second: Third: Reverse 660:221 (2.986425:1) 460:289 (1.591696:1) 1:1 660:221 (2.986425:1)

22 23

3.4 Selector Forks The role of the selector forks is to move the gears inside the gearbox during gearshifts. Two separate yokes (the first and reverse shifter yoke and the second and third shifter yoke) move the first-reverse sliding gear and second and third-speed clutch respectively by pushing on them. The yokes are connected to shifter shafts which are in turn driven by cams (the first and reverse shifter lever and the second and third shifter lever) on the selector shaft. The selector shaft is driven in turn by both the shifter lever and the selector shaft control lever. Lock balls and springs are assembled in the top of the case and retained in place by two cap screws. The balls engage detent grooves in the shifter shafts to lock the shaft in the required position for the engagement of the various gears.

Note that both the first and reverse shifter lever (cam) and the second and third shifter lever (cam) changed during the EK Holden model. FX-FB Holdens have screws which lock the levers onto the selector shaft see lower image to the right. The EK Holden however does not have the screws, instead utilizing splines on the selector shaft to lock the levers to the shaft see upper image to the right. The two types of selector shaft assemblies are fully interchangeable. The grey motor crashbox is fitted with two external levers - a shifter lever, and a selector shaft control lever. A number of changes were made in the levers over the life of the crashbox: a) The shifter lever hole used to connect to the gear shift linkage changed from /16 diameter (FX and 3 FJ Holden) to /8 diameter (FE and FC Holden). The hole was then changed to in the FB Holden run (from engine number B169037) due to the need to eliminate metallic rattling on rough roads see Service Bulletin below. An insulator was installed into the larger hole. The large-hole lever and insulator continued to be used on the EK Holden (the lever is part number 7419060, with the
5

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insulator

being

part

number

7419061).

b)

The selector shaft control lever changed in length (became longer) at the FE Holden model (FX-FJ Holdens use part number 7400177, whilst FE-EK Holdens use 7409290 for right hand drive).

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The image below shows (from left to right) a FX-FJ Holden selector shaft control lever, a FE-EK Holden selector shaft control lever, a FX-FJ Holden shifter lever, a FE-FC Holden shifter lever and a FB-EK Holden shifter lever.

3.5 Speedometer The speedometer cable is driven from the main drive shaft via a worm drive. The drive gear (a worm 3 gear) is locked to the main drive shaft by a /16 diameter steel ball. The driven gear spins a shaft that exits the side of the gearbox, and ends in a hollow square-drive fitting. The speedometer cable has a core (inner) with a square cut end that slips into the square drive fitting.

The speedometer driven gear unit screws into the casing, and was changed from a 22-tooth unit in FX/FJ Holdens (part number 7405060) to a 23tooth unit for FE/EK Holdens (part number 7405945). The image to the right shows both an FE/EK Holden unit (upper image) and an FX/FJ Holden unit (lower image). This change means that the speedometer cable speed for FE/EK Holdens is some 4.3% slower than the FX/FJ Holden cable.

This may be handy for those who have changed tyre profile, and have found their speedo is out: a) Changing from a FX/FJ Holden driven gear unit to an FE/EK Holden unit will reduce the speedometer reading by 4.3%, whilst b) Changing from a FE/EK Holden driven gear unit to an FX/FJ Holden unit will increase the speedometer reading by 4.3%. Granted not much of a change, but I guess every little bit helps.

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It is tempting to try the speedo gears from either a red motor crashbox, or an Aussie 3-speed (as they have many aftermarket speedo gear ratios available). The photo to the right shows (from left to right) a red motor crashbox, grey motor crashbox and Aussie 3speed gear sitting on a red motor crashbox shaft. Sadly, the red and grey motor gears are the same pitch (no point swapping them), and the Aussie 3-speed gears are far too big to fit the grey motor crashbox (the Aussie 3-speed shaft is 0.193 larger in diameter).

3.6 Lubrication

The grey motor crashbox is splash lubricated (i.e. does not have a pressurised oil system). Oil is held in the bottom of the casing to just above the centerline of the countergear (see yellow area in the diagram below).

An elastomer oil seal is located at the rear of the front propeller shaft housing, sealing the output shaft of the gearbox. The input shaft of the gearbox (circled in green above) is a little more complex. Oil tends to sneak past the ball bearing, and try to run along the shaft. However, the shaft has an Archimedes screw cut into it (see red arrow in the image to the right). As the shaft turns, the Archimedes screw pumps oil back along the shaft. A slinger ring uses centrifugal force to flick the pumped oil off the shaft. The oil is then returned to the casing via a channel in the clutch gear retainer (see diagram below).

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In the photo above right, the slinger ring sits where the green arrow is located, whilst the bearing sits where the blue arrow is located. Note that the original crashbox front and rear ball bearings were of open design. This allowed oil to flow across the bearing surfaces, providing lubrication. The bearings provided in the aftermarket kits (see Section 7.1 below) are of the sealed type. The bearing balls are pre-packed with grease, and have metal shields sealed in place over the bearing balls. This means that the oil flow through the bearings is negligible. For the front bearing of the gearbox (circled in green in the image below), this is not a problem (in fact it takes almost all the load off the Archimedes screw setup). For the rear bearing of the gearbox (circled in red in the image below), the new bearing type means that little oil can pass from the gearbox sump into the extension housing. This means that the speedometer gears (circled in blue), and more importantly the tailshaft yoke bushing (circled in pink) can be starved of lubricant. It is critical that when overhauling the gearbox (or after removing the extension housing) that some oil (about 170mL or 6oz) is poured directly into the extension housing through the breather cap. This oil will then provide lubrication for the speedometer gears and tailshaft yoke bushing.

The counter gears fitted to FX-FC Holdens are fitted with three longitudinal grooves internally, and a drain hole in the middle of each gear assembly (see image to the right the left hand counter gear has the grooves). This allows the gear to fill up with oil between the shaft and gear assemblies. By filling with oil, the counter gear needle roller bearings have oil at either end (inside the gear and outside in the gearbox sump) for lubrication. In later FB/EK Holdens, the grooves were omitted (though the drain holes remained in

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place). Note that I have dated this change from a number of gearboxes I have disassembled. The two types of counter gear assemblies are fully interchangeable.

The reverse idler gear steel bodies equally have longitudinal grooves and a drain hole. However, the reverse idler gear runs on two bronze bushings. The bushings both have a spiral groove cut into them (see image to the right). As the reverse idler gear (and bushings) turn, the grooves act as Archimedes screws and pump oil across the bushing face. This provides effective lubrication.

3.7 Weight a used grey crashbox, without oil, clutch or flywheel, weighs approximately 27kg. a used red crashbox weighs 21.0kg (6kg of this is the bellhousing). a used Aussie 3 speed weighs 27.5kg (without bellhousing). a used hydramatic weighs 47.5kg.

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4 Operation The following text describes the operation of the grey motor crashbox.

4.1 Power Transmission The following text describes the power transmission path for various gears selected, whilst the diagrams show the power transmission path in red. Of note, the clutch gear shaft, countershaft gear, reverse idler gear and main shaft second speed gear are always spinning, even in neutral they are not coloured red in some of the diagrams as although they are spinning, they are not transmitting power. The table following the text shows the relative speed of the shafts, assuming that the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) is spinning at 1,000rpm.

4.1.1 Neutral

a) Clutch gear shaft is being turned by engine. Clutch gear (part of shaft) turns. Clutch gear shaft and main drive shaft are not coupled together. b) Clutch gear drives countershaft gear. c) Countershaft gear drives reverse idler gear, which freewheels. d) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft. e) Main drive shaft is static. Shaft Clutch gear shaft (input shaft) Countershaft (layshaft) Reverse idler gear Main drive shaft (output shaft) Speedometer cable (FX/FJ) Speedometer cable (FE/EK) Transmitting Power? Yes Yes No No N/A Speed (rpm) 1,000 850 614 0

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4.1.2 First Gear First gear couples the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) and the main drive shaft (output shaft) via the countershaft (layshaft) gears.

a) First and reverse sliding gear slides forwards along second and third speed clutch, engaging countershaft gear. b) Clutch gear shaft is being turned by engine. Clutch gear (part of shaft) turns. Clutch gear shaft and main drive shaft are not coupled together. c) Clutch gear drives countershaft gear. d) Countershaft gear drives reverse idle gear which freewheels. e) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft. f) Countershaft gear drives first and reverse sliding gear. g) First and reverse sliding gear drives second and third speed clutch. h) Second and third speed clutch drives main drive shaft. Shaft Clutch gear shaft (input shaft) Countershaft (layshaft) Reverse idler gear Main drive shaft (output shaft) Speedometer cable (FX/FJ) Speedometer cable (FE/EK) Transmitting Power? Yes Yes No Yes N/A Speed (rpm) 1,000 850 614 335 87 83

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4.1.3 Second Gear Second gear, like first gear, couples the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) and the main drive shaft (output shaft) via the countershaft (layshaft) gears.

a) First and reverse sliding gear slides back to neutral position. Second and third speed clutch slides backwards and engages second speed gear via synchro-mesh cone. b) Clutch gear shaft is being turned by engine. Clutch gear (part of shaft) turns. Clutch gear shaft and main drive shaft are not coupled together. c) Clutch gear drives countershaft gear. d) Countershaft gear drives reverse idler gear which freewheels. e) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft. f) Main shaft second speed gear drives second and third speed clutch. g) Second and third speed clutch drives main drive shaft. Shaft Clutch gear shaft (input shaft) Countershaft (layshaft) Reverse idler gear Main drive shaft (output shaft) Speedometer cable (FX/FJ) Speedometer cable (FE/EK) Transmitting Power? Yes Yes No Yes N/A Speed (rpm) 1,000 850 614 628 164 157

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4.1.4 Third Gear Third gear directly couples the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) and the main drive shaft (output shaft).

a) Second and third speed clutch slides forwards, disengaging the second speed gear and engaging the clutch gear via synchro-mesh cone. b) Clutch gear shaft is being turned by engine. Clutch gear (part of shaft) turns. Clutch gear shaft drives second and third speed clutch. c) Second and third speed clutch drives main drive shaft. d) Clutch gear drives countershaft gear. e) Countershaft gear drives reverse idle gear which freewheels. f) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft. Shaft Clutch gear shaft (input shaft) Countershaft (layshaft) Reverse idler gear Main drive shaft (output shaft) Speedometer cable (FX/FJ) Speedometer cable (FE/EK) Transmitting Power? Yes Yes No Yes N/A Speed (rpm) 1,000 850 614 1,000 261 250

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4.1.5 Reverse Gear Reverse gear couples the clutch gear shaft (input shaft) to the countershaft (layshaft), the countershaft to the reverse idler gear, and the reverse idler gear to the main drive shaft (output shaft).

a) First and reverse sliding gear slides backwards and engages the reverse idler gear. b) Clutch gear shaft is being turned by engine. Clutch gear (part of shaft) turns. Clutch gear shaft and main drive shaft are not coupled together. c) Clutch gear drives countershaft gear. d) Countershaft gear drives main shaft second speed gear which freewheels on the main shaft. e) Countershaft gear drives reverse idler gear. f) Reverse idler gear drives first and reverse sliding gear in reverse rotation. g) First and reverse sliding gear drives second and third speed clutch in reverse rotation. h) Second and third speed clutch drives main drive shaft in reverse rotation. Shaft Clutch gear shaft (input shaft) Countershaft (layshaft) Reverse idler gear Main drive shaft (output shaft) Speedometer cable (FX/FJ) Speedometer cable (FE/EK) Transmitting Power? Yes Yes Yes Yes N/A Speed (rpm) 1,000 850 614 335 87 83

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4.2 Selector Forks The gearshift process works by moving either of the first-reverse sliding gear or the second and third-speed clutch around inside the casing. All the other gears are fixed and in constant mesh. The selector forks work by first choosing which one of the first-reverse sliding gear or the second and third-speed clutch to move, and then moving it. The selector shaft control lever (the lower lever on the gearbox) decides which of the first-reverse sliding gear or the second and third-speed clutch are moved. The shifter lever (the upper lever on the gearbox) decides whether the first-reverse sliding gear or the second and thirdspeed clutch are moved backwards or forwards. To simplify, we will look at the action of the selector shaft control lever first (see diagram below). When the gear lever on the steering column is pushed towards the windscreen (for second and third gears), the red lines in the diagram are followed: a) b) The selector shaft control lever moves clockwise (towards the rear of the vehicle). The selector lever shaft assembly turns clockwise, and pushes against the selector shaft. The selector shaft moves outwards. The first and reverse shifter lever (cam) moves away from the first and reverse shifter shaft and can no longer operate (move) it. The second and second and third shifter lever (cam) moves towards the second and third shifter shaft and can now operate (move) it. We can now move the second and third-speed clutch.

c) d)

e)

When the gear lever on the steering column is pulled away from the windscreen (for first and reverse gears), the green lines in the diagram are followed: a) b) c) d) The selector shaft control lever moves anticlockwise (towards the front of the vehicle). The selector lever shaft assembly turns anticlockwise, and pushes against the selector shaft. The selector shaft moves inwards. The first and reverse shifter lever (cam) moves towards the first and reverse shifter shaft and can now operate (move) it. We can now move the first and reverse sliding gear.

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e)

The second and second and third shifter lever (cam) moves away from the second and third shifter shaft and can no longer operate (move) it.

We will now look at the action of the shifter lever (see diagram to the right). When the gear lever on the steering column is pushed towards the floor (for first and third gears), the red lines in the diagram are followed: a) b) The shifter lever moves clockwise (towards the front of the vehicle). The first and reverse shifter lever and second and third shifter lever move clockwise (cams move towards front of vehicle). The first and reverse shifter lever or the second and third shifter lever (whichever one has been selected by the selector shaft control lever) pushes the respective shifter shaft towards the front of the vehicle. The respective shifter yoke moves either the first and reverse sliding gear or the second and thirdspeed clutch forwards.

c)

d)

When the gear lever on the steering column is pushed towards the roof (for second and reverse gears), the green lines in the diagram are followed: a) b) c) The shifter lever moves anticlockwise. The first and reverse shifter lever and second and third shifter lever move anticlockwise (cams move towards rear of vehicle). The first and reverse shifter lever or the second and third shifter lever (whichever one has been selected by the selector shaft control lever) pushes the respective shifter shaft towards the rear of the vehicle. The respective shifter yoke moves either the first and reverse sliding gear or the second and thirdspeed clutch backwards.

d)

When looking at the side of the gearbox, the lever positions are as shown in the image to the right.

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The shifter shafts are held in place to prevent the gearbox jumping out of gear. This is done by the three detent grooves machined into each of the shafts see red arrows in the image to the right. The middle 3 grooves represents the neutral position. A /16 diameter steel ball sits in the grooves (one ball for each shaft), held down into the groove by a spring. When the shafts are moved backwards or forwards (to change a gear), the balls ride up from one groove, and then slip down into the next groove. The friction caused by the spring rubbing the ball on the lumps between grooves is what stops the shafts moving on their own (and hence jumping out of gear).

4.3 Synchro-mesh Synchro-mesh is a process used inside the crashbox when shifting into either second or third gears. The aim of synchro-mesh is to ensure the gearbox components are spinning at the same speed before they are coupled together. This prevents gear crunching, and makes the gear change smooth. Synchro-mesh nd rd nd rd is accomplished by the 2 and 3 speed clutch assembly. The 2 and 3 speed clutch assembly nd nd connects to either of the 2 speed gear (when moving into 2 gear) or the clutch gear (when moving into rd nd rd 3 gear). The 2 and 3 clutch is splined internally to engage the splines on the main shaft and is free to move along the splines moving forward contacts the clutch gear, and moving backwards contacts the nd 2 speed gear. Reading the descriptions of synchro-mesh in the Workshop Manuals is pretty daunting you need to be a rocket scientist to understand what is being described. In the text below, Im going to describe syncho mesh in simple terms.

The whole aim of synchro-mesh is to join two gears together end-to end i.e. as per the green arrow in the diagram to the right, not the red arrow. The easiest way to think of syncho-mesh is that it is a very simple set of brakes the synchro internals rub together like a brake drum, slowing one gear until it is at the same speed as the other.

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To demonstrate this, lets look at how the main shaft second speed gear (the part on the right hand side of the image to the right), and the second and third speed clutch (the part on the left hand side of the image) join together. To make it simple, Im going to call them the red dot part and blue dot part. We want to go from this:

to this:

When the two gears join, the external dog teeth on the main shaft second speed gear (marked by red arrows in the image to the right), slip into the internal dog teeth of the second and third speed clutch (marked by green arrows). If these two parts are spinning at different speeds, they will crunch horribly. This is where our synchro assembly comes into play.

The synchro assembly lives in the end of the second and third speed clutch gear, held in place by the circlip you can see in the image to the right. The steel synchronizing cone (the bit my finger is resting on) is held in place by the circlip, but is free to spin in the clutch assembly.

In reality, the main shaft second speed gear and the second and third speed clutch dont sit as far apart as my first

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photo showed. Even when they are not joined, they sit inside each other like the image above left. This means the steel synchro cone lug (red arrow in the image above right) rides in the main shaft second speed gear groove (green arrow) all the time. Again, in simple terms, we want to join together the part with the red dot to the part with the blue dot. Our steel synchro cone (green dot) is spinning at the same speed as the blue dot part, which is moving through it in the direction of the yellow arrow. For arguments sake, assume our red dot is spinning at 1000rpm, and out blue and green dots at 500 rpm. We need to slow down the red dot a bit so that the gears dont crunch. This is where the other half of the sychro assembly comes into play. Located inside our red dot part are bronze syncho rings. These are pressed and staked in place (the FB and EK Holden Workshop Manuals indicate they are then staked in place the earlier manuals make no mention of this, though visually there is no difference in the earlier and later assemblies ). The face of the bronze syncro rings have a groove pattern to permit rapid scavenging of the gearbox oil film to inhibit scuffing and hence permit rapid engagement of synchro. As the steel synchro cone and bronze synchro rings are pushed together, they rub on each other (see red and green arrows in the image to the right). This rubbing acts like a brake, slowing down our red dot part until it is the same speed as our blue dot part.

Again, in simple terms, we want to join together the part with the red dot to the part with the blue dot. Our steel synchro cone (green dot) is spinning at the same speed as the blue dot part, which is moving through it in the direction of the yellow arrow. The green dot part is going to rub on the inside of the red dot part, slowing down the red dot part.

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While this slowing down process is happening, something interesting is happening between the steel synchro cone (our green dot part) and our blue dot part The two parts are spinning at the same speed, with the blue dot part trying to pass through our green dot steel synchro cone. However, because the steel synchro cone is being rubbed on by the brass synchro ring, it tends to rotate slightly relative to our blue dot part. In the image to the right, you can see the green painted lug on the synchro, and the yellow painted tip of the receiving groove. Because the two parts have turned relative to each other, the yellow painted tip is stuck on the green painted groove, preventing the two parts moving together. Once the braking process has finished (our red dot and blue dot parts are spinning at the same speed), the steel synchro cone no longer has the braking force on it, and it can rotate slightly. This lets the green painted lug on the synchro, and the yellow painted tip of the receiving groove line up, and the two parts can pass through each other. This lets the blue dot and red dot parts finally join together. Again, in simple terms, we want to join together the part with the red dot to the part with the blue dot. Our steel synchro cone (green dot) is spinning at the same speed as the blue dot part, which is moving through it in the direction of the yellow arrow. The green dot part is going to rub on the inside of the red dot part, slowing down the red dot part. Because of the rubbing, the green dot and blue dot parts sit cockeyed to each other, so the blue dot part cant move forward. Once the red, green and blue dot parts are at the same speed, the rubbing stops. The blue and green dot parts twist slightly, line up and allow the blue dot part to move forward. The red dot and blue dot parts finally join. To put some tension on the assembly, a spring is located inside the steel synchro cone (see images to the right). The spring acts as a buffer between our

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blue dot part and the synchro assembly, putting in place enough force to slow the parts down without jamming to synchro cone and ring together harshly.

