Literature Review

Introduction

Fashion is a highly subjective and diverse field, a medium to express intense creativity and
individuality, yet the question whether it is effective or eloquent in conveying a specific expression
still stands. Some may argue that because fashion is strongly subjective, it can identify with an
individual on a direct and personal level due to niche preferences that range in modern-day global
culture. As it is a qualitative medium, some may argue that there is no solid evidence that fashion
can convey any form of distinct character that can be strongly identified by a recognisable group of
people. Members of society may claim that characteristic traits based off a fashion sense is a result
of stereotyping that has been vehemently inculcated into the minds of people over a long period of
time. This discussion thoroughly explores all aspects of fashions ability to communicate ones
personal individuality from the history of haute-couture, emphasising on the abstract art aspect of
fashion, to fashion politics that offer the significance of projecting a persuasive message.

History of Ready-To-Wear

When learning about the history of a particular element within the field of fashion, it is paramount
to understand the foundation that accommodates further broad development. Beginning with a
range of definitions for ready-to-wear, Darla Watsons A History of Ready-To-Wear Clothing1
article is informative and thorough. Watson extracts examples from both the American Heritage
Dictionary and the Random House Word Menu, providing an opportunity for the researcher to
compare and discern the similarities, which will conclude with a personal acknowledgment of its
definition. The article continues to readily address its title and embraces the US Census, claiming
that there was a point where an agreed-upon standard had not yet been established causing dispute
among customer fittings. This shows the development in the process of production and manufacture
of ready-to-wear clothing, clearly formulating a sense of history and current affairs. As a result of
the increased accessibility of standard clothing, customers have been given a chance to develop and
refine their style in what they choose to buy to present themselves. The article imparts how art and
clothes would be more and more intertwined, indicating that individuality and expressionism

Watson, D. (2014) A History of Ready-to-Wear Clothing [Online.] Available at: http://www.styleflair.com/a-history-ofready-to-wear-clothing/ (Accessed: 6 February 2015)
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deriving from art will be conveyed within an individuals style. This therefore relates to the key
question, as it states that the element of choice provided within ready-to-wear clothing allows for
individuality and personal preferences to be easily displayed upon garments.

Art Expressionism In Fashion

Felicity Jones2 brief description of the element of expressionism, and its significant impact in the
fashion industry, includes well-referenced evidence as well as subtle and intense influences
portrayed in modern day fashion design. She appreciates the subtle qualities such as Edvard
Munchs (her artist reference) play with distortion, intense colour and broad undefined brush
strokes which, according to her, enhances the emotions of the artist. This meticulous dissection of
works from a critical artistic point of view is refreshing and, although biased, has a layer of
competent knowledge. She discusses how over time, fashions fascination with experimenting
expressionism was evident in the nature in which fabrics became more patterned and colourful. An
example that she uses is Vivienne Westwood, to solidify her argument of loud and wacky clothing
that came as a result of experimental expressionism. From Jones background as a student
sustaining her passion for the arts in studying Literature, a constructive and analytic approach has
been perceived with excellence. Its content provides an even balance between art, fashion and
events occurring in history that lead up to more recent and relevant events.

Unusual Elements of Haute Couture

One of the most poignant elements that are common in almost every haute couture fashion show is
the unusual and impractical array of garments. An argument can be made as to how on one hand, it
is an attempt to fully stretch out the horizon of character onto clothing, expressing maximum
creativity and transcending fashion into the concept of walking art. On the other hand, some people
answer saying that it is all for publicity, prestige and the overall feel of a designers collection,
3 followed

by images of bizarre clothing items strengthening the point. This juxtaposes the belief that

haute couture is a form of personal expression as it limits it to worldly materialism. The response

Jones, F. Catwalk Yourself. Expressionism [Online.] Available at: http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/

expressionism/ (Accessed: 27 February 2015)
2

Evans, J. Quora (2012) Why do fashion designers create weird clothes that they dont sell in shops? [Online.] Available
at: http://www.quora.com/Why-do-fashion-designers-create-weird-clothes-that-they-dont-sell-at-shops (Accessed: 13
February 2015)
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focuses on how brands endure the competitive nature of the industry by advertising such bold,
vivacious pieces to grab the attention of the public, rather than the emotive perspective of style. One
could argue that the article does in fact address a more artistic, and therefore personal, aspect of
haute couture designs, as it claims that runaway designs are a form of wearable art and that the
stress is on beauty and innovation, not functionality. Art, being a very expressive and personal
form of communication, undoubtedly adds individuality to the unusual haute couture pieces.

