Five Centuries of American Costume

Books by R.
Turner Wilcox
FIVE CENTURIES OF
THE
THE
THE
THE
MODE
MODE
MODE
MODE
AMERICAN COSTUME
IN FURS
FOOTWEAR
IN HATS AND HEADDRESS
IN COSTUME
IN
OF
AMERICAN COSTUME
FIVE CENTURIES
FIVE CENTURIES
OF
AMERICAN COSTUME
by
R.
TURNER WILCOX
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

NEW YORK
Copyright
1963 R. Turner Wilcox
PUBLISHED SIMULTANEOUSLY IN THE

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AND IN CANADA
COPYRIGHT UNDER THE BERNE CONVENTION
THIS BOOK
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS BOOK

MAY BE REPRODUCED IN ANY FORM WITHOUT THE
PERMISSION OF CHARLES SCRIBNEr's SONS.
A 2.63
[MH1
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

Library of Congress Catalog Card
Number 63-9768
1215671
To Ray and Ruth Wilcox
FOREWORD
THIS WORK WAS UNDERTAKEN upon the suggestion of my publishers
who wished a book on American everyday costume covering that of the
American Indians, the European warriors who followed Columbus and the
civilians who eventually came to stay and build in the New World. What at
seemed almost too ambitious
first
pattern.
upon
The
story has
project
resolved
finally
been worked out principally in
research, the execution of
which proved
into
itself
illustrations
founded
to be exciting, absorbing
and
rewarding.
The
might appear
subject
in light vein to
deep into antiquity, history and the
some but
it is
a study that leads
For
art of all peoples.
instance,
it
was
fascinating to begin with the
American Indians and
were not always garments
wear but some form of body decoration has
to
their tattooing.
There
always been eagerly sought and has always been found. In that ever-present
desire to decorate the
flowers, furs, horns
human
and
form,
man
so forth, even
by mutilation of the
and reshaping some parts of the body

the pain incurred. Instances of pain
has succeeded by taking from nature,
as the ears,
changed down the
The American way
of
life
nose and mouth, despite
and discomfort continue
for vanity's sake even in our supposedly enlightened
of dress has not
flesh as in tattooing
enough
has evolved a
way
and that
Any
is
full dress
for other peoples to wish to copy
adaptability. "Casual dress"
what we have
dress of
is
of dressing
is
and therein
of historic everyday apparel to
is
lies
is
pure
appropriate
It is
attrac-
the proof of
our book.
that thought in
all
mind
is
a possible inspiration
present this collection
those interested and
working
in so vital
a subject as dress costume.
R.T.W.
Tenafly,
1962
New
Jersey
its
the predominant note of our everyday dress
tried to portray in
With
it
which
not specified.
any people anywhere in the world
in the design of costume.
spirit
ages.
any hour of day or evening where
tive
endured
day and age. So the
Americana. Simple, comfortable and wherewithal smart,

for
to be
CONTENTS
CHAPTER ONE
THE EARLIEST SETTLERS IN AMERICA
Vikings
zation
Eskimos
The Aztec
The Coming
Civilization
of the
The
White Men
Inca
The Mayan CiviliThe North
Civilization
American Indians
PLATESpages
17
11-27
CHAPTER TWO
MILITARY 1492 TO
Ancient. Armies
28
1700
Medieval Period
Armor, Crossbow and Arrow

tury
an
Hat
The
Marine
France
War
Thirty Years
Soldiers'
in
of
Spain of the i6th Cen-
Buffcoat
Passing
British
Develop
Helmet and Iron Skullcap

Cocked
Hair and Wigs Boots
Jack Leather
New Amsterdam
PLATESpages
Uniform
Scarlet Cloth
Grenadier Cap
Sailor
Lansquenets
Army Uniform
and Armor
Liveries
34-40
CHAPTER THREE
MILITARY 18TH CENTURY
41
Epaulettes
European Standing Armies Colors
French Regiments
Prussian Influence European Mercenaries into Militia English Militia
American Militia of Farmers and Woodsmen Hunting Dress Uniform
Indian Moccasin
The Rifle Lack of Uniform Cloth The Cockade
Problems of the Uniform Cocked Hat
The Continental Army
Tricorne
Natural Hair in
Jockey Cap Hungarian Shako Wigs
Mid-Century
Sailor
British Marine Dress
U.S. Uniform in 1798
Green for the Marine Corps Basic Blue for Dress and Parade
PLATESpages
49-56
CHAPTER FOUR
57
Color in Uniform Discarded
Hair and Whiskers Shortened

New Marine Uniform
Changes in Dress West Point Adopts Gray
Seamen
War with Mexico Campaign Uniform Blue and Gray ChevBrilliant
rons in 1847
Dark Blue Frock Coat
in 1850's
The Civil War

North
The Sewing Machine and
American Confederate Machine-made Shoes

Uniforms
White Cork Helmet Khaki First Used by the
Spanish-American
Hat
18
War
Stable Dress of the
Puttees, a British First
PLATESpages
61-78
xi
Rough Riders
British
Campaign
CONTENTS
CHAPTER FIVE
79
Khaki, U.S. Army, 1902

New British Features in World War I
The
Overseas Cap and the Return of the Helmet
World War II
New Uniform Color
Eisenhower Jacket
Changes of i960
Permanent Trouser
Crease
Cap
Service
Camouflage and the Jungle Suit
U.S. Dress Manual, Navy, 1959

lettes
Fourragere
The
Service Dress
Armor
Traditional Sailor Garb Retained
Women
in
Service
Korean
War
CHAPTER
SIX
in the
New
Inventions
The Air Force
Boots
Aiguil-
Soldiers'
in
Trips Into
Outer Space
PLATESpages
18
86-103
THE COLONISTS 16TH AND 17TH CENTURIES

The
Settlers
dam
Spanish
Beaver
Portuguese
French
104
Dutch
New
Amster-
English in Virginia, Delaware and the Carolinas
Tobacco
The Huguenots in Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, the Carolinas and
Virginia
English Settlers of New England
Pilgrim Fathers
Puritans
Quakers
Swedish on the Delaware
Germans in Pennsylvania
German, Swiss and Scotch-Irish Trekked Southward by Way of Philadelphia
Regional Dress
The Frontiersman
Muffs
Cloaks
The Change of
Men's Dress to Modern Form
PLATES pages
13
113-125
CHAPTER SEVEN
DRESS 18TH CENTURY
CIVIL
Fashion
Masks
ing
pak
Babies
English
The Hairdo
Brides
Wigs
Cocked Hat
HatmakWoodsman's ShoeThe American Cobbler
Fashions
Caps and Bonnets

Banyan
Footwear
Workman's
126
Clothes
French
Fashions
Washington's
Inauguration
Dress
Simple
Fashions Precede the French Revolution

5
PLATES pages
132-136
CHAPTER EIGHT
CIVIL
DRESS 19TH CENTURY
The Country Spreads West

Fashions
Shawl
137
Discovery of Gold
French and English

Cloaks
Feminine Underwear
Roman Sandals
Spencer
Hairdo
Turbans
London Sets the Tone for Men
Beau
Xll
CONTENTS
Cravat
American Collars and
Frock
Hat
Bathing
Brummell
Garibaldi Shirt
Sewing Machine
American Paper Patterns
Shirts
Growth of ManufacturSilk Top Hat
'Thirties
Machine to Factory
Bloomer
Petticoat into
and
Mrs.
Sleeve
Pantalets
Leg-of-Mutton
ing
Hairdo
ManBonnets and Caps
Bustle
Steel Hoops
Crinoline
Mourning
Aprons
Bodice
Basque
Silk
Petticoats
Footwear
tles
Top Hat of Polished

Tuxedo
Box Coat
Sack Coat
Frock Coat
Norfolk
Suit
Clothes
Country
Derby
Boater
Beaver
Silk
Gibson Girl
Feminine Tailored Suit
Cowboy
Sea Bathing
Sports
Underwear
MarGown
Feminine
Waist
Princess
Wasp
and Man
Crease in Trousers
Bathing
The Coming of the Bathroom
cel Wave
Trouser Cuffs
PLATES pages
148-155
CHAPTER NINE
CENTURY
CIVIL DRESS20TH
Men 1900 to 1910
The American Way
Peg-top Trousers
Men's Dress
ing Dress Broad Shoulders
of
Women
1900
London
the Arbiter
Norfolk Suit
Motor-
Masculine Underwear
Front
Corset
Day
Rainy
Skirt
Men
Lingerie
World War
1910 to
Natural Figure
Slouch
Harem
Skirt
Effect of Italian Military Silhouette
the Fashion
Robe de
Style
Paul Poiret and the
Short Chemise Frock
American Synthetic Fabrics

Boyish Form or Debutante
Lingerie End of Brown and Black Stockings
Blond Hosiery
Cloth
Jersey
Paris Sets
1920
Bathing Suit
1910 to 1920
Women
Footwear
Polo Shirt
Straight
1910
to
of Life
Polo Coat
Hairdo
Kimono Sleeve
Empire Mode
Hobble Skirt
Motorcar Dress
Bobbed Hair
Picture Hats
Permanent Wave
Gibson Girl
156
Stockings with Bathing Suits
Men
Change
1920 to 1930
Synthetic Fabrics
Women
in Silhouette
Raccoon Coats
The Flapper
1920 to 1930
Knitted One-piece Suit
Cloche
Oxford Bags
Plus Fours
The Ensemble
Slouch Hat
Form
Boyish
Hairdo
Cosmetics
Suntan
Nail
Polish
Men
line
Underwear
Women
Lastex
ness
1940
Shirts
Women
houette
to
1940
1950
Hats and
to
for
Halter
Every Event
Neck
Shirt
Heel
Steel Spike
Mae
Bare
Square Shoulders
Swim Suit
World War II
Homburg
Flat Cap
Fabrics
1950
Christian
No
Gaucho Sport
Mascu-
West's Curves
Midriff
Doll Hats
Nylons
Cotton
Hatless-
Fake Jewelry
One-piece
Scarves
Swim Trunks
Shocking Pink
Hairdo
Footwear
in Silhouette
Costume
Fastener
Slide
Play Clothes
Men
Footwear
1930 to 1940
Dirndl Skirt
Change
1930 to 1940
Hats
xiii
Topcoats
Loafer Shoes
New Look
Dior
Femininity Again
Footwear Bikini
Scarcities
1947
Cocktail
Sports
Polo Boot
Change
Dress
in
Sil-
Little
CONTENTS
Men
Gray and Black Period
1950 to i960
League
Ivy
Topcoats
Continental
Raincoats
Women
Sack
or
Furs
6
The
Golf and Tennis
Male
Hatless
PLATESpages
and Slacks
Blue
Chemise
Frankly Fake
Dirndl Skirt
Norell
and
Reshaped
Hairdo and Color
Shorts
Hats
to Shorts
Norman
Change in Silhouette
Wash-and-Wear
New
Shirtdress
Chanel Suit
Culottes of
Hats Mainbocher's Sweaters
Fabrics
College Fashions
From Housedress
1950 to i960
Jeans or Levis
Synthetic
Evening Wear
Outer Shirts
Scarfs and Footwear
Slacks
New
Cosmetics
177-182
CHAPTER TEN
CHILDREN 16TH TO 20TH CENTURIES

16TH
AND
183
17TH CENTURIES
Linen Chemise The Gertrude Dress-up
Pinafore
Doublet and Stomacher Boys in Dresses
Hanging Sleeves Scarlet, the Favored Color
Children of the Renaissance

Clothes
Coif
Swaddling Bands
18TH CENTURY
English Children First into Comfortable Dress
son
Jean
Clothes
Jacques Rousseau
Christening Dress
Little
Girls'
Age
Writers of the
Muslin Frock
of Rea-
Swaddling
Yellow, the Traditional Christening Color
19TH CENTURY
Empire Fashion
Kate Greenaway
Playclothes Boys in Pantaloons
Hair Cropped End of Child's Corset
False Pantalets
Drawers for
Girls and Women by 1830's Pantalets Below Skirt to 1858
Caps and
Hats Cloaks
The 1820's Fussiness in Dress to 1910 Boys "Breeched"
at Four
Sailor Suit
Caps, Hats, and the Topper Older Boys in Trousers Vogue of Historical Dress in the 1830's Scottish Kilt and Marine
Suit in America
Trousers, Pantaloons, and Pantalets Aprons
Wire
Hoops
Busde in the i86o's
Frilled Drawers
Stockings
Footwear
Hairdo Basque Bodice Footwear

Small Boy Sometimes in Skirts
to Six Baby's Trousseau The "Biggin" Christening Robe Little
Lord Fauntleroy
Kate Greenaway Fashions
Sailor Suit for Boys and
Girls
Pinafore
Stages of a Girl's Growing-up
20TH CENTURY
1900 to 1920
Bloomers
do
Change in
Long Stockings
The Dutch Cut
folk Suit
Baby's Dress
Footwear
Boys' Sailor Suit
Trousers for Teenage Boys

xiv
Rompers
Child Fashions
Grown-ups'
Buster Brown Tunic
Hats
like
Hair-
Nor-
CONTENTS
Aftermath of War Knitting, Sweaters and Caps
Shorter
Short Hair
Beret, Cloche and Tarn
Socks and
and Trousers
1920 to 1930
Skirts
"Bobby-soxers"
Simple Tailored Clothes
1930 to 1940
Eton Suit
School and Sports Clothes
Tweeds
movable Linings
Girls
Suit
Norfolk
Play and Sports Clothes
1940 to i960
nel Suit
The Chanel
for
Casual Clothes
The Cha-
All-around Coats, Water Repellent
Fur-like Collars and Linings
The Muu-Muu
PLATESpages
Boys
The American Indian Cradleboard Revived
193-199
xv
Re-
Blue Jeans for Boys and
THE EARLIEST SETTLERS
AMERICA
IN
CHAPTER ONE
THE
WHITE MEN
FIRST
Norsemen
or
Northmen who
to reach
the
American continent were the
called themselves Vikings, piratical sea-rovers
from the Scandinavian Lands. From the eighth
the eleventh centuries
to
they ranged over the northern ocean reaching America by
way
of Iceland
and Greenland. Bold, courageous and capable shipbuilders, but terrifying

warriors, they
went
discoveries included Labrador,
not know.
New World
Newfoundland, Cape Breton and Nova
or Vinland where attempts were
we do
and plunder. Their
in quest of fertile lands
made
The Scandinavian
Scotia
and then abandoned, why,
to colonize
adventures were not collected and
re-
corded in writing until the thirteenth century.
They found
the continent peopled with a swarthy race, ugly
and ferocious
looking. "Weaklings" the invaders called them. Bartering took place but there
was
also quarreling
which was no doubt the reason
further attempt at settlements.

is
moot question but
it is
Whence
Strait.
any
came or how they came
conceded that they reached our shores
fairly well
by way of Siberia and Bering
the aborigines
for relinquishing
By
the time the European explorers ar-
rived the settlements of these Asiatics or Mongolians
were
to be
found on
both continents reaching from the Arctic coast to Tierra del Fuego, having
fanned southward adapting themselves to climate and
Those
who
settled in the Arctic region
meaning "those who

or "the people."
eat
raw
Knowledge
terrain.
became known
flesh" but their
name
as
Eskimos, a term
for themselves
of their early history
is
was "Innuit"
vague but the speech
is
akin to the primitive American Indian dialects and their customs and legends
resemble those of the Indians.
The Eskimos
round, broad faces, narrow eyes and coarse,

Dress for both
men and women
are a short, stocky people with

jet
black hair.
has always been of skins furnished by

1
seal,
FIVE CENTURIES OF AMERICAN COSTUME

reindeer, bear,
dog or
fox.
The
intense cold necessitates a fitted, tailored outfit
for both sexes with fur breeches tucked into fur boots, a
hooded tunic or
parkeh, the hood of the woman's garment being large enough in which to
carry a baby. Wolverine, to
which
frost does
not adhere, edges the hood.
Two
parkehs are worn in the winter, one with the fur outside and the other with
the fur next to the body.
Formerly the
were beautifully sewn
well-fitted suits
with sinew thread and bone needle. Basically, costume has not changed but
modern Eskimo
dress
more
is
elaborate in cut and colorfully
ornamented with
beaded and cut-out motifs.
The
Indians of the North Pacific coast were the creators of art works
now
considered to be the highest form of North American Indian art in their
markable totem
poles,
re-
costumes and masks for the dance, the working of
native copper and silver
and beautiful weaving of basketry. Because of the
mild climate they went barefoot the year round, in the rainy season taking
to a raincoat in the
form of
poncho
Though some
of cedar bark.
old
men
went about naked, young men always wore the breechclout held up by a
The woman's apron
string belt.
belt.
of cedar bark
was
also secured
by a string
Unusual for Indians was the frequent wearing of the moustache among
these tribes.
The most important

bodies of men,
women and
a mixture of cedar bark,
was the blanket which wrapped
part of dress
children.
It
was
a beautiful piece of
mountain goat wool and dog's
hair.
weaving
Some
from Lower California
to
was found along the
in
blankets
were fur-trimmed and an occasional, luxurious robe was fashioned of

otter skins. Sea-otter, almost extinct today,
the
sea-
Pacific coast
Alaska and in the eighteenth century was especially
sought and prized by the Russians and the Chinese.
An
inland group of Canadian Indians
given that
name by white men
is
the Caribou Eskimo,
because from the caribou reindeer
skins they wear, the sinews for thread, strings for snowshoes
meat they
eat,
and the bones and
antlers
which make
was hunted with bow and arrow but today hunting
much
of their food
who were
and
their tools.
is
comes from the trader including
come
the
nets, the
The animal
done with gun and

tea
which
is
brewed
strong and black, a very popular drink.
In 1492 and 1493
Columbus came upon
the scene, his
missioned by Ferdinand and Isabella with the

the Castilian crown.
When
he landed
2
in the
new
two voyages com-
lands becoming realms of
Bahamas he thought he had

reached India, thus the names of Indians and West Indians. "Redskins," the
newcomers
called the aborigines, a
ranged from brown
their flesh
misnomer because the natural coloring
to a lighter
of
shade but the Indians painted
themselves with a red pigment of vegetable and mineral extraction. So "Indians" and "Redskins" they became forever after.
When
news
the
of
Columbus' find reached England, she in 1497 and 1499
despatched expeditions under the
command
of the Venetian,
(anglicized to John Cabot) to take possession of
kingdom. In touching
upon
Newfoundland
on
Norman and
the mainland.
unknown
Labrador, he became the
at
Giovanni Gabotte
first
lands for that
white
man
to step
Breton fishermen are thought to have visited
as early as 1500. In 1500, the
Commander
Portuguese
from the Cape Verde
a voyage to India with thirteen caravals
Cabral,
Islands,
landed in Brazil and took possession of Brazil claiming the discovery of the
country. Americus Vespucci was an Italian navigator, cartographer and writer
who
took part in several trips to the
New
He
World.
wrote his memoirs,
published in 1507, stressing his belief that the discovery was of a
and
proposed America
his geographer-publisher
continent.
name
as the
new
world,
for the southern
Over the years the use of the name spread, by the end of 1600
designating the northern continent as well.
Long
before the white man's coming, there evolved
own dialect as unrelated

The many cultures ranged from
each with
stocks,
each other.
its
as
many
different Indian
European languages are
the most primitive to a truly
complex organization. In southern pre-Columbian America the advanced

of culture suggests a time of
There existed three great
many milleniums
civilizations,
to
to
have accomplished the
that of the
Maya
in
state
rise.
Yucatan and
Guatemala, the Incas in ancient Peru and the military empire of the Aztecs
in Mexico.
ready
With
centuries
when
set in
upon
centuries behind them, a decadence
had
al-
the Spanish conquistadors came, a fact which contributed
to the success of the conquest.
The
first
sight of the Spaniards
Indians, possibly leading
was
a god.
Forever
drawing and
The Maya
culture
A.D.
which
Its
them
after, the
on
their horses
to think that the
must have astounded the
man on
his
handsome
steed
horse became a favored motif in weaving and
all their artifacts.
civilization consisted of a
group of races possessing an ancient
existed before the Christian Era.
people were advanced in
It
rose to
art, architecture,
its
height about 1000
engineering, astronomy,

mathematics and a complex hieroglyphic form of writing but history,
tions
and
The
religious prophecies
minor
Aztecs, originally a
thirteenth century but
were passed on
tribe,
from then on
in
dominant race
engineering,
art,
architecture,
orally.
reached their height of culture in the
a decline
impregnable capital City of Mexico in 1325.

the Aztecs were the
tradi-
is
to be noted.
When
in Mexico.
They founded
Cortez arrived on the scene
They had reached
and mathematics.
astronomy
the
high point
Drawing
evolved into a pictographic writing. Their empire was destroyed by Cortez
and annexed
The
to
Spain in 1521.
Inca civilization flourished during the early centuries of the Christian
Era acquiring
its
had no writing
greatest expansion
as
from the fourteenth century
had the Maya and the Aztecs but
ceramics, mathematics, astronomy and gold
work
on.
The
Incas
in art, architecture,
they were skilled to a high
degree. Archaeological discoveries of our period have brought to light that

the Incas were only a final phase in a long history of Peruvian cultures.
farmer developed and furnished
to the
world more than a dozen
The
staple food-
plants of our daily diet.
The working
was a
of copper, silver
fine art. Basket weaving,
and gold by the Indians of
these countries
and the spinning and weaving
of cotton
and
the soft fleece of the llamas, were of such perfection both technically
and
artistically
handwork done on simple

ian
many forms
before the arrival of the invaders that
women wore
stick
looms remain unsurpassed today. The Peruv-
beautiful fabrics of yarns finer than
modern machinery. The Spaniards mistook

of the Indians' dress for silk.
Garments, the same
as those
of the exquisite
The
being produced by
the fine cotton
use of sheep's
worn hundreds
is
and woolen cloth
wool came with the Spanish.
of years ago, are
still
worn
in the
villages.
Because the weaving was done by hand on the narrow loom, costume
design was of necessity straight and narrow. There were tunics long and short,
fringed robes, crushed girdles, serapes or shawls and scarfs,
colorful motifs, fine straw
and a
sleeveless tunic
weaving and beautiful feather work.
was the feminine everyday
sisted of breechclout, hipcloth or
tume distinguished
all
woven with
dress; that of the
short skirt
man
wide sash and mantle. Elaborateness of
concos-
the wearer, priests and officials being clothed in the most
gorgeous robes enhanced further with ornaments of pure gold. Headdresses
were wonderful creations invariably finished with the long quetzal plumes of
4

Footwear was of skins
brilliant color.
tanned and beautifully dyed in
softly
and white. The explorer, De
yellow, black
mentioned the vermilion leather
as
account expressly
Soto, in his
resembling broadcloth and the black
as a
"brilliant black."
The
They hunted
got
The
quered.
down
and
the chinchilla for food
name from an
its
and fur which they
Incas used cotton,
its
called wool, in their weaving.
The
luxurious coat.
earlier civilized tribe, the
whom
Chincas
small rodent
the Incas con-
were made into mantles and there was a marvelous
skins
cloth of sheared "wool" of the
little
animal.
The
chinchilla
thistle-
was sheared
periodically as sheep are shorn.
To
the state belonged the great herds of llama
clothing, flesh for food
carried
women
on by the
large quantities of
the llama was
and a form of tax payment.

upper
of the
woolen garments
worn by
common
the
class
which supplied wool
constant spinning was
and the royal storehouses held
for the army's use.
The
coarser
The king was always
anew
for the nobles.
occasion, his
wardrobe including a lavish mantle fashioned of
an
art
wool of
people while the finer wool of the vicuna
was reserved
feathers,
for
which these Indians
clothed
for any state
brilliant birds'
perfected.
Quilted cotton was used by the Aztecs, in an overall garment resembling

the
modern union
suit
but very thick.
Its
thickness of three quarters to an
inch proved such a real protection against javelins and arrows that the Spaniards adopted the armor.
The Aztecs
were impenetrable except
at close range.
also carried small
round
shields
which
Interwoven cane and cotton covered
with painted boards was reinforced with feather work producing a shield
which
successfully
warded
off
blows of the jagged blades of obsidian, a
flint-
like stone.
To
the land of the North
in 1562 settling in Florida
American Indians came
on Port Royal Sound and
group of Huguenots
in 1564
on
St.
John's
River where Fort Caroline was established. 1607 saw the founding of James-
town Colony by the English
in Virginia while 1620
Pilgrim Fathers on Cape Cod. 1626
Amsterdam by
the
from the Indians
became known
in 1683.
And
New Sweden
as the
there
sum
in
arrival of the
the date of the settlement of
Dutch and Peter Minuit's purchase
for the goodly
Finns proclaimed a
is
marks the
of
Manhattan Island
of twenty-four dollars.
Delaware
in 1638
New
The Swedes and
and the Germans who
"Pennsylvania Dutch" settled in that part of the country
we have
the beginning of the world's great melting pot.

The term North American Indian
more
fifty
were the
diverse
covers
many
linguistic unlikenesses of
different stocks
and even
which some two hundred and
languages and dialects are spoken today. They had a crude form of sign-
writing but developed no real writing and therefore, no alphabet. All can be
said to be of Asiatic stock with
dark complexion, dark eyes and
Hair on face and body was sparse and plucked
head was unknown. As
if
some have the aquiline nose while others have
faces,
And some
are
war
dress.
tall,
black hair.
present but baldness of the
some have long
to the features,
jet
faces,
some have round
a broader, flatter nose.
was part
others short. Face painting with red pigment
of
feminine note was the line of vermilion in the center parting
of the hair, a brilliant touch that could be copied by any black-eyed beauty
today.
Unlike the Indians of South America and Mexico and those along the Gulf
North American Indians wore few
of Mexico, the
clothes of cloth.
ing was worn was usually of softly tanned animal skins.
What
cover-
general piece of
male dress was the breechclout which consisted of two small leather aprons
hanging from a narrow
Women
wore
one piece in front and one over the buttocks.
a fringed skin tied
round the waist in apron fashion, and young
when
took to wearing a modesty piece
girls
indoors, neither
that matter
who
belt,
man
when
converted
nor
woman wore
When
about thirteen years old.
any covering above the waist, nor for
outdoors in mild weather. Eventually the crusading priests
many
of the Indians to the Christian faith, succeeded in getting
the males into short breeches.
Indian boys in the East,

did have
up the
arm muffs
sides
of fur
who wore no
shirt
even in the coldest weather,
which reached from wrist
to shoulder,
and secured by thongs around the neck.
thrown over the
left
were laced
beaver robe
soft
shoulder and belted at the waist protected the bare body
against the rigors of winter.
Tattooing was a favorite form of ornamentation on body and

chiefs elaborately tattooed
more
from head
delicate design, usually
the practice
waned
tribes.
He
arms and
when George
his body.
Women
were tattooed
legs in bracelet fashion.
in the east as the Indian
man's dress which covered

in the 1830's
to toe.
still
too,
but in
Over the
became accustomed
Tattooing was
some
face,
years
to the white
practiced in the west
Catlin, the artist-author, painted
among
the western
noted that both the masculine and feminine bodies were so decor-
ated, the design applied
by pricking vermilion and gunpowder into the

6
skin.

The outdoor garment was
hemp
the robe or blanket of grass or
for cool
weather and the animal skin which wrapped round and over the head for
The
winter use.
pelts of all available
animals were put to use, moose, deer,
beaver, otter, opossum, raccoon, wolf, badger, fox, squirrel
and
bison which was wrongly called buffalo by the Europeans.
with the
and paws attached was
tail
a treasure.
wear were usually finished without the

to
be
worn
hair.
in the west,
deerskin robe
Robes intended for summer
The winter
robe was
left
furred
fur inside and also to serve as a sleeping cover.
The European found
had perfected
that the Indian
his
method
of tanning
using the brains of the animal to oil-tan deer and buckskin to the texture of
the finest chamois, a secret they passed
note states that moose skins were

status of the
mink
on
to the colonist.
made "wondrous
white."
coat in today's feminine wardrobe
On
and
so well
a par
with the
was the mantle of wild
turkey feathers, the brilliant, iridescent plumes applied to a

grass twine
contemporary
woven
cloth of
done that the foundation was completely concealed
by the feathers.
According
and drawings of the explorers
to letters
it
would seem
that the
Indians from Virginia and along the Pacific coast from Mexico to Alaska
generally went barefoot. Grass or fiber sandals covered the feet of the Mexican
and South America while the northerners
natives, the southwest desert country
of the upper Mississippi

gings.
The man's
and
New
England
locales
wore moccasins and
leg-
leggings reached to the thigh, secured by being tied to the
The woman's
belt of the breechclout.
leggings reached only to the knees, held
by a string garter.
The moccasin resembled
the primitive
European
shoe, the carbatine, being
fashioned of a single piece of leather for the foot but differing in a flap round
the ankle.
The Indian
wore a
of the forest
brother fortifying the sole with heavier leather.
soft-soled shoe, his
The
plainsman
footwear and the
flaps of
seams of robes and pouches were finished with embroidery of tiny beads made
from
shells,
cut-up quills of birds and porcupine, moose bristles, pearls and
sometimes copper. Later, the Indian

dress
made
hair off the face.
Of
the
common form
new
ideas in
of headdress, principally to keep the
skin dyed black, or red bietta cloth
procured by barter with the whites,
row
always eager for
use of European beads.
The headband was
who was
of upstanding quill feathers.
it
which the wearer
was decorated with beadwork and held
The
7
eagle and turkey feathers of the forest

Indians stood upright, the feathers of the plains Indians drooping backward.
Every
smart
bit as
as the
modish pillbox
Canadian border,
in the north along the
trimmed with
called a "capote,"
of the
modern
a real pillbox shape
tiny shells, beads
worn
lady was a cap
which the French
and perhaps
few
feathers
spreading from the center of the crown.
groomed
Indians
and
to tribe
location.
their heads, there being a variance of style according
As
a rule the Indians of the east
Champlain shaved and cropped the head leaving

top to the nape. This was the roach or crest and
New
York and
bristles, a
England often fashioned an
more luxurious ornament than
long hair dressed
hair to a topknot.
grew very long
with
it
Some
hair,
especially effective
oil
and
we
Lake
New
find the Indians of
artificial
The
to
from center
a ridge of hair
roach of deer's
the natural one.
bear's grease.
Those
tail
grew
that
Florida Indians rolled the
of the Plains chiefs in the nineteenth century often
long enough
when
from Georgia
touch the ground.
to
Worn
flowing,
it
was
riding horseback. Indians of the Great Lakes and
the upper Mississippi region braided their long hair.
The
Indians
early
war bonnet was
when
off to
war
by the eastern Indians
the headdress of the western and Canadian
but, since the nineteenth century,
who wear
it
upon
festive occasions.
was
also adopted
Each feather
resented a special deed or "coup" performed, and had to be plucked
golden eagle by the chief himself.

it
unharmed
of birds.
In the
also
had
was revered
from the
and release
to capture the bird
after taking the quills because the eagle
Some modern western
more
He
rep-
as the
king
tribes raise semi-trained eagles for the feathers.
two or three
usual headdress of one,
quills,
the
plumes were
notched to record each "coup."
Women
prided themselves on the beauty of their hair, wearing
it
flowing,
braided or clubbed with the front cut in a fringe. Most unusual and handsome
is
the contemporary headdress of the Seminole
nineteenth centurv and the
pompadour
long hair over her head tying

like a
is
of the Gibson Girl Era. She
at the forehead,
poke-bonnet brim and tucking
place and the result
page
it
a flattering
matron dating from the
it
then spreading
underneath.
it
late
combs her
over a frame
net holds the hair in
hairdo and hat combination as shown on
27.
The costume
of the Florida Seminoles, a tribe
American Revolution,
is
which developed
unique. These Indians were a
after the
split-off of the
Creek

Nation which originally occupied Georgia, Alabama and northern Florida.
During the
1830's, in resistance to
being removed to a reservation in Oklahoma,
they hid out in the Everglades of Florida where the United States troops were
unsuccessful in following the
same
the
many
thing. Here,
At
joined them.
"Runaways" or Seminoles, both words meaning
escaped African slaves from Georgia and
the negroes were slaves to the Indians but eventually
first
many
intermarriage took place so that today,
The contemporary feminine costume

graceful dress of European influence.
flaring ruffle falling
from
most any figure since the

in a
is
swampland! With
the fabric
every
made
Alabama
Seminoles are of mixed blood.
of these Indians
long, full skirt
is
is
a colorful
topped by a deep,
a yoke to the hips creating a beautiful line for alskirt covers the feet.
worn
it is
Not
gown one would
the combination hat-headdress.
expect
Remarkable
which
possible by the invention of the sewing machine, of
woman owns
and
a portable
hand-turning model. Narrow rows and rows
of brightly colored cotton cloth are machine-stitched together horizontally
forming
a kaleidoscopic pattern for a skirt yards around,
and
for the deep
bertha. In men's dress, formerly the breechclout or a pair of skin breeches
but today,
sufficed,
he
may
and
not attired in the "long shirt" of the same gay material,
if
be seen in factory-made cotton shirt and slacks. Dresses for
girls are also
ularly bracelets, necklaces
and
earrings.
round the outer edge of the
The
ear.
the chiefs, liked breast plates of silver, shell

especially eager to
considered
it
own
a signal
silver gorgets
honor
silver, partic-
earrings were suspended
from
Indians of standing, principally
and other materials. They were
such as the European
to receive
The pouch was an important

from the
boys
fashioned of the decorative cottons.
Jewelry has always been part of Indian dress in copper and
holes pierced
little
one from
officers
wore and
white man.
accessory in Indian dress and usually
string belt holding his fire-making tools, his pipe
swung
and tobacco. The
eastern Indian copied the white man's bandolier with pockets, such appur-
tenances
made showy with
The Indian woman had

which
is
just
quill
and beadwork.
a carry-all, a
wonderful convenience, the value of
being recognized by some modern young mothers.
frame, centuries old: a clever, practical piece
on one's back,
it
on a
nail.
set
And
it
down on
making
it
It is
the baby
easy to carry the baby
bench, or the back seat of the car, or even hang
so simple: three pieces
compose the contraption: the board,

the foot board
page
and the bow or arch over which the headcloth drapes. See
#
27.
Slowly, over the centuries the Indian has taken on those parts of the white
man's dress that
much
fit
into his
of living. Factory-made clothes are replacing
of the picturesque costume. But
centuries of contact with

self,
way
European
an individual and the
first
on the whole,
after
stock, the Indian
American.
10
some four and
half
remains distinctly him-
Horsemen
9+b^d lO+ftCerrlu
helmet, sword
fln
a>e
-wooden
êr^d with
reinforced
ror)-belt ar\l
i
of bidecorselet'
gartered
eqglngsrbaf ineS'
woolen
ir/antle
helmet, javelin
d sword of
qr,
iron-jazeran
(scaled corselet)
of lnen or hide
with metal scalesbelt; straps ^d
Carbatine^shoes),
of hide-crossg d rte re d fr ou se rsi
woolen mantle
sheath q\ded
enavaved
r~
n d a xe oX rorr
woolen -funic with
helme-fjSvvord
~*^
embroidery-belt,
sandals
straps a
of hide -crossgartered "frouser5flir mantis
qenh<? It-woi
ron- javelin
axe of iron"
hield covered
de
reinforced
on-- -jazerein
of
hide with
scales -bal't
traps of hide'
ro S-sârtere^
froasersca rbatlnes of
bide
r?T~w
"Ssi? IT)OS
porkeh of seal
or
.
,
retndeer skin with fur inside-
bearskin -trousers-
parkeh at
if sea
mukleks of unb aired
-Fur side in-fringed with
5eal or^walruswolverine collar
doq -Furmukleks of
walrus bide
w'fh bead
-fringe-
painted
Qlaskan
LsK'mo
leather trim
woman
Canadian
Caribou
Gskimo
Sealskin parkeh wth
Snserrible of caribou skin-
painted leather trim^
p^rkeb^rousers, boohs dn d
sealsk"" mukleks
tunfc
(hfp boohs)- fur
red leather'
Ollaskan
s>kiroo
glove-5"-
wf-rb
eatber -frinqe-
side inwolverine hood-
edged
Cctnadian
Caribou
6sk*roo
A.
JSTLwJ
parkeh of brown 0r>d white

Cdr'bou skin-vs/hite
leather ^r'lnqe-^
hood
^'VA/iy
of wolverine
or bear fur-'
sealskin bandskippered boofs'
pouch be|-rW
f nm of colored
Eskimos-modem
calico dress ov&r
fur parkeb'foxor
wolverine hood'
deerskin boots
oversealskin
Socks and
woolen
leather-
sfockinc}5-
Canadian
far-kned
C5m bou
m it-fen s-
.skmo
Ljouincf
OskTmo g'n
prirvred cot+oh dress over fur parkeh-fur-ITned hood TorcarryiVig ba bu;'

I
"-Hie fa-fin
calico over fur parkeb-
fur hood- deerskin

fur s'lde irv
breeches'
blue coôn dress

over fur parkeh-bjue
undevslip- deerskin or
wolver'ne hood'
navy
Qlaskan
z'ppered
C^kiVloS-
leather boots
gray ^cfwbil
Bering
Beach
c/laskan
Eskimo
j=?
-r\y

if
formed of long
scarf embroidered
skir+
Qt1
no
embroidered robe ah>dS<3
auan
fJed
d ]ade-Tr'riged
hcur bound
COn + ras-Knoj Color'
5w'
rl
of
own
i+h
I'P
Ceremonial
chleff"aTn's
daughter
%8K
mofherin
wrapped sKIrfbaby in'Yebozo"handloomed
i
Silky- looking
priest dressed
coHon
or
woolen
bcarh"in jaguar
wnefarmer's
sk'n - gold
ornarnenfs,
jade a nd
fa rqoi sequel* d
I
plumage
j^-rvV
ribbon
sman go*r>q
h.a*r-
beadb andornaments
feta-fhers-
knotted scarf Jf
headdress 01
goldêwels q nj
-hny feathers-
clo-th
anzie.r)t
a
"d modern
ec
'
oung
WSSf
gir! in
Crfnqect
embroidered
tunic 3*4 trapped,
scarf 5WTrt-
fan z'qn'ii'es
o diplomat"
rolorful
ficd
headband
embroidered
rcbe~ gold
jade jewelry
headdress or
qc\d ornaments
a *d
jlcim
quetza'
age
youngâ in
-funic
in
embroidered
0r>d
appl'que'ct-
rapped, fringed
scarf
-rie?d
skfr-f'
headband
warn or on way
fo ceremonial-
qu'lted +umc
wM"n pa
-Tabs -
mted
jew&led
legbandsti'ed
headband
w^ffi
panache
csf
-feathers,
gold.-h-o-tfiJaise
an d
P?
-J\.
iade
Pooo2
^r
Jncasof Peru
aovernmeritoi fidd
sniped co+fon
'n
robe'fcll harwffri
Q id
armer we an ra
scan
long lofn
embrofdery.gold
wf-m ernbro'dered
jewels
mo+'i'^S-pd'h+'ed
"eei-fber Kelrnef'
qomrd
-for
carry ing
dress ofco++'on
in
tmllfein+'deep colorcot-ron mo-t'i-fs
embroidered
Con1"rrtsT'r>^
+01163
ari
wcuer
whrfe co-Hon frocks

multicolored
embroidero\ch'ldre
v\M-t"ri
Cin
off'cia
Jncas of
i OCA
ay
reminiscent" of Clndalusian
dress^red velvet bodice

with lace -frill
n
d embroidery;-
green velvet" skfr-f'daTk gray

felt chola thatV
Si'lk sto c Kin^s
with sandals
bngbt red
woo Icn
poricho-stripe
black a *d
wVifte-'blflck
knee breeches
monteâ of bla<?k
-felt with white
cord trim--ftfrmer
^|l clofh costanie -hai

