Home Pork Making, by A. W.

Fulton 1

Home Pork Making, by A. W. Fulton

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Title: Home Pork Making

Author: A. W. Fulton

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Home Pork Making

The Art of Raising and Curing Pork on the Farm

A complete guide for the farmer, the country butcher and the suburban
dweller, in all that pertains to hog slaughtering, curing, preserving and
storing pork product--from scalding vat to kitchen table and dining room.

By A. W. FULTON

Commercial editor American Agriculturist and Orange Judd Farmer,

assisted by Pork Specialists in the United States and England.

New York and Chicago

Orange Judd Company

1900

Of all the delicacies in the whole mundus edibiles, I will maintain roast pig
to be the most delicate. There is no flavor comparable, I will contend, to
that of the crisp, tawny, well-watched, not over-roasted crackling, as it is
well called--the very teeth are invited to their share of the pleasure at this
banquet in overcoming the coy, brittle resistance--with the adhesive
oleaginous--oh, call it not fat! but an indefinable sweetness growing up to
it--the tender blossoming of fat--fat cropped in the bud--taken in the
shoot--in the first innocence--the cream and quintessence of the child-pig's
yet pure food--the lean, no lean, but a kind of animal manna--or rather fat
and lean (if it must be so) so blended and running into each other that both
Home Pork Making, by A. W. Fulton 3

together make but one ambrosian result or common substance.--[Charles

Lamb.

Copyright 1900 BY ORANGE JUDD COMPANY

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

Pork making on the farm nearly a lost art--General merit of homemade

pork--Acknowledgments.
CHAPTER I. 4

CHAPTER I.

--PORK MAKING ON THE FARM.

Best time for killing--A home market for farm pork--Opportunities for
profit--Farm census of live stock for a series of years.
CHAPTER II. 5

CHAPTER II.

--FINISHING OFF HOGS FOR BACON.

Flesh forming rations--Corn as a fat producer--Just the quality of bacon

wanted--Normandy Hogs.
CHAPTER III. 6

CHAPTER III.

--SLAUGHTERING.

Methods employed--Necessary apparatus--Heating water for scalding.

CHAPTER IV. 7

CHAPTER IV.

--SCALDING AND SCRAPING.

Saving the bristles--Scalding tubs and vats--Temperature for

scalding--"Singeing pigs"--Methods of Singeing.
CHAPTER V. 8

CHAPTER V.

--DRESSING AND CUTTING.

Best time for dressing--Opening the carcass--Various useful

appliances--Hints on dressing--How to cut up a hog.
CHAPTER VI. 9

CHAPTER VI.

--WHAT TO DO WITH THE OFFAL.

Portions classed as offal--Recipes and complete directions for utilizing the

wholesome parts, aside from the principal pieces--Sausage, scrapple, jowls
and head, brawn, head-cheese.
CHAPTER VII. 10

CHAPTER VII.

--THE FINE POINTS IN MAKING LARD.

Kettle and steam rendered--Time required in making--Storing.

CHAPTER VIII. 11

CHAPTER VIII.

--PICKLING AND BARRELING.

A clean barrel one of the first considerations--The use of salt on pork

strips--Pickling by covering with brine--Renewing pork brine.
CHAPTER IX. 12

CHAPTER IX.

--CARE OF HAMS AND SHOULDERS.

A first-class ham--A general cure for ham and shoulders--Pickling

preparatory to smoking--Westphalian hams.
CHAPTER X. 13

CHAPTER X.

--DRY SALTING BACON AND SIDES.

Proper proportion of salt to meat--Other preservatives--Applying the

salt--Best distribution of the salt--Time required in curing--Pork for the
south.
CHAPTER XI. 14

CHAPTER XI.

--SMOKING AND SMOKEHOUSES.

Treatment previous to smoking--Simple but effective

smokehouses--Controlling the fire in smoke formation--Materials to
produce best flavor--The choice of weather--Variety in smokehouses.
CHAPTER XII. 15

CHAPTER XII.

--KEEPING HAMS AND BACON.

The ideal meat house--Best temperature and surroundings--Precautions

against skippers--To exclude the bugs entirely.
CHAPTER XIII. 16

CHAPTER XIII.

--SIDE LIGHTS ON PORK MAKING.

Growth of the big packing houses--Average weight of live hogs--"Net to

gross"--Relative weights of various portions of the carcass.
CHAPTER XIV. 17

CHAPTER XIV.

--PACKING HOUSE CUTS OF PORK.

Descriptions of the leading cuts of meat known as the speculative

commodities in the pork product--Mess pork, short ribs, shoulders and
hams, English bacon, varieties of lard.
CHAPTER XV. 18

CHAPTER XV.

--MAGNITUDE OF THE SWINE INDUSTRY.

Importance of the foreign demand--Statistics of the trade--Receipts at

leading points--Prices for a series of years--Co-operative curing houses in
Denmark.
CHAPTER XVI. 19

CHAPTER XVI.

--DISCOVERING THE MERITS OF ROAST PIG.

The immortal Charles Lamb on the art of roasting--An oriental luxury of

luxuries.
CHAPTER XVII. 20

CHAPTER XVII.

--RECIPES FOR COOKING AND SERVING PORK.

Success in the kitchen--Prize methods of best cooks--Unapproachable list

of especially prepared recipes--Roasts, pork pie, cooking bacon, pork and
beans, serving chops and cutlets, use of spare ribs, the New England boiled
dinner, ham and sausage, etc.

INTRODUCTION.

