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FEATURES
DEPARTMENTS
EDITORIAL, CIRCULATION A N D ADVERTISING OFFICES: 74-109 Larrea St., Palm Desert, California 92260. Telephone Area Code
714 346-8144. Listed in Standard Rate and Data. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: United States, Canada and Mexico; 1 year, $5.00; 2 years,
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July, 1975
your . A Peek
.metal in the I n Sens§
Ton
locator Publisher's i si
Poke
obsolete! E ACH ISSUE of Desert Magazine is de-
signed to bring a variety of articles
1. Draw poker is the best game of
chance for that Saturday night
game?
PRECISION'S MARKS to a diversified readership. Every effort True • False •
MAKES IT SO; is made to balance the book so that there
Now Precision gives you the better locator will be something of interest for everyone 2. You have to go to Las Vegas to
to do the jobs demanded by today's no matter what their avocation. Because get real action?
sophisticated prospector and treasure the Southwest has become so popular, in True • False •
hunter. the past emphasis has been placed on off-
Heres why beat and off-road areas. This month we 3. Roulette is the most unpredict-
it's better. able game of chance?
feature two different ways of enjoying
True • False •
this land we love so much via riverboat
• Truetone and a narrow gauge railway!
loudspeaker. 4. Dice is the wildest and most
• Sensitive F. A. Barnes, takes us on a riverboat, wooly game of chance?
indicating meter. the Canyon King, out of Moab, Utah and True • False •
• 7" search tells how this vessel came into being.
loop.
• Battery Enid Howard paints a word picture of 5. The new game 'Bushwhacker"
tester. the fun and nostalgia in a 68-mile train is the most exciting, wildest,
• Ground ride through some great areas of New and u n p r e d i c t a b l e game of
control. chance invented since cards
Mexico and Colorado. and dice?
• T-R circuit.
Mary Frances Strong's field trip finds True D False •
• Metal-Mineral us in the Trinity Range near Lovelock,
control. Nevada and Helen Walker brings us her If your answer was True to any but
• Telescoping version of the archeological find of the Number 5, your fun sense is run-
shaft. west, the Lovelock Caves. ning down. Join thousands who
• Space age have sparked their fun sense to an
headphones Back in California, George Pfleger all-time high by playing "Bush-
• Vernier has a puzzle for us in the mysterious ruins whacker," the game of chance that
tuning. found in Holcomb Creek and stirs the makes even losing fun!
• 2 year juices of treasure hunters.
guarantee.
Headers
All books reviewed are available through
Tours in
Canyonlands Nafional Park
Desert Magazine Book Shop • ISLAND IN THE SKY • WASHERWOMAN
• WALKING ROCKS • MONUMENT BASIN
MINES
OF Tours near
JULIAN Canyonlands National Park
By • ARCHES NATIONAL PARK
• ONION CREEK • HURRAH PASS
Helen Ellsbe>t>
• GEMINI BRIDGES • ROCKHOUNDING
some 20 years after the better known gold Moab Rock Shoo. 137 N. Main. Moab. Utah 84532 SLIDE SHOW
rush to the Mother Lode Country. The Phone (801) 253-5121 for Reservations Nightly, 8 p.m.
•
Frontier Days
The origin of the Lovelock Fron-
tier Days Celebration runs a parallel
m to the founding of the town of
Lovelock — a handful of people
striving for the achievement of
something beneficial to future gen-
erations.
In August of 1868 George Love-
Opposite page: Across the paved road, dirt tracks lead
lock Sr. granted some property for
down into the canyon where colorful opalite and agate
a right-of-way to the Central Pa-
will be found. Left: Opalite occurs in massive deposits.
cific Railroad and the township of
The material in this one is a soft, pastel lavender shade.
Lovelock began.
One hundred years later the
LEGACY
Chamber of Commerce approached
Pat Rowe and Elaine Pommerening,
by two of George Lovelock Sr.'s great-
great granddaughters to head a
Mary Frances committee for a Lovelock Centen-
Strong nial Celebration.
The three-day celebration was
when he saw the great river during one Due to the increasing number of people fashioned from activities of the past
of his expeditions in the 1840s. traveling the Emigrant Trail, George and included a parade, beef bar-b
Originally known as Big Meadows," Lovelock decided to build a station and que, mucking contest, children's
the Lovelock area was a welcome rest stop supply point on his ranch property at Big games, park concessions, Indian
along the emigrant trail. Many pioneers Meadows in 1862. When the Central Pa- pageant, Kangaroo Court, and
camped here for long periods of time cific Railroad was brought through the beard and old-fashioned dress con-
while they prepared their wagons for the region in 1867, the small settlement which tests.
dreaded crossing of the ill-famed Forty had sprung up was officially designated Due to the interest and co-opera-
Mile Desert. The lush meadows and ample Lovelock. tion of the town people and nearby
water gave both man and livestock a In these early days, the Humboldt River communities and the huge success
chance to store energy for the grueling ran free and clear as it meandered down of the celebration itself, it was de-
push across barren wasteland that seemed the long valley. During the seasons of cided that an annual family affair
to have been created by the devil himself. drought it shrank to a mere trickle but of the same nature should be held.
became a raging, destructive torrent in The Frontier Days Celebration
periods of heavy rainfall—bringing feast has increased in size and interest
or famine to the ranchers along its route. with an attempt at an added attrac-
In 1908, Rye Patch Dam was completed tion each year. In 1969 the Hard-
and the river lost its freedom. Today, the Rock Drilling with cash prizes was
river's water is .stored and supplies regu- a featured attraction, in 1970 an
lar irrigation for over 10,000 cultivated antique bottle show and sale and
acres in the fertile valley. flea market was added, in 1971 the
Rye Patch Dam State Recreational Area, addition of a big name country
22 miles northeast of Lovelock, provides singer was featured and gold-pan-
vacationers with a site where camping, ning was introduced and the Basque
fishing, swimming and boating may be Contests and dancing was added in
enjoyed in a desert setting. Camping 197.
spaces include tables, grills, fireplaces and It is the intention of the Love-
sanitary facilities. The fee is St.00 per lock Frontier Days Committee to
night with a two-week limit. Trailers up to continue the hard work and to so-
25-feet can be accommodated. licit new workers and new interests
Back-country explorers will find many in the years to come.
points of interest around Lovelock which
July, 1973
miles north of Lovelock.
Diatomite is a siliceous sedimentary
A Gem Field in the Trinity Range rock consisting mainly of the fossilized
Pershing County, Nevada remains of diatoms, a form of micro-
cellular organisms. Many sedimentary
rocks contain diatom remains but the
term "diatomite" is restricted to material
of quality and purity suitable for commer-
cial uses. Pure diatomite is composed of
opaline and hydrous silica and most de-
posits contain a high amount of free
water.
The diatomaceous beds in this region
were deposited in a large, fresh-water
basin during the late Tertiary Period be-
fore the present mountains were formed.
These organisms have the ability to ex-
tract silica from the water in which they
live and biologically precipitate it to form
their shells. Such skeletal accumulations,
formed at the bottom of lakes and seas,
range in thickness from a few feet to
as much as 8000 feet or more.
Large diatomite deposits are usually
associated with volcanic formations. Most
geologists believe that some source of
soluble silica is necessary over long
periods of time in order to form beds of
significant thickness. If you are interested
in examining diatomite, stop at the quarry
make easy, one-day trips. Two great moun- Western Avenue heads straight for the at the end of the road. At the time of
tain ranges, the Trinity and the Humbodlt, Trinity Mountains and in 2.6 miles the our visit it was not being used nor was
form the valley's east-west boundaries. paving turns right and curves around Lone it posted.
Within their confines are several mining Mountain. Then, after a sharp left turn, The rock collecting area is 7.4 miles
camps more than a century old—Arabia it heads for the hills. The next nine miles west of the Seven Troughs-Sulphur Road
(discovered by George Lovelock in 1859), climb a gentle grade into the mountains. at the base of a sharp-topped, lava-capped
Rabbit Hole (1850s) and Rochester The paving turns west at the junction peak—at a point where the road turns
(1860s). Interesting camps of the early of the Seven Troughs-Sulphur Road (duly abruptly south. On the right, a sizeable
1900s include Seven Troughs, Vernon, marked on the right) and continues pull-out area provides a good campsite.