J
shoulder niqnfle " n 4 jacket
In red -purple skirts -green
apron-'f'ri
1
n red g re D,
(
black ""4 white-
woman's tnontera
(hay edged
w'+b notched
reen cloth'
sandals 4 nd
silk
woolen pon cho,

red,qra^ a "db\ack
black woolen
trousers~chullo, a
stock in g^Re cap
ted with white-
Resign 'commonly
worn under
tbemont-era
(See
'
above)
vs/
-JL
ftockings
Jndians of Florida
16+h Century
witch doc\orcropped to a
hair
roach 'bluebird
aiteiched -ani ma
I
skin apron
blad d&r pouch

with leather
chief'
-ha
Woo
lea+he
ornan")
copper
dressed up
,*_ r
ar
>d
in
/^---W3 -i.-i
-
raccoon
'
-/
Vki-
.<
-Carl
Vi'rqiniq cnief'
tnnged deerskin
uoung woman
wearing a scarf
of p a
l=?-rV>y
qpTOn with -fa

hfl'r cropped
to roocht'ed knotip
back' srr, 3i
feathers
\/
Jnd'ions of Florida
16-th
your<g vJoman
w*r"h hinq&d
Century
deerskin apron
-fron+ dn d backcopper or bone
beods- flower
headband
-ta"ffbofc?d
wan-ior
deerskin gjrdle
qR d pouch -fringe
ofta'ils-hair
rolled " nd dressed
-ib
a -topknot'
ringtail or
+Ci'il
raccoon
-copper
OTnarnen-f 5
4
man
wear
ng\
d roan-tleôf rqbb" +
body-slashed
skin5-bar crapped
to a broach frorn
center front -to oape'
over
f" a ra aha pe
10
mantle of fur
wifh fur side
-ro
wi+cb doctor
older
hide fn'nge
hair cropped fo
a roach wffh
ban at nape
forehedd
Jndlans of -the 17th Can-fury
1
of
RKod
breec
clofh
fur marine
headban
bel-f'St'K/e
ch a Tr. "tf
-Turaaose
dgerskfn
I63T
eastern 3ndian
w'+b wild turkey
frilled
white
European
li'nan
shirt-
deersk.fr> le-ggings-j|pn
-fringed side seams

ar>d
red trfrofastened to
headed
sk'ri
belt-
pouches
in belt-
-Feathers
fastened fo
r-oacln
Dew Sweden cllônau'tfn chief, Kng rhi|i p- c. lb75"on -the Delaware -uropecr> white linen, collared shirtrno-ther 0h d daughter- beaded pillbox ha-tj
evidence of *5wedisr) necklace- ^"d
influence In silver belt- powder
ornamen+S aiM vjoveo hom -cloth
eces -cloth man-He
Jinduans of
deerskfn
bo of 5
'
Jcoûois dress- Colonial

in
dyed deerskin
porcupine
changed
/i?
8 th
..Iroquois dress --Colonial Period
Century
indued deerskin with

porcupine gulll embroidery later changed to Mropean
qu'll ernbro/'derL)^/'-
later-bo
fcuropean fabrics in
broadcloth, cot+ons
4n d
Jndians-
Period.,
wi-Hi white,
fabrics
"*
beads- never
style orcolor>
belt,5qsb a nd crossed
style or color-
overdress
ban ds, red wftb white
blue
red leggings wftb

a id
k'lt
"n
with
d white
broidery- white
whire,
otton-frTlls-darh
tied at knees--
green
broadcloth
ever changed
chan^&d
blue
in
ttons a "d beads ;
blue skirt
with
with white
w bi'le- tur ban
embrn/dera
pantalets
red green 4n d
wbi'f-e With
eagle feathers^
fled at hnees'
red vvfth
silver disk
on cha'n
blue a "d while

epibroidercj-
woolen
mantle*
moccasins
Red 3ocket-i7J8?->S30'Seneca chief Set oratorred jacket presumably tha-b presented to him
one
erf trie
chiefs
who
visited Condon-'
therefdre, buckled shoes with
by a British officer-
"red beels^signi'&jmg royal birth'
bead frfruje
trim- red silk sasb-
velvet coat-satin
breechessilk
stockings- velvet
cap -beaded beltWoolen mantle-
brafd
<,ln
t<
white linen shirt

"hd cravat- silver
meâl
gift
cjf
WashingtondeersUin
leggings
moccasins
pur cap
based
or?
portrait"
R.W.VW
vn:
1710
red Woolen mantle with

ue border an d scalp locks'
deerskin .skirt
Century
8 th
with scalp locks'
beaded bert with
9 6^\
small
dead
__
deerskin leggings
a,1
d moccasms'
toque of birds
breasts
"n
fiea-rhers 't\vo
eagle plamess'lver medal'

>5sn eca.
JroqUola warnorfur,
chief'
tail-edged
blanket-headdress
of wkeatsp'kes'earrlngs
of polished stones-red
leaf
ornament-green
deerskin leggi'ngs
leather bootsj na+ura
color -pouch-pipe
tomahawk-simple
tomahawk- war club'
\f80's
VV.
colcived
wcclen
rocmtle-- whi'te linen
shirt--
silver armlets-chain w'th locke-t- beaded

cord holding Smoking
pipe ^d tobacco
pouch- leather
baldric-black
leather legg'ngs-
deeTskm nioc c asms'

rffleIf
IDohawk
8o5TVi
chief'
Creek 3ndfan who visited London-
padded
silk
mantk
with r'bboh bandswhrte Then shirt"I
silver arroletesilver gorget-
jeweled necklacea feathery nosegay

headdress'tatôo
on forehead
Mack
lea
leggings-
deersk'n
moccasins
IffeOs
^V-
750 5
ar
>d
I83C
porcupine quill wwfe

Trfnge of thinner
SCdlp locks
ptpe of
-.'fj''?
'.'"
2 :
.;..' -
:-:':
:
- :
;..~
"
:'
Sr
'if
bJack
ron-rbrsO'H
iCastnsleggings- red
-'
:
-: -
->
IS
"
apiO'-
back'bui'--
Collar?'^
: :
.-
bead
bow
rieCA
<"
-JS'erj
t
-"'-""'','1-11
d ress of
mountain goalsk'o'
wHb porcupine embroidery

fringe of scalp iocks-
boy
in
dyed deerskfn
leggings "d moccasins

a>
JV
>d
apron
Crow jbîans Tamed for long haTr

somef'mes reack'nij fo+he
19+h
Centur
c^Tound'pdinfed
mantle of
buffalo sk'n
keaddress
eagle
gu'lta,
small
feathers"^
Colored
stone-s-
peck ace ""d

I
earnnqs
of samedtJersk'n
mocra sm5
IS
Jo's
Ortoe Jnd'ar> "n

oat of qrhzlt^ bea
pelf and claws"
deerskin leggings
:
"d
moccas'ns-
Dead embroidery
n d ribbon -fringe-
headdress of
eagle quins mju nfe<j
an red cap With
q
shelly silver bqnd "d
ornaments- silver
medal' pipe wffb
scalp locks r
I830 's
Osage brave
wrfli ruff o-ffeaêrs'irCÔCf'^w Ondiqii n

deerskin apronjeqq'nqs Qn dj balNplaumg dress
moccasms wifb bead body faftooeci
n
d wampum embroidery- painfed-bree
b/ue s'lkbreecb cloth' olofh^dbec

rose silk garters be If'- mane of
w'-fk scalp locks- korseha'r roun
s'tlver bracelets
bow and arrows8
30
'5
neck-f^n
nf
or dyeci
horjekafr
M,
ûnls-l83c>s
^f?~T
J n d 'a n s
9+h CenfurLj
FDondari ckfeT' funic of
mountam
embfo'deru-scaln
locks co skirf-
wdr eagle
^ .^
mountain aoat skin-
horns
feather.*-
,V
ch'efof 5acs ^d fbxes

a,
id leggings of
sh'rf
bonnet "id fr'm of

t<sif Is,
y /,-*%.
ermine ah d
errnine
sheep-skin-ûill
headdress, red
51*7
plu
j/j
dears kin leggings

witk, self fringe
mag a *A eaqle
a,uill-rnultfcolored,
,/?
Si|
sash-red
at s'de seamS'//://
breech clotn-
Where ^/(tjM
red flaps at
knees a "d
scalp
l c
ks//|0j
I830's
moccasinsred wcolen
blanket
border-
blue
buffalo claw
Yiecklaces'lver armlefs-
-tomahaw keafher shield

with -faiklance
\n/tfh
feafhersI830's
-raven -he wire 01 + he above chief 0+

-rhe 5acs and Foxes- cos+um<2
<jf"<j"vfifzed
stuff s"
in
mal-ri%pasfe|.
colors- bodice, pantalets

fl(
>d band on skirt, red
shawl over 5nc

covered with pin
silver broc>che<
1X30 s
quill embroidery -</4

fringed with
scalp locks-- /,
headdress
o\
f.
Quiver of
.A,
buffalo Vi'de*
ance wfth eagle
Vjj>
kr
-v
auills q d
scalp
locks- l83o's
m inole "Jndians
"dZO-th Centuries
Qri
d wn'+e
design on .blue ground --fan
tunic of silk wi-th rose
coôn
Se
of
tringed skirt
w'-Tb
Os
green
a "d
yellow border'
yellow Deftba with
fur
rose a "d red -frTnr
wfth ostrich plumesbead belt w'H> silver

j;5Ks a id scalp locks-
beads
beads q *V<
ver
headdress -
Jl
"d s fiver
stl
ornaments- ribbon
18-30 5
gorgets-silver
bracelets w't+i
5calp locks-red bcckskfn
blue iops
"h
d scaip
locks -yellow
moccasins ""d
above knees
rifle
powder horn
"d sheepskin
poucKiS30's
contemporary OemTnole dr^ss-varlegated. colored confemaorara Semmale dress- the long shirt -also
sNi'ps of cof"-fon clofh 5ewn together-made coas'bh worn w^h slack's ^made bu the worvienoT varfeqated
by the sewing macOi'ne Colored str'otfs
ha'r dressed overvcame-' of cotton clc*"h
nfJuence of pompadour sewn together
fashion IS^0'5-h*r on a. portable
worn
-fbwirig bj
yoijng
sew/ing
women machineturban band

of same
/'Hy<
mmmi
?*s
.ttw;
Zurw woman
of Pueblo
handWoven, black
(Are.
which has hot changed

since pre
Columbian
daus-beaded
belisHver^d
turquoise
jewelry
new m
white
deerf km
legging 5
*d
boois
OMafema/^n headdress
tzute -Jiond woven
cloth'30 by tO inches
used as basket
folded
pad as protection
against
sun
or
as a cqrry-q
Pueblo ^nd\ar) clancer^bluick dress-
beaded red beltred, blacked

white shaw
white deerajcm
'squash blossom
legg'ngs_ ah d
coi'W"3
moccasins
traditional headdress for
young
J+op"
silver
women'
]ewe|ry
18^3
Oe m
\o_ o 00 oi
n o le
coiffure
<">dV^_
one-fashioned oftL wearer's

Jiafr-drawn up from the neck to +he
forehead-tied a d spread over a
cardboard frame on
ha+" in
top 'then
drawn
under^d
tucked,
in-secured by
a net"
an ingenious
turban-a length
chief's
of
Crown
eagle featloers
^>d
ermine tculs-
Dew ongland
Jnd ian17+bC,
of red felt about
two inches wide
Wound round cy
wadded roll df1d
tw'sted info shaped"
on floe head-
Contemporary
Suatemalan
"eoc
i=?
-rs^y)
MILITARY
TO
1492
CHAPTER
TRAINED ARMIES OF SOLDIERS
1700
TWO
back
date
ancient
to
The
times.
Egyptians, Babylonians, Assyrians, Persians, Greeks and
Romans each
in turn
Then came
the so-called
"Dark
had powerful warrior troops

Ages" when wars continued
in uniform.
to be fought but the fighters carried
on
their
warfare in motley or everyday clothes.
The modern uniform
armed bodies
of
Medieval Period when the retainers
who
men had
of
lived
its
beginning in the
late
and worked on the lands of the
feudal lords followed their masters into battle. These retainers wore the colors
and insignia of
tries
who were
their knight, but there
were
also mercenaries of other coun-
They wore
hired and paid to fight.
own
clothing of their
choice in fabric and color and according to their means. Gradually ensigns,
flags
a
and standards came
mark
of
home
to designate the
opposing sides of battle and became
base to the fighter.
In the fourteenth century, the Swiss soldiers,
who were
the
first to
adopt
an insignia, wore badges, sprigs of oak or pine, straw, corn, a colored feather
in the helmet, or a cross of white linen
sewn
to the tunic. In another instance
of the Swiss distinguishing marks, a black bear
armor. This eventually led to
was painted on the iron-plate
silk scarfs of a certain color
the waist or neck and, in turn, to enforcement of
some
being
wound round
rules pertaining to the
soldiers' dress.
At the time
of the discoveries in the
European nations were

prince or sovereign
various
countries,
still
Portugal,
Sweden and Germany. The
World, the
soldiers of the
clothed in the armorial colors furnished by the
who employed
Spain,
New
them.
To America came
France,
the
Low
soldiers
Countries,
from
England,
favorite color for "liveries," as such clothing
termed, was red, the retainer receiving two
28
suits a
year
from
his
was
commander.
MILITARY 1492 TO
1700
This was the period of armor which was worn over regular dress or a
fitted suit of thick cloth or leather
much
modern union
like the
Armor
suit.
was not new, having been worn by the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. The
beautiful Gothic
and edges
tion
and
came
its
armor
of the fifteenth century
sword and
to deflect the thrust of
its
most
was
lance.
built
Armor
reached
perfec-
its
the turn of the sixteenth century but
artistic stage at
be-
it
too heavy and, at the
same time, the improvement of firearms lessened
Foot
were not provided with armor, wearing either a
usefulness.
padded jacket or
owing
soldiers
This century marked the decline of armor,
a chain hauberk.
made
to the progress
in artillery.
Crossbow and arrow disappeared
alrymen.
The gunners no
and shoulder
breastplate
pieces.
wore
Armor
felt
a casque-shaped
as part of British
The
seventeenth century.
liked by painter
Light horse cavalry wore almost complete

cuirass but a doublet of buffskin
and
Army
an
And
foot
flaps.
dress disappeared in the last decade of the
breastplate,
sitter as
When no
hat decorated with a panache.
helmet with neck cover and ear
cuirass survived for a while in a
shoulders.
cav-
hat with turned-up brim and boots. Officers discarded the helmet,
wearing instead the slouch

soldiers
horsemen and
longer wore armplates while the lancers wore only
armor while German cavalrymen wore no

felt
and new
after the Battle of Paris in 1525
bodies of troops were formed of gunners, pikemen, light
and a
with fluted surfaces
worn but
occasionally,
was
especially
artistic piece of still life in a portrait.
shaped yoke of
longer a protection,
steel to protect
The
neck and
became the ornamental gorget,
it
small crescent of steel or silver plate suspended from a chain round the neck
as insignia of
an
officer's
rank
in full dress. British officers stationed in the
American Colonies sometimes bestowed the gorget upon an Indian
chief in
recognition of service, a reward that was highly appreciated by the recipient.
Though
lians
first
and
in
many
rustics
countries, large units of fighting
still
wore
in France that the
rule. Occasionally, a
their ordinary
working
men composed
clothes in service,
wearing of uniform dress began
wealthy colonel put his
men
of civi-
into
to be
was
governed by
at his
own
ex-
colonel
was
re-
uniform
pense, the uniform, however, remaining his property.
it
sponsible to his commander-in-chief for the welfare of his regiment, in charge
not only of
its
clothing but responsible also for the condition of the armament.
Cavalry and infantry too, came under this arrangement in which the colonel
of the regiment chose the color, cloth
and
29
style of the
uniforms.

Spain, the leading military
influence in western fashions
Army
century.
as
dress
now
did the rest of Europe.
power
and
became
of the sixteenth century,
a strong
etiquette, a lead she held into the seventeeth
followed the elegant Spanish bombasted silhouette
The
peasecod-bellied doublet with short skirt and

life.
The
long, silk, knitted hose were protected by a shorter pair called boot hose.
The
puffed trunk hose became high fashion both in civilian and military
and gorget survived the century
lobster-tailed steel helmet, cuirass
armor declined, the leather jerkin or buffcoat took
use of heavy
The
doublet, or padded, fitted
wear
to
but, as the
as the corset for
underbody
women and
men,
place.
its
called a waistcoat, took to civilian
worn
children, to be
for centuries
come.
fantastic military dress
cenaries of the fifteenth
was
that of the Lansquenets,
and sixteenth
centuries.
They were
foot soldiers carry-
who
delighted in fancy
ing crossbow, lance and the heavy, two-handed sword,
and embroideries or whatever was
dress of velvet, satin, brocades
The Germans
the
Duke
of
German-Swiss mer-
copied the Swiss soldiers who,
Burgundy, mended
when
they
won
ragged clothes with
their
the battle against
strips of tents,
were ornamented with
hats
From
ban-
High-crowned
ners and furnishings left behind by the fleeing Burgundians.

felt
available.
and sweeping plumes.
scarfs
1618 to 1648 the greater part of the European continent was engaged
in the Thirty Years
Military dress,
what
War
there
in
which men were almost constantly
was of
it,
followed the
mode
at battle.
of the day in civilian
clothes, the only difference
being in heavier cloth for body protection. So long
a siege of military activity
was bound
to bring about a change,
one
in
which
the mercenary troops were retained and converted into standing armies, each
power now giving consideration
to the establishment of a
permanent
force.
In 1635 the French cavalry squadrons were organized into regiments.
The
seventeenth century saw the decline of the Spanish corseted
the Paris of Louis XIII (1601-1643) taking over as arbiter of

dress.
mode and
European court
This was the chevalier or cavalier fashion which brings to mind the
aristocratic portraits of the great
Flemish painter,
(1599-1641), an age often noted as the

the age of
"The Three Musketeers,"
Van Dyck
Sir
Anthony Van Dyck
Period.
It is
also
known
as
that ever-thrilling tale written by Alexan-
der Dumas. Soldiers wearing these costumes came to our shores. Out of this
fashion,
which
really originated in the
Low
Countries, evolved the soldier's
buffcoat of buffalo hide, a very comfortable and important garment.
30
The
MILITARY^1492 TO
chamoised
buflfcoat of
leather, a costly piece of apparel,
under or over the
either
1700
cuirass,
but by mid-century
was worn
at
wore
officers
first
with
it
longer and flaring skirt edged with fur, the skirt slashed into four panels, the
better for horseback.
From
The Georges
mercenaries in service with them in the American Colonies.

of
England were kings of Great Britain and Hanover. Thus
Hanoverian regiments,
stadt,
German
here on our interest centers on the British soldiers and the
especially those
were frequently brigaded with
the colonies.
Many
it
was
that
from Hesse-Cassel and Hesse-Darm-
British troops
on the continent and
of these Hessians remained after the
war
in
make America
to
home.
their
The
ment
British
of an
in 1645
were the
army uniform. The
first
when Parliament under
permanent
army
As time wore on
European powers in the actual develop-
standing army in England was established
Oliver Cromwell raised
service. France, despite
get into line in
soldier,
earliest of the
its
own army
her reputation in the military
field,
for
did not
dress until later in the century.
the coat of scarlet cloth
became the mark
of the British
by the end of the century differing only in the color of the regimental
facings of the various units. Breeches were gray, white, blue, yellow or any
color the wearer desired, in fact the scarlet coat
the dress. Occasionally, a
family put his
was
at
men
into
the funeral of
commander when
in
mourning
mourning with black
Cromwell
was the only uniform part of
facings
in 1658 that the
member
for a
on the
of his
scarlet coat. It
London Foot
Soldiers
were
furnished with such coats by the Lord Protector's son. Another like instance
was
that of
Lord Chesterfield whose men were
attired in red coats lined
with
black and carried black flags with red crosses.
long waistcoat of buff leather worn under the
scarlet coat
was the dress
of the light horse troops in 1661 and eventually, the uniform of all British
cavalry regiments and finally, of almost
Europe up
to the advent of the
all
the line infantry everywhere in
shako and coatee of the eighteenth century.
The complete costume comprised
coat, waistcoat, breeches, black stockings
reaching above the knees and gaiters over shoes or boots. Officers' dress was
of the
same pattern
as that of the
mented with gold and
men
silver braid
but in fabric of superior quality orna-
and embroidery.
An
officer also
wore a
luxurious silk sash in the national colors and sword and gorget.
In headgear the
morion and the
lobster-tailed helmets lasted into the
31
mid-
century.
broad-brimmed hat
gray,
which the English
of beaver felt
called
the "slouch," enhanced with braid and plumage, often accompanied the uni-
form even when in
The
neath.
The
up
not in use was carried in the saddle bows.
named
cock,
When
the brim was looped
first
was cocked front and back
it
Khevenhuller, Androsmane or Swiss
II.
At
making
side for convenience, then looped to the other side
three-cornered hat. Next,
mouth
an iron skullcap was worn under-
case
floppy hat evolved into the cocked hat.
one
to
when
"scull"
which
action, in
Duke
after the
Monmouth
companies of Grenadiers were added
part of 1600, the
substituted.
into the so-called
(1649-1685), son of Charles

to the infantry in the latter
wide-brimmed hat was found inconvenient
grenades so that in the British
Named
Army
Another military hat was the Mon-
style.
of
it
throwing hand
in
bag was
a fur-banded cap with tasseled
the grenadier cap, the frontal rose high like a shield, in
metal or embroidered cloth, the

finally into the tall fur
tail
grew small and disappeared, shaping
cap of the grenadiers and
eighteenth
fusiliers of the
century.
The wearing
tion in 1660
of wigs did not
when
Charles
II
become general
in
England
the Restora-
till
returned from his exile spent at the court of
Louis XIV, wearing a black, full-bottomed wig. Periwig,
it
became
word assuming such
a contraction of the French perruque, the
in English,
contortions as
peruyke, perewyke, periwig, winding up finally as just plain "wig." Soldier,
sportsman and traveler adopted the
short,
bob wig and the short campaign
wig, this latter dressed in two curls which
hung down
shoulder. Soldiers also plaited their natural hair
in
back over each
and tucked
up
it
in back
under the cap. Occasionally, when long hair was required in military
flowing horsehair
Officers,
hung
in
back attached
however, wore the
to the
dress,
edge of the cap.
large, heavy, curled, greased
and powdered wig
with large cocked and plumed hat, truly an absurd getup
when
in action.
In the ranks, about 1684, the hair was bobbed or else tied back for convenience
and then, the
silk
bag appeared some time before
1700,
worn
the army. This style, considered neglige and disrespectful, soon
proval of the
collar
elite in civil life for
the very special reason that
and coat from a layer of powder. Powder applied over
grease or
pomade was
at first
won
it
first
by
the ap-
protected
a base of candle
used in grayish white, light brown or tan, pure
white not appearing until 1703.
This was the period of the boot, of velvets and fine

32
soft leather in civil life
MILITARY1492 TO
1700
made
but soldiers and real horsemen wore the heavy jack boot which was
bulkier-looking by spurs and broad spur leathers.
but more popular was the
waxed
name
"jack boot" because
leather coated with tar or pitch, the
same
huge jug or tankard which held
blackjack, a
came
shoes and boots
was
It
in about 1600, a feature
called the kettle boot
made
employed
as that
flattered
masculine vanity
in adding height to one's stature. Eagerly adopted by both sexes,

heels ever since. Also to be noted
were the leggings and
for the
Heels attached to
ale or beer.
which
of jack leather, a
we have had
gaiters
worn from
the end of the century on.
The
use of jack leather brings us to seamen's garb of short, full breeches,
a tunic, a short jacket and a bonnet. Jacked leather originated in England,
appearing
the sailor
in the fourteenth century,
first
is
known
in the English-speaking
tarred leather jacket
has been
whence the colloquialism by which
and bonnet. The
world
as "Jack-tar"
because of his
practical outfit spread over
worn with some
variations
by Dutchmen, Germans,
some four
centuries.
The
Frenchmen
for
original design
was
Europe and
Italians
and
that of the
Basque seaman of the Mediterranean Sea, the loose breeches and tunic permitting acrobatic
movement aboard
was the truncated hat of fur or
The uniform
of the
the sailing ship.
Of
leather.
marine or sea soldier
finally settled into a bloused shirt
of canvas or coarse linen with open, lay-down collar over

or waistcoat of
short, heavy,
The
full
homespun buttoned down
in
The
grew
roamed
cities in this
of
New Amsterdam
became one
of the
hemisphere. Settled in 1626 by the Dutch West
was granted
it
monopoly
of trade in Africa
into a base for the trading of furs
no stigma attached
sailors
called a pea jacket.
favorite.
America the Dutch port
Indian Company,
city
over that the
loosely knotted neckerchief also served as headkerchief
woolen cap was a
most cosmopolitan
The
is
And
a doublet
breeches were secured by a sturdy leather belt which also held pouch,
a knitted
Here
which went
center front.
padded cloth or leather jacket which today
knife and pistol.
and
the sixteenth century
and
and America.
slaves as well, there
being
to the latter enterprise in those days. Visiting soldiers
the streets of the busy Atlantic seaport with sailing ships
world ports docked
at its
wharves.
33
and
from
Spanish
I
bib Century
peasecod be\\ed
boa bl ef w 'to ttu o k
boge q,1 d caniovis-'
sflk paried <ah d
sla&rieo>l(3wr)
|
olla
;uf-fe
wi'+h
ace-bdlaV'c
of gold cria/'ns
clocked
s'lk
"
stockings 'earher skoes-\.

Ik tocju<=
with J
jeweled btfn<4
od feathers
fl
mi
li'fdry
coTimander15-64-
engrj
sreel
Cuiras
|i
men
shi rf
w'th lacepane-d trunk
hoscwnnWed
âffeâ canions
knit"
woolen
stock ings'\eair>e
boots- morion
w'th ear -flops'
dagger- polea.rm
|5bH-
'
I'M 51
ck armor with
easecod wh're ffia/ta cross
"combed moriontrjnk hose' green sash -green
'Ik "toque
velvet Tuli slops'
whi'te stockings
S-rnusket y ellow shoes'
rS-necK
re&r, sword
d powder
m'l"fory
lflnderIS8I
-r-rv/
rnil'tyru
comma der'
rv
I5"70's
-h/pical sqiIot's
garb-' middle ti
eT-i<3cked leoHnev
Vene-Kansdoublet
parviLjIoohs
ô' V
at
"Trim^ldwn
braid
heavy,
collared cuffs-si
-h-inic
sdsh'fekhatvv-th
jewel ar)4 feo-thers-Kni t
s-tockmgs - leather shoes pole<arm
"^sworq '
1
cap-fa ih of
honor qUdrd
15"'
English
16-rh
Century
ifi'cer jn
peasecod
bellied
Cuirass
with gilded
e,r\qrav'\nq-b\ue
a
sash frfnged
edged
cke+ over linen

shorf Trunk
_hirt-coa+ blue
-lOse-Kfif-fied
red or red
srocknqs_,low trinr
|eotherSriO?5-
w'l-fb
fffngs-cross o.
sword.Seorqe-pcing'd
leves^dcan'ons'
Cap UJudlly red

tailored c|o+n
tocKings -slashed
lea-f her sboes--
maske-h-powder
flask-sword'
Henrtj
gm so ktierj
S^'lors garb of russet a coarse, redd'sh

or gray clo+h
worn
by +he corarnonets+jrifc of clo+h or jacked,
lea-rber-neck rufrur bo^neh of
goat lamb or
dotf sk'n-
leafber shoes
stockings
clo-t'h
brown
w+ hgold-
\r
\6-fhCenfrur
foot soldi'er--paned
jfe?|^
Q id
slashed coslyme
of c|oth
1d silk-
hose
wfh codpieceeather shoesfdi'lored cloth
felt
|f^j
pansd ""d
ha-f-VN
plumes-
Sashed
Swiss a d
C0stum<? af clo-
Sernian
"id sflk-gnrdle
of slk puT-fs-
^lercenanes-
XansqjenefsIst
ruffs at
half of
necked.
wnsfs-feU- hat
with eludes
century
stock "ngs-le^+ber
Shoes- rlem'sh-
I
~"V
Winged
doublets" Ik scarf'
braided cloth
shirf wHh rosettes'

"Spanish Slops
f-h
panes
wth
ar|
i
-
garters-codpiece
fastened w+b
rose ttes'felt kat
w'tk plumesleather shoes'
oth hosepole-arrrj,
dagger
a
cosfb nie of slashed

clo+h -Venetians 0n d
doubletover linen
shrrt-sil k
sash
bonnet"
of jacked leothe
with sl IK band tasseled powder
flask 0n d musket'
fosse led sabretache
*.n
*t ho5e--
Dutch-!S8o's
wy
"d
sword'
Swiss-
ce.
^r-
3" icer
clotb doublet ever
Co lid red shirt"bra'tded pantaloons'
rrcr, n
6-fin
bonnet
ot
cuirass
CentumYJ4
"n
d gorget wild
ruff-
embossed cha'n decordt'ionpaned trunk hose a n<J

codp'ece -sword an d
dagger belt's passed
cinder ribbon paneskn, + fight's Or hose
leather shoes -
Tacked
leather, ribbon band.

a
"M pompon- lea tine-
'
sboes-+wO handed
CJusfrJan
dagger- }
Dufch-
/5"70
1581
lansquenet w'fh two-canoed s*oYd-8tolO .ee+

1
long-cufrass^d c^sses-cabasse wi'+h plumes- 5u "+ of rie a v u c
slashed Venetian*' brafd trtrT)^5^^! x'W
"
leather DOCK'S'
breasf
pdn-tflloor-
neck a "d wr
ruffs- lea
shoes-bo
jacked le
-Tobacco
on cord-'
Dut'C-n|5T0I
v^
pi
/""
buffco^f winged "d

braided WOfi over
uniform jdcke+'wh't
I'nen falling band'
IT+bCeiHur
breeches with gold,,

braided garners
l^n't hose'
leather shoesri
bbon garters'
beaver hat
with braid
Ari
d plumes-fj
Dutch
Soldfe*'
I60ff
buffcodt
worn over winged
sleeveless
uniform jacket"emtroldered I'nCh

b\\'mg bonded
cuffs'Kni-f hose-
eatber hoofs
wifh spurs
beaver ha-f wHn
plumes-bandoleer
with powder flasks'
musket-forked rest'
5VV<>rd-Cngl ish
muskefeer1620
J
blue cassock
|1nn sh rT
i
w i+h
w Hh
gold braid
-railing
band
*d bu-froW
q nd
puffed
sleeves-bd Idr-'c
ered and
?d -red
garters
stockings'
beaver
white
fri
ng e
wh'+e
plumes"d
>;+; S b
off'cer-
mus
teteer
m madder red
unrform-edssock
with shoulder knots-leather bdldric id

a
'linen shirt-lace nd ribbon
cravat -breeches with
ribbon "cannon skni-f"
hose-leather
shoes 'beaver hat

with rosette- fabric
bandoleer-
French
1667
Wof dim a fepresumably canvas-all Oâtf With
On'csJrs uniform
for
grenadier-red uniform 1'ned w'th>
17^ Century
red r'bbonj-wbrhi
Ifnfcr
wf+b fur band-red
shirf-lace
""d ribbon
-FriVqed
errv
yellow -yellow bra'd with Hilled ends

o'lt bu-ffons -redcap
jaDcf-
^M
bro'dered
baldr'c- black
shoes with gra^
*V^4i
stockings -black
leainer shoes-uelloiv
gor+ers-yeMovv woolen
scarf leather
behr ""M
ta Id rc-- pouch
-for
des-dagger
bow ^nofscane
hatcbefBrTfrsh
Ib80
'rvfanfrq
-\f
unlform-
ark i)lue ca ssock-cufts

wais-fcToa+breechifSj
s-fockings a,1 d bcldrTc
red cassock-gray
breeches-gray
or^ngeyellow
sfock "rigs -woolen

scarf- black
her shoesbearskin cap with
in
bra'd -edged front

leather belts "M
shoes-fabric
bandoleer-sword'
black beaver
Cocked h.d+'
black leather
mu s kef-
grenade poach
powder riommusket- sword
Da tcb-
daqqey
&nglih-
=y
TvV.
MILITARY
THE I8TH CENTURY

CHAPTER THREE
FROM
1700
ON,
the
modern
military uniform began to develop in the large
European standing armies whereby each country's
regiments became distinguishable one from the other.

civilian
as,
mode
and each army's
soldiers
The
of the day with the color of the coat the
style
followed the
predominant feature
for instance, the redcoat of the Britishers. Certain colors used in facings,
collar
and waistcoat became regimental
in gold
and
silver,
embroidered motifs
distinctions while
the gorget, sword and sash indicated officers' rank.
Of
French origin were the epaulettes introduced in 1759, an ornamental insignia

of officers'
rank copied by other armies. Epaulettes
also
proved a source of
protection against sword cuts and held shoulder belts in place.
The French regiments were

with
brilliant colors
dressed in various shades of
which designated the
different
brown accented
regiments and added
greatly to the military display. Officers continued to take the liberty of wear-
An
ing mourning, a privilege accorded the French Guard.
officer
seen leading his troops, he in all-black except for the gorget

neck.
When
might be
hung round
his
the soldier early in the period buttoned back the skirts of his
coat to permit
freedom of
fashion which
would
action,
he
little
knew he was
survive to this day in civilian
life
creating a men's
in the full dress
tail coat.
All military units in the European armies were affected by the successes
of the Prussians in the Silesian Wars, 1740 to 1744,
1756 to 1763.
War
in America.
cavalry dress
the
The
was the European phase
The uniforms
when
Hungarian
style
latter
and the Seven Years' War,

of the
French and Indian
of the Hussars, originally Turkish, influenced
Frederick the Great employed a regiment of auxiliaries,
light horse troops.
Their uniform was a handsome, storybook
which ignored comfort completely.

41
It
was
a tight tunic or jacket with

horizontal rows of braid
from neck
and
cuffs, tight breeches, high, fitted boots
der.
The dashing costume appeared
original right
up
into units to
tury
much
which the provincial
laxity existed in
shoul-
characteristic variations of the
worn even
in our
own
Civil
War.
of mercenaries were eventually converted

militia
was added.
Till the eighteenth cen-
uniforms with the exception of those of the Prus-
with the Prussian
soldiers' dress
tactics.
visitor to Prussia
tom which has never been

Unity reigns in
In England
it
came here
becoming the model
drill
practiced by any troops; to refurnish
all details
army even
in the
was every man's duty
to protect
and
fight
regiments of soldiers, each
for training
and
writing in 1729 says, "The Prussians have a cus-
of maintaining a soldier in service
cities
dolman hanging from one
many
in
collar, fur
England, France, Germany and Austria adopted a more practical
sians.
year.
to the nineteenth century,
The European standing armies
high stock
to waist in front,
city
had
be.
its
to the shoe buckles."
arms or
and with such
need
if
to bear
anew each
bear the expense
else
background the
colonists
Although the Colonies did not have
provincial militia while a
few larger
were equipped with independent companies. With the exception of the
Quakers and the Dutch of Manhattan there were always militiamen ready
for an emergency.
War when
it
Men and money
broke in 1754 and
it
were needed for the French and Indian
was up
to the Colonies to furnish
them.
This war proved to be the training ground for the American leaders in the
War
for Independence.
Most
of the militia troops consisted of farmers
American uniform, except
and woodsmen and the
real
was
that
in the case of the independent companies,
of the hunter and the frontiersman.
It
was upon Washington's own recom-
mendation that hunting dress was adopted in the campaign against the
dians in Virginia and again at the start of the Revolution.
consisted of breeches, tunic or shirt, shoes
buckskin,
all
brown
in color.
Brown
and
gaiters
The
and
In-
soldier's outfit
a hat of cloth or
evolved as the military color of the
Colonies as ordered by the Continental Congress because the dye was to be
had on every farm and therefore was
easily obtained
by the cloth manufac-
turers in the cities.
The hunting
It
was
front,
shirt,
really a tunic
commonly known
as the
wamus, was pure Americana.
which slipped on over the head
or, if
open down the
had no buttons but was thong-laced or held closed by the
42
leather belt.
MILITARY THE 18TH CENTURY

warm and
Light,
wind-resistant, the
beautifully tanned buckskin.

skin," elkskin
Other
Much
which was tanned
summer
and milky white.
to a soft, clothlike texture
called
self-fringe but the
were dyed blue and trimmed with a yellow-dyed fringe sewn
the garment.
The
that
woolen
overalls for winter
and linen
it,
worn by
stuffed with
the frontiersman
who
moss or buffalo hair was the footpiece
His headgear comprised the slouch
sported an animal's
some time but
colonial "hunter"
The
tail
it
hat, a
brimmed
hanging
was noted
in back.
The
rifle
felt,
and for cold
that the deadly
was disconcerting indeed
The cap
had been
aim
invariably
in use in
Europe
of the unmilitary-looking
to the well-drilled foreign soldier.
brown and white and
to assess the
men
for the cost, as
England, by keeping back a piece of their pay. But
that
in the virgin
Continental Congress in 1775 decided definitely upon the uniform
colors of
cloth.
life
spent the greater part of his
weather, the fur cap of coonskin, bear, fox or squirrel.
for
we
was the favored work dress of both army and navy.
The Indian moccasin
forest.
for
be substituted for buckskin breeches. This was an order to most men's
liking because by 1780, one reads that overalls of "ticken" or ticking, as

call
to
outer seams of breeches were also fringed.
was directed
it
of
were made of "white deer-
dressier shirts
were ornamented with cut
linsey-woolsey. All skin tunics
In 1779
made
generally
were of coarse homespun linen or a wool-linen mixture
shirts
fabric shirts
wamus was most
it
was
was done
difficult to
in
procure
Eventually companies were clothed in whatever color was available and
meant mixed
colors in the
same company. Sometimes the
patriots
upon enemy uniforms which they appropriated and dyed brown
came
or blue.
But sometimes there was no time for recoloring the garments and serious
errors occurred
between friend and foe on the
What uniforms
existed
were those worn by
companies, of varied color and British in
which did not materialize
battlefield.
state militias
style.
final
choice of color,
until the war's end, resolved into blue coat
red facings and buckskin breeches.
The ribbon
rosette
ning of the century and usually black, became

military world. After 1775
The
and independent
it
was shaped
worn from
officer's
into a small cockade of pleated
cockade was changed
signifying the expected union of the
the begin-
general insignia in the
mark
of a
with white
relief
ribbon and leather and was added as a permanent identifying

regiment. In 1780 the
to black
American and French Armies.
43
with

Washington upon taking command ordered
selves
with cockades in their hats
that officers furnish them-
The
to indicate rank.
colors
were
to
be as
follows: red or pink for field officers: yellow or buff for captains: green for
on the
subalterns: an epaulette or strip of red cloth
the sergeant: the
same mark
right shoulder to denote
in green for the corporal. Further, a light blue
ribbon across the breast between coat and waistcoat to denote the commander-
same manner
in-chief; in the
same
the
a pink ribbon for
for an aide-de-camp. After the order
major and brigadier general;
was
issued,
Washington changed
the major general's ribbon to purple.
However, the Continental
money and no
Army had no
credit and, even
uniforms, Congress having
funds were available, clothing and arms
if
could not be imported, the ports of the country being closed.
not only clothes but arms, ammunition, tents and food.
The French
1778 were a period of real suffering.