Fashion and Pop Culture

According to the Why Fashion Matters To You article by Cherie Harder4 , fashion exists partially to
define and shape popular culture. This statement is then supported by how she includes that the
Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded MTV, a network and broadcasting channel
targeted at teenagers and young adults, for its incredible influence based on fashion. The youth, who
embody the very essence of pop culture and thrive in its constant transformations, are described to
include fashion as an integral part of what they consider cool, attractive, stylish and entertaining.
The nature of fashion is adept to following trends that are charismatic and refreshing yet conceive
an air of limitation because of the new interests that constantly crop up in the advancement of
cultural and political ideology. With Harders understanding of the relationship between fashion
and pop culture, it is recognised that the youth possessing the very essence of following trends have
formulated their own identity as a distinguished age group.

Celebrities and Brand Image

According to Angela Carroll, celebrities are essential as a method to promote brands, especially
designer brands. She states that celebrities are viewed to be more powerful than anonymous
models as well as they verbalise the meaning5 of the celebrity in relation to the brand. This is
essentially because celebrities are figures that people admire and aspire to share qualities, such as
their talents and, more relevant to this topic, their sense of style. In addition, celebrities are
expected to display their characteristics and personal opinions through publicity acts such as
interviews both private and public. As a result, the public receive the notion that they too know the
4

Harder, C. QIdeas (2014) Why Fashion Matters To You [Online.] Available at: http://qideas.org/articles/why-fashionmatters-to-you/ (Accessed: 24 February 2015)
Carroll, A. (2008). Brand communications in fashion categories using celebrity endorsement. J Brand Manag, 17(2), pp.
146-158
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celebrity individual(s) personally, and come to acknowledge their style intimately with the use of
paparazzi images and the discussion of clothing on interviews. Furthermore, Carroll articulates how
brands, including designer brands, offer their consumers the freedom of self-expression, selfrealisation and self-identity with the use of the products they are marketing. This supports the key
question, indicating that a celebritys style is often scrutinised because of the high level of influence
that they pose on their fans. Their endorsements with clothing designers therefore advance the
potential for greater sales and for their consumers to express their style inspired by celebrities. The
journals abstract is insightful and, with Carrolls mastery of marketing communications, offers a
modern perspective of the relationship between celebrities and brand image.

[Fig 6] Foxes, Musician

H&M Campaign (2015)

Fashion and Politics

Coming from a fashion designer as well as a director and professor of Fashion Design for
Sustainability, Dilys Williams has described the connection between fashion and politics as
multidimensional as well as how people articulate [their] voices7 through the way they dress. This
article stresses the significance of politics in designing, however, it also includes the element of
being environmentally conscious, which is not relevant to the chosen research topic. The article
provides a few examples of how politics is especially influential within the industry. Despite this, it
H&M, (2015). H&M loves music presents Foxes. [online] Available at: http://www2.hm.com/en_cn/ladies/shop-byfeature/foxes.html [Accessed 15 Sep. 2015].
6

Williams, D. Centre for Sustainable Fashion (2014) Fashion and Politics [Online.] Available at: http://sustainablefashion.com/blog/fashion-and-politics-a-multidimensional-relationship/ (Accessed 24 February 2015)
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has no solid evidence to fully support the statement. Williams addresses all the current affairs that
relate to politics such as the objectification of women, the acceptance of gender identities and the
general concept of feminism. Like fashion, politics too fluctuate and strive for stability and peace
within the global community, so what is currently relevant may not be applicable to the future. This
allows one to greatly appreciate the nature of politics through fashion as it magnifies individuality
and innovative concepts, which can be highly associated with the key question.

[Fig 8 Vivienne Westwood S/S15 Anglomania]

Fashion Blogging

A new field within the industry born shy of a decade ago, fashion blogging has certainly been a
successful and influential method to record personal style. According to Ms. Holley, Editor in Chief
of Jane magazine, because fashion is rapidly changing, their readers find that blogs keep up better
than even the tabloids.9 This could suggest that what would spiral into the excitement that is
Vivienne Westwood, (2015). Anglomania SS15. [online] Available at: http://www.viviennewestwood.com/collections/
anglomania-campaign/spring-summer [Accessed 15 Sep. 2015].
8