Hog killing and pork making on the farm have become almost lost arts in
these days of mammoth packing establishments which handle such
enormous numbers of swine at all seasons of the year. Yet the progressive
farmer of to-day should not only provide his own fresh and cured pork for
family use, but also should be able to supply at remunerative prices such
persons in his neighborhood as appreciate the excellence and general merit
of country or "homemade" pork product. This is true, also, though naturally
in a less degree, of the townsman who fattens one or two pigs on the family
kitchen slops, adding sufficient grain ration to finish off the pork for
autumn slaughter.

The only popular book of the kind ever published, "Home Pork Making"
furnishes in a plain manner just such detailed information as is needed to
enable the farmer, feeder, or country butcher to successfully and
economically slaughter his own hogs and cure his own pork. All stages of
the work are fully presented, so that even without experience or special
equipment any intelligent person can readily follow the instructions. Hints
are given about finishing off hogs for bacon, hams, etc. Then, beginning
with proper methods of slaughtering, the various processes are clearly
presented, including every needful detail from the scalding vat to the
kitchen baking dish and dining-room table.

The various chapters treat successively of the following, among other

branches of the art of pork making: Possibilities of profit in home curing
and marketing pork; finishing off hogs for bacon; class of rations best
CHAPTER XVII. 21

adapted, flesh and fat forming foods; best methods of slaughtering hogs,
with necessary adjuncts for this preliminary work; scalding and scraping;
the construction of vats; dressing the carcass; cooling and cutting up the
meat; best disposition of the offal; the making of sausage and scrapple;
success in producing a fine quality of lard and the proper care of it.

Several chapters are devoted to putting down and curing the different cuts
of meat in a variety of ways for many purposes. Here will be found the
prized recipes and secret processes employed in making the popular pork
specialties for which England, Virginia, Kentucky, New England and other
sections are noted. Many of these points involve the old and well-guarded
methods upon which more than one fortune has been made, as well as the
newest and latest ideas for curing pork and utilizing its products. Among
these the subject of pickling and barreling is thoroughly treated, renewing
pork brine; care of barrels, etc. The proper curing of hams and shoulders
receives minute attention, and so with the work of dry salting bacon and
sides. A chapter devoted to smoking and smokehouses affords all necessary
light on this important subject, including a number of helpful illustrations;
success in keeping bacon and hams is fully described, together with many
other features of the work of home curing. The concluding portion of the
book affords many interesting details relating to the various cuts of meat in
the big packing houses, magnitude of the swine industry and figures
covering the importance of our home and foreign trade in pork and pork
product.

In completing this preface, descriptive of the various features of the book,

the editor wishes to give credit to our friends who have added to its value
through various contributions and courtesies. A considerable part of the
chapters giving practical directions for cutting and curing pork are the
results of the actual experience of B. W. Jones of Virginia; we desire also
to give due credit to contributions by P. H. Hartwell, Rufus B. Martin,
Henry Stewart and many other practical farmers; to Hately Brothers,
leading packers at Chicago; North Packing and Provision Co. of Boston,
and to a host of intelligent women on American farms, who, through their
practical experience in the art of cooking, have furnished us with many
admirable recipes for preparing and serving pork.
CHAPTER I. 22

CHAPTER I.

PORK MAKING ON THE FARM.

During the marvelous growth of the packing industry the past generation,
methods of slaughtering and handling pork have undergone an entire
revolution. In the days of our fathers, annual hog-killing time was as much
an event in the family as the harvesting of grain. With the coming of good
vigorous frosts and cold weather, reached in the Northern states usually in
November, every farmer would kill one, two or more hogs for home
consumption, and frequently a considerable number for distribution through
regular market channels. Nowadays, however, the big pork packing
establishments have brought things down to such a fine point, utilizing
every part of the animal (or, as has been said, "working up everything but
the pig's squeal"), that comparatively few hogs out of all the great number
fattened are slaughtered and cut up on the farm.

Unquestionably there is room for considerable business of this character,

and if properly conducted, with a thorough understanding, farmers can
profitably convert some of their hogs into cured meats, lard, hams, bacon,
sausage, etc., finding a good market at home and in villages and towns.
Methods now in use are not greatly different from those followed years
ago, although of course improvement is the order of the day, and some
important changes have taken place, as will be seen in a study of our pages.
A few fixtures and implements are necessary to properly cure and pack
pork, but these may be simple, inexpensive and at the same time efficient.
Such important portions of the work as the proper cutting of the throat,
scalding, scraping, opening and cleaning the hog should be undertaken by
someone not altogether a novice. And there is no reason why every farmer
should not advantageously slaughter one or more hogs each year, supplying
the family with the winter's requirements and have something left over to
sell.

THE POSSIBILITIES OF PROFIT

CHAPTER I. 23

in the intelligent curing and selling of homemade pork are suggested by the
far too general custom of farmers buying their pork supplies at the stores.
This custom is increasing, to say nothing of the very large number of
townspeople who would be willing to buy home cured pork were it
properly offered them. Probably it is not practicable that every farmer
should butcher his own swine, but in nearly every neighborhood one or two
farmers could do this and make good profits. The first to do so, the first to
be known as having home cured pork to sell, and the first to make a
reputation on it, will be the one to secure the most profit.

In the farm census of live stock, hogs are given a very important place.
According to the United States census of 1890 there were on farms in this
country 57,409,583 hogs. Returns covering later years place the farm
census of hogs, according to compilations of American Agriculturist and
Orange Judd Farmer, recognized authorities, at 47,061,000 in 1895,
46,302,000 in 1896, and 48,934,000 in 1899. According to these authorities
the average farm value of all hogs in 1899 was $4.19 per head. The
government report placed the average farm price in 1894 at $5.98, in '93,
$6.41, and in 1892, $4.60.