Lafayette furnished a French army,
fleet
The army
The
due
to hitches
Paris, the
Alliance and the Marquis de
and arms.
number, were
fact the greater
a realized fact
sadly-mended
in
outfits
veritable rags. In 1783 in the absence of red cloth for trimming, orders
issued that the blue coats be faced

gilt
late as
1783
when
the cloth
were
had not
hilt.
yet arrived
from Europe, Wash-
ington ordered the soldiers "to turn and repair their coats". Apropos of
operation, one
that all
must keep
in
mind
that the
sewing machine did not
wearing apparel was handmade and therefore not too
take apart, wash, repair and put together again.
As
was the procedure followed
garment
of
in cleaning an outer
French cleaning establishments
Our
treaty with
England
late in the
after the
war
among
in the last years of the century so that

in 1796, the black
and
and lined with white and that white or
be used for epaulette, buttons and sword
As
suits
officers'
uniforms being a copy of the French military. But
and drawbacks the uniforms did not become
and many men, in
lacked
years 1777 to
Cloth for uniforms was ordered from France and some
were made in
little
and white cockade
exist
this
and
difficult
to
a matter of fact, that
until the arrival
nineteenth century.
created difficulties with France

various changes of the uniforms
significant of
French and American
friendship was replaced by an eagle. Also in 1796 the infantry finally received
their red facings
When
and the
officers their
black top boots instead of cloth gaiters.
sea fighting with the French, our
44
former
allies,
took place in the

last
men
decade of the century, Congress raised an army of ten thousand
and Washington was again made commander of the army. Though the
French attacked our merchantmen, the American
officers
French uniform of blue with buff trimmings, cocked
favored the
still
with
hats, boots lined
red morocco, tight pantaloons, red sashes and black silk or velvet stocks.
wore
troops
The
stocks of black leather.
In general, the cocked hat
was the masculine headdress
century and the hat of the military world. In civilian
of the eighteenth
became
life it
mark
of gentility, a sign of professional and social rank as contrasted with the
lower
who wore
classes
gentleman and the army
from
was ornamented with gold and

and plumes. Gold and
on one
Although
new
had
passed,
of the century, both military
Swiss soldier's hat, a large comfortable piece that

really
spout-like
Androsmane;
to
the
simplified spelling,
hiiller.
An
became
now
confined
civilian,
was the
use
its
crease
center
in
To
front.
after the
English note of 1753
the
army
into the early nineteenth century.
with
flaps
higher than the crown.
it
famed Austrian
hat
calls the
Then
The
down on
flap,
English and the Americans
named
and
well
set
was a bicorne with high front and back
being the
cost
livery.
The most popular hat
It
its
disappeared
galloon was invented with the metal worked
side only, the fad for such decoration
uniforms and
of the
silver galloon,
silver
when
civilian dress in the first quarter of the century
prohibitive.
to
officer
lace, ostrich, fringe
ribbon cockades,
The headpiece
their slouched hat uncocked.
the highest point
French
it
was the
was Kevenhuller
of
marshal, Kheven-
field
demode but
there
the head.
it
lasted in the
was the "Ramillies cock"
sharply turned-up back flap
was
higher than the front flap which was scalloped out in the center creating
a tricorne.
The
bicorne, supplanting the tricorne of the 1790's,
phase of the cocked hat.
under arm
literally, a
to
It
folded
flat
so that in civilian life
save disarranging the wig,
hat to carry under the arm.
It
thus
its
ended up
it
was another
could be carried
name "chapeau
as the
bras,"
ceremonial dress
hat of ranking officers of the American, British and French navies, remaining
so to the twentieth century.
distinctive piece of
the 1760's. This
headgear was adopted by the British Dragoons in
was the "jockey
leather with a roach of
stiff
cap," a small helmet of black japanned boiled
horsehair
mounted on
45
the
crown from back
to

front. It
1780's.
is
to
new American Army from
be seen in some pictures of the
many
Constantly changing were the
The
military bonnets of this period.
designs and colors of the
was
iron-skull
worn under
still
the
many
the felt
hat in battle. In 1730, the Prussian Grenadier found the large cocked hat a
when throwing hand grenades with
great inconvenience
The
in back.
hat with
its
his
long
rifle
hung
protruding corners was easily knocked off the head
by the musket. This prompted the Prussian emperor
to substitute the
Hun-
garian shako, a sugar-loaf hat with high, pointed metal plate, the design so
American Revolution."
familiar to us in our andirons of the "Hessians of the
To
more martial
give the hat a
The
king had
air the
a covering of bearskin added.
Army where
hat was popular in the French
was introduced by the
it
German
mercenaries and worn by the horse grenadiers.
wore
miter-shaped cap but of cloth or velvet with the arms and supporters
this
on the frontal embroidered in gold,

it
The
British also
and colors and very handsome
silver
was.
The
bagwig of black
soldier's
which was concealed under

world the black
bow. This
style
taffeta
was drawn
same
a rosette of the
tight
by
a string
fabric. In the fashionable
ends were brought round to the front and tied into a
tie
was named
silk tie in civilian life.
two, spirally
gummed
The
wound with
or sailor was often false,
and was the forerunner of the black
"solitaire"
"pigtail"
was
black ribbon.
made
a tightly braided queue,
The
whip
pigtail or
sometimes
of the soldier
of black leather or chamois with a tuft or
"paintbrush" at the end and was cleaned and polished along with his boots.
Late in the century
The end
military.
The
it
its
in
civilian
life
of the pigtail in the United States
but retained by the
Army came
Ramillies wig, also a favorite in the army, got
Battle of Ramillies in
French.
was discarded
An
name
Belgium
in 1706, fought
English victory under the
to the fashions of
Duke
its
in 1808.
name from
the
between the British and the
of Marlborough, the battle gave
both sexes. In the Ramillies the pigtail was tied
top and bottom with black ribbon and sometimes the braid was looped under
and
tied.
Pure white powder appeared in 1703 and consisted of pulverized
starch or flour. Curled

stores of tallow
and
and powdered hair
flour, a
pound
in the
American Army required
of flour being each man's ration per week.
Veterans continued to powder long after the fashion had passed.

ing of his wig was most important in a soldier's
46
life
The
dress-
and often when there

were too few barbers,
whole regiment of
men would
tie
each other's wigs.
Natural hair had begun to appear in the mid-century, dressed in the
young men dispensing with the bag
black silk bag with ribbon bowknot,

as
soon
grew
as they
ribbon-tied queue during the
growing
stage
and
the
if
two back waist buttons
The English
sailor
as the point at
wore
which
and looking
flat
appeared the shape
required extra
known
like
its
whip.
cocked hat which was

crown, the
sides tacked to the
an apple-pasty." In the
'seventies first
round hat with high crown
as the sailor, a hard,
and narrow brim and made of varnished or japanned

it
tail
to terminate the
a jaunty version of the
described in a note of 1762 as "a hat with
century,
wore the
officers also
was added. French and German regulations designated the
length, false hair
whole pressed
Army
a sufficient length of hair.
Late in the
leather.
became summer regulation for the crew. The English
hat the "boater" and to counteract the softening effects of the

phere, the sailor took to varnishing the straw.
Of
damp
nautical origin
of "sennit straw" for the shellacked sailor deriving
from
called the
is
atmos-
the
name
seven-knit, a tech-
nique of rope-plaiting which the plaited straw resembled.
One
finds the sailor of the eighteenth century
wearing loose trousers or
with the short, boxy jacket over a
shorter, petticoat breeches
full shirt
sometimes, the large cocked hat atop his tied handkerchief. In
he presents the familiar and picturesque costume of the

Distinction by uniform
was not
and
this getup,
pirate.
officially established
between army and
navy among European powers until 1748 when a marine dress originated
in
England
setting the pattern henceforth for other naval powers.
were prescribed
as blue
and white,
and embroidery in gold and
thus, the
The
colors
term "navy blue" with braids
silver for top officers.
White
linen
became the
uniform for tropical wear.

In 1775, eight months before the Declaration of Independence,
it
that the British
West
Indies
were massing
stores of
when
its
was
settled
marine corps
in the
to take
about a uniform until 1798
navy department was organized and the Marine Corps
a separate
placed under
the
ammunition and powder
upon which news the Americans created
care of such matters. But nothing
rumor had
command. Green, oddly enough, was
Army and Navy and
accordingly the Continental Marines'
consisted of a grass green coat with red facings

waistcoat, breeches
the uniform color of
and knitted hose. This dress

47
and white
lasted to 1804.
first
costume
lining,
white

After the close of the
the century
to
it
War
became apparent
for
Independence and in the
last
decade of
that our country also needed a fighting unit
guard the Indian frontiers and while the hunter's garb could not be
bettered for such service, the uniform of basic blue

for dress
and parade.
48
was the one
settled
upon
kiussjr uniform copied

from -the Hungarian regi'mantes
striped s'lk 505nchausses drawn over
wb'+c breeches a
leather boors
Fre nch
8-fh
Cenfur^
Sabretache- furred
cap qhd ani'mal

peb'sse'
5ki"n
earned rnusk^,
two
a
"d
p'stbls
sobre-
I72I
soldier
uniform
brown
"d
ir
gray
n d facings
lining
of
brl 1*0 nt1
col or
distinguish
regiments- leather
belt-s-sdbrefacherhvju'ssesover breebes
-to
;
!
fcorne
-)usket"
w^tfi
cockade
"d sword'
_
c;ra.na'er-
w'th red brai
buttons-red
coattafls t
cotton spa
\e.ai her be
grenade po
krute-
muskeifur cap
wfth
^R
bvass
jp;
sold'e-r^blue
uniform
a
1d
-frim-blue breeches
light colored vest'
Cotf-Hai!s -jl/rned Up'
eatber belts ""d pouctv
cot-ton spatterdashes'
musket a "4 sabre
black -rnCorne
with sflveredge
with red fac"na5
cockade-
IT66
""d
pompoi>'^4\
^T^
Br'+ish
8+h Cenfury
-t'sh -tar
id
asriore-l7H-4
-'
white ensemble
flatcocked hat
ed
oes-
te
ir braided
d iW turned
ha
under
cap
rnaiine.-
led co^t-blue-'
collar-green
cuffs -white belt'
blue a id white
sfri
E
spatterdashes'
block leather shoes
a id pouches-green
clofn cap with
embroldery-
mu5ke+-
Hessian
'grenadier-qreen
coo+, cuffs "'W
ining-white mctd
red cloth c
"db
buttons-cod fta* Is
turned up- buff
colored waistcoat
an d breeches-white
coattalls turned
aaltets^blackshoes-
af
>d
ve<st
il
aid-blue
cuffs
up- leather beltabuttored
brown
fur
cap
with metal Ronfal

braided hair tacked
SBotterddsbes^
black hat,poJch
d shoes-sword,
under cap
"n
in
back'
native of Hesse, Seimatv}
miiiket "Id
**4 subject of the
baônet'--
- Is
.V
British
gorges
LonTinenfal Utmu
\7J5-l800
rif
Idmîn
in
elk skin
hun+ ng costume
be o ws^ black -felt
ât-black sft>ck
'fd r
elkski'n
overalls'
ledHer
shoes-'
iT77
skirt or
warnuS
fcreekeso*
uckskin-shir-r
dyed brown
sei t fringe
sh?rf held closed
by belt-block felt
-tricorn* -pKj-fa"
ue-ueWeotJier
bus kins-knit
hose-mnSketiMuone+'knlfe
powder horhcar+ridge
bo*'
1775
emdn In buckskin
wa rnois a d overalls'
if
selff ringed -fu o'c
heed of neck
w*-th
round neck raccoon cap with
-tied
-fa'l^moccas'hSle-powde r honr
r'-f
caAr'tdê box
career,
d axe
ritlemanhîn-t-rn^
ou+-f f+ of ^
ranger-
Tin
jse
by -the whole
army-buckskin
dmed nomespjo
or
gamers a M
moeeasfns'
whr-he 5h'rt with
black stock'
Title
-powder horn
CXx^w'dqe bo<
canreer>-axe
VV
I,
CorvKnen'-tal Ovcny
1775^ igoo
iDTnute âr,
ty p'cal Civi
ih
lictn
hamespun outfit,
usually brownwhf+e shirt of flaxwith falling bandbuc U ski'n
wafatcoaf- Knit
hose-leu+her
shoes-black
fricoTne
gun
*n d
swordIJ7T
urntorrn oT to
commands! ir
blue cout w
yellow epauUftesbuff wdi'sfcout,
breecbes .facings,
l"nin<j'b
a,,
ct
but+ons-
wh>'te lingerie
stock, ""d jabotMack tnCsmfi
Hck
cockade
button'
black leather
boots with spurs
h
silk
sfl v<3r
sr
CUvfllrumdn
jl
Suard -whife co
with sky blue
facing seining
waistcoat- w hi
be Its- white bu
officer ?n
blue coatw'fk.
white facing'
white buttonswhite waistcoat"
with frin^ *><
-}urned-up cou
sash'
buckskin bree
yoryct- black
stock with burnej
Seneral U)<35f>*ng
Souvaroif boo
japanned 'ea
jockey Cop- red
band "nd bu
s'lver
down bandblack Wcorne

black cockade-buckskin breech
e_itkor buskins
fa'l-black
Istock-iubot
^T
TVv/j 177 s
"
->r
foe Re*
.
t*
Coh+men-Tal Cirmy-i77a "'800

-1
Uniforn wK'chwersnoi'rsoirzed until

i-fh
ockdde ot blcc
silked white
leather- cjenotmg
French tllliunce
i7<35''Wu<J
white-
facings
nd buttons whi-'h
fl
waned according to
xeq rn ent- Dew To rk
ar
D?w7eTsey faced
nfleman-b ue or
with buff-black bljck Coat-red
><t
TrTcorne-piqtail
cjueue - cross
belts-black
leather halt
gq iters "''dsrioe.sgray knithose
rifle
-bayonet'
f</icing.s
q id
cu^S-.
L/ellow bu+tons
""d bu+tonko)eS"
bitfc
v>
wa'stcojt
breeches, hose
-l^d beH"-plack
buskins-
cartridge box'
canteen Vuf fled shirt
black stock-
bbek
japanned
leather btlinl&"
with ostrich
plumes 'Crossed
Swords'5 ^ quos
Qn d X'berty* on
"Frontal 'rifle-
bauonefCarTridge box
antee n^
178O
rifleman "n^reen dyed

buckskin or homespun
ba ndc*4 with f u r'
e shirt wi th
btack stock'
tber shoes
'
rtriJ_|eboK'
der horn'
fe
-canteen'
I7?6
trooper
Cciv/alryman
brown
coat with
life
facing
waistcoat
breaches^
button* 0r>d
belt-'eathei
guard boots
flr
>d spurscoatt^'ls
turned up'
iapanned
leather -jockey
Cap with
silver band
4h d buck's
tail -rifle
cartridge
box- sword
Iff*
.*>
(\v'\f
Contmenf <9l Urmu
Co^wQ nder
of Rogers-'
red coa^w-rh
buff facings
0ri
d walstco^f'
coaftdWs infantry
famed] up-blacW offi'cer
stock 'white carrying
skirt collar-
espontoon
beaded leather blue coat'

el+wT+h falls' whi+e faci
eatherajoves-' waistcoat,
panned leather
ie+ w'-th feather
beaded band'
buckskin bree^he5
a nu
^
J
breeches a
sword be If'
whffe buff on
Wi+h blue
loops'
fringed. Jndlan
wh
laqqin^s-moccdSinS' ^hirt^ w'

stock- bio
5 word-kn?fe'fnna,i;d
carfr'dqe pouch' kevenhuller
powder horn' baf'bkck
'**rrv
DU5kfriS'le
iffO'S
skoes^
lT8o's
qunner with n/ef swajb forclecinrnggut

after each fire -blue or black coat-
red factngS'tjelloW
^
buttons q "d laops'

white stock, sbTrt
^ waistcoaT-bU
fnped white ticken
overalls^black
fricOrne'bluck
lea-rher shoes'
a
brown bell "d
rope +0 move
gun- white
cross
be"lts
Coa ffai
filmed Up'
I
T79
Xufaêffe:
corps of
.fight Jnfanfuj
blue coat'
hi'te ftfcma.5
breeche?,crcss
q *d button
belts
coaftails turned
up * f<3panned
l
e aj-her
jockey
Cap w'th
boTjchjir
roach ""d fur
bund-black
Spafrei .((ifbee or
full
<Jai1f rb
h'fle-
IT8
2.
~>'J
Cirmy
Con-Kneniol
17^5^1800
tficer.'gree
black feci ngS'
-fumed -up
black-Ljellow
waistcoat
y-ff
oons-bUck
tock-whi+ehirt-whi'te
belt-black
ned leather
mef-green
ume
-black
horsehair
+a|-guard
boots"
-5a ber'79*3
uniform-
national
infantrtj captain-coat" q a
blue
pan+a|oons-red
a
facings "d -fringed

sa%b-whfte lA/alstcoat
a
"d belt- black stock-,
red Austrian knoteSj
5eams
01
pantaloons
black leather boots(Ku6sar,5ou\/avofr or
Hessian)-lined with
red in orocco showing
at taps- black felt
b'come-red plumeblack cockade-
Vn^
foot'ûard
in
bearskin bonnetmetal -frontal -red

leather pompon-hair
dressed In pigtail ;|ueue
J
"d powdered-l115"--il85-
private
in
regular uniform-!
blue coat
flri
pantaloons
red -Tac'ngs
4
"d leg stripes-
white waistcoat,
lining ""d belUjoc keg cap with
bearskin roach,
wbf-reband n d pluroe
cockadebogonef belt-
blue
'oTfiCerS
black felr
cocked hat'
edge J wltn w hife-
cockaae-W^k
pompon -powdered
rlbbon
hair Jressed ;ncluD-
1780's
general -black felt

cocked hat- trend
tovsjrd blcorner'bbon cockade -
owdered bqlr-ljSOS
Con-Knenfal Oavq
776-1800
dress unitormof
Jokn Pa a JoneS
Commodore of
United States Oavyblje coa t
faced a "d lined
I
with white SdtiO'

enameled buttons'
gold epaulettes'
blockcocked hot with

gold edge-MocK
cockade-wh'te silk
hose 'black shoes'
gilt buckles
sword'
sailor or Umericcin
blue clo+h or block
tarred leather
jacket *d hat
pantaloons of
comrhon seairn^nblue ] jckeb of

heavy cloth or jap^rined
leather' loose open
pan \a loons of
Coarse homespun
homespun or
or ffcken-
tfc
kn'f+ed sir' pea

sbfrf' black
wai'st'coaf over white
neckerchiefleather
b^lr-
sa brtf '
17^8
ken-k^fed
shir-h-
black stock
of leather or cloth
black fe|t
ru-r
w+h plume'ha'r
in pi'gfa'l queueleather bullet
pouch a "d boohp'sbol, Knife
"(
1116
sabre-
~A
MILITARY
THE I9TH CENTURY

CHAPTER FOUR
THE NEW CENTURY
the
army uniform
witnessed the final display of sartorial splendor in
of the Napoleonic
idea of warfare because heretofore
Wars. Change was
when
to affect the
whole
the warrior attacked with knife,
lance or sword, his conspicuous costume mattered
little
since actual
combat
occurred at close range. But as firearms gained power in striking distance,

it
was found
that less brilliant dress in neutral colors could be a safeguard
against the enemy's marksmanship.
In 1801 the hair was ordered cut short and whiskers, which had appeared,
were not
to be
below the ear
chapeau bras or bicorne for
The cocked
lobe.
hat had given
way
to the
the troops wearing the small helmet of
officers,
japanned, boiled leather with a roach of
stiff
horsehair, copied
from the
"jockey cap" of the British.
The Marine uniform

claw-hammer
adopted by the
coatee
of 1804
changed
to a
more
which was copied from the
Army and
the Navy.
distinctive dress in the
basic
French model
The wearers became known
necks" because they wore a black leather stock while the
as
as "Leather-
officers
wore one
of black silk.
In the
units took
War
of 1812, our second
on the
war with Great
short-tailed coat or coatee
Britain, the
newer army
and the shako, while the veterans
Revolution retained the long-tailed coat and chapeau bras as was
of the
their prerogative. Soldiers' dress of the period
coincided with that of the
fashionable world in coatee, skintight trousers and high-waist shaping the
form
as
much
as possible.
Even the
tall
shako was not unlike that of the
lady of the Empire mode. There was also an undress coat and a full dress
jacket in the Hussar style.
for
As
knee breeches fastened with
of 1813, the order for social occasions called

gilt
buckles instead of strings.
57
Woolen
cloth

was used for winter and nankeen for summer and
the color gray
men
color, the
in this period that
appeared in the coats and trousers of the riflemen. In 1816
first
Academy
the United States
was
it
at
West
uniform
Point, too, adopted gray as the
having worn the blue coat prescribed in 1814.
In seamen's dress the sailor collar and the black neckerchief were practical
variations
on the gentlemen's neck mode of wide
The wider
black silk cravat.
powdered hair and

band when
tarred leather queue, the neckerchief also serving as sweat
days had time on their hands which
many
making gadgets and even sewing. Since

not become
dark blue jacket from the
collar protected the
round the head in true fisherman fashion.
tied
and muffled
collar points
official until 1866,
Sailors in olden
with handwork, carving,
filled
regulation stripes and insignia did
the stars and eagles that appeared before that
date were embroidered by the wearer.
The campaign uniform
that
marched
War
to the
with Mexico (1846
1848), a blue coatee with blue or gray trousers,
was
comfort and adaptability to climate and
Thought was being given
freedom of movement and the
terrain.
a definite stride
appearance must have been an easier headcovering to wear in active

in 1847 for all
military dress took
on
new
pompon
worn
also
or plume,
to
cap while not of special martial
soft forage
Chevrons appeared
toward
non-commissioned
officers.
service.
After the war
look in the low, tapered shako topped by a
by the British
Army and
called
by them, the
"Albert Shako."
general order in 1852 changed the trousers from Saxony blue to sky
blue because quantities of pale blue cloth were available to the

at
an
attractively
At
epaulettes.
the
cocked on one
low
ostrich
plumage.
of the
new
little
scales
were substituted for
attention
was of dark blue

rifles
had been given
itself
Although every
were not uniformed
in black felt
tunic or coat, really a frock coat
for horseback but the pleats
North found
Secession.
was worn by the mounted
good pattern
As very
shoulder
fastened with an eagle and decorated with gold cord
of French origin in the 1850's,

full skirt. It
Brass
same time appeared the jaunty slouch hat
side,
and small black
price.
Government
in
1861
village,
in prescribed
and known
army
ill-prepared
town and
army
color
gray blue trousers and a dark blue kepi.

58
as the "chasseur."
were eliminated
to
The
city
body with
cloth, a fitted
in 1858.
Army
War of
dress, the Federal
for battle
had
its
which meant
Confederates,
in
the
militia,
the units
a dark blue coat,
who
also lacked

uniforms, decided upon gray as their color in trousers, double-breasted tunic
and gray
hat with a broad brim. European models were copied by both
felt
North and the South and thus
the
it
happened
was chosen and worn by many volunteers on both
dress
sides.
The
picturesque
popularized by the French successes in Italy comprised a short, dark
outfit
blue jacket,
baggy breeches and
full,
Even the
sash.
Zouave
that the colorful
Italian Bersaglieri
as well as the belted, red
wide sky-blue or red crushed
either a
had an influence upon the American uniform
smock worn by
the Great Liberator Guiseppe
Garibaldi.
amount
certain
of laxity in dress
was permitted among the volunteer
western units where the preference for headgear was for the
soldiers of the
slouch hat instead of the forage cap.
It is
well-known masculine
hat and in the volunteer units, those
men
trait to
be
fond of an old
felt
that peculiarity
were permitted to wear what they pleased which usually
meant the slouch
hat.
possessed of
Another idea which originated among the Northerners
and quickly spread, was the small patch of color or insignia device which
men
fastened to their hats or caps. Also to be seen were hats of
and shapes including summer

fatigue or field dress,
blue flannel,
In the
use
worn
straws.
among them
belted in
smock
Such pieces of
a good-looking tunic or jacket of dark
fashion.
many new and important mechanical
shoes in America, England, France and
made
for soldiers' shoes.
called the
McKay
shoes,
Germany.
there were
The army brogans
and "crooked
so popular that they
still
War
and the tremendous
or "fadeaways" as the troops
shoes," first
worn by
were eagerly adopted by
campaign along modern

to
neither
the fighting
civilians.
in 1851
was
a primitive piece of
but a wizard in accomplishment as compared with hand sewing.
machine
is
But
only two widths to be had.
The sewing machine patented
tising
into
A severe test of the machine-
proved amazingly durable. "Straights," that
rights nor lefts, disappeared
men, became
came
inventions for the manufacture of
shoe occurred with the outbreak of the Civil
demand
came under
attire
half of the century in this age of machinery there
first
colors
all
women
lines
was necessary
to
mechanism
No
adver-
introduce the
new
throughout the land. With the need of thousands and
thousands of uniforms the Government purchased the hand-cranked machines
and loaned them
free to
sewing
the outfits as a patriotic duty.
circles
and anyone willing
The manufacturers with

59
their
to put together
newly acquired

knowledge of
and measurements prepared
sizes
returning soldier. Having
worn
vast stocks of clothes for the
machine-made uniform he knew the
the
advantage of machine-sewing over hand-stitched clothes and not having to
made
wait weeks for a suit to be
up. But he did insist that the creases be
would not
pressed out so that the suit
reveal
its
ready-made
After the war, epaulettes, sashes and the dressy, black
wear and shoulder knots
for general officers'
period was the white cork helmet
wood
tree
and
worn by
first
made from
the British
Army
were issued
to
the
dressy,
Very
in India.
it
in this
light in weight,
proved an insulation
summer wear with white
armies, United States included, took to copying the

cially
New
the pith of the Indian sponge-
French defeat
troops. After the
all
hat returned
felt
for other grades.
covered with white cotton and faced with green,

against the hot sun. In 1879, uniforms for
origin.
spiked helmet which hailed
at
trousers
Sedan, the western
German
originally
uniform, espe-
from Denmark
in 1850.
An
innovation in army dress of adjusting to climate was inaugurated by
the British in the Great Indian
Mutiny of 1857-8 when they clothed the
native troops in khaki, an Indian-made cloth of cotton, wool, worsted or
linen or combinations of these fibers.

field service
uniform though
Khaki was not
available
it is
when
and the regular army went
The term khaki
Hindu word
which was worn by
commanded by
became known
as
trousers
felt hat, called
campaign
all
to the point
a unit of expert
Colonel
"Rough Riders"
and leggings,
the
in their sports shirt with
of cotton,
Hindu word meaning

strip
wound
turned-down
and the broad-brimmed khaki
War
in
which the
British
wore
suit the climate
as well as clothe the wearer.
the last years of the century.
woolen
horsemen and marksmen
world that the uniform must
Puttees, also a first of this era,
was the cavalry canvas
hat.
to the military
and must camouflage
broke out in 1898
Theodore Roosevelt. These men
In the following year, the South African
khaki proved
War
into the hot climate in the heavy, dark blue
organized and
collar,
to describe
signifying the color, dusty.
the Spanish-American
uniform suffering great discomfort. More

stable dress
come
has
They
were worn
Anglo-Indian
are of East Indian origin, the
a strip of cloth.
spirally
in the
from ankle
60
It
was
to knee.
Army
name
in
"patti,"
a legging consisting of a
r>/^-
United States Qrmcf

nineteenth Century
infanirymanblue coat a "d

breeches- red
facings an d
leg stripes-
yellow
buftons-
white lining,
cross bdts ^ n d
waistcoat-black
leather cap-
un'form of the
commander in
gold epau
cbief-
ler-t-es
with three starsblue Coat with
bearskin roach'
whi+e plurne black medallion
With eagle-
yellow buttons^
buff facings, collar,
cuff's Qh d breechev
guard
croppecf
boot's lined
natural hair-
red morocco, showing
brown gîters-
at tops- Kev/enhu||er
cacked black hat'
knqpsack
b/anketcan+een-riflerolled
whifa plume-powdered
Wr- black baa -white
glomes- sword-
I8o2.l8i0
infantrymen -blue coateered collar

wh'te
b Li-ftons
an
cuffs-
'
belts-wr
black cf
beaverwhite pc
medal IT
natural
brown
gaiters
black
shoes'
knapsac
canteen
rffle-
18)0-181
off fee r'
blue coatee
with wings 'blind
buttonholes êrring
bone design ^blue
I'ning-blach leafbeT
5ward belt worn over

red silk fringed,
sash-white bt-eeche:
black leather shako
with geld bra'd
a
"d eaq[& -white
plurne tipped redblack quard bootsSpurs a"d Sabre-'
1813 -1821
e,a DfoWes Urmy

nineteenth Gen-fury
>e gray
uniform 01
private-'
blue coatee
West
single-breasted
silver buttons
blind buttonhole S'llp-I
heavy
fatigue
bro/vn linen
Coafee-yellow
gilt bullet
buttons-
blacK. moroctisn
belt- black, silk
pantaloons
fep
d oaiters-
trie
Point Cadet-
ea\Uer stako^
cord Austrian knots-
4rouser5
side
with Turn. up tlapmetal Trontalleathe t braid,
*/.tn
seams
oratded
"d
under. strapsJefferson shoeSjanklehigh, three eyelets near
CV>rd **d rassel-
fnc -jps round black
buekstail pompon
haf, civilian stuje-
olack shoesknapsack- pouch-
cockade vsi'n
eayle-whife
qlOV^s- SWOrC^Si'lk
gilt
es nteen-rifle
"*d bayonef-
|8|6
8IH-
(l)es+ foint Cadet-'
gray cloth coatee

bkack braid
off ice*- blue
"d
u n 'tor m -gilt
buttons -gray
kerseymere panfoo^sj
gtH"
balle+pattons
embro'efered black
for winter- wbi-re linen
blind buttonholes
summer-red silk
fringed sash-black
Ujrher shako-l'r incl
tor
n lierr"np"bon
style -gilt
grau glovesJefferson shoes

bee description
above ,r""<jht-captain's chevronssabi-e'cut^d thrust

I8*.0
flr,
d
belt-over red silK
-fringed sashchapeau- bras-'
black cockade
epaulettes
plume-gilt trim-
with
gilt
white
eagle-
collar
tabs-
wh'te gbvesauard bootsSword 1820 s
"Lin '-fed Sttf+es Gvrruj

i n e-tec nth Ce ntu r 4
xp-
n
Ortille-ry
off 'carblue cloth
coatee
witriblacN\
im-gi|t butfons-;
gr<ag
kerseymere
trousersSword belt over
wrtilleru,
Coptain-
blue cloth coatee s'lver butlcns,

wings a,1 d chevrons-
red Silk sashblack stock-"Whte

collar labs-block
pleated, tails-
shako with gMt

trim q "d gellow
qraq trouserssilver belt over

red silk sash
pornpon-cjierskir
gauntlet's- singlegreatcoat-gil*
ffed oft right 5ide'

black shako'
buttons- tirstarrny
Silver trim ^nd.
breasted griy cloth
uellow pompon--
Overco<3-M8Z.8
gr^y
gloves-
MXo's
quartermaster generalblue uniform-gilt
-trim-
buff
Shjrt
lining-white collar
fabs'tfiauillertes-
black ^dgilf beltOver red silk fringed

sash -black. bicome
(chapeau bvas)^
l(jbr blue coa feathers
-black
coc-kadewhfte gloves-
"d ribbon
swordI
8 32.
if
U n.'ted
Sfotes Q-rn^
H n e +e e nth C n +U
dress
dreSS'
of a 'West Po'ntergray c'ofh coatee
n UJar-
fatigue
a "q
an d trousers'
gilt buffons
black blind
buttonholes
stripeS'black
in
trooper
short blu e
jacket- light
blue trousers'
yellow stripes n d
leafier belt a "d
cne vrons-wbite
belt-blue cap
pouch -red silk

sasb knot -white
wi+h block visor-
blanket rollknapsack'
onef belt-'
blackcap of
btfy
r'fle-bayonet-
tarn- o-sha nfer

influence -IS 30 's
)8fus
campaign dress-mapr general

blue unifcrm-S*l\/eT
buttons- frock coat-^
black velvet collar
ar,
d frouser
;uffs
seam welts'Shoulder
straps -+wo silver

stars- black leatKer
Sword, belt over
buffcolored sash-^
blue cloth forage
eap-blacK
Sword-
-"S^r-
18+o's
dragoon'
foot' or mounted'
short blue jaeketv
Ifaht b'ue trousers
with yellow stripesvNhffe belts- forage
cap
wi'th
bano|
'
yellow
privileges
of the dragoon-long
hair musâchios,
e a r rnrujS, neck ere
Wf
pistol* ""d
5,<ibre\
'-?
TV^
corbme-
i8tO's
United 5+ates Grmy

nineteenth Century
dragoon'
field officer
heuJ sloucn
black felt' CO
infantryman'
right sideorderly-sergeant'
by gflfeaglecoat
blue frock
with
Saxony
blue-
gilt
cord arou
crowri'three
trim d epaulettes'
ostrich plum
black leather sword
leff slde-bl
b<?|t averred
an
fringed sash' da rh
blue cross belts'

light blue trousers
jacket wftb
trTm- black
belts- light
trousers
w'th green welts'
black shako- Sa*ony
blue band d
850
-co.
pompon-gilt eq <3' e '
sword
'
|8f0
infantry
f'rstse'geai
blue-
cloth
chasseur coat'
summer
full
with
full shir
adjufan-t-
ilHnm-
Cadet-Unlt
'ae chevrons
IDilffary
Academy-
gray cloth coatee

with blaek- fjrald
6)ye.tran knots'
light
\i trousers-
black, leather
belt over re
gilt
buttons-black
chevrons
red fringed sash'
white sword belt'
black leathe
qh d yellow
boy'Cartr'dg
box In back'
whTte turn-iver collarblack shako With

coq ftfafhers- white
poiinpon'rifle
a
linen
15
hroasers-
JO's
shaKo'gilt eag
blue stripe a *
bayonet
swordS50'3
f^-rw
United States C^rrou

O'neteerith Centura
Qr+il'eTijmci
dark
blue
\ackzA
cl
stripe
edged wtn
gilt epaule
a
"d bu-H-ons
black lea+Her
w'tVi g'lt
bu
ghf blue tv OU5

eated in cb
with red sfr

pompo^'gill'
saber
vu'tri
leather srra
IS50'5
nto
r\fru
capfain-blci&
uhitorrr:
tr*m-uDstar>d.'ng
white collaf-ltght
v/v'+K g'lt
blue ground m
shoulder str-aps
""d trouser
welts 'bloc K
leather belt w'th
sv*
ord cham
0\er red frtoged
sasb^gilf
eagle buckle'
black felt
hat
cocked wifh
corporal'
3 Trt
blue cljtn
sack coat or
t6mc-+'urried"dowr)
Collar-
l860's
li'ghi"
blue frou
ers-
dark blue welt

blue Tor age ca
black learher
wai'sf" be
Cross
lb
belr-o-H)'
canvas- pojch
knapsack
blanker
a
roll
^d Canteen"
nfU
e-a^Je-
c>strfch
piurnes-
a "d
bo-i/one-)^
l8bo's
f=?
^v
ConfederafeXStates Qrt
1861-1865"
x/olonteer
amy cloth
frock coat-bla
bra\d blind
buttonholes
collar of vaujfn
lieutenary
color-
colonel-gray
buff color collar
li'cjht
Elu
clorb trouse
clo + b -frock coat-
wero aver
a h^
leather boots-
Cuffs-gilt bartons^
I'aM blue trousers-
earher
le aJ-her strap belt

an d boots-buckskin
gauntlets-olacK ^M^ra^
belt'
kepi-
kepUblae'Qrotj
overcoatSapre
eohnel a *a leader
of a band of
independent
ro'ders-' simple
dress ofgray cloth'
short jacket^
w'tb gf a y brcu'd!
CJustrfan Knot's'
leather boots
under frouserS'
felt bat wftb
ostrich piurme
rff
id silk
brigadier
commandetgraq cloth
coat-
frock
gilt
buttohS'oJIV
braid iQustrian
knots 'black
leatner belf'
light blue clotk
trousers oêr
leather boofS'grqy
3
"d
black kepi-
[bucksk'n gauntlets-
Sabre
)J|5^
^r*
band
m
Confederate
'bt cites Orrr\u
1861-1865
member of
Independent
companuara u uniiox
red tr'm
qn d shapes - whf fe
vs'-t-h
Canvas
belts'
red Kep'rifle
q,
>d
Sabre
farmer
volunteer'
gray uniformleather belts felt slouch
hat with
featbeTkriap-sacks-
canteenbuntinq knifenfle
Confedereife officer
pre'Civ/H War
uoiforrrr dark
blue frock coat
ari d tYousers'
black co||ar,cuff
"in
stripes a "d
shoulder straps-^,
blue kepi^
black leathe
be It Over red
tasseled
sash'
revolv^rsabre-
knapsack'
canteen
Zouave
fcrnr
brown
jacket with
kjni
red tr'm-
red
sh'rt'
red kepi w'

blue tassel'
blue a,1 d wh
striped rick!
pantaloonsblack leath
belt over
wrapped re
cloth sash
leather gal
blanket
roll
knapsack'
Canteerv
r.'fk.
hunting kni
Un'êd States Qrmu,

nineteenth Century
major geneva
blue uniform'
uniform
blue "id
black velvet
a
collar d cuffs
white stand -up
b|ue bolero
iacke-t vîtVi
i*
red ttpplique"*
brown
|||;
Russian leather (==
collar-
blue girdle "id
sash end edged

iTghf
bloe-black
fe*
le other straps-rea
(chechloj-blue fass
red
buttons-
Îlt
red-
&
belt,
svv'ord:
f^
steel scabbard-
an
d
straps-
boots
black fait
slouch bat with
bloomers-
white gaiters-
a'l-t
leather pouch
cord-
SbO's
""d knapsack'
cava
cavalry o^'ce-r
cam pa'gn dress
ip
the Plains-buck ski

