ShNardria Peterson

Costume History
*Renaissance
The renaissance was a period of exciting cultural changes that began in the mid 14th
century and lasted until the end of the 16th century. It began in Italy and swept across all of
Europe, implementing styles from Spain, Germany, France, Italy and Rome. This period
represented the rebirth wherein a new society and culture began to appear. Music, poetry,
theatre, philosophy and art where now appearing everywhere and very popular. Students from
the North went to Italy to learn about the renaissance and take what they had learned back to
their countries, which began the wide spread of the
renaissance movement.
Moretto da Brescia also known as
Alessandro Bonvicino or Alessandro Moretto is an
Italian high renaissance painter. Morettos work was
influenced by Giorgione and Titian(Natl Gallery).
Majority of Morettos paintings were for religous
foundations in and around Brescia. The portrait on
the left is Portrait of a Lady in White, it is from
1540. It is noted by the National Gallery that this
woman may have been from the provinical Veneto, and she was the owner of a Turkish carpet
which is a sign of wealth during this particular period.

The portrait was done in 1540 and the garment which this lady wears reflects influences
from the Italian as well as the Northern renaissance. The garment would have been tailor made
for this lady. To start the ensemble she would have on a camica which is the Italian chemise
worn as the undergarment beneath the dress, then a second overdress on top. The camica is
made of linen, however this womens camica is made of a higher quality of fabric. The camica
would worn under her garment is full length to the floor. The sleeves of the camica are long
ruffled and can be seen pulled out from under her dress sleeves at her wrist in a decorative way.
Her camica is also shown through the slashes of her out dress that are being fastened together by
gold aiguilettes which was introduced during the Northern renaissance. To go along with the
camica was a camicie, it is made of light weight fabric which was then available in the 16th
century because of changes in technology. This made it possible for lace and more decorative
patterning on fabrics. The camicie was cut high to the neck that is embroidered and finished off
with a small neckline ruffle.
The ladys mid section is stiffened by a U shaped corset that is over her camica. Over the
U shaped corset is a verdugale and more than likely a bumroll which makes her dress look like a
tent, and gathers the fabric at the waistin a way it almost looks pleated, as well as giving off the
idea that she has a tiny waist. Over the bumroll and verdugale is her petticoat which you can see
from the picture above is green with what looks like is gold embroidery. The petticoat she is
wearing is most likely made of satin material as well as her dress with sleeves. The style of
dress she is wearing was more commonly seen in the Northern renaissance because of the slashes
in the sleeves, the big puff at the shoulder, and then forms closely to the wrist at the bottom.
Embroidered into the dress are gold wristlets that wrap around both her wrist.

To accompany the ladys garment, are various accessories. Her hair is pulled up into a
well decorated braid, with a turbanlike headdress, popular in the 16th century that was derived
from the Turkish headdress. The turbanlike headdress she is wearing looks to be jeweled with
precious gems or maybe pearls an constructed from gold. Attached to that looks to be a small
jeweled piece hanging from her hair. The lady is also wearing two different necklaces. The
shorter one of the two is common during the 16th century, it made of all gold, with a gold
pendent and emerald jeweled matching her petticoat, and what looks to be either a pearl or a
diamond at the tip of the pendant.
With such fine jewelry this lady would have been apart of the wealthy class. The longer
necklace looks to be made of gold but because of the shape of each ball the necklace maybe
constructed of pearls. To show off her wealth and class even more the lady has on three rings,
one of which is located on her marital finger which may suggest that she is married or engaged.
In one hand she is holding a pair of gloves that match her dress, and would also be made out of
the same material as her dress. In her opposite hand she holding a feather fan which was
common for high class women during the italian renaissance. The ladys shoes are not shown in
the portrait but as a women from Italy she my have worn chopines, high platformed shoes.
*Baroque
The Baroque period generally dated from the end of the 16th century to the middle of the
18th century. The term Baroque was referred to the artistic style that developed during this
period. It was a period of lavish ornamentation, free & flowing lines, flat and curved forms.
During this time the Catholic and protestant churches were very influential. The major European
power was now France, England and Spain. Clothing during the Baroque period was a reflection