Putting all this together in a simple drawing gives the image to the right.

4.4 EK Holden Owners Manual Guidance The EK Holden Owner Manual offers the following advice: THE FOLLOWING SHOULD BE OBSERVED AT ALL TIMES Do not hesitate to shift gears to avoid overloading the engine. GEAR SHIFT LEVER The gear shift lever may be placed in any one of five positions neutral, reverse, first, second and third. The operation of the lever in engaging the gears consecutively is as follows:1. See that the gear shift lever is in neutral position (lever may be moved up and down). 2. First Speed: With clutch pedal depressed, raise lever toward steering wheel and pull downwards until it is fully engaged in first speed location; then gradually release clutch pedal. 3. Second Speed: With clutch pedal depressed, push lever up and away from steering wheel. Lever will cross through neutral position, moving away from steering wheel, and engage second speed position. Release clutch pedal. 4. Third Speed: With clutch pedal depressed, pull lever down and away from steering wheel until lever has reached the end of its travel into third speed position. 5. Reverse: With car at a standstill, depress clutch pedal, raise lever and push upwards towards steering wheel. Note: A return spring at the lower end of the control shaft automatically returns the gear shift lever to the st high speed side as soon as the lever is moved to the neutral position. Before 1 or reverse gear is engaged, it is therefore necessary to lift the lever against the spring pressure. CAUTION: Never attempt to shift into either first (low) or reverse gear while your car is in motion.

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Should it ever be necessary to start the engine by pushing or towing car, depress clutch pedal and turn key starter to ON position. Place gearshift lever in neutral until car speed reaches 15 m.p.h. When vehicle reaches this speed move shift lever to THIRD position and slowly release clutch pedal.

Maintenance

5.1 EK Holden Owner Manual Guidance The EK Holden Owner Manual offers the following advice: Routine Maintenance Every 1,000 Miles TRANSMISSION SYNCHROMESH: Check oil level. If necessary to top-up, use S.A.E. 90 Straight-run Mineral Gear Oil. This should be done with the unit at operating temperature, at which time the lubricant should be level with bottom of the filler plug hole. If the lubricant level is checked with the unit cold, it should be inch below the filler plug hole. GEAR SHIFT: The gear shift lower lever sliding surfaces at the lower end of the steering column should be wiped clean every 1000 miles and a coating of graphite grease applied. At the same time, a small amount of wheel bearing grease should be applied to the selector lever pivot pin. The remainder of the gear shift control linkage is lubricated at assembly and requires further lubrication only when the parts are disassembled. Every 10,000 Miles Gearbox (Synchro-mesh Transmission): The only maintenance required from the owner is that of ensuring that the gearbox is lubricated in accordance with the directions on the lubrication chart accompanying this book. When topping up, use S.A.E 90 Straight-run Mineral Gear Oil. While seasonal changes of the lubricant are not required, it is recommended that the gear box be drained and refilled with S.A.E 90 Straight-run Mineral Gear Oil approximately every 10,000 miles.

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Item 16

Location Transmission (Syncro-mesh)

Mileage 1,000 miles 10,000 miles

No. of Points One point.

Lubricant Details Check level. Top up with S.A.E 90 Straight-run mineral gear oil. Drain when hot and refill with S.A.E 90 Straight-run mineral gear oil.

Maintenance Schedule The chart below offers maintenance recommendations on the basis of what testing and experience have shown to be average car owner needs. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 Mileage Interval in 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5 Thousands Check Transmission Lubricant Check Brake and Clutch Master Cyl. Fluid Level CAPACITIES Transmission Synchro-mesh Refill

1.66 Pints

5.2 Alternative Lubricants The following are alternative lubricants for the grey motor crashbox: Item Original S.A.E 90 Straightrun mineral gear oil Volume Shell Caltex Valvoline Castrol Castrol Edge Sport 25W-50 or Castrol Edge 25W-50 BP

Transmission

1.66 Pints (943mL)

Spirax S2A80W90

Caltex Torque Fluid 454

Premium Mono 50

Hypogear 80W90

Gear shift lower lever sliding surfaces

Graphite grease

Smear

Grease 904 Wheel Bearing Grease, Valplex M or EP or Optimum Choice Grease

Selector lever pivot pin

Wheel bearing grease

Smear

Delo Grease EP2

EPL2 (NLGI 2)

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6 Assembly Diagrams The following assembly diagrams relate to early Holden manual three-speed gearboxes. Please note: I have taken each of the diagrams from the respective model Workshop Manual. I have included the later EJ, EH, HD and HR three-speed crashboxes here mainly to demonstrate the differences between them and the FX-EK crashboxes. The parts are very different, although the internal operation is very similar. Whilst the pictures and numbering vary slighty in the FX-EK diagrams, the construction is identical with the exception of those issues highlighted in Section 3 above.

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6.1 FX Holden
N. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 DESCRIPTION Front propeller shaft housing seal Front propeller shaft yoke bushing assembly Front propeller shaft housing Front propeller shaft housing gasket 5 5 Hexagonal head bolt ( /16-18x), spring lock washer /16 Breather screw Transmission and clutch case assembly Oil filler plug Main transmission shaft Roller bearing Clutch gear N. 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 DESCRIPTION Single row ball bearing assembly Main shaft thrust washer Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Syncro cone retaining ring Synchro cone energizing spring Synchro friction cone Second and third speed clutch Selector shaft retainer gasket Selector shaft retainer 9 1 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16, hexagonal head bolt -20x1 /8, spring lock washer Selector shaft seal Selector shaft dust seal Shifter lever 3 3 Spring lock washer /8 medium, hexagonal nut /8-24 Selector lever shaft assembly Special flat washer Selector lever shaft seal Selector lever shaft spring washer Selector shaft control lever Spring lock washer medium, light hexagonal nut -28 9 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16, spring lock washer medium Copper and asbestos gasket , drain plug -16 Transmission cover Transmission cover gasket Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washer Roller bearing washer Roller bearing (38) Counter gear Counter gear shaft Reverse idler gear bushing Reverse idler gear assembly Reverse idler shaft lock pin Reverse idler shaft

12 Clutch gear retainer gasket 47 13 Clutch gear retainer 48 5 7 5 14 Hexagonal head bolt ( /16-18x /8), spring lock washer /16 49 15 Single row bearing assembly 50 16 Clutch gear oil slinger 51 17 Clutch gear bearing lock ring 52 18 Set screw 53 19 First and reverse shifter lever 54 20 Second and third shifter lever 55 21 Transmission selector shaft 56 22 First and reverse shifter shaft 57 23 Special flat washer, Special hexagonal recess head screw 58 24 Shifter shaft lock ball spring 59 5 25 Shifter shaft lock ball ( /16 diameter) 60 26 Second and third speed shifter shaft 61 27 First and reverse shifter yoke 62 28 Second and third speed shifter yoke 63 29 Set screw 64 30 Expansion plug 65 31 Main shaft lock ring 66 32 Speedometer drive gear 67 3 33 Transmission main shaft ball ( /16). 68 34 Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly 69 35 Mainshaft bearing lock ring Note: Neither the FX nor FJ Workshop Manuals show the gearbox selector shaft as having an expansion plug (welsh plug) on the passenger side of the box. This is incorrect all grey motor crashboxes have a welsh plug in this location. The typo was fixed in FE Holden and later Workshop Manuals.

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6.2 FJ Holden
N. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 DESCRIPTION Front propeller shaft housing seal Front propeller shaft yoke bushing assembly Front propeller shaft housing Front propeller shaft housing gasket 5 5 Spring lock washer /16. Hexagonal head bolt /16-18x Breather screw Clutch and transmission case assembly Oil filler plug Transmission main shaft Roller bearing Clutch gear N. 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 DESCRIPTION Single row ball bearing assembly Main shaft thrust washer Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Synchro cone retaining ring Synchro cone energizing spring Synchro friction cone Second and third speed clutch assembly Selector shaft retainer gasket Selector shaft retainer 9 1 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16. Hexagonal head bolt -20x1 /8. Spring lock washer . Selector shaft seal Selector shaft dust shield Selector lever 3 3 Spring lock washer /8 medium. Hexagonal nut /8-24. Selector lever shaft assembly Selector lever shaft seal Special flat washer Selector lever shaft spring washer Selector shaft control lever Spring lock washer medium. Light hexagonal nut -28. 9 Spring lock washer medium. Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16. Copper and asbestos gasket . Drain plug -16 Transmission cover Transmission cover gasket Countershaft and reverse gear thrust washer Roller bearing washer Roller bearing Counter gear Counter gear shaft Reverse idler gear bushing Reverse idler gear assembly Reverse idler shaft lock pin Reverse idler shaft

12 Clutch gear retainer gasket 47 13 Clutch gear retainer 48 5 5 7 14 Spring lock washer /16. Hexagonal head bolt /16-18x /8 49 15 Single row ball bearing assembly 50 16 Clutch gear oil slinger 51 17 Clutch gear bearing lock ring 52 18 Set screw 53 19 First and reverse shifter lever 54 20 Second and third shifter lever 55 21 Selector shaft 56 22 First and reverse shifter shaft 57 23 Special flat washer. Special hexagonal recess head screw. 58 24 Shifter shaft lock ball spring 59 5 25 Shifter shaft lock ball ( /16 diameter) 60 26 Second and third speed shifter shaft 61 27 First and reverse shifter yoke 62 28 Second and third speed shifter yoke 63 29 Set screw 64 30 Expansion plug 65 31 Main shaft lock ring 66 32 Speedometer drive gear 67 3 33 Main shaft ball ( /16 diameter) 68 34 Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly 69 35 Main shaft bearing lock ring Note: Neither the FX nor FJ Workshop Manuals show the gearbox selector shaft as having an expansion plug (welsh plug) on the passenger side of the box. This is incorrect all grey motor crashboxes have a welsh plug in this location. The typo was fixed in FE Holden and later Workshop Manuals.

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6.3 FE/FC Holden N. DESCRIPTION 1 Front propeller shaft housing seal 2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 3 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 4 Clutch and transmission case assembly 5 Clutch gear retainer gasket 6 Clutch gear retainer 7 Expansion plug 8 Selector shaft 9 First and reverse speed shifter shaft 10 First and reverse shifter lever 11 Second and third shifter lever 12 Set screw 5 13 Shifter shaft lock ball ( /16 diameter) 14 Shifter shaft lock ball spring 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Special flat washer Special hexagonal recess head screw First and reverse shifter yoke Second and third shifter yoke 5 7 5 Hexagonal head bolt ( /16-18x /8), spring lock washer /16 Transmission main shaft Breather screw 3 Main shaft ball ( /16 diameter) Oil filler plug Roller bearing Clutch gear 5 1 5 Hexagonal head bolt ( /16-18x /8), spring lock washer /16 Single row ball bearing assembly Clutch gear oil slinger Clutch gear bearing lock ring Selector shaft retainer gasket Selector shaft retainer Second and third speed shifter shaft Main shaft lock ring Speedometer drive gear

N. 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67

DESCRIPTION Mainshaft bearing lock ring Single row ball bearing assembly Main shaft thrust washer Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Syncro cone retaining ring Synchro cone energizing spring Synchro friction cone Second and third speed clutch assembly Selector shaft seal Selector shaft dust seal Selector lever 3 3 Spring lock washer /8 medium, hexagonal nut /8-24 9 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16, hexagonal head bolt 1 20x1 /8, spring lock washer Selector lever shaft assembly Selector lever shaft seal Special flat washer Selector lever shaft spring washer Selector shaft control lever Spring lock washer medium, light hexagonal nut -28 Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly Copper and asbestos gasket , drain plug -16 9 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16, spring lock washer Transmission cover Transmission cover gasket Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washer Roller bearing washer Roller bearing Counter gear Counter gear shaft Reverse idler gear assembly Reverse idler shaft lock pin Reverse idler shaft

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6.4 FB Holden N. DESCRIPTION 1 Front propeller shaft housing seal 2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 3 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 4 Clutch and transmission case assembly 5 Clutch gear retainer gasket 6 Clutch gear retainer 7 Expansion plug 8 Selector shaft 9 First and reverse speed shifter shaft 10 First and reverse shifter lever 11 Second and third shifter lever 12 Set screw 5 13 Shifter shaft lock ball ( /16 diameter) 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Shifter shaft lock ball spring Special flat washer Special hexagonal recess head screw First and reverse shifter yoke Second and third shifter yoke 5 7 5 Hexagonal head bolt ( /16-18x /8), spring lock washer /16 Transmission main shaft Breather screw 3 Main shaft ball ( /16 diameter) Oil filler plug Roller bearing Clutch gear 5 1 5 Hexagonal head bolt ( /16-18x /8), spring lock washer /16 Single row ball bearing assembly Clutch gear oil slinger Clutch gear bearing lock ring Selector shaft retainer gasket Selector shaft retainer Second and third speed shifter shaft Main shaft lock ring Speedometer drive gear

N. 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67

DESCRIPTION Mainshaft bearing lock ring Double row ball bearing assembly Main shaft thrust washer Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Syncro cone retaining ring Synchro cone energizing spring Synchro friction cone Second and third speed clutch assembly Selector shaft seal Selector shaft dust seal Shifter lever 3 Spring lock washer /8 medium (not illustrated), hexagonal 3 nut /8-24 9 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16, hexagonal head bolt 1 20x1 /8, spring lock washer Selector lever shaft assembly Selector lever shaft seal Special flat washer Selector lever shaft spring washer Selector shaft control lever Spring lock washer medium, light hexagonal nut -28 Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly Copper and asbestos gasket. Drain plug 9 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16, spring lock washer Transmission cover Transmission cover gasket Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washer Roller bearing washer Roller bearing Counter gear Counter gear shaft Reverse idler gear assembly Reverse idler shaft lock pin Reverse idler shaft

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6.5 EK Holden N. DESCRIPTION 1 Front propeller shaft housing seal 2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 3 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 4 Clutch and transmission case assembly 5 Clutch gear retainer gasket 6 Clutch gear retainer 7 Expansion plug 8 First and reverse speed shifter shaft 9 Expansion plug 10 Selector shaft assembly 11 First and reverse shifter lever 12 Second and third shifter lever 5 13 Shifter shaft lock ball ( /16 diameter) 14 Shifter shaft lock ball spring 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Special flat washer Special hexagonal recess head screw First and reverse shifter yoke Second and third shifter yoke 5 7 5 Hexagonal head bolt ( /16-18x /8), spring lock washer /16 Transmission main shaft Breather screw 3 Main shaft ball ( /16 diameter) Oil filler plug Roller bearing Clutch gear 5 1 5 Hexagonal head bolt ( /16-18x /8), spring lock washer /16 Single row ball bearing assembly Clutch gear oil slinger Clutch gear bearing lock ring Selector shaft retainer gasket Selector shaft retainer Second and third speed shifter shaft Main shaft lock ring Speedometer drive gear

N. 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67

DESCRIPTION Mainshaft bearing lock ring Double row ball bearing assembly Main shaft thrust washer Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Syncro cone retaining ring Synchro cone energizing spring Synchro friction cone Second and third speed clutch assembly Selector shaft seal Selector shaft dust seal Shifter lever 3 3 Spring lock washer /8 medium, hexagonal nut /8-24 9 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16, hexagonal head bolt 1 20x1 /8, spring lock washer Selector lever shaft assembly Selector lever shaft seal Special flat washer Selector lever shaft spring washer Selector shaft control lever Spring lock washer medium, light hexagonal nut -28 Speedometer driven gear fitting assembly Copper and asbestos gasket , drain plug -16 9 Hexagonal head bolt -20x /16, spring lock washer Transmission cover Transmission cover gasket Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washer Roller bearing washer Roller bearing Counter gear Counter gear shaft Reverse idler gear assembly Reverse idler shaft lock pin Reverse idler shaft

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6.6 EJ Holden N. DESCRIPTION 1 Front propeller shaft housing seal 2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 3 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 4 Transmission case assembly 5 Transmission case gasket 3 6 Spring lock washer /8 (four) 3 3 7 Hexagonal head bolt /8-16x1 /8 (four) 8 Spring washer 9 Clutch gear bearing retaining screw 5 10 Hexagonal bolt /16-18x1 5 11 Special washer /16 12 Special gasket 13 Oil filler plug 14 Special gasket 15 Drain plug 16 Main shaft lock ring 17 Internal tooth lock washer (three) 5 18 Hexagonal bolt /16-18x2 5 7 19 Hexagonal screw /16-18x /8 (three) 3 1 20 O ring /8x /16 (four) 21 Second and third shift yoke shaft 22 Second and third shift yoke 23 Transmission main shaft 24 Roller bearing 25 Clutch gear 26 Single row ball bearing assembly 27 Clutch gear bearing retainer 28 First and reverse shaft 29 Detent spring (two) 30 Shifter yokes lock ball (two) 31 First and reverse shift yoke 32 Speedometer drive gear

N. 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64

DESCRIPTION Single row ball bearing assembly Main shaft thrust washer Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Synchro cone retaining ring Synchro cone energizing spring Synchro friction cone Second and third speed clutch assembly Special nut Spring lock washer Selector external lever Special spring washer Selector lever assembly Shift yoke shaft lock pin Transmission cover assembly Retaining plug Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washer Roller bearing washer Roller bearing Counter gear Shift external lever Shifter crank assembly Lever shift internal Hexagonal head screw -20x1 Hexagonal head screw -20x (seven) Internal tooth lock washer (nine) Transmission cover gasket Counter gear shaft 3 Counter gear shaft ball /16 diameter Reverse idler gear assembly Reverse idler shaft lock pin Reverse idler shaft

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6.7 EH Holden

A separate Workshop manual and associated assembly drawing was not issued for the EH Holden. However, from the EH Holden Workshop Manual supplement and the MasterParts 20 Years Catalogue, the following changes are evident:

The design of the EJ Holden front propeller shaft housing was changed to incorporate bolt bosses for mounting the transmission to the underbody crossmember. In addition, the mounting face was extended to cover the transmission drain hole, and the drain plug increased in length to also serve as an attachment bolt. The image to the left shows the EJ Holden housing, whilst the EH Holden housing is shown to the right.

The speedometer driving gear fitted to manual and Hydramatic transmissions was changed to eight teeth (the EJ Holden gear has seven). The number of teeth on the driven gear was varied for EH Hydramatic transmissions (23 teeth, pink or red colour) was different to that of the EH Holden manual transmissions (22 teeth, light or dark blue colour). The casing assembly, side cover, first and reverse shifter yoke, first and reverse speed shaft, first and reverse sliding gear, counter gear, counter shaft bearings and thrust washers, front propeller shaft housing assembly and gasket were changed during the EH Holden run (at engine number 81520). A main shaft sealed rear bearing became available during the EH Holden run.

The following changes were noted for the S4 EH Holden: The bellhousing is larger with wider spacing of the bolt holes between the bellhousing and transmission case. The gear shifter crank assembly, the shifter and selector rods were redesigned to provide adequate operating clearance from the bellhousing. The transmission serial numbers have an S4 suffix. A steel backed babbit lined bush is installed in the front propeller housing. The 23 tooth speedometer driven gear (pink or red) was utilized with the 3.55:1 rear axle ratio.

