Affenpinschers

Life Span: 11-14 years Litter Size: 1-3 puppies Group: Terrier, AKC Toy Color: black, gray, black and tan, red, silver and belge (mix of red, black and white hairs). Some white hairs and small white patches on the chest are acceptable. Hair Length: Long Size: Toy/Small Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height: 10-15 inches (25-38 cm)
Living Area: Indoors with a small yard. Will do well in apartments with regular exercise.

Male Weight: 7-8 pounds (3-3.36 kg) Female Height: 10-15 inches (25-38 cm) Female Weight: 7-8 pounds (3-3.36 kg)

Description
The Affenpinscher is a small breed of dog that has a unique personality and a stout and hardy physical appearance. The breed is known for its terrier-like hunting ability and athletic qualities, as well as its almost monkey-like face and amazing array of expressions. Although a small breed, the Affenpinscher is not fragile or frail, rather they are strong, agile and very good hunters. The head of the Affenpinscher is round in shape, with a very pronounced stop between the eyes and the muzzle. The muzzle is relatively short, and the lower jaw extends slightly beyond the nose. The nose is very noticeable, and the longer hair grows away from the nose in a beard around the mouth. The eyes are round and somewhat prominent - but not protruding - and are always black, very alert and serious looking. Long eyebrows that are very mobile contribute to the facial expressions that this breed is known for. The ears have traditionally been cropped, but many countries now prohibit this practice so dogs may be shown with their ears natural. The natural ears will be small and triangular in shape, folded over and held relatively close to the head. The long hairs of the forehead and eyebrows will often partially cover the ears. The overall appearance of the face should be very monkey-like, with all features symmetrical. The neck is well proportioned and slightly arched, blending into well-set shoulders. The top line is very straight and level, and the height at the withers or shoulders should be approximately the same as the length of the body, providing a square and sturdy appearance to the breed. The legs are well boned and not delicate looking, rather they are sturdy and developed. The feet are small and round, with thick pads and strong nails. The hindquarters are muscled, and slightly bent at the stifle. The tail is often docked at about one to two inches, and will be carried high. A natural tail is also acceptable and it will also be carried high, often curving up slightly over the back, especially while the dog is moving or at attention.

The coat of the Affenpinscher is dense and rather rough to the touch, and is between one and one and a half inches in length over the body. The hair on the face, chest and legs and stomach may be slightly longer with various lengths blending from one to the other. Overall the coat looks shaggy but neat, and there is little clipping or trimming required to keep these dogs looking tiptop. The coat may be a variety of colors including black, black and tan, silver, red or gray or belge (a mix of red, black and white hairs). Some variations in color including single white hairs are acceptable, as is a small white patch on the chest. Large white patches are not acceptable within the breed. Darker masks on the face and lighter hair color on the furnishings are acceptable.

Coat Description
A shaggy yet neat outer coat over a thicker, slightly wavy undercoat is the best way to describe the coat of the Affenpinscher. Somewhat rough to the touch, the coat of the Affenpinscher closely resembles that of most of the terrier breeds, although it is denser and slightly longer. The coat is longest on the chest, belly and legs as well as on the face and beard area. The breed may also have a slightly darker mask on the face, and lighter coloration on the furnishings.

History
The Affenpinscher originated in Germany in the 1600's. It was used traditionally as a vermin hunting dog on farms and even in houses in cities and towns. The exact origins and breed development of the Affenpinscher is largely unknown, but there is no doubt that it is part of the foundation stock of many other breeds, such as the Schnauzer and the Brussels Griffon. The original Affenpinscher was probably a slightly larger dog, and may have measured as much as 12-14 inches at the withers. It is likely that the demand for miniature or smaller breeds for vermin hunting and companion dogs in cities and towns led to the smaller dogs being favored over the larger members of the breed. The Affenpinscher is affectionately known as the "mustached little devil" or "diablotin moustachu" in France. The actual name Affenpinscher comes from the German word "Affen" which means monkey - and "Pinscher" which translates to terrier. Today the Affenpinscher is a relatively rare breed in most countries, but breeders are actively promoting this breed and it continues to have a loyal group of fanciers worldwide.

Temperament
The Affenpinscher is a true people dog, and loves to be actively involved in what is going on in the family. Unlike many of the terrier breeds, the Affenpinscher is not as prone to independence,

although they are excellent at problem solving and figuring things out. The Affenpinscher is playful at heart, and loves to find mischievous things to do to both amuse the family and keep themselves occupied. They are highly intelligent dogs that require firm and positive training methods to ensure that they don't become dominant or too assertive. Although a small dog, the Affenpinscher is a loyal and protective dog that will bark very loudly when he or she feels threatened or thinks that the family or property needs protecting. They can be very fierce, even in the face of much larger dogs trying to come into their yard or territory. The Affenpinscher, like many of the terriers, is rather protective of food and possessions such as toys, bedding and even bones. They are a good family dog but do best with older children that understand the nature of the dog. Younger children can also be taught to interact well with the Affenpinscher, as long as they don't start teasing the dog, and they understand the dog's natural instinct to guard possessions. The Affenpinscher will typically be a good companion dog for both other dogs and non-canine pets. Early socialization with other pets, including cats, is important in any breed and the Affenpinscher is no different. The more socialization that occurs with the breed as a puppy, the greater their acceptance of new people, animals and environments will be. The Affenpinscher is very easy to train, but does require constant change in their routine to prevent boredom and non-compliance. The breed is very quick at learning complex tricks and routines, and they really love a challenge. The Affenpinscher does not do well when left alone for long periods of time, and should always be around people more than left alone. The Affenpinscher is always ready to head out on a walk or an adventure. They are naturally good travelers, and usually do very well in vehicles. As with any dog, care needs to be taken in either extremely hot or cold temperatures, and they are recommended for indoor living.

Health Problems
The Affenpinscher is a very hardy and healthy breed of dog, with few major Health Problems or genetic concerns. As with most small breeds of dogs there is a possibility of patellar luxation, or slipped kneecap, that can occur as dogs age, but this can be treated by a veterinarian. Legg Perthes disease, a hip degeneration that happens in young dogs, can also occur but can usually be treated with surgical procedures. Obtaining a puppy from a reputable breeder that has screened the male and female for this condition will ensure the condition will not be present. Very infrequently, a heart condition called PDA ( Patent ductus arteriosis )and open fontanel, improper closing of the bones of the skull, can be found in the breed.

Grooming
The Affenpinscher's naturally wiry type coat requires regular grooming to keep tangles from developing. A wire brush or good quality pin brush, as well as a wide tooth metal comb are usually all the supplies that are required. It is important to brush the Affenpinscher at least every other day to keep the shaggy coat free from tangles. The outer coat as well as the slightly wavy inner coat will need grooming. The furnishings or feathering on the legs and belly can be

combed first to remove large tangles, then brushed to remove the debris and dead hairs. Affenpinschers that will be used in the show ring need to be stripped, which is a process of removing the long hairs by plucking. This can be done by a professional groomer or the owner, and is the best way to keep the coat looking its best. Clipping the coat of the Affenpinscher will result in a poor coat for several years, and is typically not recommended. Avoid bathing this breed unless necessary, to prevent the removal of the natural protective oils in the outer coat. Dry powder can be used for grooming between baths if necessary. Watch for any signs of irritation of the eyes in the form of tearing. Small hairs can sometimes grow on the side of the eyes, or longer hairs may curl into the eyes causing irritation. Plucking or removing these hairs is all that is usually required to prevent the tearing.

Exercise
The Affenpinscher is a moderately active dog that does require regular exercise. They can be exercised in relatively small areas, and will play indoors just as well as outdoors. In general, Affenpinschers love to get outdoors and run and play. They are natural climbers, and seem to want to explore all of the area they are allowed to run in. A fenced yard is ideal for an Affenpinscher to explore, while staying safe from larger dogs. They will sometimes chase wildlife and even other cats or pets, so a fence is important for this breed. The Affenpinscher should have regular, daily walks and exercise. Without routine outings the dogs may become somewhat rambunctious in the house, and will be more prone to getting into things and even engaging in undesirable behavior such as problem barking or chewing. Regular exercise, in conjunction with positive training, will prevent these issues from occurring. The Affenpinscher should never be left outdoors in cold climates or strenuously exercised in very hot or cold conditions. Many Affenpinschers love to fetch and play with the family, and often a romp in the yard with the kids is the best possible exercise for this breed.

Training
The Affenpinscher is a very intelligent dog that does best when challenged mentally. They quickly become bored with the same requests, and do not do well with a highly repetitive training program. Since they are so intelligent, they will quickly learn both correct and incorrect behaviors so early, firm, loving and consistent training is essential. The breed is naturally playful and mischievous, so should not be expected to be a completely serious dog. They love to be in the middle of action and activities, and often can become quickly distracted by things going on in the environment. Training sessions should be short and in a distraction-free environment until the puppy or dog understands the basic commands. Once they know what you are expecting, they will quickly learn to follow commands even when something is going on around them. The Affenpinscher, like many small dogs, can be difficult to house train simply because of their

physical size. Crate training is an ideal solution to this problem, and is very effective when done correctly and with the success and comfort of the puppy in mind. Since the Affenpinscher loves to be outdoors, getting them to go outside is not typically a problem. As with any breed, it is important to socialize this breed as part of a well-rounded training program. The more contact that puppies and adult dogs have with other people, animals and places, the more accepting and less anxious they will be. Affenpinschers are naturally rather protective and possessive of their food and toys, so training them early to "give" without snapping or guarding is important, especially if there are children in the house. Training sessions should always begin and end with some fun time for the owner and the dog. Playing, throwing or rolling a ball or just romping with the dog or puppy helps in getting rid of excess energy, and to assist with bonding.

Afghan Hounds
Life Span: 14-16 years Litter Size: average of 8 puppies per litter but may be up to 15 Color: all colors and patterns acceptable but white on the face or body is considered very undesirable. Hair Length: Long Size: Medium, Large Shedding: Moderate Shed Female Weight: 58-64lb (26-34kg) Male Height: 27 to 29 inches (68.5873.66cm)
Living Area: The Afghan Hound needs large spaces to be able to run and exercise. They can tolerate apartments provided they have lots of exercise but do best in a house with a large fenced yard.

Group: Southern, AKC Hound

Male Weight: 58-64lb (26-34kg) Female Height: 27 to 29 inches (68.5873.66cm)

Description
The Afghan Hound is a very ancient breed of dog with a regal and elegant bearing and carriage. They are highly recognizable with their narrow and tall body and long, thick and profuse coat. In general shape the Afghan Hound appears like a very tall and long haired Greyhound and like the Greyhound, they are capable of great speed and the ability to cover long distances without effort.

The head of the Afghan Hound, like the body, is long and narrow. They are often described as having a very aloof appearance since they tend to carry their head high at all times. The profile of the head is rather straight from the top of the skull through to the slight stop and then the nose actually curves outwards in a slightly convex shape, referred to as a Roman nose. The muzzle is very tapered and refined and ends in a black nose on all coat colors. The eyes are always very dark in color and almond to triangular in shape, set into the head and not bulging or sunken in appearance. The eyes should give the look of calm intelligence. The ears are long and set across from the eyes. When pulled forwards the ears should almost reach the end of the long muzzle. The lips are tight to the teeth and the bite is even, with no underbite or overbite. The neck is long and arched, blending nicely into the long, sloping shoulders and the narrow but deep chest. The neck is set high into the shoulders adding to the proud carriage typical of the breed. The back is straight from the withers to the hips and the appearance should be of lean power and muscles. The brisket is deep but not thick or heavy, with a definite cut-up to the abdomen. The hips are well developed and pronounced with powerful and long hind legs. The front and hind legs should be well boned but not heavy and should not appear slight or lacking in development. The legs will all be held close to the body as well as straight forward in orientation with the body. The pads of the feet are large and thick to allow these dogs to run over sand and through mountainous terrain. The coat is long and profuse and the breed has a natural silky topknot. The coat can be of any color or pattern and color combinations are often more favored than solid colors. There is no white allowed on the head and all other areas white is highly undesirable. The tail is long, thin and very tapered and has a curve or a ring in the end but should never curl around and touch the body. The Afghan Hound has a very flowing gait but also has the amazing ability to change directions almost instantaneously. They tend to have a very elastic and jaunty step with the front and hind feet seeming to move at the same spacing, making their footfalls in the same tracks.

Coat Description
The coat of the Afghan Hound is thick, long and very silky in texture. The hair is uniformly long across the body although adults will have a shorter smoother saddle area that extends along the back and ribs. The legs, chest and flanks and neck have long feathered hair and there is noticeable feathering on the ears. The head has a long and silky topknot that typically parts and falls to both sides of the head. For show the coat is left natural although cuffs may be clipped in long hair above the feet to accentual the size of the feet. Most breeders prefer some pattern or color combination rather than solid colors.

History
The Afghan Hound is an ancient breed that originated in what is now Egypt. There are records of the Afghan Hound going back approximately 4000 years when they were used for hunting as

sight hounds. The dogs had to be able to chase prey and turn instantaneously in harsh terrain and in the mountains. The Afghan Hound moved with nomadic tribes from Egypt into the area now known as Afghanistan where they were used to hunt gazelles and other nimble and fast prey. The long, heavy and thick coat of the Afghan Hound has been developed over centuries to allow this breed to live in the high mountains in the extreme winter conditions found throughout the areas of the Middle East. These dogs remained fairly isolated in with the native tribes of the Afghanistan mountains. They were not brought out of the country until the early 1900's when they were illegally exported from their native country to England. Still a relatively rare and exotic breed the Afghan Hound has been used for hunting, herding, watching, racing and as a show dog.

Temperament
The Afghan Hound, despite it is aristocratic physical appearance is actually a very sweet, loving and playful dog that enjoys human interaction and companionship. They will bond with one or two people in the family and will typically choose to attend to these people rather than responding to commands from everyone. The Afghan Hound is very much like a cat in some aspects of its personality. They need to be able to pick and choose when they want attention and companionship, although this trait will vary greatly between dogs, and males are more aloof typically than females. The Afghan Hound typically is not a good dog in a house with very small children. Despite their large size they can be timid and are often nervous of sudden movements and loud, unpredictable sounds, both of which are traits of most small children. They do enjoy interacting with older kids and are very patient with kids in general. The Afghan Hound is usually good with household pets once they have been socialized and properly introduced, however they will chase strange animals that may come into the yard. Afghan Hounds will have a wide variety of temperaments from timid and high strung if not socialized to a well-adjusted family pet with proper training and socialization. While not a dominant breed of dog they are very sensitive to any type of correction and will typically respond to a simple "no" and then ignoring. The Afghan Hound is a good companion dog although some are not excessively playful once they are out of their puppy stage. There are also some Afghan Hound that continue to love to play, chase and be a clown well into their adulthood. The breed is known for an independent streak which is usually noted by the dog seeming to not hear commands, especially a call to come back when they are out running and playing. Consistent, regular positive interactions and lots of time with the family is the best way to enhance the Afghan Hounds sweet and gentle personality.

Health Problems
The most commonly seen Health Problems noted with the Afghan Hound are typically the heart, eyes and injuries to the tail. Overall the Afghan Hound has a low pain tolerance and they seem to

need a bit of special attention should they have any type of minor injury. The most common Health conditions with the Afghan Hound are: Necrotic myelopathy - a respiratory paralysis that typically occurs at 3 to 6 months of age and will result in death. Ear Mites and Ear infections - this is common with any breed with folded over ears. Allergies - milk Allergies as well as certain food and environmental contaminants and items can result in allergies that will result in hair loss and possible skin infections if there is scratching and licking. Cataracts - eye conditions that may be corrected by surgery and drug therapies. CHD - canine hip dysplasia can be mild to severe and will be gradually degenerative. Tail injuries In addition it is important for owners and vets to be aware that the Afghan Hound is very sensitive to many different types of medications as well as to anesthesia. This is an important consideration when deciding on specific surgical procedures and drug therapies.

Grooming
The long, silky beautiful hair of the Afghan Hound requires regular, daily grooming to keep it in top shape and free from knots and tangles. To keep an Afghan Hounds coat in good shape it will usually take a commitment of several hours of grooming time per week. The breed is never clipped or trimmed on the body or head for show, although the leg cuffs may occasionally be trimmed for show. Typically an Afghan Hound being used as a show dog will be bathed at least once a week, however those that are used as pets will not require bathing this frequently. When grooming a pin brush and a wide toothed grooming comb is usually all that is required. A misting bottle filled with water or water with a few drops of dog hair conditioner or detangler mixed in is a great way to help detangle the coat and stop the coat from tangling back up after brushing. Unlike many breeds the Afghan Hound should be fully bathed before grooming if the coat is soiled, dirty or very matted. Trying to dry groom a coat will lead to more tangles and hair breakage that will significantly damage the appearance of the coat. The coat should always be groomed from the area closest to the skin to the ends of the coat, not from the ends to the roots. Most owners will use a hairdryer to blow the thick coat aside to get to the area next to the skin. Other people choose to simply take their Afghan Hound to the groomer every two weeks for a complete bath and grooming. In addition a "snood" or hood can be used to protect the long hair on the Afghan Hounds ear's from getting into their food and keeping the hair around the head clean.

The commitment to grooming is essential for families or individuals thinking about choosing an Afghan Hound as a pet. These dogs cannot maintain their beautiful coats without regular, time consuming brushing and grooming. Understanding the commitment to grooming and the ongoing requirement is critical.

Exercise
The Afghan Hound is a breed that needs at least two 30-minute blocks of time per day to get out and run in a safe, fenced area. They will run just for the sheer enjoyment of it, with or without companionship. They do, of course, make terrific jogging companions but it is important to remember that jogging is not full out running for these dogs. They need to be able to gallop free and to stretch their muscles. Most breeders recommend at least two hours of exercise per day, with one hour being the absolute minimum the breed can tolerate. The Afghan Hound needs to be exercised in a fenced area, as they will often simply refuse to return while they are running. They will also chase and are often used for lure coursing events. They will chase cars, cats, squirrels and anything else that catches their eye. However, they are also very obedient when trained on the lead, making them simple to walk and exercise on a regular basis. Many Afghan Hounds will let down their aristocratic bearing and join the family in games and romps around the yard. They are not a natural retriever but can be taught to fetch and this can be a good source of exercise. When the Afghan Hound is growing and developing they will often go through growth spurts at which time they are uncoordinated and awkward. It is very important to monitor exercise at this time and not overstress these puppies to prevent muscle and bone development issues.

Training
The Afghan Hound is a very intelligent dog but it does have an independent streak that requires patience and understanding. They need consistent and firm training but should never be treated harshly either in voice or correction as they will quickly become timid and may exhibit signs of becoming very nervous, anxious and high strung. Calm, gentle training as well as an understanding of the breeds needs to run and exercise on a daily basis is essential. The Afghan Hound will often become bored of the same types of routines and training activities. Try to provide as much of a variety as possible. Never punish the dog for being itself, remember they are a hunting breed and have been bred for centuries to chase, manage the environment and always have the dog in a fence or on a leash to prevent run aways. The Afghan Hound is often very difficult to housebreak and because of their large physical size crate training is usually not an option if the dog is beyond his or her puppy stage. Avoid punishing or harshly correcting the dog for accidents in the house, instead work on getting the dog or puppy outside faster and rewarding them for going to the bathroom in the right area.

An obedience class is an ideal option for an Afghan Hound. These classes provide both socialization as well as a way to learn to work with the nature of the dog. Be sure to look for a trainer that has experience in working with this beautiful breed of dog to make the most out of the class.

African Boerboels
Life Span: 12-15 years Group: Mastiff Litter Size: 7-12 puppies per litter Color: reddish brown, cream, all shades of brindle, tawny with or without a black mask with some white on chest acceptable. Hair Length: Short Size: Extra Large Female Height: 23-25.5 inches (59-65 cm) Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height: 25-28 inches (64-70 cm) Female Weight: 154-200 pounds (70 and 90 kg) Male Weight: 154-200 pounds (70 and 90 kg)

Living Area: The African Boerboel does best with a large fenced yard and room to move and exercise.

Description
The African Boerboel is a very large, muscular and impressive looking breed. They are often confused for a cross between a Mastiff and a Bulldog, however they are a unique breed that has been developed in Africa as a protection and working dog. In this breed males are distinctly masculine in appearance as the females are smaller, slighter and should be definitely female in all aspects. The African Boerboel is very distinctive in appearance. The head is very square in shape with a short, thick muzzle and wide massive head. The skull is somewhat flat between the high set ears and there is a stop that is noticeable but not sharp. The ears are triangular and folded, held very close to the head. The eyes are horizontal in orientation and can be any color of brown that is in keeping with the coat color. The skin around the eyes should be dark regardless of the eye color. The area between the eyes is well filled and solid in appearance, as are the noticeable cheeks. The dogs may or may not have a black mask that covers the muzzle and the top lip. The top lip is somewhat fleshy and thick in appearance but should not hang down over the lower jaw. The nose is black with well-developed nostrils. The head is one of the most distinguishing of the African Boerboel breed.

The neck of the African Boerboel is arched and muscular, adding to the breed's appearance of strength and protection. The shoulders of the dog are very well developed and strong, with the neck positioned high on the shoulders. The chest is deep and broad, flowing into a welldeveloped rib cage and a sturdy, yet not chunky or disproportionately heavy looking body. The front legs are completely straight when viewed from the side or the front and end in thick padded, ball-shaped feet. The top line is very straight without any noticeable sloping. The back is moderately long but balanced in appearance. The hindquarters are slightly sloping towards the high set tail. The tail is traditionally docked to the first three joints, but may also be left long and natural, in which case it curves up at the hock. The back legs are incredibly powerful with heavy muscling that is common in the Mastiff breeds. The legs should be well bent and carried under the hindquarters and unlike the front legs they should not be straight. The African Boerboel should move with purpose and a "buoyant" step. They have a fluid and athletic gait, not a heavy or shuffling gait. Their joints are well developed and not loose or bulky. They do not have the heavy wrinkles or deep folds of skin seen on many of the Mastiff breeds, however there will be slight wrinkling of the thick skin on the brow.

Coat Description
The coat of the African Boerboel is uniformly short, relatively coarse and dense. It is easy to care for and requires very little grooming or bathing on a regular basis.

History
The African Boerboel has developed from several different breeds being crossed with the large Molusses type dogs brought by the Dutch throughout different areas in Africa. The original breed of dog brought to the Cape of Africa by Jan van Riebeeck in 1652 was known as a bullenbijter, and is considered to be a Mastiff type dog although not as large as some of the Mastiffs now seen. This dog then bred with the local dogs, producing several different types of hardy and strong dogs that virtually had to survive on their own. In 1820 when the English came to Africa they also brought large, mastiff type dogs as well as bulldogs. These dogs were bred with the already existing mastiff types. It is known that De Beers mining company brought champion line Mastiffs to Africa to work as guard dogs in the diamond mines, and they were crossed with the best of the local breeds. The English Bulldog and Bull Mastiff are considered key bloodlines in the development of the breed. Currently the African Boerboel is bred worldwide. They have to pass health tests as well as be vet checked before they can be registered with the South African Boerboel Breeders Association. This Association was formed in the 1980s to prevent the continued crossbreeding of the African Boerboel that was resulting in a decrease in the number of actual African Boerboels, even in Africa.

Temperament
The African Boerboel is a bit of a study in opposites. As a fierce and loyal watchdog they will bark and loudly announce strangers and strange animals in the area, however they will quickly learn who is friend and welcome them into the house when they have been introduced. The African Boerboel is also a guard dog, using their size and strength to defend their property and family with as much aggression and physical action as required. They are very protective of their yard and house and care must be taken to keep these dogs securely in a fence, as they will expand their area to protect should they get out of the fence or yard. The African Boerboel is a very loving family dog. They absolutely enjoy spending time with the family. Despite their aggression towards strangers the African Boerboel will play and romp with everyone in the family and are especially good with children. They are very tolerant of even rough play with kids and their large size makes them great companions for kids of all ages. The African Boerboel is exceptionally gentle with younger children although as with all dogs young kids should never be left alone unsupervised. They also tend to be very accepting of other pets including dogs, cats and even other small pets and livestock. Proper socialization is key for these dogs to help them learn how to differentiate between potential dangers and friendly visitors. The African Boerboel will typically be somewhat standoffish with new people, at least until they learn that they are to be considered a "friend". This is very important if the dogs need to be cared for if the family has to leave or if they have to be kenneled. Ensure that this breed has time to get to know their caregiver before leaving them with someone other than a family member.

Health Problems
The African Boerboel is a very healthy breed due to the selective Breeding of the original dogs in Africa. In addition the African Boerboel has largely had to survive as a breed without veterinary care or specialized treatments, providing a sort of natural selection process. There are two different conditions that may be problematic in the breed although they are not fatal. The first condition occurs only in females and is VH or vaginal hyperplasia. This condition is genetic and occurs in different grades or levels of severity. Any female with abnormal tissue development of the vaginal area should not be used in breeding programs. The second genetic condition that is found in the breed is common in most dog breeds and is found in both males and females. Canine hip dysplasia or CHD as well as elbow dysplasia can be checked by vet examination and should be completed before the dog is used in a breeding program.

Grooming
The short, dense and thick coat of the African Boerboel is easy to care for. They can be groomed once or twice a week using a heavy pin brush or stiff bristle brush. Regular grooming both removes dead hair from the coat as well as massages the skin, allowing for increased circulation. The coat can also be groomed using a grooming mitt that is easy for even kids to use to help with the grooming routine. During the grooming routine the African Boerboel should be carefully checked for any signs of

fleas or ticks should they be present in the area. Fleas are often first noted by small, dried blood flecks in the coat next to the skin that are known as "flea dirt". The owner may also notice the dog licking, scratching or rubbing at the coat. Ticks are blood-sucking insects that will attach themselves to the skin of the dog, usually in areas such as the inner legs, ears and around the lower jaw. Fleas can be treated with monthly topical applications, flea powders and flea collars and ticks can be removed with the fingers or with tick pullers, similar in appearance to tweezers. The African Boerboel can also benefit from routine dental care. Just like with humans, tartar and plaque can build up on a dog's teeth, resulting in early tooth loss, bad breath and even infections in the mouth. Brushing the African Boerboel's teeth using a finger sleeve or specially designed dog toothbrush as well as dog toothpaste will help minimize tooth decay and prevent the need for costly tooth de-scaling procedures. Bathing the African Boerboel can be done whenever necessary using dog quality shampoo and following with a conditioner. Avoid over bathing as this can cause the hair to dry out and the skin to become dry and flaky. Some African Boerboel may also have an allergic reaction to some shampoos and conditioners, even specialized dog products. In these cases an oatmeal shampoo may help soothe and clean the skin without any irritation. The nails of the African Boerboel are very hard and durable and with regular exercising on hard surface the nails should stay trimmed naturally. If they need trimming a set of slotted scissor style trimmers or guillotine style trimmers are the most effective. Avoid using any type of human nail clippers as this can cause the nails to shatter and splinter.

Exercise
The African Boerboel, despite its large size, doesn't require a great deal of specialized exercise. They are good at exercising themselves if they have a large, fenced yard as they will patrol the area, ensuring that everything is safe. They play and interact with other dogs that are companions, providing additional exercise without any effort on the part of the owner. The African Boerboel is a great walking and jogging companion. They love to go with family members and are typically well behaved when out of the yard provided they are properly trained and socialized. As with all large breeds, especially those that are protective, it is very important to ensure that the dog is completely under control at all times. They can be intimidating but their calm behavior once people get to know them will quickly put people at ease. A favorite pastime of the African Boerboel is fetching and playing with the kids or adults in the household. They love to spend long periods of time chasing a ball or stick and bringing it back. A naturally affectionate dog the African Boerboel is usually willing to do whatever the family enjoys providing the dog is involved. They do travel well although they do take up a large area of a vehicle. As African Boerboel mature they become less active overall, so it is important to ensure that they receive structured, regular exercise is the owner notices they are staying inactive outdoors or are

gaining weight without any changes in food or feeding habits. Regular exercise will help the African Boerboel lead a healthy and happy life.

Training
The African Boerboel is an intelligent dog that is very eager to work with the owner. They do have the tendency to try to dominate the owner until a hierarchy is developed. These dogs must learn as puppies that the owner is the boss, rather than allowing the dog to think that they are making the decisions about what he or she will do. This does not mean that the owner has to be mean or harsh with the puppy, rather they need to be firm and consistent and prevent the dog from developing any bad habits such as ignoring commands or "doing their own thing". The sheer size and weight of the African Boerboel combined with its natural protectiveness and guard dog tendencies means that the African Boerboel must be under control at all times. An untrained or poorly trained African Boerboel is a potentially dangerous animal if it ever gets out of the yard or fenced area. Obedience training is recommended at a very early age and socialization should be a key component of the training. Since this breed is a large dog and does have a tendency to be dominant it is not recommended as a first dog for a family. If you do not have experience in working with dominant types of dogs a African Boerboel from a rescue that is already trained and socialized may be a great option rather than trying to train and manage a puppy through the difficult teen years. The African Boerboel is not typically a problem barker. They can tolerate being in a kennel for short periods of time but may become prone to chewing, barking or digging if confined in a small space for long periods of time. The African Boerboel does best in training with a combination of exercise and training rather than just set training times. Allowing for play time and fun time during training helps with the bonding process as well as allows the dog to break the focus into shorter, more concentrated times.

Airedale Terriers
Life Span: 10-13 years Litter Size: 8-12 with an average of 9 puppies per litter Color: black body with tan markings on the legs, head, chest and tail. A small white patch on the chest is acceptable as is a slight amount of red in the black parts of the body. Hair Length: Medium, Short Size: Large Shedding: Moderate Shed, Heavy Shed Male Height: 22-24 inches (56-61 cm) Group: Terrier, AKC Terrier

Male Weight: 50-65 pounds (23-29 kg)

Female Weight: 40-45 pounds (18-20 kg)

Female Height: 22-23 inches (56-58 cm) Living Area: Since the Airedale Terrier is a very active dog and will be active indoors they are not recommended for small spaces and apartment life. They do need a yard and a fenced area for exercise on a frequent and regular basis throughout the day.

Description
The Airedale Terrier is a large and very lively terrier that is often known as the "king of terriers". They are excellent companion dogs as well as hunting, agility, obedience and even police and military dogs. They can be very playful and attentive to their owners but can also be serious workers, an excellent combination for a great all-round dog. The Airedale Terrier should have a smooth yet jaunty kind of gait that shows good power and athletic ability. The overall impression should be one of excellent conformation and straight and parallel legs with no turning in or out of the hocks, elbows or feet. The body should be short and compact with very little space between the final rib and the hip joint. The loins and hind legs should be muscular and strong with good driving ability. The top line or line along the back should be straight from the withers to the rather high set tail with no slope or drop of the hindquarters. The tail should taper from the base to the tip and should be carried pointed straight up and slightly forward but not curled or touching the back. The front quarters and the chest should be well developed with the chest deep but not broad. The brisket should extend down to the level of the elbows. The shoulders should be clean and tight to the body, sloping and muscular and blending well into the chest and back. The neck is placed high in the shoulders and moderately long, wider at the shoulders and tapering slightly to the base of the throat. The skin on the neck should not be loose or folded but should be tight the muscles. The head is carried very high, proud and erect on the neck. The foreface and the skull should be approximately the same length giving a balanced appearance. The profile is almost rectangular in shape without a noticeable or pronounced stop. There should be no wrinkling on the skin of the head and the cheeks should be noticeable but not heavy or pronounced. The ears are triangular in shape and proportional to the head, folded over about at the top of the skull. The ears are actually positioned to the side of the head, as are the small, dark and very lively and alert looking eyes. The eyes should be typical of a terrier, full of fearlessness and intelligence. The mouth and lips are fine in feature and the lips are close to the teeth. The muzzle tapers very slightly to the dark and well developed nose. The breed has a noticeable beard and moustache giving the muzzle a very angular appearance. They also have bushy eyebrows that add to the expressiveness of the face. The coat is wavy or crinkly in appearance and comes in various shades of black and tan with a black saddle and tan points.

Coat Description

The double coat of the Airedale Terrier consists of a wavy to kinky harsh outer coat over a thicker, denser and softer inner coat. The coat is uniformly medium to short in length across the body but there is longer fringe on the beard and front and rear legs. They require stripping for show but may be clipped for ease of care at home.

History
The Airedale Terrier originated in the area near the River Aire in Scotland in the early 1800's. Farmers that needed a larger sized terrier that could double as a ratter as well as a hunting dog crossed the largest of the medium sized mixed terriers available with Otterhounds, resulting in a taller, leggier terrier that had better swimming abilities as well as scent tracking abilities. These dogs were later used to hunt more than just vermin, they became police and military dogs in the First World War and also were used to hunter large game in several countries including England, Canada and the United States. They were also used in safari type hunts in India. The Airedale Terrier has been used in many different movies and television shows because it is distinctive, intelligent and very willing to be the center of attention. They are also very serious dogs and make excellent police, obedience and agility dogs on top of their hunting abilities. The large size of the Airedale Terrier may have prevented it from becoming as popular as some of the smaller terriers but it is still well represented in shows and in registries across the world.

Temperament
The Airedale Terrier is a very lively and energetic terrier that does have the tendency to be the dominant dog as well as the leader in the family if not properly trained and socialized. They are extremely intelligent and will quickly learn both commands and how to get out following commands so firm and consistent training is a must. The Airedale Terrier is a good family dog and will interact well with children of all ages. Since they are a large terrier they do need to be taught not to be overly possessive of toys or food as well as to avoid snapping when teased or irritated. Teaching children to respect this dog and to watch when the dog has simply had enough is very important. As with all terriers the Airedale Terrier has an independent and rather headstrong streak that can become a problem during training. Typically this is worse in intact males that have not been obedience trained and have had little socialization as a puppy. It is important to purchase an Airedale Terrier from a breeder that starts early socialization and can provide information on the tendencies of the breed. While an excellent obedience dog when trained, they are not always a good choice for a first time dog owner that wishes to raise a dog from a puppy. An Airedale Terrier from a rescue that is already trained and has learned the basics may be a better choice. The Airedale Terrier can learn to get along with other pets although some simply have difficulty living in the same house with other non-canine pets. Puppies are generally more accepting of cats than mature dogs that have not had cats in the house. The Airedale Terrier will be a good companion dog to a non-dominant breed but two dominant type breeds will fight. Spaying and

neutering and choosing a companion dog of the opposite gender that is also spayed or neutered is the best possible option.

Health Problems
Most terrier breeds are very healthy dogs and the Airedale Terrier is no exception. They do require regular vaccinations, worming and flea treatments as well as Routine vet checks to catch any potential Health issues before they become advanced or highly problematic. The biggest health issues for the Airedale Terrier include: Canine hip dysplasia - genetic joint and hip condition found in most medium and large breeds of dogs. Gastric torsion - also known as Bloat. Feeding three small meals and restricting Exercise can help prevent this potentially fatal condition. Surgically stitching the stomach in place during Spaying or Neutering can also help if it is a chronic problem. Dry skin conditions - may be caused by a shortage of omega-3 fatty acids that can be added to the Diet. Skin Allergies - problematic in many breeds of dogs, can be treated by antihistamines and food changes.

Grooming
Despite the short, wiry wavy and dense outer coat and the thick, wooly undercoat shedding can be minimized with the Airedale Terrier with regular stripping, a process of plucking the long, dead hairs from the coat. Without stripping and regular, three to four times weekly brushing the Airedale Terrier is a moderate to heavy shedder and the coat may be prone to matting and tangling. Airedale Terriers that are not being used in the show ring are often professionally clipped or clipped by owners to prevent shedding and upkeep of the coat. A uniformly short clip known as a puppy clip is typically the choice of most owners. The hair on the beard and on the eyebrows is left long and natural to allow the distinctive appearance of the Airedale Terrier to show through, but the coat on the body is short. Grooming the Airedale Terrier usually requires a grooming rake or pin bristle brush followed by a stiff bristle brush. It is important to brush the undercoat, not just the wiry overcoat as the undercoat is where the mats are most likely to be found. Check between the pads of the feet, behind the front legs and around the rump area to remove any mats or debris that can lead to the formation of mats. It is also important to wipe and wash the beard after eating as the longer, stiff hairs will trap food and this can lead to discoloration as well as a bad odor. Check the ears, eyes and teeth at every grooming and use a good quality dog toothpaste and finger sleeve to gently

brush the teeth. The nails will also need regular maintenance and clipping if the dog is not exercised on a hard surface that will keep them naturally worn down.

Exercise
The Airedale Terrier requires a lot of space for exercise, however they will self-exercise like most terriers. They will run and explore the yard as well as patrol the perimeter as a watchdog. The Airedale Terrier loves to run and romp with the family and they enjoy games and just being involved in what is going on. Airedale Terriers typically enjoy games such as fetch, tag and even tug of war. Care needs to be taken to avoid engaging the dominant or independent Airedale Terrier in games of strength such as tug of war as this may reinforce the dog's dominance or willingness to compete with the owner. Consider playing games such as fetch, hide and seek or even jogging or running with the dog to give it exercise as well as avoid any dominance building activities with the dog. Using the Airedale Terrier in competitions such as agility and obedience is a great way to provide both exercise as well as mental stimulation. Airedale Terriers that don't have enough challenge mentally and physically in their lives have a tendency to become destructive. This is often displayed by chewing, digging and barking, including tearing things apart inside the house and even outside in the yard. With proper exercise and training the Airedale Terrier will be well behaved and well-mannered in the house and can tolerate some time alone provided exercise is provided before they are left. Since the Airedale Terrier may be somewhat dog aggressive and may also have a tendency to chase other dogs, cats or animals it is essential to keep them on a leash when outside of the fenced yard. As a hunting dog they may tend to get so involved in the hunt they simply don't respond when called to return.

Training
The Airedale Terrier is a strong, intelligent and very alert dog that is capable of becoming an excellent dog for obedience and agility training provided they are treated fairly and consistently and have an owner that understands how to work with a dominant type of dog. They are not always easy to train often going through a period in the "teen years" of being very headstrong and wilful; although they are not aggressive towards people they can become standoffish if treated harshly during training. Positive, consistent training is key with this breed as well as keeping them challenged both physically and mentally. The Airedale Terrier has a huge exercise requirement especially in their first two to three years. Training must follow a lengthy, intensive exercise time or the young dog or puppy will simply be too distracted to follow commands and will simply want to play. They are naturally very engaging dogs so it is important to not allow their clown-like behaviour and enthusiasm for play detract from the training program. Often an obedience class is recommended by breeders to help the owners and dog learn to work together. The Airedale Terrier will learn good habits as well as bad and this can sometimes be challenging to correct. Training right the first way is much easier

than retraining for a bad habit. The Airedale Terrier is a dominant breed of dog and can become dog aggressive if not socialized from a very early age. They also are a hunting dog and need early, supervised socialization with other types of pets if the owner wants a cat or bird in the house. Once socialized with non-canine pets they are playful and typically will do very well, however they will chase cats that aren't family pets at almost every opportunity.

Akbash Dogs
Life Span: 10-11 years Litter Size: 7 puppies
Group: Flock Guard, Working Dog (UKC) Color: White

Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height: 30-34 in Male Weight: 90-130 lbs (40-60 kg) Female Height: 28-32 in (71-81 cm)
Female Weight: 90-130 lbs (40-60 kg)

Hair Length: Long, Short Size: Large, Extra Large

Description
The Akbash Dog is a powerful, large dog with a noble bearing and a distinctive white, feathered coat. Two varieties of the dog exist: a medium-haired variant with a flat, sleek coat, and a longhaired variant (bred for colder environments) with a heavy, wavy coat and a feathery "ruff" around its neck. The dogs have blunt, largish skulls with V-shaped ears, long tails, and gentle brown eyes. Long-haired Akbash Dogs are better for colder environments, while short-haired Akbash Dogs will be fine in warmer weather.

Coat Description
The Akbash Dog can have either a long or a short coat, invariable white. In either case, there's both an outer and an inner coat, the inner coat composed of soft, fine hairs to insulate against harsh weather. The short-coated Akbash dog's fur is usually straight and flat with only slight feathering around the neck and legs, while the long-coated Akbash dog's far is usually wavy with heavy feathering on the legs and a distinctive, lion-like "ruff" around the neck.

History
The Akbash Dog is most likely one of the older breeds still existing today, and much of its history remains mysterious. The Akbash Dog's white coat (which gives the breed its name, "akbash" meaning "white head" in Turkish) implies to some scholars that the dog was bred to

blend in with its flocks, making it seem less threatening and making it easier for the dog to catch predators--the white Akbash would be less visible from a distance, making predators less likely to use their cunning in order to sneak members of the flock away from under the dog's long nose. This theory is backed up by the Akbash's sister breed, the Karabash ("black head"), which is commonly used for flocking and herding in areas where an all-black coloration would serve the same camouflaging purposes. Despite the longevity, proud temperament, and striking appearance of the breed, it has yet to find popular acceptance in dog breeding circles. The United Kennel Club formally recognized the Akbash Dog as a breed in 1999, but many other kennel clubs worldwide have thus far remained on the fence. Due to the breed's growing popularity in North America, Akbash Dogs International has formed as a rival kennel organization to ensure genetic regularity over the breed for dog owners outside of the breed's native Turkey.

Temperament
The Akbash Dog is a proud beast, bred to be the guard of his or her pack of flocking animals. The Akbash ensures instant obedience on the part of the flock and a much easier time of protecting the dog's charges from predators. But it can be an extremely challenging quality when it comes to training an Akbash, or simply for using it as a family companion dog. The Akbash Dog does well under human authority when that authority is clear and decisive, but when the Akbash's masters show signs of inconsistency or weakness, the Akbash is quick to challenge for pack supremacy. This holds true even after the Akbash is adequately trained during its puppy years--challenges for dominance happen throughout the dog's life, and although the dog is content to remain in a lower position in the hierarchy for a long time, he or she isn't content to remain in that lower position when a higher position--your position--becomes available. So consistency in training and handling is always required of any successful Akbash Dog owner. The Akbash Dog does very well with other animals. Any aggressive behavior on the part of the other animal will usually be put down quickly (and non-violently) by the Akbash Dog, and nonagressive behavior will be tolerated. Other aggressive dogs (or other aggressive Akbash Dogs) are the most problematic in this department, and naturally submissive dogs--including the submissive personality variant of the Akbash Dog--will make the best companions for this breed. Akbash Dogs have a strong bonding instinct with other animals, and the earlier an Akbash Dog is exposed to another animal, the more likely it is to form a protective bond. The Akbash Dog also does well with children, usually thinking of them naturally as members of the flock to be protected. Because of the breed's obsession with pack hierarchy, however, children should not be allowed too much contact with the Akbash Dog during crucial periods in the dog's development--most importantly from six to twelve months, but to a lesser extent for the first two years of its life. The Akbash Dog spends much of this period of time "acting out", constantly challenging pack authority, and children can become the unwitting targets of this dominant behavior. Although this doesn't usually mean potential harm to your children, it can mean an erosion of the Akbash Dog's vital training, and should thus be avoided.

Akbash Dogs are not the most energetic dogs in the world as a rule, being bred to spend most of their time resting and guarding their flocks. But they are capable of exuberant behavior on occasion (particularly in early developmental years), and they do need regular exercise in order to keep them healthy and happy. An Akbash Dog who's kept indoors for too long typically becomes listless and dispirited, eliminating much of the quiet charm of the breed. As a herd guarding dog, the Akbash Dog thrives on the presence and companionship of humans. Although it can function for moderate periods of time alone--being bred to act independently as a flock guard without much human intervention--it will always do better with other "pack members" as constant companions, and can't be left alone for too long without human contact. Dogs behave destructively when they feel themselves abandoned, and with such a potent destructive force as the hundred-plus pound Akbash Dog, it's important to keep that destructive behavior to a minimum whenever possible by ensuring adequate contact with your dog.

Health Problems
The Akbash Dog is extremely healthy, with isolated cases of hip dysplasia (common to all larger dogs) and joint inflammation ( osteochondritis dissecans ). Akbash Dogs International requires a hip screening as part of its breed standard, and efforts are being made to reduce genetic joint conditions from the overall Breeding stock.

Grooming
Because the Akbash Dog was bred as a guardian dog, meant to spend most of its time outdoors with its charges, its coat has developed to the point where it requires little maintenance. The hard outer coat will usually not mat or tangle, but a weekly brushing in order to remove those mats or tangles that do occur isn't a bad idea. Brushing will also alleviate shedding to some extent, which can be a problem with this breed--particularly in its longer-coated variety. Whichever coat variety your dog sports, however, you'll still have to deal with periodic shedding of the insulating undercoat, usually twice a year during seasonal changes in the weather of your region. Bathing your Akbash Dog is challenging (and usually unnecessary), but in the event of extreme problems with cleanliness (heavy mud, muck, or other unsavory problems that the dog can't easily clean him or herself), you can rely on an outdoor bath and shampoo. This shouldn't be done regularly, however, since shampooing and water can sometimes damage the protective qualities of the Akbash Dog's coat, leaving you with a less healthy and less beautiful dog in the end.

Exercise
Despite the musculature and size of this dog, the Akbash Dog is not very active. This makes sense when viewed in the context of the breed's intended purpose: Akbash Dogs were expected to travel slowly and carefully with a flock when it was on the move, and to lie quietly with the flock when it was at rest to better protect it from predators. Because of these genetic tendencies, the breed today is likely to prefer lounging to rambunctious activity--no doubt a plus to some

owners who are concerned about providing adequate excitement for this large and unwieldylooking dog. But the Akbash Dog does have the capacity for high-energy exercising, and will require this kind of activity on a regular basis in order to stay healthy and happy. A fenced yard is the best way to give your Akbash Dog this kind of exercise, and the dogs should be allowed about two hours every day of free play in their enclosure. By "fenced yard" we don't mean a typical suburban backyard: in order to run and play adequately, an Akbash Dog will usually require at least half an acre of open space. Leash exercise (daily walks or runs) is less important for the Akbash Dog than for many other breeds, and should only be relied on when the Akbash's other play and exercise environments are temporarily unavailable (if the fence is being repaired, say.) The Akbash Dog's proud disposition will tend to make it less active when on the leash, and although he or she will no doubt appreciate the exercise, he or she will get less out of it than they would an open play environment.

Training
Akbash Dogs are very pack-oriented and will take well to training, provided that you adapt your training style to the personality type of the dog. All dogs come in two basic personality variants-submissive and dominant--but with Akbash Dogs, the split between these is much more pronounced, and successful training will depend on a successful assessment of your Akbash Dog early in its life. Training submissive dogs is easier, and requires only the basics of dog training in order to be successful: consistent commands, a focus on positive rewards for good behavior rather than strict, negative correction for bad behavior, and of course patience. Training dominant dogs, however, requires you to do more than this. A dominant Akbash Dog is a guardian dog, and naturally assumes a dominant role in his "pack" of herding animals. If you don't assert your dominance--and maintain it, despite the dominant Akbash Dog's frequent challenges to authority--then you'll be unable to control or trust your Akbash Dog. So stricter measures need to be taken with Akbash Dogs, and you shouldn't be afraid of using some light negative measures to correct for bad or authority-challenging behavior. Control over the feeding of your dog--refusing to feed your Akbash Dog until he or she performs commands appropriately--may seem harsh, but is one of the most effective ways to ensure that the dog views you as its master rather than as a potential rival in the pack hierarchy. A stern tone of voice is also useful, and a willingness to physically restrain the dog from performing anti-social or destructive acts is necessary in order to quickly correct for this kind of behavior. The dogs should be restrained until they show signs of submission--rolling over to show their stomach, for example, or licking/begging behaviors. It's important to start this heavy training early in the dog's life simply for practical reasons--while it's easy to physically restrain a twenty-pound Akbash puppy, it's much more difficult to restrain a hundred-pound mature dog. The earlier you eliminate problematic behaviors, then the easier you'll have it when it comes to aggressive behavior in later life.

The period of time between six months and a year in your Akbash puppy's life are critical ones for training, and will probably require the most effort on your part in order to ensure good behavior as an adult dog. Akbash Dogs shouldn't be left unattended with children or other animals during this time, as their natural rebelliousness and challenging disposition could lead to serious problems with discipline or extremely unwanted behavior. In order to ensure that the Akbash knows that he or she is lower in the pack hierarchy, make sure to keep a short metaphorical leash on your dog during this crucial period of time. If you do your work adequately early on, then your Akbash Dog will be all right for the most part as an adult. Periodic challenges to the pack authority will still occur, however, and you need to be aware of these and willing to combat these as soon as they happen in order to ensure that the work you put into early training isn't compromised by later lapses in authority.

Living Area: Akbash Dogs were most likely bred in wide open areas, and those same wide open areas are still their ideal living environment. The dogs will not do well in urban apartments or suburban houses, and will become listless and dispirited if kept indoors for too long a time. When kept in rural or sparsely-populated suburban areas, they should be given a large fenced area for exercise.

Alapha Blue Blood Bulldogs

Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size: 4-8 puppies per litter Group:Working, Mastiff Color:All colors and pattern acceptable with red and blue merle with white, chocolate or liver and white or any parti-color acceptable. Hair Length:Short Female Weight:often less than 60 pounds Living Area:The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is an inactive dog indoors so can adjust to both apartment and house life. They do need regular outside exercise and a large, securely fenced yard is the best possible option for the breed. Size:Large, Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24 inches (61 cm) Male Weight:100 pounds (47 kg) Female Height:22 inches (61 cm)

Description

The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is one of the last remaining breeds that are typical of the original bulldogs from England that were used as "plantation dogs", guarding and watching these large tracts of land in the southern United States. While a descendent of bulldogs the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is different and separate from English Bulldogs and is not just a physical variation of another breed. These dogs exhibit all the bulldog features except in a more exaggerated form. They are taller and leggier than most bulldog breeds and are also more athletic and energetic than many of the traditional bulldog breeds. Despite the ongoing debate about this breed that has been developed by one family and from one particular stud dog, Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog lovers staunchly support the breed. They have been regularly infused with bulldog blood throughout the breed development although they are unique in both physical description as well as temperament. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is a tall breed often measuring 24 inches at the shoulders. They have a good leg length and are powerful yet also lean and athletic in appearance. The hips are slightly narrower than the broad and deep chest giving the streamlined appearance. The legs are well boned and muscled and should be straight and parallel on the front and well bent at the hocks on the rear. The feet are large, cat like and well arched. The dewclaws on the front and back legs are always left on unless they become injured or there is some complication. The males and females of the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog are very different with males much larger, often up to twice as heavy as the females. Both tend to have the muscular bodies and broad bulldog heads but the females have a more feminine appearance that should be evident. The head is broad and typically bulldog in shape with a noticeable stop, short muzzle and prominent, large eyes. The eyes may be blue or brown or may be mismatched or spotted, with blue spotting in brown or vice versa. Many will have a merle or blue spot over the eye that is common in the breed. The coat is very short and thick with various colors and patterns seen within the breed. Merles are very common but solid colors are considered a fault. The lips are loose and rather long which makes the breed somewhat prone to drooling. The ears and tail of the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog are left natural and long, never docked. The ears are moderately long and triangular, set to the side of the head and folding over to approximately the lower jaw. The tail is long and tapered and carried parallel to the ground when the dog is in motion.

Coat Description
The coat is short, harsh and dense, uniformly covering the body. There is no feathering on the legs or tail and the coat has a natural sheen. Glass eyes (blue) or marble eyes (brown and blue mixed in one eye) or mixed blue and brown eye colors all acceptable. If the dog is brindle there can only be 50% of the body covered by the brindle coloration. The breed should not be solid color or have a black mask on the face. Patches on the eye or on one eye are acceptable.

History
The original "Plantation Dogs" were historically used on the large southern plantations in the state of Georgia in the United States. These dogs were bulldogs and mastiff type local and European breeds that were brought in by the plantation owners to guard the slaves that were working on the plantation as well as protect the house from intruders and wild animals such as cougars, coyotes and wolves. After slavery was abolished the need for the old style of plantation dog decreased dramatically and only a few were left in the area, largely used as companion and protection dogs. The Lane family of Rebecca, Georgia in the Alapaha River Valley began breeding to retain the old plantation dog temperament and appearance. Lana Lou Lane is largely credited with establishing Circle K Kennels that made the applications to have the breed registered with the American Rare Breeds Association in 1986. There is considerable debate about the various lines and where breeding stock was obtained for the development of the kennel and breeding program. Ms. Lane passed away in 2001, at which time the kennel was sold. There are few records of the original breeding program, especially since the kennel was family run. There are now more breeders of this unique breed, although they are typically located within the same geographical area as the original breeder.

Temperament
As a rare breed of dog the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is not commonly found in most areas. They are reported be an excellent companion dog as well as a protector that will loyally and fiercely protect their family from any type of danger. Although they are a protective breed they are not considered to be aggressive and will not typically attack or protect unless they are provoked or are on their own territory. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is a very trainable dog that is extremely intelligent, calm and accepting of family and pets. While they will chase and do have some prey instinct they can also be trained to accept cats and other dogs in the family. Typically the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog will be somewhat of a dominant type of dog so it is strongly recommended to have them spayed or neutered if not being used for breeding purposes and pair them with an opposite gender, nondominant spayed or neutered companion dog. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is great with children and has an amazing tolerance for kids of all ages. They are, however, highly protective of kids so it is important to introduce these dogs to friends and kid's playmates to avoid any misunderstand on the part of the dog. While a large and active dog the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is very quiet and relaxed when in the house. They will usually find a quiet space beside their owner and simply watch what is going on, always vigilant and attentive to their environment and the needs of their family. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog will bond very strongly with the family and needs to be able to keep people in sight. Although they can be outdoors in a well fenced and secure area in moderate climates they really do prefer to be part of the family.

The breed enjoys going for walks and outings, although it is very important to have them well trained and keep them on a lead at all times. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog will defend the owner from strange dogs that approach, often with very negative consequences so leash training, socialization and obedience training is essential if these dogs are to be taken out of a fenced area.

Health Problems
The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is from a very limited bloodline, all stemming from one kennel and one stud dog named Otto. There is, therefore, concern among breeders regarding genetic conditions that may occur with line Breeding and inbreeding. Careful monitoring of the rare breed has largely prevented this from becoming an issue, however there is a high percentage of the less than 200 purebred Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldogs that have an eye condition known as Entropion. This is a condition where the lower eyelid turns or rolls inward, resulting in eye irritations and possible blindness if not treated. Surgical procedures can correct this condition and, when caught early, there is no long-term damage to the eye. Deafness may also be a problem in the breed and with the decreasing number of registered Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldogs there is likely to be more genetic conditions found within future litters. Many breeders are now working with other rare bulldog type breeds to try to expand the genetic pool while keeping the physical characteristics and temperament that define the breed.

Grooming
Grooming the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is very simple as their short, dense and rather coarse coat is easy to care for. All that is required is regular twice a week grooming with a stiff bristle brush or a rubberized grooming mitt. Grooming mitts are very easy to use as they slip on the hand and you simply stroke the dog's hair in the direction of hair growth. The texturized, rubber surface grips the dead hair and removes it from the coat. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is an average shedder throughout the year. Regular grooming will help prevent the build-up of shed hair on the carpet and furniture. The breed can also benefit from regular full baths once or twice a month to help cut down on the "doggy" smell that may be noticeable with the breed. Full bathing with a good quality dog shampoo and using a good quality dog hair conditioner will help prevent the skin from drying out. While grooming watch for any signs of ear infections that are usually first discovered by the foul spelling smell coming from the ear area. Treatment usually involves washing the outer areas of the ear with warm water and a wax removal ointment that can be purchased from the vet. More cleaning may be required for severe infections and the vet may clean the ear and require antibiotics in the form of ear drops to completely cure the infection in the inner ear. Nails are usually very hard and durable with the breed and usually will require little care if the dog is exercised on a hard surface on a regular basis. For those dogs on soft surfaces the nails should be clipped whenever they become long enough to cause any type of pressure against the pads. Clipping with a guillotine style special dog nail trimmer is recommended. Never use

human nail care products, as this will cause the nail to shatter and cause the dog pain. Always be sure not to accidentally nick or cut the quick of the nail, as this will cause profuse bleeding and pain. Always have some Quickstop or other clotting agent incase of accidental injury when clipping the nails.

Exercise
The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is a dog that has a history of being outside and being very active in patrolling the property as a protective dog. They are normally very inactive indoors and do need regular, structured exercise or long periods of time outside per day to stay healthy and prevent excessive weight gain and obesity from becoming a problem. They are good at selfexercising so are not a huge demand on the owner for exercise with the outside time option. The breed is very protective and will need to be kept within a secure, strong and tall fence at all times. Since they are athletic they can jump and climb, although with enough space to explore in the yard they are very content. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog prefers to have some exercise time with the family as well as just being outside in the yard. They love to play with the kids and will romp and play for hours chasing the ball or just running and jogging alongside the kids. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog makes a good jogging companion and has excellent stamina. They will, of course, need to be well trained and kept on a leash or lead at all times when out of the fenced yard. Since many people have a fear of any type of dog that resembles the bulldog type do to irresponsible owners, it is always important to have the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog under control at all times. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is a good dog for camping and hiking and they can also make good hunting companions and may even be used in obedience events.

Training
Training the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is very easy since the dog is so intelligent and willing. They are naturally very protective so training should focus on enhancing obedience to allow the owner to be able to call off the dog when required. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is not a problem barker but if bored and unattended too may resort to barking. Since they have a very deep and loud bark, this can quickly become a problem. Obedience training from the youngest possible age is a must for this breed. Socialization should be a key part of training and should include introducing the puppy to different dogs, new environments and various people. The more socialized these dogs are the less likely they will be to demonstrate any type of aggression unless they are protecting the residence. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is not a highly dominant breed but they can be somewhat stubborn and independent in training. A trainer or owner should never be harsh or aggressive in training with the breed, rather using positive training rewards and using the dog's natural love of human interaction is the most effective training method.

Akitas

Life Span: 10 and 12 years Litter Size: 3 to 12 puppies with the average litter being 7 or 8 Group: Working Group

Size: Large, Extra Large Shedding: Moderate Shed, Heavy Shed Male Height: 26-28 inches (66-71 cm) Male Weight: 75-120 pounds (34-54 kg)

Color: The Japanese Akita has only four different colors and they are brindle, white, sesame (i.e. hair that is red and has black tips), and red fawn.

Female Height: 24-26 inches (61-66 cm) Female Weight: 75-110 pounds (34-50 kg)

Hair Length: Medium Living Area:Akitas are very adaptable dogs and can adjust to different living conditions provided they are given frequent, regular exercise. They do best in a house with a large, fenced yard and shelter from the sun and cold. In very hot climates they should be kept indoor during the heat of the day.

Description
The Akita is truly a powerful and majestic looking dog with an overall calm and very even disposition. The Akita is a large breed, with males often weighing over one hundred pounds and standing up to twenty-eight inches at the shoulder. The Akita is best recognized by its almost bear shaped head as well as the tightly curled tail that is symbolic of the Spitz breeds. The head of the Akita is very alert and intelligent looking. The eyes are dark, rather deep set and triangular shaped, as are the wide set, pricked ears. There is a broad and wide shape to the forehead, with a slight groove running from the stop to the top of the head. The muzzle is strong looking and relatively short, ending in a well formed black nose on most Akitas, although mostly white colorations may have a brownish nose. The general shape of the head of the Akita is that of a blunt wedge, and in large males it is possible to place your hand on the wide forehead and not touch either ear. The body of the Akita is muscular and strong, with powerful, thick legs and a deep body. The toes of the Akita are actually webbed, making them excellent swimmers. The chest is wide and broad and is wider than the rest of the body, including the hindquarters. The solid appearance of the breed is enhanced by the medium length double coat that is off the body, adding a soft appearance to the shape. The tail is tightly curled over the back, often slightly to one side in either a full or double curl. Tails that do not curl or only curve slightly are considered disqualification in the show ring. The Japanese Akita has only four different colors and they are brindle, white, sesame (i.e. hair that is red and has black tips), and red fawn. When determining a Japanese Akita, it must have white hair on its chest, body, tail, cheeks and muzzle except the white Akita. Outside Japan, pinto is an acceptable Akita color, but not within it. More colors of the Akita are acceptable

within the United States as dog breeders continue to interbreed the Japanese Akita with the United States Akita, which is typically a bigger and heavier build version.

Coat Description
The Akita has a beautiful medium length coat with a soft undercoat. The Akita's coat should be brushed on a weekly basis. It is important to use a grooming comb and a slicker, steel Pin brush to groom your Akita's coat effectively. You can also use a firm bristle brush. Outside Japan, pinto is an acceptable Akita color, but not within it. More colors of the Akita are acceptable within the United States as dog breeders continue to interbreed the Japanese Akita with the United States Akita which is typically a bigger and heavier build version. When determining a Japanese Akita, it must have white hair on its chest, body, tail, cheeks and muzzle except the white Akita.

History
The Akita or sometimes referred to as Akita Ken, is a large sized dog that has its origins from Japan. Its name comes from Akita Prefecture, which is located in the Tohoku Region in Japan, because it is believed that the Akita originated from this particular area. The ancestors of the Akita were used for hunting by matagi, or a hunter from the Tohoko Region. During that time the Akita were typically called matagi inu (inu means dog in Japanese). These dogs possessed a smaller build than present day Akita dogs do. In addition, many of these ancestral Akita dogs were used for guarding and protecting people. Some were even used to hunt bears in particular.

Temperament
For the most part, the Akita possesses an easy going, laid back temperament that makes them a great family house pet. They are also commonly known to be quiet dogs that bark only when something necessitates them to bark. Many people commonly report that the Akita makes people feel relaxed and calm and is the ideal pet to own if you suffer from stress. In addition to being easy going, quiet life enhancing pets, the Akita breed is also known for being easy to house break and very clean dogs. The Akita is known for being so clean that many people have described the Akita breed as "cat like" for their odorless and cleanly appearance. When training Akita dogs to be house broken, many successfully accomplish this task within a few weeks, however, if you have other dog breeds that learn at a slower pace this can affect the Akita's learning pace slowing it down as well. The Akita breed is also a very patient, loyal and devoted breed that protects children. The Akita is gentle with children so much so that it is known that mothers in Japan have left their children alone in the care of an Akita. It is, of course, important to note that one should never leave a child alone with an unattended pet. Since the Akita does have a possessive temperament as well as a prey instinct they do need to be

socialized with other pets at an early age. Akitas raised with cats and other dogs will do very well as companion pets, but without socialization they may be aggressive and are not recommended for multi-pet families if they are older, non-socialized dogs.

Health Problems
Akitas from reputable breeders typically are very healthy pets, although there are a few different conditions that are seen occasionally within the breed. These conditions include: Acquired Myathenia Gravis: a condition that destroys and attacks proteins that are located on the muscle surface where the nerves attach to the muscles. Gastric torsion or Bloat: the stomach becomes twisted trapping gases and contents within it. As a result, your Akita will experience stomach swelling, pain and if not treated, eventually death. Feeding two or three small meals a day and limiting Exercise after eating can help prevent this condition. Eye conditions such as Cataracts, Entropion, Glaucoma, Mircrophthalmia, Progressive Retinal Atrophy, and retinal dysplasia. Canine hip dysplasia: a condition when the femoral head does not fit into the hip socket properly which ends up causing instability within the joint. Unique Juvenile Onset Polyarthritis Syndrome of Akita dogs as the name suggests affects young Akita dogs. It is often signaled by the reluctance to walk or stand and can cause the Akita puppy excruciating back and neck pain, loss of appetite as well as some other symptoms. Uveo Dermatological Syndrome (VKH) :blisters and sores on its nose, eye lids and pads of the feet. von Willebrands (vWD) : a blood disorder similar to human Hemophilia. These Health conditions are relatively rare and can usually be managed or control through medications and surgical treatments by a veterinarian.

Grooming
The Akita has a beautiful medium length coat with a soft undercoat. The Akita's coat should be brushed on a weekly basis. It is important to use a grooming comb and a slicker, steel Pin brush to groom your Akita's coat effectively. You can also use a firm bristle brush. Akita dogs do not need to be trimmed or shaved. They do, however, "blow" coat which means that their undercoats shed completely. As you can imagine this can be a very messy time period for any owner. It is good to know that this period typically only lasts a few weeks and this shedding period usually only takes place heavily two times a year. In addition, when your Akita

is shedding brushing its coat on a daily basis is recommended in addition to using an undercoat rake. Akita dogs that live indoors or cooler climates typically shed less. It is important to know that you should not bath an Akita too frequently. If you do, you can potentially remove the waterproofing properties that are a natural part of the Akita's full coat.

Exercise
While it is a subjective matter as to how much exercise the Akita needs, having a large yard with a fence is considered the ideal living situation for this type of dog. Akita dogs are strong and can typically, easily handle sledding and weight pulling activities. However, it is important to keep in mind that any Akita puppies less than 18 months should not try to pull any large amount of weight as their bones and joints are not fully developed yet. It is also best to allow Akita dogs to exercise on their own. Akita dogs love to jump, run and play when they want to. It is recommended that the best exercise for the Akita is with another dog. You can play with your Akita with dog toys that will encourage them to run and play. Allow small Akita puppies to rest when they need to rest and their exercise should be contained to a fenced in area. If this area is not sufficient for adequate exercise, walking and jogging with an Akita puppy is a good daily exercise. An Akita is an ideal hiking or walking dog and they are large and sturdy enough to handle even very difficult and challenging terrain. They are also very willing to play with kids and run and explore all day. A well exercised and fit Akita is calm and docile in the house and will typically not engage in any kind of destructive behavior, but they do need regular, lengthy exercise periods per day if kept indoors. Akitas, like any other dog, like to have a variety of options for exercise and not just complete the same routine everyday. While they are excellent swimmers they sometimes have to be coaxed into the water at least the first few times, but will soon enjoy a refreshing swim or paddle about on a hot day. Avoid allowing the Akita to swim in cold weather as their coat is very hard to completely dry when temperatures are cooler.

Training
It is important to from the moment that you bring your Akita home that you make sure it knows who the boss is. Akita dogs have a strong will power and need an equally powerful owner. Submissive or timid owners will not do well with this breed. The Akita can and will over power a weak owner. Thus, things like teaching your Akita that it is subordinate to you, the owner, are very important. For example, allowing your Akita to sleep on the floor next to your bed rather than on your bed teaches it that it is a subordinate to its master, but that it can still enjoy companionship. While this needing to ensure and maintain your role as a firm master to your Akita can prove challenging for some people, on a positive level, Akita dogs are highly intelligent making them incredibly fast learners. When you are training your Akita it is also very important to make sure you provide a routine that is consistent and daily so that the dog learns to know is expected. It is good to make sure that

you balance training with praise and correction. When an Akita is a puppy you will want to only teach it simple, basic behaviors. More advanced behavior training can take place after your Akita is about 4-6 months. It is important to make sure that your Akita is trained in boundary control so that it will not run out into the street and get hurt. You will also be happy to know that if your Akita has personality issues, these problems can be fixed. You can even hire a professional trainer to help these more challenging problems.

Alaskan Klee Kais

Life Span: There have been reports of them living past the age of 14 years. Litter Size: 1 - 3 puppies Group: Nordic Male Weight: Standard 23 pounds (10 kg.), Miniature 15 pounds (7 kg.), Toy under 10 pounds (4.3 kg.) Female Height:Standard 15-17.5 inches (3842 cm.), Miniature 13-15 inches (33-39 cm) Toy under 13 inches (33 cm.) Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height: Standard 15-17.5 inches (3842 cm.), Miniature 13-15 inches (33-39 cm) Toy under 13 inches (33 cm.)

Color: There are a variety of coat colors with shades of gray and white, black and white and even the very rare red and white. Hair Length: Long, Medium Size: Toy/Small, Medium

Female Weight:Standard 23 pounds (10 kg.), Miniature 15 pounds (7 kg.), Toy under 10 pounds (4.3 kg.) Living Area:Suitable for apartments, motor home travel, trailer homes, acreages and other living situations where they have room to play, worship the sun and get into the shade. It is best to make sure their playtime is supervised.

Description
The Alaskan Klee Kai is a smaller version of the Alaskan Husky, and physically resembles the Siberian Husky. This is a northern breed of dog in the Spitz family. Spitz-type dogs have by long, thick, and usually white fur, and pointed ears and muzzles. Their thick and furry tail's are usually curled over the dog's back to either side when it is alert or on the move. This smaller version of the Alaskan Husky has a wedge-shaped head and a stunning masked face, picked ears and a double coat. Back length is slightly longer than their height. The full face mask is what this breed is noted for. Their heads have a moderate stop, and the skull (slightly

rounded and broad) and muzzle (well filled in under the eyes) taper toward to the nose forming a broad-based wedge. The lower jaw is strong and lips are closed tightly and usually black. Liver colored lips are seen in dogs with coats that are shades of red with white. The AKK teeth need to close in a scissors bite, no over bites or under bites. Most AKK's have solid black noses, however there are snow noses (pink streaked) and liver colored noses. Eyes are medium and can be seen in any color or color combination. There are different shaped eyes as well - almond, oval and round. AKK ears are erect and pointing upward, and slightly larger in proportion to the size of the head. The leather is thick from tip to base, with ear tips slightly rounded. These dogs are very sensitive to sounds. They are highly curious, quick, very agile and active. Very alert dogs, they are extremely loyal, making them a good watch dog despite their smaller size. The AKK is cautious and reserved with strangers and isn't fussy about unfamiliar situations. They are very affectionate with their family.

Coat Description
The AKK coat is double and long enough to give a well- furred appearance that reminds you of its Alaskan Husky heritage. The neck has a protective ruff blending into the apron. The tail is well furred with longer hair at the base and underside of the tail. There may be have some feathering on the rear of the front legs (for longer coated dogs); the rear of the hindquarters, from the buttocks to the hock joint; underside of the body and tail; and the ears. The undercoat is soft, dense, and the guard hairs of the outer coat are straight and neither harsh nor extremely soft. There is no undercoat during the shedding season, and that is normal. The most desirable mask consists of dark coloration on the skull extending down the bridge of the muzzle and under the eyes. The fur inside the ears should be a lighter contrasting color. These other marking are desirable: Light spots over the eyes, a light blaze in the middle of the skull and stop, a dark strip down the center of the muzzle, dark coloration under the eyes and dark tipped tail. There are 5 red AKK to date. All coat colors are acceptable when showing provided that the facial mask is distinct and clearly visible and there is a contrasting lighter color on the dog's throat, chest, breeches, feet, legs and underside.

History

The Alaskan Klee Kai originates from Wasilla, Alaska, and was developed by Linda Spurlin in the early 1970's. Spurlin had taken a shine to the offspring of an accidental mating between an Alaskan Husky and another unknown smaller dog. So impressed with the size and beauty of the youngsters, she decided to breed a prototype companion pet. She continued to develop the breed with Siberian and Alaskan Huskies using Schipperke and American Eskimo Dogs to reduce the size of the dogs without having difficulties with dwarfism. Spurlin bred AKK dogs privately until 1988, and then she released them to the general public. The "original" breed was called Klee Kai, but the breed name changed in 1995 to the Alaskan Klee Kai. Even though it has been available to the public since 1988, they are still extremely rare. The Alaskan Klee Kai was officially recognized by the American Rare Breed Association (ARBA) in 1995 and the United Kennel Club (UKC) January 1, 1997.

Temperament
The most important watch word with the AKK is socialization. They need to be taken everywhere dogs are allowed when they are puppies and into older dog hood. AKK's can be very shy and reserved with strangers. Although excellent watch dogs - they will alert you to someone coming - they are not guard dogs in the sense of attacking someone. They should NOT be made into guard dogs, as these dogs were bred to be companions only. Definitely seriously consider taking your AKK to obedience classes. Again this is another venue for you and your dog so socialize with other dogs and other people - a critical aspect of raising an AKK. It's best they have the widest possible exposure to lots of different situations so that your dog with become careful with strangers instead of being fearful. Alaskan Klee Kai's (and each one is individual) are a moderate to high energy breed. Some do bark, but most seem to have soft vocalizations. These dogs are called talkers. They will blow coat once or twice a year, but shed minimally at other times.

Health Problems
While an amazingly hardy breed there has been concerns expressed about a hereditary bleeding disorder - hereditary FVII deficiency. A DNA test to identify the mutation responsible for FVII deficiency in Alaskan Klee Kai dogs has been developed at the University of Pennsylvania. Other than this disorder, this breed seems to fair very well in the Health department.

Grooming
This breed is an average shedder and should be combed and brushed on a regular basic. Bathing your AKK should be only on an as-needed basis. Of course this will depend on your dog and its needs. Use only specially formulated shampoos for dogs, not human shampoo as it can cause skin irritations. It may also cause your dog's hair coat to dry out and you would also see

flaking skin. Always check your dog's ears and be on the lookout for excessive hair, dirt, too much wax build up. If their ears are dirty, you will need to clean them very gently and carefully with a gauzecovered finger. Avoid Q-tips as you can cause damage to their eardrums. Check their eyes to see if they are running and make sure they're bright and alive. Clean any eye debris away from the corners of their eyes. Keep their nails trimmed to make sure their paws remain healthy and they are comfortable walking. If the nails get too long, they can become ingrown and be very painful for your dog to walk on.

Exercise
The Klee Kai's are not quite as dependent on being exercised as their larger relatives. However, a romp with other AKK's is especially loved, but they do adapt well to other canine playmates if introduced as a youngster to their new homes. While happy to be at home while you may be away during the day, they love nothing better than to hit the backyard and run at the speed of light when you let them out. They can run so fast they actually can be seen to do a slo-mo four-pawed drift around a few corners. All puppies and puppies at heart have unlimited energy, and that energy needs to be funneled towards constructive ends by exercising vigorously and lots of play time. As your AKK matures, appropriate exercise is still needed, but their energy level is not quite as high. Jogging, walking and running with your AKK is something they like as well. A good game of tug rope and fetch works too, if they will return the ball without hogging it.

Training
Your AKK will not get the English language and what it means until you teach it to them. So you need to be consistent in training methods with them. For instance, if you are potty training, always use the same command. If you want him to come with you for a walk, use the same commands in the same sequence. All members of your family need to be on the same song sheet when teaching your AKK the basic manners. The AKK is very intelligent, and yet an independent thinker, meaning you may get compliance some of the time, but not always obedience. This improves with age and training. So don't give up hope. Your puppy has a really rapid metabolism and will process food and water really quickly. Be prepared for potty accidents in the house and be aware of when to take you puppy outside. Your AKK's age in weeks and size usually determine how often they need to go out. For instance, once an hour is not too often for a 6 week old puppy. Other key times to take your AKK outside are after chewing something, right after a nap, after grooming and after food time. Gradually

your AKK with "get it" and start to let you know when they need to go out. Watch for the sudden bolt up from a toy and the nose to the floor - and move fast to take your pup out. Since your AKK is so sensitive and intelligent, they are masters of reading your body language and facial expressions. Punishment is not needed when training, just change your facial expressions and body language to express annoyance. The unhappy face you are showing your dog will be all he needs to get the message. However, their attention span is only about 3 - 5 minutes at a young age, so don't have a mad on too long.

Alaskan Malamutes
Life Span: 12 to 15 years Litter Size: 5 to 6 puppies at a time. Group: The Alaskan Malamute belongs to the AKC Working Class, Northern. Color: The coloring of their coats range widely. They are often various shades of white and grey. Other combinations include black and white, pure white, red and white as well as sable and white. Size: Extra Large Shedding: Heavy Shed Male Height: 23 inches tall to 25 inches tall Male Weight: 75 pounds to 85 pounds Female Height:23 inches tall to 25 inches tall Female Weight:75 pounds to 85 pounds

Hair Length: Long, Medium Living Area:Your Alaskan Malamute will be a very active animal. For this reason, they do need space. Apartment living is not the best suited for them because they need to run and move. They can and should live indoors, but they will need a large enough yard to run and roam.

Description
The Alaskan Malamute is an incredibly beautiful dog but one that has much more in store for its owner than its looks. This breed is larger, too, so size is an important consideration in selecting this pet over others. They are great pets for families that can provide for their characteristic qualities of eagerness and overpowering at times. This is a highly energetic style of dog but one that is ideal for pleasing their owners. You will need to provide enough physical activity to keep him healthy. A key to owning an Alaskan Malamute is to truly know what you are getting into. Because these dogs are very intelligent animals, they often provide an overall level of excitement and will test your patience. They are clever and looking for ways to intrigue you. If you are considering this pet, be sure that you have plenty of time for playing and exercising your Alaskan Malamute. He will demand it of you!

The Alaskan Malamute is a working class dog and this is evident right from the start as they are generally well built, very strong animals. As a pet owner, you do need to take into consideration just how powerful this breed of dog will be. While the Alaskan Malamute is a dog that is dependable and built for working, they are also very predatory animals and care must be paid to smaller animals in the home. In addition, you should be sure to have a fenced in yard or some other way to allow the dog to remain on your property as they are prone to exploring as well as taking off as the predator. In addition, they like to dig. One consideration for the Alaskan Malamute is their coat. They can live anywhere, but their coats are very heavy and this requires being kept cool in extremely high temperatures.

Coat Description
As for their coat, they are densely double coated dogs. It can be compared to that of the Siberian Husky with its dense, northern coat. You can tell the dog is an authentic pure blood by its almond shaped eyes. Only brown eyes should be found. A dog with blue colored eyes is a mixed breed in the Mal.

History
Perhaps one of the most undisputed facts about the Alaskan Malamute is that he is one of the most unaltered breeds found today. They are descendants of dogs that lives with the Mahlemut Tribe that was located in upper portions of western Alaska. These were very distinctive and necessary animals and often were just as important to the people in their area. They helped with virtually all facets of life including hunting and working with them as well as living with them. In and around the time of the Klondike Gold Rush, these dogs were quite in demand and although many tried to breed them with other dogs for later sale or to somehow improve the breed, most attempts seemed to have failed. The Alaskan Malamute is one of the oldest known breeds of dogs today with DNA proof backing this claim. An important note to remember about these dogs was what they were breed for. Unlike other Alaskan breeds, the Mal was breed for its ability to pull weight and for other large workloads. They were often able to pull hundreds of pounds of weight and could move villages and camps when they worked with other Alaskan Malamutes.

Temperament
In most cases, the Alaskan Malamute is going to be a highly energetic dog. As a pet this will mean providing constant attention and physical activity for the dog especially as they grow and need physical fitness to stay healthy. You will find that these dogs are very intelligent and can be trained to fill your needs as well.

The Alaskan Malamute is also known for being a very independent dog. It does not need or want other animals with it most of the time. He will be a loyal pet and will often provide you with the protection that you need. Yet, there will be times when your Mal, as they are often called, will not obey you. For example, as these dogs are often used in sledding, it is not uncommon to hear of an Alaskan Malamute not listening to his or her owner and saving their life in the process. They are independent in thought but not often negatively so. These dogs are also friendly animals in terms of living in the family unit. While they do not always like other pets around them, they do very well when it comes to having other family members. You will find that they are also very loving and affectionate towards you. In fact, many of them do not make very good guard dogs because they are too trusting and affectionate of people. It is important to note that puppy Alaskan Malamutes is much more energetic and hyper even than adult dogs. As they age they often mellow into dependable, calmer pets, especially when they are provided with enough attention and exercise.

Health Problems
The Alaskan Malamute does have some Health conditions that should be paid attention to. For example, they are known to have hip dysplasia and often have chrondodysplasia and inherited polyneuropathy (muscle tone and weakness problems). Another problem that is often found is that in their eyes. They are prone to developing Cataracts and often have vision problems as they begin to age. These dogs are generally very healthy animals. In fact, most of their common Health Problems are those that are considered normal in larger breeds of dogs. You'll find that they are often caused by aging rather than disease of the dog. Purchasing a recognized dog with a lineage can help to reduce occurrences of health problems like that of chrondodysplasia, or dwarfism in the dogs. You can also minimize the health problems of your dog by providing proper health care to the dog from the time that it is born and throughout its lifetime. Be aware of where you purchase your puppy, too as puppy mills are common for the Alaskan Malamute. It is also important to be sure that your Alaskan Malamute is fed properly for Health. He will likely eat less than you imagine that he will, but he will eat quickly and without proper Exercise this can be a problem for his health. Be sure that the dog eats a proper Diet and one that promotes good nutrition.

Grooming
Due to your Mal's heavy coat, you should be sure to provide proper grooming to your pet. This will require a brushing at least several times per week. You'll want to be sure that the dog cared for in terms of his teeth too. Brush his teeth as often as your brush his coat (at least three times per week.) In addition, his toe nails will need to be trimmed properly as they grow.

The coat of the dog will shed two times per year. When this happens, it is likely that large amounts of the dog's hair will come out in clumps. This is nothing to worry about and is normal shedding for the dog. Brushing will help to minimize shedding. As far as bathing goes, you don't have to worry about doing so very often. In fact, besides to cool down in hot water it is almost unnecessary to give your Alaskan Malamute a bath. You will want to use a dry shampoo on him about one time every other month. Otherwise, the dogs will take care of their own grooming in terms of bathing. You'll find that he isn't a breed that will smell or remain dirty. He'll take care of himself for the most part!

Exercise
The Alaskan Malamute is a highly energetic animal and for that reason need to be exercised and played with often. Since they were raised for use in the workforce, they are able to devote a lot of attention. They want to be kept busy. You will want to spend time playing physical games with this breed. You should also give him at least a full hours worth of walking per day for exercise. It is important to remember that with the Alaskan Malamute you do need to keep the animal under human control. Although they are highly intelligent and can definitely be trained, you should not trust them to be able to remain in this composure especially around small dogs or other animals. They should always be leashed whenever they are being walked.

Training
The Alaskan Malamute is an intelligent and clever dog. They were bred for many years because of their ability to haul and work hard, making them a perfect like bred with this combination. They are dependable and responsible, also qualities that are good for training. Because these dogs are highly active, they will often require intensive training to help them to learn how to behave and what is not acceptable behavior. You'll find that establishing a routine for the dog from morning through night can help them to understand what you want from them. More so, you will want to provide them with an outlet where they can run and play to release that energy that they often have. Training for this bread of dog should be positive and rewarding over anything else. They do not like negative attention but will display this type of temperament if they are not provided with enough attention and exercise. These dogs will do well in obedience training classes, but do not do so with smaller dogs as this can often cause their predatory instincts to come to play. You will find that the training for the Alaskan Malamute is going to be better in terms of providing them with good manners rather than trying to train them to formal obedience training. It is also important realize that these dogs love to please their master and will do what it takes to do so. You'll find that males are more dominant and harder to train than females.

One area where you may have problems training your Mal is with housetraining. They will take more work and more persistence to train in this area.

American Bandogge Mastiffs

Life Span:10-11 years Litter Size: 2-5 puppies Group:Mastiff Color:Brindle, black, fawn, red and blue. All colors can be accented with some white. Hair Length:Short Female Weight:80-120 pounds (36-54 kg) Living Area:This breed does best in a home with a large-fenced yard, but can manage an apartment if it is sufficiently exercised. Size:Large Shedding: Male Height:25-29 inches (63-73 cm.) Male Weight:100 -140 pounds (45-63 kg.) Female Height:23.5-26 inches (59-66 cm)

Description
The name Bandogge is a catch-all term for any Bulldog-type Mastiff breed. Boasting prominent muscles and a study frame, the American Bandogge Mastiff gives off an athletic and agile look. Massive in size and topped off with a boxy head and a strong jaw, the Bandogge's ears are typically large and should hang down the side of the head (some people opt to crop its ears). And even though this is a powerful looking dog, the American Bandogge Mastiff should have wellbalanced proportion and never look overweight. The American Bandogge Mastiff has a short, hard textured coat and a long tapered tail. In the way of color, its coat is generally brindle or black but they have also been found in blue, tan, tawny and red.

Coat Description
The American Bandogge Mastiff's coat should be short, close and medium fine and it comes in a variety of colors such as brindle, black, fawn, red and blue, which can be accented with some white. However, all-white or predominately white dogs are not considered desirable. An average shedder, the American Bandogge Mastiff's coat is easy to groom and it brushed occasionally with a rubber brush to remove dead hair.

History

The Bandogge Mastiff is not a technical pure bred breed. Used primarily for big game hunting and as guard dogs, the Bandogge was employed by British gamekeepers, which lead to the breed being referred to as "Gamekeeper's Night dog." These Bandogges filled the role of patrol companion and despatch dog, which meant it would capture wounded game. An even more dangerous job for the Gamekeeper's Night dog was to locate and fight armed poachers who would have to fight for their lives if this dog got a hold of them. In France, the Chien du Nuit was a similar type of dog that held the same kind of role as the Bandogge. The American Bandogge Mastiff is a cross of any kind of Bulldog (American Bulldog, American Pit Bull Terrier, Bull Terrier) and any type of Mastiff (Neopolitan Mastiff, Bullmastiff, Old English Mastiff ). The American Bandogge Mastiff breed is thanks in most part to two American mastiff breeders. In the 1960s, veterinarian John Swinford wanted to breed the ultimate guardian dog. His efforts were the result of crossing a male American Pit Bull Terrier with a Neapolitan Mastiff female. Breeder Joe Lucero was also pivotal in the evolution of this breed. He specifically refers to his dogs as American Bandogge Mastiffs.

Temperament
The Bandogge is described as having a British canine temperament. This means that it has a high stimulus threshold and pack mentality, without desire to assert rank. When properly raised, this temperament makes them trustworthy with children, which leads to this dog becoming a selfappointed babysitter. Full of spirit when playing and working, the Bandogge is calm, composed and easy going in its down time. It won't shy away or be apprehensive when meeting other people or dogs and it has a high tolerance and quick recovery from stress. Good-natured and extremely social, the American Bandogge Mastiff is devoted to its owner and eager to work. If you're raising it from a puppy, it will get along with other household pets. As long as you treat the American Bandogge Mastiff with respect, it will become a protective, caring and loving member of your family. The American Bandogge Mastiff will transform from its calm state when a bad situation arises. This makes it an exceptional guard dog and an intruder's worst nightmare. It won't bark before it attacks, which offers it the element of surprise. This breed has the uncanny ability when it comes to discerning between general human activities and suspicious or aggressive behavior. It has a strong balance of drives and is self-confident, making it a highly predictable and stable dog. The Bandogge can switch between drives with little indication, so it takes an expert and experienced dog handler to discern the switch before it happens. But don't be put off - this breed's drives don't foster outward aggression, but it's important to be wary of this dog's capabilities when it is threatened. As a puppy, the American Bandogge Mastiff can be rambunctious, which can be linked to the maturation rate of larger breeds, as well as to its environment and upbringing. This dog is recommended for those who have experience with the breed so it can be molded and nurtured according to its individual traits and behaviors.

Health Problems
Just like purebred dogs, hybrid dogs, such as the American Bandogge Mastiff, develop genetic Health Problems. American Bandogge Mastiffs may develop Health conditions common to APBTs and Mastiff-type breeds, so do your homework when selecting a breeder. Common

health concerns include hip and elbow dysplasia, eye diseases (progressive retinal atrophy), autoimmune thyroiditis, Epilepsy, various types of cancer, and skin problems. And since it has a deep chest, the American Bandogge Mastiff is prone to gastric dilatation volvulus, also known as Gastric torsion or Bloat. Although there are no guarantees when it comes to your American Bandogge Mastiff's Health, it also helps to pick a breeder who has done the health testing to ensure that his or her puppies won't carry the genetic diseases common to APBTs and mastiff-type breeds.

Grooming
Grooming an American Bandogge Mastiff is fairly easy, as it is a short-haired breed. It's a good idea to train your puppy to stand still for brushing and grooming. Not only is it a great way to bond, but it will be easier for you when your dog weighs over 100 pounds. At first, your puppy may not like being groomed. Be patient - with a little kindness, your dog will soon love the practice, as long as you are calm and consistent. Start off by brushing your puppy a few minutes a day for the first week or two, and then gradually increase the time spent grooming. Be sure to brush your American Bandogge Mastiff on a regular basis in order to get rid of dandruff, dead hair, and dust. And when you brush your dog regularly, it reduces shedding, prevents skin infections, and improves that annoying doggy smell. When brushing, use a firm bristle-brush, rubber brush, or dog glove. If you don't have a brush handy, use your hand - just wet your hand and run it down your American Bandogge Mastiff tail to head. After a good brushing, you can rub your dog's coat with a cloth to make it extra shiny. And grooming doesn't just mean brushing - it also includes bathing, cleaning eyes and ears, and clipping toenails. Although you won't have to do these things every day, you should always check your American Bandogge Mastiff's eyes and ears regularly. Another tip to help reduce shedding (and the doggy odor), you should bathe your American Bandogge Mastiff regularly. Be sure not to do it too often as it can is bad for their skin. You'll find that once a month is usually fine - unless your dog really starts to smell.

Exercise
The American Bandogge Mastiff requires moderate exercise, but if you don't provide enough mental and physical exercise, your dog will become upset when left alone, hard to control and destructive. As well, if the Bandogge doesn't get enough exercise, it can be quite lazy. This breed typically need about 45 minutes of exercise each day to keep it healthy and happy. Even though this is a larger dog, the American Bandogge Mastiff can do well in apartments if it is exercised properly. The ideal living situation for this breed is a home with a large-fenced yard. As well, even though this dog loves its daily outdoor walk, you shouldn't let it live outdoors - it needs to be with its owner indoors.

Training
Even though the American Bandogge Mastiff is an extremely intelligent dog and trains easily, it needs an experienced owner, so this isn't the breed for the first-time dog owner. When you start training your American Bandogge Mastiff, be sure that you establish yourself as the pack leader. If you do not take control of this breed of dog, expect a lot of damage to occur to

your home and yard. Since it likes to be active, you'll need to provide an opportunity for exercise during the day. When training the American Bandogge Mastiff, be firm and consistent - it's the best way to ensure this breed becomes obedient. The American Bandogge Mastiff is an attentive breed and will pick up on your every command. Once you establish your role as the master of the pack, you'll have an easier time training this breed.

American Bulldogs
Life Span:10 and 15 years Litter Size:6 to 16 puppies Group:They belong to the rare, working, and guardian groups of dogs. Recognized By:CKC, UKC, NKC Male Weight:75-125 pounds Color:This breeds coat is white or white with patches that are either red (i.e. any shade of tan) or brindle. Female Height:20-25 inches Female Weight:60-100 pounds Living Area:American Bulldogs are sturdy dogs that are capable of living outdoors. In fact, the ideal setting for the American Bulldog is on a farm or a home that has a large backyard that is securely fenced in which your dog can roam freely within. When you have such a setting for your American Bulldog you will want to ensure that they then have a nice indoor environment they can go to sleep or rest. Because the breed has a short coat, they are typically less tolerable to extreme hot or cold weather, and as a result, you may need to keep them indoors on very hot or cold days. Hair Length:Short Size:Large, Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:22-27 inches

Description
As man's best friend the American Bulldog sometimes referred to as the Old Country Bulldog truly lives up to this. The American Bulldog symbolizes true love, devotion and grit. Often they are describes as athletic, all purpose, hardy working dogs. They have been widely known to conduct great heroic acts to protect its owner. The American Bulldog is strong, stocky dog that has a short coat that is stiff to touch. This breeds coat is white or white with patches that are either red (i.e. any shade of tan) or brindle. In addition, the American Bulldogs ears are usually uncropped. There are two different types of the American Bulldog. They are the Classic or the Johnson, Bully and the Standard or the Scott, Performance. The Scott, Performance is often times confused with its second cousin the American Pit Bull Terrier. The current American Bulldog is

a combination of the Scott type and Johnson type dog which has a shorter muzzle, but is a larger dog. In comparison to the Johnson and the Scott breeds, the American Bulldog has a much more massive build. Generally, the female American Bulldog weighs about 60-100 pounds while the male weighs about 75-125 pounds. The female typically measures about 20-25 inches and the male about 2227 inches. American Bulldogs typically have litters that are anywhere between 6 to 16 puppies. And they belong to the rare, working, and guardian groups of dogs. American Bulldogs will also take to living in an apartment or home if they are given regular attention, stimulation and exercise. In fact, they are typically inactive within a home or apartment making them very suitable to indoor living. Many people actually recommend and believe that it is preferable keep American Bulldogs indoors because they are not well equipped for the different weather elements. But, if you live in a climate that does not experience extreme weather conditions allowing your American Bulldog to live outdoors is just as suitable as allowing them to live indoors.

Coat Description
The American Bulldog is strong, stocky dog that has a short coat that is stiff to touch.

History
The history of the American Bulldog begins in the time period of Caesar around 1066. In the 17th and 18th centuries English Bulldogs were mostly used on farms to hold livestock and catch others. They were also used as guardians and butcher dogs. Eventually the temperament of the breed led people to use them in blood sports like bull-baiting for gambling and entertainment purposes. The sport of bull-baiting was outlawed in 1835 within the United Kingdom and in time the English Bulldog became common, complacent pet. However, within the United States, the American version of the breed was steadily declining in comparison to other breeds. The survival of the American Bulldog has most to do with feral pigs. Because the American Bulldog seemed to be the best way to chase off and protect owners from these predators, they soon became popular pets again. However, because the American Bulldog was close to extinction by World War II and John D. Johnson and Alan Scott began inter breeding dogs; thus, creating the Johnson and Scott versions of the bulldog.

Temperament
Typically, the American Bulldog is known as a loving family pet that is good with other pets and children as well. This breed of dog is fearlessly determined and will attack predators or any threat toward its owners. It is confident, powerful, and agile with powerful jaws and a large head that has made it quite naturally used in hunting everything from small squirrels to larger game like bears. The American Bulldog has also been trained to guard stock and drive cattle.

The American Bulldogs are known for their great versatility as working dogs as well. They are able to learn many different things, but they are also very independent. They are obstinate, dominant and willful. They want to be the boss in any situation. They will see if you can make them do something they do not want to do. As an owner, you must be consistent, firm and always mean what you say. In addition, American Bulldogs need to be exposed regularly to friendly strangers because they have a natural protective instinct toward anyone they do not know. They need to know how to recognize the difference between good people and bad people. If they do not have careful socialization they can end up biting others and being suspicious of everyone. It is important to note that there are many American Bulldogs who will not get along and tolerate another dog of the same sex. They have strong instincts and will chase fleeing animals and capture cats. When breeding, training, handling, socializing and or management of the American Bulldogs goes awry these dogs are known for being able to seriously maim or even kill other animals.

Health Problems
Though the American Bulldog is a healthy and sturdy animal it is important to be aware of the potential Health issues it can be faced with. To begin, the most devastating and prevalent health concern for the American Bulldog or any other breed for that matter is Canine hip dysplasia otherwise known as CHD. CHD occurs when the femoral bone does not fit properly in the joint socket causing pain and difficulty in standing or walking. In addition, if CHD is not treated properly it can cause another disease that is known as Degenerative Joint Disease or DJD. Some other health concerns you will want to be aware of regarding your American Bulldog follows: eye problems Entropion eyelids elbow dysplasia skin and allergy problems that can be signals of immune problems. Bulldogs are also susceptible to Heart Murmurs, but these are usually benign as well as bilateral and unilateral deafness. When you are purchasing an American Bulldog, it is thus very important to make sure you are dealing with a reputable breeder who certifies and gives their puppies health screenings. You want to also make sure that they give you warranties for the dog or dogs that they are selling you.

Grooming

The American Bulldog has a short coat that is harsh to the touch. This breed of dog sheds regularly and thus, brushing its coat regularly is a good idea. You can use either a bristle brush or a rubber mitt to groom your American Bulldog's coat. Brushing your dog's coat outside your home on a weekly basis is a good recommendation. This will ensure that your dog has a shiny coat and also keeps hair from accumulating around the house. Furthermore, American Bulldogs do not need bathes on a regular basis. Only bathe your American Bulldog when he or she needs a bath (i.e. it has gotten muddy or has gone into the ocean and its coat is salty). In addition to brushing your American Bulldogs coat, you will also want to trim their nails once a week to prevent overgrowth. This is a very simple process and you will only need a pair of animal nail clippers that can be found in most pet stores. Be sure to trim only the top portion of the nail. You might also need to clean your American Bulldog's ears especially if they suffer from bacterial infections, allergies, or have a wound or injury. When you clean their ears use baby oil and a cotton ball. It is imperative that you do not clean too far into the ear as you can damage the ear canal. Be sure to only wipe gently around the outer part of the ear. If you notice your bulldog is scratching its ears or shaking its head too often, you will want to take it to the vet to check for infections.

Exercise
American Bulldogs are at their best when they are given a job or task to accomplish. These dogs love to be walked frequently with a secure leash. They enjoy playing with family members and romping and roaming in a generous yard. The American Bulldog should be exercised on a daily basis for at least one hour a day regardless of the weather conditions. Keeping your bulldog indoors is fine, but you must make sure it has sufficient exercise. Just as long as you are able to give your bulldog sufficient exercise so that they can release their pent up exercise, your dog will be happy and healthy.

Training
When you decide to train your American Bulldog you must be prepared. If you are not, the breed tends to become bored easily and will end up using its energy on things within your home like tables, shoes and other such things. Remember adequate daily attention consists of only one hour. But, you need to make sure that you have this time and energy to exercise and train this active breed. If not you will probably want to try another type of breed. Training an American Bulldog must begin early for this breed. They do not do well with heavy handed or harsh training methods so this is important to keep in mind. Training that is fair, firm, consistent and patient work best for this breed. American Bulldogs have many skills that can be enhanced like hunting, guarding, weight pulling, and tracking. It is important to note that this breed's level of training requirements is moderately high. These dogs do not do well with self discipline and, thus, they will need much attention and time.

Because they are highly intelligent and confident they have been known to get in trouble easily and become inappropriately protective. These potential problems can be remedied with proper attention, care and training. House breaking your American Bulldog is very important and must be started as soon as possible. Thus, it is important to create an immediate daily routine to help prevent urination accidents that can occur when you first bring a dog home. If you set a consistent routine like taking your dog outside before you go to work, when you get home, and one additional time before bedtime this will help your dog learn to have more control during the times you are not home. Instilling daily routines will also help to make the American Bulldog feel more comfortable around people and their surroundings. Depending on the situation, developing a routine can potentially take up to six months, and once your dog is trained you will need to maintain the routine in to keep your dog happy and feeling secure.

American Eskimos
Life Span:Average of 15 years. Some have been known to live longer. Litter Size:Average is 5 puppies. Shedding:Moderate Shed Group:Northern, AKC Non-Sporting Male Height:Toy 9-12 inches (23-30 cm), Miniature 12-15 inches (30.48-38.1 cm), Standard 15-19 inches (38.1-48.3 cm) Male Weight:Toy 6-10 pounds (2.72-4.53 kg), Miniature 10-20 pounds (4.53-9.07 kg), Standard 18-35 pounds (8.16-15.87 kg) Female Weight:Toy 6-10 pounds (2.72-4.53 kg), Miniature 10-20 pounds (4.53-9.07 kg), Standard 18-35 pounds (8.16-15.87 kg) Hair Length:Long, Medium Size:Toy/Small, Medium

Recognized By:CKC, AKC, UKC, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:Snow White, White/Biscuit Cream, Biscuit Cream Female Height:Toy 9-12 inches (23-30 cm), Miniature 12-15 inches (30.48-38.1 cm), Standard 15-19 inches (38.1-48.3 cm)

Living Area:The American Eskimo is at much at home in an apartment as it is out in the country. They do best in situations where they can be exercised on a daily basis. Whether it's running in an enclosed backyard or a daily walk, they do need to have room to run and play. They are very active indoors and should be given lots to do. They do not do well without routine.

Description
The American Eskimo is a small-to-medium-sized breed that is known for its stark white to cream-colored coat. It looks a great deal like a small Samoyed, but comes in three different sizes. The toy, miniature and standard American Eskimo are all known for having a wedge-shaped

head with an equally proportioned muzzle and skull. They have triangular ears that stand erect and a beautifully full tail that curls up over their backs in regal fashion. Their jaws are generally quite strong with close fitting teeth. They are known for having a scissors or pincer bite. Although the American Eskimo sometimes has blue eyes, this is considered a negative trait in the show world. Blue-eyed Eskies are subject to health problems, such as blindness. Inasmuch, brown eyes are considered the mark of good breeding and good health. The American Eskimo is known for being a very good companion dog. It is beloved for its intelligence, alertness and spunk. The breed is considered very active and quite loving. They are compact, but built with balance and agility. They are considered quite spirited, but are thought to be very good all-around pets for apartments as well as homes as long as they are properly exercised. The American Eskimo is believed to have descended from the German Spitz. The name of the breed is thought to have been changed as a result of anti-German sentiment. The breed itself gained much notoriety during the 1930s and 1940s as performance animals in circuses. They are quite adept at learning and mastering tricks, such as walking on a tightrope, which makes them wonderful performers. Although they can and do perform tricks well, this breed is not known for being overly motivated. Training of an American Eskimo needs to begin early and must be delivered with patience. With its compact size, intelligence and loyalty, the American Eskimo is considered an ideal pet and even a guard dog by many. Its natural agility and alterness combine to make this a very good household breed. Training of an American Eskimo should begin early. They tend to excel in agility training, but they are not overly inclined to perform in all cases. Proper training methods are a must to overcome this.

Coat Description
The American Eskimo is characterized by its double coat that includes a very dense undercoat and a longer coat of hair that grows through it to form the outer coat. The coat of this breed is straight, without curls or waves. The breed has a ruff around the neck that is generally much more noticeable on dogs rather than bitches. The outer ears are typically covered with smooth, short hairs and have longer tufts that grow from in front of the ear openings themselves. Muzzle hair is typically very short and smooth. The backs of the front legs, rear legs and hock are typically feathered. The tail is generally very full and curls up onto the dog's back.

History
The American Eskimo is thought to have descended from the German Spitz, which was brought into the Americas by immigrants. The breed's name likely changed during World War I because of anti-German sentiment. The American Eskimo became highly popular in the 1920s and 1930s as traveling circuses showcased their performance talent. Adept at walking a tightrope, these little dogs became a big

hit for the likes of Barnum & Bailey. The Eskie breed was first fully recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1995, but the American Eskimo Dog Club of America had been in existence since the 1980s. Although they gained renowned as performers, most American Eskimos are kept simply as pets. They do tend to place very well in shows, however, and are quite good with obedience trails.

Temperament
American Eskimos of any size are considered very intelligent, alert and active dogs. They are quite capable and willing to defend and guard their family when it's called for. They are generally very good companion dogs for individuals or even full families. They get along swimmingly with children who are well-behaved. Most tend to do very well with company once proper introductions have been given. This breed does have a very high energy level, which can present problems for those who cannot properly exercise their Eskie on a regular basis. It is very important for these dogs to get the love, affection and attention they crave. These dogs thrive on having something to do. When an American Eskimo is left to its own devices for too long, they can become a little noisy and even a bit destructive. When proper exercise is a part of routine, destructive tendencies tend to be kept in check rather well. Despite some precautions, the breed is considered as ideal for city-living as it is country dwelling. Properly training and exercising an American Eskimo will generally prevent any disciplinary problems this breed might present. Since they are typically compact, even in the standard size, they can thrive in small places easily. Although they resist "working," the American Eskimo can be highly trained to perform tricks, stunts or simply just behave. The breed tends to show very well in obedience trials. Individual Eskies might have a stubbon streak, but most can be coaxed into proper training and playing. On the guard dog front, this breed is considered ideal for homes because of its natural wary behavior around strangers. They have been known to refuse entry to those they do not know. Most American Eskimos, however, make fast friends with strangers as soon as their owners properly introduce them. They are quick to bark at people and things outside that do not belong. American Eskimos that are well-trained, well-loved and well-exercised are considered perfect the companions and are even ideal for shows and breeding. They are quite loyal, love attention and will aim to please their owners. They might need firm guidance now and again, but their temperament overall is considered ideal for novice dog owners to handle. They are not overly difficult to train.

Health Problems

Typically a very healthy breed, the American Eskimo does have the potential for some medical conditions that might be a concern: hip dysplasia: Also known as, Canine hip dysplasia (CHD), this condition can cause mild to severe lameness. Progressive Retinal Atrophy: This tends to start with night blindness, and slowly becomes total blindness. Eyesight concerns are also strong in Eskies with blue eyes. The trait, although beautiful, is considered a sign of poor Health and poor Breeding for this reason. Weight concerns: This breed can be subject to weight problems if proper Exercise does not remain a part of everyday scheduling. Diet and exercise should be a primary concern with this breed.

Grooming
The American Eskimo is renowned for its rather thick snow-white or cream-colored coat. It is easy to groom, but grooming must be kept up with for this to be so. The Eskie needs to be fully groomed at least twice a week to maintain its appearance and keep its coat free from mats. When it is shedding, a daily brushing is in order. The breed is considered "average" on the shedding scale. It is considered wise to fully comb out or brush an Eskie's coat a minimum of two times a week. Doing this will keep its coat looking beautiful. A coat like the American Eskimo has can easily become tangled and matted if a proper brushing routine isn't established and maintained. Bathe Eskies on an as-needed basis. It is not necessary to bathe these dogs on a regular basis. Wait for them to feel or look like they need it to avoid drying out their skin. Make sure to use shampoo that has been created for dogs. Human shampoo might smell nice, but a dog's skin tends to be rather sensitive. Do take care to clean out their ears and remove hair, dirt and any wax build up that is troublesome. It is wise to inspect them closely for fleas and ticks in season and take steps to prevent infestations. Unless American Eskimos are run on hard surfaces frequently, they will require nail care. Their paws should be inspected regularly and nails trimmed as needed. Although they do have a very dense coat, Eskies are not generally considered difficult to groom. Basic, routine maintenance of their coats tends to keep them looking quite beautiful.

Exercise

American Eskimos are chock-full of energy inside and out. They are known for being extremely active dogs and must get adequate exercise on a daily basis. If they are not properly exercised and entertained, this breed is known for being a bit noisy and destructive. Tiring them out with a good exercise routine can help prevent chewed furniture, shoes and so on. It can also help prevent neighbors from complaining about excessive barking. A perfect workout for an Eskie involves at the very least a good, long daily walk. At least 20 to 45 minutes on the leash is not a bad idea each day. This can be broken up into two daily walks to keep energy level under control. If walks are not possible, Eskies can tire themselves out playing in an enclosed back yard. Find a favorite toy, such as a ball, and an owner will get to see just how much energy even the smallest Eskie has. Eskies love to play and run and tend to do very well with both agility and obedience training, which can double as exercise. Eskies are also known for their ability to perform tricks, so some spirited fun might also be in order. If daily exercise routine doesn't seem to be keeping the energy level under control, consider adding more to it. The more active an Eskie is kept, the happier it will be. Just try to keep a routine or schedule in place. This can help greatly when an owner has to be away on a daily basis.

Training
American Eskimos are considered incredibly smart, but that doesn't mean they are easy to train. It is suggested that training in basic housebreaking, obedience and agility, if desired, begin as quickly as possible after an Eskie is brought home. These dogs are quite intelligent and they love to please, but not all of them enjoy working. Proper training techniques are a must to coax the reluctant into performing well. Many Eskie owners opt for organized training classes for obedience, agility and showing. These classes can help ensure that proper training techniques are being used. A natural mistrust of strangers is common in this breed, but unbridled aggression is not. Aggression problems can be avoided entirely in most cases, if proper training begins in the puppy stage and is reinforced throughout an Eskie's life. Eskie's sometimes have performance anxiety and do need to be coaxed into training correctly. A gentle, but firm command of the animal is necessary to overcome this problem. When obedience problems are present with this breed, consistent reinforcement of proper behavior is generally the way to go. Eskie's are smart and they can comprehend commands, tricks and behaviors very easily.

American Foxhounds

Life Span: 10-13 years although, some have lived to be 15. Litter Size: 4-7 puppies are found in a typical litter with an average litter of about 5 pups. Group: The American Foxhound is a member of the hound group, also known as scent hounds in the UK.

Hair Length: Medium Size: Large Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height:22-25 inches (56-64cm) Male Weight:70-75 pounds (30-34kg)

Female Height:21-24 inches (53-61cm) Color: Any colour is acceptable in this breed, but most are pie-balled with a splotch Female Weight:65-70 pounds (29-32kg) of black on the back and white legs accented with tan on the trunk. Living Area: Foxhounds require regular access to the outdoors. They don't do well at all when they're kept indoors all the time and can really use a back yard or somewhere to run free. Best of all is a place where they can be allowed access to interesting terrain they can run through. Wellexercised foxhounds are far easier to discipline and train.

Description
The American Foxhound is very similar to its British cousin which dates back to the 13th century. Both look a great deal like a big and tall beagle though, the American foxhound is a bit taller and thinner. Of course, all the fox hounds are very closely related and share many common traits. In fact, other than size, they are very similar in appearance and temperent to the somewhat more familiar black, white and tan beagle. Bred to accompny their masters on the hunt, the American Foxhound is known for its stamina and shrewd nose. They were once used to chase and flush game while their masters remained on horseback ready to dispatch the fleeing beasts. Should they catch it, they very rarely maul their quarry in the course of a hunt, preferring the chase itself. Their demeanor is cheerfull and, as such, they make wonderful family dogs provided they have enough room to run around and expend some of their excess energy. They are also very pack oriented, and will readily call a human family its own and demanding daily affection. The breed standards describe a dog that conveys easy and graceful movement with every step. The head tends to be long and somewhat domed on top. Their large, floppy ears are carried to the side and tend to frame the face unless angry. A foxhound's tail should be held high and slightly curved upward without actually curling over the top of his or her backside. The coat is well formed and close but also, thick and corase, for deep woods action. American Foxhounds with espeically soft coats vary from the accepted breed standard and are susceptible to getting bits and bobs stuck in their coat while running through the under story.

Foxhounds have very tall legs - taller than any other member of the foxhound sub-group - and they are able to run through thick woods for hours before tiring. Their stamina is one trait that separates them from their English cousins. Today, they are widely distributed throughout the Southeatern United States and very often used for several different types of hunting.

Coat Description
The coat is close but a bit wiry. Excessive softness is considered a liability for show dogs, though. The only bit of fluffiness allowed on show ring foxhounds is a slight poofing out at the tip of the tail.

History
The fox hounds were brought to the United States as part of some of the earliest collections hunting dogs in the New World. Robert Brooke brought the first ones across as early as 1650 - making them among the first domesticated dogs in the Americas. The family line of people and dogs remained unbroken for over 300 years, with the Brooke dogs being a distinctly separate line from others, as recognized in the common studbook The American breed of the foxhound owes it's unique head shape and height to the inclusion of some traits from the taller French Hounds that were given to George Washington by the Marquis de Lafayette nearly a century after the first Foxhound arrived. Foxhounds have been in Virginia for so long, the American Foxhound has actually been named the official state animal.

Temperament
Also like a beagle, these dogs are a bit high strung and are known for their howls and yips. It is difficult or impossible task to convince these dogs that some people are not to be barked at. When they do set up a howl, it is quite loud, though music to the ears of many who love hounds. However, they usually don't just sit there and bark (like some hounds), preferring instead to actively seek the affection of others. They crave attention and are very affectionate in the home. They are actually quite good with children and can be trusted with even the smallest young ones. In fact, American Foxhounds are very social dogs that will fiercely defend their pack, human or not. As such, it can be difficult to retrain a dog to live with a human family if they've spent a lot of time in the company of a dog pack, such as is very commonly found in the case of hunting packs. Sometimes, foxounds are a bit nervous around loud noises and situations where they're

overwhelmed by scents and sounds. This can actually send a foxhound into a frenzy of sorts, often resulting in some destructive behvaviour. As such, these hounds have a very highly developed sense of smell (even for a hound), and will follow a scent to the exclusion of all else, including your commands and pleas, espeically if it's something good. Even a well-trained foxhound is not easily called off a scent. It's not that they don't know what you want, it's just that they don't care right now. When hunting, they are essentially fearless and will do some stupidly brave things if you give them the chance. It is genearly not advised to let a fox hound off the leash unless you're sure there are no roads anywhere nearby and are in a position to get your hound out of trouble if they decide to take on a bear or something equally suicidal. Owners in town and the country need to be very careful that American Foxhounds don't run off. They're notoriously stupid about traffic, but clever enough to figure out how gates latch and, tall enough to do something about it.

Health Problems
The American Foxhound is an unusually healthy dog. Generally, the breed doesn't Show any sign of congenital defect or inherited conditions. It is also usually free of debilitating hip and bone disorders that plague many other large breeds. However, as American Foxhounds are being bred larger and larger, some hip problems are emerging in the breed. If your hound is very tall, you might want to take extra care to make sure he or she doesn't run too hard.

Grooming
The grooming regimen for American Foxhounds is very simple compared to most other breeds. The coat is coarse and smooth with very little extra hair to tangle up or catch things in the woods. So, unless the hound's coat is especially soft, you won't have to worry about picking seeds and leaves out of your companion's fur. However, a nice, regular brushing is not only good for the skin, but it may also alert you to the presence of fleas before they get out of control. In areas that are prone to wood and deer ticks, regular brushings after a trip to the woods may help prevent the transmission of some serious diseases. Brushing may be done with either a large dog comb that more closely resembles horse tack or, the more traditional fine-toothed comb. The latter is preferable when looking for external parasites such as fleas or ticks. It is a very worthwhile goal to get your dog to really enjoy the attention of regular brushings. This will help you get the job done with a minimum of fuss at least once per week - twice a week or more is even better. Since they are large enough to give you a very hard time if they don't like

a regular brushing, associating grooming with pleasant activities is a must. While most American Foxhounds get a great deal of exercise in an effort to keep them sane, a careful grooming regimen should include regular checks on their toenails. Most foxhounds have white claws, making trimming a lot easier. If your dog has black nails, you'll have to be especially careful not to cut below the quick that is visible on white nails. Pay very close attention to the dewclaws. While the other nails may have a chance to get worn down during exercise (especially if walked on concrete or asphalt), these can grow around and right into the skin if you're not careful. Another important part of grooming is periodic dental care. Real beef knucklebones make a very good toothbrush for the foxhound (as well as just about any other sort of dog) and should be given at least once a month. There are finger-fitted toothbrushes that are sold with special meatfloured toothpaste that some people have success with when used once a week.

Exercise
Just about any type of exercise is suitable for this very active dog, though they are definitely at their best when running through the woods. The American Foxhound's long legs and natural agility allow it to cut through undergrowth faster than you might think possible. For hounds that don't have regular access to their preferred terrain, regular exercise in a yard or even frequent walks are an absolute must for a hound kept in the relative confinement of living in a house. Apartment dwellers would do better with another breed of dog, since the foxhound is prone to very serious bouts of misbehaviour when bored. Though not typically a destructive breed, they are sure to wreak havoc on a typical household when left alone too long without exercise. Many people give them free access to an outdoor pen, but be forewarned: they are well known as escape artists. Their agile minds, "soft mouths" and tall cartridge allow them to pick even rather complicated locks.

Training
The American foxhound is a very intelligent breed, though not always responsive, even to the best of training. They are spirited and often described as jovial or happy dogs. Though not typically the sort of dog that just sets up to barking for hours non-stop, the American Foxhound is known for "giving voice" when conditions warrant it. It can be very difficult to train this very fundamental behaviour of hounds out of their usual repitorire. Some owners, especially those that live in heavily urbanized areas, are able to achieve a certain amount of success with citronella (or any other scent they find offensive) spray collars that give them a little quirt every time they start up with their very distinctive howl and yip.

Their social nature allows you to be in as much of a position of authority as any foxhound is willing to accept by always making sure you retain your position of dominance in your own family or "little pack." Many owners find their foxhounds are very receptive to positive reinforcement. Generally they respond to punishment with what could best be called complete and utter confusion. Very often, people find training a foxhound to be a bit like digging a hole in the sand. You keep thinking you're making progress and then they just ignore months or years of training upon a whim. Indeed, they are a bit difficult to house train. Owners who have even moderate success in this can congratulate themselves on a job well done, since the breed is so resistant to potty-training. Even hounds that appear to have this down pat can loose it if sufficiently excited.

American Pit Bull Terriers

Life Span: 12-15 years Litter Size: 6 to 10 puppies Group: Terrier Color: The colors of the American Pit Bull Terrier may vary and can be almost any solid color with the exception of merle. Hair Length: Short Size: Medium, Large Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height: 16-24 inches Male Weight: 35-65 pounds (16-29 kg) Female Height: 14-24 inches Female Weight: 30-60 pounds (16-27 kg)

Living Area: The American Pit Bull Terrier is a dog that can be kept indoors or outdoors, but is best kept indoors with the family. They are very loving and enjoy romping on the floor with kids. They do enjoy running outdoors and should be allowed to run to wear off some of the energy they possess. Due to their high prey drive, it is recommended they be kept on a leash when outdoors so they don't chase other animals. Because of their high intelligence, it is very easy to housebreak them.

Description
The American Pit Bull Terrier is a mid-sized breed of dog in the terrier group. They are known for their intelligence, strength, loyalty and friendliness. They make wonderful family dogs and pets for the children always wanting to take care of them. They are a strong solidly built muscular dog with a short and stiff single layer of hair that can be almost any color. The ears are occasionally cropped, with a short tapered tail. The coat is short, single layered, and stiff but glossy. The ears are rose colour and semi pricked

and eyes can be almost any colour except blue. The blocky head is wedge-shaped with wrinkles on top. There has been negative publicity about them in recent years, not due to the actual behaviour of the American Pit Bull Terrier, but do to misbreeding of different types of "pit bull like" terriers with the intent of making tough guard dogs. Because of the similarity in looks of some of these "pit bull" terriers, the pit bulls, in general have unfairly been labelled as mean, untrustworthy and actually restricted and banned in some parts of the world. Many of these instances stemmed from bad owners that mistreated and almost starved the dogs to make them mean rather than from the dog itself. Owners of the American Pit Bull Terrier dispute these allegations against the dog and claim they are wonderfully, intelligent, loving dogs that with proper discipline and obedience training make wonderful family pets for all ages. The American Kennel Club does not recognize the American Pit Bull Terrier, although the United Kennel Club and the American Pit Bull Registry recognize them.

Coat Description
The American Pit Bull Terrier has a smooth short single coat that requires minimum care. Occasionally, you will see an American Pit Bull Terrier with a pattern on the body, but solid is more common. Eye color can be any color except blue.

History
The history of the American Pit Bull Terrier began in the 1800s when the pit bull and terriers were crossbred and imported to America from England and Ireland for dog fighting. From there they were brought to farmers to be used as working dogs. They were then bred and trained to be good dog fighters but would not bite their owners or turn on other humans. In the early 1900s, the United Kennel Club and the American Dog Breeders Association were formed so they could register this dog. The American Kennel Club would not recognize the breed and allow it to be registered, so after dog fighting was banned; many owners changed the name to Staffordshire terrier to change its reputation and prove it to be a worthy legitimate breed of dog. This name was recognized by the AKC and shortly afterwards, the word "American" was added to its name so it wouldn't be confused with the Staffordshire bull terrier. When many breeders and owners of the American Pit Bull Terrier (APBT) continued to use the name, the dog became a popular family dog. Its popularity started to decline after World War II for a few years when many new dog breeds were developed. It is now a popular dog again in spite of the negative publicity. The United Kingdom enacted a law in 1991 called the Dangerous Dog Acts bans the sale or breeding of any dog that is in any part a pit bull. Responsible owners of the American Pit Bull terrier still claim that the negative publicity is due to unsavory dog owners that try to force the dog to behave in a vicious way. They also claim that many of the attacks that are claimed to have been by the APBT were actually by dogs that resembled them.

Temperament
The temperament of the American Pit Bull Terrier can be described in many ways with the most consistent terms being friendly and goofy. They are known for their great intelligence, sound nerve and character and make a great family dog and pet. They are friendly towards everyone they see whether it's family, friends or strangers. The American Pit Bull Terrier makes a great dog for children, rough housing with them yet protecting them from harm if need be. They are known for their high prey drive, so they do consider birds, rabbits or other small animals as fair game. This is bred in their genetics, but basic obedience training started at a very young age will help curtail the problem. If they are raised around other animals they will get along with them fine, never provoking trouble. However, if the other animal instigates a fight, the American Pit Bull Terrier most likely will not walk away. In recent years, many individuals have breed and cross bred this dog with other bull terriers with the intent of making a guard or attack dog. The media then sensationalized it labeling the "pit bull" as a mean dog, thus giving any kind of pit bull terrier a bad name to the public. In reality, the American Pit Bull Terrier is not any meaner or more of a threat than the German shepherd, collie or any other dog. In fact, because of their friendly nature with people, many owners claim the make poor guard dogs with the property whether the owners are home or not. Their personality is very friendly, happy and almost goofy as they roll around on the floor playing with their master and family members. If you have more than one American Pit Bull Terrier, it is recommended that you avoid same sexes, especially owning two females. Pit bulls are very slow to mature in temperament, some not fully developing until anywhere from 2 to 4 years of age. Even as a young dog, they are curious, loving, active and playful and love playing with children. It is recommended that children not be left alone with them, but more because the pit bull doesn't know his own strength and may accidentally knock the child down. The American Pit Bull Terrier has a high tolerance for pain and often doesn't feel it when children hit them or pull their tail, which may contribute to them being such patient dogs with children. If you are considering getting an American Pit Bull Terrier puppy, make sure you get one from a reputable breeder. Check out the parents of the puppy as well, if possible. Many behavior problems that arise in dogs later are a result of poor breeding such as mating two aggressive dogs together. With a background like that, good training can only go so far.

Health Problems
The American Pit Bull Terrier is a relatively healthy dog with few Health Problems. hip dysplasia is about the most serious problem they have. If you plan to breed your dog, it is recommended that you have their hips x-rayed first and check the pedigree of the parents to assure that they are certified OFA excellent or good.

Grooming

The American Pit Bull has a short smooth single layer coat that doesn't require a lot of grooming. As with all dogs that are kept indoors and outdoors, you will want to make sure they are clean. Your pit bull will love being outside romping around when the weather is nice and he will get dirty. Always be sure to check him for ticks or other insects when he comes back in. Regular brushing with a firm bristle brush is about all he will need with his short coat. Grooming should begin when your dog is a small pup so he gets used to having his body parts (feet, toenails, ears, mouth) handled on a regular basis. He will get so used to having his feet and ears touched and cleaned, that it will be something he comes to enjoy as an adult dog. Grooming your American Pit Bull Terrier also is important to all dogs for a couple reasons. One reason is to make him look good and it's a way to possibly alert you to any unusual health problems in or on the skin. Another reason is this is a time for you and your dog to bond-just the two of you. Keeping the ears clean and dry is very important for dogs, especially dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors. The American Pit Bull Terrier does not need to be bathed very regularly, but his ears should be clean and dry. If you do bathe him, ask you pet supply store to recommend a good shampoo or conditioner for your breed of dog. Your vet or pet supply store can also recommend some wipes or cleaning supplies for your dog. Your dog will love this attention from you especially if it's ended with a treat.

Exercise
The American Pit Bull Terrier is a dog that requires a lot of exercise. They have a lot of energy and if not allowed to wear some of it off, you will find them getting into mischief and doing destructive things around the house. Because they are so goofy and playful, they love going for walks with the family and just romping around in the yard, rolling around, being tickled and just being socialized with the entire family. In fact, until they actually mature, they are quite rambunctious and energetic. Most American Pit Bull terriers are enrolled in some sort of training, whether it's obedience, agility or weight pulling and this is all great exercise for them and will make them happy as they love doing things with their family members.

Training
Training for the American Pit Bull Terrier is extremely important to help the dog become the best family dog he can be. By nature, they are loving, loyal and happy dogs that love doing things with the family. Because of their high intelligence, training them is easy; however, training must be with a firm voice. They need consistency in the training and need to know what is expected of them. Any physical punishment will only make the dog upset and will not accomplish anything. They are very clever dogs and will try to get away with as much as they can (as is the case with most dogs!). Because of their nature bred prey drive, it is very important to socialize them with other animals regularly from a young age if they are expected to coexist with that animal regularly. Due to some of the negative publicity the American Pit Bull Terrier has gained due to other pit bull

varieties, you must train the dog at a young age to be sociable nonaggressive in behavior. Basic obedience training is a great way to start. There are many articles online and at your local library involving the American Pit Bull Terrier and methods of training that have been highly effective. The American Pit Bull Terrier often participates and does very well in agility training. Agility training is making your dog go through a timed numbered obstacle course. The only help he gets from you is body language and verbal commands. This dog does very well in many agility competitions. This training is also a great way for the American Pit Bull Terrier to use up some of his active energy. Weight pulling is another competition that this pit bull does very well in. They are hooked up to cart with so much weight in it. The dogs compete to pull the most and get to their destination first. The dogs love this and with all their strength, they do very well. Once the American Pit Bull Terrier masters his basic obedience training, many owners choose to enroll the dog in Schutzund training. Schutzund is a great way to teach your dog self-control and discipline beyond the basic obedience.

American Staffordshire Terriers

Life Span: 9 - 15 years. Litter Size: 4 - 8 puppies with the average being 6 puppies Group: Terrier, Terriers Male Weight: 57-67 pounds (25-30 kg.) Color: Black/White, Red/White, Fawn/White, Blue/White, and even Brindle/White. Hair Length: Short Living Area: Like many other breeds, the American Staffordshire Terrier will be quite content with apartment or small house living so long as they get enough exercise. Even if you don't have a yard, this breed will be happy, as they can be active indoors and keep their fitness levels up. Because of their thinner coat and sensitive skin, it's best that the American Staffordshire Terrier is kept in warmer climates in order to keep them comfortable.
Description

Size: Large Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height: 17-19 inches (43-48 cm.)

Female Height: 16-18 inches (41-46 cm.) Female Weight: 57-67 pounds (25-30 kg.)

The stocky and muscular look of the American Staffordshire Terrier makes this particular dog breed not only impressive, but also slightly intimidating to strangers and other dogs. The strength of this agile dog is apparent from the outer appearance. With a powerful and broad head

structure, the short muzzle is accentuated by a strong set jawbone. The ears of the American Staffordshire Terrier are often short and cropped. Like its cousin the American Pitt Bull Terrier, the American Staffordshire Terrier is a tough looking dog, but the American Staffordshire Terrier is often the larger of the two with a thicker bone structure, weight, and overall head size. The teeth are set in a scissors bite. The coat of this breed is short and shiny, making it simple to take care of for a wide range of owners. The eyes of the American Staffordshire Terrier are black and round, with a stern expression that can be perceived as both intimidating and alert. However, with a closer look, the American Staffordshire Terrier seems to be more of a lover than a fighter. Affectionate and loving, this dog breed works well in a family setting and can be a powerful guard dog if necessary.
Coat Description

The coat of the American Staffordshire Terrier is short and glossy, creating a vibrant shine when well managed. It can come in a variety of colors (as listed below) and is easy to maintain. Those that do not want to spend hours managing their dog's coat will find that this dog is that perfect fit for their time. The coat does appear dense, but it is not well-suited for temperature extremes, especially the cold.
History

The American Staffordshire Terrier originated in the 19th century in the Staffordshire region of England as a mixing of the bulldog and other terrier breeds. In this breeding process, the American version became the larger and more muscular version of the bulldog terrier. Once dog fighting was banned in the United States in the early 1900s, two versions of the American Staffordshire Terrier emerged - one for show and one for fighting. The fighting one is now considered to be the American Pit Bull Terrier, while the American Staffordshire Terrier is considered the gentler show version.
Temperament

With its powerful stance, it's no wonder that the American Staffordshire Terrier is a natural guard dog. This is a dog breed that naturally will want to protect its family and anyone it deems a part of its pack. The pack mentality in this particular breed is strong, so once you've asserted that you are a part of their pack, they will fiercely protect you. When they feel they are threatened, these are dogs that will become aggressive and even bite the intruder. Unlike other breeds, the American Staffordshire Terrier will also actively protect their owner's property too. This is an excellent combination for those that want that extra layer of protection for their home. What's more is that the American Staffordshire Terrier is a persistent fighter that will continue to fight until they feel the attacker or intruder is subdued. This tenacity is helpful in dangerous

situations can be problematic if they aren't taught properly who is friend and who is foe. These lessons will need to begin as quickly as possible including socialization with other pets and children that are in the home. Once this dog learns who their 'family' is, they will be docile and loving. This breed has actually been bred to be a family dog over the years. So while you should never leave a dog alone with a young child, the American Staffordshire Terrier is a good breed for all ages. If a dog is left unsocialized, it might have troubles interacting with other dogs. When the American Staffordshire Terrier feels it is being backed into a corner (whether figuratively or literally), it can lash out and become aggressive. Stable and outgoing, the American Staffordshire Terrier is a breed that will be fun to have around the house. They want to do nothing but please their master, so they will be willing to do whatever it takes to make you happy. However, that said, it should also be noted that the American Staffordshire Terrier is a dog that can be difficult to housetrain. You will need to spend extra time with these lessons to ensure this dog doesn't create a bathroom of your home's interior. Another thing to consider is that while this dog is a loving breed to have in a family setting, it does not do well with an owner that is not willing to assert their authority. The American Staffordshire Terrier takes the idea of pack order very seriously, so you will need to find ways to show that you are in charge of it in order to receive respect in return.
Health Problems

In most cases, the American Staffordshire Terrier is a hardy breed that doesn't suffer from a lot of Health Problems, but there are some concerns that do come up with some dogs:
hip dysplasia: A common disorder in canines, this degenerative disease causes the hip joint to become damaged, causing pain and problems with mobility. Symptoms occur over a long period of time and can manifest in symptoms such as slower movement and problems getting up and down. Treatment options will vary, but include exercises, pain medications, and even surgery. Heart disease - Some American Staffordshire Terrier dogs are born with this condition and symptoms and treatments vary. Many dogs have no problems at all, while others will require monitoring and medications to make sure the heart is working properly. Cataracts - Caused by genetic factors, these Cataracts can cause blindness and vision disturbances. Treatments are available for severe cases and require surgery to remove the Cataracts.

- Since the coat of the American Staffordshire Terrier is so short, the skin is often exposed to the elements and the outside environment. This often creates a situation in which the skin can become irritated more easily by insects or heat, even stress, causing hives or small welts in the skin. Grooming

The American Staffordshire Terrier has such a short coat that they often don't need a lot of maintenance for their appearance. Brushing with a coarse bristle brush on a regular basis is recommended. In addition, try to use dry shampoo to keep up the appearance of the coat and bathe only when absolutely necessary. Whenever your dog has gotten into something dirty or smelly, go ahead and give them a full bath. To really make their fur shine, you can use a clean car chamois on the surface. Moving this rag over the fur gives it a glossy sheen that will help your dog look healthy. Note that brushing will help keep your American Staffordshire Terrier from shedding in your living area. Though an average shedder, regular maintenance of the fur will allow you to minimize the effects of loose and shedding hairs. When you are brushing or bathing your American Staffordshire Terrier, be sure to examine the skin for any irritations that may indicate bacterial infections. Cuts and bumps that you do not recognize might be indicating something more serious than a superficial wound or sore. Check with your vet if you notice sores oozing or getting infected, as well as if you notice anything that seems to be spreading on their skin. Often, it will just be a case of hives, but it never hurts to double check. If you have bathed your dog, but then you notice that they smell worse after the bath, you might want to talk to your vet as well. The vet will check the dog's nose and mouth to be sure that nothing else is happening. Sometimes, a change in smell can be a sign of a systemic infection, so having your dog looked at by a vet can help to put your mind at rest.
Exercise

The American Staffordshire Terrier does require regular exercise in order to be healthy and happy. You will want to take this dog on frequent walks and keep them occupied with toys and other distractions. Owners that take their American Staffordshire Terrier out for an hour of walking each day report that their dogs are more content and don't become bored or fidgety when they are then brought back indoors. Since this is an intelligent dog, it may be a good idea to take the American Staffordshire Terrier to regular obedience classes to help them stay active as well as learn lessons of how to interact with others.

Training

The most important thing to realize about the American Staffordshire Terrier is that it bases its world on the idea of a pack order. This means that it believes that someone is going to be the leader of its life, whether that distinction is theirs or it is their owners, this is the result of training. Making sure the American Staffordshire Terrier is trained early to know that you are the authority can be a challenging task for any owner. But if you're someone that doesn't like to assert authority, it will be especially tricky, if not impossible to control this sort of breed. You will need to constantly remind the American Staffordshire Terrier that they are not the ones in charge and that you are. This will take consistent discipline and commands to help monitor their progress along the way. Many owners find that some assistance in an obedience class setting can help them get this training started, but since the dog will be in your care for most of the time, you need to be willing and able to keep up the lessons. While the American Staffordshire Terrier doesn't necessarily need to be attended to at every moment, this is a breed that likes to interact with its master. This might include tasks in which they can do something that will please you - i.e. fetching and pulling on a chew toy. You want to give this dog a lot of praise when you are training it, so that it knows it is pleasing you. This is the best way to approach training with this particular breed as negative training can often cause the dog to become upset or even defensive. However, if the American Staffordshire Terrier does do something it's not supposed to, you will need to be firm to assert your authority and ensure that the action does not happen again. Though they have a reputation for being guard dogs, some of their skills will have to come from you. For example, the American Staffordshire Terrier will not naturally bark at the door or at strangers, so you may need to teach them to do this, if this is a behavior you want encouraged. You will also need to realize that even if you aren't overtly trying to tell your American Staffordshire Terrier something, they can often pick up on subtle cues in your behavior. For example, if you're not firm in your training, they will not be consistent in their resulting behaviors. A American Staffordshire Terrier that is not trained well will often bark excessively, become aggressive and overly dominant, as well as have troubles with urinating. House training is of particular concern with this intelligent breed. If their owner is not firm about what is acceptable and what is not acceptable, you can create a situation in which the dog is urinating or defecating all over the house. It will help you to be firm with the dog right from the beginning in terms of what you expect for house training. You may also want to take classes in obedience training in this area prior to your dog's arrival in your home.

American Water Spaniels

Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:4-6 puppies per litter

Group:Gun Dog Color:Liver or chocolate in color with or without small white patches on the chest and white on the toes. Hair Length:Medium, Short Size:Medium, Large

Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:15-18 inches (36-46 cm) Male Weight:25-45 pounds (11-20 kg) Female Height:15-18 inches (36-46 cm) Female Weight:23-42 pounds (11-20 kg)

Living Area:Can adjust to a small, indoor space if provided with long, frequent and intensive exercise sessions. The breed does best in a larger, fenced yard to self-exercise and be outdoors.
Description

The American Water Spaniel is a very energetic and intelligent dog that has been used for hunting and retrieving throughout the midwestern areas of the United States. It is an excellent swimmer that loves being in the water, even in rough water conditions or in colder temperatures. The males and females should look slightly different with females lighter, finer boned and more feminine than their masculine counterparts. Both males and females should be very balanced and proportionate in appearance, and for breeders this is considered more important than the actual sizes of the dogs. The American Water Spaniel is a smaller sized spaniel that measures less than eighteen inches at the shoulder and weighs less than about 45 pounds for males and 40 pounds for females. They are characterized by a shorter, curly or wavy chocolate or liver colored coat, long, well fringed ears and a long tail that is used similar to a rudder when the dog is swimming. The head of the American Water Spaniel is rounded, broad and full with a moderate stop and square muzzle. The lips are tight to the teeth without fullness or drooping below the bottom lip. The eyes are well set and should correspond in color with the coat from hazel to dark brown. Eyes can be any color but yellow, which are actually a very bright lemon color, not a tawny or light hazel. The ears are long and well feathered. When extended to the nose the leather or length of the ears should come forward to touch the nose. The nose itself is moderate in size. The neck is long and well defined but not arched. The shoulders of the American Water Spaniel are sloping and muscular and the front legs should be well boned and muscled without appearing too heavy or too light. The chest is substantial and extends down to the elbows and back through the well sprung ribs. The body is very proportional for the size of the dog and should be muscular and athletic in appearance. The back is level and the withers are slightly higher than the hips. The tail is moderately long, moving constantly when the dog is in motion and curves in a gentle upwards turn at the hock. The hind legs should appear powerful and strong with a good drive and good length of stride. The front legs and the hind legs should appear parallel to each other and the feet should be straight and forward facing as the dog moves. As a water dog both the front and back feet will be webbed between the pads of the feet.

Coat Description

The coat of the American Water Spaniel is double with a harsher, oily feeling outer coat that is waved to very curly and a dense, thick inner coat that is softer and finer. The hair on the ears, chest, legs and tail is slightly longer and more fringed but still curly or wavy. The coat may not be uniformly wavy or curly with the hair across the back straighter than the hair on the chest or rump area.
History

There is little actual information on the development of the American Water Spaniel, although it has been a recognized breed by the American Kennel Club since 1940 and many other kennel clubs also recognize the breed. There are also many areas of the United States that claim the development of the breed, although it is most closely identified with the Midwest area of the US and is the state dog of Wisconsin. The breed was developed exclusively as a hunting dog and excels at both flushing birds as well as retrieval on both land and in the water. Many dog lovers believe it is a variety of Irish Water Spaniel whereas others believe it is a crossing of several breeds including the Tweed Spaniel, Curly coated retriever breeds and the English Water Spaniel may all have contributed to the genetic make-up of today's American Water Spaniel. The American Water Spaniel remains an excellent hunting dog today, although it is not as popular as many of the other hunting breeds. It is not typically seen at shows although it is often seen in championship hunting trials. As a sporting type of dog there is no need for registry to compete, so while the official AKC numbers are relatively low for this breed it is estimated that there are many more American Water Spaniels that are actually recorded.
Temperament

The American Water Spaniel is a very gentle, kind and affectionate dog as well as an energetic hunting dog and an incredibly intelligent worker. They are typically very good with children and other pets in the family, although they are known to be dog aggressive with strange dogs. The American Water Spaniel can be socialized while they are young and this will help prevent any aggression in both males and females. Intact males are most prone to being aggressive towards other dogs, especially in the presence of females in heat. The American Water Spaniel is a good companion dog and is well behaved in the house provided they have been properly trained. While not prone to chewing, they are known to be a barking breed and a good watchdog, although they are not typically good guard dogs due to their small size and spaniel temperament. Occasionally an American Water Spaniel can be timid, especially females. Socialization from an early age will help this behavior as well as the aggression in males. The American Water Spaniel can be a drooling breed, especially after eating or drinking. The American Water Spaniel is an excellent all round companion dog and loves to be around people. Despite their independent nature while hunting they do make ideal obedience dogs and are also fun loving and enjoy a good romp and run with the kids. The American Water Spaniel is

usually good with children and is sturdy enough to handle a fair amount of rough play. They are great fetchers and will happily play for hours chasing a ball or stick. A roaming breed the American Water Spaniel will need a fenced yard or to be kept on a lead until well trained to return when called. They can become focused on a scent or trail and will often track almost absentmindedly, roaming much farther than they intended. These dogs make excellent pets for moderate to extremely active families.
Health Problems

Generally the American Water Spaniel is a very healthy breed and is only occasionally bothered by hip and eye conditions. As with all breeds the American Water Spaniel will need regular vaccinations, worming and flea and tick treatment. For American Water Spaniels used in field events or hunting it is very important to check for ticks after every outing to prevent any possible diseases or infections that can be caused by contact with the ticks. Conditions occasionally seen in the American Water Spaniel include:
Canine hip dysplasia - CHD - a painful and degenerative, hereditary conditions effecting the hip joints. Can be very serious requiring surgery or may be relatively mild leading to stiffness. patellar luxation - dislocation of the kneecaps - Progressive Retinal Atrophy - degenerative and progressive disease of the retinal, leading to eventual blindness. Most dogs adjust to losing their sight and can live normal lives. Lenticular opacities - a type of cataract in the eye Allergies - environmental or food allergies are the most common. Grooming

The American Water Spaniel is a great breed for those dog owners that don't want to spend a great deal of time in grooming routines. The American Water Spaniel has a very oily feeling coat that may occasionally be somewhat "doggy" smelling. While the first instinct may be to bath the dog, this should only be a last resort. Over bathing or frequent bathing will strip the oils from the coat and may cause severe skin irritations and possible allergy type reactions. If you do need to bath the dog only use very gentle special dog shampoos and conditioners and be sure to rinse very thoroughly to remove any soap or product residue. Grooming can be done on a weekly or twice a week basis and requires only a stiff bristle brush and a blunt ended pair of scissors. Start by grooming the coat in the direction of hair growth, being very careful around sensitive areas such as the ears and face. The longer fringe hair can be groomed with the brush or with a special wide toothed grooming comb. The blunt ended scissors

are used to trim any hair from between the pads as well as to trim any long hairs elsewhere on the body. The ears should be carefully checked for any signs of discharge or infection. Usually this is first noted by a foul waxy smell coming from the ear. Carefully drying out the ear and wiping with an ear solution available from the vet will help eliminate waxy buildup. In addition you may wish to pluck the hairs from the outer ear to help the ear stay clean naturally.
Exercise

The American Water Spaniel does best with lots of regular exercise. They are not terribly choosy about what they are doing, as long as they are doing something fun, interesting and with the family. The American Water Spaniel is happy to go for a long walk through the neighborhood or go to the park in the off leash area and just get a chance to run. They are excellent retrievers and will spend as much time chasing the ball, toy or Frisbee as the owner will spend throwing it. It is important to never have the American Water Spaniel jump into the air to catch the ball or Frisbee, this can lead to problems with the joints as the dog matures. A true water loving dog the American Water Spaniel will usually jump immediately into any water he or she can find. Their coat is very water repellent and usually a quick shake a few minutes in the sun will have them dry enough to jump back into the car without a mess. Since they are such avid swimmers and this is an excellent form of exercise many owners combine a game of fetch with a swim, really adding to the fun of the outing for the dog. It is not always possible to take the American Water Spaniel out to the lake, beach or park however. They can learn to be moderately active indoors but will still need at least one walk or time outside per day. These pets prefer some outdoor time and are very good at self-exercising when outdoors either by themselves or with a companion dog. They will naturally roam and follow scent trails on the ground so a fence is essential for the breed. A well-exercised American Water Spaniel will be calm and relaxed indoors and will find a comfortable place to rest, typically as close to the family as it can get.
Training

The American Water Spaniel just wants to make the owner happy, making them a very pleasant and easy to work with breed of dog. Even as a puppy the breed goes out of its way to understand what the owner is asking. They are considered to be a very easy dog to train although socialization is very important and can cause problems in the future if not included in the training process. The breed is easy to housetrain and is very clean, making them an ideal candidate for crate training techniques. With consistency and effort on the part of the owner this breed typically will be housetrained in two to three weeks. The American Water Spaniel will tolerate fairly repetitious types of training although like any breed they enjoy variety. Since they are a very active and energetic dog it is advised that exercise periods start the training routine and also end

the training routine. This will allow the dog to always associate training with something fun. Training as hunting dogs requires additional time by the owner. Many hunters take their dogs to private trainers to help with the basics. Usually the dog is a hunter by nature, the training actually teaches the hunter and the dog how to work together while hunting. Many hunters choose to enter their American Water Spaniels in hunting trails and events, in which this breed will excel. It is very important when working with the American Water Spaniel that the handler never uses harsh punishment or a rough or mean tone of voice. These dogs can easily become cowed and nervous when negative type training methods are used. Work on the dog's strengths and use positive praise and ignoring rather than punishment based training for the best possible results.

Anatolian Shepherds
Life Span: 12 - 15 years Litter Size: 5 - 10 puppies with the average being 7 puppies Group: Flock Guard Male Weight: 100 - 150 pounds (45 - 68 kg.) Color: Tan, White, Light Brown, Sable Hair Length: Long, Medium Female Height: 26 - 28 inches (66 - 71 cm.) Female Weight: 90 - 130 pounds (41 - 59 kg.) Size: Extra Large Shedding: Heavy Shed Male Height: 28 - 30 inches (71 - 76 cm.)

Living Area: Anatolian Shepherds are generally not well suited for apartment life since they need a lot of activity and exercise to. Their best fit is in a large, secure, fenced-in yard. They need a lot of fresh air and exercise to stay healthy, and will become easily bored and destructive if they are kept indoors.
Description

The Anatolian Shepherd is large and powerful and is commonly used as a guardian dog. It has very similar traits as the Kuvasz and Great Pyrenees, but is more agile and tends to have a slender body type. The muscles on this dog are thin but supple, giving it freedom of movement and efficient hunting and racing skills. The Anatolian Shepherd is consequently capable of great speed and endurance, and can be trained to become a racing or hunting dog as well. The blunt profile of this dog is often black, and the rectangular muzzle is considerably shorter than the skull. The skull is wide and round, and may have a slight stop. The lips are usually black-edged and will hang down slightly below the upper lip. The upper lip is usually hanging just above the bottom jaw line, revealing teeth that meet in a scissors bite. Triangular ears are black with small rounded tips; they are usually pendant shaped and are cropped very short in certain areas of the world. The deep-set eyes of the Anatolian Shepherd are generally gold or

brown in color and are quite small. Dogs that are liver colored have brown rims and a brown nose, while the nose and eye rims of other dogs are generally black. These dogs have an intelligent expression and wide-set, almond-shaped eyes. Their ears are usually four to six inches in length, and they have a sturdy and strong head. A notable characteristic of the Anatolian Shepherd is its thick, muscular neck. This usually has a slight dewlap, and while the topline is level, it will have a rounded area at the loin. The chest area reaches out to the elbows, and the back is fairly short in comparison to the length of the legs. The Anatolian Shepherd's body is lean, powerful, muscular, and often has an arch in the back. The front legs are generally set straight and well apart. When the dog is alert, the tail is usually curled over the back and can hang with a slightly upward curl for the hocks. The Anatolian Shepherd's coat Is generally short or rough, and will be black or fawn in color. Other common colors include pinto, brindle, and white. The two basic coat types are medium or medium-long lengths, and the coat is usually longer around the collar and tail. Historically, these dogs have lived outdoors their entire lives. The dog may be suited to stay outside for the majority of the time, but can also be bought indoors in open spaces. It is a good idea to keep valuables and fragile items out of the way when these dogs are in the area since the dogs are fairly large.
Coat Description

Anatolian Shepherd dogs are usually fawn-colored or tan with a black mask; they may have spots of white, but are generally one color season after season. The coat can be medium or medium-long in length, and the coat is usually smooth and clean.
History

The Anatolian Shepherd is a native to Asia Minor, and is a natural sheep herder and protector of animals. It is commonly found to be a shepherd's companion, and has historically lived outside year round. Native to the Anatolian Plateau, the dog fares well in every season whether it is from exceptionally hot summers to very dry and bitter cold winters. The ancestors of this dog were often used as combat dogs or for hunting. They became particularly valuable for many battles with wolves, and some were raised to be fight dogs. These dogs do not tend to fatigue easily, and can maintain their strength, form, and mental alertness even during bad weather. They are closely related to the Kangal Dog, and have often been coined a Turkish shepherd. Many are from the Sivas-Kangal region, and the isolated conditions there have often resulted in a distinct breed. The truly Turkish Kangal Dogs continue to be working shepherds but exports of these dos has not become forbidden. The Kangal Dog Club of America works with various traders to ease import restrictions as these are considered to be a very important contribution to the genetic pool in the United States and other parts of the western world.