La Ferla, R. The New York Times (2005) Online, Feisty Critics [Online.] Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/
2005/09/08/fashion/thursdaystyles/08BLOGS.html?_r=0
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fashion blogging a more updated, cheaper and accessible method of gaining ideas from peoples
experiences is easily exposed to anyone. From an era where news and opinion reaching great lengths
of distance ultimately depended on magazines and newspapers, the electronic realm attained a
magnitude so impressive that people used it to their creative advantage. A fraction of this particular
article also investigates a dispute between bloggers and high status celebrities who plan to make
their mark in the fashion industry. Despite this, the article mainly focuses on the booming blogger
community and how ignoring them may seem out of touch. For example, fashion bloggers have
used their internet platform to voice out their unmoderated, independent voices about their
opinion on fashion products. Exposing ones lifestyle and personal voice on the internet, however,
deems it susceptible to critique and satire yet for those who convey an ability to appreciate diversity,
inspiration comes swiftly from every website that is clicked upon. Internet platforms are also an
easier way to customise a page to fit the bloggers character, furthermore adding a sense of
personalisation.

How Fashion Blogging Enhances Personality

Tavi Gevinson, a blogger contributor to Style Feed,10 explains that recording online helped her
find her style, especially after describing her literature as a product of a train-of-thought. Many
other bloggers have expressed the same state of mind of immense appreciation for the flexible
ability to form a niche in a wide field simply for their own expression. Blogging also comes with
developing a relationship between blogger and followers, as the followers have the power to include
their own feedback in which the blogger can recognise and use to their advantage. For example,
Gevinson claims that when uploading onto her blog, she assume[s] that the reader knows [her],
indicating the intimacy and personal element of sustaining a blog. The internet, however, is a rich
source of inspiration, which people can cut and paste into their own blog and claim their own. This
inspiration can come from movies, music (videos), e-magazines and social networking sites, which
would be difficult and ineffective to include on hardware magazine and newspapers. Also, the
general book brings a whole new aspect of fashion into blogging; fashion photography. Being the art
of capturing momentous events, photography in fashion elevates and advertises style and brands in
a concise and eloquent manner. Examples of these are boldly incorporated in almost every single

10

Oliver, W. (2012) Style Feed The Worlds Top Fashion Blogs. Munich, London, New York: Prestel.

page and emphasises the unique qualities of each blogger, developing their ability to express their
own individual style.

Evaluation

This Literature Review consists of suitable and relevant resources that range in reliability. That,
however, has been assessed and considered when formulating ideas around its statements. The subheadings effectively outline and introduce the potential concepts that will be explored in the
discussion. All the sources vary in argument, from supporting the key question and posing an
argument against it. The Literature Review, however, could include additional information and
analysis of the sources to provide a wider foundation for my discussion later on in the project.

Discussion

Introduction

In this discussion, an in-depth analysis of the fashion industry will be articulated. It will place an
emphasis on the nature of fashion and how effective it truly is in conveying a style that relates to an
individuals personality. In metropolitan culture, people are struggling to connect and identify with
one another because of the stream-lined nature of human presentation. Fashion is a form of
producing a wearable garment that relates to the person donning it, however, whether it is effective
or not in doing so is susceptible to debate. Arguments supporting the concept that fashion is highly
eloquent in expressing a state of mind prove that the modern-day culture incorporates style when
communicating ones individuality. The methods include inspiration via celebrities, blogging,
stereotyping and additional media. Points arguing against the key question, claiming that fashion
does not suggest a particular characteristic or is a very limited form of expression include the
industrys tendency to follow trends, thereby eradicating any form of unique presentation, and how
contemporary blogs tend to follow each others format.

How Fashion Affects Everyone

Among other valid media that exhibit a poignant sense of individuality, fashion has proven to be the
most expressive and culturally relevant method. This can clearly be displayed by the numerous
examples of media plastered in public places such as malls, streets, magazine racks and television
shows, that incorporate eloquent fashion statements, as expressed by Harder in Why Fashion
Matters to You. As she lists the many sources of displayed fashion, she simultaneously highlights
the many aspects of our daily routine that the public are exposed to, which therefore influences
them subconsciously. The title itself addresses how fashion is relevant to everyone and not specific
individuals, therefore emphasising its significance and as a result of this, because everyone
incorporates fashion into their lifestyle, it is a form of expressing oneself. Harder additionally
reminds one that one does not need to be a designer or critic to perceive that fashion statements
intend to send a message. She emphasises the ease and prowess that fashion holds in achieving
such an influential essence, that is accessible to a range of intellects. In addition, her statement
suggests that because fashion is very subjective and is not limited to definitive interpretations, its

aesthetic quality allows for a mood or other statement to be easily communicated from one person
to the other.

