Online Instructor’s Manual to accompany Fashion From Concept To Consumer Ninth Edition ini Stephens Frings are a Upper Sede River Columbus,This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the tse of instructors in teaching their courses and assessing student learning. Dissemination or sale of any part of this work (includ- ing on the World Wide Web) will destroy the integrity of the work and is not permitted. The work and materials from it should never be ‘macle available to students except by instructors using the accom- Panying text in their classes. All recipients of this work are expected to abide by these restrictions and to honor the intended pedagogical pur- poses and the needs of other instructors who rely on these materials. Copyright © 2008 by Pearson Kaation, Inc. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey O74S8. Pearao Prentice Hall All ight reserved, Printed inthe Ute Stats of Americ, This publication spose by Copyright and permission should boa! frm he publisher rior to any prohibited rericton, ore in rereal system, or transmission i any form or by any means, lecwonz, mechanical, photocopying, resring oe Tikewise For infomation egudig permisia(), write Rights and Permissions Deparment Pearson Prentice Hall™ isa acemark of earn Education, Ine Pearson® i revistred tademarh of Pearson pe Prentice Hall i registred trademark of Pearson Edeaton, Is. Instructors of lasses using Frings, Fashion: From Concept to Consumer, may repre materi fom the insructor’s manual or classroom se 1098765432 978-0-13-513981-3 0-13-513981-5,CONTENTS. Page Inwoduetion 2 Course Outlines 6 Chapter 1 16 Chapter 2 20 Chapter B Chapter 4 26 Chapters » Chapter 6 2 Chapter M Chapters ” Chapter 9 40 Chaper 10 8 Chapter 1 46 Chapter 12 9 Chase 13 2 Chapter 4 88 Chapter 15 9 Appendix 8INTRODUCTION FASHION CAREERS Fashion: From Concept io Consumer isa foundation textbook for students planning careers at ‘any level ofthe industry—in textile merchandising or marketing: in garment or accessory design, merchandising, or marketing; or in retail merchandising or marketing. Many students who study fashion are not fully aware of the wide range of career opportunities. Initially, they all want to be “designers” or "buyers" without realizing that there are hundreds of other rewarding careers within the industry besides the many introductory-level jobs that must be experienced before they can reach their career goal ‘This book exposes students tothe many facets ofthe business and makes them aware of the rel world ofthe fashion industry. It is important that design and merchandising students learn what it takes to make their products sel and, conversely, for retail students to learn what goes into making the products they will sel. Goal, Students will develop a tasic knowledge of the fashion industry and skis necessary to utilize this knowledge onthe job THE COURSE This book is ideal for courses covering the following: the fashion industry, the fashion business, fashion merchandising, fashion marketing, fashion design, apparel manufacturing, textile ‘marketing, and accessory marketing. COURSE OBJECTIVES + Students will be able to trace the development of fashion and the fashion industy. + Students will understand the fundamental concepts of consumer demand—fashion ‘marketing, design resources, market research, demographie and psychographic trends, fashion acceptance, and the global, economic and technological influences on the fashion industry —which are necessary to make decisions as professionals. + Students will be able to trace the product development, production, and marketing of textiles and fashion merchandise from concept to consume + Students will be able to explain the interrelationship of all segments of he fashion industry + Students will lear to make informed, creative decisions from a global perspective.METHODOLOGY + Lectures from the text Fashion: From Concept to Consumer + Power-Point Presentation + Demonstrations as suggested inthis guide + Visual aids, guest speakers, and field trips as suggested inthis guide AIDS TO TEACHING ‘This manual is intended to help you, the instructor, implement Fashion: From Concept to Consumer asa text for Your course orto ereate a course around the text. To do this, we have included ‘or the entre book in two semesters or three quarters with corresponding, ignments (which may be photocopied) “or one semester of two quarters for design and merchandising 5 ‘br specific courses in apparel manufacturing, fashion marketing textile ‘marketing, and accessories marketing ‘+ Chapter guides with supplementary teaching and visual-aid suggestions, eld trip and guest speaker suggestins, project assignments and test questions ‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS Lectures should be based on information presented inthe text with visual aids and supplementary information, Current examples from Women's Wear Daily and other newspapers ‘and magazines can be used to supplement lectures, Visual examples help to reinforce learning. Collect visual ads that relate to your lectures. Your collection should inelude: fabric swatches, vintage clothing, and photographs from fashion magazines that illustrate good design, examples of designer and brand-name merchandise, and fashion advertisements. Specific suggestions for these visual aids are included in the appropriate chapters. ‘Check with your sctoo! o local public library for alist of available DVDs on textiles, fashion design and manufacuring, or retailing. Suggest that your school oblain a school-rate subseriplion to WSGN or other on-Hine fashion service. Numerous television fashion shows, such as those on the Style channel, also bring the fashion business to life for students. FIELD TRIPS AND GUEST SPEAKERS Fieldtrips put studeats in contact withthe real working world and bring the fashion industry to life. Field trips are most practical for schools located in apparel centers, but local retailers are a valuable source for eld trips and guest speakers every where.‘As future professionals, students should learn to become analytical shoppers and get into the habit of observing retail ends on a regular basis. In a retail store, the fashion produet may be snalyzed to determine success or failure. Encourage students to evaluate garments and accessories impersonally as produets that should fill consumer needs, PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS ‘Choose projets from this manual to be completed on a weekly basis or choose only one to be developed asa final project. Write the criteria ona handout sheet with specific details about hhow the project isto be resented: method of rendering or presentation, number of examples oF length of report expected, and due date. This wll ensure that you are not disappointed with the extent of student work and the uniform guidelines will make the project easier to evaluate. Ifit is to bea final project, you may wish the students to discuss preliminary ideas, sketches, ot ‘outlines with you on a regular basis throughout the semester or quarter before working up the final presentation. To evaluate major creative projets, you may wish to invite a professional to critique them. This person should be briefed in advance as tothe requirements of the project. Ask your guest act ‘the part of an employer judging the work of an employee, using constructive erticism—a balance of good and weak points. ‘This type of ertique can benefit the students in several ways. ‘They get a variety of opinions oftheir work, get used to working with professionals, and may ‘even find future job contacts ‘TEST QUESTIONS ‘Test questions have been divided into three types: terminology definitions, short answer and ‘essay. The short answer questions are followed by answers. The essay questions are followed with key points that should appear in the answer. A combination of question types: definitions, short answer, and essay would ereate a well-rounded midterm or final exam. You may wish to give a quiz before the midterm exam, so that students get used to your style of questions. GRADING ‘You may want to average project and test grades together according tothe following, percentages: Demonstration of effort, quality, and creativity in project assignments 3. Demonstration of proficieney in eourse content through midterm exam, "- Demonstration of proficiency in course content through final exam >. Demonstration of interest, enthusiasm, and postive earning attude through participation in clas discussions 10% goe>‘To make grades more meaningful, | ask the students fo think of them in terms of employment evaluations. An A means promotion, a B brings a small raise, a C means remaining stagnant, puts you on probation, and an F says, "You'te fired!" ‘COURSE OUTLINE, ‘TWO SEMESTERS Ideally, Fashion: From Concept to Consumer shouldbe the text fora full year of introductory study forthe fashion major. Therefore, the first course outline is planned for two semesters, allowing time for eless practice and important field trips, which give the students exposure to the real working world, FIRST SEMESTER Week Subject Chapter 1 Fashion development I 2 Fashion development 1 3 Consumer demand and consumer groups 2 4 Influences on marketing and the marketing ch 2 5 Fashion charge and consumer acceptance 3 6 Fashion research and resourees 4 7. Field tip: Vist maior stores to do market research or Guest speaker: Retail buyer to discuss consumer demand 8 Mid-semesterexam 9 Textile fibers s 10 Textile fabres s 11 “Textile product development and marketing 6 12 Field tip: Visitextle manufacturer (fiber, fabric, or timmings) or ‘Guest speaker: Textile sles representative 13. Triemings 7 14 Leather and fur industry 1 15 Intemational fashion centers 86 7 International fash on designers, presentation of student reports Final exam ‘SECOND SEMESTER Week Subject Product development Design development Field trp: Visit adesigner or manufacturer ora retail store When a designer is making a personal appearance Apparel production sourcing, pttern-making, and scheduling Appare cutting sssembly, and shipping Accessory design, production, and marketing Fur design, production, and marketing Mid-semester exam Wholesale markes Wholesale sales, marketing, and distribution Reuil stores Retail feshion merchandising Field trip: Meet witha retail store buyer Retail fshion marketing Field trip o critique store visual presentation Discuss realistic career possibilities and eareer paths Appendix Final examIf students have hada textiles course, you may wish to eliminate textile fibers and fabrics and reorganize the outline, However a review of the textile marketing chapter is valuable. COURSE OUTLINE. ‘THREE QUARTERS students have hada course in textiles, you may wish to eliminate textile fibers and fabries and reorganize the outline. However, a review of textile marketing is valuable. FIRST QUARTER Week Subject | Fashion development, 17ch and 18th centuries 1 2 Fashion development, 20th century 1 3 Consumer demand and marketing A 4 Fashion change and consumer acceptance 3 5. Fashion research and resources (and midterm exam) 4 6 Guest speaker: Buyer to discuss consumer demand or Field tip: Market research in major retail stores 7 Textile fibers s 8 Textile fabriss s 9 Textile marketing 6 10 Field trip: Visit textile manufacturer or ‘Guest speaker: Regional textile sales representative 11 Final exam SECOND QUARTER 1 Trimmings, leathers, and furs 7 2 International fashion centers 83 International fashion designers and presentation of reports, 8 4 Product development ° 5 Design development (and midterm exam) ° 6 Field rp: Designer oF manufacturer, ofa retail store when @ designer is making «personal appearance 7 Apparel produetin sourcing pattert-making, and scheduling 10 Apparel cutting assembly, and shipping 0 9 Accessory design, production, and marketing u 10. Furdesign, production, and marketing n 1 Final exam ‘THIRD QUARTER 1 Wholesale markets 2 2 Wholesale marketing and distribution R 3 Field trip or guest speaker: Regional manufacturers sales representative 4 Retail stores 13 5 Retail fashion organization and buying (and midterm exam) 4 6 Receiving, inventory customer service, and selling 4 7 Field trip to meet with a retail store buyer 8 Retail fashion marketing 1s 9 Fieldw ique a store visual presentations 10. Discuss realistic carer possibilities and career paths Appendix 11 Final examCOURSE OUTLINE, ‘TWO QUARTERS FIRST QUARTER Week Subject Fashion development, 17th and 18th centuries 2 Fashion development, 20th century 3 Consumer demand and marketing 4 Fashion charge and consumer acceptance 5 Fashion research and resources (and midterm exam) 6 Textile fibers and fries 7 Textile marketing 8 Trimmings, kather and far 9 Intemational fshion centers 10 Produet development or possible fed trip 11 Final exam SECOND QUARTER 1 Produet and desig development 2 Apparel procuction sourcing, pattern-making, and scheduling 3 Apparel eutng, assembly, and shiping 4 Accessories and furs 5 Wholesale markets and marketing (and midterm exam) 6 Wholesale distribution; possible guest speaker: Sales rep 7 Retail stores Retail fashion merchandisingiz Field trip: Meet with retail store buyer Retail fashion marketing Final exam FASHION MERCHANDISING ‘COURSE OUTLINE ‘ONE SEMESTER Subject Fashion development, 17th and [8th centuries Fashion development, 20h century Consumer demand and marketing Fashion change and consumer acceptance Fashion research and resources Textile marketing International fashion centers Product and design development (midterm exam) Accessory design and marketing Wholesale markes Wholesale markeing and distribution Field trip or gues speaker: Manufacturer sales rep Retail stores Retail fashion merchandising Field trip: Meet with buyer of a local retail store Retail fashion marketing Final examKk FASHION DESIGN SURVEY ‘COURSE OUTLINE, ‘ONE SEMESTER Subject Fashion development, 17h and 18th centuries Fashion development, 20th century ‘Consumer demand and marketing Fashion change and consumer acceptance Fashion research and resources Field trp: Visit major retail stores to do market research ‘exile marketing International fashion centers (and midterm exam) International fashion designer reports Product development Design development, student design projects Apparel costing, pattem-making and scheduling Apparel cutting, contacting, assembly, and shipping Accessory and fur design production and marketing Wholesale markets Wholesale marketing and distribution Final exam endo final project eritqueWeek 1 MANUFACTURING COURSE OUTLINE ONE SEMESTER Subjest Fashion development, emphasis on manufacturing ‘Consumer demand and marketing Fashion change and consumer acceptance Fashion research and resources Teatile marketing “Trimmings Intemational fashion centers Midterm exam Produet development Production sourcing, pattern-making, and scheduling Apparel cutting ssembly, and shipping Field wip: Tour ar apparel fictory Accessory an fut production and marketing ‘Wholesale markers ‘Wholesale marketing and distribution Guest speaker: Manufacturing marketing executive or sales representative Final examFASHION MARKETING ‘COURSE OUTLINE, ‘ONE SEMESTER Week Subject 1 Fashion development, '7dh and 18th centuries 2 Fashion development, 200h century 3 Consumer demand and marketing 4 Fashion change and consumer acceptance 5 Fashion research and resoures 6 Teatile marketing 7 International fashion centers 8 Midterm exam 9 Product development 10 Accessory and fur marketing 11 Wholesale narkets 12 Wholesale marketing and distribution 13 Field trip or guest speaker: Marketing executive or sales representative 14 Retail stores 15 Retail fashion merchandising 16 Retail fashion marketing 17 Final exam Chapter‘TEXTILE MARKETING COURSE OUTLINE, ‘ONE QUARTER Week Subject 1 Fashion developrrent, emphasis on textile development 2 Consumer demand and marketing 3 Fashion change and consumer acceptance 4 Fashion research and resources 5 Textile bets and fries (midterm exam) 6 Textile marketing, global steatexies 7 Textile promotion, distribution, and markets 8 Guest speaker: Textile marketing executive or sles rep 9 Trimmings 10 Intemational fashion centers 11 Final examWeek ACCESSORY DESIGN, PRODUCTION AND MARKETING COURSE OUTLIN ‘ONE QUARTER Subject Fashion development Consumer demand and marketing Fashion