Temperament

The Anatolian Shepherd is very loyal and is commonly used as a guardian dog. Highly intelligent and easy to train, these dogs are very quick at picking up new skills and are generally not a suitable fit for beginners. These dogs need an owner who is a natural leader and can control and guide the dog to appropriate behaviors as needed. These dogs are naturally calm, brave, watchful, independent, and self-assured; they are not aggressive, but can be suspicious of strangers. They are often very affectionate with their own family, but strangers will need to be introduced to them formally in order to be accepted. Since the Anatolian Shepherd is naturally guarded, they can also become very possessive. In a home or porperty setting, this allows them to keep careful watch on the grounds and will ensure that the family or property owner knows when a stranger is in the area. The dogs are fairly friendly with people in general, unless they have suspicion to be otherwise. The dog is demanding of itself, and can sometimes be dominant or stubborn. When training, it is important to begin as early as possible and use motivational training methods on a consistent basis. A loving approach fares well with these dogs and they are more likely to correct their behaviors in a safe, secure, and loving environment. A fully grown dog can become too strong to be corrected and may not listen to the owner's requests. These dogs are very sensitive to reprimands but they are always eager to receive affection. They are patient and protective of their owners, children, and loyal to their families. They are natural protectors and do not require extra protection training. They can get along with many types of animals but tend to take a dominant role with other dogs. Obedience training at a young age is very important for these dogs, since they will generally follow the patterns of behavior they learn in the earliest years. They can become a pleasant and docile companion with simple steps and strategies in the young ears. They are naturally reserved with strangers, but can learn to warm up to new people fairly easily. They do have an obstinate personality at times, so it is important for owners to learn how to overcome challenges throughout their growth. Exposure to small animals at a young age will help these dogs overcome their natural chasing instinct. Socialization is important to these dogs and they tend to mature slowly. They reach full adulthood at just four years old, and many are trained to become flock guards. This often means that they live their entire lives with a flock, and may become under-socialized as a result. These dogs are best suited to guard, not herd, livestock. They can often be found patrolling a particular area and making sure they have careful watch over their territory.
Health Problems

The Anatolian Shepherd dog usually has Low immunity, and this can take longer to develop than other dogs. Other special medical conditions to be aware of:

hip dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness.

changes that may occur. Entropion Hypothyroidism Low immunity: this is very common, and extra vaccinations against the parvo-virus can overcome this problem over a long-term basis Grooming

The Anatolian Shepherd requires very little grooming and the coat simply needs to be brushed out during shedding seasons. These dogs shed heavily, but the shedding period is relatively short and once the hair has been removed, they will not need extensive grooming rituals on a regular basis. Keeping the coat smooth and clean is fairly easy by simply rubbing down the coat with a rubber glove. It can be difficult to keep a house or area clean during shedding season, but once you know what to expect, it becomes much easier. The coats are usually medium to medium-long in length, and vary very little in texture. It's still important to check for ticks during tick season, and a regular checkup with the Vet will ensure that the dog is naturally healthy and clean.
Exercise

Anatolian Shepherds need a lot of exercise and they will perform at their best when they can run free in the yard. This is why a fenced-in yard is so important, and it can be very beneficial for owners to create a wide area and space for their dog. These dogs have boundless energy both indoors and out. If they are not outside enough, they can become restless and destructive. Taking them for walks in the park or outdoors to play will help them get the exercise they need on a regular basis. The Anatolian Shepherd can be very playful and full of energy during bonding time with the owners. They tend to enjoy running alongside with you in parks and beaches, or playing with a Frisbee. They are excellent with 'fetch' games and can become very efficient. Regular walks are mandatory with the Anatolian Shepherd, and even when they are getting plenty of natural exercise from being outdoors, a formal walk can help them bond better with their owners and help them explore new parks or territory. Ideally, two walks per day are sufficient for them to meet their daily exercise needs. Keep in mind that these dogs have enormous amounts of energy and may even distribute their energy in short spurts. They do not fatigue easily, and will stay up late if needed just to run around and get the high levels of activity they need.

Training

Anatolian Shepherd dogs have natural instincts to learn how to guard and protect their territory, and rarely need formal obedience training to learn these skills. These dogs are adaptive and learn very quickly, and they will take direction from you with minimal reprimanding. They need to have plenty of space to move around, and giving them access to a kennel will help them to distinguish their boundaries. Puppies can follow you around as you do chores and take part in activities as they can bond well during this time. The dog will need to be reprimanded on occasion but will quickly learn from its mistakes. Frustrations may arise due to this dog's natural independence and ability to move quickly. The dogs are observant, intelligent, but can also become manipulative if they are distrustful of their owners. Since they are large in stature, it can become difficult to chase them down. However, once they learn their boundaries and rules, they become very strong and protective owners.

Australian Cattle Dogs

Life Span:12 - 15 years, but may live much longer. The record books show one ACD that lived to be 29 years old. Litter Size:1 - 7 puppies, average of 5 puppies Group:Herding, AKC Herding Male Weight:16 - 23 kg 35 - 50 pounds Color:Red and blue, some crosses display both colors at the same time. Many have what is called the Bentley mark on their foreheads - a white blaze. Female Height:43 - 48 cm 17 - 19 inches Female Weight:12 -18 kg 25 - 50 pounds Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium, Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:46 - 51 cm 18 - 20 inches

Living Area:This dog is extremely active and therefore needs a lot of mental stimulation - much like the Australian Kelpie. A bored ACD is not only trouble, but destructive. It NEEDS to be with people and cannot be left chained or penned in the back yard. If the ACD is isolated like that, it leads to serious personality problems. These dogs need to be part of the action and needs to be constantly on the go.
Description

The ACD is a sturdy, compact working dog. It is well muscled and very powerful, but agile. Its body is a bit longer than it is high and has a slightly curved tail that reaches just about to the hock. The front legs are normally perfectly straight when viewed from the front. However, as with

many breeds, there can be variations in their conformation. The head is quite broad and slightly rounded, and flattens to a slight but definite stop. Ears are widely set, and moderately pointed and pricked. They are muscular with thick leather, but are not spooned or bat eared. The inside of the ears has a fair amount of hair. The medium size oval eyes are dark brown and the foreface is broad and well filled in under the eyes. The muzzle is medium in length, very deep and the skull and muzzle are on parallel planes. The teeth should meet in a scissors bite. This is crucial for this herding dog that heels or bites at its livestock to move them. No overshot or undershot should be present. The lips are very clean and the nose is black. The ACD neck is very strong and blends into the body. The top line of this dog is level, with a strong back and well-sprung ribs. Its chest is deep and moderately broad, with broad and muscular loins and deep flanks. ACD feet are round with short toes that are well arched and close together. Footpads are deep and hard, with short strong nails. This is one very well put together dog.
Coat Description

The Australian Cattle Dog coat has a double coat, the short, straight protective outer and the short, kinky but dense undercoat. The outer coat is straight hair that lays flat and is rain resistant. Under the ACDs body to behind the legs the coat is longer forming a mild form of breeching near the thigh. The head, inside the ears, fronts of legs and feet all sport short hair. The hair on the neck is longer and thicker, sort of like a mane. Australian Cattle Dogs don't shed year round, instead they blow coat about once a year just before the summer months.
History

This breed was developed in the 1800's in Australia because stockmen needed a dog with the stamina to handle the harsh conditions in their country. Dogs that came to Australia with the settlers were from Europe and were called Smithfield and the old Smooth Collie. They could not handle the long distances and the harsh weather. That's when breed experimentation started. Some of the breeds used to develop the ACD were: the Dingo, Smooth Haired Scotch Merle Collies, the Dalmatian, the Bull Terrier and the Australian Kelpie. The end result was an outstanding herding dog with superior stamina that could work stock quietly yet with enough insistence to get the job done well. One who was willing and quite able to drive cattle across vast distances in the worst weather conditions. Robert Kaleski drafted the standard for the breed in 1893, which was finally approved in Australia in 1903. The Australian Cattle Dog was fully recognized by the AKC in 1980.

Temperament

ACDs are usually reserved with strangers and fiercely protective if they perceive their property and/or people are being threatened. Hard headed and stubborn, once an ACD has taken a shine to you, they are your friend for life. Make no mistake about it though this friendship must be earned. ACDs are also affectionately referred to as Velcro or shadow dogs because they are stuck to you like glue. Anywhere you go they are dogging your footsteps. These dogs are very loyal, protective and alert and make excellent guard dogs. They are also brave and trustworthy. They can make some serious points in the obedience ring and in herding and agility. The ACD needs to be handled firmly yet fairly, and it is totally loyal and obedient to its master, and it's a one-person dog. They can suspicious of people and dogs they don't know and can be very dog aggressive, because they are very dominant. This is not a good dog with children unless it has known the children since puppyhood. Many tend to nip at people's heels in an attempt to herd them. Avoid strictly working lines if you are looking for just a pet, as these dogs are too active and intense for home life. Australian Cattle Dogs are very easy to train due to their high level of intelligence. The puppies are born white (inherited from Dalmatian crosses), but adult colors are seen in the paw pads.
Health Problems Australian Cattle Dogs are generally a quite hardy breed, but do have some medical conditions to be aware of: Progressive Retinal Atrophy: manifests as night blindness, slowly progresses to total blindness. hip dysplasia - a hereditary disease that can cause crippling lameness and painful arthritis of the joints. Deafness - scientists are not sure if the mode of inheritance of Deafness in ACDs is the same as that in Dalmatians (which are reported to have been used in the development of the breed). Cataracts - any opacity or loss of transparency of the lens of the eye. Dermatomyositis - inflammation of the skin and muscle. Portosystemic Shunt - an abnormal blood flow in the liver. patellar luxation - or trick knee, a condition where the kneecap dislocates or moves out of its normal location. Ruptured Anterior Cruciate Ligaments - most commonly torn when the dog twists on his hind leg. The twisting motion puts too much tension on the ligament and it tears.

Grooming

The Australian Cattle Dog with its short hair and highly weather resistant coat, needs very little grooming and coat maintenance. If you brush it regularly with a firm bristle brush and they receive good nutrition, the coats will stay healthy. There seems to be some differences of opinion on how often to bath your ACD - some saying regular baths won't hurt and others insisting they only be bathed when they really need to be. It often boils down to a matter of what is right and works for YOUR dog. Those who prefer to wash often say regular bathing won't harm your dog's coat but make sure you a good quality dog (not human) shampoo that doesn't dry the coat. An oatmeal shampoo or tea tree oil shampoo works wonders. Often called the wash and wear breed, it tends to clean up really well. Those who only bathe the dog when it's necessary suggest brushing once a week. Since these are herding dogs, their feet really important. Their nails should be kept short to maintain their strength and the pads inspected regularly for cuts or bruises and other foreign matter. Keep the ears clean as well. The ACD sheds up to twice a year (depending on sex and geography).
Exercise

Since the ACD is such an active breed an owner/handler must make a firm commitment to exercise frequently. ACDs are great running or biking companions but don't over exert the young dog or it will ruin its joints. Due to their high intelligence, they make great obedience prospects. Be aware this very intelligence can also be a drawback as this dog is not beyond manipulating you to get what it wants. ACDs are also outstanding in Dog Sports - like Flyball, Agility and Frisbee. Many also like to holler at things that fly and have been known to chase birds up and down the yard, barking at them to smarten up and fly right. Sponges for affection, these dogs will sit and grin at you when you take the time to talk to them and play games with them.
Training

Due to their intelligence, the ACD is easy to train, however they are hard-headed and stubborn. Meaning, they would be less compliant than some other breeds. To have a well-trained ACD you need to have the dog's respect, and vice versa. Keep things interesting while you are training your ACD. While this breed learns fast it can get easily bored with repetition. Firm but fair training methods are best. You must be the pack leader or Alpha dog. At home, you are the dog's pack and if you don't set yourself up to be the leader

your ACD will take the role over, and usually with some disastrous results. Being a pack leader isn't about being big and mean and scary. It is an attitude, an air of authority. Your dog must learn you have the power to handle him, and that handling will not lead to any harm. Your dog must trust you completely. Your ACD won't learn if he isn't paying attention. Make sure any stimulus is strong enough to get him to give you eye contact. Working with signals only is a good way to teach your dog to keep one eye on you at all times. Use positive, not negative reinforcement to train. Positive reinforcement is something your dog perceives as a good result. Negative reinforcement is any result that doesn't please him. Remember any inappropriate behaviors cannot be eliminated overnight. Good behaviors take time to develop.

Australian Kelpies
Life Span:10 - 14 years Litter Size:4 - 7 puppies Group:Herding, Working, Primitive-Pariah Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Color possibilities include black, and red, each with or without out tan; and fawn, chocolate and blue (gray) from dark to light. Minimal white markings like a spot, strip or a blaze are sometimes present as are white stockings. Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:17-20 inches (43-51 cm.) Male Weight:25-45 pounds (11-20 kg.) Female Height:17-20 inches (43-51 cm.) Female Weight:25-45 pounds (11-20 kg.)

Living Area:This dog is NOT suited for life in an apartment. They are working dogs and need plenty of open space to run. The working Kelpies LIVE to work and need to have a job to do. With the kind of coats they have - all-weather and quite adaptable - they can live in hot and cold climates. They are happiest outdoors with adequate shelter.
Description

The Australian Kelpie has a compact body with well-developed limbs. Slightly longer than he is tall, he has a broad chest and firm hindquarters. The head is long and narrow. The medium length tail is low set. The short, compact feet have well arched toes. The double coat consists of a short and dense undercoat and a hard, straight and weather-repellent outer coat.

The Working Kelpie (as opposed the the Show Keltie) comes in three coat types, smooth, short and rough. Many Kelpies have a white blaze on the chest, a few have white points. Kelpies used to have a double coat at one time, likely due to environmental factors. Agouti (The Agouti protein causes a banding effect on the hair) is not unusual, and initially looks like a double coat. Ears are usually widely spaced and pricked, but it seems at least 20% have one or both ears flopped. The ears run to a fine point and are strong at the base. The Kelpie's tail often follows the coat type and varies between smooth and bushy. Kelpie eyes should be widely spaced medium sized and almond shaped. Eye color should be tawny-gold to brown, harmonizing with coat color. For lighter colored dogs, a hazel eye is apparent as are the matching tan markings above the eye. The skull is slightly rounded and broad between the ears with the forehead curving very slightly towards a pronounced stop. The foreface is very finely chiseled. The muzzle tapers towards the nose and is rather elegant compared to the skull. The teeth need to be strong and evenly spaced with a scissors bite.
Coat Description

The outer coat is moderately short, flat, straight and weather resistant with a dense undercoat. Head, ears, feet and leg hair should be short. The coat is longer at the neck, showing a fair amount of ruff. There's a mild breeching, and the hair on the tail is sufficient to form a brush.
History

The Australian Kelpie (known since 1870) has a really interesting background. Many believe the Kelpie, because of its distinctive face and eyes, is the result of a Dingo crossed with a Border Collie. The Dingo is thought to be the ancestor of all dog breeds - the base stock. The name Kelpie actually comes from the water kelpie in Robert Louis Stevenson's novel Kidnapped. Their actual origin is that they were developed from English North Country Collies of the Rutherford strain. Working dogs, they were imported to Australia in the late 19th century. Currently there are roughly 100,000 Kelpies in service in Australia. They have no limitations and can work reindeer, poultry, goats and cattle. Outstanding in obedience competitions. This breed has actually been separated into two groups: the Show Kelpie and the Working Kelpie. The Show Kelpie is seen at conformation shows and has almost no herding instict. Working Kelpies are bred for their herding instincts.
Temperament

The Australian Kelpie is one of the most popular working dogs, as well as one of the most successful. They go until they drop and literally live to work, not work to live. They seem to borrow a page out of the Border Collie's book when it comes to Type A personalities. Very

independent thinkers, they loathe boredom and need to have constant stimulation to keep their busy minds engaged. These are highly devoted one-man dogs with a total goal focus of working, and do not make good indoor pets. They are bred to live outside and thrive on being where they can see different things and do different things. They are easy to train and they are noted for their keener attitudes - ready to respond instantly to any signal given by their master, even from a long distance. Kelpies, like Border Collies, will attempt to herd other dogs, pets and animals whether they want to be herded or not. They also use a similar technique in herding to the Border Collie's "eye", but nip instead. They are noted to be able to turn thousands of sheep from the pasture to the pen to the truck. A real sight to behold. What is even more amazing it to watch them walk across a herd of sheep by running across the flock on their backs. Never one to waste time, they take the shortest route to solve herding problems. The Australian Kelpie is outstanding with children if they are raised with them from puppyhood. The Kelpie is an excellent watchdog and can even be trained as a seeing-eye dog. Although not aggressive, the Kelpie will protect his family and their possessions when needed, no matter what the risk is to himself.
Health Problems Kelpies are generally a quite hardy breed, but do have some medical conditions to be aware of: Progressive Retinal Atrophy: manifests as night blindness, slowly progresses to total blindness. Cryptorchidism - absence of one or both testicles. hip dysplasia - a hereditary disease that can cause crippling lameness and painful arthritis of the joints. Cerebellar abiotrophy - a genetic disease that can affect balance and coordination. patellar luxation - or trick knee, a condition where the kneecap dislocates or moves out of its normal location. Grooming

The Australian Kelpie is very easy to groom. In fact you can get by with an infrequent combing and brushing. Bathe only when necessary as otherwise it will remove the natural oils in the weather-resistant coat and dry out the skin. This breed is an average shedder. Since this is an outdoor working dog, and is usually around livestock, you will want to make certain you check them for injuries incurred while working. Cuts, scrapes, bruises and things of that nature. Check for barbed wire cuts or glass and small rocks embedded in their paws. Since they work with livestock, check their teeth on a regular basis for any loose, cracked, chipped or

missing teeth due to injury. Also make certain to check for any wild life that likes to make its home in the fur of passing dogs - whether this is ticks, fleas or other burrowing animals. Even though these dogs are always on the run, pay attention to the length of the toenails.
Exercise

The Australian Kelpie is a working dog that demands a great deal of exercise, preferably with some kind of job to do. Their energy levels are extremely high!! They are workaholics and will run until they drop!! It is a bit of an understatement to say these dogs actually do best with an athlete's training schedule - daily exercise, and lots of it and intense. These are busy minded and busy bodied dogs with extreme intelligence. If left idle they can become bored and very destructive. As an additional part of the Kelpie's exercise routine, make sure to stimulate the mind. These dogs excel at problem solving and thrive on being able to do things.
Training

Due to their intelligence, the Kelpie is easy to train, however they tend to use their own initiative. Meaning, they would be less compliant than some other breeds. To have a well trained Kelpie there needs to be a good relationship with their owner and they need to respect that owner. These dogs think and their ability to solve complex problems is phenomenal. The working Kelpie mostly uses his own initiative and works well in unsupervised conditions. The Kelpie may not wait for a command to act but tries to anticipate what is needed - and usually succeeds in getting it right. Keep things interesting while you are training. This breed learns fast but can be easily bored. Firm but fair training methods are best. You, not your Kelpie are the Alpha dog - the pack leader. In your home, you are the dog's pack and if you don't set yourself up to be the Alpha dog (leader) your dog will take the role over himself. Anyone can be a pack leader. It is done without being big and mean and scary. It is an attitude, an air of authority. That is what you build upon for mutual respect and communication. First though, your dog must learn you have the power to handle him, and that handling will not lead to any harm. Your dog must come to trust you completely.

Australian Shepherds
Life Span: 12-15 years Litter Size: 6 - 9 puppies - Average is about 7 Group: Livestock/Herding; The Herding Group. Color: Blue merle, red merle, black, and red. Each of these colors may also have tan

points on the eyebrows, cheeks, and/or legs; thus also creating a black tri and red tri color variations. Hair Length: Medium Size: Large Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height: 20-23 inches at the withers
Description

Male Weight: 50-65 pounds Female Height: 18-21 inches at the withers Female Weight: 40-55 pounds Living Area: Not recommended for living in the city. They need a large fenced in yard and open country.

Sometimes referred to as "ghost eye", the eyes can either be green, hazel, amber, brown, or blue. They may also have bi-colored eyes (each eye is a different color), split eyes (eye is half-green, half-brown), or merled eyes (one color is mixed in and swirled with another); any of these colors are accepted. The eyes should be expressive, almond-shaped, and well-defined. Their eye rim color is vital in avoiding flying hooves, as it absorbs sunlight and reflects the suns' rays away from the eyes; black and liver rims are best. Blue merles, blacks, and black-tri colored dogs will usually have black noses, while the red merles, reds, and red-tri colored dogs, will have liver noses. Merles are allowed small pink spots on their nose, but must not make up more than 25%. The skull ranges from flat to slightly domed shaped with a well-defined stop. The length and width should be equal, with the overall size in proportion to the rest of the body. The ears should be triangular in shape, and rounded at the tip; they should be long enough for the tips to reach the inside corner of the eye. Teeth are to meet in either a scissors or level bite. The tail can either be straight, docked, or naturally bobbed; it should be no more than 4 inches long. Since tails are docked anyways, they are not necessarily breed for, which can result in having puppies born with wide varieties of tail length. Breeders will usually dock tails at 2-3 days of age. The shoulders are well laid back, long, and flat, and lay fairly close to the withers. The neck is slightly arched of medium length, well set into the shoulders in proportioned to the body. The chest is long and deep, with well-sprung ribs that help increase lung capacity. The topline is flat and level. The front legs should be strong, straight, and oval-shaped. Removal of dewclaws on the front legs are optional, but must be removed from the rear legs; this is done between 2-3 days of age as well. The feet are oval shaped, compact, with well-arched toes; the pads should be black or liver.
Coat Description

The Australian Shepherd is a double coated breed. The overcoat varies from straight to wavy to curly, and is of medium length and texture; it is also weather proof. Like all other double coated breeds, the undercoat is soft and dense. Most Australian Shepherds will blow their coat once a year in the early summer months, though some may blow twice a year. It is found that Australian

Shepherds kept inside shed all year long. There should be feathering on the backs of forelegs and britches, as well as a moderate mane and frill around the neck. Males usually have a thicker mane than females. The hair on the head and front of the forelegs is shorter than the rest of the coat. White is acceptable on the neck, chest, legs, muzzle, underparts, and blaze. A white collar must not exceed to the point of the withers.
History

The Australian Shepherd was developed in the 19th and earlier 20th centuries, in western North America. It is unclear to where the name "Australian" came from, other than the only dogs coming from Australia were merle in color. European settlers immigrating to the United States brought over many herding breeds to take care of the livestock. Breeds thought to be used in the makeup of the breed include the: English Shepherd, Dorset Blue Shag, Cumberland Sheepdog, Scottish Collie, Glenwherry Collie, Bouvier des Flandres, and the Welsh Sheepdog. It is believed that most of the dogs that contributed to the breed came from Great Britain and Scotland. It wasn't until later on, that shepherds began to breed dogs that excelled in watching the flock and weathered well in the area; other than at random. Those that worked well in hot and cold climates, as well as being tough enough to work cattle unaccustomed to dogs, were used for breeding. After World War II, they were used regularly in Western movies, television shows, and in rodeos. They soon became a popular addition to farms and ranches.
Temperament

The Australian Shepherd is a highly intelligent, active dog. Though somewhat shy around strangers, they are good natured and delightful companions. Because of their love for play, they make great family dogs, always wanting to be in the midst of their family. They are great with children, though some may try to herd them by nipping at their heels; this can be prevented with proper training. These loyal companions are eager to please and never want to leave your side; the term "Velcro dog" comes to mind. They form powerful bonds with their people, which can sometimes lead them to be very protective and territorial of their families' possessions. Courageous, yet affectionate, this breed is highly versatile in adapting to whatever their family asks of them. Dogs of strong working lines may be more reserved, protective and territorial than ones bred for a family-oriented environment.
Health Problems

Major Health concerns for the Australian Shepherd are:

 Cataracts Collie Eye Anomaly ( CEA ) autoimmune disorders hip dysplasia. hip dysplasia is when the bones in the hip joint do not form properly. It causes the thighbone to pop out of the hip socket, resulting in hip pain and in some cases complete lameness. They are at risk for numerous genetic eye defects as well: nasal solar dermatitis Pelger-Huet syndrome lumbar sacral syndrome Epilepsy von Willebrands distichiasis Patent ductus arteriosis n (used in heartworm medicines)

ocular coloboma iris coloboma juvenile and senior cataracts detached retina Persistent Pupillary Membrane Progressive Retinal Atrophy distichiasis .

Mostly all of their Health Problems are hereditary, such as Heart disease, elbow dysplasia, cancer, Allergies, and thyroid dysfunction. As early as 6 weeks, they can be checked by a veterinarian to determine whether any eye defects are present; at 2 years of age they can also be checked for hip dysplasia. Those dogs found to have any hereditary defects, should be spayed and neutered, and removed from the Breeding program. The gene that creates the merle patterning also carries a blind/deaf factor. Breeding merle-to-merle can result in deaf or blind puppies, as well as other defects; breeding natural bobtails-to-natural bobtails can also result in spinal defects. Grooming

The Australian Shepherd is an average to heavy shedder. One should plan on vacuuming often, as even after a thorough brushing more loose hair will fall off. Weekly brushing with a slicker brush, followed by a series of comb-outs, is best; start with a coarse comb and then moving on to the medium comb. A shedding rake is also recommended, as it will remove all of the dead hair in the undercoat, making it easier to comb through. If mats are found on the dog, shaving is not recommended, as it can leave them vulnerable to sunburn and possibly scarring; pin brushes work great for removal of mats. Pay close attention to the feathering on the front and back legs, as well as behind the ears, as these are where most mats are found. A thorough brushing is recommended every 6-8 weeks. Most Australian Shepherd owners find there is a process that works well in giving the coat a good, complete brush through. Begin by brushing with the grain of the hair, in small section to be sure the undercoat is being reached; then against the grain with a pin brush. Finally, work the coat back to its original place. Do not bathe too often, is it removals the natural oils in the coat, and can leave them with dry skin. Brushing and dematting should be done before bathing. After bathing, you will want to blow dry them until completely dry. Left with a damp coat can

create skin problems. Keeping at least a foot away on medium heat, and using a pin brush, will hurry up the process. Finish up with another comb-out.
Exercise

Australian Shepherds require a great deal of vigorous exercise, and athletic activities to keep them satisfied. Daily walks are a must to give them the opportunity to vent their energy as well as mental stimulation. Getting involved in agility, herding, rally, or obedience are perfect outlets for all that energy. They are not intended to be a house pet; They require a job to perform. When they become bored, they get out of hand, destroy things (by chewing), and endlessly bark. They demand constant attention and want to be by your side no matter what. Working lines may also be too energetic to be a suitable pet; they are more at home in wide open country working with livestock. One of the most common reasons Australian Shepherds are brought to shelters, is because their owners had no idea on how much energy they have and were not willing to help channel that energy through exercise.
Training

The key to a well-balanced Australian Shepherd is through training and socialization. Providing enough socialization should include exposure to people and animals, as well as areas with varying levels of distractions. The breed can become very suspicious around unusual people, due to the fact that they are very territorial and protective of their family. Australian Shepherds were bred to work livestock on daily basis. Because not everyone has a flock of sheep in their backyard, this breed requires a "job". Whether it is given toys focused on mind-stimulation, being engaged in play, or focused on training, this breed needs something to do. This breed is very intelligent, and learns very quickly. They excel at, and enjoy agility, rally, flyball, frisbee, and obedience. A lot of time, attention, and training is needed to handle such a strong-minded breed. Attending training classes is a must for owners and their Australian Shepherd, especially in their first year.

Australian Terriers
Life Span: 11-14 years, though some have lived to be 17. Litter Size: 3-5 puppies with the average being 4 puppies Group: Terrier, Terriers Color: The coat colours include: black, black/white, tan/black, red/black, white, ivory, cream, yellow and silver.

Hair Length: Medium Size: Toy/Small Shedding: Lite Shed

Male Weight: 14-16 pounds (7kg) Female Height: 9 inches (22cm) Female Weight: 12-14 pounds (6kg)

Male Height: 10 inches (25cm) Living Area:The Australian terrier will happily live in even quite confined spaces, though you will have to provide a great deal of entertainment and scheduled walking to keep them from becoming destructive. They are happiest when they have at least a small yard to play in and patrol.
Description

These little dogs are essentially small terrier hybrids that were bred for the very specific purpose of killing the local rats and snakes in 19th century Australia. As such, the Aussie's ancestor dogs are generally those terriers that originate from the British Isles just as the European migrants did. The American Kennel Club has recognized this breed since 1960 as Britain's official kennel club did nearly 30 years earlier. Today, Australian Terriers remain common in Australia and are gaining in popularity in other countries, too. The breed's friendly and fun-loving nature makes them ideal for a great many city and suburban dwellers that want a companion who can chase rats that isn't a cat. Aussies look a lot like many of the breeds they're descended from. As such, they may be black like a Scottish Terrier or black and tan like a Yorkshire Terrier or silvery like a Cairn Terrier or, even pure white like a West Highland terrier. However, they always have a coarse outer coat over soft under-coat that makes them good in inclement weather. There is a very similar but separate breed of dog called the Australian Silky Terrier. Those dogs are very much the same except for their long, finely textured hair that most closely resembles that of a Silky or Yorkshire terrier that needs to be regularly groomed. By way of comparison, the Aussie is usually plucked when necessary and requires only the most cursory of grooming. Physically the Australian Terrier tends to be a bit shorter than long with a thick stout body and an especially thick collar of fur around the neck. Today, these Aussie dogs are most often found as companion animals because of their happy nature and adorably fearless. Aussie dogs also do well in the country, though they are sure to want to be near you if you're around.
Coat Description

The topcoat is always thick and wiry with a soft undercoat of varying thicknesses beneath: so much so that, the hairs growing around the face often need to be removed.

History

It is said the Australian Terrier is a mixture of several different breeds of terrier that were shipped from England just as a lion's share of the European Settlers were. By the 1820s there was a dog known to locals as the Australian Terrier that didn't fully come into existence as a breed with an official standard until the latter part of the century. The official lineage of the Aussie dog is unknown, partly because so many dogs went into the creation of this breed uniquely suited to Australian conditions. The breed is an example of taking a genetic pool, combining it together again and picking the animals that fare best. The rapid development of the breed suggests the early mortality rate of the plucky progenitor terriers was high. It is thought that several of the Australian Terrier's adaptations are for dry, dusty conditions and hunting snakes. These include a rather thick ring of tough fur and a fearless attitude. Aussie dogs and their shrill barks were also once ideal for their use as watchdogs on a frontier that still contained real dangers, well into the 20th century.
Temperament

Like the stereotypical Australian human, the Aussie Terrier is an easy-going and happy-go-lucky dog that loves the company of others. Since they were bred to protect buildings from vermin, they are fully adapted to living in close quarters with human beings. Like all other terriers, the Aussie loves to dig - rarely confining tunnelling practice to appropriate times and places. It is generally a good idea not to put garden space anywhere near the dog run, especially if you bury fish heads or use some other sort of compost that's animal derived. Quite intelligent and always on the go, some people have described them as the "clowns" of the dog world, even going so far as trying to cheer up sad meters of their human family. Unless they are on "duty" protecting the house or chasing off an interloper, they will be very attentive. Aussies are usually good with older children who have been trained not to mess with the dog, though you should never leave young children and toddlers alone with any terrier. The children may fall over onto or otherwise injure there rather small dogs. Though the Aussie dog is sturdy and quick, he or she may also nip children that pull or squeeze the ears. As a breed that was designed to hunt vermin, once they're on the job, or see something move in their peripheral vision, they're on the go with a single-minded purpose. Your dog won't likely respond to commands until the matter is fully investigated to his or her specifications. This may include your other pets if they're not all carefully introduced and acclimated. Also, since Aussies are apparently capable of turning their ears off, it's most often good to keep them on the leash. Not particularly affectionate, these Aussie dogs will often bond closely to one or two members of

the family. They tend to be rather sensitive creatures in close quarters, partly because they were bred to live in close confines with human beings. On the other hand, they can also be very quick to anger when protecting something that's "theirs," often growling or becoming nippy. They are especially defensive with larger dogs and other animals. The most common complaint among those who keep Australian Terriers in the city is in regard to their barking. They often have a high pitched, yappy bark that can drive some people crazy. It may be good to spend some time crate training very young puppies and get on them for the barking immediately and every time. While Australian Terriers are usually capable of taking training, they will require a bit more patience on your part than a retriever. They are quite simply stubborn in all they do. It's the same characteristic that makes them stalwart in the "field."
Health Problems Aussies suffer from a few congenital disorders that are not typically fatal, even at their worst. They are generally healthy dogs that live many, years. Bad Skin: sensitive to chemical soaps and often breaking out in bumps or spots. Most dogs benefit from a mild natural or hypoallergenic soap. Flea bite dermatitis: they may overreact to flea bites and bite holes in themselves and wear their teeth down. patellar luxation : the kneecap can actually pop out of socket once or continually. This is usually corrected with surgery. Legg Calve Perthes : In the first year, a bone the leg attaches to will begin to actually die and be reabsorbed into the body. Early medical intervention is often successful and the onset can be as early as 5 months. Grooming

Aussie dogs are among the easiest to groom. Their thick wiry coats make it easy to keep them clean and tidy, and they shed little. While other terriers can benefit from brushing regimens as frequent as every 3-4 days. This breed often requires only a weekly or bi-weekly brushing to be kept in perfect shape, thanks to the unique properties of their stiff wire coat. Indeed, aussie dogs have such thick hair that it's sometimes irritating, especially around the eyes. These are either cut or plucked. Otherwise the only other trimming your dog is likely to require may be a trim of the fur that grows between your dog's paw pads. Country dogs will require more frequent inspection and grooming than their urban counterparts. Unless they roll in something truly foul, it's usually best to avoid washing them more than a few times a year.

The breed is also pone to skin problems, and a part of regular grooming may be to treat dry or scaling skin. They may also develop horrible red welts when attacked by even just a few fleas. Other problems may involve pimples and black heads, even in older dogs. Many skin maladies clear up after adulthood, which they reach at about a year. Their ears are upright and don't readily get a build-up of wax like floppy ears do. It is recommended by some that you pluck the hairs on the ears, though it is good to keep in mind that terriers hate to have their ears touched. It's a good idea to make it a point when spending time with your puppy, to touch his or her ears regularly. It's also a good idea to make grooming something to look forward to with positive reinforcement in the form of meat bits and praise. This is especially useful when performing the hated task of nail clipping. Many people just take the dog into the vet or groomer's to have them taken of. Whether you do it yourself of hire out the job, the dog's nails should be trimmed regularly, with careful attention paid to the dewclaws that don't get worn down at the same rate as claws that touch the ground. Be very careful when cutting black nails and always be sure to err on the side of caution whenever you can. It is also important to pay attention to oral hygiene with your dog. There are several kinds of tiny toothbrushes, even some that fit on your finger. With such small dogs, you can even use a gauze pad and wrap that around your finger. With a very small amount of baking soda or special poultry flavoured toothpaste, you can keep on this yourself. Small dogs also have the advantage of being able to chew on real beef bones without suffering splinters. This helps keep your dog's teeth clean without having to intervene. Dental toys are also often effective, but you shouldn't play tug of war with a puppy using one.
Exercise

Since Australian Terriers are small, they don't need nearly as much exercise as a real horse of a dog, but they do require some sort of constant, even low-level activity. In short, they need a job and if you don't give them one, they'll make one for themselves, be it digging or barking or just becoming bitter and resentful. Even mental exercise is adequate, though a combination of both is ideal. Nice long walks are just as important as is regular playtime, especially with puppies. Aussies are very spunky and are often found playing with toys and balls when left to their own devices. They are not always good with other dogs, so letting them off at off-leash parks may not be a good idea, as Aussies (and very especially Aussie dog males) often get into fights with larger dogs that have just come over to investigate.
Training

Though the Australian Terrier is a genuinely friendly and intelligent animal that wants to please his or her owner, you will need to be firm, especially if you're doing something your dog doesn't

approve of for some reason. You must establish yourself as boss to this clever dog before you'll be accepted as the alpha. That means making sure you're consistent with your commands and not imposing punitive measures that are well in excess of the transgression. Positive reinforcement works the best and Crate training during the initial housebreaking stage can be a very handy tool for new puppy owners who want to keep their new dogs from establishing a scent of urine in their homes. This breed is somewhat prone to stubbornness and that can include housetraining and simple obedience training. They are naturals at agility tests and Earth-trials. The easiest way to get an Australian Terrier ready to learn is to get them nice and tired out with some vigorous exercise. Long walks and vigorous playtime are useful exercises. They are very good at running around in the underbrush looking for rodents, but it may not be a good idea to do this somewhere your dog could get lost or run out into traffic. They also require mental stimulation, and one without the other won't be nearly as effective. Interactions with new people, animals and experiences are very good for your dog's mental health. A poorly socialized dog is prone to all sorts of embarrassing and potentially problematic situations. Taking them out in to public and meeting others is absolutely necessary to create a dog that will be the happy companion that's a joy to be around.

Basenjis
Life Span:10-12 years although and occasional Basenji has lived up to 20 years of age. Litter Size:4 to 6 puppies Group:Southern and AKC Hound Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:According to the American Kennel Club standards there are four basic colors: Red, black, tricolor, which consists of black with tan in their traditional pattern) and brindle (red with black stripes), each of these with white on the tail, chest and feet. Hair Length:Short Size:Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:16-17 inches (41-43 cm) Male Weight:22-26 pounds (10-12 kg)

Female Height:15-16 (38-41) Female Weight:20-25 pounds (9-11 kg) Living Area:The Basenji can live outdoors with a big yard or in an apartment provided they get exercise daily and lots of it. It is important to remember when your Basenji is bored, he will begin chewing things-anything is his sight so if you live in an apartment, he should not be left there alone. In many ways, they are similar to a hyperactive child.
Description

The Basenji, which originated in Africa, is a small, shorthaired and athletic dog with a smooth shiny coat and is the size of a fox terrier. They have a shiny coat of a number of different colors usually having white feet as well as white on the chest and tip of the tail. The Basenji is an elegant dog with long legs and a level back. Many think they have a perpetual worried look on their face because of the deep wrinkles in their forehead. The tail is high up, but curls up and slightly over to the side of its back. The ears are erect, straight and open in the front similar to a German shepherd, although some say they resemble a small deer. The small almond shaped eyes make the Basenji appear to be squinting. The long legs of the Basenji contribute to its running gait being similar to what you would see on a horse. They have a type of gallop, when running at full speed, where their feet just barely touch the ground. They enjoy doing what they were born for: hunting and running. It is this quality that makes them want to chase every small animal they see. If he gets off the leash, he will go and, in most cases, will be totally oblivious to your calling him. The Basenji only comes in heat once a year, in the fall. The one trait that the Basenji is most known for is the fact it does not bark. This is not to say that it is a mute dog by any means. Depending on what their mood is at the time, they will whine, squeal or howl and give one single 'woof' from time to time. When the Basenji is upset about something like being locked up, they will let out a scream that is similar to a woman or baby screaming or a rooster crowing. They do make a sound called a yodel or baroo that is attributed only to their breed. Overall, when they want to be heard, they know what to do and they are heard. Basenjis can be hard to train because they can be very stubborn. Positive reinforcement is highly recommended when training them and tricking them into thinking it's their idea. They want to please their masters, but are still headstrong. They are very destructive dogs and will chew on things much more so than most dogs. In fact, there is very little that they won't eat. They need to be strictly confined or crated when you're not around because if there is a way to escape and run wild, they will. Some dog trainers feel that if you are a person that wants a very well-trained dog, the Basenji dog is not for you because of their stubborn independent streak.

Coat Description

The coat of the Basenji is short and silky with pliant skin. There are four standard colors for Basenjis--chestnut red, black, black and tan, and brindle. White feet, tail tip and chest is on all the colors. There have been some variations like the "trindle", which is a tricolor with brindle points, liver, sabled reds, creams and blue and whites. Most of the variations have been bred out through the years except for the trindle variation. Most of the breeding is a matter of owner preference.
History

The Basenji is a very old breed of dog with his origin stemming way back to ancient times. It has been said that they originated in Africa and considered an "African import" at some point. The first signs of this dog (or dogs thought to be Basenji because of the similarities) were found and seen in Egyptian tombs and wall hangings over 5,000 years ago. In the late 1800s, they were prized as hunting dogs in the Congo because of their great speed and intelligence as they would track their wild game right into nets while waiting for the master to come. Attempts to bring the Basenji dog to England in the early 1900s failed when most of them died from diseases. They were brought into Europe in 1934 under the name of Congo Dog. Breeders experimented, refined the breed and transferred it all over the world with the help and expertise of breeder Henry Trefflich. The American Kennel Club recognized the breed of Basenji in 1943, and in 1990, several imports of the breed were added in the books.
Temperament

There are many terms to describe the Basenji dog and some may seem contradictory, but they so vary in temperament and have so many different moods. Although many temperaments come from the training, there are many that are characteristic of the breed. They are very alert, energetic and affectionate, yet they are also demanding. The Basenji needs to be handled and have human contact from a very young age to truly make a good pet. They do not like small animals and will chase them until they catch and kill them, if given the chance. Another characteristic of the Basenji is their inability to get along with other dogs, especially if they are a dominant dog. This is especially true when it is a dog of the same sex. Many owners of Basenji have said that they get along fine with other Basenji dogs, just not dogs of another breed. They are very intelligent dogs and bond very strongly with their family members. Basenjis are somewhat shy and aloof with strangers and may actually "circle" them like prey if left unsupervised. When they circle something, this usually means that they consider it a threat to them or their home. They are territorial and very protective of their home and any area they spend a lot of time in and consider as "theirs". They are very playful dogs that need much play time and exercise to release some of their energy that they seem to consistently possess. If they don't get the exercise they need, they will exert it in negative ways such as chewing and destroying whatever they find. The temperament and

disposition of the Basenji is patient and eager to please, but respond much better with older children than young. In addition to all their energy, they love to run and climb so you will need a very high fence (at least 6 feet) if you have hopes of keeping them in. They are very loving dogs with their owners, but need to have constant attention and human contact. Many owners say that their Basenji is like a 2-year-old child with their demands for attention and if they don't get it, they make you regret it by being destructive.
Health Problems

There are a few diseases and disorders that the Basenji is prone to getting.
Fanconi Syndrome is an inheritable kidney disorder that usually will Show its symptoms after the age of four. A urine test can be given to the dog to test for the disorder.

Genetic Hemolytic Anemia, a blood disorder, is common with Basenji dogs that are carriers. hip dysplasia is a disorder that can cause loss of mobility, lameness and painful arthritis in the joints. It can be mild to severe where it will cripple the dog. All dogs can and should be tested for canine hip dysplasia if you plan to breed them as this is a hereditary disease. Malabsorption is an autoimmune intestinal disease that if left untreated can lead to death. Dogs with this disease can improve with a special Diet.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy, which is a degeneration of the retina of the eye, may lead to total blindness and other less serious eye problems. Grooming

Basenjis, unlike many other dogs require very little grooming other than the normal brushing. They will love being brushed, however, as they are always craving attention from their owner. They wash and clean themselves like cats, always licking themselves clean. Unbelievable to some, the Basenji does not smell so they require little bathing as well. Many owners say they only bathe their Basenji every couple of months if needed. If your dog spends a lot of the daytime running around getting dirty and sleeps indoors at night, you may wish to bathe him more often. They are the ideal dog for someone with allergies. Basenji dogs do have sensitive skin, so be cautious about using strong flea shampoos. Always do a sensitivity test on their belly before fully shampooing their body. Speaking with your vet or pet supply store may help you in choosing the best shampoo and grooming supplies to keep your dog and you happy. Some owners have said their Basenji does not shed, while others say they do, but a minimal amount that can be taken care of with a simple vacuum job. If you choose to show your dog, you

may need little or no trimming at all, although some choose to trim the tail a bit. Other owners trim the whiskers. Nail trimming can also be kept to a minimum. If you are uncertain, you can check with other Basenji owners or your vet can advise you. You will find that your Basenji requires less grooming than most other dogs. You will find that with all the needs and demands your Basenji has, heavy grooming is not one of them.
Exercise

Basenji dogs need as much exercise as you can possibly give them. They are highly energetic dogs that need more than just an occasional walk around the block. It's great if you have a large fenced in back yard where they can run all they want; however, this will not replace exercise with you. Remember, your Basenji thinks of himself as a member of your family and wants to play with you. On the subject of fences, a chain link fence is not recommended because they can climb it very easily. You may find that your Basenji needs more exercise than you can give him. Enrolling him in some training courses will help him get much of the exercise he needs, especially agility training and lure courses. In lure coursing, the dog chases an artificial lure across a field in specific patterns. Many dogs have to be trained to do this, but some dogs instinctively know what to do as it is in their blood to track and hunt. Lure coursing is excellent exercise and stimulation for you Basenji. Many Basenji owners have their dog participate in competitions of lure coursing, and claim their dog loves it due to their excellent drive, energy and competitive spirit. The dog can also earn titles in competitions sponsored by some organizations such as the American Kennel Club. Basenjis do not like to be around or in water and will avoid it at all costs. You will have to almost trick them to get them in water. Although, if they are in pursuit of something, they have been know to run in the rain.
Training

Because of their intelligence and high energy level, there are different types of training that can be given to the Basenji dog. Due to their great prey drive, which is what they were bred for, most Basenji excel in lure coursing. This consists of a white plastic lure (or bunny) attached to a continuous loop run by a machine that has an operator, which controls the speed. The competition is in a field and must be at least 600 yards long with four turns or more. The dogs get points based on overall ability, speed, and skill in following the lure, agility and endurance. Basenji dogs are not necessarily bred for lure coursing and can be tested at a young age to see if they will be successful at the sport. Conformation is something else that the Basenji dog can compete for in the ring. Because their coat is short and they require so little upkeep, half the battle is won. Training your dog to walk and look elegant like his breed represents will be a great experience. A Basenji breeder may be able to give you some advice on this. Obedience is not something that the Basenji is known for, but with hard work and dedication,

your dog can be trained. As with all dogs, even the Basenji, they strive to please their owners. They have an abundance of energy that needs to be put in a positive direction and positive reinforcement training works best with them as well as firmness. Many Basenji owners say that you need to make the dog think that what you want him to do is his idea and he will be more willing to do this. Dogs need affection, enthusiasm and exercise. If they get all these, the training will be much easier. If you feel you can't do this on your own, talk with a professional trainer that can either give you advice or enroll him in a training course. Training of any kind, especially obedience, should start at a young age.

Basset Hounds
Life Span:8 to 12 years Litter Size:8 puppies Group:The Bassett Hound is listed in the hound division of dog types. Known as a scent hound, its original function was to trail rabbits and hare, while today it is known for the same, in addition to field trials and the Basset field trials. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC Color:The colors of the Basset Hound are of any recognized hound color. This can be lemon (white and light buff), red and white, mahogany, black and white, tri-color (white body with brown head and on body with blanket, and some black spotted highlights with or without a blanket), or the Bleu De Gascogne. Hair Length:Short Size:Medium, Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:12-15 inches Male Weight:30 to 65 pounds Female Height:12-15 inches Female Weight:20 to 55 pounds Living Area:The Basset Hound can live either indoors or outdoors in today's world, but in the early 1500s and thereafter, it was bred as an outside dog due to its hunting responsibilities. This is not a small apartment-sized dog, but requires larger exercise areas or yards, or exercising outside of the home through walking or hunting.

Description

The Basset Hounds are the only living descendents of our earliest scenthounds, and as a smooth, short-coated dog, the Basset Hound has a long, heavy body with wrinkly-cute, short stout legs. This Basset form has been developed over centuries for its owners to follow the dog on foot with the dog leading, as they hunt through dense cover for badgers, rabbits, and hares, allowing the hound to hunt with its famous sense of smell. The head of the Basset is its strong point with a rounded skull and loose-fitting skin, falling in folds around the head. Long soft ears should meet beyond the top of the nose when extended, having the ability to fold, and not look "flat." But it is the eyes, sad brown eyes, which reach the hearts of people, as they are kind with softness and no harsh appearance. Round hindquarters and large paws add to the look of gentleness and make one wonder how such a beautifully powered dog could ever hunt live game, looking like it should be on the lap of its owner as a fluffy lap pet whose only mission in life is to be petted. Physical characteristics of the breed allow the thick coat to protect the dog from being torn or hurt from bramble bushes during the hunt, or getting caught up in them. The long ears are said by old-timers to stir up the ground scent for the dog to follow, while the wrinkles in the loose skin around the face trap the scent that has risen in the air. All of these features, working together as one, make the Bassett Hound an excellent tracker in its slow and easy meandering way, while it sniffs scent and then trails the find. Stubborn and slow moving, once this dog gets on a trail, it refuses to give up until the trail has disappeared with or without its owners or trainers. Compared to other breeds, the Basset Hound has a much heavier bone that is in total proportion to its physical size. While it is considered a short dog, once a person tries picking them up they will never make the mistake of calling the Basset a small dog simply because they are low to the ground. This heavy weight is what works with the slow-moving attribute of the dog, as it moves forward with sheer determination, focusing on the scent with its nose to the ground. But once the scent is found, their loud beautiful baying makes the heart pound with excitement and nostalgia for this ancient breed on the hunt once again. Any game can be fun with the Basset as they enjoy family and owners, and will play games if they think it will benefit them like a treat or two. If the kennel is outside where they do will sleep is warm and protected, sleeping outside will do well, but it is important to know that this breed is a kind and loving breed and bonds well with family. The Basset would actually prefer to sleep on the bottom of the bed, or right next to its owner with the pillow tucked under its head.
Coat Description

The coat of a Basset Hound is short, heavy, and smooth, with low grooming requirements. A brushing once or twice a week removes any dead dander hair, while keeping the skin circulated. But during heavy shedding cycles, the hair will need to be removed by brushing and bathing.

This color refers to a smooth, blue mottled and black one, with tan markings on the hound. The Bleu De Gascogne is not recognized by the American Kennel Club according to their breed standard of the Basset Hound. But it is recognized under the FCI registry under the hound division, and is also recognized under the Rare Breed Network. The main registry for this colored Basset Hound is the Bleu De Gascogne Club of America, for those who enjoy this colored Basset and would like to show it.
History

History says very little about the Bassett Hound until around the 1500s, and it was during this time that it was referred to as a badger hunter. What documentation we have during those early days shows they originated from the old St. Hubert hounds that were the hunting hounds of the abbey of St. Hubert in the Ardennes, the capital of the forests of the High Ardennes and hunting. These early Ardennes hounds were brought to Britain in 1066 during the Norman invasion, used in packs to hunt stag. The English gave the name Bloodhound to this imported dog, completely transforming this Belgian hunting dog into one the highest quality tracking dog with the most exceptional olfactory organ of any breed known to man. Later on, this breed was mixed with the later-developed Basset Hound to increase the Basset's size. Once the Basset began to gain popularity, they gathered many admirers from King Edwards VII to Shakespeare. But before then, from the earliest time of its origin until the French Revolution, information about the breed is very sketchy and pretty much undocumented. Dogs were used prior to the war that were shorter-legged and slower paced, but because of the war the dogs became extinct or dispersed. After the Revolution, the common man took up hunting with guns, using dogs they could follow while on foot. They needed a dog they could keep up with who also had a great scenting ability, and heavy bone for long endurance. With a clearer picture of history and more documentation, it was recognized that the Basset Hound was the dog to answer this need. Due to the dog's slow speed when chasing the prey, it was discovered that the prey was easier to shoot at as it provided an easier target for the hunters on foot. During these early times, four different versions of the Basset Hound were developed, with the Basset Artesien Normand looking like the present-day Basset. In the 1800s and in the 1930s, the Bassets were crossed with Bloodhounds to increase the size of the dog. From then on, the Basset Hound gradually gained in popularity, with its gentle personality and droll expression winning everyone over.
Temperament

With such a sweet gentle look on its face, it is no wonder that the Basset Hound's personality is sweet and gentle, with a peaceful demeanor that belies the inner strength of this four-legged hunter and tracker. Because their personality is mild, this breed has become one of the most popular family dogs, known for their extreme tolerance. A naturally well-behaved dog, they are the most easygoing of breeds with a good-natured personality. And with such a mild disposition,

many individuals take this as timidness in the breed. But its mild personality causes the breed to be very affectionate with its owner, along with children in the family. Fitting well into any family, it is cordial with family pets, children and other dogs. The only warning regarding families will be the Basset's back as if children attempt to ride on the dog's back, it will do great damage due to the length of the body. A calm dog, they love food and can easily be trained to do tricks for it. They respond well to gentle and patient training with lots of love and kindness, with positive reinforcement as they learn their commands. Unfortunately, they are known to combine stubbornness with their training program, so choosing a training program needs to be an excellent one. Once the Basset Hound acquires the scent coming from their age-old instincts as a cat crosses the street or field, or a rabbit takes off across the nearby field it will be very hard to keep the attention of this eager student unless he has been taught with high obedience training. It is important to remember that Bassets were once a pack animal, and part of a pack. Not an aggressive breed because of this pack background, they are a loving and cuddly breed with many owners referring to the Bassett thinking it is a lap dog or refusing to leave the side of their owner. In several breeds the females and males will fight against one another, which is due to the dog's personality and territorial rights. The Basset Hounds are not like that as they get along well with other dogs and both sexes of their own.
Health Problems

A major concern with the Bassett Hound is obesity; not only with the weight issue but also because of the strain it puts on the intervertebral disks, forming a condition. Suggestions for tests that need to be done are the eyes and the blood, with an occasional checking for patellar luxation. Other major concerns for the breed are:
foreleg lameness OCD Entropion ectropion otitis externa

intervertebral disc disease Glaucoma von Willebrands

 Gastric torsion foot cysts

infection as minor concerns. Bloat can also occur due to their love of food, with possible lameness and paralysis due to the extra weight on their legs and spine. Grooming

The coat of a Basset Hound is short, heavy, and smooth, with low grooming requirements. A brushing once or twice a week removes any dead dander hair, while keeping the skin circulated. But during heavy shedding cycles, the hair will need to be removed by brushing and bathing. The hair around and inside the ears needs to be carefully wiped and cleaned, as when the dog is hunting, drinking, or eating, debris or food matter has a tendency to become entangled in this area, causing fungus or bacteria to grow if the area is left unattended for lengthy periods of time.
Exercise

This is a breed that requires exercise on a regular basis due to their ability to gain weight and be on the rather "lazy side." In fact, it is a mandatory requirement, other than not being able to let the dog off the leash under any circumstances while they are being walked as the Basset will never respond to you while on a dead run after a scent or chasing something that runs. Walking them around the block just is not enough. Lack of exercise causes obesity, stress on the joints and bones, with many health problems developing. Regular exercise regimes are important to keep the health of the Bassett Hound both physically and mentally. This is a very important area to research if the Basset Hound is a breed being considered.
Training

Even though the Basset Hound is one of the most popular fun-loving breeds for families and affection, they are the worst ones chosen for intelligent and fast training not intelligent, mind you but fast. And a person will never get quick and fast results from a Basset, because they do not want to learn unless they have a good reason to. The trainer or owner needs to show them "why" they need to learn, and make it fun for them to get their attention. And for anyone who has attempted to train a Basset, they will recognize this fact instantly. Before beginning a strong training schedule with the Basset, respecting the breed may be the first big step to conquer. Once this is done, the wisdom of training this reluctant breed will be made much easier, along with the understanding of how they think and why they do what they do coming into play. Once the intelligence of the Basset is brought forth, along with recognizing that different rules

may need to apply to the particular training style, both the trainer and the "trainee" will be ready to go eagerly and happily. But it will be a challenge and hard work, even with these preliminary steps already accomplished. This breed is stubborn and mule-headed once it is on the hunt. Those who know the breed know from experience that no matter how much the dog loves them, once on a hunt the dog will take off and never turn around to see if they are following. LOTS of patience while maintaining a steady and loving manner will work wonders with any breed, but this breed requires it along with persistence and sheer determination. The Basset is naturally a pack animal, along with being a "team member" as long as it is fun. Fun desiring, along with being lazy enough to want do nothing but sleep, is where the challenge will come in. The effort to get this breed off the floor or couch, while recognizing it will be fun to do what you want not what the dog wants. To do that, become the alpha dog, the leader, the boss, the one who does the commanding and will not quit. Once this is recognized, the training will begin in a successful direction to develop one of the most wonderful companions known on earth, and one of the most trusting breeds alive.

Beagles
Life Span:12 - 15 years - although some have lived to be 18 years old. Litter Size:2 -14 puppies with the average being 7 puppies Group:Hound, AKC Hound

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Tri-color, Black/Tan, Orange/White, Lemon/White, Red/White. Beagles appear in a range of colors including two-color and three-color variietes, very light tan, reddish, and orangish brown. They often have different colored spots on their coats known as "ticking". Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:14 - 16 inches (36 - 41 cm.) Male Weight:22 -25 pounds (10 - 11 kg.) Female Height:13 - 15 inches (33 - 38 cm.) Female Weight:20 - 23 pounds (9 - 10 kg.)

Living Area:Beagles are small enough to fare well in an apartment but enjoy their time in the outdoors as well. They are very active and energetic and may feel cooped up in a small home or apartment. A small yard to play in is ideal for these dogs since they need fresh air and exercise on a daily basis. These dogs do not do well being chained up all day, and will enjoy a variety of activities with their owners and guardians.
Description

The Beagle is an easy-to-care for dog, as it is a small and sturdy hound that is squarely built and a hardy breed. The Beagle can come in a variety of colors including black and tan, orange and white, and most commonly a tri-color. The Beagle's coat is hard and of medium length; hair grows steadily and rarely needs trimming. It looks very similar to a smaller version of an English Foxhound with a broad skull and slightly rounded head. The muzzle is typically straight and square, and the feet are round and strong. The Beagle has a black nose and full nostrils that are ideal for scenting. Long wide ears are a pendant shape, and the characteristic pleading expression has made it famous. Brown and hazel eyes give it a love struck and innocent look, and the tail is carried high and tight; it is rarely curled over the back. The Beagle has a characteristic bark that is almost like a distinct howl. While training can limit this obtrusive noise, the beagle is often on the hunt and uses this as part of its routine.
Coat Description

The Beagle's coat is short and easy to take care of. It is sleek and smooth and offers the dog plenty of protection year round. The coat is close to the body and of medium length. These hounds can come in tri-color, black and tan, orange and white, and other color combinations. They are generally not bred in solid colors.
History

The Beagle is originally from England and is famously one of the most popular scent hounds. It has a sweet and merry disposition with a high level of energy. It is willing to share affection and attention with owners, family members, and other dogs in its pack. It has originated as a cross between the Harrier and other hounds of old England, and has been used in pack hunts and in pairs. It was originally used for hunting hare, pheasant, and quail. These dogs also make excellent narcotics detection dogs and are wonderful fine family companions. Since these dogs are uniform in size and quite small, they may also be used for a variety of medical experiments. Possible ancestors for this dog include the Talbot hound from Great Britain which is now instinct. In addition, the black and tan Irish Kerry Beagles are another possible link for these beagles, as well as the Bloodhound. The Kerry Beagles may explain the strong scenting ability of Beagles that we know of them today. The word "Beagle" is derived from the French word "beguele" meaning "open throat". The French or Welsh term "beag" means small, and other variations have been noted.

Most Beagles have been used for hunting purposes, and were often used in hare hunting in old England. Beagles were often raised in packs of over 100 hare hounds to help in the battlefield of the Hundred Years' War. "Beagling" is considered a sport that is similar to foxhunting in scope, and has been banned in England; in the United States and Canada, Beagles are commonly used for hunting hare and deer. Beagles were not always used as a Beagle pack, and the hunter beagle is usually proficient with chasing and stalking. In modern day, these dogs are commonly used as sniffer dogs for recreational drug use detection. They are the breed of choice by the United States Department of Agriculture and are often involved with detecting food items in luggage. They were originally chosen for these types of assignments because of their small size and easy maintenance. They are also not as intimidating for most people around dogs, and easily help to adjust and socialize within their domain. Because of their passive nature, they are commonly used in animal testing.
Temperament

Highly intelligent and openly happy, the Beagle is one of the most expressive breeds. It is gentle, lively, curious, and sweet and manages to attach itself to anyone giving it attention and affection. This highly sociable dog is excellent for families with young children and will bond immediately with children and adults of all ages. They are also generally good with other dogs as well, but cannot be trusted with non-canine pets. Cats and other small animals can become quick prey for Beagles and they may not socialize well with these animals. Other household animals should be kept out of the Beagle's way as they can become very watchful, suspicious, and anti-social with other animals. Beagles are determined and lively, and may require extra training to make sure their behavior is appropriate. Since they are highly sociable, they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. They will be more likely to become destructive and even neurotic if they are left alone for too long, and it may be helpful to adopt another Beagle just to keep it company. The Beagle's signature cry has helped with hunting and other outdoors sports for years. Hunting horsemen in particular attune to the loud baying cry of the Beagle but this can easily be offensive to neighbors and family members. Beagles must be trained to control their bark, and this may be especially difficult for younger generations of the breed. These dogs have an instinctive nature to follow their noises and will travel great lengths if they are left off their leash. It is best to keep them in a fenced in area with plenty of security and a watchful eye. Beagles are intelligent, lively, and ready to learn. They adapt quickly to their environments and will pick up behaviors readily. They need to be socialized at an early age, and cannot be left alone for lengthy periods of time. They fare well in packs or with other dogs of the same breed, and thoroughly enjoy the company of family, owners, and friends. Beagles have very good tempers and a natural, gentle disposition. They tend to get aggressive during their first heat cycle but also adapt relatively quickly.

Health Problems

The Beagle is a hardy breed and is generally healthy; although they may go through phases of unhealthy conditions, they adapt to their environments and conditions fairly quickly and tend to cure well. A few special medical conditions to be aware of include:
hip dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness.

Achondroplasia : a degenerative disease where the front legs can become warped Back problems

Eye Anomaly: can cause blindness, but is not a progressive disease Epilepsy: a neurological seizure disorder. There is no test for this.

Heart disease: some lines can be prone to this condition Grooming

The Beagle's smooth and short-haired coat is easy to maintain and requires very little grooming. Brushing the dog with a firm bristle brush on a regular basis is all that is necessary to maintain their glossy coat. They will need to be bathed with mild soap on occasion, and a dry shampoo is all it takes to keep them healthy and clean. It is important to take the Beagle to the Vet on a regular basis to check for signs of infection. Keeping nails trim and neat is important since these dogs are naturally active and require freedom of movement. The Beagle is an average shedder and shedding takes place a few times each year to reveal a fresh coat. It is best to comb or brush the coat at least once per week, and shedding will take care of any remaining hairs and dirt. These dogs are generally low maintenance and can take care of themselves for the most part. Checking for ticks and other insects is especially important after the dog has been out in the wild for an extended period of time.
Exercise

Beagles have a high amount of energy and great stamina; they need a lot of exercise to keep up their energy levels and a small fenced yard is most suitable for them. A daily walk is essential, and this can take place in the early morning or late evening. Running with the dog is a great way to stay active and Beagles enjoy exploring new territory and parks. It is best to keep these dogs on a leash so that you do not run the risk of losing them in search of wild game. The Beagle

requires plenty of attention and an ongoing exercise regimen to stay healthy. Beagles have plenty of energy indoors too, and require some stimulation since they are naturally curious. They may turn to destructive behavior if left unattended, and they will gladly play fetch or play with other toys with family members. The Beagle enjoys running, walking, and swimming on occasion. They still revel in the thrill of the hunt, and will disappear for hours if left unattended. Beagles can be trained to do tricks and perform various skills, but this may take some time due to their transient and energetic nature. They adore attention, so positive reinforcement can prove to be very helpful for the young pups.
Training

Beagles are a smart breed of dog and can be trained very quickly. Many are trained to hunt rabbits at a very young age, and an intensive training session and progressive steps for specific goals will work well for them. Beagles are considered to be the oldest breed of gundogs in the world, but they are very well suited for rabbit and hare hunting. Many breeders focus on tracking and hunting rabbits with their Beagles, and they do have many qualities that can make them competitive and even showdogs in some stages. Beagle pups can be trained as early as 6 - 8 weeks of age and will easily adapt to different forms of training. They have a very short attention span so it is important to keep these sessions to approximately 10 - 15 minutes, and not more than two or three times per day. Constant positive feedback and generous affection are usually all that are needed for the puppy to concede and follow your guidelines. These dogs can become tame and docile very easily when you teach them how to appreciate your respect and guidance. These dogs are not difficult for the average person to train, but the process does require patience and persistence with frequent training sessions. Socialization is incredibly important for these energetic dogs, and they can adjust fairly quickly in social situations and with other dogs. Young puppies can be led to school on a leash and trained on a grooming table. They are likely to pick up new tricks very quickly and it is important that these dogs learn positive behaviors as soon as possible. Beagles enjoy games and activities and will respond well to reinforcement when they are alert and engaged in activities. Teaching training in logical steps will help make the necessary transitions and can clear the way for consistency which is especially important for puppies. Running the dogs on a daily basis will help them to learn as much as possible for hunting and racing purposes. The dogs are competitive but fun to work with; they respond well to positive motivation and reinforcement. Consistent feedback and attention will make it easier to train the Beagle, even if it is not of a very young age.

Bearded Collies

Life Span:12 - 14 years - although some have lived a lot longer Litter Size:4 - 12 average 7 puppies Group:Herding, Pastoral Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black, Brown, Blue, or Fawn Hair Length:Long Size:Medium Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:20 - 22 inches ( 51 - 56 cms) at the shoulder Male Weight:35 - 55 pounds (16 - 25 kg) depending on height Female Height:20 - 22 inches ( 51 - 56 cms) at the shoulder Female Weight:35 - 55 pounds (16 - 25 kg) depending on height Living Area:Not recommended for apartment life, they are best on a farm or acreage where they have the room to run and exercise with their handlers. They are highly active even indoors where they prefer to be with their humans.
Description

The Beardie is medium-sized and very agile. A herding dog of great stamina and high intelligence, the Beardie is noted for its shaggy coat and never flagging wagging tail. Related to the Old English Sheepdog the Beardie has a broad head, short muzzle and a shaggy coat all over - including under the chin - which is where the nickname Beardie came from. Hardy and active, but not massive, the Beardie is considered to be a robust and generally healthy dog. They have a dense, weatherproof outer coat with a thick, soft undercoat. Its head and teeth are large. The eyes are wide set and high on the head, and match color with its coat. The ears are close to the head with a long tail carried low unless the dog is excited. Their coat color changes several times over their lifetime. Puppies are usually born black, brown, fawn or blue. The coat fades to light gray or cream. As the dogs mature, they darken to their adult coat in any of the four colors, black (from black to slate), brown (from dark brown or milk chocolate to gingery red), blue (from steel blue to silver), or fawn (cinnamon to champagne). The

final coat color is somewhere between the puppy coat and the yearling coat. They will also likely have white markings of some sort. The Beardie has unusual eye colors. In general, the eye color usually matches the coat color - for instance - Black and Brown Beardies have brown eyes, the Blues have smoky or grayish-blue eyes and the Fawns sport a lighter brown eye which sometimes has a hint of hazel in it. Beardies can and do sleep outdoors and also make excellent farm dogs. They are good to go in windy, rugged or wet areas since the dogs are out in all weather conditions to herd. It does not like to be confined and should have a place to run off of its lead. The Beardie loves to be outdoors, but also wants his place inside with his family (pack). These dogs are notorious escape artists so it's best to make sure they are happy and well exercised.
Coat Description

The Beardi''s shaggy coat is flat, harsh and shaggy, and can be slightly wavy but not curly, with the undercoat soft, furry and close. The outer coat is flat, harsh, strong and shaggy and falls naturally to either side. The weatherproof outer coat is long and dense, providing protection against all weather conditions.
History

The Bearded Collie (first introduced into Scotland in 1514) was developed in Scotland as a herding dog with ancestors including herding dogs from the European continent - the Poland Lowland Sheepdog (Polski Owzcarek Nizinny) and the Komondor, blended with sheep herding dogs in the British Isles. The Bearded Collie is in all likelihood also related to the bobtail (Old English Sheepdog). It was developed as an independent worker, capable of thinking on its own and making decisions about the safety of their flocks without depending on the shepherd who might be miles away. Beardies have never brought home a wrong sheep despite the practice of flocks intermingling while out to pasture. The Beardie is still used as a shepherd's helpmate in Scotland, and in the U.S. The breed almost disappeared in the early part of the twentieth century, but was rescued through mating a pair in 1944. Even today, it isn't very widespread and it's still fairly rare in the United States. The first US litter of Beardies was whelped in 1967. G.O. Willison brought the breed to recognition by The Kennel Club of Great Britain in 1959. The breed was officially recognized by the AKC in 1977.
Temperament

This dog is without a doubt one of the largest clowns in the canine world. Many seem to think he has pogo sticks in his legs, or at the very least was crossed with a grass hopper. His bounce and charm are addicting and he is always joyous and affectionate. Playful and a tad cheeky, his tail is

always wagging. He has a lovely sense of humour and that combined with his high energy levels make for some pretty funny episodes. Males tend to be more outgoing and bold, while females are calmer and more submissive. He's really terrific with kids and thrives, but NEEDS to be with people. He needs to be a part of the family unit and would wither without human contact. If he is left alone without human contact and has nothing to do, he will get into trouble. He certainly can be trained to do just about anything, but not to be a watch dog. They are noisy barkers yes, but not watch dogs. Their forte is herding animals - and their people (with a grin!) You don't need a doorbell when living with a Beardie. Beardies jump and can even clear very high fences, if they don't have something to do that appeals to them. They'll also jump up to greet you, kiss your nose and look you straight in the eye. Great trick, but it can scare little ones and others who aren't used to such enthusiastic greetings. This breed does well at intermingling with other animals particularly if they were raised with them. Some can be bossy about possessions and hoard all the toys in their den, and being herding dogs, they will chase things if tempted. The Beardie may have gotten one of its other names - bouncing beardie - because when working in thick undergrowth on a hill, they bounce to catch sight of their sheep. It's also speculated this name came from the way they face a stubborn ewe, barking and bouncing on the forelegs. The bearded moves stock using body, bark and bounce. Very few beardies show "eye" when working, most are usually upright.
Health Problems

Generally a quite hardy breed, the Beardie does have some special medical conditions to be aware of:
Cataracts - any opacity or loss of transparency of the lens of the eye.

Corneal dystrophy - an inherited abnormality that affects one or more layers of the cornea.

Pemphigus foliaceus - an abnormal immune response to normal components of the skin, resulting in separation of cells. This leads to blisters, pustules, and crusting erosions in the skin.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy - manifests as night blindness, slowly progresses to total blindness.

 Black hair follicular dysplasia - a rare inherited disorder seen in mixed-breed and purebred dogs. Hair loss occurs at a very early age in black areas on black, or black and white dogs. von Willebrands disease - a common, usually mild, inherited bleeding disorder in people and in dogs. It is caused by a lack of von Willebrand factor (vWF), which plays an essential role in the blood clotting process. Food sensitivities and Allergies also seem to be a problem for this breed. So do not give it scraps of food from the table. They are also extremely sound sensitive to things like thunder or large trucks. Have your Beardie Vet checked for Hypothyroidism. Grooming

Beardies need lots of grooming. And if you take one look at their coats, you will know why. Either you will have to learn to groom like a pro, have them groomed by a pro or clip all that shaggy hair. Grooming can take an average of one and a half to two hours or more per week, and you will need the following grooming supplies: good brushes, combs, a grooming table, nail clippers, etc. If you don't maintain the grooming you will end up with a matted mess that can lead to skin and other health problems. Long hair means things you'd rather not have in the house will be brought in with your Beardie. Leaves, sticks, mud and other things your dog has either rolled in or rubbed up against, not to mention any crawlies that took a fancy to being buried in your dog's coat. Groomed properly, they shed minimally. Most of the dead hair will is removed when you comb and brush them out. The absolute worst time for shedding is when they lose the puppy coat (between 9 - 18 months). This stage lasts about three months and your dog loses hair from top to bottom or from front to rear. Introduce your Beardie to hair care really early. Puppies can be groomed in one minute flat - the general idea being to get them used to being still for longer periods of time. This is essential as when they are adults they need to be able to accept at least an hour or brushing and combing. And if you show, the time spent is even longer. Groom thoroughly at least once a week, more often during your puppy's shed. Lay your dog on its side then mist with some anti-tangle spray. What follows next is something called line brushing. Brush hair up with a bristle or pin brush, then brush hair back down a few inches at a time. If you encounter mats, work them out with the spray and your fingers, or use a mat rake. When you are done, you should be able to get a comb through his coat quite easily. Make certain to check for ticks during tick season and pay attention to the length of the toenails.

If they run on hard surfaces a lot, they will wear their own nails down. But if not, then you will either have to clip them yourself, or have a professional do it for you.
Exercise

Beardies need LOTS of exercise! And this does not mean just running around the backyard. They need vigorous exercise every day, and at a minimum should get an hour of rigorous (romping) exercise at least three or four times a week. Beardies have no end to their energy both indoors and out. If left to their own devices, they will make up their own games to play and chew on whatever they can find - if not jump fence and take off. Outside they will entertain themselves by digging holes. The goal is to stimulate both the mind and the body of your Beardie - engage his limitless curiosity and high intelligence. An ideal workout for your Beardie if you don't run sheep or other livestock, would be a rousing game of fetch with balls or a Frisbee, throw in some swimming, running along side you while you bike and hiking. Whatever it is you choose to do physically, just include your Beardie. They're happiest when doing things with you and are up for anything from wrestling to swimming. The best exercise regimen for your Beardie would be at least two 45 minute walks a day, no matter what the weather may be. While you may not be too happy with the weather, your dog doesn't mind in the least. This may vary depending on your dog, as each one does have its own personality. While on your walks try to have about 30 minutes full tilt running off leash and include a game of fetch or even a tug of war. You need to also include at least 20 minutes of obedience training, trick training or other activities that keep your dog's mind sharp. If he's mentally stimulated he's happy. If he's happy, he's well-behaved. If you don't think what you are doing is enough for your dog, don't increase the physical part of your routine, increase the educational portion instead. That would mean more obedience training, tricks - things to keep his mind busy - to stretch his mental limits. Working his mind will make him more tired than working his body - remember, their stamina is phenomenal. And they ALWAYS have energy to spare, even if you don't!
Training

The Bearded Collie is very intelligent and quick to learn. However, he is an independent thinker and can be very stubborn. Obedience training must be fun, consistent and fair. It should also start at a young age and continue into adulthood. These dogs can be master manipulators, and are very adept at getting their own way. The hardest thing about owning a Beardie is not teaching him the wrong things. If you don't stay mentally one step ahead of your Beardie, your Beardie will do a very good job of training you.

Your youngster is like a 2 year old child pushing his luck to see what he can get away with. If you do let him get his way, you will eventually end up with about 50 lbs of dog who 'won't walk on a leash' or 'doesn't like to be brushed' because when he was younger he found out that throwing a tantrum got him out of doing anything you wanted him to do. This behavior often can reappear around the teenage stage when they start feeling full of themselves and test to see who's in charge. This is about the time when your pup also becomes deaf to your commands. Not literally, but he's chosen to ignore you to see how far he can push you. Had the experience where you've said "come" over and over, and still nothing? Well, he's just had a successful training session. He's trained you to keep on asking for something while he sits there. He'll respond eventually when you lose your cool and change your tone and your attitude. If you want your dog to obey on the first command, don't repeat a command while your dog ignores you. Give the command once, and if he doesn't respond, go to him, take him by the collar. Repeat the command and then physically help him obey. If you never repeat a command without using the collar, he will realize he might as well obey the first time.

Beaucerons
Life Span:10 to 12 years Litter Size:6-7 puppies Group:Herding Dogs Recognized By:UKC, NKC, ACR Color:Black/Tan is the only acceptable color. Various alternate colorings, including Gray and Gray/Black, are not considered viable under the Beauceron breed standard. Hair Length:Short Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24 -27.5 in (32-70 cm), Male Weight:100 lbs Female Height:24- 26.75 in (61-67 cm) Female Weight:80-90 lbs.

Living Area:Beaucerons have been herders for centuries, and it would be best to let them stay that way. Urban areas aren't suitable to most Beaucerons, and any suburban Beaucerons should have access to wide open areas as often as is possible. Rural areas--or anywhere with a great deal of open space for dogs to run freely--are the ideal environment for this breed.
Description

The Beauceron is one of France's most ancient and most beloved dogs, with a history dating back as far as the sixteenth century and a crucial role in some of the greatest conflicts of the twentieth century--as well as a peaceful yet no less crucial role in peaceful matters of everyday rural life. Beaucerons bear a passing resemblance to German Shepherds--part of their value as watchdogs depends on exactly this fairly large, threatening appearance. Considering the strong resemblance, it's surprising that the Beauceron is one of the major purebred dogs of the world--the breed developed exclusively in France, with no known cross-breeding occuring between the Beauceron and dogs of foreign nations. It's this strange quality of purity that gives the breed its special place in the French heart--not to mention the Beauceron's other qualities of loyalty, nobility, friendliness, and undeniable energy for herding and working. The Beauceron is invariably black-and-tan, with some black-and-gray dogs in existence that aren't considered an official part of the breed. They are very muscular, with a perfect scissor bite and an imposing profile whether their ears are cropped or uncropped. Their hind legs are highly distinctive, with a double dewclaw on each foot--leaving them with six toes, some of which resemble "thumbs". Far from being a defect, this is one of the hallmarks of the Beauceron, and dogs with anything less than the standard six rear toes are not considered to be true Beaucerons. Whatever their general living environment is, however, it's best to let Beaucerons live indoors in order to let them bond more fully with humans--as long as they have the opportunity to get out and run freely whenever they need to.
Coat Description

A Beauceron's coat is fairly coarse and short, a little over one inch in length. They boast tan markings in various spots on their body, commonly along their muzzles, underneath their muzzles, near their tails, on their legs, and on their chests. Beaucerons also have a fine, gray undercoat that is usually covered entirely by their overcoat.
History

The name "Beauceron" is actually a misnomer: the breed doesn't come from the historical region of Beauce, but from the region of Brie. But as the name "Briard" was already taken by another breed, the misleading name "Beauceron" was applied to the herding dogs in 1898. Despite their misleading name and heritage, the Beauceron has been one of the most beloved and popular dogs in France throughout its long history (the dog currently called "Beauceron" was noted by French naturalists as early as the 1700s, with one possible mention of the breed

appearing in a manuscript dated 1578.) Beaucerons were used as messenger dogs during the World Wars--and they were also used, tragically, as a device for finding land mines in the field. But this ill treatment is hardly the norm for Beaucerons--and the fact that the Beaucerons were willing to march into minefields for their beloved humans gives some compelling evidence for their noble, admirable character.
Temperament

Beaucerons are nearly as proud of themselves as their owners are of them. They are known for their combination of reserve and frankness when meeting strangers, and are not known for overly aggressive barking or violence when confronting the unknown. They're also known for their strong leadership abilities within the animal kingdom--a necessary quality when herding large numbers of sheep or warding off predators, and one which gives the Beauceron a great deal of its noble bearing. The problem with this noble temperament, however, is this: the Beauceron is an incredibly noble, commanding dog, and he or she always knows it. If you, as the owner, don't know it--and don't show it--the Beauceron has a tendency to assume that he or she is at a higher place in the pack hierarchy than you--and to act accordingly. This can lead to aggressive behavior, destructive activities, or simply a lack of respect and an inability to properly train the breed. This leadership ability and reserve makes the Beauceron ideal as a watchdog simply because it "splits the difference" between the faults of smaller, aggressive terriers and the faults of larger, more sedate retriever-type dogs. Beaucerons are a natural deterrent to dangerous individuals due to their menacing appearance and pure size, of course, but they also tend to regard strangers with openness rather than with terrified barking or jostling for territory. If strangers start to become openly hostile, of course--if they break into your home, if they threaten your family, if they appear to be highly suspicious or frightened--the Beauceron will take charge of the situation and defend his people with maximum ferocity. This is a useful quality, of course--but it also means that you need to be careful about raising your voice to any family members when a Beauceron is in the area, no matter how highly the dog might think of you. Beaucerons will work well with other animals and children--provided that the children learn fairly early on how to handle the Beauceron, and provided that the animals don't mind being pushed to a lower place within the animal hierarchy of your house. If children tease or harm the Beauceron, he's unlikely to take well to them--and almost certain not to take orders from them, even when they get older and bigger. This can lead to serious discipline problems from your Beauceron, and should be avoided. If children are respectful yet firm with their Beauceron, however, the Beauceron can be an excellent companion and guardian, even for very young children.
Health Problems

As Herding dogs, Beaucerons have few major Health Problems. There are some things that a responsible Beauceron owner will watch out for, however, including the following:

 hip dysplasia

Progressive Retinal Atrophy Gastric torsion / Bloat. Many large dogs can suffer from this last condition, and it needs to be treated as quickly as possible in order to avoid a life-threatening emergency. If your Beauceron starts pacing, Drooling or Vomiting uncontrollably, or otherwise acting upset and agitated, take him or her to the vet as quickly as possible Grooming

Beaucerons present few problems as far as grooming goes. Their dewclaws will require some amount of trimming, of course, but only when they get too long or cause damage to the dogs. As far as their coats go, the only grooming you might need to do in order to keep your Beauceron in good health is to brush the dog more often than normal during shedding season, which happens at the usual rate for dogs of the Beauceron's size and type (not enough to cause significant problems for any allergy sufferers in your house). Of course, one thing that any good Beauceron owner should know (and given enough time, will know): the Beauceron, with its rambunctious personality and outdoor lifestyle, can sometimes smell perfectly awful. More than that, they often make your house smell perfectly awful--and become perfectly dirty as well. Specific Beaucerons have been known to leave mud markings along the walls as they brush past, and their legs, freshly wet from romping through the fields, will no doubt track dirt and slop all over your furniture. So even though the Beauceron itself doesn't require frequent grooming for health purposes, it does require frequent grooming for the sake of your health, your possessions, and your sanity. If the Beauceron is trained to be patient with humans and water, you can probably wash one in a bathtub or outside using a hose and some dog shampoo. Using the hose may be the better option in the long run, simply because the smell of a wet Beauceron isn't on most people's list of "Favorite Animal Smells", and leaving the Beauceron outside gives it some opportunity to get dry while still enjoying itself--though hopefully in a fenced, reasonably clean area so that the Beauceron doesn't get itself dirty again--and require yet another bath and shampoo. (Of course, if you're willing to accept a little bit of destruction--and if you can get used to the smell--you can always leave the Beauceron to its own devices and groom it minimally with no real problems for the dog.)
Exercise

Beaucerons were bred as herding dogs--which means, above all, outdoor dogs. That means in turn that they're going to want to spend as much time outdoors as possible--and in order to build the strongest possible relationship with your dog, you'll want to spend time outdoors with them as well.

Long walks are a given, and a bare minimum as far as exercising a Beauceron goes. You'll also want to take some time to go jogging, to take long bike rides, to play elaborate games of fetching, and possibly even some swimming or other strenuous activity. (One activity to avoid is probably chasing--Beaucerons, being herding dogs, will no doubt love it, but you, being chased by a one hundred-plus pound dog, will no doubt have some reservations about engaging in this kind of play more than once.)
Training

Beaucerons are highly trainable dogs, and can be considered among the most impressive of dog breeds when well-trained: noble, imposing, helpful toward human beings, and with few problems related to discipline. The problem, however, is that few people actually know how to take full advantage of the Beauceron through training. Worse yet, many people think that a Beauceron can be trained with just a few hours of work every week, leaving the Beauceron completely alone in the house for the rest of the time. This will inevitably result in an untrained Beauceron--meaning a destructive, neurotic, and aggressive Beauceron--and will obliterate many of the qualities of nobility and gentleness that make the Beauceron so attractive as a breed in the first place. Despite the difficulty of training a Beauceron, it's vital to learn how to train the Beauceron yourself--and to devote a great deal of time to this training--if you think that this breed is ultimately for you. Hiring a professional trainer may result in a well-trained, obedient Beauceron, it's true--but that Beauceron will be well-trained and obedient when his or her trainer is around, and will be another kind of dog altogether when it's simply you in the drivers' seat. So if you're interested in owning a Beauceron, make sure that you're willing to learn how to train it--and make sure that you're willing to spend the time to train it effectively as well. One of the keys to successfully training a Beauceron is to train it early. This holds true for all dogs, of course--one of the easiest ways to ensure that a dog behaves in a desirable fashion is to ensure that desirable habits are formed before the dog has a chance to form less desirable habits-that he learns to chew his bone before he learns to chew your sofa, for example. But for the Beauceron, the early training policy isn't merely a good idea, it's absolutely vital--for the simple reason that the Beauceron, who can be a fairly cute puppy of only a few pounds, will inevitably grow into a massive, hundred-pound dog with powerful limbs and a powerful personality. And if you haven't taught the Beauceron how to curb that personality early on, all of that weight and power will be used--but not in a way that you'll enjoy, we guarantee. Once your training program has begun, remember to follow two rules: keep it up, and be consistent. The Beauceron's inherent nobility and arrogance makes it less likely to obey your commands at first, or to be interested in a training program. It's vital to gain the dog's respect through positive training messages and some light negative methods--probably limited to a harsh tone of voice to discourage negative behavior, consistently applied. Consistency is the key here: the Beauceron needs to know, from constant, repeated examples, exactly which behaviors are rewarded and which behaviors are punished. If the Beauceron perceives the slightest leeway in your policy--if, for example, you punish your dog whenever you see him chewing the furniture, but then leave him alone for twelve hours a day to chew the furniture unmolested--then the Beauceron won't perceive you with respect, won't follow your commands, and will gradually

become more aggressive and hostile toward the human beings who, in the dog's mind, he or she rules over. Does this mean that a Beauceron can't be trained? Absolutely not--but be aware of the commitment it takes to effectively train a dog of this breed, be willing to take the time to train it, and be patient. If you can do all of these things, it's only a matter of time before you reap your noble reward.

Bedlington Terriers
Life Span:12-17 years (occasionally more) Litter Size:3-6 puppies Group:Terrier Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Liver, Blue, , Blue/Tan, Liver/Tan, Sandy/Tan. Bedlington puppies often appear white, which is not a recognized color for this breed. Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:16-17 in (41-43 cm) Male Weight:17-23 lbs (8-10 kg). Female Height:15-16 in (38-41 cm). Female Weight:17-23 lbs (8-10 kg). Living Area:Bedlington Terriers do better in apartments than they do in wide open areas. Although a well-cared for Bedlington Terrier can still thrive in rural or loosely-populated suburban areas, the ideal environment for a Bedlington remains a small living situation or apartment with support and companionship from humans.
Description

Bedlington Terriers are medium-sized dogs covered in lightly-colored fur, sometimes patched in two colors. They bear a passing resemblance to Whippets in their shape (with no distinct stop between the crown of their heads and their nose), and their curling, dense coat gives them a fairly

non-threatening look, something like a tiny cloud with two eyes, claws, and a panting pink tongue.
Coat Description

The Bedlington Terrier has a light, curling coat, usually about one inch in length. According to AKC breed standards, the coat should be resistant to touch, but not wiry. The natural white color will usually be replaced by a darker color after about a year of life, however, and will only revert to white in patches if the dog is injured on some portion of his coat. This white "injury spot" is temporary, and will return to the dog's adult color given enough time.
History

The cuteness of the Bedlington Terrier belies its somewhat sinister origins-the breed, under its earlier name of "Rothbury Terrier" or "Gypsy Dog", was often used by Gypsies to aid them in illegal hunting of game. Although one of the earliest reports of a dog similar to the Bedlington Terrier can be found in the records of one "Squire Trevelyan" in the late eighteenth century, the most common progenitor of today's Bedlington Terrier is considered to be the dog owned by a group of itinerant Gypsy nailmakers near Rothbury in Northumberland. Aside from its value to poachers, this Bedlington was noted for its ferocity, with reports of the dogs fighting badgers and foxes (and winning), and the breed was prized for its tenacity in illegal dogfights-the Bedlingtons invariably fighting their opponents to the death. Thankfully, the Bedlington was eventually taken under the wing of professional breeders, with the breed being registered and exhibited in 1877 (following a probable cross with the Whippet). Since then, the Bedlington has moved beyond its unsavory past and become a staple dog for many proud apartment dwellers and dog exhibitors worldwide.
Temperament

The Bedlington Terrier looks fairly harmless. Do not be fooled. The breed has a long history of aggressive behavior-much like other terriers, true, but with a special sinister history all its own. Bedlingtons have been known as savage fighters for at least one hundred years, and their skill as ratters-and even game hunters-have been prized by all manner of people, from small farmers to itinerant poachers. Yet in the late nineteen hundreds, crossbreeding efforts resulted in a slight leavening of the Bedlington's natural viciousness. Today's Bedlington retains many of the more aggressive characteristics of the breed, but has also augmented these with positive attributes-aggressive loyalty, for example, and a powerful devotion to the humans they accept as family. Bedlingtons are noted for being excellent watchdogs, whether or not you want them to be such-like many terriers, they can be problem barkers. But their problem barking comes from an authentically noble place.

Bedlingtons are very good with children, provided that they get to know them early on. They are somewhat less good with other animals, who they often view either as dangers (in the case of smaller, more rodential animals like pet mice or squirrels) or as actual rivals (in the case of other dogs or cats.) The key to keeping your Bedlington's relationships with its fellow animals harmonious is to introduce the Bedlington to them as early as possible and to let him or her know, in no uncertain training terms, that violence and aggressiveness are not to be tolerated. Bedlingtons are also exceedingly playful, intelligent, and cheerful dogs. They enjoy chasing games above all (as any good ratter would), and their ability to learn new skills quickly makes them a joy to train. Like many terriers, they aren't the easiest breed in the world to teach tricks to, being fairly self-willed and independent-minded-but their inherent nervousness and seriousness (coupled with a genuine good will) can make them enjoyable playmates nonetheless. One would think, given the Bedlington's native self-willed nature, that the Bedlington would therefore be a fairly self-sufficient breed (similar to cats.) This simply isn't true-Bedlingtons have a close connection to their family of humans and prefer to be in their company whenever possible. So it's not a good idea to leave a Bedlington Terrier alone for any long space of time, as their nervousness and intelligence-so often prized in watchdogs and playmates-can easily be turned in the mind of a jealous dog into quite imaginatively destructive behavior. Bedlingtons are good dogs for apartment dwellers or those without a great deal of space for exercising dogs, truebut they're not good dogs for those who don't have the time to spend on keeping the Bedlington from feeling lonely or abandoned.
Health Problems

The Bedlington Terrier is prone to one particularly serious Health problem: copper toxicosis. This genetic disorder allows copper deposits to build up in the liver, eventually leading to cirrhosis and death. Although breeders have tried very carefully to keep the genetic stock of the Bedlington Terriers free of this disease, and although the breed is fairly long-lived even with the disease, it's still a good idea to take a Bedlington Terrier to the vet in order to get an early warning so that you can adequately care for your dog. Apart from copper toxicosis, Bedlington Terriers face Health Problems including:
Renal Cortical Hypoplasia

Renal Dysplasia

distichiasis

Grooming

Despite the complicated, tangled appearance of the Bedlington Terrier's coat, grooming the Bedlington is surprisingly simple. Save for a brushing once or twice a week, the Bedlington only requires a full trimming and grooming once every six weeks-which seems like quite a bit of work, but which is infrequent enough (and easy enough, once you get the hang of it) to make the dog relatively low-maintenance in its adult years. The Bedlington's specialized grooming involves clipping the body and head fur fairly closely to the dog's skin in order to accentuate its distinctive shape, while leaving the fur on the legs slightly longer (a common practice with terriers). Above all, the hair in the ears should be clipped closely or even shaved, as the Bedlington's curly, dense fur can easily breed moderate infections. Although washing the Bedlington may seem to be a good option from time to time, it's not a good idea to bathe this breed too frequently-their fur can become looser and less attractive (and healthy) as a result of too many washings in too short a time. When Bedlingtons are young, they require a bit more maintenance. In particular, young Bedlingtons tend to tear up more often than adult dogs due to the pain of teething and to other puppy frustrations. This isn't a problem in many breeds, but because of the tendency for Bedlingtons to suffer from eye disease in later life, it's a good idea to monitor your Bedlington's eyes for any excess tearing or dampness and to clean the fur around his or her eyes regularly. Doing this prevents early-life eye problems, which goes along way to help eye problems in later life. One final note: the Bedlington does not, as a rule, shed. This means that you'll have to do some brushing, yes-but it's also very good news for anyone in your house who suffers from allergies, or anyone who'd rather brush their dog for a few minutes once or twice a week than vacuum a fur-covered floor for an hour every day.
Exercise

Bedlingtons, like many terriers, are fairly self-sufficient as far as exercise goes. For apartment living, one or two walks a day will give your dog the outdoor exercise he or she needs. It's necessary to walk your Bedlington on a leash-Bedlingtons are quite nervous, and will think nothing of breaking away to chase a squirrel, rabbit, cat, or even another dog-sometimes a much larger and more dangerous dog. If you don't fancy chasing your Bedlington and breaking of fights, keep them close at hand. If you plan to keep your Bedlington in the yard when you're not around, make sure that you've done some work toward eliminating digging as a problem behavior. Bedlingtons are notorious for their digging abilities, and any untrained Bedlington left in a yard for a sufficient amount of time will no doubt start tunneling. It's best to keep a close eye on your Bedlington and not to allow him or her to be in the yard alone until you're reasonably sure that he or she knows for sure that digging is not appreciated. Even then, it's a bad idea to leave your Bedlington alone in the yard for a long period of time-terriers often start behaving destructively when they feel themselves to be abandoned.

You can leave a Bedlington alone in an apartment-the dog will find enough to do to occupy him or herself and to keep fit and active. But again, don't leave a Bedlington Terrier (or any terrier) alone for too long, or you may find evidence of destructive behavior upon your return-which is exercise, of course, but certainly not the kind you'd prefer. If you and your family simply don't have the time to be with your Bedlington throughout the day, make sure that you know someone who's available to take the Bedlington outside for a walk or to stop by for a game or two (or even just a feeding) in order to stave off destructive feelings of loneliness-and to help the Bedlington become used to interacting positively with people outside of his or her immediate family as well.
Training

Training your Bedlington Terrier is made easier by the fact that like all terriers, the Bedlington Terrier is highly intelligent. Training your Bedlington Terrier is made more difficult by the fact that like all terriers, the Bedlington Terrier is highly aggressive and self-willed. The former quality makes it easier for your Bedlington to pick up on commands, instructions, and tricks; the latter quality means that you have many more commands, instructions, and tricks to teach before you end up with a well-trained dog. Two problem behaviors that you'll want to eliminate in early training are digging and barking. Both behaviors result from the Bedlington's genetic heritage as a hunter and a ratter-two professions that require a good ability to dig quickly and a good sense of nervousness. Although digging and problem barking aren't often a problem in early life, they'll become a huge problem in later life, so it's a good idea to replace these behaviors with alternate patterns before bad habits become set in your dog's mind. You can combat the former by giving your dog other outlets for his or her energy-toys, tricks, or even heavy obedience training to take his or her mind off of digging-and you can combat the latter by exposing your dog to a variety of people early on and by making it clear through aversive conditioning that barking and aggressiveness are not viable behaviors. The earlier you expose your dog to people outside your immediate family, the easier it will be to eliminate barking in later life. Other animals can sometimes be a problem for the notoriously-ferocious and territorial Bedlington Terrier. Again, you can best combat this problem by introducing other animals and children to the Bedlington early on and by making it clear that aggressiveness and fighting are not the right behaviors to use when "making friends". Do not be afraid to break up a fight between your Bedlington and other animals (even much larger dogs)-the Bedlington as a breed has a long and distinguished history of violence, and an equally distinguished history of not giving up a fight until his opponent flees or dies. You don't want that to happen-so use whatever means are necessary (without psychically or physically scarring your dog) to ensure that he or she knows that fighting is definitely not allowed.

Belgian Malinois
12-14 years Litter Size: 6 to 10 puppies

Group: Herding and AKC Herding and part of the Sheepdog family Color: The most basic color of the Belgian Malinois is a rich fawn color to mahogany with black tips on the hair. Most dogs with the fawn to mahogany color also have white spots or patches on the paws and chest. Hair Length: Short

Size: Large Shedding: Moderate Shed Male Height: 24-26 inches (61-66 cm) Male Weight: 65-75 pounds (29-34 kg) Female Height: 22-24 (56-61) Female Weight: 55-65 pounds (25-30 kg)

Living Area:The Belgian Malinois is such an active dog that he will need to spend a lot of time outdoors running and playing. Although he loves taking walks with his master, he needs to be able to run and jog as well. He may love the outdoors for playing, but he will do better living inside the home where he can be with his family members all the time.

Description
The Belgian Malinois is a medium-sized, hard-working dog in the sheepdog family. Although it is known in the United States as Belgian Malinois, it is often classified as a variety of the Belgian Shepherd Dog. Many dog experts use the word "square" to describe this dog because its body is almost as long as it is tall. The Belgian Malinois is strong, muscular dog with a level back and a slope at the withers and deep chest that goes down to the elbow. It has a long tail that reaches to the hock. The legs are long and straight with the dewclaws usually removed. The hair is short coated, eyes are dark and almond shaped, and ears are erect and alert. In many ways, the Malinois is similar to the German shepherd. He has a very elegant appearance of being strong and solid but not bulky. The Belgian Malinois is a very sensitive dog that makes a great family dog, but not for a beginner dog owner. They are loaded with energy and usually want to use this energy up with their master. It is important that you find activities for them to do so they don't find stuff to do on their own, stuff that may be negative. Because of their sensitive nature, many owners have stated that when they have a bad day, the dog just knows and responds accordingly. This dog is exceptionally intelligent and easily trained. They thrive on pleasing their master and doing things with them, never tiring of doing things together. They do not respond well to loud verbal discipline but rather to positive praise. Because of their intelligence and high energy level, they excel in many dog sports such as agility, flyball, herding, search and rescue and competitive obedience. It is important to give the Malinois plenty of exercise and opportunity to run off all its energy.

The Belgian Malinois makes a great family dog getting along well with all family members including children, especially if they grew up together. It is a good idea to socialize your Malinois with the public to avoid shyness and being unsocialized with strangers. They are very protective dogs and will protect their master and their home, but they are not aggressive. The Malinois will not be happy living in a kennel as some dogs do, although they do tolerate the cold weather well. He is double coated so he'll shed in the house, but is still happiest in the house. Because of their high intelligence and desire to please, they are easy to housebreak with consistent training. It is fine to leave them alone in the house while you work, but they will need to have instant exercise outdoors when you arrive home.

Coat Description
The coat of the Belgian Malinois is short and straight with a dense undercoat. The hair is slightly longer around the neck giving the appearance of a collar. The dog sheds his coat twice a year. Because of the weather resistant features of the coat, this dog is very tolerant of cold weather. If they are darker dogs, they don't always have the white spots. The mask and ears are black. Some have the coloring of grey to fawn with the black tipping of the hair giving it an overlay appearance. The ears, cheeks and muzzle are black. Their colouring is one of the resemblances they have to some German Shepherd dogs.

History
The Belgian Malinois dog, originally a part of the variety of Belgium Shepherd dog, was developed in "Belgium in the 1900s. This dog was bred to be an intelligent and loyal dog in the city of Malines and was the favorite there and in Belgium. The first Malinois was recognized and registered in 1901 by Club Societe Royale de St. Hubert. In 1911, the first Belgian Malinois was imported in the United States and recognized by the AKC (American Kennel Club). They were registered, at that time, as part of the miscellaneous group and not a breed of herding dog. After that, they became Belgian Sheepdogs, followed by the working group in 1965. Finally, years later the AKC recognized them as part of the herding class of dogs.

Temperament
The Belgian Malinois is such a versatile dog that so many words can be used to describe their temperament. They are serious and watchful, but yet loving and playful. They are a great watchdog, very protective and territorial with their owner and home. These are some of the traits that make them excellent police dogs. This is one similarity they have with the German shepherd. They have a tendency to become loyal to one or two people and will bond very strongly with these people. Some Malinois may be shy, but this is usually a result of too little socialization from a young age. From a very young age, the Belgian Malinois needs to be social with people and needs firm but loving training. They are very alert and playful and love doing things with the family such as running, jogging, or just playing catch in the back yard. You will get tired of playing long before they will. If they

have been raised around other animals like cats, there will probably not be a problem provided they were socialized together from a young age. The Malinois tends to be dominant toward other dogs, however. It is not unusual for a Malinois to occasionally act out during the first year of its life, acting silly, out of control or even silly. This is perfectly normal and acceptable puppy behavior but needs to be nipped in the bud so the pattern does not continue into adulthood. They will go through a few different behavior phases the first year. It is at this time, that the Malinois needs to learn what acceptable or unacceptable behavior is. Avoid being too stern or harsh, as Malinois can pick up on the smallest of moods and will react accordingly. Some Malinois have been known to be too aggressive or too shy. Keeping in mind that some of it can be hereditary, watch these traits, and if the dog doesn't outgrow them, seek advice from a professional trainer. A well-trained and well-adjusted Malinois will be loving, playful and loyal all of his or her life with proper attention, exercise and care.

Health Problems
The Belgian Malinois is basically a pretty healthy dog. They are occasionally prone to hip dysplasia, which is a crippling genetic problem. When purchasing a Belgian Malinois puppy, make sure that both the parents have had their hip x-rayed and are OFA certified as good or excellent. elbow dysplasia is also a problem with the Malinois, though not as much as with the hips. Other Health concerns that sometimes occur are skin Allergies, eye problems Progressive Retinal Atrophy and occasional Epilepsy. Most of these problems are rare and luckily, the dog is a healthy dog that will live a long life if properly cared for. Gastric torsion Bloat is also a lifethreatening condition that affects some Belgian Malinois. Some Belgian Malinois are prone to certain types of cancer.

Grooming
The Belgian Malinois is a smooth short-coated dog that is easy to groom. They require a regular brushing with a firm bristle brush. Because they have a double coat, they will shed constantly, but they do their heavy shedding twice a year. Their coat has a waterproof quality that can be removed if the dog is bathed too often, so it is recommended to only bathe them when absolutely necessary. Because of the constant shedding, you may want to brush them daily if they are kept indoors, as they probably are. Most dogs and Malinois are no exception, love being brushed. When you do give them a bath, there are special shampoos and conditioners that you can get from your vet or pet supply store. These will help clean your dog's fur and skin without removing the natural oils. Be sure to keep his ears clean and dry. Special ear wipes for dogs work excellently in cleaning the ears and removing wax. Make sure you keep the inside of the ears dry to avoid ear infections. Proper dental care is also important for your Belgian Malinois to avoid future problems. There

are special rinses or special brushes to use on their teeth. You can have your vet clip their nails or do this yourself with special dog clippers. Most of these health routines should be started on your dog when he is a small puppy to get him used to the idea of daily hygiene.

Exercise
Belgian Malinois dogs need as much exercise as you can possibly give them. They are highly energetic dogs that need more than just an occasional walk around the block. They excel in almost every dog sport they participate in. They do not do well living in a small kennel. While they enjoy being indoors with you, they prefer to be playing outside. You will find that while playing games such as catching the ball, they never get tired. You will want to end the playtime long before they do. They should be on a leash while walking, however, as they may wish to chase other small animals, that they consider as prey. Part of this stems from their breeding and being part of the herding family of dogs. There is hardly any activity that the Malinois won't do if his master participates. Some trainers feel that the Malinois have a huge play drive and any activity is considered as playing to them. They love jogging along side their master. Many Malinois even participate in lure course, which is chasing an artificial lure around an obstacle course, following a certain line. Because of their loyalty, high-energy drive and intelligence, they participate and succeed in Schutzund training.

Training
The Belgian Malinois is a very active and highly intelligent dog that thrives on activity, exercise and playing. Put these three traits together and you have an excellent dog that excels in obedience, tracking, agility, flyball, lure course, herding and even Schutzund. Because of their high energy level, it is important to start their training at an early age to deter them from negative and destructive behavior brought out by boredom. The Malinois will never get tired of exercise and training, often considering this as part of his playtime. It is very important that you be firm with his training as if given an inch, they will take a foot. The training should begin at a very young age and good behavior should be rewarded with praise. Positive reinforcement works very well with this dog as all he wants to do is please you. Do not be verbally negative with the Malinois as they are very sensitive to negative tones and will not respond as well. Because of their high drive and intelligence, they are trained as guard dogs, police dogs and search and rescue dogs. When they are young pups, they should be enrolled in a puppy obedience kindergarten to get them used to what is expected of them. It is very important to be consistent with their training. They will not only expect it daily, but also come to look forward to it. This is also important to get them socialized around other dogs and especially other people. Often, the Malinois that isn't properly socialized as a pup will grow up to be either a shy dog or an aggressive dog. With the high energy level they possess, you do not want them to become aggressive or overly shy. Enrolling them in a training course as a pup will also allow professional trainers to observe him

and help advise you as to what other training courses are available for you both such as Schutzund, competitions or showing.

Belgian Sheepdogs
Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:6-10 puppies Group:Herding, AKC Herding Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Solid black. Some small amounts of white allowed on the chest and the tips of the back feet toes. Hair Length:Medium Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed, Heavy Shed Male Height:24-26 inches (61-66 cm) Male Weight:65-75 pounds (29-34 kg) Female Height:22-24 inches (56-61 cm) Female Weight:60-70 pounds (27-32 kg) Living Area:While the Belgian Sheepdog can adjust to an apartment they are an active, outdoors dog that does best with a medium to large sized fenced yard. They can tolerate colder climates as well as being left outdoors during the day, provided they get lots of attention and interaction with people on a daily basis.
Description

The Belgian Sheepdog is a very athletic and able dog that is alert, intelligent yet also a very good companion dog. They are very similar in overall appearance to the German Shepherd although the Belgian Sheepdog is typically all black or black with a very slight amount of white allowed on the chest and the muzzle, with white tips allowed on the hind toes and between the pads of the feet. White on the tips of the front toes is considered a serious fault in the show ring and white or any other color elsewhere on the dog results in disqualification from a show. The head of the Belgian Sheepdog is very clear and crisp in its outline and formation. The ears

are very erect and completely triangular and always held very erect and pricked. The ears of the Belgian Sheepdog should never hang down or fold over. The muzzle is long and very tapered with a noticeable stop between the muzzle and the forehead. The eyes are wide set, dark brown and very intelligent and alert looking. The hair on the face is very short and dense, gradually lengthening into a ruff and the longer hairs on the neck and body. The neck of the Belgian Sheepdog is moderately long and very strong and muscular in appearance. The neck should outwards from the skull to the powerful shoulders. The shoulders are rather angular and flat in appearance, leading into well developed legs that have a typically oval shape. The legs are very straight and well formed when viewed from the front or the side. The chest is moderately deep and narrow, flowing into a well sprung rib cage. The abdomen cuts up towards the backbone moderately. The topline is slightly sloping from the high point of the shoulders, the withers, to the hips. The hind legs are very well muscled with the hocks well bent but without the angulation or crouching type appearance seen in other shepherds. The feet are round and cat like and well arched. Typically the dewclaws are removed at least on the hind legs but often on the front as well. The bones of the hind legs are also oval in shape rather than rounded. The tail is long and curves slightly upwards at about the level of the hock. The overall shape of the body of the Belgian Sheepdog forms a square, although the dog is not heavy it does appear substantial. The legs are relatively long and the stride is smooth and flowing. The Belgian Sheepdog has a unique gait that results in a single tracking or all legs moving towards the center of the body when the dog is in a fast gait. They naturally travel in a somewhat circular fashion rather than on a completely straight line.
Coat Description

The coat of the Belgian Sheepdog is double, with a soft, dense inner coat and a longer, slightly coarser outer coat. The coat is medium long with noticeable fringes on the legs and tail as well as longer and thicker hair around the neck in the ruff and chest area. The white on the toes of the back feet can extend between the pads. Any white on the front feet is a serious fault. The muzzle can have a slight amount of white or gray coloration. In some areas the coat may fade to a slightly reddish tinge and this is not a fault if it is due to the environment and not to the actual coloration of the dog.
History

The Belgian Sheepdog, known in its native land, as the Groenendael is one of the four types of shepherd dogs from Belgium, all that are very similar except for their coloration and coats. The all black Belgian Sheepdog is derived from a single kennel in Groenendael, hence the traditional name. The breed was developed by Nicholas Rose the late 1800s from a pair of all black shepherds. Mr. Rose bred his dogs for both herding and protection and they were very popular in the area, with the demand for the dogs increasing with every litter. It is believed that the original ancestors of all four of the Belgian shepherd varieties likely had ancestors from the German Shepherds, Bouvier des Flanders, Beaucerons, Briards and Holland

Herders, plus what we now refer to as the Belgian Sheepdog. This large grouping of dogs was originally known as the Continental Shepherds and it is from this mix that Nicholas Rose chose his all-black colored breeding stock. Historically the Belgian Sheepdog has been used as a herding and protection dog on farms and in rural areas but has also been used as a military dog, search and rescue dog as well as a police dog. They can be used in Schutzhund events that are very demanding on the dog.
Temperament

As a flock protector and herding dog the Belgian Sheepdog must be intelligent and somewhat independent, protective and gentle, as well as obedient and able to think through problems without the help of the owner or shepherd. The result is a very intelligent, active and alert dog that is capable of working on its own as well as responding unhesitantly to the owners instructions and commands. Of course this kind of response takes time and practice to develop. The Belgian Sheepdog is a very sensitive dog and will respond to the slightest sound of disapproval in the owner's voice. Without proper socialization they can become timid and very shy, or may also become overly aggressive if they feel trapped or cornered. With proper socialization from an early age the Belgian Sheepdog will be a very well-adjusted and well balanced dog, good as both a companion and a family protector and watchdog. The Belgian Sheepdog is a good family pet for those with small children or families provided the puppy is socialized with children and becomes accustom to the movement and loud noises associated with small kids. They will typically bond with one or two people in the family the strongest, but will love attention from everyone. They will listen and respond to children and are very obedient although not typically highly playful dogs. The Belgian Sheepdog is naturally very protective so care needs to be taken when introducing strangers and new people. A Belgian Sheepdog can be trained to live in a house with other dogs and pets, although introductions and socialization should be done slowly and with lots of supervision before leaving the Belgian Sheepdog alone with dogs or other pets. They do have a tendency to chase, especially cats, but if raised as a puppy in a house with cats they are much more accepting. They do best with a companion dog that is of a non-dominant breed and will typically get along best with a spayed or neutered companion dog of the opposite gender. The Belgian Sheepdog should never exhibit signs of aggressiveness or viciousness or fearfulness. Either of these characteristics, aggression or fearfulness, should disqualify the dog for any breeding programs.
Health Problems

The Belgian Sheepdog has been very fortunate in avoiding some of the poor Breeding practices that have resulted in many genetic conditions that are problematic in other breeds. The most commonly seen Health conditions in the Belgian Sheepdog include:

 Epilepsy - a seizure disorder often seen in various levels of severity from a few seconds of rigidity to full out seizures. Can be treated with medication in most cases. hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia - a hereditary condition of hip and elbow joint problems and degeneration. All breeding stock should be checked and certified to prevent transmitting this genetic condition. Skin Allergies - can be environmental or food related. Can be treated by careful monitoring and antihistamines. All dogs including the Belgian Sheepdog require regular vaccination and worming as well as at least a yearly vet check-up. Grooming

The Belgian Sheepdog is one of the breeds of dogs that "blows" its coat in the spring and fall. This means that the winter and summer coat is lost in a very heavy shed twice a year. The Belgian Sheepdog actually has two coats. The outer coat is thicker, coarser and designed to provide protection and waterproofing. The inner coat is softer, shorter and denser, adding insulation for the dog. When shedding the inner, softer coat often becomes matted or tangled with the longer, outer coat resulting in thick, knots of hair that may need clipping to be removed. To prevent this daily grooming is recommended. Always brush the outer coat first using a stiff bristle brush or grooming comb. After the outer areas including the fringe on the legs and the longer hair on the ruff is completely knot free, use a grooming rake or pin brush to brush the inner coat. Simply gently push the longer outer coat up and groom the inner coat downwards in the direction of hair growth. Doing this daily, especially during the shed will prevent most knots and mats from forming. Clip the hair around the feet and between the pads to prevent balls from forming between the toes. These balls of hair and debris can cause severe lameness and infections between the toes. Clipping the long hairs on the ears and plucking or pulling any long hairs in the outer ear area will help prevent infections in the ear itself.
Exercise

The Belgian Sheepdog is a working or herding dog, and must be exercised mentally as well as physically. They need to feel that they have something to do or a task to complete, even if it is protecting the property or escorting you on long walks. The Belgian Sheepdog will often turn to destructive type behaviors such as chewing, digging, barking and even finding ways to get out of the yard if they are not given the right amount of exercise and human contact. Since the Belgian Sheepdog is such an obedient breed of dog by nature they are excellent in obedience and agility type competitions as well as in herding events. Even for owners that don't

want to formal compete with their dogs they may wish to consider taking an obedience class and working with the dog as a way to provide both mental and physical exercise. The Belgian Sheepdog will also get a fair amount of exercise if left outdoors with a companion dog or even by themselves. They are natural patrol dogs and will walk around the yard, checking their area and providing protection. They do need room to run and explore and if kennelled or kept in the house for longer periods of time they will need longer walks and more routine exercise periods. The Belgian Sheepdog makes a great jogging dog or hiking companion. They have a seemingly endless amount of stamina are able to keep up with even the most avid runner or hiker. They also, of course, work livestock with little or no formal training which is an excellent way to provide mental stimulation and lots of hard, intense physical activity. The Belgian Sheepdog prefers exercise off the leash where they can run and stretch their legs, yet still stay close to the owner.
Training

Training the Belgian Sheepdog requires a trainer that knows how to work with a dominant and intelligent breed without using any harsh punishment or training methods. The Belgian Sheepdog needs to be treated firmly and positively to allow them to develop their strong bond with the handler. Dogs that are yelled at or punished will become fearful or aggressive rather quickly. Starting training very early is important with this breed, especially the socialization aspects of training. A puppy obedience class is highly recommended for either male or female Belgian Sheepdog puppies. Working with the dog on a regular basis is also key as this dog needs to feel that it is helping out the family and actually has a job to do. Since the Belgian Sheepdog is a naturally protective dog there is little need to specifically train for this, other than to teach the dog to stand down when strangers approach. Again, socialization and trust between the dog and the owner will be key elements of this type of training. They are not problem barkers but do need to learn to stop barking when commanded to do so. A trainer or just using a diversion such as a treat or a favorite toy will often stop the barking and then reward the dog for being quiet. One of the wonderful features of this breed is that they will respond very well to children. Often kids love to compete with the Belgian Sheepdog in obedience and agility events simply because they are a naturally obedient dog. Working with the dog on a daily basis on both exercise and fun activities as well as commands and behaviors will help the dog feel needed and active in the family.

Belgian Tervurens
Life Span:12-14 years

Litter Size:6 to 10 puppies Group:Herding and AKC Herding and part of the Sheepdog family.

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The colors of the Belgian Tervuren vary slightly with the norm being a rich shade of red (often described as mahogany) with black highlights and a black mask. Occasionally, you will see a small spot of white on the chest or the tip of the toes. Hair Length:Long, Medium Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24-26 inches (61-66 cm) Male Weight:65-75 pounds (29-34 kg) Female Height:22-24 (56-61) Female Weight:60-70 pounds (27-32 kg) Living Area:The Belgian Tervuren is comfortable and will adapt to any kind of temperature as long as he has protection from the extreme cold and extreme heat. Depending on where you live, some of these extremes can be dangerous without protection. They are happiest when indoors with the family and loving bonding with them.
Description

The Belgian Tervuren is a breed of dog that is often classified as a Belgian Shepherd dog. In the United States, the American Kennel Club (AKC) calls them Belgian Tervuren, however in Canada, they are recognized as a member of the Belgian Shepherd dog. The Belgian Tervuren, one of four Belgian Sheepdogs, is a medium-sized, slender, square proportioned dog in the sheepdog family. He has a strong look to him with a solid muscular body with hind legs that are also muscular. The entire body is solid and muscular without looking bulky, but rather elegant. The front legs are straight and perfectly proportioned to the body with round catlike feet. It has light and graceful gait, which has the appearance of floating. The Belgian Tervuren is a lively and happy dog known for their loyalty and protectiveness. They are happiest when they are doing something, specifically with their owner. They were originally bred as a herding dog and his herding instincts will still surface from time to time such as circle and nipping at heels. The Tervuren has a very high intelligence, is easy to train, and is known for

having a great sense of humor. If you could hear them laughing, you would. He is very gentle dog with this family members and people he knows well, but more guarded with strangers. They are very playful and always alert with their eyes erect constantly paying close attention to what is happening around them. When you are talking to them, you can tell they are listening. They thrive on attention and praise and need lots of attention. They are extremely energetic dogs that love to play. Failure to give them all the attention and exercise they require may result in the Tervuren turning to destructive behavior regardless of how well behaved they are. They participate in many AKC events revolving around tracking, herding, agility and obedience. Due to their intelligence, trainability and loyalty, they are used for search and rescue, guard and protection dogs for the military and police, therapy dogs, pulling sleds and fly ball competitions. The Belgian Tervuren is still very rare in the United States. Because they are such energetic dogs, they do need a yard that they can run around in and play. If they are going to spend any measurable amount of time outdoors, they will need some running room. Due to the heavy shedding, you may not want them spending every minute of the day in the house.
Coat Description

The Belgian Tervuren has a very harsh coat of medium to long length that consists of a straight black-tipped overcoat and then a dense under coat. Together they give an overlay appearance. There is thicker coat of hair on the rump and back of the legs. There is also a thicker pile of hair around the neck that looks like a collar. This shows up more on the male than the female. They coat sheds daily and needs to be brushed regularly and they have an annual big shedding where they loose one coating and develop another. The texture of the hair is very course and straight and not at all wavy. This makes it easier to keep brushed and clean, as there is less chance for matting. Although mahogany is the basic color, there have been some Tervuren that are sable or grey with white on the chin and muzzle. With the thick coat of hair and coloring, they sometimes resemble the longhaired German shepherd and are a beautiful dog.
History

The history of the Belgian Tervuren traces back to the 1880s when the Tervuren, German shepherd, French shepherds and Dutch shepherds were all called Continental Shepherd Dogs. In a 1891 a club called the Club du Chein de Berger Belge (aka Belgian Shepherd Dog Club) was started to determine if there was one true shepherd dog belonging to Belgium. Veterinary professor Adolphe Reul, in charge of the research, determined that there was one consistent type of native shepherd dog, a square medium-sized dog that differed only by the length and color of hair. A year later, the CCBB (Belgium's version of the AKC) began petitioning for a breed status for this dog. After a long process and into the beginning of the twentieth century, the dogs were finally

acknowledged and broke down into divisions of Tervuren, Malinois and Laekenois. For awhile the breed dwindled out until after the war when they began importing and breeding first the Malinois and then the Tervuren into the United States. The first Tervuren was imported in the US in 1953 and finally acknowledged by the AKC in 1959. Today they are finally registered as a breed of their own. The Belgian Tervuren was used during as guard dogs and sled dogs pulling the injured on carts as well as deliver messages. Today they are still used as police and guard dogs.
Temperament

The Belgian Tervuren is an alert, intelligent loving dog that makes a wonderful pet. He wants to be entertained by his family or he will look for his own ways to have fun. He is very protective of his family and home. He will protect his home when his family is gone. When he meets strangers, he will be alert and on guard, but does not act aggressive. If you become his friend, you are his friend for life. It is very important the Tervuren be socialized around other dogs and other people at a very young age. Proper socializing from a young age will help to prevent over aggressiveness or over shyness. If raised around young children, he makes a great playmate and watchdog. Because of his large size and energetic personality, he shouldn't be left alone with small children. Although, they are very protective and watchful of young children in the family and will not let outside harm come to them. The training should be firm, but not too harsh. They do need to know from the start what is expected of them. If they are properly socialized with cats and other animals, they seem to get along great, although they have a tendency to be dominant with other dogs. Although, by nature they are very loving, loyal and intelligent, they are demanding dogs and need a firm hand or they can be very hard to control. It is important to realize, however, that dogs are like people in that they each have their own personalities and much of how they turn out as adults is a result of the training and socialization they had as pups. Tervuren dogs are very loyal, bond to their family members, and are always watchful of them. They are quick to pick up on any strange situations in their surroundings. They are not quick to make friends with strangers, preferring their family and friends they know. They are not a recommended dog for first time dog owners because of their demanding personality. Those that own them say that you can tell the females from the males just from their behavior as the females act very feminine and the males act masculine.
Health Problems

The Belgian Tervuren doesn't have any real major Health concerns out of the ordinary for dogs of this breed or type. Some problems that have been seen are:
Epilepsy

 skin Allergies eye problems ( Progressive Retinal Atrophy )

hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia . Excessive Aggressiveness and excessive shyness has been reported in dogs that were not socialized properly. If planning on Breeding, pay close attention to the parents you intend to breed for signs of either type of excessive Behavior. This breed has a tendency to become obese and lazy, which is not healthy for dog, so be sure to not overfeed them. Grooming

Grooming is important to all dogs for a couple reasons. One reason is to make him look good and it's a way to possibly alert you to any unusual health problems in or on the skin. Another reason is this is a time for you and your dog to bond-just the two of you. It's important that you start grooming your dog when he is still a young pup so he gets used to the feeling and doesn't consider it a chore or something to fear. The Belgian has a long, straight heavy outer coat of medium length and another dense coat underneath that needs to be brushed and combed daily, if possible. With such a large amount of thick hair, it easily is matted if it's neglected and not brushed with any regularity. Clip out any mats that form, specifically in the ruff and on the legs, also clipping hair between their toes. While you are doing this is a good time to clip their toenails as well. This dog is a heavy shedder and will require regular brushing with a thorough brushing at least once a week. Keeping the ears clean and dry is very important for dogs, especially dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors. Your Tervuren will not need to be bathed very regularly, but his ears should be clean and dry. If you do bathe him, ask you pet supply store to recommend a good shampoo or conditioner for your breed of dog. Your vet or pet supply store can also recommend some wipes or cleaning supplies for your dog. While you are cleaning your dog and brushing him, use this opportunity to check him for ticks, if prevalent in your area, or anything else unusual. He will love the extra one on one attention.
Exercise

The Belgian Tervuren is a very active energetic dog and because of this, they require lots of exercise. It is used to being in the outdoors working and needs space to run and play off the leash. The kind of exercise a dog gets walking on a leash won't satisfy his desire for releasing energy. If you live near a tennis court or ball park, this would be a perfect place to take him and run with him or play catch. The Tervuren love to retrieve things and this is a great source of exercise. To avoid your Tervuren being bored at home and resorting to destructive behavior, you

need to give him enough exercise to tire him out. Because of their tendency to get obese and lazy if overfed, it is imperative that they get proper exercise to avoid that. Most dogs, like humans, slow down with age so it's up to the master to see that the dog is exercised regularly and vigorously especially if he's indoors all day while you work.
Training

Training of the Belgian Tervuren is very important, as they are an energetic, active, intelligent dog that requires constant activity and need to be doing things. It is also important to begin the training at a young age when the dog is the easiest to work with. The Tervuren thrives on pleasing his master and will respond well to positive reinforcement. Because they are very sensitive to any change in the environment, the training should be consistent. They do not take well to a leash, but need firm and loving treatment as part of their training. They need to know that you are the boss, but they need to know in a positive loving tone and they respond admirably. Once you begin the training of your puppy, obedience will be the first step. If you don't feel you have the time to do the training consistently, you may need to consult a professional trainer for assistance. The Belgian Tervuren is too energetic to be allowed to run around untrained, not to mention letting all that intelligence and loyalty go to waste. Lure coursing is a great sport for the Belgian Tervuren that teaches them control and how to retrieve and they love participating. Agility is another sport that the Tervuren excels in and has placed in at AKC competitions. Basic Obedience and Schutzund training go in steps from beginning to advanced and each step is consistent with the dog's age. It is very important for this dog to be given as much training as possible. With their background and personality traits, they are meant to serve and help people. Due to their sense of loyalty, they make excellent guard dogs, police dogs, therapy dogs and search and rescue just to name some of their accomplishments.

Bernese Mountain Dogs

Life Span:6 to 8 years Litter Size:Average of 8 puppies. Group:Mastiff, Working Dog (America) Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Tricolor (Black/Tan/White or Black/Rust/White). Hair Length:Long

Size:Extra Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:24-28 in (61-71 cm) Male Weight:85-110 lbs (38-50 kg), Female Height:23-27 in (58-69 cm) Female Weight:80-105 lbs (36-48 kg) Living Area:The Bernese Mountain Dog is an extremely loyal breed of dog, and will become upset if kept outdoors too often. You'll need to make some provision for keeping your dog indoors with your family as often as is possible. That said, however, the Bernese Mountain Dog does need some room to walk, run, and play outdoors, eliminating extremely dense urban areas as an ideal place to keep a Bernese Mountain Dog. Since the Bernese Mountain Dog isn't as prone to physical activity as some of its working dog cousins, however, you don't need to actually live out in the country in order to give your dog its ideal living environment--suburban areas or even less-dense urban areas will probably be fine to meet your dog's needs.
Description

The Bernese Mountain Dog is one of the oldest, most beautiful breeds of working dog recognized by the kennel clubs of the world--yet also one of the most fragile in certain ways. In its short life, however, the dog provides its owners with a sense of beauty and loyalty not often equalled by other breeds. Berense Mountain Dogs are gentle, loyal dogs above all. The fragility of the breed isn't readily apparent from its appearance: a distinctive tri-color coat, a stocky, muscular form, and a blazing white cross of fur on their breast. But years of isolated environments and inbreeding have conspired to keep the Bernese Mountain Dog's genetic line pure--but have also given it its share of problems, shortening the breed's average lifespan considerably in recent years. Perhaps it's a necessary trade-off, however. One can't have everything, as they say--and the Bernese Mountain Dog's excessive degree of loyalty and beauty, the product of dedicated breeding and preservation for centuries in the Swiss Alps, may have been paid for, tragically, by its too-short life.
Coat Description

The Bernese Mountain Dog's coat is thick, moderately long, and shiny. According to breed standards, this coat should be trimmed as little as possible. The dog's distinctive markings

include a white tail and a white inverted cross on its chest (when the dog is viewed from the front.)
History

The Bernese Mountain Dog has had a long history in Switzerland, with images of the dog (incorporated into allegorical religious paintings) appearing as early as the mid-17th century. The dog began to appear in written descriptions of the area somewhere in the mid-19th century, described as a traditional farm and herding dog used throughout the Alps. The dogs became increasingly popular as the popularity of professional dog breeding and showing rose throughout the start of the twentieth century, and the Bernese Mountain Dogs were one of the earlier breeds recognized by many kennel clubs around the world--thanks to the efforts of a number of Swiss "Sennenhund" enthusiasts, of course. Yet the longevity, purity, and early popularity of the dogs for professional breeders (with the exception of the AKC) has led to dramatic problems for the Bernese Mountain Dog in recent years--problems related to heredity and inbreeding, including a genetically induced propensity for cancer, have conspired to shorten the lifespan of this once-hardy breed.
Temperament

If there's only one word to describe the Bernese Mountain Dog, it's "loyal". The chief goal of the Bernese Mountain Dog's life--however brief it may be compared to some other breeds--is to be a loyal, helpful companion to you and your family. This has its advantages and its disadvantages, of course. The chief advantage of the Bernese Mountain Dog's friendly temperament is the ability the dogs have to integrate themselves into virtually any kind of family environment. Children or other household animals are not a problem whatsoever for the Bernese Mountain Dog (though of course the earlier it gets to know its fellow housemates, the better it will deal with them in adult life.) The Bernese Mountain Dog's herding instincts make it a natural with animals (or children) that it perceives as "lower" than itself in the pack hierarchy, and the dogs will serve as ideal watchdogs and protectors for even the most recalcitrant of children or the most vicious of cats. The chief disadvantage of the Bernese Mountain Dog's temperament, however, is its neediness. The Bernese Mountain Dog has a powerful, genetically-rooted need to please its humans--which means that you'll have to devote a great deal of attention to this dog in order to keep it happy and to keep it out of trouble. Training is also more difficult for the Bernese Mountain Dog than for some breeds--although the Bernese Mountain Dog will try assiduously to please you, it doesn't have some of the cunning other breeds exhibit, which allow them to learn the rules quickly (and even sometimes to use the rules to manipulate you.) So training a Bernese Mountain Dog will require a great deal of patience, however good the dog's basic intentions and will are. Another major quality of the Bernese Mountain Dog is its laziness--surprisingly, given its genetic heritage. The Bernese Mountain Dog is only willing to exert large amounts of energy for fairly short periods of time, preferring to simply be with its humans or to engage in short bursts

of work followed by rest. This can be a negative quality if you prefer your dogs to be active companions--but it can be an extremely positive quality if you're used to dogs whose abundance of energy leads to destructive behavior if you leave them alone for more than an hour or two.
Health Problems

The Bernese Mountain Dog is prone to a few serious Health Problems, most prominently including:
hip dysplasia Gastric torsion / Bloat. If your dog begins showing signs of Bloat (restlessness, uncontrollable Drooling or Vomiting, nervousness, and bizarre standing or sitting positions), take him or her to the vet immediately in order to avoid a life-threatening condition.

Cancer In recent years, the Bernese Mountain Dog's average lifespan has plummeted from around 10-12 years to a scant 6-8 years--assuming the standard "dog years" trope of seven dog years to every human year, this is like a cherished friend dying in his or her early forties. It's important to get your Bernese Mountain Dog checked as frequently as possible by a qualified vet for signs of cancer in order to reduce the risks of your pet dying from this terrible disease. Grooming

First, there's the bad news: Bernese Mountain Dogs shed year-round, and shed heavily. Because of this, you'll need to take care to brush and shampoo the dogs whenever they're shedding the most heavily in order to keep their fur healthy and in order to keep as much of it as possible under your control and off of your furniture, of course. During periods of less heavy shedding, you can often get away with a normal session of brushing and combing once a week, or even once every two weeks. Depending on the activity level of your specific dog, you might want to increase this grooming cycle to incorporate some baths, shampooing, or even clipping in order to remove heavy mats, tangles, or mud streaks caused by too much vigorous outside play. The Bernese Mountain Dog as a rule isn't as energetic as some other mastiff/working breeds, but they do have the ability to cause havoc every now and then-and you should be ready to respond to this with heavier grooming whenever necessary. Although you shouldn't be afraid to trim or clip some of your Bernese Mountain Dog's fur when it becomes a cleanliness problem, you'll want to avoid any excessive trimming or clipping on a regular basis. The Bernese Mountain Dog's chief attribute is often considered to be its shiny, shaggy coat, and excessive trimming can mar and dull the appearance of this coat in the short

term--or even damage the overall health of your dog's coat, permanently dulling his or her beautiful colors. Although brushing and combing should be done on a regular basis, trimming and clipping should be reserved for only the most severely matted or tangled fur. If you plan to show or breed your Bernese Mountain Dog, you'll need to do a bit of additional grooming work--most importantly, you'll need to trim or remove any dewclaws that your dog may have. Dewclaws--or split toes, resulting in extra claws and sometimes in thumb-like protrusions from the dog's paw--are considered flaws by many breed standards, and could exacerbate some of the joint and hip problems the Bernese Mountain Dog is susceptible to. So removing dewclaws isn't just a good idea from the point of view of professional breeding--it's also a good idea to keep your dog healthier and fitter throughout its life.
Exercise

For a working dog, the Bernese Mountain Dog is surprisingly lazy. Due to the breed's heavy bone structure and propensity for joint problems, the Bernese Mountain Dog tends to be active and energetic for only short bursts of time every day. This can be a relief for some owners who are less active themselves, but it can also be a disappointment for lovers of large working dogs or mastiffs who're expecting a companion for long bike rides, country jogs, or other highendurance, high-energy canine activities. Probably the best way to exercise your Bernese Mountain Dog is simply to take long walks (or even extremely slow, light jogs) with it around your city or through a local park. The Bernese Mountain Dog will enjoy your close company and loyalty, while at the same time enjoying the opportunity to get outside and exercise. While indoors, you might also exercise your Bernese Mountain Dog with some light fetching activities or some tug-of-war games. Although the Bernese Mountain Dog can't keep up with these activities for as long as some other breeds (and as long as you don't expect as much interest in the tug-of-war games as a more aggressive, territorial breed might show), they'll again be grateful for the company and bonding with the family that the activities create. For the Bernese Mountain Dog, loyalty is everything--expending energy is only a secondary goal. So keep this in mind when exercising your dog.
Training

The Bernese Mountain Dog lives for a fairly short period of time, compared to many dog breeds-even when compared to its fellow large working dogs, typically among the more short-lived of dogs. This, plus the unusually late maturity of the Bernese Mountain Dog, creates a few problems for the dedicated trainer to solve. First of all, the Bernese Mountain Dog is slow to mature physically. When coupled with the genetic hip problems found in the breed, this can mean that the Bernese Mountain Dog will be at risk of injury while learning even simple jumps, rolls, or other physical tricks. It's important to avoid such tricks until your dog is at least two years old, so that an early-life injury doesn't permanently hamper the growth and abilities of your Bernese Mountain Dog.

Another problem is that the Bernese Mountain Dog is slow to mature mentally. According to an old Swiss herding saying, "Three years a young dog, three years a good dog, and three years an old dog"--meaning that the Bernese Mountain Dog is slow to mature and enjoys only a short period of loyalty and obedience before lapsing into sickness and old age. (The situation is even worse now that increased incidences of cancer have lowered the average age of the Bernese Mountain Dog to around seven years--at least the Swiss herders had three good years out of nine, rather than three out of seven!) The Bernese Mountain dog's low level of early maturity prevents you from training the dogs too rigorously during their puppy years--usually the most productive years for training, in that the dogs don't have any bad habits to "unlearn" before they can learn good behavior. Add to all of this the Bernese Mountain Dog's lack of enthusiasm and energy for long periods of activity and you begin to grasp the overall scope of the problem. The key to training a Bernese Mountain Dog, then, is to train them when they're slightly older than the average dog--starting heavy training at around two years is best--and to train them for short bursts every day rather than marathon obedience sessions, focusing on positive rewards whenever possible and varying activities so as to keep training interesting. If followed consistently without overtaxing (or endangering) your Bernese Mountain Dog, you can get your "three years a good dog" without too much trouble--and the overall health you've helped to preserve in your dog may give you your "three years an old dog" as well, or even more.

Bichon Frises
Life Span:12-15 years depending on its physical condition and health with some living as long as 21 years of age Litter Size:1 to 6 puppies, ranging with 5 as an average Group:The Bichon Frise belongs to the Non-Sporting Group, and has a 28th ranking in the AKC families. This is the most diverse of all the AKC groups, used as an occasional catch-all for breeds that do not have an actual function other than pet, and who defy other categories. Another name for the Non-Sporting Group is the Companion Group as that is what the majority of these breeds have been bred for. Each breed is evaluated by its own merits when shown or exhibited. Recognized By:CKC, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The color of the Bichon Frise is white, with some bloodlines having cream or patches of cream shadings in the hair. Hair Length:Medium Size:Toy/Small

Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:9 to 12 inches tall at the withers, Male Weight: 7 to 12 pounds Female Height:9 to 11 inches tall at the withers. Female Weight: 7 to 12 pounds Living Area:Apartment or small living establishments are for small dogs, large low-level energy dogs, or pet owners who can offer on a routine schedule a vigorous plan of exercise to their pet and themselves. And the Bichon Frise is a breed that should not live outdoors due to its gentle nature and small size--not needing a lot of space to move around, the Bichon does well living in an apartment or small trailer. Their well-being is highly important, more important than their living conditions, as they are "people orientated." They require moderate cold and hot temperatures, not being able to be too color or too hot.
Description

A charming white powerful that loves children, the Bichon Frise is a small dog with loosely curled double-coated hair that is 3-4 inches long, and is virtually less hypoallergenic than other breeds. With a moderate muzzle that is not sharp or pointed, its bite is one of scissor, and has beautiful quizzical eyes that are dark and intelligent with well-covered hanging ears. The breed has a long neck and a well-developed chest, with a cute little plumed tail curled over its back. The Bichon has a powder-buff appearance that is not only striking but derives from its double coat. This special coat has a double purpose, which is a soft and dense coat on the top with a coarser coat, with a "poodle" curly look until it is groomed. The double coat causes the fur to stand up, springing back when it is patted or touched. With a build that is longer than tall, the breeds quickly starts out with an effortless trot that is beautiful to behold-which was how it began in the show rings and as performers in their early development days. With no gross or incapacitating exaggerations, there is no inherent reason for any lack of balance or even unsound movements. If this is seen, the puppy has something wrong with it, and should not be purchased. In the 1980s, the Bichon Frise was part of the "Yuppie Puppies" choice of the majority population, and everyone just HAD to have one. Due to this, over-breeding occurred with less experienced breeders or back-yard breeders who paid no attention to the higher quality traits, mingling all levels of the Bichon genetic lines. When purchasing ones, make sure you get personal references on the parents and previous litters out of that line before choosing.
Coat Description

The Bichon Frise has a double coat, consisting of a curly outer coat with loose hair and a soft, silky undercoat. This double coat keeps the dog warm in the winter and cool in the summer. But good grooming is required once shedding begins, as the undercoat needs to be removed once the

weather begins to warm up or excessive shedding will leave piles of hair throughout the home. Many people, instead of grooming their dog or having them professionally done, will shave the hair off completely in order to keep the dog cool in the summer. But what they do not know is that the hair being removed is what cools down the dog's body. Once this protective layer of hair is gone, the dog will become more susceptible to the sun, wind, and bugs. Shedding treatments, such as Furminator, help keep the extra undercoat cleaned out, so hair will not get all over the furniture or routine grooming--which is always better as it becomes bonding time for the owner and the dog.
History

The Bichon Frise was developed in the Mediterranean area, when a Barbet (a large water spaniel breed) was crossed with small white lapdogs. The Barbet name was later developed to "Barbichon cam," which was later shortened to "Bichon." Similar breeds that were developed from the Barbet were the Poodle (also called the Caniche) and the Maltese. Even though they are now separate breeds, they have a common ancestry that gives them certain similar similarities. The group of dogs known as the Barbichon developed into four breed lines: Bichon Bolognese, Bichon Havanese, Bichon Maltese, and the Bichon Tenerife. The Bichon Frise of today has its ancestry in the Bichon Tenerife breed line, which found its way to the Mediterranean area, onto the Canary Islands or rather, "the Island of Tenerife." Called the Dog of Love, sailors used to bring these little puppies into the area for the women they admired and sought favors with. Eventually, the Bichon's popularity developed under Henry III. Carrying his little white Bichon around in court, other court individuals did as the king did. The term "bichonner" became one with the beautiful, beribboned, and pampered little Bichon Frise from then on. As human nature does with mankind's whims and whistles, by the end of the 1800s, the cute little court favored cuddly pet was out on the streets. The little white dogs learned how to earn their keep by doing tricks in the circuses or fairs. The characteristics of the pampered darling of the court demonstrated to the world that its charm, cunning ability, and physical sturdiness brought the little dog to where he is now.
Temperament

The temperament of the Bichon Frise is sweet, perky, bouncy, active, and very playful with sporadic bursts of energy that leads them into many unknown adventures--usually beyond the fenced in yard or when they get loose from the leash, even though they are considered to be gentle creatures. High on the playfulness range, along with friendliness toward strangers, watchdog ability, and grooming requirements-anyone who purchases the Bichon will be a powder-puff challenge, to say the least! They are one of the very few smaller dogs that get along well with children of all ages in addition to adults, and are completely hypoallergenic for those with allergies. This is a favorite breed for those desiring a "happy-go-lucky" pet with an attitude toward the world, even to

strangers, pets, other dogs, and the garbage man or mailman! A sensitive dog whose feelings get hurt easily, it is the breed who's favorite past time is to cuddle up in someone's lap, especially someone who appreciates the Bichon's sensitivity, responsiveness, and affectionate behaviors. An independent dog, the Bichon Frise bond well with adults and children and is also very highly intelligent, affectionate, charming, and self-assured. One of the few smaller breeds that is not a "yapper," even though it barks a lot due to its watchdog ability, and loves all human company. It can be shown either trimmed as a poodle or longhaired with clippings at the feet and muzzle, with requiring trimming for a rounded appearance. Easy to train and used as watchdogs, performing tricks, extremely sociable with everyone and everything-this competitive and obedient breed is a joy to have around. The only thing that may provide difficulty is its housebreaking, which has been known to occur with most smaller breeds as they need to toilet more often and are harder to watch in the home. And as usual, this has a lot to do with the trainer or owner and how they train. Absolutely all dogs and puppies can be trained, but not all trainers and owners can train properly.
Health Problems

The major concern for the Bichon Frise is the patellar luxation, or when the kneecap is out of place. This will cause the dog to cause lameness, refuse to bear weight, or the knee may become locked. It can be seen when the dog is around six months of age, or when older if the condition is mild. As a result of the patellar luxation, other degenerative joint changes will occur, such as osteoarthritis. The way to find out if a dog has this disease is to have the dog physical examined by a veterinarian, along with having a palpation done. Radiographs can be done to see if any further degenerative joint changes are going on. Treatments vary on the severity of the disease. Minor diseases for the Bichon are tooth loss and Cataracts, with suggested tests for knees and eyes. Allergies, eye conditions, and Ear infections are also prone to the Bichon, with a needed focus on dental care.
Grooming

A good rule of thumb is that the little white coat of the Bichon Frise needs routine brushing and combing every other day, along with scissoring and trimming once every other day. The Bichon does not shed, but the loose hairs have a tendency to become entangled in the coat, which become matted. This is a very big reason this breed should not be an outdoor dog. Grooming requirements are based on coat type and the size of the dog. This refers to the fact a small or tiny dog with a lot of hair, such as a long-haired Chihuahua, would rank lower than a large dog with a lot of hair. Dogs that are shown in the rank will require much more care and grooming than what is generally suggested. Either way, the care of the coat is an important consideration before purchasing a dog of any breed. If daily or weekly brushing is not a favorite past-time, then getting a long-haired dog that sheds is not a smart thing to do. Bathing should be done on all breeds, and breeds with long hair need more attention than breeds

with short hair along with frequent brushings. The Bishon would need more frequent bathing as compared to a shorthaired dog, such as once a week or once a month-depending on the lifestyle of the Bichon. If the dog leads a sedimentary life and doesn't get out much, then it probably will not get too dirty. Bathing will remove oil and debris from the coat of the dog, which will cause matting. Ear cleaning and nail clippings should be done during this time as many small or toy breeds suffer from tooth loss or nail issues.
Exercise

Exercising a dog is the single most important thing in their dog, other than feeding/watering them. There is no dog that will not require some form of exercise, whether it is small, large, or huge breed. Also, each breed will require a different level of exercise than another breed. Also, age has a lot to do with it, as puppies should only be exercised until they become tired, and older dogs simply require less exercise. The problem is that all dogs require more exercise than what their owners are willing to offer them. A dog that requires average exercise could do with more, but usually have to do with less-simply because of an owner not willing to spend the time. A low exercise level is recommended for the Bichon, because they exercise themselves throughout the day with their bouncy personality and high energy level anyway. Because the breed is small, and not much space is required, walks taken outdoors, family play in the yard are high priorities, or even playing at the park will suffice. This is not the breed to take out hunting all day, or hiking in the mountains.
Training

The Bichon Frise is an easy dog to train, as it is quick and intelligent. A naturally obedient breed, they have a history of being easily trained as a star performer, doing tricks, therapy work, and agility shows. This breed requires gentle and firm training, as they are so gentle and sensitive that any harsh training or negative corrections will have an opposite effect on the puppy or adult dog. But all trainers/owners will eventually need a collar and leash to begin the training-the many types available will depend on the person doing the training, as each one is a matter of personal preference and what the dog needs. Some of the training collar tools that are acceptable for the Bichon training, as chain or nylon chokers will matt and tangle in their hair, are the buckle collars, leather-training collars, or even the reversed pinch collars. Each one will do well for training a Bichon Frise. The head collar is becoming very popular as a training tool for most dogs in training classes. It looks like a horse halter, going around the dog's face with a leash attachment under the muzzle. At first, the dog will fight the halter type collar, but once it gets used it-those who have used it say it works wonders and they have more control over the dog. Training the Bichon works well with food treats along with the leash and collar. As each dog is different, the most important thing is that a well-trained dog will become a better companion along with way. Positive reinforcement and gentle training are the choice training of the day, with kindness, persistence, and patience. Oh yes, and lots of love.

Biewer Terriers
Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size:2 - 5 Group: Recognized By:APRI, ACR Color:Blue, black and white on body. On head, combinations of blue/black, white, gold/tan; blue/black, gold/tan; gold/tan, white Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:6-9 inches (15-23 cm) Male Weight:5-7 pounds (2-3 kg) Female Height:4-7 inches (10-18 cm) Female Weight:4-6 pounds (2-3 kg) Living Area:This breed can live in apartments and do not require a yard, if it is sufficiently exercised.
Description

The Biewer Terrier has also been called the Biewer Yorkshire Terrier a la Pom Pon, the Biewer Yorkie and the Biewer. An elegant longhaired, tri-colored toy terrier, the Biewer Terrier's most luxurious feature is its coat, which is parted down the middle, and hangs straight and evenly on both sides of the dog. Its back is level, with height at its shoulders equal to the height of the rump. The Biewer Terrier's body length can be a bit longer than its height, even though the dog's outline has a square appearance. Sporting a slightly rounded head, the Biewer Terrier's muzzle is about one-third the length of the head. Its nose is completely black and its round- or almond-shaped eyes are medium sized. This dog's cute, furry little ears are V-shaped and sit upright (the tips of the ears should be shaved). With a fine- to medium-boned body, the Biewer Terrier's chest comes to the elbows and its rib cage is moderately sprung. Its front legs must be straight, muscular and covered with hair, and its hind legs are straight when viewed from behind. Finishing off the look is a tail that is carried high over the body, giving it a teacup handle look, and covered with a long flowing plume.

Coat Description

One of the most distinguishing characteristics of the Biewer Terrier is its long, flowing coat that has a soft, silky texture. Its hair is straight, there's no undercoat, and it should hang at least threequarters to the ground. On top of its head, you'll often see a single ponytail or a topknot. The coloring on a Biewer Terrier's head can either be blue/black, white, gold/tan; blue/black, gold/tan; or gold/tan, white. On its back, the hair is blue or black and white. On the Biewer Terrier's chest, stomach, legs and on the tip of the tail, the hair is white. There is no preferred frequency or pattern when it comes to color.
History

The first Biewer Terrier was the product of the Yorkshire Terrier, born in Germany on January 20, 1984 to Werner and Gertrud Biewer. The couple had been breeding Yorkshire Terriers for 20 years, but this was the first blue, white and gold pup that was born to them. They named the pup Schneeflocken von Friedheck, and began to investigate what caused this unique coloring. The Biewer's believed that one of their Yorkshire Terriers carried a recessive piebald gene, which would explain the unusual coloring. Over the course of several years, the Biewer's bred for the piebald gene, and the result was the Biewer Terrier, a blue, white and gold dog. In 1988, the Biewers showed these dogs as "black and white Yorkies" and the breed gained popularity. The breed came to America in 2003, and the Biewer Terrier Club of American was established in 2007. Since it is such a new breed, it has not been recognized by the American Kennel Club, but the Biewer Terrier is recognized by the American Rare Breen Association.
Temperament

It's no wonder that the Biewer Terrier is quickly gaining popularity. It boasts a lighthearted, frisky, child-like attitude, which makes it a great fit for families of any size. A loyal and fast friend to all it considers to be a part of its family, the Biewer Terrier is confident, happy, fun loving and even tempered. The Biewer loves to play with children and other animals, and it will bond closely with its family, making it a wonderful companion and lap dog. Playful and mischievous, it can be pushy - it's a big dog trapped in a small dog's body. You could say that its personality is 10 times the size of its body! Even though it looks small and fragile, looks can be deceiving. The Biewer is fearless and will stand up to dogs much larger than itself. You'll notice how this breed likes to be the center of attention, so expect your dog to do whatever it takes to get your attention. Sturdy, alert and active, the Biewer Terrier is a good watchdog - its bark is shrill and will let you know of any strangers approaching the homestead. If you have an apartment, make sure the walls are thick, otherwise you may have some upset neighbors on your hands.
Health Problems

As a breed, the Biewer Terrier is generally healthy, but it is susceptible to a few issues. These problems include eye irritations, tracheal collapse, premature dental disease and patellar luxation. Paralysis in the hindquarters caused by herniated disks and other problems of the spine have been noted in some puppies. As well, the Biewer is prone to bronchitis and early tooth decay, it

has a poor tolerance of anesthetic and its digestion can be finicky. You'll need to feed your Biewer Terrier dry food to ensure that its teeth stay strong. Since this breed has a problem with its teeth, it's a good idea to take your Biewer to the vet for proper teeth cleaning. This keeps the teeth from falling out and prevents infections.
Grooming

The Biewer Terrier may have long hair, but it is easy to care for. As it is a single-coated breed, this dog doesn't have an undercoat that needs to be brushed. Just because its coat is similar to human hair, you shouldn't use the same shampoo and conditioner you use on your own hair. Because dogs have a different ph than humans, it can cause dry, itchy, flaking skin. Make sure to rinse the hair after shampooing and conditioning, and brush your Biewer by spraying with light mixture of conditioner and water first - never brush a Biewer Terrier when it is completely dry, as it will damage the coat. To keep the coat in top condition, your Biewer needs a weekly bath. In between, use bath wipes or a damp cloth to keep your dog's underside as clean as possible. If you are using a dryer after a bath, keep the heat setting on low, as a Biewer's skin is delicate. Use a fine tooth comb with long teeth when brushing your dog out. Don't let tangles and mats accumulate, as they can be painful to remove. You may choose to trim your Biewer's hair. You can trim the hair all over its body, but the only places that need special attention are around its ears, its rear end and its foot pads. Finally, tooth brushing and ear cleaning should be a part of your grooming routine.
Exercise

Like any kind of breed, the Biewer Terrier needs exercise. Don't let its small size fool you - the Biewer needs to release its energy, whether it lives in an apartment or a house. To combat laziness and weight problems, be sure to take your dog for a daily walk. Most of the time, this frisky little dog will take care of exercise all on its own, but it still needs a daily walk to supplement its activity. An added benefit of exercise is that it is less likely to display behavioral problems. You'll know that your Biewer Terrier isn't getting enough exercise if it is racing around your house. If that's the case, you'd better start taking your pooch out for longer or more frequent walks. When walking your Biewer, be sure that it is always at your heel beside or behind you. You need to be the leader, even on something as simple as a walk. If you have a yard or an off-leash dog-park near you, Biewer Terriers will enjoy some free running time on its own.
Training

Even though this breed is small and cute, Biewers are still terriers, which make them willful and high strung. It is an intelligent dog, so it won't have problems understanding what you want it to do, but keep in mind that the Biewer Terrier will learn lessons at its own pace. As soon as it figures out that tricks will get it attention, your dog will be eager to learn. Use positive reinforcement, such as praise and treats, to train, as harsh methods often cause the opposite reaction.