A TRAVELING PIGPEN.

It is often desirable to change the location of a pigpen, especially where a

single pig is kept. It may be placed in the garden at the time when there are
waste vegetables to be disposed of, or it may be penned in a grass lot. A
portable pen, with an open yard attached, is seen in the accompanying
illustrations. Figure 1 presents the pen, the engraving showing it so clearly
that no description is needed. The yard, seen in Fig. 2, is placed with the
open space next to the door of the pen, so that the pig can go in and out
freely. The yard is attached to the pen by hooks and staples, and both of
them are provided with handles, by which they can be lifted and carried
from place to place. Both the yard and pen should be floored, to prevent the
pig from tearing up the ground. The floors should be raised a few inches
from the ground, that they may be kept dry and made durable.

[Illustration: FIG. 1. PORTABLE PEN.]

CHAPTER I. 24

[Illustration: FIG. 2. YARD ATTACHMENT.]

CHAPTER II. 25

CHAPTER II.

FINISHING OFF HOGS FOR BACON.

The general subject of feeding and fattening hogs it is not necessary here to
discuss. It will suffice to point out the advisability of using such rations as
will finish off the swine in a manner best fitted to produce a good bacon
hog. An important point is to feed a proper proportion of flesh-forming
ration rather than one which will serve to develop fat at the expense of lean.
The proper proportion of these will best subserve the interest of the farmer,
whether he is finishing off swine for family use or for supplying the market
with home cured bacon. A diet composed largely of protein (albuminoids)
results in an increased proportion of lean meat in the carcass. On the other
hand, a ration made up chiefly of feeds which are high in starchy elements,
known as carbohydrates, yields very largely in fat (lard). A most
comprehensive chart showing the relative values of various fodders and
feeding stuffs has been prepared by Herbert Myrick, editor of American
Agriculturist, and will afford a good many valuable hints to the farmer who
wishes to feed his swine intelligently. This points out the fact that such
feeds as oats, barley, cowpea hay, shorts, red clover hay and whole
cottonseed are especially rich in flesh-forming properties.

Corn, which is rich in starch, is a great fat producer and should not be fed
too freely in finishing off hogs for the best class of bacon. In addition to the
important muscle-producing feeds noted above, there are others rich in
protein, such as bran, skim milk, buttermilk, etc. While corn is naturally the
standby of all swine growers, the rations for bacon purposes should include
these muscle-producing feeds in order to bring the best results. If lean,
juicy meat is desired, these muscle forming foods should be continued to
the close. In order to get

JUST THE QUALITY OF BACON THAT IS WANTED,

feeders must so arrange the ration that it will contain a maximum of muscle
and a minimum of fat. This gives the sweet flavor and streaked meat which
is the secret of the popularity of the Irish and Danish bacon. Our American
CHAPTER II. 26

meats are as a rule heavy, rich in fat and in marked contrast with the light,
mild, sweet flavored pork well streaked with lean, found so generally in the
English market and cured primarily in Ireland and Denmark. What is
wanted is a long, lean, smooth, bacon hog something after the Irish hog.
Here is a hint for our American farmers.

England can justly boast of her hams and bacon, but for sweet, tender, lean
pork the Normandy hogs probably have no superior in the world. They are
fed largely on meat-producing food, as milk, peas, barley, rye and wheat
bran. They are not fed on corn meal alone. They are slaughtered at about
six months. The bristles are burned off by laying the carcass on straw and
setting it on fire. Though the carcasses come out black, they are scraped
white and clean, and dressed perfectly while warm. It is believed that hogs
thus dressed keep better and that the meat is sweeter.

SELF-CLOSING DOOR FOR PIGPEN.

Neither winter snows nor the spring and summer rains should be allowed to
beat into a pigpen. But the difficulty is to have a door that will shut itself
and can be opened by the animals whenever they desire. The engraving,
Fig. 3, shows a door of this kind that can be applied to any pen, at least any
to which a door can be affixed at all. It is hung on hooks and staples to the
lintel of the doorway, and swinging either way allows the inmates of the
pen to go out or in, as they please,--closing automatically. If the door is
intended to fit closely, leather strips two inches wide should be nailed
around the frame of the doorway, then as the door closes it presses tightly
against these strips.

[Illustration: FIG. 3. AUTOMATIC DOOR.]

A HOG-FEEDING CONVENIENCE.

The usual hog's trough and the usual method of getting food into it are
conducive to a perturbed state of mind on the part of the feeder, because the
hog is accustomed to get bodily into the trough, where he is likely to
receive a goodly portion of his breakfast or dinner upon the top of his head.
CHAPTER II. 27

The ordinary trough too, is difficult to clean out for a similar reason--the
pig usually standing in it. The diagram shown herewith, Fig. 4 gives a
suggestion for a trough that overcomes some of the difficulties mentioned,
as it is easily accessible from the outside, both for pouring in food and for
removing any dirt or litter that may be in it. The accompanying sketch so
plainly shows the construction that detailed description does not appear to
be necessary.

[Illustration: FIG. 4. PROTECTED TROUGH.]

CHAPTER III. 28

CHAPTER III.

SLAUGHTERING.

Whatever may be said as to the most humane modes of putting to death

domestic animals intended for food, butchering with the knife, all things
considered, is the best method to pursue with the hog. The hog should be
bled thoroughly when it is killed. Butchering by which the heart is pierced
or the main artery leading from it severed, does this in the most effectual
way, ridding the matter of the largest percentage of blood, and leaving it in
the best condition for curing and keeping well. The very best bacon cannot
be made of meat that has not been thoroughly freed from blood, and this is
a fact that should be well remembered. Expert butchers, who know how to
seize and hold the hog and insert the knife at the proper place, are quickly
through with the job, and often before the knife can be withdrawn from the
incision, the blood will spurt out in a stream and insensibility and death will
speedily ensue. It is easy, however, for a novice to make a botch of it;
hence the importance that none but an expert be given a knife for this
delicate operation.

