3! Maya The Bee & Willy Pattern for our little ones with love designed by Vanja Grundmann Amigurumibb 2013-2015 698 60Materials needed: — 2,0mm crochet hook — sport weight cotton yam (4 ply) in: = beige-orange-yellowish color for the body (difficult color to find, but if you have to choose between more orange(yellowish) or more beige like one, go for beige. Take Maya's or Willy's photo with you when going to buy yarn, and use them as your guide. That is best suggestion | can give. Like said not easy color to find.) | used 100g for Maya and Willy - black color yarn (body stripes) 50g will be more than enough — light yellow yarn for Maya's hair (50 g) = brown yam for Willy's hair — white yam for the wings — stuffing of your choice = needle for closing and sewing the parts together, — long sharp pointed needle for applying antennas on (| used long tapestry needle), — longer sharp pointed needle for adding eyes (if you'll make them my way) — carbon copy paper (for coping and reproducing same looking eyes | have made on my dolls and created stencils for you) — textile paints for eyes — white: = green - black you can use bottled paints and if having difficulties finding those, you can use pen looking ones, but in this case, squeeze the paint in little saucer and apply with fine brush (this way you can apply it in details and fill all the gaps between stitches). I haven't tried with acrylic paint, but as long as they are thick and don't run through your crocheted work (try this on little swatch before applying it on doll's face), will work fine. = round brushes in sizes 1 and 2/0 (or any other fine brush you have) - 6-10 mm yellow beads for antenna's ends (any kind of round beads will work well. | used natural wooden ones that | colored in yellow with marker) — clear textile glue — pipe cleaner, fuzzy wire (antennas) — you can use them in arms and legs to make limbs bendable (or, instead you can use plain wire, nicely wrapped and mounted inside the limbs) — eye shadow, powder blush, chalk or crayons in light pink; all these will work great to add little color to cheeks. — ifanything I've forgotten to mention in this section, sorry.... it happens :) - you will find it mentioned in the pattern Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi 2013-2015 1Finished size: Maya standing, from head to toes (without antennas) 25 cm (10°) Willy standing, from head to toes (without antennas) 28 cm (11”) Gauge: 8 rounds x 6 stitches in 1square inch (2,5 cm) Abbreviations: (US terminology) st(s) stitch(es) sist slip stitch sc single crochet ch chain inc increasing stitch (2 single crochet stitches worked in one stitch) dec decreasing stitch (two stitches together, invisible decrease used in this pattern) nose stitch 1.) yam over, work through the next st, yarn over, pull out the loop. You have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops . Two loops remain on the hook. 2.) Yam over, work through the same stitch, yarn over, pull out the loop. Having 4 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull the yam through 2 loops. 3 loops remain on the hook. 3.) Yam over, work through the same stitch, yarn over and pull out the loop. Having 5 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops. 4 loops remain on the hook. 4.) Yam over, work through the same stitch, yarn over and pull out the loop. Having 6 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops. 5 loops remain on the hook. 5.) Yam over and pull the loop through all 5 stitches. This way Maya's nose is done. For Willy's nose repeat the same steps as mentioned at Maya's nose: 14) 5.) Yam over, work through same stitch, yam over and pull out the loop. Having 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops. 6 loops remain on the hook. 6.) Yam over and pull the yarn through 6 loops FO fasten off Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi 2013-2015 2Maya's Head R1: cB in magic ring (8) R2:_inc8 (16) RB: (ine, sc) x8 (24) Ra: (inc, sc2) x8 (32) RS: (nc, sc3) x8 (40) R6: (inc, sc4) x8 (48) R7-R16: sc48 R17:_(inc, sc) x4, nose stitch, sc, (inc, sc) x4, sc30 (56) R18-R23:sc56 R24: (dec, sc) x4, sc2, (dec, sc) x4, sc30 (48) R25: (sc4, dec) x8 (40) R26: (dec, sc3) x8 (32) R27: (02, dec) x8 (24) R28: (dec, sc2) x6 (18) Fasten off. Stuff the head very firmly. Take your time to stuff it and shape it to nice round and firm head, with cheeks slightly pointing out. Head needs to be stuffed well. Willy's head R14: sc8 in magic ring (8) R2 scB 3: inc8 (16) Ra: sct6 RS: (inc, sc) x8 (24) R6: sc24 R7: (ine, sc2) x8 (32) R8: sc32 R9: (inc, sc3) x8 (40) R10: sc40 R11: (inc, se4) x8 (48) RI2ZR19: sc48 R20: (inc, sc) x4, nose stitch, sc, (ine, sc) x4, sc30 (66) R21-R26: sc56 R27: (dec, sc) x4, sc2, (dec, sc) x4, sc30 (48) R28: (sc4, dec) x8 (40) R29: (dec, sc3) x8 (32) R30: (sc2, dec) x8 (24) R31: (dec, sc2) x6 (18) Fasten off. Stuff the head very firmly. Take your time to stuff it and shape it to nice round and firm head, with cheeks slightly pointing out. Head needs to be stuffed well Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi 2013-2015 3Legs ‘Start with ch12 R1: sc12, 3 scin one st, continue working around chain, sca, inc (24) R2: cht, inc hde, hdc x3, sc7, 3sc in one st, sc7, hde3, inc hde x2, sI st to chain made at the beginning of this round (29) R3:__ cht, hde, inc hdc, hde x3, sc8, inc2, se8, hdc x3, inc hde, hdc, inc hdc, sist to chain made at the beginning of this round (34) Ra: cht, BLO sc34 RS: cht, sc13, dec, sc, dec, sc16, sl st to chain (32) R6: cht, sc13, dec2, sc15, sl st to chain (30) R7: cht, sc10, decd, sc12, sl st to chain (26) R8: cht, dec, sc8, dec2, sc8, dec, s¢2, sl st to chain (22) R9: cht, sc8, dec2, scB, dec, sI st to chain (19) R10: cht, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec2, sc, dec, sc, dec2, sl st to chain (12) stuff the foot nice and firm, paying attention to keep the shape nice. R11: sct2 R12:_ skip sl st made when closing round 10. sc12 R13-R25: sc12 if making bendable legs, prepare wire, place inside the leg and add stuffing. If making toy for child below age 3 don't use wire or anything else but stuffing. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 4Body To start with the body we need to connect legs first. We'll do it by making little “bridge” over three stitches placed on the inner side. ofeach leg. Start with right leg, using black colored yarn, sc over three stitches. On the photo | marked the stitches I'll work through. There is no special count on these. Simply work over three middle stitches on the inner legs side. su Work 3 rows x3 single crochets. Once done with the bridge, bring left leg close and attach the bridge over three stitches (you can work single crochets or slip stitches, whichever suit you better, important is to connect the bridge with the second leg). This way we kept the same number of stitches (24), but have created space between each leg. Now that we have both legs attached and bridge formed, we can start with our first found of the body. Pay attention that you finish the bridge on the back of the left foot. Look at the photo. Your first stitch next round should start on the beige part of the leg. RA: (sc, ine3) x2 (30) 9 stitches will be worked over leg, while increases are done over the bridge area) R2:° (inc, sc4) x6 (36) R3: (inc, sc5) x6 (42) R4-RS: s042 Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 5on the last stitch change color to orange Note: to make change color the least visible, make the slip stitch to the back loop of the following stitch. Then make single crochet working through both loops ofthe same stitch where slp stitch was Just made). When starting next rolind, skip the slip stitch and continue with your round usual way. R6-R10: — sc42 on last stitch change color to black R11: sc6, dec, sc24. Dec, sc6, dec (39) R12: sc39 R13: _sc5, dec, sc23, dec, sc5, dec (36) RI4-R15: sc36 on last stitch change color to orange R16: sc4, dec, sc22, dec, se4, dec (33) RIT: 8c33 R18: sc6, dec, sc19, dec, sc2, dec (30) R19-R20: sc30 on last stitch change color to black R21: sc6, dec, sc17, dec, sc, dec (27) R22: sc27 R23: sc6, dec, sc15, dec2 (24) R24-R25:sc24 R26: (dec, sc2) x6 (18) Fasten off leaving long end for sewing body to the head later. Stuff the body nice and firm. Arms make 2 Make fingers first! Thumb R1: sc5 in magic ring R2-R4: sc5 Fingers (x2) Rt: sed in magic ring R2-R4: sc4 Little Finger which continues to arm and hand making: R1: __ sc4 in magic ring 4) R2-R3: sé — continue making hand Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 6R4: add one of two fingers and single crochet 2 stitches on it = bring next finger and work all 4 stitches over it — continue stitching through the opposite side of hand (look at the photo) = sc2 over middle finger, sc4 over litle finger (12) RS: sc12 R6: _sc3, add thumb and single crochet through both, thumb and working piece through 2 following stitches, sc7 (12) Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 7R7: _ sc3, sc3 (over thumb only), sc7 (43) R8: sctt, dec (12) RO: sci2 R10: (dec, sc2) x3 9) you Pac oan te enon decent need) isteten rer firmly. Add enough stuffing so it doesn't stay flat. RI1-R25:sc9 FO