It is important that you become the master and pack leader of the Biewer Terrier. If it doesn't have a pack leader, this dog will become suspicious of strangers and aggressive to dogs and small animals. If this dog takes charge, it will announce its leadership by yapping constantly - it's the Biewer's way of telling you what it wants you to do. The Biewer's need for attention can cause jealous behaviors, and it can snap if it is surprised, frightened or over-teased. If you are not instinctually meeting the Biewer Terrier's needs, it can become over-protective and neurotic. Don't let your dog's small size sway you - it will take over your house. If you establish your role as pack leader, your Biewer will be easier to train, as long as it works within proper boundaries. As well, it is excellent with children, as long as it knows its place within the pack's dynamics. The Biewer can be difficult to housebreak, but this breed makes a great watchdog.

Black and Tan Coonhounds

Life Span:10 - 12 years. Litter Size:7- 9 puppies. Group:Terrier , hound, etc Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The Black and Tan Coonhound's coat comes in Black and tan only. Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:25 to 27 inches; Male Weight:50 to 75 lbs Female Height:23 to 25 inches. Female Weight:50 to 75 lbs Living Area:The Black and Tan Coonhound dogs and puppies are not well suited to city living because of the substantial amount of exercise required and a fenced yard. It is inclined to follows it's nose, becoming completly focused on scent only. This animal will dig, climb or do what ever it is necessary to follow it's prey. Once the Coonhound is on it's own it can be really hard for it's owner to get it back. Because it's attention is totally dedicated to

scent it becomes deaf to blind to anything else, being easly put at risk of being struck by a car, etc.
Description

The Black and Tan Coonhound is classified as a working dog. Different from most breeds, the Black and Tan Coonhound hunts by scent only. Commonly used to run coons up trees, they will also chase their prey down trails. Been highly resistant to the most rigorous days of winter and also capable of withstanding high summer temperatures, it makes a great companion for the die hard outdoorsman. It will claim any kind of enviroment as it's own, no matter how rocky, hilly or bushy it might be. As most of the large hunting breeds, the Coonhound may be trained to hunt larger prey as well. The Coonhound's strengh and presence can be clearly noticed with the animal at work. It's powerful muscles and consistant pace harmonize beautifully, being a very pleasant sight to see.
Coat Description

The coat is short and dense. Shedding might be a problem. Although the Coonhound is not hard to groom, brushing it's coat often will removed the loose hair preventing hair on your furniture. The proper food will keep the dog's coat healthy and shinny. For the best diet for you Black and Tan Coonhound, consult a veterinarian or an experienced breeder.
History

The Black and Tan Coonhound is an American breed and is a dog of substantial size. And bred from strains of the Bloodhound and black and tan Foxhound brought to this country by english settlers. It's purpose was to hunt racoons, opossums and bears. It's origins can be dated back to the 1700's. They were bred to have the scenting abilities of the Bloodhound but the ability to travel at at faster pace and they were also suited to night hunting. They are also built for endurance and are able to travel across rugged, mountainous regions. In fact, the breed was developed by the people who lived in the Appalachian, Blue Ridge, Ozark and Smoky mountains. When the prey is the dogs bay, alerting the hunter, who then arrives and shoots the animal. The Black and Tan Coonhound was selectively bred for their color - there are many other types of coonhounds including Blue Tick Coonhounds, Redbone Coonhounds, English Coonhounds, Plott hounds and Treeing Walkers. The Black and Tan Coonhound was first Registered by the AKC (American Kennel Club) in 1945.
Temperament

There is not much you can do to change the Coonhound's temperament, pretty consistant in how it interacts with people, this breed is pretty easy going and friendly. As any other hound, scent is what makes this animal move. In order to get the best that this breed has to offer, it is important for this dog to be around other hounds, preferable older and experienced dogs.

Being of great disposition, the Coonhound is a dog very safe to have around. An agressive behavior is not a normal characteristic for this breed. It is mostly tolerant, independent, gentle, stubborn and sensitive. Being very sociable, it enjoys the company of other dogs and humans. Because of it's stamina, the Coonhound can be unfit as a pet unless greats amount of exercise and enough space to roam. Restricting this animal will cause serious behavior problems.
Health Problems

Most common Health Problems for this breed are in relation to the Bones, Joints, Muscles, Nerves, Ears, Eyes, Teeth and the Mouth. Other, more serious, issues can relate to the Digestive System, Heart & Respiratory Systems, Immune & Blood Systems, Reproduction and Urinary Systems. Potential Health problems of the Black and Tan Coonhound can include:
hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia (abnormal development of joints referred to as CHD - Canine Hip and Elbow Dysplasia)

Entropion (the inversion, or turning inward, of the border of the eyelid against the eyeball) Diseases in dogs may occur due to trauma, infection, immune system and genetics. As any other dog the Black and Tan Coonhound will need frequent vet visits. Because it's world is the outdoors, up-to-date vaccination for rabies is necessary in case of an encounter with a infected raccon or opossum or even other dogs. Proper medication for ticks and mosquitos also should be used. The outdoors might bring Allergies even for dogs, luckly there is an array of medications available for dogs. Consult your vet for more information. Teeth cleaning is commonly overlooked in outside dogs, but keeping their teeth and gums healthy will actually extend the life of you animal and will grant you many extra years of enjoyment with this breed. If your dog will not be used for Breeding it is very important to spay or neuter you dog. It will prevent unwanted pregnancies of females, roaming and in many cases prevent certain types of cancer. Because of it's long ears this breed, as other hound relatives may suffer from ears mite and infections. A serious infection may lead into Deafness of the animal. Hounds many also suffer from Cataracts as well, which can be treated in our days. Grooming

An occasional brushing is all that takes. However, regular attention should be paid to the ears and eyes to keep them healthy.

Exercise

It requires a substantial amount of exercise and a fenced yard. There are some breeds in this group who make a distinctive ' baying ' sound - invaluable information should be considering puppies Behavior will be greatly affected if the animal is not provided with distraction.
Training

Coonhounds have a reputation for being difficult to train. However, training a coonhound is not hard as some think, if you go about it the right way. Most coonhounds are very food oriented and will do almost anything for a treat. Due to their affectionate, social personality, if you don't train your hound you will have created a monster(jumping up or putting their noses into inappropriate places). They can become easly distracted as training is taking place. Any different scent will get the off track and getting them back into the mood can take sometime. Patience is a must in training this breed, any form of physical punishment to force them into learning will not work and only confuse the animal because it will not know what is doing wrong. This breed is for the experienced owner. Many of these dogs become a problem for lack of proper exercise and training. A lot of them are found in dog pounds.

Choosing the right puppy, Puppy Training, Puppy Care and Puppy Behavior, Growth & Development. The following considerations should always be taken into account when choosingBlack and Tan Coonhound puppies:
Budget - Purchasing, training, equipment, medication and feeding costs of the breed Convenience and Grooming time e.g. long or short hair

Personal situation - time available and medical conditions such as allergies, asthma or back pain. Exercising requirements for the Black and Tan Coonhound breed

 Living Conditions for the breed - suitability for puppies

Family - child suitability Children and Puppies! It seems like many times parents, grandparents and other relatives or friends in order to please a child will give them a puppy. There might be a great problem in giving a child a Black and Tan Coonhound puppy. Larger breeds usually grow very fast and in no time that cute small puppy will be bigger, much bigger than your 8 year old. The size of puppies are naturally considerably smaller and the full grown size of the animal can easily be forgotten when confronted with cute puppies! The slogan " A dog isn't just for Christmas - it's for life!" was necessitated by well meaning people buying puppies at the Christmas, unaware of the puppies growth rate. The pictures provided make it extremely clear exactly how small puppies will develop and whether it will suit the life and living conditions of the family. Age comparison between the Black and Tan Coonhound Dog Breed and a Human Age comparisons between dogs and humans are always a matter of debate - we hope that the following information clarifies the situation. After the first year of life, a dog is equivalent to sixteen human years. After two years, they are equivalent to a 24 year old, at three years a 30 year old, and each year after, add 5 human years to determine a dog's age. Black Russian Terriers Life Span:10 or 15 years Litter Size:6 and 12 puppies. Group:Terrier

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:The acceptable colors are black or black with few grey hairs. However, the grey hairs should be evenly dispersed and not found in patches anywhere in the coat. Hair Length:Long Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:25-29 inches

Male Weight:80-143 pounds Female Height:25-28 inches Female Weight:80-143 pounds Living Area:The Black Russian Terrier is a dog that forms very strong bonds with its owner. It needs to have close human contact to be happy and feel loved. This is not the type of dog that will do well living in a kennel environment. The yard size and house size are not necessarily that important because the Black Russian Terrier is a relatively inactive indoor dog. They are most likely to follow the owner around the yard and remain in very close proximity to them. If the Black Russian Terrier is left outside it will generally wait by the door to be let back in the home to be with the owner. If people are interested in having a large dog in an apartment environment this is an excellent choice. They are quite content to be inside with their owners and families. However, if the dog does live in a small living space it is important for the owner to make the efforts to take the dog for walks and other exercise.
Description

The Black Russian Terrier is a larger than mid-size dog with a robust and muscular stature. They are also known to have a strong nervous system. They are very powerful dogs with extremely well developed muscles. In accordance with this the shoulders should be large and muscular with blades that are broad and sloping. The head should be long, strong, and block shaped with a large skull. The nose should be large and black in color with full pigmentation. The ears are rather small in size and triangular in shape and are set quite high. The ears should not be cropped. The jaws should be large and powerful and the mouth meaty. Further to this, the lips should be full and rounded and black at the ridges with teeth that meet in a scissors bite. The neck should be muscular, thick, and powerful. It is also important that the length of the body is in direct proportion to the height at the withers. This gives the dog a square look. The topline of the dog should appear to be level but not flat or straight. The legs should be parallel to each other and covered in about 2-4 inches of hair. The feet are large and bear-like and should be compact and rounded in shape. The feet are also fully covered in hair and have large black pads. The black pads are to be thick and firm. The tail is to be cropped and set high. The hindquarters are well defined and muscular with a high degree of angulation. They should be slightly farther apart than the forelegs. The hocks are large and built for spring and drive. The Black Russian Terrier has a very well coordinated, strong, and powerful gait. Despite their large size and muscular stature they appear to be very light on their feet. They are said to walk as if they have a spring in their step.
Coat Description

The Black Russian Terrier has a double weatherproof coat. The outer coat is hard, wiry, and tight. The close-lying wavy coat is about 1.5-4 inches long. The Black Russian Terrier also

grows eyebrows and a beard. The upper neck and withers suggest a mane. The undercoat of the Black Russian Terrier is tight and very well developed while also being thick and soft.
History

The Black Russian Terrier was initially bred by the Former Russian Red Army. They used the army controlled kennel Red Star. The breeders for the Black Russian Terrier were the Giant Schnauzer, Rottweiler, Airedale breeds, and the Russian Water Dog. However, in total about 17 breeds were used in the creation of the Black Russian Terrier using only the finest dogs. The Russian Red Army needed a dog that could withstand different weather conditions as well as be able to work independently. They needed to breed a dog that could be used for their very specific tasks. Some of these specific tasks were to guard military installations, border troops, prison camps, penal colonies, and police forces. This upbringing is what contributes to their suspicious and dominant nature. It is also what makes them very protective of their owners and makes them excellent watchdogs.
Temperament

The Black Russian Terrier was originally bred as an army dog and therefore it is in its nature to be a watchdog. They are extremely brave and observant without the need for aggression. They respond quickly to protect their owners and home. They rarely bark unless they feel that it is necessary. They do have a dominant personality and therefore should be treated firmly and lovingly in order to guide them in the right direction. Due to their high intelligence they learn quickly and become very loyal pets. This loyalty combined with their suspicious nature make it very important for the dog to be socialized properly. They are not well handled by people outside the family if they are not socialized at a young age. Black Russian Terrier puppies are very lovable, sensitive, and quick to learn. They are late bloomers and do take a while to fully mature. It is said that they take about two years to fully mature. While they are developing they are very inquisitive and will get into everything. Black Russian Terrier puppies are very good with children and this trait does not go away as they mature into adulthood. It is suggested that the owners should be aware that because they do take a while to mature that they are patience and firm in their training. Also, it is suggested that perhaps the Black Russian Terrier is not a dog for the first time owner. Both the male and female Black Russian Terriers are excellent with children although the females are more inclined to actually play with the children. They are very even tempered and will tolerate just about anything from their family. They desire close human contact and make excellent family dogs. The Black Russian Terrier does not typically have troubles getting along with other animals. However, they are a dominant dog and therefore should not live in a household with another large dominant dog. Despite this fact it is found that they will try to avoid fighting with other dogs. It is suggested that they live more comfortably with smaller dogs, cats, rabbits, horses, and other non-dominant animals. They will always prefer animals that are considered part of their own household.

Health Problems hip dysplasia : This is a hereditary joint problem that can cause pain and crippling. otitis externa : Is known as inflammation of the outer ear canal.

elbow dysplasia : Is an elbow abnormality related to the joint cartilage.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy : Is the degeneration of the retina that occurs bilaterally. It can cause progressive vision loss and eventually result in blindness. Grooming

The Black Russian Terrier does have some important grooming needs due to its long and thick coat. The best way to keep the coat in good condition is to brush and comb it regularly. However, it is essential when brushing the coat that it is brushed directly from the skin. The coat should be parted and the uncombed hair held down with your free hand to separate it from the hair that is being brushed. In addition, it is also very important to use a coat conditioner as well. This can be sprayed lightly onto the coat before brushing. It allows for easier brushing, removes tangles, adds shine, and alleviates dryness. This routine should be done about twice a week. It is essential that any hair is trimmed and removed from the ear ducts in order to help prevent Otitis. Furthermore, due to the fact that the paws are fully covered in hair, the hair under the paw can mat easily and therefore it is important for that hair to be trimmed on a regular basis. The Black Russian Terrier coat sheds very little when brushed regularly. However, in addition to the regular brushing done at home, it is recommended that they receive professional grooming about every six weeks. This will help to maintain a healthy coat. This regular professional grooming will also help to keep shedding at a minimum. Stripping of the coat is usually not necessary unless the coat appears to be softer than normal. The Black Russian Terrier should also receive proper eye cleaning. The eyes need to be cleaned on a daily basis in order to prevent infections. Regular bathing of the Black Russian Terrier is important as well. The dog should be bathed about once a month. It is important not to bathe the dog too often or it will cause dryness and irritation to the skin. The dog should be bathed using a specialty dog shampoo that is diluted. Human shampoo or liquid soap can be harmful to the dog's skin condition. It is also essential to ensure that the soap is rinsed thoroughly because soap residue left on the skin can cause irritation. The Black Russian Terrier should not be brushed until it is fully dry due to the wiry and thick nature of its coat. Given the size of the dog, bathing at home can be difficult and so it would be acceptable for them to receive their bath at the dog groomer's when it goes for its professional upkeep.

Exercise

Black Russian Terriers love to go for long walks. They love to be entertained and to romp and play. The great thing about the Black Russian Terrier is also that they love the water and the snow. They will be very content running and rolling around in the snow during winter months and splashing in the water during the spring and summer months. This makes them excellent pets for people who live in locations where there is climate change. They are a large dog and therefore exercise is important. Further to this, because they are often very inactive indoor dogs it is important for them to obtain their exercise in another manner. It is also important for the Black Russian Terrier to receive exercise because they are prone to joint problems. Exercise may alleviate some of the joint stiffness. Due to their high level of intelligence and how they excel in obedience combined with their need for consistent training, combining exercise and training is an excellent way for Black Russian Terriers to obtain their necessary level of activity.
Training

The Black Russian Terrier needs to have training from the time it is a puppy due to its suspicious and dominant nature. Initially it is very important to have them socialized around people and other animals. They should be frequently introduced to people out in public of every sex, size, and ethnicity. This will help to decrease their suspiciousness and aloofness of strangers in public. The same principle applies to other animals. However, they can remain dominant in nature around larger dominant dogs. The Black Russian Terrier is a highly intelligent and focused dog and will train easily to house breaking and to be well mannered on a leash. They are excellent around children and love human contact, so there are typically no problems training them to be around children or to behave in the house. They are usually very inactive indoor dogs. They are most responsive to firm but positive reinforcement training. Due to their highly intelligent nature, they excel in obedience type training. Positive reinforcement training can consist of clicker training or food reinforcement training. It is important to establish proper dominance between dog and owner early on because of their large size. The Black Russian Terrier is just too large a dog to not have proper and consistent training. Because they are highly intelligent they make excellent obedience dogs.

Bloodhounds
Life Span:10 - 12 years Litter Size: 8 - 10 however some have had up to 15 in one litter Group:Hounds, Hound Group, Scenthound Breeds Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

Color:black and tan, liver and tan, or red. The darker colors are sometimes interspersed with lighter or badger-colored hair and some times flecked or roaned with white. White may also be found on the chest, feet and tip of stern. Hair Length:Short Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:25-27 inches (63-69cm) Male Weight:90-110 pounds (41-50kg) Female Height:23-25 inches (58-63cm) Female Weight:80-100 pounds (36-45kg) Living Area:While they can handle living in an apartment (they love being couch potatoes), it is best that they have a large yard to play in. They require a great deal of exercise, and play time. Leash walking is really your only option unless you are prepared to chase the dog once he has caught the scent of something that interests him. Don't over walk or run a young Hound or it will cause joint problems later. This dog will not do well being chained up all day.
Description

An interesting note about Blood hounds: the actual definition is one who follows up an enemy with tenacity. Bloodhounds were used for tracking wounded game by the blood spilt. Eventually they were deployed for tracking criminals and slaves who had made their escape, and were hunters of blood, not hunters by blood. The most noted breeds are the African, Cuban, and English. The Bloodhound is the only animal whose evidence is admissible in an American court of law. The Bloody's head is rather narrow in proportion to its length, and long in proportion to the body. It tapers slightly from the temples to muzzle end. If you look at this dog from the front and from above, it looks likes it's flattened at the sides. When looking at the profile, you will notice the upper outline of the skull is nearly on the same plane as the foreface. From the end of the nose to the stop midway between the eyes, the distance is usually not less than that from the stop to the back of the peak. Entire length of the head should be 12 inches (or more) for dogs, 11 inches (or more) for bitches. The Blood Hound's skull is long and narrow, with a pronounced occipital peak. Because they have such deep-set eyes, their brows are not prominent. However, it may look like they are. Their foreface is an even width, long and deep and when seen in profile is square.

Blood Hound eyes are deeply sunk in the orbits, and the lids are diamond shaped. Heavy flews drag the lower lids down and cause eversion. The eyes are the same general color as the animal, varying from deep hazel to yellow. The hazel color is preferred but it's not often seen in liverand-tan hounds. The Hound ears are thin and soft to the touch, extremely long, low set, and fall in graceful folds, with the lower parts curling inward and backward. A scissors bite is preferred for show and breed standard, but a level bite is accepted.
Coat Description

The Bloodhounds close-lying hair is short, dense, quite harsh and weatherproof. On the head and ears, the hair is very short and soft to the touch. The underside of the tail has hair a little longer and coarser. For black and black and tan dogs the amount of black varies, depending on whether it's a mantle or a saddle. If it's a mantle, the black is predominant and the fawn (tan) is only found on the muzzle, the cheeks, above the eyes, on the forechest, on the limbs and the anal region. A dog with a saddle has a greater expanse of tan because the black is more or less limited to the dorsal region. For the bicolored liver and tan Bloodhound the same positioning of colored zones is found. The colors are not always clearly stated nor distinctly defined. In the darker areas, you will find them interspersed with lighter or badger hairs. For the unicolored red, the red can vary from light red to dark red. A little white on the forechest, on the toes and at the tip of the tail is sometimes found as well.
History

The Bloodys are one of the oldest hound groups (first bred in AD 1000) whose history can be traced back to the 8th century in Belgium to the monastery of St Huberts. Evidence shows the Monks perfected the breed, not created it. Other scenthound breeds such as the Coonhound, Swiss Jura Hound, the Bavarian Mountain Hound and the Brazilian Fila Brasileiro can trace their origins to the Bloodhound. In Belgium these dogs were called Segusius and were originally used to track wolves, big cats or deer, or to follow the trail of wounded game. When the Normans conquered England in 1066AD they introduced many of their dogs. The St Hubert Hound (black and tan) was one of those brought to England and was called the Bloodhound. The white dogs were called Talbot Hounds. The modern Bloodhound is not the identical dog first developed but is still called the Chien du St Hubert in Belgium. The first Bloodhound seen in the show-ring in England was in 1871. Bloodhounds today are either black and tan or red, but in the Middle Ages they came in other solid colors. The white Talbot Hounds died out as a breed in the 1600s, but its genes live in on dogs like white Boxers and tri-colored Basset Hounds.

Temperament

The Bloodhound is a really loveable dog, mild mannered, and extremely patient. He's an absolute Prince with children, gentle and very affectionate. If you're looking for easy going, this is a good-natured companion - so good-natured they let kids climb all over them. They don't mind, they love all the attention. Despite them being outstanding pets for children, you will need to watch what the kids are up to with your Bloody. Don't let them pester or hurt him, as he will lie there and take it, and that is not good for the dog. You will also need to make sure the children don't take his food or his toys, as he does tend to be possessive about them. This is a very energetic outdoorsy and boisterous youngster (and this often continues into adulthood), who is determined and independent. A Bloodhound needs firm, but gentle training, as they do tend to be willful and stubborn. Some Bloodhounds can be timid. Sensitive and shy, a Bloodhound is devoted to its master and gets along well with people. It can be aggressive with dogs of the same sex. But in general, the Bloodhound loves everyone and some will greet wanted and unwanted visitors happily. Others are a tad more particular about unwanted guests. They are known to protect their turf if no one is home, but out on a trail, they greet anyone. The Bloody gets along with most other dogs and other household pets. They do however have a tendency to howl, snore, and drool a lot. While out on a stroll (and by the way almost 90% of Bloodhounds can not be let off the leash because they trail scents to the end) your Hound may wander off on the trail of an interesting scent. They are able to follow any scent, even human, which is a rare ability in a dog. Apparently they can also follow trails over 100 hours old and will not give up until they get to the end of it, no matter how long that trail may be. The Bloodhound is such a sure tracker that the breed is used worldwide for rescue and criminal searches. One Bloodhound brought about 600 criminal arrests and convictions. Bloodhounds are slow to mature and their puppy brain adolescence lasts until they are 2 years old. They eat everything they can fit in their mouths. So keep a close eye on what they are chewing on. With proper training they become wonderful dogs when they mature. The Bloody needs a kind, patient and firm owner whose experienced with dogs.
Health Problems

Generally a quite hardy breed, the Bloodhound does have some special medical conditions to be aware of:
hip dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness.

Gastric torsion ( Bloat ) - the stomach becomes distended with air, and then while dilated, twists on itself. This interferes with the blood supply to the stomach and other digestive organs, and blocks the

passage of food, leading to worse Bloat.

elbow dysplasia - refers to several conditions that affect the elbow joint: osteochondrosis of the medial humeral condyle, fragmented medial coronoid process, ununited anconeal process, and incongruent elbow.

Keratoconjunctivitis sicca - KCS or "dryeye" is an eye disease caused by abnormal tear production. Prolapsed gland of the third eyelid - " Cherry Eye " occurs when the base of the gland (embedded in the cartilage) flips up and is seen above and behind the border of the third eyelid. The prolapsed gland becomes swollen and inflamed. ectropion - a defect of conformation in which there is a sagging or rolling-out (eversion) of the eyelids. This results in abnormal exposure of the eye, which often leads to irritation.

Entropion - the inward rolling of the eyelid, most commonly the lower lid. This irritates the surface of the eye (the cornea) and may ultimately cause visual impairment.

Exposure keratopathy syndrome - due to a combination of protrusion of the eyeball and an exceptionally large eyelid opening. The result is inadequate blinking, and reduced protection for the eye. Affected dogs experience chronic discomfort and are prone to ulceration of the cornea.

Fold dermatitis - Where there are excessive skin folds or wrinkles, Fold dermatitis occurs due to rubbing of skin and trapping of moisture in the folds. Bacterial skin infection commonly develops, almost always caused by Staphylococcus intermedius. Grooming

The Bloodhound's smooth, shorthaired coat is easy to groom with a hound glove. There is no trimming required with this breed. The "glove" is fairly new on the market, and you wear them just like any other glove. They have semi-soft rubber bristles (or rubber nubs) on the palm, with some having wire bristles (or short bristles) on the top of the hand. The nubs and bristles are on flexible cloth base. This glove works best on short coats. Dogs who hate being brushed usually like this glove since it makes them feel like they are being petted rather than groomed. Bathe your Bloody only when necessary and rub him dry with a rough towel or chamois to leave

his coat shiny. The brisk rub will also cut down on shedding, although this breed is only classified as an average shedder. Clean the ears on a regular basis (especially in warm weather) as those long floppy ears can harbor infections. Bloodhounds are known for their distinctive doggy odor which some find offensive. So as a minimum, regular brushing will also help maintain the smooth, short-haired coat. Wipe eyes gently on a daily basis. These fellows do grow rather long nails, so be sure to keep them trimmed neatly.
Exercise

Bloodhounds love a good run and need a lot of exercise. But again, you will likely need to run, jog or walk with your dog on a leash or you won't be able to get its attention. They have an incredible level of stamina and can walk for hours on end, whether or not you can is another question. They would greatly enjoy hiking with you, but keep in mind their urge to investigate any interesting scent. Do not overtire them with walks until they are fully-grown. Your Bloody is a big dog that grows rapidly and needs its energy for developing strong bones, joints and muscles. The best exercise regimen for your Blood Hound would be at least two 45- minute walks a day no matter what the weather may be. While you may not be too happy with the weather, your dog doesn't mind in the least. This may vary depending on your dog, as each one does have its own personality. While on your walks or jogs, try to have about 20 minutes of fetch or even a tug of war. You need to also include at least 15 to 30 minutes of obedience training, trick training or other activities that keep your dog's mind sharp. If he's mentally stimulated he's happy. If he's happy, he's well behaved. If you don't think what you are doing is enough for your dog, don't increase the physical part of your routine, increase the educational portion instead. That would mean more obedience training, tricks - things to keep his mind busy - to stretch his mental limits. Working his mind will make him more tired than working his body - remember, their stamina is phenomenal. And they ALWAYS have energy to spare, even if you don't think they look like they're raring to go.
Training

You will need to have lots of patience to train a Bloodhound. Above all else, you will need to be firm and fair, but yet consistent. These clever dogs know darn well how to get around you with their pathetic look. They are absolute masters at getting their own way. The Bloodhound has a mind of its own and prefers to use it rather that listen to commands. So don't expect a great deal in the way of obedience from them without putting in a great deal of solid work. Males hit puberty between the age of 1 and 2 years and can be hell on wheels until that time. After the age of 2, with the proper training, stimulation and consistency, they are wonderful dogs.

Try and work on focus for your Bloodhound. Your dog's focus will only last about 20 or 30 seconds. So positive or negative reinforcement after the focus has passed results in the reinforcement getting associated with a different event than intended. Actions, good or bad, must be reinforced while the dog is focused. You can't train after the fact. Speaking of positive reinforcement, when you praise, do it with enthusiasm to let the dog know you are happy with his performance. If you aren't happy with what you're use a short, sharp, command that allows you to raise or lower the level of displeasure to fit the occasion. "No!!!" works well in most cases. Make sure there is contrast between the good and the bad so your dog can tell the difference. If he can't figure out if you're pleased with his work or not, learning becomes much more difficult for him. Don't over-do the praise or the reprimand, just be happy enough, or firm enough, to leave no doubt in his mind how you rate his performance.

Border Collies
AttributesRatings

Life Span:12 - 15 years - although some have lived to be 18 years old. Litter Size:4 - 8 puppies with the average being 6 puppies Group:Herding, AKC Herding, Working

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black/White, Chocolate/White, Red/White (Yellow/White), Blue/White (Slate), Lilac/White, Sable/White, TriColor, Saddle Pattern, Blue Merle, Red Merle, Sable Merle

Hair Length:Long, Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:19-22 inches (48-56 cm.) Male Weight:30-45 pounds (14-20 kg.) Female Height:18-21 inches (46-53 cm.)

Female Weight:27-42 pounds (12-19 kg.) Living Area:Not recommended for apartment life, they are best on a farm or acreage where they have the room to run and exercise with their handlers. Will do fine in a kennel so long as they have lots of daily activity and exercise and see their owner a lot. This dog will not do well being chained up all day.
Description

The Border Collie is a well balanced medium-sized athletic dog, bred for working and its intelligence, with either a smooth coat or is of medium length with a thick water resistant undercoat. It rather looks like an Australian Shepherd (without the bob-tail). The muzzle tapers elegantly to the all black nose and its ears are usually half perked. Long and lean looking with a wide skull, it is extremely intelligent and works hard to please. The Border's body is slightly longer than the height at its withers. Their liquid dark brown eyes are oval, with the exception of Merles, and then one or more eyes may be blue. On a well proportioned dog, the teeth should meet in a neat scissors bite - no over bite or underbites. Its lovely flag of a tail is never carried over its back, but is raised when the dog is excited. Training this dog requires patience due to their high level of energy, but they respond well to obedience work, agility, fly ball, rally-o and other games. The Border's main raison d'etre is herding sheep and their stamina and patience is highly renowned. Known for their hypnotic eye, the Border's herding skills are second to none - using eyes only to guide a herd - no nips or barks.
Coat Description

Borders are double coated, with a moderately long, dense, medium textured topcoat. The undercoat is short, soft and dense, offering good weather protection. The luxuriant coat forms the mane, brush and breeching. Usually the face, ear tips, forelegs (except for the feathering), and hind legs from hock to ground, features short and smooth hair. A smooth coat is acceptable. Just about any color of Border (see section below Colors) is acceptable except pure white.
History

The Border hails from the British Isles in the border country of England and Scotland. The derivation of the name Collie seems to be a hot topic, with some saying it comes from the Gaelic word meaning useful. Others insist it came from "coalie" meaning black, and still others say collie was the name of a breed of sheep. Whatever the case may be, the Border is a very old breed and appears in literature as far back as 1570. It wasn't until 1915 that James Reid, the Secretary of the International Sheepdog Society in Great Britain first called the dog a Border Collie. Sheepdog trials were first held in 1873 in Wales and in 1880 in the USA.

Temperament

Highly intelligent with a high instinctive drive to work intensely with a human handler. They are demanding, energetic, busy minded and busy outside and inside (even if they have just been exercised). They are rather like the Arabians of the horse world, high endurance and incredible stamina are the hallmarks of this working dog's heritage. In fact they have been bred to run many miles a day over some unimaginable terrain, but yet they get up and do it all over again the next day. Border's are the Type A personalities of the canine world, always wanting to work no matter what the job is - dogs sports or herding. They must have plenty of exercise, no sitting around in a yard or the house for this breed. A workaholic to the core, the Border can become neurotic, destructive and obsessive if it gets bored. Bordeom may manifest itself in the form of heading just about any thing that moves, including bugs, children, cats and brooms. Sponges for affection and hogs of the lime light, these dogs will watch you intently always winding up underfoot. People-oriented, the Border needs to receive very good socialization as a pup. Older Borders are rather stand offish with people they don't know, and can be aggressive with other dogs. Despite being as intelligent as they are, they mature slowly and seem to be able to manifest "puppy brain" behaviour even into their senior years. So be prepared for the class clown of the herding world. Maturity and dignity don't become words used with a Border until they are about 3 - 4 years old.
Health Problems

Generally a quite hardy breed, the Border does have some special medical conditions to be aware of:
hip dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness. osteochondritis dissecans: a degenerative disease of the joints, associated with over-nutrition and too-fast growth of puppies.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy: manifests as night blindness, slowly progresses to total blindness. Collie Eye Anomaly: can cause blindness, but is not a progressive disease

Epilepsy: a neurological seizure disorder. There is no test for this.

 Deafness: Congenital Deafness can be a problem.

Issues with Anaesthetics: Since Borders have such low body fat they may be more sensitive to barbiturate-based Anesthetics. Grooming

The Border has a medium/long coat, and needs to be groomed (combed and brushed) at a minimum of once a week. Although, they are considered to be fairly low maintenance since their coats actually shed dirt fairly well. A good brushing about 2 - 3 times per week will keep the coat looking nice and tidy. You might want to do this more often during shedding season, to keep it off your carpets. A coat like this can tangle easily and it needs to be brushed out on a regular basis. Use care brushing when the soft undercoat is shedding. As well his feathers on the front legs and tail need to be trimmed when necessary. Bathe or dry shampoo when necessary. In other words, don't bathe them on a regular basis, just when they start feeling dirty to you or have rolled in something obnoxious or made friends with a skunk at close range. This breed is an average shedder. It your dog smells bad after a bath, head to the Vet and get the ears and skin checked - for instance your dog may have a hot spot - and they have an awful smell. Make certain to check for ticks during tick season and pay attention to the length of the toenails. If they run on hard surfaces a lot, they will wear their own nails down. But if not, then you will either have to clip them yourself, or have a professional do it for you.
Exercise

Borders have no end to their energy both indoors and out. If left to their own devices, you won't like what you find when you get home (chewed walls, books, carpet etc.) Outside they will entertain themselves by digging holes. The goal would be to stimulate both the mind and the body of your Border - engage his boundless curiosity and intelligence. An ideal workout for your Border would be a rousing game of fetch with balls or a Frisbee, throw in some swimming, running along side you while you bike and hiking. Don't expect your dog to entertain itself, because this one will not. They will wait for you, and if you don't come to engage them, will chew things they should not or present you with some very large holes in your lawn. You need to be very careful about heat exhaustion with the Border. They are so intense, they will often continue on past their limits unless you stop them and slow them down The best exercise regimen for your Border Collie would be at least two 45 minute walks a day, no matter what the weather may be. While you may not be too happy with the weather, your dog doesn't mind in the least. This may vary depending on your dog, as each one does have its own personality.

While on your walks try to have about 20 minutes full tilt running off leash and include a game of fetch or even a tug of war. You need to also include at least 15 to 30 minutes of obedience training, trick training or other activities that keep your dog's mind sharp. If he's mentally stimulated he's happy. If he's happy, he's well-behaved. If you don't think what you are doing is enough for your dog, don't increase the physical part of your routine, increase the educational portion instead. That would mean more obedience training, tricks - things to keep his mind busy - to stretch his mental limits. Working his mind will make him more tired than working his body - remember, their stamina is phenomenal. And they ALWAYS have energy to spare, even when you don't!
Training

Borders are one of the smartest breeds hands down and learn very quickly. Their intelligence isn't the issue the trainer is the issue. These dogs are very difficult for the average person to train. These dogs are so intelligent that they can actually manipulate you to do what they want you to do. Some can be very willful and dominant - the Alpha dog - and the only way to work with that is to prove to them that you can make them do things. They are very sensitive dogs and a harsh correction may make them freeze and shut down on you - for instance roll over on its back or pay close attention to something else besides you. Or, they may also get even more anxious and speed up, which will cause more miscues. You need to be firm and consistent with them because they will try and get away with as much as they can. Also be careful about sounds, as Borders are very sensitive to sounds. The most frustrating part about training a Border is their hypersensitivity to the slightest sound or movement you make. They try to anticipate what you want them to do and guess at what comes next. Trying to get them to actually remain still and wait for the actual command is challenging to say the least. The best type of training for the Borders is motivational with lots of treats/play time. And another love of Border Collies is tricks. They love learning new things and can be taught some great stunts like playing dead or rolling over - anything so they can show off. It appeals to the clown in them.

Border Terriers
Life Span:15 years Litter Size: 4-5 puppies at a time Group:Terrier group

Recognized By:CKC, UKC, ACR Color:Upon closer examination, one will find the breed's tousled coat of tan, red, grizzle or even blue and tan is actually a double coat of coarse, wiry hair. Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small, Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:13-16 inches high at the shoulder Male Weight:13-16 pounds Female Height:13-16 inches high at the shoulder Female Weight:12-15 pounds Living Area:Border Terriers are a small enough breed to successfully live in an apartment sized home or small house. When out in a yard, it is first important to keep Border Terriers in a reinforced or secured area where they cannot dig or squeeze their way out through small openings. Given the option, they are likely to spend half their time indoors and the other half outdoors.
Description

With a recent number of appearances in movies and TV, the Border Terrier is once again regaining the popularity it has held at different time periods throughout history. It has become one of the most adored breeds of the canine world thanks to its intelligence and head to tail characteristic charm. The Border Terrier, with its shaggy tan coat, not only perfectly fits the image that comes to mind when imagining a dog, it also fits the many portrayals throughout culture in children's books and stories. At an average of 13-16 pounds (with females only weighing in at a pound or two less), the Border Terrier is by no means a large dog; however, its personality is one that can be considered boisterous and jovial. Upon closer examination, one will find the breed's tousled coat of tan, red, grizzle or even blue and tan is actually a double coat of coarse, wiry hair. One of the main features that make the breed so popular is their teddy bear face, characteristically set with soft intelligent eyes, a black button nose and topped with folded over ears, conveying a quizzical look. The tail is short and tapered. It is not uncommon for patches of white to be found on the chest and at times, the feet. Those who choose to keep two Border Terriers often elect to have a pair consisting of one male and one female. This allows for issues of dominance to be kept at a minimum.

Coat Description

While the coat can sometimes be long and a bit tousled, there are other dogs whose wiry coat is fairly smooth. On the face, the hair is tame with a bushy muzzle, giving the appearance of dense whiskers.
History

The very beginnings of the Border Terrier are traced to a region just on the boundary of England and Scotland. Hunters plagued by predatory foxes and farmers with barns full of rats and mice used the small but gutsy breed to kill off vermin, or flush the foxes (and sometimes even badgers) out of their dens. They were then used in foxhunts because, unlike other smaller breeds used for the same purpose, their somewhat longer legs allowed them to keep up with the horses.
Temperament

Even though they are only 13-16 inches high at the shoulder, Border Terriers are giants when it comes to personality. Their compact size in conjunction with their ability to learn and learn quickly has made them the ideal breed for show business animals in recent years. A good number of commercials, TV and movies show not just a small dog that is well trained but a dog whose personality is big enough to come across the screen to an audience. As lively as they are, Border Terriers are anything but overbearing. They may give a bark or two to express a readiness for action, but they are in no way a naturally aggressive breed, nor are they prone to a bark that is constant. As these working animals were bred to go on foxhunts, they are accustomed to working in packs. In this present day, this equates to being in the company of others, such as a family unit, and eagerly interacting with those around them. Their temperament is known to be an exceptional match for households with children. It is not uncommon for owners to have at least two Border Terriers, (one male, one female) as each has the energy to keep the other occupied while the owner goes about his or her daily business of running a household. Long periods of inactivity are not recommended for this breed. Border Terriers tend to be quite bold in their own surroundings but can also be quite timid in public if not properly socialized at a young age. As puppies, they will start out active with a mellowness that develops with time and maturity. As the breed was raised to rid barns of vermin and chase after animals gone to ground on a hunt, it is also important that a household with small animals such as cats, rabbits or gerbils be raised with the terrier from the very beginning. Introducing a small animal to the household at a later date is likely to rouse the breed's hunting instincts, requiring constant vigilance between the two animals. The Border Terrier is small but scrappy and willing to stand its ground. The breed typically does fine with other dogs; however, neutering or spaying can cut down on any aggressive behaviors. This is also a breed that likes to chew, reducing even the toughest of toys to confetti with little or no effort. When training begins, it is important to set down boundaries as to what is acceptable for chewing and what is not. It is best to invest in chew toys that are specially geared for safe, heavy duty chewing. These can often be found at pet stores or online.

Health Problems

The Border Terrier is a hearty breed that has an inclination to withstand pain and illness at great lengths, never letting on that there is a problem until very late in the game. Owners who interact with their Border Terrier on a regular basis have a better chance of noticing any slight changes than those who do not. Regular checkups are a must when opting for this breed. While they are no more or less prone to the average ills that trouble any other canine, a metabolic disorder known as canine epilepoid cramping syndrome, or 'Spike's Disease' is a suspected hereditary disease for Border Terriers. It is often confused with Epilepsy.
Grooming

The dual coat of the Border Terrier often allows for a soft layering of colors. It is not uncommon to find Border Terriers with a salt and pepper appearance, often called grizzle. They can also be found in what is called a red grizzle, wheaten or sometimes just plain tan. While the coat can sometimes be long and a bit tousled, there are other dogs whose wiry coat is fairly smooth. On the face, the hair is tame with a bushy muzzle, giving the appearance of dense whiskers. When it comes to a durable, weather resistant double coat, a good brushing two times per week is the most recommended method of care. As with all dogs whose coats consist of dual layers, bathing should only take place when necessary. Frequent bathing will eventually wash away valuable oils trapped in the undercoat. Without these oils, the skin not only loses its defense but the coat's ability to remain weatherproof is greatly diminished. A simple brushing will distribute these oils to the right places. Since clipping a Border Terrier's hair can have a negative effect on regrowth, a method called stripping is recommended instead. Stripping is the act of removing hair that is blown, or growing out and dead, by hand. Going with the direction of hair growth in an area, one grasps the blown hairs between the forefinger and thumb and gently removes them with no stress to the animal whatsoever. Stripping knives are a tool commonly used to remove more hair faster. While it requires time and experience, the entire body, from tail to muzzle, can be stripped. One can either strip out their dog's hair over a period of days or seek out a professional groomer who is likely to take only one or two hours to complete the task. Incidentally, not all Border Terriers will require stripping. It is not unheard of for some Border pups to come into the world with a simple single coat of wiry hair. As these dogs will do little in the way of shedding, they make a top pick for dog lovers who suffer from allergies.
Exercise

As it has been stated, long periods of inactivity are not recommended for the Border Terrier. However, as long as there are toys and other goings-on in the household to occupy the periods in between, they will do fairly well. This is a breed that is quite forgiving to its endeared owner but will not hesitate to charge out the door the minute their owner jangles their lead. When out and about, many have come to find the Border Terrier has a great amount of stamina.

Chasing after toys and playing fetch not only brings out their natural hunting instinct, it promotes interaction between the dog and its owner, something this breed greatly enjoys and depends on. They also have a noted aptitude for task oriented activities such as agility and obstacle courses.
Training

The Border Terrier's all out willingness to learn is what has made it such a popular choice in the show business world. One merely needs to appeal to its 'eager to please' attitude with loads of praise to see it perform. As many have found, the things a Border Terrier are given love and attention for, they will do time and time again. This can make training easy; however, it is important to take great care in not accidentally establishing a certain behavior as acceptable when it is not. These terriers have a tremendous ability for remembering exactly what is tolerable and what they are only sometimes able to get away with. It is likely they will try to get away with the behavior first, resulting in a power struggle. Consistency is a must and dominance must be established early in the relationship. This is done with the help of a good obedience class. Border Terriers not only have the temperament that makes them quite keen on obedience training, they get such high marks in it that they are often used as therapy dogs for children and the elderly. They have been used as service animals for the deaf and, as stated, it is not uncommon to see them in commercials, TV and even movies. Their willingness to do a number of takes and enthusiastically perform each time puts them ahead of other breeds whose attention span often wanders due to the amount of lights, equipment and activity on the set.

Borzois
Life Span:10 years to 13 years Litter Size:1 - 11 puppies -1 pup in a litter is common Group:The Borzoi belongs to the AKC Hounds Group Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:In coloring, the Borzoi is found in many colors. You will find them most often as white coated animals. Tan and gray are also common. Some will have dark colored markings on their coat. Often, they are mixed colors but you can find solid colored coats as well. Hair Length:Long Size:Extra Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:28 inches

Male Weight:75 pounds up to about 110 pounds Female Height:26 inches high Female Weight:60 pounds up to 100 pounds Living Area:The Borzoi is a larger dog and for that will need some additional room in terms of where he lives. Yet, if the dog is given enough exercise, even smaller locations are just fine for him. In the home, they are likely to find a nice corner to nap in and not really bother anyone. On the flip side, though, the Borzoi will want to enjoy the outdoors. Do provide him with a place to run and to play and he will do just that.
Description

The Borzoi is an excellent dog. This type of dog is also known as a Russian Wolfhound. Their bodies are much the same as that of a Greyhound in size and structure. These are amazing dogs for their beauty but also for their temperament. They fit within the realm of a dog that can be appreciated by anyone that is looking for one. For those with a lot of room, the Borzoi will fit right into your family unit. As a very tall dog, the Borzoi commands attention. They have a very long but thin and narrow head shape and they have an arched muzzle. A tell tale characteristic of this dog is its tail. They are long and curved but they hang low against their backside. In addition, the coat around the neck of this dog is very thick and ruffled, giving it a unique look. When you look at the dog face on you will see that he has dark eyes that have their own unique shape of being oblong. The unique shape of the Borzoi is only one condition that makes it unique. These dogs are very beautiful animals that fit within a family well. You will need to walk him at least one time a day, but it is even more beneficial to provide your pet with a fenced in yard where they can run freely as that is what these dogs are well known for doing. If you live in an area with limited space, do be sure to find a location for him to run and play in.
Coat Description

You will then be able to notice this dog for its beautiful coat. Unlike many other dogs, their coats are silkily and even wavy. You will find that some will have curls in their coat hairs. The coat is generally longer and heavy. Around the neck area is a very thick ring of fur, making them look like they have very large shoulders.
History

When you consider the Borzoi in terms of history, you are likely to find this bred along side the wealthy. They were first thought to be brought from Arabia into Russia in the 17th century. Nobility then took them and bred them with dogs that had much longer hair, hence the current

coat of this animal. They were used and became very good wolf hunting dogs. This is where they get their other common name of a Russian Wolfhound! Because they were such successful hunters, their popularity spread widely and within a matter of years they were found in various countries throughout Europe. They were very well known in the British aristocracy for many years. They were often given as gifts to the royalty in fact. The Borzoi still has wonderful hunting abilities, but over time they became better known for their abilities in terms of companionship, making them just as important nonetheless.
Temperament

When it comes to temperament, you will find the Borzoi to be an amazing animal. They are very smart dogs and at the same time are very affectionate to their owners. You will enjoy a dog that is very aware of his family and very much willing to protect them. They are loyal animals to their owners. Being that these dogs are hounds there can be a bit of the characteristics of those dogs which includes having their own free will. In some situations, they will not be good for training because of this feature. A feature that many enjoy about the Borzoi is just how "good" they can be. They are quiet, self taking care of animals. They prefer to be clean and will help to make that happen on their own. In addition, they are not loud animals and often are happy to be quietly sitting in the background. Take them outdoors, though and you have another story. Because they are sign dogs they are very much well built animals as well. That means that they are fast and they will explore whatever and wherever they feel like. They are hard to train in terms of property boundaries because of this. To bring the Borzoi into your home, you should take the time to socialize them with others as well as with children and smaller animals, especially cats. They are territorial and will protect what they feel is their own property. More so, outdoors they are likely to chase after animals and are likely to get their prey for their fast build. If you have younger children or small animals in the home, do expose them to the Borzoi carefully and when the Borzoi is a young dog to help them to grow up knowing that these housemates are okay. In addition, these dogs often like to be resting not playing hard with children.
Health Problems

The Borzoi is a very strong animal and often does not have a lot of Health Problems to worry about. You may find that they are very demanding of a healthy Diet though. They require good nutrition because of their size and the importance of keeping up with their very strong muscles, intense speed and their bone structure. If you are looking to care for this dog, pay special attention to his Diet. Along with this fact is the fact that the Borzoi can also be a very picky eater. They are not often likely to turn away food but they want and often demand quality. You will find that they can also

become bloated which can leave them uninterested in playing or daily activities. You will need to feed your Borzoi often. Instead of one or two larger meals, the Borzoi needs to be given several smaller meals throughout the day. This will help with digestion and with keeping from becoming uneasy throughout the day. The dog will want to rest and often nap after he eats so do not plan on a lot of playing at this time. Give him time to nap. In terms of other Health conditions, Borzoi are often temperamental with medications. You will find that overall they are healthy animals. They are susceptible to common illnesses that dogs get but are not especially prone to anything. What's more, they do require vaccines like other dogs do to remain healthy.
Grooming

Taking care of your Borzoi will not be as difficult as you think. That is because the Borzoi is a dog that likes to remain clean and healthy. He will do much of his own grooming, which is a good thing for owners! Nevertheless, you do need to pay attention to your Borzoi yourself. They have a long coat that requires a good brushing. Purchase a good quality bristle brush to brush them with and do this at least weekly much more often when able to. Because they do take good care of themselves, for the most part, it is likely that you will be able to bath them very infrequently. You can also use dry shampoos on these dogs when you feel the need to as a wet batch can be hard with a large dog like the Borzoi is. Another important part of caring for your Borzoi is to pay attention to their feet. The hair between their toes needs to be trimmed and they need this taken care of so that they do not have painful feet! Unfortunately, the Borzoi is a heavy shedder which means that brushing them will help to keep the coat off of your home.
Exercise

The Borzoi is a dog that does require play time. They are large animals that often need to be running and playing. In fact, it is necessary to provide this to your dog even when the dog is in a smaller sized area. In order to stay healthy, the Borzoi requires enough room to run. You will need to provide them with some exercise as it is required for their body structure to remain fit. They are mostly muscle under their coat which means exercise to stay fit and healthy. If you can not find the room to allow the pet to run, you may want to consider taking on a new hobby, such as jogging or running. They will love to accompany you on your runs and are often likely to enjoy the bike too. A fenced in yard is the very best area for the dogs but you can also find much enjoyment with taking them to the park. When exercising your Borzoi, you should take note in the fact that they are more than likely to

take off in one direction or the other, making them very much dogs that need to be watched in any situation.
Training

One of the most difficult things to take in about the Borzoi is just how difficult it can be to train them. You can train them because they are very intelligent animals and they are well known for their talents in the world of hunting. Yet, they are hounds and for that they are often considered to be hard to train for their free spirit and their own mind. While they are very loyal to their families, they are also very much not willing to please their owners as much as taking the time to meet their own goals and demands. If you are to train them, you do need to use positive training methods. Often, the best methods revolve around building a trust between the trainer and the dog itself before they will begin to listen and do as commanded to do. Training can be done in a home by the owner or through specialized services. Your goal should be to find a way to get your Borzoi to work with you in terms of training rather than to attempt to discipline them for not interacting with you the way that you want to.

Boston Terriers
Life Span:13-15 years Litter Size:4 pups Group:Non-sporting group. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, APRI, ACR Color:Bostons are either: Black and white, Brown and white, brindle and white, and (in rare cases) red and white. Hair Length:Short Size:Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:15-17 inches (38.1-43 CM) Male Weight:10-25 pounds (4.5-11.3 KG) Female Height:15-17 inches (38.1-43 CM)

Female Weight:10-25 pounds (4.5-11.3 KG) Living Area:Bostons can adapt very well. They are happy living in apartments, small homes, large homes, mansions, in the city with short daily walks, or the country with a lot of room to run and play. They are inside dogs and MUST be kept inside. They have a hard time handling harsh weather and they are much happier inside with their family than they would be outside.
Description

Boston terriers are compact dogs. They have big flat heads with no wrinkles, wide-set dark eyes, small erect ears, and a wide flat snout with an ample black nose. Their frame is boxy, with a nice muscular build, and a short stubby tail. The fur of a Boston is fine, short, and thin. The neck is slightly arched, leading down to a broad chest. Their face shows a lot of personality and intelligence. A Boston's limbs are straight and well pronounced, and close to the same size as his body. They are odor-free and rarely shed. Bostons are a very easy going dog and can adapt to almost any living condition. The city or country, apartment or mansion, but keep in mind they are inside dogs. They get along great with children, other dogs, cats, and other animals. They love to please you and will do anything to keep you happy. Nothing makes a better door bell than a Boston. As soon as there is a knock at the door most of them will come running and wagging their little stump tails to tell you about it. If you want a dog that will lay around with you all day, a Boston is your dog. If you want a dog to do agility with you, a Boston is your dog. They can and will do just about anything as long as you don't try to take them swimming.
Coat Description

Bostons have a thin, short, fine coat that does not shed much. Their coat is usually black and white, brown and white, brindle and white, or in some cases red and white. The white will cover its belly, come up the chest, around the neck, and come down the middle of the face to the nose. They may also have white paws. Your Boston terrier may have more or less white on them. The standard is the markings are described above.
History

The breed originated around 1870 when Robert C. Hooper purchased a dog known as Hooper's Judge. Hooper's Judge was a cross between an English bulldog and an English terrier. Hooper's Judge was then bred down with a smaller female. The offspring were then bred down again with one or more French bulldogs, which were what provided the foundation for the Boston terrier. Bred down from pit fighting dogs the original Boston weighed about 44lbs. Their weight was once classified at light weight, middle weight, and heavy weight. They were first shown in Boston in 1870 and in 1893 the breed was admitted to membership in the American Kennel Club (AKC). The Boston is the first US breed to be recognized and is one of a few breeds to have originated into the United States that the AKC recognizes. The Boston terrier was the first nonsporting dog bred in the United States. In the early years the color and markings were not important, but by the 1900's the breeds distinctive markings and color were written into the standard, becoming an essential feature. "Terrier" is only in name to the Boston, as it has lost most of its ruthless desire for mayhem, prefers the company of humans, and though a few males

will challenge dogs if they feel their territory is being invaded, the Boston does not fit the Terrier stereotype.
Temperament

The temperament of a Boston is hard to describe. They are unlike any other breed there is. They are very loving, caring, wanting to please at all times. It takes a lot to make a Boston mad, but when they do get upset they walk away. They are very easy to train, they love to learn, and catch on very fast. They are quite sensitive to the tone of your voice, using a harsh tone will upset them and when they are upset their face shows it. Many Boston owners have said they make great watch dogs and only bark when they feel it's a must. Others say their females don't bark at all. They are great with kids, great for the elderly and friendly to strangers once they are sure the stranger is not going to harm their family. They are a very playful breed, very affectionate, and very much a part of the family, and very popular in the United States because of its excellent character. Although they love to please and are easy to train, house breaking can be a small problem. Over all a Boston is a gentle, alert, very intelligent, and well-mannered dog.
Health Problems

These little guys do have Health Problems. With their short faces they can have problems breathing, especially when stressed or hot. Some can have problems with Allergies as well. Their big, buggy eyes are easy to harm. The biggest eye problem is Corneal Ulcers. Around 1 in 10 will experience Corneal Ulcers in their life time. Corneal Ulcers are caused initially by injury to the eyes. They are also prone to Cataracts and Juvenile Cataracts. Deafness has been known to occur in Boston's sense the beginning of the breed. Deafness can occur in any Boston, but it is more prone to affect Bostons that have one or both eye blue or white and there offspring. The most common orthopedic problem found in Bostons is patellar luxation, which can lead to rupture of the anterior cruciate ligament. Occasionally Bostons can suffer hip dysphasia, but this condition occurs more often in large breeds, while patellar luxation is more common in small breeds. Ingrown or corkscrew tails can become a serious problem. The tail grows backwards and down creating a deep crevice that can become painful and infected. In severe cases the tails need amputated. Milder cases require attention to keeping the area clean and dry to maintain the pet's comfort.
Grooming

Bostons have a thin, fine, short coat. They do not shed much and little grooming is needed. An occasional brushing with a firm bristle brush is enough. However the face should be cleaned with a damp cloth daily and nails need to be clipped occasionally. They can also get dry skin, but nothing a good conditioner can't take care of. They also should have the occasional bath and a good cleaning around the tail every other week, more or less depending on how dirty your

Boston gets, how hard they play, and if they decided to roll in a mud puddle. Grooming a Boston is very easy. They enjoy being brushed, and usually don't mind their feet being touched. They can't always swim and some are not fond of water so they may shake a little during a bath. While clipping make sure not to clip very much nail off. If you clip off too much they will bleed. If this happens, apply corn starch or flour on the nail. The bleeding may last awhile but your Boston will be fine.
Exercise

Bostons Do not need a lot of exercise. They love going for walks, however interactive play provides them with more than enough exercise with the attention he craves and loves. You should never push your Boston to exercise outside in extreme temperatures because they cannot handle intense heat or cold. Always remember that they may have difficulty breathing due to their short muzzle, so be careful with strenuous exercise. Bostons are very happy doing anything from playing fetch inside to going on hikes with you. Just make sure you have plenty of water and are able to break when they need to so they don't overheat.
Training

Bostons terriers are very easy to train. They love to please, they love to learn, and catch on very fast. They can be a little slow when it comes to house training but they will catch on quicker than many breeds. They are very sensitive to the tone in your voice, speak harshly to your Boston and you will see the sadness in his eyes. They learn well if you spend a lot of time with them. They are social little guys and crave attention. They need proper socialization at an early age because sometimes males can be quite territorial. Using small treats and praising works well for Bostons, they respond to positive reinforcement better than discipline. A happy Boston is a Boston that is ready to learn and ready to please. There is nothing better than a happy Boston terrier. Stay consistent and take at least a few minutes to train each day. Do not stretch each a training period too long or your Boston will get bored. Mix it up and work on one trick for a few minutes, then go to another. Wile training a Boston, a small bag of cut-up hot dogs will become very useful. Make it fun. Remember a Boston wants to please you. Turn training into a game you both will enjoy, that way your Boston won't get bored and nether will you.

Bouvier des Flandres

Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:6-10 puppies per litter with 8 the average Group:Herding, AKC Herding Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

Color:Black through to salt and pepper as well as fawn, gray and brindle are all acceptable. A small white patch on the chest is acceptable. Any parti-colored, chocolate or white coloration is considered a fault in the show ring. Hair Length:Medium Size:Large, Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:23-28 inches (58-71 cm) Male Weight:75-90 pounds (34-41 kg) Female Height:22-27 inches (56-69 cm) Female Weight:60-80 pounds (27-36 kg) Living Area:The Bouvier des Flanders can live in an apartment provided they have adequate exercise. They do best in a larger space with a yard as they enjoy being outdoors.

Description

The Bouvier des Flanders is a very large and powerful dog that has a wonderful, gentle personality and a natural enthusiasm for everything that it does. They are athletic and strong yet capable of adapting to smaller living spaces provided they have regular outdoor exercise. Originally used as a cattle dog the Bouvier des Flanders is muscular and capable of running and endurance activities as well as herding and obedience type work. The head of the Bouvier des Flanders, like many breeds, makes it a truly distinctive breed. There is a heavy beard, moustache and thick and long eyebrows that somewhat obscure the features of the head, although that in itself makes the breed easy to identify. The head is covered with long and shaggy hair and the eyes beneath the heavy eyebrows are alert, very dark, intelligent and lively. The muzzle is long and tapered with a large, well developed black nose that is very obvious. The lips are tight to the teeth and are not pendulous or loose. The ears are either cropped to stand very upright or are left natural and fold over. The head is massive and very large on the breed. The neck and body of the Bouvier des Flanders is powerful and muscular and covered by a very dry to the touch, double steel-wool type coat that can protect the dog when traveling through brush or wooded areas. The coat is wavy and kinky, not smooth, silken or sleek in appearance. Overall the height of the dog at the shoulders should be equal to the dog's total body length, making them appear square in shape. The top line should be flat and level and the tail is either docked or left natural. If docked it is very short.

The neck of the Bouvier des Flanders is noticeable arched or crested and should be moderately long, wider at the base than at the throat. The neck is situated well up into the shoulders giving the head and neck a proud and alert carriage, not horizontal. The shoulders are strong and well developed, sloping into a deep, wide chest and well sprung rib cage. The elbows of the front legs should be close to the body and the legs should be straight when viewed from either the front or the sides. The hindquarters are well developed and muscular and should parallel the front legs when the dog is viewed from the rear. The legs should have a moderate bend but should not be overly crouched in appearance or completely straight. The dog should move with a level and balanced stride and the hindquarters should remain very level. The overall stride will be long with a good thrust or pushing off by the hindquarters.
Coat Description

The coat should look windblown and somewhat tousled with a harsh, dry outer coat and a softer, finer and denser inner coat. The moustache and beard as well as the eyebrows will be longer than the rest of the coat and are typically straighter. The coat is wavy and slightly kinky in appearance but never straight or flat to the body. In competition the coat may be trimmed only slightly to accentuate the natural lines of the body. Coats that are too soft or are lacking in dense undercoat are considered a fault with the breed.
History

The Bouvier des Flanders originated in Belgium in the 1600s. They were used on the large farms and cattle ranches in the Flanders area and the name actually means "cowherd of Flanders". The first of the breed was developed by farmers likely by crossing mastiffs with spaniels and sheepdogs and was bred for ability, not for a specific appearance. Therefore in the original Bouvier des Flanders there was a great deal of variation found within the dogs known by the name. The first showing of the Bouvier des Flanders was in 1910 at the Brussels International Dog Show although the standards were not developed until 1912. Many of the breed were killed during World War l during bombing raids and destruction of the area. The actual Bouvier des Flanders ancestors that are found in most current lines all stem from a single bloodline, a male known as Ch. Nic de Sottegem, which was owned by the Belgium Army. Currently the Bouvier des Flanders is a relatively uncommon breed outside of shows and breeders kennels. They are recognized by most Kennel Clubs however have not typically caught on as a companion dog probably due to their large size and rather intimidating appearance, although they make terrific pets. The Bouvier des Flanders has been used as rescue dogs as well as for assistance dogs for handicapped and blind individuals with great success.

Temperament

As a working cattle dog the Bouvier des Flanders needs to be calm, even tempered and very protective towards the herd. They are bold and fearless as well as courageous without the high prey drive associated with some of the other large dog breeds. They will protect their area and may have a tendency to become more protective or even nervous and timid if not socialized. They are known to be standoffish with new people but once they accept the person they will quickly adjust. The Bouvier des Flanders is very intelligent and has the tendency to be somewhat independent at times. They can be dominant and do need to have someone that has experience with dominant breeds involved in their training and socialization. The breed is generally very easy to train and has a wonderful memory for commands as well as people, often amazing their owners with who they remember. The Bouvier des Flanders is a good watchdog and guard dog although they are not prone to aggression. Their sheer size and intimidating look is usually enough to keep unwanted people away. They are rather reserved and not an extremely playful breed once they fully mature at three years of age although they get along well with children. They are more of a companion dog rather than a playful dog, typically enjoying going for a walk or simply watching the kids play. The Bouvier des Flanders can, when properly socialized, learn to get along with other pets although they are not recommended for houses with non-canine pets as they do chase. They will typically get along well with other dogs with socialization, however intact males will have more problems getting along with other intact males than neutered males will. It is recommended to neuter and spay the Bouvier des Flanders unless being used in a breeding program to help with obedience and control of these large dogs and to prevent unwanted or unplanned pregnancies.
Health Problems

As can be predicted from the history of the breed the Bouvier des Flanders has developed a high tolerance for pain as well as a very healthy and hardy constitution. They are not prone to many of the genetic conditions of many of the breeds likely to their selective and controlled Breeding. They are also not a high demand dog in many areas due to their size, making them less likely to be involved in puppy mills and backyard Breeding programs that have severely damaged other more popular breeds. The most common Health issues with Bouvier des Flanders are:
Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) - common in all large breeds it is the degeneration of the hip joint resulting in decreased mobility and pain. Can be treated with drug therapies and surgery.

 Bloat - also called Gastric torsion, occurs in most deep chested breeds. Feeding several small meals and limiting Exercise immediately after eating can control this problem. Entropion - turning inward of the eyelids, usually the lower, resulting in irritation to the eye. Can be corrected with a surgical procedure. Grooming

Grooming the Bouvier des Flanders requires a regular routine to keep the coat looking great and to minimize the amount of hair spread on the furniture and rugs. If groomed two to three times a week there will be little shedding, although in the spring and fall the grooming requirements will increase. The outer coat of the Bouvier des Flanders is very coarse and dry to the touch and is not prone to matting or tangling. The softer, denser inner coat is more prone to these conditions and care needs to be taken to make sure all debris and tangles are out of the inner coat. Groom with a pin brush or very stiff bristle brush grooming in the direction of hair growth. Since the two coats together provide protection for the dog it is not recommended to clip the coats however trimming the longer hairs on the beard, moustache and eyebrows is considered acceptable for the show ring. Slight trimming of the rest of the coat to accentuate the body and to tidy up the coat is also permitted and usually will only need to occur about once every three to four months. Avoid bathing the dog and only do so when absolutely necessary. They are a very clean dog and don't typically have the doggy smell, largely due to the resistant nature of the coat. Some allergy suffers have reported that they have little reaction to the Bouvier des Flanders but it is important to spend some time with the breed to see if this is true for the individual. Caring for the ears, especially in Bouvier des Flanders with the natural ears is important as wax and debris can build up causing infections. Pluck all long hair out of the visible inside ear area during grooming to help prevent wax build up. If you are uncomfortable with this a groomer can do this for you every three to four months when they are trimmed.
Exercise

Starting the young Bouvier des Flanders off with lots of exercise that is not too strenuous or exhausting is very important. The breed is slow to mature not reaching full size until about three years of age and during this time it is important not to over stress the puppy physically. Long walks, shorter jogs and lots of playtime are essential for the growing puppy. Teaching the Bouvier des Flanders to play when they are young is an excellent way to exercise the dogs and to help them stay playful while they mature. The Bouvier des Flanders, once fully mature, can handle lots of long, regular exercise. They can handle long jogs, hiking time and interaction with other dogs to provide regular and frequent exercise. The Bouvier des Flanders will also self-exercise if provided a large yard or space however they tend to be inactive if left alone in the house.

The Bouvier des Flanders need interaction with people to be happy and well adjusted so exercise provides a great opportunity. Although they are large they do love to go in the car and are ideal trekking and hiking pets, typically staying with the family and not roaming once trained. They are also good in most situations as they are not dog aggressive unless they are intact males with females present. The Bouvier des Flanders can be taught to fetch as well as compete in obedience and even agility events. They are a very loyal and obedient dog and are naturals at these activities. Of course they can also be used as herding dogs should you live in a rural setting. Many owners train their Bouvier des Flanders in herding, an ideal way to combine exercise with obedience type training.
Training

Training the Bouvier des Flanders requires that the dog bonds with the trainer or owner and understands that he or she is the boss. This means working with the puppy in very positive and consistent manners right from the start. Once the Bouvier des Flanders understands that the human is the leader, they are extremely affectionate, willing learners and very obedient in nature. The Bouvier des Flanders is a naturally very clean dog and will typically learn the routine of housetraining within a very short period of time, often just a couple of weeks. They are also good both on and off the leash and can be trained to heel off the leash with little effort once they have passed the impulsive puppy stage. A large breed, they do not mature either physically or mentally until about two to three years of age and so trainers should keep in mind not to expect them to have really mature behaviors even though they are large in size at a young age. Obedience training and lots of early socialization is a requirement of the breed. They can be somewhat independent and headstrong through their teenage phase so consistency is important. They may also become protective and territorial so socialization is key for the breed. Training the Bouvier des Flanders as a herding dog is a true pleasure. They are very astute and intelligent and will catch on to what the trainer is requiring very quickly and easily. They do require repetition of training until the command is mastered, but once they have it down they seem to never forget. The Bouvier des Flanders makes an ideal obedience show dog as well as an agility dog although their large size is often a bit of a challenge if they are not worked with at this event at a young age.

Boxers
Life Span:9-11 years, though some have lived to be 13. Litter Size:3 to 8 puppies is common with the average being 6. Group:Working, Utility, Guardian Dogs, Working Dogs. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

Color:The under-colour should be tan or brindle (a mixture of brown with a sort of marbling), though the tan colour may actually occur anywhere along a continuum of brown-ish colours. Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:23 to 25 inches (57 - 63cm) Male Weight:60 to 70 pounds (27 - 32kg) Female Height:21 to 23.5 inches (53 - 60cm). Female Weight:55 to 65 pounds (25 and 29kg). Living Area:Boxers happily adapt to home life, though keeping them in an apartment is not advised. They are rather large for a mid-sized dog and seem to simply take up more than their fair share of space. Since Boxers also tend to be rather active, they are often running around the house.
Description

This popular breed of dog is mid-sized, with a very square jaw and naturally floppy ears that are very often surgically altered to make them stand up. They are a naturally very intelligent breed with a characteristic short nose and slight under-bite. They have long, muscular legs and deep chests for resonant barking They are very good with children and very trainable. Though they have a reputation for being strong willed, this is usually a result of owners who were too indulgent when they were puppies. Boxers have been used for running animals to the ground and holding them there until their masters arrive with a gun to dispatch the creature that isn't a dog. Their ancestors once were trained upon bears (just like Pit Bulls or Staffordshire Terriers), and Boxers can take on deer or pigs. Today they rarely are used for such hunting adventures. Instead they are used as police dogs as well as service, guide and therapy functions. They can be easily trained to be good with people if socialized well as early in life as possible. They are always brown or brindle with white and black markings. Dark markings are very likely around the face and eyes. Some dogs are born with an over abundance of white markings that are often accompanied by deafness. As a breed, Boxers are very loyal and fun loving dogs with a generally calm nature after they

mature at about two or three years. Boxers are very loving with their families and will fiercely defend them from theft or attack. Their loyalty extends to other animal members of the family, dog or other pet. As such, Boxers are now among the most popular breeds in the United States. Because there are so many dogs being bred to keep up with the demand, the breed now has quite a few disorders that they are particularly prone to. These include specific cancers, hip dysplasia, bloat as well as diet related allergies. It's best to have a large yard with a stout fence for containing your Boxer. They are very capable hunting dogs that are bred to get the job done.
Coat Description

Boxer coats are rather thin and are easily maintained. They do shed, but the fur is so short and fine that it typically doesn't build up unless it's shedding season when the rate seems to about double.
History

The giant Molossian hound of ancient Greece that is the progenitor of many large headed dogs probably travelled there from the Middle East. More recently, the boxer is of German origin and was bred from a now-extinct and somewhat larger breed of dog called the Bullenbeisser, once used to take down deer, wild boar and even bear, holding them down to the ground until the hunter arrived. Such dogs are today used for more civic uses and have been the companions of shop keepers. When crossed with the English Bulldog (resulting in the characteristic square jaw and squared shoulders), the breed was stabilized and first brought to show in the 1890s. By 1915, the first American Kennel Club (AKC) champion boxer was "crowned." The breed has remains very popular 'til this day. Boxers have a long and distinguished career working with various human enterprises, always looking to please. Indeed, a great many were used by German forces during the world wars as guard dogs and couriers. The popularity of the breed became international after the 1950s. Today there are so many boxers around, it is a good idea to check with your breeder to make sure your new pup doesn't have the congenital disorders of a puppy that is bred from parents demonstrating recessive traits.
Temperament

Normally very relaxed when older, boxers can be quite a handful as pups. However, they will reward you with a lifetime of faithful service if you keep up with their early training. Boxers are best loved for their temperament that is intelligent and very loyal. They are rather

affectionate and will love to join you on the couch, preferring to be near their owners whenever possible. They are often distrustful of strangers unless you really work on this aspect of their training when very small puppies. Otherwise, Boxers will very loudly announce visitors to your home and might make a point of diligently putting themselves between your self and your guests. Typically, Boxers don't really calm down until they're two or three, though their physical development is usually over by 18 months. This means your early training can seem as if it's falling on deaf ears though it actually isn't. In fact, your dog may seem to rather suddenly realize what you've been telling him or her all along one day. Though courteous to other animals in your home that they're brought up with, they have a tendency to chase after cats and other small animals that aren't part of their pack. If you have neighbours with cats, it's best to make it a point to keep your Boxer either well away from them or train them well not to take off after them. Punitive punishments rarely work with Boxers and, like many other dogs, are far more responsive to reward training. Many people have great results when training their boxers to a click or well-chosen set of commands. Click training has become very popular lately and they take rather well to it since it's reward based. They remain very playful late into their lives, which are somewhat longer than most big dogs. Boxers love to roughhouse and are very happy to play with human companions, just as they might with another dog.
Health Problems

Boxers are prone to quite a few disorders. They have been inbred for over 100 years and in order to keep their appearance, there are several associated disorders. The breed also has one particular congenital defect related to coat colour.
Deafness: Somewhere between 20-40% of white puppies will be deaf in one or both ears. Such dogs were once put down to keep the trait from spreading, as long as there's white in the breed, 1/4 of the pups will come out white when normal dogs are bred. They're not allowed to compete in Show, but may participate in competitive trials such as Agility and Obedience.

Heat disorders: Aortic Stenosis and Arrhythmogenic Right Ventricular Cardiomyopathy are both congenital defects that manifest when your Boxer is older. Metabolic disorders: Hypothyroidism, Bloat and intestinal problems are all somewhat common in Boxers. Very careful Diet maintenance, including several small feedings per day, can help keep the

instance of these conditions down.

Allergies: These are often diet related and can often be mitigated that way. Phyiscal deformities: Sometimes boxer puppies have eyelids that are deformed. This condition, called Entropion, can be corrected by surgery. Grooming

Taking care of their coat is a very simple affair, since there is so little of it. A regular rubbing with a hound cloth is often enough, though many boxers like the skin stimulation of a rubber comb. They are very clean dogs and often will actually keep themselves preened like a cat. Usually if they do require a bath, it's more of an annual event than a regularly scheduled one. Their nails are never black, so it's easy for owners to clip them. Be sure to keep an eye on their dewclaws if not removed - they don't wear down with regular exercise as the other claws do and may need trimming as often as every week or two. Boxers that have had their ears bobbed should have their ears regularly examined for wax build up and the presence of mites. You should never, ever put q-tips in your dog's ear canal. Instead you should pull the ear up and use a gauze pad around the tip of your finger to clean around the outside of the ear canal. If a Boxer's ears are manipulated when he or she is young, there will be a period of recovery from the surgery, often a week or two at least. Usually your dog will come home with ear splints. Sometimes an Elizabethan collar is used, but many owners are able to keep the dog from too vigorously shaking his or her ears and scratching at them by simply keeping an eye on them. It's a very good idea to get your pup used to having grooming done by touching his or her ears and paws regularly when they're young. Your dog's minimal "beauty" sessions should be pleasant events that result in treats and praise. If they choose to resist, they can put up quite a fight.
Exercise

Boxers are large dogs that can certainly benefit from at least an hour of good exercise every day. Joggers will find them perfect workout companions - walks aren't usually quite enough and they need them every day without fail. They do best when allowed to run around in a rural environment, though many urban owners are able to successfully keep them in small spaces if there's a large park nearby. Off-leash dog parks are ideally suited to the urban or suburban Boxer.

When letting them run around in even a large yard, you should take extra care to be sure the fence is absolutely secure. These dogs have been known to pick locks and jump over fences they are prone to escape, though usually not roving as long as male dogs are altered.
Training

Boxers require a great deal of firm training to keep their exuberance in check. Training should begin when they're quite young, since they can become difficult to handle even when still puppies since they're so large and strong. Though you should be consistent and firm with Boxers (and many other large dogs), they do not respond to punitive punishment. It is best to set things up so they can't help but succeed, then reward them for it. Some small treats and praise should be used in conjunction for the desired result. Some lines can be hyperactive and there is little to be done with such dogs other than trying to wear them out in a rural setting. When buying a pup it is good to check the parents for this trait, as they can have a hard time settling down to learn when too wound up. Almost all puppies are fun-loving clowns that take a few years to really grow up from a psychological point of view. Because they are intelligent, you should never underestimate their ability to break out. Their soft mouths have been known to manipulate locks on doors when left to the task long enough. Housebreaking is usually quick since Boxers are so fastidious. Keeping an eye on your dog and shuffling them outside whenever they start towards the door or sniffing will give them a chance to get it right and earn your treats and respect. The key with this type of training vigilance upon your part, tough at least these dogs are large enough that they won't be able to sneak under the furniture and get away with it Many people have had good result with using crates. As long a they're large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in, they will come to think of them as a home and refuge. Of course, such a crate for a Boxer is rather large, so most people use classical methods of training. Though somewhat stubborn, Boxers do generally want to please, and it's up to you to make them actually want to follow your commands. Aggression should be nipped in the bud, though most boxers are simply enthusiastic and curious.

Briards
Life Span:10 and 12 years. Litter Size:8 and 10 puppies. However, litter sizes as large a 17 have been noted.

Group:Herding Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The typical colors of the Briard are black, grey, or tawny. However, the puppy tawny coat turns into a lighter yearling coat. They can also be a combination of two of the pre-mentioned colors. Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24-27 inches Male Weight:75 pounds average Female Height:22-25 inches Female Weight:75 pounds average Living Area:The Briard does best in a home with a moderately fenced yard because it loves the outdoors. They typically will do fine being outside alone and in a fenced yard because they do have a sense of independence. However, they are quite content living in the home with the family. They are moderately active indoors and therefore do need some space to move around. Despite this, they can adjust to live happily in an apartment style environment if the owner is dedicated to providing the dog with enough daily exercise outside the home. They will do moderately well as kennel dogs, but again this is not suggested because of their love and need for activity and the outdoors.
Description

The Briard can be characterized as a large and muscular herding dog. In addition to the herding the Briard was also used as a guard dog. This makes the Briard a natural watch dog that has strong loyalties to its owner and family. They are very eager to please and learn tasks very quickly. Due to their history of being farm dogs they were taught many tasks. They have excellent memory for commands and are able to work independently. This independent personality does not take away from its loving and affectionate nature with its family. The Briard has a strong and powerful stature combined with the agility needed for a herding dog. The head of the Briard should give the impression of length with clean lines and no excess skin or jowls. The head should also be held high and alter and should connect to the neck at a 90 degree angle. The ears should be set high on the head and should have a thick leather to be firm at the base. The ears can be either cropped or not cropped. The muzzle has a moustache and beard and should be considered somewhat wide and end in a right angle.

Their muscular build is emphasized in their chest. The chest is broad and deep with moderately curved ribs. The shoulder blades are to be long and muscular. The front legs and rear legs are to be the same distance apart. The legs are to be straight and parallel to the median of the body. The form of the legs is very important because they are what will determine the dog's ability to herd and keep its agile movement. The rear legs are very powerful and help provide flexibility. The rear legs are to have two dewclaws that are lower set on the leg. This will give foot the appearance of having a wide base.
Coat Description

The Briard's coat is very coarse and strong. It is slightly wavy double coat. It is really similar to the coat of goats. Dirt and water do not easily attach to the coat. The coat if well groomed sheds very little. The average length of an adult Briard's coat is at least 6 inches. The length of the coat gives it a very attractive bushy appearance with a beard, moustache, and eyebrows. The undercoat of the Briard is much finer than that of the outer coat. Due to the softness and fineness of the undercoat it is prone to matting. The coat can be worn either long or shorter depending on owner's preference and level of coat maintenance desired.
History

The Briard goes back several centuries. The Briard was originally a sheep guard and herder in France. However, the French Army used this ancient sheep dog as a messenger and as a search dog for wounded soldiers because of its incredible sense of hearing. Some very famous people have owned Briard's throughout history. Some of these include Charlemagne, Napoleon, Thomas Jefferson, and Lafayette. However, the Briard did not become popular until after the Paris dog show of 1863. This was largely due to the fact that the dog's appearance was improved by breeding with Beauceron and Barbet breeds. The origin of the name of the Briar is under controversy. One theory is that the dog was named for Aubry of Montdidier. He was supposed to have owned an early Briard. The second theory is that the dog was named after the French province of Brie. Although it is suspected that the dog did not originate in that local. The Briard is somewhat popular in the United States but remains most popular in its home country of France.
Temperament

The Briard is a very loving and loyal dog. They are extremely intelligent without a hint of shyness. They are said to be a dog of heart with a light spirit and who become very loyal to their owners and families. They loyalty extends into being protective of their family as well so introductions to new people and animals should always be on the dog's terms. This includes new introductions into the family such as furniture or a new child. The Briard needs to be shown that new introductions are a positive experience. Further to this, socialization is very important with the Briard because of this protective nature. Socialization should start an early age and should consist of meeting all different kinds of people and going to several different types of places. If living in a home with children they are very loving and gentle when raised together. This is the

same for other animals. The Briard is known to be a bit dog aggressive, but with proper socialization and handling can co-exist with other pets and animals well. The Briard is definitely not a dog for everyone. They can be very stubborn and independent and sometimes very unfriendly and fearful when not raised properly. They respond very poorly punishment or severe training. They can become very withdrawn and sometimes even violent when treated negatively. It is important to train them using a more positive approach. Clicker training and food reinforcement training are examples of positive training methods. This breed is very sensitive to being teased. Further to this, because of their training and history of being herding dogs, Briards are likely to nip at people's heels with the intentions of herding them where the dog thinks they should go. When raised properly are very affectionate and warm family dogs. It is said that they will return ten fold the amount of affection that they are given. They do crave excitement and entertainment and therefore are not the type of dog that can just be left to roam and relax around the house. It is important for the Briard to have daily exercise and entertainment. Their love of the outdoors and for activity makes them excellent pets for the active individual or family.
Health Problems hip dysplasia: Causes pain and stiffness of the hip.

Epilepsy: Few cases are noted but it is unknown whether it was injury or genetically related. elbow dysplasia: Causes pain and stiffness of the elbow joint.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy : Causes vision loss and sometimes blindness.

Stationary Night Blindness: Causes night blindness and can cause moderate to severe day vision loss as well.

Lymphosarcoma: Cancer of the lymph system.

Bloat: Severe stomach condition caused by Exercise after ingesting commercial food and large quantities of water.

Hypothyroidism: Under-active thyroid gland.

von Willebrands Disease: Blood clotting problem.

Grooming

Care for the Briard is rated at being moderately high. Professional grooming is recommended about every 8 to 10 weeks and maintenance grooming is recommended weekly. If the Briard is not being shown, then the owner may choose to have the dog wear a shorter coat. This reduces the maintenance of the coat. Due to the softness and fineness of the undercoat of the Briard it is noteworthy that it does matt very easily when not brushed and combed regularly. The outer coat because of its coarse texture does not matt that easily, however, it is important not to overlook that because the matting will all be found in the under coat. It is approximated that to maintain the coat the owner should be expected to spend about two hours a week doing so. When properly maintained the coat sheds very little. The Briard should also be bathed on a regular basis. Bathing about once a month is acceptable. Bathing more frequently than that can cause skin irritation and dryness. When bathing the Briard the dog should be fully brushed and combed before hand. It is important that the dog is brushed from the skin to ensure that the matting in the undercoat is being untangled. To help with dematting the Briard it can be useful to use a specialty spray on de-tangling product. These products are designed to use before the bath. For the bath a specialty dog shampoo should be used in a diluted form. It should be rinsed out of the coat thoroughly as to prevent skin irritation caused by the soap residue. Fluff-drying should be used after the bath. Then once dry the dog should be combed again to get rid of the last tangles and keep the coat well maintained. It is also important that the hair of the Briard found on the pads of the feet and in the ears should be trimmed or clipped regularly. As well, there is some eye care involved. The eyes do tend to collect some matter and hair in the corners and therefore should be cleaned with a soft cloth moistened with clean water. The tear stains can be treated with an eye stain remover.
Exercise

The Briard is a working dog and therefore needs to have consistent exercise. They love to run and play and are excellent dogs for the active person. They are very happy to run along side a bike or go jogging. They also love to swim and would make excellent dogs for people who have cabins or spend lots of time near water. They will become restless if not exercised enough. The Briard is also well suited for defense training and police dog trails. The Briard's nature of working and herding combined with their level of intelligence make them quick learners. A combination of training and exercise is an excellent way to maintain a health dog both mentally and physically.
Training

Briard puppies and dogs need very consistent and constant training. They are highly intelligent dogs and therefore learn quickly and are capable of understanding and remembering a large vocabulary of commands. It is essential the Briard puppies are trained well and in the correct manner because otherwise they can become very withdrawn, suspicious, and sometimes aggressive animals.

From the time the Briard is a puppy it should be regularly introduced into new situations involving different types of people, places, and other animals. It is important that these new encounters are done in a positive manner. When training the Briard it is essential to use positive reinforcement training because they respond best to love and affection and respond very poorly to negative attention. Unfortunately owners are not educated on how much training is involved with a Briard and often become overwhelmed. It is suggested that the Briard is not for first time dog owners. However, if a new dog owner does want to have a Briard for a pet, it is suggested that they obtain professional assistance with training. One specific problem is their nipping at heels of people to herd them. This can be reduced or eliminated by respect training. The Briard is highly intelligent with an incredible memory and has the ability to independently remember tasks. They are capable of remembering a large vocabulary of commands. With the proper training they can be very affectionate and loyal family pets. It is very important for the owners to have patience and train with love and firmness to obtain the best behavior from the dog.

Briquet Griffon Vendeens

Life Span:12 years Litter Size:4 - 6 puppies with the average being 3-4 puppies Group:Gundog Recognized By:CKC, FCI, UKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:White/Orange, White/Gray, Black/Tan, Tricolored, Solid Fawn, Solid Orange, Solid Gray, Solid Light Brown. Hair Length:Long, Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:20 - 22 inches Male Weight:48 - 53 pounds Female Height:20 - 22 inches Female Weight:48 - 53 pounds

Living Area:The Briquet Griffon Vendeen adapts to city life very easily and will fit into an urban environment at a very early age. These dogs make good apartment dogs and fare well in small houses or households. They do not need to be chained up all day, as they require a steady amount of exercise to stay healthy, alert, and attentive. They enjoy staying in a kennel but will require some freedom to roam on occasion. These dogs can become particularly destructive if they are housebound for extended periods of time. They are compact, vivacious, and bold and constantly seeking adventure. As a result, they can become depressed or listless if they are not given an appropriate amount of attention.
Description

The Briquet Griffon Vendeen is a medium-sized dog with a notable shaggy white coat. "Briquet" translates to medium-sized and the Vendeen Griffon is a pouplar companion dog throughout Europe. It is a harmonious and level-headed dog that is distinguished from other sizes because of its rather stocky construction. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen first appeared mostly in France at around 1946 after several wars that lost the breed in the European dog circles temporarily. The dog has been used as a team dog for hunting wild boar, and a team of Briquets won the trophy of France on roe deer in 1995. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen is a very receptive and sensitive dog. It is stocky but well proportioned with a firm snout and long, dropping ears on the sides of its head. The head is medium-sized and the dog has a medium sized snout. The tail is short and will stick straight out when the dog is alert, anxious, or happy. This dog stands tall and confident, and has medium legs in proportion to its overall height and length. This light dog is often used for hunting small deer and there are two main sizes of the species. A rough coat and compact structure define these hounds, and they have a lively bearing and outlook. They have large, dark, and expressive eyes that show very little white; they also have a naturally friendly and intelligent expression. The ears are supple and narrow, and covered with long hair. The mouth has a scissor bite that is level and consistent. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen is a happy hound, is very willing to please and rarely aggressive. In the early days in Britain, the dog was simply coined "The Happy Breed." The dog has often been considered to be a working breed, with a lot of patience and is very secure. It needs its space but will be a very valuable companion.
Coat Description

The Briquet Griffon Vendeen has a thick and bushy double coat that is wiry to the touch. The outer coat is harsh and wiry; it may look as if it has an un-kempt or disheveled appearance but this is easily restored with the use of a paddle brush. The undercoat is soft and dense, providing warmth from the cooler climates that the dog was once used to. The hair is longer over the eyes and muzzle, and the dog has bushy eyebrows and a distinctive moustache. The coat color can range from white and orange, white and black, tricolored, and shades of orange and brown. Most of these colors are accepted by all breed clubs (see specific colors below).

History

The Briquet Griffon Vendeen originates from France, and is a descendant of the Vendeen hounds of the Gris de St. Louis. The World War II era eliminated many lines of this dog and they are still relatively unknown in France. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen is one of four rough-coated breeds from the west coast of France, mostly in the Vendee region. The Vendeen Hounds of Gris de St. Louis may have been the earliest ancestors of all four varieties. In France, the dog was bred down in size by the Comte d'Elva from the Grand Griffon Vendeen, a dog of similar construction but much larger in height and structure. It was a direct descendent of the Canis Segusius used by the Gauls. Many royal family members used the dog as a French show dog where it was restored, and now stands today. Although it is a rare breed, it continues to attract admirers from around the world. It is important to remember that these dogs were developed to hunt small game by scent, and are quite capable of hunting in different types of weather and climates. They are a hardy but friendly breed and will display their skills in a loving environment.
Temperament

Very intelligent with a strong work ethic, the Briquet Griffon Vendeen is a valuable addition to any family or working team of dogs. They are energetic, alert, and attentive and will enjoy a variety of actvities with companion dogs and owners. They are most comfortable with plenty of exercise and will need to be taken out for activities at least once per day. These dogs enjoy attention and will regularly wag their tails with happiness when they are comfortable and secure. They are particularly patient and will rarely become anxious or bark excessively. Tehse dogs make a fine noise when barking and have a pleasant voice. They are nimble on rough terrain and have been raised to run fast. They hunt with their noses rather than instinct, and thus make excellent hunting dogs. These dogs take inititave and can be trained very easily. They are naturally happy, extroverted, independent, and very willing to please. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen has considerable stamina and is robust and intelligent. They are self-learners and capable of working with even the most passionate hunters. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen is an obedient dog and will work with his master. These dogs adore affection and will train well with the right amount of positive motivation and feedback. These dogs are direct and decisive, but do have a tendency to be snappy if they are anxious, afraid, or have not received enough rest or attention. It is best to train them with firmness and an appropriate amount of attention on a regular basis. They are very loyal but can become spoiled with excessive attention. Making sure these dogs learn that they are not the master is an important part of the training process. The dog's character is well received by many families and children. The dogs are small, vivacious, and hardy. They are very active and alert, and are ready fro new activities with their companions and owners. These dogs do not do well with cats or other household pets that they may see as prey. The do well with friendly strangers, but cannot tolerate being alone for extended periods of time.

Health Problems

Generally a quite hardy breed, the Briquet Griffon Vendeen has a few special medical conditions to be aware of:
Collie Eye Anomaly: can cause blindness, but is not a progressive disease

Epilepsy: a neurological seizure disorder. There is no test for this. Deafness: Congenital Deafness can be a problem.

Hypothyroidism: dietary imbalances may contribute to this problem Food and skin Allergies: these dogs are fairly light in weight and attention to their Diet is required Grooming

The Briquet Griffon Vendeen has a medium/long coat that requires grooming on a regular basis. These dogs have naturally dense and wiry coats that are never wooly. They will need to be brushed with a wide-paddled brush on a regular basis, and this stimulates the skin as well. The dogs are fairly low maintenance, and shedding takes place rarely. A strong brushing once or twice per week should be enough to maintain the coat and keep it looking shiny. Since the coat is so dense and wiry, it tends to tangle easily and needs to be brushed out. The soft undercoat should be kept clean, and bathing is recommended when the dog has been in the outdoors for an extended period of time. Weekly brushing sessions will remove loose and dead hair, and bathing and drying routines should be conducted only when necessary. The dog often experiences food and skin allergies and these will need to be maintained with the appropriate medication and treatment. The front legs and tail of the dog need to be scrubbed clean, and the nails trimmed by a professional. Regular visits to the Vet will ensure that the dog does not have any major health problems, and this is especially important during tick season. Running on hard surfaces will cause the nails to become brittle and this is why it becomes so important that they are kept trim and in shape.
Exercise

The Briquet Griffon Vendeen requires regular exercise and they will have a high energy level throughout the day. If they are left alone for extended periods of time they will become restless and bored. The ideal workout for these dogs is a long walk or jog, followed by games played in

the park. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen fares well with dog toys such as balls, Frisbees, and other accessories. They are naturally curious and have a steady level of energy for a variety of activities. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen will exhaust its energy when it has plenty of activities to choose from, and it is in the owner's best interest to engage in a variety of activities such as running and walking on a regular basis. Letting the dog run off a leash is a good idea only in a safe and enclosed environment; these dogs tend to hunt with their noses and may drift off without the appropriate supervision. Physical activity is a priority for these natural hunters, and it is essential that they stay healthy and motivated to engage in actvitieis on a regular basis.
Training

The Briquet Griffon Vendeen is a very sensitive dog and can be trained very easily and methodically. It listens attentively to its master and these are dogs that are fairly easy to train by the average person. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen responds well to commands and will make sure that it follows directions. Although these dogs do not always need a task to complete, they do enjoy learning new tricks and skills. These dogs are intelligent and will respond immediately to directions. The puppy is easiest to train as they are very willing to please. Still, it is important for them to learn that they are not the master and early socialization and obedience training are recommended. Early socialization will help them interact with other dogs and learn how to be patient and fair with others. They can be taken to a dog park, allowed to mingle with other dogs within a household, or simply be introduced to other puppies in the neighborhood while they are restrained. Making sure they are engaged in positive play will help them enhance their strength and skills, and these dogs make excellent playmates and companions after initial training. Obedience training may take some time, especially if training a dog that may have already reached maturity. However, it is still possible for these dogs to learn as they age, especially when they learn to trust their masters; they will quickly become respectful and obedient after a period of bonding. The Briquet Griffon Vendeen tends to do this rather quickly and this is one reason why they do well with young children and younger households. Highly energetic and eager to learn, these dogs learn well when they are dealt with fairness, patience, consistency, and reward. They also need ongoing repetition and formulating a training program that accommodates these needs will be most beneficial in the long-term. The training program should begin as early as 10-12 weeks when the puppy is eager to learn and flexible with their actions and behaviors. These dogs respond well to behavioral and obedience training using physical rewards, as well as consistent affection. These dogs train well in a playful environment and are highly energetic; they need ongoing attention and respond well to positive reinforcement and motivation. The best way to train them is from the puppy stages, making sure they receive enough attention and direction. A steady but firm tone is best for these dogs since they need guidelines and structure.

Brittanys
Life Span:10 and 12 years. Litter Size:1 and 11 puppies. However, the average is approximately 6 puppies. Group:Sporting Dog

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:There are several color patterns of the Brittany. There is orange with white, liver with white, roan patterns, or tri-colored. Tri-colored dogs are described as a liver and white dog with orange markings on the eyebrows, muzzle, and cheeks. Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:17.5- 20.5 inches Male Weight:35- 40 pounds Female Height:17.5- 20.5 inches Female Weight:30- 40 pounds Living Area:The Brittany is a highly energetic dog and needs plenty of exercise. Therefore it is essential for the dog to have lots of space to run. They typically do best on acreage. However, they will adjust to living in a house with a fenced yard as long as they have time to run and play daily. The Brittany cause destructively chew things when left alone for long periods of time so it can be helpful for the dog to be caged while they are home alone. The dog will adjust to this when it is started at an early age. They are highly active indoor dogs as well and therefore apartment life is not recommended. They are companion dogs and therefore it is recommended that they are purchased in pairs. Having two Brittanies, especially where they have room to play and ru,n can be helpful for maintaining the necessary level of activity.
Description

Many breeders do make a differentiation between the American Brittany and the French style Brittany, however, they are considered subsets of the same breed. There are some recognizable differences found. For instance, the American Brittany is taller and faster whereas the French Brittany is more "spaniel-like" in its smaller stature and tends to work more closely with the

guns. The Brittany has a very athletic appearance and should never appear to be heavily built. Their appearance is to be elegant, compact, and long-legged. Brittany's can be born with either short or long tails. Long tails are typically docked to the length of about 1 to 4 inches. In countries where tail docking is illegal, long tailed Brittany will carry their tails level with their back or slightly lower. The Brittany is a hunting dog. This gives them their agility and stamina. The Brittany although smaller, is still a very muscular dog without appearing to be heavy set. They have been well adapted to working in the field and this appears in many of its characteristics. There are heavy eyebrows and deep set eyes to protect the eyes from briars. They have a deep set chest and wellsprung ribs which allow them to have endurance for a day of hunting. The Brittany has extremely muscular thighs and substantial angulation to allow them to propel quickly through brush and trees to find and search for birds. Their skin is also loose enough to roll so that puncture wounds and skin injury are lessened when the dog is running through the brush. The Brittany is still commonly used as hunting dogs because of their moderate size. This makes them easily transportable. They are used especially for hunting woodcock, partridge, and hare. They are highly energetic and rarely tire.
Coat Description

The coat of the Brittany is slightly wavy and dense coat that lies flat. The Brittany is a single coat dog. It is not curly but some feathering on the legs does occur. Minimal feathering is preferred over excessive feathering. Excessive feathering on the legs can eliminate them from being able to appear in competition. The texture of the coat should not be wiry or silky. Some fringing does appear on the ears as well. Orange can also appear in the inside of the ear, under the tail, and some freckles on the legs. Black is a disqualifying color. The American Kennel Club and the Canadian Kennel Club do not recognize black as an acceptable color.
History

The origin of the Brittany is somewhat unknown. There is speculation of it being the cross of an Orange and White Setter and some not clearly identified French dog. The dog is suggested to have originated in the French province of Brittany. The Brittany was first shown in 1896. It is one of the most popular pointing dogs for bird hunting. It is considered to be the smallest of the gun dogs. The Brittany to this day is still used widely for its work as a hunting and gun dog.
Temperament

The Brittany is a highly intelligent and obedient dog due to its history as a hunting dog. They are eager to please and have a very loving and gentle personality. However, they are highly independent and are considered to be free thinkers. They are consistently happy and enthusiastic. This makes them very good natured and easy to care for. However, it must be noted that the

Brittany must be raised around children from puppyhood to be well mannered around them. Some are also known to be very nervous and hyperactive. Typically the Brittany has a very jolly personality and makes a very good companion dog. The Brittany is not a dog for everyone. They tend to become hyperactive and experience separation anxiety when left alone. This can make them destructive around the home. They also tend to whine and bark excessively when excited or stressed. They are very inquisitive and enjoy sniffing and therefore will follow their nose until they are completely out of sight. They are also known to show some fearfulness towards people when they are not properly socialized from a young age. The Brittany is also very sensitive to stressful situations. For instance, if people in the home are arguing or there are family troubles the Brittany will pick up on it and become very nervous. This is when the dog will become withdrawn and anxious and start to whine or bark. Brittany dogs deserve to be in a calm, harmonious, and loving home. The Brittany tends to get bored very easily and needs to have consistent mental and physical entertainment. It is important for the dog to have both mental and physical stimulation in order to prevent destructive chewing and excessive barking. This rambunctious behavior can become intolerable so it is important for the owner to ensure that the dog receives enough mental and physical stimulation. The best physical stimulation for the Brittany is a long run in a field or swimming playing fetch. They also exhibit a natural softness that can cause problems as well. It is important for the Brittany to be socialized at an early age so that the softness does not turn into fearfulness or shyness. Brittanies are also known to have dribbling and urination when they become overly anxious or excitable. It should be mentioned that the Brittany can have a range of personalities and therefore all the above temperament positives and negatives may or may not apply. Some can be very lovable and timid. These are the Brittanies that could never be used as a hunting or gun dog because they will react to loud noises. Others are very outgoing and playful and love to be around people.
Health Problems Glaucoma: Is an increased pressure within the eye. The drain in the eye becomes closed or clogged but the eye continues to produce fluid. This can cause the eye to stretch and enlarge. Glaucoma can be both a genetic problem and a secondary problem when another eye condition causes the increase of fluid.

Spinal Paralysis: Can cause hind leg paralysis. There has been recent research to Show that cells in the spinal cord can be redeveloped.

hip dysplasia: Can cause joint stiffness and pain. It resembles arthritis like symptoms. This is a genetic condition and therefore if it is not found in their line of Breeding, they will not develop it.

Grooming

The Brittany's level of grooming can be noted as minimal or moderate. The medium length flat coat needs to be brushed on a regular basis to keep it in good condition. Brushing should be done twice weekly. The Brittany is light shedder. Regular bathing is necessary for the Brittany as well. The dog should be washed with a specialty dog shampoo. It is important to avoid using human shampoo or liquid soap because this causes skin irritation. Bathing should occur about once a month or whenever necessary. Over bathing can cause skin dryness. It is also important to rinse all the soap thoroughly to avoid skin irritation from the soap residue. Bathing the Brittany can be easily done at home in the bath tub due to its smaller stature. If the dog is being used for hunting or spends a lot of time out in the brush, it is important to check the ears thoroughly for matter or debris. The dog's love for water can cause them to get mucky or dirty faster and therefore bathing may be more frequent than with other breeds. In addition to this, it is extremely important for the dog to be checked over for ticks with particular attention to the eyes and ears. Professional grooming of the Brittany may be necessary if the dog is for show. There are very specific requirements for show ring grooming of the Brittany. Otherwise the Brittany is a very low maintenance dog for grooming.
Exercise

Brittany is a highly energetic dog and needs a high level of activity. It is essential that the dog gets daily activity consisting of running, walking, or biking. They also love to be in the water. They are the perfect pet for a very energetic person or family. They are also the perfect pet for a hunter who can have the dog for its working purpose. The Brittany adapts to different terrain consisting of hills, woods, or plains. This allows them to go on family outings or hikes and because of their endurance they can keep up easily. However, they are resistant to the cold and damp conditions. One of its favorite things to do is retrieve things from the water. This makes them an excellent dog to take to the lake on family outings. Their history as a gun and hunting dog and their love for the water makes them excellent fetching dogs. Fetching in water is a great way for the Brittany to get its exercise.
Training

The Brittany does have softness about their nature and therefore it is important for the dog to be socialized at an early age to prevent fearfulness or shyness from developing. Puppies should be brought to new places and around new people from a very early age. This will allow them to become comfortable in new circumstances. If the dog is going to be kept in a kennel or cage when the owners are not home, it is important to train the dog from an early age to be quiet in the cage. The Brittany is prone to excessive barking and therefore this should be handled from a very young age.

They are also a very excitable and rambunctious breed so it may be necessary as well to train them about having proper house manners. Get the dog used to knowing what is and is not acceptable behavior when it comes to jumping, barking, and chewing. They can become destructive when left alone for long periods of time so manners training can be very important. The Brittany's obedience training should be motivational and gentle. This breed responds best to love and they are eager to please so any training that is harsh or domineering is counter productive. Because the Brittany is a hunting and gun dog there are some specifics to training them for this purpose. There are several organizations that can professionally train the Brittany as a gun dog. There are also several books and articles that can help as well. However, more than likely if you are using the dog as a gun dog or hunting dog you have experience in the area and are capable of training the dog yourself. Professional help is always available when needed. However, it is important to note that Brittanies can have several different ranges of personality and some that are very timid and shy may react to loud noises and cannot be trained as a gun or hunting dog.

Brussels Griffons
Life Span:13-15 years Litter Size:2-3 pups at a time Group:The Griffon is categorized in the Terrier and toy groups. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, NKC, APRI Color:The Griffon comes in red, black or black and tan, with no particular color being more popular than the other. Hair Length:Medium, Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed, Moderate Shed Male Height:7-8 inches or 18-20cm Male Weight:6-12 pounds or 2.5-5.5kg Female Height:7-8 inches or 18-20cm Female Weight:6-12 pounds or 2.5-5.5kg Living Area:The petite stature of the Griffon makes it suitable for apartment size living. Although not very big, the breed does enjoy being active. However, because it has a strong

attachment to its owner, it is a breed that prefers to stay close and does not do well when left outside for long periods of time.
Description

The Brussels Griffon is a breed most memorable for its unique and distinguishing look. The trio of wide set eyes, flat face and prominent chin coupled with their cheerful terrier disposition has won the dog a small but dedicated following. Its expression is commonly said to characterize that of an elf or monkey. Although grouped in the toy category, the Griffon is quite a sturdy, stocky breed with thick square proportions, their stance commonly compared to that of a Boxer. The body is somewhat short yet holds the large head well. Both the ears and tail can be cropped although this is not a requirement. In fact, cropping is a practice that is largely falling by the wayside. The Griffon will either be found wearing what is called a rough coat or smooth coat. A rough coat consists of coarse, wiry hair, while the smooth coat is glossy with hair that is flat and close to the body. Neither is more popular than the other; however, the smooth coat allows one to better see the Griffon's unique features. For instance, one can see the slightly arched neck that gives way to a solid barrel chest. One can also see the graceful line that leads up into a slender waist and strong hind legs. The breed is a better pick for older couples or adults who live alone and want or need a companion with whom to share every moment. Because the breed has a tendency to be sensitive to sound and sudden action and children tend to naturally exhibit these types of behavior, the two are not recommended for each other. The two natures combined often result in an unfortunate situation where a well intentioned child ends up with a painful nip when the sensitive Griffon is inadvertently frightened.
Coat Description

When it comes to the Brussels Griffon, there are two different types of coats to consider. The most common is referred to as the rough coat, aptly earning its name from the coarse wiry hair that requires brushing at least twice a week to keep matting at bay. The smooth coat is rather glossy with hair that is flat and close to the body from head to tail.
History

Reaching back into their 17th century beginnings in Belgium, the small Brussels Griffon was bred to rid stables of vermin, just as many small breeds were back in the day. However, their diminutive stature and endearing character made them suitable for accompanying coach drivers on their routes from time to time. Soon, their reputation as a companion animal grew between the working class and nobility until they were presented in a dog show sometime in the late 1800's. Their popularity grew further from there as a number of breeders also took interest in the dog, boosting its numbers. However, during World War I and II, the breed dwindled to near extinction. With virtually no Griffons left in Belgium, breeders in other parts of Europe helped to bring numbers back up, although barely. Interest in the Brussels Griffon peaks form time to time

with occasional appearances on movies or TV. These days, the breed is still considered rare, putting a strain on available breeding stocks, especially when it comes to unscrupulous or amateur backyard breeders. To ensure purity of line, breeders now require signed contracts obliging new owners to have their pup spayed or neutered by a certain date.
Temperament

The temperament of the Griffon rests largely on the foundation of being part of the terrier breed. This means they are all heart, endearing themselves to their owners. Where ever their owner goes, the Griffon will automatically follow. In fact, the tiny blessing is not so much meant to be a family pet as it is a constant companion. It would not be out of the question to see this breed of dog accompanying its owner almost as an escort. As many have come to find, the elfin animal is one that greatly relies on regular contact with its owner. It has not been known to do well when left alone for long periods of time. Part of the reason a Griffon is so dependent is its sensitive nature. They are not an overly shy or aggressive animal and quite often are noted for the smug or superior look they give when at ease with the world. However, they rely on consistency and a low key environment to be at their best. This is a large reason why they do not do well as a family pet, especially when there are extremely small children in the household. They are a breed that loves to be lavished with attention but can also be easily overstimulated, making them seem somewhat moody. Those who spend a great deal of time with their Griffon are able to sense exactly what is acceptable for their dog's particular personality and just how much they will tolerate. While they love to be the center of attention, the Griffon is perfectly happy to have a companion or two, whether another dog or other small household pet. There have been occasions when a Griffon, having a rather slim concept of its own size, has been known to try and assert his or her dominance with a dog much larger than itself. Socialization from an early age can help to keep this to a minimum. Socialization is also necessary for this breed because of its rare look. It is not uncommon for passersby to comment on the Griffon and want to take a closer look or offer a pat on the head. However, the Griffon is one that can be wary of strangers and may feel threatened. He or she may abruptly snap at the stranger out of sheer nature. Socialization at an early age can also help keep this to a minimum. Politely requesting that strangers not touch the dog can also help in this situation. In general, a Griffon will keep to his or her master, warming up to others on its own terms. Not outwardly aggressive, they can be shy with new people and situations. Although they will bark should the doorbell ring, unless they are excessively lonely, they are not a breed prone to the habit of barking at all times of the day and night. They prefer a calm environment and for the most part will avoid confrontation to the best of their ability.

Health Problems

While Griffons suffer common canine maladies no more or less than any other breed, they will, at times, suffer ailments due to their unique facial anatomy, such as the prominent wide set eyes.
stenotic nares, also known as narrowed nostrils, combined with extended soft palates can sometimes hinder breathing protopsis or the prolapse/expulsion of the eyeball

eyeball lacerations Cataracts

distichiasis

Progressive Retinal Atrophy difficult whelping, often requiring a vet to perform a Cesarean section Miniature breeds are known to suffer from hydrocephalus (the Breeding of miniature Griffons is highly discouraged) Grooming

The Griffon comes in either a rough coat or smooth coat, each requiring its own amount of upkeep. The rough coat is one that sheds less than the smooth coat but a rough coat also requires hand stripping. Clipping is sorely advised against when it comes to a rough coat. Hand stripping is the act of removing blown, or dead grown out hair, by grasping hairs between the forefinger and thumb and gently removing in the direction of the hair growth. The hair comes out easily without any stress to the animal. The result is a smoother, more even coat. It is not a difficult task, although for the untrained individual, it can span over a day to complete. A professional groomer is likely to complete a stripping in 1-2 hours. Facial hair is often lightly trimmed and shaped with scissors. For smooth coats, the regular use of a grooming mitt can keep seasonal shedding down to a minimum. Folds in the skin on the face of a smooth coated dog should be inspected and cleaned regularly. Left unchecked, these folds that trap dirt and debris can become malodorous, if not infected.

For show dogs, there are times when coats can become damaged due to constant washing and blow drying that inadvertently disperses necessary body oils. It is times like these when a pHalkaline balanced shampoo should be used to restore balance to the coat. For Griffons with facial hair, it is also necessary to comb through whiskers from time to time to remove food particles and prevent matting.
Exercise

Exercise for the Griffon need not be overly extensive as their diminutive stature allows them to get plenty of exercise even when indoors. They enjoy daily walks and romps outside but are not prime candidates for extreme distance walks or jogging. There are some clubs of Griffon owners who set their dogs in small obstacle courses that bring out their skills as ratters, the purpose for which they were originally intended. The Griffon shows adept skill at weaving in and out of small spaces and also ducking under and jumping over small obstacles. Their energetic personality is easy to see during these exciting events. Groups dedicated to the promotion and care of the Griffon breed often sponsor these shows and other activities for Griffon owners to take part in. These organizations can often be found by going online or contacting a local kennel club. Information on training Griffons for these events as well as the requirements for sign up and entry fees are readily available. Events are often scheduled to move from one region to another each year.
Training

The Brussels Griffon is a small sensitive dog, making training a large sensitive issue. While the terrier in them wants nothing more than to please their owner, they can at times seem willful and stubborn. However, heavy handed techniques or harsh tactics are an absolute thumbs down for this breed. It will not take much to put them on the side of caution. Once they have been intimidated, it can take even more time and patience to get to a place where they are ready to work on the issue again. Sensitivity will be required when training this small petite animal. Another bonus to training is that owners can get better insight into their Griffon's personality, which can at times seem a little bit moody. For the most part, obedience training is an easy task, especially since the Griffon has the opportunity to bond even more with the owner. As many have found, housebreaking a Griffon can prove to be somewhat difficult, although not impossible. The best course of action is to work a rather flexible schedule with the dog, removing items such as expensive rugs until the dog's maturity catches up with the training process. For many breeds, it is the progression of maturity that allows the dog to better process information. As always, consistency is a must. Although they tend to balk at new experiences, with encouragement Griffons are known to do quite well with leash training at around 6-8 weeks of age. It is important to use a lead that is of an appropriate size to ensure a smooth training process. Classes that offer alternative disciplining measures are a best bet for owners and their Griffons.

Gentle training methods for this breed can include the use of praise, treats, clickers and good old fashioned patience.

Bull Terriers
Life Span:10-14 years Litter Size:1-9 puppies per litter with 4-5 the average Group:Mastiff, AKC Terrier Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:white or any color with white markings. Brindle, fawn, brown and tan are common colors with or without white markings. Hair Length:Short Size:Medium, Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:20-24 inches (51-61 cm) Male Weight:45-80 pounds (20-36 kg) Female Height:20-24 inches (51-61 cm) Female Weight:45-80 pounds (20-36 kg) Living Area:The Bull terrier can live in small spaces such as an apartment with enough exercise. They will do well with a small, fenced yard and regular walks. As a short haired dog they prefer being indoors than outside and cannot tolerate extreme cold.

Description

The Bull terrier is a strong, athletic and energetic dog that is capable of doing a multitude of tasks including watch dogging and protecting as well as agility and obedience events. They are also ideal family dogs with clownish personalities and a loving temperament when properly trained and socialized. The Bull terrier has a very distinctive head and is rarely mistaken for any other breed by those that are familiar with their characteristics. The head is almost totally oval in profile from the

skull through to the tip of the nose. The shape of the face should be full without any hollow areas or concavity to the profile. The eyes are very small and almond shaped, centered towards the middle of the head for a distinct appearance. In some literature the eyes are described as triangular in shape, and in some Bull terriers this is a very accurate description. The eyes should be located closer to the ears than to the nose, adding to the appearance of length on the face below the eyes. The ears are very pointed and rather thin, placed close together on the top of the skull. They should be relaxed most of the time but can be held absolutely erect with the dog is attending to something. The neck is thick and slightly arching and longer than that of most mastiff or bulldog types. The shoulders are heavy set and well developed with a very deep and wide chest. The front legs are stocky and short, well set to the outside of the deep chest. The brisket or bottom of the chest should be significantly deeper than the abdomen area. The back is short and strong looking with muscular loins and a well developed rib cage. Although the appearance is solid the body should not look overly heavy or disproportionate to the rest of the dog. The legs of the Bull terrier should be strong with good bones and excellent conformation. They should neither turn out or in at the knees or hocks or at the feet. The feet are round and arched, similar to that of a cat. The dog should be light on his or her feet, and should not shuffle or drag the feet in any gait, although they do often appear to almost roll from side to side when in movement. The movement should appear smooth and fluid with a good length to the strides and a typical "I am in control" attitude present in the movement. The tail of the Bull terrier is moderately long and set low on the hindquarters. It is usually carried horizontal with the ground and is tapered from the thick base to the tip at the end. The skin of the Bull terrier should be tight against the body without noticeable wrinkles or folds anywhere on the body.
Coat Description

The coat of the Bull terrier is extremely short, fine and harsh in texture and is very flat against the body. It is prone to shedding throughout the year with heavier shedding in the spring and summer as the coat changes. The Bull terrier should have a natural sheen to the coat regardless of the coloration.
History

The Bull terrier was originally developed in the early 1800's when bull baiting was considered a sport. The goal of the early breeders was to create the ideal bull baiting dog that would be strong, fearless and brave. They crossed the Old English Terrier with the Bulldog as well as a Spanish Pointer breed. The resulting typically white dog was unique in appearance as well as very strong, but was not ideal in the brutal bull baiting ring. The temperament and unique appearance of the Bull terrier attracted many individuals at that time and they where quickly selected as a watchdog and companion breed of dog. At this time the breeders began to breed out the aggressive tendencies and this has continued.

The all white Bull terrier was originally known as the White Cavalier and was a favorite watchdog of royalty. It continues to be the most commonly known color of the Bull terrier although several other color varieties are common and desirable.
Temperament

The Bull terrier is a fun loving, people loving and highly attentive type of dog. Their unique face shape often makes them appear very focused and attentive to their owners, and they are known to seem to understand what the owner is thinking and planning to do. As a breed they are often described as clownish despite their rather aggressive start in the dog world. Now the breed is known as a gentle, kind dog rather than the fighting dog it originally was intended as. The Bull terrier requires human attention and interaction to be happy and secure. They absolutely love children and are energetic and sturdy enough to be wonderful companions for kids of all ages. Younger children may need time to get used to the affectionate and somewhat energetic play of the Bull terrier. The Bull terrier, as with many terrier breeds, becomes rather possessive and jealous of both people and objects so needs to be taught to share. Teasing is also a problem with this breed and children and adults must learn not to engage in any type of play the dog may misinterpret as teasing. They are not considered appropriate for a home where they would be alone more than they are in the presence of the family or where they would be kept in a kennel. The Bull terrier is a good watchdog and will bark to notify the family when a stranger approaches, however they are not likely to be highly protective or be an effective guard dog, it is simply not in their nature to be aggressive towards people. With other dogs however the Bull terrier can be very dog aggressive if not socialized at a young age. Male Bull terriers that are intact are the most aggressive and are not recommended for homes with other intact males or even neutered males of dominant types of breeds. Males and females that are spayed and neutered can become good companions for each other, but slow introductions or raising them together from puppies is recommended. The Bull terrier has a high prey drive and is not appropriate for homes with other pets. Sometimes, when raised together from a very young age, the Bull terrier will get along well with cats, however this does require a lot of care and supervision by the owner.
Health Problems

Like all dogs there are genetic and Health Problems found in the Bull Terrier breed. Buying from a reputable breeder and checking the history of the bloodlines for any possible Health problems is also advisable. The most common health conditions include:
patellar luxation - dislocated kneecaps, common in most medium to small breeds.

 Skin Allergies - this breed is prone to flea and environmental allergies

Zinc Deficiency - Lethal Acrodermatitis, seen by small birth weights and sizes, skeletal deformities, sores, fading of the coat and failure to grow. There are various treatments but most are unsuccessful.

Obsessive Compulsive Disorder - prone to activities such as chronic tail chasing, scratching, chewing, anxiety type behaviors. Can be treated somewhat effectively with medications. Deafness - all white Bull terriers are prone to either being born deaf or going deaf very shortly after birth. As with all breeds the Bull terrier will require regular health check ups and worming and flea treatments. Regular yearly vaccinations will also be essential for good Health. Grooming

Grooming the Bull terrier is very simple and this makes it an ideal dog for those that don't have time for elaborate grooming routines. A weekly rub down with a rubber grooming mitt or stiff bristle brush is all that is required. Checking the ears and the eyes for any sign of irritation or discharge at this time is also important. While the breed is not prone to eye or ear infections it is always a great idea to check regularly to catch any potential problems before they become an issue. A chamois cloth can be used after grooming to add a natural sheen to the hard, flat coat of the Bull terrier. These dogs are very clean and do not require regular bathing unless it is required. They do shed an average amount and grooming will help prevent loose hairs from showing up all over the furniture. The Bull terrier has two slightly heavier shedding times, one in the spring and once in the fall. During these periods additional grooming will help remove the dead hair. The nails of the Bull terrier are very hard and typically will stay worn down if the dog is exercised on streets or sidewalks. If, however, the nails become long they can cause lameness and tenderness of the feet, so always check the length. The bottom of the nail should not be lower than the bottom of the pad or it will actually push the nail up and into the pad, just like a long toenail on a person pushes into the foot when in a shoe. A guillotine type trimmer that slips over the end of the nail and then slices the nail off flat it is the best option. Care must be taken not to cut in the quick as this is very sensitive and will bleed profusely if cut. A vet or groomer can show you the correct way to trim the nails if you are not familiar with the process.
Exercise

The Bull terrier is a very athletic dog that enjoys regular, extended exercise as much as possible. They can adapt to less exercise but are also prone to putting on weight, so care must be taken to provide a good balance between food intake and exercise. Without someone to exercise with or

something structured to do the Bull terrier will often not self-exercise much and tend to become rather lazy. Taking the Bull terrier on regular walks is a great way to keep both the dog and the owner in shape and provide some outside time together. Since the Bull terrier is dog aggressive it is very important to keep these dogs on a leash as they may fight other dogs or even chase other animals with no regard towards traffic. The Bull terrier makes a great jogging companion or hiking friend. They also love to get out in the yard or park and run and play with the kids, which they will do for hours given the chance. Exercising the Bull terrier is often very easy, as they will simply want to be with the family no matter what is happening. They can get exercise in the home as well by following people around the house provided they are allowed to roam throughout. Without proper exercise or with long or even relatively short periods of confinement or inactivity the Bull terrier will start to develop very problematic habits. They are known to chew and destroy objects in the home as well as become problem barkers, tail chasers and even resort to messing in the house to display their displeasure with being alone. Before leaving the Bull terrier in the house or yard it is important to provide some type of structured exercise to help the dog cope with being alone.
Training

Training the Bull terrier is critical to ensuring that the dog is well behaved and well mannered both in and outside of the home. They do need regular interaction and socialization with other dogs and people to minimize the risk that they will become highly dog aggressive and overly possessive of their home and family. As a dominant breed of dog they need firm and consistent yet positive and loving training, especially as puppies. Establishing that the humans are in control with these dogs is critical, as they will quickly develop bad habits if they think that they are in control. The Bull terrier is a very intelligent dog and will learn who he or she needs to listen to and which family members they can ignore or respond in a limited way too. One person should initially work with the puppy until the commands are understood, then the others in the family should also work with the dog. The Bull terrier often will simply ignore the commands of those it seems as "below" it on the family hierarchy, so everyone must work with the dog. As an energetic and active dog, especially as a puppy, the Bull terrier should never be engaged in games that pit strength of people against the strength of the dog. Wrestling or tug-of-war type games are likely to increase dominance type behaviors as well as possessiveness and territoriality. In addition they are often prone to jumping up with their front feet on people, something which is often frightening to kids and adults alike, so teaching them to sit for attention is important. Lead or leash training is essential for the breed at an early age. A Bull terrier should always be controlled when outside of the yard, particularly intact males. Early leash training through an obedience program is important as with proper socialization these dogs can be taught to be off the leash.

Many people choose to use their Bull terriers in obedience and agility type events. This breed can excel at these competitions and are eager and willing to perform in front of crowds or groups. Their natural fearlessness and good humor is evident in their attitude towards the competition.

Bullmastiffs
Life Span:8 to 10 years, though some have lived up to 14 years Litter Size:4 - 13 puppies with the average little size being 8. Group:AKC Working, Utility, Guardian Dogs

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Fawn or Brindle or Red, each with Black markings on the head.

Hair Length:Short Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:25-27 inches (63-69 cm.) Male Weight:110-133 pounds (50-60 kg.) Female Height:24-26 inches (61-66 cm.) Female Weight:100-120 pounds (45-54 kg.) Living Area:The Bullmastiff doesn't need a lot of space to be happy, so an apartment can be an ideal living space, so long as it is able to get sufficient exercise time. This is a breed that won't really move around too much when it's indoors, but will enjoy a small yard if you have one. It's good to note that they aren't tolerant of extreme weather conditions or temperatures. You will also not want to have a separate pen or kennel for this particular breed. They will want to be close to the family they are protecting and loyal to. If this breed can be in the house and at least near to you, that's going to keep its mind at ease.

Description

The Bullmastiff is a strong looking dog at first glance - and first impressions are correct. With a sold body frame and a powerful stance, this breed can be quite intimidating to the everyday person that encounters it. But while this stocky build appears to be awkward, the overall frame of the Bullmastiff can be quite agile. The head has wrinkled skin on the surface and is broad in size, though short. The square shape contains a muzzle that's about one third of the entire head's size with a dark coloring. With a black nose and larger nostrils, the Bullmastiff is punctuated by piercing hazel eyes that have a focused and intelligent appearance. The ears of the Bullmastiff are set wide on the head and are dark in color and have a v shape. The shortened back portion of this breed is straight and is on the same level as the loin and the withers of the dog. The tail is set high and tapers, reaching to the backs of the legs. With such an impressive look, it's no wonder the Bullmastiff is a menacing dog that can help with guarding your family or a single person. Very alert in nature, this is a dog that will protect whoever it deems to be worth protecting. In this loyalty, training can be tricky, but if you start at a young age and work to consistently build trust, you will have a protector and a friend for a long time.
Coat Description

The fur of a Bullmastiff is short and thin, making this breed unable to deal with extreme temperature changes. The short and rough coat can come in a number of colors and patterns (see Colors below) and in consistent in length and texture throughout the body.
History

The Bullmastiff is thought to be a cross between the Bulldog and the English Mastiff with a rich history. This is a breed that was originally bred to search out and to stop poachers, but then became a part of the family setting. The combination of the two breeds is about 60% Mastiff and 40% of Bulldog. Then the dog was used as a hunting dog and then as a watchdog by the Diamond Society of South Africa. Recognized as a purebred by the English Kennel Club in 1924, it was soon followed with recognition by the American Kennel Club in 1933.
Temperament

Loyal isn't strong enough of a word to use to describe the Bullmastiff. This is a dog breed that's often called courageous for its ability and desire to protect those it feels it needs to protect. This protective instinct is not punctuated by a fierce attacking stance, however, but rather an action to divert the danger away from the person that is being threatened. While the Bullmastiff will attack if it feels that is the only option, generally speaking, it will simply just stand between the stranger/intruder and the person the dog is protecting.

The usual response in highly threatening situations is for the dog to physically stop the danger, but if that doesn't work, the dog will catch the intruder and knock them down, holding them until they are told to let them go. Often, this dog will simply "mouth" on the intruder and not bite them, making them a great watchdog or companion when you're out at night. However, just like any other dog that's fearful for its life, in certain situations, it will bite and attack more aggressively. What should be noted about its protective nature is that the Bullmastiff is protective of PEOPLE, and not necessarily "things." So, they aren't necessarily a good choice if you want to protect your home when you're not around, as they may not feel the draw to protect 'things.' The Bullmastiff is a dog that will become attached to its family quite quickly. And in the presence of these people it trusts, it will be docile and loving. Calm by nature, this dog breed is fearless and willful at the same time. If they are trained when they are young, they can be the perfect dog for a family, even with children. But the dog will need to be trained to not act out with children. In any case, even with training, leaving the child alone in the room with the dog is not advised, especially when the child is young. The dog can accidentally run or bump into the child, causing injuries. Depending on the Bullmastiff, it may or may not get along with other dogs. This largely depends on whether it has been socialized with other dogs when it was young. In many cases, the male Bullmastiff will not do well with other male dogs, so this can be problematic. And in even rarer cases, female Bullmastiffs can be intolerant of other females.
Health Problems

Though the Bullmastiff is a healthy and athletic dog, it is prone to several Health Problems:
hip dysplasia - A common occurrence in dogs. This is a condition in which the hip joint wears down, causing pain and problems with mobility. Owners can choose to treat with pain medications, activity, and sometimes surgery in severe cases. Occurs over time. elbow dysplasia - The same situation as hip dysplasia, but in the elbow area. Often caused by the larger bond structure of this particular breed.

PRA ( Progressive Retinal Atrophy ) - The retina begins to deteriorate, causing troubles with sight in the dog.

Hypothyroidism - A slowed thyroid condition that can cause the body to not function properly. Treatment can include thyroid replacement supplements and monitoring of thyroid levels.

 Entropion - The inward rolling of the eyelid.

Lymphoma cancer - Quite common in this breed and can progress rapidly, beginning with fatigue and lethargy, then pain and problems with basic activities and functions. Often results in the need for chemotherapy or other cancer therapies, but many times require euthanasia. Grooming

The coat of the Bullmastiff is short and rough, making it simple to take care of for most owners. Regular brushing will help you manage the shine and the health of the fur. Using a short coarse bristle brush on the fur at least once a week will allow you to remove any dead or loose fur from the exterior of the dog. This will also help you minimize the shedding that the Bullmastiff is sometimes associated with. Some owners swear that you WILL have Bullmastiff fur on everything you own - even if you're brushing it regularly. The short hairs tend to stick to everything and anything they come into contact with. Shampoo this breed whenever you feel it's necessary, but it's not something you need to do on a regular basis. If your dog has gotten into something particularly dirty, just give it a simple bath and be sure to check their feet to be sure that nothing has injured them or gotten in their pads. Since this is a heavier breed, you will also want to check their nails regularly and trim them to prevent problems. Just as with any breed, if you let your Bullmastiff outside, you will want to check for ticks or fleas before they come back into the house. If you should notice anything that seems unfamiliar or dangerous, be sure to talk to your vet about the next step. Often, you will need to bring your dog into the vet's office for further examination of the ears, mouth, and nose as well as the skin. Unusual smells that come from your dog will also need a checkup by the vet.
Exercise

While you might think the Bullmastiff breed is going to want to run around, asserting itself, it's actually quite the opposite. This is a dog that will actually prefer to be lazy and to lay around the house - perfect for the not so active person. However, this isn't a healthy practice for them, so it's advised that you take this dog out for regular exercise and daily walks to encourage this dog to stay in shape. Since this is a bigger dog, you will want to make sure the dog is getting regular exercise to avoid weight gain, which could hasten the appearance of certain health problems, like hip dysplasia. Taking this dog along on walks will help to keep them in shape, but they will need to be trained not to pull on the leash. In addition to a regular exercise program, you will want to make sure you are monitoring how much the Bullmastiff eats. As this breed is prone to putting on weight, it's advised that you follow the vet's directions implicitly in terms of feeding.

Training

With such a strong appearance, the Bullmastiff is impressive enough in its natural abilities of intimidation, but you need to get a handle on training this dog breed early in its life. Because of the strong need to protect the family it's with or the person that it deems its owner, you will need to find ways to control this protective instinct without snuffing it out. This can begin with socializing the Bullmastiff when it's a puppy. Allow this dog to interact with other puppies to help it become more used to other dogs; if that's the setting you bring it home to. If you are going to have a family setting around the Bullmastiff, you will want to bring it home as a puppy so that it learns who it needs to feel are its family. When children grow up with this dog breed, there can be a very playful and loving relationship. These dogs can be quite affectionate with those they are owned by and will be protective once this relationship is established - without additional training from you. As a part of its nature, the Bullmastiff is going to be a drooler and a snorer, so be ready for these behaviors when you first bring this dog home. Puppies will tend to be awkward too when they're first in the home, but they will gain their agility quickly as they get older. These Bullmastiffs respond to your tone of voice as they are quite sensitive to the changes, so be sure to remember this when you are training them and maintain a consistent tone. It can help to bring this dog breed to obedience classes, if possible in your area, but you will need to maintain their lessons once they come home. Consistency is a big thing to keep in mind with this dog breed, as with nearly every breed. They need to know that you are the one that's in charge and that for certain behaviors, they will be reprimanded or scolded, but for others, they will be praised. However, it's never a good idea to send a Bullmastiff to a kennel or pen if they have not behaved correctly or even as a part of their natural routine. They want to be around people and can become irritated and hard to manage when this interaction is taken away from them. It's important that the owner of this breed be able to assert their authority over the dog, as this is what will make the dog see that they are being loyal to the right person. Be sure to demonstrate that you are in control of the situation at all times.

Cairn Terriers
Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size: 4-6 puppies Group:Terrier

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:All colors are acceptable with the exception of white. Brindle, black, tan, sand, red and gray are often found in the same litter. Hair Length:Medium Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:10-13 inches (25-33 cm) Male Weight:14-18 pounds (6-8 kg) Female Height:9-12 inches (23-30 cm) Female Weight:13-17 pounds (6-8 kg) Living Area:Indoor with regular exercise.
Description

The Cairn Terrier is a small athletic looking dog that has a mischievous and intelligent look. Often their face is described as being almost fox-like in appearance with sharp pointed ears that are set relatively high on the head. The ears are always carried erect and the bushy topknot and longer hairs on the ears give a softened outline to the head. The muzzle is strong looking but not square and is somewhat pointed in appearance. The face has a definite stop between the deep set brown or hazel eyes that are framed by bushy eyebrows. The eyes of a Cairn Terrier seem to sparkle with intelligence and good humor and they are very interested in watching everything around them. The body is relatively short and very compact. The dogs are sturdy looking without being heavy or stocky in appearance. The Cairn Terrier has different sized feet, with the front feet slightly larger than the back feet. The legs are short and very straight with longer, harsh fringe and feathering over the legs for added protection in moving through dense vegetation and brambles. The short tail is always carried high and is usually wagging and in motion, especially when these active little dogs are one hunt or are out on a walk. They have a very springy gait and move fluidly despite their smaller size. Since they were originally a ratting breed, they have the coarse, outer coat that provides both protection and water resistance and the softer, insulating under coat keeps them warm even in cold weather. The coat is slightly wavy to straight but is never curly. The breed can be found in many different colors including gray, black, red, sand and brindle but cannot be white. White patches on the chest or feet are considered faults, but darker hair on the ears, legs, muzzle and tip of the tail is acceptable.

Coat Description

The Cairn Terriers coat consists of a wiry, coarse outer coat that covers a very fine, downy under coat. The outer coat may be any color except white and the inner coat will be the same color or slightly lighter in color than the outer coat. The coat is medium in length and is very straight, with very slightly longer hair on the furnishings on the legs and around the neck acceptable. A soft or curly coat is considered a fault in this breed. White spots on the chest or feet are considered a fault but darker points are acceptable in all colors.
History

The Cairn Terrier was originally used as a ratting dog, hunting throughout farmlands in the areas around the Isle of Skye in Scotland in the 1500's. There are many terrier breeds that came out of this area, but the modern Cairn Terrier is considered to be the closest in appearance and personality to the actual ancestors of these terrier breeds. The Cairn Terrier received its name though its ability to push itself through the rocks that formed the cairns or stone fences after rodents and vermin that were problematic in the area. They were experts at driving the larger rodents or animals such as otters and badgers out of the cairns as well as hunting and killing the smaller animals. Although independent and prized for its ability to hunt, the Cairn Terrier was also valued as a watchdog and companion. The breed became increasingly popular through the 1900's as more people in large cities looked for active and energetic smaller dogs for city living conditions. The Cairn Terrier today is primarily used as a companion dog although they are also used in earthdog trials, in obedience and agility competitions as well as for watchdogs.
Temperament

For families and people that want a dog that is energetic, happy, intelligent and a very loyal pet and protector the Cairn Terrier is a perfect match. They are outgoing in their personalities and often don't seem to realize that they are a small dog. A natural watchdog, the Cairn Terrier can be stranger, dog and pet aggressive if not properly socialized. The Cairn Terrier will often attack much large dogs in their role as protectors, so care must be taken to keep them safe and away from larger breeds that could easily cause the smaller dog injury. With proper socialization they can be excellent companion dogs for both other breeds of dogs as well as non-canine pets. A natural hunter, Cairn Terriers will chase and need to be kept within a fence or on a leash to prevent them from running off on a hunt. Cairn Terriers are good family dogs although they can be snappish and somewhat possessive of their food and toys. In a family with children the Cairn Terrier will always be involved in the children's games and play and loves to run and romp. Their boundless energy makes them a terrific pet for active families. Chasing balls and playing fetch is a favorite pastime of many Cairn Terriers.

Cairn Terriers are a people breed of dog and need to have contact with their owners and family on a regular basis. They do not do well if left alone for long periods of time or kept in a kennel. Bored or lonely Cairn Terriers can quickly develop destructive or problematic habits such as constant barking or problem digging. Consistent, positive training and challenges keep this breed stimulated both mentally and physically. Cairn Terriers quickly learn new skills and tricks and love to work for praise and attention. Cairn Terriers do need affection and attention and love to find a comfortable spot on the couch or, even better yet, on a lap and spend time with the family. They make an excellent housedog and will be very active. They do love to be outside and run and play, so a yard is recommended but with regular walks it is not absolutely required. Without the right amount of exercise the Cairn Terrier can become somewhat difficult to work with and may become less compliant and more headstrong. Despite the natural good humor and rather independent attitude of the Cairn Terrier they are a breed that does not respond well to punishment. They are surprisingly sensitive to reprimands and changes in the owner's voice, so care needs to be taken to avoid speaking in harsh tones or raising your voice with this breed. Although not prone to being timid they can become more aloof and independent if they are mistreated, teased or not attended to in a positive fashion.
Health Problems

Generally the Cairn Terrier is a very healthy breed. Some of the common Health Problems that are seen are a tendency to gain weight leading to obesity and flea Allergies that result in skin rashes, excessive licking and scratching. There is also a problem in some Cairn Terriers with Cataracts that cause vision problems as the dog matures. There are also some genetic conditions including a bleeding disorder known as von Willebrands Disease and Legg Calve Perthes, a degenerative condition of the hips. Occasionally the Cairn Terrier can also suffer from patellar luxation or slipping of the kneecap that can usually be treated non-surgically.
Grooming

Grooming the Cairn Terrier is relatively easy and simple and does not require a professional groomer but it does need to be done on a consistent, regular basis. The Cairn Terrier should be groomed every other day with a stiff bristle brush or a pin brush, grooming both the outer hair and the softer, dense inner coat. The soft fine hair of the inner coat is prone to matting that in turn will increase the likelihood of skin problems and rashes as well as sores and infections. In addition to regular grooming, the hair around the ears and eyes should be regularly trimmed to avoid irritation. To safely trim the hair around the eyes always use blunt ended scissors and have someone help you by holding the dog's head very still. Place your fingers between the scissors and the dog's eyes to avoid any possibility of injury from a sudden movement. Keep the inside of the ears free from hair by using your fingers to pluck out any long hair. The teeth should regularly be checked for tartar build up and regular brushing with a finger sleeve or dogtoothbrush and special dog toothpaste is recommended. At least twice a year the Cairn Terrier should have all the long and dead hairs removed from his or her coat. This is done through a process called stripping. Stripping can be done by hand by

simply pulling out the long or dead hairs with the direction of hair growth. This is always back and down when you are stripping the body of the dog. The coarse, rough outer hair of the Cairn Terrier dog contains natural oils that keep the coat waterproof and provides protection. Avoid over-bathing the breed as this will strip the natural oils from the coat. There are special shampoos and conditioners available for dogs that will protect their coats. Never use human hair products on dogs as the pH is different and can really dry and damage the dog's hair.
Exercise

The Cairn Terrier is a very adaptable dog to living in small spaces. They do need regular exercise if a yard is not available as they are prone to putting on weight if not provided with opportunities to run and play. Daily walks are recommended for the breed, however they also love to play in the yard with family or chase a ball or stick. The Cairn Terrier is a good jogging companion provided the level of exercise is increased gradually. Due to the patellar luxation that can occur in the breed jumping is not recommended. If the Cairn Terrier is kept with other dogs he or she will self-exercise and play with the dog companions.
Training

Training a terrier breed requires both consistency and creativity and the Cairn Terrier certainly requires both. Since they are somewhat independent and stubborn they need to be challenged in training as well as rewarded with lots of positives and praise. They do not do well in highly repetitive training methods and need changes in routine and limited repetitions to avoid becoming bored and non-compliant. In is important to have the Cairn understand that you are the boss and often an obedience class or puppy class is a great idea to get the basic training and commands mastered as well as integrate socialization. The breed is very sensitive to correct and simply ignoring bad behavior and withdrawing attention for a few minutes is usually all the correction the dog will need. They are extremely quick to pick up on new tricks and commands, and often seem to understand what the owner wants them to do. They will also learn what brings them attention, and will quickly learn tricks like ringing a bell for water or bringing the leash to encourage owners to go for a walk. They are excellent candidates for both obedience and agility classes and seem to love to perform for audiences of any size. One aspect of training that must be addressed is possessiveness. Terrier breeds, Cairns as well, will tend to snap and protect their food and toys. Teaching the dogs as puppies to relinquish food dishes, bones and toys is critical to prevent negative behaviors from forming as the dog gets older. They can also be problematic barkers to teaching them to stop barking on command is a very important part of a Cairn Terriers early training. A Cairn Terrier left to his or her own devices will find something to do to entertain themselves. They are powerful diggers and love to spend time digging in soft dirt, often to the dismay of a gardener. Cairn's can be taught to dig in selected areas rather than all through the yard, which is a great option to prevent unexpected landscaping changes.

Socialization is also key aspect of training, especially at an early age. With proper socialization chasing and aggressive behavior can be minimized however it is often not completely eliminated. If you plan to have other pets including dogs in the house start the socialization when the Cairn is a puppy.

Canaan Dogs
Life Span:12-15 years is the average lifespan of the Canaan Dog. Litter Size:4 - 6 puppies on average Group:Herding, Working, Utility, Nonsporting, Sighthound and Pariah

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Solid black, brown or white, some reds that can lighten over time, as well as a pattern of white with brown or black patches.

Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:19-24 inches (48-61 cm.) Male Weight:37-57 pounds (16-25 kg.) Female Height:19-24 inches (48-61 cm.) Female Weight:37-57 pounds (16-25 kg.) Living Area:While the Canaan Dog is a natural herder and will do quite well in an open area, that does not mean that you need to live on a farm to have this dog breed in your life. The main concern with the Canaan Dog is that it gets plenty of exercise. So, if you live in an apartment and can be relied upon to take your dog outside for long periods of activity each day, the apartment life can suit your dog quite well. These dogs are active inside, but will do well with a good sized yard to run around in when they can. In fact, the Canaan Dog can live outside in a wide range of temperatures due to the thick undercoat-even extremely hot or cold temperatures. But this dog will also have a good life living indoors, if that's the case for your home.

Description

The Canaan Dog is a medium sized dog that's built in a sturdy fashion, with an overall proportionate body. The pricked ears of this breed are broad at the base and have rounded tips, set high on the head. The bushy tail curls when the dog is in 'alert' mode. The dog's almond shaped eyes are a dark brown sitting over a slightly slanted and dark nose. At first glance, the Canaan Dog looks inquisitive when it glances at you, more curious than suspicious. The legs are long and straight with paws that almost resemble those of a cat. The medium sized chest is also moderately deep and covered by a double coat of short, flat fur. The head is shaped in a sort of blunted wedge shape with a defined stop at the nose. Originally from Israel, the Canaan Dog is a natural herder and is thought to have been in existence for the past thousand years or so. Training this dog can be difficult at times, as the Canaan Dog tends to be manipulative towards owners that it feels it can outwit. Smart and independent, this particular dog breed can become bored just as quickly as it learns new tasks.
Coat Description

The coat of the Canaan Dog is a double coat and has straight outer coat that should be no more than 2 inches long. The undercoat is thick and can resist even the harshest of temperature changes. Much of the coloring will depend on the import of the breed. Those in the U.S. tend to have a white coat with a black face and patches, while other imports began to reveal other colors like red. Most of the U.S. dogs are going to be white and black.
History

The original story of the Canaan Dog begins with it being a pariah dog in the ancient times of Israel. Many believe that this dog breed could actually date back to biblical times, making it one of the oldest dog breeds still around today. Thought to be a herding dog and a guard dog of those ancient Israelites, the Canaan Dog roamed the region, helping to protecting the flocks of sheep and other animals as well as to guard those that slept in the camps. When the Romans removed the Israelites in the second century, the Canaan Dog began to lessen in numbers and may have come close to dying out in those scattered years. As the Israelites were moved, these dogs had taken refuse in the Negev Desert, which was a sort of oasis for Israeli wildlife. Roaming free, these dogs continued an undomesticated life, though they were helped by other cultures that drifted into the area. At one point, a Dr. Rudolphina Menzel found these intelligent dogs and used them as guard dogs for Jewish settlements, and through interbreeding, they became the Canaan Dog we know today.

Temperament

An incredibly reliable breed, the Canaan Dog is a natural herder that likes to complete tasks that require it to use its intelligence. While this sounds like it's only going to be good as a worker dog, this breed is also very easy going at the same time, sometimes even referred to as aloof. The Canaan Dog is able to handle tasks on its own, without much supervision and it thrives on being independent in this way. If you leave this dog alone for a while, it's not going to be upset with you, so it makes it a perfect breed for those that might not have a lot of time to give a dog breed a lot of attention. That doesn't mean that the Canaan Dog doesn't like attention, but that they don't require a lot of interaction in order to be satisfied. But the trick with a higher intelligence dog like the Canaan Dog is that they tend to become bored when they're doing repetitive tasks that they don't find stimulating. In longer training sessions, they can simply ignore commands and requests if they find something else that seems more interesting to them. It's best to continue to challenge them with new things that will allow them to continue to develop their learning. The Canaan Dog is also quite cautious around strangers, so they will need to be taught to socialize with people that will be in their life frequently. But this feature allows them to be high quality guard dogs. They will bark whenever they are in the presence of someone they don't recognize. This is a perfect dog for a family that wants a little extra protection or for a single that wants a loyal protector. The Canaan Dog is also gifted in feats of agility, tracking, and chasing. It should also be noted that this dog breed is generally quite calm, which makes him a good dog to have in a family setting. And since this breed wants to be loyal to just one person or one family, it can be a great match.
Health Problems

As one of the healthiest and hardiest breeds, the Canaan Dog is not prone to any major difficulties, though it may rarely have troubles with: Hip Dysplasia- A disease in which the hip joints begin to break down, making movements painful and difficult. Some owners can choose to have the hip joint replaced, while others opt for a medication treatment course. The symptoms come on gradually and include slower movements and a resistance to getting up and down quickly.
Grooming

The Canaan Dog is one of the easiest dog breeds to groom as the coat is simple to groom and to maintain. A weekly brushing with a coarse brush will help to keep stray hairs from becoming too much of a nuisance. Try to comb the hair out one a week as well to keep the appearance nice and healthy and comfortable for the dog too.

It should be noted that this dog is a seasonal shedder, so you will have times of the year when shedding can be problematic- especially if you're not keeping up with the weekly brushings. If you do brush your dog on a regular basis, you will be able to keep the fur from becoming too much of a problem, but it can still be a little furry in the house anyways. Perhaps this is a good reason to have your dog live outside during the shedding times of the year? But overall, this dog breed doesn't require regular bathing as they don't naturally have a dog stink to worry about. However, if your dog has gotten into some dirt or other stinky materials, you might want to bathe them to rid their fur of the filth. It's good to note that since this isn't a naturally smelly dog, if you do notice any stink after their bath, it might be time for a trip to the vet. Sometimes odors are caused by infections of the skin or irritations in the nose or ears. Checking with your vet about any suspect smells or sores will be the best course of action. Since this dog can be an outside breed, you will want to check your Canaan Dog for signs of ticks or fleas whenever they have been in the woods or with other animals. If you should notice anything peculiar, talk with your vet about how to handle treatment.
Exercise

The Canaan Dog is certainly going to want to be active, as its natural herding tendencies make it a more active breed that enjoys running around. This is certainly not a dog that will be happy just sitting around the house, doing nothing. You will need to create plenty of activity for this breed, including regular walks and physical activities that allow the breed to flex its intelligence and agility. You will want to not only take a Canaan Dog out for regular walks and let it run around without any direction for at least an hour each day, but you will also need to construct an intense training schedule that will help strengthen their mental fitness as well as their physical fitness. Playing games like fetch and other retrieval games might work well for their herding capabilities, but if this dog can use those skills in another setting - that is the preferred method. Constantly challenging this dog is going to be challenging for you and for the dog itself. You will need to create a program in which the dog is able to go on a long run with you and then perform challenging tasks at the end of that activity. If you aren't a naturally active person, you might want to rethink your decision to get a Canaan Dog as they can become irritable and upset when they aren't able to exercise as often as they would like.
Training

The Canaan Dog is what many breeders would call highly intelligence and absolutely trainable. They are more than willing to learn new tasks that are given to them and are likely to pick up new tricks and feats with ease. You can show them something and they can figure out how to repeat this task without much work at all. However, they naturally will follow the lead of the

person they consider their 'herder,' so once you have established your position, training can become easier. That said, the risk with any highly intelligent dog is that they tend to become bored if they feel like your training is not challenging them enough. If they feel like something is not 'worth' their time, then will often resist the training and not listen to commands. In these instances, they can be very difficult dogs to train. They will require constant motivation and commands in order to keep them on task. You will want to have new activities that will challenge the Canaan Dog, perhaps having them look or hunt for things that you put in your yard or on a walk. They are natural herders as well, so any sort of activity that allows them to do this will also help to train them mentally as well as physically. Repetitive training is not advised for these dogs as they will become bored as they have probably already learned the task and want to move onto something else new and exciting. Like other breeds, the Canaan Dog will need to learn socialization skills at a young age in order to be able to determine who is a friend and who is a stranger. They are aggressive and will bark if they feel that they are with someone that can not be trusted, so as a puppy, they need to be taught how to behave. The trick with training the Canaan Dog is that you will need to be paying attention to everything they do during the session. These are dogs that can be manipulative and will try to avoid doing certain things that they may not want to do. With consistent training that involves some sort of reward, you will be able to manage their behaviors. Think about ways to encourage positive behaviors and to motivate this breed towards doing what you want them to do. They aren't necessarily going to respond to punishments that you dole out.

