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Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Assembly
of a
hhs/1

Recumbent
Bike

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

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Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Content:
1

Introduction. _______________________________________________________________ 3
1.1

Abbreviations. _________________________________________________________ 3

1.2

History. _______________________________________________________________ 3

1.3

References. ____________________________________________________________ 3

1.4
Tooling assumptions. ____________________________________________________ 3
Design and calculations.______________________________________________________ 4
2.1

Bike assumptions._______________________________________________________ 4

2.2

Main tube ._____________________________________________________________ 4

2.3
Rear fork. _____________________________________________________________ 5
3 Assembly guidelines._________________________________________________________ 9
3.1
The rear fork. __________________________________________________________ 9
3.1.1
Spring mount.______________________________________________________ 11
3.2
The main tube. ________________________________________________________
3.2.1
Pedal mount. _____________________________________________________
3.2.2
Head tube mount. ___________________________________________________
3.2.3
Rear fork mount. ___________________________________________________
3.2.4
Seat mount.________________________________________________________
3.2.5
Spring mount.______________________________________________________

11
12
13
14
16
16

3.3

The rear fork and main tube assembled. ___________________________________ 17

3.4

The stear _____________________________________________________________ 18

3.5
The seat ______________________________________________________________ 19
3.5.1
The mounting of the seat._____________________________________________ 20
3.6
The chain_____________________________________________________________ 21
3.6.1
Chain wheel. _______________________________________________________ 21
3.6.2
Chain tube. ________________________________________________________ 22
3.7

The pedalmount or The bottom bracket tube _______________________________ 22

3.8
Cable guide ___________________________________________________________ 23
4 The final bicycle ___________________________________________________________ 24
4.1
Later adjustments._____________________________________________________
5 Appendix A1. Main tube. ____________________________________________________
6 Appendix A2. Rear Fork. ____________________________________________________
7 Appendix A3: Head tube template _____________________________________________
8
Appendix A3: Rear dropouts. _________________________________________________
9 Appendix A4: Chain wheel. __________________________________________________
10 Appendix A5: Seat mount.___________________________________________________
11 Appendix A6: Rear fork spring mount._________________________________________
12 Appendix A7: Additional drawings. ___________________________________________
13 Appendix A8. Bikepart. _____________________________________________________

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

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34

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Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

1 Introduction.
The following is an assembly description of what is called a hhs/1
recumbent bike.
This design has been made after 4 years of practice with used bicycle s
which have been turned into recumbent bikes. I thought it was about time
that I made a nice-looking bike, which was not made out of a square tube
and an old bicycle.
The main idea is still that most of the assembly can be done at home. No
need for special equipment. There is a small exception regarding this
when it comes to the main tube. This has to be bent by someone who can
bend a 50 mm tube. When this is done the rest should be easy for an
experienced recumbent bike builder !
Since this document is made while building the recumbent bike, there
may be changes to the final design, compared to what it looked like when
I started. The drawings in the appendix should reflect the final design.

1.1 Abbreviations.
Abbreviation

Description

HPV

Human Powered Vehicle

Liggecykel

Recumbent bike

www.hpvklub.dk

Aalborg liggecykle klub (Aalborg recumbent bike club)

1.2 History.
Date

Ver

Description

2002-10-07

Initial version

2003-02-16

New pictures and updated figures.

2003-07-22

Minor changes and some new pictures of the rear fork.

1.3 References.
Reference
1

Description
Homebuilt Recumbent Bike Parts

1.4 Tooling assumptions.


Except for some special parts (the main tube) it is the intention that the
present recumbent bike can be built at home.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 3 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

In order to do so you need to have the following tools at your disposal:


A welding machine
A drilling stand
Some kind of grinding machine (to make life easier !)
Ordinary toolbox with screwdriver, file, adjustable spanner.

2 Design and calculations.


2.1 Bike assumptions.
I have been riding an Evita (Hurricane dublicate) for some time. I like
the design and the way it performs. The only drawback, as I see it, is lack
of suspension. So my intention was to design a low recumbent bike with
suspension.
The design I came up with can be seen in the next figure.
Figure 1:

The
recumbent bike
with suspension.