-run'i-, self
-fringed
buckskin
gciun-tle
light"
blue breeche
black
-Felt
slouch
hat- black leathe

boots h d beltneckerchief -for
heavjj
use >n heavy
dust' rifle
^"d Car
beltlS TO' 5
y|
Iry
mtfn-
blue tunic
wth
yellow tr'no-l'ght
blue- trousers with
yellow stri'pes-sp'ked
b|ack,yel|ow- plumed,
black helmet of
Danish origin (.185-q)g'lt ornamentation
dfid
long gilt
cords aftached k
a
5lde ^cf ending
in
medallions
q nJ, -kassels In
neckblack leather
belfs'COrbfnesabre -
front at
870
Un'ied Spates Qrtr\y

nineteenth Cenôry
oadet-adjuha nt-
otmted States
iTirlr+arijflcrt
-full
demj-
dress
uniform- grqu do+hb^Horisturned-dcwn li'nen

gilt
collarblack
braid
knots
6?i(stir"ar>
d trouser
shoes'- black
Rams
campaign
dress 'blue
blouse
or
Sack
coat-a*lt buttons
fght blue breeches
flr,
uellow chevronsFringed red sasholacK shako with coq

leathers built up oT
tnre plumes- SwOrd
wi-th steel
scabba.rc|-
l88o's
with red
st"pe5-
black -felt slouch

hat- black leather
"
belt h d boots
leather gauntlets'
si*
-shot revolver,
sat)T2
carbne
"d
[r\gt
shown
ISTCs
full
dress pljs
unnorm-D ack
vskef collar ""
Summer
tat.gue
dress- fnfarrtrUj
quartermaster
sergeant-blue
blouse or sack coatITghfer blue
+ rousers --white
trouser stripes
a
"d chevronswhito belmetlgao'5
cuffs -white Ifnen

u' .-button
- D'^ck
nod gold striped
paulettes
+ wOrn jvr gold
sash fesseJcd 4n d
ried lettsiae
giltdiguTlettes
ed ""d looped as
rescribed-Sword i\oc\< chapeau bras'
ostrich a nd ribbon
tnpe -cockade of
a
gilt "d pleofed
black ribbon1880 'S,
I,
2-,
3 grecrfcoatS'dark blue Helton
clo+h Ailack silk

Gusrrfan knot's-
United States (Army
Dfnefeen+h Cen + ury
J a *d 3,lersgH,
be+ween
kne&^ n d snkle3, betted back'
Hênl'sfea man
in French
blue -cape
kolfvv/cuj
Ifnmg
orange'
length
+0 boo
top-
Sword
Sl"rap
enters
back
ven-f-
Rough
Hrde-T
âvalrcjrncin in
Uh^Kr carw/as
Stable dressf'rst uniform
of +he Tatrioas
regi'menf- carried
carbine ""4
sfv
shoo-i'eir-
898
-\r
miarnrofman'
Spanish dmeucan
War-dark blue
clo+h hin'c-breeches
French blue-khaki
-pelt slouch hot'
khaki,
canvas
Odl-ters-leather
bel-ts-cortndcjZ
\>e\t-rf\e-ba<jOnet-
knapsack
qfl d
blanket roll'
French
bN
ov/ercoa+'cape
'ned red flannel'
c?g<3
/S
Oll'oer wearin g
jkfi
new cap -dark blue

q *d gilf
-WTm-
dflrk blue
w'tti gl H"
-frock
coaf
braTd
Gustr\ar\ kno+%
q "d
shoulder
k no/l's ' +ro u 3 ef5

Frenck bluefrouSer crease worn
ffvs+
Dlj
"TW
a'mij
fn the
n'neKes-le other
belt-sabre 18^8
officers
United S+ates Oa\/u,

nineteenth Century
1-180?)
officer'
dress
un'tonr Witt>
k bicorneblue cloth
designs in lapels
navy blue a "d gilt
coatee wWh<juf'ack learner

'
t-blacksllk
black silk stocks-'

white lingerie s+ock'
stock -white sh'rtwhite waistcoat"'
wh'te skirt tabs'
watcb fob-ivo'te
cen-ter,pearl stickpin'
cloth pantaloons-
'.commodore
black leather
aj'eufenant-
hussar boo's-
3 'lieu tenant''
5 ibre
I8U
mormenavy owe pea ;jacket"wrute c/t1I pantaloonswh'te cvershir-k

wf+h black - sh>pe<4
collarblack si'lK
scarf- block leather
belt- hat 0? black

japanned shuw
ct leather
block sKcesT*f |e-bauonet'
I8IZ
jr
hoi-
iv^j + ner dre
w n?fe
cotton
un'faxm- blae
collar (A/'+h white
bra'd-black
necKerchi'ef'
black
japanned
straw hat- black

leather belt'
r rfk
1812.
r?
'
v^.'
United S
In
Centuv-y
collars a i\4 lapels-'
coromodoreblue coat w'-th

gilt-white collar
tabs -wril+e lawn
nav/L/
a ni/
black s/K cravat--
ribbon
jewel
wtt">
order
drawn through
bolf-fonhole'
8IZ
mcin ne
in
nflvtj blue
Commodore'
lacks
navy blue coa.f
w'th
with
-facings -while
shitt wa'sh'coat
gilt'
coat" fnu'slMy
hooked down
center front- /
cockade
with order
iewel18IZ
-I"
sccarle-t
d -trousers'
bu+tonS'
black leather hat
g?|+
with blacK ribbonneckerchief'

black leather
a
belt *d sbo<?sptf ir of revolvers
in leather holster
black,
U8I3
navy
Ca pfd incoaf
t'whlte
blcie
w'th gi
lawn collar ar>d
vest folds 'black
|
silk
s-fbekffl3
capta> n
Summer
in
dress'
blue cloth coatee
with gilt-whi'te
trousers-Vvhte
wa'stcoatlinger'e }cibotbl<xck silk stock-
black leather
commedorenavo) blue coaf

with gilt'
whTte lawn
belt With sqbre-
Collar-
Chapeaa brqs^
watch fob-
\j&<of
black shoes'
IfflH-
*d
tabs-
ribbon wf-fb
order ?ewe
drawn
through
bound slitS/f-
Un'+eel States Dctytj

Hi ne-teenth Ce nturo.
blue jacket
in
summer ou tfl
f-
netvy blue'
doable breasted
when
officerr\avu.
blue
bouble brec
trock coat
with
gilt'
white wflist
KqKtblue
trousers-dor
blue forage
capblack
shoesIS30
's
so'Iots dre^s
becoming more
uolforn)-
otnamentdl
touches of vtars.
"d anchors added
by wearer-Some men
fl
sewed
well- blue
locket an d
trojsers' whife
Shfri w'+K light
blue collar q "d
uesfee-blacksilk
neckerch'efblack straw
hat n.th
black ribbon
l83o's
batrorxJd-
white shirt wi+h

bra'ded irooX ap4
Collar(notrnsignia)-
black silk
neckerch'et-wide
bottom trousers'
str ci w haf with
blue ribbon
edcje an d
band
I830's
Unlfed S-lafes Davy

Dine fee nth Century
marine-navu,
blue coateeg'ltepaulettes'
red ah d gflt
ConirOodore>v ^ blue
r
uni'torm"
double-breasted
pvock coaf
wf+K gfltblock leather
be.|| -gil+
buckle-
forage
blue
capsvjord-
l84D's
coIUt a d
in
cuf-fs-
red closure edge
wh'+e canvas
buckle5'ridvy D|ue||
striped, I'gbt
blue
h-ou5ar&-
black shako-g'lf
eaq\e Qn d jfbbon
band-reel
pompon-black
shoes-trfle ISH-O'S
^r
acting
rrud
ship man
blue
'.7
umtoYinâjlT'
rrvfilsbipman^
navq blue co^ê-
buttons^
anchor rnotnS on
collafwh'te
shfrt- black
g
ri-!"
s'l
ci-cu/ah-
whfte
bu-t'r-ons-bl^ck
s'lk cravaf-
whfte shiYt
collar -tabs-
blue borage cap'

black |ea+ber
punips-
clr
bowsers - straw
'/
8 s-o
hdt w'-tb blue
ribbo^ ba r\dblack shoes(8H-
r-T vV
United Stages T)a^

Dineteen+h Century
admiral'
navy Blue
uni-Form
with î Ifdouble -breasted

frock eoatwhite collar
tabs-black
cr^vatblue kepi
s IK
with gil+block leather

belt-sabre" officerI860's navy blue
ur> for re-
double -breasted
-Frock Coat
iA/ith g T -+"
I
white collarblack leather

bell- blue cap
with g"|+>
i860 -s
foil
front-
3buttor>52 pockets
in belt
sailor's wiofei*
dress- unfform
'"d p'e cap in
nav/ii blue cleth-
wh'te braid
or>
marine
icerb'ue
collar- b'ack silk
o-f-f
neckerchieFtyousers laced
navu
in
back-Mck
leather sword
an d cartridge
frock coaidouble-brejs
gilt burtor.5-
bov-'e volver-
blue velvet"
collar- d|u
1860
white epaulette
white canvas
belT
's
belt-leather
Cartridge boxblack snako
w.'th gilt "id
red pompom Sword a,>d sabre
_iJ
Confederate States DaviJ

IS6i*i865
lis
>
pictures at '
Con federate
sa'lors are
rare-4he wfnter
(
uniform was
Ibp'ranking
cap fain-'
gray
ot
gray flanrie
wth black
black
neckerchfef q id
p'le-hat,
tip'form-
frock COato^&r shoes'

summer dress
short jacket'
whfte
gray forage CQp'
piacK trim tlrick shoes
JL
r
5ti
to
lor With sponger

swab +he gun
I
after each
grOLj clo+h
breecnes--
_J
~^r
-fi've-
shnrt probably
black a r>J qray

black cap,
nee kerch'ef
shoesbelt q
ba.u of\et~
capfqin Jn
ppet of a
*
*
*
rata* nq cruiser
nondescript
unfform0ray -frock coat
i
*>d
troU5irs-
wh'-re srifrt'
black scart
a id shoes'
gray forage
cap
-Wj
Ginned States Davy

nineteenth Cenrunj
captain
in
pew
5kjle
unfforrn- sack
cOdt qr>d trousers
ofriavy blue
cloth-Collar
a nrf
edqe ofcodf
of flat t>l<ack
uniform of
navy blue cloth
with gilt"
black beaver
chapeau \>msblack cockade
aidgilt-aik-
mohafr braidailtslee ve
stripes-wni-re
cap w'th black
band
>d
vi'sor--
1890's
belt 'Vvhifi?
q/'oves--swoi'd'
6 90 s
1
sailor's
regulation
Wi.1
warm
weaHie''
are^s-wîte
bleached drill'
ricivaj
6a
OverShirt,
black s'lk
ncckerch'ei-vvh
Cord Un'fe
Iqnijard'wniVa
bra.'d on coiljr
J,>
ricj
Opjmsn
American LtJjrnjvy bldd with
whUeblack J
ple cap -black s^[k
neckerchief -kn'fe
lanyard -rifle qn d
cjrh-ijje belt'
cup-
block ribbon baod-
black sho^sl890's
lor in
of the
cuffs-be ll-sbjpeJ
nuvjl trouserstvhite pic
riling
r?^V/
CO ffon Jjihjrs'
black shoes '
189?.
MILITARY
THE 20TH CENTURY

CHAPTER
THE UNITED STATES ARMY
in all
dress regulations, for the
uniform of khaki in
1902, included the
men
field
service
branches. According to the climate,
its
cotton, the color nearer green than
pattern followed the British

all
FIVE
that
model used
known
it
as
wear
was
first
time in
for officers
to be of
and
wool or
khaki. In design, the
in the South African
campaign with
overcoats and accessories matching in color. Buttons and designations of
and metal ornaments were
units
denoting
The
officers'
rank was
soft, civilian
World War
to be
to
be of bronze-colored metal.
worn on
and the smart black
was the handsome, wide leather

over the right shoulder.
insignia
the shoulder straps.
War
by the British
collar devised
The
Office just prior to
were noteworthy improvements
tie
by a narrow strap passing
belt supported
Sam Browne
This was the
as
belt,
sword
belt
designed in 1888 by the British General, Sir Samuel Browne (1824-1901).

Breeches came to below the knee with leather puttees for
gaiters for privates, or puttees of
such as were
worn
khaki cloth
in the Anglo-Indian
strips
officers
and canvas
bound round the
leg
Army.
For winter wear there was a double-breasted greatcoat of heavy woolen

cloth
and a new shorter coat of waterproofed canvas lined and collared with
sheep's wool.
khaki
felt.
cap which
The
Later, in the war, this hat
we
to the Scotch
pocket.
named
hat was that of the Spanish
War, the campaign hat
was replaced by the European
in
style
called the "overseas cap," a snappier-looking headpiece akin
bonnet or Glengarry.
It
Modern warfare brought back
could be folded and carried in the

the need of an "iron hat," this time
the "tin hat," a shallow helmet of steel with a padded lining.
World War
to enable
it
to
II
carried the
army deeply
into
all
kinds of
produce the proper kind of clothing

79
to
tests
and research
combat not only men
FIVE CENTURIES OF AMERICAN
COSTUME
and machines but climate and the elements. Cold, is a much greater problem
Army workshop
than heat and in the
in Alaska,
rigid
were given
trials
equipment, parkas, even the horses' snowshoes. Ski troops were uniformed
in all-white
and raincoats were worn
in artificial, wind-driven storms to be
proved water-repellent.
The
brown
army uniform was
color of the
Army
leather accessories as
russet color.
feminine
skirt
worn with
the garrison cap.
new
self-belt.
Museum
the
clothes,
It
a fellow officer,
had the
civilian
of the Military
General has since presented the
Academy
approved the blouse and probably for the very

life
famed "Eisenhower
deeply notched lapels and two large patch pockets. In a
wardrobe of other military

jacket to the
now became
overseas cap
was designed by
It
is
and the
the darker tunic,
military style was set by the
reaching to and fastening at the waist by a

collar,
lighter shade called drab
The
the darker jacket.
jacket" or, as the British say, blouse.
lay-down
worn with
used as contrast in the masculine trousers
and the
established as "olive-drab"
borrowed an American idea for

Officially, as of 1960, the
West
at
first
The
Point.
British
time in their military
soldiering.
Eisenhower jacket has been eliminated by a new
uniform in greenish-gray cloth with longer and more shapely tunic and
and
instead of tan shoes, socks
a very smart dress.
belt, these accessories are
news item
further that the United States

"fore
and
fashion.
aft" first
permanent trouser
Army
is
appeared in the 1890's
To match
the outfit,
become regulation United

men. Originally the
following
when
what was the
States
Army
British cap,
we
call
it
suit.
making
crease
The
and
said
trouser crease
British officers introduced the
officer's
"Class
black,
Belgium and some other
of 1961 stated that
European armies are making use of
now
cap in the
A" uniform
last
cap for
all
war has
enlisted
the Service cap, a good-looking
headpiece with braid band, brass-buttoned strap and leather
visor.
gilt disc
with spread eagle ornaments the center front.
Many
lives
have been saved by proper camouflage. Both khaki and
olive-
drab are excellent neutral colors for the purpose but each one valuable in a
different landscape.
suit,
one
side olive
So the
Army
concocted a chameleonic one-piece jungle
and the other drab,
Boots were another problem, as
it
to be used either side.
was found
that the Alpine boot of
heavy leather impregnated with grease was not satisfactory in Alaska. The
age-old
Eskimo boot
of tanned, dried leather with canvas top proved quite
80

warm
perfect for the need because several pairs of
worn
socks could be
But the supply of caribou and moose of which the "mukluk"

far
from
sufficient to furnish
had
substitute
to
be found. Arctic
Another helpful
which
secret of
being copied
is
is
Army
the
felt
is
inside.
made was
with the necessary leather and a
worn by
boots are
Eskimo and Indian dressing
the stationary troops.
warm and
keep
to
the "layering of clothing," using several light pieces
The United
of underclothing instead of one heavy undergarment.
and
States
Canadian Armies work together on many problems, solving them in
joint
research.
For the
wardrobe
man who
to be
had
intends to
make
in formal, service
the
Army
and
field
his career there
uniforms but
if
is
he
a sizable
is
in the
Reserve or National Guard and enlists just for the duration of war he can
eliminate
all
Department he was permitted
Navy up
In the
to
to
use.
The
wear
and during the
of three classes, dress, undress
summer
War
During World
dress uniforms.
and
war, the
service
officers'
dress
is
The same uniform
is
for particular
epaulettes
formal
as
dress.
uniforms consisted
and white uniforms
for
blue frock coat with epaulettes and plain belt called for
blue trousers, sword and the cocked hat. This
worn
War
by order of the
uniform
his service
last
II
calls.
the dress uniform to be

for
undress except that
and sword were eliminated and instead of the cocked
cap was worn. This latter

martial proceeding.
At
vided, service dress
is
all
is
on duty or for
for reporting
hat, the blue
service at a court
other times for which special uniform
correct.
Whenever
ordered, mess dress
is
not pro-
to be
is
worn
at dinner.
Today, in the United States Uniform Regulations dated 1959,
and khaki,
that service dress uniforms, blue, white

for United States
Naval
or appropriate except
uniform
state,
is
officers
when
dress,
uniforms to be worn
at official
Aviation green
at
is
worn when engaged
Khaki
to
be
worn
when weather
at sea, at
prescribed
worn upon
occasions of
at
which
Evening
civilians
would
tie.
advanced bases when prescribed. Blue
within station limits
is
officers in their official capacity.
evening functions
normally wear dinner dress or black
stated
evening dress, tropical or working
indicated. Full dress uniforms shall be
ceremonies and solemnities by
is
are the basic uniforms
and the wearing of a uniform
full
it
in
to
work
at
aviation activities or
be worn on board vessels and
conditions warrant and
when
anchorage in isolated anchorages,

81
prescribed.
when engaged

in
work
when
or aviation activities or
only in hot weather
And
authority.
when
considered suitable and appropriate by prescribing
when engaged
dungarees,
nature would unduly
worn
prescribed. Tropical uniforms are
in
work which by reason
of
its
other uniforms.
soil
In the above regulations of 1959, the dress cocked hat has passed into
oblivion.
Noted
are the
cap,
visor
working cap but no chapeau bras
garrison cap, tropical helmet and the
after a century
new item formerly
Epaulettes too, have been supplanted by a
reminiscent of armor and
now
and a half of good standing.

called scales,
marks" which
just plain "shoulder
is
self-
explanatory.
Rumor
has had
commonly among
it
now and
the enlisted
then that the century-old
men
Only two changes have taken place

trousers the legs are
now
straight
is
pretty
broad-fall trousers.
poll taken
sixteenth
new
was
suit,"
to be re-designed.
since the last war, instead of bell-bottom
the same, even to the thirteen button,
among
the
Navy men
of the Atlantic
and
1956 brought out the fact that though some "city types"
Pacific fleets in
wished
"monkey
known
and the jumper has been shortened. Other-
much
uniform
wise, the
as
sailor's rig,
uniform, the majority preferred the British cut
set
in the
men
and which the American Navy borrowed. Most
century
thought the side pockets looked tacky and unmilitary, and considered the
broad
fall
front a better
fit
and more
traditionally "navy."
Navy spokesman
vote against a change, a
said
atomic-powered submarines and the supersonic
that
jet
those
Apropos of the
who man
the
fighters are surprisingly
conservative.
Interesting indeed
points or "aiguilletes."
though
it
was "points"
is
the heavy rope cord usually
We
gilt,
employ the French word
still
in old English. All
ending in two
for the decoration
through the Medieval Period the
fashion was to "tie with points" the various pieces of costume, male or
female, to fasten the waistcoat, hip-length stockings to the doublet, sleeves
to the bodice
it
was adopted
and
in
finally, tying
on
As
France during the reign of Louis XIII
1610 to 1643. Today, in our country

President at the
pieces of armor.
White House,
it is
a distinctive
a military insignia
who was king from
mark
of the aide to the
the aide to top-ranking state officials and the
aide to foreign high representatives visiting the United States.
It
is
portant insignia and the various rules to be observed in the wearing of
82
an imit
and

the fourragere or both, are several pages long in the official
Army and Navy
Manuals on uniforms.
In the First
citation
World War
and was presented
the fourragere
became
a significant
and units which displayed
collectively to regiments
The
distinguished service or conspicuous valor in action.
round the
left
armscye by
is
worn
so honored.
have made a permanent place for themselves
Though
they have not taken part in active combat,
Army and Navy and
they have established their value as workers to
found too helpful
braided cord
women
In this day and age

in the military forces.
members
all
French military
Of
to pass by.
course, the
most
have been
and important
vital
service
has been in the nursing profession where they have been accepted for over a
many heavy
tasks.
For instance, in
handled not only the
office
work but
century but they have also proved adept in
women
a transportation set-up,
hauled and drove both cars and trucks.
found
women
better than
work
fore considered to be the

in 1942 but in 1943 the
men
word
The Army and Navy have

some
in the execution of
of
jobs that
at
over-
times
were hereto-
men. The Women's Auxiliary was organized
was honorably
auxiliary
deleted, the
women from
then on being created full-fledged army personnel.
There were
women
in
uniform in World
Red
departments, Nursing,
Cross,
other non-combat work. But in

status,
War
Motor Corps, Signal Corps,
World War
dozen
in about half
Clerical
and
they acquired real military
II
nurses going directly from civilian to commissioned officer rating with
wardrobe of uniforms conforming

Until the
changed
last
to those of the
men.
war army nurses have always worn navy blue but they
Most
to olive-drab.
skirts of the First
too,
World War uniforms were
ankle-length, an incongruous length for military
work whether
fashionable
or not! Shoes were high and laced, serviceable no doubt, but ugly.
By
war
skirts
serviceable
but
much
them
had climbed
to the knees,
smarter looking.
The
suits
Oxfords were low and
and caps had a dash and an
that a top-ranking designer such as our
bocher furnished to the American

Forces in
World War
was during those
II
were
woman
much
years that the
still
the last
air
about
Paris-New York couturier Main-
in service.
Women
in the
Armed
envied by the feminine civilian world.
American nylon stocking was perfected
but,
women
by government decree, the glamorous hosiery could only be had by
It
in
uniform.
In general,
all
uniforms and accessories authorized for enlisted

83
women
are

same
the
worn by women
as those
women below
enlisted
when
from those
chief petty officers differ
and white, are the
Service dress uniforms, blue
women
In a few instances, uniforms for
officers.
in the United States Navy.
These
the wearing of the uniform
is
basic uniforms for enlisted
be worn on
latter shall
dress light blue

service white
uniform
is
for
warm
occasions
all
when
prescribed or appropriate except
dinner dress, working or a sports uniform
full dress,
of the officers.
weather.
is
The
not practical, and
is
service
generally substituted for
It is
during working hours when white
indicated.
may
be
designated as the uniform of the day.

Full dress uniforms shall be
men. Dinner
worn on ceremonial
dress uniforms are for occasions
occasions as
when women
is
officers
noted for
wear
ning or dinner dress uniforms. Gray working uniforms are worn in
when white
weather
of the day.
Dungarees
to
prescribed by the
the sports uniform or exercise suit, the use

sport for
which the
dress
And now we come

dress
to the
on which chemists and
successful tests in the
was
would be
is
warm
be designated as the uniform
worn when engaged
be
They may be
regular uniforms.
may
not practical and
is
eve-
in
work which would
commanding
officer.
soil
As
to
optional while engaged in any
appropriate.
many, many new inventions
scientists
in soldiers' service
have been working, some having passed
Korean War, 1950
to 1955. In 1950 a "wet-cold" outfit
issued to the G.I's fighting in sub-zero weather.
The undergarments were
covered by a water-repellent and wind-resistant field jacket with hood and
The high
trousers.
soles.
The
soldier
boots
worn over two
pairs of
was kept warm by making
woolen socks had thick inner
full use of the
body warmth and
controlling perspiration.
"vapor barrier" uniform which appeared in 1951, fashioned from pliable,
molded
plastic sponge, rubber-like
and about an inch
of underwear, provides an inner circulation of drying
thick, acting as a piece
and warming
air.
Be-
cause of the microscopic cells in the plastic, a soldier thrown into the water
with his pack becomes an unsinkable body. The idea behind the
the soldier
is
suit
is
that
if
doused, he can without changing his clothes, dry out quite
comfortably.
Armor
G.I.'s, in
returned to use in the Korean
War
being worn by Marines and
an armored jacket made of nylon and fibrous
the waistcoat prove that the Medical Corps

bat troops.
It
glass.
recommended
matches the combat uniform, dark green in

84
its
So successful did
use for
color,
is
all
flexible
comand

Of overlapping, contoured
does not impede movement.

glass covered
with a special
fabric, the vest
made
equipment. Another vest was

All proved real
vas.
of
plastic plates of fibrous
became standard Marine Corps
aluminum and nylon encased
in can-
from
savers in stopping bullets at close range, slugs
life
machine guns and small fragments from bursting grenades which
is
it
said,
cause most casualties.
When
way
the Air Force got under
in 1907,
had
it
a long
name
as the
One
officer
"Aeronautical Division of the Signal Corps, United States Army."
and two
own
enlisted
men compromised
plane took place one year
to Aviation Service
but only thirty-five were
flyers.
it
By
its
World War
the
In
later.
and by then
the division and
had
fifty-five
of the Air Force, first called
its
name was changed
Harbor
in 1941, the Air
peak in World
WAC's and
its
planes and sixty-five officers
the time of Pearl
Force had grown tremendously, reaching
women
I,
mission in
first
later,
WAF's,
War
II.
in 1948
The
became
a part of the United States Air Force, the legislature integrating the corps
into the Air Force Structure.
While
this
book was being written in the Astronaut Year
American Astronaut made the
trip into
the most fabulous uniform of
all
of 1961, the first
Outer Space, there and back
He wore
time, silver blue in color, a full-pressure suit
custom-fitted to the individual astronaut. Built into the dress
ment whereby oxygen was pumped
into the
was an arrange-
garment circulating about the
body, maintaining an even temperature of seventy degrees.
Oxygen was
fed into
the helmet, the exhaled breath passing out through a vent in the helmet.
suit
was
also
The
equipped with a communication system.
This was followed by a
new
fabric for Space travel, a textile surfaced with
twenty-four carat gold to protect travelers into the
Unknown from
the fiery
temperatures to be encountered.
As
of 1962 the
all flights
list
of brave
men who
being successful; scores of
have orbited the earth has grown,
satellites
have been placed into an orbit of
the earth and capsules have been rocketed to the

are
now
moon and
beyond. Scientists
thinking of "Space colonies" and planning well-equipped observatories,
even way-stations for the travelers, and they say that such plans will
hard-shell suit of coat-of-mail to protect the
vehicle or
working outside on
opment programs cover
spaceman when riding
a platform or a station.
wide range of technology which
ing the frontiers of science and knowledge. In

are
becoming
Thus
reality.
85
fact,
call for a
inside his
research and devel-
is
constantly enlarg-
the most fantastic dreams
Twentieth Century
(JJorld (Oar I
United States
U.S.
qeneralp
uniform
.P
Ol
olfve-cirab clo+hSar Browne ben,
boots, belts
"M
cap v'sor ot
brown lea-Cher'
bronze buttons
a,
"nsiqn'a-'
dress sword
West Point
CadeT pr ivate"
unifbrrnray cloth'
Field
,3
gray uncocked
campaign hat'
black scarf
campaign belt
of canvas russet leather
shoes 'blanket
TOl"-rifle
1911
l.
Twen+'eH'h Century
UOorld UJaxI
"^
Utn'-ted Sta-f-es
Cdncidiao
aviator
in
khakf
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brow
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belr.gloê s>
ar
shoes>d
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kUkr
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cap--sw'd<?4 er
sffck
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ol'vedrab
un'ÔrnT cap
viso^Sam Browne
3
bdt, glomes ^d
ffeld boofs
i-usset' colore
leather^
wii n
Topcoat"
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aid
U.S.
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oft'oei S
5 hcrf over coa f'
olf\/edrab cloth
Ifned q *"i collared
w'th moutooU a iT>b)welted pocketsbelf of self-fa br'c-
russef learner
put-fees Qh d
shoes
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bronze
bur fons-oliVe-dra b
campaign hat xirh
nbbon ""M cord
igW
wenKet
n Centura
OJorld a'arl
United States
U.S.
Sfll'lor in
U.S.
Infantryman'
'blues'"
wh'te washable
CaD' whi'tebrJid on
olve '>clrab
uniform ^sprd
pu-Hees 'brown
,
collar-
black
leather belts
silk
"d
shoeS'Ccinvas
necKerchi<?T'
blqck
leather
cartridge belt
case holding
iJ
^s mask-stee
sho^ a
helmeNrifle
U.S. Marine
M.S.
in
olTve'dVab
jni'form
datj blues
"
navy blue
jchi'nfi 3l
funic
u cap-
Frencii blue
fro users
.impawn
canvas be
with
red stripe
black sboes-
"d gaifers.c irtn'dge beif'
canvas b^l f
bayonet'
t>rown woolen
glco/es-vus-sef
with
riFle
lea+ber shoes'
boi/onet
vV
Twen-f i&fh Century

OJoyIc) O)or I
UnHecl Srafes
Umericen
U. O-CUornen's
Red Cross-
Ot?|f-defense
Oxford gray
uniform-
ed marks
army
feugueTrdned-
knaki uniforming
on
campaign ha
Colldr-whRe
blouse- Y&d
scarf-wlafre
coflon gloves
\-
Wr>aW blouse '
black scarf-'
ca
Oxford 5 r ay
overseas copblack, laced
shoes
m/as aa\ ters brown shoes
\T)aroe-tte of the '(J5 ofgv-ial Co rpsU.S.fttanne Corps' ["Yenclvspeak

a/I
khaki'
operators
over se asIncluding navu blue

uniform
blouse îd u Diforrnscurf --brown sf'raw or felt

qloves an d hat "n season
shoes gray glove-sblack,lac.ed
shoesbrassard
on arm
-w^
Twen+'eft Ceofaru
COcrld CU^t J
Ginned Stores
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navy biue-
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full
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mannish
suii-
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blouse- blue
straw sailor
|
oLSolDavLj
Purse Corps
overseas
nsvij blue
uniTorrnn at, blue
-felt
in
or straw
season-
Ko+- blue
yTbbon baridCjray glomes-
blue rfbbon band

whfte blouse-
Iace4, black
gr<2<^
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blue scarfgloVes-khaWi,
bu-rtooed garters
blac k sboes
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blue unnorm
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"nalud'ng
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q
scarfgray glovesblack
shoes
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kKak! cimform
"inc|ad*ng
ah d
ca p, blouse
scarf -cap
v'so^belfs,
gloves ^n^
puftees,njsset
eathev-dark brown
shoes
'vr_
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TwenKe-fh Centura
United States
a. 5.
ta nk driver
all
overalls of
5.
LI.
ski" UruTorrn
of the enlTsfecf
ma n- whTI'e
For
Hiakf-
camouflage,
warmth"^ wafer
repellency-edged
th wolverine,
the only fur
thaf does not
frost- brown
zfppered funic
a *d trousers'
worn ever
u n^formheadqear, Ln'ng,
crash helrriet
d qoqqlesUrmy russet
shoes- pouchknapsack-rifle
Woolen miftenslaced white
browo
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suit
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lined ""d
edged
wfth alpaca
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s'des oT legs
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boot's- boot's ot
flesh, s'de-OLit"
leather-
lf"r\ed
qoatskm
gauntlefsgoqgles or.
helm et
a. 5.
bomberzfppeêd
overalls of
oli've'drab
Jnsulafed
do
new pockets
upper v*th s
openings- low
ones on fraus
hooded
rnfft
of pile fabric
Wtfrmth-wm fa
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333 let
boofs
postwar* designed
ur\ôrtn for
combat
infanfryol'vedrab
eiol-b overa ilscreamcolored
shirt
z:
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CDorld COcrtl
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ipper instead
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buttons-
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my
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cartrfdge oelf
rifle q "d
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field Un d service
uniform
olive -drub
cloth --famed
cJsenhower*
SHAEF
Combat jacket'
russet
shoes q *d beltgarrison cap
drab shivtb)ack scarf
lrrou
cold
weather
battle dress In
paratrooper style
worn over woolen
5k' rt Oidfrousers'
officer's re-gu
darkgreeo
service uniform^
+umc Olive -drab-
iosfa'e
buftoostrousers ot drab,
(light shade)drab shirtblack -scarfQrrnu russet
gilt
cap
Sam
belt
druwstrmg
Instead of beK'l
atqe
pocket
on each leg
lined sateen cap'
Combat boots,
flesh-side.out leathe
vfsor,
a
w^ter->
repellent" cotton
"id leahercuffs
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French blue
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water- repellentcrash helrnet'

tar- I'ned
rubber boots
nofe b'noeular
case
blue
a *d
wh'fe capblack
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Tor cKarging through
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khak" cotton
combat dressi9ro
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Snorts-long V^ni+ted
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black scarf
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navy blue welt
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black sflk_
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stitching-
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m an
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poncho
of nylon i/vhfch
served as tent,
raincoat,
fox hole cover,
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or bee)
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i960
THE COLONISTS
I6TH AND I7TH CENTURIES
CHAPTER
AND NOW TO THE SETTLERS

the vision of a
of the
new homeland where
SIX
New
as they chose, build a future
From
Europe they came.
had
to
parts of
work but
Much
and perhaps even
a fortune!
they had to learn and hard they
tree trunks. It
duced by the Swedes
what
tools they
who
settlers
is
settled in
brought some
The men
the family wore.
cloth
some
became
their
sort of log cabin
treasures, their clothes and, of course,
men were
occupied in carpentry, hunt-
women
carried
Along with cooking and cleaning they were
manufacture soap, candles,
cotton,
It
Delaware.
could carry. While the
chores and more.
As
all.
supposed that the log cabin was intro-
ing and fishing for the family's daily living, the
shoes.
it
virgin continent, they were forced to live in wretched huts
from roughly hewn
doubt the
with
and enjoy
of tree bark and earth until each family could build
No
who came
roots
the result justified the endurance of
Promised Land.
down
they could put
freedom, worship
all
World, they
spin,
weave and sew, producing
in domestic
called
all
upon
to
the clothing
learned to dress skins for outdoor clothing and
the colonies progressed they learned to cultivate
and wool from
on
Scottish sheep. Especially
from the
flax,
hemp,
latter, a
silk,
durable
was woven.
In those days, simple well-made clothes of handwoven fabrics lasted a long
time due to good-wearing quality and
from season
and many
to season as they
a fine
heirloom in a
to church.
we
At
because fashions did not change
style
sometimes lasted the century
garment, hat, fur or beautiful lace was bequeathed
were worn on
Everyday dress of the
an
worn and
those are the clothes
solid citizen did follow the basic
of the period but in a simpler version.
104
as
special occasions and, of course,
other times, plain clothes were
shall illustrate.
mode
do today.
will. Best clothes

all
also,
The
Puritan went to the far

extreme in eliminating
ornamentation such
all
as
lace,
ribbon bowknots,
buckles on his shoes, plumes on his hat, whereby, knowingly or not, he
achieved a smart and distinctive
The
first
Europeans
who
Spaniards
style.
colonize
to
in
Americas were the imperious
the
and California,
established themselves in Mexico, Florida
tak-
ing over vast realms by conquest. By 1600 the conquistadors had gained im-
measurable lands for the Castilian Crown, added glory to the Church and
fulfilled their love of adventure.
Gold and
silver
revenues went to the
Crown
while the development of agriculture, grazing and commerce produced

private wealth.
tion
A New
World
civilization
was the outcome
much
of the combina-
and the ages-old culture of certain South American
of Christianity
Indians.
The
Spaniards, influenced by centuries of contact with the Moors, were
individual in living, art and dress. Their style

dress of the
was elegant and dominated the
European courts for nearly a century. Theirs was the grand man-
ner and they gave to Europe the ruche, the
bombast
ruff, the corset, the
padded doublet, trunk hose and,
style of the
trunks or full breeches.
The
later,
the
hoop, the
unpadded
knitted silk stocking was a Spanish creation, also
the use of rich black as a costume color.
However, over the
years, the
heavy migration
to the
New World
depleted
the population of the mother country and eventually led to the ruin of their
industry and
commerce
creators of culture.
at
home and
consequently to the
loss of position as
Spanish costume though courtly was not suited to the
rigors of everyday life in the
new
that the Spanish ladies did not
land and was no doubt part of the reason
accompany
men
their
to the
New
Spain in
the early years of settling.

It
seems
as if the
cape has always been the most important garment in
Spanish dress whether the capa or cloak of the
woman. The masculine cape was draped with

shawl and the mantilla lent an
the short cape the gentleman
he wore the broadbrimmed

as in the
woolen
The
And
or the shawl of the
swagger while the feminine
beauty and mystery to the wearer.
With
wore the Spanish toque and with the long cloak

felt hat.
The cape was worn
winter according to the ancient rhyme,
thy cloak on."

to
air of
man
in
summer
"However hot
as well
the sun,
according to season, the fabric changed from
Keep
silk cloth
serge.
so-called "Spanish
body" required a firm foundation and for

105
this

men and women wore
reason
a leather corset.
The
board-like silhouette
was
furnished by a shaped underbodice of hard leather, "cuir bouilli" or boiled

leather. It
was
a fashion that
shape, every bit as
The
as
is
to acquire the
practiced today.
Portuguese, busy with their Oriental interests,
beginning
it
much
had European gentle folk dieting
made
in the
little effort
South American territory claimed by them, leaving
to colonize the
to private enterprise to establish trading posts. Colonization eventually fol-
lowed with the introduction of European
cattle,
grains
and
fruits
and the
beginning of the sugar industry.
The
Portuguese, a monarchy of power and wealth in this period, was a
mixture of several
races, the Latins,
dress displayed the
France.
due
It
to the
characteristics
Israelites.
In general their
did the costume of Spain and
as
has been said that their wearing of so
much
brown was
black and
simple fact that their sheep were either black or brown.
The cape and

was the
same
Arabs and
like
cloak held the same importance as in Spanish dress and there
predominance of black throughout in both masculine and fem-
inine clothes. Usually, their style was
much
less
formal. Portuguese
women
of
the middle class often wore their shawls over the head with the felt hat placed
on
top, tipping to the front in the very
the Peruvian Indians.

bolstered out by
The
many
centuries in South
same manner
separate bodice
and short
petticoats of
many
American Indian
dress.
The French, who
settled
to
be seen today
full skirts of
colors have also
among
heavy cloth
come down
the
Acadia and Quebec, Louisiana and Mississippi,
with their innate love of clothes and their talent for sewing, followed the
European mode
in
its
essentials in the occasional
new
day wear the more colorful and regional dress of
what they wore.

There
is
We
are told that
was
so in
costume. But for every-
their native provinces
was
Acadia and in the deep south.
the story of the "Casket Maids" of Louisiana, a group of carefully
picked young
women,
"virtuous and modest," whose emigration was arranged
and each supplied with
The Dutch colony
Company
in 1626
and commerce
trunk of clothing, a trousseau in other words.
of
New Amsterdam
became even
as well as a
in those early days a
cosmopolitan settlement.
nations were always to be seen in port,
and many
founded by the Dutch West India
different languages
were
many
to be
world center for trade
The
ships of
nationalities
roamed
foreign
the streets
heard in conversation. By 1660 there
were about a thousand inhabitants including many English.