Cane Corso Italian Mastiffs

Life Span:10-11 years Litter Size:5-7 Group:Mastiff Recognized By:FCI, AKC, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:gray, fawn or red, with brindle variations. A black or gray mask also acceptable Hair Length:Short Size:Large

Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24-27 inches (64-68 cm.) Male Weight:99-110 pounds (45-50 kg.) Female Height:23-25 inches (60-64 cm) Female Weight:88-99 pounds (40-45 kg.) Living Area:The Cane Corso can live in an apartment if it gets enough exercise. This dog will be content to live outdoors in warmer climates provided it has enough shelter. The ideal living situation in a home with an average-sized yard.
Description

A large dog, the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff is strongly built but elegant looking. Possessing powerful and long muscles, the Cane Corso looks more athletic than most mastiffs - it looks more like the original Old English Bulldog then the Neapolitan Mastiff. Basically, the overall impression you should get from the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff is one of power, balanced with athleticism. This dog's body is longer than the height at the withers and its muzzle is broad and deep. The muzzle's length and width should be the same size, and it should be 33% of the length of the head, while its depth should be more than 50% the length of the muzzle. This gives the dog's muzzle a flat and square appearance and the bottom of the jawline should be defined by a hanging lip. Plus, with this head and muzzle size and type, the Cane Corso has superior bite strength. As well, this breed's head shouldn't have any wrinkles. Its high-set ears may be left natural or cropped; and if they are cropped, they must stand erect in the shape of triangles. The Cane Corso Italian Mastiff's neck is slightly arched, oval, strong, muscular and without dewlap. The skin on its compact, strong and muscular body is rather thick. Finishing off the look, the Cane Corso tail is usually docked.
Coat Description

The Cane Corso Italian Mastiff's coat is composed of short hair that is shiny, adherent, stiff, and dense. In the winter, it has a light layer that becomes thicker in winter. The main color of the Cane Corso's coat comes in black and fawn. However, genetic pigment dilution may cause hues of blue or fawn colours. Brindling is common on both basic coat colours as well, giving it a full brindle, black brindle, or blue brindle effect. The fawn tone ranges from formentino to red to beige. In a Cane Corso that is blue, its nose can be grey, but it should be darker than the coat. For all other colors, the nose should be black. As well, the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff can have white markings on the chest, toes and on the chin and nose.

History

The Cane Corso Italian Mastiff takes its name from cane da corso, a term for dogs used in rural activities. And that's what this breed was used for - to herd cattle and swine, for boar hunting, and bear fighting. As well, this dog was used as a bodyguard. The Cane Corso was largely found in southern Italy, such as in Basilicata, Campania and Puglia. This breed was on the verge of extinction until enthusiasts of this dog took it upon themselves to re-establish the Cane Corso in the 1970s. This was done by cross-breeding the remaining dogs with appropriate type-selected breeds. This is noticeable when you compare the pre-80s breed to its forefathers. After its re-emergence, the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff became popular around the world, especially when it came to the United States in 1987. This breed was recognized by the United Kennel Club in 2008 and the American Kennel Club in 2010.
Temperament

Cane Corsos are intelligent, which makes them easy to train. Couple that with a willingness to please, and the ability to form a close attachment with its primary owner, and you've got a great dog on your hands. Loyal and quiet around the house, the Cane Corso is often described as active and even-minded, making it an excellent watch and protection dog. And even though it may look intimidating, Cane Corso Italiano is wonderful with children in the family because this dog is protective yet gentle. It will want to spend as much time with its family and its primary owner as possible. Right from the beginning, Cane Corso Italian Mastiff puppies must have strong leadership and training. It will pick up the basic commands quickly, so the most important part is controlling and moulding the Corso's strong protective instinct. The Cane Corso is always suspicious of strangers, so owners must never encourage aggression. As well, the Cane Corso doesn't always respond well to new things and situations, such as animals and people - you should be careful when introducing your Cane Corso to new experiences. Be sure to properly socialization your puppy to control the dog's natural protective instincts. It's important to note that the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff is not a fighting dog. It won't go out looking for a fight; however, it will not back down from a dog that tries to dominate it. This breed needs an experienced owner who knows how to establish natural authority over the dog. Once your Cane Corso is fully trained and knows what it can and can't do, this dog will be an excellent companion and family pet.
Health Problems

Some of the most common Health Problems associated with Cane Corso Italian Mastiff dogs are hip dysplasia, Bloat, mange, and eyelid abnormalities such as Cherry Eye. To ensure that your new dog will be less prone to hip dysplasia, the puppy's parents should have hip evaluations of excellent, good, or fair from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. Breeders should also have eye clearances from the Canine Eye Registry Foundation.

Grooming

A light shedder, grooming the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff is easy due to its short coat. But even though there's not much of a coat to brush though, it can still be a big chore - after all, this is a big dog. Brush its sleek coat with a natural bristle brush or mitt once a week and to really brighten its sheen, use a coat conditioner or polish. You won't need to bathe your Cane Corso often. About every three months using a mild shampoo will be sufficient. Don't forget the rest of your Cane Corso Italian Mastiff. Its ears will need to be checked and cleaned every week. Your dog's nails need to be trimmed regularly (once a month). It's also a good idea to brush your Cane Corso's teeth daily with a soft toothbrush and dog toothpaste to keep teeth and gums healthy. As with most dogs, you should introduce grooming to the Cane Corso as early as possible so it learns to keep still and eventually enjoy the process.
Exercise

You may have heard of the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff referred to as the "coursing mastiff." This is a nod to the fact that the Cane Corso can exceed other mastiff breeds in terms of athleticism, agility, speed, energy level, and sense of adventure. The Cane Corso Italiano is athletic, requiring a substantial amount of daily exercise. That being said, it's no surprise that this breed needs a substantial amount of daily exercise. Because it boats high stamina, the Cane Corso is a great companion for long jogs or hikes. This dog does best in a house with a large fenced in yard; however, it can live in an apartment if it gets enough daily exercise. In combination with daily exercise, the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff needs personal interaction and lots of companionship. If it doesn't get enough exercise or attention, it may become destructive.
Training

The Cane Corso Italian Mastiff is best owned by an experienced handler, not a first-time owner. This is because it is a powerful dog and can be dominant. From the beginning, the owner needs to be firm and consistent at all times and assert his or her role as the pack leader. Once trained, the Cane Corso Italian Mastiff is obedient and willing to please. Agile and intelligent, the Cane Corso can be taught using a variety of training methods. You will find that your dog will be responsive to obedience training, and classes are recommended at the puppy stage. Show strong leadership while training your puppy as it is an important step when controlling and molding your Cane Corso's strong protective instinct. As well, you will also need to be careful when introducing your dog to new places and people - the Cane Corso likes the status quo, and may react strongly to new experiences. To take control of its powerful need to protect, the Cane Corso must be trained so it only reacts when a real threat is present. Be sure to socialize your Cane Corso Italian Mastiff as early as possible so it can learn to get along with other people and animals.

Cardigan Welsh Corgis

Life Span:12-14 years

Litter Size:5-7 puppies Group:Herding

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Red, Brindle, Black/Tan, Black, Blue/Tan, Blue. All-white Corgis are not considered acceptable under AKC standards. Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:10.5-12.5 in (26-31 cm) Male Weight:30-38 lbs (14-17 kg) Female Height:10.5-12.5 in (26-31 cm) Female Weight:25-34 lbs (11-15 kg) Living Area:Cardis will usually do well in an urban or suburban setting if given enough attention from their human masters. The breed is very versatile, having been used traditionally for both herding and companionship purposes, and will be happy in whatever setting you place him or her in. However, care should be taken when integrating your Cardi with other household animals in a smaller apartment or house--Cardis can become anti-social when exposed to animals that they haven't known from an early age, and it may take them time to get used to their new companions. Outdoor animals (for rural Cardi owners) will be less of a problem, as the Cardi's instincts generally tell it to ignore or peaceably manage such animals.
Description

The Cardigan Welsh Corgi is a small herding dog with a straight, weather-proof coat accented by a heavy ruff around the neck and a pair of jodphur-like tufts of fur near the hind legs. Its bone structure and general proportions are reminiscent of a Dachshund, and some breeders speculate that the Cardi has some Dachsund heritage from its largely mysterious origins (before its arrival in Wales.) The Cardi is often confused with its closest relative, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. Although significant genetic differences exist between the two (breeders now believe that the Pembroke Corgi was crossed with Norwegian breeds during Viking invasions of England and Wales), the most visible difference is in the tail: Pembroke Welsh Corgis have very short of nonexistet tails, while the Cardigan Welsh Corgi has a long and ample one.

Coat Description

The Cardigan Welsh Corgi has a double coat. The outer coat is straight, of medium length, and weatherproof, while the inner coat is softer and meant to insulate the Cardi from extremes of temperature during the winter. The coat is slightly thicker around the neck and rear legs, giving the Cardi its distinctive appearance.
History

Cardigan Welsh Corgis are one of the oldest breeds in the United Kingdom, with early examples of the breed reported in Wales some three thousand years ago. The Cardi was originally used simply to protect herds of cattle en route from Wales to English markets, but in time the early Welsh drovers realized the utility of the Cardi as a herder and began using the breed in this capacity. A later cross with traditional Welsh sheepdogs increased the Cardi's herding capabilities still further, resulting in the Cardigan Welsh Cardi as we know it today. The original Cardigan Welsh Corgi breed was split during Viking invasions near the end of the first millennium AD, when members of the Spitz breed (which accompanied the Vikings) crossbred with original Welsh Corgis, resulting in two different strains: the Cardigan Welsh Corgi and the closely-related Pembroke Welsh Corgi. Although some cross-breeding between these two distinct varieties of Corgi occurred--encouraged by the refusal of English kennel clubs at the start of the twentieth century to consider the Pembroke and the Cardi as two distinct breeds--the breeds were finally separated in 1934, and the breed lines have remained reasonably pure ever since.
Temperament

Cardis are above all active. They have a naturally high energy level (a side effect of their long history as herding dogs), and they're willing to use this energy as often as possible. Thankfully, they aren't nervous as a rule--a problem with many equally-energetic terrier breeds--and will only bark at strangers and others that they perceive as immediate threats. Their destructive behavior when they feel themselves abandoned by their humans is also minimal, although sometimes surprisingly effective (given the Cardi's inherent intelligence.) Cardis love problem-solving and other intellectual challenges, and are natural candidates for heavy obedience training and trick-performing. This intelligence isn't coupled with much native skittishness or aggressiveness, however (with one exception, as we'll see), which makes the dogs fairly stable, ideal household pets. Their intelligence needs to be constantly exercised, however, or Cardis will start becoming restless and will start turning their intelligence toward what one might call "bad ends" (stealing food, finding their way out of closed apartments or yards, and other unwanted behavior.) One serious problem with the breed's temperament is, to paraphrase Sartre, the problem of Other Dogs--the Cardi's wariness and aggressiveness when faced with other dogs. This is a natural side effect of the dog's history--herding dogs were frequently responsible for driving off any predatory dogs and wolves who threatened the flock--but that doesn't make it any less irritating

or dangerous for you as a Cardi owner. You'll want to carefully supervise your dog in order to prevent any fights with other dogs which could result in injury either to the other dog or to your own. Other animals and children are less of a problem--the Cardi tends to perceive them as members of the flock, rather than as predators--and Cardis will generally protect and socialize well with them.
Health Problems

Cardis are an extremely healthy breed compared to other dogs of comparable size and grouping. hip dysplasia is potential problem, as are mild eye problems ( Glaucoma and Progressive Retinal Atrophy in particular) in later years. The most dangerous ailment a Cardi faces, however, is degenerative myelopathy (DM), a spinal complaint most commonly found in German Shepherds. Although DM is a moderately rare condition, it's still a good idea to start having your Cardi checked by a vet starting at around five years of age.
Grooming

Cardigan Welsh Corgis do not require much grooming, as a rule. Two sessions of brushing a week should suffice to remove unwanted dead hair, which will not only keep your dog clean, but will minimize shedding (which happens seasonally, but moderately.) During the shedding season, it's often a good idea to start brushing the Cardi on a daily basis rather than a bi-weekly, but if you don't mind cleaning up the extra hair there's no major health reason to brush your Cardi that frequently. Bathing should be kept to a minimum with the Cardi--their coats are naturally weatherproof, and too-frequent bathing can result in a lessening of this weather-resistant capacity. Too-frequent bathing can also result in a lessening of one of the best features of the Cardigan Welsh Corgi's coat--its relative lack of dog odor. Bathing not only brings out that dog odor, but progressively erodes the special oils that keep the Cardi's coat generally free of unpleasant smells. So don't do it--or at least don't do it more than once a twice or year, and only when the dog seems to truly need it. (Fortunately, the Cardi is a naturally clean breed of dog with an authentic dislike of messiness, and they'll take care of most small to medium sized messes on their fur or person on their own. You'll only have to step in for the large messes--or for the messes the Cardi simply doesn't notice or mind.) One note related to the overall appearance of your dog: Cardis have a tendency toward overeating and obesity--if you let them overeat. In order to keep your dog looking his or her best-and in order to maintain his or her long-term health--make sure to manage the Cardi's diet carefully (and make sure to keep any fattening treats well out of reach of your intelligent, problem-solving dog.)
Exercise

The Cardigan Welsh Corgi was essentially bred for exercise--the daily exercise of herding cattle along the long roads from Wales to England--and the breed's high energy level remains to this day. Because of this native energy, one could argue that you don't need to do a great deal to

exercise your Cardi. They're very good at amusing themselves indoors, require only one or two walks a day, and don't tend to "act out" in destructive ways when they don't get outside often enough. It seems, on the surface, like this is the perfect low-maintenance breed. But the truth is that the Cardi requires a higher level of dedication than this. For one, the Cardi's metabolism can't quite match its energy level when the Cardi is kept indoors most of the time-which is why Cardis have a tendency toward obesity and overeating. You'll need to exercise your Cardi in order to minimize these problems and keep your Cardi not only trim, but healthy. Some extra walking will do the trick for this if you're in an urban area, coupled with some offleash time at a nearby park--if your Cardi is generally well-trained and obedient, you can trust him or her off-leash for surprisingly long periods of time without any unwanted chasing or fighting behavior. (After all, Cardis were bred to stay with herds for long cattle drives--they would hardly be useful for this purpose if they instinctively darted at every rat or squirrel they saw along the road from Wales.) If you're in a rural area, take every opportunity you can to give your Cardi some off-leash time and some exercise in his larger environment. The exception to this rule comes when you're in an area with other dogs--the Cardi's aggressiveness toward strange dogs precludes off-leash exercise in these situations, unless you enjoy dragging a snarling, growling dog back from the brink of a fight. The Cardi's active and furious intelligence also requires you to give the Cardi more exercise and stimulation that you might think strictly necessary. The Cardis are extremely smart, problemsolving dogs, and if left alone their exercise might turn toward directions and goals that you, as a homeowner, don't particularly like: figuring out how to get those treats out of the doggie jar on the kitchen counter, for example, or other unintentionally destructive acts. By focusing on active, energetic training--tricks, ball-chasing, and other stimulating yet tiring activities in particular-you can keep your Cardi fit while at the same time keep his or her intelligence too occupied to focus on the problems that you don't particularly want him or her to solve.
Training

Cardis are highly intelligent, highly athletic, and highly trainable--providing that the trainer knows what he or she is doing. Cardis' natural cleanliness makes them easy to housetrain as puppies, and their natural abilities with problem-solving makes them ideal candidates for teaching both basic commands (heel, sit, and the like) as well as more complicated commands and tricks. As with all dog training, it's most effective to use positive methods of reinforcement (treats and rewards of attention and play) as opposed to negative methods (punishment or harsh language)--the Cardi's natural intelligence will naturally latch on to the gist of the trick or command he or she is being taught, and more than likely the knowledge itself (and the dog's pride in it) will be its own reward. (If you do offer a food reward, however, make sure that you do so only sparingly--Cardis have a tendency to obesity as a breed, and it's difficult to stop offering food rewards for successful obedience once you start offering them.) In fact, Cardis are so trainable--and so instinctively good at their basic, instinctual drives toward

herding behavior--that it's a good idea to continue training them and offering intellectual challenges long after basic obedience is achieved. This isn't just fun for you and your dog, but it's also practical: the Cardi's basic herding behavior involves biting, nipping, and occasional barking, and if you don't provide the Cardi with intellectual challenges to distract from those basic drives, the Cardi will probably fall back on them simply to keep his or her active brain busy. So keep your Cardi well-trained and be willing to constantly introduce new challenges into his or her environment in order to spare yourself some occasional grief at your Cardi's sometimes overabundant energy. Because of their basic herding instincts, Cardis are exceptionally good with children and can often act as caretakers and protectors for extremely young family members. However, Cardis are not quite so good with other household animals, and they should be introduced to their prospective housemates at an early age in order to ensure adequate socialization and a minimum of dominance struggling or unwanted "herding" behavior. This holds especially true with other dogs--socialization with other household dogs should be done very, very early, and it's probably a good idea to tell your dog-owning friends to leave their canine pals at home when they come for a visit, no matter how well-trained your Cardi might be.

Catahoula Leopard Dogs

Life Span:10 -14 years Litter Size:8 and 12 puppies. Group: Recognized By:AKC, UKC, APRI, ACR Color:Ranging in color from red, blue, yellow, and even tan or white colors. Hair Length:Short Size:Large, Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:20 to 26 inches Male Weight:The McMillin line-the smallest of all the lines, ranging from 50 to 60 pounds , The Fairbanks line-a medium sized breed, ranging from 65 to 75 pounds , The Wright line-the largest of the lines ranging from 90 to 110 pounds Female Height:20 to 26 inches

Female Weight:The McMillin line-the smallest of all the lines, ranging from 50 to 60 pounds , The Fairbanks line- a medium sized breed, ranging from 65 to 75 pounds , The Wright line- the largest of the lines ranging from 90 to 110 pounds Living Area:The Catahoula Leopard dog breed is best suited to the country, or to living on a farm in order to run and explore during the day. Living in an apartment or suburb is not only dull for the dog, but it can also cause them to act out their boredom. If this dog breed does need to live in a smaller area, they will require a lot of attention and ability to get out to burn off their excess energy. Try schedule time away every day to make sure this dog is happy and content-or you may find that your home or yard has been damaged from the lack of attention. Ideally, the Catahoula should be able to have a set pattern of work chores to do each day so that they can fully utilize their intelligence and their energy. These are dogs that work well to herd cattle and to manage other animals on a farm. This is not a dog that you can leave alone during the day or leave outside chained to a pole. This is a dog that needs to be played with regularly, needs direction, training, and some sort of goal in order to be kept happy. If you leave this dog outside during cold weather, they will need a heated dog house and sleeping area as their short coat doesn't protect them from the elements as well as a longer coat might.
Description

Often called the most versatile of all working dog breeds, the Catahoula Leopard dog is certainly an active canine. From being able to herd cattle and hunt many species of game-deer, bear, boar, raccoon, and squirrel-to being an excellent candidate for Search and Rescue as well as drug detection, needless to say, the Catahoula Leopard dog is a protective breed that is intelligent and adaptable to nearly every situation. Also known as a Louisiana Catahoula Leopard dog, this dog breed likes to be as active as possible and requires a fair amount of mental stimulation to keep occupied. Often growing to 20 to 26 inches long and 45 to 95 pounds, this moderate breed stays in shape by being put to work in the fields or in various law enforcement situations. The Louisiana Catahoula can be a number of different colors, so it can be difficult to identify them just from their coats. Ranging in color from red, blue, yellow, and even tan or white colors, this breed's short coat is easy to maintain and suited perfectly for their active lifestyle.
Coat Description

This breed's short coat is easy to maintain and suited perfectly for their active lifestyle.

History

There is some speculation that the Catahoula Leopard dog is a descendant of the greyhounds and mastiffs that were brought into Louisiana by Hernando de Soto in the sixteenth century. These original dogs were also known as war dogs and are thought to have interbred with the local red wolves. In the next century, the French began to arrive in Louisiana as well, bringing the Beauceron dog breed, which then mixed with the interbred dogs that were now in the area, producing the breed as it is seen today. Governor Edwin Edwards made the Catahoula Leopard dog the official state dog of Louisiana in 1979. The name "Catahoula" actually comes from the Indian word meaning, 'clear water.'
Temperament

As with most smart dog breeds, the Louisiana Catahoula Leopard needs to have a fair amount of stimulation in order to stay energized and happy. These dogs are highly intelligent and quick to assess situations, making them perfect helpers in law enforcement. But at the same time, this energy they have can also match perfectly with young children. The Catahoula is gentle and loving with younger children, so unlike other sporting dogs, this breed can be a good addition to a home setting. Because of their high intelligence, the Catahoula Leopard is often trying to learn new things and will be curious about their environment. This creates a sort of independent manner about them, and they will go off to wander and explore alone if they are compelled to do so. Spending a lot of time with this dog is imperative for its health and happiness. This is a dog that craves interaction with others and wants to be a part of the family that it belongs to. If you do not have time to interact with this type of dog breed, it may not be a good fit for your home. What may not work for every family is the Catahoula Leopard's tendency to be very overprotective of their family and of their territory. This can cause problems in some situations. The Catahoula can also become fierce when they are around other dogs, especially when the dogs are the same sex as they are. Though the initial protectiveness may not be seen in the first few years of a Catahoula's life, it's at the age of two that this breed begins to feel it has a responsibility to protect its owners. What's interesting too is that the Catahoula can become mild-mannered and timid around strangers, not from intimidation, but from hesitation. These dogs are intolerant of strangers and that's what makes them seem fearful in the presence of someone they don't know.

With all of these personality features in mind, some more mild-mannered dog owners may not be a good fit for the Catahoula Leopard. The owner needs to be someone that is ready to demonstrate leadership for the dog, as this breed wants to be lead and trained by an authority. This dog breed is often encouraged in homes that have a lot of room for the dog to roam, but in city or suburbs, they might feel too caged in. When trying to control your Catahoula Leopard, you will want to make sure they attend obedience classes as well as have a place where they can be locked up when you're not around to monitor their actions.
Health Problems

While generally a healthy dog overall, the Catahoula Leopard can encounter some problems during their active life. This particular dog breed is prone to hip dysplasia, which can cause pain and problems with mobility as the condition progresses. Those Catahoulas with a white coat or with a white face are also prone to issues with glass eyes. These particular colored dogs can often have an 80% chance of developing Deafness in one or both ears. Occasionally, this dog breed will have troubles with their eyes, leading to tunnel vision, abnormal pupil dilation, and sometimes problems with the eye opening. This is often seen in particular breeds, like the McMillin line. Some of the Catahoula Leopard Dog breed can also develop cancer in their older years.
Grooming

With a short and smooth coat of fur, the Catahoula Leopard dog is easy to groom. They require bathing only a few times a year (more if they've gotten into something messy), but their coats do not require constant brushing. Using a curry comb, bristle brush, or horsehair mitt, you simply brush the dog outside once or twice a week depending on how much the dog sheds. This will give the dog a shiny coat and also keep hair from piling up around the house. In addition to brushing your Catahoula's coat, you should also trim their nails once a week to prevent overgrowth. This is very easy to do and you will need a pair of animal nail clippers that can be found in most pet stores. Only trim the top portion of the nail. Cleaning your dog's ears may also be necessary especially if they suffer from allergies, bacterial infection, or they have a wound or other type of injury. Clean ears with baby oil and a cotton ball. Do not go too far into the ear as you could damage the ear canal. Instead, gently wipe around the outer ear. If you notice your dog is scratching its ears often or shaking its head too often, you should take the dog to the vet as they may have an infection.

With proper grooming, you will always have a happy, well adjusted dog that looks beautiful at all times.
Exercise

The high activity level of the Catahoula Leopard lends itself well to the farm or country setting, but may not work as well in the suburbs or a city dwelling. The workaholic personality of this dog breed needs to be constantly satisfied, or the dog may become unnecessarily aggressive. If at all possible, the Catahoula Leopard needs to be working during the day as a herder or in some other capacity. They enjoy being outdoors and playing, rather than sitting around. This particular dog breed should be allowed to run for a full hour daily, at least to help maintain their health as well as placate their energetic demeanor. The Catahoula Leopard might be an excellent companion on a jog or a hike, as they can keep up the pace quite easily. Though they are noisy and playful when they are active, Catahoula Leopards that don't get enough activity can begin to chew, bark, or dig excessively in order to deal with excess energy.
Training

It's best to take this particular dog breed to an obedience school when they are young to begin to train them in the proper ways of acting around other dogs as well as their family. Quick to learn, however, they are often the star pupils in their training classes due to their intelligence. In many cases, the Catahoula Leopard is a quick learner and often does not require any additional training outside of their owner. However, if the owner is not strong willed and able to stand up to this strong dog, the training may become problematic. It takes a forceful dog owner to handle the energy and the intelligence of this dog, so if the owner is not confident in their abilities, it will help if they train themselves to train before bringing this dog home. The Catahoula Leopard needs to have someone as assertive as they are in order to keep them under control. When an owner falters in their assertiveness, it can cause the dog to exhibit out of control behaviors that can become harmful to others.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniels

Life Span:10-15 years

Litter Size:2-6 puppies with an average of 5 Group:Gun dog, AKC Toy Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Red and White (Blenheim), black and tan (King Charles) tricolor (Prince Charles) and solid, dark red (Ruby). Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:12-13 inches (30-33 cm) Male Weight:10-18 pounds (5-8 kg) Female Height:12-13 inches (30-33 cm) Female Weight:10-18 pounds (5-8 kg) Living Area:The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel does very well in small spaces such as apartments but is also ideal in larger settings. They will self-exercise if indoors and must be kept in a fenced yard or on a leash when outside.
Description

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is an endearing toy dog that has boundless energy and love. They are an excellent family dog and will do well with older, considerate children that are aware of the small size of this breed, especially as a puppy. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is both athletic and active for its size but can also be a quiet companion dog. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel looks very similar to the larger King Charles Spaniel used as a gun dog and hunting breed. They have a distinctively beautiful feathered coat as well as a soulful expression in their eyes that often makes them appear almost human in expression. The head is almost flat between the high set, long, pendulous ears and the eyes are dark, well set to the sides of the muzzle and very large and round. They eyes should appear lustrous and moist, almost soft in definition. The stop is very slight and the muzzle should be approximately 1-1 1/2nches from the bottom of the stop to the tip of the black nose. The nostrils should be open and well developed in shape. The muzzle itself should be tapered and firm with the lips fitting tightly over the teeth. The neck should be slightly arched or crested at the back, muscular and of proportionate length. The chest is deep and strong as is the ribcage and the body. The back is straight and flat giving a

level topline. The legs should be moderately muscled and well developed and parallel to each other, giving a sturdy stance and balance to the dog. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel should have no obvious turning in or out of the elbows on the front legs or the feet on either the front or rear legs. Docking the tail of the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is optional however most owners leave the tail natural. It is carried horizontal with the body and the ground and will always be moving in a circular motion when the dog is active and moving about. There will be longer, noticeable feathering on the ears, legs and tail as well as on the feet. The hair on the chest and ruff will be slightly longer than the rest of the body and may be wavy but not curly. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel comes in several different colors including red and white, ruby, black and tan and tricolor.
Coat Description

The coat is moderately long, silky and very well feathered on the legs, chest, ears and tail. The feet will also have feathering and this is a standard of the breed. The coat may be wavy but not curly and should not be very dense or wooly in texture. The only areas of the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel's body that can be trimmed for show purposes are the feet. All other hair must remain natural and not even slight trimming is permitted.
History

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is one of the few breeds of dogs that have been re-created after becoming blended with other types of spaniels. The original Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, although they were not known by that name, were first recorded in paintings from the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as small dogs that were often found in the houses of royalty and in court. King Charles II was considered to be the largest supporter of the breed and was usually seen with a few of his favorite small spaniels. At this time these small dogs were used to attract fleas from their owners and were also often prescribed as a way to calm nervous and even cure stress ailments. An American dog fancier by the name of Roswell Eldridge actually offered a prize in 1926 at the Cruft's Dog Show in England for breeders to produce a toy spaniel with a long nose, typically to those seen in the Van Dyck paintings of King Charles II. He did not want the current version of the King Charles Spaniel, which had a domed head, larger body size and shorter nose. After there first showing at Cruft's in 1928 the long nosed, small bodied Cavalier King Charles Spaniel breeders formed an association and registered the breed as separate from the larger King Charles Spaniel. Mrs. Hewitt Pitt is considered to be the first breeder of the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel that favors the current breed standards. Her prefix, Ttiweh, which is actually Hewitt spelled in reverse, is still seen in many championship lines of the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel breed today. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel was accepted into the KC in 1945 and into the Miscellaneous class of the AKC in 1961, but have since achieved breed status in the toy group in 1995.

Temperament

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has a wonderful temperament and is ideal for single people, couples or even families. They are curious and playful by nature but also enjoy just cuddling up on a favorite cushion or even better on their owners lap. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel loves interacting with people and really needs a lot of human attention on a regular, ongoing, daily basis. This is not a dog that does well left alone for moderate to long periods of time. They require contact with people on a continuous basis to avoid falling into negative behaviors such as chewing and barking and becoming nervous. Most breeders recommend the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to families with older children simply because they are so small as puppies they may easily be accidentally injured by younger children. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is an excellent companion dog for dogs in the family or even other pets such as cats. They are natural "chasers" so do need proper socialization to understand not to chase the other pets in the house. They do well with other dogs and are not a dogaggressive breed. Early socialization with other dogs will help the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel from becoming territorial or timid around other dogs. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will bark when strangers come to the door and may take a few visits before they warm up to new people. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel bonds with family members and will often choose a favorite family member although they will get along with everyone. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a dog that enjoys being outdoors and going on walks and outings despite its small size. They are moderately active if left inside and will play and romp through the house or apartment if they can't go outside. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a natural pleaser and is a very easy dog to train and teach. They respond best to positive rewards and attention and love to be the center of attention.
Health Problems

As a Toy Breed the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is remarkably healthy. There are some serious Health conditions that can occur in the breed as with any type of dog. Buying from a reputable breeder will help eliminate any concerns with these conditions. The following are occasionally seen the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel breed:
Syringomyelia-cysts that form in the spinal cord that produce various levels of pain and immobility. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels are particularly susceptible to this condition so carefully check the bloodlines.

Mitral Valve heart Disease-MVD is a heart condition that causes degeneration of the mitral heart valve. It is fatal in most dogs that have the condition and is typically first diagnosed as a heart murmur. All Cavalier King Charles Spaniels should have a heart exam at their yearly vaccination for early detection.

 Patellar Luxation-kneecap dislocation

Cataracts-eye condition that is often cured with surgery or medications Otitis Externa-ear infections, all breeds with folded ears have this issue

Early onset hearing loss Typically these conditions can be identified by a vet check and health guarantee that will be provided by the breeder. Grooming

As an average shedder it is important to keep the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel well groomed on a regular basis. The dead hair, if not removed from the coat, will result in matting and tangling of the fine, silky hairs that make up the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel coat. Grooming can be easily done in a quick five to ten minute a day or every other day session, depending on how active and how much outside time the dog has. A stiff bristle brush and a grooming comb are all that is needed. Start by brushing the coat in the direction of hair growth, which is down and slightly back along the body and down on the chest and neck. Always brush first before bathing to prevent making any knots or mats worse through the shampooing process. This breed can tolerate regular bathing either full wet bathing or dry powder treatments, but try to avoid bathing too frequently, especially in cold weather. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel may become quickly chilled so always dry completely before letting them outside after a full bath. It is important to carefully trim the long hair on the feet and especially between the pads. Use blunt edged grooming scissors and make sure that you have help to hold the dog or puppy, especially if they are new to the process. Gentle pressure on the top and bottom of the foot will cause the pads to spread apart, making it easy to clip and check for any possible mats or debris that may be trapped. Always check the ears for any sign of discharge in the outer ear area and wipe with cloth and warm water. Never use a Q-Tip or other pointed object in the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel's ear. Also clean the area around the eyes with a damp cloth, use water only, and check for any signs of irritation in the eye typically noted by tearing.
Exercise

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a very adaptable breed of dog that can adjust to the level of activity within the home. They do need regular exercise just as any other breed, but they are happy to just walk around the house with the owner or go for a brisk walk or a morning jog. This

adaptability towards levels of exercise is what makes this breed such a versatile dog for seniors, families, very active individuals and even people with limited mobility. Since the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a dog that will chase it is important to keep them in a fenced yard or on a lead whenever they are out of the house. They are so small they can easily dart out onto a roadway without a driver even noticing, often with tragic results. Early lead training either with a traditional collar or with a harness is the best idea to safeguard the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel when it is outside of the house. As with most toy dogs the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has a lot of spirit and loves to be involved in everything that the family does. They are great travelers and quickly learn to love going in the car. This makes them easy to exercise as they can go anywhere the family goes for changes in exercise locations. As a spaniel breed the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will retrieve small balls and chew toys and typically do this very naturally and will little specialized training. Toy breeds, the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel included, should not be encouraged to jump up or down off of furniture as it can lead to kneecap displacement and joint injuries as the dog ages.
Training

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a very easy dog to train as it is so eager to please and to earn the owners praise and attention. Since they have been used as a companion dog throughout history they are naturally very responsive and well mannered, although like all dogs, they do need to be carefully, positively and consistently trained. Like most toy breeds they can be challenging to housetrain since they are so tiny as puppies. Carefully monitoring the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and taking them outdoors after eating, drinking, waking or playing will greatly help this process. They are naturally clean dogs and will also respond very well to crate training as a housetraining method. Socialization is a key consideration in the Cavalier King Charles Spaniels development. A puppy obedience class is a great way to combine both socialization as well as basic instructions. Often smaller breeds have a tendency to both jump and bark, so it is essential to control both these behaviors right from the start and teach the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel to sit for attention as well as bark once or twice and then stop. Positive reinforcement through praise and attention as well as a simple "no" and ignoring for a few minutes is usually all that is required to help the puppy understand what is acceptable and what is not. Training the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel on a lead is also important. Many people choose to use a harness instead of a traditional collar, as it is easier on the throat area of a small breed, especially if they have a tendency to pull against the collar. An obedience class can help correct this if it is a problem.

Central Asian Ovtcharkas

Life Span:12-14 years

Litter Size:5-7 puppies per litter Group:Working Recognized By:FCI, UKC, ANKC, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:All coat colors and options are possible including solid colors, pintos brindles and particolors. Hair Length:Long, Medium Size:Extra Large Shedding:Lite Shed, Heavy Shed Male Height:27-32 inches (65-78 cm) Male Weight:121-176 pounds (55-79 kg) Female Height:24-27 inches (60-69 cm) Female Weight:88-143 pounds (40-65 kg) Living Area:Your Central Asian Ovtcharka will feel most comfortable outdoors. If, however, they need to be indoors, they can become accustomed to living in this manner as well. But because of their size and personality, it is not recommended that they live in an apartment simply because there will not be enough space and outdoor access for this large breed. The Central Asian Ovtcharka does best in moderate to cold climates and will need to have access to shade or air conditioned areas in very hot climates until the dog adjusts.
Description

Some other aliases are Mid Asian Shepherd, Alabai, Central Asian Shepherd Dog, and Sredneasiatskaia Ovtcharka. The Central Asian Ovtcharka has many different names as well as several different appearances depending on the particular area the dog was bred in. Overall the Central Asian Ovtcharka is a muscular, large Mastiff-type dog with a well balanced appearance and a commanding presence. Often at first glance those not familiar with this rare breed may assume it is mixed breed cross between a St. Bernard and a Mastiff. The body of the Central Asian Ovtcharka is very deep, thick and solid in appearance. The shoulders are massive and sloping, as are the hindquarters. The feet are large, round and somewhat arched, almost cat-like in appearance. The body tends to be relatively long and the back may be slightly arched in some variations of the breed whereas others have a very straight topline. It is estimated by breeders that there may be up to ten variations on the Central Asian Ovtcharka breed, ranging from those bred in Afghanistan to those bred in Russia. In some areas the tail is docked very short, while in others it is left natural and full length.

The most common attribute of all the Central Asian Ovtcharka types is the large, intelligent looking head. The head should resemble a mastiff breed with wrinkling often prominent in some Central Asian Ovtcharkas. The muzzle is short with very little stop, and the eyes are dark, deep set and very alert. The ears are often cropped very short, but more and more this practice is banned, so the ears may be folded over and similar to that of St. Barnard. The head is considered to be bear shaped and the nose is very large and dark in all colors. This breed's coat comes in two different types which are short and long. The coat also comes in a large array of colors. The Central Asian Ovtcharka has a large chest, a wide back and is rugged with big bones. This breed has stronger shoulder muscles and great bones in their forelimbs as well as powerful thighs. Their back is not too long and it is also very strong.
Coat Description

There are two distinct coat varieties in the Central Asian Ovtcharka. The most common coat in the Russian varieties is the longer, double coat that is fairly thick and dense all year round. The hair may be slightly wavy in appearance and very thick and heavy around the ruff. The second coat variety is much sorter and less dense, but still a double coat. This is more common of the Central Asian Ovtcharkas seen in Afghanistan and other counties.
History

The Central Asian Shepherd dogs originate from many different places throughout Central Asia like Tibet, Iran, and the ancient Silk Road. Some people believe that this breed of dog is the ancestor of all the other breeds. There is now genetic evidence that makes it clear that the Tibetan Mastiff is a close relative to the Central Asian Ovtcharka but not an ancestor as was once previously believed. It is important to note that this breed of dog is considered to be the oldest of the ancient Molosser breed of dogs found in the world. Since this breed of dog is found in many different locations throughout Central Asia, it has been given a wide variety of different names. Thus, each individual country or nomadic tribe has named this dog accordingly. This has lead to some confusion about which types of dogs are actually the true breed with the actual standards and which breeds are later developments that were likely crossed with larger native breeds in the various areas The original purpose for the Central Asian Shepherd dog was for protection of the Central Asian nomadic people and their livestock herds and flocks. The Central Asian Ovtcharka was ideal for this role and was a essential component of most farms and families in these areas for thousands of years. They were also left largely outside, allowing the breed to develop into hardy, healthy and enduring dogs that were capable of being very self-sufficient. Still bred in Russia and other areas as protection and guard dogs, the breed is becoming increasingly popular in many other areas as well. Although currently not formally recognized by the AKC they can be shown under the American Rare Breed Association in the United States.
Temperament

Generally, the Central Asian Ovtcharka is a protective and dominant dog that has a very strong protective instinct. However, they are also known for being calm and serene and having a very

fearless and courageous personality. They are not anywhere near as aggressive and fierce as their close relative the Caucasian Ovcharka. The Central Asian Ovtcharka is very aggressive with other dogs and should always be kept on a leash or lead when out of a fenced yard. Since they are so dominant and dog-aggressive it is important to start socialize training as early as possible so that they can feel as comfortable with stranger animals. Within the home, however, they get along very well with other animals whether they are dogs or cats. Because of their protective nature they are highly wary of any stranger. When it comes to children this breed of dog extends its protective personality to them and it is important to make sure that any strangers are carefully supervised around this dog. Children that are strangers to the Central Asian Ovtcharka should not be left alone with this dog. Carefully socialization as puppies can help minimize this issue with the breed. Despite their protective nature the Central Asian Ovtcharka makes a good dog with children. They are not overly playful after then get out of their puppy stage, but they are good companion dogs for families.
Health Problems

The Central Asian Ovtcharka is a very healthy breed. But, to be on the safe side it is recommended to keep your eyes open for a few conditions that it is more prone to through checkups. For example, this breed of dog is known for having elbow and hip problems at times that will need screenings for to make sure that they do not have any of the common genetic disorders that many large breeds acquire. In addition, it is good to know that although Bloat has been a problem for many of the Mastiff breeds it has not been a problem for the Central Asian Ovtcharka. The only other condition that is occasionally seen within the breed is hip and elbow dysplasia. This is not uncommon in most breeds and can be tested for by your vet. Dogs with these conditions should not be used in Breeding programs.
Grooming

The Central Asian Ovtcharka does not require very much grooming and does not need to be professionally groomed at all. While sticks, weeds, mud and other such things tend to get in this dog's coat once they dry they will fall out of the coat and not cause tangles or mats. The coat is naturally very dirt resistant and seems to look clean and groomed even when left natural without regular grooming. The Central Asian Ovtcharka will shed heavily during the spring and then this will be followed by light shedding that extends throughout the remainder of the year. As a result, you will want to brush your dog's coat regularly to remove the dead hair that is being shed from the coat. It is best to do this outside so as to prevent excess hair from accumulating in your home. Keeping up with your dog's coat grooming needs are important, but you will also want to keep up with trimming their nails once a week to prevent overgrowth. This is a simple process that can be done at home once the dog has been trained to sit or lie down. All you will need is a pair of animal nail clippers that can be purchased from most pet stores. Be careful when you are trimming their nails and be sure to only trim the top of the nail and avoid cutting or nicking the

quick. If you need guidance consult with your veterinarian. You may also need to clean your dog's ears especially if they are suffering from a bacterial infection, allergies, or they have an injury or wound. Use baby oil and a cotton ball to clean their ears and be sure not to push too far into the ear as you do not want to damage the ear canal. Simply wipe the outer ear gently. It is important to keep in mind that if your dog is scratching its ears and or shaking its head more often than usual, you will want to take it to the vet for a check up.
Exercise

The Central Asian Ovtcharka is a very agile and alert dog even though they can seem slow or lumbering when they are walking around. While this dog is protecting its home or property to the outside observer it may appear to be a very sedentary dog, however, this is not the case. If you love to jog or hike, the Central Asian Ovtcharka is a wonderful companion dog. While some people believe this breed of dog needs very little exercise and others believe it needs a great amount of exercise there is a happy medium. It is recommended that this dog breed have regular, lengthy exercise times as well as shorter, more intense activities. It is important to walk your Central Asian Ovtcharka regularly to ensure that they have the proper body and muscle development. A home with a large backyard that is fenced in is a good idea to help accommodate their love for the outdoors and their need to be active and exercise. In addition to enjoying being active, this breed of dog enjoys keeping watch over the territory it lives on. And, if there is not a secure fence on the land, the Central Asian Ovtcharka will try to expand and claim as much territory as it possibly can. With a medium to larger sized yard the Central Asian Ovcharka will have enough room to patrol and monitor to keep in good physical shape. As the dog ages he or she will tend to be less active and may need more structured exercise to keep from gaining weight.
Training

The Central Asian Ovtcharka does best with a consistent training regime. Because it is known to be a moderately independent breed of dog training needs to consist of a firm, yet gentle manner and early obedience and socialization is important and recommended. It is very important to create a daily routine that will help prevent housebreaking accidents that can happen when your Central Asian Ovtcharka is first brought home. You will want to create a schedule that consists of taking your dog outside before you go to work, when you get home, and then once again before you go to bed. This routine will help your dog learn to have more control when you are not home. When you give your dog a daily routine it will also help it feel more comfortable around people and its surroundings. Since the breed is so large crate training is often difficult once they have matured past the puppy stage so early housebreaking if they are to be indoor breed is very important. Because the Central Asian Ovtcharka is very protective, training your dog with commands for public situations is important. One great way to get your dog to feel more comfortable around people they do not know is to walk your dog in public. When you are teaching your dog a new

command it is a good idea to give it a treat whenever they complete a command successfully. This will give your dog an incentive to continue to follow your commands and want to please you. In addition, if you are thinking about enrolling your puppy in an obedience training class, it is a good idea to consider both the puppy's age and ability to master basic commands. You may wish to consider speaking with the trainer to let him or her give you some advice on when to best start socializing and training your Central Asian Ovtcharka.

Cesky Terriers
Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size:2-6 puppies Group:Gun Dog, Terrier Recognized By:CKC, FCI, UKC, ANKC, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:Body is blue-gray with furnishings of tan, yellow, white or a light coffee colored furnishings. White is acceptable on the dog but is not always present. Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small, Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:10-13 inches (25-32 cm) Male Weight:13-23 pounds (6-10 kg) Female Height:10-13 inches (25-32 cm) Female Weight:13-23 pounds (6-10 kg) Living Area:The Cesky Terrier can live perfectly within a small space, like an apartment or home without a backyard. Other ideal living situations are ranch style homes and places that have backyards that are medium sized. When the Cesky Terrier dogs are indoors they are moderately active. Because of the size and temperament of this breed of dog, they do not do well in kennel life or when left outside for long periods of time. The breed is not appropriate for outside living even in the daytime in very cold or very hot climates without adequate shelter.

Description

The Cesky Terrier sometimes also referred to as the Bohemian Terrier is a moderately long terrier with short legs. This breed of dog has bushy eyebrows, mustache and beard with a long head that is not too wide. The ears are triangular in shape and are folded over close to the head. The head of the Cesky Terrier is very similar to that of the Sealyham Terrier, although the body and coat is very different. The Cesky Terrier is robust, agile and does not have a heavy body, but the body is solid. The legs are stout and short and the body and chest are relatively deep for the smaller size of the breed. The Cesky Terrier has a beautifully silky, wavy coat is found is a variety of different colors like light coffee, gray blue with tan, gray, white, yellow, and most are actually born black and then lighten as the dog reaches full maturity at about two years of age. The body of the Cesky Terrier is long and low and the tail is typically called against the hind quarters. It is usually not docked and will be approximately eight inches in length. When the dog is excited or alert, the tail is carried horizontal to the ground. Interestingly, the Cesky Terriers' color features vary depending on the color of its coat. For example, this breed of dog has yellow eyes if its coat is brown and if its coat is gray blue its eyes are brown. The Cesky Terriers with brown coats have lips and noses the color of liver and the Cesky Terriers that have blue gray coats have black lips and noses. This breed of dogs ears fold forward remaining close to their heads and they are triangular in shape.
Coat Description

The coat of the Cesky is wavy and slightly silky in texture, not the coat that is typical in most terrier breeds. The hair is relatively long over the entire body but is clipped short on the body and left long on the belly and legs, giving the breed the appearance of having a dual length coat. The longer, untrimmed hair typically reaches to the floor and covers the legs, appearing almost like a flounce or skirt around the dog. The long hair on the beard, moustache and eyebrows is not clipped but is left long.
History

The Cesky Terrier is a relatively new breed. The new breed exists due to Frantisek Horak, a Czeh breeder. This breed is a carefully controlled combination of the Scottish Terriers and the Sealyham Terriers. By crossing the two terriers, Horak's goal was to create a drop eared, short legged, light hunting terrier that would be easy to take care of and would be small enough to go underground and fit into burrows. A breed the Cesky was originally created to be used to hunt rats, foxes and other types of vermin. Currently, the Cesky Terrier is still able to do these things, but it is most commonly used as a companion pet and family dog. Breeders in the early 1980's felt that the breed was not meeting the original breed standards due to possible crossing with other terriers such as the Dandie Dinmont, so additional Sealyham bloodlines were re-introduced in very careful breeding programs to somewhat refine the overall

appearance of the breed. The breed is now popular in many different countries and is becoming more well known within registries and associations. It was first recognized in 1963 by the FCI. Then in 1993 the United Kennel Club recognized the breed. It is a beloved treasure in the Czech country and has been in many art pieces and postage stamps. It is even steadily growing popularity within the UK, Australia, Europe, Canada and the United States because of its pleasant, loving and easy going personality.
Temperament

The Cesky Terrier is known as a happy, sweet dog that is great with children. It is also known for being not as aggressive as some of the other terrier types. They are considered courageous, obedient, loyal, patient and brave dogs. Uncommon to most other terriers, Cesky Terriers generally get alone well with other dogs. This breed of dog does well with strangers however, as a terrier they are still inherently fearless, stubborn and feisty. With strangers they tend to be more reserved and thus, frequent and early socialization with other unknown people is highly recommended. And while they love people, they seem to have a special affinity for children particularly if they are raised in a family with children. They are well mannered and want to please their owners. They love to be around the people they love the most. They crave human interaction and attention and therefore typically are kept exclusively as indoor dogs. When they are puppies, the Cesky Terriers are full of energy, but as they grow older they are more sedentary only becoming very active when they know that it is play time. Keep in mind that Cesky Terriers love eating and stealing food. Do not leave a sandwich unsupervised in the presence of your Cesky Terrier or it will soon be their next meal.
Health Problems

The Cesky Terrier is a very healthy, hardy breed. Because of this it is not prone to any major diseases. On occasion the Cesky Terriers have suffered from Scottie Cramp. This is a very minor problem that usually causes their movements to be awkward. However it is not a painful or life threatening ailment in any way. Like all dog breeds the Cesky Terrier should have regular veterinary check-ups and complete both the puppy vaccination series as well as regular vaccinations as required throughout its life. In addition the dogs will require regular worming and flea and tick treatments in most areas. As with all breeds with folded ears, it is very important to watch for any signs of irritation in the ears. This can include rubbing the head on the ground or carpet, scratching at the ears or any type of discharge or foul smell from the ears. Regular cleaning with a slightly moist cotton ball will help reduce the chances of bacterial infections within the ear.
Grooming

The Cesky Terrier has a coat that will need to be trimmed and cared for on a regular basis. You will want to leave the hair long around your Cesky's face so that the proper eyebrow, moustache

and beard length are left. Trim along the stomach and legs. Typically, a pet Cesky Terrier needs to be trimmed approximately four times a year possibly more. If your Cesky Terrier is a show dog, it will need grooming on a more frequent basis. Unlike most terriers, the Cesky Terriers are clipped with electric clippers and not stripped. You will need to brush their coat about two times a week to prevent tangles and matting. Brushing can be done with a stiff bristle brush or a pin brush, followed by a slicker brush to add shine and help the hair to lie flat. It is also important to make sure that you trim the excessive hair that grows in their ear passages and between the pads of their feed. Often the easiest way to remove the hair from the ear is by plucking, which can be done by a professional groomer when they are clipped. The Cesky Terrier does not shed hair and if they do it is done so in very insignificant amounts. Only bathe the Cesky Terrier when necessary. Like all terriers the Cesky has a natural oil to the coat that helps the hair repel dirt and water. Over bathing or using shampoos on the hair will strip this natural protection and will significantly damage the coat over time. If you do need to bathe the Cesky be sure to use only high quality dog shampoos and conditioners, never use human hair care products. Human hair care products have a different pH as well as perfumes that can trigger allergies and other skin irritations.
Exercise

The Cesky Terrier has minimal exercise needs and they do well in the city or in an apartment. They also make ideal dogs for country live, very active and willing to spend a day out exploring or just being out in the yard or garden with their family. It is important to provide lots of exercise for the breed simply because they both enjoy food and treats plus their body has a slower metabolism, causing them to store fat. Without enough exercise it is very difficult to keep this breed within their ideal weight range as they are prone to weight gain even with small amounts of food. The Cesky Terriers' exercise needs are met easily. If you give them daily exercise with a walk or a nice game of fetch, this will be adequate exercise. This breed of dog also loves to play and run through the open countryside or a wooded area. Even though the Cesky is not a large dog they do enjoy activities such as jogging, hiking and even playing a game of tag with the kids. They are very athletic and enjoy participating in most activities that families do together, and they are typically very fond of riding in vehicles, making them an ideal traveling companion. One way to help the Cesky Terrier stayfit is to involve them in a daily exercise and training routine. This can be a relatively short period of twenty to thirty minutes twice a day in which the owner and dog spend time walking or jogging but also randomly making other requests such as "sit and stay" or even "fetch". This combination of both training and exercise helps to keep the dog focused on the owner as well as adding mental stimulation for the dog.
Training

Cesky Terriers are quite responsive, sensitive and intelligent dogs making training them an easy process. However, it is important to keep in mind that they have a soft, mild mannered personality that does not do well with hard, negative training tactics. It is best to work with the

puppy from a young age, focusing on building rapport and trust with the dog. This breed of dog is very often quite naturally obedient as their personality is very loving and anxious to please. These dogs need a consistent and positive training regime. Because they have a great love of food, one of the most common training needs is to rid them of this behavior. It is also often the most difficult problem to correct. Keeping food and garbage in secure areas of the house or out of the reach of curious puppies and dogs will help prevent this habit from forming. Along these lines, it is very important to begin house breaking your Cesky Terrier right away. One of the easiest methods of housetraining a terrier is to use a crate training routine. This enables the owner to take advantage of the puppies nature urge to keep their den area clean. People using crate training have to be very consistent with their timing to avoid the puppy using the crate as a toilet area. Puppies should never be punished for this accident, as it truly is a timing error on the part of the trainer. In addition the crate should not be used as a punishment or "timeout" under any conditions. Cesky Terriers, like all dogs, will need to have a socialization component to their training from an early age. This is as simple as taking your puppy with you in the car, to the park, and on strolls around the neighborhood. The better socialized the puppy is the more it will be able to adjust to new things and people in its life without becoming timid or aggressive. Most breeders of terriers recommend some type of puppy obedience training. This is an ideal way to combine the socialization component with learning how to be a better owner and dog handler. Older dogs may also continue on to more advanced obedience training for competitions or just for personal satisfaction for the owner. This breed can also be used in agility events, obedience competitions and earthdog and some hunting trials.

Chesapeake Bay Retrievers

Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:7-8 puppies Group:Gun dog, AKC Sporting group Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC Color:All colors of brown from tawny or sand through to dark brown with red or mahogany highlights. A small amounts of white on the chest and feet is acceptable. Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:23-26 inches (58-66 cm)

Male Weight:65-80 pounds (29-36 kg) Female Height:21-24 inches (53-61 cm) Female Weight:55-70 pounds (25-32 kg) Living Area:Outdoors or indoors, medium to large yard.
Description

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a large, muscular dog that is sturdy and very solid looking even as a puppy. They come in various shades of brown ranging from a lighter tan or straw color through to a deep brown or mahogany color. The coat is rather short and may be somewhat wavy, especially down the back and around the neck and shoulder area. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever has a unique double coat that is slightly oily to the touch on both the inner and outer layers. This ensures that the dog can easily go in and out of the water even in very cold weather while only having minimum amounts of water stay in their coat. The tail is thick at the base and tapers to the end, usually carried slightly curled or flat. The head of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is broad and wide with a powerful and yet gentle looking slightly tapered muzzle. The shape of the skull is very round and the stop is not as pronounced giving a softer profile to the head than some breeds of retrievers. The hair on the head and face is much shorter than the hair on the rest of the body and the large round eyes are very visible. The eyes are yellow to amber in color and are particularly striking on the darker colored dogs. The ears are small in comparison to many of the hunting breeds and hang down just to the level of the mouth or lower jaw. They fold over completely and are not held erect. The neck is strong and muscular and blends nicely into the powerful front shoulders of the breed. The front legs and straight and well boned and muscled. The body is slightly longer than it is high at the withers, with a well-developed chest and ribcage. The hind legs are very strong and powerful, easily able to propel the dog through water to allow them to run for long periods of time. The feet are webbed to enhance swimming ability.
Coat Description

The coat is very dense, short and somewhat oily to the touch. Although the breed is double coated they are average shedders year round. The oils in the coat usually do not cause either an odor or management problem and the dogs should only be bathed occasional when necessary. The coat may be straight all over the body although wavy but not curly hair on the neck, chest and back is acceptable and very common.
History

It is believed that the Chesapeake Bay Retriever breed originated when a shipwreck occurred off the coast of Maryland in 1807. The story is that there were two Newfoundland dogs onboard that survived the shipwreck and these were given to a local family that was known as animal lovers.

The family then crossed the Newfoundland's with local retrievers and possibly native dogs which eventually led to the development of a very hardy breed that was able to swim in the cold waters in the Chesapeake Bay. Some breeders indicate that the Irish Water Spaniel, bloodhound and other local mixed hound breeds may also form a part of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever's heritage. The Chesapeake Bay Retrievers continued to be a popular dog in the area, and their amazing endurance and ability to tolerate even the coldest water temperatures with little concern earned them a place in duck and goose hunter's hearts. There are several claims by owners of the breed that they are capable of retrieving over a hundred ducks per day with some records of dogs bringing in up to 200 per day. Currently the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is used as a watchdog, hunting dog, retriever, trial dog, obedience dog as well as a faithful family pet and companion dog. The watchdog abilities are more pronounced in some lines than others and knowing the personality of the parents will really help in choosing a more or less protective puppy. Their natural hunting and retrieving ability has also made them popular as a schutzhund breed. This demanding competition involves intelligence, agility and obedience as well as excellent communication between the handler and the dog.
Temperament

A Chesapeake Bay Retriever is an excellent family dog that is generally very good with children and other pets. It is important to properly socialize this breed as they are more dog-aggressive than other retrievers and can become territorial. They are good watchdogs and have a natural wariness with strangers however regular socialization and exposure to new people and new environments will help prevent this from becoming a problem. Unlike many of the hunting dog breeds the Chesapeake Bay Retriever tends to be much more independent and stubborn than the norm. They can be dominant and are known for their selective hearing of commands they simply wish to ignore. Not a mean spirited dog they just need consistent training and lots of positive praise for a job well done. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is an excellent dog for obedience training at a young age to establish good behaviours and decrease the tendency for willfulness or independence. The breed maybe somewhat dog-aggressive and should be socialized regularity and throughout their lives. Usually male Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are more dog-aggressive than females and neutering can assist in preventing this issue from developing. They can be excellent companion dogs with socialization and will even get along with non-canine pets in the house. They are prone to chase however and often will really enjoy running the neighbor's cat out of the yard. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is an intelligent dog that learns best with repetition. They should always be trained using positive rewards and methods as their natural independence will only increase if negative training techniques are used. They are naturals at fetching and swimming and love exercise of all types in almost any kind of weather. They are not a hyperactive dog but do need regular, longer periods of exercise. In the house they are typically very relaxed and calm and will simply find a comfortable place to stay out of the way. They are not demanding of

attention but love to be able to keep the family in sight. Since the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a more independent breed they are able to tolerate moderate amounts of time alone. They are a great dog for a family that has evenings and weekends at home but someone may not be there at all times. Generally not a destructive dog with proper training and exercise they do need to be kept in a yard because of their chasing and dog aggressive tendencies. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is not recommended as a first dog for families or individuals that have not trained dogs unless they are planning to take the puppy to a socialization and obedience class. Since they are a large dog when fully grown it is important to have them well trained before they reach their mature size.
Health Problems

Overall the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a relatively healthy breed. As with all of the large sized dogs they are somewhat prone to Gastric torsion or Bloat and should have several small meals rather than one large meal. They should not be exercised immediately after eating. The breed may also have problems with growth as puppies (OCD) and hip dysplasia is a minor concern. Progressive Retinal Atrophy and Entropion are eye conditions that are seen in the breed.
Grooming

The short, dense coat of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is very easy to maintain. Brushing with a short wire brush or pin brush is all that is required to remove any dead hair and debris. Since the breed has a natural water repelling coat they should only be bathed when necessary to prevent drying the coat and skin. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever does not need to be clipped or trimmed. The ears and eyes of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever should be checked for any signs of irritation. The eyes are prone to entropion, which is cause when the eyelids invert and the eyelashes irritate the eyes. Watch for any sign of tearing or irritation as this problem can be corrected surgically before any persistent eye problems occur. Clean any waxy build-up out of the ears or if the wax build up is heavy take the dog to the vet and have the ears flushed to remove the debris and wax. Never stick human Q-tips or other ear cleaning devices in a dog's ear.
Exercise

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever requires long, regular exercise to keep focused and avoid getting involved in destructive behaviors. They love to swim and should be allowed to do so as often as possible. One of the amazing features of the oily coat is that once they come out of the water and shake they are damp, but not wet like other dogs. The breed is a natural retriever and will quickly learn games of fetch. Because they are a heavier breed and have some hip and elbow problems Frisbee is not recommended as the jumping and landing action of the game can make joint problems significantly more problematic. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a good companion dog for hiking, jogging and traveling. When

properly socialized they love to go new places and are considered good in vehicles, although they will take up a lot of space. They should be walked on a lead when other dogs are present but really do need a large yard or area where they are free to run and exercise.
Training

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is an intelligent dog that is methodical and devoted to the family provided they are trained and socialized. The breed is not as fast to learn as some of the other dog breeds and they do require a patient trainer that will provide ample repetition to gain master of the tricks and commands. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever should only be trained by one person until they have mastered the command to prevent them from being confused and possibly detracting from the training experience. They need to be worked using a positive training method and will do very poorly when treated harshly or punished. Typically they are very sensitive to owner's moods and tone of voice and a slight reprimand is all that is necessary to get them to stop a behavior. Socialization at an early age is extremely important with this breed as they will become more dog-aggressive as they age without socialization. Dog aggression is most noted in unaltered males so neutering is highly recommended for dogs. Females that are spayed are also less aggressive and tend to be more focused on people rather than distracted by other dogs. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a great dog for children and once trained will follow directions even from young kids. They love to swim and retrieve and will require little training in these areas. It is always important to completely exercise this breed before training sessions as they can be somewhat independent and stubborn or distracted when not properly exercised. If you wish to house this breed with other pets including cats it is very important to work with the dog at the earliest possible stages in acceptance of other pets. They can be very good in a house with cats but are less recommended for houses with other small animals. Training should begin when the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a puppy, ensuring that the cat and the puppy get along well. The natural independence and dominance of the breed makes it more difficult to train than other retrievers. Owners must positively and gently assert that they are the boss or this large dog will try to dominant the family. They also have an aloof presentation around strangers and should be introduced to lots of new people throughout their life to prevent them from becoming overly protective or possessive of their territory. Although not recommended for first time dog owners the breed can easily be trained through use of a professional trainer or obedience class provided the owners are willing to practice and follow through with the lessons.

Chihuahuas
Life Span:14-18 years

Litter Size:1-4 puppies, with 2 being the average. Group:Toy Group

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Any solid, marked, or splashed color. Hair Length:Long, Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:stand 6-9 inches at the withers. Male Weight:No more than 6 pounds Female Height:stand 6-9 inches at the withers. Female Weight:No more than 6 pounds Living Area:Chihuahuas are not outside dogs. They are at home in apartments, as well as in the country. Due to their size, they should never be left unattended outdoors as birds and other wildlife will make them easy prey. This breed does well with novice or first-time dog owners.
Description

Rather than being bred down from a larger breed, the Chihuahua is the only toy breed that is naturally small. The Chihuahua has a well rounded, apple shaped head. The muzzle is tiny in contrast to the head, will be slightly pointed, and either have a level or scissors bite. Ears are large and erect, spaced far apart and will flair to the sides when relaxed. Their eyes are round and large (but not protruding), very expressive, and should either be dark or ruby colored .The nose is short, pointed, and black. Light-colored eyes, and pink noses are allowed in blonde-colored dogs. The body is robust and compact, with well sprung ribs. Measurements from wither to tail should be longer than from withers to ground. Shorter bodies are preferred in males. The neck is slightly arched, sloping into lean shoulders, and continuing down into a level topline. Their front legs should be straight, short, and square-shaped, with the back legs being well-muscled and thin. The feet are small and dainty with well split toes. And finally, the long sickle-shaped tail should curl, looping over the back with the tip just barely touching the back.

Coat Description

The AKC recognizes two different variations of coats: the longhaired and the shorthaired. Both variations are minimum to average shedders. A shorthaired Chihuahua's coat should be smooth and glossy, whilst being a little coarser than a longhaired Chihuahua; an undercoat is allowed. The coat should be a little longer on the body than the head and ears; the tail should be furry. A ruff around the neck is preferred. The longhaired Chihuahua's coat should be soft, and either lay flat or slightly curly; an undercoat is also preferred. Ears, feet, front and back legs should have feathering; the tail should be plumed. It is also desirable to have a large ruff around the neck.
History

Though the exact nature of where or how the Chihuahua came to be, there are many speculations of possible ways they happened to come about. The earliest specimens were found, during the time of the Aztecs, in Chihuahua, Mexico. However, its place of origin is more likely to be the whole entire country, rather than in just the one state. Archaeologists have dated their history as far back as the 5th century A.D, as well as finding evidence of the breed in central and southern Mexico, and in South America as well. One speculation is that a breed similar to the Chihuahua was brought to America by Spanish traders from China, where it was then mixed with the Techichi. It was then thought to have been brought to Europe at the end of the 19th century. Another theory is that the Chihuahua originated in Europe, and was then brought to America by Columbus. Proof is presented in the Sistine Chapel... a painting by Sondro Botticelli done in 1482 shows a dog resembling a Chihuahua; the painting was completed before Columbus sailed to America. Another theory, one that is most likely, is that the Techichi were mixed with the Chinese Crested, brought from Asia to Alaska via the Bering Strait, or brought later by Spanish traders sailing from China. The Techichi, (a companion dog of the Toltecs) is believed to be the ancestors to theChihuahua. They were often sacrificed in religious Toltec rituals. Believed to guide the soul to the underworld, the sins of the human were supposed to be transferred to the Techichi because it appeased to the gods. It's apparent that they were well for cared for during life, until they were sacrificed and buried with the deceased. Both the Aztecs and the Toltecs often used the little dogs for food. While the wealthy Aztecs regarded them as being sacred, it was the commoners that saw no use for them and ate them. Materials have been found in the Pyramids of Cholula predating 1530, in the ruins of Chichen Itza on the Yucatan Peninsula, the Monastery of Huejotzingo (built with material taken from the Pyramids of Cholula), and on the Highway from Mexico City to Puebla. All of the pictures depicter a little dog with a large round head looking very much like the Chihuahua of today. After the Spaniards finished destroying the Aztecs, the little dogs were abandoned and left to

fend for themselves. In 1850, in the ruins believed to be of Emperor Montezuma I palace, these tiny dogs were once again found. Some were brought to the United States where they were first referred to as "Texas or Arizona Dogs" because of the Texas-Arizona-Mexican borders from whence they came. First exhibited in the United States in 1890, they were not registered by the AKC until 1904. In 1923 the Chihuahua Club of America was organized and were responsible for writing the standard, which has not been extensively changed since. It wasn't until 1952 that the Club decided to split them into two varieties depending on the coat.
Temperament

The Chihuahua is a lively, charming, and intelligent breed. They are very devoted to their owners, though usually only choose one or two "favorites". Not only do they give affection, they in turn demand it. Their creative and curious nature drives them to create various ways to gain your attention. Owners of more independent breeds may find the Chihuahua too needy. Households with older children are preferred, as they can be injured easily by younger children. Valued for their loyalty and courageousness, they often become "full of themselves" and will challenge much larger dogs and strangers, and because of their size this can often result in severe injuries or possibly death. They are also very suspicious of strangers (which also makes them good watchdogs), and will not let you out of their sight. It's often said they have "terrier-like" qualities... as they are very alert, observant, bold and saucy. They are very clannish nature, meaning that they'd choose to be with other Chihuahuas, over other dogs. Some can be quite the sun-bathers, choosing to lay in the sun for hours, thought this must be closely monitored to avoid heat strokes. Their gentleness and sweet nature makes them perfect for elderly and handicapped people. Never leaving your side, they will lay in bed with you for hours on end; preferably under the covers... of which they love. They can sometimes be overly insecure and high-strung, which can result in separation anxiety. Chihuahus are known to bark excessively when left alone for too long. If you find yourself out of the home for long periods of time, then this is not the breed for you, as they thrive on their humans. They are also not recommended for being in a home with small children (unless raised with them) as they may resort to biting in self defense. Many tend to be fairly dog-aggressive. Their level of devotion to their humans can become a problem, as they are sometimes overly jealous of their humans relationships with one another and animals.
Health Problems

Common Health Problems seen in Chihuahuas are:

patellar luxation (kneecap slips out of place) Demodicosis

 Cystinuria

mitral valve heart disease Hemophilia (genetic bleeding disorder where the blood does not clot) pulmonic stenosis KCS hydrocephalus hypoglycemia eye problems undescended testes

Epilepsy collapsing tracheas jawbone disorders rheumatism fractures dental problems Heart Murmurs and seizure disorders. Another problem that is seen is Cystinuria, which is when crystals (created from the amino acid, cystine) form in the urine and create kidney and bladder stones. Blood in the urine or urinating in small amounts, are indications of whether or not stones are present. This can be treated, though it is a lifelong commitment. Mitral valve Heart disease, is caused by irregular functions of the valve separating the upper and lower chambers of the left side of the heart. Males have a 50% more likelihood of being affected than female dogs. Usually occurring in older dogs, there is no cure for Mitral valve disease, though there are some medications that may help in prolonging their life. Symptoms include: passing out, lethargy, and weakness. Chihuahuas are the only breed of dog not born with fully developed skulls. Usually not until 3 or 4

months of age does it finally form. Because of this, they are susceptible to hydrocephalus, or water on the brain. hydrocephalus is when the fluid, instead of being removed, builds up in the brain and enlarges the skull; usually resulting in death by 6 months of age. Symptoms of this disease can be:

lethargy, not growing at the same rate as the rest of the litter unusually large molera eye abnormalities loss of balance even seizures. It is not known whether or not it is congenital. A veterinarian can help determine whether it is a normal molera, or hydrocephalus. In some, a molera may never fully close and they are able lead happy, healthy lives. They are also at risk for hypoglycemia (low glucose or sugar level). This can be fixed by leaving food out at all times, or Feeding multiple small meals throughout the day. If left unnoticed, hypoglycemia can lead to comas or even death. They may also seem to have a tendency to tremble, but this is not a Health issue; it is usually caused by stress or excitement. Eye problems are another problem often seen in Chihuahuas, due to their large, protruding eyes. Progressive Retinal Atrophy or PRA (hereditary degenerative lesions of the retina), Generalized PRA (results in night blindness in both eyes), and Central PRA (results in day blindness are ones most often seen. Both generalized and central PRA will lead to total blindness. Chihuahuas will also need help during whelping due to that puppies have very large heads. A C-section is usually scheduled before whelping occurs, instead of doing a natural birth. They are also known for gaining weight rather quickly, which can also increase their chance for joint injuries and tracheal collapse. Grooming

Though grooming varies between the longhaired and shorthaired Chihuahua, there is a general amount of other care that they should both receive. The teeth should be regularly checked for tarter, gum disease, and tooth decay. Dental problems are a common health problem with this breed, so keeping them clean is of utmost importance. Nails should be trimmed on a monthly basis. Bathing should only be done when necessary, as over bathing will remove the natural oils

from the coat and dandruff will develop, leaving the coat looking dull. Take care to fully dry out their ears as they can become infected if left wet for too long. Also remember to pay close attention to the eyes. Use a cotton ball, dipped in a small amount of saline to clean the eye. The breed is also known to have very watery eyes, this can cause tearstains. By applying saline (or any other tearstain removal products) to the stain will help to reduce, or even eliminate ,the stains. This should be done one to two times a week depending on the level of staining. Regarding grooming requirements, the shorthaired Chihuahua only needs an occasional brushing once or twice a week. They tend to not need as many baths as the longhaired Chihuahua. For the longhaired Chihuahua, regular brushing with a bristle brush at least two to three times per week is needed, though daily brushing is often recommended. The bib (the long hair on the chest) should at least be brushed daily. Another area that can be a problem is the rear end, as fecal matter and other stuff can become stuck. This area is usually clipped shorter or bathed more frequently.
Exercise

Due their size, they are able to get enough exercise just running from room to room. This makes them a great apartment dog, as they do not need a lot of space to exercise in, compared to a larger dog. They should not be allowed to jump off furniture as they are very fragile and break bones easily. Though, this does not mean that they would not enjoy a short walk on leash. This playful breed enjoys being with their owners and going on outings, though in wintertime they may require a jacket to keep warm. It's common for some owners to carry them around in soft carrier-type shoulder bags, though they are perfectly fine to walk by themselves; it also helps them stay in shape. Because of their fragile bone structure around the neck and throat, a Y-shaped harness should be used rather than a collar.
Training

Though trained fairly easily, one difficulty with this breed is housebreaking. Because of their size, some owners will try ('try' being the operative word) training them to go on a "pee pad" or in a litter box. Paper training is never really 100%, though in some dogs it can, but rarely. In reality, your dog would forgo going on grass or other surfaces, making trips a hassle as you will need a travel pad. If you plan on staying in a hotel, or being a guest in someone's home, most people would not be very welcoming to you bringing a litter box with you. Not only do most dogs miss the pad entirely, but they will then go on any paper or pad left on the floor to do their business. Proper housetraining should be done outside. It tends to be because of their size that most people decided to paper-train them. If one does want to only use a litter box or pad, constant praise is a MUST, each and every time they go on the pad; a pad inside of a litter box

works best as its easier to clean up. Early socialization with this breed is very important. They should be exposed to different places, people, animals and other dogs, starting at an early age. Socialization with other dogs is a major requirement as most Chihuahuas can be dog-aggressive.

Chinese Cresteds
Life Span:10-12 years, not a long lived breed Litter Size:2-4 puppies per litter Group:AKC Toy Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:All colors and patterns acceptable. Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Does Not Shed, Lite Shed Male Height:12 inches (30cm) Male Weight:10 pounds or less (4.5kg) Female Height:12 inches (30cm) Female Weight:10 pounds or less (4.5kg) Living Area:The Chinese Crested Dog is an inside dog under almost any circumstance. The Powder Puff can tolerate being outside more easily than the Hairless. They will self exercise in the house or apartment and make ideal indoor pets.

Description

There are two very distinct coat types to the Chinese Crested Dog. The first one is the one that most people are familiar with which is the hairless variety. These small dogs have hair on the head, ears, tail and feet and the rest of the body appears to be skin, although a very fine downy hair actually exists. The second and less commonly recognized variety of the Chinese Crested in

the Powder Puff. These dogs have a full, thick and long coat of fine, silky hair that is uniformly long all over the body. It is interesting to note that both the Powder Puff and the Hairless varieties of the Chinese Crested Dog will be found in the same litter and there is really no way to predict what variety will occur between a particular mating. The head of the Chinese Crested Dog is very fox like in shape and overall appearance. It is a wedge shape when viewed either from straight above or to the side, with a noticeable stop and a finely tapering muzzle. The skull is slightly dome shaped or rounded between the ears. The eyes are almond shaped, very dark, alert and rather intense or focused looking. The ears are left natural and are not cropped and are spaced well to the sides of the head. In a soft triangular shape, they stick out to the sides of the head, not towards the top of the head as in most breeds. Often in the hairless variety there is rather poor tooth alignment and even some missing teeth, although in the Powder Puff all teeth should be present in the show dogs. The neck of the Chinese Crested Dog is long and graceful and positioned high on the shoulders. It is usually somewhat arched, giving the dog a very refined and aloof appearance. The shoulders are very sloping and the body tends to be narrow. The ribcage and chest are proportional and there is a noticeable tuck up at the abdomen, especially obvious in the hairless Chinese Crested Dog. The tail is long and tapered, carried parallel to the ground when the dog is in motion and curving gently upwards when the dog is stopped. In the Powder Puff variety the tail is completely covered in hair and in the Hairless the tail should be covered at least 2/3rds in long, silky hair. The legs are well developed and straight with heavy hair covering on the feet in both varieties. The Chinese Crested Dog should move gracefully and actively without excessive leg action. In the ring they should have a natural jauntiness or proud carriage and should be well behaved, neither aggressive or timid in temperament.
Coat Description

The coat of the Powder Puff is uniformly long and silky over the entire body. Hairless Chinese Crested Dog will have varying amounts of long silky hair on the head, ears, lower legs and tail but elsewhere on the body there will only be a very fine down which is almost unnoticeable.
History

Unlike the what the name would indicate, the Chinese Crested Dog is believed to have originated from the African hairless dog breed. It was then discovered by Chinese sailors and merchants traveling to African ports and used on their ships as ratters. When the breed was brought back to China they were bred smaller and with a greater emphasis on temperament, then redistributed in trading ventures as the "Chinese Hairless" or "Chinese Crested". Another theory is that the Chinese Crested Dog actually developed with the Aztecs by breeding the Mexican Hairless with the Chihuahua. It is believed that the Aztecs actually used these dogs as companion dogs but also as bedwarmers in the cold months. These dogs may have also been

used for human consumption at special events in the Aztec calendar. Regardless of the exact lineage the Chinese Crested Dog is certainly a unique and different type of dog that has attracted a specific type of dog lover throughout its history. In the 1800's the breed became known in Europe and North America, specifically the United States. It did not become a recognized breed by the American Kennel Club until 1991 but is steadily increasing in popularity among rare dog breed fanciers.
Temperament

For a family that wants a loving, funny and very intelligent dog that is relatively easy to care for a Chinese Crested Dog may be just the answer. They are ideal pets for virtually all types of families and individuals provided they have fairly constant contact with humans. They are not a good breed of dog if you have a busy household where people are gone for long periods of time. Bred and developed as a companion dog the Chinese Crested Dog does need lots of time with the family and will resort to negative and problematic behaviors when left alone. The Chinese Crested Dog is one breed of dog that does bond very strongly to its owners. They will often form a very close bond with one or two people in the family and often this bond is for the life of the dog. Even when these people leave the house the dog will continue to wait for them or to look for them. The Chinese Crested Dog is very difficult to rehome or adopt for this reason and most breeders are highly selective about choosing which families will best suit the breed. As a very intelligent dog the Chinese Crested Dog requires little in the way of specialized training but will definitely benefit from a puppy obedience class. Some of the breed may be somewhat headstrong and stubborn as puppies, however this is usually more of a phase they go through rather than an actual type of temperament. The Chinese Crested Dog will learn to love climbing up on a lap or on a favorite spot on the couch and just being close. The Chinese Crested Dog may be timid around new people, sudden noises and other changes in the environment. Taking them out in public, providing lots of socialization as well as allowing them to just play and act as dogs is important.
Health Problems

As with all dogs the Chinese Crested Dog has some Health conditions that owners should be aware of. These health conditions can be screened typically when the dogs are very young and can also be largely prevented by testing the potential Breeding pair. The most common health issues include:
Patellar Luxation-dislocation of the kneecaps, common in all small breeds and some of the larger breeds.

 Legg Calve Perthes Disease-a degeneration of the femur causing joint immobility and pain

Skin allergies-particularly to wool and lanolin products Dental problems-often this breed is born with incomplete teeth both as puppies and adults. Teeth tend to fall out at an early age and also have extreme tartar build up. In addition the hairless variety of Chinese Crested Dog are very prone to acne like break outs on the skin and also are very prone to sunburn. Applying sunscreen to the dog is essential in the summer months as is having them properly protected from the cold even when outside in the winter months. Grooming

Grooming the Chinese Crested Dog depends largely on the variety of Chinese Crested Dog. The Hairless variety requires more overall attention although less actual grooming. A grooming comb can be used to keep the hair on the tail, head and feet free from mats and tangles on a daily or every other day basis. The skin of the Hairless Chinese Crested Dog does require care. They require regular bathing to prevent acne from forming on the skin. Always use non-allergenic and scent free dog products, never use human products or perfumed products on these dogs as they are prone to allergies. Talk to the breeder about a brand or type of skin care products they recommend for the dog. The hairless Chinese Crested Dog will need moisturizer applied to the skin to prevent drying and flaking. In the summer months a good quality sunscreen should be applied to the skin before the dog is taken outside. In the winter some type of coat or sweater should also be used, even if the dog is simply going outside to toilet as they are very susceptible to chills and colds. The Powder Puff Chinese Crested Dog will need regular daily or every other day grooming to keep the long, silky hair looking in the best possible condition. The outer coat can be groomed using a wide toothed comb and the heavier, thicker undercoat will need special attention to ensure that mats and tangles are not forming. The Chinese Crested Dog doesn't shed like other dogs but the dead hear that is dropped from the skin will become trapped in the existing live hairs, resulting in mats that become progressively worse. Regular grooming on a daily or alternative day basis will prevent this problem from occurring. The teeth of the Chinese Crested Dog are very poor, with the hairless variety having the lightest coating of enamel, resulting in tooth decay and early loss. Start regularly brushing the Chinese Crested Dog's teeth as soon as possible, ideally from their puppy stage.
Exercise

The Chinese Crested Dog is prone to weight gain if inactive, so finding a way to keep your Chinese Crested Dog active is important. They do enjoy outdoor walks and are good on the leash once properly socialized and acclimatized to being in new environments and places. Since the Hairless has no protection for its skin it is not recommended for walks that involve going through

brushes or even heavy grasses as the skin can easily be cut or injured. The Chinese Crested Dog does enjoy playing, but care must be taken to avoid accidentally injuring these small dogs. They love to spend time with kids and do best with children that understand the unique needs of this small dog. The Chinese Crested Dog can be taught to fetch and retrieve and loves to play games like hide and seek either with favorite toys or with the family. They do get along well with other dogs and will play and interact with dogs, cats and other pets. Again it is more important to monitor any injuries that may occur on the hairless variety as they don't have the natural protection of a protective coat. The Chinese Crested Dog will quickly learn to play and run in the house, often to the delight of the family. They are very agile and can climb similar to a cat often surprising owners with the strange places they manage to climb into. Try to avoid having the Chinese Crested Dog jump either up or down as this can lead to joint problems as the dog matures.
Training

The Chinese Crested Dog is considered a breed that is very easy to train. They are naturally very clean dogs and even as puppies will do their best to avoid messing in the house or in areas where they are kept. Since in very cold or very hot climates going outside to toilet can be a problem, many owners of Chinese Crested Dogs teach these dogs to use litter boxes or even puppy pads. The Chinese Crested Dog, without socialization and exposure to new places, animals and people, will have a tendency to become frightened and timid. While not a problem barker they can become problems if they are very nervous or bored, so provide lots of socialization as well as things to play with and chew on. They can become destructive with chewing if left alone for too long but exercise, chew toys and lots of human attention can prevent this issue from becoming a problem. The Chinese Crested Dog is an ideal dog for those that want a pet that can do unique and interesting tricks. The Chinese Crested Dog is known to commonly sit up, walk on his or her hind legs, jump through and over objects and climb ladders and other objects with just a bit of coaxing. Since they are very "in tune" with their owners they will do whatever it takes to make the owner happy. One tendency with these dogs is to really baby them because of their small size and waif like expressions. Too much carrying and coddling can actually cause these dogs distress and increase the likelihood they will have separation anxiety and problem behavior when left alone. They are dogs and need to be given time to just be dogs. Socialization with other small dogs, interactions with cats and other pets and playing with kids and family members is an important part of both training and socialization. The Chinese Crested Dog loves to dig when outside so you may wish to train the dog to use a particular digging area, rather than the landscaped areas. Consider hiding a few treats of favorite

toys in the area then praising the dog for digging them up. They will quickly learn where is a good place to dig and where they should not.

Chinese Foos
Life Span:10-12 years. Litter Size:3-6 puppies. Group:Northern/Companion, Working, Guarding, Hunting Color:Any shade or combination of black, black and tan, blue, brown and blue, cream and sable, fawn (yellow-cream to brown), orange, red (light gold to deep mahogany), sable, wolfgray (medium gray to silver); (with or without minor, limited white markings).

Hair Length:Long, Short Size:Toy/Small, Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:Toy 10 in or less/25 cm or less, Miniature: 1-15 cms/25-38 cm, Standard: over 15 in/over 38 cm Male Weight:Small: up to 20 lbs/ up to 9 kg, Medium: 21-50 lbs/95. kg.-22 kg, Large: 51 lbs and up/23 kg and up Female Height:Toy 10 in or less/25 cm or less, Miniature: 10-15 cms/25 -38 cm, Standard: over 15 in/over 38 cm Female Weight:Small: up to 20 lbs/ up to 9 kg, Medium: 21-50 lbs/95. kg - 22 kg, Large: 51 lbs and up/23 kg and up Living Area:The smaller Chinese Foo Dog (Toy and Miniature) will do fine in an apartment, motor home and trailer type homes. The larger types can weigh as much as 50 pounds and need to be kept outdoors since they have the tendency to become couch potatoes if they are not motivated.
Description

Some other aliases are the Chinese Choo Hunting Dog, the Chinese Temple Forest Dog, the Chinese T'ien Kou (Chinese Celestial Dog) and the Chinese Lung- Kou (Chinese Dragon Dog).

The Chinese Foo dog is compact and has a square profile. It comes in three sizes: Toy, Miniature or Standard. It has a moderately broad head with pricked ears and the tail is carried over its back (like other Spitz family members). Their chest is deep and moderately broad with a short, powerful and compact body, well-sprung ribs, and short, wide, muscular loins. It has a broad wedge shaped heal and the muzzle and back of the skull look to be of equal length when regarded from the side. The stop isn't large, but it is clearly defined. The nose is straight and usually black in color. Its ears are set high and are firm and erect when on alert. They are rather small considering the size of the dog, and are rounded at the tips. The Chinese Foo has wonderfully strong teeth that meet in a snug scissors or reverse scissors bite. Its mouth and tongue may be blue/black or pink/red. Eyes are usually dark brown, not protruding and are almond in shape. They are bright, showing their intelligence, fearlessness and inquiring nature. The Chinese Foo sports a very strong neck that is muscular with a slight arch as well as muscular and sloping shoulders. Their legs are straight and powerful, firm and moderate in length. Pasterns upright or slightly bent.
Coat Description

The Chinese Foo is double-coated and the thick, weather-resistant (and often standing up) coat is a coarse, straight-haired outer coat with a soft, dense, woolly undercoat. It is smooth, short, thick and rich on the head and on the front of the legs. The neck, buttocks, chest, hind part of legs and underside of the tail have the longest hair. The double-coat comes in a short Plush or the longer Rough.
History

The Chinese Foo (A Spitz-type dog ) hails originally from China and was bred for guarding Buddhist temples, and can be dated back to Antiquity. The naming of this dog is extremely significant to the Buddhist religion. The Chinese Foo looks like a lion, which is a sacred animal to Buddhists. The Chinese word for Buddha is Fo, which led to the original name - the Dog of Fo. It is said the Chinese Foo Dog came to be through a crossing of Northern European hunting dogs and that of the ancient Chow Chow from the barren steppes of Mongolia. Another belief is the Chinese Foo Dog is perhaps the missing link between the Chinese Wolf and the Chow Chow. The Chinese Foo is from China, and probably gets its name from the city of Foochow (now Minhow) in southeast China. This multi-talented breed has been used as a herding and hunting dog as well as a sledding and watchdog throughout its history.

The Chinese Foo Dog is the mascot of the Tongs who believe it brings good luck. The Tong is a Chinese fraternity and the oldest secret cult in the world. The Tong bred and kept this dog as a symbol of its organization.
Temperament

Temperament-This is an active, courageous, agile, alert, hardy and strong dog, which speaks to its hunting and working heritage. Bold and energetic in temperament-it makes a very effective and efficient (but friendly), guardian. The Chinese Foo is a highly devoted family pet with great dignity and independence of character-meaning it tends to be an independent thinker and not always as obedience as you might like. Working dogs, like the Chinese Foo, are medium to giant size and strong, and can be domineering and difficult to manage. This together with their size can make many working dogs unsuitable as a normal family pet or for first time dog owners. These dogs must be properly trainer and need a firm handler. Despite its size, this is an excellent indoor pet and does not become destructive when left alone indoors. It's filled to the brim with energy and treats companion family members with affection. It responds well to training and is easily socialized. It is playful and does well with children. It is an even-tempered breed, but it will not back down when confronted. It is brave and will effectively guard its family property.
Health Problems

The Chinese Foo Dog is not associated with any major Health Problems. However, due to its size, it's susceptible to develop problems with its bones and joints.
Grooming

The Chinese Foo coat needs regular maintenance. Brushes don't work that well on coats this thick, so try gently combing the coat to prevent it from becoming tangled. General cleaning of the other parts of the body is recommended. Keep their nails trimmed to make sure their paws remain healthy and they are comfortable walking. If the nails get too long, they can become ingrown and be very painful for your dog to walk on. Always check your dog's ears and be on the lookout for excessive hair, dirt, too much wax build up. If their ears are dirty, you will need to clean them very gently and carefully with a gauzecovered finger. Avoid Q-tips as you can cause damage to their eardrums. Check for ticks and fleas in the summer, and dry coats in the winter. Always make sure they don't have hot spots in the summer from getting too wet and not drying off properly.

Check their eyes to see if they are running and make sure they're bright and alive. Clean any eye debris away from the corners of their eyes.
Exercise

The Chinese Foo's-particularly the larger sizes - need a lot of high-energy exercise. The smaller ones are usually content to be pillows on your couch, but still need to be given a work out. All puppies and many older dogs have unlimited energy, and that energy needs to be funneled towards constructive ends by exercising vigorously and lots of play time. As your Chinese Foo matures, appropriate exercise is still needed, but their energy level is not quite as high. Although with this breed, they tend to maintain a high energy level well into later life especially with good care and nutrition. Jogging, walking and running or playing in your yard with your Chinese Foo is something that would give them a good workout. A good game of Frisbee, hide and seek, fetch the tug rope or ball works too. If they happen to get bang out of chasing the lawnmower as you cut grass, you can turn that into play time as well.
Training

The Chinese Foo dog needs firm control and MUST be properly trained. Their formal obedience training needs to include a proper socializing program. These dogs are quick to learn and highly intelligent, so make sure when you train to train the right way first, or they will pick up bad habits really quickly. The Foo is an independent thinker, meaning you may get compliance some of the time, but not always obedience. This improves with age and training. You may want to consider crate training for your Chinese Foo. Dogs are den animals and the crate will become his den/safe spot. This has lots of benefits for you and for him. It helps you with house training, with solving problems like chewing, and if you travel, the crate is a home away from home (and prevents property damage). Bottom line is, it also is a place where your dog can go to relax when he wants some peace. Make sure the crate is large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lie down in-in comfort, not all scrunched up. When they're smaller, make sure the crate is the right size, as you do not want them using half the crate as a potty spot and the other half to sleep in. If the crate is too big, block off a portion of it. You don't want your Chinese Foo to be biting- taking your hand in his mouth and nipping. To stop this, yell Ouch in a very loud and annoyed voice. This tells your Foo it hurt and you are not happy. Once your Foo lets go of your hand, then just ignore him for a couple of minutes.

Chinese Shar-Peis

Life Span:7 -12 years. However, they rarely live over the age of 10. Litter Size:4 and 6 puppies. Group:Southern Non-Sporting

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The colors of the Chinese Shar-Pei are cream, fawn, red, and black.

Hair Length:Short Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:18-20 inches Male Weight:40-55 pounds Female Height:18-20 inches Female Weight:40-55 pounds Living Area:The Shar-Pei is a moderately active indoor dog so some space indoors is required. They will however adjust to an apartment style environment if they are taken outdoors to exercise enough. They are happier and more content indoors when they have received enough exercise outdoors. Because of their large padded head, they are very sensitive to the heat and therefore water and shade is necessary for them when being taken outdoors to exercise.
Description

The Chinese Shar-Pei is a medium size dog with an alert and dignified stature. They are considered to be compact and square in profile. Their head is slightly larger than proportional for the body, but not excessively. They have a hippopotamus like muzzle and a very high set tail. The tail is so high set that it is said to display an uptilted anus. These features give the dog its unique appearance. The tail is one of the most characteristic features of the Shar-Pei. It should be thick and round at the base and then taper to a fine point. It should curl over to either side of the back. They are covered in loose skin which gives the appearance of wrinkles all over the body. However, the wrinkly appearance can lessen as the dog ages and then the loose skin may only appear on the head, neck, and withers. This breed is of medium length with muscular and well set sloping shoulders. They display a broad and deep chest with the brisket extending to the elbow and then rising slightly under the

loin. The hindquarters are very muscular and the hocks should be short and perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. It is important that the hind dewclaws are removed. The gait of the Chinese Shar-Pei is characteristic of a trot. When the dog moves at a more vigorous speed, it is noticed that the feet seem to converge into a center line. The Shar-Pei has good forward reach and a strong drive from the hindquarters.
Coat Description

There is three different coat types found in this breed. There is the horse-coat, brush-coat, and the rare bear-coat. The bear-coat is not recognized under the American Kennel Club. The brushcoat can have a coat that is not to exceed 1" anywhere on the body. If over 1" in length, the dog's coat is classified as a bear-coat. The horse-coat has a coat that is stiff and stands straight off of the body. The difference between the brush-coat and horse-coat is in the tail. The appearance of a "snake-tail" is a horse-coat. The appearance of a "brush tail" is a brush-coat. The horse-coat is quite unusual. It is rough to the touch, quite prickly, and off-standing. The brush-coat is longer and has a smoother feel to it.
History

The Chinese Shar-Pei can be traced back to the province of Kwung Tung. It has existed in the southern provinces of China for centuries. They were typically the dogs of peasants. They helped the peasants with herding cattle, guarding the family and the home, and are qualified hunters of mainly wild pigs. Shar-Pei translated actually means "sand skin" or "shark skin." This rough and prickly coat was excellent in the dog fighting pits because it allowed the dogs to wiggle out of their opponent's grasp. In China they are referred to as fighting dogs and in Canada and the United States are referred to as guard dogs. They both reflect the same idea that these dogs were used for protection. There is a theory that the Shar-Pei shares a common origin with the Chow Chow, because of the blue black mouths and tongues, the Great Pyrenees because of the double dewclaws, and the Tibetan Mastiff. Consistent with this, it is speculated that the first Shar-Pei actually appeared as a mutation. After the establishment of the People's Republic of China as a communist nation the dog population was virtually wiped out. Thanks to Matgo Law and his dedication to the breed, a small number of Shar-Pei's were brought over to the United States in the 1960's and 1970's.
Temperament

The Chinese Shar-Pei can be described as highly intelligent, independent, dignified, and snobbish. They can be standoffish with strangers but will remain devoted and dedicated to their family. Due to their history as herders and guard dogs, they are very alert and have a calm and confident stature. Despite its scowling and frowning expression, the dog is very easy going and calm.

The Shar-Pei is considered to be an excellent family dog. It is devoted to its family and owners and makes an excellent watch dog. Their standoffishness will minimize with regular visitors. They generally do well with children and other pets when they are socialized around them as a very young puppy. Although they are standoffish around strangers they are not considered to be unfriendly. The Shar-Pei has an extremely dominant and independent nature and therefore it is pertinent that they have a handler who can show the dog who is boss. If the handler is uncertain or wavers in their commands and training, the Shar-Pei will take over as boss and become very dominant. It is suggested that Shar-Peis are for experienced dog owners. They will refuse commands from family members who have not established a level of dominance with them. The Shar-Pei has a high dislike of water. They will avoid water for baths, but have been known to enter ponds, oceans, lakes, rivers, etc. of their own accord. Consequently, the Shar-Pei should be trained from an early age to accept being bathed. However, they are excellent house pets because they are considered to be extremely clean. In fact, the Shar-Pei will basically house break itself. This will make having a puppy in the home a little easier. Despite their desire for cleanliness, they do shed some and tend to slobber and drool especially when in pain. It is important for this breed to be socialized around other dogs from a very young age. They have a history of being involved in the dog fight pits and therefore can be aggressive towards other dogs. It is important when buying a Shar-Pei to be very cautious of their breeding lines. This dog was carelessly over-bred during the 1980's and therefore the personality and health of the dog depends on the genetics of the dog. When looking into the history of the breeding lines, it can usually be determined if that line of dogs is aggressive or not towards other dogs.
Health Problems Entropion: The eyelid will roll inwards towards the eye and cause irritation of the cornea. Surgical repair is required. Hypothyroidism: Inadequate hormone levels force the body to function at a lower metabolic level. This causes extreme weight gain even on a regular Diet, skin irritation problems, and a sluggish disposition. Swollen Hock Syndrome: This causes swelling of the hock joint, reluctance to move, abdominal pain, Vomiting, Diarrhea, and sometimes a painful swelling of the muzzle.

Cancer: There are several forms of cancer that have a high incidence rate and currently research is being done to pinpoint which are most prevalent. Grooming

The grooming level of the Chinese Shar-Pei is considered to be low or minimal. They do need to be brushed regularly to remove dead hair and then brushed daily during shedding season to

reduce the amount of shedding. Despite the low maintenance of the Shar-Pei there are some special considerations. Special attention needs to be given to the ears of the Shar-Pei. It is essential that you never wash the Shar-Pei's head. Getting water in the ears of the Shar-Pei can cause serious problems for them that do not appear in other breeds. They have very tiny ear canals and water in the ears can cause serious ear infections. Some tend to collect more dirt and wax than others and this should be cleaned our prior to bathing. A waterless dog shampoo can be used on the head and then wiped with a damp cloth. An ear drying solution can be used after the bath just incase some water did get into the ears. Bathing should be done about once a month. During the bath, it may be useful to use a rubber brush to get rid of some of the shed. A specialty dog shampoo should be used because human shampoos and liquid soap can cause skin irritation. This is exceptionally important with this dog because skin irritation and skin problems are prevalent. Take extra care to make sure all the soap residue has been rinsed and make sure that special attention is given to in between all the folds in the skin. Drying after the bath is essential for this dog as well. Again it is important to make sure that the skin between all the folds is given extra attention and dried thoroughly. The Shar-Pei should be dried with a drier on moderate heat. A light amount of baby powder or specialty grooming powder can be used for in the folds to ensure that the dampness is gone to prevent skin irritation. Professional grooming may be recommended for the bathing process because of the Shar-Pei's hatred for the water. It may be difficult for the owner to bathe them at home.
Exercise

The Shar-Pei does have a considerable need for exercise. It is necessary for this breed to get outside and have activity because they will be more peaceful and content indoors when they have had enough outdoor activity. However, the Shar-Pei because of its origin as a fighting dog, does need to always be kept on a leash to avoid confrontation and fighting with other dogs. Because of their padded head they are very sensitive to heat. It is important for Shar-Pei to have access to water and shade when it is outdoors. Over exercise should be avoided when it is really hot outside. The Shar-Pei is a dog that also hates the water and they have very sensitive ear canals and therefore should not get water in their ears. This dog is not meant to be a dog for the water or for playing fetch or swimming with the family at the lake. They are capable of handling cold weather much better than warm weather. This makes them excellent dogs for moderate to cooler climates.
Training

Training for the Shar-Pei is very important from a young age. It is very important that they be socialized at an early age. They can be quite aggressive towards other dogs and therefore should get used to being around other animals from a young age to reduce this. They are typically playful with children but again will do better if they are socialized around children from a young age. Socialization is also important because the Shar-Pei is known to get attached to only one

person. They will protect and defend this person if they feel there is a threat. They will adjust to being a family dog and be loyal to the whole family. Socialization can help to minimize their aggressive nature. If not socialized correctly, they can be aggressive towards other dogs and their standoffishness around strangers can turn into shyness or sometimes aggression. The Shar-Pei can have a very dominant and stubborn nature and therefore training can be quite difficult. It is important for the handler to have a strong, direct, and consistent training. The SharPei needs to have a handler who can be the "Top Dog" so to speak. If the handler is soft, inconsistent, or wavering in their commands and training, the Shar-Pei will take over and become the dominant one in the relationship. Therefore, firm handling is the best method for this dog. However, they can be defiant in a family setting because they may only respond to commands from one person. It is important that if the dog is in a family setting that the dog gets trained to respond to all members of the family in the same way. It can be frustrating for the family if the dog responds to one family member and then acts dominantly towards others. Despite the firm handling that is necessary, there is one thing that the Shar-Pei does not need extensive training on. The Shar-Pei is known to house break itself. So, that makes life a little easier for the owner when the dog is a puppy and being integrated into the home.

Chow Chows
Life Span:12 to 15 wonderful years with their Chow. Litter Size: 5 pups per litter. Group:The Chow is categorized in the Northern and Non-Sporting groups. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:While the Chow Chow is known to come in solid red, cinnamon and cream, black or blue, it can also be found in tan, gray and sometimes even white. Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:18-22 inches or 46-56 cm Male Weight:45-70 pounds or 20-32 kg Female Height:18-22 inches or 46-56 cm Female Weight:45-70 pounds or 20-32 kg

Living Area:The Chow is said to do well in apartment sized living spaces with sufficient exercise but will likely do much better with a small yard in which to patrol his or her perimeter. Chows should not be left in direct sunlight in the heat of summer. They will need an area of extensive shade and plenty of cool water.
Description

Standing at a foot and a half or more at the shoulder, the Chow Chow is commonly recognized for the massive amount of fur that seems to encase its body and its distinctive blue black tongue. The Chow can come in light or dark shades of red, black or tan and is also occasionally found in white. Chows also come in what is called a smooth coat. This coat is less dense than the rough coat and comes in the same aforementioned colors. The thick ruff behind the head of the Chow is often said to resemble that of a lion's mane. The head of a Chow is rather broad with perked, rounded ears and a wide rounded muzzle. The eyes are deep-set in a heavy brow that always conveys an expression of deep thought. The Chow is also recognized for its hind legs that are nearly straight, giving it a unique and distinguishing walk. At anywhere from 45 to 75 pounds, this type of dog is markedly stocky. Originally born and bred in the high steppe areas of freezing Siberia, Mongolia and Northern China, the dog is able to withstand tremendously cold weather conditions. While a good choice for companionship, the Chow is sometimes said to exhibit the autonomous nature of a cat. Completely loyal to members of their own family, they can be somewhat cautious of strangers and other unknown animals. Although this is what made them quite valuable as temple guard dogs back in the day, present day settings oblige owners to socialize their Chow from an early age. While some exhibit a willingness to please, Chows are more known for doing their own thing. This makes them a rather easy breed to care for, especially for those who do not want or need a demanding dog.
Coat Description

Though mostly recognized for their rough coat that makes them resemble miniature bears or lions, the Chow can also come in a smooth coat. Chow puppies will move into an adult coat over the course of several months as they mature. The coat consists of soft dual layers meant for protecting the Chow's body from extreme cold weather conditions. This type of coat has a tendency to mat rather easily if not properly cared for.
History

Originating in the frigid northern steppes of Mongolia, Siberia, and China, the Chow is noted to be one of the oldest species of dog still around. The dog was bred for pulling sleds, hunting, guarding temples and in some cases, they were used for meat and fur in resource barren regions. While there is some debate as to how the breed ended up with the name Chow Chow, their original name is known as Songshi Quan, translated quite literally to 'puffy lion dog'. Their DNA shows an ancient line that indicates the breed to be one of the first to become domesticated from wild wolves. They are also believed to be relatives of the Spitz, Akita and Shar Pei breeds.

The Chow breed later made its way across the ocean in the cargo holds of merchants in the spice trade. There is also much in the way of legend as to how the breed got its blue tongue. Accordingly, as the gods painted the sky blue and drops of paint were spilled, a faithful Chow Chow followed close behind licking up the drops. The dog breed has consistently been a favorite with many distinguished personalities, including well known world leaders.
Temperament

The temperament of the Chow is one that seems to be full of inconsistencies. While they can at times be quite aloof, they are also a great family pet who loves children. In a single 60 second period, they can go from being joyful and eager to please to stubborn and utterly obstinate. Despite all this, they make for a wonderful pet and many people will keep not just one but two Chows. Owners love them so much that, upon the passing of their Chow, they will immediately go out and replace their companion with yet another. It is a breed that has a definite following in the public. Their temperament is said to extend from their days in China and Mongolia where they were not only used as working dogs but also as meat and fur since resources in the region were few. Because of this, Chows were not considered pets or given the benefit of a single owner as the attachment would make them harder to kill. This accounts for their somewhat self governing nature. They did, however, become quite useful as guard dogs for temples, aligning themselves with temple masters and aggressively rejecting all other unknown persons and animals. Over the years, breeders have successfully worked to bring forth a Chow with a family focused nature. While the Chow can be somewhat willful they are still a refined, sophisticated breed. They will take an aggressive stance when guarding their home or family but do not tend to resort to full on aggression unless pushed. In cases where they do rush to aggression, it is often found they have not been properly socialized. When directed to do or not do something, it has to make perfect sense for the Chow; otherwise, they are likely to balk at the command. These dogs are generally not the types who do tricks for the fun of it, although this is not true in all cases. The Chow can do well with other animals, as long as they are introduced and raised with them from a very early age. Unfortunately, the Chow's temperament is simply one of the most misunderstood of the canine world. It is a breed that draws his or her own needs for attention from family members and has little concern for the validation or approval of others. An owner who is like minded is likely to have the most successful relationship with the Chow breed. For those wanting to take on the ownership of a Chow, the best plan of action is early obedience classes and extensive socialization. This is a breed that needs an owner with a firm temperament of his or her own in order to keep power struggles at bay. As always, consistency will be the name of the game. This leads to a well balanced and even tempered dog who feels secure in their own environment. Dogs that have a good sense of security are well known for making the best of companion and family dogs.

Health Problems

For the most part, a Chow is a healthy breed and is no more or less susceptible to the list of common dog ailments than any other type of dog. However, there is some susceptibility to specific Health conditions due to the construction of the breed's anatomy.
hip dysplasia

Entropion - a condition in which the eyelids fold inward causing the eyelashes to rub against the cornea; this can be remedied with a simple surgery

Susceptibility to extreme heat conditions As popularity rises and falls with the Chow, unscrupulous Breeding can also result in various genetic deficiencies. Grooming

In keeping with their self assured temperament, Chows are a breed that truly like to stay clean. While there are exceptions, most very much enjoy the grooming process. While clipping the coat of a Chow can actually be damaging to the two layers of it naturally dense coat, regular weekly grooming is what keeps the breed free from mats and tangles. Regular grooming also builds a stronger bond an owner and their Chow, something that is quite necessary for this breed's temperament. It is often recommended that grooming be done twice weekly with a good stiff bristled comb or slicker brush. Some find applying a coat dressing keeps static to a minimum and also helps to thoroughly condition the coat. Because of their special thick coat, wet bathing should take place only when needed, or not more than once per month. In fact, dry shampooing is the most recommended method of upkeep for this breed. The Chow is one that has at least two periods of heavy shedding. While it may seem their heavy coat would be uncomfortable for summer, shaving the breed is highly looked down upon as it not only takes away the dogs natural defenses, it can also lead to sunburned skin. The recommended course of action is to be sure all dead hair is groomed out of the natural coat. With the Chow, it is always important to brush down to the skin. Otherwise dirt, debris and moisture can become trapped in the hair, which then kinks up causing bothersome skin problems.
Exercise

The Chow is not one that will demand an extensive amount of exercise but to ensure good health, regular outings are a wise decision. Because Chows can weigh up to 70+ pounds it is necessary to ensure they do not give way to hip dysplasia through inactivity. Regular exercise also gets

them out of their own yard or environment and maintains a high level of socialization, something this breed consistently needs. While some Chows are more tolerant of the leash than others, daily walks and romps in the park can be an ideal option. It is important to remember most Chows have a mind of their own making it essential to leave this breed on their leash at all times. While it is commonly joked that a Chow would much rather stay inside and watch TV with its owner, there are some Chows with the type of personality that love running obstacle courses and other similar trials. Events set up specifically for this purpose are often arranged by local chapters of Chow appreciation groups. These organizations can often be found online or by calling a local kennel clubs or breeders. Information for training and entry fees are often readily available.
Training

Training a Chow is a matter of great importance that requires a good amount of diligence. To be effective, training must start at a very early age, establishing the owner as the dominant or alpha in the relationship. As with all dogs, consistency is an absolute must. Understanding the temperament of the breed will be the number one thing that allows an owner to keep conflicts and power struggles to a minimum. While the Chow has great loyalty to its owner, it simply does not rely on anyone outside of itself for validation. They are self governing and autonomous breed, a trait that is the result of their extensive 3,000 year old history. For successful training, only firm consistent commands will suffice. The breed simply does not respond to begging, pleading or cajoling; nor do they respond to heavy handed, harsh or inhumane tactics. In order for the breed to fully accept a command, they must know that there is a basis for the action they are about to perform. While there are many exceptions, this is not a breed known for willfully performing tricks and stunts. Though it may seem the Chow is stubborn and inflexible, in reality it is a breed with a strong sense of self. Those looking for a type of dog that is bent on pleasing its master are not a good match for the Chow. Socialization from an early age is also a necessity for this breed. Bred throughout the centuries to be guard dogs, it is in their nature to take an aggressive stance when new situations present themselves. While they do not often carry through with aggression, socialization can help them realize not every situation needs the same kneejerk reaction. Chows can be just as loving as any other type of dog.

Clumber Spaniels
Life Span:11-13 years of age, Litter Size:2 to 8, with an average of 5 puppies. Group:The Clumber Spaniel places 122 in the AKC ranking, in the family of Gundog and Spaniel, belonging to the Sporting Group of hunters. Developed as hunting and bird dogs, using

energetic hunting abilities in the water and field settings, almost all sporting dogs require regular exercise. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC Color:The color of the Clumber Spaniel is pure white with lemon or orange markings, which improves the Clumber's location out in the field when working, as white against the brush and bramble colors improve the dog's visibility to hunters. Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:19 to 20 inches at the withers Male Weight:70 and 85 pounds Female Height:17 to 19 inches at the withers. Female Weight:55 to 70 pounds Living Area:The Clumber Spaniel make excellent house pets as they are easy going and sedate, very affectionate, and can exist on moderate amounts of exercise, even though it has been known to be high-energy, depending on the owner. They love the outdoors and participate in obedience and tracking, and hunting out in the fields. As they grow very rapidly, the Clumbers are usually very active as young pups into young adulthood. Apartments are acceptable for this breed as long as they are exercised with swimming, walking, playing fetch, catching balls, and hunting. As they get older, not as much energy is projected so less exercise is needed, allowing for smaller homes or apartments. These dogs do best living with older individuals or those who do not have a high-activity lifestyle.
Description

Considered the most gentle of all the aristocratic dog breeds, this very lovable and highly intelligent Clumber Spaniel is physically a very sound and sturdy dog, with the most perspective intelligent personality of any breed available in the sporting group. Very much a family dog, this dog adores children and all family members, and is very protective toward them along with being a good mother to their own puppies. As puppies themselves, they love to play ball and fetch, from the moment they can stagger around on their pudgy little legs and put things in their mouth-they and children kind of go hand-in-hand. A very gentle dog, this long and low-to-the-ground heavy dog cannot handle any harsh criticism, or physical abuse. If treated as such, the dog will simply go down emotionally and mentally,

refusing to budge, which gives the Clumber a "dumb attitude" appearance which causes many people to consider this dog an unintelligent breed and not worthy of anything--which is quite the opposite of what the breed actually is. Anyone who has ever had a Clumber Spaniel will stay with the breed, even as uncommon as the breed is, as there are no other breeds with this level of devotion or kindness to their owner and his family until their dying day.
Coat Description

The coat of the Clumber Spaniel is very thick, silky, with a very dense undercoat. Very soft to the touch, the Clumber's hair is straight and weather resistant, which combined with its low body feature and heavy weight allows it to move through the field without tearing of the skin or damage to the body.
History

The legend of the Clumber Spaniel says that its ancestors were beaters and retrievers, owned by the French Duc de Noailles, who during the French Revolution sent quite a number of his dogs to the Duke of Newcastle in England to ensure their safety. This may be the reason the history of the dog is split between the two countries, both laying claim to its early development. Where today this avuncular dog methodically tracks and retrieves fallen leaves and hidden insects, at one time it worked as a team to very carefully, step by step, beat game toward the hunters waiting at the end of the field. But regardless, the development of the Clumber Spaniel is wide and varied with its parent stock disappearing into thin air, with the only written words going back to the last half of the 18th century. The Clumber Spaniel in theory to come from a blend of the Basset Hound with an early European spaniel, the now extinct Alpine Spaniel. England states their name comes form Clumber Park in Nottinghanshire. Unequaled to any dog other than the Bloodhound, this aristocratic breed has been kept pure from any outside sources of plebian blood for several generations. With a noble and ancient lineage that goes back such a long way, they popularity of the Clumbers around the early 1900s was due to the excellent record these dogs had at field trials. In the United States by 1995, over 500 Clumbers have placed with either an AKC Championship title before their name, or AKC Obedience, Tracking, and Hunting titles after their name. Regardless which country, Britain or France, laid claim to the original development of the Clumber, their breed was totally confined to the nobleman, not being allowed into any outside hands until the mid-nineteenth century. But during WWI, any breeding operation of this breed was stopped entirely, which caused their numbers to sink to a record low with only a few breeding stock remaining. But in 1925, King George V re-developed the Sandringham Clumbers, with the Royal Kennel producing a line of Clumbers that were working dogs in the field, with durable and outstanding quality showmanship in the dog rings. Rated highly, the King's Clumbers were used in a pack to work the vast rhododendron field around the Sandringham Estate. After the war, breeding stopped entirely until a period in time when many prominent English

kennels appeared--Snowholme, Cuerden, Mason, Mason, Anchorfield, Fatpastures, Oldholbans, Alansmere, Sefton, and Raycroft. The breed was brought over to the United States as early as 1844 by Lt. Venables of the British regiment, stationed in Halifax, Nova Scotia, introducing the dog to his fellow officers. Recognized as one of the oldest breeds in America, one of the first ten breeds recognized by the AKC when their organization began in 1884, it really did not enter into the mainstream until the past ten years or so.
Temperament

The devoted Clumber Spaniel is a very heavy dog that refuses to acknowledge that it is not a small lap dog, and cannot just lightly jump into anyone's lap. Desiring to lie as close to its owner as possible to touch, it will lie on your feet or lap (if it can!), and if desperate enough, will lean against the legs--anything that will bring it in close physical proximity to its owner. To develop this close relationship, it is a good idea to exercise the family Clumber by walking or playing fetch in order to keep the weight down, which is a really problem with this breed in addition to constant shedding. Enough exercise and regular daily to weekly brushing and combing will work wonders with this small gentle giant with the big heart. Known as a stubborn breed, usually it refers to the fact the Clumber Spaniel is not getting enough physical or mental stimulation. Not an easy dog to work with, they become bored very easy. It is said by Clumber trainers that the owner needs to show them with firm consistency, they mean what they say--the owner is "alpha" and not the dog. Respect training is a mandatory requirement for individuals who are in the process of getting a Clumber. The need to learn to respect their owner, and know the rules of the home for visitors and other pets. Otherwise if allowed to reign free--like most breeds, but especially this breed, will believe they are higher in the "pack order" of the home. The pack order is a ladder of hierarchy regarding "who is boss." Dogs are very sociable animals who enjoy having other sociable animals or humans around them in a group (family) or pack of animals. As a hunting dog, this breed is by tendency to have the keenest of noses with the most remarkable massive build, and powers of endurance. With an ancient lineage proudly behind them, they are very deserving of the hunting reputation as a very capable hunting assistant to their owner. Easily controlled with the proper training, the Clumber Spaniel takes naturally to the water for retrieving and "fetching," and are good at retrieving anywhere in the field.
Health Problems

The two major Health issues for the Clumber Spaniel is:
CHD ( Canine hip dysplasia )

panosteitis (juvenile lameness)

 Entropion. Minor issues are:

intervertebral disc problems cataracts dry eyes ectropion with suggested testing in the hips and eyes for future reference. CHD refers to canine hip dysplasia, and is considered a skeletal abnormal development. The head of the femur does not fit snugly into the pelvic socket, requiring hip radiograph as a special diagnostics. Entropion refers to inversion of the eyelids, where the eyelids roll inwards enough to irritate the eye. Lamb and rice diets are usually the prime food for this dog as it gains weight easily, and is prone to flea and skin Allergies. Not health issues--but they do drool, wheeze, and snore--which is easily overlooked by their owners as they are so sweet, loyal, and lovable. Grooming

Clumber Spaniels require slightly more than a moderate amount of grooming as they are a spaniel, so daily grooming is good for both the dog and owner as it allows time to check for ticks, cuts, and skin situations. Combing through the Clumber's hair is best on a daily basis or at least two to three times a week, paying special attention to the area behind the ears--this is "knot haven" for this family of dog. When doing so, make sure no dirt is visible in the ear canal. If so, use ear wipes or ear cleaning solutions to clean the are out, in order to get a jump on any ear condition that may be developing. Grooming the body hair can be done by either a slicker or pin head brush, with extra focus on the leg feather and belly, as this area becomes more matted and dirty than any other area. Balled up hair is caught under the armpits, forming matts which are painful to the dog and can irritate the skin or pull skin away. Removing the matts with fingertips is better than with scissors, as some matts are too close to the skin. Use conditioner if the knot or matt refuses to come loose. Another option if the Clumber is a pet is to clip the air off, but usually the clipped hair does not grow back the same way as before the clipping occurred. The advantages are it is easy to maintain, is clean, and cool in the hot months. Many owners want to keep the longer-haired look of the Clumber Spaniel, but want to remove the dead hair which is shedding all over the house. A defelting tool called the "Mars Coat King" is a good tool to use, which removed dead undercoat and loose hairs without hurting the dog.

Metal combs with large and wide teeth are also perfect for this grooming job, with the stripping knife used for fine hair on the legs.
Exercise

If the Clumber Spaniel is purchased as a hunting dog, and is hunted regularly through swimming or retrieving in the field, this is enough exercise for all ages of the breed. If the dog is purchased as a pet, then exercising is very important as so many owners vary on their lifestyle. The Clumber loves to swim, as it was trained for hunting, in order to go after birds in the water; walking is also an excellent exercise as the breed was originally trained for hunting in the field, which sometimes lasted for long periods of time. But this dog's favorite past-time is playing ball and fetching, which can be done in the back yard or in the park.
Training

The Clumber Spaniel has a reputation for "silence in the field" due to the fact it worked in a pack beating the brush silently to quietly force the birds toward the hunter, not causing or forcing the birds to fly. This same personality is seen today, even though the Clumber is a rare breed and hard to come by. Not used in the field as much as it is a family pet or companion today, this breed needs proper training to ensure its quality within the home. This breed is not good for kennel life, preferring human companionship at all times. Any untrained dog in the world today, with the pace of society at high speed, is a liability to ensure the dog's own safety. No dog should be left untrained, accomplished either professionally or by the owner. Training a Clumber is not as difficult as rumor has it, due to the fact it is loyal and has a strong desire to please, with a very sweet and gentle temperament. As this breed thrives on attention, the respond well to training methods that use positive reinforcement and lots of praise. But an important requirement of the Clumber Spaniel to achieve successful training results is consistency and patience, beginning early training. At this time, the young puppies when first brought home should be taught to walk on a loose lead, to come when called, and to say when commanded, using lots of praise and encouragement when "they do good." Harsh training or verbal/physical abuse cannot be used with this breed, or any other breed of dog. But this dog in particular will refuse to listen, become bull-headed and stubborn, almost appearing as an unintelligent "dult" to the owner-- its response to such treatment is to totally shut down. Intelligent as they are, this is their way to handle something not in their chemistry to respond to. The more vicious an owner becomes, the more the dog will shut down. If the Clumber Spaniel is not the breed of choice for kindness and decency, then the dog should be placed in a home that can offer it a better way of life. A historical breed with a high-quality aristocratic line, the Clumber does not deserve anything other than love, kindness, decency, and respect for what it was bred for.

Cocker Spaniels
Life Span:12-15 years

Litter Size:2-7 puppies with an average of 5 per litter Group:Gun Dog, AKC Sporting Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black and tan, black, any solid color other than black (ASCOB), parti-colored (white and any other solid color), tan points with the tan less than 10% of the total body. Hair Length:Long, Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:14-16 inches (36-38 cm) Male Weight:15-30 pounds (7-14 kg) Female Height:14-16 inches (36-38 cm) Female Weight:15-30 pounds (7-14 kg) Living Area:The Cocker Spaniel is a very adaptable dog that can do well in a smaller space such as an apartment but can also do well in the country. A fenced yard is important for this breed, as they do tend to roam.

Description

The Cocker Spaniel is a smaller sized spaniel that has wonderful temperament and boundless energy. They are great dogs for families as well as single people and really love being with humans, although they can tolerate moderate lengths of time alone if they are properly exercised and attended to when the family is home. The Cocker Spaniel has a beautiful, silky medium long coat that is relatively easy to care for and maintain, even if the dog is outside. The head of the Cocker Spaniel is dome shaped between the long, pendulous and well feathered ears. The eyes are very round and positioned towards the center of the muzzle, dark and very soft looking while still giving a twinkle of merriment and interest in their surroundings. The muzzle has a defined stop at the eyes then is rather square and broad in appearance down to the nose. The nose is large and noticeable with black coloration on dark coated dogs and a more brown color on the lighter coat colors. The upper lips are relatively long and hang down beyond the level of the lower jaw but are tight to the mouth. The neck is short and very erect from the shoulders, which are muscular and well developed. The legs tend to be rather short and well feathered, making them appear slightly heavier than they really are.

The body of the Cocker Spaniel has a topline that slopes slightly down from the shoulders to the hips, giving a "ready" appearance when the dog is standing up. The hind legs are strong and relatively straight and the tail is traditionally docked to about 2/5 of its natural length. In many areas tail docking is no longer allowed so the tail may be left natural. The Cocker Spaniel has traditionally been used as a gun dog as well as a household pet, and will quickly adjust to whatever is asked of it. They are surprisingly athletic for their smaller size and are natural retrievers.
Coat Description

The coat of the Cocker Spaniel is varied in length with the hair on the head short and sleek and the hair on the ears, neck and chest being moderately long and well feathered. The rest of the body including the legs is well feathered with a silky, fine and flat hair that is easy to care for and very silky to the touch. Hair that is very curly or woolly or cottony in texture is considered a fault. For show purposes the coat can be trimmed to enhance the natural lines of the dog but should not be clipped. For everyday practical purposes may Cocker Spaniel owners completely clip their dogs.
History

The American Cocker Spaniel was developed by very selective breeding of the English Cocker Spaniel, although the two now look distinctly different. The American Cocker Spaniel is more of a companion dog and less likely to be used for hunting than the original English Cocker Spaniel. Through selective breeding in the United States the Cocker Spaniel has become smaller and showier than the original hunting breed. The conformation has also changed to a more elegant and stylish dog from the hardy and practical spaniel that is more typical of the English lines. The American Cocker Spaniel was never used as extensively as a gun and hunting dog in the United States although it is excellent in hunting upland game birds such as pheasants, quail and partridges.The Cocker Spaniel become increasingly popular and was one of the most popular breeds of dogs according to the American Kennel club in the 1940's. At this time the breed was almost exclusively used as a companion dog, much as it now is. Currently the Cocker Spaniel is considered the fifteenth most popular dog breed in the United States and continues to be a favorite around the world.
Temperament

The Cocker Spaniel is a happy, friendly and enthusiastic dog that is great with families and children. They are more likely to wag their tail and welcome a stranger than they are to act aggressive or territorial, although some Cocker Spaniels are good watchdogs and will bark when someone approaches. They are not a dominant breed of dog and are typically very willing and obedient and have an average ability to learn.The Cocker Spaniel is an excellent companion dog and is rarely dog aggressive especially if socialized properly. The Cocker Spaniel is not a timid dog; rather they are just easy going and willing to accept other dogs into their space. Cockers that have not been socialized may have a tendency to hid or run when they feel threatened, but with opportunity to go new places and meet new people and animals this problem is quickly

overcome. The Cocker Spaniel is typically very good with cats and other pets however socialization will help this process. Many Cocker Spaniels that are raised with cats are very affectionate with the cat, allowing the cat to sleep in the same bed and even share toys. The Cocker Spaniel loves to be active and does best with a family where there is moderate to high activity, especially when the dog is young. They seem to enjoy interacting with children and are tolerant of even very young kids. The Cocker Spaniel can be left alone for short to moderate periods of time but do not do well when left alone for long periods. They do need human contact and interaction to be happy and content. Without enough attention they may be prone to habits such as chewing and barking, both which can become problematic.
Health Problems

With the popularity of Cocker Spaniel as a pet and gun dog there has been a significant amount of backyard Breeding that has lead to some serious Health conditions in many Cockers that are not purchased from reputable breeders. Even within some of the purebred lines there are some minor health issue, but these are seen in many breeds of dogs. Some of the more serious health concerns are: IMHA ( Immune Mediated Hemolytic Anemia )-the immune system attacks the blood cells, resulting in serious blood loss from the body in the urine and typically death if not treated immediately. Eyes-glaucoma, Cataracts, Entropion and ectropion, Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) resulting in eventual blindness. Skin-allergies, seborrhea, lip fold pyoderma all which can lead to irritations and skin infections as the dog scratches and rubs the area. Otitis externa-ear infections, common in any dog with a folded ear. Phosphofructokinase deficiency-destroys red blood cells and leads to anemia and muscle degeneration and pain in movement. Cardiomyopathy-heart conditions such as disease or muscle development problems.
Grooming

The Cocker Spaniel requires regular care and ideally daily or every other day brushing to stay in top shape. Their long, silky coat is prone to tangling and matting but is easy to maintain with a quick five minute grooming routine each day. These dogs love the attention so grooming really is simple and easy. If the dog is being used for hunting or in the summer seasons many people clip the Cocker Spaniel in a sport or puppy cut for easy care. The Cocker Spaniel is one breed that can tolerate frequent bathing and seems to really enjoy the whole process. Use only good quality dog hair products to avoid allergies and skin irritations.

To groom the Cocker Spaniel start with a pin brush or wide toothed grooming comb and begin at either the neck or the rump area. Groom only in the direction of hair growth never up or forward. Try to section the hair and thoroughly groom each section before moving on to the next. Once all the long hair on the body and legs has been groomed finish with a slicker brush to get out any fine tangles. In rare cases it may be necessary to clip out a particular tangle, but try to do this as infrequently as possible to keep the coat looking even. The head and ears should be groomed with a soft bristle brush and with great care to avoid causing the dog any discomfort. The eyes and ears of the Cocker Spaniel will need special care. The eyes should be carefully cleaned with a water dampened cotton cloth. Do not use soap or any other products unless approved by your vet. Tearing is commonly a sign of an eye problem such as entropion or ectropion (rolling in or drooping of the lower eyelid) that causes eye irritations leading to excessive tearing. Removing any debris from the eye will help fight any infections. The eyes should be checked for any sign of wax build up or foul smelling discharge that can indicate an ear infection. Always take care when cleaning the ear and ever clean past the outer ear. The vet can flush out the ear if required. Be sure to check the toenails and clip or trim when necessary and brush the teeth using dog tooth products on an every other day basis for good dental health.
Exercise

The Cocker Spaniel is, by nature, a very active dog, especially when they are young. As they mature the need for long, sustained exercise is much less, but they still enjoy a brisk walk or a run through the park on a daily basis. The wonderful adaptability of the Cocker Spaniel means that they can adjust to various levels of exercise and although they are an active dog, can tolerate periods of inactivity without becoming hyper and destructive in the house, as long as the inactivity is not prolonged. One of the best ways to exercise a Cocker Spaniel is to simply spend time playing with these lovable dogs. They are usually natural retrievers and will spend hours either inside or out retrieving balls, sticks and Frisbees. Remember that it is important to avoid encouraging the Cocker Spaniel to jump as this can lead to joint problems as the dog ages. Ensure that the objects you are tossing are either close to the ground or are on the ground rather than having the dog jump up to try to catch them. Cocker Spaniels are also great at obedience and agility type classes, although they will need lots of practice to understand what you are requesting. Field lines of Cocker Spaniels that are actively used as hunting and gun dogs are typically more athletic than the show lines and will need additional exercise time. As with all breeds of dogs leaving the dog to its own devices for exercise is not usually productive as the dog will likely find a cool spot in the shade and take a nap. Often the best way to keep a Cocker Spaniel exercised in a busy family is to involve the dog in day to day activities of the family, or to get a companion dog that will encourage play and

exercise. Two dogs will naturally keep each other busy as well as decrease the likelihood of problematic boredom behaviors beginning especially if they are alone during the day.
Training

Training the Cocker Spaniel should begin at the earliest possible age, especially in regards to socialization. A very friendly and affectionate breed, the Cocker Spaniel can become shy or nervous around new people if it doesn't become accustom to new people and places. Typically a Cocker Spaniel will have no trouble interacting with new dogs or other pets such as cats or rabbits or even livestock. They have little prey instinct although, like any dog, are more than willing to chase other animals just for the fun of it. The Cocker Spaniel is a very willing learner and truly wants to please the owner. Unlike some of the hunting breeds they do not have a strong streak of independence and are generally very compliant. Housetraining may be a problem for this breed and crate training is recommended to help with the process. They are very sensitive to the tone of voice used by the owner so it is very important never to raise your voice or use overly harsh tones when correcting the Cocker Spaniel. Crate training helps alleviate the need to try to correct the dog, as most experts agree that punishment is the least effective housetraining method for any breed. The Cocker Spaniel does best when trained basic commands with lots of rehearsal and practice. They do need time to learn the basics and do best when not overwhelmed with a lot of different commands all at the same time. Start with come and sit, move on to lie down and stay, then on to the more advanced levels of commands. Barking may be a problem so start early in encouraging the Cocker Spaniel to bark once or twice and then stop, don't let them get into the habit of lots of barking. Lead and collar training is important for this breed at an early age. They are generally very easy to train to heel, and a puppy obedience class can assist with all training requirements plus with socialization.

Collies
Life Span:14-16 years. Litter Size:6 Group:FCI Classification: Group-Sheepdogs and Cattle dogs. AKI Classification: As a Herding Group. Utilisation: As a Sheepdog. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

Color:Both Rough and Smooth Collies are available in four standard colours, which are: sable and white, tri colour (which is mix of white, black and tan), blue merle and white. Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:24-26 inches i.e. 61-66 cm Male Weight:60-75 pounds i.e. 27-34 kg. Female Height:22-24 inches i.e. 56-61 cm. Female Weight:50-65 pounds i.e. 23-29 kg. Living Area:Generally Collies are very active and energetic outdoors. However, they behave extremely inactive and lethargic indoors. They can live comfortably in an apartment also if they are properly exercised. They are at their best in an average sized area. Collies are very sensitive to heat so this should be taken care off. Whenever the weather is hot, give them a cover and lots of fresh water. They need to be protected, especially in warm weather.
Description

Collies are medium sized dogs having a well-proportioned body. The head of collies is lean, blunted and wedge shaped which makes it appear light instead of heavy. The top of the head is flat. They have a well-formed, long, soft and round muzzle, which tapers to a black nose. The ears are in proportion to the size of their head and are 3/4 quarters ahead with the tips tilting forward. This breed has medium sized, dark, almond shaped eyes with the exception of blue merles that have blue or merle eyes. Collies have a stiff, muscular, and stout body, which is long in ratio to their height. The chest is broad and deep extending towards the elbows. They have strong back portion, which has the powerful backing of hips and thighs. The forelegs are straight and brawny with the hind legs, which are quite slender. The stifles and hocks are twisted well. They have comparatively small feet, which are nicely shaped and are closely placed together. These dogs have long tail with the bone reaching to the hock joint. The neck is very strong, clean and rigid and it makes the dog look physically powerful.
Coat Description

The rough Collies have a tight, extensive; double coat which is rough in texture. They have a rich and bountiful coat with mane around their neck and chest. Their coat needs to be taken care of very well. Brushing them regularly is required especially during the spring season when their undercoat is shed.

They also have smooth and short hairs on the face and on the front portion of their legs. Whereas, on the neck, tail, thighs and at the back portion of front legs they have long and abundant hairs. Their tail is frilly with lots of hairs. These dogs have gentle and hairy undercoat. The Smooth Collies are easy to groom in contrast to Rough Collies. Smooth Collies also have double coat. It is short, stiff, plane and dense coat, which is smooth to touch. Their undercoat is very hairy that it is generally quite difficult to see their skin. The sable colour can be a blend of various colours. It can vary from a light blonde colour to a reddish brown colour. Tri colours are mostly a mix of black, white with the tan markings over the body. However, out of all these colours, Blue Merle has been regarded as beast colour. Collies who are tri coloured are generally preffered by the people.
History

This breed originated in the highlands of Scotland where for centuries they were used as sheepdog and helped their master in herding and guarding the flock. Earlier they were barely known except in Scotland but now they are popular all over the world. It is generally believed that these dogs got their name from the work they used to do i.e. the Scottish Black faced Sheep known as Colley. Queen Victoria liked Collies very much and she kept them at Balmoral Castle in Scotland. Her fondness and love for Collies helped them in gaining recognition and made them popular all over the world. The modern type of breed basically developed in England in the late 1800s and popularly called the Scottish collie in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The Collies at that time used to be petite, had broad heads and shorter muzzles as compared to present rough and smooth collies. Collies were first presented as "Scotch Sheep-Dogs" at Birmingham (England) in a dog show in 1860s. The ancestors of the modern Collie were first exhibited as "Scotch Sheep-Dogs" in the 1860 Birmingham (England) dog show. Collies are imported to England in 1879 for the very first time. It is from here, they developed and today known to be as very lovable and wonderful breed capable to perform multiple functions in return of just good care and desired attention.
Temperament

Collies are very polite, quick, and sharp minded dogs with a sweet temperament. It is quite easy to train these dogs as they are smart and have great grasping power. They can serve as outstanding herding dogs and family pet. Due to their friendly nature, they get along with other animals very well. They are possessive, caring, and very defensive of people whom he/ she love. This breed is completely devoted to his/her master. Besides being an amazing family pet, Collies also makes a wonderful companion of children. This is a gentle, obedient pet that simply loves to play around especially with children. They like playing games such as tug of war, hide and seek.

Collies are highly sensitive dogs. If at any point of time they have done something wrong then they should not be shown rude behavior by their master. What is required at that time is, to show them what they were supposed to do and they will understand. These dogs are very social and love to be surrounded with people or with other animals. They shouldn't be left alone, as they get bored easily. Collies require proper time and attention of their master. These dogs become very happy and lively when they get proper care and attention of their master. Collies are generally very cautious of strangers. These dogs love to bark at strangers who look suspicious and can behave violently at certain situations. They are always alert of everything happening around in their environment. Sometimes, they can bark too much making the situation uncomfortable so they should be trained to bark less.
Health Problems

Though Collies are known to be a very healthy breed but they are prone to some serious and common diseases. Some of the severe kinds of problems, which collies can suffer from, are:
PRA (progressive retinal atrophy), which means a stage where the cells of the retina, starts dying at a faster rate. PRA occurs to those collies who are suffering from genetic disorders. If not treated upon then it can lead to loss of vision. Then there are diseases like:

Collie Eye Anomaly grey Collie syndrome (which is a kind of neutropenia)

Dermatomyositis Gastric torsion

Collie nose, that is why collies nose tip is very sensitive to sun. Besides all these, they can also suffer from hip dysplasia which can lead to arthritis. Grooming

The rough collies, which have hard coat, need extra attention and care as compared to smooth collies. Their coat shed mud and filth quite often so they need through cleaning and brushing weekly to keep them look good and healthy. Smooth collies are on the other hand easy to groom though they also need to be brushed and bathed. These can be brushed in the time period of one

to two weeks. Collies shed greatly almost twice a year. People who want to have Collies but don't want much grooming, they should go for Smooth Collies, which doesn't require much grooming due to their short and smooth coat.
Exercise

Collies needs frequent exercise otherwise he/she will become lazy. They should be taken to long walks daily to cheer them up.
Training

Collies are very agile and easy to train dogs. They demand proper training full of activity and challenges. These dogs need a physical workout of about 60-80 minutes per day. They don't like repetitions in method of training as they become bore easily due to which they can turn lethargic. So Collies need interesting and motivating review sessions, which can force them to utilize their energy and skill. So, if you are having a Collie or Desire to have one then you have to be very patient and friendly with proper time and attention required for Collies. And if you have children, then it can serve as an added advantage as Collies love to be in company of Children. Take very good care of your Collie who just want love in return of love.

Coton De Tulears
Life Span:14-18 years Litter Size:5 puppies per litter on average Group:FCI Companion dog Recognized By:CKC, FCI, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:White, black and white and tricolor (white with cream, gray, light brown or light lemon and black). Hair Length:Medium Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:10-12 inches (25-30 cm) Male Weight:12-15 pounds (5.5-7 kg)

Female Height:10-12 inches (25-30 cm) Female Weight:12-15 pounds (5.5-7 kg) Living Area:The Coton de Tulear does very well in a small apartment or a house. They do require regular exercise and are not considered an outside dog, they do best when inside with the family.
Description

The Coton de Tulear is most easily identified by the soft, fluffy, cottony looking coat that is typical of the breed. They are a relatively uncommon breed outside of their native homeland of Madagascar but are gaining in popularity with dog fanciers the world over. There are actually different standards for the Coton de Tulear depending on which registry is being referenced. A general description is found below. The Coton de Tulear has a rounded skull and a well defined face that is highlighted by the soft, cottony hair that frames the dark features. The muzzle is tapered and short and there is a noticeable stop between the forehead and the start of the muzzle. The eyes are dark, lively and intelligent and are framed by dark skin. The nose is also very dark, black in color and very noticeable against the white or light colored coats. The lips cover the teeth tightly and are not loose or overlapping. The lips, like the nose and skin around the eyes is black in color. The ears are moderate in length and drop or fold over approximately two and a half to three inches and then there is an additional fringing of hair on the ears that makes them appear fuller and longer than they actually are. The head is carried very high, proud and erect on the long neck, which flows nicely into the shoulders and well developed chest. The topline of the back is straight to somewhat outwardly arched, although this arch is not predominant or highly noticeable. The legs are straight, somewhat on the shorter side and well muscled for the overall size of the dog. The pads of the feet are black in color and nicely rounded and compact. The tail of the Coton de Tulear may be carried straight or slightly curved, but will always be covered with longer, cottony hair. The breed has a noticeable beard and moustache of longer hair, plus the eyes of the mature Coton de Tulear will be covered with the long hair from the forehead. In pets this may be trimmed to help with upkeep, but in show dogs the coats and faces may not be trimmed or clipped. The overall appearance of the coat should be windblown and free, not slicked or flat against the body. They should closely resemble a fluffy cotton ball that has been slightly pulled apart.
Coat Description

The Coton de Tulear is different from most breeds of dogs in that the cotton, dry textured coat is more like hair than it is like a traditional dog fur. This makes the coat appear very fluffy and light, almost tussled in appearance. The coat is moderately long and very full, with mature dogs often clipped or trimmed when not being used as show animals.

History

The Coton de Tulear is originally from Madagascar, more specifically the port of Tulear. It is believed that a dog closely resembling the Coton de Tulear was found after a shipwreck off the port city, although there is no record of the name of this ship or where it was sailing from. Many breeders believe it is more likely that the European ships sailing to this African port likely had small companion type dogs of various mixtures with them, that then were left behind as gifts or simply left behind to mate with other dogs already in the city. The result was a small, athletic and uniquely coated dog that came to be known as the "Royal dog of Madagascar". They were then brought back to Europe and reintroduced, giving rise to the debate as to whether they are originally a European breed rather than an African breed of dog. Regardless they are a relatively rare breed of dog that is slowly but surely becoming more popular around the world. The Federation Cynologique Internationale or FCI accepted the breed in 1971 and has since moved to change some of the standards used by the other breeding associations and kennel clubs. They have moved to a more Maltese looking breed standard that is not accepted or recognized by other associations.
Temperament

The Coton de Tulear has a wonderful, lively and intelligent personality that makes them ideal for any type of home or family situation. They are a great dog to interact with children or the elderly and can adjust to the amount of exercise that the home can provide. They are also very easy to train, very willing to please, and enjoy being with their families as much as possible. Not a toy dog, the Coton de Tulear, despite its fluffy and somewhat toy like appearance is a very sturdy small breed that loves to play, fetch and romp around with the family. The Coton de Tulear is an excellent companion dog for either smaller or larger breeds. When properly socialized the Coton de Tulear will accept other dogs into their area without being overly protective or dog aggressive. Of course intact males are more likely to be problematic with aggression especially in the presence of females that are in heat. Neutered males and spayed females are typically the calmest of the breed when interacting with other dogs. They are also excellent with non-canine pets and tend to interact very well with cats and other household pets. The Coton de Tulear is a very happy breed. They seem to constantly be smiling, wagging their tails and wanting to be around the family. They do best when they are left alone only for brief periods of time. The Coton de Tulear is not a good breed for a family that will be gone more than they are home or that don't have time to spend with their pet on a regular, daily basis.
Health Problems

The Coton De Tulear is one of the healthiest breeds of dogs with no known Health Problems, likely due to breeders continued efforts to closely monitor and select the best possible Breeding programs. All Coton de Tulears in the United States must complete a blood chemistry test as

well as general Health test to qualify for breeding status in the Coton de Tulear registry. Some conditions that the health exam looks for include: Cherry Eye-prolapsed gland in the third eyelid, usually corrected by surgery. Progressive Retinal Atrophy-progressive blindness. Patellar Luxation-dislocation of the kneecaps. CHD-canine hip dysplasia is a progressive weakening of the hip joint causing pain and limited movement. Legg Calve Perthes Disease-bone and circulatory disease of the hips, can be treated by removing the joint and constructing a new joint of muscles and tendons. It is genetically transmitted condition that is common in most small breeds.
Grooming

Daily grooming is key to keeping the coat of the Coton de Tulear looking its best and free from mats and knots. While they are not a shedding breed the longer, dead hairs if not removed from the coat will cause skin irritations as well as mats and tangles in the coat that can become very significant in a short period of time. Daily grooming either by brush or comb will keep the coat looking soft and tangle free with just a simple routine that shouldn't take more than five minutes. The Coton de Tulear usually only sheds hair when been groomed, much like a human loses hair when they brush. Since the hair is so dry to the touch and silky, it is typically easy to groom using a wide toothed grooming comb or a pin brush. Start at the neck and groom down and back, following the direction of hair growth. The Coton de Tulear will never have a sleek, lie down on the skin type of coat so it is not essential to worry about exactly how the hair appears on the body, a windblown look is considered the best for the breed. The coat of the Coton de Tulear is naturally very clean and should only be bathed once or twice a year, never more frequently. It is important to trim the hair on the feet to prevent it from matting between the pads and becoming uncomfortable or absolutely painful for the dog. This can be done with blunt ended grooming scissors that prevent any possibility of nicking the skin. The ears should also be carefully checked and cleaned with each grooming and any long hairs in the outer ear area should be plucked to avoid irritation for the dog. Show Coton de Tulears may not be trimmed or clipped, although many pet owners choose to clip the hair over the eyes as well as clip or trim the hair on the body. When clipping or trimming the Coton de Tulear it is possible to do it yourself or simply take the dog to the groomer. If you are using a professional groomer clearly explain the type of cut you want and even ask to see pictures of what the clip or style will look like on your dog to prevent any surprises. Most groomers will allow the owners to stay with the dog, at least for the first session, to ensure that the clip is just what the owner is expecting.

Exercise

The Coton de Tulear is a great indoor dog in that he or she will keep active in the house and does not need to be regularly outside in the yard. As with all types of dogs the Coton de Tulear does need regular exercise to stay fit and healthy, but this can be complete through inside activities such as fetch as well as going for regular, shorter walks. The Coton de Tulear will also adjust to long, lengthy walks or romps outside in the yard with the family. Due to its soft and cotton appearance many people mistakenly assume that the Coton de Tulear is a very delicate or fragile dog, which really isn't the case at all. These dogs love to run and play, especially with other dogs and pets. One of the best forms of exercise for the breed is a companion dog that will keep them active either in or outside of the house. The Coton de Tulear is naturally very playful and is a wonderful natural retriever, enjoying a game of fetch for as long as the owner is willing to throw the ball or toy. The Coton de Tulear is also an avid swimmer and loves to get into the water. With their cottony white coats this can often be a bit of a concern, but they are a water loving dog and will take every opportunity they can find to go in for a swim. They love long walks and hikes and are even a great jogging companion for an active family or individual. Traditionally the Coton de Tulear used to run alongside the owner's horse, able to go for miles at a brisk jog or light running pace.
Training

Training the Coton de Tulear is a very pleasant experience although they are occasionally a bit headstrong and stubborn. The breed is very lovable and wants to please the owner, making them very responsive to positive training methods that use praise and small rewards. They are quick to learn both good and bad habits and will find many endearing little things to do when they think they may be in trouble. Many Coton de Tulear are naturally adept at learning tricks like walking on their hind legs and sitting up to beg. The Coton de Tulear, bred as a companion dog for so long, seems to have the ability to understand what the owners is wanting before the command needs to be given. They are ideal obedience and agility dogs and seem to love competition and being in the spotlight. As with all breeds they do need consistent training and a puppy obedience class is highly recommended to provide both socialization as well as a good understanding of the basic commands. Most Coton de Tulear are very clean dogs and puppies and will almost housetrain themselves given the opportunity to get outside when needed. They are also excellent dogs to crate train although the owners must be committed to following the routine and ensuring that the puppy gets outdoors or to the designated areas when in the crate. Teaching the Coton de Tulear tricks and entertaining routines is very easy. Unlike some dogs they will be able to understand multiple commands and are reported to have an uncanny ability to understand what their owner is saying. To avoid any confusion when first training the Coton de Tulear it is recommended that one person train the dog first, then have other members of the family work with the dog using the same commands and signals.

Curly-Coated Retrievers
Life Span:9 and 14 years. However, it has been documented that they have lived to reach the age of 17. Litter Size:8 puppies Group:Gun Dog, Sporting Group Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The only acceptable colors of the Curly-Coated Retriever are pure black or pure liver (brown). Occasionally some what hairs are permitted, but white patches are not a serious flaw. Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:25-27 inches Male Weight:80-100 pounds Female Height:23-25 inches Female Weight:65-85 pounds Living Area:It is not recommended that the Curly-Coated Retriever is kept in an apartment style environment. They will do best with at least a large fenced yard. However, they are family dogs and desire close contact with the family and should not be left alone outside all day long. They are very active outdoor dogs and love to run and swim, but they are very quiet and calm indoor animals.
Description

Curly-Coated Retriever can be described as a large, hardy, and athletic looking dog. They have a tight curly coat which will protect them from debris and injuries when they are out in the brush. Their tight curls even extend to their small ears, back of the neck, and tail. Only the face, the front of the legs, and the hocks are smooth. They should be strong, agile, while remaining elegant. The dog should be longer than it is tall at the withers. They should have strong limbs and the back should be strong and level. The hindquarters should be strong and muscular and in balance with front angulation. The thighs are to be powerful with muscle that continues down into the

second thigh. The rear dewclaws should be removed. The shoulder blades are considered to be very long and covered in muscle. The front dewclaws are generally removed as well. The feet are round and compact with thick pads and arched toes. The head of the Curly-Coated Retriever is longer than it is wide and is wedge shaped. This makes them readily distinguishable from the other retriever breeds. The head has a continuous straight taper to the nose. It is clean cut but not blocky or cheeky. The expression of the CurlyCoated Retriever is alert and intelligent. They have large almond shaped eyes that are not too prominent. The ears are small and are set slightly higher than the eye. The gait of the Curly-Coated Retriever is powerful and strong while remaining agile and fast. This is essential for their place as a gun dog in water retrieving. They cover large amounts of ground very quickly but they never appear to be lumbering. It is a gait that is balanced front to rear and seems almost effortless. This balance is necessary for their endurance.
Coat Description

The Curly-Coated Retriever is a single coated dog with no undercoat. They do shed but not as much as other breeds that have an undercoat. They typically shed more during severe weather changes. Bitches will also shed more during their heat cycles, about twice a year.
History

The Curly-Coated Retriever is considered to be one of the oldest retriever breeds. They were used for retrieving as early as the 18th century in England. The breed was most likely developed by crossing the Close-Curled English Water Dog, Old Water Spaniel, St. John's Newfoundland Dog, the Labrador, and the Poodle. They are excellent water retriever dogs with a very gentle mouth that is best suited for duck or quail. Popularity of the Curly-Coated Retriever declined in the 1900's in England. One theory is that there were several atypical dogs that gave the breed and bad name and caused hunters to use other retrievers. They were given the reputation as being hard-mouthed. This in fact is not true. They are considered to be a very soft-mouthed breed. Today the Curly-Coated Retriever is very popular throughout the United States, Australia, and New Zealand. If you are looking to own a Curly-Coated Retriever they may be a little difficult to find. Today they are known for their abilities in hunting, retrieving, guarding, agility, tracking, watch-dogging, and competitive obedience.
Temperament

The Curly-Coated Retriever is a very happy, energetic, and easy going breed. They are highly intelligent and very eager to please. They are historically hunting and gun dogs which makes them very easily trainable. However, one thing to be aware of with the Curly-Coated Retriever is that they are late bloomers. They typically do not fully mature until they are about three years of age. The owners should be patient and understand before they get the puppy that they will have a puppy for a few years.

Curlies make excellent family dogs. They are extremely loyal and desire close family contact. They show tons of affection and are very loving. They are said to be great therapy dogs. Their happy go lucky nature make them excellent animals to have if there are children in the house. Owners with children should be cautious and supervise the dog with the children because the dogs can accidentally knock the children over. The same applies for the elderly. In their first few years of maturation the puppies are very rowdy and jumpy and if there is concern about children or elderly being jumped on or knocked over it is suggested that perhaps the Curly-Coated Retriever should not be in those households. They make excellent watchdogs and will protect the family from danger or threats. The Curly-Coated Retriever does need to be socialized and trained from a young age. They are sensitive dogs and can be very reserved and timid around strangers. Socialization at an early age can eliminate or reduce this shyness so that it does not become problematic. Due to their nature as watchdogs and their desire to protect the family, it is important that they are socialized at a young age so they know the difference between threats and daily happenings. They are also very mischievous and can have a mind of their own. This makes it important to have early, gentle, and consistent training. The training should be gentle, as this breed is rather sensitive, but it should also be firm to show the dog who is the dominant one in the relationship. The Curly-Coated Retriever is the perfect dog for a family or individual who lives an active life style, preferably close to the water. They should also be capable of consistent and firm training. The dog's independent thinking can make training difficult so an experienced dog owner is recommended. The owner should be patient and firm with the animal from the time they are a puppy and as they mature in the next few years. The Curly-Coated Retriever is definitely not a dog for everyone, but will make excellent pets and companions for the right individual or family.
Health Problems hip dysplasia: Malformation of the ball and socket joint in the hip. It causes arthritic like symptoms.

Cancer: The most common skin cancer is mast cell tumors which is a form of malignant skin tumors. The most common bone cancer is Osteosarcoma.

Patterned Baldness : Often mistaken as a thyroid problem, this can cause reproductive problems, hormone imbalance, and Allergies. In mild forms the patterning may appear once and then never again after it grows back.