Farrell and Scossa to name but a few. through the lava-capped peaks. From time See map for detailed mileages. There was
Most of these sites are shown on the to time, you may encounter heavy ore- a fire ring and a refuse can when we
Pershing County Map. laden trucks roaring down the road. They camped here. No water or wood is avail-
Bottle and artifact collectors generally will be hauling from several diatomaceous able.
have good luck in this region. There are earth quarries of the Eagle-Pitcher Mining There are two collecting areas—one
also several fine rock collecting areas. One Company. Mine property is clearly posted on each side of the road. North of the
of these—the Trinity Gem Field—is less "No Trespassing." campsite a two-track road will be seen
than 20 miles northwest of Lovelock and Numerous beds of diatomite occur leading up across a saddle. Small speci-
is reached via a paved road! throughout the Trinity Range and some mens of petrified woods will be found
There is usually a "Main Street" in of them have been mined intermittently along the slopes from this point to the
most small towns and this is where our since the 1900s. The large Eagle-Pitcher paved road. It is of light colorj—white,
held trip begins. In the center of Love- operation began in 1958 and reportedly beige, tan and brown with some centers
lock turn west on Main Street and go one shipped 2000 carloads annually. There of deep brown and others almost white.
block. The street ends at the County are hundreds of uses for diatomite and The most sought-after limb sections have
Courthouse Square. (Incidentally, there product specifications are extremely ex- a clear, chalcedony heart with outer rings
is a fine, shaded picnic area on the court- acting and complicated. Eagle-Pitcher has of yellow, red or golden brown. The
house grounds.) Jog left on Dartmount a been strip-mining filter-grade diatomite annular rings of the wood show very
few yards then turn right on Western Ave- from deposits containing relatively minor clearly. All the specimens we have col-
nue which runs between the courthouse contamination. The ore was processed in lected are of small size—one to three
and a Safeway store. their modern plant at Colado Siding, 25 inches in length and girth. They are
10 Desert Magazine
of good quality and take a fine polish. Regardless of your interests, you will
However, they are not too plentiful. have an exceptionally rewarding vacation
JEEP OWNERS. CAMPERS . H U N T E R S . FISHERMEN
Agate and jasper also occur in this area in Lovelock, if it is planned to coincide THINGS YOU'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR
and several diggings will be seen. with their Frontier Days Celebration. You AND SOME YOU'VE NEVER SEEN!
A short distance south of the camp- will find yourself stepping back in time FLOTATION TIRES
&
ground, across the paved road, a 4WD to the days of pioneers and prospectors. WHEELS
trail leads down into the canyon. It is In spirit, you will be joining the stalwart UNIQUE
OFF-ROAD
passable for pickups in dry weather. In breed of men and women who found the &
less than a tenth of a mile you will see courage to journey through an almost un- CAMPING
EQUIPMENT!
several excavations in an opalite deposit known land to open the west. Let's all
on the south. Digging is required to ob- head for the Humboldt Valley and Love- TEND riinnv INI:I iinr ZIP CODE!
tain the best materials which occurs in lock's Frontier Days.
soft, pastel shades of pink, chartreuse,
beige, red and purple.
"See yuh thar, Pardner!" DICK GEPEK 9101 coufORNio AV( D e p t
SOUTH GATE CALIFORNIA 90280
D
July, 1973
11
ITH METAL detectors buzzing,
by
Dan McCarthy
W treasure seekers comb the South-
west in growing numbers amid yester-
year's off-road communities. Brass buttons
surface around abandoned military posts.
An old pick-ax is unearthed in soil at a
desolate, abandoned mine. Square nails are
pocketed with mementoes recovered in a
long-quieted village.
But nobody needs a detector to discover
some of the most fascinating, historic met-
al now a celebrated part of America's
desert in Arizona.
Out Lake Havasu City way, where leg-
Left: This artistic, endary London Bridge spans a mile-long
vintage lamppost, Colorado River channel instead of the
is one of 14 spaced River Thames, some Old World treasured
across famed metal is found. It is part of a tourist attrac-
London Bridge at tion that cost $2,460,000 to buy from the
Lake Havastt City. City of London (plus another fantastic
Opposite page: This bundle of shipping and reconstruction
Old World treasure, money).
London Bridge, The entire project cost $8,400,000 to
blends in well with relocate and rebuild on American soil
desert mountains the 10,000 tons of Aberdeen and Haytor
for a backdrop. granite quarried in Scotland.
Desert Magazine
A bit oj Britain basks in Arizona was settling into the Thames one inch Just at bridgeside is the $1,600,000
sunshine, with Lake Havasu every eight years. That's one of the reasons English Village. Take time out for fish
in the distance. why London officials put it on the auction and chips amid Ye Olde Merrie England
block and sifted through 100 worldwide atmosphere beneath one of the arches.
bids before the span came to the United To the northeast are the distant Mo-
States. have Mountains where many a prospector
Fourteen old-fashioned green lamp- Stand at the northeast end of the bridge labored for years looking for, and some-
posts, spaced along the 1,005-foot span, while taped chimes of Big Ben stroke the times finding, the "gold in them, thar
once were shaped into cannons for war- hours. Across the colorful flowerbeds and hills."
fare. And no less a military expert than manicured grass to the parking lots, pick- Can't you just imagine, if the clock
Napoleon Bonaparte himself led French up campers and recreational vehicles of could be turned back to those pioneering,
troops against England to fire those can- many styles are braked. Out come people prospecting days, what one of those op-
non during the 1815 battle at Waterloo. who have been wandering about the timistic old sourdoughs would have said
Sixteen years after Napoleon's Water- southwest, stopping to probe gem stone or done, had he come around a draw to
loo, William IV and Queen Adalaide in- sites, adventurers who have meandered find London Bridge right smack out there
vited 1,500 guests to dine with them dur- among ruins of ghost towns, would-be on the desert ?
ing the 1831 dedication ceremonies of the prospectors pausing at an old mine site. He might have murmured aloud that
new bridge. Their evening was illumi- Perhaps, just maybe, there's still that at long last the sun was getting to him and
nated by artistic lampposts originally cast bonanza vein of ore to be discovered. he was glory-bound to eternity. Why, they
into weapons of war. By the thousands visitors are drawn to even rolled out that strange old bridge
London Bridge's fame is worldwide. the bridge. During the first year after its to carry him across to his reward.
Shakespeare had crossed the predecessor elegant, very-British dedication on Oc- "Git up, there, you old flea-ridden
of the Arizona bridge often to reach Globe tober 10, 1971, some 750,000 visitors desert canary! Trot over there and let's
Theatre. And there's that nursery rhyme walked the famed span, or drove across see what that thing's all about. Git up,
about it falling down. Actually, the bridge it at slow speeds. now! Git!" []
-itJUHr
4:
'." *> i
4 , *
OT TOO many years ago, in the San
N Bernardino Mountains of Califor-
nia, a prospector was working along
rugged Holcomb Creek in quest of his
fortune, a dream that had not yet been
realized.
Panning some gravel from the creek
bottom, an occupation which until that
day had been no more than a repetitious,
mechanical and fruitless pastime, he dis-
covered there was more than the usual
amount of color in the bottom.
The discovery site, a few yards down-
stream from a deep, dark, water-eroded
hole in the canyon was worth checking
further. Right now it was time to rest
and contemplate possibilities of sudden
wealth.
Propped against the trunk of a small
tree he felt the weariness slowly seep
out of his bones and his tired muscles
gradually relax.
Like all prospectors before him, only
his body rested, his eyes continued to
by George Pfleger
scan the gravel in the creek, the sand,
rocks and hillside.
High on the side of the mountain
something stood out, which was not con-
sistent with the natural formation of
things. It seemed to be a man-made wall
and his curiosity, which could only be
satisfied by a closer look, quickly won
the battle and he dragged himself to his
feet. Overby in white
Climbing the forty-five degree slope to shirt, Schoose
the construction took only a few minutes kneeling, and
and he was rewarded for his labors when McCollogh on
he mounted the six-foot high parapet. the walkway
Following the wall a short distance to which may have
some huge boulders, he discovered a small been built by
natural defensive position, which had been Spaniards. The
improved by man, facing the creek below. boulder behind
Digging around inside the main shel- men forms roof
ter, he wondered at the mystery of who of fort.
put the place together and when, until
his discovered a few Spanish coins. He walls in the vicinity of Holcomb Creek. Knowing I was a prospector, treasure
figured he had discovered some sort of old The men in the jeep went on to describe hunter and writer, the discoverers of the
Spanish fort. the walls and called them the "Lost Span- old ruins presented the full story and told
After spreading the story of his ish Fort." of the help they needed. They questioned
discovery the prospector seems to have dis- The three prospectors could scarcely how and where to look for the treasure,
appeared. He described the place as being contain themselves when their discovery could the author use his metal detector
located three miles west of Hanna Flats. was described perfectly by the fort hunt- to find the golden goodies and also, I
The alleged facts of this story have since ers. However, calm was maintained while was to write their story.
grown to include Indian attacks and treas- they posed a few questions of their own Happy to accept the invitation, a rende-
ure in the form of gold bullion, which and were told research had turned up in- vous was agreed upon and I followed the
the Spaniards were unable to carry and formation that the Spaniards mined gold prospectors to their mining camp (they
hurriedly concealed before fleeing. there long ago and had constructed a are actually involved in gold mining)
The legend of a Spanish fort and its prospective stronghold to ensure their where we loaded our equipment aboard
gold mine has fascinated treasure hunters safety. Severe Indian attacks had event- a pick-up truck.
and prospectors for decades and some have ually caused them to suddenly evacuate Some had to ride in the bed of the
journeyed down Holcomb Creek from the area, abandoning the gold they had truck which proved to be very uncomfort-
Hanna Flats. In all cases they just walked mined and melted into bars. able. I, as the honored guest, rode in the
right past without realizing it might be
so close at hand, assuming this to be the
fortress described above.
Not so for prospectors Cliff Overby,
Bob Schoose, and Jake McCullough of
Big Bear Lake, Calif., they are a trio of
sharp-eyed miners. While prospecting the
area they spotted these same walls and to
them, being untrained in archeology, it
appeared to be something the Indians
built. They continued with their prospect-
ing chores without giving it any more
thought, but kept it in the back of their
minds.
About a month later the same rugged
mountaineers were visitors at the U. S.
Forest Service Station a few miles east
of Fawnskin on the north shore of the A solid section
lake, when several young men riding in of the path
a jeep came and asked the rangers on duty which was built
if they knew of some crumbling stone so long ago.