There are some readily made devices by which one man at killing time may
do as much as three or four, and with one helper a dozen hogs may be made
into finished pork between breakfast and dinner, and without any
excitement or worry or hard work. It is supposed that the hogs are in a pen
or pens, where they may be easily roped by a noose around one hind leg.
This being done, the animal is led to the door and guided into a box, having
a slide door to shut it in. The bottom of the box is a hinged lid. As soon as
the hog is safely in the box and shut in by sliding down the back door, and
fastening it by a hook, the box is turned over, bringing the hog on his back.
The bottom of the box is opened immediately and one man seizes a hind
foot, to hold the animal, while the other sticks the hog in the usual manner.
The box is turned and lifted from the hog, which, still held by the rope is
moved to the dressing bench. All this may be done while the previous hog
is being scalded and dressed, or the work may be so managed that as soon
as one hog is hung and cleaned the next one is ready for the scalding.
CHAPTER III. 29

[Illustration: FIG. 5. HEATING WATER IN KETTLES.]

NECESSARY AIDS.

Before the day for slaughter arrives, have everything ready for performing
the work in the best manner. There may be a large boiler for scalding set in
masonry with a fireplace underneath and a flue to carry off the smoke. If
this is not available, a large hogshead may be utilized at the proper time. A
long table, strong and immovable, should be fixed close to the boiler, on
which the hogs are to be drawn after having been scalded, for scraping. On
each side of this table scantlings should be laid in the form of an open
flooring, and upon this the farmer and helpers may stand while at work,
thus keeping their feet off the ground, out of the water and mud that would
otherwise be disagreeable. An appreciated addition on a rainy day would be
a substantial roof over this boiler and bench. This should be strong and
large enough so that the hog after it is cleaned may be properly hung up.
Hooks and gambrels are provided, knives are sharpened, a pile of dry wood
is placed there, and everything that will be needed on the day of butchering
is at hand.

HEATING WATER FOR SCALDING.

For heating scalding water and rendering lard, when one has no kettles or
cauldrons ready to set in brick or stone, a simple method is to put down two
forked stakes firmly, as shown in Fig. 5, lay in them a pole to support the
kettles, and build a wood fire around them on the ground. A more elaborate
arrangement is shown in Fig. 6, which serves not only to heat the water, but
as a scalding tub as well. It is made of two-inch pine boards, six feet long
and two feet wide, rounded at the ends. A heavy plate of sheet iron is nailed
with wrought nails on the bottom and ends Let the iron project fully one
inch on each side. The ends, being rounded, will prevent the fire from
burning the woodwork. They also make it handier for dipping sheep,
scalding hogs, or for taking out the boiled food. The box is set on two walls
18 inches high, and the rear end of the brickwork is built into a short
chimney, affording ample draft.
CHAPTER III. 30

[Illustration: FIG. 6. PRACTICAL HEATING AND SCALDING VAT.]

CHAPTER IV. 31

CHAPTER IV.

SCALDING AND SCRAPING.

Next comes the scalding and dressing of the carcass. Lay the hog upon the
table near the boiler and let the scalders who stand ready to handle it place
it in the water heated nearly to a boiling point. The scalders keep the hog in
motion by turning it about in the water, and occasionally they try the
bristles to see if they will come away readily. As soon as satisfied on this
point, the carcass is drawn from the boiler and placed upon the bench,
where it is rapidly and thoroughly scraped. The bristles or hair that grow
along the back of the animal are sometimes sold to brush makers, the
remainder of the hair falling beside the table and gathered up for the
manure heap. The carcass must not remain too long in the hot water, as this
will set the hair. In this case it will not part from the skin, and must be
scraped off with sharp knives. For this reason an experienced hand should
attend to the scalding. The hair all off, the carcass is hung upon the hooks,
head down, nicely scraped and washed with clean water preparatory to
disemboweling.

[Illustration: FIG. 7. TACKLE FOR HEAVY HOGS.]

SCALDING TUBS AND VATS.

Various devices are employed for scalding hogs, without lifting them by
main force. For heavy hogs, one may use three strong poles, fastened at the
top with a log chain, which supports a simple tackle, Fig. 7. A very good
arrangement is shown in Fig. 8. A sled is made firm with driven stakes and
covered with planks or boards. At the rear end the scalding cask is set in the
ground, its upper edge on a level with the platform and inclined as much as
it can be and hold sufficient water. A large, long hog is scalded one end at a
time. The more the cask is inclined, the easier will be the lifting.

[Illustration: FIG. 8. SCALDING CASK ON SLED.]

CHAPTER IV. 32

A modification of the above device is shown in Fig. 9. A lever is rigged

like a well sweep, using a crotched stick for the post, and a strong pole for
the sweep. The iron rod on which the sweep moves must be strong and
stiff. A trace chain is attached to the upper end, and if the end of the chain
has a ring instead of a hook, it will be quite convenient. In use, a table is
improvised, unless a strong one for the purpose is at hand, and this is set
near the barrel. A noose is made with the chain about the leg of the hog,
and he is soused in, going entirely under water, lifted out when the bristles
start easily, and laid upon the table, while another is made ready.

[Illustration: FIG. 9. SCALDING IN A HOGSHEAD.]