Celebrities and Brand Image

As highly admired and publicised figures within society, celebrities are constantly under pressure to
appear and behave a certain way to claim their title within the industry. They strive to become
iconic and memorable, not simply by their performing talents but additionally by their clothing,
proving that fashion is an effective method to initiate a reputation of ones identity. Their style
statement strike their fans and often begin trends as a result of their strive to become more like
their idols. When people admire celebrities, it is usually because there are specific elements that
they possess that fans yearn for and thus simulate their possession by dressing similarly.

As a

result, designer brands pursue celebrity endorsements to advance their image and market their
products and are often in increased demand compared to anonymous models. Angela Carrolls
comparison between celebrities and models prove that people who are more admired for their
personality and characteristics are more influential than models whose sole purpose is to market
products with their physical appearance. This also supports the concept that fashion possesses a
dimension that differs from the two dimensional fascination with aesthetics and that expressing
ones uniqueness is equally as valued. In addition, branding is recognised as a medium that provides
an opportunity for self-expressionism, self-realisation and self identity, which does not necessarily
always apply to corporations as people with prestigious influence are entitled to their own brand.
The repetition of self emphasises how branding is heavily related to promoting oneself based on
their individual unparalleled qualities. Finally, the concept of fashion branding with celebrities as
examples prove that fashion is a highly effective and valued method of communication, especially
when marketing products and establishing reputation.

Fashion Bloggers and Communication

With a more modern perspective of the fashion industry, blogging has provided a range of beneficial
opportunities for many people working in it. From a collection of The Worlds Top Fashion Blogs, a
general impression is made indicating that blogging is one of the most effective ways of project a
message to a large group of people. For example, blogger Leandra Medine has stated that she

initially used her blogging platform to convey a mindset that she thought was paramount, the
mindset acknowledging that women should be consciously dressing for themselves and not for
men, hence her blog title Man Repeller. When uploading her blog content, she based the theme
upon the question would this repel men or not?, tagging a unique concept as her own to be
associated with her blog. This differentiated her from the usual bloggers who would simply paste
images of themselves flaunting expensive outfits. Medine created a persona that inspired women
to dress for themselves with her own individual style, therefore supporting the fact that fashion is
indeed a media that eloquently express a personality.

Following/Breaking Trends and Public Response

In many modern day scenes, dress codes and etiquette are established for people to adhere to,
especially when interacting with others. These strict regulations naturally limit ones liberty when
dressing oneself as there are expectations that are required to be met, regardless of what the man or
woman individually prefers to wear to a particular event. A study performed by Harvard professors
conclude with the concept that people who have ingrained a reputation of non-conforming
behaviour, such as Lady Gagas appearance in a bizarre and spectacular meat dress, are returned
with admiration and positive attention, despite the habitual requirement for modest dressing.
Naturally, the expected response from the public would be that of horror or disgust, however, the
study prominently proves that people receive these public stunts as a gesture of status and power.
These non-conforming examples portray the image of someone who is very self-assured and bold in
character to break the moulds of social conformity, a rarity in current society and when discovered,
is wholly admired. This argument states that non-conforming styling is a form of expressing ones
individuality as it is entirely based on ones personal preference, absolutely regardless of what
society expects. In addition, haute-couture fashion is a medium manipulated by individual fashion
designers to illustrate and construct garments that are personal to the wiring of their mindset or
their upbringing and background.

Conveying Background Stories

In an online article by The Cut, Shayne Olivers Hood by Air displayed garments described to range
from K-Pop Princess to men with bandanna-printed SARS mask[s]. According to the article,
Oliver claims that the result of his collection allows people to get to know [him], intending to imply

on a personal, in-depth degree because it related to his background. This also defines the creative
input and subjectivity that constitutes fashion, and the ease of expressing ones character and
mindset through the elements of the industry. The same article, however, is titled Its Nice to See
Fashion Get Weird. The focus of the text is on the weird development that current fashion has
delved into and the choice of word explicitly illustrates the negative side of it. Beginning with the
negative connotation that resounds from weird, it is associated with ambiguity, a study of
something unknown and beyond mankinds grasp. This generally links to how fashion is perceived
as otherworldly and inapt for human recognition. As a result, this totally defies the purpose of
fashion to communicate a persons character, as it is perceived as something beyond the boundaries
of the human race, little yet the simple mindset of a person. Its ambiguity proves that current style
is difficult to relate to, again showing its incapability to express personality. Despite this, he is able
to inform the audience what constitutes of his upbringing, formulating a new conception of his life
through fashion.
Fashion Stereotyping

To understand radically new concepts, stereotypes are used as universally recognised caricatures to
interpret complexities. Similarly, fashion stereotyping is an example of how a specific style is
regarded as a culture that has erected a solid reputation of their community. Centered on the style
of the gothic stereotype, this particular culture has proven to isolate themselves by the assumption
that goth-styled people are rebellious, eccentric and pessimistic. On one hand, this appearance was
sustained by the connotations implied by their specific style that consists of the following darkcoloured clothing: corsets, belted flare and ruffled dresses.