change and consumer acceptance Fashion research and resources, emphasis on accessories Textile marketing Trimmings and leather International fashion centers Product and design development Accessory design, production and marketing Field tip or gucst speaker: Accessory designer or manufacturer Final exam andior accessory projectCHAPTER I ‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS ‘The object of this chapter is to give students the reasons for major changes inthe fashion industry lover the last 200 years asa background to understanding today’s industry History of costume books— You should have several history of costume books on hand to show examples. The students wll enjoy browsing through them. My favorite is by Bruhn-Tilke, Arch Cape Press. Costume collection —Start your own costume collection for your school. Canvass your family, friends, and neighbors for donations from attic, flea markets, oF thrift shops. Stage a fund-raising costume show each year with the students as madels. They ean organize the show (see Chapter 15). Use this opporiunity to advertise your need for donations. Seta goal to add a certain number tothe collection each year and ask the students to help collect and care for them. Cottors ean be washed eareilly in Ivory Flakes and cold water (do not rub). ‘They can be hung (wet) in the sun to whiten. Silks, woolens, linen, and synthetics will have to be dry cleaned by a reputable establishment, Label all items carefully as to donot and approximate ‘year the item was manufietured. Students can examine them for construction methods and design ‘etal as well as using them as inspiration for future design projects FIELD TRIP: IONS ‘Museums —The obvious place to find historic costumes is in museums, especially those with ‘costume collections. Make an appointment for a docent tour oF to have the curator talk with the students. If there is no costume collection available, have the students study paintings oF photographs showing vintage fashions. Try to relate the clothing to the lifestyle ofthe people a the ‘time the painting or photo was made, ‘Sewing machines—Visita local sewing-machine dealer, Ask the dealer to trace the technical advances in machines. Ask to see a demonstration of the most advanced machines. Discuss the uses of lock-stitch machines vs. over-lock (chain stitch) machines, PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS Designer reports Have each student trace the fashions of one ofthe designers listed in the chart at the end ofthe chapter (you may wish to assign them so that there are no duplications). Students should read a book or articles written about the designer and write a bref ulline ofthe designer's ‘accomplishments. Then the students can look for photographs and sketches of their designers work through back issues of magazines in the library. With photocopies ofthese designs, students can illysteate their reports and irace the evolution ofeach designer's style. They should discuss the ‘characteristies that made is or her designs unique. How did the designs reflect lifestyles atthetime? If your course schedule allows, it would be interesting to have the students present theie reports tothe class Historic costume inspration—As a creative project, have students find a historic garment they like ian old magazine or book in the library, photocopy it, and use it as inspiration fora contemporary ‘garment design. ‘The new design should be carefully rendered and colored. Both the old and new designs should be mounted for presentation ‘TEXT QUESTIONS Definitions Define the following terms as they relate to the text: 1. France as a fashion center 2. Couture 3. Specialty stores 4. Department stores 5. Unionization 6. The New Look 7, Power suit Select 8 ofthe following designers. Write a sentence about their contributions to fashion: 8. ‘Charles Worth 9. Paul Poiret 10, Coco Chanel 11. Jean Patou 12. Elsa Schiaparelli 13, Mainbocher 14. Clire MeCardle 15. Adrian 16, Christian Dior 17. Mary Quant 18, St Laurent 19. Giorgio Armani 20. Karl Lagerfeld ‘Short Answer Quesions 21. Who were the leaders of fashion before the modern couture developed? 22. Explain the tem “custom made.’ 23. Who is considered to be the "father of the modem couture? 24. What invention made ready-to-wear possible ona large seale? 25. What was the major factor that made New York the center of the garment industry in ‘America? 26. Why did men adopt the business suit? 27. What was the blouse and skirt look ofthe 1890s that helped to make separates fashionable? 28. What type of retail business brought a variety of up-to-date merchandise to rural America in the late 18005? 29, What two fashion magazines began in the 1800s and are still published today? 530. What was the dress look of the "roaring twenties” called? 531, What lifestyle changes resulted inthe ereation of shopping centers? 532. Who was the frst American designer to work in Paris and become an international success? 33, How did World War I and World War I encourage women to wear pants? 534. What social situation gave impetus tothe junior market inthe 1950s and 19608? 35, Name the trend-setting French designer of the 1920s who made a suecessful comeback in the 1950s, 36, What is the term for manufacturing in homes? Essay Questions 37. How did the growth of middle class affect fashion inthe 18th and 19th centuries? 38. How did the American textile industry get its stat? 39. Discuss the change in emphasis over the years from the couture to ready-to-wear. 740, What factors contributed to make Paris the center of world fashion? 41, Discuss retail development in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. 42. Inthe early part of this century, what were the main reasons that working conditions improved for garment workers? 43, Discuss the growth of mass production inthe United States. 444. Discuss three of the most important influences that changed fashion styles for women between 1850 and 1920, 445. Explain the growth of activewear. 446. Discuss the developnent ofthe American textile industry. 447. Review the growth of mail order retailing, 48. Why was Dior's "New Look" such a success in 1947? 49. When and why were American ready-to-wear designers first recognized on an international level? 550. Do you see any parallels in fashion and the fashion industry ofthe early 1900s and today? 51. From your own observations and readings, please list and justify three ways you think fashion forthe fashion industry is changing today ANSWER KI Definitions: 1. Supported financially by royalty, textile center, skilled labor 2. Made-to-measure ‘dressmaker and tailors became independent creative and business forces 3. Handicraft stores developed into stores that specialized 4. General merchandise stores grew to supply a vatiety of merchandise in separate departments 5. Effort to improve working conditions and wages in the ‘garment industry 6. A long overdue drastic change in fashion after the war 7. Formulas touted in ‘the 70s tat stressed the importance of lassi, expensive clthing as aid to success Designers: 8. 1800s, English, father of couture 9, Early 1900s, French, tubular dresses liberated ‘women from corsets 10, Late teens and early 20s, again in 1950s, French, boyish style, frst fashion pants for women II. Late 1920s, French, Flapper look, great pubicist, hired American models. 12, 1930s, born in Italy, worked in Paris, wide shoulders, shocking pink, motifs in sweaters 13. 1940s, first American couturier in Paris, designer for Duchess of Windsor 14, 1940s, American loo sportswear 15. 1930s, ec Hollywood influence on fashion 16, French, New Look, dominate designer of 0s. 17, 1960s, young designer in London, Mod Look 18. 70s, Freneh, interpreted ethnic and steot looks into high fashion, Rive Gauche boutiques 19, 80s, Italian, fashionable career look 20, Major international trend setter today, 5 collections: Chanel, Chioe, Lagerfeld, KL, Fendi furs ‘Short Answers:. 21. aristccracy 22, made-to-measure and made-to-order 23. Charles Worth 24 the sewing machine 25, the inlux of European immigrants 26, men wanted to establish an image of respectability and dependability 27. the Gibson Girl 28. mail order catalog 29. Vogue and Harper's Bazaar 30. Flapper 31. the popularity ofthe automobile and the mass move tothe suburbs 32. Mainbocher 33. women doing work previously done only by men 34. the post-war baby boom 35. Coco Chanel 36. Cotage industryEssay-questions answer key: 37, More income created demand for more clothing 38, Immigrants and. nventors rested industry in the Northeast, cotton grown in the South 39, Rising cost of shor, growth of middle class, changing lifestyles, simpler styling 440. Sponsorship by royalty and government; availabilty of quality raw materials; skilled artisans 41. General stores tecame department stores; handicraft stores became specialty store; growth of towns, growth of middle class, Lord & Taylor, ete; recreational shopping: Marshall Field: "The ceustomer is always right. mail order, J.C. Penney and chain stores; suburban shopping centers, boutiques in the 60s. designer boutiques within larger stores, over expansion inthe 80s, rise of| discounters inthe 90s, cable fashion networks, et. 42. Unionization, svikes, awareness due to Triangle tragedy 43. Invention of suits for sailors, sewing machine, uniforms, cloaks, growing middle class demand, Separates for womer, immigrants to New York, sweatshops, unionization, rising labor costs, style simplification 444. Mass production of separates, leisure at 45. More leisure time brings more activi ies, women going to work Bloomers, tenis, bicycling, horseback riding, swim Suits, pants gave mobility to women, sportswear as a category, jogging, body wear, specific clothing for each activity, ete, 46, Imports, Samuel Slater started mill in the U. S., centered in New England, move to South, imports again prevalent, Quick Response 47, Free rural mail delivery, Montgomery Ward: "Satisfaction or your money back," Sears & Roebuck Wish Book, mail order retailers open stores, mal order grows with women in jobs, Ward and Sears close catalogs. 48, End of wartime fabric restrictions, change from wartime sithouette, return to stereotype feminine roles 49. Global exchange in the 1980s, American designers open shops in Europe and Asia 50. Growth of clothes for leisure activities, corsets then/spandex now, immigrants in the garment industry, recreational retailing, mail order popular, ete. 51. Personal observations, give eredit based on validity of justifications,CHAPTER? FIELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS. ‘The importance of the corsumer—Invite a local bank officer to speak to the class on consumer Spending, income, and purchasing power. PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS. Consumer needs—Ask each student to interview a consumer who has different needs than histher ‘wn (Someone older: a parent ora professional, for example). Each student should write a paragraph description ofthat consumer: his or her age, occupation, place of residence (city, suburb, rural), interests, clothing needs, etc. Students should then describe what kinds of apparel would be appropriate for that consumer's age, job, lifestyle, ete. Reasons for selection should be explained ‘The project may be illustrated with sketches or fashions clipped from magazines. [Imports Students shoulé analyze imported fashion garments and accessories a a local department or specialty stor. Each sudent should study a different department. Students should cheek the country-of-origin labels ofall the merchandise inthe department and make a lst ofthe countries represented and the types of merchandise made in each. Do they find a correlation between certain countries and types of merchandise?” ‘Technological influences on fashion—Ask each student to read three current articles (in Women's Wear Daily, The Daily News Record or the New York Times) on technological changes in the textile and fashion industies. Have them write a paragraph summing up the ideas in each article Internet—Have students check available fashion resources (such as designer information, shopping, ‘or retail information) on te Internet. What resources are most valuable? Why? ‘TEST.QUESTIONS Definitions Define the following tern in relation o the chapter: 1. Consumer demand 2, Market segments 3, Purchasing power 4. Demographics 5. sychographics 6, Dissretionary income 7. Datamining 8. Marketing chain 9. Imports 11 Balance of trade 11. Tariffs 12. Quota elimination 13. WTO 14. NAFTA 15. Sourcing 16, Mapping. 17. MIS. 18, VCI 19. Target marketing 20. E-commerce ‘Shor answer questions 21. What is the most important thing to consider when producing or retailing fashion? 22. What is the ideal way to balance imports? 23. What is the consumer spending orientation today? 24, Name three factors that influence consumer spending, 20Essay questions 25. Discuss at least five ways modem communications are use in fashion marketing. 26. Discuss how computer and production technology are used inthe fashion industry. 27. Discuss at least six major global aspects of marketing, 28. Discuss three major demographic segments and their influence on the fashion industry, What is the best way forte industry to cater to each ofthese market groups? 29, Discuss 5 psychographic trends 30. How do fashion companies try to understand consumer needs? 31. How have imports affected the US. fashion industry? 32. How do merchints use databases? 33. What effect may quota elimination have on smal apparel producing counties? 34. To what demographic group do you belong? How do your personal characteristics fit this zroup? Do you fee that the industry suecessfully caters to your fashion needs? ANSWER KEY efinitions: 1. people who buy merchandise are the primary influence on marketing today 2. ‘consumer groups based on segments ofthe population such as age or lifestyle 3. ability to buy based on income. 4, statistical studies of population characteristics such as birth rate, age distribution, and income 5, segmentation of consumers based on differences in lifestyle 6. available incomeafter necessities are paid 7. categorizing data about consumers, gathered ‘through creditcard purchases and other sources, to market specific merchandise to speci consumers 8. the fw of product development, production, and distribution from concept to 9. goods brought from a foreign country to sell here_ 10. the balance ofa county's exports and imports 11. duties or taxes levied on imported goods in onder to protect domestic goods 12. limits ‘on imports to protect domestic industry. 13. World Trade Organization, located in Geneva 14, North American Free Trade Agreement between Canada, Mexico, and the USA. IS. computer sratexy to try to recuce time in ordering and distribution 16. translating data into geographical maps to help retailers understand who their customers are 17. Merchandise information systems; ‘computer software systems that keep track of and control planning, production, inventory, sales, and distribution 18. Value chain initiative international standards for sharing information among retailers, manufacturers, and suppliers 19. Aiming at a specific consumer group 20. Marketing via the Internet Short answers: 21. consumer wants and needs 22. with high-tech domestic production and exports; also using quotas and tariffs on imports 23. value 24. cost, value, disposable income, discretionary income, inflation, recession, international money market Essay answer key: 25. (5) using laptop computers anywhere inthe world to communicate information via satlite; fax machines ean send sketches; television is used for commercials and home shopping; 80(-numbers facilitate telephone ordering; interactive home shopping via ‘computer, Internet, e-mail 26, merchandise information systems keep track of planning, production, inventory, sales, and distribution; database marketing: access to information via internet; communications such as e-mail; computer shopping; computer sketching and pattern ‘making: computer production such as cuting, sewing, and medular production; EDI partnerships 27. fashion is produced all over the world; Western countries have merchandise produced in ‘countries where labor is cheap; imports affect balance of trade; the U.S. regulates imports with 2«quota allocations and tariffs (or duties); the World Trade Organization is an organization of ‘countries to regulate world trade; the Multi-Fiber Arrangement, a trade restraining agreement, was phased out in 2005; the U.S. encourages exports to balance imports; and NAFTA created a fee market between the U.S.,Canada, and Mexico 28. gray market: fastest growing segment of Population, control most money; most neglected by industry and media; post war baby boomers: ‘group born between 1946.and 1964, largest group, fashion has catered to their needs a they have aged; baby busters: group born between 1965 and 1980, lower birthrat, fashion conscious, influenced by models and rock music tars, fashion designers eater to this group; baby boomlet: children, higher birt rate again, impact into 21st century 29. (5) community interest, family life, work at home, computer use, comfort, cocooning, value oftime, overwhelming choices 30. Market research, demographic and psychographic studies, reading about what is going on in the World, 31, Low labor coss abroad keep costs down but cause loss of jobs and trae deficit 32. Learn about customers, find new customers or markets, establish target markets, create new produets and advertising, and stay focused on target customer. 