FIBERGLASS BODY BUILDING

AND
“COPY” TECHNIQUES

By David Tlollmann
 FIBERGLASS BODY BUILDING
AND
“COPY” TECHNIQUES

2 Materials and Working Techniques

Selection of fiberglass and resin.

7 How to Make Mock-Up and Molds

Mock-up based on the original metal body
Parting flanges and substructures

13 Moldless Sandwich Method

Build a body without a mold

17 How to Copy The Original Car Body

Mold the original body without ruining the paint work.

21 How to Copy The Body Kits

23 Finishing and Painting Fiberglass

1
Materials and Working Techniques

Fiberglass

Fiberglass, as the name implies, is a material composed of glass

fibers. These fibers are impregnated and embedded in a hardened
resin. When in its molten state, glass is drawn out into tiny fibers
(filaments) that are only a few ten-thousandths of an inch in
diameter and anywhere from 10 to 12 in. in length. A group of
filaments can be twisted to form a strand, then strands can be
twisted into yarn, and finally this yam is then woven into a
fiberglass cloth. Uke other textile fibers, they can be woven into
different materials, such as glass cloth, glass matting, and woven
glass. The glass fibers are also available in powder form (used
primarily in fiberglass filler) and in very tiny short lengths called
chopped glass.

The fiberglass is coated with methacrylic chromic chloride

complex. This chrome coating makes fiberglass look shiny and what
this coating really does is to help the resin to wet-out better for an
improved bond. Fiberglass without the chrome coating can lose its
bonding strength with resin in a short period of time. While selecting
fiberglass materials consult with the supplier. Most fiberglass
manufacturers should provide technical data that shows exactly what
the material is for and the coating involved, the recommended resin
to use.

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 The type of weave for cloth or roving determines the strength
of the final products. The most common types of fiberglass used in
kit car body are cloth, roving, matte, and chopped strand. The first
three are applied using hand lay-up, and the chopped strand is
sprayed with choppergun (this method is commonly used in mass
production of fiberglass products). Chopper gun method can spray
strand of fiberglass and resin very quickly. In general, a fiberglass
product made with a chopper gun is not as strong as a hand lay-up.

Fig.l Uni-directional rovings - a loose weave with a greater

number running oneway - to give greater strength in that
direction

Fig.2 Glass fibre cloth - a tight weave of glass fibre which

provides extra strength

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 Essentially, for low (or even single) production kit car body
making we need to choose hand lay-up method. The choice of
fiberglass cloth should be .010 to .015 inched thick, and with a
medium open weave for good resin penetration.

Resin

Resin is a type of plastic. There are many different types of

resins, such as the polyesters, the epoxies, the ureas, the acrylics and
the phenolics. For kit cars, polyester is resin of choice. Resins of
polyester are a heavy liquid, weighing about nine pounds per gallon
and ranging in viscosity between water thin and molasses thick
(measured from 100 eps to 70,000 eps). For kit cars use resin with
thickness around 700 eps is recommended. At this thickness, the
resin flows well and can thoroughly wet fiberglass cloth. When
thicker resin is desirable to work on vertical or overhead
applications, a thickening material- Thixotropic powder can be
added.
Polyester resin harden into different levels of flexibility, from
very rigid to very flexible, and the more flexible type of resins can
resist crack and impact better. A modestly rigid polyester is
recommended for its being easy to work with and good sdffness.

Resin cures or harden as a binder with fiberglass filaments as

the core strength material. For resin to harden, it must have a
catalyst added and then heated to 200 F. for approximately two
hours. However, if the heat is not added, the combination of resin
and catalyst can last for several days before the catalyst begins to

4
cause internal heat and subsequent hardening. This chemical heat,
called exothermic, will turn the liquid into a solid form. Exothermic
heat cures the resin just as the external heat will, but at a much
slower rate- far too slow for the kit car body building. Since a big
heating oven is not possible, and long natural curing time is not
acceptable, an accelerator is added. This accelerator serves to boost
the catalyst causing the exothermic heat to intensify. The resin will
harden much faster in a large mass (due to the exothermic heat
involved) than when spread thin. Therefore resin must be mixed in
relatively small batches to avoid unnecessary waste. The most
common resin/catalyst/accelerator formula calls for about 2 %
catalyst and accelerator by weight.