July, 1973
co-pilots seat with the camera, metal de- iard, was irritating to the friends and speed, obliterating any indication of hu-
tector and cold beer, which was refresh- relatives of those enslaved and usually man activity.
ing and also helped smooth out some of resulted in the attacks that led to their The deep part of the creek at the base
the roughest spots in the road through being driven from the area. of the narrow falls looked like a logical
the forest which was extremely primitive Tuning in the new metal detector took hiding place for any gold ditched by the
and poorly maintained, being negotiable some doing since there was no time to Spaniards. It is about ten feet deep under
'only by jeeps and the amazing vehicle practice with it previously and even after the falls and very dark, a perfect place
in which we rode. we did familiarize ourselves with its tem- for someone to throw gold bars and other
Stopping on a curve high above the peramental moods, nothing containing treasures when being harassed by irate
creek we dismounted and slid, fell, stumb- metal could be located. This is under- aborigines with no time to waste on dig-
led and rolled down the south slope to standable since in the days when the ging holes. A thorough search of the
the bottom, a distance of about one hun- alleged Spanish fort was operational, any- area failed to turn up artifacts or even
dred yards. thing made of metal was essential to the treasure signs which the Spaniards usually
The construction was pointed out and survival and comfort of its owner. Who left when forced to abandon a. rich lo-
we clawed up the north side of the can- would be so careless as to lose a knife, cation.
yon to the site. The wall visible from be- buckle, sword, pistol, cup, gun, fork, The day was coming to a close and af-
low proved to be a built-up catwalk run- etc., when the nearest source of replace- ter a tortuous climb back up to the truck
ning about two hundred feet in opposite ment might be over 200 miles away or affectionately dubbed "The Moff," we
directions from a central-like structure, many days travel and usually purchased loaded our gear and bounced back to
the interior of which measured approxi- at an extremely high price? camp, three miles up the creek. Upon
mately twenty feet long and six feet wide, The walled enclosure itself now filled arrival, it was discovered, the three pros-
being "L" shaped with a solid stone roof with soil that has washed in through the pectors wives were ready with a charcoal
which consisted of a single boulder rest- back entrance covers any possible artifacts fire and a stack of* thick steaks which
ing on three others. It can be assumed to a depth of several hundred feet making were immediately set out to broil.
that the above mentioned catwalks were electronic detection of very, small objects It was two weeks before we could
used by overseer-guards to assure that the like coins impossible. make another concentrated effort to dis-
Indian slaves working the placer mine be- The placer site below shows no sign cover the gold cache or whatever might
low would be more inclined to work than of ever having been worked, for during have been left behind by the long de-
escape. heavy rains and the spring thaw the water parted inhabitants. However, the miners
This enslavement, which was the cus- has to squeeze through the narrows at did find a few hours of free time to dig
tomary labor practice of the early Span- this point, causing it to move at a deadly around in the stone shelter and came up
with a small gold nugget, definite proof
of the purpose of the fortification.
We all got together as planned in the
middle of September and made another
expedition to the diggings, this time
taking along both of my detectors.
As before, the machines failed to turn
up any metal objects, not even tin cans.
However, we did notice an extension of
the catwalks along a short distance up-
stream, but on the south side of the creek
heading in an easterly direction. The built-
up path extended for a distance of about
five hundred feet and it overlooked the
wide gravel beds along the creek.
Here was evidence of a camp having
been utilized for years. Two old cedar
trees about five feet in diameter were
used for a fireplace and a hole large
enough to crawl through was burned into
the base of one.
This new find extended the mining
£«^
Holly Shannon looks into an active steam vent, one of several on Paoha.
tain's sides, she relented a little and al- he complained of Paoha's silence and
lowed to its peak to remain free in the sun- solitude. Through his jaded eyes, the is-
light, and she sent to it her white birds land's landscape was "dead," "dismal"
of hope and promise. even "forbidding."
Although geologists have developed a However, he did recall one bright, pic-
complex and more scientific explanation, turesque spot. It was the island's only
based on extensive studies of the Mono tree—a small, graceful pine whose
Basin, their theory and the Indian legend branches were kept perpetually moist by
do agree on certain basic facts. The lake the mist from a nearby steam vent.
first appeared during the glacial ages, and It gave me an eerie feeling when, sev-
many of the prominent geological fea- eral summers ago during our own explor-
tures of the basin, including the islands, ations of the island, we happened upon
July, 1973 19
that same pine, the only one on Paoha. Island. goats. Their house burned in the early
Now no longer small, it is a sturdy 30 or They camped there until the union 1930s, but the goat barn, with its double
40 feet tall, but its branches were still members, finding them gone, had time row of stalls, still stands.
wrapped in a veil of steam. to cool down and returned to Bodie. The But the strangest buildings are over
In 1881, Paoha served as a temporary- Chinese continued building the railroad the ridge on the eastern side of the island.
refuge for a group of Chinese laborers, until it was within several miles of Bodie. Nestled against the hill, now almost
thus perhaps averting a bloody battle along Then they were released and the job was hidden by the encroaching bitterbrush,
Mono's eastern shore. finished by a crew of Bodie's union men. are three dome-shaped, concrete cabins.
The Chinese had been employed to lay During the early years of this century, They front on a broad, white sand beach,
the tracks for the 32-mile railroad which the Mono Basin experienced a minor eco- which curves around into a crescent shape
was to connect Mono Mills, south of nomic boom. There were indications of creating a natural harbor, for this is the
Mono Lake, to the mining camp of Bodie, oil—black gold—and slumbering Paoha lee side of the island where the wind
located in the treeless mountains north suddenly became a hub of excitement. usually blows down off the snowy peaks
of the lake. Work was begun at Mono Lumber was barged from the railroad of the Sierras.
Mills and proceeded northward. siding at Warm Springs on the lake's This was to have been a sanatorium,
When word reached members of the eastern shore. A derrick was erected on the dream of a doctor from Southern
Miners' Union in Bodie that Chinese la- the island's southern tip and in 1909 California. The location seems ideal, re-
bor was being used, an angry delegation drilling began. However, the project was mote and quiet. Nearby are several min-
set out, on foot, to meet the railroad abandoned a year later. The well had eral springs where you can have your
and protest the employment of Chinese. reached a depth of 1500 feet but the choice of hot or cold water. But: we were
By this time the rails had been laid to only gusher was hot water. told the project was abandoned before it
the lake's eastern shore and the Chinese Paoha's silence and solitude, that was really began. In the jungle of bitterbrush
were camped nearby. But the superinten- so depressing to Mark Twain, has been we found the rusted skeleton of a doc-
dent received word of the impending an attraction to others. For awhile, the tor's examining table. In one of the cabins
trouble in time to load all the Chinese Wallace McPherson family lived on the was a doctor's leather bag, twisted and
and their supplies on the company's island, homesteading 160 acres on the shrunken from its years of exposure to
steamer, which had previously been used western side. They built a home with a the dry desert air.
to haul lumber across the lake, and magnificent view of the Sierra Nevadas, Some of the scenes for the Hollywood
transport them to the safety of Paoha and raised vegetables and Toggenburg swashbuckler, "Fair Winds to Java," were
shot at Mono Lake. The filming crew set
up their headquarters at Yates Harbor
CANYONLANDS CAMPARK
NEW AND MODERN CAMPGROUND
on Negit Island.
The script called for an erupting vol-
cano, so a plaster model was built on one
MOAB. UTAH
FOR RECREATION VEHICLES
AND TENTERS
of the nearby, small tufa islands. Fueled
by gallon-size jars of gasoline, it looked,
throughout the Mono Basin, like the
Dark One had finally escaped his millenia-
long imprisonment.
It has been more than twenty years
since the movie-makers have packed their
cameras and returned to Hollywood, but
the volcano and several other fragile props
FACILITIES
140 Spaces are still standing.
Landscaping Until now man's impact on the islands
Full Hookups
1 1 0 / 2 2 0 V. Electricity has been temporary, a transitory fling and
Tent Sites he was gone again. It has remained the
Grocery
Laundry
domain of the White Angel's birds, the
Recreation Room California gulls and other shore birds.