33. Because there are no quota to spread manufacturing to many countries, small countries may lose business to China 34. To. clude demographic group, personal characteristics, and in-depth examples of how the fashion industry has catered to this specific students fashion needs. 2CHAPTER SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS Clothing coletion Ad to your collection of fashion examples (actual garments or magazine ‘hotographs) as discussed for chapters | and2. As you leture, show examples of classics, fads, and recurring fasheneyels (such s a Chane! suit fom 1959, 1979, and today: or a padded shoulder suit from tie early 1940s and one from the 80s). Use examples of syle ranges, price ranges, and clothing classifications in women's, men's, and childrens wear and comparisons of fit and quality (seeing aetual garments makes a greater impression onthe students and reinforces images and teminoogy). FIELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS Retailing in relationship tothe fashion eyele—Arrange a field trip to local retail store, 1 speak with a buyer. Ask tne buyer to discuss his or her store's relationship to fashion leaders or followers and how the store meets the various demand stages of the fashion cycle, ‘The buyer could illustrate remarks with clothes in the department that are innovative (at the introduction stage), atthe height ‘of popularity (selling well), oF on a decline in popularity (on sale). ‘Taste building—It is important to expose students to quality asa taste builder. Arrange to visita ‘specialty store that erties designer fashions. Ask the buyer or store manager to show the students examples of quality fabries and construction (perhaps at an early hour when the store is closed), ‘The students should lear to evaluate and appreciate quality in clothing ‘Meris wear—Arrange to visit local retail store to meet withthe men’s wear buyer. Ask to discuss styling sizing, and tailoring of men's clothing and furishings, preferably inthe department so that youtean see examples. Children's wear—Arrange to visita chikdren's wear buyer to discuss sizing styling, and quality of| children's wear. sc the students to write profiles of the life-style and clothing needs of children they know. What are the parents’ requirements? PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS Fashion leaders—Ask each student to pick a well-known music or film star or public Figure in the news (male or female) who is considered a fashion leader. Have the students register the name with you in advance to avoid duplications. Ina short report, have the students give their reasons of how this petson influenoes the way others dress. Students should illustrate the report with photocopies cof magazine photos, From current fashion magazines, have students collect five examples ofeach of | the following types of fashions: designer fashion, mass fashion, cassie, and fads. Have them, ‘mount the ilustratcns and write explanatory captions. 23Market research—The goal of the fashion industry is o sell clothing and accessories. Therefore, it is very important for both manufacturers and retailers to constantly survey the market (etal stores) to.ee what is selling and why. Assign a different category (dresses, sportswear, lingerie, suis, tc.) in one style range (missy, junior, men, children, etc.) to each student to research. Have them Visit a local department store and compare two similar garments in the same price range but from different manufacturers. Have them make the following comparisons: price, value, quality of fabric, quality of construction, styling fabric suitability to styling, and fit, Taking all factors into consideration, which garment isa better buy? Their findings should be discussed in written report ‘ith sources, prices, descriptions, and simple sketches of the two garments Department comparison—Have the students compare the junior and missy departments in a local shion store. They should list the major manufacturers in each department and compare prices, styling, and quality ofthe merchandise in general. Male students can compare contemporary and traditional men's departments ‘TEST QUESTIONS, Define the following terms in relation to their use in the chapter: 1. Fashion 2. Style 3. Fashion cycles 4. Classics 5. Fashion followers 6. Fashion from the streets 7. Mass-market dissemination 8, Buyer or consumer motivation 9, Perceived value Questions 10, What are the three components of fashion? 11. Outline atypical fashion acceptance cycle 12, Discuss the characteristics of atypical fashion leader. 15, Name and explain the three fashion adoption theories. 14, How does fashion acceptance affect the timing of design’? 15. What do consumers consider when buying clothes? How do you make buying decisions? 16. How do style, price, and size ranges cater to men’s o women's needs? Give examples. ANSWER KEY Definitions: 1. style popular ata given time 2. a characteristic look 3. eycle of fashion acceptance ‘and rejection 4a style accepted for an extended period of time 5. people who follow the lead of ‘others in accepting a new style or have little interest in fashion 6. designers observe what people fare wearing for innovative ideas 7. fashion available simultaneously at al price ranges 8. the reasons people buy clothes: to be fashionable or attractive, to impress others, to be accepted, oF to fillan emotional need 9. how the consumer determines the value of a product ey‘Question answers: 10. style, acceptance, timeliness. inttoduction ofa style, increase in popularity, peak, decline, obsolescence 12. innovative, daring, confident, unique, does not seek approval, ete. 13. traditional, reverse, mass dissemination 14, designers and merchandisers must study the market and other influences to know when consumers are ready to aecept a fashion, 15. appearance, cole, texture, style, price, fit, comfor, appropriateness, label, fabric performance and cate, quality 16. See pages 66 to 70 for women's fashion and pages 70 to 72 for men's fashion 25CHAPTER 4 ‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS. Enshion periodicals, magazines, and costume books—Collect a wide range of foreign and domestic fashion publications. Foreign magazines may be obtained on a subscription basis but are expensive. AC least ry tc buy one fall and one spring "Collections" issue of several of the best foreign magazines at alozal newsstand. Keep them as they remain current for several seasons. Don't worry about not beng able to read Italian or French; the photographs tell the story. Students ‘can use these magazines to study trends or as inspiration for design projects. The school should ‘order a subscription to Women's Wear Daily ‘You should have several history of costume books on hand! for students to use for design inspiration. There are many interesting books to choose from. Reviewing the designer collections —Video presentations of fashion collections are shown on television and in retail stores. ‘Subscripton-hased fashion serves (some have college ates) ESP Trend Lab, 12 W.37thSt, N'Y C 10018, tel. 212-629-9200, www.ESPUendlab.com Promostyl, 280 W. 39° St, N'¥-C 10018, tl 212-921-7930, www promostyLeom “Tobé Report, S01 Fifth Avenue, N Y C, tel. 212-867-8677, www tobereportcom ‘Worth Global Style Network, worvgsn.com Eashion information Web sites: ‘www fashionelick.com-—trends and international collection _wwwfishionwindows.com—trends, runway shows, and designer biographies _wwwharpersbazaar.com—magazine ‘wwwx modeaparis.com—Fédlération Frangais de la Couture -wwwsnapfashun.com—trend and manufacturing information| ‘won. vogue.com magazine FIELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS Eashion editing—Ask the fashion or life-style editor of your local newspaper to speak tothe class bout what goes into a fashion article: the research, writing and photography. Costume museum—On tis vist, the students ean concentrate on costume as inspira for current fashion, You may wish to assign a design project to coincide withthe visit nal sources ion —Frem your collection, show examples of ethnic costume or clot 305, 40s, 05, 605 oF 70sto Show how ideas are repeated in contemporary fashion. ing from the ‘The Fashion Group International—IFyou are not already a member, you might look into joining ‘your local group. Studer are often invited to meetings at special low student rates. In the fall and ‘Spring they provide regicnal groups with a video showing highlights ofthe collections. 26PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS Forecasting or irene analysis—Trend research of international fashion helps manufacturers understand design direction. Research should be 8 to 12 months ahead of the retail selling-season, Example: in September, students should be researching fashion direction forthe next summer. ‘complete survey should be made of all available sources: color reports from fiber and fabric resources; design reports on collections in Pars, Milan and New York, IVD, European collection tions of magazines or Fashion Group slide presentations. Photocopies, sketches and notes, should be taken from these sources. A designer or merchandiser ean never be too aware or have too much information, Al ofthis information should be organized into three basi trend directions. Each trend must be discussed and documented—sources (designer, country et.) colors, Fabrics, silhouettes, style, line, and market segment. The students should type an analysis oftheir research accompanied by at least 10 sketches or photscopies per trend Fashion magazine evaluation —Have the students examine four diferent fashion magazines and ‘compare their contents. They should write a brief report oftheir comparisons. How many pages are in each magazine? How many pages are devoted to paid advertisements? What percentage is that? How many pages are devoted to editorial fashion coverage? Articles? Subject matter? Which magazine has the most interesting fashion information? Which one seems the most ‘prophetic? The most practical? Film costumes as design sources —Assign the students to see a particular current film (a fun project) which you ‘el has inspirational costuming. Ask them to make sketches of costumes in the film. Have them design a contemporary garment inspired by the film's costuming. The design should be carefully rendered and colored, with notes on fabrication, ‘This assignment could also be done using an old film such as Gone With The Wind as inspiration. ‘Consumer survey—Have the students make up a consumer survey. ‘To make the project more ‘meaningiul, try to range forthe students work with a local retail store and actually have consumers fill out questionnaires and then tabulate the results. Decide what you want to find out and then make up questions such as: Do you prefer to shop at specialty stores, department stores, discount store, or cutlets? Or do you prefer mail order or Internet shopping? Why? Do you think stores are presenting a good selection of merchandise? What provements could be made in the ‘merchandise election in this store or area? A store may wish the students to make the survey more specific; for example, to find the needs of women who wear large sizes or the needs of mothers with small children, The survey can be tailored to meet the needs ofthe store. Ifthe surveys are 004, the students will have good job prospects at that store!‘TEST. QUESTIONS Definitions Define the following terms in relation to their use inthe chapter: 1, Market research 2. Target markets 3. Fashion forecasting 4. Fashion trends 5. Prophetic styles 6. Design services Questions 7. Why is awareness important forthe designer or merchandiser? 8, What are fashion trends? 9. What is involved in forecasting fashion? 10. Explain the difference between trade and consumer fashion publications. 1. Name two important American trade newspapers. 12. Name four important European fashion magazines. 13, Name two fashion services and explain thei function. 114, What role does historic of folk costume play in today's fashion? 15, Give an example of how film costumes have influenced fashion. 16. How is consumer or market research done? 17. What is your personal favorite fashion resource? Describe the information it gives you and why itis helpful to you as a would-be designer or merchandiser. ANSWER KEY Definitions: 1. studying market conditions to understand consumer demand 2. aiming ata particular market segment 3. evaluating designer collections and street fashion, and studying ‘consumer lifestyles, market conditions, and sales statsties to tr to determine what consumers will ‘want in the future 4 styling or fashion direction 5, styles which seem to indicate a trend 6, companies which offer paying clients collection evaluations (reports), forecasts, and design consulting services Question answers: 7.1 absorb ideas fr designs and to understand influences on consumer demand 8, design diretions 9, studying consumer lifestyles, market conditions, and sales statistics and evaluating design collections, and stect fashion_10. one is aimed at professionals inthe industy, the other o general consumers II. Women's Wear Daily and list in Chapter 4 12, See lis in Chaptee4 13. provide colletion and trend reporting and analyses, foreasting, and consulting 14, source of inspiration 15. look for specie examples ineluding name of fim land designs or tends derived from that film, 16. They use surveys, consumer focus groups, informal interviews, sales records, and compare their own performance withthe competition. 17 Students personal favorite resource, look for specific examples of information found and why itis helpful. 28CHAPTERS Pl (TARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS Ebr collection —Check textile fiber associations and chemical companies’ Web sites for material ‘on fiber and filament production, Also collect actual samples of raw cotton, wool, and flax in their ‘natural state to show fo the students, Ask yar spinners for samples of spun yams at their various stages of production. Check with your local library fr films on fiber and yarn processing swatches that are labeled as to fiber content, type of ic. Show these to students as you lecture on the various types oF ‘weaves and knits to reinforce learning. FIELD TRIP AND Gut Visiting producers —Visit a local eraft weaver or fabrie printer fora demonstration. Yarn and Tabrie shop owners should be good sources for names of these small operations that are an interesting way to itroduee students to the roots ofthe fashion industry. Depending on your location, you ean possibly arrange to visit commercial producer, although there are less and less of them in the U.S. Inthe Northeast: weavers, knitter, finishers and printers. In the South: eotton gins, spinners, weavers, knitters, dyers, printers, and finishers. In the Southwest: cotton gins and spinners. In southem California: Knitters and some printers. PROJECT ASSIG . 