Bloat: Also known as Gastric torsion, this is a very serious condition caused by Exercise after large amounts of food and water. Surgery is necessary. Cardiac Problems: Becoming increasingly more common in the Curly Coated Retriever.

 Epilepsy: Causes seizures. Grooming

Grooming of the Curly-Coated Retriever is considered to be a minimally time consuming process. Nails on the retriever need to be trimmed when necessary, but some never need to be trimmed at all. They should only be trimmed when necessary with special attention given not to cut the quick. Cutting the quick can be very painful and will cause bleeding. Bathing of the Curly-Coated Retriever is rarely necessary. Bathing should happen about two or three times a year. In fact, over bathing of the dog will strip the coat of its natural oils. However, it is important to note that the oils on the dog can be problematic for people with allergies therefore people who are prone to allergies should avoid the Curly-Coated Retriever as a pet. They should never be rubbed down to get them dry. They should be allowed to just air dry or a towel placed over them and gently patted down. Brushing the Curly-Coat Retriever should be done during shedding season to reduce the shed and keep the coat healthy. Typically this is when the dog is bathed as well. The coat will actually be healthier and benefit from frequent swimming and being out in the sun. Hunters that have Curlies often do not bathe or brush their dogs during the hunting season because it can help protect them from the brush and rough environments. If the dog is used as a hunting companion it is important for the owner to check the dog for any debris, cuts, or abrasions. Although this breed with generally not fuss over small wounds, it is important for them to be treated to prevent infection. Grooming for show is a little more involved but still considered to be minimal or moderate. The Curly-Coated Retriever can be groomed professionally for show or the owner can learn the qualifications of what the standards are. They are excellent dogs for agility and competitive obedience, so some grooming for competition may be necessary if you have your pet involved in those activities.
Exercise

The Curly-Coated Retriever has a very high energy level and craves physical and mental stimulation. They are a perfect dog for an active individual or family. They love to swim and water retrieve. This makes them excellent dogs for the family who goes to the lake or lives near the water. They should be exercised daily. They do love the outdoors and enjoy any type of physical activity, but really do prefer to be retrieving and in the water. They are highly intelligent and energetic which makes them the perfect dog for agility and obedience classes. Agility training and competitive obedience are excellent ways for the Curly-Coated Retriever to obtain both that physical and mental stimulation that they crave. If the dog is being used for hunting or water retrieving it is important for the owner to take some care in ensuring that the dog is clean from debris and any injuries.

Training

Proper training of the Curly-Coated Retriever is essential. They can be difficult puppies and dogs and therefore should be trained from an early age. Initially it is important for the dog to be given enough mental and physical stimulation. They are known to get bored and become destructive. As puppies they are late bloomers and therefore the owner should be aware that they could have rowdiness and other issues on their hands for up to three years. They can destructively chew things and can make a total disaster out of the house and yard. They are also known to bark excessively when bored. Young puppies of this breed are very rambunctious and are considered to have a high level of bounciness. This means that things in the home can go flying including small children and toddlers. The dog should be trained from a young age that jumping up is not acceptable. The dog should be watched carefully around young children and the elderly to make sure that no one gets hurt. In addition to this, as puppies they can be very mouthy and will carry objects around the home and mouth people's hands and feet. Socialization is also very important for the Curly-Coated Retriever. They can be very standoffish with strangers and therefore should be put into new environments and around new people from a young age. They are also quite stubborn which means that training should be firm and consistent. The handler or owner should be aware that they need to prove to the dog and establish that they have the upper hand in the relationship. They are highly intelligent and are trainable dogs for agility and obedience, but it does take a firm hand.

Dachshunds
Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size:1-3 puppies. Group:Hound Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Two colored varieties include chocolate, black, wild boar, blue (gray) and fawn. These dogs will have tan markings over the eyes, on the sides of the jaw, underlip, inner edge of ear, front, breast, throat, paws insides of the legs. Hair Length:Long, Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:14 to 18

Male Weight:9 to 20 lbs Female Height:14 to 18 Female Weight:9 to 20 lbs Living Area:Dachshunds are very good indoor dogs. They are typically quite active, but because of their size, they can get their needed activity indoors, without requiring a yard. Dachshunds are extremely good diggers, so if you're planning to leave them unsupervised in the yard, be certain that your fence is secure, particularly at the bottom. If the dog becomes bored, he is quite likely to dig out. Because the Dachshund is prone to obesity, you should watch their food intake. Don't allow them to free feed or over eat. Dry food is lower in calories than canned food and is better for the teeth, as well.
Description

Dachshunds are elongated dogs with short legs that are of the hound family. They are German in origin, and their name literally means badger dog, though in Germany they are commonly referred to as Dackel or Teckel dogs. The standard sized Dachshund was developed to hunt badgers while the miniature was developed to hunt rabbits. Dachschunds come in two sizes; the standards on both varieties are exactly the same except for size. They are all longer than they are tall. There are three coat varieties; smooth coated, long coated and the rarest, the wire coated. Dachshunds are low to the ground with very short legs and very muscular bodies. Their skin is very elastic, but not wrinkly. They are very well balanced in spite of their long bodies and they hold their heads high. Their head taper uniformly to the tip of the nose. Their eyes are medium sized, dark and almond shaped, with dark rims. Their ears are set near the top of their heads, are rounded and moderately long. The flopping down of the ears was intentionally bred into the dog to prevent their ears from getting filled with dirt and other debris while they were hunting under the ground. Their lips are tightly stretched and they have strongly developed teeth that fit closely together in a scissors bite. Their teeth are exceptionally strong for a dog of their size. The Dachshund has a long muscular neck that flows gracefully into their shoulders. Their trunks are exceptionally long and very muscular. Their bodies hang low to the ground, but should not be loose. Their front legs are very strong, as they were built for flushing animals out of burrows. They have very tight and compact front feet with well arched toes and tough, thick pads. Their hind legs are very well muscled with strong and powerful thighs. Their hind feet are smaller than their

front feet. They have a long and rounded croup that sinks slightly toward the tail. Their tails are set in and have no pronounced curving. The Dachshund has a very fluid gait. Their forelegs reach forward without lifting much as they run. Dachshunds are very popular in the US, ranking 6th in terms of the number registered with the AKC. This breed has become synonymous with Germany. In fact, they are so closely associated with this country, that a Dachshund was the official mascot for the 1972 Summer Olympics, held in Germany.
Coat Description

There are three coat varieties of Dachshund. The Smooth Coat-Short, smooth, shiny coat. Should not be long or thick. Their tails should taper gradually without too much hair. The Wirehaired Coat-This coat consists of a uniform tight coarse outer coat with a finer softer undercoat. This variety of Dachshund has a beard and eyebrows. Hair is shorter and smooth on the ears. Their tails are thickly haired and taper to a point. The Longhaired Coat-This variety has sleek hair that often has a slight wave. It is longer under the neck and on the fore chest, the underside of the body and on the ears and behind the legs, but they should not have long hair all over the body, nor should their hair be overly curly. Their tails have the longest hair and are carried somewhat like a flag.
History

It is believed that the ancestors of the Dachshund existed as far back as ancient Egypt, due to artifacts found that depicted small dogs with very short legs. This German breed was developed as a badger hunter hundreds of years ago. In German, "dachs" means badger and "hund" means hound. The breed was derived from a mixture of German, French and English hounds and terriers. These dogs have many terrier traits and are excellent hunters. They have been bred to have very short legs, to help them dig as well as to help them get into the burrows where animals like badgers and rabbits reside. The first verified reference to a Dachshund comes from books written in the 1700s. The original German Dachshunds were larger than today's standard; weighing as much as 40 pounds. But, over time, they were bred to be smaller to assist them in hunting, and over time, the miniature variety was developed for hunting smaller prey. In addition to furrowing out den animals, dachshunds have also been used as standard hunting dogs, for fox and locating wounded deer. They have even been used in packs to hunt larger game like wild boar, and very fierce animals like wolverines.

Temperament

Dachshunds are very clever dogs. They have a lively temperament and are very gregarious, but this particular breed is prone to vary in temperament more greatly from dog to dog. They are brave to a fault; often not realizing how small they are. They are bred for work and have a fair amount of energy. They are very sturdy for their size. Dachshunds require a large amount of interaction. If they become bored, they can be destructive, so it's important to keep them entertained when you can, and to keep them confined when you can't. Bored Dachshunds have also been known to become aggressive. Socialization is important as is obedience training, since some Dachshunds are very willful. They can also be quite demanding if spoiled. Once trained, they are very loyal and loving to their owners. They can be protective to a fault; they know no fear and will go into battle with any animal they perceive as a threat, regardless of its size. Dachshunds are extremely playful, and will love a good game of fetch, hide and seek or chase with their owners and with other pets in the home, so long as they are properly socialized with each other. They are prone to chasing small animals and birds when they are outside. For this reason, it's important not to let your dog off his leash in an uncontained area. He may become focused on chasing a bird and run away. This is not a good breed of puppy to bring into the home if you have small children. However, an adult Dachshund who acquires children will usually do quite well with them, as long as they are properly introduced. Particularly in the case of Miniature Dachshunds, however, children should always be taught how to handle them, since they are somewhat fragile, simply due to their size.
Health Problems

Dachshunds are prone to spinal disc problems, also known as Dachshund paralysis. This is due to their very long spinal columns and very short rib cages. Dogs with this problem can become completely paralyzed. For this reason, it's important that your dog be trained early on not to jump, as jumping puts additional pressure on the spine. You should also be taught how to hold your dog properly, as improper handling can lead to back problems, too. Some veterinarians caution against Dachshunds using stairs, though most feel that it does not pose a problem for the dog to use stairs, as long as they are walking instead of running. Researchers are finding that the occurrence and severity of these spinal disc problems are hereditary in large part, so it's important to inquire about such problems from your breeder. They are also prone to Heart disease, urinary tract problems and diabetes. This dog can become inactive as they age, which makes them prone to obesity. This disease causes the same problems in dogs as in humans, shortening their life expectancy and making them more prone to heart disease, joint problems and diabetes. Being overweight also puts additional strain on their backs. Dappled Dachshunds are prone to Deafness and blindness. For this reason, they are very rare, as most breeders refuse to breed this pattern.

Whenever you purchase a puppy, it's important to purchase from a reputable breeder. Reputable breeders will work hard to breed out deficiencies by not Breeding any dog that has shown signs of genetic or Health Problems. Breeders that are not reputable, however, will breed any dog, and are more likely to replicate genetic problems in their puppies. Before you purchase a puppy, ask questions about the lineage of the puppy.
Grooming

Longhaired Dachshunds require daily brushing to keep them free of mats and tangles. Short haired versions will require weekly brushing and wire haired varieties need to be trimmed at least twice a year. This breed is an average shedder; rubbing them down occasionally with a damp towel will help keep the hair at bay.
Exercise

These dogs do need exercise. As young dogs, they are typically quite active, but can get lazy as they get older. So, it's important that you provide them enough opportunities to exercise to keep them strong and prevent obesity. Since this dog is small, games of fetch in the house may be enough to get them proper exercise. However, they will also enjoy a walk with you and can get a good amount of exercise this way. Because of their short legs, they are not considered good running companions. Dachshunds are very popular breeds for competition. In fact, the Weiner Nationals are extremely popular Dachshund races. In addition, many Dachshunds participate in earth dog trials, competitions for dogs to track and locate artificial bait or caged live mice. Because this breed is a scent hound, they also often compete in scent tracking events. The Dachshund Club of America holds a national scent tracking championship each year for the best trackers in this breed.
Training

The Dachshund requires firm and consistent training, but once trained, they are a great companion dog and extremely loyal. From an early age, they must understand that you are the "alpha dog", as they can be quite stubborn and resist training. Dachshunds require socialization at an early age, to prevent them from being wary of human strangers and fearful. They should also be taught early on about inappropriate barking and taught not to jump, since this can be dangerous for their spines. Crate training works well for housebreaking the Dachshund. Because this breed can be stubborn, and because their accidents are easy to miss due to their size, it's important to be very persistent in house breaking them. If they have an accident that goes unnoticed, they will believe that going to the bathroom in the house is acceptable, and the habit will be nearly impossible to break. Keeping your puppy in his crate unless you are actively interacting with him will help ensure that there are no accidents. Puppies should not be allowed to roam the house unsupervised until they are consistently house trained.

It's wise to leave your Dachshund in his crate when you leave the house even after he's house trained, since they are prone to destruction when bored. After a period of time, you will know your dog well and will know whether or not it's safe to allow him to roam the house when you're away.

Dalmatians
Aliases: Fire Engine Dog,
Life Span:11 and 16 years Litter Size:7 to 9 puppies Group:Non-sporting group. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:You may easily recognize the Dalmatian because of the characteristic spots on its coat. These spots are usually brown, black, or a lighter lemon color. Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height: 27 inches Male Weight:70lbs Female Height:19 to 24 inches Female Weight:45-65 lbs Living Area:Contrary to popular belief, Dalmatians can live in apartments, townhomes, and homes without large yards. Because they have a short coat, they cannot stand extreme hot or cold weather, which means you may need to keep them indoors on very hot or cold days. Dalmatians should not be left outside to live in a doghouse, however. Because they require more human contact than other breeds, leaving the dog outside is cruel and may lead to bad behavior. It is best to allow the dog to go outside during the day, but only for short periods of time. The dog will tell you when it wants to go back inside. Dalmatians enjoy being in the company of people, so buying a comfortable dog bed or blanket

will help the dog stay comfortable. If buying a puppy, you should consider buying a crate for it to sleep in during the night. This is to protect the puppy from objects in the home, and also so you can get a good night's sleep. Crate training your dog early will make it easier when the dog is older. While some people only use crates until adulthood, you can make it their permanent night spot if you have a crate that is large enough. Using crates for punishment is not recommended as the dog will associate the crate with bad behavior instead of a comfortable place to sleep.
Description

Dalmatians, when treated and cared for properly, can make fantastic pets for those who enjoy an active lifestyle. An energetic dog by nature, Dalmatians require attention from their owners and should be walked at least once a day. Many people enjoy taking these dogs to parks, dog runs, and other areas where there are other dogs and people. Adult Dalmatians are usually 19 to 24 inches in height and weigh 45-65 lbs. Males are larger than females and can grow to be 27 inches and weigh 70lbs. Dalmatians are considered medium sized dogs and are fairly strong animals. You may easily recognize the Dalmatian because of the characteristic spots on its coat. These spots are usually brown, black, or a lighter lemon color. Spots will begin to appear as the dog begins to reach adulthood. Puppies are born without spots. If you are considering showing your Dalmatian, keep in mind that dogs with lighter colored spots are restricted from competing. Another characteristic of the Dalmatian is the look in their eyes. Viewed as intelligent, these dogs have bright brown, blue, or amber colored eyes. Their intelligence is supported by their devotion to people, their ability to stand guard and protect what they feel is important, and their overall friendliness.
Coat Description History

While little is known about where the Dalmatian came from, some seem to think they came from Dalmatia, which is part of Croatia. Evidence of Dalmatians was discovered in Egypt as well. In the 1800's, Dalmatians were used more often as guard dogs and carriage dogs. Protecting what was inside carriages by running alongside them, Dalmatians were the perfect choice because of their loyalty and endurance. Dalmatians were also used to guard firehouses for the same reasons why they were used as carriage dogs.
Temperament

On average, Dalmatians are an easy-going breed. You will have to spend time training your dog, but with a little patience and trial and error, Dalmatians become well-adjusted to their new

surroundings and rules. It is best to establish feeding times, exercise times, and grooming times so the dog can develop a routine. Because this breed can become uneasy when new events take place, it is best to remain as consistent as possible. Spending quality time with your dog is very important as Dalmatians tend to get bored or depressed easily when left alone for long periods of time. If left alone all day, Dalmatians will need to be walked in the evening and extra on the weekends in order to release some of their pent up energy. Some Dalmatians may damage carpets, furniture, and other items in the home when they have been cooped up for too long or they have been left alone for more than a day. When going in vacation, it is best to board your dog or allow someone to dog sit. If left alone for days at a time, Dalmatians can become angry and destructive.
Health Problems

Two major Health issues that are associated with Dalmatians are Deafness and kidney stones. While most litters will not contain any deaf puppies, up to 12% of all adult Dalmatians will become deaf at some point in their lifetime. This is due to genetics, poor Breeding, and in most cases, age. It is important that you purchase your Dalmatian from a certified breeder who will have all puppies hearing tested using the BAER test. Buying a puppy that is deaf is not fair to you or the dog. Dalmatians that cannot hear will not be able to take commands and will always be fearful when other people enter the room. If the dog escapes, it will not survive long without the ability to hear. Most breeders put puppies that are deaf down and do not sell them. If your Dalmatian loses its hearing during adulthood, you would have laid the foundation of proper Training and the dog will know you well enough not to become startled when they don't hear you. Being patient with your dog is the way to handle the situation. As with any older dog, you should schedule yearly visits to your vet and seek advice if you think your dog is losing its hearing. Some dogs may only be able to hear in one ear, but this should not stop the dog from having a full life. Kidney stones can cause your dog pain, but fortunately, are not too common in most Dalmatians. Because some Dalmatians excrete undiluted uric acid from their kidneys, they can develop kidney stones, toxemia, and kidney blockage. While this is a condition that can be treated, you will have to take your dog to the vet to seek proper medication. Switching from a high protein dog food to something that contains wheat, corn or soy will help prevent kidney stones. Allergies and skin rashes may also occur if your dog is bit by a flea or tick. hip dysplasia may also occur in older dogs.

Grooming

Even though Dalmatians have a short coat, they still need to be brushed each week to prevent excessive shedding. Using a curry comb, bristle brush, or horsehair mitt, you simply brush the dog outside once or twice a week depending on how much the dog sheds. This will give the dog a shiny coat and also keep hair from piling up around the house. In addition to brushing your Dalmatian's coat, you should also trim their nails once a week to prevent overgrowth. This is very easy to do and you will need a pair of animal nail clippers that can be found in most pet stores. Only trim the top portion of the nail. Cleaning your dog's ears may also be necessary especially if they suffer from allergies, bacterial infection, or they have a wound or other type of injury. Clean ears with baby oil and a cotton ball. Do not go too far into the ear as you could damage the ear canal. Instead, gently wipe around the outer ear. If you notice your dog is scratching its ears often or shaking its head too often, you should take the dog to the vet as they may have an infection. With proper grooming, you will always have a happy, well adjusted dog that looks beautiful at all times.
Exercise

Dalmatians love to play. They enjoy going for walks, running, and fetching. If you lead an active lifestyle and want a dog to take with you when participating in outdoor activities, then a Dalmatian is one of the best breeds to own. If possible, Dalmatians should be able to spend at least an hour outside each day. This means two walks per day, or spending more time outdoors in the evening. Dalmatians can also play in a fenced in yard if you have one. Because these dogs have a tendency to run away when unattended, you should monitor the dog while it is outside and make sure it cannot jump over the fence or knock it down. Dalmatians that do not get enough exercise may become angry or depressed. They may become aggressive and forego their routine. If you don't have the time to spend with your dog outside each day, you should consider another breed.
Training

Creating a daily routine will help prevent urination 'accidents' that will occur when you first bring the dog home. Taking your dog outside before you go to work, after you get home, and once more before bedtime will help your dog be able to have more control during the times you aren't at home. Daily routines will also make Dalmatians feel more comfortable around people and their surrounds. Developing a routine could take up to six months, but once your dog is trained, you will need to maintain the routine in order to keep your dog happy. Other types of training your Dalmatian may require are basic commands for public situations.

Walking your dog in public will help them become more comfortable around people. When teaching new commands, give the dog a treat when they are successful. Every time they follow your command, give a treat. Do not use negative reinforcement with training your Dalmatian. Even though they are even tempered dogs, they could become angry when punished or verbally abused. Keep instructing your dog using positive reinforcement until they learn the commands. While it is easier to train a puppy, you can still train an adult dog with a little patience and consistency on your part. If you want to enroll your puppy in obedience training classes, wait until they are at least 5 or 6 months old. Most puppies can learn simple commands at this age. As your puppy grows, they will learn more advanced commands.

Dandie Dinmont Terriers

Life Span:12-15 years, though some have lived to be 18. Litter Size: 2-4 puppies with the average being 3 puppies Group:Terrier, Terriers

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Pups either come in a black and silver coat (pepper) that resembles a schnauzer or a reddish yellow colour that is usually called "mustard" though not often as yellow as the name might imply. Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:10-12 inches (25-30cm) Male Weight:20-24 pounds (9-11kg) Female Height:8-10 inches (20-25cm) Female Weight:18-22 pounds (8-10kg)

Living Area:Since Dandie Dinmont terriers are so small, they are very well-suited to apartment living. They are very likely to consider themselves one of the "pack" and are very likely to get up on furniture just as you might. Thankfully they don't shed, so there will be little trace of the transgression other than a nice warm patch on the chair they just vacated when you arrive home. Be sure they have step stools so they don't injure their long backs while jumping down. Their coats are a bit fussy and may become hopelessly matted on the head and haunches when running around in rural settings unless they'e groomed on a daily basis. On the other hand, they are ideally suited to running around in the woods all day after quarry, so any Dandie with such wide-ranging living quarters will surely be a tired and happy dog that will have no problem with a brushing whatsoever. Many people who live in such areas keep their dogs' hair cut short.

Description

This dog is long and short, like a dachshund, but with the face and temperament of a terrier. Originally bred in southern Scotland, this breed has been the scourge of vermin for several hundred years while being a happy and fun loving delight for human companions. Dandies tend to be rather feisty little dogs with a love of chasing things and begging for affection from human "pack mates." They make particularly good companion animals for apartment living, since they're small, don't shed and aren't "yippy." They have relatively few congenital problems and are usually easy for most people, including children, to get along with. The coat is usually kept close on the body with the characteristic topknot of silky fur on their heads. Most pups are white or light coloured (often called mustard colouring) or dark and silver (usually called pepper by breeders and enthusiasts). The Dandie has been an official breed since the late 19th century, but likely existed in the current form for about two hundred years before, specializing in otter and badger control. They were then further refinements to the breed when they began being used as mousers by gypsy caravans. Though the breed is not one of antiquity, it has one of the oldest breed clubs. It is, in fact, the only recognized breed of dog that is named for a fictional character. Dandies are well suited to modern life, there are very few of these dogs still in existence. They've gone through a decline in popularity and are now even considered among endangered "livestock" in the UK. However, since there has been a registrar for over a hundred years, it is apparent what breeding lines are known for specific ailments. A reputable breeder should be able to give you plenty of information about your new Dandie pup's lineage.
Coat Description

The Dandie Dinmont coat is actually a combination coat that includes a rough over coat and a very silky undercoat that is also evident on their heads. The hair on the head is usually kept somewhat long and may obscure the eyes if left too long between trimmings.

They do not shed and will require regular grooming to keep even a puppy cut in shape, partly because of the topknot on their heads.
History

It is thought the Dandie Dinmont terrier is the descendent of the now extinct Scotch Terrier (not to be confused with the Scottish Terrier that is a completely different dog) that was something like the Yorkshire, Cairn or Silky terriers of today. The breed was first mentioned in the 17th century as one of several breeds that showed promise as vermin control. The modern Dandie Dinmont terriers are named for a character in a very popular Sir Walter Scott novel of the early 19th century. At that time, they were primarily being bred by British Gypsies and used for hunting rodents and, were uniquely suited to these situations where they could be confined to relatively small quarters and then let loose to hunt down rats when the caravan stopped. When dog breeding became fashionable in the mid to late 19th century, many hobbyists began keeping Dandies and they were rather popular into the 20th century. Additionally, the breed has since been used to hunt down skunks, otters and even badger. As such, they are stupidly fearless and are known for their pluck. They continue to be used for hunting rodents, though most are now kept as companion animals. There are very few of these dogs remaining and are considered endangered in Great Britian.
Temperament

The Dandie Dinmont Terrier makes a very good companion dog for most small houses and apartments. They are loving and affectionate and will bond closely with family members. They are intelligent and somewhat wilful at times, though fun loving and playful. While they are eager to please, if there is something that requires their attention, it will be difficult (if not impossible) to call them off. Generally, they do not take to obedience readily, and must be very carefully trained from puppy-hood to reliably respond to all but the most simple of commands. Like many small dogs, Dandie Dinmont terriers are dogs that seem unaware of their small stature. They will take on any challenge or take off after just about anything that moves in their field of vision. During show trails they may compete in obedience or Earth Dog exercises. Since Dandies are so plucky, they also have a tendency to bark quite a bit. Their chest cavities are large, so they have a much deeper bark than you might expect from such a small dog. They do not back down from a fight and should be very carefully socialized with other people and dogs from a very young age. The Dandie Dinmont is a natural hunter of all small creatures that scuttle about, so they are not to be trusted with any cats they've not been raised with or any other small pets such as ferrets or

rabbits. When well socialized, they are rarely aggressive with other dogs except in the case of some intact males. It is recommended that two unaltered males not be allowed to share the same household. Females tend to be far less aggressive. However, it is still vitally important they meet other dogs while puppies so they do not become fearful, as they could become snappy. Above all, the Dandie is known as a very loving and affectionate dog that will be more than happy to please you as long as he or she isn't busy perusing some game.
Health Problems

Dandie Dinmont terriers are generally a healthy breed and long lived, though there are a few lines of the breed that have congenital Health Problems. Epilepsy: Some lines of the breed have a tendency for seizures. They may occur as the result of some stimulus or have no apparent cause at all. Most dogs will respond to medication and should be taken to the vet at the first sign of a seizure. Glaucoma: Older dogs may develop Cataracts. If your dog seems to be displaying any cloudiness in the eyes, contact your vet for an exam.
Grooming

The Dandie Dinmont Terrier's coat is very silky in some parts and can become matted and hopelessly tangled in very short order if they're not regularly groomed. However, with careful management, your dog's coat will remain very warm and water repellent. Of course, in the case of show dogs, this regimen can take a few hours per day to maintain showappearance. However, most owners of companion Dandies will have them trimmed into a puppy cut that is much easier to maintain. Regardless, the trick is to keep upon the task. This will certainly entail brushing at least twice per week and a visit to the groomer for a trim every few months. Owners often find themselves making adjustments to the cut to keep hair out of their eyes. Dead hairs are plucked out once a year. Their ears are pendulous and should be checked regularly for wax build-up by yourself or the groomer. Cleaning will generally entail taking a gauze pad and very gently wiping around the outside of the ear. Failure to do so can result in some very stinky wax deposits and may encourage mites. Never, ever dig into your dog's ear canal with a q-tip. Their nails are very often white and can be cut with relative ease. They don't often get enough exercise to wear them down completely. If your dog has dark nails, you'll have to be especially careful to not cut the quick. It is vital to get your puppy used to having his or her paws handled to facilitate nail cutting by yourself of a professional.

Exercise

A short walk is enough to keep them exercised, though it is important that you do so every day. Because of this, early leash training is very important. Training your Dandie to enjoy being on a lead will make the experience much more pleasant for both of you. Because they are so small and so inquisitive, it may very well be a good idea to get them a harness rather than just a collar. Even dogs that are trained to walk on a lead will leap after any cats or vermin that it encounters on your walk-often with such ferocity that they can harm themselves on even a short leash. If you have a yard, they can be allowed outside to play and are not usually very good escape artists. Even dogs that are allowed constant access to a yard will still need walks for mental stimulation just as much as the exercise. Though very few actually hunt anymore, they are ready to do so at a moments notice whether that's what you had in mind or not. As small as they are, Dandies can also occupy themselves indoors and are very good at chasing balls and other toys. Dogs that receive very regular indoor exercise will still need to get out for their mental health, but may actually get a great deal of the exercise they need from play. As long as the family is in the house, your Dandie will probably want to be there with you. Dandie Dinmonts are happy to accompany you on longer hikes and will up. They have a great deal of stamina and will keep going as long as you can. Be careful to keep them near you at all times, and don't let them run off, as it can be very difficult to call them back. They should never be let off anywhere near traffic.
Training

Dandie Dinmonts are not particularly interested in your training regimen, so it is vitally important that you are firm, consistent, and make training sessions fun for your Dandie Pup. They love to run around and play-the less they think you're trying to get one over on them, the easier it will be. Dandies are intelligent, but just intelligent enough to not follow orders blindly. It's not that they won't take training; they just may not trust your judgement. Therefore, it is vitally important that you use positive re-enforcement to assert your position as the alpha. Punitive measures are best kept to a minimum and should be gentle admonishments. Unless you've just caught your dog in the act, there's no point in shouting at them about something they may have done hours ago. Housebreaking is the most important aspect of training to most new owners of Dandie pups. The trick is to constantly be around when they are small and not allow them access to areas where they can make a mess in the house and you'll never notice it. Many people have great success with crate training. This will allow your pup the opportunity to have some quiet time in a space he or she can consider his or her own, as well as an opportunity

for early housebreaking success that you can work on. Many terriers and other dogs that were bred to hunt small underground creatures are now being trained up for Earth Dog trials. In these trials, your Dandie will go down a false warren and go after caged animals such as rats or mice. The competitions are not subjectively judged-either they pass on to the next level or not-there are no scores awarded. This can be a wonderful sort of fun training for your dog to get used to your commands with. Don't give up on your Dandie's training, even if they just don't seem to be getting it. They wouldn't give up on you.

Doberman Pinschers
Aliases: Doberman, Dobermann
Life Span:8-12 years Litter Size:3-8 puppies. Group:Mastiff/ACK Working Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Allowed colors in the Doberman Pinscher breed include black, red, blue and fawn. Black is the most common color and the most recognizable. Hair Length:Short Size:Large, Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:26-28 inches tall at the withers Male Weight:70-88 pounds Female Height:24-26 inches tall at the withers Female Weight:66-80 pounds Living Area:The Doberman is not an outdoor dog. They are very intolerant of cold weather. They also are much happier if allowed to live indoors. However, they do need room to exercise, so a yard is preferable.

Because Doberman Pinschers are prone to bloat, they should be fed twice a day rather than one large meal. Because they are prone to obesity, they should be fed dry dog food.
Description

The Doberman Pinscher is a medium sized dog with a square shaped body. They are compact and muscular, with a very strong appearance. They are powerful and capable of great speed. This is an energetic and protective dog with a regal appearance. Males look decidedly masculine and females decidedly feminine. The Doberman has a long head with a bit of a wedge shape. Their eyes are almond shaped, deep set and dark in color. Their ears are carried erect, and are normally cropped. The top of the skull is flat and turns with a slight stop to the bridge of the muzzle. Their cheeks are flat and their jaws are full and powerful. Teeth are strong and meet in a scissors bite. The Doberman's neck is proud, arched and muscular. Their necks should have a length that is well proportioned to their body. Their backs are short and firm, with a width that is proportionate with a hard and muscular body. They have a slightly rounded croup and a deep, broad chest. Their tails are carried high and are typically docked to approximately the second joint. Tails are carried slightly above horizontal. The Doberman has very powerful legs that are straight and perfectly parallel. Their feet are somewhat small, turned out and catlike. The Doberman has a vigorous and balanced gait. These dogs are beautiful and elegant runners, capable of great speed. Ear cropping and tail docking were once considered "must" for these dogs. Tails are docked just a few days after birth and ears are cropped between 7 and 9 weeks of age. Today, however, both of these practices are coming into question. In fact, tail docking is illegal in many countries, but not in North America. Cropping of the ears was begun to help create effective sound localization when the dogs were bred to be guard dogs. The process involves trimming off part of the ears and then propping them up with tape and bandages. This allows the cartilage to develop into an upright position. Cropping of the ears is also illegal in some countries. If the dog's ears are not cropped, they will resemble the ears of other hounds, and will turn downward. Likewise, if their tails are not docked, they will grow fairly long, like that of a hound or retriever. In some organizations, docked tails and cropped ears are required in order for the dog to compete in shows, but other shows will allow dogs to compete with ears that have not been cropped and tails that have not been docked.
Coat Description

The Doberman has a smooth coat. The hair is short, hard thick and close lying. There is often an invisible gray undercoat on the neck. The Doberman's coat is very sturdy and low maintenance.

They will often have markings of rust appearing above each eye, on the muzzle, throat and fore chest, on legs feet and below tail. A small white patch on the chest is allowed, provided it does not exceed 1/2 inch. There are also white Dobermans, but they are rare. White Dobermans face increased risk of diseases and abnormal development of the retina, so breeding of the White Doberman is discouraged. The American Kennel Club registers these albino Dobermans but disqualifies them from conformation shows. The Doberman Pinscher Club of America actively works to discourage breeding designed to create albino dogs.
History

The Doberman Pinscher is a fairly new breed. It is believed that they were created by using German Pinschers, Rottweilers, Beauceron, Pinschers, Greyhounds, English Greyhounds and German Shepherds. German tax collector Louis Dobermann created the breed to be a watchdog, but he liked the look of the Miniature Pinscher. So, the Doberman Pinscher was created to look like the Miniature Pinscher breed, but with the size and strength of a watchdog. So, the belief that the Miniature Pinscher is a smaller sized version of the Doberman Pinscher is incorrect. The new dog was given Dobermann's name after his death in 1894. It is said that Dobermann wished to create a watchdog breed because as a tax collector, he was forced to travel in some very dangerous areas and wanted a dog to protect him. In addition to being a tax collector, he was a dog breeder on the side, so he had access to dogs for breeding purposes. The Doberman Pinscher was presented at its first dog show in 1876. In 1976 a white Pinscher bitch was born. She was bred to her son, who was also bred to his litter sisters. This tight breeding was performed to continue the creation of the white color. The white color is caused by a genetic mutation which prevents pigment proteins from being manufactured. The White Dobermans had a following, as some people were very attracted to this albino coloring, and for awhile there were some breeding programs dedicated to increasing the numbers of this variety of Doberman, because they were in great demand. However, it was discovered after a time that the same genetic mutation that prevents color from developing also makes the dog more prone to disease and causes abnormal development of the retina, which means the dog must be protected from the sun. Today, breeding programs for the white Doberman are not encouraged. However, there are some advocates of the white Doberman who insist that these dogs can be quite healthy.
Temperament

Doberman Pinschers are energetic and alert dogs. They are typically fearless, and make great watchdogs; though they should never be vicious. They are very loyal to their owners, and overall, are very obedient dogs. They are sweet and loving with their families. The Doberman Pinscher has a reputation for being a fierce and vicious dog. In the past, these

dogs have often been used as guard dogs and police dogs, and they have been stereotyped in the media, leading to this reputation. However, Dobermans will typically only attack if they feel that their family or property are truly in danger. In fact, according to the US Centers for Disease Control, Dobermans are less likely to be involved in attacks on humans than German Shepherd Dogs, Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, or Alaskan Malamutes. They have been used for guard and police work because of their size and strength. They were used extensively by the Marines during the Second World War. If your Doberman is properly trained to be a family dog you have absolutely nothing to fear from having this breed become part of your family. You'll find no more loyal dog breed and they are an effective watch dog, should you need one. They are great with children and with other pets in the home, but they should be introduced to them at an early age. They are extremely intelligent, and they're quick learners who are eager to please their owners. Dobermans vary in temperament more than many other breeds. Some are family oriented dogs while others bond predominantly to one person. Some have a tendency to be aggressive with other dogs, so they should be socialized with other dogs while they are puppies. Some Dobermans are very submissive, and males tend to be less dominant and stubborn than females. Still, because the dog is so intelligent and such an eager learner, with the right training, a Doberman of nearly any temperament can be a good family dog and a reliable, yet safe, watchdog.
Health Problems

Doberman Pinschers are typically healthy and strong dogs. However, they are prone to:
dilated cardiomyopathy. Wobblers Syndrome. cervical vertebral instability. von Willebrands disease. Wobbler's Syndrome is common in very large, fast growing dog breeds. Wobbler Syndrome causes the dog to wobble when they walk, particularly around the back end. They may also have difficulty with their front legs which may make them take short, choppy steps. If your dog has Wobbler Syndrome, your veterinarian may recommend kennel rest for a period of time and may prescribe pain medication as well as anti-inflammatory medications. Von Willebrand's disease is a genetic disorder that causes internal bleeding for which there is genetic testing available. Doberman Pinschers are also prone to bloating and hip dysplasia. In addition, they are prone to obesity

in middle and old age. Like in humans, obesity causes a wide range of Health Problems, including Heart disease and joint problems, and it shortens their lifespan overall. Obesity also aggravates the hip dysplasia that is already common Whenever you purchase a puppy, it's important to purchase from a reputable breeder. Reputable breeders will work hard to breed out deficiencies by not Breeding any dog that has shown signs of genetic or Health Problems. Breeders that are not reputable, however, will breed any dog, and are more likely to replicate genetic problems in their puppies. Before you purchase a puppy, ask questions about the lineage of the puppy. Grooming

The Doberman Pinscher requires very little grooming. Brushing them weekly or simply rubbing them down with a wet towel is all they normally require. They are average shedders. When your Doberman requires a bath, use a mild shampoo designed especially for dogs. Brush the dog before the bath to minimize the shedding. A simple towel drying is all he'll need after the bath to be sufficiently dry. Keep toenails regularly clipped.
Exercise

This is an active and athletic breed of dog. They do need sufficient exercise to be happy and healthy. They will love being your running or walking companion. They are also quite good at agility and other dog competition activities. These activities not only help the dog stay in shape, but also provide the needed mental challenge.
Training

The Doberman is a very intelligent breed, but they do need extensive training. They have a dominant personality and must be taught early on that you are the "alpha dog". In addition, due to their size and strength, it is imperative that their owners be able to handle them. They are assertive but not aggressive unless they are trained to be such. However, if they sense that you fear them or that you cannot show dominance over them, they are quite happy to be the dominant one in your household. If you have other pets, it's likely that your Doberman will be the dominant animal in your home. They are energetic, and will be happiest if you give them regular opportunity to run off this energy. He should be thoroughly socialized at an early age so that he is comfortable around strangers. The Doberman does not need guard dog training. They are naturally loyal and protective of their families. Too much "guard dog training" may cause them to be overly dominant or aggressive. By nature they will be protective, but will not attack unless they truly believe there to be the need. This natural temperament is what you want to keep. Some owners run into training issues with Dobermans because they are afraid of them. It is

imperative that every member of the family be taught to handle the dog with confidence, or the dog will become dominant. Training should be through positive reinforcement and should include the entire family. If you spend time with your Doberman and take the time to train him appropriately, you'll find no better family dog. They will want to be with the family and will require regular interaction. This is not a dog that can be relegated to living alone in the back yard.

Dogo Argentinos
Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:6-9 puppies Group: Color:The only acceptable color for showing is white, some black marks may be present on the face. Hair Length: Size: Shedding: Male Height:(60-68 cm) Male Weight: Female Height:(59-66 cm) Female Weight: Living Area:This breed does best in a home with at least an average-sized yard, but can manage an apartment if it is sufficiently exercised.
Description

A large, white and muscular dog, the Dogo Argentino was first bred in Argentina for big-game hunting, including wild boar and puma. Also called the Argentine Mastiff, these dogs are robust, intelligent and have quick responses, much like a serious athlete. A female Dogo Argentino measures in at about 24 to 27 inches in height (measured from the withers), while males measure 25 to 29 inches. Its body length is just slightly longer than the height, more so in female dogs than males. Measured from point of elbow to the ground, the length of the front leg is about equal to one-half of the dog's height at the withers.

Well-muscled, the Dogo Argentino has a wide, deep-set chest. Its massive head has a rounded shape from the front to the back, and there is an abundance of skin found on the neck. The Dogo Argentino's muzzle, which is about the same size as its skull, curves upwards slightly, with a slight stop. The teeth found in its strong jaw should meet in a scissors bite. Its nose is black and its dark brown, light brown or hazel eyes are set well apart (the rims of the eyes should be pink or black). Usually cropped to make them stand erect, the Dogo Argentino's triangular ears are set high. The Dogo Argentino has muscular thighs with a short hock and dewclaws are not usually present. Its long, thick tail is naturally carried low, reaching the hock. Its thick, glossy coat is white and has no undercoat. Some Dogo Argentinos have a black spot on its head, known as the "pirate," but this marking is not accepted in all clubs (this trait is accepted by Federacion Cinologica Argentina). A dark patch around the eyes is allowed as long as it doesn't cover more than 10 percent of the head.
Coat Description

The Dogo Argentino's coat is short, plain and smooth to the touch. The dog's coat is white, with possible ticking, and sometimes a dark mark on the head is present. Depending on the climate, the dog's coat can vary when it comes to density and thickness. In tropical climates, the coat is thin and sparse, while in a cold climate, it is thicker and denser and may have an undercoat.
History Temperament

It may look tough, but the Dogo Argentino is a loyal dog that makes a great guardian your home and your family. This breed is protective of its territory and will guard it against any intruder. That being said, the Dogo is playful and good with children, and is always generous when it comes to giving kisses and cuddling. A tireless playmate, this breed is happiest when included in family activities. Because this dog is so intelligent, the Dogo Argentino is easy to train as long as you use consistent and loving but firm authority. This powerful dog isn't for everyone - you need to be the leader of this pack. Even the more dominant Dogo Argentine can be taught to submissive towards humans and other animals. But to properly train this dog, you'll need to step up and show leadership. You'll need to be firm, confident, and consistent, and you should set the rules that the dog needs to follow. A Dogo Argentino needs limits in order to learn what it should and shouldn't be doing. One of the goals of training is to assert your role as pack leader and show your dog what its status is within the pack. All humans must be higher up in the pack order than the dog , as it's the only way the relationship can be successful. Adult Dogo Argentinos can become aggressive with other dogs, even though the Dogo doesn't usually provoke the confrontation. This dog will usually not tolerate another dog trying to assert dominance over them, so it may not live peacefully with another strong breed. You need to step in to tell your Dogo Argentino that is not its job to bring the other in line. In most cases, this

breed gets along with other dogs as long as it has been properly socialized. You will find that the Dogo Argentino is good with other pets if it is raised with them from a puppy.
Health Problems

Dogos are generally very healthy dogs, but there are three common Health issues. The first is Deafness - because it is a white coated dog, it is estimated that about 10 percent of Dogos are born deaf. The second is skin problems that can arise, again from the fact that it is a white-coated dog. Its skin is more sensitive than most other dogs, and is prone to skin Allergies and/or irritations. Finally, the Dogo Argentino suffers from hip dysplasia, the most common inherited orthopedic disease in large breeds. hip dysplasia is caused when the femoral head does not fit properly in the hip pocket, causing instability of the joint. Over time, this can cause pain, stiffness and immobility.
Grooming

With its short coat, you should brush your Dogo Argentino every other week as it does shed. You can also groom your Dogo once a week with rubber curry comb, which helps keeps its coat and skin in great shape. Because the Dogo Argentino is prone to skin allergies and/or irritations, use a gentle shampoo that is made for white coats when bathing your dog. You won't need to bathe your Dogo often, as its coat gives off very little odor. Clip your Dogo Argentino's nails every two to three weeks, as they grow quickly. Use a good set of nail clippers and be careful of the dog's quick - if you cut it, there will be a lot of blood. As well, when you clip your Dogo's nails, it helps it walk correctly and helps displace weight properly Your Dogo Argentino's ears need to be cleaned, especially they have been cropped (cropped ears allow more dirt into the ear canal). Start by using a soft tissue, cotton balls, but never Q-tips, as they can damage the ear drum. Use an ear cleaning solution and follow the directions on the bottle. And don't forget about your dog's teeth. Brushing your dog's teeth helps prevent bad breath, gum infections and irritating teeth problems. You can use finger toothbrushes and dog toothpaste or teeth cleaning chews.
Exercise

The Argentine Dogo was bred to work, so it needs to get rid of its energy is someway, even if it's a family pet. This breed needs to have regular opportunities to vent its energy and take part in interesting activities. If the Dogo doesn't get enough exercise, it will become rambunctious and bored. This usually translates into barking and destructive chewing, which can make a mess of your house and yard. Since the Dogo Argentino is a muscular breed, a daily exercise regimen needs to be kept diligently. Jogging, running, biking, and hiking alongside its owner is an excellent form of exercise for this breed. If you keep your Dogo indoors, it will require more exercise than outdoor dogs.

Training

Because the Dogo Argentino is a pack animal, this dog will want to become a part of your family and you have to train your Dogo that you are the pack leader. If you don't, this could lead to behavioral problem - if you don't assume the leadership role, your dog will. You need to assert yourself as the leader as early as possible through positive reinforcement, and firm but loving correction. Never use forceful punishment - you'll get much better results if your dog is happy. Like humans, Dogo Argentinos have its own distinct personalities, so some may be more willing to accept correction than others. It may not be easy to correct your dog, but it's in its best interest - if you don't, it can make life confusing if it doesn't know who is in charge. Housetraining your Dogo Argentino should start young. Like all the training steps, housetraining goes smoother if you build a good foundation. Watch for signs such as sniffing or circling that indicate that your puppy is ready to do its business. Take your Dogo out to the same place (if possible) as soon as it wakes, about five minutes after eating and just before bed. When you puppy is young, you should take it outside every hour. After your Dogo Argentino has gone outside, be sure to praise it and leave the area, so it knows the reason for the trips outside. If your dog has an accident, only correct if you catch it in the act. Leash training is important, as the Dogo Argentino is a big, strong breed. Start with a lightweight collar and lead for your puppy . Begin by holding the lead and letting your puppy explore. Next, get your Dogo to follow you with gentle grab-release tugs - never drag your puppy to get it to follow you. While it is important that this needs to be a pleasurable experience for both you and the dog, don't use this as a play time. You may also want to get your Dogo Argentino into Schutzhund training. Schutzhund is a sport that combines tracking, obedience, and protection. Schutzhund training lets you control how your dog reacts to certain situations and teach you how to control your dog if it gets too excited. Not only will you have a well-balanced, well-behaved dog, but the training process will establish a close bond between you and your Dogo Argentino.

Dogue de Bordeauxs
Aliases: French Mastiff, Bordeaux Bulldog
Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:9-10 puppies Group:Mastiff, Miscellaneous (AKC)

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Red-Brown, Fawn, Mahogany.

Hair Length:Short Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24-27 in (60-68 cm) Male Weight:110 lbs (50 kg) Female Height:23-26 in (58-66 cm) Female Weight:99 lbs (45 kg) Living Area:The Dogue de Bordeaux will be at its best in rural or lightly populated suburban areas. Although the breed doesn't spend an extremely large amount of time exercising in any given day (a few walks and some light play is usually sufficient), the massive size of the Dogue de Bordeaux makes it an impractical pet for the house or for anywhere without a fairly large yard and outdoor living area. Despite the Dogue de Bordeaux's generally outdoor lifestyle, you and your family should still endeavor to spend as much time with the Dogue as possible, as its highly companionable and affectionate nature causes it to perceive the absence of its humans as a kind of punishment--which is usually not what you want your happy family pet to feel.
Description

Despite the esoteric name (which substitutes the non-standard "dogue" for the French "chien"), the Dogue de Bordeaux is surprisingly famous as a breed. The dog accompanying Tom Hanks in "Turner and Hooch" was a Dogue de Bordeaux, and the distinctive wrinkled, masked faces of the Dogues are often used as a shorthand for powerful, menacing mastiffs and bulldogs in cartoons and popular imagery. In contrast to this menacing image, actual Dogues de Bordeaux are loyal protectors and companions to both adults and children. The dogs have extremely large and wrinkly heads in proportion to their bodies, which is impressive considering how large and powerful the dogs' bodies are. The Dogue's feet and tail are both large as well, and their necks have a distinctive "wattle" that in conjunction with their droopy ears gives the Dogue a slight appearance of laziness--an appearance that's revealed to be illusory when the Dogue is called on to protect his or her master.
Coat Description

The Dogue de Bordeaux's coat is extremely short, fine, and soft. The Dogue de Bordeaux often has a distinctive black, brown, or reddish "face mask" near and under the nose. This is considered a sign of pure breeding among French Dogue de Bordeaux enthusiasts, but the lack of a mask is still acceptable in many breeding circles.

History

Despite the Dogue de Bordeaux's typically French name and character, its origins are most likely the result of England's comparatively brief occupation of the Northwestern French province of Aquitane. During this period, historians of the breed now believe that English Mastiffs were bread with local French guard dogs, resulting in something similar to the Dogue de Bordeaux known today. (This would in part explain the use of the English-derived word for the breed, "dogue", as opposed to the Latin-derived "chien", from "canis"--for those who like to know exactly where their faithful companion's breed name comes from, of course.) Although sporadic reports of the Dogue de Bordeaux have been around since the 1200s, the breed wasn't specifically recognized by name until an early dog show in 1863. The generic term "dogue" had been in use to describe larger hunting and working dogs in the French countryside, and in the absence of official breed standards, the winning dog (from the Bordeaux region) was referred to simply as the "working dog from Bordeaux"--or "Dogue de Bordeaux". Throughout their history, the Dogues have been used for a variety of purposes, most commonly protecting flocks, hunting for foxes and bears, hauling heavy loads, and even during war (to drag wounded soldiers from the battlefields.) More tragically, the Dogue was also considered ideal for dogfighting, with Dogue-vs.-Dogue fights (or Dogue-vs.-bull fights, even) considered spectacular entertainment. Despite the high mortality rate of the Dogue from this fighting, the breed is beginning to make a resurgence today in France and around the world.
Temperament

The Dogue de Bordeaux goes a long way on the strength of its frightening features and its frightening size, which would make the Dogue a valuable guard dog and protector even if he or she never made a sound. It's this frightening size and ferocious appearance that has made the Dogue ideal for purposes of war, purposes of fighting, and purposes of hunting and guarding throughout the breed's nearly thousand-year history. But the secret of the Dogue de Bordeaux is this: its appearance belies its actual temperament. The Dogue de Bordeaux is, in fact, one of the most affectionate, calm, and companionable breeds in existence. The Dogue de Bordeaux, like some other large mastiff breeds, has very little feeling of pack organization--and thus is more drawn to form bonds of companionship with human beings. The Dogue is extremely loyal to his or her chosen masters, and often feels abandoned when these masters leave for long periods of time. This quality of companionableness with humans also makes the dog a much more useful watchdog then some of the excitable terrier breeds--whereas the latter dogs will yap and bark in order to frighten away virtually anyone who approaches them, the Dogue de Bordeaux relies on its terrifying size to frighten away criminals, and instinctively trusts and respects anyone else--until they prove their bad intentions toward the Dogue's masters, at which point the breed's ferocity takes over with grim results. This general companionableness, coupled with the Dogue's origins as a herder, makes the Dogue good with children or smaller animals. The Dogue, aware of his or her own strength, will tend to protect and shepherd weaker animals from harm. Larger or equally-sized animals, however,

should not be kept with the Dogue de Bordeaux as a rule--the Dogue has a history of hunting and fighting larger animals, and your dog may respond aggressively to these perceived "targets". The Dogue de Bordeaux has a low energy level, considering its size, which can make it a moderately frustrating breed when it comes to training--although the Dogue is extremely intelligent, it can often become simply too fatigued to work with a trainer for more than an hour or two at a time. Anyone who's interested in the Dogue de Bordeaux because they assume that its large size must equate to a high level of energy and playfulness would be well-advised to look elsewhere--although anyone who's interested in large dogs, but who dislikes their sometimes obnoxious and aggressive activity and playfulness, might find the Dogue de Bordeaux an ideal friend.
Health Problems

As with many heavy dogs, hip dysplasia is a significant problem. Dogues de Bordeaux are also susceptible to some forms of cancer. One breed-specific ailment has to do with the Dogue's larger-than-average head, which can cause trouble for female Dogues during the birthing process. Veterinary assistance should usually be secured if you plan to breed your Dogues de Bordeaux--the breed has a fairly high litter size, but problems with birthing (and with the extremely large dogs accidentally crushing or smothering their litters) can reduce this very quickly.
Grooming

Grooming the Dogue de Bordeaux is easy if you have the right tools for the job. Dogues have extremely short coats and can't be brushed or combed using the same instruments as one would use for longer-haired breeds. (The upside is that the Dogue's short coat is obvious not very prone to tangles and mats.) An occasional rubdown with a grooming glove designed for short-haired dogs will help to remove dead hair or skin from the Dogue's body, which will promote its overall health (and alleviate some of the problems associated with shedding season.) One specific challenge when grooming the Dogue de Bordeaux is the problem of its wrinkled face. It's important to bathe the Dogue on a regular basis--or simply to wash its face--in order to clear out any dirt that may be trapped in the folds. This will help to prevent any skin infections or irritations and keep the Dogue healthy. Regular washing will also help to accustom your Dogue to this, and will prevent any struggling or other disobedience during the grooming process--after all, the dogs almost invariably way much more than one hundred pounds after adulthood, and you'll want to keep any struggling to a minimum for your own sake.
Exercise

Although one wouldn't necessarily think it (given the Dogue's massive size), the Dogue de Bordeaux doesn't require a great deal of exercise in order to stay healthy. Quite the reverse is true, in fact--too much exercise during the dog's first year of life can result in underdeveloped or overstressed bones and muscles, which can result in severe health problems (or even in early mortality.) So it's wise to restrict the Dogue de Bordeaux's exercise during its early years, only

playing with the dog for perhaps an hour a day. The energy level of the Dogue de Bordeaux is low when compared with its potential power and strength, and this should be respected when exercising even adult Dogues. One or two walks (or more) per day should be considered a given, but can for older dogs also often be considered sufficient. Giving the Dogue free reign to run and play is also a good idea if you have the space for it. If you do give the Dogue free reign at any point during outdoor exercise, it's important to be careful to look out for other dogs or other threatening animals in the vicinity--although the Dogue de Bordeaux is slow to anger, it has a reputation (and a genetic history) as an extremely fearsome and dangerous fighter, and you certainly don't want to put that reputation to the test with someone's helpless pet. As a rule, the Dogue de Bordeaux won't fight animals that it perceives as smaller or weaker than it, but it equally won't hesitate to fight larger dogs or even other Dogues. (Fortunately for you, not many animals that you're likely to see in a suburban or even lightly-populated rural area are going to be much larger or stronger than your own Dogue de Bordeaux.)
Training

You'll need to train your Dogue de Bordeaux extremely well for one simple reason: a male adult Dogue de Bordeaux can easily weigh upwards of one hundred and fifty pounds. This limits the amount of control anyone can have over a dog! Surprisingly (given the Dogue's size and strength), active physical training should be kept to a minimum until the Dogue reaches adulthood at about one year. This is for a practical reason: all large dogs are especially susceptible to joint problems (hip dysplasia in particular), and the more active a large dog is in its youth, the more likely its skeleton is to develop problems in its adulthood. So it's wise to focus the young Dogue de Bordeaux's training on more basic commands (heel, sit, and the like), and only later to introduce more complex tricks or other athletic training. Positive methods should generally be relied on when training the Dogue de Bordeaux (or any breed of dog), but a few negative methods can be effective for curbing the Dogue's natural enthusiasm. The Dogue thrives on human companionship and tends to view being left alone as a punishment for bad behavior. If you feel that your Dogue is not responding well to training and continuing in extremely undesirable patterns of behavior, you can simply leave the Dogue on its own for some space of time. Ideally you should do this in a place without many breakable objects or targets for vengeful destruction, but the Dogue de Bordeaux's sense of honor and shame will most likely prevent it from causing any havoc in your absence, and with any luck the old negative behavior pattern will be significantly less strong as a result. More excitable negative methods, however--in particular shouting or striking the dog--should definitely be kept out of your training repertoire. While the Dogue de Bordeaux is as a rule a fairly calm breed, its instinctual history of fighting and protection can come into play very quickly when the dog feels threatened--and with the dog weighing in at more than one hundred

pounds, this can lead to serious problems for you. Loyalty will more than likely keep the dog from actually harming you, but negative methods will cause the dog to lose a great deal of its respect and sense of authority, two things which are vital to any successful training effort. Instead, remain calm and consistent in training, relying on positive methods far more often than negative, in order to see results. And remember to be patient--although the Dogue de Bordeaux is intelligent, its fairly low energy level may make it unwilling to devote long periods of time during a single training session to master a command or trick. So training sessions should be kept short--perhaps an hour at most-and should if at all possible dovetail into general play, exercise, and companionship in order to keep the dog's attention and to create bonds of respect and affection. Even with these shorter training sessions and this lower energy level, the Dogue de Bordeaux will eventually catch on and be willing to obey.

English Bulldogs
Aliases: Bulldog, British Bulldog
Life Span:8-10 years Litter Size:4-5 puppies Group:Mastiff, AKC Non-Sporting Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:red, fawn, brindle, white, piebald, yellow or any combination of colors. Solid black color is not considered acceptable in the breed. Hair Length:Short Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:12-16 inches (31-40 cm) with shorter dogs preferred Male Weight:53-55 pounds (24-25kg) Female Height:12-16 inches (31-40 cm) with shorter dogs preferred Female Weight:49-51 pounds (22-23kg) Living Area:Indoors, good in apartments and small spaces.

Description

It is hard to mistake the classic image of the English Bulldog. This square and stout looking dog is very wide and broad, giving the appearance of power and strength even though it is not very tall. The overall impression when looking at an English Bulldog is one of power and dignity, along with maturity and sensibility. The face of the English Bulldog is just as distinctive as its body. The face is brachiocephalic, which means that the muzzle is very short and compressed. The lower jaw is noticeably undershot, and longer than the upper jaw and nose. The lips of the upper jaw hang down below the lower jaw, and are loose to the mouth. The cheeks are very noticeable, and are obvious when viewed from the front as well as the side. The eyes are round and set well off the center of the face. They are always dark in color, and lighter colored eyes are not characteristic of the breed. The ears are very small and thin, held close to the head. A rose type fold in the ears is most desirable. The skull is broad and wide, and should never appear narrow. The forehead and skull area should be covered with deep folds of skin, forming large "wrinkles" across the forehead area. The neck of the English Bulldog will be thick and massive, matching the base of the broad skull. The short neck flows into heavyset front shoulders that are slightly sloped outwards. The front legs should be thick and well boned, while appearing proportional and muscular. The elbows should be loose from the body of the dog, and the feet may be slightly turned out when viewed from the front. The chest is deep and significant, moving in to a well-developed rib cage. The topline of the body is considered a "wheel-back" - often mistakenly called a "roach-back". This means that the center of the back is slightly higher than either the shoulders or the tail. The hindquarters are very substantial and balanced-looking. The hind feet will turn out slightly and the hocks will turn in slightly. The hind legs are longer than the front legs, but are in proportion. The tail is either short and straight, or short and somewhat kinked or bent in appearance. The tail will be wide, and the base and will taper to a fine point that is always held lower than the broad base of the tail. The coat is very fine and short, and is the same length across the entire body. There may be folds of skin on the neck and around the tail. The breed is also known for its distinctive dewlaps under the jaw.
Coat Description

The English Bulldog has a very short, fine and smooth coat that is of uniform length on the body. This breed has no furnishings on the legs, belly or chest area but folds in the skin on the head, around the tail and on the chest are desired.
History

The English Bulldog has a rather disturbing history, as it was originally bred from the Asiatic Mastiff for its aggressiveness in baiting bulls and bears in ancient times. It was in the year 1209

that bull baiting, or having a dog grab onto the bull by the nose and hold on until the bull was killed, was first introduced in England. The Bulldog was bred to be a ferocious dog, that would hold on to the bull's nose despite the pain that the bull would inflict on the dog. In 1835 the terrible "sport" was outlawed and owners of the Bulldogs tried to use the breed to fight in dogfights, but thankfully they did not fare well in this venue. Through the concentrated effort of dog lovers in the United Kingdom, the English Bulldog was bred to maintain their body shape and size, but remove the aggressiveness and replace it with the qualities of an excellent companion dog.
Temperament

The English Bulldog is a very serious, devoted and loyal breed of dog. They are a very attentionseeking dog and are not considered appropriate for homes where they would be left alone for extended periods of time. The English Bulldog has been bred as a companion dog, and really does desire and require constant attention from its owners. The breed is typically a very calm and well-behaved dog, although they are considered a dominant breed and must learn that the humans are in charge in the household. The English Bulldog will bond very strongly with its family, and often has difficulty in re-homing after that bond has been established. The English Bulldog loves to please, and will quickly learn what the owners are requiring of it. Highly intelligent, they do best with some repetitive training but also lots of variation. They are an excellent companion dog for both other dogs as well as non-canine pets. Proper socialization is important with this breed, as they can be somewhat dog-aggressive, especially the intact males. Neutering and training, as well as constant interaction with other dogs, can prevent this from becoming problematic. Most English Bulldogs make wonderful pets for families with younger or older children, and the breed has a natural patience with children and the elderly. A slow moving breed, they are not ideal for kids that want a pet that is running with them all day, but they are very loyal, loving and protective of children. The English Bulldog has a unique temperament. People can mistake their often slow response to commands as laziness, but those that know the Bulldog breed know that the dogs like to consider the command before simply jumping up and doing it. A problem solver, the Bulldog likes a mental challenge, and will approach new activities and events in a thoughtful and consistent manner. They are very good travelers, and typically love to go for a ride in the car. The English Bulldog is a natural protector of the home and property. While not a problem barker, they will let you know when strangers approach. Their appearance is often enough to warn off intruders, but the Bulldog will use its strength to defend its property if required. Potential owners of English Bulldogs should know that the breed is prone to digestive problems, resulting in some flatulence issues. Controlling the diet can eliminate this issue to a large extent. They are also a snoring breed, and are prone to drooling.

Health Problems

The English Bulldog does have several Health concerns that owners should be aware of. As with most breeds, buying from a reputable breeder will eliminate most of the worries associated with any possible health conditions of the breed. The major health issues include hip and elbow dysplasia, stenotic nares, internalized tail and eye problems such as Cherry Eye, Entropion and ectropion and KCS or dry eye. In addition, the breed may have respiratory problems and an elongated soft palate, which will result in obstruction of the airways and leading to breathing difficulties. The skin is prone to infections, but this can easily be managed with proper Grooming and regular cleaning of the skin folds. The English Bulldog will usually require assistance with whelping, and frequently puppies are delivered by cesarean section because of their broad heads. It is very important to closely monitor a Bulldog whenever anesthesia is being used, as they can easily have significant and serious respiratory complications.
Grooming

The short and very smooth coat of the English Bulldog is very easy to care for on a regular basis. A stiff bristle brush is all that is needed to gently groom the dog two or three times per week. It is important to keep the skin folds on the face, neck and tail carefully cleaned with a damp cloth to remove any debris and dead hair that may become trapped. This debris can cause irritations, leading to lesions and other infections in the folds of the skin. When cleaning the folds, be sure to wipe first with a slightly damp cloth then follow with a soft towel or dry cloth. Never leave the folds wet or use any type of soap or cleanser, as this can cause irritations and potential allergic reactions. The English Bulldog should only be bathed when required, and never frequently. Bathing too often will dry out the skin and can lead to itchy, flaky and irritated skin. A soft, damp cloth can be used to gently and easily wipe down the dog should he or she become muddy or dirty. Check the nails regularly, and clip to keep them short and free from splinters or sharp points. The teeth can routinely be brushed using a finger sleeve or dog toothbrush and toothpaste. The English Bulldog is considered an average shedder, and does not shed seasonally.
Exercise

The Bulldog, while square and rather squat, is still a very active dog when provided with regular exercise. Since they are prone to rapid weight gain and some obesity, regular walks and opportunities to get out and about are very important with this breed. Naturally very sedate, an English Bulldog is not good at self-exercising, and may need some prompting to move about and exercise. They are fast for their size and shape over short distances, and many English Bulldogs will play and romp for short periods with other dogs given the opportunity. They are equally accepting of longer, more sedate walks. An English Bulldog should never be exercised in very hot or cold

conditions. In cold conditions, the Bulldog's short coat will provide little if any protection to the temperatures, and in hot conditions their brachiocephalic or short muzzle head formation will lead to overheating and heatstroke very quickly. Only exercise in the coolest times of the summer months, and provide lots of shade and water for these dogs if they are being left outdoors. While not a playful breed when full grown, they are very playful as puppies. Some of the adult Bulldogs retain a more playful attitude even as they mature, but this is not considered typical of the breed.
Training

The English Bulldog requires an owner that understands how to work with a dominant breed of dog. This is critical, as owners that don't understand how to positively and appropriately teach the dog that they are not the boss will soon have a dog that simply does what he or she wants, rather than listening and obeying commands. The owner must establish that he or she is the "alpha dog" or leader in positive and gentle ways, without punishing or harshly treating the dog. A Bulldog is very sensitive to punishment, and will rarely be intentionally disobedient once they have outgrown their puppy stage. Occasionally some Bulldogs will be stubborn and difficult to train, and a puppy obedience class is highly recommended for the breed. An English Bulldog is a very intelligent breed and is a thoughtful dog, not typically jumping into new situations or activities without giving them some consideration. Since the older the Bulldog gets the slower it tends to move, it is important to keep in mind that this dog will take a few seconds or more to respond to a command. In addition, the Bulldog likes to contemplate his or her options before jumping up to respond to a command. They are not a dog that does something on the spur of the moment; rather they seem to study the situation before deciding what action to take. A Bulldog does best with repetitive training in very short time frames, rather than one long training session. Typically, they love to please their owners, and will work very well for praise as well as treats and rewards. Limit food rewards, as the breed has a tendency for rapid weight gain. A well-trained and well-socialized English Bulldog is an excellent companion dog. The natural protective instincts of the breed mean that they require little training to become expert watchdogs. Typically the English Bulldog has few destructive behaviors, although chewing can occasionally become a problem if they are not provided enough attention. They can be somewhat dog-aggressive with strange dogs, so ensure proper socialization at an early age. Most English Bulldogs get along well with cats and other pets, and socialization will increase these positive attributes as well.

English Cocker Spaniels

Aliases: Cocker Spaniel, Cocker, Merry Cocker
Life Span:12-15 years. This breed is very healthy. Most Cocker Spaniels die of old age (40%) and cancer in old age (22%).

Litter Size:1-4 puppies. Group:Gun Dog/ AKC Sporting Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:There are various colors of Cocker Spaniel. Many hunters have favored white cocker spaniels because they are easier to see in the field. However, white spaniels are not used in the show ring. There are also parti-colors, which are either ticked or roaned. These are white with black, liver, or red. Hair Length:Medium, Short Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:15-17 inches Male Weight:28-34 pounds Female Height:14-16 inches Female Weight:26-32 pounds Living Area:The Cocker Spaniel makes a good indoor dog, but they do need a place to exercise. They will make great walking or running companions or will be happy with a romp in the yard. They may be prone to hunting birds and small animals in your yard. If you're an apartment dweller be certain to get a show line of dog, as you'll not be able to provide sufficient exercise for a field dog.
Description

The English Cocker Spaniel is a breed of gun dog, and is one of several varieties of spaniel. These dogs look very much like the American Cocker Spaniel, but they look more like a Field Spaniel or Springer Spaniel than the American Cocker. In the UK, where this dog originated, they are typically referred to as the "Merry Cocker" because of their happy dispositions. Today, they are quite popular as pets because of their nature, and they are used as show dogs, too. They are small, but not delicate, as they were bred for rough terrain and hunting. The Cocker is a sturdy dog with softly contoured angles. They are dignified and intelligent looking with medium sized slightly oval eyes that are set wide apart. Their eyes are dark brown in color. Their ears are set low and lie close to the head. When extended their ears reach their nose. Their ears are covered with silky, wavy and slightly long hair. Their skulls are arched ad slightly flattened. Their muzzles are equal in length to their skulls and they have very strong jaws, designed for carrying game. They have strong teeth that meet in a scissors bite.

The Cocker's neck is graceful and well muscled, neither too short nor too long. Their back slopes very slightly toward a rounded croup. Their tails are typically docked and are carried horizontally. Field dogs typically have their tails docked to 4 or 5 inches in length, while show dogs' tails are docked shorter. The Cocker's tail is one of their characteristics; it is in constant motion when they are hunting. The Cocker's legs are straight with catlike feet that are proportionate in size to the leg. The Cocker is designed for hunting in thick terrain, and their gait is driven to support this activity. They are not particularly fast runners, but can get through any type of terrain without intense effort. There are two lines of English Cocker Spaniel; the field line and the show line. Field lines are bred for hunting and often have physical characteristics that make them unable to compete in the show ring. For example, field dogs are bred to have shorter ears and a shorter coat to make them lower maintenance. Show dogs are expected to have very long ears and the long coat, which is considered more attractive. In addition, field dogs are bred to be more active and athletic, possessing great endurance. In the US today, most Cocker Spaniels are purchased to be companions rather than hunting dogs. The American Cocker Spaniel is the second most registered dog with the AKC. The English Cocker Spaniel is not as popular in the US, but is one of the most popular companion dogs in England.
Coat Description

The Cocker Spaniel's coat is short and fine around the head, and is medium length on the body. The body hair is sometimes slightly wavy and the coat is very silky. They are well feathered, and sometimes need to be trimmed. However, the dog should have a natural appearance, so severe trimming is not recommended. There are also solid Cockers in black, liver and red. There are also black and tans, liver and tans, which are actually considered solid colors. Solid color dogs will occasionally have some white markings, though in the show ring, white feet are highly undesired.
History

Evidence of the spaniel goes back as far as 1300. At some point, they became divided into two types: land spaniels and water spaniels. But, it wasn't until 1800 that the spaniels were divided into seven separate breeds: the Welsh Springer, English Springer, Sussex, Clumber, Field, Irish Water and Cocker. You'll also hear of the Devonshire Cocker. Essentially, any spaniel weighing less than 25 pounds was considered a Cocker during this time. All of these breeds began from a Spaniel sort of dog that came to England centuries ago, and the breeds were developed from there. Spaniels were used only as hunting dogs for many years. However, during the early years, the spaniels were not used to retrieve the game. Rather they were used to drive the game toward the

guns. In these days, puppies that did not prove to be up to the hunting challenge were often killed, as they were not considered to be companion or show dogs. In 1885, however the Spaniel Club was formed in England, and the dogs began to be used for show, with both the Springer and the Cocker in the same category. Until 1892, Springer Spaniels and Cocker Spaniels were considered basically the same breed, with the only difference being size. In 1892, the Kennel Club of England recognized them as separate breeds. From this point on, different traits were bred into the two different breeds, and today the Springer and the Cocker differ in many ways in addition to size. In the 1940s, the American Kennel Club began to recognize the English Cocker Spaniel as a separate breed from the American Cocker Spaniel. These dogs are quite similar, but do have some differing physical characteristics, particularly around the face and muzzle. In addition, the English Cocker Spaniel is larger than the American Cocker. In temperament, however, they are largely identical. Cocker Spaniels were bred to hunt. Their smaller size made them easy to transport and the perfect size for bird hunting. In fact, the name Cocker Spaniel comes from the woodcock, the bird this dog originally hunted in old England. They were prized as hunting dogs because of their impeccable retrieving capabilities, their ability to handle rough terrain and their energy and endurance.
Temperament

The Cocker Spaniel is a happy and easy to please. They are affectionate and make great companions as well as very good hunting dogs. When used for hunting, they are very hard working dogs; they seem never to tire of the hunt. They are playful and engaging with their families, making great companions both to large families and singles as well. However, in a family, they will most likely bond most closely to one person. Cocker Spaniels love children and make great pets for them because they are playful yet patient. However, this dog does not like to be teased, so children should be taught how to interact with this, or any other dog. They are also Cocker Spaniels are typically friendly to strangers, and are just moderate barkers. This is not a dog typically chosen as a watchdog, though they will alert you to visitors. Temperament among the Cocker Spaniel can vary somewhat, particularly when it comes to their shyness. Most lines are very gregarious, but there are some lines of Cockers that can be a bit timid. In addition, females tend to be more dominant and more stubborn than males. Field lines of Cocker Spaniels are very active dogs. If you're choosing a dog solely for a family pet, particularly one that will spend most of its time indoors, don't choose a field line dog.

Health Problems

Overall, Cocker Spaniels are a very healthy breed of dog. Cocker Spaniels are prone to Ear infections, and should be routinely checked for this problem. Once infections are detected, simple drops from the veterinarian should do the trick but left untreated, they can cause Deafness. They can also develop skin Allergies, which will require special treatment and shampoos. They also often develop Cataracts in their old age.
Grooming

The Cocker Spaniel requires regular combing and brushing, as their texture makes them particularly prone to matting and tangling. They'll likely need to be bathed a bit more often than some other breeds, too. They are average shedders and will need to have the hair around the pads of their feet trimmed regularly. As with other spaniel breeds, ears must be carefully attended to in the Cocker Spaniel. Because they are low hanging, they are prone to ear wax and infections. In addition, they can attract burrs and ticks, which, un-attended can cause deafness. Clean and check your dog's ears regularly, and be certain to check the bottoms of the ears for ticks and burrs after he has been outdoors playing.
Exercise

Most Cocker Spaniels can handle as much exercise as you can provide. Particularly when outdoors, they are tireless. This is a great breed to consider for agility or other competitive dog activities, as they love the excitement and the exercise. They are excellent at tracking and retrieving activities as well as agility, and of course they make great hunters. Before you purchase this breed, you must be committed to providing them some sort of daily exercise, whether it's a walk in the park or a romp in the yard.
Training

Cocker Spaniels are intelligent working dogs, and their temperaments incline them to be obedient and loyal. Once in a while, particularly if you own a female, you'll find a cocker who is very stubborn, but generally, they are quick to recognize you as the boss and to obey your command willingly. Cockers who are field dogs are especially quick to bond and obey with a master who takes them on the hunt, as they seem to know instinctively how this relationship is supposed to work. Cockers, like all dogs, need firm obedience training until they understand that you are the alpha dog. However, once this is established, you'll find the Cocker Spaniel to be very intelligent and easy to train. In fact, this breed is one of the best at competitive obedience training. They can be sensitive, so don't make your corrections too harsh when training. Firmness, patience and consistency will work best when training a cocker.

Once you've mastered basic obedience training, this is a great breed to train for more complicated activities. They love to do tricks and can be trained for nearly any competitive dog activity. Since they were bred to be a working dog, they will appreciate having a purpose in life beyond being a companion. Hunting spaniels are some of the best trained dogs in the world. They are amazing in their ability to work alongside their master, seeking direction and often responding just to hand signals. They have an uncanny ability to locate and flush out birds, as well as to locate them and retrieve them after they have fallen. Watching a Cocker Spaniel at work in the field is a joy, as they so obviously love the hunt and are so instinctively good at it. Cocker Spaniels that are used for hunting are expected to master the following skills: Hup-Sit and Stay. This command is basic obedience of course, but is used extensively in the field to allow the hunter to catch up to the dog. Retrieve to hand-The dog is trained to retrieve the bird and hold it in its mouth until the hunter requests that it be given to him. Quarter-The dogs work in a pattern in front of the hunter when seeking out birds. The dog must stay close enough to the hunter to be in shooting distance, so that they don't flush out birds that are too far away to be hit. Hand Signals-During hunting, the dog will be given hand signals for direction by the hunter. This helps keep the area quiet when hunting. Steady-This command means that the dog must sit when a bird rises or a gun is fired. This helps him mark the fall of the bird and avoid flushing other birds when pursuing a missed bird.

English Foxhounds
Aliases: English Foxhound, Foxhound
Life Span:10-13 years. Litter Size:5 to 7 puppies per average litter. Group:Hounds, Scenthounds

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Usually a combination of black, white, and tan in a tri-color coat, but can also be white with another color, like orange, yellow, etc.

Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:22-25 inches (56-63 cm.) Male Weight:65-70 pounds (29-32 kg.) Female Height:21-24 inches (53-61 cm.) Female Weight:65-70 pounds (29-32 kg.) Living Area:As it can be expected, the English Foxhound is not a dog that likes to be kept indoors for long periods of time. Not recommended for apartment life, this dog breed needs to have a lot of space to run around with all of its excess energy. You will want to have a large yard or a large green space that will help this dog use their natural activity levels. This is a dog breed that wants to run around as much as possible, so you will need a large space that this dog can access easily.
Description

The English Foxhound is a dog breed with earnest eyes that just seem to connect with yours as soon as you come upon it. Intelligent and able, the English Foxhound is a dog that's easily identifiable. Athletic looking, this dog breed has a clean look that has a wide skull and a long muzzle. The strong hindquarters and the long neck allow this breed to look graceful and strong at the same time. But this only makes sense as they are hunting dogs by nature. The shoulders of the English Foxhound are long and should be covered in muscle. And the way the shoulders lead into the rest of the body should be sloped, but also not heavy at the same time. The bottom edges of their ears are generally rounded in order to prevent problems in the hunt itself. Problems like cuts and nicks can be avoided with this new shape. The paws are almost cat like in nature and are extended from the long and straight legs. And their tail is held up most of the time. The eyes are large and brown and the ears are in a pendant shape. The English Foxhound breeds that are made for shows will be slightly larger than the ones that are brought into a home to be pets. An active breed, the English Foxhound is a hunter by nature, these are dogs that want to be obedient to a master or an owner as well as to be loved by the family around them. Training this dog can be difficult, but it's well worth the effort and creates a loving relationship between owner and dog.

Coat Description

The English Foxhound has a short and hard coat that is easy to maintain. This coat is light, so extremes in temperatures will not be tolerated well. There are a number of colors (listed below) that the English Foxhound can have.
History

The English Foxhound actually originated from the breeding of various hounds and then continued with the intermixing of the Bulldog, the Greyhound, and the Fox Terrier to finally produce today's breed. Originally used in pack hunts by British Masters, the English Foxhound has a great nose for hunting as well as the stamina to keep up on longer hunts. Their speed helps them catch the things they hunt and they are passionate about finding what they are told to seek as well as everything else. Considered to be the rarest breed in the United States. According to the American Kennel Club, there are only 17 registered at the present time.
Temperament

As a natural hunter, the English Foxhound is inherently active and passionate about things around it. This is a dog that wants to move around and learn new things. The English Foxhound is simply a dog that has been hunting and searching for new things its entire life, and continues to want to do that. This curiosity can make the English Foxhound a bit harder to train. You have to interact a lot with a English Foxhound in order to appease its nature. This is a dog breed that does not tire out easily. They will run and run and run until they fall over before they decide to actually stop whatever they are doing. Their impressive ability to run for hours without changing their pace can be tired for a less active owner, but those that are already active will have found their match in this energetic breed. Friendly around children and most people, the English Foxhound are an enjoyable breed to have in a family setting. These are dogs that aren't going to bark at someone they don't know, instead they will want to nose around them to see what this person is all about. Just like so many other dogs, they will need to be around people and children as puppies to maintain their sense of comfort. In this friendly nature, it would seem like the English Foxhound is someone that would be more comfortable around people than other dogs, but it is the opposite case for this particular breed. This is a dog that's quite comfortable, if not more so, with other dogs as well as other animals. Again, this might be a part of their natural hunting instinct and being around animals more often than they are around humans in their lifetime. What you might want to consider is that if you want a English Foxhound as a household pet, you will want to choose the show lines as they are not as active as the field lines-and this is much

better in that smaller and more confined settings. Most of their energy is used up in their youth, making those English Foxhound dogs that have hunted can be retired when they are only seven or eight years of age.
Health Problems

Generally a quite healthy breed, the English Foxhound does have some issues that you might want to become aware of: Chronic hip dysplasia-As with many dogs, the wearing down of the hip joint is a common problem for the English Foxhound. This condition occurs over time, often showing up as problems with mobility and with pain. Often, this condition can be remedied with Exercise, pain medications, and sometimes surgery. Renal disease-Just as in humans, the English Foxhound can have troubles with processing wastes that run through the body. Renal dysfunction can keep wastes in the bloodstream, building up to unhealthy and often fatal levels. The inability to process these wastes may be remedied by medications and sometimes surgery. Epilepsy-The English Foxhound is also sometimes prone to Epilepsy, which is a seizure disorder that originates in the brain. Though there isn't a cure for this disorder, it can often be managed with medications and with constant monitoring by a vet that's trained in brain disorders. Eye concerns-There are some problems with vision and eye disorders in the English Foxhound.
Grooming

The English Foxhound has a short hard coat of fur that is easy to maintain. Perfect for those who don't want to spend a lot of time grooming, this dog breed only requires regular care with a firm bristle brush on a weekly basis. Not only will this give their coats a nice glossy shine, but it will also allow you to prevent major problems with this average shedding breed. The more loose fur you remove during the brushing action, the less fur you will have around your home and on your furniture and clothing. In addition, you don't need to bathe a English Foxhound unless they have gotten into a particularly dirty mess. And in that case, you will want to shampoo your dog to make sure they are healthy and clean of any dirt or other grime. Regular grooming allows you to also make sure your dog isn't in the midst of a dangerous infection. When an English Foxhound is properly bathed and they still smell badly, that can be a sign of a bacterial infection. Check with your vet to see whether your dog has something else that might be wrong. They will check the dog's teeth, mouth, ears, and nose to see what might be going on. You will also want to check the skin of your English Foxhound often to be sure they haven't

picked up any ticks or fleas in their outdoor adventures. And since this is a particularly adventurous dog, you will also want to check to be sure they haven't scratched themselves along the way. Even the smallest of cuts can turn into something more serious if not monitored. If a cut should look deep or infected, just talk to your vet.
Exercise

With all of their energy, the English Foxhound needs to have plenty of time for exercise and running around. To maintain its health and its body structure, this dog breed will want to have plenty of time to exercise as often as possible, in fact. If you are unable to provide them with this time, this may not be a good fit for you as a dog owner. This is a dog breed that wants to run around as much as possible, so you will want to take this dog out for long runs whenever possible. If you are the kind of person that likes to go for runs, this might be something you can train your English Foxhound to come along with you. However, they can be troublesome if they find something to chase after or they smell a scent that they find interesting. To help curb these chasing behaviors, you will want to always have your English Foxhound on a leash until you know they are in an area where they will be safe. Exercise needs to be consistent and constant as the English Foxhound that does not get a chance to run around will become destructive. Try plan regular times for you and your dog to play together. At least an hour a day will be sufficient will help you interact and to allow your dog to maintain a high level of health.
Training

What you need to realize right from the start is the English Foxhound is an athlete by nature and wants to work on those qualities in a training scenario. They want to run and to hunt and to be successful in what they do but all in an active way. Sometimes it can be confusing to watch this particular breed because they can seem to be calm and docile before launching into a full out sprint to something that your eyes can not see. In order to control this type of dog, you will need to assert your authority. The English Foxhound has a strong idea of what a pack order is and looks to you to establish your position in it. If you are unable or unwilling to become the authority for this dog, you will have trouble training it as it will not look up to you for guidance. If this dog doesn't feel like you are in control, it may not trust your commands or feel they should be enforced. To assert your authority, you will need to be consistent in your training skills as well as consistent in punishments and rewards. This will show that you are looking out for the dog as well as that you are outlining the 'right' and the 'wrong' for the dog in your eyes. But another thing to keep in mind is that the English Foxhound really wants to have fun during training times. This might be a good time to engage the natural hunting abilities of this dog by having 'hunts' or taking this dog on actual hunts if they are still able to keep up. You need to have the creativity to keep training sessions fun for your dog and if you do not, the English Foxhound

will hate the training sessions, making them unproductive and ineffective. This will require a lot of energy on your part to keep up, but once the English Foxhound is trained, they are more than happy to listen to commands from their authority figure(s). Another thing to consider about the English Foxhound is that it is not a naturally focused dog that will necessarily give you all of their attention naturally. This hound likes to run after things it finds interesting, so it can become distracted quite easily. You will need to keep this breed on task, though once you've established your relationship; this dog will look to please you at every turn.

English Setters
Aliases: Laverack Setter, Llewellyn Setter
Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:6 puppies Group:Gun Dog, Sporting Dog (AKC) Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:White with overlay markings in the following colors: Orange, Blue, Liver, Lemon, Tricolor (Blue/Tan/White). Hair Length:Medium Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24-27 in (61-69 cm) Male Weight:55-80 lbs (25-36 kg) Female Height:23-26 in (58-66 cm) Female Weight:40-70 lbs (20-32 kg) Living Area:English Setters need lots of room in which to exercise and run. The ideal living situation for an English Setter gives you and your dog access to large, fenced-in outdoor areas, preferably in a rural or sparsely-populated suburban setting. Urban or more densely-populated suburban areas can still support an English Setter adequately with some ingenuity and with some

willingness to seriously exercise your dog. English Setters can be kept indoors with no problems.
Description

The English Setter was bred for elegance. The dogs are lean, with powerful chests sloping back to the smooth, tense lines of legs and feet, the ready tail, and the powerful muscles. An extra splash of feathering on the Setter's smooth coat and a distinctive "belton" bi-colored (or tricolored coat) just adds an extra touch of visibility and an extra touch of class to these already aristocratic, sleek, and intelligent dogs. Dog breeders for years have known this--and the Setter's habitual prey knows it as well. The Setter's hunting method entirely depends on its visibility and its powerful bearing--the Setter was bred to stalk its prey through heavy undergrowth, to mesmerize it with its "hypnotic" eyes and elegant appearance, and then to make itself visible to its master so that the hunt could be successful. Thus the Setter has been bred for intelligence as well as elegance, making the dog both beautiful and capable of acting independently in order to achieve its goals.
Coat Description

The English Setter's coat is flat, straight, and medium-length, which makes the structure of the dog's underlying gaunt body visible. The coat is feathered at various points, most prominently at the ears, tail, and legs.
History

The tradition of "setting" dogs began with a single type of Spanish Spaniel at some point in the 1300s (according to written records of the time.) The Spanish Spaniel would track birds through the undergrowth, find them, and then lie down in a "pointing" position, allowing the hunter to throw a large net over the area (including the dog itself!) in order to trap flushed birds on their attempt to escape. However, as useful as a net is for hunting purposes, a rifled gun is more useful still--and the old Spaniel "pointers" were becoming quickly obsolete as gun hunting became more common in the early 19th century. Thanks to the efforts of two gentleman breeders--Laverack and Llewellyn, who lend their names to the two variants of the general English Setter--the modern upright setter was created through selective breeding. The Laverack Setter was created more for attractiveness and genetic purity, making the Laverack variant of the English Setter breed more common in show rings, while the Llewellyn Setter was created more for simple hunting efficiency and power, making the Llewellyn variant of the English Setter more common in the open country, staring down a fat grouse and waiting for his master to arrive with the rifle and the reward.
Temperament

The English Setter is an energetic, outdoorsy dog whose greatest joy is simply to expend its energy. Any Setter owner will need to have a large, fenced yard (or other adequate outdoor

space) and the willingness to spend hours every day walking, jogging with, and otherwise exercising the English Setter. Enough exercise outdoors will help to keep the Setter calm and relaxed indoors--which is good, since the Setter's native companionableness make it an ideal indoor pet (if you can keep up with the grooming.) This native companionableness may seem surprising, considering the Setter's independent hunting style. But the Setter is one of the more friendly and needy dogs out there when it comes to human beings. English Setters can't be left alone for too long without becoming destructive, and any withdrawal of affection--including harsh language--can seriously upset the English Setter. If affection is given, though, the English Setter can be a funny, energetic, and engaging companion, noted for its "clownish" demeanor. Setters are extremely good with children. They are not quite so good with other animals, and old hunting instincts can sometimes take over. It's important to train your Setter early in order to socialize it to other household pets, and to help make your Setter more manageable during outdoor exercise.
Health Problems

The English Setter can be affected by a number of Health Problems, including:

hip dysplasia (common in larger breeds of dog; avoid strenuous Exercise early in life and see a veterinarian regularly)

elbow dysplasia Hypothyroidism

Congenital Deafness (puppies can be tested for this at about five weeks of age) In addition, all members of the breed are susceptible to certain cancers and skin diseases. Most of these ailments are genetic, and selecting an English Setter puppy carefully from reliable breeders (or another reliable source) will sharply minimize the risk for your dog. Grooming

The English Setter's outdoor, active lifestyle alone would make regular grooming of the breed a good idea--the fact that the English Setter couples that active lifestyle with a feathery coat that's highly prone to tangles, burrs, and matting makes regular grooming of the breed vital. The Setter should be combed and brushed daily, with special attention paid to the feathery portions of the dog's coat near the legs and tail. This daily grooming ritual isn't just for vanity's

sake--many of the skin problems common to English Setters are actually caused by outdoor debris (burrs, leaves, or dry brush) working its way up through the dog's fur and close to its actual skin. Once the debris is trapped against the dog's skin, it begins to irritate your English Setter and possibly to cause damage to his or her coat. So daily brushing doesn't just make your dog look good, but it actually keeps him or her healthy for a long time--which is good for everyone, not simply your dog's pride. Shampooing and bathing should be done at least twice a week--more frequently if you plan to show or breed your dog. The feathery bits of fur around the dog's feet also need regular grooming in order to keep the feet free of any infections--which can happen easily due to the feathery fur picking up bits of debris from the outdoors which then works its way between the toes. The Setter's toenails should also be clipped regularly--whenever you give your Setter his or her regular bath, the toenails and the feet should be handled as well. One important health consideration when grooming your Setter is to keep an eye out for fleas, mites, ticks, or other external parasites. Because of the Setter's outdoor lifestyle and feathery coat, parasites can be easily picked up--and can sometimes be hard to detect until it's too late. These parasites aren't merely a nuisance, but also cause significant damage to your dog's coat, sometimes drying it out or even patching it in places. So any good grooming session will involve a careful search for mites and fleas, focusing again on these feathery areas and around the dog's head near the ears-a classic "breeding ground" for parasites. Ears and other parasite areas should be checked about once a week, ideally during the dog's regular bath.
Exercise

English Setters are extremely active dogs, and regular, vigorous exercise is required in order to keep them happy and healthy. The bare minimum for exercising your English Setter is two or three half-hour walks or runs per day, preferably with some running or other energetic play involved. Setters should be exercised off the leash if possible. Setters have an abundance of energy and will want to let it out as quickly as possible--which, if you're not careful, could involve them dragging you along after every squirrel or bird they see in the yard. A fenced yard is ideal for this kind of exercise, especially if you can keep it reasonably free of interloping animals (although your Setter will likely do this for you.) Outdoor hikes or camping trips are also ideal for an English Setter--the location is usually remote enough to keep the Setter from being a nuisance, while the outdoor environment (and its fresh smells and sensations) are enough to keep the Setter happy and well-exercised. If you don't have a large fenced yard or if your living situation is densely-populated enough to make it unreasonable to exercise your Setter off the leash, then you'll have to get more creative. Setter owners have been known to jog with their Setters (once the dogs are well-trained enough to "heel" instinctively), to take their setters to less-well-traveled parks, or even to ride a bicycle with their Setter on the leash just ahead, keeping pace effortlessly. For this kind of urban or suburban exercise, it's a very good idea to buy a flexible leash for your Setter so that he can set his own pace without your hampering him (or him pulling you along in his furious wake), and

adequate training is a must in order to ensure good behavior when dealing with other people or animals. One caveat to these recommendations: the skeleton of any dog remains partially unformed until the dog is about two years old. For smaller dogs, this is less of an issue, but for larger, energetic dogs, great care must be taken to prevent early overexertion from causing significant bone or joint problems in later life (hip and elbow dysplasia being the most common problems.) As a rule, you should only exercise your Setter puppy for half-hour bursts until two years of age. Getting advice from a veterinarian or veteran Setter owner would also be helpful in order to figure out the best possible exercise routine for a growing dog.
Training

To understand the problems in training an English Setter, it's necessary to understand the English Setter's genetic instincts. The English Setter was bred to track small animals through the fields, to stalk them silently, to stare them down, and then simply to sit and wait for the master to arrive. In other words, the English Setter's instincts make it into an autonomous partner in the hunt--a dog who can operate independently, performing his job so that the human can perform his job and both can profit. The English Setter's instincts do not make it into a passive recipient of commands. But unless you're using your English Setter for hunting, you really do need to train your dog--any urban exercising, indoor living, or other social situations demand that you have a well-behaved, non-destructive, and socially-adapted Setter. So "to train or not to train" is not really the question; it's an obligation. What the prospective trainer needs to understand, though, is that training an English Setter can often be an onerous obligation indeed. Training should begin early and should focus, early on, on adapting the English Setter to both housebreaking rules and to other household animals. The English Setter, who spends most of his or her time outside, does not take easily to housebreaking, and you should expect to spend several months of training in this area alone. Other animals and children should also be introduced to the Setter early on, since the Setter's natural hunting instincts can easily take over with animals he or she meets in later life--although the Setter isn't violent as a rule, even when hunting, you probably don't want your dog sneaking around and mesmerizing your cat on a regular basis. Physical commands (heel, sit) and the like should be phased in once the basic areas of housebreaking and socialization are brought in. Physical commands should also be introduced slowly--since the Setter's skeleton is still developing during the early years of his or her life, toostrenuous physical activity early on can lead to serious problems with joints or bones in later years. Above all: trainers should make sure to use positive methods of reward and motivation when training this breed, not negative methods--even including harsh tones of voice. The Setter is an extremely sensitive breed, and harsh tones of voice from a Setter's master will usually cause the

dog to regress into instinctual behavior--which, as we've said, is not the most useful behavior in the world for training purposes.

English Springer Spaniels

Aliases: Earlier known as the Norfolk Spaniel.
Life Span:12 - 14 years. Litter Size:5 - 7 puppies. Group:Sporting Group or Gun Dog

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Liver and white; black and white; either of those combinations with tan markings on the eyebrows, cheeks, inside of the ears, and under the tail; and blue or liver roan. The white portions of the coat can be ticked or freckled. Field dogs are typically dominantly white, whereas show dogs are dominantly liver or black. Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:19-21 inches tall Male Weight:45-55 pounds Female Height:18-20 inches tall. Female Weight:40-50 pounds Living Area:The English Springer Spaniel is an adaptable dog and can do well living in city or rural lifestyles. They can do well in apartments, as long as they get proper exercise and mental stimulation. This breed should not be kept tied up or penned alone very long. They are prone to separation anxiety, and such time away from human contact will only lead to destruction and mental anxiety. Springers that have been left tied or penned are known to develop aggression issues.

Description

The name English Springer Spaniel has been used since 1900. The English Springer Spaniel is a hearty, medium sized dog. Their tails are usually docked in American lines, and undocked in European lines. There is a major divide in the two types of springers: the field bred or working springer, and the show or bench bred springer. Field bred springers are bred with the original purpose in mind, to hunt. There is not much room left for looks or even a standard. They are usually smaller and more compact than the show bred dog, with a much thinner, shorter, and coarse coat. The ears are smaller and less pendulous. They are dominantly white with a liver or black face and some ticking. This makes them easier to spot in the field. Field bred springers have more energy, making them more able to work. A well bred dog will be able to settle down in the home to save his energy for work, making them an excellent companion as well as a hunter. Show bred, or bench bred springers are bred to place in the conformation ring. While some are able to hunt, the majority have had most, if not all, hunting instincts bred out of them, or they are too laid back to be able to hunt efficiently. Bench bred springers are heavier and are thicker boned than field bred springers. Their coats are much longer and thicker, making them more aesthetically pleasing. They are usually dominantly black or liver, with little or no tickings. The ears should reach all the way to the top of the nose when pulled forward. Eye color depends on coat, ranging from hazel to dark brown. Yellow eyes are a fault. The tails on the show bred dog are docked shorter than the field bred.
Coat Description

The English Springer Spaniel's outer coat is of medium length, flat or wavy, and sometimes curly. The undercoat is short, dense, and soft. The ears, chest, legs, and belly are furnished with a moderate length of feathering. Colors such as lemon, red, orange, or sable, are faults and would be disqualified in a show ring.
History

The original spaniels started to appear as early as the 1600's. Springer Spaniels and Cocker Spaniels were considered the same breed until the 1800's. England started to divide the dogs into two groups. The Cocker Spaniels were considered under 25 lbs and used for woodcock, and the English Springers were considered about 45 lbs. Their purpose was to "spring" a game bird into the air, and a hawk would retrieve it. This was before guns were used. Today's springer spaniel's flush and retrieve their game. In the mid twentieth century, the English Springer Spaniel started to divide into two groups, the field and show bred dog, while still being considered the same breed.

Temperament

The typical English Springer Spaniel is a happy go-lucky and eager to please dog. They should be friendly, sociable, playful, and gentle, making them an excellent family dog. They are extremely intelligent and can learn very quickly. Although the typical springer spaniel loves children, any dog that is not socialized with them from puppy hood will not act predictably around them. Puppies should be handled by children from birth, and taught to always be gentle and easy. English Springer Spaniels are very comical dogs. They are known to entertain their owners during their play. Rolling in mud, jumping into water, chasing after birds, and giving lots of kisses are among a few activities springers enjoy. Even more known among springers, is their endless tail wag. Some even wiggle their butts when they are happy. Springers should never be shy, timid, or aggressive. During their "teen" years, they can be very testing and will want to establish dominance. The handler should have knowledge on how to remain a pack leader. NILIF, or Nothing in Life is Free training, should begin when the dog is a puppy. This means the dog must work for everything: food, toys, going outside, playing, etc. Some people believe springers are prone to something called "rage syndrome". The ESSFTA (English Springer Spaniel Field Trial Association) has maintained that this "syndrome" is an old term and not factual. Any dog has the potential to become aggressive. Proper training, mental stimulation, and good breeding, will prevent aggression in the springer spaniel.
Health Problems

The English Springer Spaniel is prone to a few genetic defects. Among those include:
hip dysplasia, an abnormality of the hip joints

Progressive Retinal Atrophy or PRA, a disorder causing blindness

retinal dysplasia, a malformation of the retina

Epilepsy, a disease causing seizures

 Phosphofructokinase deficiency (PFK), a blood disorder. PFK is more common in European lines than American lines. These diseases and disorders can be bred out of a line and prevented by doing genetic testing. Most breeders use OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) and/or CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation) to test their dogs genetic Health. It is desirable to have a hip rating of "fair", "good", or "excellent". Eyes should test "clear" or "normal", yearly. A new DNA test for PRA came out in early 2007, provided by the Canine Genetic Disease Network. Over 1,100 English Springer Spaniels were tested at the University of Missouri-Columbia. 42% of the dogs tested "affected", and 38% tested as "carrier". Only 20% tested "normal" for this defect. PRA does not Show up until the dog is older, so it is important to know the DNA of your puppies parents. Springers are also prone to Ear infections because of their floppy ears. The air is not always able to circulate properly, causing a build up of bacteria or yeast. Allergies to food and environment are not common but do show up in the breed. This breed tends to gain weight easily, so obesity is another common Health issue. Obesity can lead to broken bones, diabetes, and can even shorten your pet's life. Grooming

The grooming needed for the English Springer Spaniel depends upon which type you have. The field bred springer does not need much grooming, as they typically have a short coat and less feathering. Weekly brushing, combing, and the occasional clipping should suffice. If the dog hunts, it's a good idea to brush the coat out after every outing. On the other hand, the show bred springer has a substantial amount more coat than the field bred spaniel. The coat, especially the feathering will mat if not brushed. A thorough brushing and combing is required a few times a week. The neck, tail, and top of the head can be shaved thinner than the rest of the coat. A dog destined for the show ring should never have his coat shaved. However, a pet or performance dog can be kept with a shorter coat if desired. Both field and show type springers shouldn't be bathed too frequently, or their coat will become dry and dull. Supplementing the diet with omega-3 fatty acids or salmon oil will help keep the coat shiny and soft. They should be bathed with a quality shampoo and conditioner about once a month. The hair on the feet should be kept short and thin, to prevent burrs from becoming entangled in the paws. Ears should be cleaned a couple times a week, and the hair around should be trimmed or shaved, to allow the air to flow through. You can clean the ears with a cleanser from the vet or vinegar with a cotton ball. Q-tips should never be used, as they could cause an injury to the ear.

Exercise

The English Springer Spaniel will take as much exercise as you can give it. They need lots of time to run off leash and play. The English Springer Spaniel was created to stay close to his handler, so off leash walks in the woods or fields are a great form of exercise, if the dog has been trained to recall of course. Most enjoy a long swim and retrieving games. They need more than the average leash walk around the block to keep them satisfied. Hunting, agility, tracking, and obedience are popular sports among the springer breed, to keep them physically, as well as mentally, stimulated. If not exercised enough, the Springer Spaniel will gain weight, will become bored and sometimes destructive. The dogs some people describe as "hyper" are usually just not being exercised properly. Some people like to use laser lights to entertain and exercise their dogs. The springer spaniel is known to become obsessive with such a "toy" and it is highly recommended by many breeders and trainers that you not use one with your dog. Many springers become obsessive compulsive after a laser light is used for some time with them. They will literally bounce off the walls and chase after any light, including headlights on cars. There are many other ways to exercise your dog. Playing with a frisbee, fetch, jogging, going swimming, and hiking, are just a few ideas.
Training

English Springer Spaniel's are considered a very intelligent, skillful, and obedient breed. With such traits, they are very easy to train. Their alertness and attentiveness make them an ideal hunting companion, performance dog, or family pet. Springer Spaniels are a very emotional breed and their feelings are easily hurt. They need to be trained with positive reinforcement. Forceful or negative training will lead to a dog unwilling to please. Springers can also pick up on your mood, becoming agitated and impatient just as you do. Keeping a positive attitude will make it much easier to train your dog. Because the springer spaniel is such an intelligent dog, they need mental stimulation from training. Whether you teach them a wide variety of tricks, perform in events such as agility, flyball, obedience, tracking, and field trials, or train them into service or therapy dogs, your spaniel will flourish from it. Through training, you develop a strong bond with your dog, and he will respect you more for it. A dog left untrained will become bored, and look for ways to entertain himself, such as becoming destructive, obsessive, or overly energetic. Many children join in on training their springers through junior handling. Being an adaptable breed, springers will work for adults and children alike. Most clubs allow children to compete with their dogs in any and all events, including conformation showing. Springers are dogs that easily pick up on language. If you speak to them enough, they can understand commands through casual talk. The more you talk to your dog, the more he will understand.

Overall, springers are an easy breed to live with if you train them and exercise them properly. They have the potential to become just another enjoyable member of the household.

English Toy Spaniels

Aliases: King Charles Spaniel, Charlies, ET's
Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:1-3 puppies. Group:Gun Dog/AKC Toy Group Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The English Toy Spaniel comes in four color varieties: The Blenheim is a red and white dog. The coat is pearly white with deep red or chestnut markings in large, evenly distributed patches. Ears and cheeks are red, and there should be red markings around both eyes. They will have a blaze of white that extends from the nose up the forehead and ending between the ears. The Blenheim often carries a thumb mark or "Blenheim Spot" placed on the top and the center of the skull. The Prince Charles pattern is a tricolor dog with a pearly white background and black patches. They have solid black ears and black markings on their faces. They typically have black markings around the eyes, as well. They also have rich tan markings on the face, over their eyes, in the lining of the ears and under their tails. The King Charles pattern is a black and tan dog. They have a glossy black background with mahogany tan marks on the cheeks, in the linings of the ears, over their eyes, on their legs and underneath their tails. There can be a small chest patch of white or a few white hairs on the chest. Otherwise, this dog should have no white markings. The Ruby English Toy Spaniel is colored a rich dark red. There will often be a white patch of hair about the size of a quarter or a few white hairs on their chests, but otherwise, this dog has no other coloring is a self-colored, rich mahogany red.

Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed

Male Height:10 inches Male Weight:8-14 pounds for males Female Height:10 inches Female Weight:8-14 pounds for males Living Area:These are indoor dogs. They don't need a great deal of exercise, and they don't tolerate temperature extremes or pollution very well. They are perfect for apartment life. They should never be left outdoors in an unfenced yard. They are prone to chase after birds and could well leave the yard. Plus, at their small size they could easily be hurt by larger animals. English Toy Spaniels do not eat a great deal. They will eat between 1/4 and 1 cup of dog food each day, preferably fed in two meals. They are sometimes prone to being picky eaters, and feeding a little canned dog food mixed with their dry kibble can help them to be more willing to eat. However, since they are prone to dental problems, they should not be fed canned food exclusively.
Description

The English Toy Spaniel is a small dog with a square build. They are sturdy and cobby. They are designed to be companion dogs and are quite intelligent. Though they are a toy sized dog, they are actually quite hardy. They have a black pug nose on a very short muzzle and a dome shaped skull, and their heads and cheeks look somewhat chubby. Their teeth are slightly undershot. They have round eyes that are quite large and dark. Their ears are long and hang down in a pendant fashion. They have a medium long silky coat. Their tails are typically docked to two to four inches and are carried at or just slightly above the level of the back. Their tails should be feathered with silky hair that is 3-4 inches in length. Their legs are short but well muscled with small compact feet. They have a lively and elegant gait, with a long stride for their size. There are many confusing names for this dog and its cousins. English Toy Spaniels (also known as the King Charles Spaniel) are affectionately referred to as E.T.s' or Charlies'. These are not to be confused with their cousins, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels who are usually called Cavaliers. They are two entirely separate breeds, though they are quite similar. In addition, the names King Charles and Prince Charles are be used to describe color patterns within the breed. Charlies' noses are more pushed in than the Cavalier, who resembles the pug far less, and their ears are set lower. Cavaliers' ears are set quite high, accentuating the flat skull. The tails of Charlies' are docked, but the tails of a Cavalier are left long. It is said that Charlies' most closely resemble pugs and Cavaliers most closely resemble spaniels. Both breeds are available in the same colors.

Coat Description

The English Toy Spaniel has a long and heavy coat with feathering on the ears and on both the front and hind legs. Their coats are very silky and shiny and are straight or with just the slightest hint of wave. Different colors of this breed obtain different lengths and thicknesses of coat, with the Prince Charles and King Charles having thicker and longer coats than the Blenheim and Rubies. Their coats should not be significantly trimmed.
History

It is believed that English Toy Spaniels date back to Asian spaniels and pugs. The breed was developed in the British Isles. The breed was originally developed as a woodcock dog. However, they quickly became a favorite of British royalty, and soon became primarily used as companion dogs. In fact, the term King Charles Spaniel came from King Charles II of England, who owned several of these dogs. This breed is still a favorite pet in England. Breeding programs began in the nineteenth century to breed the dogs down and give them a flatter and more upturned face. Their eyes were also bred to be more protruding, leading to the breed as it is today. These breeding programs are also thought to be how the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel came about.
Temperament

English Toy Spaniels are very loving and sweet dogs. They can sometimes be timid, especially with strangers, but once they get to know someone they are happy, gentle and playful. They are very affectionate with their families, but typically have one person in the family that they prefer to all others. If mistreated or hurt, they will sometimes bite in their defense. However, as long as they are treated properly, they are not at all prone to aggression. They are well behaved overall, but are sometimes willful. They are quiet, and don't do well in loud rowdy households, though they love being with people. They are good with children, so long as they know to be gentle, and they are good with other animals. They don't enjoy being alone for long periods of time, but they are fairly inactive overall, so just having you around is all they really require. They are ideally suited to a single person or a very small family, perhaps where the children are older. They make the perfect companion dog for an older person, since they don't require much exercise or space and since they're very easy to care for. Once your dominance is established, this breed is very eager to please. They will be happy to obey and be your best friend, as this dog is primarily bred to be a companion dog. Many English Toy Spaniels love learning to do little tricks to amuse their families. They will love little games of fetch and hide and seek in the house, particularly while they are young.
Health Problems

Some English Toy Spaniels are prone to respiratory ailments, and like other Pug nosed dogs, they may wheeze, snore and have trouble breathing, especially in the heat. Their eyes and ears

are prone to infections, and so must be cleaned regularly. Some are prone to slipped knees. In addition, English Toy Spaniels sometimes suffer from hereditary eye problems, like Glaucoma and Cataracts. They are occasionally shown to have retinal dysplasia, as well. In some lines, you'll find hanging tongue syndrome, which is not a cause for medical concern, but these animals should not be bred. English Toy Spaniels sometimes suffer from mitral valve heart disease, a life threatening heart abnormality. When dogs suffer from this disease, the mitral valve of the heart ages and shrinks, failing to completely close off the area on the left side of the heart between the two chambers as blood is pumped. This causes a portion of the blood backward into the left atrium with each heartbeat. The pressure of blood within a normally functioning heart is highest in the left ventricle, as it is required to move the blood throughout the entire body. When blood flows backwards into the atrium, it elevates the blood pressure in that chamber and even further back into the lung field. English Toy Spaniels also sometimes have trouble with their teeth, particularly as they age. It's important with this breed that you brush their teeth regularly at home and that they have veterinary care for their teeth, as well. Since this breed has been shown to have a number of problems, many of them genetic and hereditary, it is extremely important to choose a reputable breeder when you're ready to buy and English Toy Spaniel. Reputable breeders will work hard to breed out deficiencies by not Breeding any dog that has shown signs of genetic or Health Problems. Breeders that are not reputable, however, will breed any dog, and are more likely to replicate genetic problems in their puppies. Before you purchase a puppy, ask questions about the lineage of the puppy.
Grooming

English Toy Spaniels are simple to groom, particularly for a long haired dog. You will need to give them regular brushing to prevent mats and tangles, particularly behind the ears, elbows and between the back legs. Brushing and combing should once a week will usually be enough to keep them mat and tangle free, but occasionally you may have to cut out a mat. They should be bathed, using a mild shampoo made especially for dogs, once or twice a month. Many owners wash their dogs' faces daily, and this breed usually loves this ritual. Of course, if you'll be showing this breed they will require more grooming. However, even for show dogs, this breed's hair should never be excessively clipped. They should have a natural appearance.
Exercise

This is a very sedentary dog. They need very little exercise and are known to be quite inactive. An occasional short walk is all the exercise they'll need. If you're a regular walker and wish to

have this breed be your walking companion, they should be introduced to long walks gradually. They are not suitable as running companions because their legs are short and they tire easily. Because of their tendency to have respiratory ailments, they should not be exercised for long periods of time during hot weather, even if they are accustomed to exercise.
Training

English Toy Spaniels are intelligent and eager to please their owners, once dominance is established. They can be willful, so it's important to establish yourself as the Alpha dog early on. Because the English Toy Spaniel can sometimes be timid with strangers, it's very important that they be socialized very early on to prevent them from being fearful of your family's visitors. If you are planning to show this breed, introducing them to the life of the show ring early will prevent them from being fearful of the events that will take place in the ring. If they are properly exposed to the ring, however, their naturally sunny personalities are sure to be favorite. Crate training works well for housebreaking this breed. Since they are so small, they can find many places in your home to go to the bathroom unnoticed, and once the habit is started it is very difficult to break. However, because of the dog's intolerance of extreme temperatures, many owners choose to paper train this breed, so that they are not required to go outside to go to the bathroom when it is very cold or very hot outside. This also works well for high rise apartment dwellers who don't want to make frequent trips outdoors. English Toy Spaniels are known for being difficult to leash train, so it's important to begin this task early and to be patient. They have a bit of a hunting instinct, and will usually chase after any bird around, so it's important that they not be left off their leads.

Estrela Mountain Dogs

Aliases: Portuguese Shepherd, Cao da Serra da Estrela
Life Span:9-14 years Litter Size:8 puppies Group:Herding, Pastoral

Recognized By:AKC Color:Brindle, gray or wolf colored and all colors of fawn except very pale are accepted. A black mask and shading is desired. Hair Length:Medium

Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:25 1/2- 28 1/2 inches (65-72 cm) Male Weight:66-110 pounds (30 kg-50kg) Female Height:24 1/2- 27 inches (62-68 cm) Female Weight:66-110 pounds (30 kg-50kg) Living Area:Outdoors in moderate climates but prefers to be indoors with people at night.
Description

The Estrela Mountain Dog has two distinct coat varieties. The most popular coat for the show line is the long, thick coat that is somewhat coarse but not harsh to the touch. The coat may be wavy but not curly, and the dense inner coat is very thick and soft. The shorter coat variety will still have the dense undercoat and the same textured outer coat it will just be shorter and not as wavy. The breed is considered a large dog and the males are typically larger than the females. The males also have a much more pronounced ruff around the shoulders and chest that make the chest are of the breed look very deep and developed. The neck and shoulders are powerful and well developed and the body is well proportioned and slightly longer than the dog is tall at the shoulders. The topline is very level and the dog is very sturdy and strong looking, well balanced and powerful without appearing overly developed. The tail is carried low and has a distinctive hook in the end, which is an important characteristic of the breed. The Estrela Mountain Dog has long legs that appear strong and well boned without being stocky or thick in appearance. There should be some furnishings on the legs however it should not distract from the overall appearance of the dog. The feet are very thick and the pads well developed with quite a bit of hair between the pads of the feet. The nails are very strong and thick and very dark or black. The toes should be very close together and tight, not loose or spreading. The head is broad and open looking with a strong muzzle that is slightly tapered. The eyes are oval and well set, giving the breed a very intelligent and calm appearance. The eyes may be amber or darker but should not be yellow in color. The ears are carried somewhat backwards and close to the skull with the inner edge visible. The mouth, lips and nose of the dog should be black, as should the skin visible around the eye. The breed has a very sure and controlled gait and movement with long strides and a confident appearance when they move. The tail is over carried slightly higher than the back when the dog

is in motion. The Estrela Mountain Dog is known for its natural jogging style gait that allows it to cover large distances with ease.
Coat Description

The coat may be either moderately short or very long. Both varieties will have a somewhat coarse outer coat over a dense and thick inner coat. The longer coated variety will have heavy furnishing on the legs, tail and the ruff around the neck and the shorter coated variety will have some furnishings but they are not as thick or long. The coat has natural oils and is weather resistant.
History

The exact history of the Estrela Mountain Dog is unknown, but it is likely that this large breed is another dog descended from the Roman Molossus dog that was brought by invading armies all around the world. The large Roman dog, or as some experts suggest, a later dog brought to Portugal by the Visigoths somewhat later. The large dogs were quickly identified by the nomadic shepherds as ideal flock guardians. Since the routes for the sheep were a pattern, the dogs were literally raised on the migration routes from the summer pastures in the high Estrela plains in Portugal to the warmer, valleys in the winter months. The breed was largely isolated due to the locations of the herds, so the shepherds were able to carefully select for the characteristics they most wanted in the breed. As the wealthier land owners became aware of these amazingly versatile dogs they started keeping some of the breed on the estates as companion and watchdogs. These dogs were bred to have the same loyal and intelligent temperament but were likely bred to be larger and heavier than the variety that was used for herding across the mountain ranges and passes. It is likely that the breed that is represented today is more similar to the Estrela Mountain Dogs owned by the wealthy land owners than by the shepherds. The Estrela Mountain Dog is still used as a working dog in Portugal and since 1970 has been gaining in popularity around the world. The dog is well known in France and other parts of Europe but is still relatively uncommon in North America.
Temperament

A natural protector, the Estrela Mountain Dog is a loyal and loving companion to their family. They are known for their alert behavior and natural guarding skills. They will protect both people, other family pets and animals as well as the property even as puppies. The breed is both independent and obedient provided they are trained and well socialized. If not properly trained they can be very independent and somewhat stubborn in following commands. The Estrela Mountain Dog, like many of the herding and working breeds, needs to feel that it is doing something or working. It is very important to challenge this dog both mentally and well as physically on a daily basis. Finding ways to change and modify training routines to pose a

challenge to this breed is a must. They are very intelligent and quickly become bored with the same old commands. Since they are very quick learners repetition is not needed to master a new command or trick. The Estrela Mountain Dog is often jokingly considered to have "temporary hearing loss" as they will simply ignore commands if they feel they are not necessary or if the dog feels they have already done what the owner requests. The Estrela Mountain Dog is a true companion dog and does very well with children. They seem to have endless patience with children plus they are very high energy dogs that can keep up with busy kids all day. They do best when they are with people most of the time, although they can tolerate moderate times alone. Generally the Estrela Mountain Dog is friendly towards other dogs and will be well behaved even with non-canine pets. Proper and frequent socialization will ensure that this compatible behavior continues as the dog matures. As a protector the breed does bark to notify family of strangers approaching, but they are not known as problem barkers if they are well cared for and provided with training and attention. They are wary of strangers but will quickly learn what people are family friends. This breed bonds very closely with people in the family and usually will have a difficult time adjusting to re-homing, especially after they have bonded with a family. Often these dogs will even grieve the loss of a family pet or family member should they no longer be in the household.
Health Problems

As with all large breeds the Estrela Mountain Dog may have difficulties with canine hip dysplasia and carefully checking the Breeding lines is highly recommended. Various types of cancers may also be present in the breed but again this is very typical of many of the larger breeds of dogs. The Estrela Mountain Dog may also have growth problems known as OCD or osteochondritis dissecans that occurs when the cartilage in young dogs grows incorrectly around joints. This can cause movement problems and pain for the growing puppy. There are different treatment options but dogs with OCD should not be used as breeding stock.
Grooming

Depending on the long or short coat variety the grooming requirements will differ slightly. The long coated variety of Estrela Mountain Dog will require more regular grooming to prevent the furnishings from matting, as well as removing the dead hair from the coat. The shorter haired variety is less prone to tangles in the furnishings but still requires at least twice a week grooming to keep the coat looking in top condition. A slicker brush and a rake are the best options for grooming tools. First use the grooming rake to clear all knots, tangles and mats from the coat, following with the slicker brush to provide a smooth and shiny surface. A metal comb can be used to keep the furnishings on the legs and tail free from knots and tangles. Occasionally the breed may be trimmed but this is a choice of the owner, not a requirement. Since the Estrela Mountain Dog has a naturally protective oil to the coat to allow it to withstand wet and cold conditions it is important not to bathe this breed unless necessary. Care must be

taken to avoid using any type of harsh soap or human hair products on these dogs as this can cause the coat and skin to dry out, leaving the coat lifeless and damaged. Always use the best possible quality dog shampoos and conditioners and be very sure to rinse any residue out of the coat when the bath is completed.
Exercise

The Estrela Mountain Dog is used to moving about a great deal in guarding and herding flocks of sheep. They do not do well in small spaces and are not recommended for apartments or small houses without a yard. This breed loves to be outdoors and to have a medium to large yard to explore and walk around in. They are wonderful dogs for active families that love to hike, jog or run, however they do prefer a cooler climate rather than a very hot climate. The Estrela Mountain Dog needs at least one long period of exercise per day. This can be a long walk, an off the leash run or just a good romp in the yard or the park with kids or a companion dog. Since they are not typically dog aggressive they are great to exercise off leash as they are loyal and true guard dogs, vary rarely if ever wandering off or leaving their owners. As protective dogs they will often pace the perimeter of the yard to ensure that the area is safe several times before finding a vantage point to sit and guard from. In the house the Estrela Mountain Dog tends to be very quiet and not disruptive or rambunctious. As puppies they will need more exercise and activities than mature dogs, but any age is generally calm and well behaved provided they have their regular exercise. The breed can be used in herding competitions and this provides excellent mental and physical exercise to keep them in shape and alert.
Training

The Estrela Mountain Dog has been bred for centuries to be able to think for itself and to protect and move large flocks of sheep safely across wild and desolate terrain. This independence is still evident today and the breed does require an owner that can keep this perspective in mind. They are a very intelligent breed that will stop to consider options before simply obeying a command. They are highly loyal, loving and protective and once they form a partnership with a person they will work very well for that individual, although they may not respond as quickly to everyone in the family. The breed should be socialized early to prevent them from becoming overly protective of the family and wary of strangers. They will benefit greatly from obedience training and can be excellent in obedience events if the owner works consistently with the dog. Since the breed can be challenging to train they are not recommended as a first dog for inexperienced owners. Males may be somewhat dominant and need to clearly understand that the human is in control. They should only be trained using positive training methods and will not respond well to negative training methods. The Estrela Mountain Dog needs to feel that he or she has a job to do to be happy. They need to have exercise and proper time to spend outside so they are able to focus on the training routine.

Routines should include mental challenges and physical challenges to keep the dog engaged in learning. They are a playful breed that can be taught many types of games to provide these challenges such as hide and seek, fetch and even puzzle type games where the dog must complete new activities or obstacle courses. Generally the Estrela Mountain Dog works best when he or she feels that they are working with the owner, not for them. Spending time with the dog to bond and build a relationship is key in helping this dog to become a well-behaved animal.

Field Spaniels
Aliases: Field, Bramast Glenmorhan
Life Span:10 - 12 years Litter Size:4 - 8 puppies with the average being 6 puppies Group:Gun Dog, AKC Sporting Group Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Solid Liver, Solid Black, Tan Markings, Speckled, White/Black, Blue Roan, Liver/White, Red Roan, Tricolours, Blue/Tan, red Roan/Tan, Solid Tan. Hair Length:Medium Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:18 inches (46 cm.) Male Weight:30-45 pounds (16 - 22.5 kg.) Female Height:18 inches (46 cm.) Female Weight:30-45 pounds (16 - 22.5 kg.) Living Area:The Field Spaniel is best suited for a house or larger living space simply because they need to run about in a yard or fenced in area. They are not well suited for apartment homes or smaller dwellings since they can become neurotic and temperamental if they do not have enough space. These dogs still have roots in natural hunting environments, and it is important that they are not let out of sight on a regular basis. A fenced-in property is the safest place for these dogs to roam and run in, as they are likely to simply follow a scent if they are left

unattended. This breed prefers cooler climates and will exhibit neurotic behavior if it is simply locked away.
Description

The Field Spaniel is a moderately-sized dog that has a heavier and longer build than a Cocker Spaniel. Since it has a rich and lustrous coat, this dog breed is commonly used as a show dog and has one of the sweetest and mild-mannered personalities. Its coat is silky and generally solid in color. Some breeds have tan and speckled markings, while others have spots of white on the chest. The silky coat is usually either liver-colored or all black. The Field Spaniel's coat is usually feathered but never curly. These dogs have regular-sized muzzles, and large noses with open nostrils. A gentle but noble expression is common for this breed, and almond-shaped eyes in hazel or chestnut brown are signature traits. The face is lean, thin, and attractive; this is an important feature for show dogs and makes the Field Spaniel especially desirable. The eyes are not too full, and may be nearly black. They often have a grave expression that further emphasizes their natural docility. Ears are usually set low which adds to the beauty of the head. They have natural Setter-like feather that makes the head and neck area especially attractive. The neck is usually strong, muscular, and lean; these dogs stand tall and confdient, and have moderatealy long, fringed ears. The tail is usually docked and tucked under. The body is long and very low, and a well-ribbed dog will stand straight or slightly arched. Field spaniels are natural sporting dogs and are capable of creating a very beautiful and useful stage presence. Trianing the field spaniel can take time but the effort is worthwile; this breed makes an excellent show dog and is easily trainable after only a few sessions. After initial bonding time with the owner, a Field Spaniel becomes especially loyal and can be a great companion dog as well. Its mild manners and even temperament make it suitable for a variety of households, families, and owners.
Coat Description

The Field Spaniel has a thin and glossy coat can be speckled or just plain tan with white spots. The coat is of moderate length and can be flat or slightly wavy. This breed is highly weather resistant, and thus prefers cooler climates and even wet weather. The most common coat is black, but some coats may also be mahogany red, golden liver, or plain liver in color. White in the chest area is also fairly common.
History

The Field Spaniel is of English origin, and is a descendant of the carefully bred English Cocker Spaniel. The Field Spaniel was almost ruined by poor selection practices during the later part of the 1800's when breeders exaggerated the dog's natural weight and length. The breed remains rare to this day, and is a coveted show dog as a result. It was not until the later 1920's that the dog rose to prominence in the western world, and is one again enjoying attention for its natural

beauty and key characteristics. The Field Spaniel is considered to be a good bird dog because of its mild disposition. They make wonderful family companions, and have risen in popularity for tracking, hunting and retrieving. Many pet owners also enjoy keeping these dogs as watchdogs. The Field Spaniel is a classic breed and is a top choice for many sporting groups and hunting groups as well. Field Spaniels were first developed for conformation showing purposes, but they have slowly become family dogs as well. Variations of the breed include Cocker Spaniels and Irish Water Spaniels. Show breeders find this dog to be especially attractive because of its clean silhouettes and rarity of the breed itself. Some color breeders of the Field Spaniel have endeavored to bring back the true Spaniel type that may not necessarily have been all black. Variety colors have also included white, black and white, quadri-colors, and liver white and tan. The Field Spaniel is often considered to be a dog with perfect balance; fine character, great beauty, and natural hunters make this a very attractive addition to show breeders and dog collectors. They are naturally enthusiastic and affectionate. These dogs make beautiful pets for families, as well as showroom dogs for pet owners interested in contests.
Temperament

The Field Spaniel is incredibly docile, calm, but also independent in nature. These dogs are smart, intelligent, and playful; they are also very active and can be full of energy. They make excellent family pets because of their drive to please and friendly nature, and they are especially good with young children because of their soft and docile presence. It is important that this breed is socialized well so that they do not become too timid; this is a natural trait and they can be very friendly and sociable once they break out of their comfort zone. If the dog is undersocialized in early years, it will be much less likely to interact with strangers. Field spaniels enjoy roaming and exploring, and are often involved with playing and activities. If play becomes too rough, however, they may become timid, withdrawn, and unsociable. It is important to monitor them in their early years so that they do not become temperamental in new situations. Tehse dogs have a tendency to become stubborn, but they are calm and placid overall. They become very happy when they have an activity to do or a project to complete; they are quick learners and will pay attention to direction and the owner's voice. Training the Field Spaniel is relatively easy and they are very sensitive to voice, tone, and manners. It is important to be direct and not too harsh with these dogs as they will pick up any nuances and behaviors immediately. A tough approach will likely disturb them and may result in reluctant behavior traits. The Field Spaniel is famous for becoming devoted to only one family member and ignoring other parties as a result. They can become neurotic if they are locked away in a kennel, and need regular contact with a variety of people. These dogs are very trustworthy, dependable, and loyal. They can be very affectionate and loving, and become excellent family dogs over the long term.

The Field Spaniel matures at an average rate, and is a quick learner and eager to grow by learning new skills.
Health Problems

Field Spaniels are generally quite healthy and can withstand various Health conditions. The most common special medical conditions to be concerned about include:
hip dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness. Ear infections

Deafness: Congenital Deafness can be a problem. Grooming

The Field Spaniel's naturally glossy coat needs to be brushed and combed at least twice per week, minimally just once per week. Any straggling hairs and excessive hair can be cut every few months, and taking the dog to the dog grooming parlor on a monthly basis will take care of the basic necessities. Show dogs need a professional groomer at least four times per year, since this is where any dead hair can be removed with plucking. Hair may also be thinned out in the ears, legs, and neck area. These dogs are considered fairly high maintenance in the show dog field since they need consistent attention to keep their hair smooth, clean, and shiny. These dogs rarely shed hair. Bathing and shampooing is necessary when the dog has been playing in dirt, and it's a good idea to have the skin and ears checked by a Vet on a regular basis. Checking for ticks during tick season can prevent infection and disease, and nails should never be allowed to grow too long. Field Spaniels naturally have webbed feet and excessive hair may lead to too much moisture and infection.
Exercise

The Field Spaniel has roots as a working field dog and needs a lot of exercise. A field or large garden space is ideal for these dogs to run about and get at least a few hours of exercise each day. These dogs enjoy long walks, and can accompany their owners on nature trails, running, or running alongside a bicycle. It's important to keep the Field Spaniel on a leash as they have a tendency to explore a new environment simply by following their nose. They adapt easily to family settings and groups, and make valuable companions on trips. They need to be taken on at least 1-2 long walks per day, preferably on a leash. Fetching games and other outdoor toys are attractive to the Field Spaniel, but the ideal activities

are running and walking. The Field Spaniel is naturally playful and will take part in activities with familiar owners or guardians. It is important to keep track of their whereabouts, especially in the dark. Field Spaniels have plenty of energy to play all day, and enjoy new environments and settings. Field Spaniels need a large amount of exercise so that they do not become neurotic or bored. They are very sensitive to nature, and can be quick to respond to shifts, changes, or loud noises. It is important to take them outdoors in a safe and nurturing environment; very young puppies should be trained and exercised at home before exploring larger territory. The Field Spaniel is a natural hunter and will have a tendency to get lost if they are left on their own. This breed stays healthy and happy when they have an opportunity to explore with their owners or guardians.
Training

Field Spaniels are naturally independent but they learn very quickly. They are commonly involved with play, and are docile by nature. Training these dogs is not difficult as they are intelligent and friendly and will be fairly open to learning new skills and activities. They will withdraw if they are treated roughly so it is important to be careful with the training process from the start. Younger puppies can be especially timid and shy, so creating a bond first will help overcome initial training obstacles. Field Spaniels have a tendency to bark too quickly and abruptly after slight sounds and events. They may not listen to commands or directions if they are afraid or anxious, so it is important that training takes place in a secure and non-threatening environment. These dogs require early socialization to prevent timidity, so taking them out to the dog park so that they can mingle with other dogs is very important. They may exhibit aggression later on in life if they did not receive appropriate socialization; it is important to remain firm, fair, and consistent to make positive changes. Field spaniels are especially valuable for hunting, retrieving and tracking. This is helpful for any activities that can help improve the dog's natural abilities and skills. Every puppy will need to be trained differently, and this is especially important for the youngest set of Field Spaniels. They can become naturally attached to just one owner, and helping them develop bonds with other members of the family and other dogs is an essential part of training. These dogs learn new tricks and skills naturally, especially when they are given the chance to run around and engage in physical activity. They are moderately active indoors, and will engage in a multitude of activities with owners on a regular basis. This provides plenty of opportunities for interaction and training. As watchdogs, the Field Spaniel can be trained to be especially observant and vigilant.

Fila Brasileiros
Aliases: Brazilian Mastiff, Cao de Fila, Fila
Life Span:10 years.

Litter Size:2 and 5 puppies. Group:Mastiff Recognized By:CKC, FCI, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:Fawn, Black, Brown, Brindle Hair Length:Short Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:27-29.5 inches (65-75 cm.) Male Weight:90-100 pounds (40-50 kg.) Female Height:24-27.5 inches (60-70 cm.) Female Weight:85-90 pounds (37-40 kg.) Living Area:The Fila isn't suited to apartment life, by virtue of its size alone. Like many large dogs, it isn't particularly energetic but when it needs to exercise, it'll need an abundance of space to be able to do so effectively. The dog is ideal for a country home, or a place on a farm. Open spaces will allow a Fila the freedom that it needs to work its rigid muscular frame. A large home with a closed off yard will suffice, but the owner should be aware that claustrophobic city streets aren't the natural habitat of this particular breed. They aren't well adapted to urban life. Providing the necessary shelter is in place, a Fila will quite happily sleep outdoors.
Description

The Fila Brasileiro is a fiercely loyal and proud dog, with clear indications of bloodhound ancestry in its distinct appearance. It possesses a short, soft coat which is evenly spread over a muscular body. One of the first things you'll notice about the Fila is the large muzzle. It's hard to miss with the heavy upper lips. Breeders take great pride in the skin of the dog, and it is preferred to be hanging loosely from the bulky body. The dog is blessed with a mighty back, and the ability to generate great power, although it isn't in

the temperament of the Fila to use it. The back rises up slowly to meet the hindquarters, and the camels gait is seen as one of the unique selling points which distinguish the breed. When in motion, the dog moves forward with both legs on one side, before moving the others. This makes for a distinct walk, and adds to the harsh impression that the dog is lazy or slow off the mark. You can always tell a Fila by its rugged face and angled body. It isn't the most graceful of breeds, but it has a very distinct character and the bone structure separates it as a powerful dog which is impressive to look at. Bitches tend to be less dominant in their posture, and particularly in the professional breeding environment, they are encouraged to display greater feminism. The Fila is brave and will put itself in harm's way to protect not just the owner, but the owner's family too. It is portrayed as an aggressive dog, for which there is good reason, but the Fila can be extremely affectionate too.
Coat Description

The Fila possesses a smooth and dense coat, usually in fawn or brindle. Stripes of differing shades are fairly common. The coat is rough to touch as you'd expect by the dog's muscular frame, and there is not a lot of hair around the ears or muzzle. It will shed an average amount of hair during the warm season, with the exact quantity varying from dog to dog. You may find some white markings on the chest and tail, although this isn't desirable amongst professional breeders.
History

The Fila Brasileiro is banned in some countries, yet it has a history of good behavior and well rounded discipline. Its ancestors date back to the 1400's in the form of the old English Mastiff. In fact, the Brasileiro has developed slowly over time, taking from other notable breeds in the process. Traits taken belong to the Bloodhound, the Rafeiros and even the Bulldog. The dog has traditionally been used to manipulate livestock. It has always possessed a threatening demeanor but is rarely violent unless provoked. Such false claims of unmerited aggression have lead to the breed being banned from certain countries, looking past several key jobs that the dog has previously performed. The Fila used to return slaves to their captors in Brazil, without harming them in the process. It appears that this has gone forgotten in recent time. The breed eventually spread across North America and gained popularity in Europe, where it is still adored today. Always keep the dog on a leash in public, not just to guarantee the safety of those around you, but to rule out the threat of dognappers who have routinely taken them in the past. The dogs are then sold in to pit fights for great profit.

Temperament

You will find that there's a great deal of discussion over how the temperament of the Fila SHOULD be, and most of this discussion is divided in to two very different opinions. There are those who breed the dog with the sole purpose of being a protector - and ultimately mean - guard dog. And there are those who choose to breed a tamer Fila which is welcoming to strangers and less aggressive by nature. One thing is for sure, the Fila is an immensely proud dog which doesn't need to be taught how to protect its owner. It is ingrained in the Fila's way. If a stranger tries to enter your house and the Fila isn't comfortable with their presence, rest assured, the stranger will be made well aware of his or her situation. It is an intimidating dog, certainly when encountered on the other side of the fence so to speak. But the dog shouldn't be mistaken as a barbaric wild animal in the way that many choose to do so. It will trust who it sees you to trust. If you show a lack of confidence in the people around you, the Fila will instantly pick up on this and have doubts of its own. As such, they are remarkably attentive dogs. It is also a breed which shouldn't be taken care of by a passive owner. You must understand the need to show confidence, as the Fila will interpret your own lack of confidence as a reason to be aggressive and dominant. Knowing your dog is certainly important, and absolutely crucial in the case of the Fila Brasileiro owner. The owner must understand the alpha male attitude of the dog. If you wish to own a tamer Fila, it is important to train it socially from an early age. This means mixing it socially amongst different faces and getting it used to situations where strangers will have contact. Even then, don't assume that just because you have trained your dog, it will be used to any kind of social environment. It is the nature of the Fila to protect, and it will go to great lengths to ensure that it does so. It is not a breed to hold back when provoked either. Remarkably, despite its potentially aggressive stance around strangers, this is a dog which is brilliant to have around children and other small animals. The dog can be wonderfully impassive around those that it trusts, and you'd be amazed that such a fierce looking breed could be so gentle with the kids.
Health Problems

Being one of the larger breeds in the dog world, the Fila Brasileiro is somewhat prone to the ailments which you'd typically associate with bigger dogs. They can fall victim to hip dysplasia, a devastating condition which can result in lameness and severe disability. elbow dysplasia is also a risk, although nowhere near as common. Look out for signs of CHD, Gastric torsion and Progressive Retinal Atrophy. Heart problems are a possibility, and annual check-ups are definitely advisable.

One of the main reasons behind these Health hazards lies in the bloating nature of the Fila Brasileiro. They do tend to fill up after a meal therefore it is important to maintain a healthy balanced Diet to avoid Bloat. This means Feeding several similar sized portions rather than one large meal, which is more likely to produce health complications or disease. There is not much that can be done to tackle the bloating issue, other than to keep a close eye on the diet and the size of its meals.
Grooming

The Fila needs a fair deal of grooming, despite the easily maintainable style of the coat. It is a naturally smooth coat and can be brushed down easily. Use a rough bristle when combing the dog's coat. This will produce the best effect, especially when combined with a soft towel to wipe the hair down and leave it looking shining and fresh. It's also advisable to bathe the dog regularly with shampoo. Not only will the Fila enjoy this attention, but it will keep the skin and coat looking healthy for all to see. The dog will shed an average amount of hair, with a little variation across the breed as you'd expect. The ears should be cleaned at the canal to minimize the chances of infection. Filas aren't shy when it comes to throwing their weight around so be prepared for treatment of minor injuries. Overall, it isn't a high maintenance breed and can be looked after quite easily.
Exercise

This dog needs plenty of exercise to burn off steam from its large frame, but don't be under the impression that it's an athletic breed. The Fila can seem very lazy and quite content to sleep in its yard, even rejecting the opportunity to go for a walk. It can be a moody dog, tired and slumbering one minute, desperate to be taken for a stroll the next. It is important to get in to a habit of exercising the dog at similar times, so that it knows what to expect. Regular exercise from a young age will also encourage healthy activity. The Fila isn't the best companion for rigorous workouts, but it will happily oblige if the activity isn't overly exhausting.
Training

The Fila must be trained from an early age in order to become obedient and passive in social situations. If left untrained, the dog has a tendency to become overly aggressive and potentially violent. A firm and sensible trainer is required, preferably one who understands the alpha attitude of the dog. You cannot teach the Fila to guard and protect as it sees these duties as its own, whether

you train it to or not. The trainer must be confident and in control of the situation at all times. If strangers enter the house and the trainer doesn't feel entirely comfortable with their presence, the dog will latch on and its protective instinct will rise to the surface. This can mean a hasty exit for the stranger in your living room. At the same time, if the trainer shows confidence and trust in the people that they're dealing with, the dog will appreciate the display and the stranger will have earned the dog's trust too. The Fila is very brave and never afraid to step in to the firing line, making it an easy choice for a guard dog. In fact, the Fila rarely needs training in order to be a guard dog - excluding the basics of obedience. Socialization training should involve presenting the young Fila to various strangers and unknown faces. If this is done regularly as a puppy, it will be much easier for the trainer to take control in similar situations when the dog is fully grown and mature. The dog, for all of its muscular aggression, is brilliant to have around the owner's family. It will treat young children and smaller animals as its loyal companions and will resist all teasing. When you have a Fila's trust, it will treat you impeccably. No matter how well trained the dog is, it should never be allowed to roam unleashed in public. You can treat your Fila with the utmost respect and control it in the home, but if somebody else steps out of line, the dog will respond. You can't train it to forget about its natural instinct. So remember the leash!

Finnish Spitzs
Aliases: Suomenpystykorva, Finsk Spets, Loulou Finnoi
Life Span:12 - 15 years Litter Size:5 - 8 puppies with the average being 6 puppies Group:Northern, AKC, Non-Sporting. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Red/Gold, Red, Gold, White Markings. Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium

Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:15 - 20 inches (38 - 51 cm.) Male Weight:31 - 35 pounds (14-16 kg.) Female Height:15 - 20 inches (38 - 51 cm.) Female Weight:31 - 35 pounds (14-16 kg.) Living Area:Even though these dogs can become quite large, the Finnish Spitz needs a lot of room for exercise and will need to be outdoors on a frequent basis. The dogs make excellent running or jogging companions, and they are most content when they have been busy all day running and exploring, and can rest at your feet at night! These dogs do not fare well being chained up all day, and need frequent exercise to stay busy. It does stay inactive indoors, and is best suited for cooler climates as a result.
Description

The Finnish Spitz is a fox-like dog, and is commonly mistaken for a fox in its formative years. Recognized by its honey-colored double coat and pointed muzzle, these dogs are exceptionally well-bred and have distinct features and coloring. The nose and lips are black, and the dogs have a distinctive smile. This medium-sized dog stands tall and erect, and will maintain good form. The teeth meet together in a scissors bite, and the dogs have a deep chest that reach down to the elbows. These dogs have plumed tails that curl up over the back and down the sides of their bodies, and the feet are round, almost cat-like in appearance. While the dog's body is compact and squarish, it does carry itself highly and has a strong carriage. The dog's coat is thick and has medium-length hair with a thick under-layer. The undercoat is straight and the standard colors are red-brown or yellowish-red. These dogs often have small white markings, and the puppies are born much darker than their elders where they acquire a reddish coat in later years. The fox-like characteristics and confident personality are the dominant features of this dog. Known for its well-balanced body and symmetrical features, the dog has brisk movement and exaggerated features. The male versions of this breed have coarse features and the feminine versions have strong silhouettes with a refined stature and strong looks as well. These dogs are excellent for hunting small game and birds, and have pointed muzzles that are naturally trained for sniffing and hunting. A strong bark and key visual skills are additional characteristics of the Finnish Spitz. Training is simple and can be achieved effectively after a steady period of time. The dog is eager to please and tends to stay loyal to its owners and masters. These dogs need to be outdoors as much as possible, and will be just fine in colder weather since they can stay warm easily. The dogs are good housekeepers, but they may become bored easily.

It is important to provide stimulating environments and activities so that they do not become bored, restless, or self-destructive.
Coat Description

The Finnish Spitz has a natural red, gold, and red gold tone with white markings. The undercoat is short and soft and is usually made up of a white covering. The dogs have medium coats that offer them strong weather protection, and since they are from an Arctic climate, they can easily adapt to cooler weather.
History

The Finnish Spitz has historically been brought over from the Volga River Area of Central Russia, and evolved from the hunting tribes of Finland over 2000 years ago. It has become the national dog of Finland, and has often been mentioned in several Finnish patriotic songs. The breed is widely known throughout Scandinavian countries, and it was first recognized by the AKC in 1987. The first Finnih Sptizes were thoroughly inbred during the 1880s, and the first English Spitzes arrived in England in 1927. These dogs make excellent family pets and have also been found to be good estate dogs. They are also excellent at hunting birds, and they can maintain careful watch over families and small children. Astute, swift, and intelligent, these dogs display many fox-like mannerisms. It is important that they are trained appropriately and managed with care; they have long been bred with an aggressive streak and have a tendency to fall into overly aggressive patterns as a result of their heritage. A healthy and well-bred dog, the Finnish Spitz is handsome in appearance and strong as a leader.
Temperament

A natural hard worker, the Finnish Spitz trots and walks with a lively grace, and has a natural affinity for speed. Always active and overtly friendly, these dogs are brave but also very cautious. They are fox-like in both manner and action, and they have a tendency toward unprovoked aggression. The Finnish Spitz is brave, lively, and always alert; it is attentive as well, and will listen to commands and direction from its master. Patience is required during obedience training, as this dog can become difficult to manage at various periods of time. These dogs make great companions, and are pleasant to be aroudn with family members of all ages. They are especially good with children and older adults, and although they are slow to mature, they have a friendly manner to them. The male versions of this breed can be exceptionally domineering and very aggressive. This is a natural trait that can be changed with the appropriate training and handling, and the female versions are also somewhat stronger than other breeds. However, these dogs may also be reserved and aloof with strangers, and they are generally good with other pets as well. This dog requires a lot of patience and understanding as it can become quite stubborn if it feels threatened. Using a consistent manner and formal training procedures can help make training more effective

and successful; after a short period of time, these dogs will naturally bond with their owners and can perform skills and tricks quite well as a result. The Finnish Spitz will bond positively with strangers and does not have a tendency to attack. However, they are also known as the 'barking bird dog' in Finland because of their unique bark and tone. They have been known to bark in a chirrup-style manner that can become irritating if it is unrestrained. These dogs have been bred for many centuries to emphasize their barking behaviors, and this is a distinct quality of their vocalization abilities. If the dog's barking becomes a problem, it can become difficult to control. These dogs tend to fall into a barking habit when they are left outside alone for extended periods of time, or when they become restless and bored. These dogs have a strong stamina and endurance, and will fare well with a variety of activities. They are built for high performance, and will work up a strong routine in a very short period of time. Naturally intelligent and curious, these dogs make wonderful pets for families of all ages and backgrounds. They are strong protectors, and bond well with their owners consistently.
Health Problems

The Finnish Spitz is a healthy breed and has one of the lowest frequencies for Health Problems. However, there are some special medical conditions to be aware of including:
hip dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy: manifests as night blindness, slowly progresses to total blindness.

Deafness: Congenital Deafness can be a problem. Grooming

The Finnish Spitz has a self-cleaning coat since it is considered to be an Arctic dog. This requires little maintenance overall, but regular grooming with a brush and comb is important to remove dead hair. The coat does not have a strong odor, and the dog is a seasonal heavy shedder. The rich coat can stay lustrous and thick year round, and the dog will enjoy regular care and maintenance. Brushing this dog at least 2-3 times per week will help keep the coat looking shiny, tidy, and glossy. These dogs look especially well-groomed and well-maintained after a good bath, and bathing at a professional grooming place will help them look their best year round. The soft undercoat can be brushed on a regular basis to keep the dog even more clean. Nails should be trimmed as necessary, and bathing or dry shampooing services will help this dog stay in good

shape. Taking these dogs to the vet can serve as a preventative measure for disease and poor health, and these dogs will need to be checked for ticks. Trimming of the whiskers is recommended, and these dogs fare well with a natural wash on a regular basis. The dogs enjoy eating and will have a natural tendency to become overweight if they are not fed appropriately. It is important to provide carrot and other vegetables as a chew toy to maintain good health of their teeth.
Exercise

The Finnish Spitz requires extended amounts of exercise and will need to be taken outdoors at least once per day, ideally twice per day. The dog is intelligent enough to pick up new skills and tricks on a regular basis, and will happily engage in new activities. Taking the dog to the park or other open spaces is ideal for making sure it receives the appropriate amount of exercise. Jogging and running with their owners is another wonderful opportunity for bonding, and these dogs fare well with frequent intensive exercise sessions. Playing fetch or using a Frisbee are additional activities that offer appropriate exercise for this dog, and even swimming can be valuable to them. This dog is quite independent, and will come up with its own activities if it is bored or restless. It is important to train them during regular exercise sessions, and two walks per day should suffice. These dogs enjoy cooler climates and outdoor walks during the wintertime work well for them. These dogs are natural hunters, and will use their noses and scent capabilities to take part in different activities outside. It's important to keep them on a leash, as they do have a high energy level and may wander. They can be very well trained to pick up scents, and have a natural ability to hunt and discover. They will attack with swiftness and ease, and it is important to remember this when developing in effective training program.
Training

The Finnish Spitz is a very smart, astute, confident, and intelligent breed. It learns new skills very quickly and they are easy to train with the appropriate amount of attention and care. These dogs are not difficult to train but they can become stubborn if they are overly anxious or fearful. It is important to work with them in a relaxed manner whenever possible. These dogs are willful and bold, and will perform at a high level once they are comfortable and have respect for their owners. The Finnish Spitz has often been used in competition as a showdog with many of its virtuous traits and qualities. These dogs are impressive hunters, racers, and rescuers and can be trained from a very early age. They are sensitive to cues and owner demands, and will perform tricks as needed. Firmness and consistency are important for these dogs, and the best type of training is both motivational and playful. These dogs enjoy being outdoors and training them with 2-3 fifteen minute sessions per day is ideal. They are natural explorers, and taking them outside to new environments can also help improve their skills.

It is important to remember that this dog has become famous as a 'barking hunting dog' and it can be a very valuable asset during hunting phases. If it finds itself in an unpleasant situation, it will bark excessively but this acts more as a warning and the dog rarely bites. This dog makes an excellent watchdog, and will become naturally protective of its family. It has a special love for children and a strong sense of duty towards its owners. Since the dog is exceptionally sensitive, it can pick up on harsh tones of owners and other any tension or bickering amongst family members as well. It is important to train these dogs with a positive tone and make sure they are addressed with firm and gentle voice. They respond well to touch but become too 'soft' without the appropriate control. Training needs to be brief and direct as these dogs are easily bored and may require ongoing obedience classes in conjunction with athome training.

