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The Authors
Chandrasekhar Iyer graduated in textile technology from the University of Bombay, did an M.Sc. post-graduate study at the University of Manchester and obtained his doctorate from the University of Stuttgart. After gaining experience with spinning machinery makers, the man-made fibre industry and in scientific research, he was a Reader and tenured Professor from 1972 in the Department of Textiles and Clothing at the Reutlingen University, from where he retired in 2002. He read on industrial processing engineering and technology in the field of knitting, the planning and organisation of knitting mills as well as filament production and processing. He also instructed in a course for Industrial Master Fitters at Reutlingen. He still gives lectures on a part-time basis, is responsible for staple and filament yarn technology as well as industrial textiles in short courses for the industry and does occassional consultancy work. He has published a number of articles not only on knitting technology in German, Indian and several European technical journals. As Officer of International Relations in Reutlingen he was particularly interested in fostering the exchange of students and lecturers with foreign educational institutions and gave short-term lectures and papers at several of these universities. In addition to his contribution to this book he is also responsible for its English version.
Bernd Mammel was a lecturer from 1963 to 1999 in Reutlingen at the "Tech" (Technical College), which is officially known as the Otto Johannsen Technikum. It has an associated organisation with the Reutlingen University and is in the same campus area. He was responsible for industrial process engineering and technology in the field of knitting. He also gave part-time lectures in machine drawing in the Department of Textiles and Clothing at the Reutlingen University. From 1992 until his retirement he was Head of the Technical College. Bernd Mammel has strived since years for the further education of specialists. Apart from his teaching and consultancy work he is, in this connection, also the author of a number of technical publications and was the chairman of the examination committee of the Reutlingen Chamber of Commerce and Industry in the course for Industrial Master Fitters in Textiles. In addition was for 17 years the Head of the VDI (Association of German Engineers) work group on Textiles and Clothing at the Reutlingen Centre for textile education, which is one of the largest in Germany.
Wolfgang Schch has worked in various knitting mills and in textile scientific research after completing his post-graduate study in mechanical engineering at the University of Stuttgart. As a Reader at the Reutlingen University since 1965 he read on industrial processing engineering, technology and product designing in the field of knitting in the Department of Textiles, which he also headed until he retired in 2002. As a long-time secretary of the German National Section of the International Federation of Knitting Technologists and as International General Secretary of this institution, he still stands up for the maintenance of contacts and for the exchange of information between experts on a national as well as an international level.
Circular Knitting
Technology Process Structures Yarns Quality
Circular Knitting is translated from German by co-author Chandrasekhar Iyer. The German original edition entitled Rundstricken. Theorie und Praxis der Maschentechnik (ISBN 3-87525-052-4) has likewise been published by the publishing house Meisenbach GmbH in Bamberg in 1992, 1995 and 2004.