1—Have the students examine their personal wardrobes for fiber content labels. They should make a list ofall items with notes as to specific fiber contents. Have them total the numberof garments made of natural fibers, man-made, or blends. How do the garments hold up after repeated washings? Which garments do they like the best? Is this due tothe character ‘of the fabric? Why’ ‘TEST QUESTIONS Definitions Define te following terms in relation to theit use in the chapter: 1. Textiles 2. Natural fibers 3. Flax 4. Man-made fibers 5. Cellulosic fibers 6. yocell 7. Spandex 8. Microfibers 9. Filament ‘yarns 10, Yarn texturing 11, Spun yarns 12, Weaving 13. Knitting 14. Gauge 15. Greige goods 16, Vertical mills 17, Converters ‘Short answer questions 18, What i the relationship of textile producers to apparel manufacturer 19, Where is most of the remaining American textile industry located? 20, Name the five major natural fibers. 21, Name the major woo! producing country. »22, Name the major cotton produeing country. 23. What determines the quality of cotton? 24, Which country is the largest producer of silk fiber? 25. What was the first man-made fiber? 26, Give two examples of cellulosic fibers 27. What is man-made filament yarn texturing? 28, What isthe name ofthe loom used to weave fancy woven patterns? 29. What are the two basic methods of knitting fabrics by machine? 30. What continent is taking aver the majority of world fabric production? 31. What isa finished rol (40 to 100 yards) of fabric called? Essay questio 32. Why isa study of textiles important to someone working in apparel manufacturing? 33. Briefly describe how silk flaments are produced, 34. Name the four synthetic fibers most commonly used in apparel 35. Discuss environmental concerns in the textile industry. 136. Give three examples of textile dyeing methods that can be used at different levels of fabric production, 37. Deseribe the two main techniques fr printing fabrics. 38. Name thre types of finishes and explain their effet on fabrics. 439. What is the difference between man-made filament spinning and staple fiber yarn spinning? 40. Give examples of warp and weft knitting. 41, Discuss three new developments in fibers. ANSWER KEY Definitions: 1. Any material that is made into fabric 2. Fibers derived from animals or vegetables (lax, wool, cotton, silk ramie) 3. Fibrous material ftom stem of flax plant used to make linen 4. Files manufactured from carbon atom of oil or coal or from rejuvenated cellulose 5. Manufactured (man-made) fibers made from rejuvenated cellulose (rayon, acetate, lyocell) 6. ‘Generic designation for new type of solvent-spun cellulosic fiber made by @ non-polluting process 7, Man-made stretch fiber comprised of segmented polyurethane (synthetic polymer), Lyera 8, Filers less than one denier thick (tice as fine as silk) 9. Continuous strand of fiber (silk or man= made) 10. Process used on man-made filament to change the shape or characteristies (into crimp, Joop, coil oreurl) 11. Yarns made from natural fiber staple or man-made filaments eut into staple lengths 12. Interlacing warp and filling (weft) yarns at right angles to ereate fabric 13. Fabric formed by rows of loops drawn through other series of loops. 14. Number of needles per inch in knitting machine 15. Un‘inished fabric 16. Textile mills which perform multi-fiber, yarn and fabric producing processes. 17. Companies that buy greige goods from mills and contact dyeing, printing and finishing to made fashionable fabrics Short answers: 18. suppliers 19. the Southeast, especially North and South Carofina 20. cotton, ‘wool, flax, ramie, silk 21. Australia 22. China’ 23. length and fineness, long staple is best quality (Sea Island or pima) 24.China 25. rayon 26. rayon, lyocel, acetate, or triacetate 27. changing the shape or characteristies ofthe yarn 28, Jacquard 29. weft (oF circular) and warp 30, Asia 31 piece 30Essay answer key: 32. to understand the nature of fabrics, their uses, and the marketing process to ‘make informed decisions in buying fabrics and designing apparel 33. protein is secreted by the silkworm fo make is cocoon, the cocoon is unwound onto reels 34. nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex 35. developments in organie farming, new strains of coton, recycled fibers, non-toxic pesticides, produeticn techniques, and finishing treatments 36. producer colored (solution), stock Ayeing (fibers), yarn dyeing, piece dyeing (to dye fabries solid colors), cross dyeing (or fabrics with fibers with diffrent dye affinities) garment dyeing 37. wet printing: engraved roller (separate roller engraving for each color) and flat bed or rotary sereen (dye is worked through porous sereen); dry printing: (dyestus first printed on paper, then paper and fabric put through hot rollers) 38. calendaring, hat setting, napping, shearing, sanding/sueding, shrink control, cau reduction, decatizing, durable press, mercerizing, water repelleney 39. filament can be textured to ‘change characterstes or cut into staple lengths and blended with natural fibers 40. warp: tricot, raschel; weft: jersey and variations including pur, rib, interlock, Jacquard, novelties 41. spider silk, the spider protein gene is introduced into the genetic makeup of goats and is extracted from the goat's milk; casi fiber silklike fiber made of the casein protein found in cow's milk; PLA, a ‘corn-based polymer 3CHAPTER 6 ‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS FIELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS abr lbraries—1f you ae located close to New York or Los Angeles, plan to visita fabri library ‘When you call for an appointment, ask ifsomeone can make a presentation of fashion and color trends to the class. The sudents should look through the fabric boards for new fabrications. Also check with your local branch of the Fashion Group. They often have an annual meeting on color and fabric trends when a fiber company representative is in town. Students can usually attend these ‘meetings at a nominal fee. The visiting company’ representative may also be willing to make & presentation at your college. Sales representatives—Call fabric companies to find out who their regional sales representatives are in your area. Invite asales rep to show a textile fine to te class, as ifthe class members are designers or merchandiser. The students should think what they would order if they were ‘designers. Perhaps this could tie-in with a design projet based on this company's fabric specialties. Also, ask the rep to discuss the general textile market, PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS, Print design —Ask the students to research historic costume, interior design (old wallpapers) or art, books fora print they lke, They should photocopy the design, color it, and deseribe what kind of garment would be suitable for it (be specific: women's, men's, children's, dress, sportswear, et.) Fora design clas, studerts could sketch the garment and apply the fabric design to it in seale by hand or by computer. Fabric comparison—Have each student shop a local department or specialty store to compare aries used in designer, ridge, or contemporary fashions. ‘The students should answer the following questions in a writen report: What fabries look the most innovative? What kinds of fabries are used the most? What are the predominate colors? Are prints fashionable? If'so, what kind? Geometric? Spaced florals? Small? Large? Examine hang tags and labels for fiber content. What kinds of fibers are used most often? Each student should give 20 specifi examples. Define the following terms in relation to their use inthe chapter: 1. Teatile marketing. 2. Product development 3. Garment packages 4. CAD 5. Stike-off 6. Sample cuts 7, Heade's 8, Jobbers 9. Cooperative advertising 2Short answer quest 10. What is the focus of natural fiber association marketing efforts? LI: Where do American textile producers look for new ideas and developments? 12, Name thee international fabric markets, 13, What is the textile industry name fora fabric design painting? 14, What is the major trend in the textile industry? Essay questions 15. Discuss the major change in fiber marketing since the advent of man-made fibers. 16, Why have textile imports taken such a big market share in the United States? 17. How does the L.S. textile industry try to compete in the global marketplace? 18. Outline the timing of product development through the textile and apparel industries. 19. List two names of natural fiber tade associations 20. List and discuss three customer services offered by fiber producers and associations. 21. Discuss fabric cesign considerations. 22. Explain the services ofa fabri library. ANSWER KEY. Definitions: 1. the entire process of planning, promoting, and selling textiles 2. the research, merchandising, and sting involved in creating new products and updating existing products 3. textile companies make garments for manufacturers 4. computet-aided-design 5. a print or color test ona short piece of fabric 6. small orders of fabric sold to manufacturers to make test garments 7. short ends of fabrics that sales reps show to designers &. independent agents who purchase leftover fabries to warehouse and sell when there is demand 9, sharing the cost of advertising with fabric producers, apsarel manufacturers, and retailers Short answers: 10. product or brand recognition (through advertising and customer services) 11 Europe, Japan, and fabric fairs 12. Premier Vision, Ideacomo 13. roquis 14, globalization ‘Essay answer key: 1S. producers try to ereate new variants or find new uses for fibers to il market needs 16, they are les expensive due to cheap labor overseas and have low minimum requitements 17. with innovations such as styling, performance fabrics, niche marketing, garment packages, flexibility, and computer technology to speed textile production and distribution (shortening lead times) and by investing in factories in Asia 18. see table 6-119. The Woolmark ‘Company, Cotton Incorporated (or International Insitute for Cotton, National Cotton Council), Intemational Linen 2romotion, Silk Institute 20. consumer education, technical advice, hang tags, fashion presentation, color forecasts, fabric libraries 21. fashion influences, fabric trends, texture, shapes, color combination, affect of cutting, end use 22. fabric swatches and sources displayed for designers to see 33CHAPTER sul TAI ND VISUAL All |GGESTIONS ‘Trimmings collection—Add trimmings to your collection of fabric swatches to show students as you lecture. Compare coton, silk and different types of polyester thread. Have samples of different types and weigh's of stable, stretch, fusible and non-fusible inerfacings. Include ribbons, braids, and other types of narrow fabrics. Compare samples of hand-made and machine-made laces, Inclide various types of zippers and both sew-through and shank buttons made of natural and man-made materials. Label all samples as to type, size and content, To build your collection, ask for donations from students, other teachers, friends, and members of the community. Write to ‘manufacturers to ask for kftovers and discards. Some trim producers have demonstration material Use your collection to show differences in workmanship and quality between inexpensive machine ‘made trims and hand-mace trims FIELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS. ‘Costume museums —Idealy, your students should see an exhibit of ethnic costumes because they ‘are richly decorated with trimmings. Leather and fur are also prevalent in folk costume. A ‘museum exhibition of folk costume will give the students the opportunity to see hand-made immings at ther finest. Many history museums have small folk costume collections. Make an ‘appointment with the curator for a private showing of costumes in storage. Some private individuals also have costume collections from a particular culture; cheek in your community (ry the Internet or your local library). ‘Tanneries and fur procestors—Write tothe Canadian Fur Council, 1435 rue St. Alexandre, #1270, Montreal, Quebec H3A 2G4, Canada or fax 514-844-8593 for information PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS ‘Trimmings study—Have each student select one category of trimming such as a particular kind of ince, braid, or button to study. Ata fabric store they should compare the quality and workmanship between inexpensive and expensive types. Perhaps this can be done on afield trip. tthe library, trace the origin ofa particular trim. Also research how it was made. Explain the differences between how it was hand-made originally and how itis mass-produced today. ‘Trimmings on gatments—Have the students visit a local department or specialty store to compare iwimmed garments. Have each person find five garments at different price levels that use decorative and functional trimmings. They should sketch and/or deseribe each garment, making alist of every trimming used. Then discuss how the trims affeet the total design ofthe garment. Does the ‘rimming add or detract fom the styling? How do the trims affect the cost of the garment? ‘This assignment can also be done with photographs. Students should collect fashion magazine ‘photos that show examples of the end use of particular kind of trim, 4‘Animal protection —Have the students write toa national animal protection agency such as PETA, ‘or Greenpeace and t publications such as National Geographic magazine to find out what its members or readers are doing to help protect endangered species and to prevent clubbing, trapping ‘and other beutal methods of killing animals EST. QUESTIONS Define te following terms in relation to thei use in the chapter: 1. Trimmings 2, Netions 3. Interfacings 4. Narrow fabries 5. Hook and loop fasteners 6. ‘Tanneries 7. Passementerie Short answer questions 8. Name three types of trimmings that are extensions of the tentile industry. 9. What is elastic? 10. Name four kinds of narrow fabrics. 1. What machine & used to mass-produce embroidery? 12: Give five examples of natural materials used to make buttons, 13, What kind of machine is used to make woven labels? 14, Name the three major groups ofthe fur industry. 15. Name three of te four major fur auction centers. 16, What isthe treatment to clean and preserve furs? Essay questions 17, Discuss two tyres of interfacings and their uses. 18, Describe the four basic kinds of machine lace 19. Name and describe five trim types. 