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6.8 HD Holden N. DESCRIPTION 1 Front propeller shaft housing seal 2 Front propeller shaft housing assembly 3 Front propeller shaft housing gasket 4 Transmission case assembly 5 Transmission case gasket 3 6 Spring lock washer /8 (four) 3 3 7 Hexagonal head bolt /8-16x1 /8 (four) 8 Spring washer 9 Clutch gear bearing retaining screw 5 10 Hexagonal bolt /16-18x1 5 11 Special washer /16 12 Special gasket 13 Oil filler plug 14 Main shaft lock ring 5 15 Special washer /16 16 Internal tooth lock washer (three) 17 Special gasket 5 18 Hexagonal bolt /16-18x2 3 19 Hexagonal screw /8-16x1 (three) 20 Drain plug 3 1 21 O ring /8x /16 (four) 22 Second and third shift yoke shaft 23 Second and third shift yoke 24 Transmission main shaft 25 Roller bearing 26 Clutch gear 27 Single row ball bearing assembly 28 Clutch gear bearing retainer 29 First and reverse shaft 30 Detent spring (two) 31 Shifter yokes lock ball (two) 32 First and reverse shift yoke

N. 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64

DESCRIPTION Speedometer drive gear Single row ball bearing assembly Main shaft thrust washer Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Synchro cone retaining ring Synchro cone energizing spring Synchro friction cone Second and third speed clutch assembly Special nut Spring lock washer Selector external lever Special spring washer Selector lever assembly Shift yoke shaft lock pin Transmission cover assembly Retaining plug Counter shaft thrust washer Roller bearing Counter gear Shift external lever Shifter crank assembly Lever shift external Hexagonal head screw -20x1 (two) Hexagonal head screw -20x (seven) Transmission cover gasket Counter gear shaft 3 Counter gear shaft ball /16 diameter Reverse idler gear assembly Reverse idler shaft lock pin Reverse idler shaft Reverse idler thrust washer

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6.9 HR Holden N. DESCRIPTION 1 Transmission rear extension seal 2 Transmission rear extension assembly 3 Transmission rear extension gasket 4 Transmission case assembly 5 Transmission case gasket 3 6 Spring lock washer /8 (four) 3 3 7 Hexagonal head bolt /8-16x1 /8 (four) 8 Spring washer 9 Clutch gear bearing retaining screw 5 10 Hexagonal bolt /16-18x1 5 11 Special /16 washer 12 Special gasket 13 Oil filler plug 14 Main shaft lock ring 5 15 Special /16 washer 16 Internal tooth lock washer (three) 17 Special gasket 5 18 Hexagonal bolt /16-18x2 3 19 Hexagonal screw /8-16x1 (three) 20 Drain plug 3 1 21 O-ring /8x /16 22 Retainer plate 23 Second and third shift yoke shaft 24 Transmission main shaft 25 Roller bearing 26 Clutch gear 27 Single row ball bearing assembly 28 Clutch gear bearing retainer 29 First and reverse shaft 30 Detent spring (two) 31 Shifter yokes detent ball (two) 32 First and reverse shift yoke

N. 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64

DESCRIPTION Speedometer drive gear Single row ball bearing assembly Main shaft thrust washer Main shaft second speed gear First and reverse sliding gear Synchro cone retaining ring Synchro cone energizing spring Synchro friction cone Second and third speed clutch assembly Special nut Spring lock washer Selector external lever Special spring washer Selector lever assembly Shift yoke shaft lock pin Transmission cover assembly Retaining plug Counter shaft thrust washer Roller bearing Counter gear Shift external lever Shifter crank assembly Shift external lever Hexagonal head screw -20x1 (two) Hexagonal head screw -20x (seven) Transmission cover gasket Counter gear shaft 3 Counter gear shaft ball /16 diameter Reverse idler gear assembly Reverse idler shaft lock pin Reverse idler shaft Reverse idler thrust washer

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7 Disassembly and Overhaul Process The following process describes the process of removal, disassembly and overhaul for a crashbox.

7.1 Kit Contents and Pre-disassembly

A number of kits are available for overhaul of crashboxes. I will compare the following kits below:
Manufacturer/Supplier NASCO CBC Bearings Repair kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual (Replacement kit for major gearbox overhaul for models FX, FJ, FC, FB, EK) Rare Spares Status Engineering

Item

Repair kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual)

Kit gearbox overhaul 3 speed 48 FJ FE FC FB EK

GMH 48/215 EK 3 speed).

Part Number

7427800

7427800 (H1000STD)

7430864 (note that this is the same part number as the genuine GMH Overhaul kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC)

GK2001

Cost Note: Prices are as at 2012 and are illustrative only. Clutch gear and mainshaft ball bearings and lock rings Counter shaft or reverse gear thrust washers Counter gear shaft Synchro cone energising springs Main shaft lock rings Clutch gear bearing lock ring Expansion plugs Clutch gear pilot and counter shaft roller bearings Selector shaft

$218.90

$169.00

Yes

No Yes (see notes on NASCO kit below)

Yes (2 off) Yes Yes (2 off) Yes (2 off) Yes

No

No No No No

Yes (4 off). Note the Rare Spares are now including 5 plugs per kit. Yes Yes

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retainer gasket Clutch gear retainer gasket Front propeller shaft housing gasket Front propeller shaft housing seal Selector shaft seal Reverse idler shaft lock pin Transmission cover gasket Selector lever shaft seal Main shaft ball 3 ( /16 diameter) Synchro cone retaining ring Two O-rings (redundant) Main shaft bearing lock ring

Yes (see notes on NASCO kit below) Yes Yes (see notes on NASCO kit below) Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes (2 off) No Yes

Yes

Yes

No

No No

Yes

Yes No supplied ring does not fit.

7.1.1

NASCO kit

I offer the following notes based on a NOS kit that I acquired. The kit had been opened prior to me acquiring it.

The kit contains the following items:

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a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) i) j) k) l) m) n) o)

Synchro cone energising springs (two off). Main shaft lock rings (two off) Expansion plug (four off) 3 Roller bearings, /16 diameter x 0.522 long (thirteen off). 1 Roller bearings, /8 diameter x 0.610 long (twentyeight off). Selector shaft retainer gasket Front propeller shaft housing gasket Selector shaft seal Reverse idler shaft lock pin Transmission cover gasket Selector lever shaft seal 3 Main shaft ball ( /16 diameter) Synchro cone retaining ring (two off) Clutch gear bearing lock ring Mainshaft bearing lock ring

Note that the counter gear shaft, clutch gear retainer gasket, counter gear shaft roller bearings (twelve missing), front propeller shaft housing seal and ball bearings are conscious by their absence I believe they have been removed from this kit. Note also that the following sub-assemblies are numbered: Selector shaft retainer gasket is marked GMH 7400206

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Selector shaft dust seal is marked Holden 1 7403035 Front propeller shaft housing gasket is marked GMH 7400401 Transmission cover gasket is marked 7400197 Bearings packet marked 7427676 Bearings packet marked 7427678

7.1.2

CBC Bearings kit

I offer the following notes based on a NOS kit that I acquired. The kit had been opened prior to me purchasing it, and I believe that one of the ball bearings (an NTN Toyo 6205NS bearing) had been removed the kit appears otherwise complete.

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The

kit

contains

the

following

items:

a) Ball bearing marked NTN Toyo Bearing Co. LTD Japan 6206NR 6206N Japan QU. ID 30mm, OD 62mm, 16mm thick, open face b) Counter shaft and reverse gear thrust washers (two off) c) Counter gear shaft, 0.650 diameter x 6.5 long. d) Synchro cone energising springs (two off). e) Main shaft lock rings (two off) f) Expansion plug (four off) 3 g) Roller bearings, /16 diameter x 0.522 long (thirteen off). 1 h) Roller bearings, /8 diameter x 0.610 long (forty off). i) Selector shaft retainer gasket j) Clutch gear retainer gasket k) Front propeller shaft housing gasket l) Front propeller shaft housing seal m) Selector shaft seal n) Reverse idler shaft lock pin o) Transmission cover gasket p) Selector lever shaft seal 3 q) Main shaft ball ( /16 diameter) r) Synchro cone retaining ring (two off) s) Clutch gear bearing lock ring

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t)

Mainshaft bearing lock ring

7.1.3 Rare Spares kit The kit described below is the over the counter kit available from Rare Spares (part number Kit gearbox overhaul 3 speed 48 FJ FE FC FB EK 7430864). The kit contains the following items:

a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) i) j)

Ball bearing marked UBC-AUS 6206RS 6206RSNR. ID 30mm, OD 62mm, 16mm thick, rubber shielded. Ball bearing marked 6205RS, ID 25mm, OD 52mm, 15mm thick, rubber shielded. Counter gear shaft, 0.650 diameter x 6.5 long. Synchro cone energising springs (two off). Main shaft lock rings (two off) Expansion plug (four off newer kits now come with five plugs). 3 33 Roller bearings, /16 diameter x /64 long (thirteen off). 1 Roller bearings, /8 diameter x 0.600 long (forty off). Selector shaft retainer gasket Clutch gear retainer gasket

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k) Front propeller shaft housing gasket l) Front propeller shaft housing seal (a NAK Australia part number E137.206.25 seal). m) Selector shaft seal marked NAK TC 0.625 1.000 0.250 6 (a NAK Australia part number E062.100.25 seal) n) Reverse idler shaft lock pin o) Transmission cover gasket p) Selector lever shaft seal

7.1.4 Status Engineering The kit described below is the over the counter kit available from Status Engineering (part number GK2001 GMH 48/215 EK 3 speed). The kit contains the following items:

a) b) c) d) e) f)

Ball bearing marked Nachi Japan 247 2816206NSE. ID 30mm, OD 62mm, 16mm thick, rubber shielded. Ball bearing marked Nachi Japan 960 043 6205NSE C3. ID 25mm, OD 52mm, 15mm thick, rubber shielded. Counter gear shaft, 0.650 diameter x 6.5 long. 3 33 Roller bearings, /16 diameter x /64 long (fourteen off). 1 Roller bearings, /8 diameter x 0.612 long (fortythree off). Selector shaft retainer gasket

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g) h) i) j) k) l) m) n)

Clutch gear retainer gasket Front propeller shaft housing gasket Front propeller shaft housing seal marked NOK 2 52.37 16.8 TC 34.92. Selector shaft seal marked TTO 8.570 TBR 10.0 62 25 Transmission cover gasket Two o-rings Selector lever shaft seal 3 Mainshaft ball, /16 diameter

7.1.5 Kit Comparison The CBC Bearings and NASCO kits are no longer available, unless you manage to score a NOS kit from eBay or swap meets. If this is the case, some care is warranted in inspecting the bearings to ensure that they have not pitted during storage (the little paper packets that they were originally contained in do not keep moisture out for half a century). This leaves either the Status Engineering or Rare Spares kits as options for most rebuilds. The Status Engineering kits are a little cheaper than the Rare Spares kit (at least at the time of writing this document). However, the Status Engineering kit does not have all the components of the Rare Spares kit. Whilst some items do not matter so much (for example the lock rings can normally be reused), other items (for example the synchro springs and reverse idler lock pin) are rather handy to replace. The most significant items not included in the Status Engineering kit are the expansion plugs. The old plugs cannot be reliably reused. The absence of these plugs means that the reverse idler shaft and shifter shafts cannot be removed, which holds a lot of other parts inside the gearbox. This can make it rather difficult to replace bearings, not to mention cleaning all the sludge out of the casing. It is strongly reccomended that if the Status Engineering kits are used, then the expansion plugs (and potentially synchro springs) are purchased separately. The Rare Spares kit, whilst holding more components, is not without fault. The kit used to supply only four of the five expansion plugs required, an issue that Rares have recognised and fixed (old kits in cardboard boxes may still have four plugs, the newer kits in blister packs have five). Equally, the gasket fit on the Rares kit is in some cases poor, requiring rework to make them useable (for example the clutch gear retainer currently blocks half the oil return hole). Rares has been notified of these issues, and again has committed to addressing them in future kits. Additionally, Status are able to supply refaced synchro cones for the grey motor crashbox. This is a unique service, and would be very useful for worn cones.

7.2 Special Tools There are quite a few special tools specified in the early Holden Workshop manuals for overhauling grey motor crashboxes. Without a doubt they make the job easier. There is also no doubt that finding the genuine tools is like finding rocking horse poo. Some of the tools can be replaced with common workshop tools, albeit perhaps not in the manner that the tool maker originally intended (think of it as Harvs School of Tool Abuse). Listed below are the tools identified in the Workshop manuals, and some alternatives. The rear bearing lock ring must be expanded to allow the bearing to be tapped out of the casing. This can be

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done with a broad-bladed screwdriver, but a wedge-shaped piece of metal makes the job easier. The o original factory tool (tool 7A4) is simply a flat bit of 3.3mm steel with a 36 angle cut in the end. Only the tip (about the first ) of the tool is used the rest is just a glorified handle. The tool can be readily cut from a piece of flat plate (the template to the right gives a guide). If you are making the press-plate below, use the same 1.3mm steel sheet to make the 7A4 tool.

The clutch gear ball bearing is a press-fit onto the clutch gear. To remove it, an arbor press is suggested by the Workshop Manuals. Whilst it is possible to take the clutch gear to your local workshop and have them press the bearing off, it is just as easy to drive it off yourself. To do so, a press plate is required to slip in between the clutch bear and bearing. A 6x4 scrap of 1.3mm sheet steel with a 1 slot cut into it does the job nicely see image to the right. The curve at the end of the slot fits nicely around the clutch gear, and was marked by tracing around a socket. Removing the front propeller shaft housing oil seal from front propeller shaft housing (also known as pulling the oil seal out of the rear of the extension housing) can be a challenge. The seal is an interference fit, and with half a century of vibration, heat, dirt and other abuse, they really dont like to fall out. It is not very practicable to drive them out by using a drift (or screwdriver see photo below left) from the opposite end. This is because there is a bronze bushing behind the seal, and the angle of the screwdriver prevents you from getting into the small gap between seal and bushing. A bit of care is also required to ensure that the bushing is not scored whilst driving. You could try levering the seal out with a screwdriver, though this is a long and laborious task. There is also a big risk that when levering on the alloy extension housing lip that you crack a chunk out of the lip (see red arrows in diagram below no cracks, but not for lack of trying). The tool which makes this task easy is the genuine early Holden hubcap remover (see image to the right). The hubcap remover is

the right length to slide inside the extension housing, and the claw will engage the small gap between seal and bushing. Supporting the extension housing in a vice, and then gently tapping around the edges of the seal will drive it out squarely see photo below right, which has the hubcap tool inside the extension. There are probably a few NASCO tool aficionados who have just sworn at me, but I have to admit the hubcap remover makes a very good job of it. For those who want to make their own, a piece of steel rod 10 long with a flattened claw 1 deep will do the trick (no need to make the tool as thick as the 5 original with a /8 wide claw).

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There is a genuine tool to do the job (part 7A9), and a similar tool made by Litchfield (see image to the right). The tools work by screwing into the rear of the seal, and then using a bolt to push off the mainshaft and remove the seal. These tools are no longer made, and at the time of writing this document were fetching around $150 each on eBay (!).

An additional tool which is handy is a main shaft installer. The original tool (7A5) is rare, but can be 3 manufactured from a length of /8 threaded rod and some water pipe. Note that the rod in the picture 3 3 below has a 1 length of /8 thread at one end and a much larger thread for most of the rod. The /8 thread is necessary to screw into the mainshaft, but the rest of the rod (and the nut) can be any thread at 3 all (easiest to make the whole lot out of /8 threaded rod). The length of water pipe needs to have a 63 3 minimum internal diameter of /64 minimum, with the one shown below being 1 /64.

Note that it is possible not to use this tool, and to just (gently!) tap the mainshaft through the rear bearing. This is an interference fit, and it too much force is used, you will blow out the cast iron casing its surprising how little force is needed to do this.

Once the tailshaft is removed from the rear of the gearbox, it will start to leak oil. Gearbox oil is stinky, and is rather unpleasant to take an impromptu bath in. A genuine stopper was available (tool 7A1-1 see images to the right), though are fairly rare. SuperCheap and other retailers sell a universal gearbox stopper to block the hole (see left hand image to the right), though sadly it is not the correct size to fit a

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grey or red motor gearbox (it does however fit the Aussie 3-speed). One handy tool is a spare tailshaft yoke (see middle image). The tailshaft yoke will allow you to block the end of the gearbox extension, and prevent the oil from draining out. This can be handy for storing a gearbox full of oil, or for filling the gearbox after overhaul (fill the gearbox whilst it is still out of the vehicle with the spare yoke installed, fit the gearbox then remove the yoke). Another option is to buy a 32mm multi-fit hollow-type kitchen sink plug from Woolworths, and punch out the centre (see right hand image above). Whilst not a perfect fit around the main shaft splines, it does a surprisingly good job. Perhaps the easiest option is to drain the gearbox before removing it, and refill it only once installed.
.

There are quite a few snap rings and circlips inside the gearbox holding various shafts and bearings in place. Most people are familiar with circlips, which have eyes at each end (like the left hand ring in the image to the right), and can be pulled out with circlip pliers (left most pliers in the photo below. Circlip pliers are readily available from places like Repco or SuperCheap. Snap rings do not have eyes at the end of them (see right hand ring), which means that circlip pliers do not necessarily get a good grip. Whilst it is possible to pull apart a crashbox with circlip pliers, a pair of snapring pliers (right hand pliers in the photo below) does a far better job. Snapring pliers are available from engineering houses (places like Blackwoods). In the overhaul photos below, I have used a mixture of both types of pliers.

When loading the roller bearings into the counter gear, some grease is used to glue the rollers in place. The workshop manuals recommend the 7A2 loading tool (a piece of steel bar) to help the process. I find the factory tool is too small in diameter, and does more bad than good. A better way to do this is to reuse the old counter gear shaft it is the perfect diameter, and costs nothing.

7.3 Removing the Gearbox from the Vehicle 1. Roll back the floor mat or carpet from the front floor to give access to the floor cover. Undo phillips head bolts attaching the floor cover (transmission hump) to the floor pan and remove cover. 2. As the transmission is removed, the engine will tilt. To prevent anything hanging up, disconnect battery earth strap, the starter motor cables and wires and the throttle rod from the carburettor. 3. Remove the starter motor. 4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (as the motor tilts, it will try to tear exhaust from its hangers). 5. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands.

the the the

the

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6.

7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

Disconnect the gearshift selector and control rods from the transmission. Remove the handbrake intermediate lever support bracket attaching bolts, nuts and washers and allow the assembly to hang out of the way. Disconnect the exhaust pipe support bracket and speedometer cable drive from the transmission. If you dont have a stopper for the gearbox extension housing (see Special Tools above), drain the oil from the gearbox. Disconnect the propeller shaft at the rear universal joint flange and remove propeller shaft from front propeller shaft housing. Fit the stopper now if you have one. Remove the rear mounting lower attaching bolts, nuts, spring washers and lock plates. Place a floor jack under the transmission pan, using a block of wood to spread the load and prevent creasing of the pan. Gently take the weight of the transmission. Remove the rear mountings and clutch actuating cylinder. Place the actuating cylinder to one side out of the way. Remove flywheel dust cover plate bolts and remove cover plate. Remove the transmission case mounting bolts and lower the engine and transmission assembly on the jack. Draw the transmission assembly away from the dowel pins in the rear of the crankcase, then draw the transmission assembly away from the engine. Keep the assembly supported so that it will not tilt and damage the clutch plate.