106
many
Many
of the

who came
colonists
over with Peter Minuit, the
dam, were Walloons. During the Inquisition
New
governor of
first
Amster-
Walloons or
in Europe, the
Belgian French had been driven from Flanders and Belgium and had settled
in Holland.
America
as
This group proved

it
had been
in
as valuable
Amsterdam. In 1664
by the British and granted by Charles
named
II to his
Dutch
in his honor. Retaken by the
following year to the British
The
thrifty
who
and industrious
vast privileges as patroons
and industrious
held
brother, the
in 1673,
When
it
Duke
in
was seized
and
of York,
was transferred the
until after the Revolution in 1783.
it
qualities of the
augmented the
Dutch combined with
desire for fine clothes
wealthy burghers and their wives followed the

Paris.
community
New Amsterdam
homes. The Dutch were possessed of an individual
and
style of their
their
and rich
own
but the
Amsterdam
latest fashions of
dressed for church or occasions, clothes were rich indeed,
having come from the homeland or made of imported fabrics by the Dutch
tailors or seamstresses here.
accessories
up
They indulged
and owned many handsome
their taste rather extravagantly in
petticoats, the outer skirt often
looped
to display the beautiful petite cotte.
Aprons were decorations and made not only

and wool. The apron had always served a
of linen or
lawn but
practical purpose but in the six-
teenth and seventeenth centuries and well into the nineteenth century
came an
exquisite piece of ornamentation. Ladies
wore an apron
The
in
elaborate puffed
many
sets.
and
little girls
One
handmade
had
sleeves, usually false,
The upkeep was
jeweled could cost
so exorbitant that
and quite
were owned
thirty-seven pairs of sleeves, a real ex-
travagance, and as for caps and ruffs, they cost a pretty
when embroidered and
be-
lace.
and lace-trimmed
certain lady
it
of all ages
of fine linen or lawn, fabrics as costly as silk or velvet
often enhanced with beautiful
of silk
many
as
high
penny
as ten
up
ladies did
too.
Stomachers
thousand pounds.
their
own
ruffs,
no
small task to take apart, launder, starch and then repleat.
Men
followed the European
mode handsomely
in
baggy breeches, coat and
doublet or waistcoat. Leather shoes were for dress but
wooden
shoes were not
unusual for weekdays.
American beaver was the rage and

America continent and
later,
demand
for all
was the
heart's desire of all
manner
to the
a lure to the exploration of the
North
opening of the West. Beaver was in
of costume use but principally for the beaver hat
men and women who

107
which
could afford the headpiece.

The
beaver furnished food and clothing to the Indian but the white
man
in
greedy hunt for the fashionable fur so depleted the supply that the animal
his
became alarmingly
scarce.
Fifteen hundred beaver and five hundred otter skins were shipped to
Holland in the very
and trappers in trading
tricked the Indian hunters
small glittering articles and intoxicating liquor.
up farming
Dutch
season of the settlement. Dishonest
first
their precious cargoes for
And
so
many
Hudson River Valley was
white
by the
for the wealth to be gained in fur traffic that
decimation of beaver in the
citizens
men
gave
1660's the
already apparent.
Eventually the Indian fur trade was attracted by the French to Canada so
American Revolution fur-trading
that by the time of the

tically ceased.
was
Up
Albany had prac-
in
to this period the business of supplying peltries to the whites
wars against other Indian
really the cause of the Iroquois
tribes in their
endeavor to monopolize the fur trade.
The English
in Virginia,
Delaware and the Carolinas wore the contem-
porary European fashion, practically
from London
up
right
planters.
The
graceful
mode
ladies
to
dress
all
and home finery being ordered
the Revolution, especially
of silks, velvets, brocades
were long
the Virginia
and gentlemen of the South adopted the Cavalier

and the large beaver
wore handsome leather boots with red heels and

too,
among
curls,
hat.
style, a
The men
falling tops. In the picture,
wigs and hair powder along with
lace,
ribbons and
shoe-roses.
The
cultivation of tobacco introduced in
economic and
accounts in
Every family of importance kept charge
social life of the South.
London and
1612 was a vital part of the
the purchases
made
against the foreign accounts were
based upon the anticipated crops of the coming season.
produced
flax,
Virginians also
cotton and wool but most quickly acquired wealth with their
vast plantations of tobacco
Slaves
The
grown with
the labor of thousands of negro slaves.
were not new, having been introduced by the Spaniards
Domingo,
the
first seat
of the Spanish
After the Edict of Nantes in 1685

Protestants or
Huguenots came
to
government
many
of the thousands of exiled
America. They
their skills to the build-up of the
day working dress of these
men
settled
new
French
in Pennsylvania,
life
anew,
at the
The
every-
continent.
consisted of short, loose breeches
108
San
in the Americas.
Massachusetts, the Carolinas and Virginia where they started
same time adding
in 1501 in
and jerkin
THE COLONISTS16TH AND 17TH CENTURIES

of fustian, frieze or canvas over a shirt of linen or cotton
and an apron
of
dressed leather.
The English
chusetts, Connecticut,
Fathers
two
who
landed
separatists to
New
of
settlers
Rhode
England founded the colonies
Plymouth
at
make
New
Island,
the
Hampshire and Maine. The Pilgrim
in 1620
were a group of one hundred and
New
settlement in
first
England. The Puritans,
another group of separatists, settled in Salem some years

the period was the
handsome Cavalier
made
land on what to wear. This
later.
The mode
of
but the Cromwellian Puritans
style
many sumptuary
were the ruling power and passed
of Massa-
laws while
Eng-
in
still
Puritan dress the plainest and simplest
version of the current fashion.
was decreed that "Sadd-colours" be worn, grayed tones of any
It
lace,
the
no
frills,
no shoe buckles or
name "Roundhead." The

The
shoulder.
jewels.
The man's
color,
no
hair to be cut round, thus
Cavalier wore his graceful, curling locks to the
Puritans believed in well-made, sturdy clothes of good material
but "playne!" All sorts of fines were recorded for the wearing of ribbons,
wide-brimmed hats and what not Dressier

!
folks
wore various
laces,
styles of capes,
particularly in scarlet or with scarlet lining, this color a favorite for
two
centuries.
The Quakers, known
who went
as the Society of Friends,
to Pennsylvania
were
company
of people
with William Penn in 1682. Of a religious
sect
founded in 1650, they were mockingly called "quakers" because they trembled
when
Though
religiously aroused.
followed the fashion of the day in

hue, especially red, as
"cardinal."
Men wore
much
the
as
staid
and
neat, their
all its color.
any
costume before 1700
Quakers wore cloaks of bright
colonist, calling the favored scarlet cape a
wide-brimmed hat of Cavalier shape but
never raised in salute to rank or lady, according to the rhyme

loves
an ample brim,
with
all
hat that
bows
to
ing which has
come down
The feminine
ornament marked
it
as
the
headcover-
Quaker bonnet was the height
fashion in that day and hailed from Paris but the fact that
of
Quaker
wear wig and powder, even
a supply of wigs.
to us as the
was
no salaam." The group dispensed
fripperies of dress yet occasionally did
William Penn himself who had
"The
it
it
of
was worn bare
Quaker bonnet. There were no sumptuary
laws on record but the seal of approval was for muted color and design of
utter simplicity. All
garments were beautifully made of the
109
richest silks, finest

broadcloth and the sheerest of lawns, and expensive clothes they were!
was the green lawn apron and because
particular accessory
much
in the early period
The Swedish
settled
regarded as insignia of the Quakeress.
to be
Both old
way
Scotch-Irish entered by
settlers
colonists, so
many
of
and newcomers, German, Swiss and
was
from 1715
a port
to
into the valleys, especially the Shenandoah.
whom
were peasants, became an important and
valuable background with the pioneering
restless society of
Germantown
the founding of
of Philadelphia which
They then trekked southward
These
so
Fort Christina, Wilmington today, on the Delaware in
in Pennsylvania in 1683.
all
came
German immigration began with
1638 and the
1750.
it
was worn
it
workers, inventors, artisans right
down
spirit.
They were
the line to butcher, baker and
candlestick maker.
These people,
followed the European fashion but in a manner which
too,
The German
revealed the nationality of the wearer.
an exaggerated
style
version of the
with great elaboration. In men's dress the
was decidedly square with slashing covering every
bit of space.
mode was
over-all effect
Women's
dress
consisted of short, tightly fitted bodice with deep yoke, full sleeves divided
into
many
Among
puffs, long, full skirts
the
German
and nearly always the apron.
colonists there
Europe who
were many
sects
from towns on the
Lower Rhine
in
bers of their
countrymen followed. Their costume changed
centuries
and consisted
homespun tow
chiefly of tunic or shirt
cloth, the cloth
hemp. The women's everyday

full skirt
The
and
settled principally in
woven from
dress
was
origin of the
or linen, plainly
was
and coat made of
yarn of home-grown
flax or
dark colored, a short,
modern
blouse
is
in the tunic of the Ancients
made
in the sixteenth century
costume of both
sexes.
Of
which
was
fine
es-
lawn
or laced, the garment showed at neck and as under-
Housewife and peasant maid generally wore a long apron

a fashion that pleased all,
The making
over the
little
a tight bodice laced in front over the lingerie shift.
pecially featured as a decorative part of
It
trousers
in peasant style,
became the chemise of the Europeans and
sleeves.
and
num-
Pennsylvania where
of the chemise
meant
male and female,

fine stitchery,
an
aristocrat
art practiced
to
match.
and peasant.
by lady and
farmer's daughter.
Founded upon
this,
regional dress developed in Europe during the six-
teenth century, each province or city creating
did not change with the mode.
The women,
110
its
own
individual dress
in particular,
which
brought and wore

the costume of their
Common
homeland
to the
new
country, even to the
men and women meant
footwear for
wooden
wooden
the boot,
shoes.
shoes, or
barefoot since the leather shoe such as the low, buckled shoe was only for
dress-up occasions.
The
ing
colonial frontiersman liked his winter cap of raccoon with a
one
at
side.
Raccoon was in great demand abroad but
teenth century with the necessity of
home manufacture
tail
hang-
late in the seven-
in
mind, laws were
passed prohibiting the export of the pelts.
The
a popular
by
muff while not an accessory
fur
enough piece
judges.
of costume to be mentioned.
by gentlemen
ladies but
What were
some
as well, including
at first
roomy
common man was
in everyday dress of
Not only was
staid dignitaries
it
carried
and court
fur cuffs attached to sleeves turned into
small separate muffs of worsted or velvet with fur lining, or a pair of "muffe-
The
tees."
single large
muff was an "indispensable" and
fined just to the
young blood but supposedly
man
An
of position.
lent
its
use was not con-
added dignity
to the older
English writer of the time complained of the "strange
effeminate age" in which
among
by "gentlemen and others of
various other accessories, muffs were used
and
inferior quality"
also carried
by the
soldiers
of the king's guard.
Men and women wore
cloaks, greatcoats
of brilliant colors as well as black.
The
short circular cape
and capes varying
Mention has been made
was the "roquet"
as
mousquetaire. "Rocket" was what they called

teenth century, a longer version was
name and
of the "cardinal."
was the short jacket of the

in the Colonies. In the seven-
the "roquelaure" after the
Antoine-Gaston Roquelaure of France (1686-1738) whether due
shall
similarity of
When
names or perhaps because he wore
its
his cloak
the cloak acquired several shoulder capes,
the Colonists.
of
named
it
as to
The hooded cape
that
it
with a great
Marto
flare.
became the "rocolo"
women wore was
to
the capuchon because
resemblance to the mantle of the Capucin monks.
In France and England and in the same decade between 1660 and 1670
a great
vest
and
lasting
change occurred in men's
and the jerkin changed
of the falling band.
dress.
to jacket or cassock.
The fancy
The
doublet became the
cravat
was worn
in place
breeches changed to full knickerbockers bloused
over the knees and fastened with ribbon loops.
By 1670
the cassock or coat
lengthened to the knee, the vest reaching there about 1680. In the 1690's came
plain, close-fitting, knee-length breeches concealed
111
by the
coat, fastened at the

sides
by buttons or buckles. The breeches when not of the fabric of the coat
were black, which became standard.

suit of
modern
And
times.
112
there
we have
the man's habit or
Spanish
.Sixteenth Centurq
Colonists
q\r\
'always
in all-black'
when on
uoorig
tbe street- tac<2

hidden fVom view-
peasant of
Srqnada-
un jccomp<anied-
fnen smockCapa orcloak

1
whfte I'ngerfe
ruff a *d
sleeve fr||s-
of blacK wool
blacK felt
sombrero-
prayer book
long
5bc
rasjryeovel jping
brown
rs.
ngs-
sandals or"
alparg^tjf
of tspa<to
capa shaw
,
or cloak-of
rusk a
fine block
wool
canvas
Spam'sh lady
Jn
Spanish fasbfons,
ruff, wasp waraf
Corset, Tart'hrr.âle
or
Viaop-gown
or velvet or
cloth over
5qtfn- banging
sleeves topped
w~h"te lawn
undersleeveslace. zdaeA
band Kercb'ei
in
COitura
velve
s!l k,
or
woolen
cloth- pa
trunk bo
sloshed
eather shoes
I
cloak
of
5i'lk
Serge-s'lk sfockinos
5pani5h
toc|i.
wtb jeweled
band- lawn
ruff J hd
sleeve
frills
~V^y
Spanish coshunie
of" woolen clo-Hr
Spanish. ar>d Portuguese

,5ix+een+h Century
Co\on'i5+s
slashed colored
brafd' whfte
lawn ruffleather beli"'
velvet
bands
on panlaloonbblack felt
.
rbb n Dflnd
^d jewelblack woole
cape banaed
"id collated
velvet-
leather
5 pani'
spinmng yarn-
srioes-
sword
cloth frock over

IfngerTe bloase-
sleeves t'ed
to
armscqes
*
"LI "
poi-a
nts with
brafdtri'rnmed
neck^felt
bonnet' wPb
appers^
I
g frale carrfes
small knTfe-
lea+her
shoes
a-H-ached
woocfen
pattens
-ho
Portuguese ladu
black
dress w'tn muTt"*colored
hand embroidery
lingerie
neck dn d
-fy'lls
vvyi
at
Portuguese
'
sto-
black cloth
red cashmere
cape w'th
shawl -black block velvet
-Fel-fha-h-
-trim-collar
gloves -So ft"

in Innpi'pe
black Itjq-Hne
style-black
.shoes
-felt
aornbrero-
ITnger'e fr'IU
at neck *"d
wrTsts -black
shock
shoes
"rvjs
^d
wrn
latcKe+s-
swovof
_A
^-r v^
Sixteenth Ceht"urcj
FVe ncln
Colonists
lady
fur-
In
fr'mmed
gown- or
clofln
mrtat'on fur
of woolen cloth ^
widow
hood
of dull black
51
l*n
witn w
wKfte
gorge!
I
carpenter
in
working dres
Smock
OT
coarse
I'neri
or
coarse wool
cloth- tied
cord belf-cut ^d sewn
stockings
01
6erge or
rersey clo+bleather shoes
ave
lady in Proc c\de

gown-whlte lawn
neck ar>d wrist
frills, yoke %!
underbodice-"
jeweled
girdle -white
linen apron
indoors, s'lk
moire ou
1"
e.scoffi'a
s.'lkbo
sheer
la
handker
farmer -
smock-
like
aarment of
coarse iTnen
Or
Woden
c|ofh-
knltted.strfped
shlrf-do+h
Stock'ngsleather shoesfel+
ha^
^sT
</
Sixteenth Century
woman
country
mqYkeKng-
prencK
Colon IsfS
laced bodice
skfrt of
woolen
cloth-lfnen
blouse wrrin
neck fr
whjte men
aprorv+asseled
I
cords-sc'ssors
case a "d
sewing baqa
chqtelafne
called
bavolefte
headdress,
fold
erf
s'lk^
attached,'
Cap
to a
p*
Wine hawker
wooler>
cassockcloth stock fn
leather
5hoes-felf
haf
L
pejsant" carrying
r- simple
dress of woolen
wate
clo+k or Ifnen-cap,
apron, collar
q
"d Cu fts of
whTte linen-
hoop
to hold
paTIs
in
position-
rosary
a-k
COontriJ mar.
n,ai k+'r\g-Costume
clothed velvetpaneJtvunk hose
of
nd
wirtq^- linen
skirt' ta^seled cord

belt-cloth sfocktnjssi k ^jrters'lent-rnjr
I
Stlo^s- beuver hjf
w'th
rolled
S^lk b->nd
be^
i5even+een f b Century
Fren cVi
Colon's+S
peasant
liv'ng
neat
Pa r is- nar>4 so me
dress ot VleT own
haodi wot k"

lace an d
embro'de^cloth skfrtvvb'te lawr>
anderbodiCelawn hood.
over capZ nd ha R jf
Century
costume
clofn
of
^>*lk or
velvet"" rfbbon
apron-r'bboo
loops(_canons)on
breeches-lawn
shirt- fa H'ng
band-fasseled.
cord ties'
beaver hatwith
n bbon a *<i ostrich
plume' leaf her
shoes w'fb windini
ties q "d red
heels-natqra
hai'r or wig"
i6ro
peasant 'n clo+h

costume -cas sock
codt- petticoat
breeches ^white
style
peasanfs
I'nen shiVt-
near Pan's were

often asrnod'sh
fn dress as the
cravdt of lawn,
liVing
lace q "cl tuf-feta
Coarf-c.05tu.me
hat with
ri bboN loops"
leather ^>hoes
wfth r* bbon
of c/otb,lace
ar
r."bbcn-
fel-T
>d
Tontange
headdress-'
ti'es-
late in the
2nd half
Centura
of
Centura
_,
Oevenfeenth Cen+ut-y
Gng|i
Co
5'
onist"S
ycjni? woman
5pm n'nq^ woolen
cloth bodice,
peplu
\-
a "d
muslfn
blouse q *d
apron-s
lawn Du
co'f-
chafelafn
bold "nj
sewinj
"n
apfon"
fools
clotb CQ5fume
fn grac^
brown
or black-fallrng
q
cuffs
band ">d
or lawn wfi'o
lace po'nts-
dou
ble+ of
muted
colors-
long
k lapels
sil
felt hat wffb
r'pbon band'
knitted bos
leather snoes
wth
Sboe roses
lfe +
-~\
clofb cassock
n
d cape '
v6|ve+
ri
bbed
or clotb
silk'
lacTncjs over
sfj ma ch
wb+e lawn
underbod'
q hd w/hfsK
(coliar)-
black Koo
ind
of
half
over
pockets, buttons
a hd but-fenholeswh'te linen
fallfna, band-
beaver haf"
with r'bbon
band'leather
sboes' r *bbon
bow knofs2nd half
ot century
[=?
T V-N
.J
Seventeenth Centura
<ngl s'n
Colo nfsfs
velvet or silk
gown over gunked
undevskirk-
adder of
bowknofs-'
'
ingerie undersleeve
whjte Ifned,
block hood vvo-'nyg
over a sheer
/M
lawn cap-
padded
shawl mask -for
outdoors
nqainsf
cold or
suri'
C0nsenj<-fi\2
late in
version oT+be
cen turq
Cavalier
5aKn
or
velvet
cassock' soKn or
velvet vest-full
breeches- lawn
cravat of lawn
lacS'beaver
shirrq,1 d
haf"
w*+b ostrich -naKfral

colored periwig- s!|k
Stoekmgs- learner
shoes -ribbon
bow knots
*nd century
Pu r tan ' wool e n

i
doth
of black,
brown a,>d
deep,muted hues
of mosf colors-whisk afM
apron of
Holland linenfelt hat worn
Over Dutch
Cap' woolen
<jratj
s+ock'ngseat her
sHoes
_J
Pur'tan *n da'k-sCoôred
cloth-comrnonlu;
graij brown or
hlack'grau or
qreen knftted
woolen hose'
whisk aiM
,
CClffs of Holland
o w/ri' bl<3 ck
leather shoes
wi+h spur
e#t hersfelt Hot
wth ribbon
/
band
Seventeenth Centuru;
Highland
folded
Sco-tch
Colonist's
plaid
oe.'+ed
^d
baggy breez
r
3
-
"
clothleggings ott"arfansafnron, yellow/

,_
fnen sn'rf-
doublet w'fh
wings-
S'nfrred
CiTCulqr
bonnet"'
lea-her
strap a d
purse
S'r'p ed plaid larqe

enouqh to Cover
a,,
-F'aure
d headbe 'ed at waist'
leather belt with

silver- scarlet
bodice-bloe
skirt- head
banded with
snood
s'lver
brcocobare feet
were usua
whe+ w r
rfch
or"
poor
-fwo shdiw I5 'or>e plafd

+he other solfd colorover-the saffron
When blouse'
-
woolen
cloth
sk fit-jeweled
brooch
carlu be
plat^T -pleat
sFdes
back-plo.m
ends
in
overlapped
ironf-
presumably held
+0 chest ba
bidden
belt'
saffron Ljellow
leather
purse-dirk, u
.Me*edtjed
d i> g,g ^r-cj a tj more,
ancient Celrfc,
two-edqed sv
w'rh rwo
slanting
guards
Seventeen +h Cenfurcj
Dufch
Colonist's
browri cloth skirt
with bra'd -trimblack silk

bod'ce- pleated
lingerie co
"^d cuffssheer lawn
cap wi'th
Wired edge
""a" jeweled
st'ckpfir
pouch "^d
scissors
case on
cords,
"housewi
Se+or
chS-hela
Dutch
vers fori
oT
the
Cavol'ey mode
doth capevelvet
or cloth
jerkin q ^d
bre
eches-
nbbon
4"all
"nq
loops-
Ddnd
Wlth po'rvt lace-
beaver hat
o5h"th-
wft-h
|e
other boohs
i/Vi'hh
rnuslTn boot"
hose fa protect
S*l
stbck'ng/s
one notes of the Caval'<e<^

mode,bowknots w*th
points an d safT"
j}drfers--clo+h
clo+h or silU
doubled vvWb costume-bodice
casfella-red
w'th peplum
vv'oqs
hd
flaps-slashed
sle^ve^'Velvel
""d castellated
WirtgS'bowknots
on at'ornacherbreeches
lawn run
falling band
'
wTtb cords'
beaver cap-mu5 L'n

eves
hat-silk sle
stockings
v/
Oeverrteen-rh L-entur-q
lingerie underbodice'bra'd wedged
Co
r
cn
on 51
?e
cloth costume'slashed
sleeves showfng
'
peplum--lawn
ruff with
tJes^tur bonnet
of fox^
=
cnafelcurie
or 'housewife"
Carrying
sewing
tools
cloth cape
vv'th bra" d -velvet
doublet^silk
breeches w?tb
befld "Fringe
three-tiered lawn
-ru-ff-s'ik garters
^h
d 5îoe-rosessi|k stock fngs
leather shoesleather sword

belt-felr
haf
(betrothed peasant
in party dress^<green
jerkin wihh blqck
brqid trm- red
CoWa-r^d CO
ooned
wi ntj!
yellow breeC
K ge
nd shoe-lie
blocU leathe
qreer\
si
Shoes-green
felt hat
with
entwined
n bbon
rTn^s
betrothed peasant
in party dress
costume
'"
n d reci--gree
jacket,uppJC*
lowest flou
red collar.c
a *d lower f
I
double
(aw-
ry ff- h a
iV
with ri boon
beaded ifara
green shoe
-ties^d stoc
Uaek lea+he
shoes
wj
sSev&n+e^n-t'h Cen-tury
S\A/3S
Cavalfer mode-green
da u bl ef with slashed
Colonisfs
sflk
sleeves over white
peasant
mqsl'n sVurhbrown cloth
in
dak
blue cloth ccs+Mtne
with bolero-wh'he
muslm blouse
breeches- rose
sflk garters,
a>id
shock ,'ngs arM

shoe-roses--
vnu
apron-"
Iff colored
embroidered
lawv> rolff-
panel- lawn
tan gqunflefstqn leather

shoes -black
cape- black
neck xixW"
smal| berefhafr hanging
Tn lona braid-
beaver
black leather
hat
shoes wfth
rfbbon ties
J
dam green sllkqownbraid -trim m ed- slash ed
sleeves-self
wtngs-
oger'ie <jnde,|r bodi'c2-
awn ruffHace
widow
m naurning
dress-'ull black
at except lace yoke

a
^d wfmple.'
gauntlets' headdress.c^tts,
f"r* rn
Qh>d
fur cap- yoke
black leather sleeve bands*
sboeS'pomqoder of Crepe^
suspended Cindergo^n
from waist oT brocade-
mantle
a
"d qawn
f rfm of
duU
silk--
WrAple of
sheer lawn
or
W2^k
Ifnen
huk e-'-ITloorisb
origin
dates from Hrb C-'

worn by European
Seventeen flo Centura

Flemfsb
Colonist's
women
black a *d
wbHe
especially, oi
the -Cow Countries-
costume^ cloth
populdr
orsflk wfth
a 'id
|6 Hi
If+V,
black cloth
of
lawn or -fn
rnUsIln 'Clpron
C--
edged w'tb
CTOthef lace
Wired Wi ngs
lerigth-affacVied
full
to +"'rHf
t"oc)ue
pompon^
gold a,"r^le
palatine cona
of lawn"^
lace
silU
wf-fb'
"bousew'fe
-gown of
brocade
case
yV
1
neqlTgee hoo<ze cos-Kirn
jacket (5 am are) of
blue velvet edged wffk
whf+e fur-sa+111
(.mdersleeves " n d
cuffs-clofln or
s'lk sk'rt
wT-fb velvet"
-fr'rn-bocded
palafme
of
black clofn-
r'bboh
b owk nofs
laced
hand kercoTer
__
cloth
costjme'
braided berderpalatine collar
lace
co
fl
edged-
liar, cuffs
M apron
lawn
of
or
men
sfraw hat
over a
lingerie
cap
A r?
"""
5eventeentn Century
5cand 'ncivfnn
Colonists
weal-rHcj
farmer-
Oorweg'fl 11 '
French blue clotb
skirt-bodice of
Tur-trfrvimed
loak wfth
double sleeves-
antique Ljellow
rose brocaded
belted +une with

bra'd tvim-full
breecbes-
silk
palaKne,
Fur,=
edged -
tied silk
black
o^qrVerS-
borderjcollar
a
"d cuffs -
hfl+of
felt
^d
fur
silk
orge gold
brooch-wh
wi'red Ifnge
Cdp-mu^Tin
apron-gold
Kousewi-re
set- shoes
of flesh-
5de out
leather-
's-
white* SwedTs bover

Cornb"na- ion-+bre c buf-^coat
doublet
1
ned
a
p
sk irts - underskc r
Damsh-bl^ck
l'
a na
+wo
pledtedrlbbon sash'
sbowinjj
contrast'rvj
loi ngruff- Colored
-full breecbespeacock blue
frfnêd Bi k.
s'lk bonnet
over black cjarfers-ta
lawn cap- fs t bat wltb
plu^nagei
gratj lea+ber b'rd
palatine
fl
"d
shoe 5
leather sword
be!4- shoes
of
3ht
ir
tan
eather
JL5L
_>
CIVIL DRESS
THE I8TH CENTURY

CHAPTER SEVEN
LIFE IN
THE AMERICAN COLONIES by
the eighteenth century
was one
of prosperity and comfort in
which fashion became an important
general living. Luxuries of
kinds reached our shores, not just from Europe
all
factor in
but from China and the Indies. Exquisite fabrics, beautiful china, handsome
tapestries,
sedan chairs and furniture were a part of the merchandise unloaded
from our merchant
ships.
"Fashion Babies," dolls about a foot high dressed meticulously in the

latest styles,
were sent
whims
ner the newest
to
London from
of the
up
to the Civil
among
created
War and
the
mode were
The
fashion journals delivered.
Paris once a
little
month and
illustrated, just as
we
in this
man-
today have our
envoys came on to America from 1750
one can well imagine the excitement
their arrival
women.
In the early part of the century, the American preference was for English
fashions, then
from 1760
to 1780 both English
and French were followed.
After that with the exception of the period of the French Revolution, the
French mode became the thing in the feminine world, Paris holding the
scepter ever since.
During the French Revolution, London took over
as arbiter
of men's dress, a position she holds to our day.
Except for court
affairs,
English
women
gave
much
less
thought to dressing
than did American women. Letters of foreigners of the times, especially after
the
American Revolution, comment upon the neatness
women
New
but criticize the fact that the wives of bankers and merchants of the
Republic were always dressed in the
French fashion
lovely
of the attire of our
is
latest
and
costly
French
considered to have reached perfection in this period.
Watteau gown or sacque named
126
for
style.
The
Antoine Watteau (1684-1721),
DRESS THE 18TH CENTURY
CIVIL
who
created the robe with wide back pleat flowing
from neck
hem,
to
an
is
example of the early part of the century. The hoop or "panier" was the frame-
work worn under

also
worn
made
or embroidered petticoats were
gown. The
to bolster out the floating
tinued to be long and slim,

in back.
wadded
the dress. Quilted,
stays or "pair of bodies" con-
of heavy linen, canvas or brocade
The garment was shaped with long
stays of
whalebone
bosom pushed up high. Attached
the required look with the
below the waistline were small
and laced
to
produce
to the corset
which the underskirt was
tabs with eyelets to
laced.
The hairdo which accompanied

and
ing, simple
frilled
last as
close to the
both coiffure and cap took
ruffle.
in
But
costume was charm-
this lovely fashion
flight in the
There was the elaborately dressed wig
ladies in the colonies
style of
head and usually covered by a dainty lawn cap
round the face by a lace-edged
which could be sent out
Watteau
the
to be
to the barber to
was not
to
second half of the century.
put on over one's
own
hair and
be dressed. This was a convenience to
who were without hairdressers,
a very
few
of
which
existed
New York and Philadelphia. A woman, with her head dressed for a ball, done
the night before, often
would be compelled
too, a beautifully dressed
head would remain so for
But any such arrangement of
pomatum and powder was worn

in the
life
full dress.
in
what
A real
more than
discovery was the effectiveness of
when powdering
sifted over the face
in an order for
velvet
not
in everyday
half a century.
It
complexion, added brilliancy to the eyes and was always used for
Masks were worn
and
very often
and feathers plus
only upon gala occasions

a fashion for
And
a couple of weeks.
false hair, flowers, lace
home. Hair powder was
flattered the
to sleep sitting up.
powder
as a face beautifier
the hair.
in the colonies as a bill of sale of Washington's testifies
masks from abroad
for his wife
and "Miss
Custis." Black silk
were worn in winter while the green mask supposedly protected
one from sunburn.

Varied indeed were the
many
"mob," a cap with deep hanging
At
first it
was
called the
of
sitting for a portrait.
frill,
originally
From England came
worn by
the market
"Ranelagh mob," then mobcap and
mob. Bonnets were worn upon
coming were most
caps and bonnets.
them
all
the
women.
finally just plain
occasions other than full dress and so be-
that ladies chose to be painted in a cap
The skimmer,
when
broad-brimmed, low-crowned shape of
127

was
beaver, felt or straw,
a favorite
and often put pn over a
"milkmaid fashions" which originated
or
American Colonies,
The
The
was
calash
in
Such country
cap.
England were popular
in the
especially those of straw.
first
made
of green silk, later of different fabrics
and
colors.
material shirred over whalebone or reed hoops could be lowered or raised
by a string attached
like a carriage top
to the front
and held
in the hand. This
bonnet, the very height of the mode, was adopted by the Quakeress in black
and called the "wagon bonnet."
silk
Bridal
gowns and bonnets
of costly fabrics such as brocade, velvet and
plush were of delicate hue, rarely white.
from the end
really dates
machine
shawls.
American bride
first
general use of the bridal veil
of the century with the invention in
manufacture of net and
for the
The
The
lace
wear a
to
veil,
England
wide enough for

so they say,
veils
of a
and
was the adopted
daughter of Washington, Nellie Custis. Her wedding was held on the President's last birthday in 1799,
which she wore pinned

All classes of
its
warm
men
and her
fine
wedding
in favor of a cap.
wore half-worn and secondhand wigs,
made up
tent with his
own
who wore
had
means wore
a cap of wool.
also less expensive ones of
their
a less pretentious one
wig
noons carrying wigs from house

appear in the mid-century
a cap of
Negro
slaves
white horse-
bob wig. Small
wig was not
and often was con-
fashion.
wigs especially dressed for Saturday night
and Sunday wear and the barbers' boys were
tied
of
in the preceding chapter the
hair dressed in
Fastidious persons
and many poor people,
in the simpler styles such as the
wore wigs. As noted
spurned by the Quaker
to
Men
Holland linen while the commonalty wore
boys, too,
a beautiful scarf
wore the wig although in the South with
in the Colonies
climate, great distances between plantations,
hair or goat's hair
was
gift,
to her coiffure.
wig was often discarded
the
veil,
to
to be seen late Saturday after-
shop and back again. Natural hair began
when young men adopted
with a bowknot of ribbon, discarding the bag
as
the black silk bag
soon as they grew a
length of hair.
The cocked
hat or tricorne was the masculine hat of the eighteenth century.
Generally carried under the arm, "le chapeau bras" became a sign of professional
class.
and
social
Meanwhile,
rank
as contrasted
with the uncocked hat of the working
in civilian dress in the
128
1780's
appeared an entirely
new
CIVIL
shape, the
round hat of
tall
with rolling brim, a
felt
napped with beaver,
felt
the top hat or "stovepipe" of the next century.
Hatmaking was one
New
York,
New
of the
first
of
American
men
industries with the
of
and Pennsylvania wearing domestic hats though im-
Jersey
porting most of their other apparel. By 1740, exportation of American hats to
London feltmakers
Spain and Portugal reached such figures that the

to
Parliament against the "outrage"
with,
many
as
detrimental to
home
protested
industry. Forth-
were placed upon the colonial hatmakers.
restrictions
common name
man, woman and
In this century, the "banyan" of East Indian origin was the
gown.
for a dressing
was the comfortable negligee of
It
child in the
American Colonies and
the heat of
summer,
of bright colored calico,
was worn during

and when
especially in the South, to the counting house
overseeing the plantation.
As
ever,
women
slight a change,
delighted in
became
man
whereas the
The masculine winter
some new
features of costume, be
it
in general followed the English pattern.
cloak was the greatcoat or perhaps a cape, but as cloth
scarce during the Revolution,
Dutch woolen blankets
American
officers
introduced the use of
for such garments. In the feminine
wardrobe there
were short capes for summer and long, padded ones for winter. The
was
a fur-lined
ever so
and fur-edged
like that of the opposite sex,
cloak, often with a deep collar.
was an enveloping wrap with
The
pelisse
roquelaure,
a cape-like collar.
Late in the century, ladies appropriated the smart, male redingote fashion for
wear over sheer cotton
frocks.
In footwear, clogs and pattens were not only necessary bad weather protection but
fragile,
made
it
possible for
women
thin-soled slippers. Pattens
leather straps
and
certainly
to traverse the cobbled
pavements in
were fashioned of oak or poplar with
must have been noisy because
church entrances requested their removal before entering.
notices posted in
Women
wore the
black leather shoe for everyday dress but slippers with the Louis heel were to
be had of colored kid, thin morocco and
and damask,
striped, flowered
The masculine shoe

of today in the
fastened by
brown and
in
many
and embroidered.
cowhide and buckskin took on the low broad heel
American Colonies of the
means
fabrics, velvet, satin, brocade,
of latchets
black, mostly black.
1770's.
and buckles and
By mid-century
settled
down
For dress wear there were
129
the shoe
to the colors
heelless
pumps
of

and usually black. Boots worn by
soft leather
to favor for general
heavy
dress in
wear in the
'seventies.
and sportsmen returned
soldier
Gentlemen wore
ready changed to white from pale colors in the
made
shoes of the farmer's family in the
Women
men
binding the edges. The
maple.
The
American Colonies were
still
soles
shoes were interchangeable, not shaped right and
and
is
being
hand
in
were attached by small wooden pegs of

left.
bench then used in the farmer's kitchen has today become
tor's piece
al-
cutting the heavy leather and attaching the soles, and the
women
cobbler's
had
1720's.
in his kitchen over the winter months. All the family took a
the work, the
became
preferably in gray. After 1736, white
silk stockings,
general in silk or cotton but in knitted wool for everyday.
The
light colors for
serving proudly in a
modern
living
room
as
Many
a collec-
an accessory
table.
Some
enterprising farmers set
near the house. Such
and finished
on
small, ten-foot shops
workshops, each with three or four
shoes, the parts of
And
cobbler.
little
up
which had already been
these tiny wayside shops
the very beginnings of the great
their property
assistants, soled
stitched
by the
village
which produced "bespoke orders" were
American shoe
industry.
Popular indeed was the woodman's shoe called the "shoepak," the name a
derivative of the
Lenape Indian word "shipak."
moccasin without separate

white.
sole,
was made
It
ankle-high and of oil-tanned leather, usually
heavy boot worn by loggers today in winter was
and known
as a
The working
like the Indian
manufactured
also
shoepak or "pac."
clothes
of
the laborer consisted
of
heavy linen
shirt,
breeches of striped ticking and a heavy coat of duroy, a coarse woolen cloth.
leather belt held
up the breeches which men and boys wore with
apron protecting the front. The breeches were made very
opening
flaps so that
when
signs of
wear defaced the
seat,
full
the
a leather
and without
garment could
be turned completely around.
The
Revolution, naturally, had a quieting effect in the matter of dress. All
costume ornamentation was omitted and

in favor of
mourning
homemade
articles of foreign
goods. Jewelry was eliminated and the wearing of
set aside for the duration,
black cloth having always
England. Instead, a band of black crepe was worn

hat.
The
make were banned
as
come from
an arm band or on the
Colonists took to wearing camlet lined with green baize for cloaks
130
CIVIL
instead of the fine cloths formerly imported.