Flat-Coated Retrievers
Aliases: Flatcoat, Flatte, Flattie
Life Span:10 years Litter Size:4 - 8 puppies with the average being 6 puppies Group:Gun Dog, AKC Sporting Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black, Brown, Liver, White spots, Black spots Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:22 -23 inches (56 - 58 cm.) Male Weight:60 - 70 pounds (27 - 32 kg.) Female Height:22 -23 inches (56 - 58 cm.) Female Weight:60 - 70 pounds (27 - 32 kg.) Living Area:The Flat Coated Retriever is not recommended for apartment life, as it does need plenty of fresh air and exercise on a regular basis. These dogs were raised to be gundogs and enjoy exploring forest area, large territories, and can withstand harsh weather. They are relatively inactive indoors, and will do their best when they have an average-sized yard available. The

breed needs to be around people in order to be happy, so it is important that they are paid attention to at least once per day. Intensive exercise works best for them, and they can often be found working up a sweat outdoors in a variety of tasks. These dogs do play well indoors, but also enjoy spending as much time as possible outside as well. This dog will not do well being chained up in the house all day, and needs plenty of space to roam.
Description

The Flat Coated Retriever is a noble and sturdy dog, and stands strong as a gundog from Britain. It has been trained and bred to work on both land and, and these dogs are exceptional family companions as well. The Flat Coated Retriever has a strong, muscular jaw and long muzzle. It is a unique breed with its one-piece backskull and muzzle, and often carries a friendly and intelligent expression. The ears are pendant-shaped and are fairly small. They lie closely to the back of the skull and the dogs have a well-arched neck. The top line of the dog is strong and straight, while the back of the dog's head is angulated. The coat of the Flat Coated Retriever is a single coat, with no undercoat. It is moderate in length and is quite dense and lustrous; owners of this dog enjoy brushing and keeping this dog's coat smooth and shiny, and the coat is longer on the backs of the legs, body, and tail. The head is molded and sleek, and the eyes are either dark brown or hazel. These dogs have a very intelligent and often doleful expression; they have moderately small ears and simple but bold features. The nose is usually black, but it may be brown in color for liver-colored retrievers. The back is short, square, and muscular and the feet are round and strong. These dogs are naturally very energetic and training can take some time. However, they are also very obedient and will listen to their masters and owners with little fuss. These dogs are stable and consistent, and they fit well with a variety of families.
Coat Description

Borders are single coated with moderately long, dense, and lustrous brown or black coats. The body coat often has longer feathering on the backs of the body and tail region, and the areas around the face are short and smooth.
History

The Flat Coated Retriever originated in the mid 19th century in England, and soon became popular as a gamekeeper's dog. It later moved on into becoming a gundog as its hunting characteristics and traits were outstanding. Part of the ancestry of the Flat Coated Retriever can be due to stock imported from North America from the area of St. John's Newfoundland. This dog is thought to have been a descendant of the Labrador and the Chesapeake Bay Retriever. The Flat Coated Retriever quickly gained popularity in the U.S. as a gundog in the 1870s, and it has been recognized as a stable and noble dog ever since. By the end of World War II, however, there were very few flat coated retrievers in existence but breeders have once again given rise to these dogs as companions and showdogs as well. The Flat Coated Retriever has shown multiple

talents and a steady temperament throughout the years; it has increasingly been used in field competition, and careful breeding has brought it back into a variety of breeding circles. These dogs are very good at being watchdogs, retrieving, hunting, tracking, and they have consistent agility. Today, the Flat Coatd Retriever is modestly popular and requires attentive breeding to encourage its natural talents. It is commonly used as a show dog, but many people choose to take this dog as a companion.
Temperament

The Flat Coated Retriever is affectionate, energetic, and loving. It is an excellent companion for families with children, and makes for a good protective dog as well. It is stable, smart, and tends to stand strong during times of tension. The dog is smart, active, and friendly and bonds well with its owners and family members. It is often over-attentive to guests and strangers, and may come across as too strong at times. Still, these dogs are gentle and playful and enjoy keeping their owners and company happy. The Flat Coated Retriever is sweet and gentle, and will often take extra steps to be a happy companion. They are very cheerful by nature, and will always welcome new guests or company. They seem to maintain their puppy-like exuberance into their later years, and will always be found busy at work or play. These dogs enjoy spending time both indoors and outdoors, and are a very sociable breed. They need constant attention and affection, and they will tend to become bored or disinterested with inactivity. These dogs are highly trainable as they are so sensitive and responsive to their owners and surroundings. Keeping training sessions short and combining them with play is the best course of action for this bred. These dogs do get along well with other dogs and pets, so if there are multiple Flat Coated Retrievers within the family they can be trained as a group. These dogs are intelligent and will pick up new skills and behaviors with ease. They tend to work hard at projects and at play, but will seldom get excessively tired. Always ready to try new things, the Flat Coated Retriever fares well in new surroundings, environments, and settings.
Health Problems

The Flat Coated Retriever is a hardworking and generally healthy breed; they have a naturally strong stamina and will stay most healthy with plenty of Exercise and rest. Still, it is important to note that cancer is quite common in this breed. Regular tests and clearances for hereditary conditions are important, and these dogs will require these on a regular basis. There are also some special medical conditions to be aware of:
hip dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness.

 diabetes: this is occasionally found in the Flat Coated Retriever.

Epilepsy: a neurological seizure disorder. There is no test for this. Deafness: Congenital Deafness can be a problem. The most common types of cancers in these dogs include hemangiosarcoma, fibrosarcoma, malignant histiocytosis, and osteosarcoma. These seem to occur at higher rates in Flat Coated Retrievers than other breeds, and it is important to note that almost 75% of deaths are actually due to cancer. Grooming

The Flat Coated Retriever needs very little trimming but regular weekly brushings whenever possible. Their coat needs to be kept nice and tidy on a regular basis, especially after they have been outdoors for extended periods of time. It is important to use care when brushing after the dog is wet or has been in cold temperatures. A good brushing at least 4-5 times per week is ideal, as this will bring out the natural gloss and sheen of the dog. The breed is an average shedder, and the coat will change in luster and appearance throughout the seasons. The coat may tangle on occasion, but this simply requires additional brushing and perhaps a trim. Bathing and shampooing are only necessary when the dog is exceptionally dirty; these dogs tend to keep themselves clean on a regular basis, and taking them to a professional groomer can help to keep them in the best shape. A visit to the vet once per month will be helpful in keeping the dog as healthy as possible, and these dogs will also need to be checked for ticks on a regular basis.
Exercise

The Flat Coated Retriever needs daily exercise at least once or twice per day. Running, walking, jogging, sprinting, and playing with a Frisbee are ideal activities for this dog, and they make excellent jogging companions regardless of the weather. These dogs especially enjoy swimming and hunting, so taking them out to the forest or parks on a weekly basis will give them plenty of new environments to explore. These dogs also enjoy car rides, so taking the dog along on a camping adventure would be a real treat! Natural hunters, these dogs use all of their senses to enjoy a variety of activities. They have a tendency to follow their noses, but owners do not necessarily need to worry about this dog wandering too far as it will return home more often than not. Still, an untrained dog will need to remain on a leash during the majority of its excursions. These dogs are well-behaved and will listen to instructions quite well. It is important to train them consistently and encourage a variety of activities and exercises. These dogs are very playful and active, and are a joy to manage and grow with.

Working flatcoats usually get their fair share of exercise, and enjoy taking part in a variety of activities. These dogs are easy to work and will train well as a gundog or hunter.
Training

The Flat Coated Retriever has been bred as a sporting dog and is very active by nature. These dogs love to please but they can be difficult to train at times. They are bored easily, so it is important they have enough variety in training and activities on a regular basis. The Flat Coated Retriever develops a strong bond with its owners and masters, and will require consistency and direction, especially in its younger years. The dog's personality can be best described as devoted and outgoing. This is helpful when creating a training program for this dog at any age. Using toys and other objects as part of training can help them grasp new skills relatively easily. Rewards of food, new toys, and even trips to the park can be helpful motivators. The Flat Coated Retriever will get bored very easily with repetitive tasks, and they may even become willful at times. It is important to pay attention to positive reinforcement and motivation so that they are consistent. These dogs do respond best to positive reinforcement on a regular basis, and they are particularly sensitive to harsh tones or mannerisms. They cannot tolerate harsh handling or correction and will simply retreat when they feel too anxious or uncomfortable. These dogs are naturally happy and exuberant; it is important to train them appropriately so that they do not knock over items in the house, or even run into small children. Socialization is very important, and obedience training will help them learn the rules of the household. These dogs can be quite affectionate and fun-loving, so it is important to set some guidelines and respect through constructive training. Training the Flat Coat Retriever as a working gundog is another opportunity to make the most of this dog's natural talents and abilities. These dogs are especially strong and have strong stamina; they have a natural ability to learn and will do well with consistent training out on the field. These dogs use their own air scent abilities to track down and hunt, and this needs to be encouraged whenever possible. Teaching the dog to 'heel' is the first step in training both puppies and fully grown dogs. The dog will come to understand the direction only after demonstration and ongoing repetition. Too much, however, will result in ineffective training. It is important that the puppy has learned how to 'follow' his mother, whether this is its real mother or simply the owner or master. These dogs do well by performing with a pack leader, and they are especially responsive to consistency. Incorporating games and play into training will help with the activities for the Flat Coat Retriever. These dogs thoroughly enjoy bonding time with their owners, and will respond well to continuous attention, reinforcement, and affection.

Fox Terriers (Smooth)

Aliases: Smoothie, Fox Terrier, Fox Terrier (Smooth), Foxie, SFT

Life Span:15-17 years, though some have lived to be 20. Litter Size:4-7 puppies with the average being 5 puppies Group:Terrier, Terriers Recognized By:CKC, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The predominant smooth fox terrier coat color is white, though there is a significant amount of variation in the accent colors that may be present. This includes black, brown, tan, brindle or "liver" markings that may be found across the face, ears and back. The legs and underside are always white. Hair Length:Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:14-16 inches (36-41 cm) Male Weight:15-20 pounds (7-9 kg) Female Height:13-15 inches (33-38 cm) Female Weight:13-18 pounds (6-8 kg) Living Area:Smooth Fox terriers are small enough to adapt to apartment life as long as they get regular walks and trips to the park. They are capable of getting a lot of exercise in the home since they are so ready to play. They are ideally suited to suburban yards that are well fenced.
Description

The smooth Fox Terrier is, today, a trusted a ball o dog. These mid-sized terriers are renown for their determination and loyal demeanour. They are rather long lived and are very good with children and families. Foxies are very loving and can very often be found snuggling into the couch with a family member or chasing a ball or other toy in the house or yard, since they love to play. The fox terrier is the oldest and largest of the British terriers. They were bred as early as the 18th century to harass the namesake fox along with other small game. Their affectionate nature and dedication to their human families makes them a particularly good companion dog for many urban dwellers.

One of the oldest breeds recognized by an official kennel club, the smooth fox terrier bas been recognized in Great Britain since the late 1870s. They are very well adapted to the task of hunting small animals in a temperate climate. In fact, they were bred to flush foxes in a very hound-like manner, going to ground and barking like mad. They also possess great stamina, as they were bred to keep up with very energetic foxhounds. Smooth fox terriers are smart dogs, with lively, dark and intelligent eyes. Their coat is white, short all around, with brown or black markings around the face and back. Their heads are very tapered and come to a point. Ears are upright and folded over and they are very densely muscular, especially evident in their thick necks and strong jaws. Though they can be aggressive with other animals, they are never aggressive with people and can be trusted with the human members of the "pack." There are several related dogs that are descended from the foxie and many of the "yapping" terrier breeds can trace this trait back to the fox terrier that was bred to harass prey animals with their barks, nips and yips. Though not common today, the smooth-coat fox terrier continues to make a very good pet for many households that are keen to have a close associate that is good with the whole family. Those who live in the country will want to make sure they're not too near roads if they intend to let their dogs range, since foxys are so fixed upon prey that they have leapt in front of more than one car while on the chase.
Coat Description

The Smooth-haired fox terrier has a coat that is soft to the touch, close and thick. They shed, but not excessively so. Dead and shed hairs should be removed with regular brushing, especially during moulting events in the late spring and summer.
History

One of the oldest terrier breeds, fox terriers were used to flush foxes by snarling and barking at them until they fled their dens. It is thought they are descended from the crossing of several different kinds of hounds including dachshunds, beagles, English hounds and foxhounds. Though they are not very common today, the breed is significant since all other terriers in Britain are descended from the smooth foxie. They may be thought of as the missing link between hounds and terriers, possessing the characteristics of both. Though there are two coat types for fox terriers, they are actually considered different breeds (with observably distinct characteristics) in many kennel clubs such as the American Kennel Club that has made the distinction for over 20 years. Many now believe the two breeds are not closely related at all, with different parent dogs.

Temperament

Like most terriers, the smooth fox terrier is very interested in running off after anything that moves. This is part of the temperament that makes him or her a wonderful companion dog and sometimes, a challenge to keep sufficiently occupied. The foxie is very well bonded to their human families and very often becomes demanding of attention and affection, especially when not properly exercised. They can easily become jealous, and it is often best that they be only dogs. Jealously between dogs can cause some aggression and / or sulking. Smooth fox terriers that don't have enough exercise or attention can easily become destructive or begin engaging in excessive, non-stop barking in a shrill voice that your neighbours will not appreciate. They are also rather aggressive for terriers and should never be left unsupervised with other animals - even other dogs are in danger of experiencing the wrath of a smooth fox terrier. They will readily take on dogs much larger than themselves, often picking fights for no apparent reason with any other dog that dares challenge their position as top dog. Cats and other creatures are in constant danger from this breed that has been bred to independently keep the master's lands free of vermin. This breed is also very prone to excessive barking. Often this is a result of a smooth fox terrier that hasn't gotten the amount of love and affection they feel they deserve. They can have rather high affection demands, and it is often best to have several family members to share the "load" of attention. Families with young children will find this breed tolerant of and ready to play with children of all ages. The smooth fox terrier loves to play, and can actually satisfy many of their exercise requirements indoors. They love to chase balls and retrieve toys. Though all fox terriers will try and escape from a confined yard, intact males are especially prone to roving and should be very carefully kept on a lead or behind a very strong fence. They make very good guard dogs, though they can be rather stubborn and wilful at times. This makes training difficult for many older people. As such, fox terriers of all sorts are not recommended for people who don't have the time and willpower to dedicate to their early training.
Health Problems

There are very few congenital disorders that the smooth fox hound suffers from, though some non-lethal ailments have popped up in a few Breeding lines.
Deafness: dogs that are nearly all white have a somewhat high incidence of Deafness.

Grooming

Their coat is rather short and sheds, unlike other terriers. This means that grooming is a very simple affair for the smooth fox terrier. Usually only a quick brushing with a bristle comb every few weeks to remove the dead undercoat hear every week or two is necessary. There is no need to visit a professional groomer, so most smooth fox terrier owners will find themselves performing most of the other grooming tasks, as well. Fox terriers with smooth coats will require having their nails cut on a regular basis. While the animals that get out for regular walks on cement or asphalt tend to wear them down sufficiently, the rear nails and dewclaws should be regularly checked to make sure they're not curling around. This can be especially problematic on the dewclaws that can grow around and right into the leg. It is important to get puppies used to having their paws touched and handled so nail trimming won't be such a major chore when they're larger. Positive reinforcement for good, calm behaviour is the best way to encourage this in fox terriers or, any other breed of dog. There is no point in punishing a dog for fussing over their nails. Thankfully, the smooth fox terrier has white nails so you can see and avoid the quick with far greater ease than a breed with black toenails. Smooth fox terrier ears are folded over and should be checked every few weeks to make sure there hasn't been a build up of earwax on the outside of the ear canal. It is always a good idea to make sure the ears haven't taken on a foul, yeasty odour, as this can indicate an ear problem that will require medical intervention, such as ear mites. Generally your fox terrier will only require a monthly ear cleaning. This is best accomplished with a gauze pad very gently wiping around the outside of the ear structure. Never, ever go digging inside your dog's ear canal with a q-tip. Since it's not your own ear, you could cause some serous damage to the eardrum, even causing wax to get pushed behind the tympanic membrane. The tail is normally docked when they are very little, though some breeders who are interested in breeding a companion rather than a show animal, may choose not to. There is no medical reason this is done other than keeping the tail from getting caught in doors or knocking things off your coffee table.
Exercise

While the smooth fox terrier doesn't require excessive amounts of exercise, it is important that they receive some sort of organized exercise every single day, without fail. This is a breed that can immediately begin acting out if they're not sufficiently stimulated every day, mentally and physically. They do love to run, but should always do so in a fenced yard since they will take off after any small creature in the underbrush, and you'll be hard pressed to call them off. This is especially dangerous near traffic, and smooth fox terriers that live in urban or suburban areas will need to

be kept in the yard or on the lead no matter what. As such, it is vitally important that you train your dog to walk on a lead from a very young age so they view walks on the leash as treat rather than a punishment of some sort.
Training

The smooth fox terrier is rather intelligent and can be among the most wilfull of dogs. As such, their training is often a matter of butting wills, and you must never let your foxie get the better of you. It is vitally important you maintain consistency in training. If you want your dog to do something, he or she had better do it - never ever just give up or your fox terrier pup will soon realize you're a pushover and don't have to be listened to. There should be no reason to holler at your smooth fox terrier. They generally want to please though they loose the ability to hear you or anyone when they're on the trail of prey. Training is best accomplished in this breed when done in a playful manner with positive re-enforcement, rewarding each correct act and simply ignoring the dog when it behaves badly. Foxies hate to be shunned and turning your back on them, depriving them of attention, is the worst punishment you can dole out, though it's best to not take it too far, since they can become overwrought when they're left alone too long. A dog in this state cannot learn and should be sufficiently calmed down with exercise and attention before training can begin again. Housebreaking is usually a matter of being very nearby during the process so you or another family member is ready to pick up any sign. Many owners have had good luck with crate training. As long as the crate is the right size and you give a lot of praise and love when they go outside, the process shouldn't be a major problem, since they're very clever dogs that don't have bladder problems. Giving your dog ample opportunity to do the right thing while minimizing the opportunity to do wrong may seem like you're limiting your foxy's exposure to the world, but it is absolutely necessary if he or she is to be welcome elsewhere. And socialization from a very early age, especially with other dogs and visitors to your home, is vitally important. As a breed, smooth fox terriers are prone to not getting along with other dogs, so the more dogs you give your pup a chance to meet, the more likely he or she is to accept other dogs and not try to dominate them all. Early training is indispensable in this regard.

Fox Terriers (Wire)

Aliases: Fox Terrier Wire Coat, Wire, Wire Haired Fox Terrier, Foxie
Life Span:15 years or more.

Litter Size:3 and 6 puppies. Group:Terrier Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The typical coloring for the Wire Fox Terrier is white with black or brown markings.

Hair Length:Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:14-16 inches Male Weight:15-20 pounds Female Height:13-15 inches Female Weight:13-18 pounds Living Area:The Wire Fox Terrier can live in either a house or an apartment style environment. They are quite active indoor animals and therefore will do fine without a yard. However, if they do live in an environment without a yard, it is important for them to be outside and obtain sufficient exercise. This could be just a long walk a day or a romp through the park. If they are living in an environment with a yard, letting them outside to run around in the yard daily is plenty of exercise. However, the Wire Fox Terrier should not be left outside alone because they are likely to bark and try to dig their way out.
Description

The Wire Fox Terrier is an elegant and well built dog. It has a lot of strength compacted into a small structure. They are hunting and tracking dogs by nature and therefore are built with agility and many other hunting qualities. They have strong well developed jaws and teeth, eagerness, and physical strength. Above all else though, they pack a lot of courage. These are considered its weapons of attack. The eyes are dark, small, and deep set. Their neck is thick and extremely muscular. The skull is flat, tapering, and narrow skull. The ears are v-shaped and fold forward. The hair on the upper and lower jaws should only be long enough to give the impression of strength. The length of the coat depends on the climate, owner's preference, seasons, and individual animal but is typically 3/4-1 inch on the shoulders and neck. The coat is a longer 1.5 inches on the back, quarters, withers, and ribs. The chest should be deep but not too broad or too narrow. The brisket should be deep, the front ribs arched moderately, and the back ribs should be deep and well sprung. The shoulders should

slope steeply down towards the points, which should be fine. A shoulder that is well laid back combined with a short back is considered very desirable in the Wire Fox Terrier. Hindquarters should be strong and muscular with long and powerful thighs. The feet should be round and compact with pads that are tough and well-cushioned. The gait of the Wire Fox Terrier is crucial. They should be carried straight forward while traveling with forelegs that hang perpendicular and swinging parallel to the sides. This gives the look of a pendulum clock. The power and propulsion of the Wire Fox Terrier is derived from its powerful and long thighs.
Coat Description

The best coat for the Wire Fox Terrier is one that appears to be broken, with hairs that have a tendency to twist. The texture should be dense and wiry resembling coconut matting. It should be so dense that when the hair is parted the skin cannot be seen. The undercoat is found at the base of the thick hairs that is softer and finer.
History

The Wire Fox Terrier originated in England in the 1800's. Before the introduction of the Wire Fox Terrier fox hunting would end as soon as the fox reached the hole. The Wire Fox Terrier was bred to assist in fox hunting. The Wire Fox Terrier was bred from the Smooth Fox Terrier and the Rough-Coated Tan and Black Terrier. If the fox reached the hole and went into the ground, the Terrier would be sent in after it. Terriers needed to have stamina to run with the foxhounds and they also needed to be small enough to follow the fox down into its lair. Lastly, the Terrier needed to be tough. The fox would view the Wire Fox Terrier as an intruder and would fight back. The Terrier needed to be stronger than the fox and conquer the animal. The fox would eventually flee from its lair and the hunters would then be able to hunt the fox. The Wire Fox Terrier would achieve this by snapping, growling, and lunging at the fox. They are sometimes regarded as the same breed as the Smooth Fox Terrier although in the United States the two breeds have been differentiated since 1986.
Temperament

The Wire Fox Terrier is a happy, eager to please, excitable dog. They are always eager to play and make excellent pets for the active person. They do have a streak of dominance in them and therefore they can become frustrating if they are able to obtain the upper hand in the household. They were originally bred for hunting and tracking and love to dig under fences, in the garden, and even through sofas if the mood strikes them. If they get out of the yard they are gone. The owners need to be patient and have a good sense of humor. It is said that only a very specific type of person can put up with the antics of the Wire Fox Terrier. Because of their nature as hunting dogs, they are driven to chase smaller animals such as squirrels, rabbits, or cats. For this reason, the Wire Fox Terrier cannot be trusted off leash. They need to be leashed at all times because they will run away and chase small animals or start altercations with larger dogs. They can be quite aggressive with a great deal of courage. They

will not back down even to dogs that are several times their size. Despite all of this, they are very cheerful and excitable dogs and can brighten even the darkest of days. There are some cautions to be aware of in the Wire Fox Terrier. Although they are said to make excellent family pets and they do love to play, especially with children, they are known to bite. The Wire Fox Terrier should always be supervised around children for this reason. They will react if they are being bothered or pestered. In addition to this, they excessively bark. They are quick to bark at any new sight or sound, so the owner must be equally as fast to stop them. For this reason, the Wire Fox Terrier should not be left outside alone because their barks can be very high pitched and cause annoyance for neighbors and owners. Furthermore, the Wire Fox Terrier has strong defense reactions. For instance, if the Terrier feelings like they were reprimanded beyond what was necessary they are more likely to growl and snap than other breeds. The root of this could be found that they were taught to always be more aggressive than their prey.
Health Problems Epilepsy: Causes seizures.

Cataracts: Causes cloudiness to the lens of the eye and can result in vision loss. Legg Perthes disease: Extreme muscle loss in the legs.

distichiasis: Extra hairs growing on the edge of the eyelid. They can cause pressure and discomfort to the eye. Post Nasal Drip

Deafness Grooming

Maintenance for the Wire Fox Terrier is quite low unless you are planning on having it as a show dog. For pet owners who do not intend to show the dog, regular brushing and bathing when necessary is all that is needed. The dog can be brushed with a firm bristle brush about twice a week. To keep the coat looking its best and to keep it healthy it is important for the hair to be stripped several times a year. This can be done by a professional groomer if the owner is unsure or does not want to tackle that element of care. Grooming for show is a much more complex procedure. When bathing the dog, it should always be washed and rinsed twice. The first wash is to get rid of the dirt and the second is to bring brightness and color to the coat. A high quality specialty shampoo should be used for the Wire Fox Terrier because they are prone to skin irritation. If the dog does have some skin irritation

there are medicated shampoos that can be used. Blow drying is the best method for drying the coat of the Wire Fox Terrier because it allows some straightening of the coat. Before clipping a dog for the show, it should always be combed out first. If the comb is not easily going through then there are mats that need to be removed. There are special sprays that can help break down the mats and make the combing process a little easier. However, if the dog is brushed regularly, this should not be necessary. It is essential for the ears to be cleaned and for the hair in the ears to be removed. There is ear powder that can be used and then your fingers to pull the ear hair out. The hair on the neck should be clipped first all the way around. Then continue down the back, down the rib cage, but leaving the chest hair. Then the shoulders should be clipped down to the elbow. The front of the chest can then be clipped even with the elbow. Then the tail can be entirely trimmed. For clipping the head, clip from the corner of the eye to the edge of the mouth. Then shave the top of the head but do not shave the eyebrows. Then the belly, inside of the legs, and groin area can be trimmed. It is important not to go past the start of the rib cage. In males the penis needs to be shaven. With females be very careful not to clipper off their nipples. If this is an intimidating process, there are many professionals that can groom the Wire Fox Terrier to show standards for you.
Exercise

The Wire Fox Terrier is a very active and lively breed. It was originally bred for hunting and tracking and therefore enjoys being outdoors. They are known to be very active indoors as well as outdoors. Having a fenced yard does help as they can run and play outside, but they should not be left alone due to their excessive barking and digging. They are quite happy going for long walks but must always be kept on a leash. Their hunting instincts will kick in and they will take off without notice to chase any small animals. The Wire Fox Terrier needs consistent training and so an excellent way to get in exercise and training is to have the dog enrolled in an obedience training class. There are also clubs available for Terriers so that they can indulge in their love of chasing small vermin without actually harming any smaller animals.
Training

Training for the Wire Fox Terrier can be a difficult process if you are training them from the time they are a puppy. Puppies have very sharp teeth that can cause a lot of damage and they are also very difficult to house train. It is important that the owner of the Wire Fox Terrier consider staying at home with the dog most of the time at the beginning. The Wire Fox Terrier is known to snap at children as well as other people who reprimand the dog so it is important to socialize the dog from an early age as well as have very consistent and constant training. The training of the Wire Fox Terrier should include obedience tasks because they are highly intelligent and energetic. It is important that the owner or handler of the dog learn to properly raise the dog because the Wire Fox Terrier has a very stubborn and independent nature. They will force you to prove that you can teach them how to do something. It is also important to learn how to properly reprimand the dog to prevent or reduce the likelihood of them snapping or

growling at you. Due to the difficult training nature of this breed of dog and the aggression that it can show, it is suggested that this dog is not for the first time owner. It should be in the household of a very patient and experienced handler.

French Bulldogs
Aliases: Frenchie, Little Clown ,Frog Dogs
Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:3-5 puppies Group:Non-Sporting Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC Color:Brindle, Brindle and White, Fawn and White, and any color except solid Black, Mouse, Liver, Black and Tan , Black and White, and White with Black ( without a trace of Brindling ) Hair Length:Short Size:Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:19-22 (9-10kg.) Male Weight:22-28 pounds (10-13kg.). Female Height:19-22 (9-10kg.) Female Weight:22-28 pounds (10-13kg.). Living Area:French Bulldogs do best as an indoor dog. Frenchies tend to overheat easily, and do not fair well in cold weather.
Description

The French Bulldog is compact, sturdy, and heavily boned. He is short and cobby, with a small to medium build. The height at the withers, should be approximately the same as the length from withers to tail-set. Massive chest, with tapering hindquarters. French Bulldogs have large, rounded bat-like ears, square flat heads with a slightly domed forehead, large rounded eyes, and flat muzzle. French Bulldogs are a smooth coated breed. The French Bulldog has the appearance of an intelligent, alert, active and curious nature. Frenchies are hardy and robust little busybodies. The French Bulldog can have a corkscrew tail or a straight tail. Although bred as a

companion , they can also make a good watchdog, and will sound off at any potential sign of danger to their families.
Coat Description

Moderately fine, short and smooth. Skin is soft and loose, especially at the head and shoulders, forming wrinkles. The French Bulldog does shed their coats during the change of the seasons and can continue throughout the year. The hair is fine and not as noticeable as other breeds.
History

There is much speculation as to the origin of the French Bulldog. The most prevalent is that it originates from the miniature bulldog that was brought to France by Nottingham lace workers during the industrial revolution. When the workers of Nottingham moved to France in search of work, they brought their smaller bulldogs with them because they were suited to the cramped living conditions, and were excellent ratters. In the 1860's, the export of miniature bulldogs became so popular, that they practically became extinct in England. They were then thought to have been crossed with a native breed, the Terrier Boule , and eventually giving rise to the French Bulldog. It soon became a star of the working class Parisians society. Its physique, small size, and enchanting personality, soon made this little petite Boule the darling of flat faced breed fanciers. As the new smaller breed bulldog gained in popularity in France, they quickly gained favor with the "ladies of the night". The French Bulldog made its first appearance in the united states in 1896 at the Westminster Kennel Club show in New York. In England, the French Bulldog Club was formed in 1902.
Temperament

The French Bulldog is an extreme lover. He is affectionate, playful and demanding of attention, from all that he comes into contact with. He does not do well left alone in a backyard. A Frenchie needs the constant companionship of his family. He makes an excellent companion for children, although very small children may not tolerate his over enthusiastic nature. He generally gets along well with other animals, as long as they are of as playful a nature as he is. They are generally not given to excessive barking. They will protect their homes and alert owners to intruders as well as when people are at the door. They do not sound vicious, but do have a deep bark. Most Frenchies tend to sit back and let others make a commotion. They are often referred to as "little clowns," and a more fitting description could not be found. The Frenchie is at his utmost content when he is being showered with affection. he will return the favor to his utmost capabilities. He is a true lapdog, an extreme lover, a bodyguard, a playful companion, and a true "best friend".
Health Problems Elongated Soft Palate stenotic nares Hemivertebrae and Premature Disc Degeneration

 patellar luxation Pyometra Difficulty whelping Allergies. Some common Health Problems in the French Bulldog are respiratory and eye problems. If they become overweight, they can have trouble with their breathing. This is caused when the abdomen becomes swollen and pushes on their lungs. They can also be gassy, snore and wheeze. Females may have to have a caesarean for the birth of the puppies because the puppy's heads are rather large. In some French Bulldogs, a surgery can be preformed to widen the nostrils for better breathing. This does help the bulldog cool better in heat. Their breathing greatly improves and they have fewer problems with Snoring and wheezing. Some bulldogs are prone to skin dryness that results in small bald spots. A vet can prescribe a medication to relieve the dry skin. Grooming

The French Bulldog requires minimal grooming. A weekly brushing should be done to remove the loose hair, and stimulate the oils in the skin. This will help prevent the skin from becoming dry, flaky and itchy. A once a month bath with a mild soap is all that is needed. Too much bathing can dry out the skin. Nails should be kept trimmed, and the pads of the feet checked often, to ensure that there are no cracking. Frenchies have folds that also need to be kept clean. Gently lift the folds and swab the area with a cotton swab, to be sure that it does not become a breeding ground for bacteria. The ears should be kept clean to avoid infections. Check the ears daily by looking inside them. Make sure they are pink, then gently swab the inner ear with a damp cotton swab. If you notice any symptoms such as a foul smelling odor or discharge, contact your vet for advice. Never push cotton buds deep into the ear canal. The eyes should be clear. If a discharge is noted, gently swab the eye area. If the condition persists, contact your veterinarian, to be sure that there are no developing problems.
Exercise

The French bulldog is not the breed to run along side you as you are jogging. They enjoy short walks when the air temperature is moderate. Never expose a Frenchie to higher heat as they are prone to heat stroke. They do well with a short walk and a long nap to follow. They are heavy headed and do not swim. Frenchies have been known to drown when left unattended near water sources. Lakes, rivers, pools, etc, should be considered a danger to your French bulldog. they should always be closely guarded when near a swimming pool or lake. although Frenchies love to play, playtime must be limited . They will tend to over exert themselves, and breathing becomes difficult for them. French bulldogs require a "downtime" after and form of exercise.

This is an excellent time to calm and cuddle them. They will never turn down any form of affection.
Training

French Bulldogs can be stubborn and hard headed. They are not easy to train, and have a hard time learning to act on command. You must be more stubborn than your Frenchie ! Some people suggest crate training as the best source of getting the lesson learned. You can expect four or more months of consistent crate training. Frenchies do not like to take orders. They have a hard time adhering to the task at hand and are easily distracted. Owners of this little bully breed , should have a strong will and an endless supply of patience. Learning to obey basic commands is something that must be taught with this breed. Puppy classes are a good way to socialize Your puppy as well as learning the basic social skills needed in developing a good relationship with your French Bulldog. A Frenchie with bad manners, does not make for a pleasant companion. Males should be neutered if they will not be bred. This helps with the task of housebreaking. They need to learn that it is not acceptable behavior to jump on houseguests, Inspect the contents of the trash can, or use the dirty laundry as they do their chew toys. Teaching them at an early age will have far greater results and can make living with your Frenchie a pleasant and rewarding experience. There happy go lucky personality is a plus for training.

German Pinschers
Aliases: Standard Pinscher
Life Span:12-14 years Litter Size:6-8 puppies Group:Working Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:A solid fawn (Isabella) to a darker red color, stag red (red with black hairs mixed throughout) black or blue with tan to red markings. No other colors are allowed and no white markings are permissible. Hair Length:Short Size: Shedding: Male Height:Males 17-20 inches (41-49 cm) Male Weight:Males and Females 25-35 pounds (11-16 kg)

Female Height:Females 17-20 inches (41-49 cm) Female Weight:Females 25-35 pounds (11-16 kg) Living Area:House or apartment, needs to be indoors in cold climates and requires a very secure, well fenced yard when outdoors.
Description

The German Pinscher is a sleek, athletic and very balanced looking dog. While smaller in size than the Doberman Pinscher, they do bear more than a slight resemblance to the breed. The German Pinscher may have the same black and tan color as the Doberman, but may also be red, fawn to yellow or blue with tan or red markings. The head of the German Pinscher is very finely chiseled, bluntly wedge shaped, and very proportional to the neck and body. The skull is flat on the top between the ears and is not domed or rounded. The ears, if left natural, are V-shaped with a fold, and if cropped are carried very erect and towards the center of the skull. The eyes are slightly oval in shape and moderately large and well set, not bulging or protruding from the skull. They are usually a dark brown color, but in the lighter colors some variations can occur. The muzzle is equal in length to the top part of the skull and ends in a blunt wedge shape. The neck is long and carried very high over the chest with a gentle arch that adds elegance to the dog's carriage and appearance. The chest is deep and low and blends into well developed shoulders and well sprung ribs. The topline or back of the German Pinscher is short and slopes slightly from the tips of the shoulders to the hips, but the dog does not appear to be crouching on the hindquarters. The legs are strong, straight and well boned with visible muscling but not a cobby or bulky appearance. The tail, if left natural, is long and tapers to a fine point. Both docked and natural tails are carried at a level above a horizontal line drawn from the hips. The gait of the German Pinscher is one of grace and power, with a smooth and fluid movement. The feet do not cross over each other in the gait and remain parallel when standing or in motion. The toes are compact and short, arching somewhat in the center like the feet of a cat.
Coat Description

The coat is very sleek and short and is uniform over the entire body. Each hair is very flat against the body and may be soft to harsh to the touch. The coat should have a natural gleam and sheen and there should be no bald patches on the coat.
History

The German Pinscher can be traced back to the late 1700's and was officially recognized as a breed in its homeland in 1879. The first German Pinschers were recognized by the combination German Pinscher Schnauzer Club as the breed was used in the development of the Schnauzer as well as the Doberman and Miniature Pinscher. In the development of the Schnauzer and the

German Pinscher it was not uncommon for litters to have the smooth haired Pinschers and the rough coated puppies, which would later become the Schnauzer breed. Once there was a clear distinction between the two breeds the German Pinscher Schnauzer Club required at least three generations of smooth coated dogs in a line to be considered a true Pinscher. The breed standard was then developed in 1959 and originally included two additional colors, a pure black and a black and silver. During the years of World War l and ll, the German Pinscher almost became extinct, however one dedicated breeder, Werner Jung, was able to smuggle out a dog and breed him with other Pinscher breed females to retain the standard. It was during this recovery period that the solid black and black and silver (silberpinsch) colors were lost from the genetic lines. The German Pinscher was originally bred by the farming families of Germany to work as a larger, heavier ratter and protector for the farms. The dog's intelligence, natural athletic ability and their compact size made them ideally suited to hunt in barns and around the farms. They were also historically used as herding dogs and guardians for livestock. German Pinschers were not brought to America until the early 1970's and the German Pinscher Club of America was not formally established until 1985. The breed was not formally recognized by the American Kennel Club until 2003.
Temperament

The German Pinscher is a loyal, lovable and playful dog that truly enjoys being with the family. They are a great dog with older children but due to their smaller size and terrier temperament they are not recommended for houses with very small kids that may tease or play rough with the dog. Despite being a terrier and a natural hunter and ratter, the German Pinscher is much more people oriented than most terriers. They are calm and sedate in the house and love to be in the center of the action without being hyperactive or demanding of attention. The German Pinscher has a natural playful streak that makes them and ideal family dog and companion. Highly intelligent, they are generally easy to train but may be somewhat stubborn and strong willed at times. Like most Pinschers, the German Pinscher is a natural watchdog and a good guard dog even though they are small in physical size. They have a tendency to bark at strangers and will protect what they deem to be their own space and property. Some German Pinschers may become very possessive of their food and toys, so training must start with regards to establishing the human as the "alpha dog" from a young age. The German Pinscher can be dominant with other dogs but with early socialization is a great companion dog for other canines and even cats. Since they are a ratter by nature, they are not suited to homes with small rodent pets.
Health Problems

The German Pinscher has been carefully bred and is not prone to many of the genetic conditions that are found in many of the terrier and Pinscher breeds. hip dysplasia is one of the more common Health Problems found in the German Pinscher and any males or females should be certified as clear from the condition before being bred.

Like with hip dysplasia, testing the eyes for Cataracts should be done before Breeding. Cataract problems are inherited, just like hip dysplasia, and any dog with the condition should be spayed or neutered as soon as possible. Like hip dysplasia, there are surgical and medical treatments to manage and treat the condition and it is not life threatening. Even dogs that gradually lose their eyesight will adjust and can continue to live happy lives with a little care and attention from owners. Since the German Pinscher is a relatively uncommon breed, it is important to check with the breeders and ensure there are no Health conditions in the bloodlines. The breeder can provide a complete medical history of the mother and father, ideally try to go back three to five generations and check for any Health Problems.
Grooming

Grooming the German Pinscher is very easy but does require a routine to remove old, dead hair from the coat. A grooming glove or a soft bristle brush is ideal to remove the hair and keep the coat shiny and healthy. Only bathe the dog when necessary and use specially formulated dog shampoo and conditioner. Over bathing can result in a dry, brittle coat and may lead to skin problems such as hot spots and irritated patches of skin. Grooming should also include checking the nails and clipping as necessary. The eyes, ears and teeth should also be cleaned and checked on a regular basis.
Exercise

The German Pinscher is a playful and energetic dog that does require moderate amounts of time outside in a fenced yard or longer, brisk walks at least once and ideally two or three times a day. They will be rather sedate in the house however they can resort to chewing and destructive behaviors if kept confined or isolated in small spaces for too long. The German Pinscher is naturally very athletic and makes an excellent jogging or hiking companion. They love to get out and run, but due to their terrier nature they will often chase and not return on command, so a high, secure fence or a long lead is highly recommended. These dogs can jump as well as climb and they love a challenge when it comes to physical activity. The German Pinscher will excel at dog sports such as Frisbee, Flyball and fetch as well as games such as hide and seek. Since they do have a tendency to be somewhat dominant games of strength such as tug of war or rough play is not recommended, especially when younger children are involved simply because the dog may respond more aggressively than normal in these types of situations.
Training

The German Pinscher is a very intelligent dog that will have an almost uncanny ability to sense what owners are going to do and ask. These dogs are ideally suited for obedience training as well as agility events, however they do need to be properly socialized and trained. Training the

German Pinscher requires a good understanding of working with dominant dog breeds as the German Pinscher has to learn that he or she is not in charge. They need consistency and a firm trainer, but do best with positive training methods that focus on what the dog is doing right and not using any type of punishment based training. Correction is done by a firm tone of voice and withholding of attention or rewards until the dog performs as per the command. A key component of the German Pinscher training needs to be socialization with other dogs, people and animals. Without proper socialization the German Pinscher will become very dog aggressive and may also become possessive of their toys, food and area, even with people they know. Working with the dog and completing obedience work and routine socialization will prevent any potential problems. When socialized these are wonderful companion dogs that need little if any training to be watchdogs and with some training can be very effective guard dogs. The German Pinscher can also be taught to herd and hunt. In obedience classes and other competitive events the breed does exceptionally well as their natural ability and intelligence is highlighted.

German Shepherd Dogs

Aliases: Alsatian
Life Span:13-15 years. Litter Size:7 - 8 puppies on average Group:Herding Group Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:German Shepherd Dogs come in various colors, with strong dark colors preferred. All colors are permissible except white, though a small white patch on the chest is allowed. Black and tan is the most popular and most common color. Hair Length:Medium Size:Large, Extra Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:24-26 inches Male Weight:77-85 pounds Female Height:22-24 inches

Female Weight:77-85 pounds Living Area:Because they are fairly inactive indoors, German Shepherd Dogs are perfectly happy as indoor dogs, even in an apartment. These dogs are agile and can be in tight situations without appearing clumsy. However, they do need access to exercise, so if you live in a place where the dog does not have access to a yard, it's imperative that you walk or run with him.
Description

The German Shepherd Dog is a very strong and alert breed. They have a noble appearance with a strong and chiseled head. They have medium sized eyes that are dark and almond shaped. Their ears are somewhat pointed and open toward the front. They stand very erect when at attention. Their skulls are sloped into a long wedge shaped muzzle. Their noses are black and they have strongly developed jaws with teeth that meet in a scissors bite. The German Shepherd dog has a strong neck that is muscular and long, but always in proportion to the rest of his body. Their chests are deep and filled out. Their legs are strong and muscular and their feet are short and compact. German Shepherd Dogs should always be longer than he is tall. The most desirable proportion is 10 to 8 1/2 length in proportion to height. A female German Shepherd Dog should look decidedly female, and a male German Shepherd Dog should look decidedly male, particularly when you look at their heads. Today, there are German lines of this breed and American lines. The German lines of the German Shepherd Dog tend to be larger dogs with a broader head and darker coat. Dogs with the American line are typically smaller and have less sloping in their hips, which is a traditional German Shepherd Dog characteristic. American lines also show more silver with black coat coloring, whereas the German lines are nearly always black and tan.
Coat Description

The German Shepherd Dog has a medium length double coat, which sheds constantly. During seasonal changes, shedding will be even heavier. The undercoat is typically a silvery gray and should not be visible through the outer coat. Their outer coat is very dense and has a somewhat coarse feeling to it. The hair is straight and lies close to the body. You'll sometimes find longer hair on the rear of the legs. Hair is thicker and longer around the neck. White is considered an improper color in this breed because being colored white would prevent a German Shepherd Dog from excelling at tasks for which the dog was bred. The dogs were originally bred as mountain herding dogs - and a white coat would have been invisible in the snow. In addition, they were bred to be watchdogs, another task where the color white is inappropriate because it makes the dog too visible. However, there is a separate breed called the White German Shepherd. It is not recognized by the AKC, but is recognized by the UKC.

History

The German Shepherd Dog breed is an adaptation of the mountain sheepdog of Germany, altered for work as a military dog around 1880. Three regions of Germany became famous for breeding these dogs; Wurtemberg, Thurginia and Bavaria. The dogs from these areas, including long hair, short hair and wire haired herding dogs were used to produce the German shepherd we know today. Captain Max Von Stephanitz is often referred to as the "Father of the German Shepherd". In April 1899, he registered a dog named Horan as the first Deutsche Schaferhunde, which means German Shepherd Dog, so the word "dog" is actually part of the breed's name. In 1925 he wrote a book, "The German Shepherd Dog in Word and Picture", which immortalized the breed. Von Stephanitz was a noted disciplinarian and headed the Society for the Promotion of the Breeding of German Shepherd dogs from its founding in 1899 until 1935. He guided and directed an intensive-breeding program to fix type and was adamant in his demands for utility and intelligence. Even today, this breed of dog is known for being one that is very reliable in terms of behaving and performing to type. After WWII, the popularity waned due to their association with Hitler and his reign of terror. It was during these post WWII years that the British changed the dog's name to Alsatian, and then later to Alsatian Wolf Dog, to remove the stigma of having the word German in their name. In America the breed was well established before World War I. The German Shepherd Dog Club of America came into being in 1913 with 26 members. Today local clubs together with the Parent Club continue to guide the breeding of this dog. Until 1915, both long-haired and wirehaired varieties were exhibited. Today, in most countries, only the short coat is recognized for show purposes. When you choose your own German Shepherd Dog, choosing a reputable breeder is paramount. These dogs have been consistently popular for many years, and there have been many suspect breeding programs created as a result. When dogs are poorly bred, they are subject to health problems like hip dysplasia and are often not representative of the true nature of the breed. For example, German Shepherd Dogs are occasionally prone to skittishness. This behavior is far from the norm of this typically steady and calm breed. Reputable breeders, if they had a skittish puppy, would never breed it, in an attempt to breed this behavior out, rather than in. Breeders looking just to make a quick buck, however, are not so careful about how their dogs are bred.
Temperament

The German Shepherd Dog has a distinct personality. They are confident and strong in their behavior as well as in their appearance. They are typically fearless, but they are also fiercely loyal and protective. They are extremely eager to please, particularly once you've established yourself as the "alpha dog". A German Shepherd Dog will fight to the death for the life of his owner and is strong enough that he may well win the battle. They can appear somewhat aloof, particularly with strangers, and they take time to get to know new people before they let their guard down. This dog is incredibly alert - he never misses

anything that goes on around him, which is one of the reasons this breed makes the perfect watchdog. Once bonded to an owner, a German Shepherd Dog makes a wonderful companion. Many people think of this breed as simply a watchdog or police dog, but they actually make great family pets if they are properly trained. They are loyal and protective, but also sweet and loving with their families. They are very good with children and do quite well with other pets in the home. They do not like to be left alone for long periods of time, so they should be allowed to interact with their families on a regular basis. This breed has a very calm and steady temperament, so once trained, they can be relied on to behave appropriately wherever you take them. The German Shepherd Dog's body and strength make it well suited for working and they have been used for years as working dogs. They are often used for police work, as security dogs, as herding dogs, as service dogs for the blind and hearing impaired and as military dogs. This dog's intelligence, sense of smell and work ethic make him suited to nearly any task you'd choose to train him for.
Health Problems

German Shepherd Dogs are prone to hip dysplasia. This problem is mostly the result of indiscriminate Breeding programs. Before purchasing a German Shepherd Dog puppy, be certain that both parents have their hips certified OFA good at the very least. They are also prone to blood disorders, digestive problems and chronic eczema. Overall, however, if you choose your dog from a reputable breeder, he should be healthy overall.
Grooming

Your German shepherd Dog will benefit from a quick brushing about twice a week. If he is not brushed regularly, you'll find lots of short dark hairs in your house, and you may also find that his undercoat, particularly on his stomach and around his neck becomes matted. Find a brush that is good at removing hair, as wells as one that your dog enjoys being brushed with. During the shedding season, you'll want to use a shedding blade or rake daily to keep the excess hair at bay. The blade should be placed on the German Shepherd Dog and lightly pulled back in the direction of the hair growth, with only the slightest pressure. Shedding rakes are particularly helpful because they also massage the skin and distribute the oil throughout the coat. Occasionally, you can scissor any long hairs under the German Shepherd Dog's feet even with the pads and trim the hair on the back of the hock with thinning shears to neaten the overall appearance of the feet and to keep the hair in that area from becoming matted. German Shepherd Dogs should be bathed rarely; maybe once or twice a year. Bathing too often can cause the natural oil in their fur to become depleted. When you do bathe them, using a slicker brush after their bath is particularly effective. You will get a lot of excess hair off right after bathing. Once the dog is dry, they look great if their coat is finished by shining it with a chamois cloth for shine. Some owners also spray on a light coat of mink oil at this time.

Exercise

The German Shepherd Dog is a strong and athletic breed, and they do need exercise. A large yard for running or daily walks with their owner will keep them healthy and strong. Because of their intelligence, they love a challenge and will do quite well at many different activities including agility training, tracking and obedience training. In addition to providing the mental challenge this dog needs, these activities ensure that he gets proper exercise, as well.
Training

The German Shepherd Dog is one of the most intelligent breeds of dog and one of the easiest to train. Training should begin at a young age, and should be handled with patience and consistency. Because they are so intelligent, it's important to train them firmly from the very beginning. However, overly harsh correction will only make the dog stubborn and willful, so it's best that you be patient and praise his good efforts. He will likely housetrain very quickly, particularly if you crate train him. This breed is so intelligent and so enjoys a mental challenge that they can be trained to do nearly anything; a fact that is proven by the many jobs they've had over the years. Many people associate German Shepherd Dogs with being aggressive watchdogs, but this behavior is the result of training. A German Shepherd Dog will always be protective of his family and will always be wary of strangers, but they are not aggressive by nature. Because they are wary of strangers, socialization should begin at an early age. It is important for your German Shepherd Dog to be intuitive about your reactions to people who come into your home. Once your dog learns your reactions, he will gauge his own, and your friends will be his friends. However, if he senses that you're concerned, he'll be concerned and as protective as he believes is required. This is one dog that will consistently take cues from his owner. So, over time, the two of you will become fast friends and you'll be able to rely on your German Shepherd Dog's behavior. Playing games and participating in activities is an important part of bonding with your German Shepherd Dog. He will want to be active, and will enjoy participating in activities with you. Because of his great sense of smell, "find" is a perfect game for this breed. But, he'll also love to fetch and play ball and Frisbee. German Shepherd Dogs have a great sense of humor, so you'll both get lots of enjoyment out of simply having fun together. The German Shepherd Dog is a very fast runner and also has great endurance. If you're a runner, this dog will be your best running companion ever.

German Shorthaired Pointers

Aliases: German Short-haired Pointing Dog, Deutsch Kurzhaar, Deutscher kurzhaariger Vorstehhund.
Life Span:average age being 12 - 15 years. However, German Shorthairs living to be up to 18 is not uncommon. Litter Size:7 to 8 puppies. Group:Sporting Group or Gun dog. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The only acceptable color for the GSP is liver or brown. The coat can be solid liver or a combination of liver and white. Combinations being liver and white ticked, liver patches and white ticked, or liver roan. The head is typically solid or almost completely liver. Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:23 - 25 inches tall Male Weight:55 - 70 pounds Female Height:21- 23 inches tall. Female Weight: 45 - 60 pounds Living Area:These dogs require an enclosure with a high fence. They are known to jump fences as high as six feet with little trouble. They are great escape artists, and should never be left unattended outside. German Shorthaired Pointers develop very strong bonds with their owners, and should be with them as much as possible. Kenneling such a breed all the time could lead to boredom, hyperactivity, and aggression. If the dog must be kenneled at times, the fence should be high and preferably with a top on it. He should not be able to dig a hole out. The fence should be strong, since this breed is great at escaping enclosures. City or apartment life is not ideal for such a breed, as their most common cause of death is being hit by a car. They should have a fenced in yard with room to run and play. They need to be exercised off lead, another reason city leaving is not ideal. GSPs are adaptable to almost any climate, their short but dense coat leaves them able to tolerate the cold as well as the heat.

Description

A structurally correct German Shorthaired Pointer is lean, well-balanced, athletic, and graceful, yet powerful, and of medium size. They have moderately floppy ears, soft to the touch and set high on the head. The muzzle is long and broad, making it easier to retrieve game. The muzzle should never be pointed. Eyes are generally dark brown in color, with yellow being a fault. The eyes should not be set too close and should be almond shaped instead of round. The nose should also be brown and as large as possible, with nostrils broad and well opened. Teeth should form a scissor bite, and any under or overbite is penalized. A powerful jaw with well developed muscles is required to carry game for long periods of time. The dog should be evenly muscled, and a healthy weight maintained. The last two ribs should be felt under the coat with a distinct waist line. The shoulders should slope, creating a powerful back and strong quarters. Spoon shaped feet should be compact with arched toes and heavy nails. Pads should be hard and thick. Thin or fine bones are not desirable as this dog should possess strength and durability to be able to work over any type of terrain. Tails are docked 60%, should never be curled, and should hang down when the dog is quiet, horizontal when walking. When sitting down, the dog should be able to sit on his tail. Dew claws are removed as puppies to prevent injury when working as adults. Dew claws have the tendency to be ripped when running in fields. Overall the dog should be well balanced and proportioned. The conformation of both show and working Shorthairs should be similar, as the breed description compliments its hunting abilities.
Coat Description

The coat on a German Shorthaired Pointer is rough on the hand, short, thick, and flat. On the ears and head, the hair is softer. Hair may be longer under the tail and the back edges of the haunches, but any long hair on the body is a fault and should be severely penalized in the show ring. A dense undercoat protected by the stiff body hair makes the dog water resistant and better adaptable to cold weather. Colors such as black, red, orange, lemon, tan, or solid white are not permitted and are disqualified in the American Kennel Club. However, German standards permit colors such as black and a slight sandy color, known as Gelber Brand, which is extremely rare.
History

The German Shorthaired Pointer breed was developed in Germany during the 1800's for hunting. They were created by crossing old Spanish pointers with numerous other breeds such as scent hounds and tracking hounds; Foxhounds, Italian Pointers, German Tracking Hounds, German Bird Dogs, and English Pointers. The combination created a responsive, lean, hunting dog with great versatility, being able to retrieve both fur and feather, on land and water. Breeders focused on the basis of function rather than form, in creating the breed. German Shorthaired Pointers were accepted into the American Kennel Club in 1930, their parent

club holding the first specialty show in 1941. The efforts of nineteenth century German breeders, has created a dog today that is one of the most versatile of all gun dogs and an ideal weekend hunter. They do well in companion hunting as well as field trials, hunt tests, tracking trials, and the show ring.
Temperament

This breed was created to be a family friendly dog as well as a hunter. German shorthairs should be an affectionate and intelligent dog that is easy to train and willing to please. They are cheerful, friendly, comical and sociable. German shorthairs love children and do well with them, but sometimes as puppies they can be too boisterous. If taught from early on to be gentle, as adults they can make great companions to children. Most German Shorthairs make excellent watch dogs because they are protective and loyal to their family. They love to be with their people, and crave interaction and mental stimulation. A German Shorthair that lacks socialization and exercise could show behaviors such as aggression, destructiveness, and shyness. Males tend to be dominant and outgoing, while females tend to be less dominant. Both genders need a strong owner with the knowledge of being a pack leader and staying in charge of their dog. An owner that is too easy going will find their dog overpowers them and will not be controllable. They tend to be a "one-man" dog. This breed is extremely smart. Intelligence, combined with energy, creates a dog that needs to keep his mind and body occupied. Teaching the dog commands such as sit, stay, down, come, etc. keeps the mind occupied and satisfied, as well as vigorous exercise. If raised with other pets, German Shorthairs can do well with other dogs and cats. However, they are a hunting breed and small pets such as birds, small mammal's and reptiles may be considered game to them. If left alone too long, they can become destructive. It is recommended to crate or kennel them when being left alone. Crate training can begin when they are young puppies and can be a valuable tool for the rest of their life. However, over-crating can be destructive. The GSP is one of the more noisy hunting dogs. It should be taught when they are young when barking is acceptable and when it is not, to prevent nuisance barking.
Health Problems

German Shorthairs are generally considered a healthy breed, but they can be prone to disorders such as:
hip dysplasia, an abnormality of the hip joints

 Epilepsy, a disease causing seizures Entropion, a hereditary eyelid disorder Hermaphrodism, the presence of both male and female genitals skin disorders, such as cancerous lesions, especially on the mouth. Disorders such as hip dysplasia, Epilepsy, and Entropion can be weeded out of lines by doing Health examinations through OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals), PennHip and CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation). Dogs with abnormal results or poor hips should be altered and never bred, so as not to pass on such traits to their offspring. As all dogs with floppy ears, the German Shorthair Pointer is prone to Ear infections. Regular cleaning of the ears is necessary. The ears should be dried out after swimming to prevent the moisture from forming bacteria or yeast in the ear canal. Cleaning the ears can be done with a cotton ball and ear wash or vinegar. Weekly cleaning is ideal. It is not recommended to use q-tips to clean the ear, as such a tool could damage the ear canal. GSPs can easily gain weight if not exercised enough. They require a lot of food when worked, but should not be overfed. If left overweight, the dog is prone to injury when working or exercising. Grooming

Although German Shorthair Pointer has a short, rough coat, it does shed a lot. Weekly brushing will help to lessen the shedding, especially with a brush that will get to the undercoat, like a bristle brush. Proper diet will also help reduce shedding, and supplements such as omega-3 fatty acids or fish oil. Bathing should only be done when necessary and the dog should always be dried off after hunting, to prevent chill. Feet should be checked after working in fields. Burrs, sticks, prickers, and other foreign objects can become embedded into the pads. The ears should be kept clean and dry to prevent infection.
Exercise

Because the German Shorthair is a hunting dog, they naturally have a lot of energy to burn and can be tireless. They need to be with an active family that can provide lots of outdoor activities, preferably off lead. They should not be taken on as a family pet if the family does not hunt. It is possible to exercise them in forms other than hunting, but it requires a dedicated family. Besides hunting, some other activities the breed enjoys is swimming, running, agility, tracking,

mushing, carting, scootering, and obedience. They will take as much exercise as you can give them. Their natural instinct to hunt will lead them to exercise themselves if not provided by their owner, which could lead to hyperactivity and destructiveness. They need to be taken for walks, preferably off lead, at least twice a day. A walk around the block on a leash will not cut it for this breed, and if that is all that can be provided, the owner will find a dog that may overwhelmingly hyperactive.
Training

German Shorthaired Pointers require an owner with an experience with dogs, since they require a lot of formal training. It is in their nature to work in far distances from their handler, and such a dog needs to be trained to know the handler is in charge and to come when called. These are one of the few hunting breeds that can perform in almost all gundog roles; pointer, retriever, water and upland bird dog, and scent hounds. They are easily trained to do such activities, but it takes time to perfect. If not being used as a hunter, they still require formal training. Puppy classes, obedience, agility, or other forms of training are all desirable for the breed. A dog left untrained will not be a manageable dog, as his mind will become bored. German Shorthairs should be taught early on a method called NILIF, Nothing In Life is Free. This means they must work for and earn everything. Before they eat, play, go outside, come inside, go for walks, etc., they should perform a command. The command can be something as simple as sit or down, just as long as they earn what they are getting. This will help the dog realize its place in the pack and know he is not in charge.

German Wirehaired Pointers

Aliases: Deutsch Drahthaar, Deutscher Drahthaariger, Vorstehhund Drahthaar
Life Span:8 and 10 years. Litter Size:6 and 10 puppies. Group:Gun Dog, Sporting Dog Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The colors of the German Wirehaired Pointer are liver and white, black and white, and solid liver. Hair Length:Short

Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24-26 inches Male Weight:60-70 pounds Female Height:22 inches Female Weight:60-70 pounds Living Area:The German Wirehaired Pointer is best suited in a home with a large fenced yard. They do very poorly in apartment style living. They get extreme indoor restlessness and need to spend a large quantity of time outside. They are known to become very high strung and active indoors. In order to prevent this extreme indoor restlessness they need plenty of outdoor exercise.
Description

The German Wirehaired Pointer is a very distinctive, muscular medium sized dog. This breed's most distinctive feature is its wiry weather resistant coat and its facial furnishings. The head is moderately long with brown eyes that are overhung with medium length eyebrows. The ears are rounded and hang close to the head. The ears are not to be broad. The muzzle is to be fairly long with a straight nasal bone. The nose is to be brown with large open nostrils. The neck of the dog is medium length and slightly arched. The skin is to be tight to be the body. The ribs are well sprung and the chest is deep. The back should be short, straight, and strong. The hips are broad with a nicely rounded croup. The tail is set high and should be carried horizontal or above when the dog is alert. The tail is docked about two-fifths of its original length. The leg bones are flat not round and strong. They cannot be too heavy that the dog's agility is impeded. The feet are webbed, arched high with thick pads and hard strong nails. The dewclaws are generally removed. The thighs are strong and muscular. The hind legs are parallel when viewed from the back. The hocks are short and straight. The gait of the German Wirehaired Pointer is free and smooth. It should have sufficient reach in the forequarters with substantial power in the hindquarters. It is considered to be a moderate gait. The dog has a strong ground covering stride and keeps a firm back. The legs move in a straight line and there is no tendency for the legs to cross over or interfere.
Coat Description

The coat of the German Wirehaired Pointer is its most distinctive feature. The coat is weather resistant and somewhat water repellant. The undercoat is dense enough that in winter it can keep the dog warm but thin enough that in summer it is virtually invisible. The outer coat is straight,

wiry, and flat lying and is about 1-2 inches in length. The eyebrows are of strong straight hair and the beard and whiskers are of medium length.
History

The German Wirehaired Pointer was developed in the late 19th Century and beginning of the 20th Century in Germany. The breeding origin is based on the ideas of "Hegewald" (Sigismund Freiherr von Zedlitz und Neukirch). It was carefully cross bred from the German Pointer and several other breeds. There is some differentiation on which breeds these were. It is speculated that they were Wirehaired Griffon, Poodle-Pointer, Foxhound, and Bloodhound. The German Wirehaired Pointer is the most popular dog in its country of origin, Germany. However, it was not officially recognized until the 1920's. At this time the dog was introduced to the United States. It was officially recognized in the United States in 1959. It has never grown to be as popular in the United States as it is in Germany.
Temperament

The German Wirehaired Pointer is a very intelligent, active, and affection breed. They like to keep busy and enjoy doing work for their owners. Without enough exercise of activity they can become very bored and hard to manage. It is important to keep them busy with tasks or involved in activities outdoors. This breed's puppies are very high energy and are very rambunctious. It is necessary to note that they are late bloomers and do not fully mature until two years old. They typically will excessively bark or destructively chew when they are bored or restless. This can be very aggravating for the owners. In addition to this, the German Wirehaired Pointer exhibit strong separation anxiety and do not like to be left alone for more than a few hours. If you work long hours or are away from home frequently, this is not the dog for you. Another thing to be aware of if choosing a puppy from this breed is that they do not house train easily. It takes several months of consistent and firm training for them to pick it up. They are very loyal family pets. However, they can become jealous. They make excellent watch dogs and are very protective of their owners. If the family has children, this dog may not be the best choice. This breed typically does better with older and considerate children. They are affectionate and loving towards their owners and remain very loyal. They can be dominant with other dogs and animals, but generally will do alright. They typically do well with other household animals, however, will tend to be dominant with other dogs in their homes. They need to be socialized from a young age because they tend to be a little bit aloof with strangers. Aloofness can turn into shyness which can be hard to handle when they are adult dogs. They do become attached to their owners and show tendencies of jealousy and these needs to be watched for. Early socialization can prevent or minimize this because it can show the dog that people and attention from other sources is not a threat. The German Wirehaired Pointer make great hunting companions. They are capable of hunting any kind of game on any kind of terrain. This breed is an excellent tracker with a strong nose.

They can also track and retrieve on both land and water. They are steady, lively, and vigorous and this adds to their great hunting appeal because they do not tire easily. However, if being used for hunting and retrieving out in the brush and water it is necessary to make sure that their feet are checked afterwards to watch for debris.
Health Problems hip dysplasia: Ball and joint problem of the hip. Causes arthritic like symptoms.

Entropion: The eyelid will roll inwards towards the eye and cause irritation of the cornea. Surgical repair is required.

Cataracts: Causes visual blurring and can eventually cause blindness.

von Willebrands Disease: Involves a problem with the clotting of the blood. Grooming

Grooming for the German Wirehaired Pointer is rated as being moderately low. They do shed and therefore require twice weekly brushing with a firm bristle brush. They do require some stripping and hand plucking during the shedding seasons. This breed of dog is considered to be an average shedder. The coat should feel rough to the touch. The coat does require bathing when necessary. Bathing should only be done when necessary. Their coat is very weather resistant and is somewhat waterproof which makes bathing not as regular as with some other breeds. When bathing a specialty dog shampoo should be used as human shampoo or liquid soap can be very irritating to the skin of the dog. Hand plucking of the hair should be done during the bath as it can reduce the amount of shed. This is especially crucial during the two shedding seasons in the year. The dog is medium sized and so bathing at home in the tub should be sufficient. If you find it is too difficult to handle, professional bathing and grooming is an option. This can be done two or three times a year. If the dog spends a lot of time in the bush or rough terrain it is important for the ears and bottoms of the feet to be checked. Ears can get clogged with dirt and debris. This collection of dirt or debris can cause ear canal infections and other ear problems. The ears should be cleaned regularly. The bottoms of the feet should always be cleaned regularly. If the dog spend a lot of time in rough terrain dirt and debris or cuts may appear on the bottoms of the feet and this can be very uncomfortable for the dog. Like with every other breed of dog, regular grooming will keep the dog happy and healthy. Regular maintenance of the nails, teeth, and eyes are also necessary. When cutting the nails it is essential to make sure that you do not cut the quick. This can be very painful and will result in bleeding.

Exercise

The German Wirehaired Pointer is a very high energy dog with a tireless nature. They need excessive amounts of exercise in order to not become bored and restless. They will become restless indoors and this can be bothersome. They are best suited for an owner or family who love the outdoors and can dedicate the time to running and keeping the dog occupied. This breed loves to go jogging, swim, and retrieve. This makes them an excellent dog for a family who loves to go to the lake or lives near the water. They were originally bred for the purpose of hunting and are still used for that purpose today. They will make wonderful companions for game hunters. Hunting will keep the dog feeling physically and mentally stimulated and will reduce the amount of indoor restlessness.
Training

Training for the German Wirehaired Pointer is essential. They need very consistent and firm training from the time they are young puppies. One of the most difficult parts of training for this breed is house breaking. The two keys to housebreaking are confinement and regular access to the right place to go to the bathroom. Confinement means that until your dog is house broken they are not allowed to roam freely around the house. The dog should be confined when ever you are not playing, grooming, walking, cuddling, or occupying the dog in any other way. If the dog is allowed to roam free around the house and you are not watching they will go to the bathroom in the house and then the bad habit has started. There are three different types of confinement. First the dog can be put in a crate and let outside frequently. Secondly, the dog can be put in a pen with a litter box or newspapers. Lastly, the dog can be kept in a small room and they can have regular access outside through a doggie door. This way they can control when they go outside. Having access to the right place to go means take your dog outside. It is important that your dog has a place to go on a regular basis. This can be outside or it can also be newspaper or litter box at the beginning. Another essential element for the training of the German Wirehaired Pointer is socialization. The best socialization occurs between when the puppy is 7 weeks old until about 6 months old. That is the time to take the dog out into the world to experience new people and new places. This will help the dog become less aloof an suspicious. Socialization should continue throughout the dog's adolescent years because like teenagers the dog's attitude can change monthly or even daily. It is important to keep introducing your dog to new things. Adult socialization is almost impossible because by that time the dog has already determined its personality and attitudes. It can be very difficult to try and change that during adulthood. The German Wirehaired Pointer because it is a sporting and hunting dog can also receive training for that purpose. There are several agencies and training programs to assist in the training of both the dog and owner. They will excel in agility, hunting, tracking, and retrieving. Getting the dog involved in agility training is a great way to occupy the dog both mentally and physically.

Giant Schnauzers
Aliases: Riesen Schnauzer, Munich Schnauzer, Russian Bear Schnauzer
Life Span:12-15 years. Litter Size:5-8 puppies/litter Group:Herding, AKC Working Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Giant Schnauzers come in two colors, solid black and salt and pepper. Hair Length:Medium Size:Extra Large Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:25-28inches Male Weight:80 and 100lbs Female Height:23-26inches Female Weight:60 and 80lbs Living Area:Giants require a lot of exercise as they are energetic dogs. The best suited home for a Giant would be out on an acreage or in a home that is active and would provide the dog with stimulation and activity. These dogs can do well in the city though, as long as they are exercised enough.
Description

The Giant Schnauzer is a dog with a square build, a short, slightly arched back that slopes down a little. The head is about half as long as the back from withers to tail. The muzzle and top of the head should be parallel. The nose is large and black. Eyes are dark brown and oval shaped. The teeth should make a scissor bite and there should be no under or over bite. In some countries, where permissible, the ears are cropped. Ears should stand sharp and erect. The tail is set on high and carried erect, and where permissible docked at about the second or third joint. Schnauzers have oval chests that reach down past the elbows, and a clear fore chest. The belly has a slight tuck up. The legs are straight and the elbows fit closely to the sides. Feet are round with well arched toes, with long hair, owners often comment on how they look like bear feet. The neck is

powerful, strong and arched with no dewlap. The coat comes in two colors, solid black or salt and pepper.
Coat Description

The Giant Schnauzer has a double coat. The outer coat is wiry, thick, and harsh. The under coat is dense and soft. The hair is longer over the eyes and on the muzzle to form bushy eyebrows and a distinctive beard. The hair on the legs is longer than the body coat. The color of the coat is either salt and pepper or pure black. This breed sheds little to no hair, but should be groomed regularly to prevent mats from forming.
History

Giant Schnauzers are the largest of the Schnauzer breed, originating from Munich, Germany. A versatile breed, they were used as cattle driving dogs in Bavaria, sheepherders, guarding, and as noble companions, but as technology progressed they almost faced extinction as they were no longer needed. Thanks to its reputation as a guardian and to dedicated breeders, the breed was kept alive. They still make great herding dogs and wonderful pets. The police and military also use them as guard dogs or police dogs to this day. The Giant excels at Schutzhund and any other task you give it. They are loyal and protective over their owners, but will show unconditional love for years to come. It is believed that the Giant Schnauzer is composed of a variety of other large breeds, including Bouviers, Great Danes and some Shepherd Breeds. When the resulting dog resembled the Standard Schnauzer, that breed was crossed in to reinforce the type and the name became Giant Schnauzer. The name Schnauzer comes from the German word "Schnauze", meaning beard or muzzle and draws attention to the distinctive mustache and beard on the muzzle created by longer hair there.
Temperament

Giants are alert to their surroundings, good natured and very intelligent dogs. They learn quite easily and have sensitive feelings. These dogs bond very closely with their families and will protect them if needed. A very loyal dog. Giants tend to become very attached and often have a tough time if ownership is changed. This breed is an excellent guard dog and will alert you to visitors, intruders or anything particularly out of the ordinary. Giants don't bark too much, it isn't warranted; their sheer size should scare away any unwanted visitors. This breed is very loving, protective, and responsible. Thriving on human companionship, Giants do get their feeling hurt if ignored or scolded. Being a large dog, extra attention should be made to make sure that Giants don't jump up and don't get too out of hand, as they could accidentally hurt someone or something. With this in mind, they are not overly energetic, so they are easily trained. Giant Schnauzers are highly intelligent, imposing, and extremely protective of their

family and territory. They make excellent guard dogs. These dogs are a dominant breed, but with proper socialization they should do well with children and other pets.
Health Problems

Some female Giants, if spayed too early may have inconsistency problems. This can be prevented by waiting until the dog is fully developed before Spaying. Giants are prone to cancer, more than most breeds. They have a tendency for developing toe cancer, regular vet checks and proper care can help you catch the disease early. They also are at an increased risk of Bloat because of their size; you can prevent this by Feeding them small amounts at different times during the day. Epilepsy is another disease that is common for this breed, as well as hip dysplasia. Special care should be done to prevent joints from suffering damage in puppy hood, such as not allowing the dog to jump up, avoiding stairs and limiting running times until they are full developed.
Grooming

The Giant Schnauzer has a stiff, wiry coat that sheds very little and produces no odor. Daily grooming is needed to keep the coat clean and free of tangles and mats. Grooming should start when the dog is a puppy, as this breed needs to be groomed quite a bit. A short wire brush should be used on a weekly basis. To prevent odor and discoloration, the beard should be cleaned after meals and dried after long drinks. Hair around the eyes and ears should be kept trimmed to prevent it from matting and getting in the dogs eyes. Clipping is usually required only twice a year and by trial and error, an owner could learn to do this at home. The coat should be stripped, not shaved to the body in order to keep the wiry coat. Shaving causes the coat of the Schnauzer to become soft and wooly, like that of a Bouvier, an unwanted trait. Giants shed less than most breeds, but still do release hairs occasionally, brushing weekly will keep this down to a minimum. With ears that are cropped, make sure that they are kept dry and are cleaned every second day. Discourage the dog from scratching the ears and make sure that they are taped properly, not to tight to cause discomfort and not too loose that the dog could pull the tape off. The ears should stay taped until the dog is 6 months old, or until they stand up on their own. The hair on the pads should be trimmed also, to prevent object from becoming stuck and injuring the dog. Nails should be kept short, if the dog has black nails, cut small amounts at a time so that the quick is not cut.
Exercise

Giants should be exercised daily for at least an hour. They are energetic dogs and require a lot of activity. If not properly exercised, these dogs can become destructive, bored and overweight. They love running and exploring new places and will be a great running/jogging partner as they love spending time with their owners. Giants tend to thrive and feel secure with regular daily routines. Best thing is to have a secure

fenced area. For younger dogs play time and obedience training should be enough to tire them out. It is not a good idea to jog or heavily exercise younger dogs as they are so loyal they will run even if injured and this can also add to joint pain in the future. The best way to exercise pups is a game of fetch and games until they want to stop. A brisk morning walk, a walk in the evening and of course play time should be enough exercise for your Giant.
Training

The Giant Schnauzer is an intelligent dog that is easily trained, although it does need consistent training, as they can be quite stubborn. As puppies they do require lots of socialization and training. These dogs tend to be quite dominant with other animals, so socialization should start in puppy hood. With dominant breeds, special attention should be made to ensure that the dog does not develop food or object aggression. You can prevent this by petting the dog while it eats and making the dog aware that you are boss. They are bold and need an equally bold influence in their life. They love learning new tasks, which can make training them a lot of fun. It is also what can make them a handful or difficult to the wrong owners. Giants can easily bond with just one person in the family, it is very common. That is why it is very important for every family member to give them commands, feed and train them. Even with that they have tendencies to favor one member a bit more. This type of breed needs to learn their place in a family, that the other family members are above the giant. Giants should also be taught to respect the dinner table, you should not allow your dog to beg or feed it scraps from the table, a puppy may not be able to reach, but a fully grown Giant can easily steal food from your plate and become a nuisance at dinner time. They should also be taught from an early age to go in a crate. They are a large dog that becomes bored quite easily and could cause damage. Being in a crate all day may sound boring, but it keeps the dog out of harms way, a simple kong with frozen peanut butter will keep your Giant happy and safe while it awaits your return.

Golden Retrievers
Aliases: Goldie, Goldens, Yellow Lab
Life Span: 10-13 years. Litter Size:8 Group:Sporting Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC Color:The coat color of a Golden can range from a light cream color, into the yellows, or even into darker golden or copper shades.

Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:23-24 inches Male Weight:65-75 pounds Female Height:21.5-22.5 inches Female Weight:55-65 pounds Living Area:The Golden Retriever does well in different living situations as long as their family takes the time to make sure they are well exercised. While a large fenced yard or a secure area that provides room to run and play is ideal, a Golden Retriever can also thrive in an apartment environment. In this situation, it is important to check with local parks and public areas to determine what their rules are in regards to dogs and other pets, and see what would be most suitable for taking your dog to for play and exercise time.
Description

The Golden Retriever is divided into two groups, primarily based on their appearance. The first group is the English, and they are shorter, bigger-boned, and tend to have longer coats that are lighter in color. The American group tends to be lanky with longer limbs, and have characteristics that are more similar to the origins of their breed. Their broad heads are connected to wide muzzles. They have brown expressive eyes and a black nose, and as they mature, their chests become broad and their bodies become muscular, and their tails are always wagging. Generally, a Golden Retriever is filled with confidence and that comes through by the way they carry themselves. They appear strong and athletic, and their body is symmetrical. Their peaceful attitude and affectionate personalities are apparent in their posture and in the way they interact with their humans.
Coat Description

The Golden Retriever has a double coat. The outer coat is soft, feathery, and can be straight or wavy. The undercoat allows the Golden to repel water and stay warm in extreme cold, and then will shed throughout the year, but more in the spring. This gives the Golden Retriever coat a versatile quality, since the coat allows for the Golden to be comfortable in virtually any season of the year. Shedding can be managed by putting some time aside throughout the week to keep up on grooming, and if your dog is likely to spend the majority of its time indoors, it may be a good idea to invest in a good vacuum cleaner to clean up any hair missed in your grooming routine.

History

This highly intelligent and social dog has a history that traces back to the late 1800s, where written records indicate that Lord Tweedmouth of developed them. His desire was to produce a dog that was skillful in hunting and tracking, as well as retrieving waterfowl. In addition, he wanted a hunting partner that was beautiful to watch work. It is believed that the breed began by crossing a yellow dog with the now-extinct water spaniel, and through the years, the breed has evolved into a dog with popularity that has stood the test of time. Golden Retrievers are not believed to have been brought to until the 1890s, and they were not presented in dog shows until the 1920s.
Temperament

Outgoing and social, the Golden Retriever makes a loyal family pet. Their sweet dispositions make them patient and gentle with children and they are generally tolerant of other pets. It is important to remember that they are excitable as pups, and can accidentally knock children over while playing. Aggressiveness in well-bred Golden Retrievers is not common, but improper breeding can raise the chances of aggression issues. Instead, these dogs are people lovers who prefer to have as much human contact as possible, and can tend to get themselves into trouble if they are frequently left alone. Being forced from their family members for long periods can result in a very unhappy Golden Retriever that could suffer from separation anxiety. Golden Retrievers do not make the best of guard dogs. They will bark at strangers, but seem to be more interested in meeting and making friends with them than they are defending their family against them. They are affectionate, loving and loyal, and try hard to please their people. Golden Retrievers have a high energy level. These fun loving dogs enjoy nothing more than to play fetch or retrieve a stick during play, and their love for water makes for not only interesting play, but also plays a part in their strong hunting skills. Their high level of intelligence enables them to excel in obedience training. They are often trained and used as service dogs to the blind and disabled. Their friendly and affectionate personalities also make them ideal visitors for retirement homes and allow them to be effective therapy dogs.
Health Problems

Some of the most common Health Problems found in Golden Retrievers are:
hip dysplasia Cataracts elbow dysplasia. Hip Dysplasia is a skeletal issue that leads to extreme discomfort, swelling, arthritis and even lameness.

The high demand for this breed has often led to poor and unhealthy Breeding practices, and a lot of the Health issues a Golden Retriever may face can be genetic. Other health issues that can affect Goldens can include:

Epilepsy skin Allergies inherited Heart disease. Recent studies and surveys have indicated that cancer is rapidly becoming the most common cause of death for Goldens, the most common types being hemangiosarcoma and Lymphosarcoma. While genetic factors also play a role in cancer illnesses in Golden Retrievers, environmental causes are also a big cause of different cancers. It is imperative that you find a trustworthy vet in your area and be active in the health care of your dog. Keep up on the immunizations that are recommended, as well as any shots that are required by your community. Establish a strong relationship with your vet and good communication skills, and talk about changes that you can make in regards to care, Lifestyle and Diet that can help your dog live a long and happy life. Be informed as to warning signs of illness, as well as what steps you should take in case of an emergency with your Golden Retriever. Grooming

The Golden Retriever's double coat is important to brush on a daily basis. Many Golden owners complain about how much their dogs shed, particularly in the spring months. A strong brush will be your most prized tool when combating dog hair on your furniture, clothes and carpeting. Trimming can be done on occasion. Their nails should be trimmed on a regular basis. Long nails can be very uncomfortable for the dog, and painful if your dog happens to jump on someone. In addition, regular nail care can prevent uncomfortable issues with the shape of their feet. Sometimes a dog owner is lucky and has a dog with clear nails, making it easy to determine where the quick is. The quick helps you know how short the nail should be cut. If you are one of the many pet owners that have dogs with dark nails, the rule of thumb is to cut the nail even with the pad of the foot, and it is never a bad idea to make sure you have styptic in your first aid kit, just in case there is bleeding. If you are intimidated by nail trimming, make sure you ask your vet to do it for you. Golden Retrievers have floppy ears that fold over. This as well as the activity level of the dog can allow it to be susceptible to yeast and bacterial ear infections. Because of this, it is important to be on the watch for any signs indicating an infection, such as head shaking or scratching, and know how to clean their ears carefully. Be prepared to visit your vet for a diagnosis when an infection is suspected as this can be an uncomfortable condition that, if untreated, could cause

long term issues with the ears or the hearing. Shampooing with a mild shampoo is a great way to combat "doggy" odor. If you have a Golden with sensitive skin or allergies, chances are, your vet can recommend a shampoo that can clean effectively yet prevent your dog's skin from being irritated. In fact, it is possible that there are shampoos available that can improve allergy discomfort!
Exercise

While a youthful Golden Retriever is not as prone to weight issues as other breeds, it can still be a concern for older dogs as they become less active. They are an extremely active breed, and exercise is an important part of their daily care. They must be provided adequate room and time to play, beyond their outdoor potty breaks. Allowing them to retrieve balls, throwing sticks or Frisbees for them, giving them opportunities to play and socialize with dogs as well as a nice walk are all wonderful ways to ensure your Golden Retriever is well exercised. Some other activities your Golden may enjoy include swimming, hiking, jogging or biking. Mental exercise is also important. These dogs are eager to please, and enjoy having jobs to keep them busy and gain approval. Creating fun games or interesting things for your dog to do will keep them entertained and prevent them from becoming bored.
Training

Golden Retrievers are known for being an easy breed to train. They are excited to learn, eager to please, and their high intelligence allows them to learn behaviors and tricks quickly. Most dogs from this size benefit from obedience training, and a good program that allows them to socialize with other dogs is an added bonus. Goldens Retrievers are easy to train to do jobs. Golden Retrievers have been trained to work with Police to locate drugs, excel in agility training and enjoy learning how to perform tricks. Golden Retrievers are popular candidates for training to become aid dogs. Their quick minds make them ideal for guiding the blind, and the training for this job begins when they are puppies. They are also trained to do other wonderful things for people such as uplifting the sick, and entertaining the aging. It is important to begin teaching basic commands such as sit, come, stay and heel. The sooner these basic commands are mastered, the easier it will be to manage your dog as it grows and as you are training progresses.

Gordon Setters
Aliases: Gordon
Life Span:10-12 years

Litter Size:7-9 puppies Group:AKC Sporting, Gun Dog

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:black and tan, specific markings only accepted. Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24-27 inches (61-69 cm) Male Weight:55-80 pounds (25-36 kg) Female Height:23-26 inches (58-66 cm) Female Weight:45-70 pounds (20-32 kg) Living Area:Needs space to exercise and needs a well fenced yard. Prefers indoor living and is not recommended for apartments.
Description

The Gordon Setter is one of the most distinct of the setter breeds largely because of its unique coat coloration. This breed is the only setter that always has the black and tan coloration to it long, luxurious coat and furnishings. The coat may be slightly wavy but is never curly with longer hair on the ears, chest, undersides and the legs and tail. The tail is relatively long and is rather broad at the base and tapers to a very fine point. The tail is carried low naturally but will be raised higher when the dog is excited or working. The hair on the tail is longer at the underside of the base and gradually becomes shorter as the tail decreases in size. When viewed from the side the tail should resemble a pendant or flag. The body of the Gordon Setter is robust and sturdy without appearing heavy, cobby or clumsy. The chest is very deep and will reach down almost to the elbows of the front legs, but is typically narrow rather than broad and blunt. The ribcage is well sprung and developed, and there is a gradual concave appearance to the abdomen. The legs and long and give the dog a tall stance. They are straight and well boned but not heavy or overly muscular looking. The hind legs are slightly bent to give the impression of the dog being able to spring immediately into action. The feet are compact and well arched and provide this dog with a sure footed confidence in moving through brush and over rough terrain. The breed also has a significant amount of long hairs

between the toes providing additional protection to the feet. The head of the Gordon Setter is much broader and larger than many of the other setter breeds. It is considered to be rather chiseled in appearance with a very pronounced stop between the muzzle and the eyes. The muzzle itself is long, broad and square looking and they will always have a very wide black nose with well developed nostrils. The muzzle does not appear to taper in anyway and is very blunt at the end. The lips are held close to the mouth and are not slack or pendulous. The ears are thin and are held slightly back and close to the head and are never carried erect. The eyes are oval in shape and are very dark with a look of intelligence and enthusiasm.
Coat Description

The coat is medium to long and is silky and flat in appearance. It may be wavy or straight or a combination of wavy on the furnishings and straight on the body. The coat is very shiny and flowing looking without being bulky or fluffy in appearance. The furnishings are moderately long and heavy and should appear in balance with the coat and size of the dog. The tail is well furnished with a flag like appearance when held horizontal.
History

Originally bred in Scotland in the 1600s the Gordon Setter has always been a popular breed with hunters. It was originally known as the Black and Tan Setter, but then with the interest of Duke Alexander the 4th the name changed to Gordon after the castle that he maintained his hunting dogs at. The Duke set out to improve the breed and encouraged others to do the same. Another important person in the development and popularization of the breed was the Duke of Richmond that took up the promotion of the breed after Duke Alexander's death. In the early 1900's the breed went back to the original Black and Tan name, but then was officially recognized as the Gordon Setter by the English Kennel Club. The Gordon Setter was also one of the first breeds to be recognized by the American Kennel Club. The Gordon Setter was brought to the United States in 1842 and was recognized as a breed in 1892. The Gordon Setter was bred as a one man hunting dog, not for speed but for a patterned and logical approach to finding game birds. It has been used as a pointer, for flushing out birds as well as for retrieving. This multi-level skill development has lead this breed to be one of the most intelligent of the setter breeds and a true asset to hunters. They have more recently become popular as a beautiful show dog as well as a faithful companion dog.
Temperament

As with most of the setter breeds the Gordon Setter is a very even tempered dog that tends to get along well with almost anyone or anything that he or she encounters. They are somewhat aloof and independent around strangers until the dog decides if they are trustworthy or not, then the dog will either completely ignore the person or become very friendly. Often this breed seems to be studying people to make this decision. Early and constant socialization is required to keep this

breed from becoming shy or highly reserved around other people. Overall a very loyal and loving breed the Gordon Setter makes an excellent dog both inside the house and outside. They are wonderful with children of all ages and have a great deal of patience with young kids. They do not react to sudden noises or fast movements in negative ways like some breeds, so can easily handle children. They are really a people breed preferring to be in the same area as the owner rather than along or isolated. The breed does need a significant amount of exercise either in the form of a large fenced yard to wander and play or in regular walks and romps. Without enough exercise they can become hyperactive and rambunctious and more challenging to handle. The Gordon Setter makes a wonderful companion dog for both canine and non-canine pets. They will quickly adjust to cats and other pets in the house provided they are properly socialized. It is always recommended to start the socialization process with other pets and dogs as soon as possible when the Gordon Setter is a puppy. They are not a dog aggressive breed and typically will do well even with dominant breeds of dogs. Male Gordon Setters will be somewhat more aggressive especially if females are present so early neutering is important. Females should be spayed early as well to prevent pregnancies and the challenging behaviors often displayed while they are in heat. The Gordon Setter does have a tendency to roam and wander so should be kept in a fenced yard. They do very well in hunting trials, obedience competitions and as watchdogs for the family. While not a problem barker they will naturally bark whenever someone or something approaches they are unfamiliar with. The breed is considered very easy to train but can be somewhat independent and requires firm, consistent and regular positive training and practice to stay highly obedient and cooperative.
Health Problems

The Gordon Setter is considered a very healthy and hardy breeds and has no specific genetic or hereditary problems that are not seen in other large breeds of dogs. Within the breed Bloat, also known as Gastric torsion may be a problem, as can canine hip dysplasia. Both of these conditions can be treated and are not life threatening. elbow dysplasia and Progressive Retinal Atrophy are occasionally seen and a vet can provide information on these conditions. Cerebellar abiotrophy is very occasionally seen in the breed and is a neurological disorder with no known treatment or cure. Reputable breeders will not breed lines with a history of this condition.
Grooming

Despite the long and somewhat silky coat the Gordon Setter is an amazingly easy to groom breed. They do required regular brushing two or three times a week to prevent tangles and mats from forming, especially in the longer furnishings on the legs, chest, underbelly and tail areas. The coat lies very close to the body and can be brushed in the direction of hair growth using a pin or stiff bristle or wire brush. The longer hair on the legs, tail and belly can be combed with a metal brush or with the wire or pin brush. Pay particular attention to the hair behind the legs where the movement between the legs and the body can cause tangles and mats.

The hair between the toes should be trimmed flat to the edges of the feet to prevent debris from being trapped. The nails should be kept trimmed and flat to the surface of the ground without pushing up on the ends of the toes. The ears should be checked for any debris or waxy build up and should be cleaned accordingly. As with all hunting breeds the coat of the Gordon Setter is naturally water-resistant and has a natural oil that protects the hair and keeps in free from dirt. In the case of the Gordon Setter it also provides a beautiful sheen to the coat. Only bathe when absolutely necessary and avoid using any human hair products on the breed that will dry out the natural oils and lead to a dry looking damaged coat.
Exercise

The Gordon Setter requires regular, intense exercise to keep focused and calm when in the house or during periods of inactivity. They are a large breed that has historically been used for long periods of hunting and tracking and needs to be moving about more than sitting still. The Gordon Setter will do very well with one or two long walks a day provided they have a yard or fenced area to explore. The breed tends to do poorly in kennels or small confined spaces as they need to stretch their long legs in romps and runs. Since the Gordon Setter is very tolerant and non-aggressive with other dogs they make excellent candidates for exercising in dog parks and off leash areas. They are somewhat prone to getting on a scent and ignoring the owners calls so only allow the dog to exercise off leash when they are completely trained and responsive. Often when owners find that the Gordon Setter is becoming distracted, hyperactive or noncompliant it is directly related to not getting enough exercise. Always exercise this breed before they are left alone in the house or taken for a ride in a vehicle. They love to go with the family and are great dogs to travel with. The Gordon Setter will play with children for hours and makes a great hiking, camping and jogging companion.
Training

The Gordon Setter should be socialized and trained at a very early age as they are natural learners but can just as easily develop good as well as bad habits. They are not an aggressive dog but can be somewhat aloof and stubborn at times so they do need consistent, firm and gentle handling. As a hunting dog the Gordon Setter needs to feel that he or she is working with the family, not for the family. They love to be challenged and then praised and given attention, and usually all the correction that will be needed is to ignore the dog and give a simple "no" command. This breed does not respond well to punishment or even harsh tones of voice and overly harsh treatment will lead to a dog that will not respond to commands. The Gordon Setter should always be exercised prior to training as they tend to be a very

energetic breed, especially as puppies and may have trouble focusing and attending when not properly exercised. They learn best when taught one command at a time without a lot of repetitions. Typically this breed will learn a basic command in one or two lessons and then has it mastered. Excessive repetition will simply lead to non-compliance. The Gordon Setter will need little training to track, scent, flush and retrieve game birds. Many puppies will naturally exhibit all these hunting behaviors and will just need to learn the commands that owners wish to use. These dogs are very methodical hunters and owners will often see them setting up patterns and moving across the yard with the typically zigzag pattern of hunting and scent breeds. Remember when training a scent dog you may need to keep them on the leash to prevent them from wandering off when they become focused on the scent trail.

Great Danes
Aliases: German Mastiff, Deutsche Dogge
Life Span:6-8 years Litter Size:average of 8 puppies, up to 15 Group:Mastiff, AKC Working Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:solid black, solid white, black with white face and legs (mantle), irregular black patches (Harlequin), solid blue (dark gray), fawn (tan with dark mask and legs). Typically white is not permitted on most patterns unless white is in the color. Hair Length:Short Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:27 to 29 inches (68.58-73.66cm) Male Weight:120 -200 pounds (54-90 kg.) Female Height:25 to 27 inches (68.58-73.66cm) Female Weight:100-130 pounds (45-59 kg.) Living Area:The Great Dane is an amazingly adaptable large breed of dog that can tolerate smaller living spaces such as apartments provided they have lots of regular outdoor exercise. They will also do well in a house with a medium to large sized yard.

Description

The Great Dane is a giant breed of dog that is both regal and powerful in appearance. They have oven been considered the Apollo of dogs due to their size, strength and proud carriage. They are solidly build and very athletic although calm and reserved in their behavior. The Great Dane is often called the German Mastiff and even thought they are called a Dane, the breed was actually developed in Germany. The Great Dane is often used as companion dog, cart dog, packing dog and a watchdog. The head of the Great Dane is very noble in appearance and is carried very high on the neck and shoulders. The head is broad and well developed with a pronounced stop and a large, rectangular shaped muzzle. The jaws are well developed and pronounced and the nose is very noticeable and black. The eyes are well set, lively and very intelligent in appearance. They can vary from lighter brown colors in tan and blue coat colors. The ears are either left long and natural and fold over, or are cropped to stand upright. Typically ear cropping is only done in the United States and very rarely in other countries. Overall the head is very refined and chiseled in appearance and while the lips are slightly pendulous they are not extremely loose. The Great Dane can be a drooling dog although in some lines this is not a concern. The neck of the Great Dane is long and well muscled, arched and placed high on the shoulders. The neck tapers slightly to the throat and flows into well developed withers as well as a deep, wide and broad chest. The rib cage is well developed and solid, with a noticeable tucking up at the abdomen. The front legs are straight, well boned and very muscular while not appearing heavy or too small. The brisket extends well down to the elbows and should be proportionate to the overall length of the body. The back of the Great Dane slopes slightly from the withers to a rounded rump. The tail is long and tapers from a thick base through to a point at the tip. The tail is carried close to the hind legs and curls upwards at the hock. The read legs are well formed and the feet and legs are straight when viewed from the back. When viewed from the side they have a slightly crouching appearance that enhances the look of strength and ability. The feet of the Great Dane are round and compact with thick pads. They are well arched with strong nails. The Great Dane moves with an easy flowing stride that is capable of covering great distances with minimal effort. The back should remain level when the dog is in motion and there should be no noticeable rolling or shifting of the weight of the dog through any gaits. The coat is very sleek and short with a natural shine. The Great Dane can have several colorations including Harlequin (white with black irregular patches), solid black, solid white, mantle (black blanket with white markings), fawn with black points and solid blue. Merle is often seen in Harlequin Dane crossings but is not a recognized color.
Coat Description

The Great Dane has a short, dense and fine coat that is very close to the body. There is no long hair or feathering on the body and the uniformly short coat is very easy to care for. The coat of the Great Dane has a natural deep sheen in all color variations.

History

A dog very similar in appearance to the Great Dane has been found on Greek coins dating back to the year 36 B.C. They were considered the dogs of royalty and were very highly prized and regarded. These dogs were brought into what is now Europe and were heavier, larger and less refined that what we now know as the Great Dane. The modern Great Dane was first developed in Germany, likely as a cross between Mastiffs brought by the Asiatic people and Irish Wolfhounds. They were originally bred as dogs of war and for hunting large game. The Great Danes were valued for their strength, obedience and ability to work independently. In the fourteenth century the Germans began to actively use the Great Dane as dogs to hunt wild hogs. The Great Dane became popular with English hunters and was originally known as the German Boarhound. The German Boarhound at some point in time became known as the Great Dane, although there is little information on why the name change occurred or why they were connected to Denmark instead of Germany. In the year 1880 the German government officially decreed that the Great Dane should only be called the Deutsche Dogge within the country. In more recent times the Great Dane is typically used as a carting dog as well as a companion. They can also be an excellent show dog and watchdog.
Temperament

The Great Dane is a very calm and gentle tempered dog that is loyal to its family and will be strong protector even though they are not normally an aggressive breed. The Great Dane is a good dog with children although he or she will sometimes not understand its large size and must be taught not to jump up or lean against people as it can easily knock someone over. The Great Dane can be a terrific companion dog if properly socialized and worked with from a young age. The Great Dane needs to have lots of time with other dogs and males especially should be well socialized. Occasionally male Great Danes that are not neutered will become dog aggressive, especially if females in season are present. It is recommended that Great Danes be neutered or spayed if not in breeding programs. It is a great idea to raise Great Dane puppies with cats and other pets if they are to be kept in houses with other animals. The Great Dane is a rather reserved dog with strangers when mature but will also be very playful with the family well into their adult years. They are moderately active and will require training to help them learn how to behave in a variety of situations. Training the Great Dane may be somewhat challenging but they do respond well to their owners. They may be somewhat aloof with strangers and will take a while to get to know new people, at which time they will welcome them into the house and the family. The Great Dane is a natural watchdog and its large size and imposing stare will usually result in strangers leaving the area immediately. They can, however, become aggressive if they feel that the family is being threatened although this is not common or a natural tendency of the breed.

Health Problems

The Great Dane has several Health conditions that may be problematic in some lines. Buying from a reputable breeder as well as ensuring the puppy and the parents were health checked before deciding to buy is very important. The common issues with the breed are:
Gastric torsion - also known as Bloat, is common in large, deep chested dog breeds. Feed several small meals and limit Exercise after eating to prevent this condition. Skin Allergies - this can be a very big problem with the breed. Carefully select any skin products or dog shampoos and watch for any signs of irritation.

Skin tumors - this may be benign or malignant but do need checking and treatment. cardiomyopathy - heart conditions leading to possible heart attacks and respiratory problems.

Canine hip dysplasia - ensure both parents are certified as free from CDH CVI - also known as Wobbler's Syndrome. Poor coordination and painful movement, may be corrected by surgery and Aggressive medical treatments.

VWD - von Willebrands Disease will result in bleeding, similar to Hemophilia in humans.

Grooming

The Great Dane has few grooming requirements although they do benefit from regular, routine grooming. All that is required is a bristle brush or a rubberized grooming mitt that can simple be stroked along the soft, short coat. To keep the coat looking as glossy as possible consider following up grooming with a rub down with a chamois cloth to bring out the natural luster. The Great Dane is a moderate shedder but is not prone to the seasonal heavy shedding of some breeds. Grooming on a regular basis and using dry powder shampoo is recommended as opposed to a full bath. Fully bathing a Great Dane is both difficult as well as potentially damaging to the coat, especially if the shampoo is not completely rinsed out of the coat. If you are fully bathing consider using a professional groomer that has equipment that is specially designed for large and giant breeds of dogs.

It is very important to carefully care for the nails of the Great Dane. Keep nails short and level with the ground so they do not push up or into the foot as the dog moves. Use a guillotine type nail clipper specially designed for large breeds. In dark nailed dogs such as the Great Dane it is important to be very careful to not cut into the quick or never and blood center of the nail. This is the same as the cuticle in a human nail, and will bleed profusely as well as hurt the dog if it is cut. In addition there is always a chance of infection with any open injuries on the feet.
Exercise

The Great Dane is a normally inactive dog indoors but will self-exercise if left outside. They do best with regular, structured exercise and once mature and over one year of age they can make excellent jogging companions. Prior to maturity it is very important to limit the amount of exercise, especially running or any strenuous types of exercise to prevent joint and muscle development problems as the breed matures. The Great Dane loves to be with people and will happily go for runs and romps in the backyard with the kids. Without proper exercise the Great Dane will become rambunctious and somewhat independent, often choosing to ignore the owner's commands. The Great Dane does prefer several hours a day outside in moderate temperatures and climates but is very intolerant of long periods in cold or damp conditions. The Great Dane is not prone to weight gain if given enough exercise and fed the correct balance of food. Any signs of weight gain should be immediately monitored and additional exercise time provided as well as careful monitoring of food intake. Exercise such as long walks, hiking or long off leash times are better for the breed than sort, intense periods of exercise.
Training

The Great Dane is a gentle and calm dog that is typically very easy to train when training is started when they are very young. Older Great Danes may be more challenging to work with if they have not had foundation training when they are young. This is very typical of all dog breeds, but the large size of the Great Dane makes it very important to get the foundation training. Obedience training is highly recommended for this breed to incorporate both training and socialization at a young age. The Great Dane should be trained using only calm and positive training methods never aggressive or harsh punishment should ever be used. The Great Dane is a very sensitive breed and will quickly become attuned to the handlers and owners emotions and approval or disproval. Usually a sharp "no" and a lack of attention is all that is required to let the Great Dane know that they have done something wrong. The Great Dane should be leash or lead trained and should be kept in a fenced yard or on a leash when outside. Even though they are not aggressive they are intimidating and can really frighten people that are not familiar with the breed. The Great Dane needs to be socialized with other dogs and non-canine pets and this should be part of the regular training program.

The Great Dane is usually relatively easy to train but occasionally a Great Dane can become somewhat dominant, requiring a firm and consistent owner. In these cases a professional trainer can also be used to help the dog and owner learn to work together and prevent dominance issues from becoming a problem. Since the Great Dane is so large it is critical to deal with behavior issues as soon as they occur, never allow bad habits to become established. Often very excited and happy to see owners come home after a long day, they have to be taught not to jump up. Teaching the Great Dane to sit when he or she approaches someone is a great idea and helps to prevent anyone from being nervous when first meeting the dog.

Great Pyrenees
Aliases: Pyrenean Mountain Dog, Chien des Pyrenees, Chien de Montagne des Pyrenees, Montanes del Pirineo, Pyr
Life Span:9-12 years, though some have lived to be 15 Litter Size:6-9 puppies with the average being 8 puppies Group:Pastoral, Utility, Working Dogs, Working, Guardian Dogs.

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Grey with white spots before the age of two, then they grow into their adult coats that may be pure white, cream or light tan with darker markings around the face and ears. The skin, nose and claws are black.

Hair Length:Long Size:Extra Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:Dogs - 27-32 inches (68-81cm) Male Weight:Dogs - 100-160 pounds (49-59kg) Female Height:Bitches - 25-30 inches (63-76cm) Female Weight:Bitches - 85-115 pounds (39-52kg)

Living Area:This dog was meant to roam and will range as wide as 15 miles when left to his or her own devices. Great Pyrenees are able to jump or dig under many fences, so if you're going to keep the dog contained on anything other than a ranch with livestock (they won't leave the flock), you'll need a very strong fence. When kept as companion animals, they can come to enjoy living in the house with you but will certainly get the entire place covered in long white hair in short order. While they don't like being separated from the family, they do often like to have their own spot outdoors, too. They are certainly not suited to apartment living and will very quickly become destructive if not allowed to get the kind of exercise they need to not be nervous in such situations. Even if they do, such a small space makes these dogs far more nervous and aggressive than they need to be.

Description

The great, white, mountain dogs have been guarding sheep in the Pyrenees and serving in the French Royal court for hundreds of years. They have been very carefully selected to not only herd sheep, but also to protect them from any danger. They can even take on bears if necessary. Great Pyrenees dogs are also bred to fend off human attackers, so they make very good and loyal guard dogs. In slightly less rural situations, they will usually be aloof with people who visit the house and let them. The Pyr, as they are affectionately known, are massive dogs, with males weighing up to and over 160 pounds. Their fur is white or light colored and can be a few inches thick. They shed and so much that a veritable flurry of downy undercoat can moult in the summer. As such, the Great Pyrenees are not typically house dogs. Aside from their exercise requirements, which are great, they often prefer to be out of doors, running around and on the alert. Most Great Pyrenees dogs have very good eyesight and are tall enough to see trouble coming from a distance. Their heads are large and broad, supporting large jaws. Because they're so large it will take two years for these dogs to reach maturity. One distinguishing characteristic of the breed is the double dewclaw found on each back leg. They sometimes have more than one, but a vet typically removes those in excess of the usual two. They also have a unique metabolism that can actually produce an ailment if they're fed too rich a diet. They are still used widely for herding purposes with animals other than sheep, such as llamas, goats, horses and cattle. In the last 20 years they have become companion animals for some people, mostly those living in suburban areas. Special measures need to be taken to ensure they

don't escape and range about.

Coat Description

The Great Pyrenees coat is also an impressive sight. It is so thick; one may find it difficult to even part their fur well enough to see down to their skin. The undercoat is very thick and fluffy, often being at least two or more inches long. The coat becomes dirt repellent with preening. The inner and outer coats form a barrier that is quite waterproof and able to keep warm well under freezing.
History

The dogs that are known throughout Europe as mountain dogs seem to all be descended from a single breed that is first recorded in Eastern Europe and Western Asia as long as 12,000 years ago. The Great Pyrenees as its own distinct breed is known to go back to at least 5,000 years in the area of the Pyrenees Mountains in what is today Southern France and Northern Spain. They were little known outside the region until people began visiting the mountain countries in the late 19th century. At that time many dogs of ill breeding were sold to tourists and bought all over Europe to limited success. With the decline of major predators in Europe, the need for the Pyr declined greatly as did the breed's numbers until they were first established at kennels in the US, England and Belgium. Due to their massive size and strength, they have been used for various wartime purposes, most recently in World War II when they were harnessed with artillery-laden sleds and sent over the mountains. Not only were they capable of making the journey without supplies and guidance, but they were also able to guard their loads. Today they are most commonly farm or ranch dogs, although some live in suburban or urban environments with very good quality fences.
Temperament

These dogs have been bred to herd sheep and make decisions while being left on their own in the mountains for weeks or months at a time. Everything about their character is a result of their purpose. For starters, the Great Pyrenees is known for being independently minded. They do not blindly follow orders and become quickly bored with them when repeated on a regular basis. Letting this dog know you're trustworthy is of greater value than trying to assert your dominance.

They tend to think of their human masters as partners, which is, of course, how they've interacted with people for hundreds of generations. Training can be complicated by their imperious attitude. The breed tends to be quite good with children that are part of the family, though it is not recommended that very young or stranger children be allowed in the dog's presence unsupervised. Great Pyrenees do not like having their ears tugged, at all, and that's just the sort of things many children do. The squealing also bothers them. Though mostly about the business, Great Pyrenees dogs can be very affectionate with their human "flock." This is often demonstrated by lying their head on you or the characteristic leaning, for which they are famous. Dogs that are bonded to a family will usually try to sleep somewhere where they can touch some part of a family member unless they're confined outside. Great Pyrenees dogs can be aggressive at times and it will be apparent early on which dogs are far too aggressive to be kept. Any reputable breeder will be able to show you records pertaining to other pups in his or her line. Nipping such behavior in the bud is absolutely necessary, since an out of control Pyr could do some serious damage. However, with careful socialization and lots of gentle, positive reinforcement, the Great Pryrenees has no reason to be an aggressive dog. They are usually very confident creatures, accustomed to having the run of the place. As they become older they are even less likely to take kindly to strangers and are often perceived as "aloof," even with family members. You can be certain this is just your dog taking very careful stock of the situation, but it can be very off-putting to some people, but is simply how this breed operates. Positive re-enforcement of acceptable behaviour is the best course of action, whether your dog is actually fearful or not.
Health Problems

The breed is relatively small and the lines have been maintained for utility for many years. Congenital disorders are rare, but there are a few consequences of their great size that can cause difficulties. Stomach twisting or Bloat: Typically Great Pyrenees and other mountain dogs are fed two small meals each day. If they eat too much food too quickly they can literally twist their stomachs up. This is very painful for the dog and will eventually cause death if not reversed with surgery. Joint disorders: like most big dogs, they are prone to hip dysplasia. Being very careful with your Great Pyrenees for the first two years can minimize the likelihood of this. They are growing so rapidly at this time that any injury can manifest itself in a bone or joint deformity. A rare inherited condition, Deafness should be apparent from an early age. Ignoring your commands is only a particular sort and is not genetic.

Grooming

Those with Great Pyrenees can attest to the mountains of hair that come out of this dog. It's because this undercoat fur is continually being shed that the dog stays so clean. There are few dogs that produce quite so much hair as the Great Pyrenees. It falls out constantly, but really flies off them in the biannual "coat blowing" where it seems to come out in sheets and buckets. There is little that can be done to stop the coat blow once it has begun - all the brushing in the world will just seem to keep bringing more hair. However, a weekly combing (or even more often) will keep the hair down to a more manageable level. This can be accomplished with a rubber comb and will help keep mats and dreadlocks from forming. The rake-like "cotch comb" is also very good at pulling out large quantities of undercoat, as are "pinbrush" types that resemble wool cards. It is vitally important that you keep their dewclaws trimmed. These don't get worn down by exercise and can actually grow right into the dogs leg if they're not kept short. Pyr pups should have their paws regularly handled to get them used to the idea of being worked on. Some people even use a Dremmel tool to wear the nails down. Many owners make it a point to clip hair away from their hind quarters so nothing can get caught in the long fur that develops back there. Great Pyrenees puppies and dogs both hate having their ears touched, but it is vitally important you do so on a regular basis. Their floppy ears can turn into a real mess if you're not allowed to clean them out every month or so. This should entail a quick wipe around the outer ear with a gauze pad.
Exercise

The Great Pryrenees require at least two hours of exercise each day and will happily take much more. They have incredible stamina and if they're inclined to run around after something, they can do it all day long and still not seem to be tired. Though they are bred to trot at a relatively slow pace all day long, they are also capable of bursts of speed when they feel something is a threat. As such, they can easily get away from you if allowed off leash, and very often on the leash with you still attached. It is always a good idea to make sure your dog has plenty of water available when working out, especially in the summer. While the coat does help them stay cool (and should never be shaven off), it is still quite heavy and this breed needs special consideration in desert environments.

Training

They key to training the Great Pyrenees is to take his or her temperament into consideration before you do anything. These dogs are intelligent - so much so that they prefer to make their own decisions about most things. This means that the most important thing you can do to gain your dog's trust is to be fair. They have a highly developed sense of personal justice that develops with age. However, it is vitally important, for your dog's well being and your own sanity, that a few basic commands be obeyed with as little questioning as possible. It is also a good idea to prove to the dog that even if they don't ever quite get the idea of commands that you're capable of being even more stubborn than they are and command some respect. Because they are so resistant to taking commands, owners have found that they easily adapt to crate training when it comes to housebreaking. Since the puddles are tremendous, it is good to get this out of the way as soon as possible. It should prove far easier than getting the dog to reliably come when called. It is, however, of the utmost importance that you train the dog to be touched and handled when young. They should also be able to meet new people while on a lead without being aggressive in any way. Since they are so large, any such behavior problems has to be taken care of while the dog is quite young, otherwise they'll be far to old to correct and the habit will be long engrained and impossible to change.

Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs

Aliases: Grosser Schweizer Sennenhund, Large Swiss Mountain Dog, Swissie, GSMD, Great Swiss Cattle Dog, "poor man's horse"
Life Span:10 and 12 years. Litter Size:4 and 8 puppies. Group:Working Dog, Mastiff

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:black, white, and rust. Undercoat ranges from dark grey, light grey, to tawny. Hair Length:Medium Size:Extra Large

Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:25 1/2 - 28 1/2 inches Male Weight:Dogs: 105 - 140 pounds Female Height:Bitches: 23 1/2 - 27 inches Female Weight:Bitches: 85 - 110 pounds Living Area:Apartment size all the way to large yard size. This breed can also be content living in an apartment style space as long as it does get outside once daily.
Description

The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog is a Dober and Draft breed and should appear as such. They have a very striking yet powerful and strong appearance. They are heavy boned and well muscled. However, despite their large and powerful structure they are very agile and needed to be to perform a plethora of tasks in a mountainous region. Their expression is gentle and animated with almond brown shaped eyes. Their ears are medium sized, set high, and triangular in shape. They are rounded at the tips and hang near the head when in repose. When alert the ears are brought forward and raised at the base. The top of the ear should be level with the top of the skull. The muzzle is large, blunt, and straight. The backskull should be twice the width of the muzzle. The strong and muscular neck should be of moderate length. The chest is deep and broad with a breastbone that slightly protrudes. The depth of the chest is approximately one half of the total height of the dog at the withers. The shoulders should be flat, sloping, and well muscled. The forelegs are straight and strong. The feet are large with arched toes. The thighs are broad, strong, and muscular. The gait of the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog should have movement with a level black. The gait should have good reach in front with a powerful drive in the rear. They are a large breed but because of their history as farm dogs in mountainous terrain, they are extremely agile and this is apparent in their gait.
Coat Description

The coat of the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog is a double tri-colored coat. The outer coat is not any longer than 2 inches. The undercoat lines the outer coat and is considered to be very dense. The undercoat does show through especially at the neck. The showing of the undercoat is not considered a fault. The colors found in the tri-colored coat are: black, white, and rust. This breed has a mainly black coat with symmetrical white and black markings. The rust is found in a patch over each eye, on

the cheeks, and on either side of the chest. The white is found on the blaze of the muzzle, the tip of the tail, feet, and the chest. White markings on the neck or a white collar are permitted. However, any base color other than black is a serious fault and disqualification. The undercoat ranges from dark grey, light grey, to tawny.
History

The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog originated in the Swiss Alps farms and villages. It is considered to be the largest of the four Sennenhund Breeds. These include: Appenzell Cattle Dog, Entlebuch Cattle Dog, and the Bernese Mountain Dog. The Sennenhund breeds are said to be descendants of the Roman Mastiff. They were brought to the area more than 2000 years ago. The Greater Swiss Mountain dog has a natural ability for drafting which gave him the nickname "the poor man's horse." The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog have also contributed to the origin of the Saint Bernard. The popularity of the Saint Bernard led to the decline in popularity of the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog. This decline in popularity actually almost led to extinction. Dr. Albert Heim, an authority of the Sennenhund breeds rediscovered the Great Swiss Mountain Dog in 1908 while he was judging a dog show. He encouraged breeding of this dog and the response was strong. The breed was brought over to the United States in 1967. They still remain fairly rare even in Switzerland. However, they are a recognized breed. Their talents include: tracking, watchdogging, guarding, carting, and competitive obedience. This breed is still used on some farms to pull cheese or daily carts to market, although it is mostly ceremonial.
Temperament

The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog has a very loyal and protective nature without being aggressive. They are excellent watchdogs because of their courage and loyalty. They are known to bark at strange noises and intruders. This makes them excellent watchdogs because they are capable of being alert and delivering a warning without being aggressive. This breed makes excellent family pets. They love and desire to be part of the family and are very eager to please. They want to be involved in the family as much as possible. They prefer to be around their family and owner at all times. They are excellent around children. They are capable of adjusting well to other family pets and are typically not dog aggressive. This makes them an excellent choice for a family with other animals or dogs. They are occasionally known to chase and may need to be taught not to. They do have a slight territorial nature and therefore should be introduced to newcomers slowly. However, they respond well to the family's initiative and will accept strangers when the family has shown that they are acceptable. As puppies, the Greater Swiss Mountain dog is very friendly and rambunctious. This is shown through jumping and rowdy behavior, excessive barking, and chewing. They will get bored when left alone and are known to destructively chew things around the home. They also mature late and so the family or owner should be aware that maturity may not be reached until two or three years. Socialization is also very important as puppies because they need to learn to tell the difference between good guys and bad guys. They are quick to bark at strangers and strange noises and therefore should be trained that excessive barking is not necessary.

Health Problems hip dysplasia: Ball and joint problem of the hip that causes arthritic like symptoms and pain. elbow dysplasia: Joint problem causing pain and arthritic like symptoms.

Gastric torsion: Caused by Exercise after the ingestion of food and large quantities of water. Surgery is required.

distichiasis: Condition of the eye where extra eye lashes grow and curl inwards towards the eyes. This causes irritation and pain.

Epilepsy: Causes seizures.

Grooming

The maintenance of the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog is considered to be low to moderate. They are known to be moderate shedders. Shedding will increase during the two shedding seasons. Weekly brushing is recommended for the majority of the year; however increased brushing will be necessary during shedding seasons. A wire bristle brush is recommended for brushing of the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog. This breed should be bathed when necessary, however due to its size, this can be somewhat difficult at home. It can be taken to a professional to be groomed if the owner finds it too difficult a task to achieve at home. Because of their large size, it is important for the dog to get used to brushing and grooming from a young age. Teach the dog to stand nicely while it is being brushed and it will eventually just see it as a natural part of living. If the dog is being bathed at home it is important to use a dog shampoo and not human shampoo or liquid soap. The shampoo should also be rinsed thoroughly. It is important to try and minimize skin irritation as much as possible. The dog should be brushed thoroughly before bathing to ensure that all the dead hair has been removed.
Exercise

The exercise needs of the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog is considered to be low to moderate. They do require daily exercise and although a walk a day is sufficient, a run or an activity like cart pulling that adds a little more vigor is beneficial. The "more is better" rule definitely applies. The more exercise the dog receives the healthier and happier the dog will be. The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog does not fair well in warm, hot, and humid weather. They will overheat so this breed should not be over exercised when the weather is warmer. They adjust well to cooler weather and can be quite content outside in cooler weather.

They are traditionally working dogs and therefore an excellent way for the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog to receive its physical activity is getting it involved in working tasks. In addition they are excellent for competitive obedience. Obedience training is an excellent way for the dog to receive some physical activity as well as mental stimulation. They are very well natured with children and because of their history of cart pulling and being working dogs; they make excellent pets for winter play with children. Having the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog pull the kids on a sled or sleigh is an excellent way to enjoy the colder season and ensure the dog is obtaining enough exercise. Exercise as puppies is necessary as well but can be difficult because they are extremely rambunctious and display a very awkward and uncoordinated romp. As puppies they should be taken out daily because when left in the home and bored can become destructive. Their powerful jaws will be used to chew things in the home. The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog is quite capable of living in many different environments. Some caution should be taken when expecting a large dog to live in a small apartment is that it can make living uncomfortable. It is really the owner's preference and what they are comfortable with. This breed can also be content living in an apartment style space as long as it does get outside once daily. They will also be very happy living in a home with a fenced yard where they can spend some time outside. They are also excellent dogs to keep on the farm. They are working dogs and therefore would thrive in an environment where they should be around family as well as being involved in working tasks to ensure that they are not bored. Farming is an excellent atmosphere for them because there is always something that could be pulled somewhere or moved. It also gives them large spaces to run and romp and obtain exercise.
Training

to take The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog needs to have very consistent training from a very young age. They are dominant dogs that want to prove to the owner that they have a mind of their own. The owner or handler needs to prove to the dog that they have the upper hand and can make the dog listen to them. Training can also be difficult because of the late maturity of the breed. They remain puppies for about two or three years. This makes them an excellent dog for an experienced dog owner and perhaps not the best dog for a first time dog owner. However, there is always professional training available for the first time owner that needs some help if they are truly interested and dedicated in owning a Greater Swiss Mountain Dog. Socialization is the first part of training that is extremely important for this breed. Their nature as watchdogs and guard dogs combined with their loyal and protective nature can make them suspicious around strangers and new environments when not socialized properly. Suspicion needs to be dealt with at an early age because if it increases throughout the dog's life it can actually turn into defensive biting. Socialization can be done from the time the puppy is about 6 weeks old. It is important to take them to new environments and have them meet all types of different people. They are quick to

bark at new stimuli so this is also an excellent time to be just as quick to teach them that barking is not appropriate. With large dogs it is important that they are well mannered. Training should be firm and consistent. The owner needs to always have the upper hand. They are very large dogs and can be hard to handle and control and therefore the owner should be confident and have the ability charge. They also have a tendency to chase and should be taught from a young age that this is unacceptable as well. This will make taking them for walks or having other pets in the house much easier.

Greyhounds
Aliases: English Greyhound
Life Span:10-12 years, up to 15 Litter Size:6-9 puppies, average 8 puppies Group:hound, hounds, sporting,

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Brown, white, black tan, grey and any combination of those colors in large spots may be evident. They are said to be either solid colored or piebald. A tan brindle is also very common. Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:28-30 inches (71-76cm) Male Weight:65-70 pounds (29-32kg) Female Height:27-28 inches (68-71cm) Female Weight:60-65 pounds (27-29kg) Living Area:Surprisingly, these active dogs can be adapted to apartment life, in part, because they are so relaxed indoors. In the case of racing dogs, it may be they think your house is a big crate, and they'd be essentially correct. It's not until they get outside and see things to chase and investigate that they become restless.

They do, of course, get along quite well in rural areas though they may have to be kept behind a very tall fence to keep them from chasing off after something and forgetting to come back.
Description

The favored dog of betting tracks everywhere, this tall and slim dog is all about speed. They have been clocked in excess of 40 miles per hour and absolutely love running. Their gait is graceful and easy. Greyhounds have many adaptations that facilitate their fantastic speed. For instance, their spines are unusually flexible and they can often be seen in what appear to be impossibly hunched positions. Their tails are long and slightly curled at the bottom. Their bones are long and thin and they often appear as if they need a sandwich because of their very deep chests and small waists. Their heads are small for the size of their body and the ears are small for the size of their head. They are primarily sight and scent hounds and certainly have the height and keen eyesight to see a long way. As a breed, the next most obvious greyhound characteristic is their obsession with chasing down and snapping the neck of any small creature that your dog may spy. This includes the family cat and it is generally not recommended that greyhounds share a home with a cat or any other preylike animal that might be your pet such as ferrets, rabbits, gerbils, hamsters, etc. Even specimens that don't seem nearly as interested in chasing small animals will go after them, often when you least expect it. In the home as companion animals they are very relaxed, often to the point of laziness. While they love physical activity, they seem to forget this when confined to a house and make very good housedogs, assuming your couch is large enough to accommodate them.
Coat Description

Very short, fine hair is continually shed. However, there's so little of it most people don't notice. Some greyhounds so thoroughly shed in the summer that they go bald on the chest, though this is considered a fault in show. In fact, the coat is so thin that many greyhounds are seen sporting sweaters during the winter months in temperate climates. It may become a bit spotty during the summer moult.
History

The origins of the greyhound go back to the early middle ages, when traders brought Sloughi dogs to England from Arabia. They became the basis for what would soon become a fearsome hunting dog the ability to run down game without stopping. They are usually associated with the hunting of smaller animals such as fox, but have been known to catch up with and take down full-grown deer.

They were also prized for ability as a sight hound as well and have been selected for a long time to have a noble carriage when not actually on the hunt but ready to leap into action at a moment's notice. The breed itself is known to have been the companion of nobility from the 16th century onward; achieving particular fame in Great Britain during the 19th century when dog shows first became popular. Since the early 20th century there have been essentially two breeds of Greyhound that are registered with separate stud books: racing dogs and show dogs. As such, they differ with the show dogs typically making better companion animals because they have fewer congenital disorders later in life. The breed has gotten larger and heavier over the course of the 20th century. As such, they may be somewhat more prone to hip dysplasia.
Temperament

Unless you're a rabbit, greyhounds are among the most gentle and calm dogs with your family or strangers. They are generally not interested in the affairs of people unless there is a chance they'll be let outside for some running. Quite intelligent, the greyhound is able to pick up training rather quickly. The racing industry has had a profound effect on the breed, with many dogs having been bred for speed and the ability to remain calm in the crate before being sprung for a race. As such, while there may be many disorders that plague this breed in old age, they usually are very good with people, though not always friendly in the traditional sense of the word. Greyhounds are usually quite good with other dogs, and former racing dogs have already been well socialized while young. If you buy a greyhound pup you'll have to do that yourself, but they seem to readily accept the company of other dogs. The breed is surprisingly good with children, and greyhounds tolerate a great deal of shenanigans from older children without problem. Being somewhat fragile, they are leery of roughhousing and will simply get up and walk away from a situation they deem dangerous. Very young children may find themselves chased due to their high pitched squeals that sound more like wounded animal than a human being. Barking is usually not a major problem, as this too has been carefully bred out of the dogs, though they often bark and yip when confined too long or are chasing prey. In a household situation they make terrible guard dogs since they're simply too relaxed to care much what humans are doing.

Health Problems

Generally speaking greyhounds are healthy dogs, in no small part because they have to be. Sadly, the greyhounds bred for racing have several ailments, many of which don't appear until later in life. The typical racing career of these dogs is just a few years, so they have been bred for many generations in the United States, Great Britain with only the first few years of their lives in mind. Show dogs are often healthier as a general rule, but may actually be a bit higher strung. Hip and joint disorders: hip dysplasia is a somewhat common disorder that can strike dogs as young as 3-4 years, though is more common over 5. There is very little that cane be done for this genetic disorder other than trying to prevent it through gentle work when the dog is still a pup. Broken bones: Greyhound bones are quite delicate for such a big dog. They can harm themselves by too vigorously chasing something over rough terrain. If your dog is limping, get him or her to the vet for an immediate exam. A common effect: Chemical sensitivity means your dog could break out in hives after bathing or after flea treatment. Consult a vet before administering sub-dermal chemical flea and tick control. If you put a flea collar on your dog, be sure to check and make sure they're not reacting badly to it. Baby and puppy shampoos can usually be used without problem, though your greyhound is unlikely to need more than the annual bath. Though the problem is rare,most greyhounds are fed small meals several times a day to avoid Bloat,the painful twisting of the stomach that can accompany especially large meals.
Grooming

Keeping a greyhound well groomed is very simple, since their coat is so fine and thin already. In fact, a simple rub with a hound cloth or a quick combing with a rubber comb to stimulate the skin will be much appreciated every week or two. Dogs that are allowed out for exercise will usually have enough work on a hard surface to keep their nails short without requiring trimming, but those greyhounds that still have their dewclaws (they are often removed when the dogs are young) will need them trimmed every few weeks. Since they have floppy ears (rose ears, they're called), they will benefit from regular ear cleaning. This can be very carefully accomplished with a gauze pad used to gingerly wipe around the outside of the ear. Never plunge a q-tip into your greyhound's ear canal. It's an even worse idea for your dog than it is for you. The well-groomed greyhound will also have careful attention paid to the condition of their skin, as they can have trouble with allergies. This may include hives, pustules, redness, swelling or scaly dander that resembles eczema. Be careful of what you put on, as it could make it worse. Severe cases should be nipped in the bud and a vet consulted.

The coat is impregnated with dog oils that keep them from getting too wet or dirty. This may seem a little unlikely, especially in the worst of the summer when they become a bit patchy. Regardless, they should only be bathed when absolutely necessary - usually bathing as an annual event is sufficient for most Greyhounds. They love the occasional dip in the lake or misting as long as there's no soap around. It is a good idea to get your dog used to the handling that even a simple regimen. This means making sure you go through the motions and carefully examine their paws ears on a very regular basis when your greyhound pup is new. If you're adopting a former racing dogs, they are just as devoid of the social graces as the newborn pup, so making sure your greyhound can be handled without incident.
Exercise

These dogs love to run. While they are famous as couch potatoes when indoors, they get the bug as soon as they go outdoors and you will have to take special care to train them to leash walking without pulling you along for the ride. Since they are usually easy with other dogs they do very well in dog parks with off-leash areas. Here, they can carouse with other dogs and really enjoy their ability to outrun every other member of the pack. Many people also take them for a run while they pedal a bicycle. This is usually a fine form of exercise, but care must be taken to not injure the dog, as hey can be a bit spindly. Their paws are also very small and very frequent running on asphalt can damage the pads. It's a good idea to inspect their feet regularly and perhaps get them booties for protection.
Training

The training of a puppy differs greatly from the training of a retired racing dog that one may adopt, though they still have to learn many of the same things. For instance, the organizations that train dogs for new homes after racing careers often have to teach them how to climb stairs, though they seem to take to furniture readily. Both will likely have to be housebroken, too. This is usually fairly quick for the adult dog, though greyhound puppies take to it very quickly, too. Older dogs that do have some difficulty often respond to the crate training they should have already mastered in such situations. Be sure the crate is plenty big so your dog can turn around without having to compress his or her spine to do it. They tend not to bark very often at all and can easily be trained out of it if the trait develops as a pup. Usually taking your greyhound for a walk is enough to get all the pent up energy out of their systems and defuse the bark. While they are generally good with other dogs, when the pack is larger then four or five dogs,

they can be some conflict, especially among males, though females are by no means exempt. You can work on this with your dog by using a "turning out muzzle" and rewarding good behavior. Though greyhounds can be a bit stubborn at times as far as training goes, but they do usually want to please their owners. Though not particularly protective to the family group, they are loyal and often bond to family members in very short order upon arrival.

Harriers
Aliases: Harehound
Life Span:10-12 years. Litter Size:7-8 puppies per litter. Group:Hound Group / Scenthound Family

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:black, white & tan, red & white, black & tan, black, tan & white, lemon & white, tan, open-markings with lots of white and white Hair Length:Short Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:19-21 inches at the withers Male Weight:50-60 pounds Female Height:19-21 inches at the withers Female Weight:50-60 pounds Living Area:Not recommended as apartment dogs, the breed does best in a rural environment with a securely fenced-in yard.
Description

A Harriers head is long, flat, and wide, with a strong muzzle that is substantial in depth; the lips should cover the lower jaw and help define a sharp square look. The bold forehead accentuates

their gentle or alert expression. Teeth should meet in a scissors bite, though level is accepted. Eyes are of medium size, oval, and well-set apart. Darker dogs should have either brown or hazel eyes, while lighter dogs eyes' range from yellow to light hazel. The nose is wide, black, and with well-opened nostrils. Ears are low-set with rounded tips; pendant shaped, and should lie close to the cheeks. In general the head should be in proportion to the rest of the dog. The topline is level, muscular, and should not drop behind the withers. Neck is long with no excess skin; blending smoothly into the forequarters. The front legs may tend to knuckle over slightly, but not exaggerated, while the hind legs are well muscular and only slightly angulated. Feet are round and catlike, with the toes set close together with thick strong pads; front feet turn slightly inwards while the back feet point straight ahead. Ribs are well-sprung, extending to the elbows; the chest is longer that it is wide. The loin is short, slightly arched, and well muscled. They should be slightly longer than tall. The tail is long, carried high (but not curled over the back), tapered to a point, and should be slightly tufted. Overall, the Harrier was built for endurance, rather than speed. The powerful, developed muscles help provide the strength for working long hours on any terrain. In essence, they are really a smaller version of the English Foxhound.
Coat Description

The coat is short, dense, hard and glossy coat. It should not be too short or flat. Ears should have a finer texture compared to the rest of the body. There should be a brush of hair on the underside of the tail. There is no set standard regarding color, as it is not considered very important. Colors may include: black, white & tan, red & white, black & tan, black, tan & white, lemon & white, tan, open-markings with lots of white and white. In France a tricolor with black mantle covering the back (like a blanket) is preferred. The back is usually all black. In the US, the typical Harrier is tan, black & white with a black back, tan on the head, ears, and legs, white on the feet, muzzle, chest, underside, blaze and on the tip of the tail.
History

Unlike most breeds, the Harrier is believed to be bred down from the English Foxhound by selective breeding. Except for size, the Harrier looks to be just a smaller sized Foxhound. They are also thought to be "cousins" to the Talbot and Old Southern Hounds, and may have contributed to the Small Game Anglo-French Hound. The name Harrier means hound in Norman-Saxon, and because of this it is thought that the Harrier traveled to England alongside the Normans. Developed primarily for hunting hare, they have also been used in fox hunting. The first pack of Harriers in England was called the Penistone, established by Sir Elias de Midhope in 1260 it held together for at least five centuries. Hunting was very popular throughout the British Isles, most likely because the pack could be followed on foot. Packs contained a hundred plus dogs, most of them scratch packs. Scratch packs were made up of Harriers owned by various people; by doing

this the common, or poor people, were able to participate. During the 17th to 18th century they were owned mostly by the poor people, while the wealthy class owned the Foxhounds. The breeds was then adapted to hunting fox in front of a group of horse-mounted riders (though most packs were able to hunt both fox and hare). Harriers have been in the United States since Colonial times. General George S. Patton was Master of the Cobbler Harriers (a pack) from 1936-1938. The last pack of Harriers was in the late 1960s, before everyone got into foxhounds and foxhunts. They were first admitted into the AKC Stud Book in 1885. The breed is still relatively rare in the US. In 1877 only two Harriers were shown in the first Westminster Kennel Club. Today, most are housepets, though some are being shown or obedience. Only a handful are still used in hare hunts, as they work game that are too fast for Beagles, very well.
Temperament

The Harrier is a friendly, outgoing dog that loves to pay. Their sweet-tempered, gentleness and affectionate nature make them excellent with children; they will put up with almost anything. Preferring not to be alone, they enjoy life in a pack with people, other dogs, or both. As a pack breed, they must be able to work closely with other hounds, hence why any dog aggressiveness will not be put up with. If raised with them from puppyhood, they should get along well with cats, and other small pets. They love to go exploring, and their keen-nose will trail any scent it finds; be sure to keep them on leash or in an enclosed area. Though great watchdogs, barking at anything unusual, they do not make good guard dogs. They love everything, and everybody, and will let anyone into your home. Built for endurance, this persistent hound is lively and energetic, but not hyperactive; it is known for its prey to collapse from pure exhaustion when pursued by the Harrier. One of the best things about Harriers is that they can always make you laugh; they are complete clowns, always wanting to play (not only as puppies, but through their entire lives). They want to be part of the family, and will greet you with such joy when you leave for even 5 minutes, like they have not seen you in years. Because the breed was bred to work all day out in front, or away, from the hunters, they have to be able to think things out for themselves and to never give up. If you're looking for a breed that dwells on your attention and affection, then this is not a breed for you. Harriers are very independent, and will go and make their own entertainment, though they should not be unsupervised as they will get into mischief. Some like to bay usually in a low, deep voice. They have been known to hunt hare and fox, and even deer and wild boar.
Health Problems

Harriers, in general, are one of the healthiest breeds of dog. The main reason for this is because of the rarity of the breed; there is not high demand for them. Therefore breeders are only Breeding only the very best to the very best. Rare cases seen are: hip dysplasia (looseness in the hip joint that can lead to lameness or arthritis), Epilepsy, and jaw malformations. Though no eye problems have been found with the breed, it is still encouraged to buy puppies from parents that are both CERF and OFA certified

(OFA tests for hip dysplasia). Though genetically the breed is healthy, this does not mean it cannot catch viruses or disease, cancer, or other illnesses.
Grooming

A short-haired breed, the Harrier is easy to groom and requires little to no care; brushing is recommended once a week. Not only will it keep the coat clean and healthy, but it will also give you a chance to check on their health, as well as strengthen your bond with one another. Brushing is only required to remove any dead hair or dirt, a brush or comb works well. They are minimum to average shedders; the majority tends to be seasonal. Bathe only when needed. Ears should be checked on a regular basis. Nails tend to grow fast, so should be trimmed or checked weekly. The hind feet tend to grow slower than the front feet; a guillotine type trimmer works best. Teeth should be brushed at least twice weekly with dog approved toothpaste and brush. Not only does it remove plague and tarter, but it also prevents periodontal disease, which can cause pain, teeth loss, and bad breath.
Exercise

The Harrier is a very energetic breed; it needs a sufficient amount of exercise or it will become bored and destructive. They do tend to get overweight and lethargic if not exercised. They enjoy the outdoors, and are good companions for jogging, bicycling, hiking, camping, boating etc. If introduced to water as pups, they may enjoy swimming as well. Due to their breeding, they are inclined to following their noses and wandering off; they should not be left alone outside unless properly secured in a yard. Elderly or disabled people may have trouble keeping up with their energy level. Once they have been sufficiently exercised, inside the home they are generally very calm. Lying in your lap, playing quietly with the kids or their toys, they are really a wonderful dog. Not recommended as apartment dogs, the breed does best in a rural environment with a securely fenced-in yard. Lots of daily exercise would be needed if considering living in an apartment, or city. They can live outdoors as long as warm shelter and bedding is given, though they are not happy being without their family. They are very social and people-oriented, if they are to be alone most of the day consider getting another dog to play with; a bored Harrier is a destructive Harrier.
Training

Because of their independence and stubborn nature, obedience is highly suggested to start at a very early age. They are very intelligent, and easy to train. Though not many are seen in obedience competitions, they are capable of doing it, though it requires a lot of time and energy on your part. They love agility (probably because of their awesome problem solving skills) and tracking, which they pick up easily. Also a great breed to show for beginner and experienced handlers alike, though it may be hard to find other Harriers to compete against.

If you are looking for a breed that wants to constantly be with you, at your beck and call, then this is not a breed for you. Harriers love to be with you, but they do not depend on your for their entertainment. Because of this, they may get into trouble causing mischief to entertain themselves. They are not recommended for the first-time dog owner, as one of the biggest problems with the breed is wanting to be in charge. NILIF works great, they need to be shown consistent discipline and let know that you are in charge. The breed adores food and may tend to try and counter surf. They are also very talkative and love to bay in a deep low voice. Some may also like to dig, either because they find it fun, but most are searching for critters underground, or out of pure boredom. All of these "traits" can be fixed with early training, they must be taught not to... no leeway or giving in, or they will never stop.

Havaneses
Aliases: Bichon Havanis, Havana Silk Dog
Life Span:14-15 years Litter Size:1-9 puppies - the average is 4 Group:Bichon/Toy Group Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:any color, including gold, cream, white, silver, blue and black Hair Length:Medium, Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:8 1/2-11 1/2 inches tall Male Weight:7 -13 pounds Female Height:8 1/2-11 1/2 inches tall Female Weight:7-13 pounds Living Area:The Havanese is well suited to living indoors.

Description

The Havanese is a small and sturdy dog, and part of the Bichon family of breeds. This family also includes the Bichon Frise and the Maltese. They are just slightly longer than tall with untrimmed wavy hair. The Havanese has traditionally been a family pet in their native country of Cuba. In fact, for many years, the Havanese was the traditional lap dog of Cuban aristocracy. Throughout the years, this breed has also been used to herd poultry. They are recognizable for their especially springy gait in walking. This gait is caused by the fact that their front legs are slightly shorter than their hind legs. The Havanese is a toy dog, so they are quite small, though they don't appear fragile or delicate. Their eyes are set high on their heads and are dark brown and almond shaped. Their ears are of medium length and when extended, reach halfway to the nose. They are set high up and are folded and broad at the base. The rims around their eyes and lips should be black, except in a true chocolate dog. Their muzzles are fairly short and their noses are broad with a square shape. They typically have a scissors bite. Their necks are moderately long and arch slightly. They have a deep chest and a high set tail with a plume of long hair that arcs forward over their backs. The tail does not curl completely around, but rests naturally above and slightly over the back. The Havanese has very well boned and muscular legs with round feet. These dogs have a double coat that is designed to protect them from the tropical heat. It is light and soft in texture, and should never be wiry. They have long hair over their eyes, and unlike other toy dogs this hair is never gathered up in a topknot, as it is also part of their unique heat fighting design.
Coat Description

Havanese come in three coat types-smooth, curly and wavy, which is the preferred type. Their coat grows to about 6-8 inches in length and has a pearly sheen. Their coat is thick, but light since it is designed to act as a sunshade. It is not protective from the cold. The hair has a very silky feel and hardly sheds. Hair should never be coarse. The Havanese requires regular brushing to prevent tangling, unless you decide to keep it short. While the Havanese hardly sheds, they do collect dander in their fur. For this reason, even though they are considered hypoallergenic, some people with severe allergies can still react to the Havanese coat. The short coated Havanese is considered a mutation, and is not recognized by any breed registries. These cannot be shown or bred, but are perfectly healthy for house pets. Havanese with these short coats, however, do shed, and are not considered hypoallergenic. The original Havanese Silk dogs were all white, but today's Havanese can be found in any color, including gold, cream, white, silver, blue and black. Some dogs are tri or parti-colored, as well. A preferred color in North America is chocolate. In order to qualify as a chocolate Havanese, the dog must have at least a one inch patch of chocolate colored hair. For years, chocolate and black Havanese were not recognized in Europe, but today all colors are recognized all over the world.

History

The Havanese breed originated in Cuba, and is part of the Bichon group of breeds. The breed was created from the Bichon lapdogs brought to Cuba from Europe during the 17th century. The original Bichons that came from Europe were not suited to the Cuban climate, and over the years, the dogs adapted, eventually giving way to an entirely new breed, the Blanquito de la Habana, also known as the Havanese Silk Dog. These dogs were smaller than the original Bichons and entirely white, with a silkier coat. During the 19th century, French and German poodles began coming to Cuba from Europe and the Cubans began to cross them with the Blanquito de la Habana, creating today's Havanese. The Havanese was the preferred pet of Cuban aristocracy during the 18th and 19th centuries. Their unique coats survived the intense tropical heat of Cuba quite well. Cubans bred the dogs throughout the 20th century. Breeding began in the US in the 1970s, using Havanese dogs brought with Cuban families that immigrated to the US. Somewhere along the way, some German breeders began to have some litters that included puppies with shorter coats that were close lying on the body, but with some feathering on the skirts, tail, ears and legs. It has now been discovered that there is a short haired recessive gene carried by some Havanese dogs. If two Havanese with this recessive gene are bred together, some of the puppies will have these smooth coats. These odd coated Havanese are now called Smooth Coated Havanese or Shavanese. This short coated variety of Havanese cannot be shown or bred, but they make very healthy house pets. Today, the Havanese is still fairly rare in the US, and they are quite expensive. Because of the rarity and expense of this breed in the US, it has been found that many people try and pass off mixed breeds as purebred Havanese. If you're considering purchasing a Havanese it's important to use a reputable breeder and to have a good understanding of the lineage of your puppy. These dogs often sell for $2000 each, and good breeders often have a waiting list for their puppies.
Temperament

The Havanese is a very playful dog that tends to be quite clever in getting attention. Havanese can often be seen performing tricks in order to get the attention of new guests in the home. In fact, because of their propensity to do tricks, this breed has long been used in the circus. This is a great family dog, because they are small enough to be easy to keep in the house, but they are not snappish or yappy like many other toy breeds. They love children and make very good playmates for them. Unlike other toy breeds, they can tolerate clumsy and sometimes rough play of children. Havanese are intelligent and very playful. They want to be near their owners and they want attention and playtime. This dog is known to follow their owners around from room to room. They can be taught to do tricks and are eager to please their owners. However, as much as they love their owners, they are not possessive of them nor aggressive when their owners express affection for people or other animals. In fact, Havanese do quite well with other pets in the home and often make playmates of them.

Havanese are not prone to excessive barking, but they will bark to alert you to visitors and will be wary of strangers until you have welcomed them. Once the dog observes that you're comfortable with a visitor, however, he will be very friendly. These dogs are not prone to shyness. And, despite their size, they do not show any fear. Their combination of friendliness, eagerness to please and comfort will all kinds of people and animals makes this one of the best dogs, particularly for families with allergies or who need a small pet.
Health Problems

Havanese are prone to a variety of Health Problems. They are particularly prone to Cataracts, and these often develop before the dogs have reached a truly advanced age. They often have dry skin and can require treatment to prevent severe itching. They are also prone to patellar luxation and Progressive Retinal Atrophy. PRA is a genetic, inherited disease of the retina (the "film" in the camera), which occurs in both eyes simultaneously. The disease is not painful, and there is no cure for it. The eyes are genetically programmed to go blind. Most Havanese that develop PRA do so later in life, but it can be found at earlier ages as well. The first signs of PRA include poor vision at night or during low light conditions.
Grooming

The Havanese has a fairly long coat that does not shed. However, it can become easily tangled and must be brushed daily to keep it from matting. If your Havanese is not to be shown, you can keep the coat clipped short to make grooming much easier. However, keep in mind that the Havanese's coat was designed to protect him from the heat, so you should not clip his coat very short if he is to be left outdoors during hot weather, as he will actually be hotter. Though the Havanese naturally has a long and wooly looking coat, it is designed to protect from heat, not from cold, so this dog is not designed to spend long periods of time out in the cold, either. However, since most Havanese dogs live primarily indoors with their families, a short coat is far more practical. The Havanese is designed to have a natural appearance in his coat. Therefore, even for show dogs, back combing and fussing of the coat is not allowed. The dog's coat should be well groomed of course, but never "styled" in appearance nor clipped for showing. The very long hair around the feet, however, can be clipped.
Exercise

The Havanese needs a moderate amount of exercise. They are quite energetic, but are small enough to be able to run off some of their energy in the house. They'll be quite happy with a small yard area where they can run around some each day. They can also get sufficient exercise from accompanying their owner on a daily walk. The Havanese is well suited to living indoors, though they are a very active breed. They will be happiest indoors where they can be part of the family, but they will do best with an outdoor area where they can be allowed to run off some of their energy. This dog doesn't shed and tends to be hypoallergenic, so they make a great house pet, even for allergy sufferers. However, since some

people with severe allergies can still have a reaction to the dander of the Havanese, it's wise to spend some time with one before you bring it into your home to live if you're an allergy sufferer.
Training

The Havanese is very intelligent and eager to please. These two qualities make them quite easy to train. They are eager to do tricks to entertain you, so once you've completed the basics of training, they'll be eager to learn some fun tricks. They have an exceptionally good sense of smell and will love to play games of "find" where you hide an object and they hunt it down. Your Havanese should be very easy to house train, as they will quickly understand your displeasure when they use the bathroom indoors. Because of their size and sensitivity to the cold, many owners choose to paper train their Havanese if they live in a very cold climate. This allows them to avoid sending the dog outside in cold weather and snow. Whichever method of house training you choose will work well with a Havanese. Havanese are said to never eat alone. This is because they want to always be in the same room with their owners. So, if your Havanese is eating and you leave the room, you can expect him to follow you, likely with food in his mouth, which he will drop on the floor and eat. This can be a bit annoying, so many owners have a set feeding time for their Havanese, and only have food available at this time. Then, they either confine the dog to the room where the food is waiting, or stay in the room with the dog while he eats. Whenever you're training a puppy, use a firm voice for commands and admonishments is important, as your dog will respond to the firmness in your voice. However, it is very important that you not be too harsh in speaking to your Havanese, as it will only frighten him and make it difficult to accomplish any training results.

Ibizan Hounds
Aliases: Ibzy
Life Span:10-14 years Litter Size: 4-8 puppies, average 6 puppies Group:Southern, AKC Hound

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Red/White, White/Tan, Solid Red, Solid White, Multicolored

Hair Length:Short

Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:23-28 (56-74 cm.) Male Weight:42-55 pounds (19-20 kg.) Female Height:22-26 Female Weight:45 pounds Living Area:They are best kept in a fenced area where they have room to exercise on a regular basis. The most suitable space for them is at least 40X60 feet.
Description

The Ibizan Hound is an athletic and agile hound that is recognized for its long, arched neck, long wedge-shaped head, and amber eyes. The eyes of the Ibizan Hound are generally quite large and amber in color. The hound has triangular ears which stand straight up when the dog is alert, and the teeth of this breed are very healthy. The Ibizan Hound is famous for its unique nose, often called a "Roman Nose" with a slightly convex shape and rose color. It is considered to be a sighthound, and has a fine-boned body that is more athletic and muscular in structure than other hounds with similar backgrounds. The body of the Ibizan Hound is less slender but well balanced; it has sleek and flat muscles that are light and agile. The Ibizan Hound's front legs are usually perfectly straight, and it often seems like they are standing on tiptoes. The tail is long and slender and tends to hangs lower when the dog is relaxed, and straight up when it is alert. The Ibizan Hound's dewclaws can be removed for easier traveling, or left in their natural state. The dog is considered to be hare-footed with long toes. The Ibizan Hound is distinguishable in three different varieties: smooth-haired, wire-haired, and long-haired. The most common is the smooth-haired hound while the long-haired variety is quite rare. The wire-haired hounds have a longer coat and rough-textured hair. The most common color combinations include white and red, solid white, solid red, or white and tan. Ibizan Hounds love to interact with humans and can be trained to be respectful with household rules. They tend to blush when excited, and will flush red when they are anxious, happy, or eager to please. These dogs are very intelligent and will learn new skills very quickly. They tend to get bored easily and will want to play and interact often. They can become good sports dogs, and are very sensitive to voice and noise. Training this dog requires a high level of energy and ongoing activities. It's best to enjoy a range of activities and teach the dog to learn healthy behaviors at home and around young children.

Coat Description

Ibizan Hounds have three different hair varieties: smooth-haired, long-haired, and wire-haired. The shine on the coat is naturally smooth and requires little maintenance. The hair can be kept in good condition with a simple brushing and is smoothest on the undercoat and sides of the dog.
History

The Ibizan Hound has been depicted in many Ancient Egyptian art forms, and dogs painted on hieroglyphs and sculptures from over 5,000 years ago closely resemble the hound. The dog is thought to have been brought to the Western world from Egyptian and Spanish traders around 700-900 BC. It is a common dog found on the island of Ibiza and nearby islands often reduced their rabbit and small game counts because of Ibiza Hound hunts. Since the Ibiza Hound enjoys many types of hunts and terrain-exploration, it has become a very fast breed. Working primarily by sight and smell, it can also be used for nocturnal hunting and is a valuable asset to many game hunters. Many Spanish hunters have become famous for running and raising these dogs in packs so that they can make the most of their instinctual skills. This breed is excellent in the sport of lure coursing, and can also make an exceptional show dog. The Ibizan Hound has a large and multi-colored coat, and is most often associated with the Pharaoh Hound. It was fully recognized by the AKC in 1979.
Temperament

The Ibizan Hound is often called a Beezer for being clean, playful, polite, and quiet. They do get excited but are sensible and sensitive to their surroundings. They are independent dogs, and can be protective of their owners. They are watchful and vigilant, making them instinctively secure and helpful with staying guarded. The Ibizan Hound is bred to hunt small creatures such as rabbits, cats, rodents, mice, and other small pets. Its best to keep these animals out of their way, but cats will fine as long as the hound knows it well enough. The Ibizan Hound socializes well with other dogs, humans, and even children. They are especially well-suited for companionship with puppies of their own breed, and are pack animals by nature. Introducing a baby to the family must be done carefully since the Ibizan Hound can become very guarded with any new people in their territory. These dogs tend to mature quickly and rapidly, as they are natural learners and will pick up skills with great vigor and intensity. They enjoy plenty of exercise, and tend to get bored easily. If they are not trained properly, they may become destructive, loud, or gruff. It is important for trainers and family members to watch their tone and language as these dogs are very sensitive to voice and noise.
Health Problems

This is a hardy breed, but the Ibizan Hound does have some notable allergic reactions to drugs and propensity to some disease:

Allergies: The Ibizan hound is allergic to some drugs, insecticides, and flea powders Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness. Osteochondritis Dissecans: a degenerative disease of the joints, associated with over-nutrition and too-fast growth of puppies. Collie Eye Anomaly: can cause blindness, but is not a progressive disease. Epilepsy: a neurological seizure disorder Axonal Dystrophy: a nerve and muscle disease Seizures: Some lines of Ibizan hounds are more prone to seizures. Von Willebrands Disease: a blood clotting disorder. Cardiomyopathy Deafness Hypothyroidism and Hyperparathyroidism: conditions of hormonal imbalance.
Grooming

Grooming requirements vary depending on the variety of Ibizan Hound. There are three different varieties of Ibizan Hounds: smooth-haired, wire-haired, and long-haired. Since the hair is generally short, it does not require much maintenance and grooming. The best way to keep the smooth-haired coat in good condition is to run a rubber glove over it. Wire-haired varieties can be simply cleaned up with hand-plucking, and occasional brushing will help keep hair smooth, soft, and silky. Brushing also helps to stimulate the skin's natural oil production, and long-haired types will require additional brushing sessions to maintain their fresh sheen. Owners of the Ibizan Hound will need to make sure that ear passages are clean and claws are kept trim and clean. This breed tends to shed at an average rate, and thus makes it less necessary to worry about stray hairs and shedding on furniture. Nails can be clawed completely or at least kept short. This ensures that the dog is comfortable and can engage in physical activity on a regular basis. Maintaining the length of the claws may require you to clip them yourself or have this completed by a professional. Bathing and shampooing are necessary on a regular basis, but even more so after extra play or rolling in dirt. The natural smell of the dog is a good indicator of when a bathing session is required. Checking for ticks during tick season is a good idea, and taking the dog to the Vet on a regular basis will ensure that they meet other health criteria.