20. Describe the thre basic types of zippers and how they are made. 21. Explain how plastic and metal buttons are made. 22. Discuss briefly the three basic steps in leather processing 23. Discuss how concern for animal rights affects the fur industry 24. Discuss the fou dressing processes forthe treatment of furs, ANSWER KEY Definitions: 1. supplies used to finish and adorn garments and accessories 2. functional trimmings 3. fabries used inside garments to give body or stability 4. trims made on a loom 5.2 touch fastener; Velero 6. companies which process and finish skins and hides to make leather 7. braids and cords ‘Short answers: 8. thread, interfacing, elastics, and narrow fabrics (lace, ribbon, braid) 9. a stretch ‘rim a made from elastimer or spandex 10. lace, ribbons, braids, embroidery 11. SehiMMi_ 12.3 required) wood, metal, porcelain, bone, shell, leather 13. Jacquard loom 14. trappers or farmers, 35fur processors, and garment manufacturers 15. New York City, Frankfurt, St. Petersburg, and Montreal 16, dressing Essay answer key: 17. suitable weights of stable (woven and nonwoven) for tailored clothing, stretch for knits, both ava lable in sew-in or fusible 18. barmen (threads plaited to resemble crochet); leaver (twists threads ito web of bands ),raschel (Knitted chains of yarn; venice (made ‘on embroidery machine) 19. see list p. 144-145 20. metal zippers are made from interlocking ‘metal scoops that are elamped onto tapes: polyester coil zippers ae a continuous filament coil sewn, ‘onto a tape or formed directly into a zipper; or molded zippers with molded plastic teeth on tape. 21. plastic buttons may be cut out of plastic sheets, line cast, or molded; metal buttons are either ‘Stamped or east 22. pretanning: cleaning; tanning: treatment to preserve; finishing: lubricating and enhancing aesthetic appeel and softness 23, makes consumer conscious of killing an animal only for its skin; some designers have given up designing furs; has affected sales to some extent 24. first, cleaning; fleshing: cleaning and stretching; leathering: tanning. to preserve; and finishing: lubricating and condition 36CHAPTERS ‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHIN vi ESTIONS Designes boards—To help students remember designer names and recognize ther styles, prepare designer display bocrds witha photograph of the designer, the designer's name, country, and photographs and sketches of the designer's work in a collage. Or students can make them as an assignment. These boards can be hung in the design lab and changed or updated periodically. An ‘example: a photo 0” Karl Lagerfeld, a German who works in Paris and examples of his work for ‘Chanel couture and Fendi ‘Keeping current—Again, students should be encouraged to constantly read trade and consumer fashion magazines and periodicals in order to keep abreast of new names and developments in the fashion industry. There should be a library, reading room, or design lab where the students can read these between classes, FIELD UG TONS ‘Stockroom visit~Arrange to visita retail designer salon before store hours, Ask ifthe buyer or ‘manager ean show tie clothes tothe students, pointing out important designers, style trends, and construction details, Collection videos—Many designers produce video tapes oftheir collections for good customers and stores. Collections are also shown on the Style Network and on various Intemet sites, This ‘an opportunity for sudents to see work of designers from major fashion capitals. PROJECT ASSIGNMEN Designer style—Mest designers have a look or style of their own that can be seen throughout theit collections. Hand out slips of paper with names of well-known international designers, a different ‘one foreach student. Have each student research the work oftheir designer through five years of {all and spring eolletion issues of fashion magazines, finding at least 20 examples of his oF her work. The students should photocopy these examples to illustrate a written analysis tracing the ‘unique charaeterstes of the designer’ style, Price comparison—To practice making quality comparisons and evaluations, students should shop ata specialty store to ask to look at evening dresses in the $1000* price range. Explaining that they are working ona projet, the students should take nots on styling, fabric, details, and construction, ‘of one dress. Then they should compare the styling, fabric, details and construction ofa similar evening dress inthe $500 to $800 price range in anether department or store. Lastly, they should ‘compare an evening dress in the $100 to $200 price range. Are the differences in quality worth the higher prices? Students should summarize their comparisons along with descriptions and sketches ofthe garments. Male students should compare suis in the same price ranges. 37‘TEST QUESTIONS Define the following tern in relation to their use inthe chapter: 1.Couture 2, Prétacporter 3. Atelier 4. Toile 5. Maison 6, Salon 7, Collection 8. Seventh Avenue Short answer questions 9. What isthe second largest apparel manufacturing center in the U. 8.2 10, What isthe name of the French couture trade association? 1. What is the name ofthe famous French couture house where John Galliano isthe current designer? 12. What is the oldest existing haute couture house in Pats? 13, What cities are eonsicered to be the three major fashion capitals? 11. What four factors work together to create a fashion center? 15. Name the street in London which is famous for its tailoring establishments. 16. Which American designer presents his couture collection in Paris? Essav questions 17. What are some of the advantages that Pars has over other fashion centers? 18, Why does the couture continue to have prestige inthe fashion world even though it suffers losses? 19, What are the requirements fora design house in France to be considered "haute couture"? 20. Name and explain the two clasifications of French atlies. 21, What are the differences between the couture andthe prét-i-porter? 22. Name four ofthe maor prét-i-portr designers in Pari today 23, Discuss Italy's contrioutions to fashion 24. Name five (correct spelling) of the haute couture houses in Pars today. IF the original owner is deceased or retired, also name the current couture designer. 25. List six important Italian designers and/or brands 26. List ten well-known American designers. 27. Discuss the global neture of fashion, 28, What are the major fishion centers of Canada? How does NAFTA affect Canadian fashion? 29. Discuss the growth of regional fashion centers in the United States, ANSWER KEY Definitions: 1. fine custom dress making in Paris 2. ready-to-wear 3. design studio 4. sample garment 5. "house’, Frerch fashion design business 6. elegant French showroom 7, the garments 1 designer shows and sells each season; line 8. the garment district in New York City Short answers: 9. Los Angeles (California) 10, Fédération Frangaise de la Couture 11. Christian Dior 12. Lanvin 13. Pars, New York, Milan 14, resources, supplies, skilled labor, and creative inspiration 15, Savile Rew 16, Ralph Rucci 38Essay answer key: 17. support of the government such as free publicity, a tradition of skilled handicrafts, companies which produce fine aecessories and small runs of elegant fabries 18. acts as design laboratory fer fashion 19. must be a member of the Fédération Frangaise de la Couture requires high standards of excellence, at least one atelier, and a minimum of 20 employees (15 technical staff) 20. flou for dressmaking; tailleur fr tailored garments 21. couture is made-to- ‘order out of very expensive fabres with fine handwork, prt-i-porter is ready-to-weat which is made in standard sizes, can be purchased off the rack, and worn immediately 22. Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Olivier Theyskens, Josephus Thimister, Costume National (Ennio Capasa), Nicolas Ghesgiere, or anyore mentioned in Women's Wear Daily lately! 23. known for luxurious fabrics, men's wear, knitwear, leather goods 24. (5) Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, John Galliano for Dior, Franek Sorbier, Givenchy, Valentino, Armani Privé 25, (6) Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Prada, Dolce and Gabbana, Gianfranco Ferre, Frida Giannini for Gui, Valentin, Anna Molinari for Blumarine, Versace, Max Mara, Fendi, Ferragamo, Krizia, Missoni, ec. 26, (10) Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein, Betsey Johnson, Ralph Rucci, Tommy Hilfiger, Mare Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Badgley Mischka, Michael Kors, Carmen Mare Valvo, Zac Posen, Proenza Schouler, Derek Lam, Peter Som, ete. 27.no longer a clear division by city or country; worldwide exchange of ideas, talent, material, and products 28. Toronto and Montreal ate the major centers; Canadian designers like to use European fabries but cannot due to the NAFTA yam forward clause; Canadian imports, tothe U.S. have doubled 29. Many fashion companies have let New York City in search of cheaper labor and more space; regional designers have opened new businesses in regional market centers 39CHAPTER ‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS: Elements and principles of design —As you lecture, show examples ofthe successful use of specific ‘elements and principles in garment design, Use clippings of fashion from magazines or garments from your own collection, Have the students analyze the suecess of the garment in terms of how the elements and principles are used, Pattern making —Demonstrate the draping method by draping a basic bodice in muslin on a dress orm, This will introduce the students to the method of using two-dimensional fabric to ereate three-dimensional garmerts. Point out draping techniques as you go along. Also, demonstrate dart ‘manipulation by both the draping and flat pattern methods. Compare the different methods and the results achieved with each. ‘Sketching —Compare and contrast a working sketch with a magazine ilustration. Explain that a ‘working sketch must be adiagrammatic rendering ofthe garment so thatthe pattern maker ean interpret it correctly. The designer must think through construction asthe sketch is made and give ‘as many written instructicns to the pattern maker as possible, such as measurements for the length ‘of asleeve or sweep of skirt. Write to designers in New York or Los Angeles and ask for ‘examples of their sketches to show to your students (although they will probably send you copies of presentation sketches rather than working sketches), FIELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS. Groups —Visit a local fashion retail store. Show students (or arrange to have a buyer or department ‘manager show them) groups of dresses and coordinated sportswear as displayed by one ‘manufacturer on rounders or racks, Are the groups balanced? How? Does each group offer a good, selection? Remember thatthe buyers have edited the manufacturers lines. Elements and principles ef design—Visit a local fashion retail store to examine a variety of dresses, Suits, and sportswear and look for elements and principles of design as used in these garments. Do the students think tha the garments are successful? If not, ean they describe the problems in terms ‘of the elements and prine ples of design? Designer visit—If you are near a manufacturing center, arrange to visita designer or invite one to speak to your elass. Ifyou have no designers in your area, check with a local fashion store to see if designer will be visitng the store witha trunk show. Pethaps you ean arrange to see the show ‘with your class and speak with the designer afterwards. Have the students prepare questions beforehand such as: 1. What are the specific responsibilities of the designer? 2. What method does he or she use to formulate ideas? Sketching? Draping? Working with fabries? 3. Ask the designer to describe a typical day of work. 4. What resources influence his or her designs as discussed in Chapter 4? 5. Have the designer comment on curtent fashion and fabric trends in his for her market. 6, How did the designer get started in his or her career? Ifyou are able to visit a design room, also ask assistants and sample makers to explain their jobs. 40PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS Designing a group—Have the students design a sportswear group of 15 1020 pieces. First ofall, ‘they must consider their customer. You might assign customer characteristics for consistency. Have students merchandise the group by deciding on the number of pieces Gackets, skirts, pants, ee.) in or 3 base colors. Have them make a colorfabric board showing base fabrications, shirtings, novelties, et. (you may want to collect fabric swatches for the students to use; write to textile companies or thei local representatives for old color cards and swatches). Set standards For the project such as ze, type of board, ete. ‘The student’ ability to draw in not important; they may trace or photocopy figures, just so the figures and garments are in proportion. However, its important to develop a well-rounded and coordinating group that might be offered by one manufacturer and to present it in a neat and professional mannet Designer report—Ititis impossible for your class to meet witha designer, have your students research their favorite (have the students register the name of their designer with you so that you hhave no duplications). Each student can check the Internet to get the designer's or manufacturer's “address or telephone number and then call to request a press packet. Other information about the ‘designers training, experience, and style can be found in back issues of Women's Wear Daily. Set standards forthe reort such as length, footnotes, ete Elements and princisles of design analysis—Students should find examples often sucessful designs in their own fashion magazines. ‘These photographs should be cut out and mounted as illustrations for their analysis, Students should describe the beauty of each example in terms of line, silhouette, shares and spaces, color, and texture as well as balance. proportion, rhythm, and ‘emphasis. They should explain how the elements and principles work together harmoniously and Point out which elements dominate You may also wish fo have them analyze unsuccessful designs. Examples might be found in mass ‘merchant catalogs. “fyou give this part of the assignment, ask the students to analyze these ‘garments in the same way to discover what element or principle has been ignored, ‘TEST QUESTIONS Define the following terms as they relate tothe text |. Collection 2. Merchandise plan 3. Items 4. Fabrication 5, Performance 6, Sample cuts 7. Proportion 8, Repetition 9, First pattern 10, Style board 11. Duplicates 12. CAD 13. PDM Short answer questions 14. What are the three major divisions of an apparel manufacturing company”? 15, Who makes up the product development team? 16, Name 4 (out of 5) inluences on design development, 17, How does a des gner use a fabric with a large print to is best advantage? 18, Explain how a cesigner uses sample cuts. 19, How does a skerch aid design development? 420, What are the major methods used to make sample patterns? 21, What is the purpose ofthe sample garment? 22. What gives a eroup unity? Essay questions isouss the responsitilties ofa designer. 24. Explain the styling differences between men's suits and sportswear. 25. How is a group of coordinated sportswear merchandised? 26. How does a designer plan a color story? 27. In what ways does a designer or merchanclser research fabrics? 28. How cana designer talance fabric and labor costs? 29. Name and explain the elements of design, 30. Name and explain the principles of design. 31. Briefly explain the development ofa sample garment. a Definitions: 1. groups of garments the manufacturer presents forsale each season; line 2. plan of Tine concepts including projected sales, number of styles, fabrics, and price points 3. garments sold ually 4. selecting the best fabri fora design S. how a fabric holds up in sewing, wearing ‘and laundering 6. small erders of brie to test garments. 