Room temperature has an effect on curing time, with the time

speeding up on a hot day, and slowing down on a cold day. When a
bucket of pure resin is mixed with catalyst and accelerator at the 2 %
basis, it will start to set in about 40 mins. and cure completely in two
hours at 70 F. Using this as a reference, the builder can vary his
formula to suit his particular conditions.

The strongest combination of resin and fiberglass is about less

than 50 % resin by weight. The resin used in lay-up is air-inhibited
because it never fully cures in the presence of air. It stays tacky to
the touch and it is desirable when you are laminating several layers
of fiberglass. A finishing resin which is not air-inhibited is required
for the final layer coat to seal off the air. The waxy surface of the

5
finish resin can be wiped clean with acetone, or it can be sanded if
additional fiberglassing is needed. For small repair job, you can buy a
resin that works as a finish also as a laminating. Big job like a whole
body using the two-step system yields the best result.

6
How to Make Mock-Up and Molds

Mock-up

I f a special fiberglass body is desired, it can be made up from a

mold. This procedure is rather expensive and time consuming, but is
useful when more than one body is to be made.

Fig.3 Chassis is set un wuudcn planks

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 Fig.4 This buck is made of wood.

Mock-Up bases on original metal body - There must be some

kind of basis for the mold, and this becomes the mock-up (
something with a shape of desired). In many cases, original metal
bodies are usually used. The metal is straightened to perfect
condition, or it is possible to modify the contours with plaster and
bondo. This Mock-up is usually used to make female molds and
these female molds then make the final body. If the mock-up is
used as the male mold, the final body will be slightly larger and have
rough outer body finish that requires a lot of surface preparation.

Make Female molds from Mock-Up - Make sure there is no

dents or deep scratches on the mock-up, Prime the surface with a
polyester primer surfacer. Note: Do not sue lacquer-based primers
because the resin will melt lacquer materials. Sand the primed

8
grit paper. Wax the surface with mold release wax (such as Part-All
and Meguiar’s). Note: Regular car wax won’t work! Follow the
instruction for the release wax you buy. Wax three to six times and
make sure no spot is missed.

Next, spray on two or three very light coats of PVA (poly

vinyle acetate) over the wax area. This will ensure the mold not to
stick to the part we want to make.
Spray two or three heave coats of gel coat onto the mock-up. Gel
coat is a smooth, paint like material which will form the smooth
inside of the mold and become the surface of the female mold we
want to make.

Now, lay-up the first pre-cut pieces of the three-quarter-ounce

mat over the resin-coated surface. This first layer is the cosmetic
layer, which must be smooth and thoroughly free of bubbles. Use
roller to roll the bubbles out. Lay-up second and third layers using
one-and -a-half-ounce mat. Total of three layers is strong enough
for a mold that is intended for use only a few times ( Note: a
production mold which will be used to make 50 or more copies
should be about a quarter to half-inch thick).

Reinforce the fiberglass with wood frame (see Stiffen the

fiberglass ...). This reinforcement serves two major purposes: 1) The
mold won’t distort over time. 2) This framework will serve as a solid
base, which will prevent the mold from rolling around while you are
working with it.

9
 Use sharp putty knife and wooden wedges to help in removing
the mold. Now, you have completed the female mold!

Make Bodies - Making the fiberglass body will follow nearly the
same procedure in lay-up as in making the mold. Wax the mold with
parting agent. Spray two or three heavy coats of gel coat onto the
mock-up. About one ounce of gel coat is required to cover one square
foot area. The fiberglass fabric to be used in the body or parts lay-up
will be an open square weave, of about 8 ounces per square foot.
Laminating with layers of cloth alone would produce a rather flexible
body. Most kit car bodies are made of one layer of cloth, one or two
layer of matte (2 ounce per square foot), and a final layer of cloth.
In this sandwich, the cloth provides the strength and the matte
serves as bulk.

Fig.5 The sequence of lamination in a fiberglass body

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Parting Flanges - A full body will not normally pull form a muck-up.
Parting flanges are places so that the mold can be taken apart and
removed from the initial mock-up. Parting flanges made of plywood
or metal must be made to fit the mock-up precisely, before each
section of female mold is fiberglassed in place.

