arm Veal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian theguardian Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's veal recipes The plight of continental veal calves is enough to turn anyone's stomach, but not all veal is raised inhumanely. Buy British rose veal and you can enjoy this splendid meat with a clear conscience ‘Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall| The Guardian, Friday 20 ugh Rearsley-Whittingstalls slow-cooked veal shoulder: A great, easy Sunday Tanch. Photograph Colin Campbell forthe Guardian Few things raise the hackles of thoughtful eaters quite like veal — unless it's veal with a side order of foie gras. Bleak images of calves in cramped crates or being herded on to lorries linger in the memory. And they should ~ as a reminder of the worst excesses of, indifference to animal welfare, they take some beating, But today I'mn unashamedly putting on my rose-tinted spectacles and flying the flag for British rose veal. To be honest, if you drink milk or eat cheese, it's crueller not to eat it. Spare a thought for male dairy calves. Over a quarter of a million of them are killed each ‘year. Unable to produce milk (obviously) and unsuitable for beef production, they are shot soon after birth as a "waste product” of the dairy industry. Either that or they're exported to Europe, where the continental craving for pale meat means their welfare is profoundly compromised, In the past few years, there's been a growing interest in high-welfare rose veal in this, country, and I for one am glad of it. Calves live in small groups, with deep straw bedding and access to a varied diet that leads to their distinctive pink meat; in free-range or organic production, they're also given access to outdoor grazing, The animals are killed at around six months old, roughly the same age as most pigs or sheep slaughtered for pork and lamb. www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2iveal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH wnarm Veal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian ‘Veal's most well-known outing is probably in the form of the classic Italian dish osso buco. The tender, slow-cooked meat and marrow of the shin are often enlivened with gremolata, that perky combination of garlic, fresh herbs and lemon zest that brings out the flavour and cuts through the richness of the meat. In fact, this combination is a great addition to many veal dishes, from today’s kebabs to veal burgers or meatballs (mixed in some minced pork to keep them succulent). Veal marries well with piquant flavours and rich, buttery, ereamy sauces. It's very good in slowly simmered stews, and I also like it quickly cooked in the form of escalopes lightly dusted in seasoned flour and speedily fried. If I'm feeling extravagant, Il ay some slices of prosciutto and sage leaves over the escalopes, attach them with cocktail sticks and fry, before deglazing the pan with marsala or white wine for a tasty saltimbocea, ‘So when you buy veal or order it in a restaurant, make sure it's British rose veal, Ask for it at the butcher's or farmers’ market, look for it in Marks & Spencer and Waitrose, who stock it in some larger stores, or try Bocaddon Farm, which produces welfare-friendly veal in Cornwall, or Drumachloy Farm on the Isle of Bute; both offer a mail-order service to most parts of the country. Slow-cooked veal shoulder Based on a Marcella Hazan recipe for the classic Italian way of cooking a rolled shoulder, this makes a great, easy Sunday lunch with potatoes and wilted greens. Serves six. 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 sprig rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped Zest of 1 lemon Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1.2kg boned shoulder of rose veal 1 knob butter 2 tbsp olive oil 24oml white wine 12 small shallots, unpeeled soml double cream 1 handful parsley leaves, chopped Ina bowl, mix the garlic, rosemary and lemon zest, and season. Unroll the shoulder (if rolled) and spread the inside with the herby mixture. Roll it back up, tie with kitchen string in three places and season. Ina heavy-bottomed casserole, melt the butter and olive oil over a medium-high heat and brown the meat on all sides. Remove the veal and deglaze the pan with the wine, seraping up any brown bits, then add about 150ml water. Return the meat to the pan, placing the shallots around it. Turn down the heat so the wine is barely simmering and cook very gently, partially covered, for an hour and a half to two hours, turning from time to time, until the meat feels very tender when prodded with a fork. Keep an eye on it and add a splash of water ifit begins to look dry. Lift out the meat and shallots. Squeeze the shallots out of their skins, chop roughly and return to the pot. Bring to a simmer and reduce to thicken. Add the cream, season and simmer for a minute or two, Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Serve the www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2iveal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH antarm Veal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian ‘veal cut into thick slices with sauce spooned over the top, Veal chops with lemon and capers ‘This makes an easy, tasty lunch served with a crisp, green salad and some crusty bread to mop up the juices. Serves four. 4 thsp olive oil Juice and finely grated zest of 1 lemon 2 tbsp finely chopped thyme leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 rose veal