7 the interrelationship of the size of all parts of a garment 8. repeating shapes and lines in a garment to create movement, interest and unity 9. the trial pattem 10, record of garments in the collection 11. duplicate sample garments for the showroom or sales reps 12. Computer-aided design 13. product data management systems (0 organize and edit line hort answers: 14. desigr, production, sales 15, product development manager and/or ‘merchandiser, designer, and assistants 16, (name 4) market, trends, coor, fabrics, as well as culture, the ars, economies, technology’ ete, 17. use as few seams as possible 18. to testa design ina sample garment 19.9 formulate ideas and guide the patern maker 20. Draping, flat pattern, ‘and computer 21. to test the design 22. a theme Essav answer key: 23, market, trend, idea, color, and fabric research; in some cases merchandi style and line development; sketching: patter, sample, and fit supervision; solving production problems 24, men's sportswear is merchandised in groups of related separates: suits merchandised 1s individval units 25. designed to mix and match and sold asa package 26. a balanced group of fashion and seasonal colers, neutrals, darks, and lights 27. at fabric fairs and libraries and shopping the international market 28. expensive fabric must be balanced with simple construction 29, color first element to which consumer responds, must be appealing and suitable for fashion, type of ‘garment, season, and climate; fabric: designer’s medium, must be suitable weight, hand, texture, and design to carry out design successfully; line: direction of visual interest shape: outline and shape within must relate pleasingly to each other 30. proportion: the interelationship of the size of all pars ofthe design must be pleasing; balance: visual weight must bein harmony: repetition: lines and shapes must be repeated to carry out an idea and create interest and movement; emphasis there should be one focal point inthe design; a successful design is created with a unified theme 31. sketch; first pattern; cutting; sewing: iting: changes CHAPTER 10‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS Costing a garment—Precise costing ofstudent-designed garments inthe classroom is next to impossible as each company has its own unique costing methods and wholesale prices are not available to students. However, they may practice esleuating rough estimates (pre-costing) To estimate wholesale costs of fabrics and trimmings purchased at retail divide the cost in half. For a ballpark Figure, double final costs to determine an approximate wholesale cost and double that again fora retail price. Compare your final figures with similar garments available in stores or catalogs. Steps in manufacturing —Draw a chart of apparel production stepson the board to reinforee the sequential order of manufscturing. Have the students discuss what problems might disturb the process, FLELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS ‘Manufacturer or cortractorvisit—Plan to visit a manufacture of contractor in your area, Ask to see a demonstration of pattem making, marker making, fabric spreading, cutting, interfacing fusing, bundling, quality contol, packing and shipping and ask for an explanation ofall ofthe machinery involved in garment assembly. Ask the designer, merchandiser or sles manager to show the ine to the students, discussing the company's target customer and pricing. Ask students to outline the seps in production as done at this specie manufacturer. PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS ‘Comparison of domestic and foreign-made goods—Have the students visit a local fashion retail store to compare the quality of imported ready-to-wear with domestically produced garments, Have each student choose two similar garments in a similar price range, one made inthe U.S.A. and one made elsewhere to use for their analysis. The students should sketch andior describe these garments as part of writen report. They should compare styling, fabrication, fit, quality, and Price. In clas, discuss the students findings. What conclusions ean they draw from their research? Manufacturer research—Have each student investigate a major apparel manufacturer by interviewing management, reading the company’s annual report, writing tothe eompany (with «questions) for information, and/or reading trade newspaper articles about the company. Have each student write a profile ofthe company, including ownership and management information, number ‘of divisions, type of garments produced by each division, target customers, type of production, price line, and where products are sold. Have them compile this information into a professional report. 4B‘TEST QUESTIONS Definitions Define the following tems as they relate tothe text: 1, Wholesale pricing 2. Cost merchandising. 3. Lass leader 4. Issue plan 5. Tight marker 6. Piece ‘goods 7. Contractor 8. Global sourcing 9. Offshore assembly. 10. Standard allowed hours 11 Grading 12.CAM_ 13. Piecework 14. CIM. 15. Modular manufacturing 16. Unit production systems 17. Full-fashioned knits 18. Flashers” 19. Floor-ready standards 20. RF tags Short answer questions 21, Explain how most factory workers are paid 22, What are the 3 major methods of overseas production? 23. Name four euting methods. 24. Why do manufactures use overseas production? 25. What are the two basic systems of garment assembly? say questions 26. What must be considered in costing a garment? 21. Discuss the differences between cut-to-order and eut-to-stock. 28. What are some of the things to consider when purchasing piece goods? 29. What is the difference between a fist pattern and a production pattern? 30. How do US, manufacturers use sourcing for their production? 31. Outline environmental concerns in the apparel industry. 532. Explain the differences between a lock-sttch and a chain-stitch machine. 33, How has the construetion of men’s suits changed over the years? 34. Name and explain the two commercial methods of manufacturing knitwear. 35. Why is quality control so important? 36, List the major steps of garment production in sequential order. 37, Explain the role that computers play in garment manufacturing, ‘ANSWER KEY Definitions: 1, manufacturers pricing including materials, labor, freight, overhead, and sales commission 2, costing aecondng toa garments perceived value 3, garment with alow markup to frac buyers 4. production schedule 5. highest uilization of fabric 6, fctory term for fabric 7. independent producer 8, searching the world for low cost production 9. fabric purchased and ct inthe United Siates, garment asembled in Mexico or the Caribbean 10. plant capacity as figured by the time it takes to complete each assembly operation or garment 11. enlarging and reducing the sample size pattern to make afl size ange 12, computer-aided mancfacturing 13. rate of pay for many sewing machine operators 14 computer-integrated manufacturing; integration ofall computer pattern making and production systems inthe fctory 15. production groups in garment assembly 16, computerized conveyors move garments fom one ‘workstation othe next 17, sweater pieces are shaped onthe machine 18. printed eards with product formation stapled to the outside of folded sportswear 19. requirement that manufacturers pre-ticket garments and put them on preserbed hangers before shipping to retailers 20. radio Frequency fags, embedded into garments, containing information about fabrics and production “4Short answers: 21. Individual incentive systems or piecework rate 22. production package: cut, ‘make and trim; and offshore assembly 23. (4) by hand, staight knife, circular knife, computer, laser beam, waterjet, die cutting 24 to find cheaper production 25. progressive bundle system or the whole garment system Essay answer key: 26, costs of materials, trimmings, pattern making, cutting, assembly, finishing, duties on imports, overhead, ete. 27. cutting and production after orders ae received vs. producing, tohave stock on hand 28. cost; location and reputation of mill or converter; lead time; quantity for first production and possible reorders; color matching between orders; environmental impact; fabric performance 29. a first pattem is made forthe trial garment, a production pattern must be absolutely perfect and exactly meet company size specifications 30. to find the best quality production at the best price 31. some manufacturers using organically grovn natura fibers; Iyocell, (encel) non-toxic inks on prints; andor low-impact dyes, safe finishes and enzyme washes on fabrics. 32. thtead goes around bobbin to create lock vs, series of loops pulled through each other (not as secure) 33. automation replacing handwork and more fusing of interfacings 34. eut-and- sew and full-fashioned 35. poorly made garments would be returned or marked down, ruining reputation and futur sales for manufacturer 36. fabric purchasing, pattern making, grading, marker ‘making, cutting, assembly, finishing, pressing, quality contro, shipping. 37. ordering, CAM and, CIM in pattern making, grading, marker making, cutting, assembly systems, EDI to speed distribution, MIS (merchandise information systems) to track sales trends, work-in-progress, and inventory. 45CHAPTER 11 ‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VI Accessory evaluation—As it is very difficult to build a collection of fur coats and expensive ‘accessories to show to your students, have them each bring in their own acessories and explain ‘why they like them and sow what garments they are worn with. Have the students suggest new ‘way’ to wear the accessories o alternative accessories to wear withthe garments. They may even wish to have an accessory swap. All the students should examine and discuss the construction of cach piece. FIELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS Eurs—The Fur Council of Canada has a video on fur production available. Contact them at (514) ‘844-1945 or fax (514) 844-8593, 1435 St. Alexandre Street, Suite 1270, Montreal, QCH3A 2G4, ‘Canada. Accessory manufacturer visit There are small accessory producers scattered around the country. ‘Arrange to have the students visit one in your area. Ask the designer to explain styling ‘considerations as well as steps in production, Accessory buver—Ask a local group accessory buyer or merchandise manager to speak to your ‘lass about accessory resources. The buyer will probably want you to visit the store in order to show the accessories to the students. Accessory buyers can point out differences in styling, ‘materials and craftsmanship, PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS. Millinery and hat comparison—Have the students shop the hat departments of local fashion department and specialty stores, Ask students to describe andor sketch four hats and discuss styling, fabrication, fit, ard how the look ties in with apparel trends. The students should compare the differences between the less expensive hats and fine millinery. Would the students enjoy ‘wearing hats more often? 46‘Shoe trend study — Students should look for shoe advertisements or editorial photographs of shoes in fashion magazines. They should collect pictures of fifteen dressy styles or fifteen casual styles. From these photos, are the students able to diseover any noticeable trends? What materials. predominate? How has function affected styling? The students should include the photos (or Photocopies) ‘report ‘TEST QUESTIONS Definitions Define the following terms in relation to their use inthe text [Last 2. Line builder 3. Modelista 4. MICAM 5. Hermés 6. Millinery 7. Bridge jewelry 8. Swatch 9, Gemstones 10. Cabochon stones 11. Lapidary 12. Vermeil 13. Casting 14. Electro‘orm 15, Leting-out method Short answer questions 16. Name four variables that affect the demand for furs. 17, What material is used to make the finest scarves? 18. Which country has been the center of shoe design fortwo thousand years? 19. In which accessory areas do large companies predominate? 20. On what kind o° machines are pantyhose made? 21. The weight of gemstones is measured in what unit? 22. AA piece of jewelry that is 14 karat gold isnot pure gold. What percentage is actually gold? 23. The cost of gemstones depends on four things. What are they? 24. What isthe strongest natural element known? 25. How much of a transparent gemstone is wasted in cutting? 26. Name three cities which are major gemstone cutting centers. 27. Give three examples of base metals used to make traditional costume jewelry, 28. Name four mettods of jewelry production, 29. What materials ae used to make fine jewelry? Essay questions 30. Discuss the differences between the two main fur manufacturing methods, 31. What are the differences between millinery and hat production? 32, Deseribe seven af the ten step in traditional shoe production in sequential order. 33. Why does fashion have a different impact on costume jewelry than on fine jewelry? 34. Discuss three factors that intluence accessory design in general 35. How do import affect accessory manufacturing? 36, Bry describe handbag produto. uss two of he biggest problems facing U.S. aceessory manufactures. aANSWER KEY Definitions: 1. foot-shaped form on which shoes are made 2. product manager/merchandiser fora ‘shoe company 3. shoe model-maker 4. Italian shoe fir/market S.luxury French accessory ‘manufacturer 6, hand-blocked hats made of the finest materials 7. jewelry category between fine and costume made of vermeil, sterling silver, and semi-precious stones 8. Swiss fashion watches 9. precious hard natural sones such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, etc. 10. unclear stones usually domed, carved, or left in their natural state II. gemstone cutter 12. electroplating gold oversilver 13. using wax, rubber, and plaster molds to make metal shapes for jewelry 14. applying gold electrostatially around a base metalcore 15. fur skins cut and resewn to form long, narrow pieces Short answers: 16, (4) climate, world supply, economic conditions, sympathies with animal rights, ron-exclusivity due to cheaper coats 17. silk 18. Italy 19. shoes and hosiery 20. eieulae knitting ‘machines 21. carats 22. 58.3% (58%) 23. clarity, color, rarity, and size 24. diamonds 25. at least ‘50% 26. (3 required) An-werp, Tel Aviv, London, New York, idar-Oberstein 27.3 required) brass, aluminum, copper, tn, ead, chromium 28. (4) casting, electroform, stamping, carving, arinding, drilling filing, happering, welding, cutting wire ete, 29. gemstones and precious metals such as gold and platinum with alloys and sterling silver Essav answer key: 30, skinson-skin: one skin sewn next tothe other, less expensive; etting-out: skin cut in diagonal strips and resewn to make along, narrow piece to run the full length ofthe coat, very expensive 31 nillinery:hand-blocked, finest materials, expensive; has: machine-blacked, les expensive materials. 32. (7 required) making last pattern making, cutting, stitching, lasting, stock fitting, bottoming, heling, finishing, treeing. 33. flat shapes stamped out of metal sheets; casting to produce 3-dimensional shapes; wire to make chains 34. fashion trends, eycles, and other fashion Influences so that accesseries complement apparel; function; elements and principles of design especially shape and fabrication 35. due to resources for tanned leather, cheap, skilled labor abroad, and lack of quotas, most shoes, handbags, and gloves are imported; American ‘manufacturers can have their designs produced overseas or importers and retailers may import ‘merchandise directly; lay important for high end, China and Korea for mass production; jewelry ‘business remains international; most hats and hosiery made domestically 36. fabric or leather cut bby hand, dies, or water jt sewn by hand or machine; stays, felt, foam and fabric intrlinings and Tinings added: oramersand closures added: higher priced fabries and leathers and quality hhandwork for more expeasive handbags, 37. Competition from Asian imports and counterfeit ‘merchandise 48(CHAPTER 12 SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHD vis SUGGESTIONS ‘Press coverage of collection openings—Save articles from newspapers covering recent collection ‘openings in Paris, Vilan, and New York. Share them with your class as you lecture on this chapter. Promotional visuals—Ask local retailers if they have promotional visual aids (such as videos or image books) that they are no longer using. Ask if they could lend or give them to you to share with the class, FIELD TRIP OR GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS ‘Market week—Arrange to visit a local fashion market ata market center or hotel. Organizers ean usually suggest a friendly sales representative who would be willing to host the students in his or her showroom. Askthe rep to define the company’s image and target customer and to show the line as ifthe students were buyers. Ask which garments are the bestsellers and wy. If the above i not practical, ask a local store buyer if your clas can be in altendance when a traveling sales rep shows ale atthe store. Ask the buyer to evaluate the merchandise in terms of the store's needs. PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS Marketing —Have the students “sll” line they designed tothe class, explaining its concepts and features. ‘TEST QUESTIONS Definitions Define the following terms in relation to their use in the chapter |. Markets 2. Line release 3. Prét-a-Porter Paris 4. 7th on Sixth 5. WWD-MAGIC 6, Marts 7. 530 and 550 Seventh Avenue 8. MIS 9. Licensing 10. Factory outlets 11, Jobbers 12. Markdown allowance 13. Off price oF promotional goods 14. Cooperative advertising. 15. Image advertising 16, Brand integrity 17. In-store clinics 18. Merchandise representatives 19. Designer trunk shows sion 20. What city is the fashion market capital of the United States? 21. Name four majo regional market centers. 22. Popular and budget line manufacturers sell to what types of stores? 23. What isthe ultimate goal of brand name advertising? 24. Where do manufacturers advertise to reach thee retail customers? 25. On what are co-op advertising allowances based? 4926, How do manufactures act as retailers? 27. What are two regulatons regarding couture showings? 28, 29, Give ten examples ard city locations of important international fashion fies or market weeks. 30. Discuss how to builda brand. 31. Discuss the services offered by regional fashion market centers. 32. Why did regional fashion markets develop? 33. Discuss the difference between corporate selling and sales representative selling. 