7.4 Disassembly

1.

Place the transmission on a workbench sitting right-way-up. Disconnect the clutch fork seal plate spring by levering the end of the spring out with a pair of pliers, then remove the spring by sliding along the clutch fork.

2.

Remove the seal and guide plates from the casing by levering them out gently with a screwdriver and sliding along the clutch fork.

3.

Use your fingers to pull the clutch throwout bearing assembly forwards, which should pop out the clutch fork from the clutch fork ball. Remove the clutch throwout bearing assembly and clutch fork from the casing.

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4.

Undo and remove the two slot-head screws in the top of the casing. Remove the bellhousing vent cover.

5.

Undo and remove the three AF clutch gear retainer bolts from the front end of the casing. Remove the clutch gear retainer and gasket. Do not remove the clutch gear at this stage.

6.

Undo the five AF bolts from the rear of the housing. Remove the front propeller shaft housing.

7.

Using a hubcap remover tool, and supporting the front propeller shaft housing in a vice, tap out the oil seal (see notes in Special Tools above). And no, the grease and dirt didnt magically fall off the housing in the photo I just got sick of working in the crap.

8.

Roll the transmission onto its side and remove the eleven 7 transmission cover /16AF bolts. Remove the transmission cover, sump plug and gaskets.

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9.

Using a drift and hammer, drive out the counter gear shaft from the rear of the casing to the front (this is a tapered fit the shaft will not drive out from the front to the rear). Remove the counter gear assembly, roller bearings and thrust washers from the casing. Note that there should also be a steel ball in the end of the countergear take care to catch it as the shaft is tapped out.

10. Working from inside the casing through the open bottom, drive out the reverse idler shaft expanding (welsh) plugs with a drift and hammer (you will not get a straight hit on the plugs but it is not seated too hard). Note that there is one plug in the front of the case and one plug in the rear.

11. Use a drift and hammer to gently tap the reverse idler shaft lock pin inwards until it is just lodged in the shaft.

12. Use a drift and hammer and working through the front of the casing, remove the reverse idler shaft through the rear of the transmission case. Note that removal by tapping from the rear to the front will allow the lock pin to lodge between the gear bushings not a good thing.

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13. Remove the reverse idler gear and thrust washers from the reverse idler shaft.

14. Roll the casing upright. Using a 5 /16 allen key, remove the two shifter shaft lock spring and ball lock screws. Pick the two springs and two balls out with a small screwdriver. It may be necessary to turn the casing over to allow the balls to drop out. Dont panic if the balls wont come out they can be pushed through later once the shifter shafts are removed. 15. Roll the casing onto its side and use a large flat-head screwdriver to undo and remove the two shifter yoke lock screws.

16. With the shifter shafts in neutral position, move the transverse nd rd selector shafts across and engage the 2 and 3 shift lever cam with the slot in the second and third speed shifter shaft. This sounds like complex instructions to do the Hokey Pokey (left leg in, left leg out). In simple terms (and using the diagram to the right), pull the shaft in the direction of the green arrow. The cam engages with the slot (see the green circle). Dont panic, you can see all this by looking in the end of the casing.

17. Rotate the transverse selector shaft towards the second gear position by turning the shifter lever anticlockwise (see the red arrow in the diagram above) continue this movement until the second and third speed

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shift lever cam on the transverse shaft clears the slot in the shift shaft. The second and third speed shifter shaft may now be drawn through the rear of the transmission case. The second and third speed selector fork will drop off fish it out of the casing. 18. Remove the three /16AF selector shaft retainer mounting bolts, and remove the retainer and shaft assembly together with the gasket.
7

19. Using a drift through the side of the casing, tap out the expansion plug that normally covers the end of the selector shaft. Even if you overhaul kit has only four plugs, I recommend taking this plug out. The rear compartment is difficult to clean out with kero, and the more access holes you can make in it the better. 20. Working through the front of the casing, pull out the clutch gear and bearing assembly by grabbing on the shaft and pulling. It may be necessary to jiggle the assembly from side to side to help it to come out. As the assembly comes out, the thirteen needle roller bearings from the main shaft pilot will drop out fish them out of the casing.

21. Remove the first and reverse speed shifter shaft through the rear of the casing. The first and reverse shift yoke will drop off fish it out of the casing.

22. Remove the speedometer driven gear from the transmission case by undoing 1 the 1 /16AF nut then drawing out the gear assembly.

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23. Remove the speedometer drive gear retaining ring with snap ring pliers (by making the ring open up). Draw the drive gear and locating ball from the main shaft. Ive got the gearbox sitting on a block of wood in the photo below right only to make the photo clearer.

24. Remove the main shaft lock ring behind the rear bearing with snap ring pliers (by making the ring open up). Note that in some gearboxes, there may not be a main shaft lock ring on this side of the speedometer drive gear, but instead there will be a steel collar loosely sitting on the shaft. Dont panic this just means that the gearbox has had double-row bearings fitted to an FX-FC Holden main drive shaft (see Section 3.2 above to explain why this is done). Remove the collar from the shaft. 25. Remove the front synchronizer cone retaining snap ring with snap ring pliers (by making the ring squeeze in). Remove the steel cone.

26. Using a pointed object (Im using a dental pick in the photo), gently prise out the synchro cone energizing spring from the synchro cone, taking care not to bend the spring. Store the cone in a plastic bag and label it as front synchoniser cone this way you will remember which end of the clutch assembly to put it in. This is important, as the steel synchro friction cones bed themselves into the brass friction surface over time, creating a matched pair.

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27. Using a soft copper or brass drift, drive the main shaft through the rear bearing to the front of the box and remove it. This allows the synchronizing clutch assembly, one shifter yoke and the remaining gears to be removed from the transmission case.

28. Expand the rear bearing lock ring with tool 7A4, or a broadbladed screwdriver. This should only need hand pressure, not a hammer. Ensure that the lock ring expands freely and that the ends showing in the D shaped hole in the casing do not bend. If you go too heavy handed and bend the ring (or snap the ends off it) then you are in a world of poo. Think die-grinder, gradual bearing removal and swearing. With the 7A4 tool or screwdriver still in place, remove the bearing by tapping the outer race towards the inside of the transmission case. A large socket 5 (about 1 /16AF) with an extension bar on it makes a perfect drift (just dont tell the Sidchrome rep I suggested it ). Ive got the gearbox sitting on a block of wood in the photo to the right only to make the photo clearer. The tapping process doesnt need much force excess force probably means the lock ring is not expanded properly. If you tap the bearing too hard (and the lock ring is still not expanded), you will crack the casting around the bearing before the lock ring gives way. This is not a happy experience.

29. Lever out the rear bearing lock ring with a pair of screwdrivers.

30. Remove the filler plug ( /16AF) from the casing.

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31. Remove the alloy breather cap by levering it off with a 9 screwdriver, then remove the breather body ( /16AF) from the transmission casing.

32. Working through the rear of the case, tap out the two selector shaft expansion plugs with a long drift. Note that these are the fourth and fifth expansion plugs to be removed. If your overhaul kit has only four plugs in it, you may wish to either leave one of these plugs in place, or buy a single welsh plug from Repco/SuperCheap/Bursons. 33. Undo the selector lever shaft 7 nut ( /16 AF). Gently prise the selector shaft control level from the selector shaft, then disassemble the selector lever shaft assembly, flat washer and seal. Note that there is no seal in the photo to the right it had crumbled to nothing. 34. Undo the shifter shaft nut ( /16 AF), then gently prise the shifter lever from the shifter shaft. Remove the dust seal and shifter shaft. Using a drift, tap out the selector shaft seal. Take care how you support the selector shaft retainer it is easy to snap the ears off the housing (see photo to the right).
9

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35. Using snap ring pliers, remove the syncro cone retaining ring from the back of the second and third speed clutch assembly. Remove the synchro friction cone.

36. Using a pointed object (Im using a dental pick in the photo), gently prise out the synchro cone energizing spring from the synchro cone, taking care not to bend the spring. Store the cone in a plastic bag and label it as second/third speed clutch this way you will remember which end of the clutch assembly to put it in (treat it as a matched pair). 37. Remove the clutch gear bearing retainer ring and oil slinger, using snap ring pliers.

38. Place the press plate over the clutch gear and against the bearing and sit the assembly in a vice. Note from the photo to the right that there is a piece of wood under the clutch gear this is used to catch the clutch gear once the bearing lets go without damaging the snout of the clutch gear. Using a brass or copper drift (to prevent damaging the other end of the clutch gear), gently tap the clutch gear off the bearing.

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7.5 Cleaning and Inspection 1. Give all the parts a scrub up in a container of kerosene with a plastic brush. This will get most of the oil, dirt and rubbish off the parts. Its not a bad idea to give the cleaned parts a quick coat of sewing machine oil, particularly if it will take you some time to put the crashbox back together. 2. Thoroughly clean the case and check it for defects and cracks that may cause oil leaks. 3. Check for, and if necessary dress off with a fine file any burrs present on the front flange or the machined faces. 4. Bearings are relatively cheap, and it is unlikely that you will reuse them. If you do however decide to reuse them, wash the bearings out in petrol and blow them dry with compressed air. Resist the temptation to put the bearings onto your finger and spin them with the compressed air if you are lucky they will just seize. If you are unlucky, they will seize and tear off a sizeable chunk out of your finger. Lubricate the bearings with engine oil and check for wear, scoring, pits or roughness. 5. Inspect the counter shaft gear and needle rollers for wear or pitting. As wear of the rollers is difficult to discern, it is good practice to replace with new rollers where substantial mileage has been covered by the gearbox. Again, bearings are cheap, and a new countergear shaft is supplied in most overhaul kits, so it is unlikely you will reuse the bearings or shaft. 6. Clear and carefully inspect the gear teeth and other ground surfaces for wear, scoring, pitting, chips, nicks and burrs. Slight scores or burrs may be honed off with a fine stone, however if any gear is chipped or unduly worn it should be replaced. As an example, the first and reverse sliding gear shown to the left above has some badly chipped gears, and was replaced. The gears in the image to the right above have even more obvious damage.

7.

8.

9.

Check that the first and reverse sliding gear slides freely on the second and third gear clutch assembly with minimal clearance. Try the sliding gear on different splines of the second and third speed clutch assembly until the best fit has been obtained. The mated parts should then be marked with a dab of paint (or liquid paper) as a guide to final assembly. Check that the second and third speed clutch assembly has a free sliding fit on the main shaft splines with minimal clearance. Try the second and third speed clutch assembly on different splines of the main shaft until the best fit has been obtained. The mated parts should then be marked with a dab of paint (or liquid paper) as a guide to final assembly. Check the reverse idler bushings for wear by using an inside and outside micrometer and subtracting the difference. The correct clearance is from 0.002-0.004. However, replacement bushings are not so easy to find, and to be honest some slight slop in these bushings is not going to do much damage other than become slightly noisier. 0.003-0.008 of clearance is not uncommon.

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10. Check the bronze inserts in the second and third speed clutch for wear and looseness in the clutch. Check that the oil grooves are clean, and use a pointed object to gently pick out any embedded bits of steel. Never polish or change the angle of this surface.

11. Place the cones in position in the respective clutch and check that they do not rock. A rocking synchro cone will not engage evenly and should be replaced. Remember to put the cones back in the correctly labeled bag so that you do not mix them up.

12. Inspect the energizing springs for wear or damage. These can be replaced as they are included in some kits (e.g. Rare Spares).

13. Check the selector shafts and shifter shafts by rolling them on a flat surface to see whether they are bent. A bent shaft will cause hard shifting and must be replaced.

14. Inspect the shifter yokes for wear and rough contact surfaces, and ensure that the yoke lock screws are tight in the yokes. They have an offset head to provide a self-locking action and should not screw in freely by hand. Note that some EK Holden yokes have no screws at all.

15. Check the lock springs for tension and the balls for wear. Note that the lock springs should measure approximately 1 23 1 /8 free length and /32 under 15-17lb load (though measuring them under load is not an easy thing in a home workshop). Springs that are 1 under the 1 /8 free length can be (gently) stretched back by hand, taking care not to bend the spring. I have also seen collets added to increase the spring pressure and make the shift more notchy - the nd rd image to the right above shows a collet found inserted into the 2 and 3 speed shifter shaft spring

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of an EK Holden gearbox. In theory, a number of small flat washers added on top of the spring would serve the same purpose.

7.6 Reassembly and Reinstallation

1.

Install the rear bearing lock ring in the case by gently levering it in with a screwdriver. Ensure that it has free movement in the groove with a minimum of clearance. Align the ends of the ring to the D-shaped hole. Note that in the image to the right I have (incorrectly) installed the lock ring that comes with either the Rare Spares or Status Engineering kits. These rings are too large, and will not let the bearing seat. It is important that the original rear bearing lock ring is reused.

2.

Remove the kit-supplied rear bearing lock ring from the rear roller bearing (the small bearing) with a pair of snap ring pliers. Discard the ring.

3.

Start the bearing in from the front of the casing and us the lock ring expanding tool (Tool No. 7A4) to expand the ring into the case. Note that the locking groove on the bearing goes towards the rear of the case (if you put the bearing in back to front, it will hang out the end of the casing!).

4.

Using a soft metal drift (or a wooden hammer handle), tap around the bearing outer race until it is underneath the lock ring, then remove the expanding tool and continue to tap bearing until the lock snaps into position in the bearing. The outer race of the old bearing makes a great drift for this job.

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5.

Install the energizing springs in the friction cones, and check to see that the inside sections of the springs sit proud of the groove by 0.015-0.020. If they dont, use a pair of pliers to gently bow the flat sections out, then pull apart the spring tips. Recheck that the springs sit proud by 0.015 -0.020.

6.

Place the cones in the correct end of the clutch assembly as marked out in disassembly (they should be marked out in plastic bags).

7.

Install the friction cone retaining rings with a pair of circlip pliers, making sure it seats in properly. Check that the friction cones have clearance (are free to turn).

8.

Install the first and reverse sliding gear onto the 2 and 3 speed clutch in its selected and marked position (line the paint marks up).

nd

rd

9.

Install the second speed gear in the clutch assembly, meshing the clutch teeth on the gear with the internal teeth in the clutch assembly. As it slides in, you should feel it bump as it overrides the synchro cone energizing springs.

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10. Coat one side of the main shaft thrust washer (the shiny steel washer not the brass dimply ones) with gear lubricant and place it on the back face of the second speed gear, using the gear lubricant as glue to hold it in place. Install the clutch sleeve assembly in the transmission case, letting it sit in the bottom of the case for now. 11. Smear the main shaft second speed gear bearing surface with transmission lubricant then install the main shaft from the front of the casing, ensuring that the friction cone lugs line up with the gaps in the main shaft splines and that the paint marks on the selected splines line up. Push it through as far as possible by hand, picking up the clutch assembly and thrust washer as it goes through. 12. Start the set screws into the shifter yokes, taking care that they do not protrude inside the yoke (which would stop the shafts passing through them). Place the shifter yokes over their guide pins inside the casing, taking care to put the right yoke in the right position (see photos above right). The yokes sit there loosely for now. 13. Line up the front friction cone lugs with the gaps in the main shaft splines and draw the main shaft into position using tool No. 7A5. This can be done very, very cautiously with a hammer and soft drift, though extreme care is needed. If the mainshaft binds on the rear bearing, it can break the casing casting around the bearing. Draw the main shaft in until the lock ring groove is visible behind the rear bearing.

14. Using snap ring pliers, install the main shaft lock ring in the groove behind the rear bearing.

15. Use a feeler gauge to measure the main shaft end float at the thrust washer. This should be from 0.006-0.010. Clearances outside this range require removal of the main shaft and resized thrust washers (or shims) to be used.

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16. Ensure that the speedometer drive gear is a push fit on the main shaft (slide it on then back off again).

17. Install the speedometer drive locating ball in the recess in the main shaft using a pair of long nosed pliers. CAUTION: Do not force the ball into the recess or disassembly may be difficult. A dab of grease can help glue the ball in place temporarily.

18. Install the drive gear up to the ball, aligning the slot in the drive gear with the ball. Use a pair of snapring pliers to install the locking ring.

19. Lightly coat the clutch gear shaft with gear oil. Press the bearing on the clutch gear either in an arbor press or by using a length of pipe to bear against the inner raceway of the bearing only (that home-made 7A5 tool shown in Special Tools above is just the right size to do this).

20. Install the oil slinger with the three locating lugs centered on the bearing inner raceway. The lugs hold the slinger off the bearing if the slinger is flat against the bearing, try turning it over.

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21. Clutch gear bearing retaining rings were originally available in four thicknesses, though now are only supplied in one size. Use snapring pliers to install the ring and seat it securely in the lock ring groove.

22. Smear some wheel bearing grease in the clutch gear main shaft pilot and install the thirteen needle roller bearings (these are the thicker rollers). The grease will act as a glue, holding the bearings in place for now (and lubricating them when in service). After installation the bearings will lock themselves in place and cannot fall out. 23. Install the bearing locating ring onto the clutch gear bearing. Install the clutch gear in the transmission case and lightly tap around the bearing outer race with a soft drift until the bearing locating ring seats against the transmission case. Caution: during this operation, make sure that the front synchronizer friction cone lugs line up with the gaps between the clutch teeth on the clutch gear. If the locating ring does not quite seat up against the transmission case, pull the clutch gear out and check that one of the rollers has not fallen out of its place.

24. Install the first and reverse shifter shaft from the rear of the gearbox (this is the shaft where the three detent notches are widely spaced). Feed it through the shifter yoke and tighten the yoke setscrew with a normal screwdriver.

25. Roll the case over to install the lock ball, spring and screw to retain the shaft in the neutral position.

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26. Push and turn the first and reverse shifter shaft (working through the end of the casing) until the cutaway of the selector shaft lines up with the selector shaft hole in the case (see image to the left). Install the selector shaft assembly (it just sits in place for now and feels wobbly). 27. Install the second and third speed shifter shaft and feed it through the yoke (this is the shaft where the three detent notches are close together). This is a bit of a tight fit, and tends to rub until it slots into place. At the same time, pick up the slot in the shifter shaft with the second and third speed shifter lever (the cam on the selector shaft). Tighten the yoke setscrew. 28. Roll the case over then rotate the selector shaft to the neutral position and install the lock ball, spring and screw.

29. Install the selector shaft retainer gasket. Clean the round seal surface of the selector shaft retainer with some petrol to remove any oil, then install it. Install the three bolts and split washers finger tight for now.

30. Smear some sealant around the outside of the selector shaft seal, then start it into the selector shaft retainer. Drive it gently 11 home using an /16 socket as a drift. Tighten up the three retainer bolts.

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CAUTION: WITH THE SELECTORS IN PLACE, IT IS TEMPTING TO ROCK THE GEARBOX BACK AND FORTH THROUGH THE GEARS TO MAKE SURE THEY WORK. IF YOU ARE OVERZEALOUS IN SHIFTING INTO THIRD GEAR, YOU WILL DRIVE THE CLUTCH GEAR OUT OF THE FRONT OF THE GEARBOX. WHILST NOT THE END OF THE WORLD, IT IS FIDDLY TO GET BACK IN AND TENDS TO MOOSH THE SYNCHO FACES. GO GENTLY, OR WAIT UNTIL THE CLUTCH GEAR RETAINER COVER IS IN PLACE.