leaving long end for sewing arm to the body later. Stuff lightly with stuffing or add wire, fuzzy wire or pipe cleaner inside to make them bendable. ‘Sew arms on the sides of the body, in between rounds 2. and 3.. Maya's Hair The fun part! Hai Itwill take some time to make it, but Maya is completely worth this extra trouble. Hair cap R14: sc8 in magic ring 2: sc4, cht, turn continue working in rows R3: ined (8) Ra: (inc, sc) x4 (12) RS: (inc, sc2) x4 (16) R6: (inc, sc3) x4 (20) RT: (ine, se4) x4 (24) : (ine, sc5) x4 (28) $028 R15: dec, sc24, dec (28) R16: dec, sc22, dec (24) R17: dec, sc20, dec (22) Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 aR18: dec, sc18, dec (20) R19: dec, sc16, dec (18) R20: dec, sc14, dec (16) R21: skip 1* st, *4sc in the next one, skip one st, sl st to next, skip one st" repeat 4 times ‘Once you finish the hair cap, pin it on the head. Now you can start making hair pieces. Make ‘one row at the time and follow photos which will guide you where and how to place them. ‘Once ail hairs of each round are made and pinned you can start sewing them on. At the end when hair cap (or wig) is completely done, you can glue it on Maya's head. Top hairs (3 of them) R1: sed in magic ring RT: (dec, sc2) x2 (6) RB: sc6 R9: (dec, sc) x2 (4) Even though these little hairs make the top of the head. ‘We will add them on the last. This is just because it will be easier to follow the ring (round) on where to place ‘our first round of hairs. Now that you have them done, place them aside until We finish placing all other hairs on the wig. Fi f hail Smallest fringe: R1: so4 in magic ring R2: ined (8) R3-R6: sc8 RT: (dec, 82) x2 (6) RB: sc6 R@: (dec, sc) x2 (4) Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 °R10: se4 First round of the hair (continued from smallest fringe to each side) Itis made of two size pieces sewed on sequentially, small, big... a When arranging your first round of hairs, let the front ‘ring’ of single crochets guide you. Align the hairs to same round all over the hair cap. Small hairs (x6) Big hairs (x5): R1: sc5 in magic ring Rt: sc5 in magic ring R2: ined (10) R2: inc5 (10) R3-R7: sci0 R3-R4: sc10 RB: (dec, sc3) x2 (8) R5: (inc, sc) x5 (15) R9-R10: sc R6-R8: sc15 R11: decd (4) R9: (dec, sc) x5 (10) R12: se4 R10-R11: sc10 R12: (dec, sc2) x2 (8) R13: sc8 R14: decd (4) R15: so4 Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 10First round finished! All hairs sewed. Second row of hairs: Longer ones -placed under small ones Shorter ones -placed under bigger ones attached on row1 attached on row1 (x4) (x3) R1: sc5 in magic ring R1: sc5 in magic ring R2: ined (10) R2: ined (10) R3-R4: sct0 R3-R4: sct0 RS: (inc, sc) x5 (15) R5: (inc, sc) x5 (15) RG-R11: sc RG-R11: sc15 R10: (dec, sc) x5 (10) R10: (dec, sc) x5 (10) RI-R17: sc10 RI1-R14: sct0 Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 "Third hair row: placed under and between 2” row hairs Long hairs (x4) Short ones (x2) Rt: sc5 in magic ring Rt: sc5 in magic ring R2: ined (10) R2: ind (10) R3-R4: sct0 R3-R7: sct0 RS: (inc, sc) x5 (15) RB: (dec, sc3) x2 (8) R6-R8: sc15 R9-R10: sc8 R9: (dec, sc) x5 (10) R11: decd (4) RIO-R11: sc10 R12: sc4 R12: (dec, sc2) x2 (8) R13: sc8. R14: decd (4) R15: sc4, i ) Now that you have all hairs done and sewed, you can add little three top hairs on. Now you can glue your hair cap on the head. Apply glue at the inner cap side, place hair on the head, pin it around and let dry. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 2Antennas While waiting for hair to dry (and until not dried yet) is time when to add antennas on. Ihave forgotten to take photos of this part, where | placed antennas on Mayas or Willy's heads, but will show you on my model head how it is done. Important is that glue hasn't dried yet. In that case it will be impossible to push the needle through the head and pull the fuzzy Wire through. Here is what you'll need for antennas and how to prepare them: Glue, scissors, beads, long and sharp needle, fuzzy wire (haven't had black fuzzy wire when making my Mayas and Willies, so instead | worked with white, and painted them black after mounted on head). On photo below you can see how both, black and white look like. Whatever color you have or can get, as long as if you have black paint, will work well Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 13Cut fuzzy wire 7” long (17,5-18 cm). Itis too fuzzy for antennas so trim hairs short. Attach the wire to a needie eye and pull it through the head (right after round 4 on each of the heads Maya's or Willy's), from one side to the other. ‘Once you're out with the wire, take it off the needle, arrange both sides to be ‘equal length and bend upwards. Add drop ‘of glue on top of each antenna and mount the bead on. Let glue dry completely. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 “Back to Maya's hair. Once the wig dries, apply litle bit of glue beneath the hairs roots and pin. This way the hair will keep nice shape and will look very nice. Ifyou like the way Maya's hair is looking you can keep as it is. Many times how the hair will stay and look will depend on the yarn used. As | worked with cotton, it ended with hair pieces very stiff and firm, so | had to tame the hair alittle. If your hair ends wild, use little bit of glue beneath each hair and tame it a litte. Willy's Hair Front R1: sc4 in magic ring R2: (ine sc) x2 (6) R3-Rd: sc6 R5: (dec, sc) x2 (4) RO-R7: 4 fasten off, hide ends Middle R1: sod in magic ring R2: (inc, sc) x2 (6) R3: (inc, sc2) x2 (8) R4-RS: sc8 R6: (dec, sc2) x2 (6) R7-RB: sc6 R9: (dec, sc) x2 (4) trom et rg: nn mide, Sk ar Fasten off, hide ends. Back R1: sed in magic ring R2: (inc sc) x2 (6) RB-R5: sc6 R6: (dec, sc) x2 (4) R7-R8: 4 Fasten off leaving long end for sewing hairs together and on the head. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 6Wings (x2) Rt: R2; R3: Ra: R5-R9: sc18 R10: R11: R12: R13: R14: R15: R16: R17: R18: R19: R20: R21: R22: Faster sc6 in magic ring (6) ines (12) sc12 (inc, sc) x6 (18) dec, sc16 (17) sct7 dec, sc15 (16) sci6 dec, sc14 (15) sc15 dec, sc13 (14) sci4 dec, s¢12 (13) sci3 dec, sct1 (12) sc12 (dec, se4) x2 (10) n off leaving long end for sewing wing later. Below photo shows you how to sew the wings on the body. You can sew them close or attached to each other, but | prefer to leave sew them with lower part little bit off the center, while attaching first stitch on both wings together and close. Hope the photo helps you understand how I do it. | also tried to mark the lines, where and how | sew each wing. The horizontal lines you can see drawn on yellow stripe of the body, where wings will be attached are the lines where each wing will be sewed. It looks little awkward or off the line, but this is only because the body is crocheted in spiral. Once the wings will be on, it will look ok. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 16Eyes The part that most of you will be frighten to try! Get your paints and brushes, take a deep breath and do it! You can do it! Thave tried to simplify and make it applicable and doable to everyone. To paint the eyes, as mention on the beginning of this pattern you will need textile paints and at least two fine brushes. | worked with 1 and 2/0 but whichever round. No.1 | used for filing in larger areas (such as eye's white, or the base of each eye), while the very thin and fine brush 2/0 | used for tiny spaces, adding dots, lines... (on my doll's eyes with this brush leven worked the iris and pupil as well, as they were very small in size), What | have done to make it easier for you, as well as to make it possible you create eyes identical to ones | painted on my dolls, is, | made a stencil for you I draw one eye, and then on PC mirror copied the second one. ‘What you have to do is simply copy each of these two images to matching size (size that proportionally fits your doll's head and copy the outlines on your doll). ‘Yes, easy as this. On my second two dolls, | have worked exactly what you'll need to do in order to create eyes you can see on my finished dolls. Here is what your stencil looks like: Maya's Eyes Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi 2013-2015 wvWilly's Eyes What will you need before starting to paint the eyes? ~ Textile paints in — white, = green and — black | suggest to buy any of hobby paints that come in little 15m! bottles, and are created to be applied on textiles. This way they will stay permanently on, even after washing your dolls in washing machines (they can be machine washed to up to 60 degrees Celsius). haven't tried acrylic paints, but | believe they will work well (not sure how they might react if washed, check about it on label or at your local store). You can use textile paints in tubes or pencil like, but in this case, squeeze some paint on little saucer or piece or piece of paper and Use it with brush (instead of applying them from tube). —_ brushes (fine, round) -size 1 — size 2/0 or similar — carbon copy paper in black color (your craft shop might have golden, white... but for this doll you'll need black) — if your smaller brush will not be fine enough to make outlines on top of the eyes, get