cloth. In
1789
upon
the inauguration of
The men wore garments
Washington
as
York, he was dressed in fine dark brown broadcloth, the
United
silver
States, in
Worcester, Massachusetts.
He
also
president in
made
first
wore white
tow
of
New
in the
silk stockings,
buckled shoes and a dress sword.
complete reversal of
style
had begun
to take place in the years
preceding
the French Revolution, thus meeting a desire for simpler design, less splendor
and
less class distinction.
With
the upheaval, magnificence in costume, feathers,
hoops, the corset, high heels, paint, powder, beauty patches and
ties
became demode.
Paris,
discarding these reminders of the aristocracy,
adopted the silhouette of the ancient

l'anglaise, the
English frock of
with their love of country
from
life
their everyday living
all like frivoli-
Roman
soft cotton,
Republic and the chemise a
chintz and light
silk.
The English
had already eliminated formality and
and
theirs
131
was the
stiffness
dress adopted as the
mode.
_&gJ">+een+h
Century
Ke Qmer'can Colonies
double
breasted
greatcoat
<
T*d" ng coa
serge cr
kersecjrr
triple
u Ft
eaped-
hooded
*g ht
fur. ("rimmed
\Md^coaf-
cape--
stock with
lace cravat"-
Vnanon iescauf
in French'
DfthsdaV
black leot
top boots -
in Cnglish-
ofren
Imed^
ribbon
f"ur
bowk-rio^s
felt ha-thtftural n
/n
Tie-
ir.d half
of cent jrcj
collared,
circular
copenow
caileci
roquelaure
or' roquelo
"n all bright
Colors-
scoria
the
favorite
q "d colled a
Cardi rial -
of cloth, silk
or
velvet-
cocked fdt
hat- powdered
natural hair or
wiq- tight breeches
sifk stockingsbuckled leather
shaes?arlt( in
the
single -breasfe
riding Co
cap
^rr^'i
V deep
leather b
tight velv
breecheele a'nfr
spoffirdasnes
;t-
cenTory
ind half
o-f
Centura
OKjh+eeof h Cenfurq
The Omer' can Colonies
/I
the nglfsk smock

on a Vn-gmi'an
farm -heavy
wh'te Ifnen
over sh'rt "h^
waistcoatcolored
neekercbfefbrown or black
breecheskneervgh
leather
spatterdashes
over leather
huh+ing
shoes-
cJeerskm
straw
cassock'
h ? t-
U|l'
I4UJ
mid.
brown century
-ther bel+s
"d powch-
gh leather
fterdashes-
Fureap w'th
-turned ' up
p- natural
har
1733
Car\ad\ar\
or>
anowsVioes'
belhed. deersk
co,
asock--f'
bat- wools
French Canadian
costumewoolen sash
w'th poaches-'
tfohf breeches-
leggmgs
presumablq
J
rnuffler-\e
knapsackj
belts, bead-
od
p
"d ankle b
knee socks
"d shorter
sock
rolled
Woo)e
rnf+tens--
oT
I.
-tr"mrried
fureking -f
ned or
wadded w'th
1
in
fur
cotfon-rTed
of kneesle atber
5W5
perhaps so|ea!
iv'rb
.ii
wood
with iron-
778
or
J
i
ha"r-
oô a "d
axertsrfl
vyj
TKe American ColonTeS

ma" a '
1
do+K
sk"r '--.:
s^r'ped cotton
sacqê^lawn
mobcap flr>d
ifiu-musMn negnêe
apron Wi+h
b?b --cotton hoo:
s+ock'rijs "
''
o"
iA/irn
pa-f+ens w"+rt
wooden Soles'
m*d =ce-
r'bb J
sK'rt
panniers^
sflk
rvjs^g
"rf sflk
sl'ppers
'II
iilkmoia
'
iûakeress^
days
~-~
Cro-
"
rev
'
cot-fon or ciorb
ck '
Iflwr
-Fto
rion-rur'tans'
:'" or &ilk
wf-j-h paîicrf'
bi(
to'rh
-;-
a 5;'X\r\e-
back'^reen
lawn
:k s^k,
awo
-ffeWu kr:
tr,
'
aproir'
3rd quavr^r
3
sd
sl'ppers
ee-'^rn
E'ohieenfh Century
'heOim&rlcan Colonfes
wo r k rn a n
"in
cassock
sh/le-af
cloth orvelver-
somertmes
'nedwig or
nahjr<al hairCocksd hatcJr
woolen
slk or
In clorln
Cosfamebrowri or
green Cootnechral coloi
wa *st" coed""
black breec
Srr'ped knH<
sfotK'rijs--
muslm
creu
mu-Ff ler^-full
shfrf sleeves-
h a fr
md century
stwwor
m
re
haf - mfd- century
J!
coaf-
clo-ln
v
c ve+
!
b ree ches'
collar,
Ifning
ih
wofsf-coa^
mat'chfhgn gene.
li
snTrT
cravat-Vv'tf
of
black nafr
-fed
new) look
*n
men
dre55--l"fSo's'
double- breasfed
coa+ qh d
breeches
of dar k
colored cloth-"
new shaped
hot w'th band
^d
buckle-
back
powdered
W+h block
rbbor>tnercViQnT
-fob- top
v_
hafr-wa-rcb
boots
The Qmerican Colonists

dress ofapricot
negligee dress"
(j)a\teaa
Qr>d
colored
sacque
sTlK'
Iflwn fichu
peitlcoat"
undersleeves-
saim sirlyed
musl
with
self ruchio^'
worn over a
fciFfeta
apron
quilted
hoop --lace
eeve ruff |esl<3wn
in
with bib
covering
pettfcodf '
straw
cap
milkmaid
wth velvet
hat"
ribbons^
over
frilled
loger'e cap-
slfppers
2nd qu carter
of" century
velvet
nbbons-
^ 2nd
<juarrer
of century
tdflvia mantel"^
sel-fi
rue Wed --
crossed
G
in
tron-f
'M tied "n bick
forerunner
of a new
skirt over
stmoueffc
hoop -5*i Ik
pel'sse of
cloth or velvet;
beadkerchie
w'~th
lace
175-5
fur o me A o>
W add ed With
I
co-ffon-ted
"*d
atêck
bosom--ftir
muff'
s.|U
bonnet
wfth
ovb.cr. q
r'bbonIY9?
CIVIL DRESS
THE I9TH CENTURY

CHAPTER EIGHT
IN
THE HALF CENTURY
following the
westward over the country from coast
was amazing. In 1848 the
New
Texas,
treaty
War
for Independence, the trek
with the resulting settlements
to coast
we
with Mexico took place whereby
Mexico and California
acquired
in return for fifteen million dollars
and
American claims against Mexico. In the same year the
the assumption of the
discovery of gold was the beginning of the great gold rush. Meanwhile,
Yankee
clippers
and whalers were touching
at all
important world ports and
building a tremendous mercantile empire.
The
nineteenth century was
new
in
its
many
far-reaching phases such as
and
the elimination of class distinction, religious freedom, self-government
complete break-off from the old idea in

In France, after her revolution, a
many
ways.
new government immediately
to
remodel the outer face of society by adopting a pseudo-Roman
at
which men balked
women
flatly.
It
was an
preferred the English version
artistic
got to
tights
work
style of dress
silhouette but the
American
which was simple and modest
pared with almost naked look of the Parisiennes. While the French
felt that
as
com-
woman
she had achieved the classic look in transparent muslin over pink silk
and
flat-soled
sandals, our
American women appeared charming
in
high-waisted muslin frocks over opaque petticoats, as did the English ladies.
became
Petticoats
a feature of the
and mull, short of waist and

edged with
frills
Occasional pictures
of 1807 such
long
showing below the
or satin was sometimes
lingerie pantalets
slim,
worn over
in
the
new costume
skirt,
shirt.
in lawn, muslin, batiste
with perhaps several petticoats
In a variation, a tunic of velvet
the sheath in the winter.
fashion
showing below the
journals
skirts.
of
And we
1805
displayed
frilled,
find according to a note
garments were then being worn, but very often what appeared
137

were
to be a dainty pair of pantalets
Women's body
tied at the knees.
coats
and the idea
"false drawers," a pair of separate tubes
linen
had ever consisted
of pantalets or drawers
of chemise
was shocking indeed
and
petti-
only dancers
had ever worn that garment! Drawers did not become established
in feminine
dress until the 1830's.
form
Stays returned about 1811 in the
normal figure and only
slightly
of a long corset waist fitted to the
boned, while a bandeau worn over the
chemise held the bosom firm.
The
heelless slippers called
low with ribbons laced
Of
this
"Roman
across the instep
and
period was the spencer, a smart
and having long tight
sleeves. It
canezou except that
it
tied
little
Along
the
round the ankle.
jacket or bolero,
was most often
times edged with fur or swansdown.

vest" or
sandals" were of kid or fabric, cut very
of velvet in
in front
dark color some-
same idea was the
went on over the head. There was
for cotton frocks, especially in white
open
little
"hussar
vogue
a great
which were worn the year around and
under long coats in winter. Cloaks were of such colors
as
Egyptian earth, pea
green and tobacco brown.
The feminine
redingote topped by several short capes was typical of the
period and so was the witschoura which appeared about 1808. Because the
latter
was
fur-lined
it
took the Russian name, fur coats having been
in Russia. Fur-lined coats
the
became
worn
first
a masculine fashion too, thereby edging out
muff which by 1830 was carried only by women.
An
accessory of real luxury
period to be
worn
for
was the shawl which became the rage
more than
a century.
in this
Shawls though not unknown
Europe and America had never been the mode
in
from
before, the fashion dating
the return of Napoleon's armies in Egypt. Shawls were large and small, hand-
woven and embroidered,
of silk, wool, cotton, lace or chiffon.
on hand-looms in the Orient, beautiful ones were now made

Paisley, Scotland,
Although made
in France.
came shawls woven on power looms, following
East Indian patterns in which "Paisleys" achieved a high,
From
the intricate
artistic value.
The
design layout required four months of preparation while the actual weaving
on the
British
power looms was accomplished
The feminine
corset in 1819 acquired a steel
then on, the waistline decreased in girth.

a bell shape, clearing the
edge of the
skirt
was
The
in a
busk front fastening and from

slim,
ground and revealing the
stiffened
week.
Empire
skirt
changed
tiny, heelless slippers.
to
The
with buckram and often ornamented with rows

138
CIVIL
of trimming. Shoulders were broadened with
little
shoulder capes, sleeves were
and wired, shaping into the leg-of-mutton
stuffed
which made
sleeve
its
ap-
pearance in 1820. Ornamentation was rampant in broad ribbon sashes, large
muffs and shawls, shawls in
tulle, lace, silk,
cashmere, and the ever-beautiful
Paisley.
The feminine head was

most favored
and up,
coiffure
was of
modish when cropped and scraggly but the
classic
arrangement.
with curled puffs
off the ears
tightly braided
still
and looped, and
to the
The
hair
was dressed high
at the temple. Sections of the hair
evening headdress were added
flowers, strings of beads, fans of lace, velvet ribbon,
gauze or
silk
were
artificial
and jeweled
bibelots.
The Napoleonic-Egyptian campaign was
also responsible for the fad of
luxurious turbans of brocade, satin, striped gauze and velvet to which were
added feathers and
aigrettes.
the poke bonnet or cabriolet
they were
made
Bonnets were fashioned in
all
hood dominating. Invariably
of fur, plush, velvet or satin for winter
shapes and
sizes,
under the chin,
tied
and of straw or gauze
summer.
for
While French refugee dressmakers had gradually returned

slowly regained their hold on feminine fashions, English
society
in
holds today.
it
beau and intimate of the Prince Regent,
1800 to 1812.
It is
and daily clean
Bathing was something

ladies
later
George IV, from about
conceded that he raised good dressing to cleanliness, con-
servatism, a daily bath
that
having seized
was the English Beau Brummell (1778-1840) who reached the height of
It
their
France and
had made London the hub
the ascendency in masculine taste and design,
gentlemen's clothes, a position which
tailors,
to
and gentlemen
underwear once
in
linen.
new and important
Europe began
a day.
It is
their
in 1800.
One
reads that
some
day with a bath and changed
recorded that Napoleon and Josephine did
and that the French people thought they bathed too much. To use per-
fume and
toilet
as well, "that
water was one thing but to wash with water was, to Americans
quaint custom of bathing." And, apropos of a supposedly old
American custom, we can find nothing on the Saturday night bath
until late
in the nineteenth century.
In men's dress, the English riding coat or redingote of the eighteenth century developed into the frock coat or cutaway of the nineteenth century.
Though today
generally
worn
a purely formal piece of dress, in the last century

coat.
it
Pantaloons over soft black boots were also general.

139
was
With

the wearing of sombre hues, the cut of a
A marked change was to fabric in

And from
this
garment became
a special feature.
dark browns, blue and green woolen
cloths.
period on, the well-dressed man's clothes including hats, boots,
even to shoe polish, simply had to be of English manufacture.
An
affair
outstanding feature of the early years was the muffling cravat, a bulky
and very often two
one of fine white muslin under one of black
cravats,
down
Eventually, the standing collar points in the 1840's began to turn
silk.
Then
over the muffler.
bow
tie,
the muffler
smaller, turning into scarf or
by detachable
invention early in 1800 was the detachable collar followed
cuffs
and
or embroidered.
man and
The
fine white shirt held
could be purchased and completed by the

the wealthy
who had
or shirtmaker, shirts were usually
many
made
its
own
as the
spite of today's
About 1850 appeared the ready-made
among
shirt
home
frills
of the gentle-
vogue for colored day

shirts
which
seamstress.
made by
their shirts
at
mark
and partly made
home by
the
hours stitching the handmade garment.
linen cambric
latter
were made with an inserted bosom, tucked, pleated
remains so in dress clothes in
Except
Following up the
a false shirt front or "dickey."
idea in the 'forties shirts
spent
narrow
leaving the collar quite exposed by the mid-century.
An American
shirts.
grew
the "chemisier"
good housewife who
The
edges of the sheer,
used on the bosom were rolled and stitched into the nar-
rowest of hems and the unending task inspired the writing of that famous
poem, "The Song
by Thomas
of the Shirt"
Hood
(1778-1845) in which he
lamented:
"O men,
O men
Women
in Massachusetts,
dear!
with mothers and wives!
not the linen you're wearing out,
But
human
in the
creatures' lives."
home
evolved the commercial pattern of Ameri-
were forever sewing
when one husband,
shirts
had the inspiration of easing the
pattern for his wife to follow.
was
sisters
It is
From shirtmaking
can fame.
with
of the Garibaldi shirt
One
worn by
of his
task by cutting a paper
patterns to create a
first
a tailor
demand
the great liberator (1807-1882). Exiled
for political reasons, Garibaldi sought refuge in

for uniforms for his Italian Legion, he
made
Uruguay. In desperate need
use of a discarded supply of
red linen found in a warehouse and which the wives

shirts.
140
made up
into men's
CIVIL
That was in 1862 and almost immediately Ebenezer Butterick found himorders for friends and neighbors for patterns of shirts, underwear
self filling
and women's and children's

he went
so rapidly that
to
His
clothes.
New York
in 1865,
by mail, supposedly the
sold patterns
sale of tissue
of
first
paper patterns increased
bought
from England's Queen
Howe
Elias
and
commercial patterns either
all
here or abroad. Orders came in from far and wide,

sional order
a fashion journal
among them an
occa-
Victoria.
of Spencer, Massachusetts, patented his sewing
machine with
grooved and eye-pointed needle in 1848, and in 1851 Isaac M. Singer patented
model equipped with
his
a foot treadle.
Followed by the power-run machine
in 1865, later a cutting machine, button-sewing
and
a
man's
produce the entire
shirt, to
Ironically, the
really
made
the other
made
for
tically all
The
and the
in building
became
pieces
as
for instance in
to lighten the worker's
where the machines were
installed.
of mechanically manufactured merchandise
available in the
for greater
'fifties,
numbers of people.
while in the
prac-
'sixties
items of dress were to be had ready-made and in the stores.

corseted look
and
'forties,
was the fashion
to accomplish
were no
in men's dress there
worn today
dates
vital
from
it
for both sexes in the 'thirties
both sexes wore the
changes.
The standard
to accentuate the shapely silhouette.
corset.
Jeweled buttons and buckles fastened
were collared by
shirts
cravats, neckcloths
color but black satin appears to have been
was worn under the
of breeches
Waist and hips were padded
waistcoats of rich colored velvet with multi-colored embroidery.
white
Otherwise,
simplicity of their
The changeover
this period.
to trousers caused stockings to shorten into socks.
sitely fine
burden
up mass production, longer hours
a prisoner in the factory
hand the growth
fitted,
clothes as
him
possible,
article in a factory.
more and cheaper wearing apparel
Semi-made
it
machine invented primarily
a slave of
and keeping him
On
made
other mechanical appliances
still
and button-hole machines
trousers, a boot cut
The
exqui-
and mufflers
in
most worn. The Wellington boot
high of
soft,
black leather.
Topcoats grew shorter and acquired braid trimming and brandenburg

fastenings.
An
entirely
new
style
appeared in the eighteen-thirties, a box
coat of fawn-colored cloth with a shawl collar.
hat was the favorite, top hats of
remained in
for
all classes
style.
of
To
men
be noted
is
silk
Although the new black
or beaver in gray,
that the top hat
in that era.
141
silk
fawn and white
was ordinary day
dress

For the northern gentleman and the southern planter who occasionally
ordered domestic clothes, there was the custom tailor proud of his work.
An
apprentice and then a journeyman from
opened
his
own
shop to ply
who needed
sailors
his trade.
And
and often could not wait
for
frequently a southern planter wished a shipment
of cheap clothes for his slaves
As
town, he had eventually
to
But there were pioneers, miners and
coarse, durable clothing
an ordered garment.
of the ready-made.
town
and from
need evolved the manufacture
this
term manufacture meant
of the eighteen-thirties the
made by hand.
New
York and Boston, because
and prepared and then portioned out

be finished.
to
to the
factories
to farmers' wives
The sewing machine made
and daughters
possible to supply uniforms
it
army, to be followed by the enormous demand from the demobilized
troops, all this resulting in ever-increasing production, lowered prices
growth of
the
who
and
became the headquarters where such garments were
sources of cheap labor,
cut
wool and cotton
close to
and
tremendous industry. There were those fastidious persons
objected to machine-made clothes and for
them garments were
partially
machine-stitched but fitted and finished by hand.
now
In the feminine silhouette by 1830, the leg-o'-mutton sleeve had
reached
its
largest size,
over a tight cuff.
and
frills
By
The dropped
the
'thirties
Of merino
lingerie collar
underdrawers had become an
and
frill.
feminine
essential part of
wonder why the garment had not been adopted
for winter
summer, were
to fall softly
shoulder line was accented by berthas, fichus
and the high necks were finished with
dress causing one to
for
from then on gradually diminishing
before.
wear and lace-edged white dimity or colored
pantalets or drawers.
The new garment was
calico
still
quite
often false in pairs of ruffles tied at the knees. Pantalets of another style gained
a
round of notoriety in 1851 when Mrs. Amelia
New
J.
Bloomer
of Seneca Falls,
York, attempted a reform in women's dress by appearing in
trousers topped by a tunic or smock.
with a
bit of success
but
little
She
visited
full
London where
Oriental
she
met
in her native country except that full-styled
drawers have ever since been honored with her name, "bloomers."
Five or six petticoats
of the crinoline
worn under
which made
its
the full
debut in the
skirt
1840's.
presaged the coming
At
first
only a band of
braid or horsehair (crin in French), the crinoline evolved into a petticoat,
142
CIVIL
corded and lined with horsehair, and reinforced with a wide band of straw.
The procedure
was
of dressing
as follows: if in winter,
petticoat, next the crinoline, next a
wheel of horsehair and
petticoat.
The
the
finally,
starched,
white,
over that a pleated
embroidered muslin
acquired some ten yards in circumference by 1860 and the
when
corset persisted
which the hoops could be
in
the contraption wearable with shorter street dresses. This
lowed by
a crinoline
with
The
bustle
round the back from

because
petticoats
was
bustle
'sixties
bustle replaced
really a crinoline but the half
hoops ran only
women
However,
side to side.
the
fol-
and by 1869 the
the short skirt brought in taffeta petticoats

the crinoline.
raised,
was
hoops from the knees down. In the
steel
The
the decline of the crinoline began.
Americans devised the "cage americaine"
making
skirt,
a flannel
first
firm foundation!
full skirt
tight steel
corded calico
then
returned to
stiffly
was created by the
silhouette
starched
bunched-up
polonaise.
Bonnets and caps were replaced in 1860 by hats that were fastened to the
hair by long hatpins. Caps after a reign of a century retired to the boudoir
eventually were
The
chignon
was
hair
was dressed
at the
a classic
worn only by
in
elderly
Madonna
women.
style
drawn
into a large
cadogan or
back of the neck and often held in place by a coarse
and beautiful
lace, flowers, ribbon,
coiffure
net. It
and in the evening was ornamented with
gold and silver nets.
Mantles, shawls, scarfs and fur tippets were

the flaring silhouette
and
was the
still
the
mode
but newer in
full-length greatcoat with leg-o'-mutton sleeves,
broad collar and tiny waist.
glamorous note in footwear was black net stockings worn over
color. In the 'sixties
appeared high shoes or boots of very
soft
flesh
black leather,
black patent leather, kid, satin or a combination of kid and satin. Colored silk
petticoats
and colored stockings made an appearance in the
stockings with stripes running round the leg,
with petticoats to match in each

cotton and worsted for
the
common
wardrobe of the wealthy,
case.
'seventies,
some bright red and some purple
lady's best stockings
were
lisle,
use right to the end of the century.
silk
some
was uncommon,
with
Even
fine lisle thread the
in
smart
thing.
The mode
of the bustle literally
had
143
its
ups and downs, declining in the

up again
'seventies,
new
style
in the 'eighties
was the
fitted,
and worn over
the skirt
and
finally disappearing in the 'nineties.
boned basque bodice always made separate from
a tightly-laced corset.
Deep mourning was observed
women's
in
dress throughout the Victorian
Period, an influence of the death of the British Consort and the queen's long
retirement from society.
It
was not unusual for the whole costume of
coat,
hat and dress to be trimmed with heavy crepe and the face covered with a
black chiffon veil during rigidly
set
Aprons were ever present
home
"tea aprons"
lovely lace
became
and
at
periods of mourning.
but in the second half of the century
particularly dainty accessories of sheer white
lawn with
delicate embroidery.
In the 1840's the masculine silhouette took on an almost feminine

trousers very tight
and the elaborate embroidered waistcoat.
ing more and more to black cloth and the frock coat.
abroad and in America
as the
"Prince Albert," being
It
Men
air
with
were turn-
was known both
worn by
the Prince
Consort of Queen Victoria. During what was termed the "Industrial Revolution," the
power and wealth
of the middle classes increased greatly
frock coat, originally the dress of the upper
class,
and the
was wholeheartedly taken
up by "those other people" and quite generally worn. Frock coat and top hat
went
to church,
weddings, funerals and important
political gatherings too,
eventually becoming everyday dress.
The
style
cut of the coat changed
from decade
to decade.
appeared in the 1850's in the short lounge jacket or sack
garment unshaped by any waist seam. Though

it
Another important
became by 1870
a very
at first
popular informal coat and
is
coat, a straight
considered eccentric,
now more
than a cen-
tury old. Another sack version appeared in England in the 1880's, a short coat
without
tails
Americans
it
intended for dinner wear and dances in country homes.
became known
Park and for some time
The
enjoyed
"Tuxedo," because
its
first
worn
at
was always
It
by a walking
stick.
Tuxedo
greatest popularity in America.
short box coat so popular here in the 'nineties dates back in
to the 1830's.
also a
it
as the
To
of fawn-colored cloth
Europe
and always accompanied
In the mid-century and in masculine costume there
was
vogue for shawls. They were worn especially when traveling, long,
broad, wide, woolen scarfs in dark colors or plaids folded across the shoulders
and over the top
coat.
Our
President Lincoln wore such a shawl along with
his top hat.
144
CIVIL
The
top hat was surprisingly
or beaver
which appeared about
an improved model of polished
tall in
1823, but
its
popularity dated from the 1840's.
Gray, fawn and white beaver remained in fashion with the black
common
monalty. Hats worn with sports clothes were of
or straw with
felt
top hat
silk
being relegated to dress wear by gentlemen and for
and wide, rolling brim,
silk
use by the
com-
low crown
ribbon round the crown with the ends hanging to
the neck in back.
newcomer was
the melon-shaped, hard felt hat called in
England the
bowler and by us the derby, having been designed by the British hatter, William Bowler in 1850.
that the Earl of
races.
The American name
Derby popularized the
style
had
of derby
its
origin in the fact
by wearing the hat
to the
English
His model was gray banded with a black ribbon. The hat was quite
generally adopted by the 'seventies. In the 'eighties the hard straw hat or
"boater"
met with approval while the

wear and without regard
for ordinary
The steam locomotive made

places
and mountain
light colors in thin silks
topper surprisingly held
it
although not so called,
of today's "fun clothes."
only thought of for men.
and inland watering
appeared in the
first
Heavy tweed
suits
And
were
to
too, sports clothes
It
was introduced
of Norfolk, meeting with approval
Americans of both
be had, a popular and
sexes
as a
hunting
among Americans
as
taking up bicycling, this
cowboy. The
The
latter calling for
settling of the
men who
of the Spanish
which
is
staging
and Indians with

and
by the Duke
did with Europeans.
lawn
women
tennis, golf
and
feminine bloomers and masculine
American West produced the wild-riding
ride the range profited
dress evolved for comfort
it
outfit
became very sports-minded with the
to the fore as never before, playing croquet,
knickerbockers.
were
kind of sports sack coat with a belt was worn with knee
breeches or knickerbockers.
coming
'fifties,
but, of course, lacking
long-lasting style being the Norfolk suit of the 1880's, a suit

a revival today.
own
was thought, and thus came about "coun-
and washable linen and cotton
and freedom
its
to class distinction.
travel easier to seaside
resorts, or so
try clothes." Sports clothes
the comfort
silk
horses, cattle
by the centuries of experience
and the
practicability, a dress
durable and picturesque in the extreme.
And
too,
which
it
traditional
at the
same time
prairies.
is
displays a definite spark
of Americana.
Here
in America, in 1829, one reads of
"mixed bathing"
only because the rough surf was too dangerous for

145
women
at
Long Branch
to venture out

alone, but the writer noted that the bathers
were 1'completely dressed."
How-
by mid-century the pleasure of sea bathing was an accepted, healthful
ever,
men, women and children. As
sport for
late as the 'sixties three to five
minutes
spent in the water was considered by physicians a long enough time from
which
two decades of the century
to derive benefit. In the last
was accepted not
as a health
measure but
and
as a recreation
sea bathing
so thought
was
given to an appropriate costume.
From
comprising
cloth,
mind
brings to
called the
his
and
last
Her
the
This historical costume event
girl" in
her smart get-up, the charm-
was the handsome, square-jawed male
to the
immaculate, starched white linen
were known in song and story
hers, the types
entire
garment heavily boned with
steel
gown
brought in the princess
even for
street
wear.
silk ruffle called a
frou
hem
The
"dust
and whalebone. Humorists dubbed
of glove-like
fit,
gored from neck
either just clearing the
ground or
to
hem.
in short trains
underside of the skirt was finished with a narrow
ruffle."
or accordion-pleated
when
effect, the
bend or walk." This corseted figure
the resulting silhouette the "kangaroo
ruffles
produced a waspwaist
straight-front corset in the 'nineties
Skirts flared at the
shirts,
as the shirtwaist girl
and the shirtwaist man.
The
tailored suit of
decade of Charles Dana Gibson, the Ameri-
cavalier
"Gibson man." Due
women's "mannish"
shirtwaist.
"Gibson
a picture of the
(1867-1944).
artist
and
skirt, jacket
ing creation in the century's
can
came
Paris in the 1880's
frills
Taffeta petticoats were beflounced with deep
which swished and made
Women
the lady walked.
wore
quantities of
a delightful frou-
underwear
in fine
muslin and nainsook, handmade, lace-trimmed and threaded with "baby
bon" of
delicate color.
seamstress
The
who came
Most
of
it
was made by the
periodically to the
home
to
ladies themselves or
rib-
by the
"dressmake."
swan-like neck was collared almost to the ears, the collar boned and
usually topped with a ruche. In the last years of the century, the
became the hairdo. To
New
York from
creation of a Parisian coiffeur
Paris
came
pompadour
the "marcel wave," the
named Marcel who with
his curling irons ar-
ranged even waves round the head. The use of cosmetics was confined to a
dash of
the
rice
powder, maybe a touch of rouge, but never applied in public. In
summer, even on
city streets in
parasol to protect her complexion
The
New
York,
from the
woman
carried a pretty
sun.
practice of personal hygiene increased constantly in the second half
146
CIVIL
many
of the century,
daily.
fastidious people of refinement
changing
their linen
But one gathers by reading contemporary beauty hints that those same
people actually bathed but once or twice a year. In a manual of etiquette

published for ladies of gentility in the 1870's the writer advises that a complete bath once each
in his opinion
day upon rising was
was not
sufficient,
and plain water was preferable but not more
than a quart. Reading further, one finds that by the 1880's

a
bathing the eyes"
essential. "Just
many were
taking
weekly bath, the "Saturday night bath."
As
living
the century
and was
especially
drew
to a close the
installed in
among
bathroom became necessary
more and more homes
the fashionably elegant.
We
use the
because one bathroom to a house was luxurious.
which opened
elite,
in 1886 as a
in
to gracious
Europe and America,
word
in the singular
The famous Tuxedo
most exclusive and sumptuous
Club,
retreat for social
contained one hundred bedrooms but only one private bath.
The
century closed on an important note in men's dress
creases in
trousers,
an idea which had been brewing for nearly half a century suddenly took hold
in civilian attire.
The
Prince of Wales
trousers pressed four ways,

nineties creases fore
and
on the
aft as
first
his visit here in 1860
sides, front
worn by
well-dressed civilians. Trouser cuffs,
upon
British
new
his
and back. In the eighteen-
Army
officers
were adopted by
about the same time, again were
seen on British Military and again copied in civilian
147
wore
life.
nineteenth Centura
gown
of clotfi,
velvet or sflk-rlbbon borderru cWe at neck
""d wrfstsSCarf Q nd
tarr>.Q'shante
are forerunner
of coming
vogue
of
thfngs
CeiKcosti-Tch
WalkiVy
tfps-
costume-cost
I8U
of
reseda
cjreen
cloth wrth
black velvet
border ~be\<$e
frock-beige
sflk 'cottage*
on net wi'-m
black velvet
brfm-beig-e
a
o5"fri'ch
t'es
b
-ffps-lfhoerfe
ruff caned
"Bafsfe 'black 'Rornflh.
a.
sandals"
1812
mai'd 5
costume^
5trped cotton dress

chec k ed
q'nq ham
apron'
muslin Cap
wfth t'p pet
"VI
attached
Collar
buttoned
*n
fronts
black
sITppersI80O
wK're frock
cf JodCdo
tw'll muoUn-
Sqqe green
velvet Spencer
white
5" Ik
collar an d
Iape|s'tucke4
wti're sflk
borinet'block
sl'ppers^
I80O
v-*/,
Hlne'teenf
Century
V-i
coat of
gyau blue- clothbuft waistcoat
q
breeches\a'\
beige cashmere
-frock
Second
Waistcoat
taffeta
w'+h
ruchma-
brown velvet
ot
jacket w'-th
brown -taffeta
strfped slk
ruchmg -
whltebut-fu co loved
fringed be'ge
vidiig coat-'
should er
shawl - wbi-fe
neck fril
brown vel vef
bonnet w'+h
rose s|k
black silk
top hafblack boots
w'tri b-row/n
leather
fops-
-b-'ro-
1819
housewife schoolmtf'a rr r
<3over r>e?5-brown .blu<2
>
or black woof,
c ofton or silk -
ducked yoke
with frl II
scarf'
white mu si n
a "d
apron182 5"
d jr
green
claw-hammer
-ta'l
coat-black
velvet collar-
pea green
waist coaf-
fawn colored
Trousers-black
top hatnge re stock

jab of d
fl,1
collar tabsflat black
pumps
With
tfaiters1809
V.
hne+e en-fh Century
iQisley
sbav^l
Qua We ye -is
ot
PVi'\ade\p\r\'a 'n
*
l
young to
meeting
dress-all whff-
it
own
or
'
small black,
pleated
taTteta pen net-.
yellow roses /V^//,
or sflk-
f,ne
cotton
(like mull)--?
in
reds arM
Chfnese blueblack cpoundbeifle dress
wTfh plea-fed
ruffles-
rfnêd
<?hd
woolen shawl'
buds-
black
s'lk bonnet,
white sl'ppers-I8IX.
Quakeress
in
tkfn QToy silk
manHe over
iMhrhs dress
bUcW-faffe
bon nel
black
'
Slfpper.5r
I8l^
"old
fashfon
dress-Wore
tight breeches
l840s-drab
j
cassimere coat
black velvet
wa'stcoaTnanke en breeches
formfdtfble*
black beaver htwhite "sh'T^sfo^k
af
>d cravat- wb'te
"
s'lk
stock'nq
black shoessTIvef
buckles-'
"Vyj
1812-
5--
Hi rje+ee
n+h Century
l830's
froCK COCtoi
tobacco brown
broadcloth
wi'fb black
velvet shawl
collar-fawn
colored
vvaistcocrt
M trou seraover Tine

black boots-
gown
jm
of
colored
taffeta
pi
>
4,
black silk,
top haf
orândfe
collar "*d
CU-ff 5
1830
1831
flsj cost J "ne- tor

COllfna ''"d wa'k'nj-
Russfdn jreen
velvet co aftaffefa bowkno+S'
embroidered
whTfe liner:
Collar-fawn
Colored s'lk
bonnet'pink
roses-yellow
kfd giovesboots of gray
clothed
block
patenf
leather
1835"
redfnaote of
hot-He green
cloth-black
velvet cellarI'gbt
gray
trousers over
black boo+sirngeri'e Cravaf-
chqmois glovesblack sflk
too haf-1831
f^TWj
Dôe +ee ofh Cen-t-oira

CMOorner Trock
embrcu'dered
organdfe n d
black velve+ne
bodfce-sh
sk frt wi+k
CrfnokneTurkfs
pankaloon
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RtW
CIVIL DRESS
THE 20TH CENTURY

CHAPTER NINE
THE AMERICAN WAY OF
form
we
of living based
really
had
little,
on
LIFE
work and
culture,
has imposed
clothes
play. Class distinction, of
more or
less
power and
World War
class distinction as
and the wealthy people. But today in our land every

dressed
if
he wishes since mode and
piece as in the
handmade garment,
price. All individuals,
boats, tennis, golf
and
tinguish the farmer
worn by
man
II.
Fashionable
the upper class
can be fashionably
can be had in the machine-made
taste
the difference being in the quality and
on occasions, wear blue
and most families enjoy
law,
the disappearance of a servant
uniformity since
were a definite feature of
which
minimum wage
has been eliminated. Education, the
the possible rise to a high earning

class
has developed into a true democratic
jeans, sweaters
and sneakers
cars, refrigerators, air-conditioners, radios, television,
travel.
No
from the
longer can
city
man
it
be said that one can easily
by their
clothes,
dis-
speaking not of work
clothes but of everyday dress.
The family
living far
from the
city
is
able to shop out of well-illustrated
catalogues which act as salesmen of large mail order houses, a great

institution.
Not only
clothes but everything for
American
home, farm or wardrobe can
be purchased in this manner, a highly successful feature of American living.
MEN1900 TO
Masculine
from season
1910
attire
was now of
to season
fairly
standardized design varying slightly
with London the approved arbiter
slim trousers of the 'nineties acquired fullness,
gerated version called "peg-top" trousers.

156
in such matters.
The
young men wearing an exag-
wonderful new coat which be-
WOMEN1900
came
a classic
was the polo
in the British "wait coat"
The
sports
TO
1910
which originated
coat of natural color camel's hair
thrown over the shoulders between periods of
costume consisted of the Norfolk
and heavy
jacket, knickerbockers
woolen knitted hose with deep turned-down
With
cuffs.
play.
went the
this
flat
cap of ample beret crown and wide visor. This cap with goggles and the linen
made up
duster
the motoring outfit.
shoulders changed to a
Around 1910
padded
the very broad
more natural form without padding which has been
the sign of conservative dressing since.
The
sports shirt got
its start
after
World War
at the resorts
on the
Bermuda, Florida and California, when fashion-wise men on the
Riviera,
alert for
comfortable lounge clothes discovered the lightweight, cotton knit shirt of the
Basque fisherman of Spain.
It
became the polo
which by the nineteen-
shirt
twenties appeared without collar for beach wear, bicycle, tennis and golf.
big change occurred in men's underwear.
the long union suit of
lisle
or cotton
To
was the thing
the turn of the century,

for
summer, changing
one of wool for winter. The great vogue for sports introduced a
founded upon the
became
athlete's
running pants and skeleton
sleeveless lisle shirts
highly colored
and shorts of
stripes, plaids
often knee-length, were
and
prints.
shirt.
fine cotton, first
Union
new
to
fashion
Undergarments
white and
later in
suits of lisle, silk or
wool,
worn by horsemen.
Until the twentieth century, the only clothes especially designed for sports
had been
among
for hunting
college
and
riding.
As the popularity
men, appropriate
football, baseball, bicycling, golf
dress
of sports grew, particularly
was given thought
and tennis based upon
for such
slacks,
games
shirts
as
and
knitted shirts.
WOMEN- 1900 TO
1910
In feminine dress of the
first
decade was the high, straight-front corset
with long hips, tightly laced in back making the waist as small
tortuous framework.
The
as possible, a
curve lessened in 1907, the waist was permitted to
spread a bit and the top was cut lower.
The new model was equipped with
pendant garters replacing the round garter worn for centuries.