Dump Station
Gasoline Pumps
*:*&mmm During the nesting season, which be-
gins in June and extends through July,
FREE
Swimming Pool Negit and several nearby islets literally
Hot Showers on'• nearby jeef trail become one vast gull factory. The slightest
Tour Reservations - Many hiking and jejjb^ _±W •
Creekside Park trails out of Moab depression, when linked with a few feath-
ers and dried weeds, satisfies a gull's nur-
For Brochure or Reservations
Call or Write Agents for sery requirements, so almost every avail-
Canyonlands Campark NORTH AMERICAN RIVER EXPEDITIONS, INC. able spot of bare ground is utilized. Two
555 SOUTH MAIN featuring RIVER FLOAT TRIPS, or three speckled eggs are laid in each
MOAB, UTAH, 84532
(801) 259-6848 FOUR-WHEEL-DRIVE RENTALS nest. After hatching, the fluffy gull chicks
Desert Magazine
20
become cave dwellers among the many marine environment. A small colony of on the lee side of Paoha, one at the south-
crevices and under ledges of lava bould- avocets stakes its territorial claim to one ern tip, the other toward the northern
ers and tufa formations. of Paoha's secluded beaches, far from end of the island. If you are caught out
Throughout the summer, gulls, in vari- the raucous cries of the gulls, while rock in the middle when the wind begins, it's
ous stages of development, monopolize wrens and swallows take advantage of best to wait it out on Paoha. The wind
the Mono landscape. But in September, ready-made homesites within the islands' usually stops just as suddenly as it be-
the entire colony leaves its island homes abrupt cliffs of lava and tufa. However, if gan, and by late afternoon Mono is once
and wings westward to the coast. more water is not released into the lake, again serene and calm, her twin islands
Because of Negit's importance as a nest- eventually all of Mono's birds will face aglow in the last golden rays of sun-
ing site for the gulls, the island was re- a precarious future. light. . •
cently designated a natural area by the The outboard motor has replaced oars,
Bureau of Land Management. But just but otherwise it is not much easier to get
how long Negit will remain a sanctuary to the islands now than it was in Mark
where the gulls may nest undisturbed Twain's day. The receding lake has left
is seriously questioned. the Mono Marina's launching ramp high
During the past two decades, the lake's and dry, so that facility is now closed.
level has dropped drastically. The insati- There are no boat rentals at Mono Lake,
able thirst of the City of Los Angeles has but a small boat may be launched at just STOP THAT
caused most of the shrinkage. Water from about any place where it can be carried to THIEF WITH
several mountain streams that once poured the water. I OCKSTRAP
into the lake is now diverted to the Los However, a word of caution. Winds
A revolutionary new design
Angeles aqueduct. A recent survey con- can suddenly whip a mirror surface into secures all G.I. cans to itself.
cluded that in perhaps as few as three or a foaming froth. Throughout the years, Needs no carrier. Locks your
filler cap. All steel construc-
four years the receding waters will create Mono's alkaline waters have capsized sev- tion, bright zinc plated.
a land bridge between Negit and the eral large boats, sending a number of vic-
shore, thus opening this once wild island tims to its depths.
ft" $10.00
DEALER PLUS POSTAGE. 4 LBS.
to all predators, man and animal. In the summer and fall, the lake is INQUIRIES Send for FREE Brochure Showing
Caspian terns, killdeer, grebes, and most likely to be calm during the morn- INVITED. other Models to Fit Any Vehicle/
phalaropes are also attracted to Mono's ing hours. There are two good harbors \ 1 T 4 1 Witttey Rd. S.E,, Sotom, OR 9 7 3 0 2 /
• A Thousand-year Treasure or Gift • Sparks Conversation ON DISPLAY AT DESERT MAGAZINE BOOK SHOP
• Collector's Quality • An impervious Marble-like Material MAIL ORDER ONLY
• Picture Plaque, 71/2x71/2xl/2" • $10.00 each, postpaid. teenuu ifAvt /A e „• -J /- 1* • „,<««
^ for/ 60
Send
z
'- 'LWildlife Brochure >r r
Subject FRED W. KAYE, 3954 Agate Street, Riverside, California
California residents please add 92509
5% sales tax
July, 1973 21
by F. A. Barnes
P ADDLEWHEEL RIVERBOATS are a part
of American tradition. With the
advent of steam engines, these hard work-
ing enough fuel for such long voyages
was a problem.
The story of America's riverboats has
ing but glamorous craft evolved rapidly been told in book, song and poem, but
Captain Tex McClatchy in design, capacity and number until they this story began to end with the comple-
uses the giant ship's wheel carried a large proportion of America's tion of the vast railroad network that has
in the pilot house to freight and passengers along its coastal served this nation since the late 1800s.
steer the CANYON KING waters and vast inland waterways. A few Rail transportation was both cheaper and
on its maiden voyage. even plied the open seas, although carry- faster, and thus seemed to be dictating
the final chapter in the romantic and ad-
venturous tales of the paddlewheel boat.
Strangely, however, these powerful,
efficient workhorse craft, did not dis-
appear entirely from the American scene.
A few continued to ply western waters for
several decades into the nineteen hundreds.
Others continued to haul passengers and
freight on major midwest rivers. Even
now a big paddlewheel workboat does
daily duty for the U. S. Coast Guard in
Puget Sound.
But the few craft still in operation have
had difficulty in meeting stringent modern
safety standards and regulations. Excep-
tional and expensive measures have had
to be taken to keep alive some of the
older craft such as the Delta Queen.
Thus, for the most part, the very few
paddlewheel boats in operation today are
either drastically rebuilt old-timers, boats
newly built for limited or captive use in
movies and vacationlands, or powerboat
hulls clumsily converted to paddlewheel
power for tourist sightseeing ventures.
Within the last several decades, very few
paddlewheel boats have been designed
and built as such, and fewer still to mod-
ern safety standards.
Still, paddlewheel boats can do jobs
that more modern craft cannot. The Can-
yon King sternwheel riverboat, operating
Continued on Page 28
Desert Magazine
Negotiating Tanglefoot curve.
Photo by David Ogle.
AH other photos by
Tom Brown.
Narrow
Yesterday
by Enid C. Howard
HERE ARE thousands of people liv-
T ing in our country today who have
never traveled on a train! Never heard
the click-clickety clack of steel wheels on
rails, or heaiid that whistle blow for
a road crossing far out on the prairie,
Highlight your summer or watched a hundred-car freight train
vacation with a trip snake its way down a mountain side.
But the age of nostalgia is with us and
on a beautifully scenic memorabilia of the 1800's is fashionable.
narrow gauge railway line. Even such a weighty object as a 187,250-
Pass through magnificent pound narrow-gauge steam locomotive
is a subject of awe and curiosity for just
gorges, lunch at 10,000 feet. about anyone and particularly for Narrow - pose, so says Robert Keller, President, of
Bring home some great photos Gauge Railroad Club members. As much Scenic Railways Inc. He maintains that
as they would like to acquire their own pri- the external combustion processes, such as
and a bit of nostalgia. those used in steam boilers and gas tur-
vate collections, such large items of yes-
terday are a little difficult to handle. bines, produce an exhaust which is re-
Scenic Railways Inc. has solved the> markly free of pollutants if the fuel-to-
problem for clubs and everyone else by air ratio is correct. Robert Keller, Ph. D.,
operating narrow-gauge systems as recre- knows whereof he speaks, his special field
ational and sightseeing trips, and the de- is mechanical engineering design.
mand for tickets exceeds the supply. The How does a train stay on its tracks?
narrow-gauge lines are ideal for this pur- The answer is quoted from Bob Keller's
24 Desert Magazine
- Jtf* *
i>a6
•*•%<$*,
report, "Transportation for Recreation prime means of guidance. Primarily, guid- matically compensates for the effect of
Areas and Sensitive Environments," — A ance is accomplished by forming each the curve and allows the wheelset to
Review of Alternatives to the Private Au- wheel with a slight taper, the largest di- negotiate it without flange contact."
tomobile, published by Scenic Railways ameter being inboard. On curves, where One of Scenic Railways systems, The
Tnc. the outside wheel must travel further than Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad has
"Although well known when railway the inside wheel (while each makes ex- as colorful a history as any wild west
technology was new and expanding the actly the same number of revolutions due story ever written. The .Denver and Rio
means by which railway wheelsets follow to its rigid connection with the axle), Grande Western Railroad completed the
the track is not common knowledge to- the wheelset moves a small distance out- narrow-gauge tracks west from Alamosa,
day. The flanges on railway wheels do have ward on the curve. Thus the inside wheel Colorado, to Chama, New Mexico Terri-
an important role, but they are not the runs on a reduced diameter. This auto- tory, on January 1, 1881, later extended
July, 1973 25
•
ROUTE OF THE
A project of
SCENIC RAILWAYS INC.
CUMBRES A N D TOLTEC SCENIC RAILROAD P.O. Box 789
Chama, NM 87520
Between C h a m a , N e w Mexico
And Antonito, Colorado
Below: On the last leg of the westbound climb to Cumbres Pass. them to Durango and Silverton, Colorado.
Millions of dollars worth of ore, coal,
oil, timber, and livestock were hauled up
the 14 miles of 4% grade from Chama
to Cumbres Pass at 10,015 feet elevation,
then down the 1.42% drop to Antonito,
Colorado, thence to Alamosa and eastern
markets. It was possible then, to travel
from Denver through to Silverton in
thirty-one gruelling hours on what railroad
officials called the "San Juan Express,"
because its run ended at the San Juan
Mountains which dominated the country
and gave up rich silver ore to be shipped
east.
The transition from work horse rail-
, road to the more glamorous role of recrea-
tional transportation was not made with-
out anguish. When the Rio Grande an-
nounced on September 18, 1967 that they
had filed formal application with the
Interstate Commerce Commission to aban-
don the narrow-gauge between Alamosa,
Colorado, and Farmington, New Mexico,
the citizens of both states raised a howl
that let the ICC know just how they felt
about "their" railroad.
A tug-of-war between the people, the
Rio Grande, the ICC, and the two states
Desert Magazine
dragged out for three years. A group of
citizens who formed the "Colorado-New
Mexico Citizens Committee to Save the
Railroad," explored new and innovative
ideas to decide what course of action could
save at least part of the scenic narrow-
gauge line, but were dealt a low blow
when the ICC handed down the opinion
that the line, "was obsolete, and a misfit
facility and is inadequate to serve the
needs of the area."