31. Smear the reverse idler thrust washers with gear lubricant and install the gear and washers in the case. Note that the brass dimply side of the thrust washers goes towards the gear, whilst the steel side has tangs that locate in the casing. The lubricant acts as a glue to hold the washers in place, and also gives start -up lubrication. Be careful which way the reverse idler gear goes in, as it will not work properly if it goes in back to front double check with the photo above right, and the diagram below (which is looking up from under the gearbox bottom cover).

32. Insert the reverse idler shaft through the end of the casing, picking up the thrust washers and gear. Making sure that the lock pin hole in the shaft lines up with the hole in the case. Note that the photo to the right shows the reverse idler gear in back-tofront it should look like the photo and diagram in the step above! 33. Check the end clearance between the reverse idler gear and thrust washer. This should be between the range 0.003 -0.009, however 0.015 is allowable on worn parts. Clearances outside this range require removal of the reverse idler gear and resized thrust washers (or shims) to be used. And yes, the reverse idler gear is still in back-to-front in this photo (guess who had to pull it out again?).

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34. Select a new tight fitting reverse idler shaft lock pin and drive in flush with case. And look at that I finally remembered to turn that reverse idler gear around the right way!

35. Smear each bearing surface of the counter gear with wheel bearing grease and install a spacer washer inside each end (the washer is hanging off my finger in the image to the right).

36. Slip the old counter gear shaft into the counter gear ( I dont recommend using the loading tool 7A2, even if you have one). Install nineteen rollers at each end (this are the thinner rollers), then install another spacer washer at each end of the gear. The photo to the right does not show the last spacer washer.

37. Pull out the old counter gear shaft (or loading tool), taking care not to displace the spacer washers. The counter gear is ready to install. Note that the wheel bearing grease acts as a glue to hold the rollers in place, and also as lubricant for startup.

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38. Smear both thrust washers with wheel bearing grease. Use the grease as a glue to glue the thrust washers to the casing (it also acts as a startup lubricant). Note that the brass dimpled side of the thrust washer goes towards the gear, and the steel side with the tangs goes towards the casing. Note also that the casing has a large and small slot for the tangs (see red screwdriver in the middle image below) align the tangs in the thrust washers to the small slot to give a better fit.

39. Insert the old counter gear shaft into the counter shaft bore, at the rear of the transmission case just enough to locate the thrust washer in place. If you dont have the loading tool, use your finger through the end of the casing to hold the thrust washer. Insert the new counter gear shaft in the opposite (front) end, just enough to locate the other thrust washer in place. Make sure that the dimpled end of the counter gear shaft is out of the casing. 40. Lower the counter gear into place and push the counter gear shaft into the case and through the counter gear, which will line the thrust washers up and push out the old counter gear shaft ( or your finger). Use a smear of grease to glue the locating ball onto the counter gear shaft dimple. Line up the locating ball in the counter gear shaft with the receiving groove in the case and drive the counter shaft gear in flush with the case with a drift.

41. Check the counter gear end play with a feeler gauge. This should be between the range 0.003-0.009, however 0.015 is allowable on worn parts. Clearances outside this range require removal of the counter gear and resized thrust washers (or shims) to be used.

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42. Coat the transmission case holes with sealing compound one by one and install a new expansion plug in each. The plugs go convex side out, and then are tapped in until they are flat with a large drift. There are five plugs to do the two shifter shaft plugs inside the bellhousing at the front of the casing, the front and rear ends of the reverse idler shaft and the selector shaft end. 43. Install the clutch gear retainer and gasket with the drain slot in the correct position (lined up with the return hole in the case). Tighten the three AF bolts and spring washers.

44. Install the speedometer driven gear (1 /16AF) by screwing it into the casing. 7 45. Install the transmission cover and cork gasket, then tighten the eleven /16AF bolts and spring washers. Dont over tighten though, as the cork transmission cover gasket will deform (and leak). Around 5-6 ftlb of torque should be sufficient. 46. Install the drain plug and copper washer. 47. Install the bellhousing vent cover with the two slot head screws. Take care to put the louvers the right way up (to keep water out). 9 48. Install the selector shaft dust cover, shifter lever, and washer. Tighten the /16AF nut to 4-6lbft.

49. Soak the cork selector lever shaft seal in gearbox oil overnight a VB bottle lid makes a great tray to soak it in. Slip the oily seal over the selector lever shaft, followed by the special flat washer, selector lever shaft spring washer and the selector shaft control lever. Install the 7 spring washer and /16AF nut and tighten up until the spring washer just starts to crush (there should be a clearance of 0.026-0.061. though this is damn hard to measure correctly).

50. Clean the inside of the front propeller shaft housing (where the seal sits) with some petrol to get rid of oil and grease. Coat the area with a very light smear of sealant, then tap in a new seal, using a block of wood as a drift. 51. Install the front propeller shaft housing and gasket. Torque the AF bolts to 15-18lbft. 52. Pour approximately 6oz (170mL) of gear lubricant into the rear compartment (via the breather hole) to provide initial lubrication of the propeller shaft bushing. Note that this is very important, as the bearing used in the back of the transmission has changed. The original bearings were open units, which allowed a moderate flow of oil to pass through them. The modern bearings supplied in overhaul kits are typically either shielded or sealed. The seals or shields substantively reduce the flow of oil through the bearing. This can prevent oil getting through from the main casing into the extension housing for quite a while. 9 53. Install the casing vent ( /16AF) and tap on the alloy cover with a wooden hammer handle. Note that if you tilt the gearbox around, this oil will flow out the back of the seal. Now is a good time to cover the end of the box with a piece of plastic bag taped on, use a spare yoke or the original extension housing protector tool.

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54. Fill the gearbox with lubricant so that the oil level is below the filler plug hole. This should take about 950mL. A piece of bent coathanger wire makes a good dipstick. If you havent sealed up the 9 back of the gearbox, then oil is now dribbling over the floor. Install the filler plug ( /16AF). Note that it is possible to fill the box when it is in the car using the flexible spout/tube that comes with most bottles of gear oil its just easier to fill it on the bench. 55. Pack the ball seat of the clutch throwout fork and the recess in the throwout bearing and coat the throwout fork groove with wheel bearing grease. 56. Install the throwout bearing and fork on the clutch bearing retainer and snap the fork onto its ball seat. 57. Install the clutch fork cover and spring. 58. Check the transmission in all gears to ensure that there is no indication of binding in any position. 59. Place the transmission under the vehicle and support it on a trolley jack, using a block of wood to spread the load and prevent creasing of the bottom cover. Move the transmission assembly towards 5 the engine and onto the dowel pins in the rear of the crankcase. The dowels should move in /16. 60. Install the transmission case mounting bolts. Note that to prevent the case from warping the bolts should be tightened in a cross-fashion (not by working from one bolt to the next see diagram to the right). 61. Install the flywheel cover plate and bolts. 62. Install the rear mountings and clutch actuating cylinder. 5 63. Adjust the clutch fork operating rod free travel to /64. 64. Remove the floor jack. 65. Install the rear mounting lower attaching bolts, nuts, spring washers and lock plates. 66. Install the propeller shaft. 67. Reconnect the exhaust pipe support bracket and speedometer cable drive to the transmission. 68. Reconnect the gearshift selector and control rods to the transmission. Install the handbrake intermediate lever support bracket attaching bolts, nuts and washers. 69. Lower the vehicle. 70. Double check that the gearbox oil level is below the filler plug hole and don t forget to refit the filler plug. 71. Reconnect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. 72. Reinstall the starter motor. 73. Reconnect the battery earth strap, the starter motor cables and wires and the throttle rod to the carburettor. 74. Reinstall the floor cover to the floor pan and reinstall the floor mat or carpet to the front floor.

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7.7 Replacement Parts In addition to the overhaul kits listed above, the following individual replacement parts are available for crashboxes. Assembly Drawing NOTE 1 Number FX FJ FE/FC FB EK 47 50 44 Suppliers Part Number E062.100.2 5

GMH Name Selector Shaft Seal Transmissio n Cover Gasket Front Propellor Shaft Housing Gasket Clutch Gear Retainer Gasket Selector Shaft Retainer Gasket Selector shaft seal

Name (supplier) TC-type seal (NAK Australia)

Gasket Set Grey Gearbox FX-EK (Rare Spares)

60 4 12 44 53

59 3 5 30 50

7405896

Front Propeller Shaft Housing Seal

H1067 1 Extension Housing Oil Seal FX-HK 3 Speed (Rare Spares) Extension Housing Rear (NAK Australia) Ball bearing (UBC Australia) Ball bearing (NTN Toyo Bearing Co) Ball bearing (UBC-Australia) Ball bearing (NTN Toyo Bearing Co) E137.206.2 5

Ball bearing Ball bearing

15 36

27

6206RSNR 6206NR 6205RS 6205NS

Speedomete r cable

Speedometer cable assembly 48 FJ Speedo cable FE/EC (Rare Spares) Speedo cable manual FB/EK (Rare Spares) Speedometer inner core (Flexible Drive Agencies) FX/FJ/FE/FC FB/EK

7404033 7400978 7412932

K12 K20

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Bushings

GSBK001

Gearshift bush kit FE-HR Holden 3 speed

7.8 Selector Rod Adjustment

The selector rod is adjusted by setting the distance between the upper side of the gearshift control lever knob and the underside of the steering wheel rim, with the gearshift lever in the 2nd and 3rd gear neutral position (i.e. in neutral, with the spring holding the gear lever towards the windscreen). Model Dimension A FX and FJ Holden 2 FB Holden 3- 3 EK Holden 37/16- 311/16 EJ and EH Holden 3.65 - 3.85 HD Holden 349/64-331/32 HR Holden 3.76-3.96 To make this adjustment for FX and FJ Holdens: 1) A clearance of 1/8 minimum must be maintained between the shoulder on the gear shift control shaft and the top of the gear shift control shaft upper support bearing to avoid interference at this point when selecting gears. Screwing the bearing out of the support half a turn will increase this clearance 1/32. With the transmission in neutral, loosen the clamp bolt which holds the gear shift selector control lever and the gear shift selector control idler lever together. Hold the gear shift selector control idler lever and the gear

2)

3)

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4)

shift selector rod in the 2nd and 3rd speed position and move the gear shift lever until there is a distance of 2 between the underside of the steering wheel rim and the upper side of the gear shift lever. Tighten the clamp bolt.

To make this adjustment for FE and FC Holdens: 1) Hold the selector rod trunnion with a suitable spanner, then slacken off the adjusting nuts. Note that the trunnion must be securely held whilst doing this, otherwise the trunnion to gearshift selector lever fibre washers will be damaged. 2) Move the gearshift control lever to the 2nd and 3rd neutral position. 3) Push down on the selector rod to ensure the transmission is set in the 2nd and 3rd neutral position.

4) Adjust the selector rod until the lower face of the gearshift lower lever is 1/16 above the centre of the selector lever pivot.

5) Hold the trunnion in the correct position, then tighten the adjusting nuts. 6) Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the lower front jaw on the selector lever and the lower face of the gearshift lower lever with the gearshift control lever still in the 2nd and 3rd neutral position. Remember this clearance.

7) Move the gearshift to the first and reverse neutral position and then check the clearance between the upper rear jaw on the selector lever and the upper face of the gearshift lower lever. This clearance should be the same as the clearance measured above. If they are not the same, then adjust the selector rod adjusting nuts until the clearances are the same. Tighten the adjusting nuts to 20 lbft torque

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8) If the adjustment process above tends to make the gearshift linkage bind, then back off the selector rod adjusting nuts until there is -1 of thread protruding above the top nut. Adjust the nuts until the most smooth operation of the linkage is obtained, then Tighten the adjusting nuts to 20 lbft torque. To make this adjustment for FB-HR Holdens: 1) 2) 3) 4) Hold the selector rod trunnion with a suitable spanner, then slacken off the adjusting nuts. Move the gearshift control lever to the 2nd and 3rd neutral position. Push down on the selector rod to ensure the transmission is set in the 2nd and 3rd neutral position. Adjust the nuts until there is a distance between the upper side of the gearshift control lever knob and the underside of the steering wheel rim as per the table above. 5) Hold the trunnion in the correct position, then tighten the adjusting nuts to 20 lbft torque. 6) Recheck that there is a distance between the upper side of the gearshift control lever knob and the underside of the steering wheel rim.

7.9 Control Rod Adjustment

The control rod should be adjusted so that when in neutral, the gearshift control lever is at an angle of approximately X above a horizontal line taken through the centre of the steering wheel, which means that the top of the gearshift lower lever is at an angle of approximately Y above the horizontal. Model FX and FJ Holdens FE and FC Holden FB Holden EK Holden EJ and EH Holden HD Holden HR Holden Dimension X 3 15o 15o 15o 14o 14o 0o Dimension Y N/A 0o 0o 0o 4o 4o N/A

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To make this adjustment for FX and FJ Holdens: 1) Loosen the clamp bolt which holds the gear shift control shaft lever and the control shaft idler lever together. Hold the control shaft idler lever and the gear shift control rod in the neutral position, and move the gear shift lever until the 3 dimension shown in the diagram to the right is obtained. Tighten the clamp bolt. Move the gear shift lever into the third speed position and check that there is clearance between the gear shift control shaft lever and the lower bearing support.

2)

3) 4)

To make this adjustment for FE-HR Holdens: 1) 2) 3) With the gearshift control lever in neutral, hold the control rod trunnion with a suitable spanner and loosen off the top lock nut. Adjust the control rod nuts until the top of the gearshift lower lever is at angle Y. This puts the gearshift control lever at the correct angle of X. Tighten the control rod lock nut to 20 lbft torque while holding the trunnion in alignment.

7.10 Control and Selector Rod Dimensions

The following dimensions can be used to check whether the control and selector rods for FE-EK Holdens are straight.

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Rod Selector

Control

Dimension A B C D E F G H I J

FE-EK Holden 10.01-10.99 7.27-7.29 10.57-10.59 21.55-21.57 23.41-23.43 10.25-10.27 7.63-7.65 7.77-7.79 18.69-18.71 20.67-20.69

Note that EJ and EH Holden rods are different, as shown in the diagram below.

The diagram below shows similar check dimensions for HD and HR Holdens.

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8 Troubleshooting Stories of crashbox abuse and failure are legend amongst early Holden owners. There are many FB/EKs which have had to have a handbag (or Occy strap) hung over the gear shift to stop them popping out of third gear. Crashboxes have also coined some iconic Australian expressions: If you cant find em, grind em. If you have teeth, you have to clean them. Like a champion prizefighter, it spat out a tooth and just kept going The following provides some guidance for troubleshooting crashboxes. Condition to Fault Part to Check Remedy Look For Gearbox oil is stinky. Engine oil (say from a blown engine Wipe all the oil off and trace the oil leak rear main seal) is Smell the backwards after a short drive. Make sure it not so stinky. leaking oil really is from the gearbox, and not the engine Grease may also or grease nipples. be present as it Oil leak from gets flung off the the rear of the universal joint extension grease nipples. housing Check the gearbox oil is below the level of the filler plug (use a bent piece of wire as a Gearbox oil level Overfull dipstick). Drain a little through the drain plug if it is overfull. Recheck. Seal has Replace the seal (can be done with gearbox in hardened over Rear seal place). Replacement seals are available from time, ran dry or both Rare Spares and NAK Australia. worn over time. Gearbox oil is stinky. Engine oil (say from a blown engine Wipe all the oil off and trace the oil leak rear main seal) is Smell the backwards after a short drive. Make sure it not so stinky. leaking oil really is from the gearbox, and not the engine Grease may also or grease nipples. be present as it gets flung off the universal joint Oil leak from grease nipples. the bellhousing Check the gearbox oil is below the level of drain hole the filler plug (use a bent piece of wire as a Gearbox oil level Overfull. dipstick). Drain a little through the drain plug if it is overfull. Recheck. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle. Snap ring has Remove the clutch gear retainer and check broken or is the oil slinger and lock ring. Broken or absent Oil slinger absent, oil parts will need to be scavenged from another slinger is loose gearbox (the main shaft lock ring supplied in or absent. the Rare Spares overhaul kit is not the same size as this lock ring).

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Clutch gear retainer drain hole

Clutch gear Archimedes screw

Expansion plugs

Smell leaking oil

Drain hole is blocked with sludge or covered by gasket. Archimedes screw is loose in clutch gear retainer (worn) or the screw is blocked with sludge. Plugs have rusted out or become deformed. Gearbox oil is stinky. Engine oil (say from a blown engine rear main seal) is not so stinky. Grease may also be present as it gets flung off the universal joint grease nipples. Loose transmission cover bolts The cork gasket has gone hard with age or has split. The drain plug is loose or the copper gasket is either missing or work hardened. Disconnect the gear shift selector and control rods at the gearbox and operate the transmission levers by hand. If the levers are easy to shift, the fault is probably in the shift control mechanism. If

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle. Remove the clutch gear retainer and check the drain hole. Rod out any sludge with a piece of wire. Recut the gasket to clear hole. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle. Remove the clutch gear retainer and check the Archimedes screw. Clean out any sludge. Replacement clutch gears are available from Rare Spares. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle. Check expansion plugs by looking in bellhousing end of gearbox. Pull out and replace leaking expansion plugs with welsh plugs.

Wipe all the oil off and trace the oil leak backwards after a short drive. Make sure it really is from the gearbox, and not the engine or grease nipples.

Oil leak from bottom cover (sump)

Transmission cover (sump) bolts Transmission cover (sump) gasket

Tighten the transmission cover bolts. Dont over tighten them though, as the cork transmission cover gasket will deform (and leak worse ). Around 5-6 ftlb of torque should be sufficient. Replace the gasket. Replacement gaskets are available from Rare Spares as part of a gasket kit. Replace the copper gasket and tighten the plug. Do not over tighten as the thread will strip.

Drain plug

Gears hard to shift

The fault may be caused by the shift control mechanism (between the cabin shift lever and gearbox) or in the gearbox itself.

Work through either shift control faults or gearbox internal faults below.

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Gearshift linkage

Gearshift lower lever sliding surfaces Selector rod or control rod

the levers are hard to shift, the fault is probably in the gearbox itself. Linkage is incorrectly adjusted. Linkage is poorly lubricated (dry or gritty) The surfaces are rough, pitted, badly worn or poorly lubricated The rod(s) are bent or deformed Excessive resistance at the start of a shift infers that the spring is too stiff or bound up with sludge. Shaft is bent

Adjust gearshift linkage (selector rod and control rod adjustment) as per the Section above. Clean and lubricate gearshift linkage. Clean and lubricate the surfaces. Replace any unrecoverable items by using second hand parts. Check the rods against the check dimensions and bend back them to shape. Replace unrecoverable items by using second hand parts. Remove the set screw with an allen key and fish out the spring with a small pointed object (or a bit of bent wire). Clean and/or replace the spring. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Straighten the shaft in a press or by gentle hammering. Replace unrecoverable items by using second hand parts. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Straighten the shaft in a press or by gentle hammering. Replace unrecoverable items. Replace oil seal (oil seals are available from Rare Spares and NAK Australia). Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace or reface the synchronizer cones (replacements can be nd gotten from a 2 hand box refacing cones is possible but an expensive proposition). Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Deburr the gears cautiously with a fine file. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Deburr the lugs cautiously with a fine file.

Shifter shaft poppet ball spring

Shifter shaft

Selector shaft

Shaft is bent or binding in oil seal.