Third edition. 1992, 1995 and 2004, Meisenbach GmbH, Franz-Ludwig-Strasse 7a, D-96047 Bamberg (Germany)
Die Deutsche Bibliothek CIP-Einheitsaufnahme Iyer, Chandrasekhar: Circular knitting : technology, process, structures, yarns, quality / Iyer/Mammel /Schch. 3., ed. Bamberg : Meisenbach, 2004 Dt. Ausg. u.d.T.: Iyer, Chandrasekhar: Rundstricken ISBN 3-87525-066-4 NE: Mammel, Bernd; Schch, Wolfgang
The velours upholstery fabric pictured on the cover in original size has been knitted on a MCPE machine by Mayer & Cie., diameter 30, gauge E20. Ground yarn: PES dtex 167f 32/1, plush yarn: polyacrylic Nm 50/2
Contents
01
01.1 01.1.1 01.1.2 01.1.3 01.1.4
01.1.5
01.1.5.4
01 .2 01.2.1
Processes for large circular knitting machines 14 Plain (single face) technique with latch needles 14
01.2.1.1 01.2.1.2 01.2.1.3 01.2.1.4 01.2.1.5 01.2.1.6 Rest or ground position, Pos. 1 ... 16 Tucking-in position, Pos. 2 ... 16 Clearing position, Pos. 3 ... 16 Yarn presenting position, Pos. 4 16 Cast-on position, Pos. 5 ... 17 Knock-over position, Pos. 6 ... 17
01.2.2 01.2.3
Single face relative technology with latch needles ... 18 Compound needle technique ... 20
01 .2.3.1 01 .2.3.2 Plain technique with compound needles ... 20 Plain relative technique with compound needles 24 Coordination between cylinder and dial grooves 27 Rib setting of cylinder and dial / Interlock setting of cylinder and dial / Conversion from rib to interlock setting Coordination between cylinder and dial cams ... 29 Synchronised timing between cylinder and dial cams Delayed timing between cylinder and dial cams / Conditions for the use of delayed timing for dial and cylinder cams Rib stitch formation ... 38 Purl stitch formation and needle transfer ... 38
01.2.4
01.2.4.2
01 2.5
01.3 01.3.1
Characteristics of circular knitting machines ... 44 Machine pitch and machine gauge ... 44
01.3.1.1 01.3.1.2 01 3.1.3 Machine pitch ... 44 English machine gauge ... 44 Pitch values for circular knitting machines with special pattern devices and for small circular knitting machines ... 44 Relation between machine pitch, English gauge, machine nominal diameter and number of needles ... 44 Effective machine pitches (machine gauges) ... 44
01.3.1.4 01.3.1.5
Machine nominal diameter ... 45 Number of feeders / feeder density ... 45 Production speed, number of machine revolutions ... 45 Efficiency value / speed factor ... 46 Machine elements ... 46 Frame ... 46 Machine drive ... 48
01.4.2.1 01.4.2.2 01.4.2.3 01.4.2.4 Motor ... 48 Number of revolutions of the machine ... 49 Brake ... 51 Drive arrangement ... 52 Needles ... 53 Holding-down / Knocking-over sinkers ... 58 Needle beds on circular knitting machines ... 60
01.4.3
01.4.4 01.4.5
Yarn feeder and its correct setting ... 61 Needle and sinker control units (cams) ... 63
01.4.5.1 01.4.5.2 01.4.5,3 01.4.5.4 Sliding cams .. 65 Flexible cams ... 66 Changeable cams ... 67 Alteration of course density through couliering ... 68 Vertical couliering / Diagonal couliering / Central couliering / Vertical adjustment of needle dial Fabric Fabric Fabric Fabric spreader ... 72 tensioning and winding devices ... 72 tensioning and winding devices with mechanical drive / tensioning and winding devices with electrical drive
01.4.6
01.4.7
01.4.8
VI
Contents
02
02.1 02.1.1 02.1.2 02.2 02.2.1 02.2.2 02.3 02.3.1 02.3.2 02.3.3
03
03.1 03.1.1 03.1.2 03.2 03.2.1 03.2.2 03.3 03.3.1 03.3.2 03.4
Yarn changer devices / stripers ... 126 Yarn changer device with mechanical control ... 126 Yarn changer device with electronical control ... 128 Wrap finger technique ... 132
04
04.1 04.1.1 04.1.2 04.1.3 04.2 04.2.1 04.2.2 04.3 04.3.1 04.3.2 04.3.3
Contents
VII
05
06
06.1 06.1.1 06.1.2 06.2
07
07.1 07.1.1 07.1.2 07.1.3
