Audreys10minuteFingerboardworkout

Intro
Warmup(atleast20minuteswithnomore
than30to50%maxeffortexerted):light
cardio,getyourpulseup,andalightworkout
foryourarms.Take5minutesafterthewarm
uptohydrateandrecoverbeforecontinuing.
Beginworkoutandattempttocompleteeach
setwithintheminuteallotment.

1or2daysrestshouldbesufficientdepending
onintensityoftheworkout,age,fitnesslevel,
etc.Itisnotunusualtoneedupto4daysfor
recovery.Thisworkoutcanbedone2timesa
weekwhenclimbingmoderately.Reduce
frequencyasclimbingintensifies.Donot
executemorethan3timesperweek.

Buildingtendonstrengthisnotlikebuilding
musclestrength.Dorest,neverforcethe
exercise.Stopbeforefailure.Tendonsbuildup
slowlyandareeasytoinjure.Hydrate
frequently.Thisworkoutshouldfeel
challengingbutdoable.Yourbodyshouldnot
feeltrashedafter.Ifitdoes,taketheworkout
downanotch.Thisworkoutistargetedat90%
maxeffortexertion.

Somewordsofadvice
Beginner:Trybodyweighttostart.Dropsetall
exercisesuntilyoucanmeettherepetitions
stated.Allholdsshouldstartoutpositiveand
comfortable.Graduallyadjusttousesmaller
holds,moreweight,etc.Ifyouhavenever
donesomethinglikethisbefore,addmorerest
betweeneachset.Dontbeafraidtosplitthe
workoutintomultipledays.Donotexecuteto
failure.

Intermediate:Tryeachsetasspecifiedand
adjustaccordingly.Donotforceaset.
Graduallyworkuptospecifiedworkoutor
adjustareastoincreasedifficulty.Reducethe
restbetweensets.Becarefulnottoexecuteto
failure.

Advanced:Avoidthetendencytodomore
thanisprescribed.Startwiththeoutlineand
adjusttoincreasedifficulty,e.g.aimforlonger
deadhangs(upto20)beforeaddingweight.
Eliminatetherestbetweensets.Starteachset
ontheminute.Becarefulnottoexecuteto
failure.Takeatleastonerestdayfollowing.

10minutefingerboardworkout

Time
1

2
3

4
5

6
7

8
9

Reps
6
6
1

6
6
1

6
6
1

6
6
1

6
6
1

Task
blastpullups
Narrowstancepushups
Pullup,deadhang10,pullup
Rest
Typewriterpullup(altsides)
Pushups
Pullup,deadhang10,pullup
Rest
Negatives,3eacharm
Tricepspushdown/dips
Pullup,deadhang10,pullup
Rest
offsetpulluplockoffs
Pushups,addclap
Pullup,deadhang10,pullup
Rest
PullupswithLseat
WidePushups
Pullup,deadhang10,pullup

Grip
Openhand
Palms
Openhand

Fingertips
Halfcrimp

Fullcrimp

Openhand
Palms
pocket

Openhand
Palms
Openhand

Hold
Jugs

Smalledge

Jugs

Smalledge

Jugs
Chair/bench
Smalledge

Lgedge/Jug

Jug

Sloper

Wgt

10#

10#

5#

10#

10#

10#

10means10seconds
10#means10pounds
Dropsetmeanstodecreasedifficultyeitherpriortothestartofthesetoratanytimeduring
Upsetmeanstoincreasethedifficultysimilartoabove
Exercise
Description
Deadhangs
Donotresetfingersafterinitialpullup

BlastPullup

Usingthebestholdsonthefingerboard,pullupquickly,lowernormal.

Pushups

Palmsmeanspalmsflatontheground
Tipsmeansfingertipsinsteadofpalms
Clap:speedandamplitudearefactorshere.Fireoffthissetquicklyandwithenoughamplitudeto
clapinbetweeneachpushup.
Narrowstance:elbowsinbyside,handscloseinbybody
Widestance:elbowsawayfrombodyabout68

TypewriterPullup

Initiateapullup,butinsteadofpullingupwithweightevenlydistributedbetweenyourhands,shift
weighttoonesideandpulluponthatside.Holdlockoffandshiftweighttootherarm,keepweight
shiftedandcontrolthelower.Repeatonotherside.Useawidegrip.

LseatPullup

Doasetofstandardpullups,butwhenyoureachtheapexofeachpull,liftyourlegsintoanL
position.Thisisacontrolledmaneuver;donotallowthebodytoswing.Pauseatthetopofthe
movementthenlower.Useawidegrip.
Usingoneholdthatiscomfortable/positiveandanotherthatislesscomfortable/positive,doasetof
pullups.Alternatesides.Pauseatthetopandagainat90.Inthisexample,agoodedgeisoffsetwith
apinchgrip.Useanarrowgrip.
Pullup,lockoffandlowerslowlyandcontrolled.

OffsetPullups

Negatives

Dropset
Eliminatepullupstoattaindeadhangtime.
Eliminateweighttoattainset
Dropsettouseabungee,chairoranassist
Toadddifficulty,attemptonsmaller,lesspositiveholds.
Alwaysattemptfromanopenhandposition.
Dropsettokneesiffeetaretoodifficult
Dropsettopalmsiffingersaretoodifficult
Ifyouhavewristproblems,dropsettoknuckles
Clap:dropsettonormalpush,maintainspeedand
amplitude
Dropsettoelevatingoneleg
Ifthesearetooeasy,increasedifficultybyelevatingone
leg,bothlegsoraddingasmallamountofweight
Dropsettotypewriters:pullupwithevenweight
distribution,lockoffatchinandshiftweightfromsideto
side,finishincenterandlower.Repeattoreps.Ifthisistoo
easy,addasmallamountofweight.
Dropsettobentkneesoralternateonelegatatime.
Ifyoucandothesecomfortably,addasmallamountof
weight.
Dropsettomorepositiveholds
Dropsettonolockoff
Foraddeddifficulty,useonepositiveholdandoneless
positiveholduntilyoucandothenegativeonearm.
Dropsettonopullups,establishinlockoffposition