Exercise

Since the Ibizan Hound has boundless energy, they naturally require plenty of exercise. If they are not found in a large fenced-in area, they are more likely to run away so it is best to keep track of this dog even when they are in the backyard. The Ibizan Hound requires between two to three long walks per day, and will often stretch their legs after a run. They enjoy running alongside bicycles, or with rollerskates. They should not be running until they are fully grown, however, as too much exercise can harm the young puppies. Since these dogs are incredibly independent and lively, they are also very fast. They will tend to dart off on their own if they are unrestrained; it's important to maintain them in a secure area when they are unleashed. An ideal exercise for them is to run alongside with you for a long stretch, or taking an early morning and early evening walk. They need fresh air and plenty of space to run freely. It's important to remember that the Ibizan Hound can also jump higher than most dogs from a complete standstill, and can jump over fences if they are unrestrained. It may take some time to train them to come back home if they are unleashed in a park or other large setting. Each dog has its own personality, so it may take some time to learn what type of exercise suits your dog best. Different activities and different environments will keep the dog's mind sharp, attentive, and alert. The Ibizan Hound is happy and well-behaved when you pay enough attention to its needs, and you can steadily increase its physical stamina over time. The Ibizan Hound needs plenty of exercise and space to move around, so apartments are all right for these dogs as long as they receive enough exercise and can engage in their favorite physical activities. They are moderately active even indoors, but will be at their best with a back yard or lawn space. These dogs can jump very high and can jump over fences with ease. They move fast and efficiently and are not easy to catch once they are motion. They are sighthounds so they naturally will hunt by sight rather than scent. They have selective hearing as well, and will train themselves to hunt in specific settings. The Ibizan Hound has a tendency to run off on its own and not return until they feel like it. This can make it difficult for owners to trace them down, and since their chase instinct is so strong, they may be more prone to traffic accidents and disasters. They are best kept in a fenced area where they have room to exercise on a regular basis. The most suitable space for them is at least 40X60 feet. Since their coat is thin and not very protective, they are also sensitive to cold and will fare well in warmer climates and surroundings.
Training

The Ibizan Hound is very intelligent and will learn new skills exceptionally quickly. They are very sensitive to noise and voice, and will pick up your tone immediately. Ibizan Hounds can gain a lot of skills with a respect training program where you are involved with teaching good manners and correcting behavior problems with ease. This breed learns well with education and teaching it positive daily behaviors will help you earn its respect.

Training in small steps is ideal since they can become overwhelmed easily with an overbearing training method. These dogs need constant stimulation and will learn well in an interactive setting. It is important to use the right tone at all times, and make sure that enough attention is given to the dog's weaknesses as soon as they become evident. Harsh criticism, manners, and tones can cause this dog to lose respect and become hostile. It's important to understand the personality of the dog before implementing steps for change. Early training and socialization will help the Ibizan Hound bond with both humans and small animals. They are gentle with young children, but their size and activity level can be overwhelming for some children. Making sure the dog receives plenty of physical touch and affection is an important part of their growth. The dogs will bond better with other dogs and family members when they feel comfortable, respected, safe, and secure.

Irish Setters
Aliases: Red Setter
Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size:8-10 puppies Group:Gun Dog, AKC Sporting Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:reddish browns from chestnut to mahogany, some white on chest and feet acceptable. No other colors are allowed. Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:26-28 inches (66-71cm) Male Weight:65-75 pounds (29-34kg) Female Height:24-26 inches (61-66cm) Female Weight:55-65 pounds (25-29kg)

Living Area:Indoors or outdoors prefers room to move and explore. A larger yard is important.
Description

The Irish Setter is a long, lean looking dog that is very athletic and energetic looking without appearing hyperactive or rambunctious. The overall appearance of the breed is one of grace and agility as well as intelligence and excellent disposition. The head of the Irish Setter is rather long with a definite stop between the eyes and the muzzle. The muzzle is very straight and elongated in shape but not tapered or heavy looking. The nose is always wide and black, with wide and noticable openings on the nostrils. They eyes are well set and almond shaped, usually a chestnut or dark hazel color and they are soft and gentle in expression. The ears are very soft and triangular shaped but carried folded over and rather low on the side of the head. The skull is very rounded on top, giving a soft appearance to the head when viewed from the front or the side. The hair on the face is short and very soft, but feathering is noticeable on the ears. The neck is somewhat long and graceful looking, sloping into strong and well developed shoulders. The legs are well-boned and muscled but don't appear heavy or over-developed. There is noticeable fringing or furnishings on the front and back legs. The chest is rather narrow yet also deep, ideal for moving though brush or water. The body is longer than the height of the dog at the shoulders. The topline is sloping from the withers to the tail, which is usually carried either down when relaxed or horizontally when the dog is working, happy or moving about. Typically Irish Setters will be very active tail wagers, and their beautiful tail really is a highlight of the breed. The coat may be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the breeding and line. Overall field lines or working dogs will have a shorter coat and will be more energetic and athletic than the show lines which are heavier and have a the longer showier coat style. The longer coat is very silky and long with natural waves that add to the depth of the body of the dog. The shorter coat has the same fringes and furnishings as well as the beautiful sheen and wavy, distinctive coat. The hair around the neck, underbelly and chest is slightly longer than the rest of the hair on the body.
Coat Description

The coat is medium long, thick and flat and soft to the touch. The reddish brown coat can be wavy or straight but is never curly. The breed has distinctive furnishing on the legs, tail and underbelly that are more pronounced on the longer coated show lines. Field lines may have a much shorter coat but will always have the same coloration.
History

The Irish Setter was first developed as a color variation on the original Red and White Setter breed in the 1700's in Ireland and other areas in the United Kingdom. In the 1800's breeders started to select the more solid colored dogs in the Red and White Setter group to develop the all

red, solid Irish Setter we know today. Originally the Irish Setter was known as the Irish Red Setter, but this name is no longer used in registries. The Irish Setter, prior to 1862, was used strictly as a hunting dog. They have a unique tendency to run in a zigzag pattern in front of the hunter, scanning the area for scents. The Irish Setter was trained to be both a scent dog, a pointing dog and a retriever. This all round hunting combination was extremely popular especially with hunters than were hunting on their own or only had the ability to have one dog with them. In 1862 an Irish Red Setter was born that set the standards for the current breed. It was longer, more angular, faster and had a more distinctive face and coat than the other dogs in the breed at the time. This dog, named Champion Palmerston. Almost all Irish Setters can trace their lineage back to Champion Palmerston and his features are still evident in the breed standards used today. It is interesting to note that the original owner of Champion Palmerston did not like his looks and actually ordered the puppy to be killed, but it was given to another dog breeder that began showing the dog and started winning competitions.
Temperament

The temperament of the Irish Setter is gentle, kind and very even mannered. They are somewhat energetic dogs that need to have a place to run and romp as well as regular interaction with their family. The Irish Setter is a very people oriented dog and would prefer to be with then family rather than alone. They do not do well in kennels or small confined spaces although they will easily adjust to living indoors with lots of opportunity for regular walks and time outdoors. As puppies many Irish Setters are rather impulsive and clownish and love to play and spend time with people. They will almost housetrain themselves given the chance to get outside after meals and activity times. They are a very intelligent breed that does have natural tendencies to be somewhat independent. The Irish Setter is not a dominant breed nor is it dog aggressive unless provoked. They are ideal companion dogs for almost any type or breed of dog and have the energy to play all day if allowed. The Irish Setter will get along very well with other non-canine pets and is usually very fond of cats if properly socialized. Some Irish Setters are more prone to chasing so raising them as puppies with cats will help prevent this from becoming a problem. Irish Setters are ideal family dogs and love to spend time with children. They are excellent even with very small children and are often found simply walking around young kids out playing in the yard, staying active in what the kids are doing. When properly trained the will respond to even a very young child's command which makes them ideal dogs for families. The Irish Setter has unlimited patience with children and is not aggressive in any way towards family children or guests. The Irish Setter is not a guard or watch dog and will often greet total strangers with a happy expression and a wag of the tail. Often the Irish Setter will bark a greeting to family before they will bark to notify the family that people are arriving. The Irish Setter makes a great traveling, jogging, hiking or walking companion. They are

naturally energetic and athletic and are always interested in doing whatever the family is involved in.
Health Problems

The Irish Setter has the same Health Problems and genetic concerns that most of the large breeds of dogs have. These include canine hip dysplasia, Progressive Retinal Atrophy and Gastric torsion, a bloating problem that can be controlled by Feeding several small meals a day and limiting Exercise after meals. In addition some occasionally seen Health conditions include growth problems (OCD) in puppies, megaesophagus, Epilepsy, Hemophilia A and Hypertrophic osteodystrophy (HOD) which causes lameness in young dogs. Typically checking DNA of Breeding pairs will reduce the likeliness of any of these conditions. A reputable breeder will always perform these tests before breeding the dogs, and purchasing a puppy from an established breeder is the best way to avoid these conditions.
Grooming

The Irish Setter has a flat, thick and smooth coat that requires some daily care but not excessive care. The field lines that have the shorter coat require less care than the longer coats of the show lines. Both types of Irish Setters have natural oils in their coats that make them water-resistant and help the coat stay free from dirt and debris. Washing or bathing the Irish Setter breed should only be done when absolutely necessary to avoid stripping these oils from the coat. If the coat needs to be freshened up or deodorized a dry powder shampoo is a better option than a full bath, but even this should be used with limits and very infrequently. To groom the Irish Setter use a stiff bristle brush or pin brush in the direction of hair growth. In the longer coated lines be sure to push the hair backwards then brush back into position to remove even small tangles further up on the hair. The furnishings on the legs, ears and tail as well as the longer hair on the ruff and underbelly can be easily combed with a thick tooth metal comb. Most Irish Setters will not need any type of clipping or trimming, although some owners may clip the furnishings on the legs to prevent tangling. The ears should always be checked every grooming session for any signs of infection or irritation as the breed is prone to ear problems. The wax can easily build up in the tightly folded over ears and bacteria can cause infections. The Irish Setter may also have skin allergies so watch for any signs of licking, chewing or pulling of the hair on the body. These patches, known as "hot spots" can cause serious skin infections as well as hair loss in patches on the body, but early detection and treatment can minimize any damage that may occur.

Exercise

The Irish Setter is a highly active breed that requires additional exercise on a daily basis to avoid becoming highly distracted and unmanageable. They are an excellent breed for active families and individuals that enjoy spending time outdoors, regardless of the activity. Irish Setters are natural retrievers and will enjoy running to chase a ball or a stick for as long as the owner is willing to keep throwing. To keep this dog in excellent shape at least one long walk per day is required, especially with the option to run off leash and explore. Since they are a natural scent dog they may have a tendency to get on a trail and follow it, so training must be complete before taking the dog out off leash. In addition this breed enjoys getting into the water for a swim, which is also excellent exercise for the breed. One of the benefits of the Irish Setter breed is that with a large, fenced yard they will selfexercise very well. They do much better with a companion dog that is also fairly active and will engage in play and romps during the day. The Irish Setter is not recommended for apartment life or for very quiet families that are not active. This breed loves to be engaged with people in their exercise and really loves to rough house and play with kids. The Irish Setter does not do well in kennel or run unless for brief periods of time.
Training

The Irish Setter is a very intelligent and alert dog that has a high ability to problem solve and think independently. To train the Irish Setter the owner must work with the dog and enter into a partnership, not try to dominant or force the dog into participating in the training exercise. They love to please and will simply follow commands to please the trainer they have bonded with. Spending time and making this dog a part of the families life is key to obedience and training. While not a dominant dog the Irish Setter can be stubborn and somewhat independent at times. Typically they tend to be less complaint when they have not had the correct amount of exercise. Always start training sessions with a game, a long walk, or some time to run off leash to burn off excess energy. Once they have physically exercised this breed is ready for mental challenges. The Irish Setter does not need continuous repetitive instruction and will often learn commands within one or two training sessions. Never train an Irish Setter using harsh or negative methods. They need to feel part of the owner's life and always should be given lots of positive attention and interactions. Since they are a hunting breed they can be taught hand signals or to respond to whistle commands. Irish setters can be trained to compete in various events including agility, obedience, tracking, hunting and retrieving events. They are very self-assured dogs that are not worried about performing in front of people, nor are they shy or timid if properly socialized and trained.

Irish Water Spaniels

Aliases: IWS, Whiptail, Rat Tail Spaniel, Bog Dog, Shannon Tail
Life Span:10 to 12 years Litter Size: 4-12 puppies Group:The Irish Water Spaniel is part of the Spaniel family.

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, ACR Color:deep puce, dark brown or liver color Hair Length:Medium Size:Large Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:20-24 inches in height Male Weight:45-65 pounds Female Height:19-23 inches in height Female Weight:45-65 pounds Living Area:The Irish Water Spaniel is an active large dog that will need plenty of exercise and for this reason alone the best living conditions for this breed will at least require an average size back yard. The best living conditions for an Irish Water Spaniel would not only include a large fenced place to run and play but also somewhere near a clean and safe body of water for swimming. This is a breed that loves to be in the water and living near a body of water or having access to water would be a wonderful benefit for your Irish Water Spaniel. Because the dog's breed is prone to hunting a fenced or enclosed space to run in is the best as they will run off to chase anything that is moving and may trigger their retrieving instinct. The most common and best places for Irish Water Spaniels is in the country or in the suburbs where larger back yards are found, city life is a hard concept for this breed of dogs.
Description

Although the Irish Water Spaniel looks much like a standard Poodle it is not a part of the Poodle family but a part of the Spaniel family. The Irish Water Spaniel is both the largest and the rarest of the spaniel family. They are a puce, dark brown or liver color that has a purple shade to their

coats. The Irish Water Spaniel has medium-long curly hair that composes much of the dogs coat. The face and back of the legs of this dog are covered in short straight hair as well as their tail, which is where the alias of rat tail dog comes from. At the top of the head there is a top knot of long curls that covers the Irish Water Spaniels eyes and is there mainly to protect the eyes from the elements of life. The dogs ears are also covered in thick longer curls and adds to the handsome look of this rare breed, however special grooming attention is needed because of this. The Irish Water Spaniel is a solid and stout large dog breed with a large head and deep chest, the hind quarters sit high as well and their feet are webbed to help them with their favorite past time of swimming.
Coat Description

This is a breed with a coat that requires a great amount of grooming however, since the Irish Water Spaniels coat is composed of hair instead of fur it is also a great dog for allergy sufferers. Because the Irish Water Spaniel is covered in hair it needs regular trimming just as a person does. This is a breed that sheds very little hair and also has little dander to set off allergies with. The coat is made up of a long curly top coat and a warm thick undercoat that keeps the dog warm in cold conditions. The coat needs to be well maintained to keep the dog looking good and without uncomfortable matting. The Irish Water Spaniels coat consists of long curly hair on the top of the tail, neck and body. The hair on the face, back of the lower legs and most of the tail is shorter and smooth. This breed also has a top knot of longer curly hair, as well as on the ears and front of the legs. The Irish Water Spaniel is a deep puce, dark brown or liver color that is often accompanied with a purple shade. It is a very unique coloring and is one of the only dogs to have a purple shade to it's coat. The coat is a solid color in one of the puce, liver or dark brown shades.
History

The history of the Irish Water Spaniel is traced back to the mid 1800's when it was discovered as a hunting dog. The Irish Water Spaniel originated in Ireland and is believed to have been derived of ancestry with the Poodle and Irish Setter or other Spaniel breeds found in Northern and Southern Ireland. The Irish Water Spaniel is a breed that has always been prized as an excellent hunting dog with a firm but gentle mouth for retrieving animals for it's hunter, and is mostly used for hunting birds. The Irish Water Spaniel was the most popular hunting dog until the Labrador Retriever replaced it due to the easy grooming of it's short straight haired and water repellent coat. Most often the Irish Water Spaniel was bred as a retriever for water birds and other small hunted game and known for being a daring retriever in the coldest of waters.
Temperament

The Irish Water Spaniel is an active, intelligent, alert breed of dogs. It is also a very playful, inquisitive and responsive dog that has a good temperament as a pet, watch dog or hunting dog. Their gentle nature can be nurtured through good training to make them great with older children that know how to handle and treat a dog and around other family members. This breed should be

socialized as a puppy if it is intended for a family pet as this will make the family life more comfortable for the dog and the people. This is a breed that can seem aggressive around other dogs if not properly introduced and this is another reason for early socialization with the Irish Water Spaniel. The Irish Water Spaniel breed is often shy and timid around strangers making them great watch dogs and can be easily trained to alert you to any intruder in the home or on the property. They are not an aggressive dog and so they will remain low on the list as an actual guard dog. Other than to alert you to intruders the Irish Water Spaniel is a quite dog that does not bark incessantly and will remain that way from puppy to mature adult. When exercised regularly this breed of dog can be a great pet and companion but with out the right amount of exercise and training they can tend to be a bit hyper due to excess energy that must be burned off through proper exercise and activity. The Irish Water Spaniel is a breed of dogs that does drool and develops more saliva than other average dog breeds. They can also be disobedient with members of the family that have not established a dominant role and therefore can seem unruly at times, this is a dog that requires a strong leadership role. Although with the right training for both dog and owner this is easily corrected and the Irish Water Spaniel can become a great pet with little obedience problems. Irish Water Spaniels that are not socialized correctly can seem timid, shy or unsure of strangers and other dogs so it is important to socialize them as puppies if you intend to have the dog as a family pet or around other animals.
Health Problems

The Irish Water Spaniel has a few Health concerns that it's owner should be aware of and keep a keen eye out for. The most common of these would be Ear infections as this is common in many swimming dog breeds with longer ears and the Irish Water Spaniel is no exception. Ear infections often occur as a result of the water that does not drain from the ears properly and can pool inside causing an infection. Drying your Irish Water Spaniel's ears throughly after swims may help to prevent some Ear infections, but any sensitivity around the ears should immediately be checked by a veterinarian. Other Health Problems to be aware of with this breed is Hypothyroidism, seizures, eye Entropion which can all be inherited and you should inquire about any health concerns with the parents of your puppy before adopting or buying him or her. Because the Irish Water Spaniel is a larger breed of dog hip dysplasia is also a common health condition for the dog as it ages and can be uncomfortable for the dog, proper nutrition and health check ups can help to prevent some hip dysplasia.
Grooming

Because of the Irish Water Spaniels long locks of curls on much of the dog's body there is a good amount of grooming that is needed for this breed of dog. The average for grooming (with a steel dog brush) is once a week to prevent matting and keep the dog comfortable in certain warmer climates. The coat of the Irish Water Spaniel must be attended to regularly to prevent matting

and tangles as well as keep the dog looking it's best. Professional trimming is needed around the feet as well as stripping of bothersome hair on other areas of the dogs body. Special attention also needs to be paid to the hair behind the Irish Water Spaniel's ears to be sure it is not matted and painful for the dog, as this is quite common in this breed of dogs. The dogs coat also needs to be professionally trimmed to keep the two thick coats (both top coat and under coat) of hair in healthy condition as well as keeping the dog comfortable to exercise as well as in warmer climates.
Exercise

The Irish Water Spaniel is a high energy breed of dog that was originally and historically bred as a hunting dog and because of this simple fact exercise is an important and imperative part of the Irish Water Spaniels daily needs. This is a breed that loves to swim, take walks or run for exercise and will be very excited to accompany you on very long walks. Irish Water Dogs also enjoy retrieving many different items and can be trained to fetch or retrieve nearly anything you like. The Irish Water Spaniel will seem to have an endless amount of energy but with good exercise once daily your dog should remain healthy and fit. The amount of exercise you give to your Irish Water Spaniel will reflect in his behavior, by having less energy they will be less destructive to property and much more well behaved in your home. They are most often not off leash dogs as they will chase animals for exercise if given the chance.
Training

The Irish Water Spaniel needs a firm and dominant authority figure for training beginning at an early age of puppy hood. When trained early they will make great dogs for your family, hunting or watch dogs. They are highly intelligent and good problem solvers however obedience can be an issue without the proper authority. Professional training is recommended and the owner needs to be present to become the superior figure in the dogs mind, otherwise this is a breed that will often only listen to whom it recognizes as the most dominant figure in it's day to day life.

Irish Wolfhounds
Aliases: Sighthound
Life Span:Around 6-8 years Litter Size:3 to 4 puppies Group:Southern, AKC Hound Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The colors of the Irish Wolfhound may vary from grey, wheaten, brindle, red, black, pure white, brown, or fawn, although grey is the most common color.

Hair Length:Medium Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:33-36 inches (85-90 cm) Male Weight:90-120 pounds Female Height:31-32 inches (75-80 cm) Female Weight:105-150 pounds Living Area:The Irish Wolfhound is a dog that can be kept indoors or outdoors, but is best kept indoors with the family, although apartment life would not allow much room for this large dog. If they are kept indoors too much, they are inactive which isn't good for them. They thrive very well in a large yard where they can run free. Due to their desire to chase smaller animals they don't know, they should always be kept in a fenced yard. They do enjoy being indoors with their family members as much as they can.
Description

The Irish Wolfhound is a huge, muscular breed of dog that is bred to hunt. The Irish Wolfhound gets its name from its purpose, which was wolf hunting. This dog is one of the tallest breeds in the world. They are known for being like a huge gentle giant. They can reach the size of a small pony and when on their hind legs can reach 7 feet tall. They move a very swift pace and are known for having excellent eyesight. The Irish Wolfhound has a big arrow-shaped head with a long muscular arched neck and pointed muzzle. They have a body shaped similar to a greyhound only larger. The tail hangs down with a curve. They walk with a look of elegance and grace. The paws are round and big with arched toes and curved nails. The ears are laid back against the head unless they are excited in which case they hold them up part-way. They come in a variety of colors, although grey is the most common. The Irish Wolfhound is a friendly and loving dog towards everyone. They are rather clumsy and are slow to mature often not reaching adult size until they are at least 2 years old. They do grow fast and need good quality dog food so their bones can grow healthy as fast as the rest of them are growing. A very unfortunate fact about the Irish Wolfhound is that they don't have a real long life span like many other large dogs.
Coat Description

The Irish Wolfhound has a medium length rough shaggy coat that needs regular brushing. He is an average shedder.

History

The history of the Irish Wolfhound began as early as the 1st century when the Celtics bred these dogs as war dogs and to guard their homes and protect their livestock. There were some reports of them being used for dog fights although this is surprising considering how affectionate and loving they are. With their speed and intelligence, they were successfully used to hung wolves and wild boars. They then were exported to other countries for this purpose. Today they are sometimes referred as the national dog breed of Ireland, although nothing has been done officially. It was said that during wartime they were trained to take an armored knight off its horse. When they were only allowed to be owned by royalty (and banned by everyone else) in the 19th century, the breed became almost extinct. The Irish Wolfhound was then bred with the Deerhound, Great Dane and Borzoi, which brought the breed back, changed its initial appearance slightly. The dog was not always as big as it is today but became that way after it was bred with a Kerry Blue Terrier. They were not as mellow and affectionate as the modern day Irish Wolfhound. The motto of the breed is "Gentle when stroked. Fierce when provoked". Today they are one of the best-known Irish breed dogs. Everyone that owns an Irish Wolfhound loves them. The Irish Wolfhound club was started in 1885 and the Kennel Club recognized the Irish Wolfhound as a breed in 1925.
Temperament

The temperament of the Irish Wolfhound is loving, patient, generous, thoughtful and extremely intelligent. If they were a human, they would be everyone's best friend. They are wonderful with children and a most loyal member of the family. If you are looking for a watchdog, the Irish Wolfhound is not the dog. His size is about the only thing that may scare strangers. He is far too loving and friendly to be a watchdog. They are easy to train due to their intelligence, loyalty and desire to please. He will respond well to a firm and loving hand. Make sure you are consistent in any training you give you Irish Wolfhound so he will always be self confident and well adjusted in the home. The get along well with everyone in the family and will get along with other small animals if they grew up together. If not, he may try to chase them while in the yard, although it's usually not a problem. They are a friendly dog that wants to make friends with everyone they meet. Their love and loyalty for their family is unconditional. It is because of these qualities that the Irish Wolfhound is so easy to train. Very few dogs have the completely all loving temperament that these dogs possess.
Health Problems

The Irish Wolfhound is prone to cardiomyopathy, bone cancer. Bloat, PRA, von Willebrands and hip dysplasia. If you plan to breed your dog, it is recommended that you have their hips x-rayed first and check the pedigree of the parents to assure that they are certified OFA excellent or good.

Breeders and vets recommend against giving food supplements with their food as this may make them grow at an irregular and unhealthy pace. Make sure the dog doesn't over eat. They may be a large dog that looks like he needs a lot but they are prone to bloat, which could be fatal.
Grooming

The Irish Wolfhound has a medium-length rough shaggy coat that will require brushing and combing to keep the shedding to a minimum. As with all dogs that are kept indoors and outdoors, you will want to make sure they are clean. Your Irish Wolfhound will love being outside romping around when the weather is nice and he will get dirty. Always be sure to check him for ticks or other insects when he comes back in. Grooming should begin when your dog is a small pup so he gets used to having his body parts (feet, toenails, ears, mouth) handled on a regular basis. He will get so used to having his feet and ears touched and cleaned, that it will be something he comes to enjoy as an adult dog. Because his toenails are curved, you may wish to keep them clipped regularly to avoid snagging. Grooming your Irish Wolfhound also is important to all dogs for a couple reasons. One reason is to make him look good and it's a way to possibly alert you to any unusual health problems in or on the skin. Another reason is this is a time for you and your dog to bond-just the two of you. However, if you are not comfortable grooming such a large dog, you can take him to a dog groomer. About once or twice a year, his coat should be plucked to get rid of dead hair.

You may want to trim the ends of his hair from time to time, as they get very wiry. They get hair in their ears that you may want to remover or trim. Keeping the ears clean and dry is very important for dogs, especially dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors. The Irish Wolfhound does not need to be bathed very regularly, but his ears should be clean and dry. If you do bathe him, ask you pet supply store to recommend a good shampoo or conditioner for your breed of dog. Your vet or pet supply store can also recommend some wipes or cleaning supplies for your dog. Your dog will love this attention from you especially if it's ended with a treat.
Exercise

The Irish Wolfhound needs exercise and lots of room to run around. Because they are a large dog they will need more room to run and play, but they don't need any more exercise than a small dog would. They love going for walks with the family. When you are training them on a leash as a pup, do not let them get away with pulling, as this could become a problem when they are full grown and harder to handle. They cannot be left in the house all the time, but do not force them to get any more exercise than they feel they need as a puppy as this could affect their growth and development. Because they are such a big dog, many owners treat them as adults by the time they are 8 months old and this does them more harm then good. They are still puppies and puppies love exercise and will let you know when they want to run and play.

Training

Training for the Irish Wolfhound must begin when they are a puppy and before they are too large to handle. One of the first things they need to be taught is how to walk on a leash. It's extremely important that they not be allowed to pull. Remember, the size they will be as adults. If they pull as a puppy, they will continue to pull as an adult. Because of their loving affectionate nature, try to always use a loving and positive approach when training, as they will respond much better. When trainers say to use a firm hand, they don't mean harsh and physical, just firm so they know what is expected of them. He will be very quick to catch on to what you want of him. They need to be given plenty of selfconfidence so they grow up to be proud and friendly dogs, not shy or aggressive. It's also important that your Irish Wolfhound be properly socialized around other people and children so he comes to know that they are friends and not something to fear. They do have minds of their won and need to be shown from you what is acceptable and what is not. As with exercise, there should not be too much training at one time when they are still growing so as to not over stress and damage their young bones, joints and ligaments. When you look at this big puppy, you will have a hard time remembering they are still a puppy, but they cannot be pushed too hard. Also, do not exercise for an hour before or for two hours after eating to avoid the Irish Wolfhound getting bloat, a condition that is quite common for the breed. If you plan to show your Irish Wolfhound in the ring, you will need to train him all his basic commands such as sit, stay, come, down, in addition to teaching him to walk on the lead in his correct position. When you start off with him still as a puppy, just do a little exercise at a time. They love doing things with you and love pleasing you, so try to make this into a pleasant experience. You may also want to consider taking him to a professional trainer. It is important that you participate along with the trainer so he knows he must respond to you as well as the trainer.

Italian Greyhounds
Aliases: Piccolo Levrierio Italiano, IG, Iggy, I.G.
Life Span:12 - 15 years Litter Size:4 - 8 puppies, average 6 puppies Group:Southern, AKC Toy Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Solid Gray, Slate Gray, Cream, Red, Fawn, Black, Blue, Speckled, White Markings, Flecked

Hair Length:Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:12-15 inches (30-38 cm.) Male Weight:6-10 pounds (3-5 kg.) Female Height:12-15 inches (30-38 cm.) Female Weight:6-10 pounds (3-5 kg.) Living Area:The Italian Greyhound makes an excellent apartment dweller but does need plenty of activity and space for freedom of movement. They enjoy a good walk, and will bond especially well with their owners after exercise. These dogs enjoy playing with other Italian Greyhounds and can get quite rough; they should not necessarily play with larger dogs since they can hurt themselves without realizing it. They enjoy rolling in the grass and tumbling in the sand; they are very sensitive to cold temperatures and will need to wear warm clothing such as a sweater, in colder weather. These dogs do not need to be chained up all day.
Description

The Italian Greyhound is very similar to a fine-boned Greyhound but with some distinct qualities that differentiate from the latter breed. The Italian Greyhound has a thin coat and long head with a thinning, gradually pointed muzzle. These dogs have fine narrow ears that fold back on the head, but they will rise to a perpendicular state when the dog is alert, anxious, or excited. The abdomen is usually tucked in and the back is arched; the dog has a dark nose and thin lips with a generally healthy scissors bite. The eyes on the Italian Greyhound are dark and expressive; the tail is straight and ends in a slight curve. The coat is easy to manage and is solid gray, slate, cream, black, or blue; white markings usually accompany the main colors and flecked versions are common throughout many countries. The Italian Greyhound is famous for its skipping, high-stepping gait. It is the smallest of sight hounds and weighs only between 7-11 lbs. The dog tends to stand tall but has withered shoulders that make it almost petite. They are in the "toy" group of dogs because they do not occupy much physical space. Owners may have difficulty finding the appropriate clothing for this dog given its height and weight proportions. The chest is deep and the legs are long and slender. Long legs make this dog a natural sprinter, racer, and runner. They are miniature Greyhounds for the most part, and also will display the elegant trot of a horse. Top speeds can run up to 25 mph, and they are a result of multiple breeding throughout Europe, Austria, and Germany.

The dogs are well-balanced and make excellent companion dogs. They are exceptionally vigilant and are a postiive influence for children and pet owners alike.
Coat Description

The Italian Greyhound has a short coat with a soft, natural texture. The undercoat does not offer them much protection during harsh weather, but it is easy to maintain with a simple wipe down. The most common colors are grey, slate, black, and dark blue.
History

The Italian Greynound is one of the oldest Greyhound lines and a similar dog has been found in the Egyptian tombs of over 6000 years ago. This breed was brought to Europe by the Phoenicians and was later developed and trained by the Romans. The Greyhound was found in the ancient artifacts of Pompeii, Italy and has since become a popular dog throughout the royal families in Europe. These dogs quickly became popular companion dogs but have also been used for hunting purposes. The Italian Greyhound has often appeared in old paintings and artifacts, and has historically been favored by Catherine the Great of Russia, Anne of Denmark, and Queen Victoria among others. The name of the breed is actually a reference to the breed's popularity during the Renaissance period in Italy. The Italian Greyhound has been known to be a companion at war; Frederick the Great of Prussia reportedly took his Italian Greyhound with him during the battle period in Europe because he liked it so much! His dying wish was to be buried with his Italian Greyhound in Sands Souci Palace. These graceful dogs have also been a part of the nineteenth century African cattle exchanges; they were at one time exchanged for 200 cattle during the trading periods. These dogs are the smallest of the family of gazehounds and most likely originated from Greece or Turkey. They have often been depicted in the natural arts and distributed throughout Southern Europe when miniature dogs were in high demand.
Temperament

The Italian Greyhound is naturally gentle and submissive by nature, but also very affectionate. They are reserved and will listen to their masters; they rarely exhibit destructive behavior except when they are bored, abused, or distressed. Playful and intelligent, these dogs make wonderful companions for families. They can be particularly observant, vigilant, and perceptive. They are not difficult to train and are best trained at an early age. It is important to not be too firm with these dogs since they tend to take directions and tone very seriously. Learning how to overcome their shy and timid nature will help provide the proper handling. The Italian Greyhound can also be very high strung and timid; they do need to be handled gently and are well suited for a household that does not have lively children or pets with a lot of energy. These dogs will sense the owner's state of mind and personality fairly easily; they will adapt best to calm and natural settings, and they may even need reassurance by stroking during a stressful

situation. They are naturally independent but also are dependent on their owners and caretakers for peace. These dogs tend to become snappish if they are frightened, anxious, or disconcerted. They may be difficult to housebreak since they can become so anxious easily. The Italian Greyhound is a natural runner and will run at very high speeds when needed. They are highly active, and can climb wire fencing, jump from tabletops, and even jump over small walls in the backyard. They do not do well with larger dogs as they can become very protective and hurt themselves very easily. In general, these dogs are not easy to get along with; although they may show affection to their owners and become companions easily, they do have moments where their patience is tested and can become quite self-centered. These dogs do, however, get along with other Italian Greyhounds and will do well as a pair in the family. The dogs are fine breed but can be fairly destructive if they are not well trained. Sleek and short, they can get into a lot of trouble with ease! They have a natural propensity for gentleness and do well with children and even infants. However, they are also quickly agitated and may overreact if they are in a stressful situation. Still, these dogs are reasonably good watch dogs and will bark at unfamiliar sounds. They do nto get along with cats or other small dogs and may even scare other animals away with their harsh bark. They are very reliable and will rarely run far from home. A natural gazehound, these dogs instinctively hunt by sight and they also exhibit characteristics of being strong with a prey drive. It can be difficult to housebreak these dogs since they have small bladders; however, with the appropriate amount of attention, patience, and consistency the smallest challenges can be overcome.
Health Problems

Even though these dogs look quite fragile and delicate, they are much hardier than they seem. Until about 18 months of age, the bones of the Italian Greyhound are especially fragile and they may break a leg or their tails very easily. However, they are much stronger after 18 months of age. A few special conditions to be aware of include: Slipped stifle: they have a proneness to stress fractures and slipped vertebrae. Fractures: again, these dogs are likely to break their fragile bones. Hip Dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness.
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)

 Epilepsy: a neurological seizure disorder. There is no test for this.

Anesthetics: Since The Italian Greyhound has such low body fat they may be more sensitive to barbiturate-based Anesthetics. Grooming

Since the Italian Greyhound has such a short coat and silky coat, it is very easy to maintain their luster and shine. The Italian Greyhound is one of the easiest dogs to take care of and groom, and will only need to be bathed when it has been playing in dirt. To keep the coat silky and clean, all that is needed is a piece of toweling rubbed against their skin. Making sure the dogs are dry and warm will make bathing much easier since they are so sensitive to cold and heat changes. The teeth will need to be brushed on a regular basis to prevent tartar buildup, and this can be completed by a professional or Vet. The toenails need to be kept trimmed so the dog does not acquire health problems. The Italian Greyhound rarely sheds hair and will require little maintenance or attention to this area.Bathing and dry shampooing only when necessary is a good idea since these dogs do not enjoy a lot of temperature shifts and changes. These dogs need to be checked for fleas, ticks, and other health conditions on a regular basis. The ears also need to be checked on a regular basis so that they stay clear of disease and other health concerns.
Exercise

Since the Italian Greyhound is a natural runner with plenty of energy, they will need to be outside at least once per day. These dogs thoroughly enjoy jogging and running with their owners, and will make good companions for short distances. However, they are much better walking companions; they do need to be supervised when playing with other dogs since they can get injured very easily. They need to prevent accidents from occurring by staying protected whenever possible. Tehse dogs also fare well with playing "fetch" and finding hidden items. They do enjoy hunting by nature, and can look forward to a game of hide and seek with owners. They are intense and have a strong stamina, but they will not play well in cold weather unless they are kept warm and well protected. These dogs are intelligent and will learn new skills fairly easily. Taking them to the park or dog playground will provide them with enough stimulation to keep them happy, motivated, and healthy.
Training

The Italian Greyhound is a very quick learner and trains well during its puppy stages. A puppy that is left without support or security will have temperament problems and will have constant fears to manage during later years. Puppies left without their mothers or siblings for extended periods of time will have difficulty socializing, and need this attention during their formative

years to become better socialized in the long term. They may exhibit behaviors such as hand biting, nipping, and excessive barking; however, with the appropriate amount of training, these behaviors can be overcome. Housetraining is much easier during the period of 10-12 weeks; they cannot be expected to have control over their body functions until they are at least 10 weeks old, and waiting until they are too old can be a problem. Italian Greyhounds are extremely bright and paper training or litter box training will be the ideal choice. They are not good all weather dogs and making sure training takes place indoors will be your best option. These dogs require attention and positive motivation. They may need frequent stroking or caressing if they are uneasy, and they do well with crate training during the housebreaking stages. It's important to keep a firm grip on these puppies but also keep a gentle hand. Holding the puppies by wrapping them tight can help them stay safe and secure, and setting them on the floor requires that they have all four feet on the floor before letting go. The dog needs to be trained on how and when to climb furniture, and they should not be left unsupervised on a bed or couch whenever possible. It's important not to let the dog go unleashed in an unsecured area; they may have selective deafness where no amount of calling will let you be heard. These dogs need to be monitored on a regular basis as they can be easily distracted. Still, the dogs travel extremely well but do need to be crated for long car rides. They do have a tendency to leap out of cars or vehicles if they are not properly restrained. These dogs take direction and instruction well, and will be especially obedient after only a short period of time.

Jack Russell Terriers

Aliases: Russell Terrier
Life Span:15 or more years Litter Size:4 - 8 puppies, average 6 puppies Group:Terrier

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black, Tan, Brown/Tan, Black/Brown, Tan/Red, White/Tan

Hair Length:Medium

Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height: 10-12 inches (25-31 cm.) Male Weight:14-18 pounds (6-8 kg.) Female Height: 10 - 12 inches (25 - 31 cm.) Female Weight:14-18 pounds (6-8 kg.) Living Area:The Jack Russell Terrier is suited for apartments only when they receive an adequate amount of exercise. They do not do well by being chained up all day as they need the freedom to explore and move about. These dogs are not well-suited for kennels for extended periods of time, although they do enjoy the outdoors. They are very active indoors, and it is important to keep valuables and fragile objects out of their living space whenever possible. Although they may not be directly destructive, they do have a tendency to be hyperactive and can cause damage to fragile goods and objects as a result. These dogs should be accompanied by a person during the day and can be crate trained. However, they will need some exercise throughout the day as well as plenty of affection! These dogs thoroughly enjoy interaction with their owners, and can develop strong bonds as a result. They will enjoy new environments to explore, and will fare well with a small yard or fenced in space of their own.
Description

The Jack Russell Terrier is a small, miniature-sized version of a working Fox Terrier, and is often confused for this breed. However, it has distinct qualities and fun-loving, merry personality. The dog is usually white with reddish black and brown markings, and can often have many large tan patches. The skull is flat between the ears, and these usually flow to a tapering point. The stop is well-defined, and the dog has almond shaped eyes with a black nose. Eyes are usually dark brown or near-black, and the dog has one of the most "pitiful puppy" dog looks! The Jack Russell Terrier has a very flexible body and is incredibly agile. It has a medium to small chest and this helps them run and chase after prey that are close to the ground. Highly active and usually always on the run, these dogs are athletic with plenty of energy. The docked tail is carried high and they carry themselves with a lot of energy and a strong attitude. The dogs come in smooth and wire-haired versions, although the broken coat can also be quite rough. The slightly fuzzy face and smooth head are natural qualities of this dog and the Irish types often have shorter legs than English types. The dog is usually more white than other colors, and has its origins in fox hunting. The Jack Russell Terrier is often simply called the "Jack Russell" and has been used to describe many different types of small terriers of similar stature. These dogs tend to get very excited, and are

wonderful with children. These dogs have been raised to be working terriers, and have a strong expression and distinct appearance. The red fox is the most common prey for these dogs, and they are commonly found hunting down red foxes and old badgers in dens and quarries. The Jack Russell Terrier is small enough to burrow into quarries and dens, and will gladly pursue a variety of small animals. These dogs jump at the chance to explore new territory, and it is not uncommon to find them "stuck" in a den or hole after a relentless search for their next find! These dogs also have crooked or "benched" legs and this can be a sign of Achondroplasia. Still, they are built strong and muscular and they have a strong drive to work and stay active despite any physical limitations. These dogs are well-proportioned in relation to height and have an attractive appearance overall. Training these dogs requires patience, diligence, and persistence. Since these dogs naturally have a high energy level, it can be difficult to keep up! Still, the discipline instilled at an early age will help to manage them in later years and they are more likely to bond with owners as a result.
Coat Description

The Jack Russell Terrier has a white coat with black, tan, and brown markings and often has reddish tones. The coat is moderately long and not dense, but medium textured and soft.
History

The first appearance of the Jack Russell Terrier seems to have been in the Oxford area of England, a place where small white fox-working terriers were first bred by Reverend John Russell. The line of terriers bred by John Russell were especially strong and attractive; these dogs were raised to be aggressive and to hunt foxes. However, it is unlikely that the Jack Russell Terriers existing today are direct descendents of this dog. These feisty terriers were used to hunt small game and were trained very well in digging quarries out of dens. These dogs have a superb working ability and their standard is broad in range. The typical accepted body type is muscular and well-proportioned. The dogs were supposedly long-legged at some point, and had an innate ability to keep with hounds and hunting in packs. These dogs are naturally energetic, playful, and have strong stamina. They make excellent family companions and can pick up skills and tricks with ease. These dogs can be easily trained to hunt, track, and perform a variety of tricks. They are also very agile and can expertly dig into burrows and dens.
Temperament

The Jack Russell Terrier is happy, devoted, loving, and very perky. It will rise up early in the morning and play about at its leisure, but most enjoys its time with a job to do. These dogs are amusing and entertaining, and will be eager to play with new toys, games, and people. They are friendly and kind towards children and strangers and will happily introduce themselves to new people. These dogs are very determined and independent as well; it is important to remember this when they are during their training stages as they can be difficult to manage at times. Still,

diligence and perseverance with these dogs will pay off. The Jack Russell Terrier may be aggressive with other dogs, especially during its early years of socialization. This is why it is especially important for these dogs to learn from early socialization and they must be introduced to different dogs and animals whenever possible. These dogs do have natural hunting abilities and a strong instinctive quality. They are stronger than the average terrier and should generally not be trusted with smaller animals. They are driven to hunt, so it is important to keep them on a tight leash in new territory. Unless they are very well-trained, these dogs can be difficult to manage off the leash and may run off far from home. These dogs can become destructive if they are restless or bored, and it is important that they have plenty of activities to enjoy when they do not have access to formal exercise. Regular activity will keep them from becoming occupied in harmful actions and activities overall. The Jack Russell Terrier is a natural climber and can jump and climb over fences relatively easily. These dogs do get excited very easily and are strong-willed; they will do their best to achieve a goal and will run after new things easily. Making sure they are well-trained well before they have a chance to do so is in the owner's best interest. These dogs are very loving and affectionate, and will need constant attention. They will turn to excessive barking and other unmanageable behavior if they are not getting the attention they need, and may even resort to digging and destroying objects in the home. It is important to vary their activities and make sure they are actively engaged with the family on a regular basis. These dogs do have a tendency to be "cat-aggressive" and will not get along well with other small animals in the home. They often get involved in fights with rabbits and other small fur-bearing animals so it is important that they are kept far from the cages of any household pets as often as possible. These dogs are inquisitive and curious, and due to their small sizes, can find themselves in a lot of trouble very easily! It is important to remember that these dogs do not enjoy being "lap dogs" and would rather play about freely. They are not comfortable sitting in one place for extended periods of time, and will need to be taken to new environments and settings on a regular basis.
Health Problems

The Jack Russell Terrier is a hardy breed and is quite healthy overall. However, there are some special medical conditions to pay attention to: Hip Dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness. Collie Eye Anomaly: can cause blindness, but is not a progressive disease. Legg Perthes disease: a disease of the hip joints of small breeds of dogs. Deafness: Congenital Deafness can be a problem.

Grooming

The Jack Russell Terrier is very easy to groom, and will need to be combed or brushed about once per week. A firm bristle brush is all that is necessary to maintain their clean and healthy coat. For owners who use the Jack Russell Terrier as a showdog, professional services and grooming will b necessary. The Jack Russell Terrier's coat does not tangle easily, and has a soft and natural feel to it. The coat will need to be brushed out on a regular basis, and it is important to use a softer brush on the undercoat. In much the same way as rougher coats, the dog may need to be stripped completely during various seasons. Bathing and shampooing is only necessary when the dog has become extremely dirty. These dogs do spend a lot of time outdoors so taking them to the vet during tick season is recommended. The toes may need to be clipped on a regular basis, and these dogs are comfortable with grooming at the dog parlor or other professional services.
Exercise

The Jack Russell Terrier is very adaptable to different environments, but does require a lot of exercise on a regular basis. Owners can expect to become athletic and build endurance themselves; these dogs enjoy running, walking, and jogging outdoors as well as playing standard games such as fetch or with a ball. Since they are constantly active indoors as well, these dogs need plenty of stimulating toys and activities during "rainy days." They tend to become destructive and irritable if they are bored, and it is important that they are given the freedom to run and play about if they are inside for extended periods of time. The ideal workout for these dogs is about two long walks or light jogs per day. These dogs are naturally early risers and will expect to get exercise immediately after waking. They need open spaces to run, hunt, play, and explore; taking them to a dog park or other open field for a day is perfect for fulfilling their exercise needs. These dogs are quick learners and highly intelligent. Although they may run off from their owners, they can return quickly after careful training. It is important to keep them on a leash until they are well-trained so that they do not get lost. These dogs have superb stamina and endurance, and older owners may have difficulty keeping up. Naturally hyper and overactive, these dogs are relentless when finding physical activities to participate in!
Training

The Jack Russell Terrier is a smart and intelligent breed of dog, and can learn new tricks and skills very quickly. They respond well to basic training but they may be difficult for the average person to train. These dogs require patience and consistent training; they are sensitive to tone and command and they are especially receptive to affection and attention. When training the Jack Russell Terrier, it is important to remember that they have a tendency to

be hyperactive to the point of becoming unmanageable. These dogs require consistency throughout their formative years, and they do not perform well with harsh correction or criticism. In fact, these dogs will simply freeze or become upset. It is important to keep training to 2-3 sessions per day, and keep them brief and short. These dogs are sensitive to sound and movement, and will not respond well when they are overly anxious. The Jack Russell Terrier loves to learn new things, and will adapt well to a variety of settings and environments. It is important to combine training with play for these dogs as they will respond well when they are interacting positively with a variety of activities.

Japanese Chins
Aliases: Japanese Spaniel, Chin
Life Span:10-12 years, up to 15 years. Litter Size:1 to 3 pups. Group:Toy Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black and white, red and white, or black and white with tan points.

Hair Length:Medium Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:7 inches-11 inches Male Weight:4 pounds-15 pounds Female Height:7 inches-11 inches Female Weight:4 pounds-15 pounds Living Area:The Japanese Chin is very good for apartment living. Its quiet and well behaved manners make this one of the best choices for apartment dwellers. Owners should be aware that even though the breed is gentle and charming it is perhaps best suited to homes in which there are no small children. If there are small children in the home they should be instructed to be gentle with the dog.

This breed is not a barker but they will bark when alerted to strangers. For this reason they can make good watchdogs. This is one breed that will do well without a back yard to play. They can live happily indoors and they can find enough activity to stay fit.
Description

The Japanese Chin is a small, even dainty, little spaniel. It has a short, broad face, and a soft, feathered coat. In the healthy Chin a thick ruff covers the neck and chest. The forehead of the Japanese Chin is round, with a well-defined stop. The nose of the Chin is wide and the nostrils open. Owners should know that those animals that are black and white in coat color should have a black nose. For those animals that are other colors, the nose should match the color of the coat markings. One of the most endearing characteristics is the expressive, protruding eyes. The eyes should be dark and almond-shaped. The eyes of the animal should be clear and alert. The combination of all the head traits is what gives the breed its Oriental expression. A small amount of white in the inner corners of the eyes is a breed characteristic that gives the dog a look of astonishment. In the Japanese Chin the teeth form either a level or an undershot bite. For the healthy Chin, the ears are upside-down, V-shaped and are covered with hair. When alert, the ears are carried forward and downward. The ears are well feathered and fit into the rounded contour of the head. Generally, the body of the Chin is about the same length as it is high. The front legs are straight and fine-boned. The coat comes in white with colored patches, which are most often black. Sometimes these patches will be red, lemon, orange, sable or brindle. The tail of this remarkable breed is feathered or plumed and it will curl up over the back of the animal. The Japanese Chin has an elegant high-stepping gait that is unmistakable. The movements of this breed will be light and stylish to the point of being a show off.
Coat Description

The coat of the healthy Japanese Chin is plentiful and straight. The hairs are single formed and they are silky to the touch. When properly brushed the coat has a tendency to stand out from the body, especially on the neck, shoulders, and chest, where the hair forms a thick mane or ruff. The Japanese Chin can be of several color variants. These include black and white, red and white, or black and white with tan points. The term "tan points" means tan or red spots over each eye, inside the ears, or on both cheeks.

The color variations of this breed make it one of the most unique and colorful of the toy breeds. For show purposes there are special requirements that the dog must meet. You can learn more about these special show requirements by visiting any of the websites that are currently devoted to this breed.
History

The Japanese Chin has a long history that is often clouded in mystery. For example, there is some debate as to the origins of this breed. Some researchers suggest that the ancestors of these dogs first appeared in Japan around the year 732 AD, and were given as gifts from the rulers of Korea to the Japanese royal family. On the other hand, other researchers attribute the ancestors of the Chin to breeds that were of Chinese origin. It has been suggested that Portuguese sailors introduced the breed to Europe in the 1600's. The story is that they gave the breed to Catherine of Braganza, Queen Consort to King Charles II of England. It was two hundred years later when an American naval officer, Commodore Perry, helped to make this dog famous in England. In 1853, after he returned from Japan, he presented a breeding pair to Queen Victoria. He had another honor bestowed to him as well as this was considered the first canine gift given to the royal family. Commodore Perry is also credited with bringing the breed to America when he gave another pair to the President of the United States.
Temperament

The Japanese Chin is a happy and lively breed. The breed is intelligent and can be affectionate with those that it knows and trusts. When properly taken care of it is extremely devoted to its owner. While this breed often loves everyone it is familiar with, it is also known to be somewhat aloof with strangers. It can also be somewhat reserved when it is in unfamiliar situations or locations. For the most part, the Chin is good with other dogs and pets that may live in the home with it. Even though the Japanese Chin is a loving and kind breed, it does have a mind of its own and likes to be the center of attention. When this attention is not given to it, it can become jealous and brooding. The Japanese Chin is considered to be more obedient than most other toy breeds and good dogs for learning tricks.

Health Problems

The Japanese Chin will have many of the same problems that all short-faced breeds will have. The Japanese Chin tends to wheeze and snore. Generally speaking, this is normal and should not cause alarm. If it progresses, however, it should be taken to the vet for exam. The Japanese Chin may be prone to luxating patella which is also known as slipping kneecaps. This ailment can usually be caught early on during Routine exams. The Chin are also prone to Cataracts in the eyes. This is one reason it is important to have its eyes checked during every exam. The Chin is also prone to eye and respiratory problems and heat prostration if it is left in hot areas such as inside the car during the summer months. Some Chin lines can be prone to distemper. Your veterinarian may choose to adjust the immunization schedule if this is a issue with your animal. Owners of the Chin should be aware of the incidence of endocardiosis that affects this breed. It is estimated that 35% of all dogs over the age of 12, and about 5% of dogs in middle age may encounter this ailment. The Japanese Chin are particularly at risk for increasing prevalence of early-onset endocardiosis if careful Breeding practices are not followed. You can ask about this before purchasing your animal. It is also advisable to have your vet check for this during routine exams. The Japanese Chin is very sensitive to oral examination and this can present a problem during oral hygiene.
Grooming

The Chin is an easy breed to care for and it only takes a few minutes each day to keep the coat looking wonderful. The owner should comb out tangles that occur in the coat. The coat is a single layer, silky and straight and is not prone to matting. This breed is an average shedder. There is a preferred way to brush this breed and any professional dog salon can show you the correct technique. The idea is that the hair should be brushed with a lifting motion so that it stands up in a soft plume. You should clean the eyes every day and check the ears regularly for any signs of possible infection. Special care should be taken when cleaning your pet's ears. For general cleaning, you can use baby oil and a cotton ball. Take special care to not go too far into the ear as you could damage the ear drum. It is best to gently wipe around the outer ear and remove any debris that you may find. In the event that you should notice your dog is scratching its ears more often than usual or

shaking its head vigorously, you should take the dog to the vet as this may be an indication of ear infection. Owners should use dry shampoo occasionally and bathe the animal only when necessary. In addition to shampoo, a cream rinse will provide extra luster and softness. The extra conditioning will also prevent tangles, making your Chin easy to comb. Chin may also be blow dried on a cool setting. While the Chin is shedding it is a good idea to brush them more frequently. The teeth need to be kept clean as well but it should be noted that the Chin does not always like having its teeth examined or touched. If the owner is not able to perform this grooming task, a pet salon should be used. Proper dental care is extremely important as it helps your pet to keep its teeth for as long as possible. You should also trim your pet's nails once a week or so to prevent overgrowth. This is very easy to do. You will need a pair of animal nail clippers that can be found in most pet stores. Only trim the top portion of the nail and do not over cut into the nail. The hair between the pads of the feet should be trimmed when it becomes long. Baths should be given only when needed. New dog owners can take a class on how to properly perform these tasks at most pet grooming salons. The tools and brushes needed for grooming the Japanese Chin are readily available and affordable at most pet stores.
Exercise

The Japanese Chin is a low level breed for exercise. This means that the dog does not require a lot of exercise. It enjoys a walk, but care must be taken when walking the dog as other animals may attempt to attack it. The Chin can enjoy playtime within the home or apartment and that can suffice for its exercise. This can be very helpful for older owners who may not be able to participate in strenuous activities. The Chin is well suited to learning tricks and this, too, can suffice as exercise.
Training

As mentioned above, the Japanese Chin is very intelligent and willing to please its owner. These attributes make training the Chin easier than other toy breeds. Even so, the Chin can be stubborn and willful at times. The best time to begin training is early on in life. Even at an early age they are capable of learning the basics of obedience and they can begin housebreaking as well. They are a clean

breed so house breaking them is usually not a problem. If at all possible early socialization is best. This is especially important if there are small children in the home with the dog. While the Japanese Chin will get along with other animals that live in the house, it is best to also begin socialization training for that as early as possible as well. The Chin is not an aggressive breed and will usually get along fine with other animals once it has had a chance to be around them in a safe environment. This breed is quickly becoming known for its excellent learning ability in the agility events. Even those owners who do not plan to place the animal in a show event will find that the Chin is very capable of doing simple exercises such as jumping over lines or going under lines. Agility training is best begun when the dog is at least two years old. Beginning to train it any earlier than that and it may not be as receptive to the training.

Keeshonds
Aliases: Dutch Barge Dog, Smiling Dutchman, Chien Loup, German Spitz, Wolfsspitz, Deutscher Wolfsspitz, Kees

Life Span:12 and 15 years Litter Size:3 and 8 puppies Group:Spitz, Non-sporting

Recognized By:CKC, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:mix of grey, black, or cream Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:17-19 inches Male Weight:55-66 pounds Female Height:15 - 17 inches

Female Weight:55-66 pounds Living Area:The Keeshond will do best in an environment where it has at least a small fenced yard to run, spin, and play in. They are relatively small dogs and will do well in small indoor spaces. It is necessary to note that due to the breed's thick coat they do not do well in hot weather. They are best in cooler climates. It can be a rather active indoor dog and therefore should receive about an hour of outdoor activity a day. Due to their separation anxiety they are not good dogs to be left outdoors alone or they will bark excessively. They are also not good to be left alone at home for long periods of time. This makes them not an ideal pet for an individual or family who spends a lot of time away from home.
Description

The Keeshond is a very small and compact dog that bears a strong resemblance to their ancestor the Samoyed. This is demonstrated in their oblique chestnut eyes, erect triangular ears, and its medium length tail that rolls over onto its back. They attract attention because of their intelligent and alert expression combined with their unique coloration and luxurious coat. The head should be well proportioned to the body and wedge shaped. The muzzle should be of medium length and never coarse. The neck should be moderately long and well shaped. The neck should sit well on the shoulders. The body should be compact with a short sloping back. The Keeshond exhibits a deep and strong chest that is well ribbed. The forelegs should be straight when viewed from any angle and the hindquarters should exhibit slight to moderate angulation to compliment the forequarters. The feet are well rounded and are said to be "cat like." The toes are nicely arched with black nails. The tail is set high, moderately long, and well feathered. The tail should be tightly curled over the back. The Keeshond has a very distinctive gait. The dog should keep the tail always curled tightly over the back and move boldly. The movement is straight and sharp. The reach and drive is slight to moderate. The movements should be clean and brisk. The Keeshond is known for its "spinning." They will spin around in circles when excited.
Coat Description

The Keeshond has a profuse double coat. They have a very thick ruff around the neck. Typically the males of this breed will have a thicker more pronounced ruff than the females. The coat has a very soft look, which is demonstrated in its well plumed tail and the feathering on the fore and hind legs. The coat should not be wavy, silky, or long enough that a part is shown down the back. The color of the Keeshond is very distinctive and is known for its wolf like appearance. The color is a mix of grey, black, or cream. The colors can range from quite light to quite dark. It should never be completely black or white and the ruff and trousers of the hind legs should always appear to be distinctively lighter grey, white, or cream. The Keeshond should never appear to be tawny. The tail should be either white or cream with a black tip. The ears and the muzzle should be black but some dogs develop a white ring around the nose or front of the

muzzle, which is referred to as "milk mouth." It is also important that the Keeshond has proper spectacles. These are markings that extend from the outer corner of each eye towards the inner corner of each ear. The spectacles should be a very delicate but dark line. All markings should be clear and not muddled.
History

The Keeshond origin can be found in the Arctic or Netherlands. During the eighteenth century the Keeshond was known as "a dog of the people." The Keeshond was bred from the Samoyed, Chow Chow, Elkhound, and Pomeranian. At the beginning of the French Revolution it became a symbol for the common and middle-class Dutchmen. They were led by the Patriot Kees de Gyselaer. Afterwards the breed endured and suffered a long period of neglect. It was introduced to the United Kingdom by a woman named Mrs. Wingfield-Digby. However, the Keeshond did not become popular again until it was introduced into the United States in the 1920's. They are part of the Spitz family and therefore were originally bred to guard canal boats. It was because of this that it was named the Dutch Barge Dog. However, rather unkindly, in Victorian England the Keeshond was nicknamed the Overweight Pomeranian. Although it is known to have originated in the Netherlands it has been cited as being part of the German Spitz Family along with the Pomeranian and the American Eskimo dog.
Temperament

The Keeshond is a very lively, active, and intelligent dog. Keeshonds are full of personality and become very excited about certain things. If they become excited they are known to spin around and around in happy circles. They are highly affectionate, friendly, and outgoing. The Keeshond is an incredible family dog. They love to be involved with the family and family activities. They are excellent with children. This makes them the perfect dog for a family with children or a family who intends on having children. In fact, they are more affectionate and playful with children than with adults. They are also very well behaved and tolerant of other family pets and animals. They make fantastic watch dogs because of their keen sense of hearing. They will bark to signal the approach of unknown people or other events. This makes them an excellent watch dog. They also have a strong devotion and loyalty to the family and this will add to their nature as a watchdog. However, occasionally the Keeshond can be very timid and reserved. If they are shy and timid as puppies they should be socialized extensively throughout puppyhood so they can become more confident and outgoing around other people and animals. If proper socialization has not taken place their natural sense of caution can turn into suspiciousness and this can be hard to deal with especially if it turns into defensive biting or nipping. Due to the Keeshond's need for companionship and desire to be part of the family they do experience separation anxiety higher than other breeds. They will display this behavior through destructive chewing and excessively barking when left alone. This can become very aggravating for the owner and neighbors.

Health Problems hip dysplasia: Ball and joint problem of the hip that causes arthritic like symptoms. patellar luxation : Known as trick knee.

Epilepsy: Causes seizures.

Crushings Disease: Often mistaken for aging, this causes weight gain, indoor urination, and hair loss. Hyperparathyroidism : Causes elevated calcium in the bloodstream. This can make dogs very ill.

Hypothyroidism : Problem of the thyroid causing severe weight gain. von Willebrands Disease: Blood clotting disorder.

Grooming

Grooming for the Keeshond is considered to be moderate. They have a very thick and long double coat and this does need some care. The Keeshond are heavy shedders and therefore combing and brushing regularly is definitely necessary. The shedding will only increase as the shedding seasons occur. When brushing or coming this breed it is essential to brush the hair right from the skin. If you cannot see the skin when brushing, you are not brushing properly. The point of this excessive brushing is to remove the dead hair. When all the dead hair has been removed, the coat should be brushed or combed through without running into any snags or mats. All the dead hair should be removed before bathing the dog. When bathing the Keeshond it is important that no water or soap gets in the dogs ears or eyes. A regular dog shampoo can be used, but it is important not to use human shampoo or liquid soap because that can cause skin irritation. The coat of the Keeshond is very thick and this can make bathing a little more difficult. It is essential that the dog is rinse thoroughly making sure that all traces of soap are gone. Soap left on the skin of the dog can cause skin irritation. The head of the Keeshond should not be washed during the bath to ensure that water and soap does not get into the eyes or ears. A waterless shampoo can be used instead. To dry the Keeshond both towel drying and blow drying can be done. To towel dry the dog, it will take about three large towels and four hand towels. This depends on how much the dog naturally shakes off as well. When blow drying it is important for that a non-heat dryer is used. During cold weather it is essential to make sure that the dog is dried completely. When the weather is hot or humid it is also essential for the dog to be dried completely as they can develop

a rash. The rash develops when the hair is not dried and then it lays against the skin for a day or so. The Keeshond's ears need to be cleaned out as well. This can be done with Q-tips, cotton bolls, and baby oil. The oil is put in the Q-tip and then used to clean the ear. The cotton balls are used to clean out the excess dirt if there is any. The nails on the Keeshond need to be trimmed regularly because it is important that they keep their cat-like paw shape. This should be done once every two weeks. The between the pads of the feet should be kept trimmed as well. If the hair is not cut between the pads then they lose their traction.
Exercise

The Keeshond needs to have daily exercise. They are very active indoor dogs and this can be reduced by ensuring that they receive enough physical activity. They will be satisfied with a daily walk. However, a nice run through the park is highly appreciated. One concern for the Keeshond is that they gain weight very easily. It is important not to over feed them. It is essential that they receive exercise to help with the weight issues as well. The Keeshond does very well in mild and moderate climates. Due to its heavy coat, it does not tolerate hot weather very well. It is important that the dog is not overly exercised in warm and hot weather. Because of their desire to be around family and involved with family activities they make excellent dogs for the active family who spends a lot of time outdoors.
Training

Training the Keeshond can be quite the difficult task. They are independent thinkers and can have a manipulative streak in them. They often have a mind of their own and get bored with repetition. However, they are excellent at obedience and are highly intelligent. When training the Keeshond it is essential to use positive, consistent, but firm training. They do best with fairness and structure. It is important that the Keeshond knows that the owner or handler means what they say. Keeshond training should start at a young age to reduce some of the problems that can occur into adulthood. Socialization training should start when they are very young puppies to ensure they do not become suspicious adults. It is also important for them to be taught manners at a young age so they learn not to bark or destructively chew when they get bored. They are eager to learn new things and this makes them perfect for obedience and learning new tricks. This will keep them learning new things and prevent them from being bored. Training also is a great way for the dog and owner or handler to spend time together. This will fill the dog's desire for human contact and affection.

Kerry Blue Terriers

Aliases: Kerry, Irish Blue Terrier
Life Span:12 - 15 years

Litter Size:5-8 puppies, average 6 Group:Terrier, AKC Terrier

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black, Blue, Gray-Blue, Blue/Grey, Black Speckles, White Speckles

Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:18.5-20 inches (46-51 cm.) Male Weight:33-40 pounds (15-18 kg.) Female Height:17.5-19 inches (44-48 cm.) Female Weight:33-40 pounds (15-18 kg.) Living Area:Even though these dogs require a high level of activity and exercise, they do fare well in an apartment setting or smaller household. They are fairly active indoors on their own, and a small fenced-in yard is ideal for them. The dog is known to become bored easily, so providing activities and attention is important. These dogs will not do well being chained up all day, and will require some affection and attention on a regular basis.
Description

The Kerry Blue Terrier has been rightfully named after the County of Kerry in South West Ireland. The dog has often been called the Irish Blue Terrier to give it its territorial designation, and has been common in the County Kerry region for centuries. Known to be a working dog, this dog has often been used to herd cattle and sheep, and works as a guard dog in most countryside farms and even households. The Kerry Blue Terrier has a distinctive look and unique appearance; a long snout and welldeveloped muscles best describe the upper body, while the dog is well-balanced and evenly proportioned. It has a definite terrier style and strong character, and the low-slung Kerry is not a typical style of breed. The ideal Kerry is about 18.5 inches at the withers, and rarely extends over 20 inches. The legs are long and well proportioned with plenty of bone and muscle. The head is long but not exaggerated, and remains well-proportioned to the rest of the body. The eyes are dark, small, and not prominent; they are well balanced and placed evenly. The ears are V-shaped, and are in proportion to the face with moderate thickness; they tend to fold slightly above the

skull level and are carried forward close to the cheeks. This gives them a "dead" ear, almost houndlike appearance and can often be undesirable to some breeders. The foreface is full, and moderately chiseled. There is little difference between the length of the skull and foreface. The cheeks are even and free of bumps, and the neck is moderately long with increasing width at the shoulders. The hindquarters are strong and muscular, offering plenty of freedom of moment. The coat is soft, dense, and wavy but it can also become harsh and bristly. The Kerry Blue Terrier is usually a shade of blue gray or gray, and is commonly uniform in color except for dark black part son the muzzle, head, ears, tail, and feet. The color can transition into darker colors as the dog matures and increases in age. Interestingly enough, these dogs are born pure black. Training these dogs is relatively easy, as they have been bred to become sheepherders and can take instruction very well.
Coat Description

The Kerry Blue Terrier has a strong and wiry coat, and can be easily spotted with its dark, bluegray hue. A smooth coat is common immediately after brushing, and puppies are actually born black.
History

The Kerry Blue Terrier originated in the County Kerry region of Ireland in the 1700's. Originally a mountain dog, the naturally heavy coat kept them warm throughout different climates. The Kerry is the national terrier of Ireland, and has become Ireland's symbol. The dog's coat may have been derived from the Portuguese Water Dog with its signature silky, wavy coat; it may also have been derived from Irish Wolfhounds, the soft coated Wheaten Terrier, or the classic Irish Terrier. The Harlequin Terrier has reportedly made an appearance in Irish history, with many similarities and qualities as the Kerry Blue Terrier. The Kerry Blue has been used as a farm dog, house guardian, police dog, and small game hunter. They have consistently been family companions and are often involved with police research and work involving hunting. They are easy to train and can perform a variety of tricks. Today, the Kerry Blue Terrier is most commonly a companion and home guardian.
Temperament

The Kerry Blue Terrier is strong-headed and can commonly found in high spirits. Loyal, affectionate, and gentle, these dogs can be considered mean to smaller dogs but have very kind hearts. Because of their size and stature, many have been used as competitive dogs and have even been nicknamed "Blue Devils" for their toughness and competitive streak. Modern breeders commonly take advantage of this breed's natural aggressive qualities, and the dog can be very vocal and especially aggressive as a puppy. It is important to maintain a firm but kind tone with these dogs as they can become especially sensitive to feedback and attention.

The Kerry Blue Terrier is especially well-suited for work, both indoors and outdoors. They are incredibly intelligent and work well with tracking, hunting, and of course sheep herding. Naturally obedient and very agile, these dogs will pick up new skills very easily and enjoy learning tricks. They fare well with new activities and will rarely turn down an opportunity to be active. The activity of the Kerry Blue Terrier is especially high, and they require an active lifestyle to stay healthy. These dogs require daily, intensive exercise and will do well with agility training in a variety of settings. It is important to keep them well-groomed and they may have difficulties with bathing rituals and routines. Training them at an early age will prevent these dogs from thinking they are the master; still, the Kerry makes a wonderful companion and enjoys attention from family members and owners. They are happy to be around people, and can be socialized easily at a very early age. It is important to make sure these dogs are socialized with other dogs as well, since they can come across as intimidating on many occasions. These dogs learn as they play, and this is an important part of training and development at any age. They can be especially responsive to feedback and making sure a consistency during training takes place is a top priority. The Kerry Blue Terrier is protective, and can be quite the handful if it is part of a large family of pets. Firm obedience training is the best way to handle these dogs, and they have a large range of memory skills and athletic ability. These dogs enjoy a challenge, but can also become very stubborn. If they become bored or restless, they will easily move away from their routines. Combining intensive exercise and relaxing activities with training is a great way for these dogs to become competitive, strong, and mindful. These dogs make wonderful companions after receiving affection from their owners, and are naturally loyal and obedient as a result.
Health Problems

The Kerry Blue Terrier is generally a very healthy dog, and is known to live for extended years above other breeds. These dogs are especially prone to genetic disorders involving a variety of eye problems, and a few notable skin conditions. These dogs do have some special medical conditions to be aware of, including: Hip Dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness. PNA Cataracts: common problems with vision and eye movement Spiculosis Hair Follicle Tumors Entropion

Narrow Palpebral Fissure Distichiasisme Retinal folds: may progress to blindness

Grooming

The Kerry Blue Terrier needs to be groomed on a regular basis. Ideally, grooming should take place once every six weeks, as this will help keep hair clean, free of dirt, and glossy. Since the coat has a tendency to become bristly or rough, bathing and conditioning the coat is required at least once per month. The hair of the Kerry Blue Terrier needs to be maintained short and flexible; the hair needs to be pulled out of the ear canal as well, since it can grow to the point where infecions and dirt build up too easily. When hair becomes too long, wax and dirt can be especially disadvantageous to the dog. Grooming the dog can take some time and training, and patience is key! A professional groomer will make use of the appropriate brushes and combs to make the session successful, and it is a good idea to learn how to do this with an expert's advice or direction. Dogs that require extensive grooming will need professional services on a regular basis. The distinctive blue coat is especially attractive for competitison and shows, and it is relatively easy to maintain. The Kerry Blue Terrier sheds very little and the dog is odorless, even when wet. Frequent bathing is recommended, and will not dry out the skin as it would in other breeds. Bathing and combing at least once per week is a basic requirement, as this will ensure a high level of hygiene and proper maintenance year round. It is important that the dog's beard is well-maintained at all times, as this an become smelly and lead to infection or buildup. These dogs do not tend to get allergies easily, and they maintain their rich coat throughout the seasons.
Exercise

The Kerry Blue Terrier is a naturally athletic dog, and requires plenty of long walks. The best exercise for these dogs involves a combination of running, walking, and jogging. Jogging alongside the owner is a wonderful way to bond with the dog, and provides plenty of fresh air. These dogs require stimulation on a regular basis, so dog toys and other activities indoors will help them stay positive and intelligent. These dogs do not tend to be destructive in the house, and thus are well suited for smaller living spaces. An ideal workout for the Kerry Blue Terrier is running outside in a large, open space. However, these dogs may run off too easily and will need to be restrained, well trained, or simply be held back on a leash. Tug of war games, Frisbee, and fetch are the best outdoor games for these dogs. Since they are natural sheepherders, providing them with enough grounds to run upon is essential to their growth. These dogs may seem as if they have an endless amount of energy, and elderly owners

may have difficulty keeping up! Regular exercise is a natural part of their lifestyle and needs to be incorporated into their routine as often as possible.
Training

The Kerry Blue Terrier is easy to train and socializes well with new owners, companions, an dmasters. They are best trained at an early age and can be taught key obedience skils in a matter of a few weeks. The Kerry Blue Terrier is a natural problem solver and can become very independent quickly. They enjoy challenges, and will pick up new skills and behaviors after only a few trials. They may have difficulty with inconsistency and constantly-changing surroundings; still, these dogs will adapt well and enjoy positive encouragement and attention from their owners. The first step in training the Kerry Blue Terrier is to make sure obedience is fun; they need to be excited about following the rules, and they will respond well to training that is intermixed with play. They can become quite attached to a favorite toy, ball, or other physical object and will shape and learn behaviors when they can be playful and relaxed. Since these dogs learn so quickly, speed and repetition are only important in the beginning. These dogs will pick up new skills relatively easily and may become bored; it is important that they are offered a wide range of activities to explore, grow, and adapt to. The Kerry Blue Terrier responds immediately to body language and tone, and it is essential that they are praised outwardly and given plenty of physical affection. These dogs are quick, alert, and attentive; they are naturally agile and will rarely miss an opportunity to prove that they have successfully completed a task or project. Making sure the dog is corrected when it has misbehaved is an important part of training, and they will respond positively with consistency and firmness. A simple 5-10 minute session once or twice per day is the ideal amount of training for these dogs. Mixing play with each training session will ensure that these dogs are given ample amount of variety in their learning process.

Komondors
Aliases: Hungarian Sheep Dog, Hungarian Komondor
Life Span:between 10 to 12 years Litter Size:up to 3 pups. Group:Flock Guard, AKC Working

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:white, pure white, cream

Hair Length:Long Size:Extra Large Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:20 inches-25+ inches Male Weight:Up to 125 pounds Female Height:19 inches-22+ inches Female Weight:Up to 120 Living Area:The Komondor is a hearty breed and will do best if it lives in an area or circumstance that allows it to be out of doors. This breed loves to run and exercise itself and having space to do so will add to animal's quality of life. However, the breed can do well in apartment dwellings too as long as it is given enough time and opportunity to exercise outside. The Komondor is very well suited to different climates. It will do fine in high heat climates and it will do equally well in cooler climates. Unlike many breeds that are better suited to living indoors, the Komondor can live out of the home if needed. This should only be done if the outside portion that it will live in is securely fenced and gated. Remember, this is an instinctive guard dog and it will go after what it feels is a threat to the owner or to the owner's property.
Description

There is almost no mistaking the Komondor for any other breed. The Komondor is a massive dog with a proud gait and a long history of honor and pride. The Komondor worked with the Puli in ancient Hungary. The Puli would do the actual herding during the daylight hours, and the massive Komondor would guard the flock at night. The Komondor is completely covered with an extraordinary felted and corded coat. The coat can run from 8 to 11 inches long and is one of its most unique features. This coat is always white. Some people believe that this corded white coat helps the dog blend in well with the sheep that they guard. It has also been thought that this unique coat add protection to the animal. In the Komondor breed, the head and muzzle are massive and impressive even though they are somewhat short. The animal will have eyes that are dark brown and alert to movement. The Komondor has U-shaped ears that hang down and often seem to blend into the rest of the coat. The body of this breed is characterized by a powerful, deep chest, which is muscular and wide. The breast of the healthy Komondor is broad and well-muscled. For most animals the belly is

somewhat drawn up at the rear, but this can be hard to see when the coat has fully grown out. For show purposes, softness or lack of good muscle tone is a fault. This breed should not only be strong but should look strong as well. When looked upon from a short distance the animal's bone structure should appear massive and strong. The tail hangs down, and this is considered normal.
Coat Description

The Komondor has a truly unique characteristic to its coat. The outer coat of the animal will fuse with the undercoat to form a type of felt that hangs in long cords. It can take up to two years for the cords to form completely and 5 years to reach the desired length. The puppy coat is relatively soft, but it will begin to fall into cord-like curls as it grows. The young adult coat, or intermediate coat, consists of very short cords next to the skin which may be hidden by the fluff on the outer ends of the cords. The mature coat will be a dense, soft, woolly undercoat much like the puppy coat, and a coarser outer coat that is wavy or curly. The coarser hairs of the outer coat trap the softer undercoat, forming permanent, strong cords that are felt-like to the touch. A grown dog is entirely covered with a heavy coat of these tassellike cords, which form naturally. It should be noted and remembered that the length of the coat is a function of age, meaning that it grows with each passing year. For those wishing to enter the Komondor into shows, much more detail on the coat is required. You can learn more about the show requirements by doing an online search. The usual color of the coat is white, but not always the pure white of a brushed coat. In puppies you might see a small amount of cream or buff but this normally fades with maturity. As with the coat, if you plan to enter your Komondor into any shows you should research the color qualifications and disqualifications. This, too, can be found at many online websites that are devoted to this wonderfully interesting breed of animal.
History

The Komondor has a long history and some of that is intertwined with the Puli breed. It has been asserted that the Komondor is descended from Tibetan dogs. Some researchers believe that the Komondor was brought to Hungary more than a thousand years ago by nomadic Magyars. These hearty dogs were used to guard flocks of sheep during the nighttime hours. Because of their willingness to protect the flock and the owner against any threat, big or small, they were highly prized among the shepherds. Some newer research is suggesting that they came from the Cumans. The name, Komondor (they propose) came from the name, Koman-dor, which means dog of the Cumans.

To give you an idea of how ancient this breed may be the earliest written reference to the breed is from the 16th century. During the ages since it has been used as a reliable and loyal guard dog. Beginning the 1920's the breed began to show up in dog shows. It has since gained a wide popularity with owners the world over. Even today the Komondor is often used as guard dog for livestock.
Temperament

People who are unfamiliar with the Komondor should spend some time researching the breed and then visiting with a live Komondor before purchasing one. The reason for this is that the Komondor is a serious, confident, and commanding breed of animal. For the most part, it can be very reserved with strangers and will size up any stranger who happens to be in the vicinity. The Komondor is very territorial and it will protect the owner and the owner's property without hesitation. It is good to remember that this breed has fought wolves, bears, and many other predators when it was used a guard dog in times past. That same willingness to get into a fight is alive today. It can be fiercely protective and even aggressive, especially with strange dogs, but also with people. Anyone considering this breed as pet, must understand that the Komondor needs to be thoroughly socialized with people and other dogs at an early age. The serious temperament of the breed is one of the most important aspects of the animal that perspective owners must consider. Even with the best of training this breed can and does often react from instinct. This can cause serious problems for some owners. You should only purchase a Komondor if you are willing to invest in the obedience training that it will need and if you are willing to be somewhat "on the edge" as far as safety is concerned.
Health Problems

As with many breeds of dogs the Komondor is prone to hip dysplasia. This breed is also somewhat prone to Bloat and skin problems.
Grooming

It is very important for all owners to understand that the coat and hair of this breed should never be brushed. It must never be combed either. The hair of this breed is divided into cords and those cords will need to be separated by hand. The Komondor will require bathing and it should be noted that this bathing can be a laborious process. The drying time for this breed can be up to two days if it is left to air dry. The animal does not shed much if any at all.

The Komondor's teeth need to be kept clean. If the owner is not able to perform this grooming task, a pet salon should be used. Proper dental care is extremely important as it helps your pet to keep its teeth for as long as possible. You should trim the nails once a week or so to prevent overgrowth. This is very easy to do. You will need a pair of animal nail clippers that can be found in most pet stores. Only trim the top portion of the nail and do not over cut into the nail. The hair between the pads of the feet should be trimmed when it becomes long. Baths should be given only when needed.
Exercise

The Komondor is a medium level exercise breed. For the most part it will exercise itself if it has enough room to do so out of doors. It is important to ensure that the dog cannot get lose as it may attack other dogs, animals, and people that it feels are a threat. For walking, the Komondor is very energetic and will happily take long walks with the owner. The animal is not exactly a playful breed, but it is a loyal breed and will attend to the owner's wishes when trained properly at an early age. It should also be noted in that some Komondors are very lazy and will be more than happy to lie and nap for hours and hours. In an otherwise healthy animal, this should not cause alarm or concern.
Training

This breed requires training and there should be no getting around that fact. They need complete and firm obedience training by an experienced owner or from a professional trainer. The breed can be very willful and must be taught who is the master. Because of the chance that it might attack other animals and people this training should be started very early on and it must be reinforced during the life of the animal. This breed is very smart, but it can be easily led to boredom. For this reason it is always a good idea to have something for the animal to do or to play with. The breed enjoys learning new tricks and will usually try very hard to please the owner. Many owners will attest to the fact that this breed can be very loyal to the owner and the owner's family. The breed is known to show respect toward those who own it. However, it should not be forgotten that this dog can become very aggressive when it feels that there are threats nearby. Proper obedience training can go a long way in solving this potential problem but owners should never let their guard down when there is the possibility of trouble. Komondors can be good family dogs if they are socialized as a young puppy,

trained thoroughly, and raised with children from the start, but they are not recommended for most families, especially those with small children or for owners who already have another animal in the home. For the very best results, it is highly recommended that you get a puppy when purchasing one of this breed. Older dogs will have a mind of their own and they may not be trainable to your standards. In addition, they will be much harder to accept the other issues that may be a part of the home such as children and other pets. When training is started early, the breed can become a very good family pet, but that training must start as soon as possible and it may best be conducted by a professional trainer.

Kooikerhondjes
Aliases: Kooiker, Kooiker Dog, Kooiker Hound, Dutch Decoy Dog
Life Span:12-14 years Litter Size:5 to 7 puppies Group:Sporting, Working

Recognized By:FCI, UKC, APRI, ACR Color:Showable Kooikers come in only one acceptable color combination--a white coat with patches of chestnut red or orange--but black and white Kooikers sometimes appear. Hair Length:Long Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:14-16 inches (35-40 cm) Male Weight:20-40 lbs. (9-18 kg) Female Height:14-16 inches (35-40 cm) Female Weight:20-40 lbs. (9-18 kg) Living Area:The Kooikerhondje will do better when he or she has a great deal of opportunity for exercise. Outdoor or rural areas are ideal, but suburban or even urban environments can work if

nearby parks are large enough to fulfill the Kooiker's need for energetic activity. A fenced area is helpful to keep the Kooiker from chasing small animals and possibly getting lost.
Description

The Kooikerhondje is a medium-sized dog, similar in size and appearance to a spaniel. The Kooikerhondje's coat is somewhat thick, is of medium length, and is for the most part bi-colored with white and chestnut red being the most common color type. The Kooikerhondje's most distinctive physical features are the black tips of its long, feathered ears, known as the earrings. The longer the earrings, the more desirable the dog for breeding and showing purposes. In addition, the Kooikerhondje's legs are often moderately feathered, while its tail is ideally heavily feathered with white fur. Its muzzle is fairly thin, like a spaniel's, and ideally forms a perfect "scissor jaw" with the upper teeth only slightly overlapping the lower teeth. The Kooikerhondje's eyes are dark and tend to have an alert expression. The Kooikerhondje was bred as an all-purpose dog: members of the breed can be invaluable as hunters or decoy dogs for duck hunting, and the breed was initially developed with these purposes in mind. But the Kooikerhondje's friendly yet watchful temperament also makes it ideal as a watchdog or simply as a family companion. Kooikerhondje can be easily trained without much harshness on the part of the trainer, allowing dedicated Kooikerhondje owners to train their dogs for virtually any purpose they have in mind--on the condition, of course, that you keep your dog happy by providing plenty of exercise, a healthy portion of food, and lots and lots of the personal attention these friendly dogs so crave.
Coat Description

Kooikers have medium-length, thick coats. Kooikers have white, densely-feathered tails. The most distinctive marking on a Kooiker's coat are its black "earrings", black feathers of fur found at the tips and near the base of Kooiker ears. The longer the earrings, the better-bred the Kooiker.
History

Kooikers have existed in Holland at least as far back as the sixteenth century, judging from the breed's memorable appearance in many Dutch paintings of the period. Kooikers were bred as duck decoys, used for trapping live waterfowl by attracting them with their bushy tails, leading them along the banks of a canal, and finally drawing them into a catching pen where they could be sold at the market. Unfortunately, the Kooiker became much less useful as duck decoys became increasingly unpopular, and by 1939 only about twenty-five Kooikers were thought to still be in existence. Due to the efforts of eccentric dog breeder Baroness von Hardenbroek, the Kooiker made a spectacular reappearance, and the breed was formally recognized by the Dutch Kennel Club in 1966. The Kooiker remains rare in North America, but efforts are being made to popularize the breed.

Temperament

If there's one word to describe the average Kooiker, it's "friendly"--provided that the Kooiker knows you well. Kooikers tend to be extremely reserved with people or animals that they don't have experience with, which can sometimes lead to problems with barking or other antisocial behaviors. Once the Kooiker has had the opportunity to make your acquaintance, however, the dog will enthusiastically greet you, be entirely willing to learn from you, and will soak up any attention that you're willing to give (with a few exceptions, as we'll see.) Unfortunately, Kooikers don't have nearly the same enthusiasm for getting to know other dogs or cats, and won't always take well to other animals that they haven't known from an early age. There's a flip side to this general friendliness, of course: the problem of the Kooiker who isn't taught from birth to enjoy the company of humans. Kooikers in general, although enthusiastic, are also quite sensitive to the tone of people's voice and to being touched--qualities that make them good watchdogs, but that can sometimes be problematic when the Kooiker is primarily being used as a family pet. If a trainer is careful and willing to spend a great deal of time with the Kooiker in its youth, Kooikers' sensitivity to human beings will be lessened to some extent, at which point its enthusiasm for its friends and family makes it one of the more charming breeds in existence. But Kooikers, however well they're trained, will always have a few problems with some types. Children in particular can easily upset the Kooiker if they're too prone to shouting at or roughhousing with the dogs, and harsh trainers can actually undo important training work and make the Kooiker much less useful and friendly. So as the saying goes, "choose your friends wisely"--as well as your Kooiker's friends. Once a Kooikerhondje knows his trainer and masters, he becomes loyal to the point of legend. Prince William of Orange owned a Kooikerhondje named Kuntze who, in addition to his many other valuable services, literally saved the Prince's life by deliberately waking him up during an assassination attempt. While of course not everyone expects this level of usefulness from their Kooiker companion, the dogs still show this same basic quality of loyalty to those who train them and will aggressively bark at anyone who's actively threatening you or your family--while remaining reserved yet fairly quiet to anyone who seems harmless, but who is as yet unknown to the dog.
Health Problems

Because Kooikerhondje are extremely well-bred dogs, they are susceptible to certain hereditary conditions. These include: Cataracts Epilepsy Von Willebrands disease Degenerative muscular disorders (Hereditary Necrotic myelopathy in particular)

Grooming

For those who hate the sometimes tedious work of dog grooming, the Kooikerhondje will come as a welcome surprise: Kooikers require very little maintenance or grooming. Their long coat does require a good brushing with a standard dog brush about once a week during most of the year, with more frequent brushings during the shedding season. This is mostly done just because of the Kooiker's longish hair, usually not to get out any excess dirt or other dog messes. As a result of their genetic heritage as duck decoys, Kooikers have a naturally waterproof coat which repels most of the dirt and much found on other breeds. Another advantage to the Kooiker's waterproof coat is the lack of a need to bathe the Kooiker on a regular basis. In fact, bathing a Kooiker too often can actually be harmful--frequent baths destroy the Kooiker's waterproof coat, which means that the Kooiker's coat will no longer automatically repel dirt and grime--which means more work for you in the long run. Trust nature to take its course, then, and only bathe your Kooiker when it's obvious that he or she needs it-which even in active, outdoor dogs should be quite some time. As far as other grooming issues go, you can largely leave the Kooiker to its own devices--the Kooiker will shed in the summer, eliminating the need for clipping or trimming, and its nails and teeth require little maintenance. Although it's said that prevention is often the best cure, the best way to keep a Kooiker clean, healthy, and presentable is simply to brush them regularly and leave them alone until you notice a problem for a vet or a groomer (or simply for an evening with a bathtub and a bottle of dog shampoo.)
Exercise

Kooikers were bred for duck hunting--a sport which involves lots of running, chasing, and retrieving on the part of the dog. Kooikers still have this predilection for activity as a strong part of their genetic heritage, and you'll have to be the one to make sure that they get all of the excitement and action that they crave. As former decoy dogs, Kooikers thrive on games of fetching or chasing. If you can find a decently-sized park in your area--or if you simply live in the countryside--you can get a great deal out of your Kooiker by throwing a ball into some brush and waiting for the dog to happily retrieve it, burning all of that excess energy. It's not always a wise idea to give children the responsibility for exercising a Kooiker. Kooikers are upset by unwanted touching, loud noises, or general roughness--all of which children are capable of to an upsetting degree. If you do ask your children to exercise your Kooiker, make sure they know about the dog's sensitivity and ask them to be careful--although Kooikers' loyalty rarely wavers, you don't want your kids to upset the dog and possibly lose a week's worth of dedicated training. Kooikers are also noted for their love of swimming. If you have a dog park, river, lake, or other source of water nearby, you can both delight your Kooiker and drain off some of that excess

energy in one single action by allowing the dog to swim to his or her heart's content--if anyone gets tired of swimming, trust us, it'll be you.
Training

Kooikers are very intelligent dogs, but they come with two significant problems for trainers to overcome. One is their natural tendency toward exuberance. The other is their natural inclination to like some humans and other animals intensely, while disliking other animals and humans with equal intensity--which can lead to some very powerful behavioral problems. The solution to these problems when training is to use your tone of voice effectively to discipline and reward your dog for his or her behavior. This doesn't mean that you should simply shout at the dog whenever it does something wrong, or that you should simply pet the dog whenever it does something well: Kooikers are naturally reticent about being touched by people they don't know very well, and their sensitivity to people's voices makes shouting at them too traumatic to be fully effective as a training mechanism. Instead, speak quietly but firmly to the Kooiker whenever he or she does something wrong. The Kooiker's natural sensitivity will add the necessary severity to your words, and the dog will, over time, avoid the behavior. You can reward your Kooiker for good behavior through play and exercise, giving the dog a needed burst of energy. If your training program involves a good deal of exercise, you can delight the Kooiker and teach him or her at the same time--Kooikers thrive on both learning and activity, after all. One positive reward that you should generally avoid, however, is food. Kooikers have notoriously large appetites and can gain weight very easily if their diet isn't regulated properly. Although this makes training a Kooiker through treats useful in the short term, it can create some long-term problems with the dog's expectations and behavior over the long training period--if you're trying to keep the dog's weight down, you won't be able to give it fattening treats in response to good behavior, which breaks a crucial component of the training cycle. Rely instead on exercise and positive praise in a friendly tone of voice.

Kuvaszs
Aliases: Hungarian Sheepdog, Hungarian Kuvasz, Kuvaszok (plural)
Life Span:10-13 years, up to15. Litter Size:6-9 puppies, average 8 puppies Group:Pastoral, Working, Guardian Dogs

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NZKC Color:White, cream or ivory.

Hair Length:Medium Size:Extra Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:28-30 inches (71-76) Male Weight:100-115 pounds (45-52kg) Female Height:26-28 inches (66-71cm) Female Weight:70-90 pounds (32-41kg) Living Area:This is not an apartment dog at all. While they need space to run, a mid-sized yard should do for the first two years, since you want to keep them from doing any damage to those fast growing bones during that time. A very sturdy 6-foot fence is far more important that square footage in the early years. However, as your Kuvasz progresses toward adulthood, more time should be spent outdoors and wide spaces are essential for physical exercise as well as emotional well-being. Those who keep such dogs in the country may want to consider building a puppy paddock.
Description

This very large, white, fluffy dog is one of several types of large herding and mountain dogs that have spread throughout Europe in the last few thousand years. In fact most pastoral regions in Europe and Western Asia seem to have their own breed, slightly different according to the requirements of climate and inclination. They are intelligent and hard working without fail. The Kuvasz is no exception. Bred to guard royal persons and property in the more rugged parts of modern day Hungary, they've been a sign of wealth and privilege since becoming the royal bodyguard during the Hungarian Renaissance. They are quite large, often exceeding 100 pounds, and take nearly 2 years to reach maturity. They are known for being independent and fiercely loyal, often to the point of self-sacrifice. They are very good with children but must be well socialized to keep them from viewing all visitors as strangers and enemies. The breed, as a whole, is slow to anger,preferring instead to take their time and make up their own minds about everyone and every situation. However, when the situation warrants immediate action, he or she is ready to fight. The Kuvasz is so large that it could easily kill an unarmed man or few, so it's a dog not to be trifled with. It is for this reason that a great many were shot by advancing armies during World War Two, since they actually did present a threat to the life and limb of anyone who wasn't "theirs."

They have a very triangular head with black skin and nose. Their ears are floppy and tend to frame the face. The gait should be easy and fluid, and they tend to trot like a wolf when they run. Kuvasz dogs and bitches alike require a great deal of exercise and should be considered a country dog. Though many are keeping them as companion animals rather than working animals, they take work very seriously. As your puppy grows up with your family, the work of keeping your "herd" safe will be a full time job. This will often involve a great deal of barking.
Coat Description

The Kuvasz coat is always thick and white, varying to an off-white or ivory colour. Other colours are not accepted in show dogs, but make fine companions or herd dogs, regardless. The undercoat is thick and fluffy with a slightly wavy and mid-length overcoat. The fur rarely forms dreadlocks or attracts dirt when the dogs are left to their own devices. Bathing with soap will remove the coat's oils and is a last resort when addressing stink or filth problems.
History

One of the world's oldest dog breeds, the Kuvasz was known in Eastern Europe, as early as 2,000 years ago. It is thought this and several other breeds of large European working dogs descended from a single ancestor in the Mesopotamian region and headed west. The Kuvasz has been associated with the Magyar people of Hungary since they were nomadic herds people. The dog was especially valuable because of its ability to herd and guard horses and cattle as well as sheep. The breed received royal attention from 15th century Hungarian rulers who used them for many years as a royal guard. They have also been used to guard the royal children, not infrequently serving as tiny cart horses for toddlers. Today's breed standard is largely unchanged since those times. After being devastated in World War Two, mostly for being fiercely loyal and guarding their charges in the face of mortal danger, the breed was saved by a factory owner who wanted a few Kuvasz dogs to guard his factory from looters. When he had difficulty finding even one, his eventual search found only about 30 dogs left. Today's dogs are descended from those few survivors.
Temperament

This ancient and quite intelligent dog was bred to be independent and make decisions on his or her own. As such, the defining characteristics of the Kuvasz personality are the loyalty and protection of the "flock" and a headstrong attitude that borders on the imperious. You will get no respect from this dog for simply being a human. If you want to establish yourself

as the alpha dog in this pack, you're going to have to earn that distinction. Most of all, you'll need to behave in a fair and reasonable manner. The Kuvasz is smart enough to know when you're being unreasonable, according to his or her standards anyhow. Punitive punishments will result in a loss of respect and potentially in violence if you really insist upon treating your dog as a slave. While many dogs have an overriding concern to please their owners, Kuvasz and other large herding dogs are more interested in doing the job right. If you're pleased in the process then, all the better. They like to think of themselves as the partner of man and are very happy and successful when treated as such. Commands are not necessarily followed, though not because they don't know what you want. Instead, Kuvaszok want to make up their own minds about any order you give. If it doesn't seem reasonable at the time, he or she will probably ignore you. For this reason, off-leash excursions are not recommended, just in case there's an incident where your dog feels his or her "flock" is in some sort of danger. Because they don't fully develop until they're two, most owners also notice a significant change in their dog's behaviour upon reaching physiological maturity. After two, they "settle down to business" and are able to begin intensive herd training or, even just settle down as companion dogs. If they are to begin herding, they should be introduced to the animals that will be their charges as soon as possible, usually in the first few months. Like all puppies, they will bite and play with the livestock, though it is good to remember that even an 18-month old that weighs over 100 pounds is still a teenager. They will act accordingly. They are typically very good around children and other members of the family, but must be convinced of the good intentions of anyone else. This means that one should constantly have them meet new people (on their territory).
Health Problems

While the Kuvasz doesn't normally suffer from much in the way of congenital disorders, being a large dog, there is some incidence of Hip and joint disorders. However, the most common cause of problems among this breed is the result of owners Feeding them as much as they want or with too rich of food. Vitamin or coat supplements are also a major cause of development problems. They were bred to grow up on what could be a starvation Diet if up in the mountains with a flock. This, coupled with the intense amount of growth these dogs achieve in the first six-months of their lives, can cause the bones and connective tissues to develop abnormally. Any owner who sees signs of lameness in their dog, from as early as four months, should bring him or her to the vet immediately to determine if it's simple Growing pains or something far more serious.

Growing pains: during the first year, your Kuvasz will grow faster than any human ever has. Because of this, there are often real growth pains, such as those any fast growing teenage boy destined to be tall can describe. Hip displaysia: a good breeder should be able to Show you certificates and X-rays that demonstrate both parents are free from this disorder. The first signs of a serious form could appear as early as 4 months. Bloat: it is recommended that you feed your Kuvasz twice a day to keep them from literally twisting their stomachs when they eat to much at a time.
Grooming

The Kuvasz has a very thick double white coat that is designed to protect him or her from all sorts of weather for literally, months at a time. It is naturally water and dirt repellent as long as you don't wash it very often. However, this breed is known for producing copious amounts of excess hair, especially during the shedding seasons of late spring and early autumn. A doubling of coat care is a good idea during shedding events. Grooming should be done weekly with a "pin comb" or a type of thick comb that looks like tiny horse tack. These are good for the skin as well as removing excess fur, and dogs that are made used to regular grooming from their puppy-hood on will probably enjoy the attention. It is very important that you get your Kuvasz used to grooming when young, because they have the ability to very actively resist you and several friends. Cleaning of the ears and nail care are also very important aspects of grooming. The dog should be made accustomed to regular inspections and grooming at as early an age as possible. This means regularly touching and inspecting the paws and ears. If a Kuvasz gets the idea that you can or should be resisted during grooming, they can easily prevent you. Even if your dog is very active and tends to wear down is or her own claws, pay special attention to the dew claws that can grow right into the paw and cause great pain. Another area of particular concern are the teeth. Because they're large enough to destroy most natural bones, it is difficult to find anything other than small trees that will be sturdy enough to effectively clean your Kuvasz's teeth. As such, you may find yourself giving your dog a bushing with a finger brush and specially formulated poultry flavoured toothpaste.
Exercise

Like many other herding and working dogs, Kuvaszok need to be able to range freely every day. While they don't often take to strenuous exercise and likely won't chase a ball or Frisbee, they do like to have a constant low to mid-level of activity. They are also very serious about keeping busy at work, and the best way to work these dogs is to give them a job. They are large enough to be able to herd and protect even very large herd animals such as horses and cattle, though they will also do well with sheep, alpaca, llama and goats.

City dwellers will have a hard time giving a Kuvasz the exercise it needs. A regular walk won't do it unless you can train one to use a treadmill. They are also not good off the leash, so taking them to the park to run around for a few hours is also not a very good option. The exception to this regimen is the first two years of life, when excessive exercise can exacerbate existing tendencies towards skeletal and connective tissue problems.
Training

These dogs are very large and can be quite wilful at times. They, like many other herding dogs, are used to making their own decisions and tend to view their humans as either their property or their equals. Socialization training should commence far before any obedience work is done. They tend to take to housebreaking quite easily, as they're naturally rather clean dogs. However, it is important you don't resort to any sort of punitive punishments during the course of your training. They have a very strong sense of "justice," and don't have any respect for someone who betrays their trust. Training should begin very young with reward based play training and socialization. This can slowly be made a bit more strenuous, but should not ever include severe punishments. If you must reprimand, do so immediately. Even waiting a few moments will be out of context for your dog and of less than little use. It is key to remain firm and, above all, consistent with your dog. Don't let other people give him or her commands, as they will usually only accept "guidance" from the alpha. Assuming you've "earned" that role, be sure not to abuse it. If your dog thinks for a moment you're teasing him or her, you will loose respect and may find subsequent commands to be dully ignored.

Labrador Retrievers
Aliases: Lab, English Retriever, St. John's Dog, Black Water Dog
Life Span:10-12 years Litter Size:8 puppies Group:Sporting Dog, Gun Dog

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black, Yellow, Chocolate Hair Length:Short

Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:22-24 in (56-61 cm) Male Weight:65-80 lbs (27-36 kg) Female Height:21-23 in (53-58 cm) Female Weight:55-70 lbs (25-32 kg) Living Area:Labrador Retrievers do not do well without some kind of yard for exercise. Urban apartments will work only on the condition that you can walk or otherwise exercise your dog on a regular basis. Suburban homes or even rural areas are usually the best in terms of space in order to keep your lab healthy. Rural areas with readily-accessible bodies of water (rivers, lakes, beaches or even ponds) are the best of all.
Description

The Labrador Retriever is one of the most popular and easily-identifiable dogs in the world. The dog is reasonably large, standing at about two feet at the shoulders and with an extremely heavy and muscular body. Labs have floppy ears, longish noses, long legs relative to their stocky bodies, and distinctive otter-like tails that help them to steer their bodies when swimming. They come in three basic color variations--chocolate, black, and yellow--with a wide variety of shades and hues within those basic colors, anywhere from a foxlike red to a nearly-white shade of lemon.
Coat Description

The Laborador Retriever's coat is short and hard to the touch. The coat is sometimes slightly waving across the dog's back, but is otherwise straight. Labs have a distinctive insulating undercoat of soft fur.
History

The Labrador Retriever, contrary to its name, most probably arose from the St. John's Dogs used for fishing in Newfoundland. The St. John's Dog would go out with the fishermen in their boats and retrieve distant lines or nets of fish, hauling them back to the boat. These early purposes for the dog are the most likely reason for the waterproof coat, rudder-like tail, high endurance, and love of swimming seen in the Labradors of today. In the late nineteenth century, however, some of the St. John's Dogs were brought to land and trained as gun dogs for aristocratic hunting and retrieving. The more refined dogs became known as "Labrador Dogs" in order to distinguish them from the larger Newfoundland Retriever, developed for some of the same purposes.

The popularity of the newly-christened Labrador Retriever as a gun dog and sporting aid led to the breed spreading worldwide, and today the Labrador Retriever is a highly-recognized and distinctive breed in thousands, if not millions of homes around the globe.
Temperament

The Labrador Retriever is a very active, excitable dog, bred for hunting and swimming and overall energy. This can make it an excellent family pet, and largely accounts for the breed's popularity--but it can also make the breed into a handful and a real challenge for inexperienced dog owners who don't know how to train and handle large, active dogs like the Lab. Although Labs are wonderful dogs once their owners understand how to deal with them, they can be the worst nightmare of people who think that a few pats on the head, a walk now and then, and lots of treats to keep the peace are a viable strategy for owning a dog of this breed. Labs are extremely friendly. This can be a very good thing--it's easy to introduce your Lab to a new person without lots of barking or aggressive behavior--or a very bad thing--since the eightypound Lab will often express his or her friendliness by jumping on that same new person, sometimes even knocking them down. Although Labs are highly intelligent, they often get a reputation for being fools of the canine world due to their overexuberance and even hyperactivity. Labs also remain mentally immature for the first three years of their life, exacerbating the problem of their overfriendliness considerably. Careful training can get these intelligent dogs to think twice about their actions, however, and can make them "safe for company." Labs also do fairly well with children, but you should be careful when allowing children to play with a Labrador Retriever--although the dogs would never knowingly do harm to any member of their "family", they can sometimes knock down and unintentionally harm a smaller child. As a rule, you shouldn't let children play with Labrador Retrievers without supervision until the dog's training is complete and the dog is well out of its puppy years. Anyone who tries to use the Lab as a guard dog will likely be disappointed: although Labs can be moderate barkers in some situations, the breed is far too friendly and far too non-agressive to be effective at patrolling a property or running off strangers. Labs' habit of barking can make them good watchdogs in some situations, but often at the cost of good socialization with family members.
Health Problems

Although generally healthy, Labrador Retrievers are still prone to the same hip and joint problems that plague most large dogs hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia. They are prone to a few eye disorders as well as Progressive Retinal Atrophy being the most serious. They also have large appetites and a tendency toward obesity which needs to be carefully checked by owners in order to keep the Lab generally healthy.

Grooming

The Labrador Retriever's waterproof coat is designed to self-clean in several important ways, which minimizes your responsibility for grooming to some extent. But without a regular schedule of grooming in some important areas, the overall health of your dog can decline, so the Lab's miraculous coat can't simply be left to do its work in isolation. The Lab's hard outer coat and undercoat should be brushed about once a week in order to remove any dead hair and to alleviate shedding. Labs can be bathed on occasion without problems, although shampoo should be used lightly in order to avoid damaging the waterproofing on the Lab's outer coat. Often a simple dip in a nearby pool or river can do the trick for cleaning off a Lab, assuming that you don't mind the "wet dog" smell that swimming causes. The Lab's ears should be checked on a regular basis for signs of parasites or infections. Dropeared dogs are at a high risk for this kind of ear injury and damage, and regular cleaning and inspection of the Lab's ears can help with prevention (which, as the adage goes, is worth a pound of any cure.) The Lab's hard coat and active lifestyle can also cause small bits of dirt, leaves, or even parasites to get caught close to to the dog's skin, causing heavy irritation. Regular brushing and occasional baths will take care of most of this, but a quick inspection of the Lab's body from time to time can help you to know when the best time for a brushing or bathing is, and can help to find and remove parasites before they become health problems for the dog.
Exercise

Labrador Retrievers are very excitable and will require a great deal of exercise, especially during the first three years of their lives. At a bare minimum, you should expect to take your dog for about two walks a day. Make sure to use a strong leash, as Labs have very powerful neck and shoulder muscles and can easily pull you off balance if you aren't careful. Beyond these walks, however, you'll need to give your Labrador some room to get out all of the exercise he or she needs. A yard is the best for this kind of activity, and a fenced yard is vital to keep your dog from wandering off or chasing strangers or other animals--remember, the Lab was bred for hunting and retrieval. Since Labs are powerful jumpers, you need to make sure that you have an adequate fence in place in order to keep your Lab from escaping. Four feet of fencing will stop all but the most dedicated of jumpers, while six feet will be an impassible barrier to any Lab. Your dog isn't likely to try escaping unless he or she is otherwise bored or unhappy--which shouldn't be the case--but if any escape attempts do occur, you'll need to be ready for them. Labs are also natural and enthusiastic swimmers. If you have access to any kind of water--rivers, beaches, lakes, swimming pools, or even ponds--you should make a point of using these as ideal exercise venues for your Lab. Although all Labs naturally excel at swimming, younger Labs may need some time to get used to the water, and all Labs should be introduced to the water only near natural "steps" or other shallow regions--this ensures that the dog will know how to get out of the water whenever he or she starts to tire, or whenever he or she simply gets bored with swimming for the day. Under no circumstances allow your Lab to simply jump into deep water and hope for the best--even the best swimmers can't keep afloat if they don't know how to get out of the water

when they need to. If you're worried about the exuberance or activity of your dog, remember this and be comforted: Labrador Retrievers are quick to mature physically, but slow to mature mentally. Until sometime in their third year, your Lab will likely have the mind of a puppy but the body of an adult dog--a condition which leads to some very exuberant, sometimes difficult to control exercise. This is not a problem that will last throughout the dog's life, and any Lab will naturally become much calmer with advancing age.
Training

The Labrador Retriever is an extremely excitable dog, known for its propensity for swimming, pulling on leashes, and jumping on friends and family members to show its excitement. This kind of behavior is normal for many dogs, but for the Labrador Retriever--which usually weighs at least sixty pounds, and often much more--it can be a serious problem. Rudeness is one worry, of course--no family member wants to be jumped on by a wet eighty-pound dog if they can help it--but over-excited and under-trained Labs can also knock down and injure children or smaller adults, and it's simply a hassle to deal with as a Lab owner. So training for your Lab should start as early as possible. At about six months, Labs are fullygrown (physically, at least--mentally, Labs require about three years to fully develop), and training at this point becomes much more difficult simply due to the dog's large size. So introducing simple commands ("sit" and "heel" in particular) should be done before that sixmonth threshold in order to make later training much more manageable, and to discourage jumping and other rude behavior to some extent. Consistency and positive rewards for good behavior (as opposed to negative punishments for bad behavior) are mainstays of any effective dog training, and both will work well with a Lab--with some reservations. Although an individual trainer can be perfectly consistent with a Lab where rewarding good behavior and discouraging bad behavior are concerned, the Lab will form its behavior patterns based on its entire human "family"--meaning that if one human tolerates jumping while another human forbids it, the Lab will usually continue to jump due to the "mixed messages". It's important to make everyone in your family aware of what rules the Lab is to follow and to make sure that everyone enforces those rules. Although Labs are very intelligent and can learn rules of behavior quickly, they can be just as quick to "unlearn" rules that don't make sense to them. So be as consistent with the rules as possible. Positive rewards for good behavior should also be verbal rewards or rewards of affection-soothing voices, pettings, and other similar rewards--as opposed to food rewards. Labs have a tendency toward overeating, and offering food rewards for good behavior can contribute heavily to this problem if not moderated closely. If you do need to offer your Lab a special dog treat or other food-based reward for a particularly impressive feat of obedience, then make sure to adjust the Lab's diet accordingly in order to maintain good health in the long term--far more important, one could argue, than good behavior.

Laekenois
Aliases: Belgian Laekenois, Chien de Berger , Laekense, Belgian Shepherd

Life Span:12-14 Litter Size:average 6-10 puppies Group:The Laekenois belongs to the Herding family. Recognized By:CKC, FCI, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:The color of the Laekenois can vary from Mahogany to Fawn and often they come in brown and white too.

Hair Length:Long Size:Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:24-26 inches (61-66cm.) Male Weight:55-65 pounds (24-29kg). Female Height:22-24 inches (56-61cm.) Female Weight:55-65 pounds (24-29kg). Living Area:Prefers to live indoors as part of the family but does need regular exercise. They can also live outside if necessary, but generally the breed will not be happy with this. Due to its thick coat, it would be better to keep the Laekenois in places where there is a cool climate but if that is not possible then it will adapt easily to whatever climate you live with.
Description

The Laekenois has a unique appearance with a wire coat and a really long tail. It is the rarest of the four different Belgian Sheepdog breeds and it is extremely intelligent too. It is the only Belgian Shepherd dog which is not recognized by the American Kennel Club. The Groenendael, the Malinois and the Tervuren are closely related and they are all recognized as a breed by the

American Kennel Club but the Laekenois is not. It can be shown in Great Britain however as well as some other countries too. Bred to herd, their bodies are very well proportioned and they have really muscular hind legs which surprisingly do not look too heavy. Color wise they tend to be either a fawn or a mahogany colour and they all have a black underlay. The muzzle is fairly pointy but not excessively so and its ears are small and they do tend to look a little out of place. This is the one physical fault which many people do not like about the appearance of the Laekenois. Appearance wise the Laekenois closely resembles the other Belgian Shepherd dogs. Well known for their shaggy and unruly fur, these dogs are watchful of everything and they try extremely hard to please their owners. The nose should always be black and when looking at the mouth you should notice that the teeth form a level bite and they meet like scissors. The skull of this breed is flat and it meets parallel to the muzzle. Excellent with sheep and with strong guarding instincts, the Laekenois is an excellent sheepdog and they are best suited as working dogs. These days they are used both as working dogs and as pets.
Coat Description

The Laekenois has a really thick, woolly type coat. Usually brown and white in color, it is really coarse and will require a coarse brush to detangle it. It also has a waterproof layer and you have to be careful not the bath the breed too frequently as otherwise it can potentially get rid of the waterproof layer.
History

The Laekenois was originally bred in Belgium, hence the reason it is otherwise known as a Belgian Sheepdog. It comes in a variety of colors and as they tend to look different in most parts of the world they are known as the same type of dog. However in America they are all known as different breeds of dog, only the Laekenois is not recognized at all. When Queen Henriette reigned, the Laekenois was the favourite type of Sheep herder available. However today it is considered to be the least popular Sheepdog. These days the Laekenois is used more as a guarding or police dog than anything else, though it can also make an excellent pet if properly socialized.
Temperament

With particularly strong guarding instincts, the Laekenois can make an excellent watchdog. However, if socialized properly from an early age they can also make good, family pets. Unlike many other breeds, the Laekenois does require a lot of socialisation and they need to be handled quite firmly. However they will not react well to harsh training, they will simply ignore you or react in a really negative way. The one thing you will need to watch mainly is when introducing the dog to other non canine

type pets. This is because of their natural instinct to chase and herd other animals. So if you have a cat for example, you could end up with potentially a lot of hassle as the Laekenois may try to herd it and chase it around the home. Needing to be part of the family the Laekenois will not cope well in a kennel. If you have children then as long as the Laekenois has been properly socialized throughout its early years, it should be perfectly happy to share its environment with the children. Just be watchful in the beginning as they do have strong territorial instincts and if they have not properly been socialized then they could easily snap and lash out at a curious child. Usually they tend to bond with only one or two people so they are not as much of a family dog as some other breeds. They prefer to have a really close bond with just one person and they will constantly seek them out whenever they are out of sight. As the breed was bred to be constantly active, they do need a certain level of exercise and attention. They need to be tested and regular training can really bring out the best of them. If they are not given the adequate amount of exercise and attention needed then they will tend to get rid of their excess energy in other ways such as chewing or barking and whinging. They always have to be doing something and they are not usually content with just lying down all day. Overall the Laekenois is an active dog and its main occupation these days is to work with the police or as a guard dog.
Health Problems

The Laekenois is an extremely hardy breed of dog with no major Health concerns to report. Some simple Health Problems to be aware of include:
Excessive Aggressiveness-This is mainly a problem in dogs which have not been properly trained early on in life.

Hip Dysplasia-Officially known as Canine hip dysplasia, it can cause the dog to have mild-severe lameness. They can also suffer form skin Allergies, elbow dysplasia and eye problems. Overall though they are a healthy breed and you should not have to spend thousands of dollars at the vets. Grooming

Generally the Laekenois does not need an overly large amount of grooming. As its coat is wiry and dense it will need to be detangled when necessary and it should be trimmed roughly twice yearly. However never close trim the coat as this will ruin it and it will take years to grow back to normal.

When you do groom them, ensure that you use a coarse toothed comb in order to deal with the tangles. As a rule this breed does not usually shed their hair very often. However when they do shed ensure that you brush them regularly to remove the excess fur and to keep the coat looking as tidy as possible. The coat should always look rough and you should only ever bath them when it is absolutely needed. Washing the Laekenois too often can result in it losing its waterproof coat. So the fact that you do not have to wash the breed regularly is great news for owners who prefer not to go through the hassle of washing their dog! So just watch out for tangles and use a coarse toothed comb every week or so and that is all that is needed with this breed. If you would prefer to keep the coat looking good however then you could always go over it every other day and that could help to keep the coat shiny. Other grooming tips include trimming the nails when they become too long, though always ensure that you know what you are doing first. Also to prevent tartar build up it would be a good idea to brush your dogs teeth with specialized dog toothpaste at least once a month.
Exercise

As the Laekenois is a working breed, it does need sufficient exercise in order to keep it happy and healthy. If you have a medium to a large sized garden then you can always get away with just playing with the dog in the garden on some days. However they will need as much exercise off the lead in wide open spaces as much as possible. Without regular exercise behaviour problems can occur, so be sure to give the dog at least one hours exercise per day. A game of fetch could be fun and the Laekenois will love chasing after a ball. Also activities such as agility would be excellent exercise for the breed and as they have to think too it can really help them to get rid of any excess energy which they may have. You could even purchase a Frisbee and play Frisbee with the dog. Having them jump up for the Frisbee will really help to give them added exercise, though be careful not to throw it too high into the air as if the dog jumps too high it could end up with an injury. You may even like to consider joining a herding type group where the Laekenois can really get a chance to do the job which it was bred for. You could also teach the breed to find things such as their favourite toy. By spending a few hours a day teaching them new tricks that will exercise them mentally which is often a lot more important than giving them physical exercise. So do not even think about taking the Laekenois on if you do not have the time to spend exercising and training them. You will end up having to pay a lot of money towards potential damages if you do not give them the exercise that they crave and it is simply not fair on the dog either to have them locked away indoors. All herding breeds are best suited to a working life but if you do insist on having one as a pet then you do need to make the time for them.
Training

As a rule the Laekenois loves to work and be challenged mentally and so they are open to any training that you can give them. They are highly intelligent and if you can, agility would be a

good thing to teach the breed. Your training methods should be firm but never harsh. If you do attempt to train the Laekenois in a harsh manner then you will simply end up with a dog which reacts overly negative. This means that it would be a lot easier to train them using rewards rather than punishments. Clicker training in particular could be useful. If you are not overly confident about training the Laekenois yourself then it would be a good idea to enrol with a training school. If you could find a training school which is specific to the Laekenois then that would be highly recommended as they will know exactly how to train the breed and the particular problems which may come with it. Sometimes they can become a little too shy; especially when they are puppies and so that is why it is really important to socialize them as much as possible. The main thing to remember is to persevere and allow them to mix with children and other animals and eventually they will increase in confidence. Generally metal stimulation is more important than physical exercise. The Laekenois loves nothing more than to work things out and be pushed to the limit. So it may be a good idea to train them at herding or in advanced obedience classes.

Lakeland Terriers
Aliases: Patterdale, Fell, Cumberland, Westmoreland Terrier
Life Span: Average 12 years, up to16 years Litter Size:3-5 puppies Group:Terrier

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:reddish mahogany, tan, tan/wheat and black, black, grizzle or gray, blue, liver or any of the color variations listed above with grizzle. Hair Length:Medium Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height: Less than 14 1/2 inches (36.8 cm)

Male Weight:17 pounds (7.7 kg) Female Height:Less than 141/2 inches (36.8 cm) Female Weight:Females 15 pounds (6.8 kg) Living Area:Indoor with outdoor exercise space
Description

The Lakeland Terrier is a small sized terrier breed with a jaunty look and an intelligent expression. The face is long and rectangular in profile with smaller ears that fold over at the tips. The jaws and muzzle of the Lakeland Terrier are strong and square looking with a slight beard that adds to their unique appearance. The face is rather elongated giving a balanced appearance to the profile of the breed. The eyes are dark brown or hazel and are often partially obscured by the curly hair on the face. The Lakeland Terrier has a long and graceful neck that blends into sturdy shoulders. Since the breed was used for moving through brush the body is somewhat narrow and streamlined but not delicate looking. The whithers or shoulders are high and the topline is relatively short and level or slightly sloping, giving a leggy appearance to the dog that indicates its ability to run. The Lakeland Terrier has long, straight legs that are very sturdy and give the impression of walking forward on the pads of the feet. The legs are covered with slightly longer hair known as furnishings. The body is squarely built and very sturdy looking without appearing boxy. Usually the tail of the Lakeland Terrier is docked but in many countries this practice is now banned, so the terriers may be shown with a longer tail that is natural. The tail, whether docked or left natural is located high on the hips and arches slightly back over the body. The wavy coat of the Lakeland Terrier is rather stiff and rough to the touch, but is also very resistant to the weather. The coat is actually a double coat but the inner coat is not as dense and thick as in some other breeds. It is likely that this coat developed to provide protection to the breed when going through dense vegetation while on the hunt. The breed can be many different colors including black, tan, black and tan, grizzle, red and liver or blue all with grizzle combinations. Some adult Lakeland Terriers may have a darker saddle but others may not. In many cases the Lakeland Terrier puppies are born with very dark coats that change in color as the dog matures.
Coat Description

The outer coat of the Lakeland Terrier is wiry and rough and provides weatherproofing for the dog's body as well a protection for going through dense foliage and bushes. The softer inner coat is relatively fine and provides warmth and another layer of protection for the skin. The hair on the body is usually wavy but not very tightly curled and is consistent in length over the body. The hair on the face and muzzle is shorter but still curly.

History

The Lakeland Terrier was originally bred in the Lake region of England as a ratter and fox hunting dog. The breed has been developed through the selective crossing of several breeds including the Old English Wirehaired Terrier, the Bedlington Terrier, the Border Collie and the Dandie Dinmont Terrier. Originally known by one of several names including the Fell Terrier, Eltewater Terrier and the Patterdale Terrier, the name Lakeland Terrier was officially recognized 1921. The Lakeland Terrier quickly became a popular breed in the United Kingdom and then became recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1934. The breed was originally used in farming communities to keep the areas around buildings and farms free from vermin, as well as for hunting and as a watchdog. As fox hunting became a more common sport the breed really gained in popularity for its feisty and energetic personality as well as its ability to go through dense underbrush and chase foxes back out into the open for the hunters. Gradually the working and sporting dog evolved into the companion dog that it known as today. The Lakeland Terrier is still used in hunting trial and in agility and obedience competitions and events, making it a very versatile breed.
Temperament

The Lakeland Terrier, like most terriers, in an adventurous and energetic breed of dog that loves to spend time with its family. They are naturally very intelligent dogs and will be relatively easy to train with almost any type of trick or routine. Sometimes Lakeland Terriers can be challenging to housetrain but will learn quickly using crate training techniques. The Lakeland Terrier prefers to be with people rather than to be isolated or left alone. They can tolerate being left alone for short periods of time but are not a good breed when the family will be gone more than they are home. The Lakeland Terrier can find ways to entertain his or herself, but they can become destructive or problematic when bored or lonely. Usually this is displayed by digging behavior or barking. Regular exercise, lots of toys, companion dogs and time spent with the family will usually correct these problems should they develop. The Lakeland Terrier is wonderful for families with children of all ages, although they can be somewhat protective of food and toys. They love to run and interact with people and can be excellent companion dogs for non-canine pets and other dogs provided they are properly socialized. A natural hunter, the Lakeland Terrier will chase but not as much as some of the other terrier breeds. The Lakeland Terrier loves to be challenged with new activities and new places to explore and investigate. They often will find new and different ways to play with toys and to interact with people. The Lakeland Terrier is an affectionate dog but not one that will sit around for long periods of time. The breed will naturally want to be a part of everything that goes on in the home. They love to keep track of everyone in the house and will often spend time going from room to room just to keep tabs on the people in the family. If there are other pets in the house the Lakeland will often initiate play or chase games and is always up for romp through the house. Since the terrier will self-exercise it is considered a good breed for people in apartments or individuals that are not able to provide regular, long exercise in the form of walks or runs. One of the many positive attributes of the Lakeland Terrier is its nature to provide protection for

the family. They are very courageous and will bark and give notice of strangers and strange animals that approach. With proper socialization and training the Lakeland Terrier will quickly learn to stop barking on command and accept new people and animals. Typically the breed is rather wary of strangers but will soon get to know new people and accept them. They can be somewhat dog aggressive if not properly socialized and males tend to be more aggressive than females. Proper training, early and varied socialization and neutering and spaying will prevent much of the aggressive type behaviors.
Health Problems

The Lakeland Terrier is one of the many terrier breeds that is free from any of the serious hereditary conditions found in other breeds breeds. Occasionally Lakeland Terriers will have lens luxation, a condition of the eye, and they may also have a bleeding disorder known as von Willebrands Disease. A simple blood test administered by a veterinarian can check for this condition which is not life threatening and can be easily managed. Puppies may also be born with Legg-Perthe's disease that is a degenerative condition of the hip joint, although this is typically very rare. Checking the lineage of the parents will ensure that this is not a concern in a Lakeland Terrier puppy. Always check both Health records and temperaments of the parents if possible to ensure you get a healthy puppy that has a friendly and even temperament.
Grooming

The Lakeland Terrier is a wire coated breed that needs little in the way of intense grooming. Typically all that is required to keep the coat in great condition is brushing every two or three days with a stiff bristle brush or a pin brush. The hair around the mouth is prone to staining, so wiping the beard on light colored breeds after eating will prevent this from happening. Two or three times per year the dead hair will need to be removed by plucking or stripping. This is an easy process that owners can easily complete on their own. Stripping or plucking involves grasping the longer, dead hair with the fingers and then pulling out in the direction of the growth of the hair. This is a non-painful process for the dog and will prevent infections and matting that can occur if dead hair is left in the coat. For shaping the hair around the face and the body for showing more specific types of stripping can be completed to give the profile required for the show arena. Clipping a Lakeland Terrier is not acceptable for show but many owners do clip the body and the legs to keep down grooming requirements throughout the year. The hair in the ear passages and between the pads of the feet should be removed whenever it gets long. The Lakeland Terrier is a low shedding breed and does not have the seasonal shedding problems that many other breeds experience. Since the terrier coat has natural oils for protection from water and dirt it is important to only wet bathe when absolutely necessary.
Exercise

This little dog loves to be outside and have time and space to run and romp. They are avid chasers and will play fetch with a ball as long as the owner is willing to keep throwing. The breed is very active indoors and can adjust to regular outdoor walks even if they are housed in a

smaller house or apartment without a yard. Since they are a terrier breed they should be kept in a fenced yard as well as walked on a lead to prevent them chasing other animals while outside of the yard. In a larger fenced area they will self-exercise but may also dig if they become bored. The Lakeland Terrier is an ideal dog for family outings and travel. They don't need highly intensive exercise but can be excellent dogs as jogging companions. They make excellent agility and obedience dogs and are often used in trials and competitions. As with any breed of dog regular exercise is very important in both regulating weight and maintaining overall health.
Training

As with most dog breeds the Lakeland Terrier does best with consistent, positive training methods that include lots of socialization opportunities at an early age. The breed is very easy to train and highly intelligent and will quickly learn what you trying to teach. As with all terriers, the Lakeland can have a stubborn streak that needs to be firmly and consistently monitored. Usually Lakeland Terriers will become less compliant and stubborn if they have to repeat the same training routines and exercises in a repetitive fashion. Adding new twists to the routine and avoiding multiple repetitions of each particular command will minimize this problem. Occasionally the Lakeland Terrier can be difficult to housetrain. Crate training, which uses timing and positive rewards to take the puppy outside at specific times after eating, drinking and exercise will make housetraining much easier. Remember that lots of praise and attention for going outside is much more effective than punishment for an accident in the house. Leash or lead training is important for a Lakeland Terrier as they are natural chasers that can often dart out onto roads after other dogs, cats, birds or squirrels. Even though it is a smaller breed they don't require a harness, but this can be a good option for leash training. Socialization at the earliest ages is critical, especially if you have other pets in the house. In addition socialization will help with introduction of new people and new environments for the dog. Since the breed may be rather possessive of food and toys this needs to be a key focus in both socialization and training.

Lhasa Apsos
Aliases: Apso Seng Kyi
Life Span:12 to 18 years Litter Size:average is 4-5 puppies Group:non-sporting or utility/terrier Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC

Color:solid golden, sandy, honey, red, dark grizzle, slate or smoke, black, parti color, white, brown, and combinations of these colors. Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:10 to 11 inches at the shoulders Male Weight:14 and 16 pounds Female Height:9 to 10 inches at the shoulders Female Weight:12 and 14 pounds Living Area:Lhasa Apso's can live in houses or apartments in the country or city. They predominantly live indoors but will adapt to their environment. They are a sentinel breed always ready to alert their owners when someone or something approaches.
Description

The Lhasa Apso is an ancient, small breed which has beautiful dark eyes that are mysteriously appealing. Their long bodies sit atop short legs that make for a very hardy little dog. They have long, coarse coats that come in many colors and patterns that is neither silk nor wooly. The Lhasa Apso has characteristics of serious watchfulness, acute senses and is very intelligent. Its keen eye, quick hearing, and fine instinct for recognizing the difference between friend and foe make it an ideal watch dog. They are easily trained with loving but firm commands as they are very responsive to kindness and positive reinforcement using rewards. Lhasa Apso's are happy and long lived, adaptable and good with families including children when raised around them. It is one of the strongest minded of all small breeds but equally lives to please its owner. It is playful and curious yet remains calm and subdued in nature. It makes a wonderful housedog that does not need a lot of exercise. The Lhasa Apso likes heights and are excellent climbers. Owners should not be surprised if they find their Lhasa perched on top of tall furniture or on the dashboard of their vehicle. Lhasa's are also fond of caves and will create their own under a table, chair or desk. The are very sturdy, resilient and despite their often fragile appearances, are of tough character and very independent. The Lhasa is totally devoted to their owners and families and cheerfully provides unconditional love and uncomparable affection for many years.

Coat Description

The Lhasa Apso's double coat consists of a thick, top undercoat which is long, heavy, straight and coarse with a moderate undercoat being much softer. Their coat is neither silky nor wooly and can become matted easily if not properly groomed on a regular basis.
History

The Lhasa Apso is the most popular breed indigenous to Tibet. Sometimes they are known as the Tibetan apso. The name apso means goat like and long hair. In Tibet Lhasa Apso's are a treasured dog of the privileged. The Lhasa Apso made wonderful guardians as well as loyal companions. They were the only breed in Tibet owned by the holy men and the nobles. They were used as watch dogs in the temples and monasteries. The people of Tibet greatly respected these little dogs. They were never sold or bought but given as gifts and it was considered a great honor to receive one. The Lhasa Apso was once known as the Lhasa Terrier and was developed/created 800 years ago. The Lhasa Apso is called the Abso Seng Kyi or bark lion sentinel dog in it's home land where Tibetans favor a fail safe security system. The Lhasa Apso first appeared in the western world in 1901 when Mrs. McClearan Morrison returned to England with several of these little dogs. The Lhasa Apso was officially recognized by AKC in 1935 and was called the Lhasa Terrier. The name was officially changed to Lhasa Apso in 1944.
Temperament

The Lhasa Apso is gentle, happy, outgoing and devoted little dog. It has a bold temperament and is playful and affectionate which makes for a lively and friendly companion for other pets, children or elderly folk. Lhasa's are very people oriented and does not like to be left alone for long periods of time. A favorite pastime of the Lhasa Apso would be quietly napping next to its owner. Though it is a very regal looking species, its character is tough and ever so hardy. Although the Lhasa Apso is courageous and adaptable, it does not like rough handling or loud harsh words. Lhasa Apso's are timid yet can be assertive and strong willed with minds of their own. They are very intelligent, quite sensitive and do not respond well to raised voices which can cause them to be depressed. Their intelligence scores them many points during training as they seem to live to please their owners. Having been bred to be watch dogs, Lhasa Apso's tend to be alert and have a keen sense of hearing with a rich, sonorous bark that is deceptive of their size. They must not be overly spoiled as they may develop behavioral problems. The Lhasa is in a class of it's own when it comes to showing devotion towards a loving, gentle and firm but kind owner. Although they can be obstinate, they are forever loyal. The Lhasa is calm in nature and makes a wonderful lap dog for all ages and allows it ample enjoyment during traveling. In its moods of playfulness, they can be quite entertaining an very enjoyable.

Health Problems

The Lhasa Apso is relatively free of Health Problems with the few exceptions. Ear infections can occur if the ears are not dried properly after bathing, or kept free of unnecessary hair in the ear itself. Their eyes may tear if the hair is not kept out of their faces. A skin condition known as Sebaceous adenitis causes irritations of the skin resulting in Hot Spots (localized skin infections), hair loss, flaking of the skin and itching. The Lhasa Apso can suffer from genetic kidney problems These problems seem to be in certain breed lines rather than the whole breed.
Grooming

The Lhasa Apso sheds minimally and is a very good choice for those with allergies or asthmatic symptoms They are of high maintenance and require a minimum of bi-weekly brushing or combing. Their thick undercoat may become matted or tangled if not properly groomed on a regular basis. Specific areas this happens most often is with the hair behind the ears as it is usually softer . It is vital to pay special attention to extra hair on the bottoms of their feet and in their ears. These areas need to be kept meticulously clean and free of any excessive hair in order to avoid unnecessary ear infections or sores between their toes around the pads of their feet. It is just as important to keep the Lhasa's eyes void of excessive hair as this will ensure the eyes stay clear and fully vibrant. When some of their hair goes over their eyes the Lhasa Apso's eyelashes are long and strong enough to allow the dog to see very well. It is best to start getting the Lhasa used to being groomed when it is very young. This way, it will have the patience it needs to be still and quiet for long periods of time while being groomed. If Lhasa Apso's are not kept properly groomed they can develop skin problems. Regular bathing is important but do not over bathe. The Lhasa Apso has glands that secrete a natural oil which coats the surface of the skin and keeps it supple and moist. Periodic trips to the groomers for a pet clip will keep the Lhasa's coat manageable while still allowing the original characteristics of the breed to be enjoyed. If you own a Lhasa as a pet and do not show it, keeping your dog in a puppy cut or teddy bear clip is highly recommended.
Exercise

Lhasa Apso's have a moderate energy level so they do not demand a lot of exercise. Regular exercise will keep them fit, trim and healthy. Although they love to walk and scamper about, they equally enjoy regular opportunities to run free and play. Fetch is an excellent way to play with your Lhasa while providing it with daily exercise. The Lhasa Apso can play indoors thus meeting its exercise needs while having fun. However, they do benefit from outdoor adventures such as a daily walk. Large yards are not necessary as the Lhasa apso tends to occupy small spaces at any given time and can do so while being very content.

Training

The Lhasa Apso learns best with patience and calm words. It is important to establish a relationship of mutual respect for instance admiring his independent character while consistently enforcing your rules so that he respects you as well. Because the Lhasa Apso is strong willed with a mind of his own it requires a confident owner who can take charge. Training methods that emphasize food and praise will be met with much more cooperation. The Lhasa Apso can be manipulative and a challenge to train but is highly intelligent so it can learn very quickly. Forcing it to do things without positive reinforcement or rewards usually do not prove to be successful. When the Lhasa puppy has been fully vaccinated, extensive socialization will make the Lhasa Apso a very friendly and lovable pet. Bringing the Lhasa puppy to various places involving different sounds, smells and sights will eventually put it at ease on walks and during traveling. Remember to respect their instinct of being wary of strangers though. Be careful when introducing them to new people a to not overwhelm them with too much at one time. A wonderful session of training includes a visit to the veterinarian and groomer introducing the harness or collar and leash. Crate training can be successfully achieved if the crate is introduced to the Lhasa puppy at an early age. Taking the gate off the front makes for a wonderfully, safe and secure hideout. Here is where it learns to be comfortable in its crate and knows it will come out sometime after going in. Overall training can be a very fun and rewarding time for you and your Lhasa Apso.

Lowchens
Aliases: Little Lion Dog, Petit chien lion, Lion Dog
Life Span:12-14 years, though some have lived to be 18 Litter Size:puppies with the average being puppies Group:Toys, Companion Breeds, Non-sporting

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:white, black, spotted, cream, ivory, yellow Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Does Not Shed

Male Height:Dogs-12-14 inches (30-36cm) Male Weight:Dogs-12-18 pounds (5-8kg) Female Height:Bitches-10-12 inches (26-31cm) Female Weight:Bitches-10-14 pounds (4-6kg) Living Area:Most Lowchen are very well adapted to apartment living and other confined lifestyles, though they are also very happy keeping up with much larger dogs in a rural setting. Even homes without Their stamina is legendary and you may be surprised just how much time one of these little dogs can spend exercising, even when they don't often get much. They will, however, insist upon being with the human pack every night and you'll be hard pressed to keep them off the bed, since they also like to get up on things for a better view. Lowchen kept out of doors and away from people are certain to be very unhappy and may become especially aggressive towards other dogs. Their coats are also not well suited to running around in the brush, though a good combing is certainly required after such an excursion.

Description

Once the favoured companion of European nobility, a few dedicated people have saved the Lowchen from extinction after World War Two. These little dogs are very well suited to modern apartment living, just as they were perfect for cramped and droughty castle apartments. They are especially gaining in popularity because people who are normally allergic to animal dander can be around them without problem. They are thought to be native to Italy or Germany, though the first records of the breed come from paintings depicting them in the classic "lion cut" that all Lowchen kept for show must have. Since medieval times, Lowchen have been known as fiercely loyal dogs that are heartbroken when their masters leave. This is reasonable, as they've been selected for the most affectionate and friendly types. As such, they make terrible guard dogs, excitedly licking your would-be robbers. Unlike many other small dogs, Lowchens are noted for their friendliness to strangers unless poorly socialized when young. Though they may excitedly bark when one approaches, they will very likely begin demanding attention from anyone they meet. Physically they are small, with a round head and bright eyes. The ears are floppy, as is the hair that can grow absurdly long if you let it. The fur is fine and tends to be shiny and a bit wavy. They are usually white or black, but sometimes speckled or spotted and a bit more yellow. The nails are usually white, but occasionally black.

They tend to be lively, curious and sweet dogs. House training is rarely a problem if crate trained early, and they can easily go from being stuck inside to running around the woods in a minute, just as many modern humans do today.
Coat Description

The coat is somewhat thin and can grow to be quite long, though most people simply keep them cut into the desired shape.
History

Lowchens were first depicted in art dating back to the early medieval period, when they likely emerged as a separate breed. There is some debate as to whether they originated in Germany or Italy, but it seems they were common in European courts by the 15th century. It is believed they gained their traditional styling in the Florentine court where a fascination with "The Orient" caused them to have them shorn up to look like little Chinese lions. Their docile manner and loyalty to human owners is legendary. There is an apocryphal story that has a Lowchen known to history as Bijou jumping out the top tower of a German castle when his mater went out on hunt without him. True or not, Lowchen developed a reputation as a good dog for the wealthy to keep as a constant companion. More recently, the breed was popular with well-off European men and women of the 18th and 19th centuries, with particular popularity among the emerging middle class of Central Europe. However, in the 20th century, the popularity of the animal declined as modern ideas were adopted in all aspects of human life. During World War Two the breed was nearly exterminated, with only a few individual dogs remaining. Lowchens were even listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the World's Rarest Breed of Dog in the 1960s. Through concerted efforts of breeders and Lowchen fanciers worldwide, they are again popular, mainly in urban areas and with those who suffer allergies.
Temperament

These dogs are, above all else, loving and affectionate. They are also clever and cautious. Lowchens are usually relaxed, even around other dogs-able to perk up and play when the opportunity presents itself. However, the poorly socialized dog differs from the well-socialized one by being snappy and yipping with a piddling problem. They've been selected for several centuries as the companions of ladies at court and in that environment of constant care and attention, are almost always docile unless playing around. Since they are also tough and proud (for their size), Lowchen males tend to be alpha dogs, even

in a house with other large dogs. With affection being so paramount in the mind of most Lowchen, they are far less interested in protecting you from strangers as getting attention from them, in the hopes you'll all become friends and decide to pet the dog. Be careful with young pups to minimize separation anxiety. They are best suited to people who work at home or can take them to work with them. They are good with older children and parties, though young children should not be left alone with the dog, since they're so small and could be hurt easily. Be careful of situations with people who think your dog is a toy and treat it as such-he or she is still a dog. Lowchens will defend themselves if the danger seems mortal. If you were less than a foot tall, you'd be nervous, too. Though they're not usually hyperactive, they can present some trouble with barking and digging. This is often taken care of with attention and exercise, tough a particularly headstrong specimen may take some patient training. This is especially true of the barking. Lowchen feel it's their duty to announce any activity, no matter how small. They take readily to training and are usually quick studies with housebreaking and simple commands. They are very anxious to please their masters and make no differentiation between good and bad masters. Males can be wilful at times, though ignoring them is often the worst punishment you can dole out-use it carefully. The Lowchen is very rarely angry and only shows aggression when trying to assert him or herself over larger dogs. Their behaviour towards humans is almost always friendly and happy.
Health Problems

The Lowchen tends to be a rather healthy dog, but due to such a tiny population in the mid-20th century, the population remains somewhat severely inbred. There are a few lines with specific congenital problems. A condition that occurs when the kneecap keeps popping out of place also known as patellar luxation. Surgery is usually required to fix this. This will often occur when the dog is still young and appears as lameness and pain in one rear leg.
Grooming

The Lowchen coat is very easy to take care of, in part because there's so little of it, but it is a constant small chore. When the hair is not attended to every few days, it can quickly turn into a matted and dread-locked mess. It's a good idea to get even puppies used to the idea of grooming and turn it into an activity you can both enjoy, because they'll need it. On the other hand, they don't shed and are very often shorn in the traditional "lion cut" that is very close on the back and rear legs while remaining relatively long on the top, giving the appearance of a mane. This way, you only have to very carefully comb half the dog, with the rear

half being relatively trouble free, though sometimes a bit cold. Dogs that are not kept for show are most often given a puppy cut that tends to be about an inch long, all the way around. Either way, they will need attention every few days since their hair is so finely textured. The bill at the groomer's can be expensive since their fur grows just as fast as that of a large dog's. You can expect to visit every month or two at least to maintain even the puppy cut. It is very important to keep Lowchen nails well trimmed, especially if they don't get very regular exercise on cement or concrete. Very often owners will just take them in for regular visits to the groomer rather than bother with the inherent danger of trimming claws, especially the occasional black nail where you can't see the quick. Since they have floppy ears, it's also a good idea to check regularly for wax build-up. Of particular interest to those who show dogs is keeping the "tears" from staining white fur around the face. Aside from regularly removing it, there are some products on the market that may or may not be suitable for your dog-check with your vet before you use any product around your dog's eyes. Keeping your dogs teeth clean is relatively simple if you give them large beef knucklebones to chew on (never chicken or pork!) or dental toys. However, even with regular chewing, you dog may require some tooth brushing. If your dog is a good chewer, this could be as long as every few months, though for most dogs, this should be done every week or so. There are special finger toothbrushes and poultry flavoured toothpaste to use on your dog. Do not try using human toothpaste-they won't like the taste and there may be exposed to toxic levels of fluoride if they swallow it. You can even use a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger and just gently rub. Either way, your Lowchen should have his or her teeth at least examined with each and every grooming.
Exercise

Though they don't often require much, most Lowchen will happily take all the exercise you can provide, being especially fond of long walks. Never one to back down from a challenge, they've even been known to go along on very strenuous hikes and runs with their human pack. As long as they're with people, they don't seem to care how tired they may be. Regular walks and visits to the park are usually enough to keep a typical Lowchen healthy and happy. They may be taken off leach, as they usually mind well when properly trained, but may be in danger from some larger dogs. Like many other small dogs, they don't seem to realize how small they are and, will attack even very large dogs for no apparent reason other than to prove they're real dogs and not wind-up toys. It might be best to be careful at dog parks where there are a lot of big dogs for your

Lowchen to pick a fight with.

Training

The key with the Lowchen is to keep it under your constant gaze while a puppy. When you see a behaviour you don't like, you must let him or her know immediately that you don't like it. Because the bond that develops is so close, this can be as little as a stern look or whatever word you choose to mean you're not happy. Punitive measures are not necessary for the most part and they should feel bad enough when you let them know they've been spotted, as long as you do it every single time and within moments. Consistency is paramount. Though the dog can escape and piddle on the floor anywhere in the house and not get punished for it, you'll need to make sure your Lowchen doesn't have the chance to do so. Most trainers recommend using a crate for the first few months of life to make sure the housebreaking never becomes an issue. In fact, it's best you use positive reinforcement with your dog if at all possible. They are usually gentle creatures themselves and really want to be happy as much as possible. Their love of a good time makes them particularly easy to manipulate into a well-rounded companion you can take with you just about anywhere. It is also vitally important you socialize your dog early on to minimize the fear some lines of this breed are prone to. Dogs who aren't well socialized can become distrustful and angry - even snapping at people who try to touch it that he or she doesn't already know well. Meeting other dogs and people will not only get them accustomed to contact, but also exposes them to new ideas and situations that stimulate intelligence in the growing puppy brain.

Malteses
Aliases: Roman Ladies,Comforter Dog,Spaniel Gentle,Shock Dog,Maltese Lion Dog

Life Span:12-14 years Litter Size:Average is 2-4 puppies per litter. Group:Toy Group

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:White. Light tan or lemon on the ears is accepted, but not desired. Hair Length:Long Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:9-10 inches at the withers Male Weight:4-6 pounds, but no more than 7. Female Height:9-10 inches at the withers Female Weight:4-6 pounds, but no more than 7. Living Area:They are not an outside dog, as many fall victim to larger animals. Their coats are also not heavy enough to keep them warm and dry in harsher weather. They also make wonderful apartments dogs. They may not be good in homes with small children as they are very fragile and can break easily; a household with other children or adults is preferred.
Description

Maltese are small, fine-bonded, but sturdy dogs. Height from the ground to withers should equal in length from withers to tail. Their sloping shoulder blades lead down to short, fine-boned, straight forelegs, to elbows held close to the body, and onto small round feet; the legs should have a moderate amount of feathering. Going back up to the head, it should be of medium length, slightly rounded on top, and in proportion to the rest of the body. The ears are heavily feathered, long, and low set on the head. Eyes are dark, round, and alert with black rims giving them what is called a "halo" effect. Muzzle is of medium length, fine and tapered, with a moderate stop. Their nose is to be black, though may fade and become brown or pink during the winter, referred to as a "winter's nose"; it will turn back to black with more exposure to the sun. Teeth should meet in an even or scissors bite. Continuing on down the body, the neck should be long enough to promote a high carried head. The body is compact with a level top line. Chest is deep with well-sprung ribs and has a slight tucked up appearance in the loin. The back legs are strong, and are well angulated at the stifles and hocks. Finally, the long-haired well-feathered tail plume is carried high, draped gracefully over the back. A well put together Maltese looks as if he is floating along the ground under a great cloud of white hair.