Dimensions:
Wheelbase

113 cm

Front wheel size

20 ETRTO 406

Rear Wheel size

20 ETRTO 406

Rear suspension length.

150 mm

Seat height

470 mm

Seat angle
Material frame

40
Steel

Material seat

Wood

Weight

App 18 kg

2.2 Main tube.


Below the main tube (the bended 50 mm tube) can be seen.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 4 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 2:
The main tube.

In Appendix A1. Main tube. the main tube is shown in detail with
meassures. This chapter will describe the intention behind the design.
The tube is 50 mm in order to be able to have a secure attachment for the
headset tube. The radius of the two bends is 150 mm. This is due to what
I could get in the neigbourhood. Other dimensions can be used but try to
keep the dimensions between the three straight lines of the tube.
The pedals (or the bottom bracket) are attached to another smaller tube
which goes inside the 50 mm tube. The next figure shows how the front of
the 50 mm tube is made in order to secure the inner tube with the pedals.
Figure 3:
The front of the 50
mm tube.

Through the two nuts a bolt will fit and keep it all together. The design is
made with 8 mm bolts, but 6 mm will do as well.

2.3 Rear fork.


Below the rear fork is shown.
In Appendix A2. Rear Fork. the rear fork is shown in detail with
meassures on. This chapter will describe what it consists of.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 5 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 4:
The rear fork.

Figure 5:
Exploded view
of the rear fork.

The idea is to make a fork which is as stiff as possible. This is done by


making an A. The fork is welded together at the top and 1/3 down.
The fork is attached to the main tube by two ball bearings This may seem
as an expensive solution, but compared to what a ball bearing costs and
how much work needs to be done in order to make another nice looking
solution, the ball bearings were chosen.

  
Figure 6:
Detailed design
of the ball
bearing
attachment.



  


  


  

354*6 687:9%4*; < =


>
!
!#"%$&('#)*"
+-,/.(0%1/.(,
2*0

?@:A ACB*DE@:F G H#I


  

As can be seen in the above figure the solution consists of two ball
bearings and an 35 mm outer tube and an inner 15 mm tube. If your ball
bearings have other dimensions adjust accordingly. The inner tube is 15
mm, but other dimensions can be used. The inner tube keeps the ball
bearings in position when tightened.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 6 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

The two V Brake Pivots have been placed below the fork in order not to
conflict with the chain.
The rear dropouts are made out of a piece of metal which is bent in the
right angle.
Figure 7:
Rear dropouts.

Dimensions of the two dropouts can be seen in Appendix A3: Rear


dropouts.
In the above figure the dropouts have been shaped to fit the oval tube.
This can usually not be done before they have been welded to the oval
tube.
I found a manufacturer who made the dropouts for me. They can be seen
in the next figure.
Figure 8:
Laser cut rear
dropouts.

The rear fork is made for a 406 20 wheel. In case you want a bigger
wheel, the design can be extended, but I have no experience of how the
recumbent bike will behave with a bigger wheel.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 7 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

If you try to make a rear fork for a bigger wheel, you have to figure out the
angle (138,6 o) between the oval tube and the rear dropout. You still have
to maintain the 130 mm distance between the two dropouts.
In case you cant make the above mentioned dropouts, you can use a
small piece of metal bent in a 90 degree angle as shown in the next
pictures.
Figure 9:
Alternative rear
dropouts.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 8 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

3 Assembly guidelines.
The following describes how I assembled the hhs/1 . There are probably
other and better ways to do it, but it gives an idea about how to do it.
In order to have a bike which is not distorted, you will have to start
making the rear fork. When that is done, you can start looking at the main
tube. You need the rear fork in order to attach several of the mounts to
the main tube.

3.1 The rear fork.


The easiest way to make the oval tubes fit the small 35 mm tube, is to cut
a piece of the oval tube at the double length and make a 35 mm hole in
middle. This can be seen in the next figure.
Figure 10:
Before the oval
tube is cut into
two.