Synchroniser cones are scored Burrs on the synchronizer gears Rough cam surfaces on the ends of the synchronizing cone lugs Gear shift was moved into first or reverse gear too quickly after pressing clutch pedal Gear shift moved

Second or third gear blockout

Gear clash (first or reverse gear)

Driver error (nut behind the wheel)

Slow down the gear shift process (ya mug lair ).

As there is no synchro on first, moving to first

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into first gear when vehicle is moving. Engine idle Clutch fork operating rod Clutch pedal free travel. Synchronising cones or cone surfaces Idle is too fast Incorrect free travel. Incorrect free travel.

gear with the vehicle moving is a delicate operation. It can be done, but only at very low speeds and with a lot of practice. Not for the faint hearted or heavy of hand. Check the idle speed and reduce it to 500rpm when hot. Adjust the clutch fork operating rod free travel 5 to /64 (0.080). Adjust the clutch pedal free travel to /8. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace or reface the synchronizer cones. (replacements can be nd gotten from a 2 hand box refacing cones is possible but an expensive proposition). Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the second and third speed clutch (replacements can be gotten nd from a 2 hand box or from Status Engineering). Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the synchronizer springs (these are available from Rare Spares or Status Engineering). Adjust the clutch fork operating rod free travel 6 to /64 (0.080). Adjust the clutch pedal free 1 travel to /8. Check the gearbox oil is below the level of the filler plug (use a bent piece of wire as a dipstick). Topup as required. Recheck.
1

Cones are worn

Gear clash (second or third gear)

Second and third speed clutch Synchroniser energizing springs Clutch plate

Bronze insert is loose

Weak or broken springs.

Dragging

Gearbox oil level

Underfull Change in noise. With the engine running, gearbox in neutral and the clutch engaged (foot off the pedal), the following parts are spinning: Clutch gear and ball bearing, counter gear and needle bearings, reverse idler gear and needle bearings, second speed gear, main shaft pilot bearing. When the clutch is released (foot on the pedal) the above parts are no longer loaded.

Gearbox noisy in neutral

Push in and release the clutch with the engine running and the vehicle in neutral.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Examine the parts listed to the left.

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Constant clicking noise Noise when shifting out of first or reverse gears very slowly Abnormal noise during a normal speed shift Abnormal noise when disengaging both first and reverse gears whilst the vehicle is still in motion. Abnormal noise when disengaging only reverse gear whilst the vehicle is still in motion. Abnormal noise when disengaging only first gear whilst the vehicle is still in motion. Gearshift linkage

Bearing or gear nicked or metal shaving embedded. This is a normal noise, and occurs just as the gears engage. It is due to the gear pointing required for easy engagement. Incorrect clutch fork operating rod free travel. Incorrect clutch pedal free travel. Damage to the pointing on the engaging side of the teeth of the first and reverse sliding gear.

Adjust the clutch fork operating rod free travel 5 to /64 (0.080). Adjust the clutch pedal free travel to /8.
1

Noise when shifting out of first or reverse gears

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the first and reverse sliding gear (replacements can be gotten from nd a 2 hand box).

Damage to the pointing on the engaging side of the reverse idler gear. Damage to pointing on the engaging side of the teeth of the counter gear. Gearshift linkage is not adjusted correctly.

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the reverse idler gear nd (replacements can be gotten from a 2 hand box).

Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the counter gear nd (replacements can be gotten from a 2 hand box). Adjust gearshift linkage (selector rod and control rod adjustment) as per the Section above. 5 Using a /16 allen key, remove the offending shifter shaft lock spring and ball lock screw (hint: first and reverse is on the passenger side of the car, and second and third is on the drivers side). Pick the spring and ball out with a magnet on a stick tool. Check that the 1 spring free length is approximately 1 /8. Clean up the spring and ball in some kerosene, and use a pipe cleaner to clean any gunk out of the channel in the gearbox casing. Reassemble. If slop is still present, it may be necessary to swap for another spring, or to use a collet/stack of washers on top of the spring. Remove gearbox and examine the locating dowels in the end of the crankcase. The dowel 5 pins should stick out enough to engage by /16

Gearbox jumps out of gear

Place vehicle in gear that is jumping out. Raise vehicle on stands and rock the selector lever (on the side of the gearbox) by hand, feeling for any slop. Gearbox jumps out of third speed only.

Shifter lock balls do not have full engagement in the notches of the shifter shaft.

Misalignment between the gearbox

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bellhousing and the engine crankcase. Handbag missing from shift lever. Bearings or bushings are loose, main shaft sliding sleeve is loose, worn teeth on mating gears. Overtight (short radius) bends or kinks in the cable

in the gearbox. Ensure gearbox mounting bolts are tightened in a cross-fashion. Replace handbag. Male drivers may not be comfortable driving with a handbag in place with no female passenger. If so, replace handbag with Occy strap. Remove the gearbox from the vehicle and disassemble. Replace the defective parts nd (replacements can be gotten from a 2 hand box).

Speedometer cable routing under the vehicle. Cable connections behind the speedometer instrument and at the crashbox

Reroute cable for gentle bends.

Undertight (loose) cable end fittings The inner cable snapped (cable not spinning during test drive). Unscrew the speedometer cable from both speedometer instrument and gearbox and pull out inner cable to see if it is in two pieces. The square drive fitting at gearbox has been rounded out (cable not seen to be spinning). Unscrew the speedometer cable from the gearbox and examine the square-drive fitting end.

Retighten the fittings.

Speedometer doesnt work or is jumpy

Disconnect speedometer cable from rear of speedometer instrument by reaching up behind dash (beware of the wiring!). Have a passenger examine the cable end whilst going for short drive.

Replace the inner cable. The inner cable alone is available from Flexible Drive Agencies as part number K12 for FX-FC Holdens and part number K20 for FB/EK Holdens. The inner+outer cable is available from Rare Spares as a complete unit.

Unbolt and the replace speedometer driven gear assembly (replacements can be gotten nd from a 2 hand box).

Underlubricated inner cable.

Unscrew the speedometer cable from both the speedometer instrument and the gearbox and pull out the inner cable. Clean both the inner cable and the inside of the outer cable in 2 some kero/WD40. Grease the bottom /3 of the inner cable lightly with lithium grease and

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reassemble (do not grease top /3 of cable, or grease will be driven up into the speedometer instrument under load). Cable not seen to be spinning and above causes ruled out. The speedometer main shaft ball has become dislodged, and the speedometer drive gear is spinning on the main drive shaft Disconnect speedometer cable from the gearbox fitting. Have passenger examine speedometer instrument while you repeatedly twirl the end of the inner cable between thumb and forefinger.

Remove the gearbox rear extension housing. Remove the main shaft lock ring behind the speedometer drive gear and remove the gear. Replace the main shaft lock ball. Fish around in the bottom of the casing rear compartment and extension housing with a magnet to find the missing lock ball.

The speedometer instrument is faulty (speedometer does not jump and start to read as inner cable is twirled).

Remove and instrument.

overhaul

the

speedometer

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Floor Mounted Shifters

9.1 Background A popular modification for early Holdens is to change from the original column shifter (three-on-the-tree) to a floor shift (three on the floor). Whilst gear shifting may be marginally faster, there is undoubtedly a significant cool factor in a floor shift an Impala shifter can make you look like you have four on the floor, eight on the roof and nine on the doors. The following three images are taken from Australian Hot Rod magazine, November 1966.

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There are some downsides to floor mounted shifters though: a) The front bench seat middle seating position can leave passengers trying to fight the gearshift, b) The shifters are often mounted offset to the drivers side and can leave the driver trying to fight the gearshift with their left leg, c) Care needs to be taken that the front bench seat does not clash with the shifter lever, d) A permanent hole needs to be cut in the floor to accommodate the shifter lever, e) Some floor shifters put additional loading on the first and reverse shifter lever cam and second and third shifter lever cam. This can cause the shifter to snap the cams by trying to push past the engaged gear position. A typical grey motor crashbox Speco-Thomas floor shifter increases the torque applied to the shifter levers cams by 40%, whilst the respective Impala shifter reduces torque by 25%, f) Loose bolts, dirt or tired wave washers can make the floor shifts either very sloppy or overly tight, leading to bad shifting or jamming of the shifter, g) Floor shifters are no longer made for early Holdens. This means that you will need to source one from a swapmeet, eBay or make one yourself. Sadly, many shifters have been abused over the years, with bolts replaced with incorrect types, linkages lost or wave washers missing. This makes it hard enough to determine how your shifter should work. It gets even tougher when people cant identify the shifter many eBay listings have the wrong gearbox type assigned to a given shifter. It can be pretty frustrating outlaying your money only to find the shifter doesnt fit. The information listed below has been put together to try to reduce some of the above hassles. Early Holden floor shifters are typically one of three designs: a) a side shifter, where the shifter is mounted in line with the gearbox shift levers (away from the gearbox centerline and normally closer to the drivers leg), b) a centre shifter, where the shifter is mounted on the gearbox centerline and levers are used to reach the gearbox shift linkages, or c) a remote shifter, where a cable or rod drive allows the shifter to be mounted (almost) anywhere. When connecting to the gearbox, there are two ways of attaching the selector lever underslung or overslung (see diagrams below).

Most shifters are underslung. Underslinging or overslinging the gearbox changes the shift pattern, as discussed below.

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9.2 Adjusting (Tuning) a Floor Shifter An old, dirty, rusty, untuned floor shifter can be so tight that you have to fight the stick to shift gears or so sloppy that it is like stirring a bowl of porridge. At worst, they can allow you to select two different gears at once. This locks the gearbox up solid, and is like throwing on the handbrake not s o funny at freeway speeds. The following notes provide some guidance for tuning up a floor shifter. a) Pull the shifter apart and clean it up with some kero. This will wash out the old hard grease and any dirt that has accumulated over the last half century. b) Any parts that need to turn (pivot points) or slide should be lubricated up with some chassis grease (the same stuff that you put into kingpins and balljoints). Wheel bearing grease will do in a pinch, but is a little thick. Do not overgrease the shifter excess grease will attract dirt, which can jam the shifter. c) Most pivot points are adjusted on one of three ways. In each case, the aim is that the bolt should be fully tight, whilst Part A and Part B are free to pivot. The first method uses a shouldered bolt to join together Part A and Part B (see diagram to the right). The bolt bottoms out when fully tightened, leaving Part A and Part B loosely connected. The looseness is removed by installing a wave washer. The wave washer crushes slightly, providing some tension. Quite often, the wave washer is too thin to provide enough tension. In this case, a tuning washer is placed under the wave washer to take up some of the gap. The tuning washer thickness can then be chosen so that the wave washer crushes enough to provide good tension, but is not totally flat. If the tuning washers you have are a little thick, they can be filed down thinner with a fine file. Another technique to adjust the tension is to replace the wave washer with a different type, though this is normally more difficult as wave washers are nowhere near as common as normal washers. The second method utilizes a lock nut to hold the bolt, rather than bottoming out the bolt shoulder (see image to the right). This method is tuned in the same way as the first method, though often the bolt can be threaded in sufficiently that tuning washers are not necessary.

The third method is used when neither of Part A or Part B is threaded. This method uses a nylock nut (or locktite) to hold the bolt. Note that factory joints are not made like this, though it is a handy technique when the original factory threads have been badly damaged, or when building linkages from scratch. This method is tuned in the same way as the first method, though often the bolt can be threaded in sufficiently that tuning washers are not necessary. d) Gear knobs come in a variety of types, each with its own thread.

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Company Speco (wooden knob, chromed metal insert top with red paint) Impala (white knob with shift pattern engraved) B&M (most automatic) Gennie Shifter (automatic) Gennie Shifter Lo-Dapt Hurst Pro-Matic (before 1987), Vertical Gate (before 1987), V-Matic (before 1987) Hurst aluminum sticks, Quarter Stick & Quarter Stick 2 Hurst Comp/Plus (early), Indy 3 Speed, Indy Matic 1, Indy Pick Up Truck, Indy SSA Hurst Auto/Stick1, Auto/Stick3, Billet/Plus, Chrome replacement sticks, Comp/Plus late) & OEM, Dual/Gate2, Indy Qualifier, ProMatic2 (since 1987), Super Shifter 3, V-Gate (since 1987), V-Matic 2 (since 1987) Lokar

Typical shift knob thread sizes 3 /8-16 UNC -20 UNF -20 UNF 5 /16-18 UNC 3 /8-16 UNC -13 UNC
7 3

/16-20 UNF /8-24 UNF /8-16 UNC

/16-20 UN or /8-16 UNC

Some later gear knobs have a soft plastic multifit insert, and a grub screw that locks them to the shifter. This is a really poor design, guaranteed to come loose over time, and/or chew the shift lever thread to bits. Early shift knobs do not have a grub screw. This can be very frustrating if the knob tightens up with the shift pattern upside down. One trick to counter this is to use a lock nut under the shift knob see photos to the right.

Note that new bush kits for Speco shifter linkages are available (via eBay) from Westworld Spares (phone 0431515630). The kits include bushes, wave washers, flat washers and split pins, together with a sheet with some general guidelines to make installation easier. The plastic bushes are hand turned using extruded oil impregnated plastic with an operating range of -40C 130C and a melting point of 250C. Whilst greasing during initial assembly is required, little subsequent greasing is likely to be needed.

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9.3 Grey Motor Crashbox H-Pattern Shifters The Wobbly Sticks Holden grey motor crashboxes were commonly fitted with accessory floor shifters in a side shifter, underslung H-pattern. The wobbly sticks were made by a number of manufacturers, as per below.

9.3.1 Speco-Thomas Speedshift Speco-Thomas (often referred to as Speco) manufactured wobbly sticks for both the grey motor and red motor crashboxes under the brand name of Speedshift see image to the right. The grey motor Speedshift (part number 611470) has a round bar handle, as per the photos below.

Fitting instructions for the grey motor Speedshift are shown below:

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The shifter shift pattern is as follows: a) b) c) d) e) Neutral, centre position. st 1 gear pull to the left and backwards from neutral. Shifter lever on gearbox pushes in and moves clockwise. nd 2 gear push to the right and forwards from neutral. Shifter lever on gearbox pulls out and moves anticlockwise. rd 3 gear push to the right and backwards from neutral. Shifter lever on gearbox pulls out and moves clockwise. Reverse push to the left and forwards from neutral. Shifter lever on gearbox pushes in and moves anticlockwise.

R N 1

The shifter has a helper spring which forces the shifter to the 2/3 side of the H-pattern gate i.e. to move st st nd from neutral into 1 or Reverse gear, you need to fight the spring, and moving from 1 to 2 gear the spring helps you across the gate. This is identical to the action of the spring in the original FB/EK Holden gearshift.

The red motor Speedshift was manufactured as parts 611471 for EJ and EH Holdens, and 61472 for HRHK Holdens. The shifter gear pattern is as follows: a) b) c) d) e) Neutral, centre position. st 1 gear pull to the left and forwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves clockwise, rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise. nd 2 gear push to the right and backwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise, rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise. rd 3 gear push to the right and forwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves clockwise, rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise. Reverse push to the left and backwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise, rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise.

1 N R

The shifter has a helper spring which forces the shifter to the 2/3 side of the H-pattern gate i.e. to move st st nd from neutral into 1 or Reverse gear, you need to fight the spring, and moving from 1 to 2 gear the spring helps you across the gate.

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Fitting instructions for the red motor Speedshift are given below.

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9.3.2 Dor

The Dor grey motor wobbly stick is very similar in design and construction to the Speco shifter see photos below.

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9.3.3 Cee-Gee Shifter

The Cee-Gee Shifter is depicted in the article shown to the right (page 60 of a Hot Up Guide), though not described other than the following text: The Cee-Gee floor shift conversion for Holden comes from Birchwood Sports Cars in Melbourne. Sydney Speed Shop also stocks them. Note that Cee Gee Holdings was formed by Garth Campbell (the Cee comes from Campbell) and Graham Withers(the Gee comes from Graham) and later
became Impala Performance Products (see Impala shifter information below).

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9.3.4 Unknown Wobbly Sticks Grey motor wobbly sticks with flat handles similar to those shown below show up from time to time, often labeled as Speco shifters. I have no evidence to suggest that these are actual Speco products.

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9.3.5 Operation The grey motor wobbly stick shifter works without the use of the selector shaft control lever (remember that the purpose of this lever is only to move the selector shaft in and out). The shifter works solely and directly on the selector lever moving it both in/out and turning it clockwise/anticlockwise as the shifter is moved through the H pattern. The shifter is mounted to the bottom of the gearbox with a piece of angle iron. The angle iron provides two pivot points (the selector pivot point and the shifter pivot point in the diagram below). When the shifter is moved left/right, the shifter pivots about the selector pivot point (point d in the diagram to the right). When the shifter handle (point a) is pushed to the right (for second and third gears, yellow arrows in the diagram to the right), the shifter lever (and attached selector shaft) are pulled out of the casing (point e). When the shifter is pushed to the left (for first and reverse gears, blue arrows in the diagram to the right), the selector lever (and attached selector shaft) are pushed in to the casing. When the shifter is moved forwards/backwards, the shifter pivots about the shifter pivot points. When the shifter is pulled backwards (for first and third gears, green arrows), the shifter lever moves to the front of the car (point b) and moves clockwise (point c). When the shifter is pushed forwards (for second and reverse gears, red arrows), the shifter lever moves to the rear of the car and moves anticlockwise.

9.3.6 Building Your Own Wobbly Stick When building your own wobbly stick, one of the first decisions to make is whether to run an underslung or an overslung shifter. The underslung shifter is approximately 2 across the gate, with a 3 throw from neutral to a gear. Overslinging gives approximately longer throw.

R
The shift pattern changes between overslinging and underslinging, as shown in the image to the right.

2 N

1 N

underslung
The selector pivot that must be built is different depending on whether an underslung or overslung setup is being used. The item on the left is used for overslung shifters, whilst the item on the right is used for underslung shifters.

overslung

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 The shifter lever must be built differently depending on whether an underslung or an overslung setup is being used. The underslung shifter uses the factory grey motor crashbox shifter lever, whilst a new shifter lever must be fabricated when overslinging. The image to the right shows the overslung shifter lever this can be made somewhat neater using some steel plate and a UNC bolt (see dimension drawing below). An addition decision needs to be made whether to run a standard shifter or the closer version. The standard shifter is offset approximately 6 to the drivers side of the centerline of the vehicle (in line with the choke knob). The closer version is only offset 5 (i.e. 1 closer to the centerline). Whilst the closer version is less likely to interfere with the drivers leg, the linkage angle is not as neat, leading to longer throws. The closer version requires a unique shifter lever to be made (see image to the right), and a 1 shorter angle iron bracket (see dimension drawing below).

The drawing below gives the dimensions for construction of a wobbly stick shifter for the grey motor crashbox.