Figure 10 shows a more permanent arrangement. It is a trough of plank

with a sheet iron bottom, which can be set over a temporary fireplace made
in the ground. The vat may be six feet long, three feet wide and two and
one-half feet deep, so as to be large enough for a good-sized hog. Three
ropes are fastened on one side, for the purpose of rolling the hog over into
the vat and rolling it out on the other side when it is scalded. A number of
slanting crosspieces are fitted in, crossing each other, so as to form a
hollow bed in which the carcass lies, with the ropes under it, by which it
can be moved and drawn out. These crosspieces protect the sheet iron
bottom and keep the carcass from resting upon it. A large, narrow fireplace
is built up in the ground, with stoned sides, and the trough is set over it. A
stovepipe is fitted at one end, and room is made at the front by which wood
may be supplied to the fire to heat the water. A sloping table is fitted at one
side for the purpose of rolling up the carcass, when too large to handle
otherwise, by means of the rope previously mentioned. On the other side is
a frame made of hollowed boards set on edge, upon which the hog is
scraped and cleaned. The right temperature for scalding a hog is 180
degrees, and with a thermometer there need be no fear of overscalding or a
failure from the lack of sufficient heat, while the water can be kept at the
right temperature by regulating the fuel under the vat. If a spot of hair is
obstinate, cover it with some of the removed hair and dip on hot water.
Always pull out hair and bristles; shaving any off leaves unpleasant stubs in
the skin.
CHAPTER IV. 33

SINGEING PIGS.

A few years ago, "singers" were general favorites with a certain class of
trade wanting a light bacon pig, weighing about 170 lbs., the product being
exported to England for bacon purposes. Packers frequently paid a small
premium for light hogs suitable for this end, but more recently the demand
is in other directions. The meat of singed hogs is considered by some to
possess finer flavor than that of animals the hair of which has been
removed by the ordinary process. Instead of being scalded and scraped in
the ordinary manner, the singeing process consists in lowering the carcass
into an iron or steel box by means of a heavy chain, the receptacle having
been previously heated to an exceedingly high temperature. After
remaining there a very few seconds the hog is removed and upon being
placed in hot water the hair comes off instantly.

An old encyclopedia, published thirty years ago, in advocating the singeing

process, has this to say: "The hog should be swealed (singed), and not
scalded, as this method leaves the flesh firm and more solid. This is done
by covering the hog lightly with straw, then set fire to it, renewing the fuel
as it is burned away, taking care not to burn the skin. After sufficient
singeing, the skin is scraped, but not washed. After cutting up, the flesh
side of the cuts is rubbed with salt, which should be changed every four or
five days. The flitches should also be transposed, the bottom ones at the top
and the top ones at the bottom. Some use four ounces saltpetre and one
pound coarse sugar or molasses for each hog. Six weeks is allowed for thus
curing a hog weighing 240 lbs. The flitches before smoking are rubbed with
bran or very fine sawdust and after smoking are often kept in clear, dry
wood ashes or very dry sand."

[Illustration: FIG. 10. PERMANENT VAT FOR SCALDING.]

CHAPTER V. 34

CHAPTER V.

DRESSING AND CUTTING.

When the carcasses have lost the animal heat they are put away till the
morrow, by which time, if the weather is fairly cold, the meat is stiff and
firm and in a condition to cut out better than it does when taken in its soft
and pliant state. If the weather is very cold, however, and there is danger
that the meat will freeze hard before morning, haste is made to cut it up the
same day, or else it is put into a basement or other warm room, or a large
fire made near it to prevent it from freezing. Meat that is frozen will not
take salt, or keep from spoiling if salted. Salting is one of the most
important of the several processes in the art of curing good bacon, and the
pork should be in just the right condition for taking or absorbing the salt.
Moderately cold and damp weather is the best for this.

AS THE CARCASS IS DRESSED

it is lifted by a hook at the end of a swivel lever mounted on a post and

swung around to a hanging bar, placed conveniently. This bar has sliding
hooks made to receive the gambrel sticks, which have a hook permanently
attached to each so that the carcass is quickly removed from the swivel
lever to the slide hook on the bar. The upper edge of the bar is rounded and
smoothed and greased to help the hooks to slide on it. This serves to hang
all the hogs on the bar until they are cooled. If four persons are employed
this work may be done very quickly, as they may divide the work between
them; one hog is being scalded and cleaned while another is being dressed.

[Illustration: FIG. 11. EASY METHOD OF HANGING A CARCASS.]

Divested of its coat, the carcass is washed off nicely with clean water
before being disemboweled. For opening the hog, the operator needs a
sharp butcher's knife, and should know how to use it with dexterity, so as
not to cut the entrails. The entrails and paunch, or stomach, are first
removed, care being taken not to cut any; then the liver, the "dead ears"
removed from the heart, and the heart cut open to remove any clots of
CHAPTER V. 35

blood that it may contain. The windpipe is then slit open, and the whole
together is hung upon the gambrel beside the hog or placed temporarily into
a tub of water. The "stretcher," a small stick some sixteen inches long, is
then placed across the bowels to hold the sides well open and admit the air
to cool the carcass, and a chip or other small object is placed in the mouth
to hold it open, and the interior parts of the hog about the shoulders and
gullet are nicely washed to free them from stains of blood. The carcass is
then left to hang upon the gallows in order to cool thoroughly before it is
cut into pieces or put away for the night.

Where ten or twelve hogs are dressed every year, it will pay to have a
suitable building arranged for the work. An excellent place may be made in
the driveway between a double corncrib, or in a wagon shed or an annex to
the barn where the feeding pen is placed. The building should have a
stationary boiler in it, and such apparatus as has been suggested, and a
windlass used to do the lifting.