yourself super fine black pen or marker (check to see how both react on your yarn. You don't want to use anything your yarn would suck in time and instead of line, ended up creating black smudge). = Pins (for pinning your stencil and carbon copy on the head) = pen or pencil (for drawing and coping the outlines) = scotch tape for bringing together stencil eyes and carbon copy Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi 2013-2015 18Ready to start? Matching the right eye size. Making copy. Print the stencils provided in this pattern and copy them to a matching size. Your eyes should not exceed the size of: — 6 rounds for Maya and = 7 rounds for Willy This is the only thing you'll have to pay attention to, and measure the size. Measure the Tounds height, copy and fit eyes matching this size. Preparing carbon copy and eyes to be applied on the head. Cut copied eyes to fitting head size. Size that you find easy to pin on the head and work with Get your carbon copy and cut the size that will match your paper eyes. © Rn = With scotch tape, on top middle, with tiny piece of tape, glue both pieces of paper together. Carbon copy facing out (or the back of your eye copy). oe VO Now we are ready to copy our eyes on doll's head. Where to pin the eyes!? ‘As you can see, from the paper eyes I've cut the triangle. This opening will help me center eyes on the head. Triangle will place on top of the nose. Lower eye line has to fall right on R17 of Maya's head, or Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi 2013-2015 10R20 of Willy's head (or the round where we increased the head a litle in front and added nose). In case you find difficulties to match the eye line with the round, try cutting the paper litle bit more (or fold it up, observe....important is; do not rush! Painting eyes is not something you can do in halt hour, it will take few hours if not one whole day to finish them so take your time. Go slow and double check twice before proceeding). Now that eyes are placed to right spot, we can start coping them. With pencil or pen, draw and copy the outline of both eyes. That will create our base, whole eye we will paint in white later. Copied outline will not be very dark and very visible (it looks better on this photo but in real was very light), but will be visible enough for you to work with and color it. Keep the stencil eyes by hand at all time so you can check your work. Ready to paint! Get your white paint ready, and brush size 4 or similar and paint in white entire eye area inside the outline you just made. Take your time to paint space between stitches. Turn your doll up side down, sideways, observe eyes from all sides to make sure you painted this area completely and right. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB88 2013-2015, 2»‘As you finish applying white color on, set you doll aside and let paint dry completely. Only when completely dry we can continue with next step "aa Yo Adding green color. ‘When your base or white color has dried completely, we can start applying green. In order to make it, we have to make contour of middle eye part first. Prepare your carbon copy. Cut it short(er) following the lower eye line. Look at the photo to guide you. This way it will be easier to match each eye's carbon copy on already making eyes on the head. ‘Once cut and prepared, you can pin the carbon copy on the painted eyes and draw the outline of the middle eye part. Once you created new outline for this middle part, you can start painting it again. Prepare you green paint, brush that you find fine enough for coloring this part and paint inside the outline in green. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi8 2013-2015 aLet green color dry completely. Once dried, you have to use carbon copy one more time. This time coping only middle black part. Thaven't made the photos for that part. Somehow I forgot. Worked Maya and Willy at the same time and in between both photo shoots, forgotten to take this pupil coping and applying part. Procedure is the same! Same as we did with white eye part, and green eye part, you can do with pupil part too. Pin the carbon copy, copy the outline on where black part of each eye will be. Take the carbon copy off, get the black paint and fine brush and color in black inside the outlined area. Let it dry completely before doing anything else. Before | show you how eyes are finished, let me share few photos on how Willy's eyes are done. Procedure is the same as with Maya. Size | of 7 rounds | have already mentioned above. Thought photos will help some of you get the better picture and help some in this whole process of painting. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 2Painting Willy’s Eyes Pay attention on eye size, placement... On Willy's head you'll have to paint eyebrows too! Don't forget about them! ‘Adding black color to eyes and finishing all up. Like previously mentioned, after green has dried, the last color we need to add is black. Take your carbon copy eyes, pin them, outline them on painted yes, and with fine brush color inside the outlined area. For those of you, who haven't found black fuzzy wire, use black color to paint antennas now. Lucky ones that have black antennas by now, have a nice cup of tee, coffee or refreshment drink :) Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi8 2013-2015 2‘After black has dried, take your white paint, fine brush and look at the original copy of your eyes. Observe where white dots or sparks are to be placed Dip brush into the paint and carefully apply sparks on each eye Ifyou noticed, Maya has tiny litle white lines added on the bottom of each eye iris. Ifyour brush is not fine enough, you can skip this part. The eye will look great without this line as well Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi8 2013-2015 m4When eyes have dried completely, you can take black super fine pen or marker (don't forget, to check how each work on your yarn before applying them on the head), and draw little by little outline on top of eyes on each of your doll's. Willy will need eyebrows touch up with pen or marker too. And voila, your Maya and Willy's eyes are done! Itfeels great seeing them almost done, isn't it!? : To finish the head we have to add mouth. In this pattem | wish to show you how I like to add mouth on my dolls. For this you will need, — black yarn in black (use same weight as one used for making your Maya. If not having same, go for lighter black, but in any case do not use heavier weight yam for mouth). - Sharp pointing needle, long enough to go from cheek to cheek. — Clear glue for textile. = Tooth pick. - 3pins Thread the needle with black yarn, prepare our doll. Place pins: 1. three rounds below, stitch aligned with the left eye side line 2. three rounds below, stitch aligned with the right eye side line 3. five rounds below and aligned with nose Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 5Starting from either side (which will depend if right or left handed), push the needle from one side pin to the next. i Take the needle out, but leave a tail hanging on where you started. Look at the photo. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi8 2013-2015 2Go below your bottom pin, and repeat needle waving one more time (from starting stitch one side to the next stitch opposite side). Take the needle off the yarn. Now cut both hanging ends (yarn tails) to about 1 cm long (%") Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi8 2013-2015 aPrepare clear glue for textile i Apply drop of glue on each of the stitches where your yam is sticking out, as well as add some undemeath the yarn that is creating your mouth. Look at the photo; the glue is stil fresh and visible and you can see it all the way under the mouth as well as on the ending stitches. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi8 2013-2015 2Now take the tooth pick and stick the ends inside the head, through the stitches where they point out. While pushing the yearn inside the head, you will use the glue applied and this way secure the ends to stay nice and firm. Once both ends are secured, using same tooth pick, draw the line and underneath the mouth. This drawing the line is using and applying glue nicely. Take off any access glue. While your yam is covered in glue and wet, arrange the mouth line in nice round way (it might move while you draw with toothpick or while adding glue earlier, and now it's time to fix it to final, nice looking smile), Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi8 2013-2015When all arranged and set, take the bottom pin, gently out. As final touch carefully, with your fingertips, press the yarn onto the head for better and firmer adding it to the head. Let the glue dry completely 696 Here are few photos on how mouth are added on Willy. Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, Amigurumi8 2013-2015 0Maya and Willy are done!! Hope you've enjoyed making them! For any questions you might have, please feel free to contact me by mail on: amigurumibb@gmail.co To follow my work and be informed on the news: www.amigurumibb.com Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiB8 2013-2015 a