Americans have ever been famous for
their know-how and can-do. "Save the
Narrow-Gauge" echoed over the land, and
the Crusade brought history buffs and
railroad fans to join the fight. Newspa-
pers kept tally on gains and losses. Final-
ly, the problem went before both state
legislatures and the miracle was struck.
Both states voted to jointly purchase the
64 miles of track between Chama and
Antonito.
On July 16, 1970 the Denver and Rio
Grande Western Railroad received $547,- Above: Crossing Cascade Creek trestle near Osier, Colorado. Below: Passenger stop
120 from two states, who were willy-nilly
at 10*015-foot Cumbres Pass shows old section house that was used recently in
in the railroad business, lock, stock, and
the filming of the movie "Showdown".
nine steam locomotives, with sundry an-
tique rolling equipment, repair shops, wa- dows and rest rooms, painters did their again." And they did—the first trial run
ter tanks and buildings on right-of-ways. thing in rich red paint on the outside of three months after the purchase on a crisp
A neat package all wrapped up in anti- the faded old box-cars. September morning in 1970, a gala oc-
quity ! Rejuvenation of "The Track of the casion for the workers and well-wishers
Rio Grande efficiency experts solemnly Cats" was the personal contribution of who gathered at every curve and cross-
predicted it would take three years and a hundreds of volunteers, not only of la- ing to cheer Engine 483, which was chris-
million dollars to put the railroad into bor, but in hard cash, because they wanted tened, "Chief Cat," on its way.
operational status. Not so—the first of- to "get the narrow-gauge on its wheels Continued on Page 40
ficial tourist run left Chama, N. M., June
26, 1971, nine months after the purchase!
By the end of the season in October, 9000
happy travelers had experienced the Cum-
bres and Toltec Railroad, or "The Track
of the Cats," as the people of New Mex-
ico and Colorado have affectionately
named "Their" railroad.
And who should have the better right to
affix an endearing name to the Narrow-
Gauge ?
When the two states took title to the
line, volunteers from every corner of the
states, and neighboring states, too, con-
verged on the 64 miles of track and
"cleaned house."
Weeds were chopped, rotten ties re-
placed, portions of the roadbed were re-
built, warped rails replaced. Professional
railroad employees, retired and not-re-
tired, worked long hours and week-ends on
the locomotives, tenders and shop equip-
ment. Carpenters and plumbers swarmed
over the box-cars installing plexiglass win-
July, 1973
Above: The CANYON KING was constructed beside the Colorado River, just three miles north of Moab,
Utah. At this point the hull was complete and work was progressing on the first deck and below-
deck installations. Right: The CANYON KING'S two decks were complete, the framework of the pilot
house was in place, and the big marine-diesel engine that powers the craft is being hoisted onto the
deck. Far right: The CANYON KING was actually pulled down its launch ramp by human-power. Some
800 local citizens participated in this operation by tugging on steel cables run through pulley blocks.
Continued jram Page 22 When the signal was given, everyone hauled away, and the 40-ton vessel slid down the ramp.
on the Colorado River out of Moab, Utah, which he later christened Canyon King. months from the time its keel" was laid.
is proof of this. Architectural details were worked out, It was structurally complete and its power
Way back in 1957, "Tex" McClatchy of steel by the ton was ordered, west coast system was installed and operational, but
Moab was dreaming of running commer- shipyards were searched for various items many details remained to be completed
cial boat tours on the highly scenic Colo- of equipment and a crew of experienced before the scheduled maiden voyage two
rado River. In those days, powerboating shipbuilders from Alaska was hired to weeks later.
on the Colorado was considered a pas- build the basic vessel. The Canyon King is not the first pad-
time only for eccentrics. But Tex did By early April, the basic structure of dlewheeler to ply the Colorado River near
more than dream—he studied the stretch the Canyon King was complete. Moab Moab, but is the first excursion boat, and
of river he wanted to run, and he ex- workmen then took over, hurrying to the first even approaching its size. The 93-
perimented with various types of boats ready the boat for the coming travel foot boat has a hull 72 by 26 feet and
and propulsion. season. weighs over 40 tons, yet draws less than
He discovered that neither conventional They succeeded. The Canyon King was two feet of water, and with proper hand-
propeller-driver boats, nor ultra-modern launched on April 30, 1972, just four ling can cross sandbars still shallower than
jet propulsion were satisfactory on the
Below: A large bulldozer eased the CANYON KING into the river after 800 people on long tow
Colorado. Numerous shallow sandbars lines had moved it to the water's edge. Right: Starting its maiden voyage, a full load, of some 200
made propellers impractical, and the heavy tourists and local citizens crowded aboard for the historic trip. Even fully loaded, the big boat only
silt content of the water rapidly eroded draws two feet of water. Shallow draft is essential to boating on the Colorado River because of
expensive jet pumps. numerous sand bars beneath the surface. Far right: CANYON KING as it tours the Colorado River
gorge. Twice-daily excursions are offered. The daily trips are in the morning and late evening.
Then Tex had another dream. Why not
a big, old-fashioned sternwheel riverboat,
one designed to haul hundreds of people,
to operate in shallow water and to lend
an air of last-century nostalgia, yet built
to modern safety standards and offering
its passengers modern on-board conven-
iencies ?
After a flurry of consultations with
marine architects and an Alaskan who had
built and was operating two such boats
already, Tex decided his dream was feas-
ible. He then began turning it into reality.
By January of 1972, everything was or-
ganized for the complex task, and con-
struction began on Tex's "dream boat,"
28
that. The fireproof, all-steel boat is pow- 150 passengers, but for dockside parties, adds a taste of the romance and drama of
ered by a large marine-diesel engine conventions, weddings, family reunions, yesteryear, as it churns through the water
which is connected by a series of gears, business meetings and other charter uses, with its powerful, bright-orange paddle-
drive belts and sprocket chains to the 14- there is room for 200 people aboard. wheel flashing in the sun, and its tall,
foot, wood-bladed paddlewheel. During the long travel season that black stacks silhouetted against the deep
The boat's lower deck is glass enclosed southeastern Utah enjoys, from May- blue sky. Traditionally, boats are "fe-
and surrounded by a shaded walkway. The through October, the Canyon King plies male," with names to match, but after a
upper deck is open for viewing and photo- the picturesque Colorado River gorge trip aboard this proud craft you cannot
graphing the towering river-canyon walls, downstream from Moab every day, carry- help but agree with Cap'n Tex when he
except for a sunshade and the pilot house. ing passengers through majestic redrock says:
Passengers enjoy the luxury of music, a scenery unmatched anywhere, on waters "As 1 watched this boat grow from a
snackbar and sometimes entertainment that are just not suited to boats of more pile of steel, I just knew it was going to
from an old-fashioned player piano. modern design. be' the best, so it had to be called the
Under way, the Canyon King can carry And to such trips, the big boat itself "Canyon King!"
N THE great and vast deserts of the
I Southwest, there dwells a certain
beady-eyed little character known locally
as the desert shrew, and among biologists
as Nottosorex crawfqrdi (notio-southern,
sorex-shrew, and crawfordi after the fel-
low who collected the first example of
his kind).
Now although Notio measures less than
DESERT
4 inches from nose tip to tail end, and
even with an ample dinner aboard tips
the scales at scarcely more than one stick
of gum, he's an established member of
the desert community, and a first class
puzzle to science, as well.
Clad as he is in ashy grey tones, and
with his good-sized ears, he looks much
like a mouse whose nose has been pulled
out into a long pointed snout, and whose
tail has been shortened. But right there
the resemblance ceases, for inside Notio
is exceedingly un-mouselike. No rodent
he, but a member of the ancient order of The very elusive shrew
insectivores, a fraternity of insect eaters
from our photo files.
going far, far back into time, and whose
Photo by Karl H. Masloivski.
representatives today retain many of the
old primitive ways. In fact, Notio has the
same type of flat cranium as his old low-
brow ancestors, his back-sloping fore-
head being scarcely higher than the bridge
of his nose.
Inside this narrow flat skull is a very
small brain of a style in vogue millions of
years ago, and which is mostly devoted to
smell matters. The two small cerebral
hemispheres supposed to handle more ad-
vanced brain jobs are noteworthy in the
paucity of their convolutions and little
grey matter. Notio, in short, is no genius.
Out of date brainwise, he is likewise
old fashioned when it comes to teeth, for
he's still eating with the same old an-
cestral dentures. The upper molars in this
primitive tooth set up are triangular in
shape with three sharp points connected
by cutting edges. The molars downstairs
also have shearing edges fore and aft, but
the three points of their triangles stand do a complete job on the rest of the ca flats. Nor does he follow the pattern of
in peaks that fit like wedges into gaps be- carcass. Then, nose twitching, whiskers small desert animals whose lives depend
tween the upper teeth. Notio, munching akimbo, he rushes off on the trail of the on a hole into which to escape the heat.
on an insect, cuts up its hard body cover- next one. Notio is no digger, nor is he interested in
ing into small bits with this battery of This insect diet furnishes sufficient a second-hand hole dug by somebody else.
points and blades, and crushes the pieces, moisture which is lucky, for unlike his His abode is topside, a little ball of soft
which is why crusty crickets, grasshop- cousins among other shrews who live in materials tucked under a dead agave plant,
pers and beetles go down his hatch with forests and prairies, Notio is at home only or under litter or amongst the piled-up
such speed and in such numbers. A thor- in places of extreme aridity where free debris of a woodrat's castle, or under a cot-
ough eater, Notio first neatly removes water is seldom available. Favorite spots tonwood log—in fact under whatever is
the legs to immobilize his prey and then are typical desert areas of mesquite and available on the surface that offers pro-
bites their heads, proceeding thereafter to cactus, creosote, salt brush, sagelands, yuc- tection. The team of biologists, Donald
Desert Magazine
30
was only one shrew with a bulging belly.