HOG KILLING MADE EASY.

In the accompanying cut, Fig. 11, the hoister represents a homemade

apparatus that has been in use many years and it has been a grand success.
The frames, a, a, a, a, are of 2x4 inch scantling, 8 ft. in length; b, b, are 2x6
inch and 2 ft. long with a round notch in the center of the upper surface for
a windlass, d, to turn in; c, c are 2x4 and 8 ft. long, or as long as desired,
and are bolted to a, a. Ten inches beyond the windlass, d, is a 4x4 inch
piece with arms bolted on the end to turn the windlass and draw up the
carcass, which should be turned lengthwise of the hoister until it passes
between c, c. The gambrel should be long enough to catch on each side
when turned crosswise, thus relieving the windlass so that a second carcass
may be hoisted. The peg, e, is to place in a hole of upright, a, to hold the
windlass. Brace the frame in proportion to the load that is to be placed upon
it. The longer it is made, the more hogs can be hung at the same time.

THE SAWBUCK SCAFFOLD.

CHAPTER V. 36

Figure 12 shows a very cheap and convenient device for hanging either
hogs or beeves. The device is in shape much like an old-fashioned
"sawbuck," with the lower rounds between the legs omitted. The legs, of
which there are two pairs, should be about ten feet long and set bracing, in
the manner shown in the engraving. The two pairs of legs are held together
by an inch iron rod, five or six feet in length, provided with threads at both
ends. The whole is made secure by means of two pairs of nuts, which fasten
the legs to the connecting iron rod. A straight and smooth wooden roller
rests in the forks made by the crossing of the legs, and one end projects
about sixteen inches. In this two augur holes are bored, in which levers may
be inserted for turning the roller. The rope, by means of which the carcass
is raised, passes over the rollers in such a way that in turning, by means of
the levers, the animal is raised from the ground. When sufficiently elevated,
the roller is fastened by one of the levers to the nearest leg.

[Illustration: FIG. 12. RAISING A CARCASS.]

PROPER SHAPE OF GAMBRELS.

Gambrels should be provided of different lengths, if the hogs vary much in

size. That shown in Fig. 13 is a convenient shape. These should be of
hickory or other tough wood for safety, and be so small as to require little
gashing of the legs to receive them.

[Illustration: FIG. 13. A CONVENIENT GAMBREL.]

GALLOWS FOR DRESSED HOGS.

The accompanying device, Fig. 14, for hanging dressed hogs, consists of a
stout, upright post, six or eight inches square and ten feet long, the lower
three feet being set into the ground. Near the upper end are two mortises,
each 2x4 inches, quite through the post, one above the other, as shown in
the engraving, for the reception of the horizontal arms. The latter are six
feet long and just large enough to fit closely into the mortises. They should
be of white oak or hickory. At butchering time the dead hogs are hung on
the scaffold by slipping the gambrels upon the horizontal crosspieces.
CHAPTER V. 37

ADDITIONAL HINTS ON DRESSING.

Little use of the knife is required to loosen the entrails. The fingers, rightly
used, will do most of the severing. Small, strong strings, cut in proper
lengths, should be always at hand to quickly tie the severed ends of any
small intestines cut or broken by chance. An expert will catch the entire
offal in a large tin pan or wooden vessel, which is held between himself and
the hog. Unskilled operators, and those opening very large hogs, need an
assistant to hold this. The entrails and then the liver, heart, etc., being all
removed, thoroughly rinse out any blood or filth that may have escaped
inside. Removing the lard from the long intestines requires expertness that
can be learned only by practice. The fingers do most of this cleaner, safer
and better than a knife. A light feed the night before killing leaves the
intestines less distended and less likely to be broken.

[Illustration: FIG. 14. SIMPLE SUPPORT FOR DRESSED HOG.]

HOW TO CUT UP A HOG.

With a sharp ax and a sharp butcher's knife at hand, lay the hog on the
chopping bench, side down. With the knife make a cut near the ear clear
across the neck and down to the bone. With a dextrous stroke of the ax
sever the head from the body. Lay the carcass on the back, a boy holding it
upright and keeping the forelegs well apart. With the ax proceed to take out
the chine or backbone. If it is desired to put as much of the hog into neat
meat as possible, trim to the chine very close, taking out none of the skin or
outside fat with it. Otherwise, the cutter need not be particular how much
meat comes away with the bone. What does not go with the neat meat will
be in the offal or sausage, and nothing will be lost. Lay the chine aside and
with the knife finish separating the two divisions of the hog. Next, strip off
with the hands the leaves or flakes of fat from the middle to the hams. Seize
the hock of the ham with the left hand and with the knife in the other,
proceed to round out the ham, giving it a neat, oval shape. Be very
particular in shaping the ham. If it is spoiled in the first cutting, no
subsequent trimming will put it into a form to exactly suit the fastidious
public eye. Trim off the surplus lean and fat and projecting pieces of bone.
CHAPTER V. 38

Cut off the foot just above the hock joint. The piece when finished should
have nearly the form of a regular oval, with its projecting handle or hock.

With the ax cut the shoulder from the middling, making the cut straight
across near the elbow joint. Take off the end ribs or "spare bone" from the
shoulder, trim the piece and cut off the foot. For home use, trim the
shoulder, as well as the other pieces, very closely, taking off all of both lean
and fat that can be spared. If care is taken to cut away the head near the ear,
the shoulder will be at first about as wide as long, having a good deal of the
neck attached. If the meat is intended for sale and the largest quantity of
bacon is the primary object, let the piece remain so. But if it is preferred to
have plenty of lard and sausage, cut a smart strip from off the neck side of
the shoulder and make the piece assume the form of a parallelogram, with
the hock attached to one end. Trim a slice of fat from the back for lard, take
off the "short ribs," and, if preferred, remove the long ribs from the whole
piece. The latter, however, is not often done by the farmers. Put the
middling in nice shape by trimming it wherever needed, which, when
finished, will be very much like a square in form, perhaps a little longer
than broad, with a small circular piece cut out from the end next the ham.