Coat Description

The Maltese sports an all white single-layered coat, that offers little to no shedding. Their long hair should drape over each side, divided down the back with a center part from nose to tail; the hair should be about 8 inches long, or almost touching the ground. It is optional whether to keep the long hair on the head in a topknot, or to be left hanging. Some dogs may have kinky, curly, or woolly hair; anything other than a silky texture is out of standard.
History

The Maltese is the oldest European toy breeds, and amongst the oldest of all breeds. The breed itself can be traced back many centuries; Charles Darwin places them as far back at about 6ooo B.C. Though its exact origins are unknown, it is believed that they originated on the island of Malta in the Mediterranean Sea, hence the name "Maltese". They are believed to be descended from a Spitz-like dog used for hunting in marshes and wooded areas in Southern Europe; though also thought to have been used for rodent control. Bred down to obtain its small size, the breed has bred true for centuries due to being kept on the island, Malta. Though it is also thought to have originated in Asia and may have helped to form the Lhasa Apso, Tibetan Terrier, Tibetan Spaniel, and even the Pekingese. They have been seen in Egyptian culture around 300-600 B.C., and on Greek vases around 500 B.C. Brought to England by Crusaders and nomadic tribes, they soon became very popular with woman, who carried them around in their sleeves. They were favored by royalty, and it is said that Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Victoria, Josephine Bonaparte and Marie Antoinette may have owned them. In America, they were first shown as Maltese Lion Dogs around 1877, and were recognized in 1888 by the AKC.
Temperament

The Maltese is among the most gentlest-mannered of all little dogs. They are very affectionate, playful, loving and cheerful. Full of Personality, enthusiastic and energy, they are known for their sudden and wild outbursts; running in circles, or at top speed in all directions. Recommended as a great candidate for the first-time dog owner, these lovable companions want nothing more than to be with YOU. Adoring and devoted to their masters, they are eager to please, and can be very protective of their owners. If they feel other animals or people may possibly be a threat to you, or their territory, they will frantically bark and possibly try to bite the intruder. They are uninterested with objects or animals larger than themselves, they are without fear; they act like big dogs trapped in a little dogs' body. Bold and quick to sound the alarm at suspicious noises and strangers, they can tend to be barky. Lively and spirited, they are fairly easy to train and highly intelligent, quick to learning tricks and commands. Though some may be a bit stubborn, as their lovable nature and cuteness tends to

make them be very spoiled. They love to play outdoors and have a "thing" for jumping in puddles, or anything they can make a mess of themselves. Males and females are equal in temperaments. They can be snippy with rough children, as they are very fragile and break easily. On the other hand, they do get along great with other dogs, cats, and small animals. Some may be difficult to housebreak, as well as being picky eaters. Because of their devotion to their owners, they tend to suffer from anxiety issues when left alone for long periods of time.
Health Problems

The Maltese does not usually suffer from any major Health Problems, though because of their size there are a few things to watch out for. patellar luxation (in which the knee will pop out of place), hypoglycemia (low glucose or sugar level), Slipped stifle, and problems with Anesthetics. Some minor problems are: having an open fontanel (soft spot on head), hydrocephalus, distichiasis, Entropion, teeth and gum issues, eye infections, liver problems, and low thyroid. Occasionally, Deafness and white shaker dog syndrome is seen. White Shaker-Dog Syndrome is primarily seen in small white dogs, it causes an all-over tremor that may cause difficulty in walking. This disorder usually develops when they are adolescents or adults, and can be treated with medication.
Grooming

Daily grooming is required to keep your Maltese coat clean and snarl free. Many owners will keep them what is commonly referred to as a "puppy cut", where the hair is kept 1-2 inches all over the entire the body, where they then closely resemble a puppy. Though for ones that are keep in a coat for conformation, a lot more upkeep is needed. They often wrap the long hair to keep it from matting and snarling up. Dead hair needs to be brushed and plucked out, as the breed does not shed; the coat will become matted if the dead hair is not removed. In conformation, the coat is parted down the center of the back from nose to tail; the hair should reach the ground. To part the hair, one should stand directly behind the dog to better access whether the part is straight or not. Using a metal comb, start at the beginning of the neck and run it straight down the spine. The coat will fall to either side of the spine to wear you can just comb straight through to the ground. The long hair on the head is made into a topknot held together with rubber bands, bows, or ribbons to allow the Maltese to see. Trimming the hair in between the toes must be done every other week, is they tend to mat very easily. Maltese owners find it easier if after washing using shampoo, adding a "leave in" conditioner will help alleviate any knots and snarls while combing. It is very important that all shampoo and conditioner residue is completely gone from the coat, as the coat will fray and snarl very easily. Towel dry until damp. Finish drying him off by using a hand dryer. Never use high heat is it will ruin the coat by causing the hair to break off. Using a pin or slicker brush, brush with the direction (or grain) of the hair; make sure each section is completely dry before moving on. Make sure not to forget his head and feet as these areas tend to mat easily.

Maltese often have tear staining, the dog's eyes water excessively and turns the hair around the eyes a dark brown-black color. It is not really known what causes tear staining, though most owners have found that using bottled water vs tap water does decrease the amount of staining. It is also possible to have their tear ducts flushed, which may or maynot help.
Exercise

The Maltese exercise requirements are very minimal, mostly due to their size. Indoor games, a romp in the yard or a short walk on leash is more than enough then to keep them fit and trim. They can become overweight very easily; it is important that they get regular exercise. One should wait until they are at least 8 months old to start jogging, or any long-distance walking. They make a great choice for the elderly or disabled person, or those with limited space, such as apartment dwellers.
Training

Due to being highly intelligent, the Maltese are very easy to train. In that regard, it is due to being spoiled that most problems arise. They breed itself is known to be hard to housebreak. Because of their size, some owners will use "pee pads", in which the dog learns that it is alright to go to the bathroom inside the house. Even if you are successful with training them to go on a pad, the dog will be accustomed to using paper, and may then intend to go to the bathroom on any paper, or paper-like objects left on the floor. Using a crate is one of the best methods to housebreaking, as well as constant supervision. Use a leash or rope to tether them to yourself; this will keep them from wandering off and relieving themselves. When 100% attention can not be paid to them, they should be put into their crate. Upon waking, before and after playing and eating, and before settling in for the night, they should be let outside to go to the bathroom. By using special treats only used for when they go outside, and lots of praising will soon get the dog onto the right path of being housetrained. More so than other breeds, the Maltese need a large amount of companionship with their people and do not like being left alone for long periods of time. They can become destructive by chewing and ripping apart your house, as well as constantly barking in their frustration. By giving them a bone, or a toy aimed for mental stimulation, will keep them occupied and less destructive, but it is not a cure. If you are not home for long periods of time, or can't take a break in your schedule for one on one time, then this is not a breed for you. Standoffish by nature, they need to be provided with enough socialization and exposure to different people, places, and animals at a young age. They are naturally cautious, which if not socialized properly can cause them to become shy and fear aggressive. It is important to make socialization fun for the dog, using treats or other rewards for reacting nice towards strangers, is the best way to encourage your dogs' good behavior. With a tendency to bark, they should be taught that excessive barking is uncalled for.

Manchester Terriers

Aliases: Black and Tan Terrier

Life Span:15 - 16 years Litter Size:2 to 4 Group:Terrier, AKC Toy for Toy Terrier

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black and tan Hair Length:Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:15-16 inches (39-40 cm.) Male Weight:18 pounds (8 kg.) Female Height:15-16 inches (39-40 cm.) Female Weight:17 pounds (7.7 kg.) Living Area:While the Manchester Terrier is a dog that has a lot of energy to spare, they tend to still do well in a smaller apartment dwelling as well as with a larger backyard. As long as this dog can get outside from time to time, and is given plenty of attention, it will be quite content to burn off its energy in the space it is given. Another consideration is that the Manchester Terrier is much better off in warmer climates as its tends to be unhappy in cooler temperatures, due to its coat and skin.
Description

The Manchester Terrier can be of a standard size or also comes in smaller toy varieties. Considered to be one of the most easily identifiable breeds around, the Manchester Terrier is also one of the oldest breeds around today. With smooth black hair, a long tapered nose, small bright eyes, and a flat narrow skull, this is not a large dog by any means. The chest of the Manchester Terrier is set deep into the body, rather than being wide when measured. The short black hair with lighter brown patches at the feet and muzzle areas allow this dog to be quickly identified in comparison to other dogs. What's impressive about the appearance of the Manchester Terrier is that it has not changed in quite a few centuries.

There are two varieties of the Manchester Terrier according to its native England, these are known as the Manchester Terrier and the English Toy Terrier. The Toy breed is much smaller than the 'regular' breed and has become quite the stylish dog to carry around. An easy to train and highly lovable breed, the Manchester Terrier always has a focused expression on its face and can have several different types of ears - cropped, natural erect, and button.
Coat Description

The Manchester Terrier has a short coat that is short, smooth, and shiny when healthy. It is black and tan, with the tan focused on the legs, stomach, and muzzle area. The coat should be short and dense, glossy, but never soft in feel.
History

The Manchester Terrier has a dual history in both England and in the United States, making it a well-traveled breed. In England, the Manchester Terrier was first used as a way to hunt and kill all the rats that were filling up the streets in the 1800s. A man name John Hulme bred a dog by crossing a Whippet and a cross bred terrier to help the 'sport' of rat killing. The result was a dog that was perfectly suited for hunting and killing rats, and thus became a successful dog breed. Also called 'rat terriers' in those days, the idea of breeding smaller dogs was conceived in order to keep up the sport of rat killing. But they were also used in traditional hunting to climb through grasses and thickets that the larger versions could not get through. These smaller dogs were often referred to also as the 'Gentleman's Terrier.' In the United States, the Manchester Terrier was quickly inducted into the American Kennel Club shortly after the club's inauguration.
Temperament

With a lot of energy to spare, the Manchester Terrier is a great companion for active owners. Outside, this breed of terrier is happy to run around and play, but indoors, they can be calm and sedate. With their energy, the Manchester Terrier is quite capable of being agile and athletic. They might have a slight mischievous streak, but they are also willing to listen to commands from their owners. Loving to please their master, they will respond quickly to training if they are handles in a constant manner with consistent discipline as needed. While the Manchester Terrier is good around children and other pets, they will still need to be watched. It is simply not a good idea to leave this dog alone with smaller children and animals.

This terrier still exhibits aggressive tendencies when they are in a situation where they don't feel they are the dominant one or that they need to assert their dominance. Another consideration for those looking at the Manchester Terrier is that they can have troubles when they are left alone for long periods of time - especially when they are young. They can begin to crave this alone time and can become irritated when they are not left to their own devices. It is important to allow younger Manchester Terriers to socialize and interact with others as often as possible to begin to create a healthy demeanor. They will become bored and irritated when they are left alone for long periods of time as they are quite dependent on attention from their owners. This may not be a suitable breed for someone who is gone a lot of the time, or who has to leave the house for extended periods during the day. Sometimes stubborn, proper training can help to manage the Manchester Terrier and make them more suitable for household living. If the dog was improperly trained in its youth, it will need strong training to curb these aggressive tendencies. But you can train them with consistent training exercises and goals. A Manchester Terrier that is not constantly attended to can also exhibit signs of hyperactivity, destructiveness and loud barking.
Health Problems

Because of its tendency to be active, the Manchester Terrier doesn't usually develop a lot of Health Problems. But here are some that have been seen in this particular breed:
von Willebrands Disease - This is a disease that is transmitted via heredity lines and causes abnormal bleeding in the dog, but is also seen in humans. Some dogs will experience severe internal bleeding as well as prolonged bleeding after cuts and scrapes. Generally, this disease is not necessarily treated, but constant monitoring for excessive and possibly fatal bleeding is advised.

Glaucoma - While most people think of Glaucoma as a problem with the eyes, it's actually a disorder in which the blood pressure is elevated and thus causes pressure on the eye's retina, distorting sight. This can lead to problems with vision loss and optic nerve damage. Treating this condition is possible, and sometimes surgery is indicated as well. Talking with your veterinarian will be the best place to start.

Heat sensitivity - Because of their thinner skin and shorter coat, the Manchester Terrier may develop a sort of heat reaction when out in the sun too long. Small bumps can appear on the back of the dog, indicating that they have had a bit too much sunshine for the day. Treatment is to bring the dog indoors or at least in the shade until the bumps subside. Have the dog drink plenty of water too to cool down

the inflammation.

Grooming

With the short tan and black coat, the Manchester Terrier requires little, if any, special grooming. This makes it a perfect fit for those that just don't want to spend the time or the energy on the grooming process. Or, this breed may be a good fit for those without the physical dexterity to handle the grooming - i.e. the physically disabled or elderly. You can brush the coat on a weekly basis, if you like, to keep the excess hair from getting into your home and on your furniture. But this dog truly doesn't shed that much, so it's a quick chore to take care of. The toy Manchester Terrier sheds even less if that's a concern for you. To keep your Manchester Terrier healthy, you will want to check their ears often and keep them clean and free of any infections or obstructions. If you notice anything that's out of the ordinary, it's best to check with your veterinarian to be sure that it's nothing more serious. Bathing this dog isn't something you'll need to do on a regular basis, just on occasion when they've gotten a hold of something less desirable. You might want to become wary if your Manchester Terrier has gotten a bath and still smells bad - that can be a sign of bacteria infections that need medical intervention. Always check with your vet if something doesn't seem right. The vet will want to look at the dog's mouth, ears, and nose to be sure that nothing else is going on. If you should let your Manchester Terrier wander around in nature, you will want to make sure they are getting checked for ticks and fleas when they come back home. If you do notice anything in their paws, ears, or coat, you will want to talk with the vet about handling that situation.
Exercise

The Manchester Terrier is another dog breed that does like to get as much exercise as possible during the day. In order to sate their hunger for activity, it will work best for you to bring this dog on regular walks with you each day. If you have a trail or park in the area that allows dogs to be off their leash, this will be even better. The Manchester Terrier likes to run around off their leash and will be able to keep up with you - even if you can't keep up with it. If you're the type that enjoys running or biking, the Manchester Terrier will be able to run alongside you without any problems. They might need to have the level of activity built up over time (just like you), but once they get into shape, they're a great workout partner. The only problem you might have with the Manchester Terrier being off the leash is that they like to chase after things, so you might have troubles catching up to this dog if it finds something

interesting. If a Manchester Terrier is well-trained and in a secure area, having them off the leash shouldn't be a problem though.
Training

What most owners need to realize about the Manchester Terrier is that their high intelligence is going to cause them to act on higher levels than other dogs might. For example, instead of thinking that your dog is simply behaving badly, you want to start thinking of this behavior as 'rude.' This will help reestablish the idea of a pack order with the Manchester Terrier. To address this rudeness, you want to take charge of things in your dog's life so that they know that you are the one that is in control. This might mean that you are in charge of when they get fed, when they go outside, and other small things that your Manchester Terrier does during the day. By slowly taking control of their life, they begin to realize that you are the one that's at the top of the pack order, not them. This 'respect' sort of training method is generally quite effective for this particular breed because of their natural tendency to be territorial. The good news is that with their intelligence, they will be able to discern what certain words mean and what they should do in a response. For example, if you were to say 'Sit down' and you push them down repeatedly, they will make the connection between the sound and the action. Training for a Manchester Terrier needs to begin at a young age so that they are learning exactly what their place in the family is and what is expected of them. You will need to be firm with their training, consistent, and if you are taking them to obedience courses, you will need to make sure that you are keeping up with the lessons they have learned. This constant attention to what they are doing at all times will allow them to feel like you are in control, but also that you are protecting them. This creates a positive relationship between you and the dog, rather than an adversarial. When your Manchester Terrier has done something that you do not want them to do, you need to step in aggressively to show that the behavior is not tolerated. This might mean that you physically demonstrate your presence or that you raise your voice to indicate when you are upset. This is a breed that requires a lot of training initially, and thus a lot of attention when they are young. If you are unable to provide such attention, this may not be a breed that works for your lifestyle.

Maremma Sheepdogs

Aliases: Pastore Abruzzese, Italian Alpine Dog,Italian Mountain Dog, Abruzzese, Cane da Pastore, Italian Sheepdog, Maremmano-Abruzzese
Life Span:10-13 years, as much as 15 Litter Size:6-9 , average 8 puppies Group:Herding, AKC Herding, Working, Flock Guard Recognized By:CKC, FCI, UKC, ANKC, NZKC Color:White with occasional markings in ivory, yellow or orange around the head and ears. The nose is always dark; usually black.

Hair Length:Medium Size:Extra Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:25.5-29.5 inches (65-75cm) Male Weight:75-100 pounds (34-45kg) Female Height:23.5-27.5 inches (60-70cm) Female Weight:65 -90 pounds (30-41kg) Living Area:The Maremma was bred to live outdoors for months at a time in harsh mountainous conditions. They should live on farms and ranches with as much room to roam free as possible. They have an all-weather coat that once allowed them to sleep in the open. Most Maremmas will be perfectly happy sleeping outside if you decide that's how it will be, though they usually won't bother with the doghouse you so thoughtfully provided - they prefer to find their own spot to lie instead. Even rural homeowners who want to keep them as pets in large yards are not advised to do so. The Maremma is are absolutely not apartment dogs and are certain to go insane and eat the walls or something else as impressively destructive.
Description

This large, fluffy, white shepherding dog is native to the mountainous regions of the Apennine Mountains in the Italian region of Abruzzo. They are somewhat smaller than many similar

working dogs, but they make up for it with fierce determination and intelligence. In it's native Italy, the Maremma Sheep Dog is well known for its endurance. Males and females are both quite strong - more than capable of resisting you and a few friends if they really want to. They tend to form partnerships with humans rather than bow to being man's servant. What Maremmas lack in bulk, they also make up for in hair: great billowing mounds of it in the heat of summer. They are not very well adapted to heat. Being smart, they usually lie down in the shade near a water source and refuse to move when it's too warm. They've been bred for 2,000 to be fierce and smart guard dogs. They will not take kindly to anyone trying to tease themselves or their families, and they feel they're in the best position to make that decision, no matter what you think. The Maremma Sheepdog can be quite fierce, given that they were bred to defend against human robbers and wolves. Though not typically aggressive, they are very defensive. Though not terribly affectionate, they do get intimate with their families very much on their own terms. This usually involves leaning, pawing and nuzzling. They are fiercely loyal and this trait increases with age. This guarding instinct often means there's a constant barrage of barking to alert all potential threats that he or she is on duty and no one in your household is to be trifled with.
Coat Description

Thick and white. There is a significant undercoat that requires regular maintenance or dreadlocks develop - especially in moist environments. The Maremma's fur actually helps keep the dog cool, so it is very important not to cut the hair close in the summer. Shedding events can be significant in a household environment.
History

Bred in the Apennine Mountains of East Central Italy, there were once two separate breeds of dog that were adapted just a bit differently to accommodate different altitudes. Today's breed is actually a hybridisation of the two, as decided in the 1950s. From "the Italian Alps" of the Apennine Mountains of East Central Italy, this working dog is bred for the very specific purpose of individual herding villages high in the hills. The Maremma is related to several other types of European mountain dogs and is thought to have descended from a common ancestor during the Roman Era. Like many of the other mountain dogs, the Maremma was bred large enough to defend flocks against both wolves and human thieves. The breed was not imported to the United States until the 1970s, though it now has many devotees. They are more common in the UK, though still rare in even sub-urban areas for obvious reasons.

Temperament

A fierce defender of life and property, this rather intelligent dog spends much of its time being very cheerfully methodical and thoughtful, while slow to anger. These dogs are proud and usually consider themselves something of a partner. They don't tend to be particularly affectionate, but are sure to be loyal. The key characteristic of their training is dealing with the breed's general indifference to what you want. Training can be rather demanding for this reason. They have no respect for people who can't make up their mind, being very contemplative themselves. Though quite intelligent, they are just intelligent enough to question orders mush of the time and just do what they think is best. This can be rather vexing, depending upon your dog's judgement. However, in working situations, they usually do know what's best as far as sheep and their own safety is concerned. Indeed, they take their jobs very seriously once they get the idea that's what they're supposed to do and enjoy. Fundamentally, they are guard dogs and that means anyone or anything that wants to mess with what your dog considers His or Hers. Though not quick to anger, the Maremma can nonetheless be very imposing to anyone who doesn't belong. Though not overly affectionate, the Maremma will bond very tightly with his or her human family. This often takes the form of people herding, but may also include leaning and pawing. Regardless of the form it takes, affection is always on the dog's terms - not yours.
Health Problems

Despite being a large dog, they are not prone to the congenital defects that plague many of the more popular large breeds. As they age, their noses may change colour, but this is normal and not a cause for alarm. A couple of problems are Lifestyle related:
Hip and joint disorders: Usually as a result of far too many calories, many Maremmas are placed on a low calorie and low protein Diet to keep from putting too much stress on the connective tissues.

Bloat: They should be fed in two small meals during the day to avoid this twisting of the stomach that's a consequence of eating too much, too fast. Grooming

Because of so much thick, white hair designed to keep the Maremma warm in the mountains, you'll need to brush your dog's hair a lot unless you want his or her fur to become a mass of matted dreadlocks or let them stay outside in the weather all the time.

The coat is ideally suited to resist weather and regular rolls in the dirt help keep the coat from matting on dogs that live outside all the time with their flocks. Some dogs have a finer-haired coat than others, and those are especially prone to getting terminal tangles. Maremmas that live outside and tend a flock usually don't need to have their claws trimmed, but a regular inspection for their dewclaws is very important to keep them from growing into their feet. Since any resistance to such inspection could be problematic in the extreme. It is vital that you get your dog used to regular inspections and grooming when he or she is a puppy. If fleas or ticks besiege your sheepdog, you can treat him or her with commercially available insecticides, but you'll need to be careful how you administer the treatment. Because they have so much fur, dips and sprays are usually applied in far higher quantities than necessary or healthful. The type of treatments that are applied directly to the skin may actually require you to shave a small spot on the back of the neck so you can actually find some skin. Using combing to keep flea populations down is not an option because there are is simply too much hair to hide in. The shedding season occurs in the late spring and late summer with the spring shed being the more significant of the two. Given how much hair this dog produces, the shedding process can be extraordinary, with fluffs of white hair falling off like a bear. Sometimes they'll rub themselves against rocks or trees to try and assist the process, like bears. A doubling of your already regular combings during this time is a good idea to help prevent matting and turning your house into a single mass of white fuzz. If your dog is going au-natural, he or she is going to look a bit ugly for awhile.
Exercise

To say the Maremma Sheepdog needs exercise is an understatement. They absolutely require not only the freedom to run around, but also psychologically, they need to be masters of their own destiny and, that includes a rather large range. Like a polar bear, they are territorial and really suffer if they don't have a fairly large outdoor tract to call their own. Walking on a leash will not be enough, and all the dog's nervous energy will be directed back into behaviour that you probably won't be too impressed with. They're not the sort of dog that takes off running all the time, or chasing sticks, but they do like to have a nice, steady stream of activity at all times. Giving them a job of herding animals usually gives them the right amount and type of exercise.
Training

Your new pup needs a job, and it's up to you to get him or her ready. The first two years of your Maremma's development are crucially important in bringing up a dog that will make an effective guard dog for livestock. They've been successfully used with Llamas, Alpaccas and goats as well as sheep. They will eventually take well to herd training and loves keeping a careful eye on things. Ideally, one already has a well-trained dog that can teach the other one. Their intelligence and imperious

temperament makes them generally unwilling to carry out your wishes. They like to decide things for themselves. The trick with herding is often to get them to really enjoy bossing the flock around instead of you, making the first 18 months a critical time in your Maremma puppy's development. It takes about 24 months to become a full-fledged herder. During that time, the dog will become more and more possessive of the flock and the humans. Real training begins with short sessions at about 4 months. Those who do want to keep a Maremma as a pet will be more interested in housebreaking and how they act in the yard. Housebreaking is surprisingly easy most often - they are clean dogs by nature and can be rapidly crate trained. They are first and foremost guard dogs that will need to have their protectiveness channelled into something productive. Even when fully trained, you will need to avoid "dangerous" situations that most dogs would be just fine with. You must socialize your dog with as many people on his or her territory as possible. Though it is recommended they at least have a large yard to run around in, even large yards are in danger of being escaped from, either through digging or jumping. These are very strong and determined dogs and require a great deal of fencing if they get a yen to wander. As such, unless you'll be breeding them, it is highly advised you have male dogs altered. Either way, the housebound Maremma will herd the human members of the flock for lack of sheep. Generally the Maremma is not recommended as a pet because it is so difficult to train up, being so proud. The key is to remain firm and consistent with your training and have everyone in the house do so, too.

Mastiffs
Aliases: English Mastiff, Old English Mastiff
Life Span:between 10 and 12 years. Litter Size:between 2 and 5 puppies. Group: Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:fawn, apricot, or brindle Hair Length:Short Size:Extra Large

Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:30 inches Male Weight:175-200 pounds Female Height: 27 1/2 inches Female Weight:175-200 pounds Living Area:The Mastiff does need a minimal amount of exercise. A small fenced yard is sufficient. They are relatively inactive indoors and therefore a small living space is fine. However, they are large animals and the comfort of both the dog and the family should be taken into consideration. A larger living space may be more comfortable for both. It is really preference for the owner. If there is no yard for the animal, they should be exercised daily. Another thing to consider with the Mastiff is that they do slobber excessively after eating and drinking and also just throughout the day. They will shake their heads and the slobber will go flying. This can make for an untidy living space where furniture, walls, and clothing are constantly being covered in drool. This dog can live outdoors in temperate climate, but does prefer to be indoors with the family. They do not do well in warm, hot, or humid climates. They prefer cooler weather. This makes them excellent dogs for locations that temperatures do not fluctuate much and remain moderately cool to warm.
Description

The Mastiff is a large, massive breed with a symmetrical well knit frame. Their stature gives off the impression of dignity and grandeur. The dog should be slightly longer in body than it stands in height and should come from depth of body and not length in leg. They are to be heavy boned with a well developed muscular structure. The slightly arched neck is extremely muscular and powerful. It should be of medium length. The well rounded chest is to be deep and wide and let down between the forelegs. The shoulders also display the strong muscular stature and should be moderately sloping. The forelegs are straight and strong and set wide apart. The hind legs are broad and muscular with well developed second thighs. The eyes are set wide apart and are of medium size. They are never to be too prominent. The ears are small, rounded, and v-shaped at the tip. The ears are proportionally small for the head. They should be set widely apart on the highest part of the head. The skull is to be broad and somewhat flattened between the ears. The forehead is slightly curved which shows off the marked wrinkles. These wrinkles become very distinct when the Mastiff is at attention. The muscles of the temples are well developed and the muscles of the cheeks are extremely powerful. The muzzle should be half the length of the skull dividing the head in to three parts. There is one for the foreface and two for the skull. The nose is broad and is always dark in color. The nostrils should be spread flat and never be turned up or pointed. The lips should diverge at obtuse angles.

The gait of the Mastiff is one that demonstrates extreme power and strength. The forelegs should have smooth reach while the hind legs should have drive. The legs are to move straight forward. To maintain balance as the dog increases speed from a walk to a trot, the legs will converge in towards a centre line. This allows for the maintenance of proper balance.
Coat Description

The outer coat of the Mastiff is course and straight and of a moderately short length. The undercoat is dense, short, and close-lying. The coat should not be long enough to create any fringe on the belly, tail, or legs. A long or wavy coat is considered to be a fault. The acceptable colors of Mastiff are fawn, apricot, or brindle. Brindle colored Mastiffs should have fawn or apricot as a background color and should be completely covered in very dark stripes. The muzzle, ears, and nose should be very dark in color, the blacker the better. A similarly dark color should be around the eye orbits and extend between them. A white patch on the chest is permitted.
History

The Pugnaces Britanniae was the progenitor to the Mastiff, however it is extinct now. The Mastiff name was probably came from the Anglo-Saxon word "masty" meaning "powerful." It is recognized as the oldest English breed. It is descended from the Molosser and the Alaunt. It is said to have been brought to Britain in the 6th century B.C. It was used for the blood sports of: bear-baiting, bull-baiting, dog fighting, and lion baiting. Throughout the history of the Mastiff, it has contributed to the development of several other breeds. There is some evidence that the Mastiff came to America on the Mayflower. However, documentation of the breed's existence in America was not until the late 1800's. However, in 1835 the Cruelty to Animals Act was passed in the United Kingdom and baiting of animals was prohibited. As a result, the Mastiff lost its popularity. There is a story about the Mastiff that proves its character. It is said that when Sir Peers Legh was wounded in the Battle of Agincourt that his Mastiff stood over him and protected him through the many hours of the battle.
Temperament

Despite its origin as a fighting dog the Mastiff that is common today is a gentle giant. This breed is highly intelligent and self confident. They are watchful and have the nature to protect and defend their families. They are highly dignified and coupled with a calm and docile personality, they make excellent family pets. The Mastiff is a breed that rarely barks. However, they do snore loudly and excessively drool. They are typically very well behaved with children, although because of their massive size, it is not recommended for them to be around toddlers. They are extremely good natured but quite large in size. They are eager to please and desire plenty of human companionship. They are not playful dogs but are quite happy just being close to the

family. They respond very well to gentle and patient training. They respond very poorly to fierce or physical punishment. It has been said that if you hit a Mastiff, you are asking for it. They can be aloof around strangers and other animals, so socialization from a young age is very important. They are highly protective of house, car, and family and they need to be shown that someone is safe before they allow them access to their family. When strangers are around, the Mastiff is known to stand between them and their family until they are shown that this person is safe. They are not known to attack strangers or intruders, but rather keep them at bay. Their level of suspiciousness can be minimized if there is proper and constant socialization during their puppyhood.
Health Problems hip dysplasia: Ball and joint problem of the hip that causes arthritic like symptoms.

Gastric torsion: Caused by exercising after excessive ingestion of food and water. Surgery is necessary. It can be helpful to feed the dog two or three smaller meals throughout the day rather than once a day. This can help prevent the Bloat or Gastric torsion.

obesity: Prone to weight gain. Osteosarcoma: Malignant bone cancer most commonly found in the knee. Grooming

Grooming for the Mastiff is quite minimal, however can be somewhat difficult due to its large size. Frequent brushing and occasional wiping down with a towel is recommended. Brushing is necessary daily because the Mastiff is a very heavy shedder. Their hair is coarse and short and often will come off in your hands as you are petting the dog. The hair also sticks to carpet, upholstery, and clothing. The dog should be bathed only when necessary. When bathing a specialty dog shampoo should be used. Human shampoo or liquid soap can cause skin irritation. It is also essential that the soap is rinsed thoroughly to reduce the chances of dryness and irritation. The Mastiff is a large dog and may be very difficult to bathe at home depending on how large the living space is. There are a couple of solutions for this. The dog can either be taken to a professional and they can be groomed and bathed there. The other option is that a waterless shampoo can be used to wash the dog and therefore you do not have to struggle with trying to get the dog into a small bath tub or shower. It is also essential that the dog's ears, eyes, and nails are also maintained. The ears should be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent ear mites and other infections. The eyes should be cleaned as well. The nails should be clipped when necessary. Be careful to not cut the quick as this can

cause bleeding and is somewhat painful. To make grooming easier for this massive breed it is important to start getting them used to it as young puppies. Make the dog stand while you brush and clip the nails. It may be a challenge to begin with but the dog should adjust to the grooming becoming a natural thing. It is important not to use force with this dog, but be patient. It may take longer, but it is important that the dog does not view these things as scary. Do no rush, it is alright to let the dog take some time to get used to things.
Exercise

The Mastiff is generally a lazy animal, but will be happier and healthier when exercised regularly. They should always be kept on a leash. They are not a very playful breed and this combined with the breed's laziness can make it difficult to find activities for the owner and dog to do together. This is a great dog for a relatively inactive person as a walk through the park or neighborhood is considered sufficient exercise. They do not do well in the heat and so it is important that the dog is not over exercised when the weather is warmer. Exercise for young puppies is important. It is hard to find the right balance though. It is essential that they are exercised to keep their weight down and develop a lean and health dog. However, if they are over exercised it can be very damaging to their soft growing joints, ligaments, and joints. As adults they require a little more exercise and the concern for the joints and ligaments will have been reduced or eliminated. Larger breeds are always more difficult to balance the proper amount of exercise.
Training

Training the Mastiff can be a somewhat difficult process. They do tend to have a mind of their own and will try to dominate the process. Therefore it is essential to prove to the dog early on that you are the boss and that you mean the things that you say. This is done best through patient, consistent, but firm training. One of the most essential elements for training the Mastiff is socialization. They are excellent watchdogs and guard dogs and therefore become very protective of their owners or families. It is essential that the dog is socialized from a very young age to try and reduce the tendency to become overly protective against strangers. This can be done by taking the dog to new places and meeting new people. It is essential for the owner to show the dog that the other person is safe and acceptable by being friendly and welcoming. The Mastiff can be a very dominant dog around other animals, especially dogs of their same sex. However, this too can be minimized through socialization. They are gentle-giants today, but were originally bred to be fighting dogs and therefore those tendencies may come out every now and again. The Mastiff is not an agility dog and does not really like to be playful. However, they do follow obedience training moderately well. Despite their ability to pick up on obedience training, they have a very low to moderate ability for problem solving.

Miniature Australian Shepherds

Aliases: Toy Australian Shepherd, Mini Aussie, Tea Cup Australian Shepherd
Life Span:12-14 years Litter Size:2-6 puppies Group:Herding

Recognized By:APRI Color:red/liver merle, blue merle, black, and red/liver solid colors with white markings on the face, chest and legs. All eyes colors including mixed eye colors and black or liver skin pigment colors are acceptable depending on coat color. Hair Length:Medium Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:13-18 inches (33-46 cm) Male Weight:20-40 pounds (9-18 kg) Female Height:13-18 inches (33-46 cm) Female Weight:20-40 pounds (9-18 kg) Living Area:indoor with a large yard for exercise and daily structured activities.
Description

The Miniature Australian Shepherd is almost identical in appearance to the standard or full sized Australian Shepherd in everything but size. The Miniature Australian Shepherd is actually less than 18 inches tall (46 cm) at the withers when full grown, and there is also a smaller version of the breed known as a Toy Australian Shepherd which must be less than 14 inches or (36 cm) when fully grown. A still smaller variety known as the Tea Cup must be less than 12 pounds when fully grown. The Miniature Australian Shepherd is an athletic dog that should appear solid and sturdy without appearing stocky. They have a medium length straight coat that can have a slight wave but never a curl. The coat is double with a somewhat thick and coarse outer coat covering a soft, downy inner coat. The outer coat is not coarse feeling but is rather smooth to the touch. The body is longer than the dog is tall at the shoulders, and the ribcage and chest is moderately developed. The topline is very straight from the withers to the hips. The legs are straight and the feet are

slightly arched with the back legs having a well defined stifle that gives the dog its ready to jump into action appearance. The neck is in proportion to the body and flows naturally into the powerful shoulders. The head is carried high and level when walking but often carried lower when working livestock. The muzzle is tapered and there is a well defined stop between the muzzle and the eyes. The eyes may be different colors including blue, brown, amber and flecked but are always slightly almond shaped and very clear and alert looking. The ears are carried high on the head and are full triangles with slightly rounded tips. The top one quarter to one half of the ear should fold forward and ears with no fold or ears that don't stay erect are considered faults in show dogs. The legs and lower body are covered with slightly longer hair known as furnishings. The Miniature Australian Shepherds are either born with a very short, stubby tail known as a natural bobtail, or the tail in docked when they are a few days old. In some countries docking is prohibited so the dogs may be seen with natural tails that are still shorter than other Collie breeds.
Coat Description

The double coat is of medium length and is very thick and full without giving the appearance of being fluffy. The hair is longer on the ruff, legs and rump and may be slightly wavy but never curly or kinky.
History

The Miniature Australian Shepherd is not a cross between an Australian Shepherd and another breed, it was actually developed in the late1960's, mid 1970's by breeding the smallest of the Australian Shepherds. This constant breeding back to the smallest of the litters produced a consistently small breed that is even being further reduced in size to the toy variety. Although the Australian Shepherd originated in Australia as a herding and working dog, the Miniature Australian Shepherd was bred first in the United States. This was largely in response to the dog owners desire for a well behaved herding type dog with the coat variations found in the Miniature Australian Shepherd that would be more suited to smaller living spaces and yards in cities. In many areas the Miniature Australian Shepherd is still used as a working breed in competitions, and many people feel that the term miniature is a bit misleading as the smaller dogs are only miniature in size to the standard, and are not petite and tiny like other "miniature" breeds.
Temperament

Just like the standard Australian Shepherd, the Miniature Australian Shepherd is a working dog. They are typically a very easy going dog that loves to be with people and all types of animals, although they will naturally try to herd almost anything they see including children, people and other pets. Usually the breed is not dog aggressive at all and will stay in a house very comfortably with cats and even smaller pets, although socialization is important with any dog

and other types of pets. The Miniature Australian Shepherd is a great companion dog for other breeds of dogs, even those that tend to be somewhat dominant. The Miniature Australian Shepherd is a good watchdog and will bark whenever someone unknown approaches. They are not yappy like some of the miniature breeds and can easily and quickly be taught not to bark or to stop barking on command. One of the difference in the Miniature Australian Shepherd and other herding or working dogs is that it is quiet when herding and does not yap or bark at the animals. Overall the Miniature Australian Shepherd is a wonderful dog with children of all ages. They are very active dogs requiring lots of daily exercise and they will run and play with children as long as the kids are busy. While a smaller dog they are not delicate and can handle romping and average types of play with kids of all ages. Since they are very compliant dogs and love to please the family they will listen to children and respond to commands from even the youngest kids. The Miniature Australian Shepherd loves to be with the family, and is not recommended for families where it will be left alone for long periods of time. They are very well behaved dogs in the house and will quickly find a quiet out of the way spot to watch the family. They also love to play and be the center of attention when everyone is busy in the house. Training the Miniature Australian Shepherd is very easy and they can learn to do amazingly complex tricks with ease. They also love to be the center of attention and are naturally very playful and almost puppy-like in their behavior right up until they are very senior dogs. They are very affectionate with family members and seem to need to be physically close to the family without being demanding of attention. Since the breed is a working dog they do need to have something to do every day, even if it is just go for a walk and go through a training routine. When not challenged or stimulated mentally they will turn their energy and natural curiosity into more destructive behaviors such as chewing and finding out how to get into cupboards and other areas of the house. With attention, lots of exercise and proper training and stimulation this is very rarely an issue with the breed. Miniature Australian Shepherds enjoy traveling and going new places. They are somewhat wary of new people and will often skirt around the edges of gatherings until they feel comfortable with the people. Socialization will help minimize this behavior, but it is important to never force the dog to interact as this can lead to distrust and fear of strangers or even of family members.
Health Problems

There are few Health concerns with the Miniature Australian Shepherd other than conditions of the eyes and joints. As with most of the Collie breeds Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA) a general term for many types of eye disorders as well as PRA, Progressive Retinal Atrophy may be present. In cases where a merle colored male and female are crossed the puppies may carry a recessive gene for Deafness and blindness, so merles should never be crossed with other merles. Canine hip dysplasia is also found in the breed although breeders are working to eliminate this problem.

Grooming

The Miniature Australian Shepherd has an easy to care for coat that is not as problematic as some of the double coated breeds. The thicker, slightly coarse and straight outer coat is simple to brush using a pin brush or stiff bristle brush. Always start by grooming the outer coat in the direction of growth which is slightly back and down. After this is completed, start at the shoulders and push the longer hair forward, exposing the dense, downy undercoat, brush this again the direction of growth, moving down the back and sides. Pay particular attention to the hair round the neck, the furnishings on the legs and the hair on the rump as these can be areas for matting and tangling. Typically the Miniature Australian Shepherd is an average shedder however they will shed their coats heavily in the spring and fall. During these times the inner coat will come out in chunks or clumps and can become very matted. Daily brushing will both help speed up the shedding as well as prevent these mats from forming. If mats do form in the hair that is being shed they may need to be cut out using blunt ended scissors. The Miniature Australian Shepherd should not be clipped or trimmed for show and typically should not require any type of clipping or trimming. Puppies have shorter coats that will not reach their full adult coat length until about a year of age. The Miniature Australian Shepherd has natural oils in the hair to keep the dog dry and warm even in cold or damp conditions so it is not advisable to bathe this breed unless absolutely necessary. Dry dog powder is often used between wet baths just to help remove dirt from the hair.
Exercise

This breed is ideal for an active family that loves to walk, hike, run and play. These small dogs need a large amount of both physical and mental exercise to stay alert and well behaved in all conditions. A Miniature Australian Shepherd is considered a high exercise breed but doesn't need to be busy all the time as long as the exercise if regular and long enough in duration and challenge. Just taking these dogs for a walk is not likely to give them the stimulation that they need to get a mental workout, but having them work through an obstacle course, taking them on new routes where the are seeing and smelling new things as well as having them work through some training exercises will usually provide the right balance of physical and mental work. The Miniature Australian Shepherd is an ideal dog for obedience, agility and herding trials. Many people trail they Miniature Australian Shepherds in one of these events and take them to various events in their local communities or even in larger more national competitions and events. These wonderfully behaved and very social dogs make ideal event dogs as they rarely fight or show any signs of dog aggression.
Training

The Miniature Australian Shepherd is really a treat to train. They are one of the very easiest dogs to housetrain and are extremely neat and clean. Even as puppies they naturally stay beside their owners and quickly learn what pleases the family. The very best possible training for these dogs

in positive rewards in the form of verbal praise and petting. They will work as hard as they can to keep people in the family happy and love to be given commands and tasks to do. They also love to think and solve problems are great at games of hide and seek with favorite toys. The breed has an amazing ability for word recognition and therefore can be easily taught a huge number of tricks and training exercises. They excel at agility, obedience and trial type competitions including herding. The breed does need socialization in their training to avoid being somewhat nervous of new people or places. A Miniature Australian Shepherd should never be treated harshly or spoken to in a rough tone of voice as they can become timid and cowed if treated poorly. The Miniature Australian Shepherd is very loyal to their family and will bond very quickly with all people in their house. They often do not do well if re-homed or left with people they don't know. If you do have to leave your Miniature Australian Shepherd with someone else, be sure to introduce the dog and the family first and allow the dog to get to know them to help with the transition.

Miniature Bull Terriers

Aliases: English Bull Terrier
Life Span:11-14 years Litter Size:Average of 5 puppies Group:Mastiff, Terrier (AKC)

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Any color is acceptable, as long as there are few markings on the coat. Hair Length:Short Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:10-14 in (25-33 cm) Male Weight:24-33 lbs (11-15 kg) Female Height:10-14 in (25-33 cm) Female Weight:24-33 lbs (11-15 kg)

Living Area:Miniature Bull Terriers do better in suburban or urban environments, as long as they have some way of getting daily exercise. A suburban house with a fenced yard is best for this, but an urban apartment can also work if you're willing to give the dog daily walks. Rural or sparsely-populated suburban areas will do as well, but it's important to keep the dog indoors and to carefully supervise it when outside in order to avoid fights with other animals. Because of the Miniature Bull Terrier's short coat, it's inadvisable to keep this breed in colder climates. The dog will have no way to deal with colder weather and exercising it will become much more difficult.
Description

The Miniature Bull Terrier is a compact, tough dog, bred for combat and for its menacing appearance. The dogs are muscular and wiry, with spiky ears and a spiky coat that can sometimes prickle to the touch. They often have blanched-white coats with a few dark spots, making them easily identifiable and sometimes comical in appearance--but that comical appearance belies an extremely aggressive and energetic heart--yet a playful one, and a loyal one if you can earn the dog's trust.
Coat Description

The Miniature Bull Terrier's coat should be extremely short. It has no wave or curl to it and is never smooth. The Miniature Bull Terrier's coat is usually unmarked, although markings on the head are considered acceptable by AKC standards.
History

The Miniature Bull Terrier's aggressiveness is unsurprising when you consider its origins. The breed arose during the early 1800s in professional dog fighting circles, when unscrupulous breeders decided to attempt the creation of a breed that would fight with all the aggressiveness of the Bulldog, but with the additional speed, reflexes, and intelligence of terrier breeds. The resulting cross of Bulldogs, English Terriers and other miscellaneous breeds resulted in the Standard Bull Terrier. Despite the meticulous (and sinister) work put into its breeding, the Standard Bull Terrier was not as successful in the fighting ring as its creators had imagined. But later in the nineteenth century, the breed took out a new lease on life as excellent guard and watchdogs, as their aggressiveness and protective instincts made them ideal for attacking and frightening intruders without actually killing. Even in this capacity, however, the Standard Bull Terrier often proved too much for owners who didn't reckon on the breed's capacity for violence, and the Miniature Bull Terrier was created to retain all of the excellent watchdog capacities of the breed while at the same time reducing its size to make it more manageable for handlers and trainers.

Temperament

The Miniature Bull Terrier can be an aggressive, dog who won't hesitate to attack as severely as possible--if he or she doesn't like you. If he or she does, however, the Miniature Bull Terrier is a fun-loving, good-natured, and even sweet companion, capable of infinite loyalty and protectiveness toward his or her masters. This isn't to say that the Miniature Bull Terrier is the perfect dog. In fact, the breed can be quite a handful due to its boundless energy and playfulness, which can easily turn dangerous. Biting, jumping, scratching, and other extremely antisocial behaviors can be the norm if an excited Miniature Bull Terrier hasn't been carefully trained and handled. The Miniature Bull Terrier was bred for fighting, and he or she doesn't view his or her behavior as a problem--it's simply what the dog was born to do. But you'll likely view it as a problem, and consistent training needs to be employed in order to eliminate or reduce these kinds of behaviors so that they don't become an annoyance--or worse, an outright legal liability. Miniature Bull Terriers can do well with strangers if they're patiently socialized to accept people outside of their immediate family. Friends and other people should be consistently introduced as a vital part of the dog's training, and any negative reactions should be firmly put down before they get out of control. With enough time and enough exposure, the Miniature Bull Terrier won't be a social problem, and will recognize and respond well to non-threatening behavior toward its masters. But the dog will still recognize and respond aggressively to threatening behavior, making it an excellent watchdog and protector. Children need to be careful around the Miniature Bull Terrier. Although the Miniature Bull Terrier won't naturally attack or behave threateningly toward children, it does have a high level of energy and can unintentionally bite or harm a child. Children need to be advised to be careful around this breed, and should be instructed in some basic training methods in order to keep the dog calm during play. If children can't control themselves around the Miniature Bull Terrier, or if they're too prone to excite the dog, they shouldn't be allowed to play with this breed unsupervised. Animals are another story altogether. The male Miniature Bull Terrier has extreme problems with other male dogs, and will not hesitate to fight at the first opportunity. Female dogs are less of a problem, but fighting and territorial struggles still happen on a regular basis. Other household animals (cats, rodents, and other pets) are also problems for the Miniature Bull Terrier. Although socialization to these other animals is possible, it probably won't happen without a great deal of training, and it probably won't happen without a few injuries on either side. For all of these reasons, the Minature Bull Terrier is not a good dog to introduce into households with lots of pets. Despite all of these violent tendencies, the Miniature Bull Terrier does have its friendly, playful side, and countless owners and breeders have noted the breed's clownish and friendly side. When the dogs don't feel themselves or their masters to be threatened, they often enjoy tricks, ridiculous behavior, or other playful acts. It's this side of this problematic dog's personality that

has endeared it to thousands of people worldwide and that makes the dog an ideal companion--to those who know how to deal with the breed, of course.
Health Problems

Although the Miniature Bull Terrier tends to suffer from comparatively few acquired diseases, the breed is subject to a few problematic genetic conditions. Congenital Deafness, OCD, and zinc deficiencies are among the most common genetic problems that a Miniature Bull Terrier can suffer. hip dysplasia and other joint problems have been known in older members of the breed.
Grooming

The Miniature Bull Terrier's short coat makes it easy to groom. Occasional passes (maybe once a week) with a grooming glove over the dog's short coat will be sufficient to remove any dead hair and to reduce shedding concerns. Bathing the Miniature Bull Terrier isn't often necessary (and can be a challenge, given the dog's rambunctious personality), but can be done without any risk to the dog if dirt or mud become serious issues. Nail trimming and other grooming issues should only be done when necessary, and an occasional visit to a vet or professional groomer can take care of this for you. One grooming-related issue faced by the Miniature Bull Terrier is the overeating issue. Miniature Bull Terriers are prone to overeat, which ruins their appearance and puts their health at risk. It's important to monitor your dog's diet closely in order to keep him or her looking his or her best, and to cut back on feedings when you notice evidence of overeating or bloating.
Exercise

Although the Miniature Bull Terrier is on the smaller side as far as dogs go, it still requires a decent amount of exercise every day in order to get out some of its nervous terrier energy. What's more, daily exercise will help solve one of the minor health problems of the breed--its tendency toward overeating and obesity. You should regulate the dog's diet for this purpose, of course, but it's also important to give your dog regular exercise in order to work off any excess weight that he or she acquires during particularly strenuous training sessions that require plenty of treats. Two walks a day will help a great deal in both respects, but the best solution is always to allow your Miniature Bull Terrier to spend some time in a fenced yard every day. This lets the Miniature Bull Terrier exercise some of its instincts a little better and play more energetically, while it still allows you to supervise your dog and keep him or her from wandering off in pursuit of some rival animal. And supervision is a vital consideration with Miniature Bull Terriers, simply because of their aggressiveness. Left unchecked, the Miniature Bull Terrier will fight with other dogs at the drop of a hat. This may be good exercise, but it can easily lead to injuries for your dog (or for the other dog) and is extremely inappropriate behavior. So when walking your Miniature Bull Terrier, keep him or her on the leash, and when giving your dog yard exercise, make sure you keep him or her within a fence or, if that's not an option, make sure a leash is kept handy.

Even with all of these possible problems taken into account, the Miniature Bull Terrier can be an aggressive playmate during exercise. Make sure that you start training early, and make sure to strongly discourage aggressive or vicious play behavior--which is quite likely to occur in unstructured play or exercise sessions if you aren't careful.
Training

Training a Miniature Bull Terrier requires commitment. The Miniature Bull Terrier combines two of the worst personality traits that dogs can have--all the aggressiveness of a mastiff with all the stubbornness and nervousness of a terrier--and both of these can easily lead to extreme problems with training your dog. But if left untrained, the Miniature Bull Terrier's personality issues make the dog not merely frustrating, but actually a potential danger to you, your friends, or other animals in your area. So training, although not a walk in the park, is also not an option. The key to effective training for any dog is to start early, and the Bull Terrier is no exception to this pattern. The earlier you begin to socialize and train your dog, the fewer bad behavior patterns you have to eliminate and the more opportunity you have to get your dog used to proper behavior. With the Miniature Bull Terrier, early training is somewhat complicated by the dog's youthful exuberance, energy, and borderline destructiveness, which can make the Miniature Bull Terrier more interested in play than in the work of serious obedience training. Be patient, firm, and commanding and your efforts will eventually pay off--but not without a great deal of aggravation, most likely. Positive training is usually a better method for dog training than negative training, but your options for rewarding a Miniature Bull Terrier are somewhat limited by the breed's tendency to overeat. You can't give food rewards very frequently, if at all, or else you run the risk of exposing your dog to some health problems. Since consistency is vital when training a Miniature Bull Terrier, it's best to use food rewards extremely sparingly. If you offer treats for every little piece of obedience, your dog will expect you to do this all the time, and your training program will run into a wall once it becomes a health risk to reward your dog with food. Instead, use praise, affection, and other methods to reward good behavior, and reserve food for only once or twice per training session, usually right at the end as a reward for exceptionally good progress. Training should focus on socialization above all. The Miniature Bull Terrier's protectiveness and aggressiveness are the most likely problems the breed will face when encountering other people or other animals, and the earlier you start socialization training, the better equipped your dog will be to handle these unique situations (which invariably make his or her instinct for protection flare up.) Gradual introduction of other animals into the Miniature Bull Terrier's vicinity and frequent introduction of other people (to desensitize the dog to strangers) are both good policies to follow, and despite the problems you'll face along the way, both policies will eventually pay off.

Miniature Pinschers

Aliases: Min Pin, Zwergpinscher

Life Span:15 years Litter Size:1-3 puppies Group:Terrier/ACK Toy Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Solid Red, Stag Red, Black, Chocolate, Blue Hair Length:Short Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:10-12 1/2 inches Male Weight:8-10 pounds Female Height:10-11 inches Female Weight:8-9 pounds Living Area:Miniature Pinschers are small dogs, but they do need some space. Because they are quite energetic, they will need a place to run off their energy. They are great escape artists, so your yard must be very secure, or they will find a way out. They do not handle temperature extremes well, so while they need a place to run for exercise, they should be indoor dogs. Miniature Pinschers love toys, so they will be quite happy indoors with some things to amuse them. However, they like to chew and they may be prone to chewing on things that are not supposed to be their toys. Most experts on this breed recommend that they not be left alone at home unsupervised simply because they are so curious and apt to get into things. You'll need a room or dog kennel where the dog can stay when you're away from home.
Description

The Miniature Pinscher is a dog that looks like a smaller version of the Doberman Pinscher breed. However, the two breeds are unrelated, and, in fact, the Miniature Pinscher breed is older than the Doberman Pinscher. They are small muscular dogs with square proportions and docked tails. They have tapering narrow heads with a prominent foreface that balances with the skull. Their ears are set high on the head and stand erect; they are sometimes docked. Their eyes are

oval and dark in color, with a clear and bright appearance. Their skulls are somewhat flat and taper into the strong looking muzzle. Their noses are always black, except in chocolates, which have self colored noses. Their teeth meet in a scissors bite. The Miniature Pinscher's neck is well proportioned to the body, and slightly arched. Their backs slope slightly to the rear but are otherwise flat. Their tails are set high and held erect and are docked. Their legs are strong and muscular and they have small, catlike feet. The Miniature Pinscher's gait is very high stepping. They run in a free and easy manner, with their forelegs and hind legs moving in parallel. They drive smoothly and strongly from the rear with their heads held high.
Coat Description

The Min Pin's coat is smooth, hard and short. They are silky and lustrous looking. Hair is the same length all over the body. The following colors are found in the Miniature Pinscher:
Solid Red - Coat should be a rich, dark red. Stag Red - Red with black hairs intermingling throughout the coat.

Black - with rust red markings on the cheeks, lower jaw, lips, throat, above eyes and chest, lower half of forelegs, inside of hind legs and vent region and black stripes on the toes.

Chocolate - with same red markings as blacks, except for the stripes on the toes.

Blue coats are allowed in the UK but not in the US. White markings are a fault in the show ring. History

The Miniature Pinscher is a German Breed, unrelated to the Doberman Pinscher, though they look nearly identical in features. The breed was developed from terrier breeds, including the German Pinscher and Italian Greyhound for the purpose of hunting rats in stables. The Dachshund was also used to help breed in the small size. (Pinscher means terrier in German.) In fact, the Doberman Pinscher was bred by Louis Doberman in 1890, and was designed to look like the Miniature Pinscher. For this reason, we know that the two breeds do share common ancestors, including the German Pinscher.

These dogs have been pictured in paintings for centuries, but actual documentation on the breed is only about 200 years old. Development of the breed outside of Germany began in 1895, when the German Pinscher Klub was formed and created the first breed standard. The Miniature Pinscher first came to the US in 1919, and was first registered with the AKC in 1929.
Temperament

The Min Pin is a sweet and gentle dog, but they are prone to be demanding. Be certain that you don't spoil your dog, or he may become very difficult to live with. They are also very stubborn, so early training is essential. They are sturdy and proud and are quite courageous; often being described as a big dog in a little dog's body. They have a lot of energy and spirit, and are not couch potato dogs. They will do well with children, provided the children are well behaved and don't pester the dog. It's important that your children understand that this dog will need his space, and also to understand that, because of his size, he is somewhat easily injured. Min Pins don't act like toy dogs, so they often seem sturdier than they really are. Min Pins can sometimes be aggressive with other dogs, so if you're planning to have other dogs in the home, be certain that they're introduced to the Min Pin at an early age. They are typically quite good with other types of pets in the home. This is a moderately protective dog; they will certainly bark to alert you. They are fairly suspicious of strangers by nature, but with proper training at a young age, they will do quite well with visitors in your home once they known that you are comfortable with them. But, be careful of training this dog to bark as a method of alarm; they are prone to excessive barking. This is a loyal and fun dog to have around. However, because they are very self-absorbed, willful and demanding by nature; early and consistent training is critical. However, they are also quite intelligent and eager to learn. Once your dominance is established, they will be eager to please you and quick to learn. Because they are small and easy to take care of, this is a perfect companion dog for a single person. Min Pins are said to be puppies for life. They are extremely playful and fun, but they are also very curious and prone to get into things and use things for toys that were not meant to be toys, and that may even be hazardous. It's important that your house be "puppy proofed" for this dog, and they will chew on almost anything. They are also prone to climbing, especially when they are unsupervised. For this reason, you must take care with the things that you leave on your counter tops and tables, too.
Health Problems

Overall, the Miniature Pinscher is a very healthy breed, with no specific Health issues common. However, they are not good at regulating their own food intake, so it's important that you not over feed them. They can become prone to obesity.

Obesity in dogs creates some of the same problems as in humans. They can be more prone to Heart disease and joint problems and, overall, will have a shorter life expectancy. With breeds that are prone to obesity, such as the Min Pin, it may be wise not to feed treats. If the dog never grows accustomed to having a treat, he will be far less likely to beg you for them, and hence, will not be as likely to become overweight. Min Pins are very popular, and because of their size, there are many breeders. But this doesn't mean that every breeder is a good one. Reputable breeders will work hard to breed out deficiencies by not Breeding any dog that has shown signs of genetic or Health Problems. Breeders that are not reputable, however, will breed any dog, and are more likely to replicate genetic problems in their puppies. Before you purchase a puppy, ask questions about the lineage of the puppy. In addition, be certain that you purchase your puppy from a breeder that has socialized him, rather than keeping him a kennel all the time. Puppies that have not been socialized will be far more difficult to train, which is especially a concern in this already challenging breed. In addition, puppies that have lived only in a kennel or crate for the first 8 weeks of their lives are often very timid and skittish about even moving around your home. Look for a puppy that is playful and confident. If they appear overly fearful, they are not likely to be easy to work with once you get them home.
Grooming

This is a very easy breed to groom. They are average shedders, but their short hair is very easy to keep looking nice. Brush them with a firmly bristled brush a couple of times a week, and use a damp towel occasionally to wipe off excess hair. Originally, Min Pins were required to have docked tails and ears in order to compete in the show ring. Today, however docked ears are not mandatory, though docked tails are still required. Min Pins require just a small amount of food and should be fed high quality dry food for their optimum health. These dogs can become overweight, and dry dog food will help keep their weight under control. Dry food also helps prevent dental problems. This dog will likely do better with two small meals each day, rather than one large one.
Exercise

Miniature Pinschers need exercise. They will be happy with a small yard for running and playing or with a daily walk with their owners. Since this breed is prone to obesity, making sure that your dog gets regular exercise is even more important. However, it's also important to remember that they do not handle very hot or very cold temperatures very well, so outdoor exercise must be kept short in duration during extremes in weather.

Training

The Miniature Pinscher requires firm and consistent training, but once trained, they are a great companion dog. From an early age, they must understand that you are the "alpha dog", or they will be quite happy to run your household. Once they respect you as the alpha dog, they are very loyal and easy to please. Miniature Pinschers like to amuse you. So, during the course of training, don't ever laugh when he misbehaves, or the behavior will be set for life. You must be firm and serious when correcting him to avoid sending mixed signals. And, while your corrections must be firm and consistent, they should not be overly harsh, or he'll become scared and skittish. Once your dog learns that training is no nonsense time, he'll likely enjoy it, since he will be eager to learn.

Miniature Pinschers require socialization at an early age, to prevent them from being wary of human strangers and to prevent them from being aggressive with other dogs. Puppy classes, where the puppies are introduced to each other and learn to share toys and water bowls would be perfect for this breed. Crate training works well for housebreaking the Min Pin. Because this breed can be stubborn and dominant, and because their accidents are easy to miss due to their size, it's important to be very persistent in house breaking them. If they have an accident that goes unnoticed, they will believe that going to the bathroom in the house is acceptable, and the habit will be nearly impossible to break. Keeping your puppy in his crate unless you are actively interacting with him will help ensure that there are no accidents. Puppies should not be allowed to roam the house unsupervised until they are consistently house trained. It's wise to leave your Min Pin in his crate when you leave the house even after he's house trained, to prevent him from getting into something that could be dangerous for him. Some owners of the Miniature Pinscher choose to paper train their dogs. Since they are not good in extreme temperatures, paper training prevents the dog from having to go outdoors when it is very cold or hot. This breed likes to bark, so part of your early training should include teaching them when barking is appropriate and when it is not. They are also great escape artists, prone to digging under fences or jumping over them. Training in this area will be helpful, but your best bet is just to ensure that your fence is very secure and not to leave them outdoors unsupervised for long periods of time.

Miniature Poodles
Aliases: Caniche, Pudle
Life Span:between 12 and 15 years, although some tend to live longer with a healthier lifestyle

Litter Size:4 - 8 puppies, average 6 puppies Group:Gun Dog, AKC Non Sporting Group Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:cream, silver, white, apricot, red, white, black, brown, blue, gray, and cafe au lait. Hair Length:Medium Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:11 - 15 inches (28-38 cm.) Male Weight:15 - 17 pounds (7 - 8 kg.) Female Height:11 - 15 inches (28-38 cm.) Female Weight:15 - 17 pounds (7 - 8 kg.) Living Area:The miniature poodle is an ideal choice for virtually any location. They are perfect for small homes or apartments simply because they are such small dogs. You will also find that they are okay with a range of yard sizes, especially since they like to remain indoors rather than outdoors for any length of time, especially if you remain indoors more often. Do protect them with a fence as they do like to explore their neighborhood if untrained and allowed to. This dog will not do well if left outdoors all of the time.
Description

The Poodle is a fun loving dog known for its dressed up look. You will find that there are several ways that they can be groomed, which helps to define this breed's characteristics. The Pet Clip may be used for dog's that have a short hair length. The English Saddle or Continental clip is also used with the back half of the body shaved, rings are left around the feet and the tail and tails will have pom poms. Another feature that defines these dogs is their coat's curl. Some will have a very loose curly look while others have a corded look to them. Colors range widely. The tail on a miniature poodle is set high. It is often docked at about half of its size. The dog's ears are also a tell tale sign of their breed. They are long and flat with a wide look to them. They generally lay down, on their cheeks and close to the head. Generally, the poodle will have dark colored eyes with black and brown being the most common found. Usually, their eyes will have a bright look to them, giving a show of their happy go lucky temperament. They have a squared off body, with a long head and a neck that is just slightly arched.

The miniature poodle is defined as a miniature by its height and coloring. Other varieties of poodle, include the toy (which is the smallest of poodles), and the standard size which is much larger.
Coat Description

The miniature poodle has a curly or corded coat. This is not fur, but a coat of hair. They do need help with maintaining their coats and that means a good amount of brushing and clipping on the owner's part. The coat is thick and can easily become matted. Grooming styles can be traditional or can be simple, sheered looks. Because of their unique curl, they are often brushed out to keep the curls from matting. The miniature poodle is a variety of colors and often is a mixture of them. Some of the most common are those that are solid, and these are the only permissible colors for shows. Their colors including cream, silver, white, apricot, red, white, black, brown, blue, gray, and cafe au lait.
History

The poodle has been in history for at least the last 400 years mainly in Western Europe. There are conflicted beliefs about where the poodle was developed including France, Denmark and in Germany, but the French have won the title for being the country of origin in most record books. The dog is thought to be the descendents of the French water dog and the Hungarian water hound. They have various types of jobs and duties. They served as gun dogs and later worked as retrievers of waterfowl. They also were used as hunters especially in water situations. Indeed, they were used heavily for their intelligence as circus dogs and were trained to do various activities. The miniature poodle is bred down from the standard poodle size.
Temperament

While the poodle is well known for his look, there are other characteristics that make it just as enjoyable and should be the reason why you invest in this dog. The poodle is a highly enjoyable pet, with lots of character and plenty of cheer in him. They are very intelligent dogs and with that comes a very good amount of training ability. You will also find that they can be temperamental. A good sign of this is when playing with or spending time with someone other than him, the poodle is likely to become overly sensitive and either try to interact or sulk. They enjoy being the center of attention and being their master's true companion. You will find that the miniature poodle makes a great addition to training shows and events simply because he likes to learn to do tricks. They want to entertain and have fun, and making their master happy is a great way for them to do that. You will find too that when he is able to make you happy, it is funny and adorable to be around. In terms of other dogs and children, the poodle will adjust well. While he likes to be the center of

attention, he is, beyond anything else, more than willing to play with anyone that wants to play with him. On the other hand, some miniature poodles will show signs that they are less than inviting of this type of attention. Some are very nervous around people they do not know and other animals. Some are sensitive to the time that you spend with others, too. Some poodles can be high maintenance like animals because of this. In an effort to help them to adjust better to those around them, do socialize these dogs as young as possible. This will help them to open up to strangers and help them to feel more at ease when someone new is around them. The good news is that the poodle is more than willing to learn, at any age. In addition, the miniature poodle is more than willing to protect what is his. He makes a good watchdog, being vocal when necessary to ward off those that come near to him. Yet, they are not necessarily aggressive dogs. While they will bark, and bark quite a bit, they are not likely to attack anyone.
Health Problems

Poodles are a breed that has been around a very long time and that makes them likely to need some medical attention. They do have a history of having genetic diseases passed down by generations. Some of those include the following:
Progressive Retinal Atrophy: manifests as night blindness, slowly progresses to total blindness.

Epilepsy: a neurological seizure disorder. There is no test for this.

Deafness: Congenital Deafness can be a problem.

Allergies: Some will Show in skin conditions that the dogs will have, Allergies to shampoos is common as well as color reinforcers. Some skin conditions can happen due to the misuse of clippers against their sensitive skin.

diabetes: evident in many dogs

 Heart disease: Although a genetic condition, this is likely to be minimized with a good Diet and care.

Premature Gray: Mostly seen in the brown Miniature Poodle, the coloring may become gray earlier than it should.

IMHA: Immune Mediated Hemolytic Anemia, especially in dogs with a poor source of quality food.

Grooming

Perhaps the hardest part to owning a miniature poodle is having the time and the skill to groom these dogs. They do require quite a bit of grooming. They will first need you to bath them often, often weekly. They like to be clean but they do need help in maintaining themselves. They will also need to be clipped every other month at the least, although some will allow the poodle's coat to grow much longer, this is not often safe. The hair of the coat will become matted especially if not brushed often, which is not only a problematic situation for the groomer, but also does pull at their skin and makes them uncomfortable. The poodle's ears also need to be cared for. You will find mites and ear hair in them often times, which must be removed. Hair here needs to be removed for comfort and cleanliness. Clips are generally used as well. The most traditional are those that are used to help reduce the weight of the dog's coat. This allowed them to swim better and provides some protection for joints and the organs of the pet from having to overwork as well as from the cold. Most will provide their dog's with a simple lamb clip, though. This is the clipping in which they are sheered the same length throughout their bodies. This is easier and much easier for the every day owner of the dog to care for. Other grooming that is needed involves the teeth which should be brushed often. Because the poodle does not shed, or sheds very little, this is not necessarily a problem for those that have allergies. In fact, the coat of a miniature poodle is not a fur but is hair, similar to the hair that humans have. For this reason, you do need to provide him a jacket or sweater during winter months to remain warm outdoors.
Exercise

The miniature poodle is a great choice for many reasons, including this one. As a highly energetic dog, they are likely to demand at least some physical attention and activity by you. They do like to play either with you or with children. They will even enjoy themselves with a dog their own size and age. You should take note in their physical activity, though. Many of the health conditions they are predisposed to face are brought on by a poor diet and lack of exercise.

The miniature poodle is not likely to be demanding of you, though. They will take the exercise they are given and will truly appreciate the activities you do with them, but they will not beg for it. The poodle is a great swimmer and they often enjoy the exercise that a pool or water body can give to them. They are good for walks too, but their short legs are not necessarily capable of keeping up with a big bike or a long term run next to your side. An important part of enjoying your poodle will be allowing him to run. Providing a fenced in area is a great opportunity because running without a leash allows them to truly enjoy themselves. And, playing catch with them or spending your time chasing them will make it even more enjoyable for them. The miniature poodle will be in good spirits if given the opportunity to play with you and get a good amount of exercise. They are not lazy dogs that want to lie around all day, but would rather enjoy time running and playing.
Training

The miniature poodle is a great find for many reasons including their intelligence. They have served as being some of the best and smartest dogs available and for that they have a long history of training. Often, the dog's will do best with positive, rewarding training because they enjoy pleasing their masters and often are more than willing to do anything to showcase that love that they have. As mentioned, they are highly trainable and this has played a significant role in their lives and history. Being highly trained circus dogs made them an enjoyable yet hard working dog. They loved every minute of it and they do enjoy being trained now. It often seems they like a challenge and are willing to learn what you teach and what makes you happy. You will find that the miniature poodle of today has many great talents. This includes being a watch dog, being the trick performer, being very obedient and even competitively so. They are very agile dogs even for their small size and light weight. You will find that they are excellent at learning to retrieve. You can teach them to do nearly anything. When you provide these dogs with a happy, companionship based life, it is likely that they will learn anything you want them to.

Miniature Schnauzers
Aliases: Zwergschnauzer
Life Span:12-14 years; though they do not show their age until much later on in years. Litter Size:3-6 puppies

Group:Terrier Group

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Salt and Pepper, Black and Silver, and Black. The following colors are not recognized, and are disqualified in the ring: White, Chocolate, and Parti-Colored, as it is believed other breeds were mixed in to achieve these colors. Hair Length:Medium Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:from 12-14 inches at the withers Male Weight:11-20 lbs Female Height:from 12-14 inches at the withers Female Weight:11-20 lbs Living Area:The Miniature Schnauzer adapts easy to city living, though it is also at home in the country. They should never be allowed off leash, as they can travel a fair distance without tiring. A fenced- in yard is ideal. Though they can live easily outside in temperate climates, they emotionally need to be inside with their family.
Description

The Miniature Schnauzer is a small robust dog, nearly square in proportion. This dog is literally made up of rectangles. The head is rectangular in shape, which is accentuated by the long, thick beard, and heavy eyebrows. The muzzle is parallel to, and as long as, the topskull and ending in a blunt wedge. His teeth should meet in a scissors bite, with no signs of an overbite. The eyes should be deep-set, small, dark brown, and oval shaped. Ears can either be cropped, or left natural. If cropped, they should be identical in appearance, set high up on the skull. When left natural, they should be small, v-shaped and folded close to the skull. In the UK, it is illegal to crop ears and dock tails, making for a complete opposite appearance than what is normally found in the US. The body should be sturdily built, with a strong arched neck that blends seamlessly into the shoulders. The shoulders themselves should be well muscled, yet well laid back to make a vertical line from the tip of the shoulder to the elbows. The ribs are well sprung, extending well back to the loin; the belly should not be tucked up. The backline is straight, slighting declining from the withers to the tail. The tail is usually docked around the third vertebrae. It must be tall

enough to be seen over the backline; it is to be carried high and erect. Height at the withers should equal in length from chest to buttocks. Any suggestion of toyishness will be disqualified in the ring; this breed is meant to be small and compact, not frail. The front legs should be straight, long, and muscular, with elbows held close to the body; there should also be long heavy feathering on the legs. The hindquarters are also well-muscular. There should be enough angulation for the hocks to extend well beyond the tail. The feet are small and round, with arched toes. Dewclaws are removed at 2-3 days of age.
Coat Description

The Miniature Schnauzer's coat is made up of two layers: a hard wiry outer coat, and a soft undercoat. The undercoat ranges between light gray and black. The muzzle (or beard), legs, and eyebrows are kept longer than the rest of the coat, giving him the characteristic markings of a Schnauzer.
History

Believed to have been derived from breeding the Standard Schnauzer with a small Affenpinscher or possibly Poodle, the intention was to retain the same hunting skills as the Standard that could also be a house pet. Originating in the early 1800s in Germany as a farm dog and ratter, it wasn't until 1899 that Germany recognized it as being a separate breed from the Standard Schnauzer. It wasn't until 1933 that the AKC separated the Miniature and Standard Schnauzer into two different breeds. They are also the only Schnauzer remaining in the Terrier Group. Following World War II, they gained popularity in the United States, becoming one of the most popular breeds in America.
Temperament

Many people are unaware of the two different sides of a Miniature Schnauzer. They can go from being energetic and out-of-control, to snuggling up in your lap on the couch. It is a breed much loved by the older generation, as they can be very gentle. Without being told, they recognize when to be gentle and calm around children, and when it's okay to run around and play with an older crowd. They are known to be hard-headed, and stubborn, but deep down they are mischievous little goofballs. They are a very energetic and playful dog that can play for hours on end. If they are unable to get enough exercise, they can become a very difficult breed to handle. It is also known for Miniature Schnauzers to seek a dominant role when meeting other dogs, even those larger than themselves. This may often start a fight, without necessarily intending to do so. Though they usually get along with most dogs, the key is socialization at a young age; he must be exposed to many breeds and sizes of dogs.

Miniature Schnauzers are very vocal dogs, known to bark at even the slightest of noises; In this sense, they make wonderful watchdogs. They are highly loyal to their family, and keep very protective of them. It is common for the Miniature Schnauzer to be a talker; they will growl and carry on as if carrying on a conversation with themselves. A personal favorite is when they let out a deep, long "roo-roo", usually in defiance when they have been told to do something that they do not want to do. Overall, the Miniature Schnauzer is friendly, loving, and eager to please. They make excellent companions and even better family pets.
Health Problems

Major Health concerns for the Miniature Schnauzer include Congenital Cataracts, a genetic disorder affecting both eyes resulting in blindness over a period of time; Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA), another genetic eye disorder in which a retina deteriorates resulting in blindness; liver diseases; bladder stones; anaphylactic reactions to vaccinations; diabetes; pancreatitis; skin disorders; and von Willebrands disease. They are also at high risk for Heart Murmurs, urinary infections, Allergies, obesity, anemia, Cushings disease, and Schnauzer Comedone Syndrome, also known as Schnauzer bumps.
Grooming

Before purchasing a Miniature Schnauzer, you should consider what it takes to maintaining their coat. Seeing as they do not shed, weekly brushing is needed to prevent the hair from matting. Before bathing and clipping, they need to be thoroughly brushed in case of any mat-buildups. Brushing in an upward direction will help to avoid missing any mats. First, start by brushing the leg hair in an upward direction, starting from the top and working your way down. Be careful not to forget the armpits, belly hair, and in between the toes, as these areas tend to mat up easily. If you do find a mat, place your hand between the mat and skin to minimize the discomfort of removing the mat. The eyebrows are to be combed forward, while the beard should be combed from the flat of the muzzle down and the underneath combed forwards. It is a good idea to run a brush down their back to help stimulate the skin, and remove any buildup of dirt and natural oils. Depending on how dirty your Schnauzer gets, they should only be bathed when necessary and prior to clipping. Over bathing can result in their body producing more oils than necessary to help replace those that have been washed away, leaving the coat dirty and greasy. Be careful not to get any water or shampoo in their eyes, ears or mouth; A tearless shampoo is recommended. Putting cotton balls in the ears while bathing can prevent water entering the ear canal and causing an infection. Be sure to get all of the shampoo out of his coat and face, as if left behind will cause dry, flaky skin. The ears should be checked on a regular basis for signs of infection. If the ears are overly hairy, a pair of hemostats or tweezers can be used to pull out any unnecessary hair. Brown waxy buildup, and/or redness, may be signs of an infection. An ear cleaner from your vet will help in flushing

out the ear. Dogs with uncropped ears are at higher risk for ear infections due to lack of air flow. It is recommended brushing your Miniature Schnauzer's teeth on a weekly basis. Bacteria, produced by excess tarter buildup, can lead to permanent heart and liver damage; problems which already plague the breed. Toys that promote dental stimulation, such as cow hooves, bones, and Greenies are just a few that should be left availble to them when supervised. Gently massage the teeth and gums in a circular motion with a toothbrush.. Do not use toothpaste made for humans, as it is toxic to dogs. It is best to use dog-friendly brushes and flavored toothpaste that can be bough at any local pet store. The standard coat for a Miniature Schnauzer of show quality is hard, wiry, and coarse. This is achieved by plucking the head, neck, ears, chest, body, and tail. This process is called stripping, in which the undercoat and dead outer coat is removed by hand. It is a difficult and time consuming project to take on for first time owner. Many breeders and handlers are experienced at stripping, and are able to instruct on how to do it properly. For most pet quality Schnauzers, due to clipping, it is only a matter of time in which only the soft undercoat will remain. They are often kept this way due to the ease in the up keep of the coat. It is recommended taking them to a professional groomer every 4-6 weeks. There they are also able to trim nails, clean out ears, and if necessary, express anal glands. The more courageous owners will take on all the grooming themselves to prevent numerous trips to the groomers. It also helps create a bond between you and your dog.
Exercise

Regular exercise is a must for all Miniature Schnauzers. They gain weight very easily, which can result in major health problems. With the proper diet and exercise, these can be avoided. Exercise requirements can be met with a short walk, or a good game of toss in the yard. They enjoy playing off-leash outdoors, where they can track and follow game trails, well away from busy traffic and other unsafe environments. This breed of dog loves interactive play with his family, such as playing fetch or tug-of-war. Mind-stimulating toys are a great outlet for this breed when they are left alone, or the family is busy. They tend to have a naughty streak in them when they are left unattended for long periods of time, as they do get bored quite easily.
Training

Training a Miniature Schnauzer requires consistency and an understanding of being alpha in the family pack. They are a very intelligent breed of dog that must be taught at a young age that they are not the dominant figure in the household. Most Miniature Schnauzers will be stubborn, hardheaded, manipulative, and assertive to get what they want. Through constant repetitions, they will learn that you mean what you say, and there's nothing they can do about. They do however, require a lot of attention and affection on a regular basis as the breed tends to become depressed if neglected.

A method called NILIF, or Nothing In Life Is Free, works amazingly well with this stubborn breed. It is a non-confrontational way to prevent dominance problems in dominant breeds. The dog must perform to get anything they want; he must earn everything, resulting in you keeping a dominant position. This will result in a much happier dog, as they will no longer be confused where they stand in the pack. Because of the breed's intelligence, they learn very quickly from a confident, but fair handler. More and more are seen in the obedience ring, as their loyalty and willingness to please outshines in this sport. They also enjoy doing agility; a challenging sport that requires much concentration and enthusiasm, a perfect match for this breed. Due to their breeding, Miniature Schnauzers are known to chase and kill small fleeing creatures (cats, rabbits, mice, etc.). They are also known to act aggressive when other people and animals approach them. They normally aren't fighters (towards other dogs), though will stand up for himself if necessary. Both of these problems must be curtailed at an early age, or you may end up with a suspicious and aggressive animal.

Neapolitan Mastiffs
Aliases: Mastino Napoletano, Neo Mastiff, Mastin Napolitan, Mastino, Mastini

Life Span:8 to 10 years Litter Size: 6-12; 7 is average. Group:Working

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:gray, blue, black, mahogany and tawny (any lighter and darker shades of these colors are allowed. Hair Length:Short Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:26 to 30 inches Male Weight:132-154 lbs

Female Height:24- 27 inches normal. Female Weight:110-132 lbs Living Area:This is a dog that does well indoor if the home is dog proofed and saliva proofed. Neos can live outdoors even in the winter time if there is access to a good doghouse with a lot of bedding. However, summertime can present some breathing issues especially since the Neo has a short muzzle. Owners must ensure shade and access to fresh water. Yet if the weather becomes extreme, the Neo should be moved indoor especially in humid and low air quality days.
Description

An ancient breed, rediscovered in Italy in the 1940's, the Neapolitan Mastiff is a heavy-boned, massive, impressive dog bred for use as a guard and defender of owner and property. His loose skin is all over his entire body, and is abundant with hanging wrinkles and folds on the head and a voluminous dewlap. His intense, piercing stare and regal stoicisms are enough to ward off an intruder; however, with its owner it is highly loyal and affectionate. The Neo mastiff is supposed to be imposingly massive and rectangular in shape. Since this is a head breed, the headpiece must also be massive. Toplines of cranium and the muzzle must be parallel. The face is made up of heavy wrinkles and folds. Required folds are those extending from the outside margin of the eyelids to the dewlap, and from under the lower lids to the outer edges of the lips. The essence of the Neapolitan is his bestial appearance along with its astounding head and imposing size and attitude. The characteristic movement is rolling and lumbering, not elegant or show. Many Neo owners say that the gait is like that of a lion and/or a big cat-slow but fluid. The same gene that causes loose skin is the same that causes the loose joints that give the Neo its noted gait.
Coat Description

The coat is short, dense and one length with an overall smoothness over the body. The coat should be straight with no waves or curls and should be no longer than 1 inch. No fringe is allowed anywhere. Solid coats of gray (otherwise known as blue), black, mahogany and tawny (any lighter and darker shades of these colors are allowed). Brindling is allowed in all colors but it must be tan . When present, brindling must be tan, which is called reverse brindle. There may be solid white markings on the chest, throat area from chin to chest, underside of the body, sheath, backs of the pasterns, and on the toes. There may be white hairs at the back of the wrists. Any other white is a disqualifying fault for the dog and the dog should never be used for breeding.
History

The Neapolitan Mastiff is a breed that was reconstructed in the 1940s by Piero Scanziani and other lovers of the Mastini. Scanziani came across the breed in Vesuvius, Italy when it was on the brink of extinction. He would learn that the breed was steeped in 4000 years of historical presence that seemingly originated with the breeding of large, massive dogs by the Sumerians and the Mesopotamians. Throughout history, the Neapolitan Mastiff was used by the Romans in

wartime, later as a hunter of deer and wild boar, and fighters of wild animals in the circus and in arenas as gladiators, but always remaining true to its heritage with an inherent talent as a guard dog especially in the Roman villas of Campania. Many of the early Mastini were depicted in many artifacts, statues, and carvings in which the artist depicts the massive head, skin folds especially an exaggerated dewlap, and cropped ears. Even after the fall of the Romans, the Neapolitan Mastiff remained in the region making the slopes of Vesuvius its home and offering companionship and protection to its people. The Neapolitan Mastiff made its way to America by the way of Italian immigrants and the late Mr. Michael Sotille, Sr. In 1991, further promoting of the breed by US Neapolitan Mastiff Club (USNMC) led the Neapolitan Mastiff to be accepted into the AKC as the 152nd breed.
Temperament

The Neapolitan Mastiff is a breed that is wary of strangers but is tolerant of friends or acquaintances of the owner/family. The temperament should be steady and self-confident, loyal, courageous, vigilant, and intelligent with an air of regality, but not aggressive. The appearance of the facial expression should be fierce in so much to deter an intruder by his looks alone. The breed is forever watchful with an intense focus. Crate training is suggested as well as Mastino-proofing your house. The crate will not only keep your Neapolitan safe, it will also keep your valuables from being accidentally broken by the lumbering bump of a Neo in passing. Since the Neo can be a "Velcro" dog that loves to be with their owner at all times, it is suggested to use the crate to foster some individuality and independence or else the Neo may develop separation anxiety. A frantic, massive dog can be utterly destructive and could potentially harm itself. Being that the Neo has an inherent nature to protect its owner; it has an excellent balance of even temperament to deal with social situations. If Mastini are socialized at an early age, many of them will come to adore children and will not purposely hurt them. However, in play or sleep, owners must remember that the Neo is a massively large dog that may not know their weight or force. Children should always be supervised. If properly socialized around other animals, large or small, the Neos will be highly tolerant even though they do like to chase. It is recommended not to maintain the same sex because To keep a stable temperament, make sure to expose a young puppy to as many new people, places, and noise in a positive setting, so that the Mastini will accept new experiences and situations.
Health Problems

Neapolitans are a hardy breed and the main Health concern is "cherry eyes." Cherry Eye is a condition caused when the gland of the third eyelid of the dog becomes inflamed, swells up, and if it pops out of place it will become more inflamed, swollen and irritated such that it becomes bloody and ulcerated, and can cover 1/2 of the eye of the dog. If this occurs then the cherry eye is

referred to as follicular conjunctivitis. In the Neos, it is recommended to remove the gland because of the massive wrinkles and excessive weight of the additional facial skin that folding down or any other cherry eye surgical correction procedure will only have to be repeated with the condition worsening each occasion. Despite the wrinkles and loose skin, the Neos should not have skin problems. In the first year of growth, many Neos grow very quickly and can develop panostetis, Growing pains. Also, many Neos are misdiagnosed with hip dysplasia; even though they can be prone to it. Many breeders attest to the fact that young mastini have a degree of looseness in the joints which attributes to the signature lumbering gait. Talk to your breeder and your veterinarian about these sorts of problems. Other health issues are Bloat, a mysterious illness that is usually fatal for large breeds; excessive Exercise can lead to over heating; and rough play can lead to accidents, joint injuries, and various precarious situations due to the clumsiness of a Neo puppy. Mastinos should be fed quality food with no by-products, no whole ground yellow corn, minimal to no wheat. The food should not be high in protein because it can lead to kidney failure and no extraordinary amounts of calcium or calcium supplementation which can lead to joint issues. Owners should know that an adult Neo can easily eat 8-10 cups a day. Puppies should eat 2-3 times a day and an adult 1-2 times a day.
Grooming

Owners must be prepared to deal with drool. Neos drool when they are excited, eating, drinking, or some (because of the massive folds of facial skin) drool constantly. Many Neo owners keep towels handy to keep the dewlap and folds dry and infection free. Many owners also state that the Mastinos have a distinctive odor which may be classified as woodsy. Grooming will not eliminate the scent. However, weekly brushing, ear, eye, teeth, and skin care are highly recommended. This is an average shedding breed; however, very easy to care for. The ears and tail are normally cropped.
Exercise

Due to the clumsiness of the Neo puppy, no extraneous exercise or rough play to include jumping, Frisbee chasing, tug of war should be used. Because of the high pain tolerance found in the Neo, unsuspected joint injuries that may cause permanent damage due to non-treatment can occur. However, walks are fine and yard runs are ok as long as they are tolerated well. Stopping such exercise prior to the dog tiring out also prevents injuries as well. Over exercise in a breed that grows so fast and so massively large can also result in hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and other joint diseases that are usually genetic. Owners must realize that the Neo continues to grow and change up to the age of three.

Training

Training this dog should be started at an early age to avoid dominance issues. The handler should always remain firm and consistent but not overly corrective or negative. Basic obedience is a must at about 4 months because this puppy will already weigh about 40 to 60 lbs.; therefore, imagine at 6-10 months you will be dealing with 100+ lb dog if you wait to start training basic commands. This breed is highly intelligent and will quickly learn all of the commands; however, the biggest issue is the time in which it will take for the Neo to complete the task if it so desires. Their willfulness does not diminish their love and protective nature of their owner however. The Neapolitan Mastiff should not participate in protection training or bite work because it possesses a natural protective temperament that does not need to be expounded upon or brought even further to the surface.

Newfoundlands
Aliases: Newfie
Life Span:10 years Litter Size:8-10 puppies Group:working, Mastiff

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:black, brown , gray and black and white (Landseer) Hair Length:Medium Size:Extra Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:27-29 inches (69-74cm) Male Weight:130-150 pounds (59-68 kg) Female Height:25-27 inches (63-69cm) Female Weight:100-120 pounds (45-54kg) Living Area:Indoors or outdoors, prefer a small yard, does not tolerate heat well.

Description

The Newfoundland is a large, solid looking dog that is both powerful and athletic at the same time. They have a large head and a very expressive face that seems to study everything and everyone before making a move or a decision. Despite their huge size this breed is a wonderful housedog and will quickly adjust to owner routines and smaller spaces. They are very careful in small spaces and are not known to be rambunctious or high-strung, rather they are very relaxed and calm dogs. The head is very large and somewhat rounded in shape. The muzzle is square and proportional to the head with a definite stop between the muzzle and the eyes. They eyes are somewhat low on the face and are dark brown, with expressive and every mobile eyebrows that give a look of intelligence and sometimes sorrow to the breed. The ears are triangular in shape and hang down the sides of the head folded over forwards. The ears usually go no further down the side of the face than the cheeks. The neck is short and sturdy, balancing the head on the massive and wide shoulders. The body is square and solid with a deep chest and ribcage that makes this dog an ideal swimmer and rescue dog. The legs are straight and muscular while not appearing too large or unbalanced. The feet of a Newfoundland are broad and webbed for both sure footing on land as well as an ability to easily move through water. The legs are positioned to the far corners of the body allowing for a very stable and square stance for the breed. The tail is long and hangs down to the hocks with a slight curl up at the end. The breed may carry the tail higher when in movement or when excited. The Newfoundland has a level topline and the overall appearance of the breed should be solid, powerful and heavy boned with a look of dignity and balance. The head should always be carried high in the air and the dogs should be confident and not timid or shy or aggressive in appearance.
Coat Description

The double coat is very thick and medium in length with the outer coat being straight to somewhat wavy. It is never curly or kinky. The ruff, tail and legs and underbelly have longer hair than the rest of the body. The hair on the face and ears is short and very soft to the touch. The undercoat of the Newfoundland has a wooly texture and, like the outer coat, has natural protection from the water and dirt.
History

The Newfoundland breed was developed in Newfoundland, a province in Canada. They were likely developed from the Labrador dogs, also a Canadian breed, crossing with the large breeds brought by the British and French, such as the Great Pyrenees and Tibetan Mastiffs. This is logical as the breed is similar in appearance to the Great Pyrenees but more like the Labrador in both swimming ability and coloration. Originally used as a fishing dog used to haul nets and lines into shore. In addition they were also used to retrieve things from the water that feel off the boats. Over time they developed into

excellent water rescue dogs and are still used for this today. The webbed feet and the heavy coat and skeletal structure of the breed made it large enough and strong enough to tolerate the icy Atlantic waters off the coast of Newfoundland. On land the dog was used to haul carts, protect the farmyard as well as provide companionship and as a pack dog on long treks. Since they are so devoted to their owners they rarely strayed away or left their owners side, making them ideal working dogs. As setters moved in and out of Newfoundland they took their dogs with them, and the breed is now relatively popular throughout Canada, the United States and most of Europe. Currently the Newfoundland is used mostly as a companion breed although they are currently active in search and rescue operations as well as obedience, draft and water trial events.
Temperament

The best way to describe the temperament of the Newfoundland is summed up in the word "outstanding". This breed is docile and calm, loving and patient yet also alert, intelligent and prepared to help the family in anyway, including placing itself between a potential danger and the people that the dog loves. They are not a barking breed but their sheer size often is enough to warn people not to come too close. This dog will become completely devoted to the family and often will not accept leaving the family or moving to a new home. They have been noted to grieve a pet or family member that is no longer present. The breed does very well with other dogs, even smaller breeds, although males may be more aggressive when females are present. The Newfoundland requires little socialization to quickly adapt to all types of pets including cats. They are so calm that it is not uncommon for cats to snuggle up to these huge shaggy dogs and sleep on or beside them. Newfoundlands are usually easy to train and will almost housetrain themselves even as very young puppies. Occasionally they can require somewhat repetitive training practices so each dog may need a slightly different program. They have a strong desire to keep owners happy and will often try to anticipate what is expected of them before owners even have to give a command. The sweet temperament of the Newfoundland makes it extremely sensitive to criticism or a harsh tone of voice and they should never be trained using any type of negative or harsh punishment. They are independent when needed and can tolerate some time alone provided they have regular contact with the family and lots of positive attention. The Newfoundland is an excellent family dog that has no end of patience with children. They will seem almost saintly as they put up with even very young kids in a loving, calm and relaxed manner. The Newfoundland also likes to spend time playing with older kids and is a great exploring companion, ensuring the children are safe. Since they love to swim a Newfie will take every possible opportunity to jump into water and may need to be kept on a leash if you don't want to have to deal with a huge, wet dog. They love to travel and are always ready for a ride in the car, although they usually require a seat to themselves.

Health Problems

The Newfoundland breed has the same general Health Problems that other large to giant breeds have. Careful selection of Breeding stock can prevent problems with most of these conditions. SAS or sub Aortic Stenosis, is a serious genetic disorder that can occur in the breed. Test puppies at 12 weeks as well as dogs before Breeding. Canine hip dysplasia, Gastric torsion, elbow dysplasia and eye problems should also be carefully monitored. Occasionally Epilepsy (seizure disorder) and von Willebrands Disease, a bleeding disorder can be found in the Newfoundland breed. These conditions can be managed although Newfoundlands with these conditions should not be allowed to reproduce.
Grooming

The Newfoundland is an average shedder throughout the year and does need regular grooming to keep the thick, dense double coat from hopelessly matting. Most breeders recommend at least four times per week that the dog be completely groomed with a stiff wire brush, grooming rake or long pin brush designed specifically for large size dogs. This regular grooming will keep debris and knots from becoming irritating or problematic. In the spring and fall this breed will completely shed out their thick undercoat. Known as "blowing" the coat, this shed is truly amazing in its sheer volume. It is not uncommon to remove a garbage bag or more of the soft, downy undercoat. In some areas this "wool" is made into a natural fabric similar to preparation of sheep wool. It is interesting to note that Newfoundlands that are kept indoors in regulated climates will not develop a full inner coat, therefore cutting down on year round and seasonal shedding. The Newfoundland has natural oil in the coat that keeps the inner and outer coat water resistant and somewhat dirt resistant. Avoid washing this dog whenever possible and use dry powder shampoo only when required. The more bathing that is done to the dog the more damage will occur to the hair and coat. Carefully check the ears for debris or waxy build up and carefully check the eyes for any sign of tearing that may indicate eye problems developing.
Exercise

The Newfoundland is a very calm breed that is prone to turning into a non-exercising dog if allowed. They will happily go with owners on walks or outside to explore, but they are not good at self-exercising. If there are other dogs present they are more likely to complete a bit of exercise but otherwise they will usually just find a comfortable place to lie down out of the heat or weather. Newfoundlands are prone to weight gain and do need to be exercised on a regular basis to prevent obesity and health concerns related to increased weight. Since they are a large and heavy dog fast runs and sprints are not as preferred as slower, longer jogs or brisk walks in cooler temperatures. They are not an extremely playful dog once they mature but some enjoy a short game of fetch. The Newfoundland does absolutely love to swim and will happily use any pond, pool or lake they can find to get out and go for a swim.

It is very important to watch for any signs of breathing problems of excessive drooling when exercising these dogs in warm weather. With their heavy, dense coats and massive size they are prone to heatstroke and need to be closely monitored. Provide lots of water and try to exercise lightly in the coolest possible times of the day during the summer months. Growing puppies should not be over-exercised as they may develop growth problems or OCD from too much strain on joints and cartilage during their developmental stages. A Newfoundland can take up to two years to fully mature so be cautious with their level of exercise at this time.
Training

The Newfoundland does best with slow paced, repetitive training that focuses on positive achievement. While not a rapid learner they will make steady progress and once they have mastered a command they will rarely if ever forget it. The Newfoundland is very sensitive to the owner or handlers tone of voice and should never be yelled at or punished during training. A simple "no" or removing attention for a few minutes is all that is needed to correct the breed. Since they are a very large dog, even as a puppy, it is important to provide them with the right type of area for training. They should be working on a floor that is carpeted or outside, never on highly slippery or polished surfaces. Remember that while puppies are growing they may be somewhat uncoordinated and clumsy and will need some additional time to get their bodies organized before they can sit, stand or lie down on command. Avoid rushing the puppy in commands or pushing or pulling on their legs or hips for any reason. When training the Newfoundland it is always easier to start very young before the puppy gets to full size. It is also critical to keep in mind that these dogs need to be kept out of the intense heat so try to restrict training periods to short periods of time in the cool of the day. They seem to learn best with three or more short training periods per day rather than one long training time. Always end training times with some positive interactions. This breed tends to bond very strongly with the whole family but typically learns best when taught the commands until they are mastered by one person rather than everyone in the family. Once trained this dog can easily be controlled by younger children once they have been taught how to work with the dog. Occasionally males can be somewhat aggressive to other males so early neutering is recommended for safety and temperament reasons.

Norfolk Terriers
Aliases: Norfolk Terrier
Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size:2-5 puppies with average litter size of 3 Group:Terrier, AKC Terrier

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:wheaten, red, black, tan and grizzle. Some white markings are seen in the breed but are not desirable in show dogs. Hair Length:Long, Medium Size:Toy/Small Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:10 inches (25cm) Male Weight:10-12 pounds (4 1/2-5 1/2kg) Female Height:10 inches (25cm) Female Weight:10-12 pounds (4 1/2-5 1/2kg) Living Area:A very adaptable breed the Norfolk terrier can do well in an apartment or a house with or without a yard. They will self-exercise indoors but still require regular walks and outings.
Description

In the beginning, the Norfolk terrier was raised to be a working dog. The breed, small enough to chase down even smaller vermin, is efficiently stocky enough to hold its own. A mere 10 to 12 inches (or approximately 25 centimeters) at the shoulder, its petite stature allowed for getting into and under the smallest of spaces, including burrows when necessary. At optimal health and condition, the dog will weigh in at 10-12 pounds (up to 5 1/2 kg). Males and females are of comparable size and stature, with females weighing only slightly less than males. No longer used for its original purpose, the dog makes a perfect small sized pet for homes with a limited amount of space. The wiry, waterproof coat of the Norfolk terrier comes in colors such as wheaten, black, red or grizzle and actually consists of two layers. A soft protective coating underneath becomes the hard, straight hair of the outer layer. The head, as well as the perky folded ears, have short hair that is smooth and gives way to expressive intelligent brown eyes. The ears are folded over and carried forward, giving a curious and intelligent expression to the fox-like face of the Norfolk. The terrier has noticeable whiskers and eyebrows that add to the various expressions this breed will exhibit. They have a sturdy looking body and well developed legs, making them solid little dogs rather than delicate in appearance. Although it has been common for the Norfolk terrier to be seen with a cropped tail, this is no longer a practice that many owners follow through with these days. In some places, the cropping of ears and tails of dogs that are not actually used for work is now forbidden. There is a good

amount of feathering on the front legs, lower line of the body and the hindquarters, adding a style and flair to the breed.
Coat Description

The coat of the Norfolk Terrier is coarse, and waterproof on the outside and dense and thick on the inner layer. The topcoat is very resistant to moisture as well as helps to protect the dog when going through dense brush or vegetation. The coat can be clipped and trimmed, but full clipping is not recommended. Only bath this dog when absolutely necessary as bathing will strip natural oils from the coat.
History

The Norfolk terrier, like its close relative the Norwich terrier, were bred for hunting rats and other vermin in farm areas and urban centers. They were developed in the Norfolk area of Great Britain in the early 1800's but were not official recognized by the Kennel Club until 1964 and by the American Kennel Club in 1979. Originally there Norfolk and the Norwich were considered one breed, but in the early 1930's breeders began separating the two different breeds based on their physical differences. The Norfolk was used as a fox bolting dog, trained to go into the caves and dens where foxes would hide during a hunt to get them back out into the chase. The Norfolk Terriers with their lower tail and dropping ears were less popular than the pricked ear Norwich variety and almost became extinct. The popularity of the Norfolk terrier is gradually increasing worldwide as these dogs become ideal for competitions and events requiring speed, agility and intelligence. They are avid hunters and chasers due to their history of being bred for these attributes, and these personality traits are still evident in the breed today.
Temperament

Ridding barns of rats and vermin require one to not only be agile but ever vigilant and plucky. Such is the case for the Norfolk terrier. Although hardly ever used for its original intention, the breed has never lost its perky and fearless outlook. While having a very up front attitude, these terriers are considered to have the softest of temperaments. Hardly the type to be outright aggressive, they thrive on human attention and love to be included. In the field, they worked as pack animals and therefore still want to be involved, making them great companions for households with children or older persons who can shower them with affection. Still akin to their instincts, the Norfolk terrier loves to play fetch and chase after small objects. Barking and digging are natural for them, although not commonly to a destructive end. The uneventful life goes against the very nature of this working class breed. They will do best living indoors but will require plenty of activity. In fact, they are likely to take in all the activity a 10 to 12 pound dog can handle. This may not amount to much for the average human being; however

activities should center on being interactive as one of the worst challenges for this breed is to be ignored.
Health Problems

In general, small breeds escape the Health worries that many larger dog breeds come up against such as hip dysplasia. Luckily, this is also the case with the Norfolk Terrier. While they should be screened regularly for any Health Problems, when there is a concern the most common genetic disorders run along the lines of MVD, mitral valve heart disease, Epilepsy and sometimes breathing problems. As with all breeds, table scraps should be avoided in order to maintain a happy, healthy weight.
Grooming

Grooming the Norfolk terrier is simple and easy however the breed does require grooming every other day to prevent knotting and tangling of the longer hairs on the bottom side of the body. They are average shedders and will have a heavier shed in the spring and fall, requiring extra grooming to keep the coat in good condition as well as to prevent excessive dog hairs left all over the furniture and carpets. There are a few basic tools required for grooming the Norfolk Terrier. A stiff bristle brush, slicker brush and a wide toothed grooming comb are the basics that are needed. Start by using the stiff bristle brush or wide toothed comb to brush the hair starting at the base of the neck and proceeding down the body. Always brush in the direction of hair growth, taking care to stop and detangle any areas that are knotted. The comb can be used first on the longer fringe hairs or furnishing along the back of the front and back legs as well as across the line of the stomach. Typically with daily or every other day grooming the process should only take a few minutes and will a great way to spend time with the dog. In addition to grooming the coat is it important to inspect the nails for any signs or chipping or breaking, and trim them regularly as needed. Use a good quality guillotene style dog nail trimmer or set of noticed scissors. Never use human nail trimmers as this will shatter the dogs nail. Check the teeth and use a finger sleeve or dog toothbrush to brush the Norfolk terriers teeth on a regular basis. This will help avoid costly descaling that has to be done by a vet plus it will ensure that your dog has excellent tooth retention and dental health even into their senior years.
Exercise

The Norfolk terrier is a remarkable breed of dog that enjoys a high level of exercise but can also tolerate a day or two of relaxation every now and again. They are eager to go out for a walk, run or a ride in the car to the park or for a hike. Many owners of Norfolk terriers enter these small dogs in various types of events as a form of both mental and physical exercise for the dogs. Two such events are flat racing and flyball. Flat racing for the Norfolk terrier involves a short course with no hurdles or obstacles while flyball relays consist of a dog jumping over at least four hurdles, then activating a flyball box pedal which shoots off a ball that must be retrieved. Upon recovering the ball, the dog must then turn around and jump back over the hurdles and make it to

the finish line. Lure coursing is where terriers chase after some form of artificial lure, such as a rat or rabbit. An earthdog trial is a go-to-ground type of exercise in which a Norfolk terrier will run through the course of a small, typically above ground wooden tunnel system while scenting a small rodent, such as a rat. The dog must then find his or her way to the rat, which is safely kept in a cage at all times, and either bark or scratch indicating they have found their quarry's location. Although there are time limits set for completion, this is a noncompetitive activity where owners can gauge their terrier's capacity for hunting. Remember that exercise doesn't have to be through competition. These dogs will enjoy a simple game of fetch, a romp in the yard with the kids or even to go on a nice stroll after dinner. They are great dogs for joggers and have boundless energy for those families with younger children.
Training

It may be necessary to be prepared to work on housebreaking at some length with this type of breed, as they have a tendency to be somewhat independent in mind. One will need firm, consistent boundaries with a dependable routine in place. A training routine that is consistent and involves interaction with loads of praise is a perfect motivator. In the meanwhile, loving attention as they do, this terrier breed can have episodes of bossiness or jealousy but this is rarely a predominant characteristic. A Norfolk terrier is quite self confident and habitually does very well with other dogs, at times all too eager to have a companion in which to take on the world. The Norfolk terrier does quite well walking with a lead and, for safety's sake, it is recommended that one keep this breed on a leash at all times unless enclosed in a fenced area. It is not uncommon for instinct to take over the minute a Norfolk terrier spies a squirrel or some other small prey and chase off after it with almost reckless abandon. Households where small pets such as gerbils, guinea pigs or even rabbits share their space with a Norfolk terrier need to be kept in cages at all times, preferably in separate rooms. Since Norfolk terriers are very intelligent dogs, they will often learn bad habits quickly, just as they will learn positive habits. Consistent training and changing training routines frequently is critical with the breed to avoid boredom and non-compliance issues. As with all terriers, the breed does best with positive rewards and lots of praise for a job well done. Ignoring the dog for bad behavior, especially when the Norfolk is learning, is an excellent method for eliminating the bad behavior. Yelling at or punishing the terrier will not achieve the desired results, rather you will damage the bond that the dog has formed with you and can lead to more aggressive type behaviors and lack of response to commands.

Norwegian Buhunds
Aliases: Norsk Buhund, Norwegian Sheepdog, Homestead Dog, Farm Dog
Life Span:12-15 years.

Litter Size:3-5 puppies. Group:Spitz Type Recognized By:CKC, FCI, ANKC, NKC, APRI, ACR Color:Wheaton: This ranges from light to yellowish red. There can be dark tipped hairs and a mask. Black: Can contain white blaze, white markings on chest and ring on neck and legs. Hair Length:Short Size:Medium Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:17-18 1/2 inches Male Weight:31-40 pounds Female Height:16-17 1/2 inches Female Weight:26 1/2-35 1/2 pounds Living Area:The Norwegian Buhund does best living in a certain environment. They prefer a large fenced yard where they can spend much of their time outside. They need plenty of exercise and should live in an environment that is conducive to that. However, they will do just fine in an apartment if the owner has the capabilities to put in the effort to ensure that the dog is receiving plenty of time to exercise and run outside.
Description

The Norwegian Buhund is a typical Spitz dog of medium build. They are squarely built with a short compact body. The head is wedge shaped with erect pointed ears. The muzzle is about the same length as the skull with a stop that is well defined but not too pronounced. The lips should be black and tightly closed and the teeth should meet and have perfect dentition. The tail is carried curled over the back. The Norwegian Buhund is a very energetic and intelligent dog. They are typically herding dogs however the Norwegian Buhund is a breed known for its ability to perform as police dogs and as aids for the hearing impaired. As a companion, they have an innate desire to please their masters as well as a quick and eager aptitude for learning. However, since the breed is energetic and intelligent, consistent training is needed for Norwegian Buhunds from the time they are puppies. They are also a vocal breed and do communicate by barking. Owners of Norwegian Bohunds may find that consistent training is needed in order to implement appropriate manners. Regardless of their highly energetic personalities and dispositions, they are an affectionate breed

that is content to curl up at your feet at the end of the day. They are extremely lovable and form strong bonds with their master and family. Although they are working dogs, they demand play time with their owners and can be very stubborn if neglected. On the other hand, they also have a high sense of independence at times and need to be left alone to explore or rest as needed. IT is difficult to accommodate both sides of their personalities as they do experience separation anxiety if left alone for long periods of time; this can result in destructive behavior. Appropriate and consistent training is required and will result in a well-mannered and affectionate Norwegian Buhund.
Coat Description

The Norwegian Buhund has two coats. There is an outer coat that is thick and rich but lies smoothly. The under coat is soft, dense, and wooly. The coat is shorter on the head and legs but longer on the chest and neck. The males will typically have a slightly longer coat than the females. They are naturally clean dogs and are basically odorless even when wet.
History

In the year 900 during the Gokstad Norway excavation a Viking grave was excavated and the skeletal remains of six dogs were found. These remains are representative of modern day Buhunds. Vikings were buried with their most valuable possessions and their dogs were responsible for the herding of cattle and sheep and protecting of farms (bu). The dogs were expected to continue these duties in the afterlife. It has been mentioned that the Vikings took the dogs on their many journeys on sea and on land. However, the more refined Buhunds that are seen today were raised on the coasts of Norway. There they herded sheep and guarded farms.
Temperament

The Norwegian Buhund is a highly cheerful and active breed. They do not tire easily and require extensive exercise on a daily basis. The Norwegian Buhund needs to expel its energy and become destructive and ill-mannered if ignored or made to stay still frequently. In conjunction with their high level of activity and energy, they are also extremely lovable and are known for their love of children. However, due to their high level of energy and need for intensive training, Norwegian Buhunds should always be supervised, especially around children and the elderly. This breed loves to cuddle and give kisses to their masters and families. They form strong bonds with their owners and therefore are natural watch dogs. This can result in aloof behavior and wariness around strangers. However, the Norwegian Buhund is highly intelligent. They are communicative and brave, but rarely will snap or bite without provocation. However, not all dogs of this breed are steady; they are sometimes found to be nervous dogs. They can even have a suspicious nature about them. New owners may find this problematic, since the Norwegian Buhund may bark at each new alarming noise or movement. This breed is also extremely headstrong and demonstrates an intense desire to be taught and to learn new things. If appropriate stimulus is not made available, the breed may resort to destructive or inappropriate behavior. The Buhund breed does become bored easily and is known to become restless. A constant state of activity is required, attention, praise and new information.

This breed is ideal for owners who can dedicate time to exercise and training. With this desire for activity and learning combined with a high level of energy, the Norwegian Buhund makes an excellent obedience and agility dog. People who live active lifestyles, or are seeking a dog with which they can become involved in dog sports, will appreciate the personality of the Norwegian Buhund. It is also an ideal dog for people who are athletic and desire a dog to go running, hiking or biking with. This breed makes an excellent companion for a sports enthusiast. There are some negative aspects of the temperament of the Norwegian Buhund. Those considering the breed should be aware that they can experience severe separation anxiety. If left alone for several hours they are known to destructively chew things and bark, often destroying furnishings and disrupting neighbors. Therefore, it is important for the owners of these dogs to be able to be home often enough so that this does not happen and to properly exercise their dog for two hours or so on a daily basis. The Norwegian Buhund is a working dog and will require a lot of time and attention, whether he intended to herd livestock or live a life of leisure as a family bet.
Health Problems

Hip Dysplasia: A very common Degenerative Joint Disease that affects many breeds. It is the abnormal development of the hip joint in the young dog. If there are no carriers of dysplasia in the dog's lineage then the dog will not develop hip dysplasia. It is important to research the breeder's and the lineage before purchasing the dog and to use a reputable breeder whenever possible. Eye problems: Some eye problems have been mentioned, but typically Norwegian Buhunds are very Health dogs.
Grooming

The Norwegian Buhund has a short very easy care coat that does not tangle or mat when the dog sheds. This dog is a seasonal shedder and does need extra grooming during shedding season. This makes the grooming of the Norwegian Buhund very manageable. However, because of their shedding they do need to be brushed regularly and this of course would increase during the two shedding seasons. They should be brushed at a minimum of twice a week and that is not during the shedding seasons. In addition to the coat, there are other regular grooming requirements for the dog as well. The toenails of the dog should be trimmed regularly. The nails should be trimmed below the quick. The quick is the pinkish looking protrusion on light colored nails. If the nails are dark colored only cut the end of the nail and do not cut if the dog wants to jerk away when you apply pressure. The nails should be cut at a 90 degree angle. Proper trimming of nails is important because it can be painful to the dog by causing welts and can also scratch furniture and humans. The dog should also be bathed regularly. Regularly typically means about once a month. The dog should be bathed using a gentle tearless dog shampoo. These shampoos can be diluted when used as well. People shampoo or liquid soap is much too harsh for the dog's coat and skin. Because the Norwegian Buhund is a medium sized dog, it should be easy enough to bathe the dog in the

bathtub at home. Before the dog even hits the water it is very important to brush the dog and get rid of all of loose hair. When bathing the dog, it is important to wash the body first, and then save the face, neck, and ears for last. Then rinse the dog several times to ensure that all the soap is out of the coat. Any soap residue left on the dog can cause skin irritation and problems. After the bath, the dog should be wrapped in a towel to absorb the excess water and prevent the dog from shaking the water everywhere. The dog should be towel dried well and then finished with a hair dryer. Make sure that the dryer is set to a reasonable setting and is not too hot for the dog. After the dog is dry, it should be brushed thoroughly again.
Exercise

The Norwegian Buhund is a working dog and therefore requires a lot of exercise. They need to be exercised daily. They love to play sports and go for long walks. Exercise needs to include mental stimulation as well. The dogs do love to run, but it is also important to incorporate games and tricks into the exercise routine as well. Off leash dog parks are an excellent place to allow the dog to socialize with other animals as well as to run and get rid of some energy. Norwegian Buhunds should have one hour of exercise at least twice daily.
Training

The Norwegian Buhund needs intensive and constant training from the time it is a puppy continued throughout its life. They are known to be somewhat sensitive dogs and therefore positive training techniques such as clicker training or food reinforcement training work best for this breed. The puppies should be introduced into training when they are about eight to twelve weeks of age. Having the puppy on a predictable schedule will make them feel more relaxed and loved. Proper crate training can also be useful. It is important to teach the puppy about keeping quiet in its crate at night as well as during the day time when there is no interaction. Between the ages of three and six months the dog should be learning to sit, lie down, stop barking when asked, walk well on a leash, and come when called. It is also helpful for the dog to learn to play games such as "find it" and "bring it" Games like these can be very useful with a Norwegian Buhund because it will keep the occupied while in the home. Between the ages of six and ten months the dog should be able to walk nicely on the leash, give you full attention when necessary, stay sitting when you walk away, play hide and seek with family members, and acknowledge names of family members. Simple tricks like "roll over" and "shake a paw" and many others can be taught during this age as well. The Norwegian Buhund does learn quickly and gets bored with repetition so keep teaching the dog new things when it is ready. It is also important for the dog to be socialized with people and other animals during its puppy stages so that it can learn to interact appropriately with both. The Norwegian Buhund needs to become familiar with interaction with people and animals so that it lessens the suspicion and likelihood of the dog reacting vocally to new stimuli.

Norwegian Elkhounds
Aliases: Norsk Elghund, Elkhound
Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size:7-14 puppies Group:AKC Hound, Northern Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:gray coat with lighter undercoat. Black on muzzle, ears and tail. Hair Length:Medium Size:Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:19-21 inches (48-53 cm) Male Weight:50-60 pounds (23-27 kg) Female Height:18-20 inches (46-51 cm) Female Weight:40-55 pounds (18-25 kg) Living Area:Indoor with a large yard for exercise and cooler climates are best.
Description

The Norwegian Elkhound is a compact and muscular medium sized dog that is very like a spitz breed in appearance and somewhat like a hound in temperament and hunting ability. The Norwegian Elkhound gives the appearance of athletic ability, power and intelligence while still being an excellent dog for families. The Norwegian Elkhound has a typical spitz body with strong, straight legs, deep chest and relatively long and deep ribcage. The front of the body appears heavier and more substantial than the back end, and the chest is deep and strong to allow for long days of running on hunts. The neck is solid and sturdy and flows up from the shoulders to the head. The head of the Norwegian Elkhound is held high and alert, with the sharp, triangle prick ears constantly tracking sounds in the environment. The head is covered with shorter, thick hair that accentuates the wedge shape of the head. Many people that first see the Norwegian Elkhound compare it to a small Husky or Malamute when they see the face. The muzzle is strong and tapered with strong jaws that meet in

a scissors bite. The eyes are dark brown and very alert and clear, enhancing the look of intelligence and constant vigilance that the breed is known for. The coat is a very distinctive trait of the Norwegian Elkhound with a darker outer coat over a lighter colored inner coat. The coat is considered a "stand off" coat which means that the dense undercoat pushes the outer coat outwards giving a volume appearance to the coat over the entire body. Typically the body itself as well as the ears, muzzle and the end of the tail are a dark black, with darker shades of gray over the body and lighter silver or gray coloration on the legs and undersides of the dog. The tail is carried in a typical spitz roll over the back. It is slightly plumed looking but not excessively and the lighter undercoat hair is very visible as the tail curls over the back. Norwegian Elkhound puppies are all born black and then gradually their coats lighten as they age. Often the full development of the gray coat color does not happen until the puppy is several weeks old.
Coat Description

The coat is a very dense looking stand off coat that is darker on the back and upper body including the face and neck. The muzzle and face have a shorter coat that is dark to black and the ears and tip of the tail are also black. The under coat and underside of the dog is lighter gray to silver in color. The coat is naturally water and dirt resistant and the dogs are naturally very clean and do not have a strong dog odor.
History

The Norwegian Elkhound was originally a Viking dog and is believed to have existed since about 5000 BC. It has been used throughout history for a variety of purposes from hunting moose and big game through to herding and guarding. It is believed that the original dogs of the breed were skeletally very similar to the current breed and it is considered to be one of the oldest breeds of domestic dogs. The Norwegian Elkhound hunts by scent and can actually smell game several miles away. They use their piercing and rather high pitched bark to alert the hunters, then scent track the game until they find it. The Norwegian Elkhound has been known to track for days at a time, barking to keep the hunter's aware of its position. They traditionally hunted in small packs, surrounding the moose or game animal and then barking to alert hunters that they had the game at bay. Despite what the name suggestions, the Norwegian Elkhound was originally used to hunt moose, which, in Norwegian, is pronounced "elg". The Norwegian Elkhound has also be used to hunt bear, badger, caribou, reindeer and rabbits. The Norwegian Elkhound in more recent times has been used as a watch dog, guard dog and sled dog. In its homeland of Norway there is still a law that allows the Minister of Defense to draft all of the breed located in the country in times of war should they be needed for transportation purposes.

Temperament

The Norwegian Elkhound is a combination of the traits found in both the spitz and hound breeds. As a northern type dog it has been bred for its ability to be outside and be on its own, and this independence is very noticeable in the breed, especially when they are young. They also have the fun-loving and playful personality of a hound and make excellent family dogs. The Norwegian Elkhound is a great pet with children and is a natural watchdog and guard dog, protecting its territory. Historically used as both a hunter and sled dog, its role was to keep game in one spot until the hunter arrived. Norwegian Elkhounds will bark for long periods of time to let the family know that something is new or unfamiliar in the area. Although they are very affectionate and loving towards the family and people they know, they are rather aloof and distrustful of strangers. The Norwegian Elkhound needs to be socialized at an early age to prevent it from becoming dogaggressive. This aggression is most noticed in intact males so both socialization and neutering is strongly recommended before aggressive behavior starts. The best option for keeping a Norwegian Elkhound as a companion dog in multiple dog households is a opposite gender neutered or spayed dog as a companion. The Norwegian Elkhound loves to be with people and does require daily attention, exercise and time with the family. They will love to play and run and do best in families that are on the go and busy, but can also adjust to quieter situations with lots of opportunities for exercise and to be outside. A northern breed, they love to be outside in cold weather but may have difficulty in adjusting to very warm climates. The breed is highly intelligent and has a hounds natural hunting ability so need to be in a fenced yard to prevent wandering and roaming. They can have a very high prey instinct and may not do well with cats and other pets unless they have been raised together since the Norwegian Elkhound was a puppy. The Norwegian Elkhound is not a dog that will follow every command from the owner as soon as it is given. They are independent and will often be distracted by other activities they find more interesting than what the owner has in mind. They are, however, very easy to train using positive, firm training methods and lots of petting and attention for a job well done. They love to work with people and do best if considered part of the family rather than left alone.
Health Problems

The Health conditions most often seen in Norwegian Elkhound are the same as many of the larger breeds. These include canine hip dysplasia and Progressive Retinal Atrophy, an eye condition found in most breeds. In addition some Norwegian Elkhounds will develop pyotraumatic dermatitis, more commonly known as Hot Spots. These painful and itchy lesions on the skin look moist and crusty and the dog will lick, scratch and bite at the skin causing hair loss. This can be treated by washing the area, clipping the hair, and consulting with a vet to track

the source of the irritant. Fanconi Syndrome, a kidney impairment is very occasionally seen in the breed.
Grooming

The Norwegian Elkhound has the same grooming requirements of most of the northern breeds. The coarser outer hair is rather stiff and not prone to matting however the softer inner hair can be. Brushing twice a week with a firm bristle brush, pin brush or rubber brush followed by a metal comb is the best possible grooming routine. They are average shedders year round but have very heavy seasonal sheds when the downy undercoat is completely "blown". At these times the hair will come out in clumps, and the dead hair can mat into the outer coat if brushing is not regularly completed. Since the breed is prone to hot spots and skin irritations regular grooming will help owners monitor these conditions as well as removing the old, dead hair and minimizing the irritants against the skin. The breed has no odor and so bathing should only be done when absolutely necessary and only with special dog shampoos and conditioners. Over bathing will strip the weather-resistant oils from the hair resulting in dry, damaged hair. The area around the rump and the back where the tail rests can be particularly difficult areas to keep free from tangles and mats. When grooming pay special attention to these potentially problematic areas.
Exercise

The Norwegian Elkhound breed requires a fair amount of exercise per day. They are the dog version of a distance runner, preferring longer walks and jogs to short bursts of activities. Many breeders recommend at least a solid hour of fairly intense physical activity per day. If the family has children a romp in the yard with the kids after school will be a perfect activity for fun, attention and exercise for the dog. Since the Norwegian Elkhound was used as a hunting dog and has hound tendencies, it is always recommended that these dogs be on a leash or lead when outside of the yard. They will roam and wander and may become so engrossed in an interesting scent or in chasing a squirrel that they completely ignore the owners calls. The Norwegian Elkhound will play very will with other dogs that it is raised with and socialized, but should not be off leash when unfamiliar dogs are around as they can be very protective and somewhat aggressive. They do need a place to run and exercise, although they can adjust very well to a small indoor living space and will be well behaved and calm indoors after exercise.
Training

The Norwegian Elkhound is a relatively independent dog that needs early training and socialization to be friendly and well-behaved dogs. They do not respond well to negative types of

training and are reported to actually remember any negative treatment or unfair or harsh punishment. They will bond very strongly with a family that treats them well and will work hard to protect and interact with the family. As an independent breed a Norwegian Elkhound is not recommended for owners that want a dog that will immediately respond to all commands. The Norwegian Elkhound typically will respond to commands but tends to respond after considering the situation rather than upon the immediate command. This is likely due to their breeding which encouraged dogs to think and problem solve when they were chasing or holding game until the hunters arrived. The Norwegian Elkhound requires high levels of socialization when they are young to prevent any possible dog aggression or wariness of strangers. They are a watch and guard dog breed and were bred to bark to alert people and need to be taught to only bark for short periods of time. When bored or alone for long periods they can become problem barkers very quickly. A Norwegian Elkhound will need to be exercised before training sessions to ensure that the dog can focus. A good hour of exercise is usually sufficient to allow them to attend to what you need. Obedience training is ideal as it helps owners establish their command in positive and controlled settings as well as providing excellent socialization opportunities for the young dog. A very intelligent dog they are quick to learn with the owner expects of them and will need little prompting to learn a new trick or command. They should not be taught through highly repetitive training as they will become bored and non-responsive. Since the breed can have a high prey instinct socializing with other animals, especially cats in the house, is critical at a young age. Norwegian Elkhounds that have not been socialized with other animals should never be left alone with the animals, even if things seem to be going well.

Norwich Terriers
Aliases: Jones Terrier, Cantab Terrier
Life Span:12-16 years Litter Size:2-3 puppies Group:Terrier Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, ANKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Red (all shades), Black/Tan, Gray. White marks are considered unacceptable by the AKC breed standard. Hair Length:Medium Size:Toy/Small

Shedding:Lite Shed Male Height:9-10 in (24-25.5 cm) Male Weight:11-12 lbs (5-5.4 kg) Female Height:9-10 in (24-25.5 cm) Female Weight:11-12 lbs (5-5.4 kg) Living Area:Like many terriers, the Norwich Terrier is at its best in an urban setting, surrounded by people. Because of the breed's inherent energy (and because of its genetic predisposition for hunting and chasing small rodents), the Norwich Terrier will also do well in suburban areas with enough yard space for running, playing, and chasing, but as a rule the dogs won't be as happy in larger rural areas or in any area with a great deal of local wildlife.
Description

The Norwich Terrier is one of the smaller terriers, standing only about ten inches tall at the withers. It has a distinctive double coat, which can appear in several hues (although red is by far the most common.) The dogs are known for their excellent ratting skills, as well as for their extremely companionable personalities, high energy levels, and generally willful and intelligent terrier personalities. The breed is not to be confused with the Norfolk Terrier, who are closely related but who differ in terms of ear shape: the Norfolk Terrier has drooping ears, while the Norwich Terrier's ears are always "pricked" and straight.
Coat Description

The Norwich Terrier's coat is as a rule kept short all across its body. The fur is straight, fairly thick, and wiry, with slightly smoother and longer regions around the eyes and mouth. The neck and shoulder regions are longer still in order to protect the Norwich Terrier from the weather or from other problems. The Norwich Terrier also has a softer, downier undercoat, meant to insulate it against the cold.
History

The Norwich Terrier was first recognized in East Anglia in the mid-1800s. Believed to be a descendant of the Irish Terrier through unknown channels of cross-breeding, Norwich Terriers were used as ratters and hunting dogs from their earliest years, and by all reports were thought to excel at both duties. Norwich Terriers were most commonly relied on to flush foxes out of underground hiding places (when the foxes had "gone to ground"), allowing horses and other hunting dogs to continue the hunt. Curiously, the Norwich Terrier has actually declined in value over time--in a manner of speaking. When the breed was first recognized by the Kennel Club of Great Britain in 1932, it came in two varieties: dogs with drooping ears and dogs with sharper "prick" ears. The common

practice was simply to crop the ears of the droop-eared Norwich Terriers--until the legislation against ear cropping in England made this impossible. The ultimate solution was simply to split the Norwich Terrier into two breeds: the drop-eared dogs would be newly designated the Norfolk Terrier, while the prick-eared dogs were designated Norwich Terriers. So the name "Norwich Terrier" now refers to fewer dogs--hence the apparent drop in value, although the actual value of the Norwich Terrier to happy owners worldwide is certainly not in question.
Temperament

As far as terriers go, the Norwich Terrier combines some of the principal virtues of the type-intelligence, friendliness, cautiousness--while avoiding some of the principal faults--the tendency toward nervousness, the tendency toward isolation, the tendency toward barking at everyone and everything in sight. Norwich Terriers are slightly more "outdoorsy" than some other terriers, having been bred for both hunting and ratting, which makes the breed often a joy to be around-yet which makes it also problematic in some crucial aspects. For one, the Norwich Terrier is difficult to trust off of its leash or in an unsupervised environment. This is simply because the Norwich Terrier has historically been very, very good at what it was bred to do--which is to chase and hunt other animals. If let off its leash or let out of its yard or house, the Norwich Terrier will proceed to do exactly that. Training can alleviate this problem to a great extent, but basic drives can't be trained away--and this indelible aspect of the Norwich Terrier's personality may make the breed unattractive to some people who aren't comfortable with this particular flavor of terrier aggressiveness. Norwich Terriers are not the best breed in the world for socializing with other household animals--for the same reason, of course. The earlier other household animals are introduced, the better as far as general harmony between dog and animal companions is concerned. Children are another matter, and as long as your children are well-behaved around your Norwich--meaning that they respect its independence and intelligence--you can integrate a Norwich Terrier into a family with children without a great deal of trouble. Apart from these concerns, however, the Norwich Terrier is an ideal blend: the intelligence of a terrier without the nervous caution (and nervous barking), plus the friendliness of a terrier without the jealous tendencies toward destruction if the Norwich is left alone for too long. Although the Norwich--like any dog--will get upset if isolated, the Norwich is also capable of existing on its own for short spans of time without neuroticism or negative behavior--which can make it the ideal, friendly, energetic breed for busy people with lives of their own--but also a healthy amount of time for their dog.
Health Problems

The most serious Health Problems that can affect the Norwich Terrier are Epilepsy and a collection of respiratory ailments, prominently including narrow or collapsing tracheas. These conditions are both genetic, and young Norwich Terriers should be checked by a veterinarian regularly for early warning signs of these potentially very damaging problems. Apart from these conditions, the breed has a slight susceptibility to hip dysplasia, but otherwise good Health.

Grooming

The Norwich Terrier is a fairly low-maintenance dog. Some light brushing and combing should be done every week, with this schedule possibly increased during the brief shedding season. But overall, the size of the Norwich Terrier (and its comparatively indoor lifestyle) keeps the dogs from getting messy or matted enough for more than the occasional bath. One useful technique for keeping your Norwich Terrier clean, however--and one largely unique to this breed--is the practice of "stripping" your Norwich's fur every few weeks. Contrary to the implications of the word, this doesn't mean shaving your Norwich bald, but rather lightly pulling on dead hairs in the Norwich's outer coat in order to remove them prior to shedding. This keeps your house clean of dog hair, for one, but it also ensures that the growth of new hairs in the Norwich's coat won't be hampered by old, dead hair blocking crucial pores. Over time, careful use of "stripping" can prolong the life and health of your Norwich's coat, and it can also keep the coat tidier--reducing the number of times you'll have to do some clipping work in order to remove tangles or mats. Though "stripping" is a useful technique, it shouldn't be done on a large scale without a little bit of practice. Although the skill is simple in theory, in practice it can be tricky to figure out which hairs are ready to be "stripped"--and if you don't choose the correct hair, it's your dog who'll suffer (and who probably won't suffer to be groomed for much longer.) Before you try "stripping" your Norwich on a regular schedule, talk to a groomer or an experienced Norwich breeder in order to figure out exactly what you should do. Try to see the process in action if possible--it'll make it all the easier to take care of your own dog through "stripping" (as you should.) "Stripping" the Norwich Terrier's coat should be the outer limit of grooming for this breed. For official purposes (showing or breeding), the Norwich Terrier's outer coat needs to be kept as natural as possible. Some trimming is of course acceptable--and probably desirable, even with the breed's low propensity to shed. But when grooming your Norwich Terrier, it's important to groom conservatively--keep the dog healthy and respectable-looking, of course, but don't alter its distinctive fur pattern. This is not only important for show purposes, but it's important for general health: most of the longer patches of fur on the Norwich Terrier's body are meant to protect it from the weather, and the tiny dogs may not do as well if this protection is denied to them in the name of ideas about fashion.
Exercise

Norwich Terriers, being energetic terriers, create most of their own exercise. As long as you're willing and able to give them the personal attention that they crave, Norwich Terriers can be kept in the home, lightly supervised, for some time without causing any destruction and while still getting a large measure of the exercise they need. To give them the rest of the exercise they need, however, you'll want to take your dog out for a walk once in a while. And again, as with many terriers, you'll need to take special care that your Norwich Terrier never gets off of his or her leash, and that good training and good habits ensure

that your Norwich Terrier remains fairly close to you throughout his or her outing. Norwich Terriers are infamous for their ratting and mousing abilities, and an improperly trained Norwich Terrier will bolt at the first sight of rodents--including fairly common squirrels or other urban animals. So as the saying goes, keep your friends close and your enemies closer--and keep your Norwich Terrier closer still. It's certainly fine to let your Norwich Terrier play in a fenced yard--in fact, you should take as many opportunities as you can to allow this, as no dog, however indoors-friendly, can remain happy inside all day. Make sure, however, that the yard is fenced for exactly the same reasons as you should make sure that your Norwich Terrier doesn't get off its leash. Although chasing rodents is excellent exercise, you don't want to get any unwanted exercise yourself by chasing your Norwich Terrier through several neighboring yards at the end of the day. As far as individual play goes, Norwich Terriers enjoy tug-of-war games a great deal, especially with rope-style toys. Something about the ropes sparks that old ratting impulse in their minds, and the companionable temperament of the Norwich will enjoy playing with you, one of the beloved humans, more than any private game in an empty house or apartment. Don't be surprised, however, at the aggressiveness of your Norwich during games like this: all terriers tend to enjoy the company of people, but they also tend to enjoy winning and getting their own way. As long as overall behavior is good (i.e. no biting or unwanted barking during games), you can expect to see and tolerate quite a bit of aggressiveness on the dog's part--which is, after all, good exercise.
Training

Norwich Terriers are highly intelligent, and thus highly trainable--if you're willing to remember the central rule of training terriers, which is to recognize the fact that terriers invariably have their own will. Effective training of a terrier--even one as comparatively friendly and companionable as a Norwich Terrier--will require your learning how to turn that stubborn will to your own purposes by making it enjoyable and interesting for your dog to learn good behavior and respond quickly to commands. The way to do this is through positive training, never through negative/aversive training. Negative training will not allow you to turn a dog's will to your own purposes--not without breaking the spirit and personality of the dog, which is the principal joy of all terriers (and arguably the particular joy of the amiable Norwich.) Positive training, on the other hand, allows your dog to use his or her intelligence, to be rewarded for it, and to feel both pride and pleasure at the successful performance of a command or the successful following of good behavior-which leads to an increased willingness to perform and behave well, which leads to a welltrained dog. One crucial area to focus on when training a Norwich Terrier is the set of commands for controlling dogs while on the leash or in an open area. Norwich Terriers are bred to chase, hunt, and dig, and these inherent drives--as well as their inherent wariness around other animals-preclude their being off the leash or their being left unsupervised in a yard. These drives also preclude their being on the leash if they don't know how to behave themselves and return to your

side when (and if) they forget themselves with the sight of a darting squirrel or cat. So begin training early, and focus as quickly as possible on the leash commands--heel and sit in particular-while using positive rewards to accelerate the process. You'll not only avoid your dog's harming any other animals or damaging property through digging, but you'll avoid having to chase your Norwich (or simply drag him or her home, barking all the way.)

Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers

Aliases: Toller, Little River Duck Dog, Yarmouth Toller
Life Span:12-15 years Litter Size:4-6 puppies Group:Gun Dog, AKC Sporting Recognized By:CKC, FCI, UKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:shades of red and orange uniform over the body. White markings on the feet, face, chest and the tip of the tail are acceptable.

Hair Length:Long Size:Medium, Large Shedding:Moderate Shed Male Height:17-21 inches (43-53 cm) Male Weight:37-51 pounds (17-23 kg) Female Height:17-21 inches (43-53 cm) Female Weight:37-51 pounds (17-23 kg) Living Area:Thanks to their intelligence, this breed is highly adaptable to all conditions. Whether living in a small apartment or house, a Toller will need ready access to the outdoors. In a home with a yard, they are likely to be happy spending half their time indoors and half their time out. The opportunity to go out and explore the yard at will can also help keep the Toller from becoming bored.

Description

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, despite its flawless and utterly unique performance in the field, is one of the lesser known groups of gundog. With a smaller, compact form that is strong and balanced, the breed almost resembles that of a Golden Retriever whose coat has taken on the reddish orange or tawny hue of an Irish Setter. Also known as the Little River Duck Dog or Yarmouth Toller, specimens in this breed are more commonly and simply referred to as "Tollers." As early hunters found, the breed's innate temperament and white markings made it perfect for tolling. Tolling is the act of attracting or luring small game such as waterfowl to a certain spot so a hunter can acquire an easier shot when the birds take flight. The Toller then happily retrieves the downed waterfowl or other small game. At 21-25 inches at the shoulder and weighing in at 45-55 pounds, the dog is of a medium to thick build but never slight. Females may be somewhat smaller but are no less in stature. Along with the orange reddish coat there may be white markings on the head or feet but this is not always the case. The ears give the head somewhat of a triangular shape; wide at the top and smoothly narrowing down to the muzzle. The eyes are set to the side of a noticeable stop and are dark to medium in colaration, very friendly and alert looking in appearance. The muzzle is tapered to the nose and the lips and mouth are very tight, not with the loose lips of many of the gun dog breeds. The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is very similar in appearance to a smaller version of the Golden Retriever. The body is muscular and stocky but still agile and very athletic. The body is relatively long, set on strong, solid legs and compact rounded feet. The tail is long and sweeping, with a noticeable curve upwards at the level of about the hocks of the back legs. The chest is deep and wide and the ribcage is well developed and solid in appearance. The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever has a long, sweeping stride and a natural spring or bounce to their step.
Coat Description

One of the most recognized aspects of this breed is its coat that has been described as everything from orange and red to copperish and tawny. The double coat is long, somewhat wavy and coarse on the outer layer, followed by a dense, thick and softer inner layer next to the skin. The coat tends to be most wavy on the back and around the neck, and should be straight on the rest of the body.
History

Although the breed itself originates from Canada, for the most part it is believed that Tollers had their very beginnings in Belgium sometime in the 17th century. Eventually the breed made its way over from Great Britain to Nova Scotia. As legend has it, after observing the behavior of foxes for whom tolling is a natural method for catching prey, outdoorsmen bred this unique characteristic into dogs for the purpose of catching small game with nets. In all reality, crossing the DNA of a fox with a dog would be genetically impossible. The dogs were likely bred to only look like foxes. Tollers further came about as a breed at or around the turn of the century after being mated with retrievers and working class spaniels in the region of Yarmouth in Nova Scotia.

Temperament

The temperament of the Toller is one that makes for a good companion when out in the field. They are alert but steady, not to mention ever patient. This also makes them an ideal family dog as well. Households with children do best with a dog that is patient and on the alert for anything suspicious. Tollers are not especially useful as a guard dog and will do much better instead as an attentive watch dog. They can be quite wary of new elements in their environment, giving a good bark or two just as an alert. They are also naturally playful and eager to please. The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a good family dog, ready to play with kids and run and romp with the family. Generally not an overly enthusiastic dog the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever has a pleasant and gentle personality that can become very engage and attentive when they are hunting. The nature of this breed will always come through and there should be no attempt to ignore or suppress these instinctual habits. Those who choose to use the dog in the vein for which it was bred will find they can start training their water loving Toller quite young using simple retrieving exercises. With the help of a professional trainer, one can have their dog ready to go and out in the field in no time. When given the chance, one should never pass up the opportunity to watch these magnificent animals at work. The Toller is always eager to get out and has an inherent enthusiasm for performing its hunting duties. It is not unheard of for the Toller to give a look of complete disdain or sigh when a hunter misses a shot, delaying their opportunity to get out and retrieve.
Health Problems

The Toller is essentially a robust breed that can share many of the same common complaints as any other dog, such as hip dysplasia or Heartworms. However, regular vet checkups can help to lessen or keep these problems at bay. There are occasionally serious Health conditions found within the breed that include:
Thyroid-poor overall Health, hair condition and growth.

PRA-progressive retinal atrophy that will lead to increasing levels of blindness for the dog.

Hip Dysplasia-a gradual degeneration of the hip joint, resulting in pain and stiffness.

 Addisons Disease-lack of production of adrenal hormones that causes Vomiting, lethargy and heart problems and possible death.

Grooming

Since the Toller is a dog bred for retrieving game out of the iciest of water, what appear to be long feathered tresses on the outside is actually a dense layered, water resistant double coat. Upon closer examination, one will see the soft topcoat gives way to a dense undercoat where natural oils from the dog's body become trapped. This is what creates the coat's water resistant capability and the Toller's ability to safely swim in sub freezing water. It is because of this dense undercoat that frequent shampooing is staunchly looked down upon when it comes to this type of breed. Washing away these natural oils will all but destroy the Toller's ability to protect itself in coldertemperatures. Instead, a regular dry shampooing is recommended with a wet bath used only when necessary. Regular grooming with a stiff bristled brush will help keep the coat in its optimum condition. Although the breed tends to shed no more and no less than any other dog, regular grooming will always help minimize the amount of hair a dog deposits about the household. Good ear health is one of the mainstays of any water loving dog. Since a dog's L shaped ear canal makes it easy for water to get trapped inside, infections are a common occurrence. To alleviate the risk of infection, a small dollop of alcohol based ear drying gel can be applied to the Toller's ears and gently massaged in. As the alcohol and gel evaporate, it efficiently dries up any trapped water with it, doing away with the chance for bacteria to grow. This product can easily be obtained from any veterinarian.
Exercise

The Toller is one that is observant, agile and ready for action. They are also a dog that loves water and will not hesitate to at least indulge in getting their paws wet when given the chance. While they will do just fine if a daily walk gets rained out, long periods of inactivity are not recommended for this breed. One of the best exercises for the Toller is a simple game of fetch. It not only will provide for the much needed interaction between the owner and his or her canine companion, it validates and gives an outlet for the Toller's strong natural instinct of retrieving. Regular exercise for the Toller that includes being walked or run through parks, along beaches and in more crowded environments will also help to socialize the breed with new people and places. In addition the Toller is a natural retriever, so making exercise, training and fun time combine into one longer session is an ideal to provide physical and mental exercise for the dog. The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is not necessarily a good self-exerciser and is more likely to find a comfortable spot in the yard to relax when let outside on their own. A companion dog can help with the Toller getting some exercise when outside on their own. They will also do great with a family of active children that enjoy involving their pet in their games and activities. The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever has a lot of stamina and endurance and can make

excellent jogging or hiking companions. There natural love of water and being outdoors makes them wonderful camping dogs as well.
Training

When it comes to the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, training tends to have the same issues as it does with all retrievers. At young ages, Tollers tend to be easily distracted. For training sessions before the age of two years, the only required elements should be that of brevity and fun. Training periods that turn into drills will result in boredom for this breed, likely turning things into a dreadful ordeal for both the dog and its owner. From the age of two years on up, there is a development in maturity that allows the Toller to take in and process information more efficiently. This is when many begin true hunting maneuver training for their dog. In cases where Tollers are used for the retrieval of waterfowl, they will also need to be broken in and conditioned as pups to the loud report of a shotgun blast. This is often done using a gun breaking tape or cap guns, immediately followed by positive reinforcements using rewards and praise. Socializing, housebreaking and respect training programs that are commonly taught with other dogs work well for Tollers. Because they are known to be quite independent in mind and energetic when they are younger, it may take extra effort to help them remember to not jump on guests or walk respectfully on a leash. With this breed, consistency will always be the name of the game. One must make it an area of commitment if the true endeavor is to see results and help their companion live a happier, healthier existence. As with all breeds, training a Toller to do the things it was not meant for can be disastrous. Activities and training that run parallel to its strong hunting instincts are more likely to result in success.

Old English Sheepdogs

Aliases: Bobtail, OES, Bob
Life Span:10 -12 years Litter Size:4 - 8 puppies, average 6 puppies Group:Herding, AKC Herding, Working

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR Color:Black/White, Grey/White, Grey, White markings, Black markings

Hair Length:Long

Size:Large Shedding:Heavy Shed Male Height:22-24 inches (56-61 cm.) Male Weight:65 pounds (29 kg.) Female Height:20-22 inches (51 cm.) Female Weight:60 pounds (27 kg.), although some can grow to over 100 pounds (45 kg) Living Area:The Old English Sheepdog requires intensive exercise on a regular basis, and enjoys a variety of activities that involve vigorous movement. As a result, they are not well-suited for cramped living spaces or small apartments. They are fairly active indoors, but can become destructive if there is limited space. An average-sized yard is ideal for these dogs as they enjoy being quite active and playful. A farm or countryside area is ideal for these dogs as they enjoy running about and staying outside as long as possible. It is important to remember that they were raised to live and work on the farm, and have an instinctive desire to herd and explore. They do not do well if they are chained up all day, and can become listless, restless, and bored as a result. New environments can be stimulating and help them grow and learn naturally.
Description

The Old English Sheepdog is a large and well-proportioned dog, and has become a legendary dog in England and Europe. Its body is naturally stocky, well-balanced, and muscular and the unusual topline on this dog is an important breed characteristic. The chest is broad and the brisket is deep. The forelegs are straight, and the dog has small round feet that point directly forward. The dog has a well-defined stop, and the small ears lie flat. Overall, its appearance often looks disheveled and unkempt; however, with proper grooming and care this dog can look clean and well-defined naturally. The nose of the Old English Sheepdog is large and black, and the teeth may not meet in a level position. This dog is often born without a tail, or the tail may be amputated. The dog has a long double coat and soft downy undercoat; this helps to insulate the dog, and it has survived many harsh conditions. The most common colors are blue, gray, or blue gray and it is often associated with white markings. White is sometimes the predominate color, and the breed has a rolling, almost bear-like gait. It is known for its distinctive loud-ringing bark, and the sound also has a low pitch that may be picked up by other animals and even prey. The Old English Sheepdog is trustworthy, sincere, and lovable; it is naturally affectionate and has an even temper. Training the sheepdog is not diffiuclt, and these dogs learn well with direct training and will work with their masters. The sheepdog is a friendly part of the family, and

enjoys working. It's not uncommon to find this dog working side by side with its owner, and it is especially loyal, mature, and fun-loving.
Coat Description

The coat of the Old English Sheepdog is thick, soft, and dense; it has a fairly thick texture and soft undercoat. It can look quite unkempt at most times, and is often considered a "shaggy" dog. Still, with regular brushing and grooming, the coat can become quite smooth. The most common colors of this dog are white, grey, and black.
History

The Old English Sheepdog has been used as a herding dog and pet for thousands of years in Europe. There are many theories as to the true origin of this dog, and many believe that it is related to the Barbone and the Deerhound. Others think that it may be related to the Briard or Bergamasco, as well as being a descendant of the hairy Russian dog known as "Owtchar" that was brought to the United Kingdom from the Baltic region. It is likely that cross breeding occurred throughout England and Russia, especially with the Bearded Collies and other animals brought in from France and the Baltics. The Old English Sheepdog was first used by many farmers in England's West Country, the groups of people in need of cattle drivers and natural sheep herders. The breed became very common in the 19th century, and has been used widely in many agricultural areas. The dog has often been called the "Bobtail" because of it's lack of a tail or short stump. The dog's tail was customarily docked as a way to identify tax-exempt herding dogs during the 18th century. In the spring time, farmers often sheared this dog along with the sheep and then used the dog hair to make blankets. Clothing and blankets trading were another part of the old English economy, and the prevalence of the Old English Sheepdog made this a natural commodity. The Old English Sheepdog has also become famous for herding, watch dogging, and retrieving. Still, it is a fine herding dog and one that has even been used for reindeer herding because of its ability to tolerate cold weather. Show dogs are another popular activity for these dogs; they were first shown in Britain in 1873, and are well-received in a variety of competitions and show dog circles.
Temperament

The Old English Sheepdog has a strong work ethic and naturally stays busy. They are energetic both indoors and out, and although they welcome attention, they also fare well by spending time on their own and staying busy with activitieis. The breed has historically been recognized as fierce, untrustworthy, and undependable. However, they are naturally gentle and loving, and have proven to be wonderful family members and pets. The dogs have a strong herding insticnt and may even attempt to herd family members nad young children. It is important to train them to respect other people in the household, and this

must be done at an early age to avoid missing the prime learning opportunities. The Old English Sheepdog tends to stay close to home, and will rarely venture off on their own. These dogs are strong-willed and will overpower their masters and owners if they are not managed appropriately. These dogs take instructions very well, and will anticipate commands at times. They are independent and can become gruff; it is important that they are given formal instructions and they can become quite submissive with the right approach. Motivation works well for the Old English Sheepdog, and they will enjoy consistent attention and formal training. The bark of the Old English Sheepdog is quite unique, and has similar sounds to a cracked bell. The breed continues to be a "young" type with plenty of energy and a high affinity for learning. These dogs make wonderful family companions and love children. They are naturally intelligent and understanding, and will follow direction when they understand the lines of respect from their master. They are bubbly and playful by nature, and are especially intuitive.
Health Problems

The Old English Sheepdog is a naturally healthy and hardy breed, and fares well with an ample amount of Exercise and fresh air. Still, the dog is prone to some special medical conditions including: Hip Dysplasia: Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) can cause mild to severe lameness. Cataracts: problems with the eyes and vision IMHA: Immune Mediated Hemolytic Anemia. Epilepsy: a neurological seizure disorder. There is no test for this.
Grooming

The Old English Sheepdog has a course, longhaired coat and needs constant care. They do need to be brushed and combed at least three times per week, as their long shaggy coat can attract dirt and debris very easily. This dog is known to develop skin problems and the hair will become matted if it is not well-maintained. These dogs are commonly used as showdogs, and will require the services of a professional groomer for the appropriate care. It is important to clip out any tangles very carefully on a regular basis, as these can cause discomfort after a period of time. The coat can be professionally machine-clipped every two months, and will need to be trimmed to at least one inch all the way around. These dogs were once sheared along with sheep, and they are most attractive with a medium-length coat year round. It is important to trim around thee eyes and the rear-end with blunt scissors to avoid cutting into the skin by mistake. The Old English Sheepdog sheds most heavily during the spring season in April and May. Regular trimming and bathing is recommended, and this can be completed with a professional grooming service. The dog is well-suited for ongoing care, and will not "put up a fight" for baths

or getting wet. It is important to train them to experience bathing in a positive way in their early years. In addition, it is important to check for ticks during tick season, and ongoing trips to the Vet will surely take care of health problems. If the dog will not be used for showing, simply cutting the dog's hair with a professional electric shear is all that is necessary.
Exercise

The Old English Sheepdog enjoys working hard and the ideal exercise is a long run or jog with their owners. It's important to maintain their endurance and stamina, and the dog will rarely miss an opportunity to race and be outdoors. A natural herder, these dogs will work outside for hours if needed. They are best suited for a medium-sized yard, but if there is none available, they just need a regular opportunity to exercise! Staying busy comes naturally to them so having toys and other objects available is a good idea. A long brisk walk twice per day is ideal; a run incorporated into their exercise regiment will help them become strong and maintain good form throughout the year. Water must always be available for these dogs, especially in hotter climates when their long coat can cause them to overheat. They are best-suited for cold and cooler climates, and will enjoy activities indoors during especially harsh weather. Keeping them moving and motivated to play is important for their health, and they are less likely to resort to destructive or unhealthy activities as a result. These dogs enjoy running outdoors in even cold climates, and their long coat is naturally protective to help them to do this. These dogs are naturally quite intelligent, and will not get lost easily. They are naturally curious but also know their boundaries. Owners who enjoy plenty of exercise themselves will do well as the owners of the Old English Sheepdog as they can take part in many outdoor activities together. The Old English Sheepdog makes a valuable companion to any busy owner, and they can be trained to perform a variety of tricks, skills, and take on tasks. They perform best when they have a job to do, and they are particularly attuned to their owner's needs. These dogs are most wellbehaved when they are happy, and they will rarely be aggressive unless they are threatened or hurt.
Training

The Old English Sheepdog is naturally intelligent and will enjoy ongoing training and growth. They learn quickly and they will get along well with most owners an trainers. Since they do have natural herding instincts, they have a natural drive to work and take on new tasks. They are also very strong-willed and stubborn, so it is best to teach them positive habits at a very young age. Trying a variety of training methods works best for them since they can become quite grounded in routines. Motivational training is a good idea for these dogs, and they will continue to stay interested, alert, and attentive. The dogs are good at managing challenges and overcoming difficult tasks;

they are also helpful and will fare well with working with their owners. These dogs enjoy learning new tricks and skills, and will develop their personality very quickly. These dogs are sensitive and will respond to correction and harsh tones. It is important to be firm and confident with them, but they will listen to their masters and owners, especially when they have learned boundaries and lines of respect. It's important to remember that these dogs are even tempered and very faithful; they have a tendency to develop a strong bond with their owners and will fare well with ongoing encouragement, nurturing, and attention. Overcoming training difficulties may take time and patience, but the reward is a very affectionate and well-behaved dog.