Basic structures ... 156 Patterned structures ... 156 Patterned structures with one needle type ... 156 Patterned structures with two needle types ... 157
Plain structures / Rib patterned structures / Rib patterned interlock structures
Patterned structures with four needle types ... 161 Plated structures... 162 Speciality structures... 162
Fleecy/Three-thread fleecy / Interlock fleecy / Plush
07.6 07.6.1
VIII
Contents
Rib tuck jacquard ... 170 Rib lock jacquard ... 170 Rib transfer jacquard ... 170
07.7
07.8
Transposition of jacquard patterns onto a jacquard circular knitting machine with mechanical indirect needle control ... 182
08
08.1 08.2 08.2.1 08.2.2 08.2.3
188
08.2.3.2
08.3 08.3.1
195
Cotton spinning system ... 196 Carded yarn / Combed yarn Worsted spinning system ... 197 Semi-worsted spinning system ... 197 Woollen spinning system .. 198 Ring spinning ... 198 Unconventional spinning techniques ... 199 OE rotor spinning / Other spinning techniques: Friction spinning / Air jet spinning / Cover spinning / Yarns with ply resemblance / Self-twist spinning / Ply spinning Process-based properties ... 202 Fibre-based properties ... 202
08.3.2
08.3.3
Filament yarns ... 203 The most important raw materials ... 203 Filament yarn types ... 203
08.4.2.1 08.4.2.2 08.4.2.3 08,4.2.4 08.4.2.5 Monofilament yarn ... 203 Multifilament yarns ... 203 Minifil yarns ... 203 Comingled yarn ... 204 Microfilament yarn ... 204
Contents
IX
08.4.3
08.5 08.5.1
Fibre blending in yarns and fabrics ... 209 Types of blend ... 210
08.5.1.1 08.5.1.2 Intimate blending ... 210 Core-sheath structures ... 210 Covering / Bicomponent yarns / Air textured yarns / Open end yarns The real ply ... 211 Comingled yarns ... 211 Feeder blending ... 211
Yarn count and machine gauge ... 212 Knitting demands on yarns ... 216 Tenacity and breaking extension ... 216 Elasticity ... 218 Friction ... 218
08.7.3.1 08.7.3.2 08.7.3.3 Waxing of staple fibre yarns ... 219 Finishing of filarment yarns ... 220 Surface of yarn and abradant ... 220
Yarn evenness ... 221 Yarn count deviation ... 222 Take-off behaviour of yarns ... 223 Yarn supply for circular knitting machines ... 224 Draw twist bobbin ... 224 Draw winder bobbin ... 224 Cross-wound bobbin ... 224
08.8.3.1 08.8.3.2 Package size ... 225 Package shape ... 225 Cylindrical shape / Biconical shape / Conical shape Random winding ... 226 Precision winding ... 226 Digital winding ... 227
08.8.4
Wind-on speed ... 227 Package hardness ... 228 Take-off yarn tension ... 228 Friction between yarn and cross-wound package ... 229 Negative yarn withdrawal ... 229 Positive yarn withdrawal ... 229 Literature to chapter 08... 230
Contents
08.9
09
09.1 09.1.1
09.1.1.3
09.1.2
Frequent faults in knitted fabrics, their definition, cause and elimination ... 237
09.1.2.1 09.1.2.2 Definition of faults ... 237 Causes of faults and their avoidance ... 238 Cracks or holes / Drop stitches / Cloth fall-out / Snags / Tuck and double stitches / Bunching-up / Vertical stripes / Horizontal stripes / Soil stripes / Colour fly / Distorted stitches
Literature ... 248 Operational data acquisition ... 248 Production calculations ... 250
10
10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4
11 12
Contents
XI
01 Knitting Technique
12
Knitting Machines
Positions
Positions
Dial cam
Cylinder cam
Dial cam
Cylinder cam
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110
Latch needles for single Jersey and ribbed fabric circular knitting machines
112
Double hook latch needles (Groz-Beckert) for Links/Links circular knitting machines
edge
ring
02 Needle Control
and its Equipment
208
sinker
sinkers
clearing
clearing
N2,
03 Additional
Patterning Equipment
05 Machines
for High-Pile Fabrics
06 Other Machines
07 Knitted
and Fabric Structures
09 Quality and
Production Monitoring
12
Index
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