Next you cut out the small 35 mm tube and the inner 15 mm tube.
Then it is time for the two rear dropouts which hold the wheel. Here you
need some kind of tool which can bend the dropout in the right angle. (or
some heating device) When you cut out the metal piece which is going to
make the dropout you need to know how you will bend the metal. Some
times in order to fit the tool the initial metal piece need to be longer than
the final one.
Now you have the main parts for the rear fork and can start planning to
assemble the pieces.
Before you can assemble the rear fork you need to have some kind of jig.
At Aalborg liggecykel klub we have made a standard jig for making the
Odense cykel. This has been used for making the rear fork, but it may
be simpler to put the pieces on a flat surface, instead of having it hang in
the air. The jig can be seen in the next picture:

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 9 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 11:
The rear fork
ready for
welding.

The next picture shows how the oval tube is connected to the bended
metal piece which acts as a dropout.
Figure 12:
The oval tube
attached to the
reardropout.

In order to seal the rear fork completely the two parts have to be welded
together inside before the oval tube is welded to the small 35 mm tube.
This is shown in the next figure.
Figure 13:
The rear fork
before and after
being welded
inside.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 10 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

The inside welding is done after the oval tubes have been partly welded
to the rear dropouts. By doing this they stay in the jig.

3.1.1 Spring mount.


The spring mount at the rear fork is made out of a ready-made mount for
an ordinary bicycle, with a u-shaped tube attached to it. The two pieces
can be seen in the next figure.
Figure 14:
Rear fork
spring mount.

The spring mount can be seen in the next two pictures. Since there was
no u-shaped tube available at the moment when the mount was made,
two small pieces of metal were used instead.
The actual dimensions can be seen in Appendix A6: Rear fork spring
mount.
The next pictures show how it looked when welded.
Figure 15:
Spring
mount after
welding.

3.2 The main tube.


This is how my 50 mm tube looked when I received it from the
manufacturer:

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 11 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 16:
The 50 mm
tube bend at
the right
dimensions.

The main thing is to get a nice round bend which hasnt collapsed.

3.2.1 Pedal mount.


Below the front of the main tube is shown.
Figure 17:
Front of the
main tube.

In order to make the slit, the easiest way is to use a compass saw. Make
a 5 mm wide mark and cut it with a special blade. I found it much easier
than using a grinder. When this is done you can either weld small nuts on
or make small tubes which are welded on. The next picture shows how
the small tubes are welded on.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 12 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 18:
Attaching the
small tubes at
the front of the
main tube.

As can be seen in the picture small spacers are used to position the small
tubes.
The dimensions of the small tubes shown in the above picture can be
seen in the next figure.
R
V
QXQ

Figure 19:
The small tubes
which are used
to tighten the
main tube.

P#Q Q

ROV#QWQ

J#KMLON N

R
S
QXQ

Y QUQ

R STQUQ

Please note that the two parts are different. (A) has a 8 mm thread while
(B) only has 8.5 mm hole without a thread.

3.2.2 Head tube mount.


Mounting the head tube onto the main tube is somewhat difficult. You
need to cut a hole in the main tube at the right angle. In order to do so
you need to take the figure in Appendix A3: Head tube template and
enlarge it to a scale of 1:1.
Then you place the main tube on top of it and mark the hole for the head
tube. For details see next picture.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 13 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 20:
Guidelines for
placing the
head tube.

Next you need to cut the hole in the main tube. This can be somewhat
difficult, so be sure to start with a hole which is too small and then enlarge
it.
In order to have sufficient clearance for the chain, the head tube need at
least 35 mm below the main tube as shown in the next figure.

Figure 21:
Length of the
head tube.

^#_]`W`

Z#[]\W\

3.2.3 Rear fork mount.


The rear fork is attached to the main tube by two mountings as shown in
the next figure.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 14 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 22:
The rear fork
mount.