Portfolio Investigation

From evaluated illustrations and research, the portfolio clearly illustrates the poignancy of the
gothic culture and how their sinister characteristics stem from history, literature and the psychology
of teenagers. To summarise the minor investigation, fashion stereotyping is particularly effective in
conveying a message to the general public because the individuals style is strongly associated with a
particular culture. This cultures traits can easily be reflected in what an individual chooses to wear
regularly.

Negative Impacts of Stereotyping

Despite this, stereotyping is an accurate example of how surface appearances do not necessarily
always correspond with a persons behaviour and personality. This consequently leads to judging a
person incorrectly and treating them in such a way that they might perceive as offensive or
insensitive. Judging by stereotyping may also establish a prejudice that could unintentionally isolate
two cultures simply by aesthetic assumptions. To conclude, fashion stereotyping is extremely
effective in conveying a message that the individual would want to exude, however, in increasingly
common events, people tend to wear stereotypical clothing for its fashion as opposed to what they
connote and have established in modern day society.

Ready-To-Wear

The ability to express fashionable preferences was initially restricted from the period when read-towear apparel was introduced. According to a web article by Watson, D. titled A History of Ready-toWear Clothing, the main benefit that consumers acknowledged in purchasing ready-to-wear items
is that it is time saving and made it a better option to buy rather than make. This reduces the
process of personal tailoring and selection of materials. In the reduction of personal input to
apparel, a natural decrease in individuality can be recognised in ones outfit. At the early
introductions of ready-to-wear clothing, around the 1850 census, it is suggested that a few clothiers
were just starting to know ready-to-wear clothing, which is indicative of the minimal quantity that
had been produced (compared to modern days production) and thus the diversity in clothing was
limited too. Associating with the development of the fashion industry, the incoming designs were
described to be riskier. This strongly suggests that the designs were more restricted to a specific
preference, and is original by deviating from the norm. It, however, holds a negative connotation
indicative of designs that are distasteful or deemed hideous by the majority of the population,
therefore receiving poor responses as well as a limited number of people who can identify their style
within the designs.

Conclusion

Balancing the evidence of supporting arguments and opposing arguments, fashion has proven to be
a mercurial industry, leaving the project without a solid yes-or-no answer to the question. The
resources along with my personal interpretations, however, prove that fashion is an exceptionally
effective artistic medium that allows for people to express their unique identity. The project
addresses a range of possible factors that contribute to the argument, such as politics, blogging and
stereotypes, proving that rigorous research was completed and explored to discover a range of
perspectives within the context of the key question. There, however, could have been further
research in the aspect of general artistic expression, not simply related to fashion, because it would
have brought an additional dimension to my individual insight of the project and a more universal
approach to the topic. Moreover, there is still room for additional exploration within the aspect of
Rock and Roll, a cultural perspective to the early forms of displaying identity within the context of
history and expanding the horizon of insight in regards to the development of fashion. Other people
may utilise my research as a refreshing perspective of the purpose of fashion and why it is equally as
vital to modern day society as the advancement of technology or political science, two very valued
concepts.

Evaluation

I believed that the depth of my research achieved a high degree of insight. My critical analysis was
clearly incorporated, allowing the synthesis of my individual opinions. Although I struggled to
ensure that all my sources were relevant to my question, my arguments turned out appropriate for
the discussion. The extended project as a whole was successful as it rigorously educated me about
the fashion industry, providing further insight that would better equip me for its competitive nature
as I enter higher education. It nurtured my passion for the fashion communication and media
promotion, increasing my eagerness to pursue a career in it later on. It also allowed me to apply my
knowledge and skills of my academic subjects: English Literature skills of analysis, Art & Design
insight to the artistic aspect of fashion, Design & Technology informed me of the basic concept of
marketing and the relationship between designer and consumer. If I were to redo this dissertation, I
would manage my time more effectively with a more rigid and meticulously planned time schedule.
When writing my discussion, I would also focus on the structure by ensuring that the flow of the
content was smooth so that there was clearer evidence of development.