34. How does a manufacturer plan for proper distribution? 13S. Explain how computers aid in the sales and distribution of fashion merchandise 136. Describe five promotional aids to retailers. 137, How does fashion presentation differ from runway to showroom? 38. Discuss the development of celebrity brands ANSWER KEY. Definition answer key: 1. atime when sellers and buyers meet atthe beginning of each selling season in designated buildings in market centers around the world 2. when a designer or ‘manufacturer presents groups of new designs forsale; collection opening 3, Parisian women's ready-to-wear market 4. "Seventh Avenue” (fashion distrit) collections, initially held in tens at the New York City Library on Sixth Avenue 5. Men's Apparel Guild in California; world’ largest ‘men's wear market 6, regional market centers which house showrooms 7. buildings that house designer showrooms in New York's garment center 8. merchandise information services that keep track of production, stack, and sales records 9. a designer or brand gives the right to use their name in exchange fora royalty payment 10. factory owned stores originally selling seconds and overruns 1 a trader who buys leRover goods and resells them 12. eredit on goods that had to be marked down 13. special buys atlow prices 14. textile producers and manufacturers offer money to retailers to help pay advertising costs 15. captures sprit ofthe product and builds brand identity by making consumer aware ofthe name ‘or brand 16. quality contol to support the image ofa brand 17. in-store training by manufacturers representative 18, consultants who represent manufacturer in the stores 19 designer travels from stores with their entire collection, customers may order in theit size ‘Short answers: 20, New York 21. (4) Los Angeles, Dallas, Chicago, Atlanta, Miami, etc, 22. Mail order retailers, discount sores, low-priced specialty stores, budget areas of department sores. 23. So the consumer will prefer their produet over al others 24, Trade publications 25. Percent of net sales to retailers 26, Sell their merchandise in their own stores 27. Show a minimum of 50 pieces per collection; show or snd videotapes ofthe collection to clients. Essay answer key: 28. potential demand for a product; the place, area, or time at which buyers and sellers meet to transact business 29. sce Table 12.130, Manufacturers build their bands by adding new product lines such as bridge, men’s or women's, dresses or sportswear, petites or large sizes, and/or accessories and through licensing and joint ventures 31. market weeks, fashion shows, educational seminars, et. 32. forthe convenience of area buyers/stores 33. selling management to management; sales representatives show the line to buyers 30\ithin their territory 34. so that proper stores buy merchandise; merchandise is represented in desired geographical areas, one store does not create unfair competition for another, estimated business volume is obtained; open distribution policy or selected distribution policy. 35. in production, to track production, inventory, sales and customer service, to speed up process of ‘ordering and shipping, to analyze sales figures 36. (5 required) co-operative advertising in-store clinics, merchandise representatives, fashion shows, videos, image books, display fixtures, TV- ‘commercials, photos, statement enclosures hang tags, ete. 37. Designer often show flamboyant creations on the runsay but provide alternatives and basics in the showroom. 38, Discussion of brands such as L.A.MB., JLo, Sean John, or Beyoncé, ec, 31CHAPTER 13 ‘SUPPLEMENTARY TEACHING AND VISUAL AID SUGGESTIONS. ‘Types of retailers Collec catalogs and advertisements feom every type of store and retailing firm. ‘Separate these into eategeries (specialty, department, private label, discount, outlet, mail-order, cte.). This will help students visually identify with each type of store (especially stores not in your area). You can point out te retailers that have multiple venues (such as stores and mail-order oF Internet shopping). FIELD TRIP AND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS, ‘Mall visit—Visit your local mall wit the class. This time, the students must look at it with a critical eye, What kind of a mall is it? Do the students feel it has a good mix of stores? Do the sores successfully cater tothe people (of all ages) in your area? What kinds of stores should be added tothe mall to serve the community better? :—Arrange to visit the owner/manager of a small specialty store where you wll beable to get a felirg for the total aspects of store management ona smal cle, Ask the ‘owner to explain how ane why the store was stared, what research was done to determine the target customer, ideal location, and store image. The owner ean also explain how the sore ‘operations are organized, how buying is done, and how many functions the owner performs, Ask the owner to compare his or her store to other stores inthe area PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS Retail store esearch—Heve students research the history and growth of @ store in your area, They ‘can contact the store's publicity department for information and research back issues of local ‘newspapers for articles. Students should try to obtain an interview withthe store manager. With {questions prepared beforchand, they should inquire about tore organization (how responsibilities are divided, ete). (Or you may wish to have them research major stores across the country. You eould assign stores to prevent duplications. In his case they can write for information tothe store's publicity department. Creating a new store—Students should imagine they are opening a store. They should decide on their target customers and write a customer profile. What kind of store would best serve that ‘customer? ‘TEST QUESTIONS finitions Define the following terms in relation to their use inthe chapter: 1 Retailing 2. Fifth Avenue 3, Department stores 4, Specialty stores 325. Deep niche retail ng 6. Mass merchants 7. Mail-order retailing 8, Target customers 9. E-tailing 10, Pivate label retailers 11. Brick and Click retailing 12, Flagship stores Short answer questions 13, How does globalization affect retailing today? 14, Name five lead ng specialty stores 15. Name two European department stores. 16, Name four out of five factors that go into making a successful etal store. 17. What is the major feature ofa promotional or discount store? 18. Name two (of three) types of multi-unit stores. Essay questions 19. Name and discuss four current retail strategies. Which do you think are the most effective and why? 20. Deseribe four types of shopping malls. 21. What are the four basic kinds of retail businesses? 22. What is your own favorite retail store or shopping website and why’? 23. Name five of the six major areas of responsibility in retailing. 24, How does a department store differ from a specialty store? 25. Explain the difference in organization of a small store and a large store, How can a small store ‘compete with large one? 26, How does the sore define ils image? Why is it important? 27, How do stores cater to target customers? ANSWER KEY, Definitions answer kev: 1 the link between the manufacturer and the consumer; bringing merchandise from worldwide sources to a convenient location 2. the famous retail street in Manhattan, New York City 3. store that sells many categories of merchandise, each in a separate department 4, stores that cary a somewhat narrow focus of unique merchandise for specie tastes 5. stores that carry in-depth stock of avery narrow assortment of merchandise to cater toa very specific customer 6 stores that sell primarily commodity merchandise at budget to moderate prices, including discounters, off-price stores, retail outlets, and warehouse clubs 7. shopping by catalog 8. group of consumers a store wishes to attract 9. retailing via computer 10. a store that has exclusive merchandise produced under its own label 11. retailers that have both stores and Internet shopping. 12. the founding store or main store ofa chain or group Short answers: 13. in oder to maintain a strong position, there isa trend for stores o expand Worldwide 14, seep. 305 15. (wo) Harrods, Selfridges, Liberty, Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marché, Printemps, Rinaseente, Bijenkorf, KaDeWe, Karstadt, Kaufhof 16. good management, ‘convenient location. pleasant atmosphere, exciting and appropriate stock, customer service, value 17. price 18. (bwo) chains, department store groups, franchises Essay answer key: 19.(4) value: proper price/value and assortment relationship, keep margins and Prices low, consistent pricing policy; service: exceed customer's needs so that they enjoy shopping; inedepth stock; fash on/uniqueness: provide fashion leadership or uniqueness: non-store retailing: ‘offer consumers cor venience of shopping from home; retailing as entertainment; globalization = 3students own reasons for effectiveness 20, (4) regional centers, fashion specialty centers, power or value centers, outlet centers, recreational or theme centers, town centers, vertical malls 21 specialty stores, department stores, mass merchants, non-store 22, students own reasons for Tavorite store 23, merchandising (buying line) operations, marketing/sales promotion, finance, personne! 24. a specialty store has a narrow focus of merchandise while a department store offer a wide variety of merchandise 25. small store owner often assumes diversified responsibilities; in large store, executives are in charge of each area of responsibility; a small tore can eater to a particular clientele with merchandise from small manufacturers 26. retailers must decide on their role in fasion leadership and strive for an atmosphere tha is eomplementary background for ‘merchandise; their merchandise and atmosphere must be inviting to their target customer 27. By providing convenient store location, renovations, fashion leadership, image, and appropriate stock s4CHAPTER 14 VISUAL AID |ESTIONS Retailing forms—Ask a buyer ata local department or specialty store ifyou could obtain copies of forms that the store uses to plan, record, and evaluate merchandise such as buying plans, purchase orders, and inventory records. Ask if they could also give you old ones that have been completed to use inthe classroom as examples. Most stores are very secretive about this so you may have to ask several stores. Buying office bulletins —Look forthe names and addresses of buying offices in the Retail Buying Office Guide at your library. Write to ask them for capes of thei bulletins for classroom use, Students willbe able to see the kinds of information they offer their subseribers or members. FLELD TRIP OR GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS [he buyers job—Atrange to meet with a fashion buyer in his or her department, Ask the buyer to explain various aspects of buying, planning, and market procedures. Ask the buyer to explain what is considered in mershandising the department. Perhaps the buyer eould show garments from several resources to discuss vendor performance. Don't forget to inquire into the background and experience ofthe buyer PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS ‘Creating a new stone—Students should imagine they are opening a store. They should decide on their target customers and write @ customer profile. Using that information, they should find a location in your ares that would be the best to reach that customer. They should deseribe how the store should look and how they plan to creat the store's image. They should name the store. ‘Then students should look through fashion magazines for atleast 25 examples of the type of| ‘merchandise they would want to cary to please their customers. These examples should be arranged on a display board (pasting the pictures in relevant color or style groups on illustration board) to show how they would be visually merchandised. Department critique—Have each student visita retail store designer sportswear department. Is the merchandise organized by vendor? Who are the major vendors inthe department? Which ‘manufacturers (designers) have the most innovative looks? Within the vendor assortments, are zarments presented by color or how? How are coordinates presented? What are the pice ranges for jackets, sweaters, skies, pants, and shirts? Students should ask ales associates which groups ae selling best and why. Does the department have a good selection of sizes, colors, and styles? Students should write a critique ofthe department 5sDepartment comparison—Students should shop a lange department store to compare thre different ways to merchandise the suit look: The missy coat and suit department where the suit is priced asa single unit ‘© The sportswear deparment where components are priced separately and ‘©The dress department where an ensemble is priced as a unit, usually a one pieee blouse/skirt look with a jacket ‘Compare the selection, price ranges, quality, fabrications, and fit between departments. Which department has the best value and selection? Each student should put his or her findings in a written report. ‘TEST QUESTIONS Definitions Define the following tems in relation to their use inthe chapter: |. Fashion merchandising 2. Merchandise plan 3. Merchandise assortment 4. Stock turn S. Buying plan 6, Open-to->uy 7. Vendor 8. Private label 9. Sell-through 10. Matrix system 11 Purchase orders 12. Marcup 13. Unit control 14. Merchandise information systems 15, ‘Automatic replenishment 16, Personal selling. 17. Average gross sales 18. Sales per square foot 19, Buyer/planner system. hort answer questions 20. How is success in the fashion business finally measured? 21. How does a buyer act as an editor? three types of buying offices. 23, What must be included in the retail price ofa garment? three ways sales raining is handled ina large store. 25. Why is record keeping important? 26. What is the result ofa lower physical inventory than computerized (book) inventory control? 27. How are average grass sales determined? 28. How do retailers keep records of merchandise purchased, in stock, or sold? estions 29. Give eight examples of typical retail store customer services. 30. What area buyer's responsibilities? 31. Deseribe the buying-selling cycle. 32, Name tree services that buying offices perform for retailers. 3. Deseribe the similarities and differences between broad assortment and short eyele buying. 34. Compare line buying to trend buying. 135. Explain the responsiilites of the store line (operations) and the management chain that is involved, 36. Explain the responsibilities ofthe buying line(merchandising) and the management chain tht is involved, 37. Explain how buyers evaluate their merchandising efforts. 5638. Deseribe inventory control systems. 39. Explain the difirence between promotions and markdowns. 40. List at least 6 components of a merchandise plan. 41. What must be considered when planning sales goals? 42. Explain the difirence between micro and macto-merchandisin. 443, Discuss the pros and eons of national brands vs. private label 44, How do some retailers function as manufacturers? ANSWER KEY. Definition answer key: 1 the planning and activites necessary to supply the fashion wants and needs of retail customers 2. financial plan allocating specific amounts of money to each department for the purchase ofan appropriate assortment of fashion merchandise to meet consumer demand 3. collecon of various styles, quantities, and prices of related merchandise, usually srouped under one classification ina department 4, the number of times stock is sold out and replaced ina given period 5. description of the types, quantities, prices, and sizes of merchandise that a buyer expects to purchase within a specific period 6, the value of planned purchases: the difference between actual stock and planned stock 7. the term retailers use to refer to their suppliers (manufacturers) 8, merchandise carrying the store's label in an effort to provide ‘exclusivity and reduce margins 9. selling at regular price 10. strict centralized buying limited t0 3 Iist of core vendors I1-a contract between retailer and manufacturer to buy merchandise 12. the difference between the wholesale cost and the retail price which must cover operating expenses and profit 13.a system for recording the number of units of merchandise bought, sold, in stock, or on ‘order 14 individualized computer systems that make use of inventory data to make merchandising, ‘evaluations. 