The six pieces of neat meat are now ready for the salter. The head is next
cut open longitudinally from side to side, separating the jowl from the top
or "head," so-called. The jawbone of the jowl is cut at the angle or tip and
the "swallow," which is the larynx or upper part of the windpipe, is taken
out. The headpiece is next cut open vertically and the lobe of the brain is
taken out, and the ears and nose are removed.

The bone of the chine is cut at several places for the convenience of the
cook, and the task of the cutter is finished. Besides the six pieces of neat
meat, there are the chine, souse, jowl, head, fat, sausage, two spare and two
short ribs and various other small bits derived from each hog. A good
cutter, with an assistant to carry away the pieces and help otherwise, can
cut out from 50 to 60 hogs in a day.
CHAPTER VI. 39

CHAPTER VI.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE OFFAL.

Aside from the pieces of meat into which a hog is usually cut, there will be
left as offal the chine or backbone, the jowl, the souse, the liver and lungs,
pig's feet, two spareribs and two short ribs or griskins. Nearly every
housekeeper knows what disposition to make of all this, yet too often these
wholesome portions of the hog are not utilized to best advantage.

PORK SAUSAGE.

Sausage has formed a highly prized article of food for a good many
hundred years. Formed primarily as now, by chopping the raw meat very
fine, and adding salt and other flavoring materials, and often meal or bread
crumbs, the favorite varieties of to-day might not be considered any
improvement over the recipes of the ancient Romans were they to pass
judgment on the same. History tells us that these early Italian sausages were
made of fresh pork and bacon, chopped fine, with the addition of nuts, and
flavored with cumin seed, pepper, bay leaves and various pot herbs. Italy
and Germany are still celebrated for their bologna sausages and with many
people these smoked varieties are highly prized.

Like pure lard, sausage is too often a scarce article in the market. Most city
butchers mix a good deal of beef with the pork, before it is ground, and so
have a sausage composed of two sorts of meat, which does not possess that
agreeable, sweet, savory taste peculiar to nice fresh pork. The bits of lean,
cut off when trimming the pieces of neat meat, the tenderloins, and slices of
lean from the shoulders and hams, together with some fat, are first washed
nicely, cleared of bone and scraps of skin, then put into the chopper, and
ground fine. If a great deal of sausage is wanted, the neat meat is trimmed
very close, so as to take all the lean that can be spared from the pieces.
Sometimes whole shoulders are cut up and ground. The heads, too, or the
fleshy part, make good sausage. Some housekeepers have the livers and
"lights," or lungs, ground up and prepared for sausage, and they make a
tolerable substitute. This preparation should be kept separate from the
CHAPTER VI. 40

other, however, and be eaten while cold weather lasts, as it will not keep as
long as the other kind.

After sausage is properly ground, add salt, sage, rosemary, and red or black
pepper to suit the taste. The rosemary may be omitted, but sage is essential.
All these articles should be made fine before mixing them with the meat. In
order to determine accurately whether the sausage contains enough of these
ingredients, cook a little and taste it.

If sausage is to be kept in jars, pack it away closely in them, as soon as it is

ground and seasoned, and set the jars, securely closed, in a cool room. But
it is much better to provide for smoking some of it, to keep through the
spring and early summer. When the entrails are ready, stuff them full with
the meat, after which the ends are tied and drawn together, and the sausage
hung up in the smokehouse for smoking. This finishes the process of
making pork sausage. Put up in this way, it deserves the name of sausage
and it makes a dish good enough for any one. It is one of the luxuries of life
which may be manufactured at home.

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE.

The popular theory is that these familiar sausages originated in the Italian
city of that name, where the American visitor always stops for a bit of "the
original." Many formulas are used in the preparation of bologna sausages,
or rather many modifications of a general formula. Lean, fresh meat
trimmings are employed and some add a small proportion of heart, all
chopped very fine. While being chopped, spices and seasoning are added,
with a sufficient quantity of salt. The meat employed is for the most part
beef, to which is added some fresh or salted pork. When almost completed,
add gradually a small quantity of potato flour and a little water. The
mixture being of the proper consistency, stuff in beef casings, tie the ends
together into rings of fair length and smoke thoroughly. This accomplished,
boil until the sausages rise to the top, when they are ready for use. Some
recipes provide for two parts of beef and one part of fat pork and the
addition of a little ground coriander seed to the seasoning.
CHAPTER VI. 41

WESTPHALIAN SAUSAGES

are made in much the same manner as frankforts, chopped not quite so fine,
and, after being cased, are smoked about a week.

FRANKFORT SAUSAGES.

Clean bits of pork, both fat and lean, are chopped fine and well moistened
with cold water. These may be placed in either sheep or hog casings
through the use of the homemade filler shown on another page.

SUABIAN SAUSAGES.

Chop very finely fat and lean meat until the mass becomes nearly a paste,
applying a sprinkling of cold water during the operation. Suabian sausages
are prepared by either smoking or boiling, and in the latter case may be
considered sufficiently cooked when they rise to the surface of the water in
which they are boiled.

ITALIAN PORK SAUSAGES.