Fig.6 Parting fringes made of plywood need to be fit to the mock-up

Add Substructure - More bulk can make fiberglass body more

rigid. The extra laminations are add to areas need to stiffen the
body. Metal pieces or wood can be laminated to fiberglass to
reinforce the stress concentrated areas. Laying fiberglass over a
length of pvc pipe or garden hose to the inner face of body works

11
or honeycomb can be used under a hood, doors and a deck lid as core
material with fiberglass overlaid to form sandwich structure. The
sandwich makes body panels strong and light and also serves as good
sound insulation. These substructure should be added while the body
is still in female mold.
Fiberglass can not be bolted directly without a attached
substructure because the bolt will crush the small area around that
bolt. To allow the stress to spread in large area. ( see fig....)

Fig7 Fiberglass panel is stiffened with wood, foam or extra

lamination

Gluing the fiberglass - RSP is a urethane adhesive, it is mix 1:1

and will set in about three minutes, it glues two materials together
with or without pressure. This glue has the viscosity like water, but
it can be made into a paste by adding filler (sawdust, cement, etc.).
Follow the instruction by the manufacturer. RSP should be available
in your local fiberglass or plastic suppliers.

12
Moldless Sandwich Method

For making only one body with the least amount of material
and time, fiberglass is directly lay-up on a mock-up made of foam
which will be crushed and removed after the fiberglass body is
cured. The foam mock-up is consisted of layers of crossecdonal foam
templates glued together ( 1 to 2 inches thick) to create the desired
body shape. The foam mock-up is carved and sanded to form smooth
contours. When the shape is satisfactory, a coat of plaster is applied
over the foam in order to form the final smooth surface. This mock-
up will not be used in producing female mold, instead it’s used as a
disposable male mold. As a male mold, it does not produce the
outside surface of the final body, therefore it does not need to be
filled and sanded to achieve the perfect surface. Since this is a
disposable mold, there is no need to use release wax on the mock-up
There is no need to consider how the final body will pull from the
mock-up because the foam mock-up will be crushed and removed.
However, the outer surface of the final body will tend to have rough
outer body finish that requires a lot of surface preparation.

13
Step One - Trace the outside line on tracing paper with a centerline,
and cut off foam board using the paper as templates. The body
contour can be a totally new design or can be taken from a small
model, enlarged to one-one scale.

Step Two - A mock-up is created by gluing these foam contours

together with all centerlines aligned on one straight line.

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Step Three - The foam mock-up is carved and sanded to form
smooth contours. Fill the dents and fix the shapes with plaster as
necessary.

Step Four - Lay-up fiberglass with one layer of cloth, one or two
layer of matte, and a final layer of cloth. Spray a thick coat of gel coat
on the final layer.

15
Step Five - After the fiberglass is cured, crush the remove the foam
mock-up underneath. Sand off remaining foam and plaster on the
inside surface. Add substructures as needed and coat the inside
surface with finish resin.

Step Six - Mount the fiberglass body on the chassis. Cut off doors,
hood, windows and etc. Mount doors and hood with hinges. Prepare
the surface for final finish.

16
How to Copy The Original Car Body
Use an original car as a mock-up without ruining its paint job.

Few years ago, in many cities, for about $300 to $400 a day
you can rent a Ferrari or a Lambourghini of your dream. While
many rented the dream cars for the thrill of once in the life time,
many borrowed the original cars to make body copies. Nowadays,
it’s much harder to find a place to rent those exotic cars. Anyway, if
you can get hold of one you like and want to make a female mold out
of it, you will find the female mold making method described
previously impossible. Obviously, you need to preserve the car in its
original shape (so you can return the car as if nothing has happened
to it). In this method, paper and white glue are used to substitute
fiberglass and resin to make the female mold.

Fig.9 Paper and glue are used to make female mold

17
 Wax the entire car including glasses with mold release wax
(such as Part-All and Meguiar’s). Note: Regular car wax won’t work!
Follow the instruction for the release wax you buy.
Do not use gel coat. Lay-up the pre-cut pieces of paper (newspaper,
cotton paper or any paper that contains a lot of fiber and able to be
soaked in water easily). Paper glue such as the white glue need to be
diluted with water so it can be applied with a brush. Laminate the
paper and glue to a thickness of about a quarter of a inch.

After the paper mold becomes really dry, which may take a
few days, reinforce the paper mold with two layers of fiberglass and
add wood frames. Release the mold from the original body. Now you
have completed the paper female mold.

The inside surface of paper female mold is not as smooth nor as

strong as gel coated fiberglass mold. Therefore it can only be used
once to produce a mock-up. This mock-up will again produce the
fiberglass female mold, and which makes the final body.