Notio's particular brand, however, are
surprisingly amiable, and while each adult
SHREW by K. L. Boynton
builds and occupies his own private nest,
they seem to get along together well
enough in the wild. Even in captivity,
as long as food is available in excess, and
they are not confined too closely together,
there is little fighting among these more
COPYRIGHT 1973 even-tempered Notios. Not that they are
placid, for shrewlike, their movements
are erratic and fast, haste being always
the by-word. Five-fingered, five-toed,
they're flat-footed to boot, but still leg
it along a zigzag course at top speed, tail
held up in a stiff curve out of the way.
It must be said in defense of shrews
as a whole that all this rushing about so
characteristic of them, and their notor-
iously short-fused tempers and warlike
ways can be laid in part to the fact that
their body tempo is so astonishingly fast.
Metabolically they are little dynamos,
driven by a body rhythm so rapid that it
burns up reserves quickly, and they must
eat every few hours to keep from starving
to death. In fact, one of the Blarina bunch
can eat its own weight in meat about
every three hours, and consequently must
spend most of its time hunting. A shrew
of this type may pitch into a mouse much
bigger than itself, lay it out with the
poison in its saliva, and be dining with
gusto all within a few moments.
The desert dwelling Notios apparently
do not eat live rodents so relished by
other shrews, captives in labs turning them
down regularly. They also spend far less
time hunting for food, taking time off
during the day to do nothing. They must
•* « m be slower geared, probably a distant adap-
tation to desert environment where sur-
vival at best is chancey and any needless
expenditure of energy can be fatal. Hoff-
meister and Goodpaster found these
shrews at their siesta, curled up or stretch-
ed out on their sides, or sleeping peace-
Hoffmeister and W. Goodpaster, looking his comfort stations several feet away from fully on their backs with all four feet
into the affairs of the desert shrew in his nest, usually on an elevated spot with up in the air.
Arizona, found an especially neat domi- a view. Notios are exceptionally sound sleepers
cile made of cottonwood leaves packed Shrews as a tribe are a peevish lot, be- to boot, and the fact that they rouse so
close together, those on top being laid ing prone to furious fights in which the slowly from sleep intrigued zoologists
like shingles. This seemed an architectural victor promptly dines on the vanquished, H. N. Coulombe and B. H. Banta study-
design excellent for shunting aside the not even saving the end of the victim's ing them in Inyo County, California.
rays of the sun, and rain water runoff. tail for a toothpick. In fact, when biolo- Pondering the matter, they concluded that
When it comes to housing, Notio, whose gst C. H. Merriam confined three of the this apparent deep slumber might, in real-
kind has been around deserts so long, Blarina type together one evening, two ity, be a period of a big metabolic slow-
obviously knows what he is doing. He immediately slew and ate the third. On down during which time these desert
is also neat about his home, establishing hand to greet the scientist the next A. M. dwelling shrews were able to cut their
July, 1973
31
respiratory water loss to a minimum. Cer-
Tag-a-Long Tours
452 NORTH MAIN P.O. BOX 1206B
MOAB, UTAH 84532
Phone 801-259-6690 or 801-259-7218
PROSPECTING]
TREASURE HUNTING
July, I9-/3 33
\
mm H
- i)
m
K
a • i
3. >.
\
Nevada's
Mysterious:
wo MINERS, James Hart and David Epoch, 70,000 years ago, at a time when dated man's discovery and use of the cave
T Pugh, soured on their luck at gold
mining, turned to mining fertilizer from
the melting waters of the Ice Age began to include a period between 2000 and
to form lakes in the lowlands. Along 3000 B.C.. and as recent as 1800.
an old cave they had discovered. During the shoreline of this ancient Lake Lahon- Migratory bands of Indians, that came
their digging operation, they unearthed tan, winds swept the water into waves, roaming aimlessly from the north, were
one of the richest archeological finds in which in turn pounded and eroded a great man's first tenancy. They were in search
North America. The cache had lain buried limestone dome along the shoreline. As of food and shelter, and resources to
under hundreds of tons of bat guano. the water evaporated, it cut away the soil maintain their families. Many different
The artifacts were preserved in near per- beneath the dome, until finally a natural groups occupied the cave, each in his turn
fect condition by the natural combination cave resulted. Climatical changes over smoothing the floor, and covering the dis-
of dry air and protective cover. While the centuries caused Lake Lahontan to cards of his predecessors. In this manner,
the discovery may well prove the key to recede further leaving the cave to dry layer upon layer of camp litter became
the lives of early man on our western out and await occupancy. locked in the earthen floor of the cave.
plains—to the miners it was just bad luck. Bats were the first to discover the As Hart and Pugh dug at their fertilizer
The cave, measuring approximately 160 opening. They held possession long deposit, foreign matter of bone, matting,
feet long and 40 feet wide, is located 22 enough a lay a 20-inch mat of droppings and bits of rope made it necessary for
miles southwest of Lovelock, Nevada. It above the lake sediment. Man followed them to screen the material to produce a
came into existence during the Pleistocene the bats. Recent tests with carbon have top grade product. It soom became un-
Desert Magazine
Left: Lovelock cave mummy—buried in a basket. Above: Duck decoy
illustrating the use of feathers on the highly advanced and very life-like
bird. Right: Sara Winemucca Hopkins—a daughter of Chief Winemucca.
Ker accounts of the giant, red-headed Indians is one theory of the cur-
rent investigation. Photos courtesy of the Nevada Historical Society.
Nomads
profitable, so the men abandoned the pro- one of the undisturbed sections that he
by Helen Walker
from the butt end of the atlatl to give the
ject. News of the artifacts drew curio excavated. It became apparent that the dart greater power and velocity.
seekers, and unfortunately many valuable articles found there could be classified into The more advanced bows and arrows
pieces were indiscriminately lost. three groups—Early, Transitional, and made their appearance in the Transitional
The University of California became Late. The one object that showed advance- group of artifacts. In the Late Period, the
interested in the discovery, and sent L. L. ment of culture most readily was the wea- atlatl vanished, being obsoleted by the
Loud to explore the cave and recover pons the tribesmen had used to hunt their more versatile bow and arrow.
the archeological treasures. Loud, working prey. Fish and game were the primary source
alone through the spring and summer of From the deepest sections of the pit, of food for these primitive people. No
1912, was able to catalog 10,000 artifacts. Harrington was able to piece together evidence of any agriculture or planting
Serious interest was again kindled in 1924 fine examples of the dart thrower or atlatl. was found in the cave. Thus, by necessity,
when the Museum of American Indian This instrument, used to hurl stone-tipped they became craftsmen at their hunting
sent H. R. Harrington, director of research darts, was clever in design. The atlatl devices—nets, weapons and decoys. The
at the Southwest Museum at Los Angeles, was made by using a long thin stick with material used for making their nets in-
along with Loud to again research the cave a handgrip at one end and at the opposite cluded fibers from the tule plant that grew
findings. Their recovery of items read like end an indentation to secure the dart. along the shores of Lake Lahontan, and
a mail order catalog. When the throwing arm extended, the dart flax from the nettle. Contrary to ropes
Harrington made an indepth study of was pushed forward, allowing the pressure and cords made today, these Indians twist-
July, 1973 37
by digging a hole in the cave floor. The
hole was lined with bits of grass, shredded
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES bark, and pieces of worn matting. Into
the cupboard were places baskets of seeds
HUMBOLDT LAKE REGION and nuts, along with the dried meat and
NEVADA fish. In one such cupboard, Harrington
+ Archaeological Sites. ' discovered a cache of food which included
iv Lahontan Gravel Bar. 126 dried fish. One ponders the reason
Shores in Floode^ why such an important lot was left behind.
Years. ) The contents of the baskets revealed
SCALE OP MITELS ' '
one unusual entry into the diet of these
early inhabitants—that of cat-tail rushes.
Their method of preparing this food
staple was simple. Fire was introduced and
carefully controlled to prevent the seeds
from being singed by the flame as they
popped from the pods. When a sizeable
amount of seeds had accumulated, they
were gathered and ground by hand in their
metates. The meal was added to boiling
H._ \ I water, and the result was a nourishing
mush.
Thousands of baskets of nuts were re-
covered at all levels of the excavation.
'ivelock. Cave Since there was no evidence of pottery,
baskets served a family from birth to
death. A new-born infant was cradled in
..'•••- J f> a basket, food was stored and served in
them, and in many cases the body was laid
to rest at death in a ceremonial basket.