In silhouette the skirt continued to be fitted in molded form over the hips
and back,
flaring out over beflounced petticoats.
157
Dust
ruffles
faced the under

hem which was
side of the
hygienic fashion.
model
short
day
grew
will happen, the skirt
in shoe-top length, a "habit-back" of
and was only proper when worn on
skirt"
The
As
long enough to sweep the ground, a most unshorter
and an
especially
tweed was called a "rainy
a rainy day.
rage for the Gibson Girl continued unabated through this decade with
pompadour and her low
her royal carriage, her tiny waist, her beautiful

letage. "Fluffy Ruffles,"
decol-
another dashing beauty, appeared on the scene in
1906 and became a tremendous vogue. She was the creation of the American
artist,
Wallace Morgan (1873-1948),
New York
for the
who made
Herald. She appealed to most young
American type and became the model

hoped
came
as the ideal
and manners that
the dropped shoulder line, forerunner of the
War
an influence of the Russo-Japanese
The
silhouette
sion of the First
many
in dress
men
women
all
to effect.
In 1905
day.
the attractive serial drawings
instances
side to
The
and
a sleeve style that
narrowed and straightened into
measured a yard around, necessitating
held the hair in place. By 1908, a
many women
New
in
combs
York
London
well-known fashionable
enough
Bobbed hair made
at the
of
amber or
pad
tortoise shell
salon offered permanent waves
The
in 1906, the brain child of Charles
In the
coiffeur.
its
to afford the fee of
year only eighteen
first
one thousand
War
I.
This was followed in 1913 by the bob
of lovely Irene Castle, the photogenic and therefore
much photographed
room dancer who performed with her husband, Vernon

Hats were large and perched on top of
crown adding
still
more
height.
trimmed with
pompadour,
There was
ball-
Castle.
bandeau under the
a revival of the large black velvet
ostrich, a hat that the eighteenth century portrait
painter Gainsborough put on the heads of

first
dollars.
appearance on the heads of the Isadora Duncan
Dancers shortly before World
Also of the
slit
in
brave enough to endure the eight to twelve hours necessary for
the operation or rich
picture hat
knee-high
risked the operation until the second decade.
momentous invention occurred
women were
to-
which
skirt"
was the pompadour drawn up high over
or roll of false hair called a "rat." Ornamental
Nestle, a
with us
possible for the wearer.
coiffure of the period
but not too
is
sleeve,
a nineteenth century ver-
Empire mode. Thus developed the "hobble
make walking
kimono
many
of his aristocratic
decade was a popular and smart large, black straw

158
sitters.
sailor or
WOMEN1900 TO
skimmer with low crown known
as the
operetta by the Viennese composer,
1910
Merry
Widow
after the delightful
Franz Lehar.
Motorcar owners were increasing and the open touring car of the day was
having an
effect
garments such
upon costume. The unpaved dusty roads made enveloping
as the linen duster,
necessity, in fact people soon learned to
an absolute
when motoring
out of the
The high buttoned and

decade, being
this
Day
worn
It
their oldest clothes
laced shoe of the past half century lasted through
for winter,
and Oxfords and
brown with
less of a rarity.
slippers in the
stockings to
match
New, and an American
feminine adoption of the man's evening

ribbon bow.
wear
veils
city.
shoes were either black or
now becoming
silk
automobile bonnets and long chiffon
pump
with the
in
or
lisle
fashion,
flat,
summer.
silk,
was the
black grosgrain
appeared about 1904 and was considered startlingly low cut and
deshabille for day or street wear. But
it
became and
still
is,
the classic piece
of footwear after a half century.
By
era the United States
this
shoes in the world and at the
American shoes
had grown
same time the
into the largest producer of

largest
consumer of footwear.
are conceded a high position in the realm of fashion
a definite influence
on the European
and have
shoe.
Lingerie was embroidered, lace-trimmed and beribboned. Fine handkerchief linen,
and
sheer, soft batiste, all white,
was employed
and underpetticoat. The chemise was worn under the
went
set
were
sired
flat,
a full-skirted pair of underdrawers
rows of starched narrow
effect,
"falsies"
frills
and
on the
in chemise, drawers
corset
and over the
a corset cover. If the
corset cover
cor-
bosom
produced the de-
being unknown. The Victorian flannel petticoat
dis-
appeared but a heavily starched white muslin petticoat was topped by a colored
silk
one of changeable
The bathing
suit
taffeta.
which dates from the mid-nineteenth century was
a non-
revealing garment usually of dark blue or black flannel accompanied by
self-
bloomers and black stockings. The high collar was eliminated and the sleeves
were shortened
to the elbows.
159
MEN1910 to
The
1920
greater part of this decade
World War
end for the
to a successful
was given over
to soldiering
and bringing
Needless to say that any
Allies.
thought given to dress was concentrated upon the uniform. Military costume
was bound
to affect civilian clothes
which
it
did with an Italian
jacket changing to a slim fitted shape, high of waist
and a
the suit
flare,
single button
closure.
WOMEN1910 to 1920
Although we are concerned with American everyday
dress in this work,
from here on American manufacturers were beginning

Paris as the fountainhead of
new
really the instigators of this trend
couraged what has proven
The important
to
ideas.
be conscious of
to
Magazines and trade papers were
and of course, the mercantile trade en-
be big business.
events of this decade were the return to the natural figure,
the adoption of the simple
costume relieved by
unadorned frock for day wear and the
a piece of jewelry.
Paul Poiret was the
first
all-black
couturier
daring enough to place the belt directly under the bosom in true Empire
He made use of
sleeves. And his
evening
dress.
the
kimono
pattern to eliminate the high collar and set-in
was of
palette
startling
combinations in brilliant colors for
Other new notes were the slim
tunic, the
a draped skirt simulating a peg-top silhouette.

called a
harem
skirt,
met with no
ground, became a
classic
A
it
lamp-shade tunic and
divided or trouser
success. Lanvin's "robe
which was considered short because
full skirt,
style.
skirt,
de style" with a very
was eight inches
off the
surviving to date.
In 1918 and 1919 the chemise day frock rose to just below the knee, a scant
affair
with low round neck and
trailing,
panel
and we
all
train.
sleeveless.
For evening
have been living in
at the races.
they have
come
The new
was made with
tricot cloth ever since.
The
As
far
silk fabrics
earliest artificial fabrics left
much
and the new stance required very

160
little
back
as
1915
on her manne-
to be desired but
a long way, having developed wearing quality
figure
In 1918, Chanel introduced jersey cloth for the chemise
Chanel displayed costumes of American synthetic

quins
it
and
real beauty.
corseting.
soft
MEN1920
was designed of knitted
girdle
the hips.
TO
1930
elastic tricot, waistline
bandeau or camisole held the
breasts flat
high and
just
covering
and the abdomen was
form" or the "debutante slouch."
thrust forward producing the "boyish
Lingerie became very simple, of sheer batiste or handkerchief linen with

just a bit of lace until 1918
when
crepe de chine and silk jersey took over for
underwear. Silk became the thing in pink, pak blue and mauve.
vanished and a
required
it,
day frock.
silk
worn under
slim slip was
The
gown
the evening
if
petticoat
the
gown
otherwise a bandeau and a pair of silk knickers sufficed under the
And many women from
here on wore silk pajamas instead of
nightgowns.
The standard
brown stocking now changed
black or
to gray, taupe, Cor-
dovan and tan with gray the most popular. Tan stockings matched
spats
which
were worn with black pumps. White was the stocking color for summer wear.
Blond hosiery was an outcome of the dye shortage during the war. French
women
purchased white stockings and had them dyed beige or blond by a
small Paris shop,
all this
American women clung
women,
as
taking place in the second half of the decade.
to long black stockings
when bathing although French
our soldiers stationed overseas specifically noted, did not wear
stockings either with the conventional bathing dress or the one-piece knitted
maillot.
adding
But new fabrics such

interest to the
MEN1920 TO
The
as silk jersey
and awning-striped colors were
American bathing costume.
1930
slim, high-waisted silhouette of 1919
servative style with patch pockets
was modified
grew both
in
fours," as they
as
wide
as
called,
at
Cambridge and
twenty-four inches at the bottoms. Knickers
width and length with
were
more con-
and a two-button closure instead of one.
Trousers widened into "Oxford bags" which originated
which were sometimes
into a
deep
fall
over the golf socks. "Plus
was the term used by the
British
Army
because
breeches were measured as reaching to the knees plus four inches. Breeches
of white linen were popular for
Using synthetic yarns
made
the
summer
suit
summer
as the base,
use.
smart suitings of good woven texture
appropriate for city dress in the north as well as in the
south where cotton has always been
worn during
161
the heated term.
The dark
FIVE CESTURIES OF AMERICAS COSTUME

way
business suit gave
while sports
textiles
and mixtures
to lighter colors
were permitted wide
suits
An
was the huge,
in cold weather.
felt,
newcomer
packed in a
man had
in casual hats
called handkerchief
bear-like, longed-haired
attending outdoor
There were many other long-haired fur coats but
seems that everv college
outstanding American
when
raccoon coat, a favorite in the open touring car and
games
and woolen
liberty in color.
All the classic topcoats continued in fashion.

coat of the second and third decades
in all stvles
felt.
It
it
"coonskin coat."
to sport a
was the slouch hat of light-weight, paper-thin
was
firm enough to be rolled up and
soft yet
suitcase.
WOMEN1920 TO
1930
Bv 1921 the longer
skirt
was back having been eased
draping and panels but almost
at
once the
hem
up
crept
bv long, uneven
in
to the knees reach-
ing there in 1925. So revealing of feminine charms was the modish creature
that she
was
called a "Flapper"
no bosom, no waistline and

skull-shaped
felt
cloche hat.
and her period, the "'Flapper Age." There was
no crowning glorv under her
practically
Wearing her knee-length
in the thoilght that she looked like a bov.
the
hem was
again in action stopping
dav wear and bv 1930, touching the

rence,
we have had two
Within
at ten or
floor for
sheath, she
tight,
was happv
several vears the descent of
twelve inches off the floor for
evening
distinct hemlines, short for
dress. Since this occur-
dav and long for formal
wear.
The bovish form

normal by
1930.
prevailed through this period, the low waistline reaching
The
And
well, aided the desired uncorseted look.
garment was worn next
tory that
woman's underpinnings
to
New
lace
were used,
it
was
woven or
was of
time in corset
and
silk
panties, or
knitted
with
little
making
an
a
as
his-
A
all-
good
or no ornamenta-
either blond or ecru in color.
and French was the "ensemble"
tion outfit of dress
first
consisted of girdle, brassiere
substitute for the above three. Lingerie

if
for the
the skin, the chemise eliminated.
in-one foundation piece which was firmly
tion but
which was boneless
low-cut. knitted elastic girdle,
and long coat or
skirt
in soft,
style, a
combina-
and blouse or sweater. From here on
sports clothes lost their mannish, tailored look.
162
dressmaker
Of
the period
was the low-
MEN 1930 TO
1940
necked, sleeveless sports dress with a scarf or neckerchief tied loosely round
the neck.
gown
wardrobe of an ensemble,
day dress and an evening
needs of almost every occasion.
filled the
With
a basic black
the dressmaker type of bathing suit early in the 'thirties long stock-
ings were
be seen, eventually disappearing.
to
still
swim
the French type of knitted, one-piece
The
suit or a
dress
was replaced by
combination of knitted
maillot or jumper with flannel or knitted shorts of contrasting color.
radical
change in headgear in 1923 was the cloche or mushroom hat of
the French milliner, Reboux.

soft,
thin
simple round crown with tiny brim and of
usually black or beige,
felt,
it
was worn summer and winter and
enjoyed a long vogue. Relieved by a grosgrain band, or a single jewel, or no
trimming
at all,
it
the neck in back.
hugged
It
the head tightly
down
and
to
complimented the bobbed head which was becoming
general, to be followed by the shingle in 1922
shaggy bob. Though
to the eyes in front
many women
and
enough
retained
next, the wind-blown,
hair to dress up, the
small head was the smartest.
This decade marks the beginning of the present hey-dey for the manufacture of cosmetics.
Every woman, young or
to the use of "beautifiers" to
old, at leisure or in business, took
enhance her looks even
if
The
use of powder, lipstick, rouge, eyebrow pencil, eye
tion
cream became general. Repairs were
of
powder or
lipstick,
many
turned
mer sun
fair
shadow and founda-
made
in public, a bit
craze for sun bathing
complexions to a brown or "sun-tan" coloring in the sum-
or under a sun lamp. Colored nail polish on the fingers of ladies of
MEN1930 TO
the
calmly
without shocking the world.
the Anglo-Saxon world dates
By
now
naturally beautiful.
this
from
1926.
1940
time the manufacturers of men's wear were looking with envy
volume of
sales in
Elsa Schiaparelli
women's wear and
who was doing
at
finally consulted the very successful
big business in her
own American
depart-
ment. She answered that the secret was in seasonal promotion based upon
enough change each year

year's."
And
so,
to
make
last year's
purchases appear distinctly "last
taking the suggestion to heart, the makers of men's wearing
apparel have tried to do just that.

163

The end
of the 'twenties brought in "the English drape" in the masculine
one-button single-breasted coat actually
suit, a
baggy trousers had
fell
loosely over the chest.
pleats at the waist, altogether
The
dramatic change and
good-looking. By 1938 the style had been revised to the English paddock suit
with a high-front, two-buttoned closing.
popular shirt for casual wear was found in California, the "gaucho"
Made
having reached there from the Argentine.

veloped in
outside.
By
of flannel,
1935, a cotton version with side
slits
it
was debe
worn
was the most popular of
shirts
cotton and rayon, colors wild or neutral, with
silk,
for beach wear.
of the
first
tails to
For cold weather, the fisherman and hunter copied the
Canadian lumberjack
shirt
in rich, grayed colors.
Masculine underwear of today consists of skeleton
shirt
and trunks of
cotton cloth, cotton knit and synthetic fabrics. In these days of knitted fabrics
enabling one to step in or pull on, buttons have disappeared into limbo.
was
in a picture entitled "It
upon removing
most young
High
his outer shirt, revealed that
men
shoes
Happened One Night"
It
that the late Clark Gable,
he "went bare," and since then
have been minus an undershirt.
worn
in the early century disappeared.
metal or patent leather, they were worn
fall
Of
tan,
brown, gun-
and winter while low shoes or
Oxfords, laced or buttoned, were for summer.
The newer
sports
Oxford
ac-
quired a fringed leather tongue covering the lacing, originally intended as

protection
Up
to
when tramping
this
over the Scottish moors.
period American designers of ready-made clothes for
endeavored to create a real American
style
but with the exception of a few
so-called university fashions, the manufacturers concluded
rather follow the custom tailors deriving their ideas
Apropos of
resort bathing, the
sport by wearing just
attached,
wide
American male
wool or heavy
elastic belt.
When
silk
men
that they
would
from London.
finally
undressed for the
swim trunks held
secure by an
he wished, he covered himself with a beach
jacket or lounging robe.
164
WOMEN1930 TO
1940
In looking back over this decade one
struck by the wide range of
is
was now
fashions. So specialized did clothes
become
that there
costume for each and every occasion
town,
country, travel, cocktail parties,
the
little
home
a definite
dinner party, the formal evening, a design for every sport,
even to a sports spectator costume.
We
shall note the figure first because
both here and abroad the feminine
own Mae
West, she of the
sumptuous curves. Her great success was the portrayal of a
siren of the gay
silhouette
was influenced by the photoplay
'nineties in
boned
"Diamond
The
Lil."
corset rose higher
went back
to
normal and a
slightly
under the bosom. The bosom again became a feature
pushed up by a cup-like
of the feminine form, being
changed from a slouch
waistline
of our
to a firm position
on two
brassiere,
and the posture
with chest thrown out
feet
and shoulders back.

Propitious indeed were
was
wonderful a thing
as
wound
And
or covered with any textile yarn could be
in feel
and
fit
two items made the

for the
The round
woven
and manufactured
the slide fastener at last perfected
garment
of the 'thirties. Lastex
could happen to corsetry.
as
the closure problem. These

silk
two American inventions
first
into a knit fabric.

in all colors, solved
corset into a
time in
its life.
elastic core
The
most comfortable
zipper
won wide
approval as the closure for dress, handbags, household containers, in fact
wherever a trim fastening was required.
The
halter neck
evening wear.
It
was
which was designed

a bib-like bodice
round the neck leaving a back bare

suit usually of
black
drawn up on
to the belt.
and
a cord or ribbon
New
tied
and good was the dinner
black silk in jacket, skirt and blouse based upon the masculine
tie outfit.
In 1939, another beach idea was incorporated into evening
dress in the "bare midriff," an expanse of bare torso
bodice.
day and
for bathing dress entered
Modest females
filled in the
Cotton came back into
campaigns arranged in
its
New
own
between
belt
and bolero
space with flesh-colored chiffon.

in a big
way brought about by
publicity
York's Madison Avenue. Starting out with white
pique and organza with the aid of synthetics
fibers,
many new and
beautiful
weaves have been created which are especially right for summer evening wear.
charming, lasting and youthful fashion and
still
with us
dirndl skirt, full and short with tight belt, which got under
165
is
the Tyrolean
way when
New
"

York
brought several back from Europe to wear in Southamp-
Palm Beach. Of
ton and
skirt
woman
society
brilliant colors
many suburban
the perfect answer to
is
tive
garment.
the
way
It
no doubt
Schiaparelli
needs of such a casual and attrac-
re-established our shirtwaist dress
New Look
to Dior's
and often hand-worked, the peasant
"Shocking Pink" and
The
feminine silhouette.
to the
paved
of the 'thirties,
was fuchsia pink
first
The
Pink.
Schiaparelli
later,
also
in 1947.
was responsible for two striking fashions
most unflattering
and
one
called
other was the broad,
squared padded shoulders so disfiguring to the feminine form.
There was
about every
just
Eugenie hat and the most
style of hat
but outstanding examples were the
versatile doll hats, first
designed by Talbot for the
Duchess of Windsor. Veils were popular and so was every kind of cap or
From
net.
here on, hatlessness became more prevalent than being hatted. Every
was modish provided
coiffure or hairdo
the hair was cut shoulder length,
The
fashion
or a fad,
it
kept to the small head for which
making any headdress
men and women began
hatless era of
first
it
as early as the late 'twenties, a
Palm Beach.
seen at the resorts in Southern France and
grew
into a real
menace
possible.
to the hat trade
and which
has not yet been put down. There are several reasons for
we
age in which
live
the expensive hairdo which
disarrange, the closed
motor car and
it,
woman
lastly, air travel
with
A whim
in these 1960's
each one of the

doesn't wish to
its
restricted lug-
gage weight.
was
Slipper footwear
to
pump,
pump
the
of every conceivable design
predominating.
Louis heel by the high, slim
mer weather,
The
factory.
more
first
big change was the replacement of the
steel spike heel.
the blond stocking
still
non-silk stockings were
held
made
Except in hot, bare-legged sum-
its
of
own.
wood
Then came rayon which, combined with
successful in
fit.
War
war
wearing
II
lisle
and proved
or cotton,
fit
in
was a
American nylons came on the market
in 1939 but
bit
World
vital to the
and stockings furnished by the Government went only

its
unsatis-
and beauty but remark-
(1939-1945) curtailed the use of nylon yarn for needs
effort
women
quality.
fiber
Next, nylon, the finest of synthetic yarns, was woven
into gossamer sheer stockings possessing not only
able
and texture from sandal
to those
service.
"Fake jewelry" which had always been taboo
166
in
good dressing and by the
MEN1940 TO
was
real ladv,
and
lavish
first
worn without
artistic pieces to
1950
pretense in the
From
'thirties.
that time,
complement unadorned costumes have been
worn by
ously designed by jewelers and
well-dressed
women
seri-
with complete
aplomb.
summer
Play clothes were adopted by everyone in the

size or
shape at the
resorts, in
suburbia and city
regardless of age,
They included very
streets.
short dresses resembling children's rompers, slacks
and
shorts.
Underneath
might be worn a "pantie girdle" of knitted
The
tailored
costume of
elastic.
pants and jacket became standard for winter sports especially for skiing.
Navy
blue or black were the favorite colors in gabardine, whipcord or flannel. For
rink ice skating the tailored knee-length dress or shorter, with flaring, circular
cut
was the most popular costume.

For
resort bathing the
the Continent, a one-piece
wool, dark, light or
MEN 1940 TO
swim
all colors
made
II
adopted the maillot of
finally
suit of knitted or elastic fabric in silk or
of the
rainbow and unusual color combinations.
1950
The enforced curtailment

World
woman
American
and the rush
of civilian
to replenish
manufacturing during the years of
wardrobes upon the
soldiers' return
for the popularity of casual or semi-formal clothes.
battle dress
was evident
to
the suit which
was
shoulders.
drape was
bit of
still
war was
the matching vest due to limitations on
pockets, pocket flaps
War
and trouser turn-ups were
necessities created a dearth in
simply unattainable for the

shirt
came upon
present in
either a three-button, single-breasted or a three-button,
double-breasted with trousers laid in pressed pleats at the waist.

the
influence of
in the passing of the exaggerated square physique
more natural
which changed
The
home
man
at
also
It
was
banned.
shirts
which were
in this period that the
the scene, a sensation of the 1940's.
quick-drying, requiring no pressing or very
casualty of
wool yardage. Patch
white cotton civilian
home.
little,
Its
nylon
qualities of washability,
made
it
seem
a practical
wonder.
The
scarcity of cloth
and dyes put
men
into suits of lighter colors
and
combinations of colors. Slacks and tweed sports coats became the general tone
167
of dress unless a man's pre-war wardrobe lasted out the period.
smart en-
semble for instance, was the jacket of camel's hair cloth with slacks of
solid
color.
The
topcoat of camel's hair held
And
whipcord.
position
its
for a price, a topcoat of vicuna or
and
so did the raglan of
guanaco could be had and
enjoyed by the older non-soldier since the ruling did not effect such luxuries.
In the post-war period the returning vets displayed high approval of the welltailored, lined raincoat.
and favored
coat.
Of
light-colored cravenetted cloth
Also to be noted
army
the
is
is
it
still
a smart
coat of water-repellent cotton
gabardine, sheepskin lined and collared for real knock-about service.
The
popularity of the varied sport model shirts finally suggested a shirt
white or colored that would serve as an all-purpose

collar that could be
Scarfs
went
worn open
pretty wild in the late 'forties,
fabrics.
for business
colors rich
and
a reaction against the
in brilliant, garish color in silk,
stripes
worn with
and
snap brim on the wide side
and muted. The Homburg

for dress.
in
to
wide
in
dark blue or black with turned-up
Sportsmen revived the wearing of the
cap.
Myriad have been the straws for summer, hats fashioned of every
South Sea or tropical grass woven in exotic meshes or plain,
watersilk palms, coconuts, bakus and
And
mostly
The
casual
all
bound with
so-called "loafer shoe"
Norwegian
slipper
many
others to
puggree band of
was eventually
was made
clothes.
to
accompany dinner
was based upon the boot
"chukkar" or
"flight boot."
168
class.
The
wear
comfortable,
since
most
men
black patent leather model
new
style in
an ankle-high
and army
officers
and
smart
of polo players
Panamas,
color.
tailored for city
laceless slip-on.
in
available
combat the hot weather.
climbed into the staple
found they liked the ease of the
cut
wool
in solid colors.
Ribbon bands ranged from narrow
semi-sports.
brim was the elegant shape

flat
some
hat was most generally
felt
no doubt
But there were also the club and regimental
others of small neat designs,
The
with a convertible
or closed and with or without scarf.
sombre uniform. Many patterns were
and synthetic
shirt
called the
WOMEN1940 TO
1950
Perhaps the biggest story pertaining to costume in the 1940's
For thousands of years the natural yarns of wool,
fabrics.
that of
is
linen, cotton
and
have been woven into cloth to clothe man. But with the invention of
silk
century, the spinning and weaving of the
rayon in the
last
filament has
come
By
far indeed.
man-made
textile
decade synthetic yarn production in the
this
United States exceeded that of the world with Japan following in second place.
Since the last war, out of the laboratories seem to flow an ever-increasing
number
The new
female.
cost,
of synthetic fibers
which go
test-tube yarns
into fabrics for garments for
have remarkable properties such
male and
as
lowered
can be submitted to washing and drycleaning, furnish insulation against
heat and cold and are light in weight. Furthermore miracles in fashion are
evolved by blending the
with natural ones, thereby utilizing
artificial fibers
the good qualities of both.
Perhaps even more remarkable
which
is
fashioned
children.
One
all
such
manner
is
the new, stretchable synthetic yarn of
of form-fitting
elastic piece will fit
eliminating the need of so
many
garments for men,
many
sizes in a
sizes
and
women and
different shapes thus
given model.
And
stretchables give
silk
continue to hold
the luxurious feel of fitting perfectly.
But wonderful
their
own
sessed of
as the
amazing
textile strength
'thirties
rounded bosom stood
stomach and
still
toward
a smaller waist,
diaphragm control and
during the war years until Paris again
hit
her stride
"New Look" in 1947. After nearly half a century

form Madame came forth equipped with bosom, hips,
derriere, all this
Needless to say
it
which
waist and covered about the

day's use of nylon, elastic
that she
is
womanly
allure the result of
new
corsetry.
delighted the picture makers of Hollywood. There appeared
effective little girdle
ment
no matter how sheer has surpassed and
and produced the
of the pencil-slim
an
and
silk.
trend of the
in fashion
fabrics are, wool, linen
except in women's stockings. In that category, nylon because pos-
supplanted natural
The
new
rose not
more than
same space below,
and power net gives
few inches above the
this the
woman
"waist cincher," Toa form-shaping gar-
more comfortable with than without.
In 1947 while fashion was
still
in the doldrums, a
new
Paris couturier,
Christian Dior (1905-1957), a former successful art dealer, turned his creative
169

talents to
women's
clothes
and presented the feminine world with a
silhouette
"New Look." It was an instant and tremendous

success because not only did women like it but it proved to be the way that
most men liked to see their women look. Rounded bosom, small waist and
full skirt, all making for flattery and charm. And of course, it was just what
that
came
to be
was needed
to
known
as the
prod the needlework
trades.
Full skirts called for petticoats, even crinolines and several underskirts
worn together
"petticoat
fever,"
was
it
called.
In colored taffeta heavily
flounced, and crinoline stiffened with horsehair and featherboning, organdie
and white cotton beruffled with narrow

a return
embroidery and
frills,
lace, all
made
appearance reviving the obsolete underskirt manufacture.
This very feminine fashion was the inspiration for an American idea of
mother and daughter
same
identically the
met with
dresses that
success in a
young mother and her
for the
costume design made

daughter.
little
White, pale pastels and "flesh rose" were the prevailing lingerie colors but
deep hues in
Especially
violet, rose
new and
gown, and usually
chic
and mimosa yellow
also built
was black
the black day dress and dinner
corset, bras
a following.
and panties matched.
pleasant post-war custom has been the cocktail hour, calling for a short
home
evening or dinner dress for
American couturier Valentina

length" as she termed
when
faille for
up quite
woman's
Fascinating
to large hats
little
early
the
fulfilling a
it,
escort
in
or restaurant
from
'forties
five o'clock on.
the
created
The
"ballerina
need for the dressy but not formal look
in his business suit.
is
hats ranging
from
were worn principally
pillboxes, turbans, berets
and bowknots
in the city streets while the hatless creature
continued on her merry way.
The
shoes of the peoples
down
the ages gave inspiration to
modern
foot-
wear, shoe designers creating such pieces as simple or extravagant as any
woman might
wish.
The
resulting styles ranged
to the slim, steel spike heel
The most
"bikini"
from moccasin and sandal
and baby French heeled pump.
abbreviated of bathing attire finally reached our shores in the
from the French
Riviera.
It
put in an appearance in 1947 and 1948
with a few inches added to the French original. As a

fact, the bikini, consisting of a
sleeves
it
was
fleeting, in
narrow bra and a narrow G-string, appears
have created a trend toward a more covered-up look.
oped with long tight
style
New
models were devel-
and low back. Many were made with

170
to
a built-in bra,
MEN1950 TO
1960
others with an all-in-one foundation especially in the knitted maillot model.
And many
were planned with a wrap-around
dining
skirt for
at the
beach
club or restaurant.
MEN1950 TO
The
1950's
I960
can really go
The gray
suit history.
the decade especially
down
flannel suit
among
as the
was
the Ivy
gray and black period in masculine
bloom
in charcoal
at the
beginning of
League university crowd. Then
it
was
reported that black sports clothes were sighted on the Riviera, next in California and the East, followed by a
news items
From
in
London and
or
"tawny black" with colored specks or
America
just
that did
it!
of 1952 that black
then on
cloth
all suit
stripes, all of
was being worn
seemed
to turn black
which
lasted here in
about a decade.
There has been enough
sartorial
change in men's wear in
period to
this
suggest that the manufacturers' campaign to get the male into something
each season or yearly has borne
away being replaced by

League look. Slim
fruit.
The draped
suit
with wide lapels passed
slimmer, natural silhouette, an influence of the Ivy
trousers, natural shoulders
and narrow
lapels
on
unshaped coat without padding have been the marks of the
League
It
a straight,
so-called
Ivy
based upon the traditional, conservative elegance of Bond Street.
suit
has been
new
worn throughout
the century by
some
Yale,
Harvard and Prince-
ton men.
The
Ivy stronghold
now
is
being besieged by the Continental look, an
American version of the above Edwardian
style.
two-button jacket
shorter than the Ivy with a slight waist suppression and a
away
front. Breast pockets
and
lapel buttonholes
is
slightly
more rounded
were eliminated in the
cutfirst
models but quickly replaced when the absence of these features was found
be a drawback to the future of the design.
The matching
vest
is
to
again being
supplied by manufacturers.
Color has again come into the picture with the increasing use of patterned
cloths in glen plaids, herringbone tweeds
of blues, the
new
and worsteds
golds and olives along with grape or
in heather mixtures
plum
hues.
In the past few years the men's wear market has been flooded with cloths
made
of synthetic fibers,
namely wool and cotton plus some linen and

171
silk.

The
first
objective of the
second consideration
makers
is
produce a wrinkle-proof cloth and the
to
in texture, others resemble linen or silk.
known names
Some
the washable, drip-dry advantage.
is
advertised,
tagged with a label listing
and under
its
There are
are wool-like
dozen well-
at least a half
law every garment must be
a recent
principal fibers. Traditional seersucker also be-
comes wash-and-wear with the blending of synthetic yarn.

In line with the general trend towards lighter-weight clothing one hears
less
and greatcoats than of
of overcoats
are shorter
and
sportier.
topcoats. Topcoats are not so formal,
Strong patterns appear in the cloth of the short
coat,
and rough textured tweeds. For
also camel's hair, fine gabardines, coverts
suburban wear and bad weather in town there are
pile fabrics of
man-made
or pure wool fibers, deep and rich, knitted and woven. Pile fabrics are also
made
into double-breasted ulsters, short "British
coats
with leather trimming. Colors run
The
well-styled
wash and drip-dry
raincoat
men and
is
and sweaters
also a great traveler.
have appealed
to
summer
for winter or
men. Very
one of the most successful
is
very often used the year round
is
and exceedingly smart but natural and beige

Jackets
finger-tip length
and black.
to nutria, beaver
newcomers. The conservative town version

by some business
Warms" and
White and black
are
newer
are the prevalent colors.
in white
light in weight, they are
and
in synthetic fabrics
no longer impracticable
because easy to clean by washing and are also spot-resistant.
Evening wear has reached an informal

the natural easy lines of the business
fibers
suit.
way
closed cars heavy fabrics have given
blended with wool and winter-weight
jacket with dull, black satin shawl collar
dinner jackets having usurped
stage,
Because of central heating and

tropical
to
silks.
was
formal wear after dark, good-looking jackets are

batik prints,
all in
Quite a few
toned-down
new
The
new
made
worsteds,
man-made
charcoal gray dinner
note in 1954. For
less
of multi-colored cotton
colors.
fashions have been set by the college
man, some
like the
raccoon of the earlier years were pure college fads. Some, like the Norwegian
loafer, spread
to
and
the outside world
campus came the smart combination
into the business office.
of sports jacket
and gray
From
the
slacks.
Shorts and slacks share honors for casual wear, golf, beach or whatever,
according to season. Bermuda shorts, those impeccably tailored breeches,
news on the
streets of
New
York City
172
in the
summer
of 1953.
And
made
quite a
MEN1950
TO
1960
few brave young men attended country club dances
in shorts
with dinner
jackets.
The white
shirt
is
the classic shirt but color was
still
decade so that even pink became permissible in the
on colored
in this
Probably the run
can be laid to the popularity of the gray and charcoal gray
shirts
Another
suit.
office.
rampant
which has appeared
shirt
in the office these several past hot
and open meshes. Of the
the short-sleeved shirt in cool weaves
summers
is
1960's are
combination sports
and shorts printed with dazzling, colorful
shirts
motifs from South America, the Far East and India.
The
hatless
male by 1950 had become
wear
their lot.
The
it.
and straws were given
straws were banded with

further dressed
was
flat-topped crowns.
silk,
in
as the
female
an attempt
to
much. In the next move,
More
casual felts
and fancy
cord or braid in deep, rich color and some
up with Tyrolean feather ornaments. The biggest change

as far as
looks go, was not a change for
the better. This being a study of everyday dress
Homburg and
derby, the
problem
did occasionally buy a hat but did not
success but not too
narrowed brim, which
in the
fedora was re-designed with narrow brim and a lowered tapered
crown which met with some

felts
men
Like women,
much
banded together
of the species to hatmakers so that they
improve
as
we
shall pass
by the elegant
the top hat.
Sports hats were re-styled in suede, velours, tweed and other rough mixtures.
By
1956, the
hatmaker displayed no qualms
southern and western ten-gallon hat and giving
in attacking the traditional

it
too a flat-top
crown and
narrowed brim. In 1958 one finds crushable summer straws available
panama,
tissue
Milan,
split
macora,
and with snap brim. The peaked

in
new
flat
with even the boater made softer
raffia,
cap
in
very
is
much
in style
and developed
shapes adding dash to men's dress in plaids, tweeds and colorful cloth
or cotton.
As
to
neckwear,
monotone
scarfs too
have narrowed and in pattern are
or brilliant as the wearer
The shoe
story of the
last
loafer
the former blacks
subdued,
might wish.
decade
fits
to stress the leather rising to the ankles
Norwegian
as
and chukkar models. As

and browns.
173
in here
with design continuing
and tapered
toe,
especially in the
to color, olive tones are replacing
WOMEN1950 TO
Up
into the twentieth century, everyday dress in an everyday family usually
meant
that last year's best
was acquired
piece
1960
became
"Sunday
for
For the
best."
new
everyday wear while a
year's
this
woman who
own
did her
housework, there has always been the simple, inexpensive cotton dress of
calico or
gingham.
was the
It
suburbs until the nineteen
And
sports.
"at
thirties
home costume" on
when
slacks
When, during
farm or
in the
became popular
shorts
for
and shorts took the
then, as the hired girl disappeared, slacks
place of the cotton frock.
the 'thirties college students of the
University of California began wearing blue
denim pants or
appeared on every campus in the country and
at
"levis," blue jeans
home.
Levi Strauss think that his well-made work pants would ever
Little did
grow
and
the
which had been the
into a country-wide fad but they did! Blue jeans
western cowboy's leg covering for nearly a century were adopted by the
feminine world
When
as well.
Levi Strauss went to California in 1850 as a
gold prospector he prudently decided to
denim
re-inforced with copper rivets at crucial points.
so desperately
needed that he made
panning for gold.

forth
make work
was
And
his fortune
pants of indigo blue
He
doing
supplied a garment
just that, instead of
he also became famous for his product which hence-
called "levis."
In golf and tennis the former suit and dress have been replaced by
and the newer above-knee-length termed Jamaica shorts which are
shorts
worn with
the
kilt.
Golf shorts
to season but the tennis outfit
is
may
be of woolen cloth
the shirtdress, has been
more
woman's wardrobe. Sheath, Empire

but the shirtdress
still fits
well into
is
or.
cotton according
invariably white and definitelv without
Ever since the turn of the century, the shirtwaist
name
Bermuda
ever with us.
or less a perennial
by
American
or dropped waistline
And
American everyday
dress, or
its
frills.
modern
style in a
may come and go
the peasant dirndl skirt, as a separate,
dress in cotton, silk or
wool and hem
line
high or low.
The
in
controversial chemise or "sack"
Vogue Magazine which
dress length.
Though
it
which appeared in 1954 originated
pictured a striped-round sports shirt knitted to
drew upon
itself
the most scathing criticism,
survived as a smart, comfortable and easily packed garment in
The
has
all fabrics.
tailored suit of the decade has been a youthful, straight
174
it
and short
WOMEN1950 TO
which was
jacket with simple skirt
1960
Chanel creation of the
a pet
'twenties.
After an absence of fifteen years she returned to the haute couture in 1954
bringing back her
little
brilliant silk print.
The
accented by matching blouse and lining of a
suit
revival proved a
huge
success!
sensation of the 1960's was the tailored
town
introduced by the
suit
American designer Norman Norell. Culottes which give the
worn with
flaring skirt are a skillfully-cut trouser skirt
The
jacket.
cleverly concealed division
is
climbing in and out of the present low
The knee-length
public.
effect of a slightly
pull-over or blouse and
when
a real solution for the wearer
cars, in fact
skirts necessitating
when
active
anywhere
in
such a solution came into vogue
in 1957.
"Frankly fake furs" became fashion news around 1950. Designed primarily
with the college
girl in
mind, the manufacturer has so improved his product
to the point that designers are successfully using the synthetic fur cloths in
makes the garment
The
saving.
of
as
cozy and protective
as the real pelt
krimmer and other
as small as
steadily of late,
insulated
and
at a
lining
tremendous
short-haired furs.
to hats they are fashioned in all shapes, fabrics, furs
crown and
many
one might
And though
desire.
hatless ones are
still
and straws, large
hat-wearing has risen
to be noted about
town.
novelty of the 1950's was the dress-up sweater created by the American-
who
French couturier Mainbocher
War
An
greatcoats.
imitations are available in Persian lamb, broadtail, moleskin,
beaver, sealskin,
As
and handsome
short jackets
sophisticated
II.
lined
He revamped
in
coiffure of the 1950's
slight wave.
shape.
paillettes,
women wore them
The
As
say once a
at the
to
New
beads, braid
Palm Beach, Long
York
little
World
after
jackets, chiffon
and ribbon embroidery.
Island
and European
resorts.
was predominately bouffant, cut short with but
Both chrysanthemum and artichoke are words descriptive of the
of 1961, the
head
'twenties, a rather trim cut
color any
home
knitted sweaters into fairy-like
and sparkling with
Society
returned
women may
is
have any color she wishes, she

is
may do
may
in,
even change
surprised or wonders. She can have

it
home
at
successfully.
brushed or washed
or lasting only to the next shampoo.
175
in,
it
There are many
coloring kits on the market under the headings of rinse,
which can be combed
of the
with hair curling over forehead and cheek. As to
month and no one
beauty parlor or
becoming more soigne and reminiscent
tint,
it,
done
safe
bleach or dye
the color being permanent,

An
important part of everyday dress
is
the useof
make-up which from the
commercial angle has become big business. Taboo a half century ago, every
woman
today from highschool girl to grandmother
of lipstick as essential to her dressing for the day.
at least applies a
Most women
coating
are artists in
achieving a natural effect with cosmetics, except for some lipsticks and nail
enamels which occasionally are arbitrary colors applied for accent. The use
of cosmetics
most
men
is
no longer
expect their
deep secret but simply a matter of grooming and
women
to the beauty salon at least
to avail themselves of
once a week
176
is
every
beauty
aids.
woman's custom
The
visit
in America.
Twen-fieYn Century
1900-1910
<goWn cf fucked
|fnen
a,1 <*
lace-velvet
r'bbon belt-Straw haf
vv'th
ro565'
l?00
:'
î
sfn^le.- breasted
sack
Suit-'
gray cloth
With f'ne sWrpe'
pea A gray
-fedora-bow
-f-fe-black
shoesIÔS"
j
j^FUfy Ruffles;
short top coot
OT reddish
brown clo+bsTnped brown
<a
styli'sh
created by
LOaWoce THorân' JT+*&%
dark blue ^
Sto&Ste
SSi^tfW
y
-frouaeri-brown dertujblack
-tailored suft'
shoes-
fluffy reathersblack [Dumps5*1 K

vvht+e
sfoc k frigs
1907
Qrnerrcan miss
wb"+e shfrtwabtha-f-
^L
wi'tK
r=?~r
\,
wenTieTh Century
ac k
whfks
5c of en
b
nd
rwead-wh'-l'e Ifnen
shi'Trw/aTst '
-
C7scot"-Ke'
^r'rvqed
yellow
Ctfshrnere
scarf- -han
leather
gaun+lefsblack silk
saflor bat-'
whife sf!k
sfockf ngs'
an 4 brown
t Jn
avi'aVion
cuff rr of
leatber-lined wf+h
camel's ha'r-
smock'
breechespdftees over
shoes'
cap-
1919
1910
black
golfer's suit"
offweedftill
sh'rred
back-Cap
of camel's
bair clofn-
*cj
wh'fe. -For
te nni's-
permissible
m ++io-rseason
aays
fhe repor+er
f dre^s-oe-vyg -
bvown shoes
l^lo
~J
'
Twe r>T
e fh Lentury
I920's
i
ôlf
5CJt
of tweed
vuftb
"plus four
the.Title
breaches'
black dress--trepis de
SpOTtskut--
cV>i
-fburm-
pleate d Tloun
scarfs
Mack
panfl
Cl
felt
cloche wfth
gresgrai A
r'bbon baod-
bege suede
5ll
pc003
blond
stockingsblack
iaj
hand
ma
nd
h tte
buckskm
shoesWools n
hose-
pW
19 2-8
sandal519^6
the' ensemble
of -the pe-rfod-'
black cloth
"M skfrtbe'ae cis+rakan
coat
1
ri
rvj
be'ge crepede ckTne

blouse
lA/fth
6^5 co f +"'
-front
pleats in
skfrtblock
felt cloche
eatber
envelope
bag^
19^
the
MCCOOA
"
coonsK ,n
Of
d
coatbeloved
01 the
college man'
"0<ov-d bag"
trouserselouch hat or
'h^ndkerchfe?
felt-
19
3.
~^V
/=^~r
\^
wenfiein Oenturcj
193 O's
woman took
+0 slacks
count
wear -sn'rt
oi
shorta-
Wne Color
basket weave
o ccas?o nalUj
cot+oh-
complete
Su'f'dark
blue woolen
Slk rnutfler
cloth- blue
beret -whfte
at>
d
shfrt
Ci 5 eot êwb'te backsk'^
brriirarif
bewje flannel
slacks w'tlo
pleat's- at
Waist-- tan
suede
shoes
shoes
d'm^l
skirt'
har-dc
loomed
charcoal <3 mi^

Ifnen with
rnulti'- colored
borderwhO'ii
Cotton
sh'rtwcii'ot^
brfll'aot'
sflk
head kerchief
polo COClt'
r\cftuia\
color
cornel's ha!'
cloth-
hom
but+onsself belt
wfth leat-her
bucklebrown slouch
hat- brown
cal-r shoes
,f?-rV
Twen-Keth Cent arjj

19+ O's
D'or
Hew
's
JZook
of 19 4-7"- curves
Qr><X "f'ny wflist'--
blackcTofh **d
accordion
pleated d^rk
green {aNefaMack suede.
be.lt- green
velvef beretblacfc
pompon-
black suede
pumps
su bur ban
casual
dress--
natuval -fan
proesssed
coRon haf
^d iackersl'de ibsteriet'
Tan cordurou
slacks b'ue
whrfe checked
''"d
flannel shfrt-
red wool
scarf-brown
mocca sn
5hoes9*fo
wesieyn leisure
dress rounded
upon
-the
S p a n f5 W
cnav ro(.cowboy)
s-f^le-blue
denim lev^s
q id
jacket-
slfde fjsfener--
checked
shfrl--
abbrevr'ated
scarf-black
-pelt
sombrero
boors19^8
cos+n
me
for after skr
wear-
btack
v/elvefeen
slacks
w-|-h
velvet frTnges+eel studded
suede
belf
fucked whTfe
bloase -colored
ch'ffon gcarfsue* de
s Tp
I
pers-
9^7
P'x-T-x^J
/en-he'Th C&nJrUYtf
5(jut
of
raspberry
pfnk wool
-rhe
con+'roversio
5Wff ,cWemfse
sacque
blaek
or
ot sflk
bonn e-k-
or
syn+he+fc $abr"c
wool
v^WeV
tutulus
black suede
col'+ori
pump s--
bouffant
I95~b
co'ffure'
blor>d gloves
flr
>d
stockings-
black pumps-
the chcinfie 'n +he

masculfne silhouette
-frorr) I^ST) +0 \J<oQ-
narrow shoulders,
30c kef an <* +r-ousersreturn of trie vesl'
narrow
5 c<3 r
1-
t>i'mmed.>dowo slouch
hat-'
al*rrt
higrwfsfe
MZ
tapered
shoes
CHILDREN
I6TH-20TH CENTURIES
CHAPTER TEN
16TH
IN
AND
17TH CENTURIES
THE PORTRAITS OF CHILDREN
in their rich dress-up clothes look like

their elders
were trying
too. In the
homes
of
to
make
of earlier centuries the tiny figures
dwarf
European upper
classes, infants
and
that
was not unusual
understand as well
as to
From contemporary
and
speak several languages.
merchant
style
came about
in the Renaissance with the
families, especially in the cities.
a love of finery that in earlier times
since costly clothes
old.
to study
for a child of four or five to be able to read, write
Dressing children in adult

increase of wealthy
were often put
one learns that education was concentrated upon so early
letters
it
were what
adults
of them, not only in appearance but mentally
under tutors and governesses when about three years

diaries,
And
adults.
had been
Thus developed
And
accessible only to nobility.
have ever been the outward sign of affluence,
it
was im-
portant that the children be as richly dressed as their parents. However, in-
doors "en famille" the garb consisted of a coarse, unbleached linen chemise
or
smock which was the undergarment worn under
the
handsome
dress.
This undergarment whether of linen or woolen cloth was the sole piece
of
underwear worn by men,
women and
came
body garment for
babies,
it
the "gertrude," the
name
still
to be
children of both sexes.
known
the Great," an abbess of Nivelle in Brabant

for
in the thirteenth century as
new
in use today for the flannel petticoat of the
baby. Research reveals that a Saint Gertrude of
was famed
As the general
who
German
lived
183
was "Gertrude
from 1256
having received supernatural visions but
always have worn a woolen piece of underwear.
birth
to 1311.
certainly, too,
She
must

Dress-up clothes were for occasions of entertaining and visiting and like
those of the adults, were of satin, velvet, brocade and occasionally of white
worked with gold and
satin
silver thread.
buckram glued
inforced with
to
the under side,
consideration except as a protection for the
The
coif or
Since the heavy fabrics were re-
gown
underwear was of
little
in touching the body.
bonnet of linen was always worn during the Middle Ages
indoors and out because
was considered wise
it
to
keep the head of a child
worn
covered, a thought that applied to adults as well, the coif being
for
centuries.
Little boys
dressed in the
wore the incongruous busk-front doublet and
stomacher of the period. There were the same dark
stiff
principally green
and brown, and the same hard, board-like
colors,
corset underneath.
Corsets in those days were of heavy, boned canvas or of "cuir bouilli"
was boiled
lasted into the eighteenth century in
Colonies was that of dressing
both boy and
little tots,
"breeched."
It is
amazing
to find
of children that one cannot

elaborate frock as protection
front, often of sheer linen,
tell
when
same ankle-
when
they were
studying the contemporary portraits
boy from
was worn
Europe and the
girl in the
length dress. Boys wore the dress to five or seven years
girl
except by name. Over the
a "pinafore,"
an apron pinned
to the
embroidered and lace-trimmed.
Swaddling clothes or "bands" were what babies were bound up
the
in,
encased in a sort of pocket with board back, of quilted cotton cloth
ornamented with
feet
which
leather.
custom which
new baby
were
little girls
frills
and elaborately embroidered. The
were held in place and the
child's
head by
ears held close to the
hands and
its
cap.
The
contraption resembled the American Indian's packsack for carrying around

the papoose.
One
could carry the child on one's back, could place
back in the cradle or hang
fashion of the days
was "hanging
in
back
as a
child.
worn
in
sleeves."
on the
when
An
fashions lasted for a
hundred
extra pair of sleeves often slashed,
of the Renaissance,
Europe and
it
its
years or
more
hung unused
woman
or
carried over into the seventeenth century,
in the Colonies.
children's dress especially
on
wall.
purely ornamental feature of the rich costume of man,
mode
come upon
it
it
Hanging
sleeves
on the very young. After
it
were seen longer

passed, one
in
would
the expression in literature of the eighteenth century, "hanging
184
CHILDREN THE 18TH CENTURY

sleeves" being applied to
an infant or an elderly person signifying either
childhood or second childhood.