chops 6 unpeeled garlic cloves, bashed 2 bay leaves 150ml white wine 12 tbsp capers, rinsed 3 tbsp double cream or créme fraiche Iman ovenproof dish large enough to hold all the chops in a single layer, whisk together three tablespoons of olive oil, the lemon zest, half the lemon juice, the thyme and a few ssrinds of black pepper. Add the chops, garlic and bay, and turn over in the marinade. Cover and leave to marinate for a couple of hours. Heat the oven to 220C/425¥'/gas mark 7. Lift the chops from the dish (reserve the marinade), pat dry on kitchen paper and warm the remaining oil in a frying pan over ‘a medium-high heat. Season the chops and fry on both sides for a minute or two, until browned, then place them back in the marinade dish. Deglaze the pan with the wine, scraping up any browned bits, and pour the wine from the pan and the remaining lemon Juice into the oven dish. Give everything a stir and cook, uncovered, in the oven fo minutes, basting halfway through. Place the chops on a warm plate. Put the oven dish on the hob (ifit's not suitable for the stove top, tip the juices into a small pan) over medium-low heat, stir in the eapers and cream, adjust the seasoning and simmer gently for a minute or two. Spoon sauce over ‘the chops and serve Veal kebabs Veal is great on the barbecue, especially when tenderised for a few hours beforehand in a yoghurt marinade. Serves six to eight. For the kebabs akg rose veal topside, trimmed of sinew and chopped into roughly gem cubes 50m olive oil (plus a little more for brushing the potatoes) som rapeseed oil 6 tbsp whole-milk yoghurt 4 tbsp finely chopped mint 2 tbsp finely chopped oregano 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley 2 fat garlic cloves, minced www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2iveal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH smarm Veal recipes | Hugh Feamiey-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian Finely grated zest of 1 small orange Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Juice of ¥2 lemon Vatsp freshly ground black pepper About 400g new potatoes Salt A handful of bay leaves (optional) For the dressing 1 handful oregano leaves, finely chopped 1 small bunch chives, finely chopped About 1 tbsp finely chopped thyme leaves Juice and finely grated zest of 1 lemon Olive or rapeseed oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper ‘To make the marinade, whisk together the oils and yoghurt, then stir in the herbs, garlic, ‘orange and lemon zest, lemon juice and pepper. Add the meat and marinate for four to six hours. While the meat marinates, soak six to eight wooden skewers in cold water (this stops ‘them burning on the barbecue). Boil the potatoes in plenty of salted water until just tender, drain and set aside. Next, make the dressing. Combine the herbs and lemon zest ina bowl, Measure the lemon juice, then add it, too, Add three times as much oil as you have lemon juice, and season well with salt and pepper. ‘Thread the marinated meat on to the skewers, alternating a piece of meat with a new potato and a bay leaf, if you are using them. Brush the potatoes with oil, then lay the skewers on a hot barbecue (or very hot ridged griddle pan) and cook, turning regularly and seasoning from time to time with a pinch of sat, for six to eight minutes, or until cooked through. Trickle a little of the herb dressing over the kebabs. Sprinkle with sumac, if you like, and serve with flatbreads or pittas, a green salad, lemon wedges and the remaining dressing in a small jug. + Learn new skills on River Cottage’s four-day cookery courses; go to rivercottage.net for full details Ads by Google Facts About Pink Slime Learn What Scientists And Consumer Advocates Say About Pink Slime www BeeflsBeef.com Recipes For Diabeties Find 1000s of Delicious Diabetic Recipes! Keep Your Sugar Low. ChewOnlt.com ‘Local Coupons Discounts of 50%-90%. High-Five Your Wallet to Remind It You Care. eww.Groupon.com Comments 24 comments, displaying Otest [=] first Bistait www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2iveal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH antarm Veal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian (© Contributor pogmotoin Recommend (3) 21 May 2011 12:50AM Responses (0) Hugh you really are a cool guy (dude) but I really want toeata__-Repart baby cow. Help me with a blood curling recipe. cio] Link noodlesticks Recommend (1) 21 May 2011 7:59AM Responses (0) Veal, properly farmed as you say, isa very versatile meat. My Report favourite is ossi bucci, but a nice simple dish, Etuvée de veau, is cip| Link from the Chamberlains' 1950s book, The Flavour of France (and can be adapted for pork as well, if you have ethical problems). It is simple stew with red wine. Lovely. ‘Sparebulb Recommend (2) 21 May 2011 9:14AM Responses (0) 1 don't have a problem with veal (British) on ethical grounds,1 ‘Report just don’t think it’s all that special and so won't pay the premium, —cio| Link For me it's like such things as frog legs or snails that carry a premium despite there being acceptable substitutes at a better price ‘gentlemancook ‘Recommend (10) 21 May 2011 10:33AM ¥ 3H Responses (0) 1 couldn't agree more with HFW, not only is it acceptable to eat ‘Report. veal, but we really should be doing more oft, as I argued ina cip| Link ‘post on my blog a while back that's so close in i's argument I ‘wonder if he's not been cribbing. On the other hand, Sparebulb also has a point - I've often come ‘cross veal that's bland to the point of pointlessness, but generally, the pinker it is the more flavoursome, as well as more ethical ‘You could try flank or skirt, seared and served rare and sliced as a deliciously delicate and tender alternative to a regular beef steak Or a single rib, pan seared then briefly roasted, makes a perfect ‘ight’ Sunday roast for two ‘And in both cases, because flank & skirt are cheap cuts, and because with the rib you simply have less than a regular joint, veal is not a pricey option. ww guardian co ukfeandstye/2011/mayl2veal-ecipes-hugh sitVeal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian sparclear Recommend (15) 21 May 2011 1:02PM Responses (0) Eat less meat altogether, full stop. Report iio| Link Raising cattle for whatever purpose is greedy on land use, seven times as many people can dine from land that's used to grow vegetarian foods, Cattle farmers are currently campaigning to kill badgers rather than changing to outdoor rearing for most of the year. Cramping. the quick-fat breeds into airless barns all winter, releasing them, onto monoculture pasture in summer, and shunting them all around the country weakened herds toTB, not the 10% or so of all kinds of wildlife carrying & developing its own immunity long term, Vets know this and yet are not raising their voices to promote sound welfare in the ‘industry’. Furthermore the pressure on rainforest to convert to providing. palm oil and soya beans almost entirely for animal food links directly to devastating, possibly irreversible climate change. Even organic and SA certified animal foods aren't squeaky-clean as to their provenance. Also the GM movement has its fingers ‘well into that tacky pie. Hugh, you know this, so get cracking old chap, harmless beef is an oxymoron, Toadjuggler Recommend (3) 21 May 2011 5:38PM Responses (0) I believe that anyone who drinks milk has a moral duty to eat Report veal. I would like to be able to buy it at a reasonable price, it cio] Link shouldn't be a luxury product: it certainly never used to be, ‘SamM84 Recommend (0) 2 2011 5:58PM 21 May 2011 5:58PM Responses (0) Sorry gentlemancook but Hugh made that argument on one his Report programmes quite a long time ago! in| Link 1 don't like veal enough to pay the premium I'm afraid, T do when 'm in Italy though. (Which is bad of me I know) [Emmazsi082 Recommend (3) May 2011 6:13PM Responses (0) For those who are saying that eating veal involves paying a Report premium it might be worth trying your local waitrose ifyou've ojp| Link got one. Mine finds it so difficult to shift veal that the stuff is www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2iveal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH entarm Veal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian usually reduced to way below the alternatives NatashaGSkinner Recommend (1) 21 May 2011 6:15PM Responses (0) T was never brought up eating veal it was considered cruel, and Report ‘when T was in my early twenties was horrified when a posh older cip| Link friend of mine ordered it in a restaurant! Now I have recently tried the British Rose veal and find it very tasty - not as tasty as beef for sure, but a tasty alternative to chicken for sure. [live in Shropshire and have been seeing more of this at farmers markets and in butchers, it seems to be reasonably affordable (certainly when compared to free-range chicken). I willbe eating ‘more of t this summer! kizbot Recommend (1) May 2011 6:17?M Responses (0) What's the alternatives to snails? Report cin Link suntlemanceck Recommend 21 May 2011 8:16PM Responses (0) @ SamMs4 Report I was joking, I didn't really think he'd been cribbing. It's just that °°! Links ‘we're coming from the same place on this, as many other meat related issues, and indeed I regularly reference HFW as a source con my blog - in fact I'm rather surprised to see that I hadn't done so even in passing on the Veal post. @ Sparclear ‘Tobe fair to HFW he is a regular advocate of eating less meat; indeed one of the key points of the whole nose-to- tail movement, of which he's a leading proponent, is to make more use of fewer slaughtered animals, by making good use of those bits that so many modern meat eaters disdain, More fool them, because they're missing the best bits ‘And my experience tallies with Emma261082's - I often find reduced to clear bargains on veal on the Waitrose meat counter - along with their bargain bags of yummy pigs checks. junRanked Recommend (1) 21 May PM + May 2011 9:33) Responses (0) there is no need to make a hue and ery over this... Report iio] Link www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2iveal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH mtarm arkadydarrel 21 May 2011 10:05PM @ Sparclear, In the case of veal surely you mean we should be drinking less milk? Lé tobe produced by the dairy industry. At least the dairy industry now has the option of sex-weighted sperm though, so fewer male calves are produced in the first place. ss milk production = fewer calves needing 1'm glad for the tips on where to buy it, I've never found it on sale in this country personally (I only go to M&S and Waitrose for cecasional luxury items and don't normally bother checking the ‘meat sections, plus the Waitrose is a tiny city-centre one). My ‘meat consumption is low however (flavouring rather than the main attraction, and cheap cuts), so still may not buy it any time soon. Veal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian Recommend (0) Responses (0) Report iio| Link Recommend (14) May 2011 11:22PM Hugh, I was going to write that you're such a eruel meat eating carnivore, but you already know that. You eat far too much meat. I suggest you start eating more ‘vegetables, it might do you some good. panpies Responses (0) Report cip| Link ‘Recommend (2) 22 May 2011 12:05AM as my butcher says, the problem with rose veal is that it's not veal, it's just immature beef. And if you're going to have beef you ‘may as well have something tasty. For wiener schnitzel, on the other hand, ifit's not proper veal, rather have pork or chicken before the rose variety (result: minute steak in breaderumbs) Responses (0) Report col Link Recommend (1) Vittelo Tonnato is worth a mention, classic Italian filet of veal with tuna sauce. thierrytts Responses (0) Report cip| Link Recommend (5) 22 May 2011 7:29PM Britain has lost contact with the reality of food production. used to be common as did horse meat, Animals who served no purpose.When the Vestey family took over nearly the whole of british butchery all the traditions were destroyed. Butchers no longer had a whole carcasse but parts ‘The people who ran " www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2veal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH Responses (0) Report cpl Link antanne Veal recipes | Hugh Feamiey-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian ‘Vesteys shops were just sales people and not butchers Young beef, young pigs ete were sent for making cheap food.. Mutton disappeared . The high street outside London still follows the Vestey pattern. Centrally butchered .The Vesteys have a lot to answer for. Sparebulb Recommend (6) 22 May 2011 9:55PM Responses (0) ‘What's the alternatives to snails? Report col Link Button mushrooms, they are interchangeable with snails in recipes- frog's legs is chicken wings. Ifyou filter out snobbery then you'll know that, as indeed do the vast majority of consumers as that’s what they buy in preference to snails and frog legs- if it was different then supermarkets would be on to it, ‘The same with veal, I won't pay a premium for what is a by- product of the dairy industry- I'll happily eat it but won’t pay a premium. [fit was priced against good quality British pork then Pd consider it as a substitute, Tbase my purchasing philosophy on common sense- if something is a'‘premium produet’ then it actually has to be a premium product, not just premium because of the way the market attempts to price it cityroadcook ‘Recommend (1) 22 May 2011 10:54PM ¥ SA Responses (0) ‘Try veal esealope. You only need a small amount as itis fattened Report ut, so it works out to be good value. I cook it briefly in Marsala cip| Link ‘wine which I then reduce and add butter and thyme to make a sauce, simple, quick and delicious. maffphew Recommend (0) }23 May 2011 6:17AM Responses (0) @ sparclear Report col Link how self righteous of you. wayzegoose Recommend (0) 23 May 2011 8:46AM 3 May a Responses (0) ‘The same is also true of kid, for anyone who eats goats milk or Report cheese.. cpl Link www guardian.coukfeandstylo/20"/may/2vealecipes-high-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP-SRCH antarm Veal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian SandraQs Recommend 23 May 2011 5:31PM 2) Responses (0) "Rose veal" is certainly not “humane”, Calves killed to make rose Report veal still suffer terrifying and premature deaths at slaughter, ip] Link, where they may be hung upside down and have their throats slit, often while they're still conscious. Their mothers also suffer when their calves are taken from them, often within 48 hours of birth, {tis not uncommon for cows to call and search frantically for their calves for days or even months after they have been taken away and sold to veal farms, There is nothing humane about putting these thinking, feeling animals through all this distress just fora taste of veal Recommend (0) Responses (0) @SandraQS - I totally agree with you. A poor helpless animal ‘Report cruelly ripped away from its mum, petrified and screaming and Gip| Link then barbarically slaughtered, all for 30 minutes taste on one's palate. How about some nice cruelty free recipies Hugh? sgentlemancook Recommend (2) 23 May 2011 7:29PM sme " Responses (0) @ Sandra & Soraya Report But that will happen anyway, whether any of us eat veal or not - “io! Linlk on this issue your beef (sorry!) should be with the dairy industry, not veal eaters. ‘The point about rose veal is the difference in the treatment afforded the calves between being removed from their mothers (which, I stress again, will happen anyway - that's how we get milk - so it's not just for the taste of veal) and being slaughtered for their meat (no earlier in their lives than lambs or pigs routinely are for theirs) Unlike some meat eaters I totally respect vegetarians for their choice not to eat meat, but if your objection to veal is an animal welfare issue, you really need to be vegan, not just vegetarian (which, of course, S&S, you may well be...) T've written about this in greater depth on my blog Comments on this page are now closed. © 2018 Guardian News and Media Limited of itsafliated companies llrightsreserved, www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2veal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH sonarm Veal recipes | Hugh Fearley-Whitingstall| Life and style |The Guardian www guardian.co.ukfeandstylo120"1/may/2iveal-ecipes-hugh-fearlay-whitingstalINTCMP=SRCH at