The two mounts are something which I found readymade, but they can
have any other shape. The dimensions of the mounts used here can be
seen in the next figure.
acbedfd

Figure 23:
Details of the
rear fork mount
at the main
tube.

limeqrq

lnmno5p
yntzq{q

gihkjfj
sutvqwq

scteqfq

x sit

meqrq

The actual attachment of the mounts to the main tube was done by using
the jig used in the rear fork section. The main concern is to have the
headset of stear and the rear dropouts fully aligned.
The next figure tries to give an idea about this. The angle between the
o
two read lines need to be 90 This is done by having a jig that fixes the
headset and the reardropouts as shown in the next figure.
Figure 24:
How to align
main tube
and rear fork.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 15 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

The red line which goes straight through the length of the bike must not
be bent. This may happen if the rear fork is not alignede parallel with the
red line.
If you dont get it right the first time, it is better to cut things appart and
start over at this point. If you wait it will be more difficult later !

3.2.4 Seat mount.


The seat mount consists of two pieces of metal measuring 10x20x140
mm. The thicknes of the mounting is 2 mm. They can be seen in the next
picture.
Figure 25:
Seat mount
attached to the
main tube.

The position of the seat mounting can be seen in Appendix A1.


The chosen solution is simple, and any other solution can be used
instead. The only requirement is that it stays in position !
The mounting of the seat is shown later.

3.2.5 Spring mount.


The mounting of the spring is made so that the spring can have several
attachements. The next picture shows how.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 16 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 26:
The spring
mount at the
main tube.

The dimensions can be varied and so can the placement. If the mount is
moved further up (to the left in the picture), the spring will seem soft while
moved further down (to the right in the picture) the spring will seem
harder.
The dimensions of the mount shown in the picture can be seen in the
next figure.
kk
Figure 27:
Spring mount
at the main
tube. Thicknes
is 3 mm.

*e

ev
*ze

ev

*ze

| }z~e~

Tze

The above-shown spring mount may have other dimensions which fit your
needs.

3.3 The rear fork and main tube assembled.


The next picture shows the rear fork with the spring attached to the main
tube.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 17 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 28:
The rear fork
and the spring
mountet at the
main tube.

The length of the spring I used is 150 mm. Please keep in mind that the
springs available come in many different lengths.

3.4 The stear


The chosen overseat steering solution can be adjusted during the ride. I
myself prefer overseat stearing so this will be the only solution presented
here. I dont know if I will make an underseat stear in the future.
As can be seen in the pictures below, the stear consists of two parts:
a long adjustable stem, and
the stear itself.
Figure 29:
The complete
stear after
welding and
the stem
alone

The adjustable stem is made out of an ordinary stem which is cut apart.
The next figure shows how.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 18 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 30:
Where do the
parts come
from? and the
new mount .

If you dont want an adjustable stear there is another design in Ref[1]

3.5 The seat


The seat is a proven solution (to me and Aalborg liggecykel klub) and
consists of 3 pieces of birch veneer (size 220 x 1000 x 4 mm) which are
pressed into the right shape by the jig shown in the next picture.
Figure 31:
Seat jig.

The final result can be seen in the next picture.


Figure 32:
The seat before
it is painted.

In Ref [1] you can se other types of seats and seat jigs.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 19 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Any other type of seat can be used. The main thing is that it fits your body
and that you feel comfortable.

3.5.1 The mounting of the seat.


Seat mount solution 1:
The following was the original design.
It is made out of two pices of metal which are bent 90 degrees and one
lager pice to connect them.
The three pices are welded together and grinded to give a smooth
surface. The result can be seen in the next figure.
Figure 33:
Seat mount
solution 1
after welding
and painting.

The actual design of the seat mount can be seen in appendix A5.
Seat mount solution 2:
In order to reduce the amount of work needed to make the seat mounts
an alternative method was used. There is one drawback to this solution,
you need some kind of tool which can bend a 3 mm metal piece.
Figure 34:
Seat mount
solution 2
before paint.

The additional two metal pieces have been added in order to be able to
adjust the angle of the seat.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 20 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

The actual design of the seat mount can be seen in Appendix A5: Seat
mount.

3.6 The chain


The chain consists of 2 ordinary chains which have been assembled
into one big chain.
In order to guide the chain a chain wheel and a chain tube have to be
used.

3.6.1 Chain wheel.


The chain wheel can be seen in the next figure:
Figure 35:
Finished chain
wheel with ball
rollerblade
bearing.