In Europe, England and America there developed a tendency to brighten
youngsters' clothes with touches of scarlet, a color
the subdued Quakers.
It
became
which took hold among
a favorite accent especially in linings that
revealed themselves as in capes and sleeves and in ribbon bowknots and
tassels.

was
It
England
in
in the first quarter of the century
when someone had
the inspiration that boys should wear sailors' trousers. English
seamen had
been dressing in pantaloons since the seventeenth century and English boys
adopted trousers a half century before their fathers did. English children were
the
be emancipated,
first to
1770's
little girls
changing
with France and the Colonies following next.
Some well-known
writers
had taken the age
confining infants' bodies in tight clothes,
philosopher (1632-1704),
He was
1775),
to soft, unlined frocks in the
who was
to task for
among them John
its
manner
of
Locke, the English
probably the big influence in the change.
followed by Jean Jacques Rousseau, the French philosopher (1712
who
on the crusade and was forced
carried
to flee Paris for
England
because of his revolutionary ideas.
Although the change over

breeches were
The
worn
still
writings of the
Age
to trousers occurred early in the period,
for dress as can be seen in
skirts
little
portraits.
of Reason were having an effect in putting children
into comfortable clothes, the trouser costume

dress being a short
contemporary
knee
known
as the
English
sailor's
jacket over an open-necked blouse, a waistcoat without
and the long breeches.
The
little
girl's
and short or long
frock was usually a sheath of muslin with round neck
sleeves.
From
the 'seventies on, the floor-length skirt slowly
shortened to the ankles revealing the soft
little
slippers of kid or fabric instead
of the earlier, heavy buckled shoes.

Infants'
baby
also
swaddling clothes lasted well into the eighteenth century. The
owned
a complete set of dress clothes
which were worn
for the
christening ceremony and any other public occasion. Such garments were
185

made and
exquisitely
beautifully embroidered.
good four
bodices were invariably a
The
feet in length.
skirts attached to the tiny
Yellow was the
traditional
color for the christening dress with embroidery in silk, or gold for an "upper
class
baby."
CHILDREN-THE 19TH CENTURY

The
two decades of
first
were the period in which the Empire
this era
fashion raised waistlines of mother, daughter and small boy
up under
arms. This basically classic style regardless of the age in which
always charming and
artistic.
It
the most appropriate of
is
costumes ever designed, especially for
little girls.
And
so
it
the
returns
is
children's
all
must have thought
Kate Greenaway (1846-1901) when she chose that particular period for her
lovely illustrations
which we
Playclothes were
made
shall note in the 1880's.
of muslin
and nankeen. With
their
long pantaloons,
boys wore short jackets, a soft blouse and a round-brimmed hat with a ribbon
band. During the wig period of the preceding century

dress a boy's hair like a
wig and dust
it
it
with powder.
was not unusual
Now
to
the hair was
cropped instead of the former tortuous curl-papers, curling iron and pomade.
Little girls
were freed of the boned,
corset body,
and
dress sash-bound in place of lined silks
muslin
soft
velvets.
was worn under the slim frock and
slip
wearing instead a
as the style shortened, frilled,
lace-trimmed tubes or "false pantalets" tied at the knees were designed as
modesty pieces
journals that
to conceal the legs. Occasionally
had come
legs featured in this
that females
do have
1858, that
is
into existence, such illustrations shocked
new
legs because
it
by the
1830's,
both young
girls
fashion
many
manner. Seemingly, folks grew accustomed
did wear drawers. But
custom in feminine
noted in the
to see
to the fact
and
women
required a quarter century for the garment to become
dress.
In America the fashion prevailed from 1818 to
the fashion of pantalets showing below the skirts.
From
a con-
temporary fashion note we learn that pantalets for day wear were of nankeen
or calico and that those
worn during
a period of
mourning were
of black
crepe.
Here
in
America during the
first
quarter of the century caps were
186
still

worn
in the house
and outdoors by children and women. Upon going
out, a
hat or bonnet of straw or beaver, according to the season, was put on over the
cap and tied under the chin, a very becoming fashion to
The
females.
cloak was called a "wrapping cloak" which had a cape collar.
trimmed or
intended
narrow
all
lined with fur
winter wrap,
as a
it
it
was
a pelisse. Usually of scarlet cloth
When
when
was wadded and lined and often edged with
were wrapped in long cloaks of merino, pains-
strip of fur. Infants
takingly and lovingly embroidered,
wadded and
and edged
lined with soft silk
with swansdown, a baby's garment for most of the century.

In the 'twenties the waistline went back to normal, skirts grew fuller and
puffed sleeves appeared in the leg-o'-mutton

simplicity of the earlier
and trimming
with
all
the
as the
mode
to as
way
here on into the
design in costumes was
doomed
Another garment was added
The
carry.
lawns, percales and gauzes gave
From
ruffling, ribbon, ruching,
embroidery
garment would hold. Hats and bonnets were decked
bowknots they could
deeper colors.
much
Fashion swung from the
style.
dainty white and tinted muslins,
to organdie,
and
in
fussiness.
to the small boy's
wardrobe
was the costume
tunic or smock, belted at the waist. This
taffeta
decade of the twentieth century
first
to clutter
gingham and
in a knee-length
in all-white linen or
merino that American boys were put into when "breeched," an event which
usually took place about the age of four. Boys' sleeves were as diversified in
shape as were their
sisters',
slim, full
and leg-o'-mutton. They wore caps and
hats like their fathers', even to the topper.

trousers, short jackets, waistcoat
known
to
Americans
as the
The
and white
boys comprising
suit of older
shirt
with lay-down collar was
"Eton" because worn in Eton College, England,
since that time.
During the Romantic Period
in the
1830's
there
was quite
dressing boys in historical costume, especially in Europe.

in doublets, hussar tunics, Spanish dress, the
The
Van Dyck
They were garbed
style
and Turkish
trend in America was for the Scottish kilt and the sailor
influence of
Queen
Victoria's love for
a flare for
suit,
too.
both an
Balmoral Castle and the baby Prince
of Wales.
All legs whether of boy or girl were covered to the ankles by trousers,
pantaloons which were those fulled or shirred
Another feature of the
1830's
was the apron
187
at the ankles,
for
little
girls.
and
One
pantalets.
reads that

those of fine white muslin, white cross-barred cambric and printed calico
were not
telles,
whole edged with
the
The
aprons of
as fashionable as
crinoline ranges
period for
silk,
made with
green in color and
bret-
self-ruching.
between 1840 and 1865 and was the silhouette of the
females large and small. Like that of the grown-ups, the crino-
all
was
line of the 'forties
a full petticoat corded
and
stiffened
The
was
also bolstered
French word for horsehair
braid.
crinoline
starched skirts over one of flannel. In the
hoops held together by

cage in Europe.
wearing of such
It
tapes,
was very
crin, the
by several
the petticoat of wire
an American invention called the American
weight and a wonderful
light in
muslin underskirts. By the
a clutter of
was being pushed toward the back

Regardless of full
came
'fifties
with
'sixties
relief after the
the skirt fullness
in the trend to the bustle of the 'seventies.
were
skirts, pantalets
in the picture but very often
still
they had turned into long frilled drawers. Stockings striped round the legs
in bright colors
flat-soled
sides
came
vogue for boys and
into
strap slipper, while for outdoors
with
ladies not blessed
curls,
kept the beautifully brushed hair in place.
woman's
desire yet
The Madonna
some
girls
center part
wore
an ankle-high shoe with
elastic
frame the Victorian
round combs and ribbon snoods
Long
their hair
came
into the
Victoria's headdress, a
bonnets continuing
faces.
grown-ups appeared
in girls' dress as well, a
crushed sash.
The
bustle effect.
The English name
ruffled skirts
wore
was every
cropped like their brothers'.
mode with
In the 'seventies and the early 'eighties, the
'seventies girls
hair in those days
was copied from Queen
fashion of several decades. Bangs
of
Shoes for both were the
was proper and popular.
For young
to
girls.
mode
of the Basque bodice
long waist encircled by a wide,
were bunched up
for the period
in
back giving a panier or
was "tied-back time." In the
either black or russet leather button shoes usually with
long white stockings. In the 'eighties the black or brown shoes were accompanied by stockings to match.
Small boys went from petticoats into "short pants" cut
off
above the knee
but sometimes wore kilt-pleated skirts until about six years old. While in
skirts, it
was not unusual
but the curls were cut

tears to the eyes of
for boys to
when
many
the boy
wear hanging
curls
and perhaps bangs
was breeched, an occasion which brought
a doting mother.
The young men wore
laced shoes but with black ribbed stockings.
188
black or rust

A
baby's trousseau or layette of the nineteenth century
a robe, muslin petticoat,
The English term
was composed of
woolen undershirt, underwaist and woolen body band.
for cap or bonnet
was "biggin," the name of the cap worn
by the nuns of the Dutch religious society of the Beguines which the modern
baby cap resembled. The cap was of cambric or wool. Cloak and dress
were
and covered with
easily four feet long, everything lace-edged
embroidery.
The
color of the christening robe
and pale pink for
skirts
fine
hand
was now pale blue for boys
girls.
In 1886 appeared the book "Little Lord Fauntleroy" written by the Eng-
lish-American novelist, Mrs. Frances
Hodgson Burnett (1849-1924). The
book was responsible for an enduring vogue of boy's clothes in the

the Cavalier or
Period
worn by
the
and many an American youngster
pelled to
wear the black
satin sash,
who
artist
secretly hated
him
velvet suit with deep lace collar
The
of the story.
illustrated the
for being
com-
and red or black
long hair and a picturesque plumed hat.
As mentioned
was
earlier, it
in the 1880's that
drawings of children met with tremendous

books and cards which were
style to
young hero
were the creation of Reginald Birch, the
pictures
story,
Van Dyck
style of
own
her
taste
first
producing
costumes were simple,
artistic
Kate Greenaway's charming
success.
In her
little
birthday
published in 1873 she adapted the Empire

little
figures that appealed to everyone.
designs that were
more
The
suitable to little tots
than the current over-decorated mode. She became famous in Europe and
America and her
little
boys and girls have
the small pages and flower bearers in
The
and
sailor suit
was
come down
to us in the dress of
wedding pageants.
a fashion of the
end of the century for both boys
Boys wore the tunic with long pantaloons while
girls.
tunic with the kilted skirt.
The
suits
girls
wore the
were made in blue or white serge for
winter and of French flannel, linen or duck for summer.
The apron
in school
and
or pinafore continued as part of girl's dress,

at play,
and
a very special one, sheer with lace
for dressy afternoon affairs. Girls
eighteen,
on
which meant
until that age.
turned up
just
at the
were not supposedly adult
worn
at
home,
and embroidery
until they reached
that the waist-cinching, back-laced corset
was not put
Hair was dressed hanging until seventeen or eighteen, then

nape or thereabout. Skirts were the
below knee-length
teen and full-length
real telltale of the age,
at twelve, calf-length at fourteen, to the
when
the hair
ankle at
was dressed high on the head.

189
six-

1900 to 1920.
layette of the
With
new
baby,
Quite a piece was cut
from neck
is
used
hem
to
it is
at least in
off the
as
of their lives, a fact that
now
hold to any one pattern. At

girl's dress
girls
wore
styles for
garments, the
new
length of twenty-seven inches
is
a family heirloom.
But babies are
would have made our forebears shudder.
began with play "rompers."
it all
wore
the length of dress, coat and petticoats.
they formerly were, sometimes living almost bare the
Children's dress was
six
century came a change in the trousseau or
because the christening robe
summer
And
new
seemingly short indeed. In some cases where a long robe
no longer swaddled
first
the
specifically designed for children
least clothes
were simple and
and did not
childlike.
small
covered her knees and her waistline was placed low. Tots under
baby
style, soft, full
shirtwaist
and
frocks shirred to a tiny yoke.
skirt there
and under, the
that age
Though
a lingerie blouse or "guimpe."
sailor
costume or "middy" blouse, the
and
worn over
Accordion pleating designated a party
about 1908 for everyday wear small
instead of drawers
school-
were three popular and almost uniform
Russian tunic with pleated skirt and the jumper dress of navy serge
From
The
petticoats.
The
legs of
girls for
dress.
play wore bloomers
American children were
still
encased in long stockings although socks were coming in and being covered
by leggings in winter. Cold weather always called for high, buttoned or laced
shoes and in
As
summer, Oxfords and
to hats, the older miss
strap shoes.
wore youthful versions
of
grown-up
fashions,
securing the hat to the hair by means of a long, vicious looking hatpin instead of the chin-elastic of childhood.
It
was in the hairdo that teen-agers went fancy
or side part most
young females wore long
or dressed the front hair into a
on the
subject of bowknots,
pompadour and
suit
either center
flowing hair or long braids
tied
it
with a bowknot. And,
this
just
one
was followed by the Dutch cut with
trimmed bangs.
Like their
With
wide ribbon was the thing and often not
bowknot but two big bows. All

straight,
curls,
free.
sisters
boys also dressed in sailor
suits
and the Russian
resembling the Russian blouse was the American Buster
with wide starched collar and black
silk scarf.
Buster
Brown
Brown was
tunic
a popular,
small hero of a Sunday newspaper serial which had quite a following

190
blouse.
among

the youngsters.
The
older boys wore knee pants with tunic or short jacket and
about 1910, one notes the Norfolk jacket with knickers and white
and
accompanied the Norfolk
tie
was custom
outfit. It
adopt trousers in their teens. During the

stockings were
season.
worn with
And on
The
American boys
for
decade long, ribbed, black
caps with peaks.
flat
knitting fever of the
war
years carried over into civilian
and
of the 'twenties but in soft yarns of lovely colors, in sweaters
life
Children's clothes were
to
high, laced, black shoes, or Oxfords according to
the head, sailor caps or
1920 to 1930.
first
Collar
shirt.
now
caps.
designed with knee length skirts and knee shorts,
both garments growing shorter and shorter. Boys took to wearing flannel,
tweed and serge
suits
by the beret and
with
also the
shirts
and
scarfs like those of their elders,
topped
were of gay
fabrics
peaked cloth cap.
Girls' dresses
with flowered, striped and spotted motif. Most
and boys had

soft tams.
their heads cropped.
And
all
whence the name
1930 to 1940.
tailored
and
wore
had adopted short
socks, including the
all
seemed quite perfect in the

were short and
so
ages wore the classic Chanel suit while boys had a choice
clined to be dressy, the English
and
clothes ranging
1940 to i960.
in
if
suit of short jacket, vest
you please! Under the smart
tiny tucks, smocking, piping
over-all simple effect.
more
a derby,
Eton
and
if
he were
(when
little
from
Youngsters
now had
and
coats girls
still
hand-
fine pleating yet retaining the
quite a wardrobe of play or sports
basic rompers, sun suits to
There are
in-
of self-
dresses of crepe georgette, voile or crepe de chine exquisitely
worked with
lots
'thirties,
were a young man's
of the older style business suit, the Norfolk with knickers
wore party
younger teen-agers,
of "bobby-soxers."
so simple in line. Dresses
fabric), trousers
their hair short
Small misses wore the beret, the cloche and
Little folks' clothes
breeches. Girls of
little girls
snow
suits.
dress-up clothes in the youthful wardrobe but
exciting are the school
and
sports outfits.
Young
people
now
live
an age calling for simple, casual tailored garments, smart-looking yet
thoroughly comfortable and really fun-clothes. Such dress has settled into a
pattern.
For both sexes there are principally sweaters, pull-ons,

about jackets, shorts, slacks and for
girls,
191
all
kinds of knock-
the attractive dirndl skirts, and
all

kinds of outer coats of varied length practical for sports and school wear.
In tailored suits
boys.
And
it
the Chanel
is
which
the raincoat
Extremely smart-looking,
it
is
model
is
and the rough tweed
for girls
no longer what
more
utilitarian
for
raincoat used to be.
than ever, serving as a
all-
around coat of water-repellent cotton or wool with removable linings that

button, snap or zip in or out according to the needs of the weather. Winter
coats are lined with thick, fuzzy synthetic pile that feels
And
there are blue jeans or levis for roughing
and
it
and looks
like fur.
accessories too
numer-
ous to itemize.
There
a current
is
1958, called a
vogue for a gay, youthful negligee, new in 1957 or
Muu-Muu.
It
who had
female student
cotton house wrapper
was
first
worn
in a mid-western college by a
been to Hawaii.
It
is
American women wore
a hot climate version of the
home
at
century. Missionaries carried these house robes of calico
Hawaii
to clothe the
cut neck
and cut
in the nineteenth
and gingham out
to
naked pagans who liked the bright-colored cottons but
off the sleeves for comfort.
Mother Hubbard of the westerners has come
From North
young
Bay, Ontario in the 1950's
And
so,
in that fashion the
full circle as the
came word
that
Muu-Muu.
young mothers
have discovered with surprise and great pleasure the wonderful convenience
of the cradleboard used by the Indian mothers for centuries.
campers are making use of the "tikanagum"
to
it
perfect for car use too, the
riding in a mobile cradle.

local Indian
women. No
leather thongs
piece of
The packsack
little
is
nails are used, all
in origin
and
age.
192
their backs.
when
They
passenger evidently enjoying
pure American, being
wooden
made by
parts tied together with
and the whole gadget ornamented with
Americana
seems that the
transport the baby
walking over the rough ground, wearing the contraption on

have found
It
lace
and beads,
a true
Sfxteen +
b,
Cent-dry
J
silklunic
dncjers/eev/es
a "d border
black silk"
wkffe (awn
puffs-red
embroider ed
Inert cof
figured,
M apron'
elo+h
stockings'
black
befoe "frocked sleeves
w'th
embroidered
shoes'
J-fq|dri'
m otT>
qreen an d
l5"-fh C.
crnktoide^
on sk'rt-
green doth
stoclMn^s-red alfppe-rs
J+al fanla te
5"+K
baby
in colored
annel di
over a l'n<
i\
ch(5>77isei<5+h
C.
Dutch
V+n -frlple
paff 5eanr'ngsI!t-irl&_3lrj in
re d -bodice
blue a,
red -sk'rt
n&ckjaceqlrd
a^tirs blae-'ôkeûTT
ar,
d apron of white lawn"hoase wffV on cbafn ir<ile5erman- lfc+K C
|e
wtn
pomander
Jfaliatv
R-rw'
\6+hC,
'
fSeTen-reen-fn
Cen^y
Colore
lace cap-bee-*
collar a "d C
apron -orange
o" sheer !7nen-
croche-f"or bra
bbor>
id
onsk'rt-'t'oCj
ornaments^
Spanish
"houseware*
b-iskef w'th
[black velvet
racketbreec
sWk'ngs, 3
rTbbori-
S<">d
frl
siDDeJ apron
f7fM
rosettes
bodlcernantsou
bacK-
gm
brown-whi
pu^s
sflk
embr-o'dered
lawn
collar
a,
>d
cuffsnglsh
boa-
ired
sleeves
of
froeUred
bra'd -white
>vj
puffs-collar,
undersleeve^.
aoren
a,,
a\
bodice
4
.
1
le
Vlot
dres? wi+n
draped
cversk'rT
fonfang/e
headdress
of lawn
n d lace--
whfre
apron"'rer,cn
6
rt<
J^j
"M
?T
V,
(r\,
princessatu re blue mofr-e gown-m-Mt^jJ

at
back- Vandujke lace -apron
c\
silk fi'ssue
-Cnglish
First Half
umpeT
5ui+ of
brawn
linen of
kerseymere
collar
frTlls-whfkz
cupwf+h
j^y
black visorblack pumpsvxh'j-a socks-
+een-aê boy
dark blue
-frockcoat-Bt-andervbur^
ijst'entn^s-
-t>odsersor black
bbe
topper-
Sfik
iS
58
boy
navcj
blue +unicleyo-tDunor)^
s|e2ves--
pe^l
bu+tons-
brown
iroaêrs
black
shoes
lSH-0
,JrKbluCSU' +
J
C
wHh
vested
"Trousers^
stiff eolld'"'
blwe silk tie-
iS^-o
Scotch dress wtr>

b\uebonne+
lor smal> boy^
pleJ+e<A sk'ri--'
WAsN
sandals--'
irm-q's
O'nefeenfh Century
doub|ef-kfjf
&porr ai f
Bloomer
dress of
s'lk or
trousers-cloth capleafher v'sor-ISTf
bonnef
W irh
/
wffV>
woolen coa+'
border-
spv
wadded
of kea+her,
pleated bonnet
black shoes "^d
lSS*t
tassels-/
5"!
W^ 'A
Slenga
Cord
atrdle
tunfc-lin'je.r'e underblouse- striped ticking
badger
nen-
Russian
style'embrofdered
boy's dress-
biij s ff'gklaid'
dress- far tann-
Second Half
î
wg
st-ookCngs-IST '^
f'%2
%i
f
^p}Y~f'
fe\-i
C\.
V4
black veU/ef with

needlepoint lace'
fringed red s'lk
sashblack lUte

stockingsblack
pumps -silver b<J c kle%JL.'tflcJ lord
Lm
-frock of silk
Faunf-leroL/-l880s
mull a "d lace-
^m
rose slk sash-'

kate Greenawayl
gxVthddy
Book-ISSOS
t
r/~
f
bustle
silhouette
fr-ffed bodice-;
short cqpefel-r
SHV.
haf
wff-n
ostrich'
vÂ
bljck
sfockinas1335"
"6ton~ suit
dark blue or
dress of
striped flannel^
sfrdwhdt
with ribbon
^nj flowersblack shoes
nd socks-
Jack velvefeen-
whrfe mus|1n
Jb-louse^d eyelet
embroidery Safin
tie-black shoes
und stockings'
ISô's
Un d lace -c^'na s'lk

Ifn'oa -cof+ori
intefliiiln j -Inyo's
:
-fujenKe + h Cent-uvj Boys

blue serge 6ui+
\a6 -flamn*! +u"" c
.h?J-efUnriel
sun"
d'ckej-
silkscflr-f'blatj*.
poteol- leaHie
Bre+"o"
black
shoes a "d
Is)-
decadV>
6u<sfer
Dvowri
SuH
oT
striped
waole r
doth-
bloom?
stfffco
sflk SCO
bl^c-k
do
fop shoe
st deca
paf" -turned
wool^sluJe
sweater
With vvjoole^
brOwnorjreeo-195-o's
BIBLIOGRAPHY
BIBLIOGRAPHY
American Indians
New
The
World
Sixteenth
Edited
Drawings
Century
Contemporary
Writings and
New
and Annotated by Stephen Lorant
York,
1946
The George
Catlin Indian Gallery
Smithsonian
Institution,
Washing-
ton, D.C., 1887
Indian Biography
B.
B. Thatcher
North American Indians

land
George
New York, 1900

Catlin2 Vols.Edinburgh,
Vols.
Scot-
1926
The League
1
Lewis
of the Iroquois
H. Morgan
Vols.
New York,
901
Lillian Davids FazziniWisconsin, 1935

The BooI{ of Indians Holling C. HollingNew York, 1935
Costume Throughout the AgesMary Evans, A. M.Philadelphia,
Indians of America
1938
Charles WisslerNew York, 1940

Feathers in a Dar^ Sky Ray WilcoxNew York, 1941
Aztecs of MexicoGeorge ValliantNew York, 1944
Nation's HeritageNew York, 1949
Red JacketLast of the SenecaArthur C. ParkerNew York, 1952
Indians of the AmericasNational Geographic Society, Washington,
Indian Costumes in the United States
D.C. 1955
American HeritageNew York, 1961

Concise Encyclopedia of Archaeology Leonard
Indians
The
Cottrell
New
York, i960
Military
Histoire
du Costume en Trance
Encyclopedia of Costume
Vie Militaire au
James
Moyen Age
Paris, 1875
Robinson Planche London, 1876
RenaissancePaul LacroixParis,
J.
Quicherat
et la
1877
Le Costume Chez
les
Fr.
Peuples Anciens et Modernes
Hottenroch
1884
M. A. Racinet6 Vols.Paris, 1888

Uniforms of the United States Army H. A. Ogden and Henry Loomis
NelsonWashington, D.C., 1890
Le Costume Historique
203

The Centennial
N.Y.
The
1802
of the
to 1902
Tar
British
United States Military Academy
London, 1909
Arms and ArmorMetropolitan
son,
West
Point,
Vols. pub. Washington, D.C., 1904
Fact and Fiction
in
at
Commander
Charles N. Robin-
R.N.
New York, 191

The Boy's Boo\ of Famous RegimentsH. A. OgdenNew York, 1914
Arms and ArmorMetropolitan Museum of ArtNew York, 1915
Notes on Arms and ArmorMetropolitan Museum of ArtNew York,
Museum
of
Art
1916
Captain
The Kentucky
Rifle
John G.
W.
Dillon
Washington,
D.C.,
1924
1925
National Geographic Magazine
Uniforms
of
to 1960's
the American, British, French
Washington,
D.C.
and German Armies
New York, 1926

Histoire du CostumeJacques RuppertParis, 1930
A Short History of Costume and ArmorKelly and SchwabLondon,
Charles
M.
Lefferts
1931
Das Ehren\leid
Martin LeziusBerlin, 1936

185J to 1900John A. KouwenhovenNew
des Soldaten
Adventures of America
York, 1938
Uniforms of the
British
Army Cecil
C. P.
Lawson
2 Vols.London,
1940
Soldiers of the
Todd Chicago,
erick P.
Album
of
Army ijj$
American
to 1954
Fritz
Kredel and Fred-
1941
American History
James
Truslow Adams
Vols.
New
York, 1944
Hand Cannon
to
Herschel
C.
Logan
West Virginia,
James LaverLondon, 1948

ReviewMilitary Uniforms Gessler and Schneider Basle,
British Military
Ciba
Automatic
1944
Uniforms
Swit-
zerland, 1952
Picture History of the United States
Freeman
New York,
The American Heritage

ton
New York,
Navy
Theodore Roscoe and Fred
1956
Picture History of the Civil
WarBruce
i960
Lt. Col. Frank Wilson Canada, i960

Great American GunsWill BryantNew York, 1961
A History of Firearms Harold L. Peterson New York, 1961
Regiments
at a
Glance
204
Cat-

BIBLIOGRAPHY
History
The
Sixteenth
New
World
Drawings
Edited
Century
Contemporary Writings and
and annotated by Stephen Lorant
New
York,
1946
The
Story of the Greatest Nations
Edward
S.
and Charles F.
Ellis
10 Vols.New York, 1901

Harmsworth History of the World 10 Vols. London, 1907
Encyclopedia Britannica nth Edition New York, 1910
National Geographic Magazine 1925 to 1960'sWashington, D.C.
Fun\ and Wagnails New Standard EncyclopediaNew York and LonHome,
M.S., Ph.D.
don, 1931
Album
of
American History
James
Truslow Adams
Vols.
New
York, 1944
/
Remember
New
Distinctly
Agnes
Rogers and Frederick Lewis Allen
M.
New
York, 1947
The Conquest
of Culture
D. C. Crawford
York, 1948
New York, 1949

Women Are Here to Stay Agnes Rogers New York, 1949
Life In AmericaMarshall B. Davidson2 Vols.New York, 1951
Divided We Fought 1861-1865 David McDonald New York, 1952
The New Dictionary of American History Michael Martin and Leonard GelberNew York, 1952
Year's Pictorial History of America California, 1954
The Loo\ of the Old WestFoster-HarrisNew York, 1955
American Military History i6oy to 1958 Headquarters, Department of
Pioneer America
the
Carl
W.
Army, Washington, D.C,
The American Heritage

ton
Drepperd
New York,
1959
Picture History of the Civil
War Bruce
Cat-
i960
The Concise Encyclopedia
of
Archaeology
Leonard
Cottrell
New
York, i960
Life Magazine
Civil
Great
Battles of the Civil
WarNew
York, 1961
Costume
Costumes
Cesare
et
Modernes
French Translation,
Paris, 1859
Anciens
F.
Vecellio
Vols.
1590
Revised 1916
Encyclopedia of CostumeJames Robinson PlancheLondon, 1876
XVII" SiecleInstitutions, Usages
CostumesPaul Lacroix Paris,
Costume
in
England
W.
London
Fairholt
1846
et
1891
The Eighteenth Century
France
205
Paul
ijoo-iy8g
Lacroix
Paris,
1876

Empire
Directoire, Consular et
Le Costume Chez
Paul
Peuples Anciens
les
Paris, 1884
Modernes Fr. Hottenroth
Lacroix
et
1884
Little
Lord Fauntleroy
Frances
Hodgson Burnett
New
York, 1886
London, 1886
Le Costume HistoriqueM. A. Racinet6 Vols. Paris, 1888
Customs and Fashions in Old New EnglandAlice Morse Earle New
Kate Greenaway Birthday Boo^
York, 1893
Two
Centuries of Costume in America
Alice Morse EarleNew York,
1894
Alice Morse EarleNew York, 1899

Home Life in Colonial DaysAlice Morse EarleNew York, 1899
Godey's Lady's Book^Magazine 1830 to 1898 Philadelphia
Peterson's Magazine 1840 to 1898 Philadelphia
Social New Yorf^ Under the Georges Esther Singleton New York,
Child Life in Colonial Days
1902
Albert
Die Trachten der Voider
Kretschmer
Munchner Bilderbogen, Zur Geschichte
Munich,
CostumeDion
Schneider
English
Leipzig,
1906
Braun
Kostums
des
und
century
late 19th
London,
Clayton Calthrop
1907
William Henry BakerNew York, 1908

Dutch New Yorf{ Esther Singleton New York, 1909
British Costume During XIX Centuries Mrs. Charles H. Ashdown
A
Dictionary of Men's
Wear
London, 1910
Le Costume
Civil en
France du
XIW
au
XIX
Camille Piton
Siecle
Paris, 1913
M.
History of Everyday Life in Britain 1066 to 7799
Quennell
Elliot
Life
London, 1918
Wor\
Life and
and C. H. B.
of the People of
London,
and Wor\
16th
Century
Hartley
and
iyth
Century
Hartley
and
England
1925
of the People of
London, 1928
CostumeKelly
England
Elliott
London, 1929
Early American Costume Warwick and PitzNew York, 1929
Mr. Currier and Mr. Ives Russel CrouseNew York, 1930
English Children's Costume
Brooke and James Laver London,
Historic
and Schwab
Iris
1930
English Costume
Laver
New
14th
through 19th Centuries
York, 1937
206
Iris
Brooke and James
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Mary Evans, A.M.Philadelphia, 1938

Historic Costume For the StageLucy Barton New York, 1938
The Language of Fashion Mary Brooks Picken New York, 1939
Accessories of DressLester and Oerke Peoria,
1940
Ciba Review Children's DressA. Varron April 1940 Basle, SwitzerCostume Throughout the Ages
Illinois,
land
History of American Costume
Elizabeth
McClellan
New
York, 1904
and 1942
Elizabeth Burris-MeyersNew York, 1943

Pacemakers of Progress Harold B. Quimby Chicago, 1946
Everyday Things in American LifeWilliam Chauncy Langdon
Vols.New York, 1946 and 1948
Dictionnaire du CostumeMaurice Leloir Paris, 1951
The Loo^ of the Old WestFoster-Harris New York, 1955
Ciba ReviewMen's DressH. Schramm January 1958Basle, SwitThis
Is
Fashion
zerland
Pageant of Hats, Ancient and Modern
New
Ruth
Edward Kilgour
York, 1958
The Importance
of
Lawrence
Wearing Clothes
Langer
New
York,
!959
Art Books
Myrtle D. McGrawNew York, 1941

Fol\ ArtAlice FordNew York, 1949
Children in Art Metropolitan Museum of ArtNew York, 1950
Children's PortraitsBettina Hurlimann New York, 1950
Child PortraitureF. M. GodfreyLondon, 1956
The Child
in Painting
Periodicals
Vogue
Harper's Bazaar
Fashion Digest
Fairchild Publications
Ciba Review, Switzerland
Gentleman's Quarterly
Time
Life
New
New
Yort^
Times
Yor\ Herald Tribune

207

Five Centuries of American Costume

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Books by R.

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

1963 R. Turner Wilcox

PUBLISHED SIMULTANEOUSLY IN THE

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS BOOK

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

To Ray and Ruth Wilcox

been worked out principally in

research, the execution of

deep into antiquity, history and the

a study that leads

art of all peoples.

fascinating to begin with the

American Indians and

were not always garments

wear but some form of body decoration has

and reshaping some parts of the body

has succeeded by taking from nature,

changed down the

The American way

nose and mouth, despite

and discomfort continue

for vanity's sake even in our supposedly enlightened

of dress has not

for other peoples to wish to copy

adaptability. "Casual dress"

of historic everyday apparel to

present this collection

those interested and

a subject as dress costume.

the predominant note of our everyday dress

any people anywhere in the world

in the design of costume.

any hour of day or evening where

day and age. So the

Americana. Simple, comfortable and wherewithal smart,

The Mayan CiviliThe North

Armor, Crossbow and Arrow

Spain of the i6th Cen-

Helmet and Iron Skullcap

MILITARY 18TH CENTURY

MILITARY 19TH CENTURY

Color in Uniform Discarded

Hair and Whiskers Shortened

Dark Blue Frock Coat

The Civil War

American Confederate Machine-made Shoes

Stable Dress of the

Puttees, a British First

MILITARY 20TH CENTURY

Khaki, U.S. Army, 1902

Camouflage and the Jungle Suit

U.S. Dress Manual, Navy, 1959

Traditional Sailor Garb Retained

The Air Force

THE COLONISTS 16TH AND 17TH CENTURIES

English in Virginia, Delaware and the Carolinas

DRESS 18TH CENTURY

Caps and Bonnets

Fashions Precede the French Revolution

DRESS 19TH CENTURY

The Country Spreads West

French and English

Top Hat of Polished