of artwork. Trading of goods affected the style of dress because now the imported goods now
included imported fibers, fabrics, and actual garments(Survey of Historic Costume).
During the Baroque period, mannerism served as the bridge between the Renaissance and
the Baroque styles. Justus Sustermans also known as Giusto Susutermans was a Baroque style
painter. He is well known for his portraits done of the Medici family, he was their court painter.
Majority of Sustermans career was with the Medici family. Below is one of Sustermans
portraits, It is Margherita Di Cosimo II portrait of a
Medici Princess during the 17th century.
At this particular time, garments like the one
Margherita is wearing, was only worn for ceremonial
purposes. It was just too much to put on everyday. To
begin the ensemble, she is wearing a white linen
chemise. Thanks to changes in technology, lace was
now possible and seen on garments. The chemise that
she is wearing has been pulled out from under her dress.
This particular was popular in the mi 16h century, it has

a wide laced collar, as well as decorative laced wrist at

the end of her sleeve.
The stiffness and shape of her mid-section suggest that she has on a V shaped stomacher.
The busk of Margheritas stomacher has been decorated on the outside of her dress with what
looks to be either gold or bronze fasteners. Attached to the stomacher around her waist is a
wheel farthingale that is now flattened on the front part of still widens out on the sides, giving

her a peplum waistline. Over the wheel farthingale at this time is a petticoat but it is said that
some women may have worn two layers of under dress petticoats. By wearing two layers, it
makes the garment look more fuller. The petticoat the Margherita is wearing has decorative gold
stripe pattern going down it, and the contrast slightly from the outer skirt that she is wearing
which has gold floral embroidered prints.
Underneath Margheritas sleeves are another layer of sleeves from her chemise which is
pulled out at her wrist. The outer garment that she is wearing is neatly decorated with gold
embroidery and made out of luxurious satin material. The fabric looks to be heavy in weight.
The mid-section of the garment where the stomacher is located is decorated opposite of the rest
of the garment with gold striped going across the white and gold stripes angled down, diagonally
toward the bust.
Attached to Margheritas outer dress is a brooch, from the late middle ages. She appears
to be wearing pearl earrings. Around her neck is a pearl necklace and she also has pearl bracelets
on both wrist. On her right hand she is wearing two rings, although hard to make out, they seam
to both be made of gold, as does the brooch she is wearing which is incrusted with gems. To add
to her garment she is holding a fan, which was common for women to carry during the 15th and
16th century. Margheritas hair is pulled back in a bun a popular hairstyle seen during this period
. She also has a decorative headband that spirals out at the top of her head on each side.
Although her shoes are not visible, she would definitely have a pair on. Margherita would have
had on a pair of pantofle , which were popular during the 17th century or a pair of chopines that
were popular during the 1500s renaissance period.

*Conclusion
Both garments of in each portrait are made of heavy luxurious satin fabrics and are
decoratively embroidered. The chemise/camica is the most common between the two. However
the way that they compliment the garment as a whole is different in the way that Margheritas
chemise has a wide lace collar, and the lady in A Portrait of a Lady chemise is somewhat
reserved, not as elaborate.
The sleeves of both garments are different in a way that one is puffy at the top but forms
around the rest of the arm right down to the elbow. The opposite garment is just straight down
with no puffs. Margherita has a on a farthingale that flattens in the front, giving her a peplum
waistline, while the opposite portrait has on a bumroll and a regular farthingale so her dress
looks gathered at the waistline. Both women are wearing some type of support around their midsection. A Portrait of a Lady is wearing a U shaped corset, and Margherita is wearing a V shaped
stomacher. Jewelry is apart of both garments attire Both women are wearing simple drop
earrings that matches their dress. A Portrait of a Lady is is wearing two elaborate gold necklaces,
one being a pendant with a gemstone in the middle, and she is also wearing rings on both hands.
Margheritas jewelry is not as elaborate as the other. Sh has on a simple pearl necklace, with
matching pearl bracelets on each wrist, and she is wearing only one ring with a gemstone in it.
In both portraits the women have flat hair with decorative hair accessories, the only
difference is the way in which their hair is pulled back. Margherita has curls around the front of
her hair and A Portrait of a Lady does not. The head gear that she is wearing is a turban like head
band, while Margherita has on a thin headband that spirals out on each side with gemstone
incrusted in it.

Both garments are beautiful and have similar things about each other. The influence from
the renaissance definitely shows through in the baroque period. Technological influences have
helped helped define each garment into it own, making them stand out from previous periods.
The portraits are great examples of changes throughout the two periods as they are similar and
different all at once.