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At 2012 steel prices, the total cost for materials is around $15 (plus a little cutting, drilling and welding time). Description Angle iron bracket Bolts, washers, nuts and wavewashers Flat bar pieces Gear stick shaft Material 30mmx30mmx3mm angle iron 3/8-16UNCx1, nyloc nut 20mmx5mm flatbar 5 16mm ( /8) rod

The image above shows parts for standard, close, underslung and overslung shifters. Note that the angle iron bracket bolts to the bottom of the transmission cover. The pressed-steel transmission cover has a lip that runs around its edge, with the angle iron bracket resting on the lip. As the lip provides very little support, the bracket can twist, leading to a sloppy feel. The lip also prevents the transmission cover bolts from holding the cork seal tightly in place, and can lead to some leaks. There are a number of methods to address this issue: a) Replace the transmission cover with a piece of heavier gauge flat steel, and weld the angle iron to it. This greatly reduces shifter slop.

b)

Install a small piece of flat bar between the angle iron bracket and the transmission cover as per the image to the right.

c)

Use three thick washers as spacers between the angle iron bracket and the transmission cover. This approach was used by both Dor and Speco, albeit by pressing the washers into the angle iron (see photos below)

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Note that the top of the gear stick will need to be threaded to suit the chosen shift knob. The 16mm ( /8) 5 5 bar should be able to be die cut to /8-11UNC or /8-18UNF (-10UNC or -16UNF at a pinch but will be sloppy thread), though smaller threads will require the top of the gear stick to be reduced in diameter before die-cutting. An easier way is to find a bolt that fits your shift knob, and weld it to the top of the gear stick. The table below gives some indicator thread sizes, though caution is advised double check the 3 actual thread before going crazy with the welder or tap and die set. I like to use a /8-16UNC bolt for two reasons. Firstly, its the same bolt as all the others in the shifter (saves me buying more bolts ). Secondly, it fits the Speco gear knobs. Company Speco (wooden knob, chromed metal insert top with red paint) Impala (white knob with shift pattern engraved) B&M (most automatic) Gennie Shifter (automatic) Gennie Shifter Lo-Dapt Hurst Pro-Matic (before 1987), Vertical Gate (before 1987), V-Matic (before 1987) Hurst aluminum sticks, Quarter Stick & Quarter Stick 2 Hurst Comp/Plus (early), Indy 3 Speed, Indy Matic 1, Indy Pick Up Truck, Indy SSA Hurst Auto/Stick1, Auto/Stick3, Billet/Plus, Chrome replacement sticks, Comp/Plus late) & OEM, Dual/Gate2, Indy Qualifier, Pro-Matic2 (since 1987), Super Shifter 3, V-Gate (since 1987), V-Matic 2 (since 1987) Lokar Typical shift knob thread sizes 3 /8-16 UNC -20 UNF -20 UNF 5 /16-18 UNC 3 /8-16 UNC -13 UNC 7 /16-20 UNF 3 /8-24 UNF
3

/8-16 UNC
3

/16-20 UN or /816 UNC

Note that the length of the shifter should be left a little long, and cut to size to suit the specific vehicle after trial fitting. As a very-rough guide for an FB/EK Holden sedan: Centre of selector to top of seat = 12 Centre of selector to centerline of dash knobs = 19 Centre of selector to bottom of rear view mirror (Ed Roth, baby!) = 31 Note that it is possible to bend the gear stick into an S shape to help clear the bench seat. This should be avoided wherever possible, as the S shape can cause the shifter to twist when moving side -to-side across the gate. A spring is required to connect to the selector lever and provide assistance across the gate. A very stiff spring is required due to the lack of leverage some trial and error will be required. It is also possible to omit the spring entirely. The standard selector lever tends to foul on the shifter lever it may be necessary to bend it as per the left item in the image to the right.

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The image below shows the standard overslung shifter (I have omitted the selector lever and spring in the three images below for clarity).

The image below shows the standard underslung shifter.

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The image below shows the close version shifter.

The image to the right shows the selector lever and spring. Note that the spring shown is somewhat light - due to the short fulcrum lengths, the spring needs to be pretty hefty to give any real assistance across the gate.

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9.3.7 Installation The shifter may be installed as follows: 1. Working under the vehicle, disconnect the gearbox selector rod and control rod from the gearbox. Disconnect the steering column ends to allow the rods to be removed. 2. This leaves the (now redundant) gear lever still hanging off the steering column honeypot inside the car. It is OK to leave this in place, though if a neater cabin is desired, punch out the control lever pivot pin (shown in red in the FE/FC Holden diagram to the right similar position for FB/EK Holdens) in the honeypot. This will allow you to pull out the lever, and blank off the hole in the honeypot with a rubber grommet.

3. Remove both the shifter lever and selector shaft control lever from the gearbox.

4. From below, centre-punch the floor 1 out and 1 to the rear from the selector arm bolt. 5. Roll back the front floor mat or carpet and underlay. Slide the front bench seat fully backwards. 6. Working from inside the vehicle, mark out a hole approximately 2 in diameter using the centre-punch mark as a centre. Cut out the hole with a hole saw or tin snips. Note that an approximate template for marking the hole is given below.

7. Remove the three rear-most bolts ( transmission cover (gearbox sump).

7 /16

AF) from the

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8. Bolt the angle iron bracket to the bottom of the gearbox by 7 reusing the three /16 AF bolts. If using spacer washers, ensure these are fitted (see discussion above).

9. Grease and assemble the linkages. Tighten the nylock nuts up to remove any slack, but not so tight that the wave washers are compressed. 10. Test the shifter moving side-to-side. Tighten the selector pivot adjustment nut until the change is smooth and easy with just enough slack to move sideways into all positions. 11. Test the shifter moving front-to-back. Tighten the shifter front and rear pivot point bolts and until the change is smooth and easy with just enough slack to move forwards/backwards into all positions. 12. Fit selector shaft control lever spring (if using it) from the selector shaft control lever (the lower lever on the gearbox) to the spring hole in the bracket. The selector shaft control lever is now redundant (not operated by the floor shifter). 13. Select a boot to seal the floor opening. A number of boots are available see table below. Part Maximum floorpan Item Image Number hole size

Speco-Thomas Universal gear shift boot

621509

3 x 4

Speco-Thomas Nissan gear shift boot

621511

3 x 5

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Speco-Thomas Centreshift gear shift boot

621514

3 x 4

621515

3 x 5

Speco-Thomas Euro gear shift boot

Speco-Thomas Mega boot

621516 (also sold as Spectre 6284)

8 x 9

Spectre Performance

6283

6.5x5.5

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Spectre Performance

6285

5.25x4

14. Place the gear shift in neutral. Fit the rubber shifter boot over the end of the shifter and allow it to naturally centre over the shifter. 15. Fit the metal boot frame over the rubber shifter boot and mark the centre of the screw holes. 16. Remove the metal boot frame and rubber boot. Centrepunch and pilot drill the screw holes. Work the self tapping screws into the holes then remove them. 17. Run a thick bead of mastic around the top side edge of the floorpan hole. This will glue the carpet to the floorpan, and help prevent water from traveling (from under the car) up between the carpet and floorpan. 18. Roll back the floor mat or carpet onto the floorpan (and the sticky mastic). 19. Refit the rubber boot and metal boot frame and screw down to the floorpan. 20. Fit a shifter knob lock nut to the top of the shifter, and then fit the shifter knob. Hold the shifter knob in the desired location and tighten the lock nut. 21. Check that the shifter mechanism is free to select all gears and not being caught on the carpet, boot or floorpan.

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9.4

Impala Shifter

9.4.1 Background Impala shifters, were designed and manufactured by an Australian company - Impala Performance Products (originally named Cee Gee Holdings). The company was started by Garth Campbell and Graham Withers (Australian Top Fuel Champion in 1966, 1967 and 1968 driving a 392ci blown Hemi slingshot front engine dragster) in 1965. Graham later sold his shares in the company to Garth. The company started out production in Garths garage. After choosing a name for the company, a logo was needed and found by starting with a rubbing off an old Chev badge. The image above right is the logo engraved on Impala shift boot mounting plates, whilst the circular image to the right is the trademarked Impala logo. Despite the name (and the similar logo), Impala shifters have very little to do with Chevy Impalas. Impala shifters were made for a wide variety of vehicles, many of which were locally produced (for example early Holdens see advertisement below OFP Engineering was run by Geoff Dellow, of Dellow Conversions fame). Impala shifters were available in both inline and H-patterns, depending on the model. Impala Performance Products also manufactured shift knobs, identifiable by their engraved inserts.

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Impala shifters were provided with a boot and mounting plate. The rubber boot top is shaped to fit the flat shifter handle, and has the word IMPALA cast into the rubber. The chrome plated mounting plate has the Impala logo engraved into it.

Note that Impala shifters were numbered the 700 series were for Holden, 600 series for Ford, and 500 series for Chrysler (including Valiant and Simca). Pictured below are stickers sold with Impala shifters.

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9.4.2 Grey Motor (FX-EK Holden) 3-speed crashbox (model 702) The grey motor crashbox Impala shifter is an inline shifter. It is rather complex when compared to the wobbly stick shifters offered by Dor and Speco, which may be part of the Impala shifters reputation for jamming ( its also a hell of a lot cooler than the Speco ). The grey motor crashbox Impala shifter has the model number 702 stamped into it, followed by a four-digit serial number (for example 702-1568, or 702-6459). Interestingly, whilst the shift pattern is inline, the handle must move left/right across the gate slightly to allow the gearbox shifter shaft to move inwards and outwards. To accomplish this, the shifter 7 must be adjusted to give enough slop that the shifter shaft can move /32 - . The grey motor crashbox Impala shifter gear pattern is as follows: a) Neutral, centre position. st b) 1 gear - push down and forward from neutral. nd st c) 2 gear - pull back from 1 gear, pop up through neutral and then pull back further. rd nd d) 3 gear - push forward from 2 gear, straight through neutral. e) Reverse - from neutral, push down and pull back.

2 R

N s up

3 1
N

front of car

When the shifter is popped up (for second and third gears), the selector shaft control lever moves clockwise (towards the rear of the vehicle). When the shifter is pushed down (for first and reverse gears), the selector shaft control lever moves anticlockwise (towards the front of the vehicle). When the shifter is pushed forwards (for first and third gears), the shifter lever moves clockwise (towards the front of the vehicle). When the shifter is pulled backwards (for second and reverse gears), the shifter lever moves anticlockwise (towards the rear of the vehicle).

A template for installing the grey motor Impala shifter is given below:

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9.4.3 Red Motor (EJ-HK Holden) 3-speed crashbox (model 701) The model 701 red motor crashbox Impala shifter is an inline-pattern shifter. It is stamped 701 on the mounting bracket, followed by a four-digit serial number (for example 701-3342, or 701-6995). I have also owned a shifter with H553 stamped into it which was identical to the 701-stamped shifters albeit with a slightly heavier mounting bracket. The red motor crashbox Impala straight-line shifter gear pattern is as follows: a) Neutral, centre position. st b) 1 gear - push down and forward from neutral. Rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise, front lever moves clockwise. nd st c) 2 gear - pull back from 1 gear, pop up through neutral and then pull back further. Rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise, front lever moves anticlockwise. rd nd d) 3 gear - push forward from 2 gear, straight through neutral. Rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise, front lever moves clockwise. e) Reverse - from neutral, push down and pull back. Rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise, front lever moves anticlockwise.

N 2 R up

3 1
N

front of car

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9.4.4 HK-HZ+LC-LX Torana Aussie 3-speed all-syncro gearbox H-pattern (model 712) The model 712 Aussie 3-speed Impala shifter is a H-pattern shifter. It is stamped 712 on the mounting bracket, whilst the main housing is stamped Impala Professional Shifter, with the Impala logo and serial number (for example 4128, 4479 and 2841). The Impala Aussie 3-speed H-pattern shifter gear pattern is as follows: a) b) c) d) e) Neutral, centre position. st 1 gear pull to the left and forwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox remains in neutral position, rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise. nd 2 gear push to the right and backwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise, rear lever on gearbox returns to neutral position. rd 3 gear push to the right and forwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox moves clockwise, rear lever on gearbox remains in neutral position. Reverse push to the left and backwards from neutral. Front lever on gearbox remains in neutral position, rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise.

1 N R

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9.4.5 HK-HZ+LC-LX Torana Aussie 3-speed all-syncro gearbox inline-pattern (model 708) The model 708 Aussie 3-speed Impala shifter is an inline-pattern shifter. It is stamped 708 on the mounting bracket together with a serial number (for example 1731). The main housing plate is not stamped. The Aussie 3 speed Impala straight-line shifter gear pattern is as follows: a) Neutral, centre position. 3 N st b) 1 gear push down from neutral and push forwards. Rear lever on 2 gearbox moves clockwise, front lever moves remains in neutral position. 1 nd st c) 2 gear pull back from 1 gear, pop up through neutral and then pull R back further. Rear lever on gearbox returns to neutral position, front up 3 lever moves anticlockwise. front of car rd nd d) 3 gear push forward from 2 gear, straight through neutral. Rear lever on gearbox returns to neutral position, front lever moves clockwise. e) Reverse - from neutral, push down and pull backwards. Rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise, front lever remains in neutral position.
N

The shifter has a helper spring which forces the shifter to the 2/3 side of the inline pattern gate i.e. to st st nd move from neutral into 1 or Reverse gear, you need to fight the spring, and moving from 1 to 2 gear the spring helps you across the gate.

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9.4.6 Aussie 4-speed (model 713) The shifter has the Impala logo together with "Impala Professional shifter" and a serial number (for example 5310) stamped on the front cover. The bracket has the model number 713 stamped on it. This shifter can work with a bench seat in a HQ-WB commercial vehicle if you have the seat back but it was designed for bucket seat vehicles. The Aussie 4 speed Impala H-pattern shifter gear pattern is as follows: Neutral, centre position. a) b) c)

d) e)

3 1 1 gear pull left from neutral and push forwards. Rear lever on gearbox moves clockwise, front lever moves remains in neutral position. nd st 2 gear pull back from 1 gear. Rear lever on gearbox moves anticlockwise, N R pull up front lever remains in neutral position. rd nd 3 gear push forward from 2 gear, across the gate through neutral and 4 2 forward again. Rear lever on gearbox returns to neutral position, front lever moves clockwise. th rd 4 gear pull back from 3 gear. Rear lever on gearbox remains in neutral position, front lever moves anticlockwise. Reverse - from neutral, pull up on the separate reverse lever knob. Lever on gearbox extension housing lifts upwards, front lever and rear levers on gearbox remain in neutral position.
st

Note that the above shift pattern assumes the shifter is underslung. If the shifter is overslung, the shift pattern changes to that shown to the right.

2 R
pull up

4 N

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9.4.7 Ford Toploader 3-speed all synchro gearbox

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9.4.8 Ford Zephyr Mark III 4-speed The inline-pattern shifter shown below was fitted to a Mark II Ford Zephyr 4-speed gearbox. Note that Impala also constructed shifters for the 3-speed gearboxes fitted to Mark I and Mark II Zephyrs (see below)..

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9.4.9 Ford Zephyr 3-speed (model 601)

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9.4.10 Ford 1952-1957 Customline (model 600) The inline-pattern shifter shown in the images below was fitted to a 1955 Customline, and will also suit early F100's fitted with car type gearboxes with left hand shift plate.

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9.4.11 Ford Falcon XK-XP (model 602)

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9.4.12 Ford Customline Star (model 603)

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9.4.13 Valiant AP5 AP6 VC (and perhaps VF VG) inline-pattern (model 501)

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9.4.14 Simca Oronde (model 502)

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9.5 Eddie Thomas H-Pattern Shifters Eddie Thomas was one of the founding fathers of the Speco-Thomas brand. Eddie, a speedway driver and drag racer, started grinding camshafts in his home garage. In 1956 Eddie bought a South Australian business Bob Williams Speed Equipment Company, known as Speco. In 1968, Brian Sampson bought Eddie Thomas Speed Shop Pty Ltd, and changed the name to Speco Thomas in 1969. Brian was the founder of Motor Improvements, a specialist engine reconditioner and the source of Speco Blueprint camshafts. Eddie produced a H-pattern shifter mechanism, which he registered as a mechanical linkage under Registered th Design 54365 on the 15 of April 1969, using the name Eddie Thompson Speed Shop Pty Ltd as the design owner. The design number is stamped on the front of the shifter casings. Whilst similar to (and often confused with) Impala shifters, the Eddie Thomas shifters have some notable differences to the Impala shifters: The Eddie Thomas shifters have a readily removable (bolt-on) flat aluminum handle, whereas the Impala shifters have a chromed steel handle which is an integral part of the shifter assembly, The Eddie Thomas shifters have adjustable shift change stops, which prevent overshifting.

The advertisement shown the right was published in a Dynamic Auto Accessories Catalogue No. 1, and appears to shows Eddie Thomas shifters alongside Thomas part numbers. The catalogue is not dated, but is in decimal currency and notes the HK Holden (post-January 1968).

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9.5.1 Aussie 3-speed (Model ML113) The photos below show the ML113 shifter to suit the Aussie 3 speed transmission.

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The shift pattern of the Eddie Thomas Aussie 3-speed shifter is as follows: 1 : Pull to the left and backwards. Rear lever of gearbox moves clockwise. Front lever of gearbox remains in neutral position. 2 : Push forwards to neutral from first, across to the right and forward again. Front lever of gearbox moves anticlockwise. Rear lever returns to neutral position. 3 : Pull back from second. Front lever of gearbox clockwise. Rear lever remains in neutral position.
rd nd st

R N 1

2 3

Reverse: From neutral, pull to the left and forwards. Rear lever of gearbox moves anticlockwise. Front lever remains in neutral position. The shifter has a helper spring which forces the shifter to the 2/3 side of the inline pattern gate i.e. to st st nd move from neutral into 1 or Reverse gear, you need to fight the spring, and moving from 1 to 2 gear the spring helps you across the gate. Note that the above shift pattern assumes that the Eddie Thomas shifter is set up in an overslung manner, with the short linkage rod located on the drivers side shifter lever. As can be seen from the photos above, there are many ways to connect this shifter. I have yet to find some original instructions.

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9.5.2 Borg Warner 3-speed Valiant AP5, AP6 (Model ML109) The photo below shows the ML109 shifter fitted to a Valiant Borg Warner 3-speed all synchro gear box (AP5, AP6, VC, VE, VF).

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9.5.3 XR Ford Falcon (Model ML114) At least two Thomas shifter models were produced one for XP and one for XR Falcons. This is probably because the early Falcon XK-XP has a very different bellhousing pattern to the later XR-XY Falcons... though I am no Ford guru. The shifter pictured was removed from an XY Falcon, so is likely to be the model ML114 to suit XR Falcons.

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9.6 Speco-Thomas Centreshift and Mr Shifter Speco-Thomas manufactured a variety of 3-speed floor shift conversions under the CentreShift brand, and 4-speed conversions under the Mr Shifter brand. Whilst none of these shifters are suitable for the grey motor crashbox, they do represent a large share of the eBay bargains circulating in the market. I have included the information below due to this popularity, and to help clear up uncertainty. 9.6.1 CentreShift and Mr Shifter Models

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The images below are of the CentreShift HQ-HZ shifter (Part number 601474)

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The images below are of the CentreShift 3-speed Toploader shifter:

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The images below are of the CentreShift Valiant AP5-CM 3-speed shifter (Part number 601478) :

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The shift pattern of the EH Holden all synchro gearbox, HD-HR Holden all synchro gearbox, HK-HG all synchro gearbox, HQ-HZ Holden, HQ-HZ racing model, Holden Torana LC-UC and Holden 1-tonner (Part numbers 601461, 601472, 601473, 601474, 601474R, 601476 and 601487) is as follows: 1 : Pull to the left and backwards. Rear lever of gearbox moves clockwise. Front lever of gearbox remains in neutral position. 2 : Push forwards to neutral from first, across to the right and forward again. Front lever of gearbox moves anticlockwise. Rear lever returns to neutral position.
rd nd st

R N 1

2 2

3 : Pull back from second. Front lever of gearbox clockwise. Rear lever remains in neutral position. Reverse: From neutral, pull to the left and forwards. Rear lever of gearbox moves anticlockwise. Front lever remains in neutral position. The shifter has a helper spring which forces the shifter to the 2/3 side of the inline pattern gate i.e. to st st nd move from neutral into 1 or Reverse gear, you need to fight the spring, and moving from 1 to 2 gear the spring helps you across the gate.