Make Mock-Up From Paper Mold - Prime the inside surface with
a polyester primer surfacer. Note: Do not sue lacquer-based primers
because the resin will melt lacquer materials. Wax the surface with
mold release wax (such as Part-All and Meguiar’s). Note: Regular car
wax won’t work! Follow the instruction for the release wax you buy.
Spray two or three heave coats of gel coat onto the mock-up. Gel
coat is a smooth, paint like material which will form the smooth

18
inside of the mold and become the surface of the female mold we
want to make.

Now, lay-up the first pre-cut pieces of the three-quarter-ounce

mat over the resin-coated surface. This first layer is the cosmetic
layer, which must be smooth and thoroughly free of bubbles. Use
roller to roll the bubbles out. Lay-up second and third layers using
one-and -a-half-ounce mat. Total of three layers is strong enough
for a mold that is intended for use only once or a few times. The
mock-up made from paper mold require a complete surface
preparation before it can be used to make female mold.

Make Female Molds from Mock-Up - Make sure there is no

dents or deep scratches on the mock-up, Prime the surface with a
polyester primer surfacer. Sand the primed surface with 400-grit
paper. Wax the surface with mold release wax (such as Part-All and
Meguiar’s). Wax three to six times and make sure no spot is missed.
Next, spray on two or three very light coats of PVA (poly
vinyle acetate) over the wax area. This will ensure the mold not to
stick to the part we want to make.
Spray two or three heave coats of gel coat onto the mock-up. Gel
coat is a smooth, paint like material which will form the smooth
inside of the mold and become the surface of the female mold we
want to make.

Now, lay-up the first pre-cut pieces of the three-quarter-ounce

mat over the resin-coated surface. This first layer is the cosmetic

19
layer, which must be smooth and thoroughly free of bubbles. Use
roller to roll the bubbles out. Lay-up second and third layers using
one-and -a-half-ounce mat. Total of three layers is strong enough
for a mold that is intended for use only a few times. ( Note: a
production mold which will be used to make 50 or more copies
should be about a quarter to half-inch thick)
Reinforce the fiberglass with wood frame (see Stiffen the fiberglass
...). This reinforcement serves two major purposes: 1) The mold
won’t distort over time. 2) This framework will serve as a solid base,
which will prevent the mold from rolling around while you are
working with it.

Use sharp putty knife and wooden wedges to help in removing

the mold. Now, you have completed the female mold!

Make Bodies - Making the fiberglass body will follow nearly the
same procedure in lay-up as in making the mold. Wax the mold with
parting agent. Spray two or three heave coats of gel coat onto the
mock-up. About one ounce of gel coat is required to cover one square
foot area. The fiberglass fabric to be used in the body or parts lay-up
will be an open square weave, of about 8 ounces per square foot.
Laminating with layers of cloth alone would produce a rather flexible
body. Most kit car bodies are made of one layer of cloth, one or two
layer of matte (2 ounce per square foot), and a final layer of cloth.
In this sandwich, the cloth provides the strength and the matte
serves as bulk.

20
How to Copy The Body Kits

The body kits you purchase may be one large piece or several
pieces. They are usually not rigid enough to make accurate female
molds. Therefore these body or body pieces need to be pre-mounted
on the car chassis.

Fig. 10 F-40 body kits pre-mount to a chassis

Once the mock-up is set up, apply release-wax on the gel cost
surface. Wax three to six times and make sure no spot is missed.
Wax three to six times and make sure no spot is missed.
Spray two or three heave coats of gel coat onto the mock-up. Gel
coat is a smooth, paint like material which will form the smooth
inside of the mold and become the surface of the female mold we
wan i to make.

21
 Now, lay-up the first pre-cut pieces of the three-quarter-ounce
mat over the resin-coated surface. Tins first- layer is Lhe cosmetic
layer, which must be smooth and thoroughly free of bubbles. Use
roller to roll the bubbles out. Lay-up second and third layers using
one-and -a-half-ounce mat. Total of three layers is strong enough
for a mold that is intended for use only a few times. ( Note: a
production mold which will be used to make 50 or more copies
should be about a quarter to half-inch thick)

Reinforce the fiberglass with wood frame (see Stiffen the

fiberglass ...). This reinforcement serves two major purposes: 1) The
mold won’t distort over time. 2) This framework will serve as a solid
base, which will prevent the mold from rolling around while you are
working with it.

Use sharp putty knife and wooden wedges to help in removing

the mold. Now, you have completed the female mold!