15. cominuous open-to-buy; leting suppliers restock without buyer approval 16 selling method invo ving the most sales associatecustomer contact. 17. a sales evaluation ratio indicating dolla Volume per transaction 18. sales of a given period divided by the number of| squate feet of selling space: indicator of productivity 19, buyers focus on shopping market and merchandise selection; planners on sales goals, store needs, and allocation. ‘Short answers: 20. sales 21, selection narrows choice for the consumer 22. (three) independent resident buying offices, store-ovwned buying offices (associated or corporate), international buying offices 23. cost of merchandise, operating expenses, and profit 24 (three) training classes, sales Icetings, in-store einies, videotapes, brochures 25. in order to evaluate sales in preparation for future buying decisions 26, stock shortages 27. total dollar sales fora given period of time are divided by the numberof transactions in the same period 28, unit contol systems, inventory ‘management systems (dollar value control), and physical inventory Essay answer key: 29. (cight) greeters, special programs, videos, alterations, free use of ax ‘machines and telephones, personal shopping, newsletters or look books, no-questions returns, credit ‘ard acceptance, 800 telephone numbers, exiended store hours, gift wrapping, convenient restrooms, places tosit, snack kiosks, free local delivery, parking, being in-stock. 30. sales goals, stock, inventory turn, and purchase plans for the coming six-month season 31. planning what to buy, Searching markets, sales promotion, organizing merchandise in departments, sales taining and sales 32,thee) save trips to market by reviewing lines, send out bulletins eportng on fashion trends, check into general conditions of supply and demand, advice on promotions and operations, organize group purchases, may develop private label merchandise 33. ideal way to buy broad but 37shallow assortment of merchandise to test consumer reaction before buying in depth; short cycle buying is buying closer te the selling season also in order to jude market conditions 34 line buying: buying from key resources who have reputation for sales and dependability; tend buying: seeking out exciting new resources 35. operations management: director of stores, store managers, ‘soup sales managers, floor or area managers, and department managers maintain the retail building, protect the store, provide customer services, coordinate movement of goods and people, and work towards postive sales 36. general merchandise managers, divisional merchandise ‘managers, group buyers, buyers and assistants do all the planning and activities necessary to bring the right merchandise into the store to satisfy customers (sales) 37. check sales figures; compare to previous week, month or year to see if sales increasing or decreasing: vendor analyses; use ratios such as average gross sales, sales per square foot and stock tur to evaluate success and do better planning in future 38. unit systems record numberof units ordered, received, in stock, or sold; inventory control (book) keeps records of dollar value of merchandise ordered, received, in stock, sold, transfers, and returs; physical inventory isthe actual item-by-item count of all merchandise in stock to confirm computer records. 39. promotions are special buys at low prices which are passed on the consumer, markdowns are reduced pries in oder to clear out stale merchandise 40. Plans for receipts, sales, mark-ups, mark-downs, inventory shortages, end-of-month stock levels, ‘weeks of supply, and gross margin. 41. Consumer demand, economic conditions, shifts in population, competition, needed renovations, department effectiveness, market and trend analyses, seasonal demand, holidays, promotional activities, and asi stock. 42. Diversifying merchandise to accommodate market segment preferences vs. same image and merchandise throughout chain. 43. Consistency of imageand consumer recognition through national advertising vs. cost savings and exclusivity. 44, They have items copied by a contractor, havea line designed by a design service set up their own design dept, or work with a manufacturer to produce an exclusive line 38CHAPTER 1S SUPPLEMENTARY TE: su JONS Store image—Colleet catalogs from stores across the country (you will use them in this ehapter to acquaint students with store image). Compare catalogs to try to discern slight variations of presentation. For ar obvious example, compare a Saks Fifth Avenue catalog with one from J.C. Penney. The students will immediately se that Saks presents a more sophisticated image, and has the higher prices to go with it. Also compare store catalogs with mail-order catalogs and department stores tospevalty stores. ‘Advertising examples Clip examples of clever fashion advertisements from magazines, newspapers, and direct mail pieces to show as you lecture, ‘Visual merchandising Request that your department allocate funds inthe budget to purchase a {splay case and two mannequins o that you can continuously feature presentations of student ‘work or historie costume. A local store might be persuaded 10 donate a case or mannequins as @ good-will gesture. The students can also practice their visual merchandising skis. FIELD TRIP OR GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS ashion editor —Visit or invite a local newspaper fashion or lifestyle editor to speak to your class conceming the criteria used for selecting publicity to appear in the newspaper. Advertising department —Arrange to have the students visit the advertising department ofa store oF an advertising agency that has retail customers. sk to be shown how an ad is pu together. Ask if YoU might have old layouts and the actual ads to use in class. Eashion shows—Through these events, students learn about one kind of fashion marketing and also see the work of popular designers. Today, due to high costs, only afew designer trunk shows oF formal charity shows are presented. rire ‘| ‘Creating a new store—Students should imagine they are opening a store. They should decide on their target customers and write a customer profile. Using that information, they should find « location in your ares that would be the best o reach that customer. They should deseribe how the store should look and how they plan to create the store's image: Cooperative advertising —Have the students find and clip from thet fashion magazine collection five examples of co-op advertising. They should mount the examples on paper and list the names ofthe fiber produce, fabric producer (if mentioned), manufacturer, and retailer. 9Advertising campaign analysis—The students should analyze the advertising campaign of large chain store. You might wat to asign a different store to cach student. Students should search through newspapers and magazines over a two-month period and clip or photocopy ads for the assigned store. ‘Are the ads always on the same page ofthe newspaper? Do they use photography or illustrations? Do they have a high fashion image ora popular appeal? Do they show the merchandise to good ‘advantage? Does each student feel thatthe advertisements are effective? Each student should write their comments and illustrate it with their clippings. Visual merchandising evaluation Have each student visita local department or specialty’ store to ‘evaluate is visual merchendising. Does display complement and carry out the theme ofthe merchandise? Describe tie decor and display techniques, both in the windows and interiors. Is lighting used effectively? Is the merchandise atractively arranged? Is the total image of the store sucessfully related to the merchandise offered? ‘Video advertising —As a group project, students ean produce their own television ad. Have them First plan what they are geing to advertise and for what kind of store. They should write out ideas, script, rehearse student-madels and/or student-actors within an exact time frame (sixty seconds for example). Students can take roles as store advertising director, merchandise manager, producer, ‘video director, eamera operator (use someone's home video camera), wardrobe stylist, location manager, music editor, prop manager, voice-over announcer, models and actors ‘TEST. QUESTIONS Definitions Define the following terms in relation to their se inthe text 1. Fashion marketing 2. Advertising 3. Media 4. Image advertising S. Direct mail 6. Cooperative advertising 7. Copy 8. Traffic 9. Special events 10. Press package 1. Trunk shows 12. Visual merchandising 13. Display packages 14, Standards manuals 15. Which store executives are involved in marketing? 16, The largest part ofthe fashion marketing budget is usually allocated to what? 7, What are the communications media used in fashion advertising? 18, The best advertising is always planned from whose point of view? 19. To maintain public interest, what are two necessary ingredients for advertising? 20. What isthe benefit of advertising ina fashion magazine? 21. What is a benefit of advertising fashion on television?” 22. What is the major drawback of television advertising? 23. What kinds of stores advertise on national television? 24, Why is diteot mail an effective form of advertising? 25. What are the three divisions ofthe retail store advertising department? 26. How is an advertising agency paid for its work? 27, How do retail stores gt publicity? 28. Name two types of sore interior displays. Essay questions oo29, What decisions musta store make before it can plan its fashion marketing? 30. Name and explain te three basi types of advertisements 31. Deseribe an advertising plan, what its based on and what i includes. 32. Explain four ressons why newspaper advertising is popular with retailers. 33. Explain the dference between advertising and publicity 34. What are the purposes of special events? 35. Describe two types of fashion shows. 36. Discuss the goa sof visual merchandising 37. Diseuss how displays are planned. 38. Explain the thee types of window displays. 39. Why must the buyer be involved in marketing? SWER KEY Definitions answers: |. effort to further sales by means of advertising, publicity, special events, and visual merchandising; communicating a store image or the existence ofa product to consumers 2. planning, writing, designing, and scheduling of paid announcements to attract customers 3, ‘methods of transmiting a message 4. concentrates on store image 5. effective form of advertising ‘because itis addressed to each potential customer includes statement enclosures, catalogs, brochures) 6. textile producers and/or manufacturers may cooperate financially with retail stores to advertise their products 7. written description in an ad 8. low of artwork and copy between stor printers, photographers, and media 9. events to attract customers into the store 10, news release and photographs seneto media to try to obtain publicity 11. designers travel with their entire collection from which customers may order 12. visual means to communicate store's fashion ‘message tothe public 13. display packages assembled by the corporate visual merchandising office for use in branch stores so thatthe entire group or chain will have the same look 14. exact specifications for consistent visual merchandising Short answers: 15, sales promotion director, directors of each promotional area (advertising, special events, visual merchandising) buyers and merchandise managers. 16. advertising. 17. television, radio, newspapers, magazines, billboards, direct mail 18. the eustomer’s 19. consistency and repetition 20. national circulation 21. to show how fashion fits into real life situations 22. cost 23, large nationwide stores 24, because itis personally addressed to each potential customer 25, fart, copy, production 26. by a monthly retainer fee or commission 27. by sending publicity packages to various media 28, vignettes (lifestyle) or single items Essay answer key: 29. target customer; store image; what to promote, when to promote it and how {o reach target market 30. image: focuses on store image, goodwill or event; item: focuses on singe item; promotional: price directed 31. guide fora specific time period based on past experience, present conditions, and future expectations ineludes budget and timetable. 32, (Four) visual and verbal means of communication; may be daily; easy to produce: media costs comparatively low: quick turn time 33. stores must pay media costs for advertising: no media costs but media editors choose what they want to use 34, to attract customers into the store or ereate goodwill 35. (two) formal: advance planning, expensive; department: in-store fo immediate sales; designer trunk shows: single vendor takes orders; informal: models walkthrough store 36. entice consumer into store and appropriate department; effectively present fashions; show customer how to wear and accessorize 37. a theme is planned; seasonal calendar prepared indicating dates, 6merchandise to be featured and number and location of windows and interior displays. 38. special- event; fashion-messages and direct-sell 39. so that merchandise they buy is promoted aAPPENDIX far IND GUEST SPEAKER SUGGESTIONS Exposune—Try to expose the student to as many jbs inthe industry as posible on fed trips. On ‘ach vist, be sure toask about the Background education, taining, and experience ofthe professionals you meet. ASk ther advice on getting started in the eld. Ask to meet young people ‘who have entry leve job so that students gta realistic idea of how a person starts out ina carer PROJECT ASSIGNMENTS Resumé—Have each student write a draft oftheir resumé, They should include information on ir education, awards, experience, and interests that directly relate to their chosen field. Review the draft with them, helping them to organize and define their skill, and to eliminate unnecessary ‘experiences. Have tiem type the final version on computer in a visually pleasing outline form, This final draft can be printed on a laser printer. Personal analysis—Ask each student to realistically evaluate thei own skill, talents, and career zoals, Do they prefer to work with groups of people or alone? What fashion career would bring, them the greatest satisfaction? Why? They should list the positive aspects and benefits ofthis chosen career path as wel as the negative. How is their educational background preparing them? Would they 20 on far more schooling? How will they enter the field and what are thei future advancement expectations in what length of time? Portfolio development—Design and communication majors should make an outline of what they plan to include in thet portfolios, They should bring examples of their work to class that might be included. Help them to select only the best examples and to develop an overall graphic theme fora professional presentation 1 Fach student should arrange to interview a professional in their chosen field (Gesigner, retailer, sles ep, ete). They should ask them about al aspects ofthe job: what they Tike about it, what they don’ like, what makes it interesting, how they got their stat, how they advanced. They should ask for advice in pursuing their own careers. This will give them practice in talking with professionals about business so that they will fel a little more relaxed when it ‘comes fo their own interviews, ESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION |. What are the differences in location requirements for jobs in textiles, retailing, manufacturing, and marketing? 2. What variety of jobs is ble that involve working with textiles? 3, Discuss the preprations needed fora career asa designer. 4. What careers are most appropriate for outgoing people who like public contact? ‘5. What are the two major tracks for eareer advancement in retailing?6. Why are so many different kinds of positions available in retailing? 17. Describe five ereative careers in fashion. 8. Describe five technical careers in fashion. 9. What important preparations are necessary before a job interview? 10. What traits do fashion businesses look for in prospective employees?