Hides of small animals supplied the
nomads with material for winter robes
and moccasins. Fur robes were fashioned
with a belt, undoubtedly used to keep the
cold air out, and the same robe doubled
as a blanket and mattress while sleeping
at night. For gay occasions, robes and
blankets of feathers were made—these
Humboldt Lake region from University of California Publication of American
were found packed among the headdresses
Archeology and Ethnology, Vol. 24- Courtesy of the Nevada Historical Society. and ceremonial attire.
ed their twine for nets and cord in a clock- attract flights of birds into the range of Other miscellaneou > articles included
wise direction. Sizes of nets found in the the hunter's weapons or nets. combs made from split quills tied in a
cave differed for each species of game Hunting and tishing was not a sport bundle, simple musical instruments, chil-
hunted. Snares were made for rabbits and to these early residents of Lahontan basin dren's toys, etc.
land fowl, and larger nets for waterfowl —it was a necessity for survival, and it Who were these ancient nomads? We
and fish. was worked in all seasons. During the sea- can only speculate today about the first
Found stored along with the nets were sons when the water was clear of ice, two lower layers of artifacts that were
two types of bird decoys. One was a they built rafts from bundles of tule, and recovered. Harrington, in his research,
simple painted type, the other, a more ad- on them slipped silently into the waters has matched many of the objects that
vanced model, featured a stuffed head to fish. In the winter they dug holes in he found in the upper layers with those
and body that was overlain with feathers. the ice, and squatted patiently awaiting used by the northern Piute Indian tribes.
The bodies of both types were made by their luck. Fishing was a skill. The men Another theory is told in Sarah Winne-
bending bundles of 20 or 30 reeds into trained themselves to allow ample time mucca Hopkin's book, "Life Among the
the shape desired, then the end of the for the fish to swallow the brittle bone Piutes," published in 1883. She tells of
reeds were trimmed to resemble a duck's hook, then to avoid a struggle which a tribe of barbarians who harassed her
tail. On the advanced decoys, a head had might dislodge the hook. people by kidnapping victims along the
been fashioned, then the entire form The women of the tribe were respon- trails, killing them, and then eating their
was covered with duck feathers. The re- sible for the preserving and storage of flesh. The Piutes referred to these war-
sult was a decoy life-like enough to the food. They first prepared a cupboard like people as the "Redheaded People
38 Desert Magazine
Eaters." She described the intruders as many miles, but the old shore line is still Many of the displayed items may be
very brave, very tall, and very strange in in evidence. One thing we know for sure, seen today, if you visit the Nevada His-
their ways of life. the cave and lake bed have surely provided torical Society Museum at Carson City.
Her people, she relates, finally resorted us with one of the most complete findings However, we thank you, James Hart
to killing the cave dwellers as they left of Indian artifacts ever recovered in one and David Pugh—your bad luck is our
the cave—one by one. This method was
slow, and not to effective. In desperation,
spot in the United States. good fortune! •
they gathered wood and stacked it at
the opening of the cave, sealing off the "Try the United
intruders. The Piutes gathered outside
and offered the trapped Indians their Location:
One mile north of Moab, and Vi
Campgrounds
freedom — asking only that they
live in peace and not eat their people like
mile from Colorado River
Between Arches and Canyonlands
of Moab
animals. When there was no response, National Parks
they set the wood on fire—none of the Near Dead Horse Point State Park
HALLS CROSSING
MARINA
Operated by Lake Powell Ferry Service, Blanding, Utah
From KANAB: via Ferry from Bullfrog
From BLANDING or MEXICAN HAT, UTAH:
via one of Utah's most scenic drives
Write Lake Powell Ferry Service, Inc., Blanding Utah or
Call Moab Mobile Operator, ask for Unit 56
i
and four-day tours to various parts of the lake which
include camping out and sleeping under the stars, A
ferry service for travelers with light vehicles. All types
of pleasure craft for rent from 14-ft. to houseboats. f
Airstrip is 4,000 feet with tiedown facilities available.
July, 1973 39
with us as we take our places in one of
NARROW GAUGE TO YESTERDAY the converted box-cars at Chama. Very
Continued from Page 21 comfortable! Three blasts of the whistle
and we are off to a smooth start, wheels
Who rides "The Track of the Cats?" creek and rumble and we are rolling. We
Well, just about anyone who has a spark are 400 adventurers rolling back into his-
of adventure in their heart and buys a tory 90 years.
ticket at either Chama or Antonito. Come The route of the narrow-gauge is a
tortuous one up and down the steep
grades that long ago were endowed with
TOYOTA colorful names for the tight turns and
seeming drop-offs into nothing, as the
. Sliding Side rails three feet apart are bent into one
Window Kits tight curve after another. We follow
From: $37.95 along the Chama River through a land-
scape brilliant with autumn's lavish paint-
For further information
Write: Tom's Auto Glass Co.
ing. We cross Lobato Trestle 100 feet
1401 25th Street above Wolf Creek, and the little train
Bakersfield, Calif. 93301 begins the puffing climb to Cresco,
(805) 324-3167 Coxco and Cumbres Pass. We make it
easy! The high country is alive with in-
credible beauty as we roll along the sides
Gene and Mary Foushee's of towering mountains and follow the
waterways of Cumbres Creek and Rio
RECAPTURE LODGE § TOURS de los Pinos far below. Our little train
There are still places like this . . . peaceful, quiet, bends its way around "Tanglefoot Curve"
remote. And just a 15 minute stroll, or a five minute
drive, or a stone's throw from Recapture Lodge. Be-
and rumbles across 137-foot-high Cascade
sides scenery and tranquility like this, we have geolo- Trestle. Lunch stop is made at Osier.
gist-guided tours to Monument Valley, Canyonlands, East of Osier we approach the James
Poncho House . . . and lovely spots you've never A. Garfield monument. Square and sturdy
heard of.
it stands on the brink of a canyon which
j Nightly slide shows. Heated Pool. Play-
drops sheer a thousand feet to the Rio
grounds. Automatic laundry. San Juan
River trips. de los Pinos. President Garfield was as-
All Tribes Day 3rd Saturday in June! sassinated September 19, 1881, after
which memorial services were held here
BLUFF, Utah 84512 Phone 8C1-672-2281 on this small ledge among the loveliness
of the Rockies.
Toltec Gorge breaks upon the scene
Foivthe Birds?
with no warning as it suddenly plunges
Hummingbird
• DRIPLESS •
• BEE PROOF
• ANT PROOF
• NOTHING TO RUST
DtHfiL MAGAZINE
Palm Desert, California 92260
California residents a d d 15c tax
Desert Magazine
Left: Engine 484 at Cumbres Pass.
Below: Westbound on a S-curve
descending grade near Chatna.
Hocks
altered more or less in some way. How a
HOLDS 3 LBS. OF GEM MATERIAL fossil is altered is not of any real conse-
FOR ONLY $11.95 quence to the historical geologist, what he
most wants to know is its original form
so that he can determine its relatives, and
GORDON'S ALL-NEW its time of occurence.
1971-72 CATALOG Ordinary sea shells on a beach are not
IS NOW AVAILABLE. OVER 250 PAGES
OF MOUNTINGS, TOOLS AND SUPPLIES. by fossils, but if the same type of shells are
to be found in a dirt bank at the back of
A MUST FOR NEW ROCKHOUNDS Glenn the beach, they ma)' be considered as
$1.00, REFUNDABLE
WITH ANY $7.50 ORDER. and fossils. Going beyond this simple example
of fossilization, we find many types. Near-
FREE! FREE!
For DESERT Magazine Readers
Martha Vargas ly everyone knows of clams or oysters,
GORDON'S GEM SHOPPER filled with sand, and locked in a hard
rock. One many find similar shells that
GORDON'S
1741 CHERRY AVE
FOSSILS:
Geology's
Calendar
have been dissolved away and then re-
placed with a mineral of some type. The
finest example of this is the clams found
LONG BEACH, CALIF. 90804 Stones in Australia, that have been replaced by
P.O. BOX 4073D
OSSILS ARE the tools that geologists precious opal.
F use to arrange the parade of life
through the ages in an orderly manner.
Some fossils have been squeezed or
distorted in some way. At times this may
The knowledge of where in the time span distort or obscure some of their diagnostic
TREASURE of the history of the earth a certain plant
or animal lived, can then help in the
features, but most are still recognizable.
The distortion may be only a slight flatten-
HUNTERS- cataloging of information on other living ing, on down to where only a print re-
PROSPECTORS things found in entirely different forma-
tions. Any species that lived in many parts
mains. Many plants appear as fossils that
are slightly compressed to an oval from
GM.0G!
Metal-Mineral Detectors
species that was more or less local can
thus be cataloged as to the time when it
lived. If this second species appears again
in a different type of rock, then an age for
leaf surfaces may still be intact. Some
fishes are preserved perfectly as prints,
where virtually every bone and scale re-
main visible as an aid, in classification.
Whites—Metrotech—Goldak—
Fisher—Excelsior—Precision that formation can be set. Many fossils have been replaced by
What is a fossil? The word is from the some mineral. In some cases, such as the
DREDGES
DRY WASHERS Latin—dug nut. Simply, a fossil is the opalized dams mentioned earlier, the
MAPS
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Desert Magazine
42
original body has disappeared. Under sometimes why they disappeared, can all
these conditions, the shape and outer tex- be gleaned from fossil-bearing forma-
ture of the original is faithfully retained. tions. If one stops to think about it, the
These are correctly called casts, but they historical geologists have done a remark-
are still of interest to the geologist. able job of reading fossils. "COMPASS" Metal Detectors
Petrified wood falls in this group of In recent years, the geologist has been
fossils. Even though the wood is still given a new tool to work with. It goes
there (see August 1970 column), and by various names, but is best called radio-
completely surrounded by some mineral, active dating. The one measuring the
it is certainly a fossil. Fossilized wood has smaller amount of time, a maximum of
been carefully studied, and that which 30,000 years, is known as radiocarbon
has been infiltered by a mineral such as dating. Briefly, some of the carbon in all
agate is just as easily studied as any other living things is slightly different than
type. most other carbon atoms. These have a
Fossil bone is usually found as a pseu- tendency to radioactively decay after the
domorph, either replaced by or infiltered plant or animal dies. By carefully measur-
with some mineral. The remains of dino- ing the amount of radioactive decay, it is
saurs or other large animals of the past possible to determine with great exactness
arc usually found in this condition. the point in history that the fossil was a 14-Day
Many wood fossils fall into a class living thing. For periods greater than Money-
that is loosely termed as carbonized. In 30,000 years, other radioactive elements ^ Back
this condition, the wood has been acted are used. We shall shortly devote a col- H Gt.itirdntCL
upon by heat and pressure so that it is umn to this very fascinating subject.