Fig. 11 Finished one-piece fiberglass body

22
Finishing and Painting Fiberglass

After all the bodywork is complete, a sparkling paint job will

make the difference between an ordinary-looking car and a prime
show-stopper. A good paint job requires time consuming body
preparation. The secret is in the body filler and sanding.

Grind Seams - A fiberglass body just came out of mold has a lot
moid release seams on the surface. These seams must be removed by
grinding with a soft pad and 9-inch round, 40 grit disc paper. The
soft pad will conform to the rounded shapes and contours of the
body. Do not grind through the gel coat, exposit the fiberglass
strands.

Apply Filler- After all the seams are smoothed out, wipe off all the
dust. Use body fillers for fiberglass body, such as Tack Free from
Fiberglass Evercoat ( this gives better result than Bondo which is
good for metal body). Apply filler with a plastic spreader over areas
as needed.

23
File Filler - As the filler become harden and before it completely
cures, file over the filler with a Surform blade (most pro bodyman
use a 8- to 10-inch curved Surform blade). Rather than pouching the
file, use it in a drawing or pulling fashion for greater control.
Carefully level the entire area just filled with your hand to find the
high spots and shave them down.

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Block Sanding - This sanding will assure you that the surface will be
smooth as well as level. The desired effect is to crosshatch the entire
surface of the filler until it is level. Different body panels require
different tools. A rounded, convex surface requires a 6-inch block,
while a half-round block is needed for a concave one. For flat panels
use a long board, and all edges should be finished with a 6-inch
block.

Hand Sanding - Use 40-grit paper lor initial sanding because it’s
coarse and quickly removes high spots for better contouring of the
panels. Then, repeat the process with 80-grit paper.

25
Spray Primer - Wipe the panel clean before spraying. For fiberglass
surfaces, a catalyzed primer with sealer is preferred. First, spot-
spray the filled areas, apply three coat s of primer to these sections.
Allow time for flash-off between each coat. Flash-off is the time
required for the thinner to dry, leaving the surface tack-free (not
sticky to the touch). After completing this priming phase, allow the
body to dry overnight. Continue block sanding the entire body until
no shiny spots remain. Next, hand sand the entire body with 120-
grit in order to remove scratches left by the 80-grit paper. Wipe off
dust and apply two to three coats of catalyzed primer over the entire
body, allowing it to flash between applications. Again, allow it to dry
overnight.

Spray Guide Coat - Of all the tricks used by professionals to

achieve the perfect panel, the guide coat is probably the best.
However, it requires patience and the desire to achieve a perfect
panel. Guide coat is a light, speckled layer of primer. When the guide
coat is dry, gently block the panel with a long-board fitted with 220-
grit paper. This will quickly reveal the high spots because the guide-
coat is sanded away, leaving only the primer. Conversely, paint will
remain in the low spots. Continue block sanding until all of the guide
coat is removed. If any low spots remain, build them up with
additional primer, putty or, if the low spot is excessive, filler. Repeat
the guide-coat, sanding and filling processes until there are no high
or low spots.

26
Wet Sanding - Use 400-grit paper and wet sand with a block. Wet
sanding makes the job easier, reducing the amount of dust, and
achieves a more paintable surface. You may want to spray a static-
resistant coating because fiberglass body tends to build up static
electricity. Prior to spray the topcoat of paint, the body should be
blown off in every little corner to remove all dust and primer
residue. Then, carefully wipe the entire body with a damp, lint-free
towel. Mask off all surface that will not be painted.

Paint - There are three type of paint; urethane, lacquer, and enamel.
Lacquer is more forgiving but requires many coats. Enamel required
fewer coats yet dries slowly. Urethane is the most scratch-resistant
and durable, with a better gloss than enamel, but it is more toxic and
costs more. While painting, start with a light base coat, and then add
two or three heavier coats with an even, sweeping motion. Be sure
to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on drying time between
coats. After adding the color coats, you can immediately apply the
clear coats. Allow the paint to cure prior to color-sanding and
buffing. Wet-sand with 1000-grit, and then once more with 2000-
grit. For buffing, use a super heavy-duty rubbing compound with a
wool pad, then use a micro-finishing compound with a final-finish
pad. Shine the finish with a bit of glaze or wax, and you are done.

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FIBERBODY DESIGN, INC.
P.O. Box 741195
Houston, TX 77274

First printed in 1995

Copyright by David Hollmann 1995