The actua l dimensions of the chain wheel used can be seen in appendix
A4. The ball bearings used are taken from an old rollerblade.
In order to attach the chain wheel to the main tube a small mount has
been made. The small mount can be seen in the next picture.
Figure 36:
Chain wheel
mount.
It measures
20x30x4mm

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 21 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

3.6.2 Chain tube.


In order to protect the rider from getting greased by the chain some kind
of protection is needed. This protection is done by a chain tube. For chain
tubes a plastic-garden-watering-system tube or similar can be used.
The one used so far is 12 mm PVC. It come in a roll and will not lie
straight. In order to get the tube straightened out hot water is poured into
the tube.
First cut the right length and position the tube so it can hang at full length
without touching the ground. Put a plug in the low end and pour hot (appr
100o C) water into the tube. This has to be done very carefully since
the air in the tube will cause the hot water to splash while escaping the
tube.
The next picture shows how the chain tube looks when straitend.
Figure 37:
Chain tube
made out of 15
mm plastic
tube.

Other plastic chain tubes may be used, but some of the plastic materials
are quite noisy.

3.7 The pedalmount or The bottom bracket tube


The pedal mount consists of a bottom bracket mounted on a tube as
shown in the next picture.
Figure 38:
The pedal
mount after
welding.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 22 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

The tube has to be smaller than the tube used for the rest of the
recumbent bike. Since the main tube measures 50 mm with 2 mm
thicknes the bottom bracket tube measures 45 mm. This leaves 0.5 mm
for paint.
The next picture shows how the peadalmount is attached to the rest of
the main tube.
Figure 39:
The pedal
mount attached
to the main
tube.

In case the pedal mount is too big to fit the main tube, it needs to be
shortened. It is on the other hand advised not to shorten the pedalmount
until you are absolutly sure of the length.
Please remember that if the tube is shortened too much, the chain, the
pedals or your feet may hit the front wheel.

3.8 Cable guide


In order to guide the cable for the rear derailleur I have made some small
cablestops as shown in the next picture:
Figure 40:
Two cablestops
at the rear fork.

The welding of the cable stop can be done in the following way:
Figure 41:
Welding of the
cablestops at
the rear fork.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 23 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

The final bicycle


The picture below shows what the final recumbent bike looks like.

The front fork will not be the final one, but will be used until I have made
one which fits the rest of the design.
As the picture also indicates, the seat has to be redesigned so the space
between the main tube and the seat can be reduced.

4.1 Later adjustments.


In order to fit the chain tube I have made several small mounts.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 24 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Appendix A1. Main tube.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 25 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

6 Appendix A2. Rear Fork.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 26 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

7 Appendix A3: Head tube template


The following figure has to be enlarged so it is in a scale of 1:1.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 27 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

8 Appendix A3: Rear dropouts.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 28 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

9 Appendix A4: Chain wheel.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 29 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

10 Appendix A5: Seat mount.


Version 1:

TT

The two holes with 106 mm in between have to match the holes in the seat.

Version 2:
This seat mount is made out of a small piece of metal which is 3mm thick and bended
90 degreees in two places.This results in a very wide u-shape seat mount.
T
T

OW
TTU

#O

OO#W

O#W

#O

:E#]

*%
X

In case other screws are used change R3 and R4 accordingly.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 30 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

11 Appendix A6: Rear fork spring mount.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 31 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

12 Appendix A7: Additional drawings.



X

Figure 42:
Detailed design
of the ball
bearing
attachment



X

5E *%E

#
E/#*

-(E#*

X

: :E* #

X
Figure 43:
Small tubes to
tighten the
main tube.

#MO

O#

OO

Figure 44:
Cross section
of the rearfork
tube.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 32 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

Figure 45:
Rear fork
mount on the
main tube.

Figure 46:
Rear fork
spring mount
on the main
tube.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 33 / 34

Description of a homebuilt recumbent bike

13 Appendix A8. Bikepart.


I have found the following picture somewhere at the Internet.
If you know who has designed the picture let me know.

Hans Henrik Skovgaard, Pernillevej 3, DK-9000 Aalborg, Denmark. e-mail: hhskovgaard@post3.tele.dk

Page 34 / 34

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