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The images below are of the Aussie 4-speed shifter (single lever, Part number 604500)

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9.6.2 Shifter Identification Individual shifters can be difficult to identify, and many parts are common amongst the shifters. The following table gives some means of identifying by the handle type:

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9.6.3 Reverse Light Switches Speco also manufactured reverse light kits for the shifters:

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9.6.4 Shifter Spare Parts Spare parts were available for the shifters as per below:

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9.6.5

Speco Gear Knobs

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9.6.6

Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Aussie 4-speed shifter (Part number 604500)

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9.6.7

Fitting Instructions - EH Holden all synchro gearbox, HD-HR Holden all synchro gearbox, HK-HG all synchro gearbox, HQ-HZ Holden, HQ-HZ racing model, Holden Torana LC-UC and Holden 1-tonner (Part numbers 601461, 601472, 601473, 601474, 601474R, 601476 and 601487)

Note that I have included two versions of the fitting instructions, which contain the reverse light switch instructions.

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9.6.8 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Muncie 4-speed (Part numbers 604200 and 604250) Attached below are installation instructions for the Mr Shifter Muncie 4-speed shifters, for both the 3-bolt extension (Part number 604200) and the 5-bolt extension (Part number 604250)

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9.6.9

Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Saginaw 4-speed (Part number 604100)

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9.6.10 Fitting Instructions - Mr Shifter Ford Toploader (Part numbers 604300, 604325 and 604350) Attached below are installation instructions for the Mr Shifter Ford Toploader 4-speed shifters (Part number 604300), which also applies to the Cobra replica model (Part number 604325) and the XA Falcon onwards model (604350)

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9.6.11 Fitting Instructions CentreShift Falcon and Cortina 3-speed (Part numbers 601481 and 601460) Attached below are installation instructions for the CentreShift 3-speed shifters to suit Ford Falcon XA-XF (Part number 601481) and Ford Cortina TC-TF (Part number 601460)

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9.7 Ralph Horton Shifter

The Ralph Horton shifter is described in the August 1960 edition of Modern Motor.

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9.8 Hardrowl Shifters The image to the right is taken from Modern Motor of June 1962. Hardrowl Speed Equipment began business in 1959. This business was run as a partnership by two apprentice tool makers, Terry Hardiman and Ian Rowley. Manufacturing commenced making lowering kits, panhard rods, traction rods, floor gear shift conversions, sports air filters, induction manifolds, ram tubes and the like. In 1963 the first speed shop in NSW was opened in the Sydney suburb of Beverly Hills. The Hardrowl partnership was dissolved in 1966 and Terry and Sylvia Hardiman commenced trading as Hardiman Auto Supplies Pty Ltd. In 1972, the original speed shop in Beverly Hills was expanded to more than four times its original size. Manufacturing continued and additional product lines were added. Importing from the USA commenced and the wholesale business continued to expand. The retail business was sold in 1981. The manufacturing and wholesale business was then relocated to Ashford Avenue, Milperra in 1984 where it remains today. Products are imported from the USA, UK, India and Taiwan and manufactured products are sold Australia-wide and exported to the UK, New Zealand and Indonesia. Under the Redline trademark, Hardiman Auto Supplies manufactures the largest range of inlet manifolds, carburettor adaptors and associated linkage components in the southern hemisphere. In September 2005 Hardiman Auto Supplies Pty Ltd was purchased by Mark and Deborah Hardiman the son of Terry and Sylvia. Sadly, other than magazine advertisements no other information appears to have survived for the Hardrowl shifters.

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10 Holden Part Numbers The following part numbers have been taken from the Master Parts Catalogue (20 Years of Holden Production). Bolt, hexagonal head /16-14x2 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 179866 Gasket kit, transmission 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 7405896 Gearshift anti-rattle spring 48, 50, FJ 7400925 Gearshift anti-rattle spring clip 48, 50, FJ 7400926 Gearshift control lever bearing support FE, FC, FB, EK right hand drive 7409292 Gearshift control lever bearing support FE, FC, FB, EK left hand drive 7415699 5 Gearshift control lever bearing support bolt, hexagonal head -20x /16 with lock washer FE, FC, FB, EK 423332 Gearshift control lever support FE, FC 7409267 Gearshift control lever support bushing FE, FC 7410881 (only suitable for fitment to gearshift control lever support part number 7409267 which have a 2.280 diameter hole in base) Gearshift control lever support FB, EK manual 7412561 Gearshift control lower support assembly 48, 50, FJ 7400933 1 Gearshift control lower support bolt, auto hexagonal head -28x1 /8 48, 50, FJ 123467 Gearshift control lower support bushing 48, 50, FJ 7400935 Gearshift control shaft return spring 48, 50, FJ 7400945 Gearshift control shaft return spring clip 48, 50, FJ 7400939 Gearshift control shaft selector collar 48, 50, FJ 7400940 3 Gearshift control shaft selector collar bolt, hexagonal head /8-24x1 48, 50, FJ 120668 3 Gearshift control shaft selector collar washer, spring lock /8 heavy 48, 50, FJ 131099 Gearshift control shaft selector collar to shaft washer 48, 50, FJ 7400941 Gearshift control tube assembly shaft 48, 50, FJ 7400932 Gearshift control tube assembly FE, FC 7414257 (when fitting to FE South Australia up to serial number 16430A, Queensland up to serial number 20221B, Victoria up to serial number 50881M, Western Australia up to serial number 11175P and New South Wales up to serial number 53442S, it is necessary to use 1-7414191 pin and 1-7414192 sleeve) Gearshift control tube yoke pin FE, FC 6649871 (South Australia from serial number 16431A, Queensland from serial number 20222B, Victoria from serial number 50882M, Western Australia from serial number 11176P and New South Wales from serial number 53443S, FC) Washer-spring FE, FC (see note) 6649871 (South Australia from serial number 16431A, Queensland from serial number 20222B, Victoria from serial number 50882M, Western Australia from serial number 11176P and New South Wales from serial number 53443S, FC) Gearshift control tube yoke pin see note 7414191 (When fitting it is necessary to use 1-7418341 bush) Gearshift control tube yoke pin sleeve see note 7414192 (When fitting it is necessary to use 1-7418341 bush) Gearshift control tube assembly FB (right hand drive) 7418344 Gearshift control tube assembly FB, EK (left hand drive) 7418875 Gearshift control tube assembly EK (right hand drive) 7418876 Gearshift control upper repair kit 48, 50, FJ 7406277 Gearshift control upper support 48, 50, FJ 7400924 Gearshift control upper support screw, oval head sl. mach. -28x3/8 48, 50, FJ 438203
7

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Gearshift control upper support washer, countersunk external tooth lock 48, 50, FJ 114616 Gearshift damper band assembly FB, EK manual left hand 7419095 Gearshift damper band assembly FB, EK manual right hand 7419094 Gearshift damper spring FB, EK manual 7419057 Gearshift lever 48, 50, FJ 7400922 Gearshift lever FE, FC 7409767 Gearshift lever FB, EK (manual) 7412557 Gear lever anti-rattle bush FB, EK, EJ, EH, HD, HR except HR 4-speed Manual transmissions 7418341 Gearshift lever anti-rattle spring FE, FC 7409271 Gearshift lever anti-rattle spring FB, EK, EJ, EH, HD, HR excluding HR 4-speed manual transmissions 7412559 Gearshift lever anti-rattle washer 48, 50, FJ 7400930 Gearshift lever cover FE, FC 6649854 Gearshift lever grip washer 48, 50, FJ 7401212 Gearshift lever knob 48, 50, FJ except FJ/225 7400923 Gearshift lever knob FJ/225 7404446 Gearshift lever knob FE, FC 7409766 Gearshift lever knob FB, EK (manual) 7412560 Gearshift lever pivot pin 48, 50, FJ 7400929 Gearshift lever pivot pin FE, FC 6649852 7 Gearshift lever pivot washer, spring /16 FE, FC SP1328 Gearshift lever pivot pin retainer FE, FC 6649853 Gearshift lever pivot pin spring 48, 50, FJ 7400928 Gearshift lever shim 48, 50, FJ 501301 Gearshift selector lever pivot pin 48, 50, FJ 7400944 Gearshift selector lever pivot retainer spring 4, 50, FJ 148148 Gearshift tube return spring FE, FC, FB, EK, EJ, EH automatic, HD automatic, HR automatic, EH manual 149ci engines up to engine number 81520 7409281 Gearshift tube return spring EH manual 149ci engines from engine number 81521, EH manual 179ci engines 7420809 Overhaul kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC 7430864 Overhaul kit FB, EK (M) 7430373 (when fitting to 48, 50, FJ, FE or FC models, it is necessary to ensure that the Mainshaft Part No, 7400127 is machined to accommodate the double row bearing lock ring. All current Mainshafts are suitably machined). Pin, spring type A x1 FB, EK 456299 Pin, transmission to engine dowel 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual), EJ (manual), EH (manual) 7401304 Pin, transmission to engine dowel 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual), (oversized) EJ (manual), EH (manual) 7406004 Repair kit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 7427800 Shifter lever 48, 50, FJ 7400178 Shifter lever FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7419060 (when fitting to FE, FC or FB up to engine number B169037, it is necessary to use 1-7419061 insulator). Shifter lever insulator FB from engine number B169038, EK manual 7419061 Transmission assembly FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) right hand drive 7412705 Transmission cover gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400197

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Transmission selector shaft assembly

48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 3 Transmission selector shaft assembly nut, light hexagonal /8-24 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 3 Transmission selector shaft assembly washer, spring lock /8-medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Transmission selector shaft retainer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive Transmission selector shaft retainer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual left hand drive 9 Transmission selector shaft retainer bolt, auto hexagonal head -20x /16 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 1 Transmission selector shaft retainer bolt, auto hexagonal head -20x1 /16 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Transmission selector shaft retainer washer, spring lock medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Transmission selector retainer gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7 Washer, spring lock /16-medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK (manual)

7415640 120369 120382 7400192 7415812 117461 SP1011 103319 7400206 120383

First and reverse shifter yoke 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Shifter yoke guide pin 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual First and reverse speed shifter shaft 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Second and third speed shifter shaft 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Shifter shaft lock screw, recess hexagonal head 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Shifter shaft lock screw washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Front propeller shaft housing gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Speedometer gear unit 48, 50, FJ Speedometer gear unit FE, FC, FB, EK (manual) 3 Speedometer gear unit ball, /16 diameter 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Clutch gear 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Main shaft front needle roller bearing 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions Main shaft front bearing package 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions Clutch gear bearing 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual, EJ manual, EH manual, HD manual Clutch gear retainer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 5 7 Clutch gear retainer bolt auto hexagonal head /16-18x /8 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 5 Clutch gear retainer washer spring lock /16 medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Clutch gear retainer gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Clutch gear bearing oil slinger 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Clutch gear bearing lock ring 0.062 selective fit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Clutch gear bearing lock ring 0.0643 selective fit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Clutch gear bearing lock ring 0.0666 selective fit 48 , 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Clutch gear bearing lock ring 0.069 selective fit 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual Synchronising cone retaining ring 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions Synchonising friction cone 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions Synchronising cone energizing spring 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions Main shaft second speed gear 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual, EJ manual,

7400214 7400175 7400215 7400216 7400182 7400256 7400401 7405060 7405945 453587 7410410 7400162 7427678 N954413 7400242 120229 103320 7400240 7400226 7400305 7400306 7400307 7400308 7400230 7400128 7400223

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EH manual, HD manual with transmission numbers prefixed by D 7023268 Main shaft thrust washer 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400222 Main shaft unit assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7413028 (Main shaft unit assembly consists of factory machined main shaft and second an d third speed synchronizing clutch) Main shaft with front propeller shaft (integral) 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400127 Main shaft rear bearing assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC N954412 Main shaft bearing assembly (double row) FB, EK manual 7406231 (when fitting to 48, 50, FJ, FE or FC models as optional service double row bearing it is necessary to ensure that the mainshaft part number 7400127 is machined to accommodate the double row bearing lock ring. All current mainshafts are suitably machined). Main shaft lock ring 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400158 Main shaft bearing lock ring 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400129 First and reverse sliding gear 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual, EJ manual, EH manual 149ci engine up to engine number 81520 7426604 Counter gear 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7419117 Counter shaft needle roller bearing 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual, EJ manual, EH manual 149ci engine up to engine number 81520 7400225 (approximately 200 EH manual 149ci units of engine number prior to 81520 were manufactured equipped with counter gear part number 7424794 which uses a needle roller part number 7422395, bearing package part number 7427812). Countershaft thrust washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400200 Countershaft needle roller bearing washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400198 Counter gear shaft 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400227 3 Counter gear shaft ball, /16 diameter 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 453587 Reverse idler gear assembly with bushings 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7421593 Reverse idler gear thrust washer 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400200 Reverse idler shaft 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 7400194 3 Reverse idler shaft pin, groove type A /16x 48-HR all three speed manual transmissions 107317 Shifter shaft lock ball spring 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400148 5 Shifter shaft lock ball, /16 diameter 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 453591 Shifter yoke and lever set screw 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 1301275 Selector shaft dust shield 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7400259 Selector shaft dust seal 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7403035 Front propeller shaft housing and bushing assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7408347 Front propeller shaft housing and bushing assembly bolt, auto hexagonal head 5 /16-18x 48, 50, FJ South Australia up to serial number 8532A, Queensland up to serial number B11824, Victoria up to serial number M22115, Western Australia up to serial number P6473, New South Wales up to serial number 5/2386S 100121 Front propeller shaft housing and bushing assembly bolt, auto hexagonal head 5 7 /16-18x /8 FJ South Australia from to serial number 8533A, Queensland from serial number B11825, Victoria from serial number M22116, Western Australia from serial number P6474, New South Wales from serial number 5/2387S 120229

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Front propeller shaft housing and bushing assembly washer, spring lock /16 medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 103320 Transmission front propeller shaft bushing assembly 48, 50, FJ South Australia up to serial number 8532A, Queensland up to serial number B11824, Victoria up to serial number M22115, Western Australia up to serial number P6473, New South Wales up to serial number 5/2386S 7400402 Front propeller shaft seal 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400408 Selector lever repair kit 48, 50, FJ 7406608 Selector lever shaft assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400204 Selector lever shaft assembly spring lock washer medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 120380 Selector lever shaft assembly nut, light hexagonal -28 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 120367 Selector lever spring washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400257 Selector lever seal 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400255 25 Selector lever seal washer, plain /64xx0.059 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual SP1225 Second and third speed, first and second speed, third and fourth speed shifter yoke 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400213 Transmission breather assembly screw 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400188 Transmission breather assembly cap 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400189 Transmission cover assembly 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400217 (when fitting to 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC up to engine number L584116 it is necessary to use 1-7400298 plug, 1-7410345 gasket). 9 Transmission cover assembly bolt, hexagonal head -20x /16 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 117461 Transmission cover assembly spring lock washer, medium 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 103319 Transmission drain plug -16 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC up to engine number L584116 7400181 Transmission drain plug annular gasket 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC up to engine number L584116 113897 Transmission drain plug and gasket, -20 FC from engine number L584117, FB, EK Manual 7423483 Transmission drain plug gasket, FC from engine number L584117, FB, EK Manual 7417490 Selector shaft control lever 48, 50, FJ 7400177 Selector shaft control lever FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7409290 Selector shaft control lever FE, FC, FB, EK manual left hand drive 7415810 Selector relay lever assembly FB, EK manual left hand drive 7415811 Selector shaft control lever special spring washer FB, EK manual left hand drive 7415827 5 Selector shaft control lever washer, internal tooth lock /16 FB, EK manual left hand drive 115548 Transmission case assembly 48, 50, FJ up to engine number 283372 7400124 Transmission case assembly FJ from engine number U283384, FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7409979 Transmission case assembly FJ from engine number U283384, FE, FC, FB, EK manual left hand drive 7415700 Transmission filler pipe plug, 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 103868 Transmission selector shaft cover 48 up to engine number 70779, 50 up to engine number 70779 7400199

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Transmission expansion plug, 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 103892 Gearshift selector rod 48, 50, FJ 7400950 Gearshift selector rod FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7410280 Gearshift selector anti-rattle washer 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 7400949 11 11 Gearshift selector washer, plain /32x /16x0.065 48, 50, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK manual 120393 1 5 Gearshift selector cotter pin, /8x /8 48, 50, FJ 426663 Gearshift selector rod insulator 48, 50, FJ 7400951 Gearshift selector rod insulator FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7409698 3 Gearshift selector rod nut, hexagonal /8-24 FE, FC, FB, EK manual 120369 1 5 Gearshift selector rod cotter pin, /8x /8 FE, FC, FB, EK manual 426663 Gearshift selector rod trunnion FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7410279 1 5 Gearshift selector rod trunnion cotter pin, /8x /8 FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 107763 Gearshift selector rod special washer FE, FC, FB, EK manual right hand drive 7400948 Gearshift control lower lever FB left hand drive 7415696 5 5 Gearshift control bolt, hexagonal head /16-24x /8 FB left hand drive 106279 5 Gearshift control spring lock washer, /16 medium FB left hand drive 103320 Gearshift control lower lever retainer FB left hand drive, EK manual 7417172 Steering column selector lever trunnion FB left hand drive, EK manual left hand drive 7414649 Steering column selector lever trunnion EK manual right hand drive 7420296 Steering column selector lever FB, EK manual right hand drive 7415016 Gearshift selector lever pivot pin FB, EK manual 7414652 3 Gearshift selector lever pivot pin nut, hexagonal jam /8-24 FB, EK manual 124925 3 Gearshift selector lever pivot pin washer, internal tooth lock /8 FB, EK manual 138542 Gearshift lower lever EK manual right hand drive 7418274 Gearshift lower lever EK manual left hand drive 7418877 5 5 Gearshift lower lever bolt, hexagonal head /16-24x /8 EK manual 106279 5 Gearshift lower lever spring lock washer, /16 medium EK manual 103320

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11 Contacts The businesses listed below have not reviewed or approved the information above, nor are they the sole source of materials I have listed them here as I have found them to be professional sources of early Holden crashbox parts and/or information. American Auto Parts Address: Unit 2, 22 Rowood Road Prospect, NSW 2148 Australia Telephone: (02) 9769 0655 Facsimile: (02) 9769 0633 Email: aapsales@americanautos.com.au Internet: https://www.americanautos.com.au Speco Thomas Pty Ltd Address: 1B Levanswell Road Moorabbin, VIC 3189 Australia Telephone: (03) 95557244 Facsimile: (03) 95532841 Email: info@speco.com.au Internet: http://www.speco.com.au NAK Australia Pty Ltd Address: 14 Donald Street Guildford NSW 2161 Telephone: (02) 96816800 Facsimile: (02) 96816899 Email: sales@nak.com.au Internet: www.nak.com.au

Status Engineering Address: Telephone: Facsimile: Email: 4/22 Shelley Avenue Kilsyth VIC 3137 (03) 97253611 (03) 97253622 grhaysom@bigpond.net.au

Flexible Drive Agencies Address: Telephone: Facsimile: Email: 5/115-117 Orchard Rd Chester Hill NSW 2162 (02) 97388600 (02) 97388699 fdann@fdrive.com.au

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