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largely or virtually pure carbon. Cellu- The use of fossils to tell us what Prospecting and Hiking Equipment
lose, the major constituent of wood, is animal or plant lived where, and at what Books — Topo Maps
a carbohydrate, a chemical compound of time, has given us some surprises. The JACOBSEN SUPPLIERS
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conditions are correct, the hydrogen and has opened up many discussions. 213 569-8041 90280
oxygen are driven off as water ( H 2 O ) , Recently, a fossil of a lizard-like ani- DEALER INQUIRIES INVITED
leaving the carbon as remains. mal, known as Lystrosaurus, was found
Carbonized wood has been found un- in Antarctica. Fossils of this animal are
der many circumstances, and in a wide known also from Africa and India. This
variety of locations. The most common, new find is now taken as part of the proof
however, is in coal mines. Coal is the that the continents of the world have been DeLuxe
result of the compaction and carbonizing drifting apart over the ages. There is no Gem Tumbler
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cases, the wood structure and surface fea- or vice-versa. The only conclusion left is
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RIVERSIDE COUNTY'S LARGEST
July, 1973
• MAPS
The Trading Post Classified Ads HISTORICAL MAPS! "Pioneer Trails", 1541 to
1867. From Coronado to the Pony-Express,
with trails in red. Most of U.S. and Upper
Mexico. 3 7 " by 4 5 " . Folded, $4.00, Rolled,
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ACUPUNCTURE BOOKS - MAGAZINES Mining-Camps of California". 433 places.
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ACUPUNCTURE HAS HELPED MILLIONS. New DESERT MAGAZINES. Complete Vol. 1, Number 1, Trail". Pictorial. Blue or black. Rolled only,
booklet, Introduction to acupuncture, will ans- through Vol. 35, plus 60 others, all old. Some $1.50. "Land of the Ancient Scrolls and Tab-
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mon Enterprises, Dept. 6 1 , Box 344, Crestline, man W. Broyles, 375 Preciado Ct., Pomona, Rolled only. $4.25. Sales tax 5 % . Varna
Calif. 92325. CA 91768. Enterprises, P.O. Box 2216, Oept. A, Van
FREE 128 page catalog on detectors, books and Nuys, Calif. 91404.
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ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. Bound volumes from 1950-
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400 West Glenwood Avenue, Philadelphia, • OLD COINS, STAMPS
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655 Cliff Dr., Pasadena, Calif. 91107. (213) SILVER DOLLARS, UNCIRCULATED 1880-81 ~S,
796-3037. 1 883-84-85 O Mint $8.00 ea. Catalog 50c.
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Desert Magazine
44
HOW TO PLACE YOUR AD
"^ Mail your copy and first-insertion remit-
tance to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine,
Palm Desert, California 92260. Classified
rates are 25c per word, $5 minimum
per insertion.
DEADLINE FOR CLASSIFIED ADS IS 10TH OF
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wood. Calif. 90714. Arizona side of the Colorado River. Be cer- Northern California on the other. Contains de-
GOLDAK Treasure Locators—Pleasure and profit tain to state which map when ordering. tailed location of place names, many of which
in a hobby you'll enjoy. Find coins, relics, $3.00 Each are not on regular maps. $2.95
gold, silver. Charge on Bankamericard. Gol-
dak, Dept. DM, 1101-A Airway, Glendale, Order maps today from
California 91201.
METAL LOCATORS: White's, Goldak, Detectron,
Metrotech, Precision, Excelsior, Fisher. Free
catalog. Aurora Prospector Supply, 6286
Beach Blvd., Buena Park, Calif. 90620 (714]
Desert Magazine Book Shop
P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260
521-6321.
SHIPPED POSTPAID California residents please add 5 % state sales tax.
WILL YOl7~GAMBLE $4.00 to l a v e $200?" Build
one of several detectors from our 20-page
book "Build Transistor Treasure Detectors."
Easily followed instructions. $4.00. Trionics,
Box 164D, Brewer, Maine 04412.
MISCELLANEOUS
SUN STILL Survival Kit
MURDER OF PRESIDENT LINCOLN, Massacre at NEW PROCESS PRODUCES 1 TO 2
Little Big Horn, Titantic Sinks, Germany Sur- QUARTS OF PURE WATER DAILY
renders—1918, Dillinger Killed, Kennedy As
sassinated. 32 Newspaper headlines of great IN DRIEST DESERT
historical events. Limited supply. Order now.
Send $3.00 to Great Events, Box 6042, San
A Reusable kit for Survival and a
Bernardino, Calif. 92412. Fascinating Experiment for the Young
PORTRAITS BY A PROFESSIONAL. Send me your Scientist. Easy to install and operate.
photograph and I will paint a 14x18 OIL for
only $35.00 plus $2.00 handling. Satisfaction
guaranteed. Hallcraft Co., Dept. 2, 308 Mul- LINER
WATER Complete Kit $2.49
berry, OFallon, Illinois 62269. (POLLUTANTS) nPODQ Send Check or Money Order plus 25c postage to:
PROFESSIONAL ART BY MAIL—The only one of DESERT MAGAZINE
its kind you have been looking for. Courses
Palm Desert, California 92260
approved by California Dept. of Education.
Send for Free Brochure. Roy Keister College of California residents add 12c sales tax
Fine Arts, 19 Washington Street, Santa Clara,
Calif. 95050.
GUMMED NAME AND address labels: 1000
$ 1 , 3000—$2.25. Two-week delivery. C. Fri-
day, 4705 Adam Road, Simi Valley, Calif. July, 1973
93063. S U B S C R I P T I O N F O R M
SELL YOUR~PHOTOS. Report tells how, where. PALM DESERT, CALIFORNIA 92260
Color slide markets only $1.00. House of • ENTER A NEW SUBSCRIPTION G RENEW MY PRESENT SUBSCRIPTION
Mason, Box 532, Wingold Ave., Kenbridge,
Virginia 23944.
VACATION CABIN FOR RENT—Lake Tahoe, Ne- NAME
vada. Completely furnished cabin, Deck Porch,
Private Beach, Family Area, 702-323-8864 ADDRESS ZIP CODE
evenings.
D SEND GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO:
NAME
M O V I N G7
SO YOU WILL NOT MISS AN ISSUE ADDRESS
NOTIFY US AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.
Sign Gift Card: " F r o m _
Be sure to include old address One Year $5.00 Two Years $9.50 Three Years $13.00
as well as the new (Or 2 One Years) (Or Three One Years)
AND BOTH ZIP CODES! • PAYMENT ENCLOSED • BILL ME LATER
• ALSO SEND DESERT'S 12-ISSUE HANDSOME BROWN VINYL BINDER FOR $3.50
July, 1973
;
• ' • •
LOVELOCKS
FRONTIER DAYS
August 3-4-5
MUSIC—Reno Municipal Band Concert in the Park, 11:30 a.m., Saturday, August 4th.
FEATURED ENTERTAINER—HENSON CARTILL, TV-Recording Star Thursday and Friday Nights, August 2nd and 3rd.
RODEO—(Sponsored by Pershing County Horsemen's Association) Friday and Saturday, August 3rd and 4th.
PARADE—10:00 a.m., Saturday, August 4th.
ACTIVITIES IN PARK—Saturday and Sunday, August 4th and 5th.
CHILDREN'S GAMES, CONTESTS, CONCESSIONS, FLEA MARKET,
KANGAROO COURT, HARD-ROCK DRILLING, REFRESHMENTS.
BARBEQUE—Old-Fashioned Barbecued Beef, Beans, etc.
(served in the Courthouse Park, Saturday, August 4th, 5 to 7 p.m.)
PANCAKE BREAKFAST—August 3rd and 4th, 6:30 to 9:30 a.m. Courthouse Park.
PARADE ENTRIES—Should be in by Saturday, July 28th, advise
form your entry will take: Mounted, Walking, Float, or Other.
FLEA MARKET—Everyone is invited to rent space in the Flea Market and display your wares
(for example: handiwork, bottles, rocks, ceramics, jewelry, baked goods, or any other treasures)
for sale or for show.
Please Reply to: FRONTIER DAYS COMMITTEE,
P.O. Box 672, Lovelock, Nevada 89419.
Telephone: 273-2272, 273-2417, 273-2687
YOU ARE
:. -,-TH • 5* i.:K-i
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' • • • • . < # •
•,•4 ; • - V
Register now for 1973 National Rally, Hemet, Calif.. Oct. 7-13. Contact V. L Cooper, rally coordinator, Silver Streak factory.