The preparation of these requires considerable care, but the product is

highly prized by many. For every nine pounds of raw pork add an equal
amount of boiled salt pork and an equal amount of raw veal. Then add two
pounds selected sardines with all bones previously removed. Chop together
to a fine mass and then add five pounds raw fat pork previously cut into
small cubes. For the seasoning take six ounces salt, four ounces ground
pepper, eight ounces capers, eight ounces pistachio nuts peeled and boiled
in wine. All of these ingredients being thoroughly mixed, add about one
dozen pickled and boiled tongues cut into narrow strips. Place the sausage
in beef casings of good size. In boiling, the sausages should be wrapped in
a cloth with liberal windings of stout twine and allowed to cook about an
hour. Then remove to a cool place about 24 hours.

TONGUE SAUSAGE.
CHAPTER VI. 42

To every pound of meat used add two pounds of tongues, which have
previously been cut into small pieces, mixing thoroughly. These are to be
placed in large casings and boiled for about an hour. The flavor of the
product may be improved if the tongues are previously placed for a day in
spiced brine. Pickled tongues are sometimes used, steeped first in cold
water for several hours.

BLACK FOREST SAUSAGES.

This is an old formula followed extensively in years gone by in Germany.

Very lean pork is chopped into a fine mass and for every ten pounds, three
pounds of fat bacon are added, previously cut comparatively fine. This is
properly salted and spiced and sometimes a sprinkling of blood is added to
improve the color. Fill into large casings, place over the fire in a kettle of
cold water and simmer without boiling for nearly an hour.

LIVER SAUSAGE.

The Germans prepare this by adding to every five pounds of fat and lean
pork an equal quantity of ground rind and two and one-half pounds liver.
Previously partly cook the rind and pork and chop fine, then add the raw
liver well chopped and press through a coarse sieve. Mix all thoroughly
with sufficient seasoning. As the raw liver will swell when placed in
boiling water, these sausages should be filled into large skins, leaving say a
quarter of the space for expansion. Boil nearly one hour, dry, then smoke
four or five days.

ROYAL CAMBRIDGE SAUSAGES

are made by adding rice in the proportion of five pounds to every ten
pounds of lean meat and six pounds of fat. Previously boil the rice about
ten minutes, then add gradually to the meat while being chopped fine, not
forgetting the seasoning. The rice may thus be used instead of bread, and it
is claimed to aid in keeping the sausages fresh and sweet.

BRAIN SAUSAGES.
CHAPTER VI. 43

Free from all skin and wash thoroughly the brain of two calves. Add one
pound of lean and one pound of fat pork previously chopped fine. Use as
seasoning four or five raw grated onions, one ounce salt, one-half ounce
ground pepper. Mix thoroughly, place in beef casings and boil about five
minutes. Afterward hang in a cool place until ready for use.

TOMATO SAUSAGES.

Add one and one-half pounds pulp of choice ripe tomatoes to every seven
pounds of sausage meat, using an addition of one pound of finely crushed
crackers, the last named previously mixed with a quart of water and
allowed to stand for some time before using. Add the mixture of tomato
and cracker powder gradually to the meat while the latter is being chopped.
Season well and cook thoroughly.

SPANISH SAUSAGE

is made by using one-third each leaf lard, lean and fat pork, first thoroughly
boiling and chopping fine the meat. Add to this the leaf lard previously
chopped moderately fine, mix well and add a little blood to improve the
color and moisten the whole. This sausage is to be placed in large casings
and tied in links eight to twelve inches long. In an old recipe for Spanish
sausage seasoning it is made of seven pounds ground white pepper, six
ounces ground nutmeg, eight ounces ground pimento or allspice and a
sprinkling of bruised garlic.

ANOTHER SAUSAGE SEASONING.

To five pounds salt add two pounds best ground white pepper, three ounces
ground mace, or an equal quantity of nutmeg, four ounces ground coriander
seed, two ounces powdered cayenne pepper and mix thoroughly.

ADMIXTURE OF BREAD.

Very often concerns which manufacture sausage on a large scale add

considerable quantities of bread. This increases the weight at low cost, thus
CHAPTER VI. 44

cheapening the finished product, and is also said to aid in keeping qualities.
While this is no doubt thoroughly wholesome, it is not in vogue by our
most successful farmers who have long made a business of preparing
home-cured sausage. Bread used for sausages should have the crust
removed, should be well soaked in cold water for some time before
required, then pressed to remove the surplus moisture, and added gradually
to the pork while being chopped. Some sausage manufacturers add 10 to 15
per cent in weight of crushed crackers instead of bread to sausage made
during hot weather. This is to render the product firm and incidentally to
increase the weight through thoroughly mixing the cracker crumbs or
powder with an equal weight or more of water before adding to the meat.

SAUSAGE IN CASES.

Many prefer to pack in sausage casings, either home prepared or purchased

of a dealer in packers' supplies. Latest improved machines for rapidly
filling the cases are admirably adapted to the work, and this can also be
accomplished by a homemade device. Figure 15 shows a simple bench and
lever arrangement to be used with the common sausage filler, which
lightens the work so much that even a small boy can use it with ease, and
any person can get up the whole apparatus at home with little or no
expense. An inch thick pine board one foot wide and four and one-fourth
feet long is fitted with four legs, two and one-half feet long, notched into its
edges, with the feet spread outward to give firmness. Two oak standards
eighteen inches high are set thirty-four inches apart, with a slot down the
middle of each, for the admission of an oak lever eight feet long. The left
upright has three or four holes, one above another, for the lever pin, as
shown in the engraving. The tin filler is set into the bench nearer the left
upright and projects below for receiving the skins. Above the filler is a
follower fitting closely into it, and its top working very loosely in the lever
to allow full play as it moves up and down. The engraving shows the parts
and mode of working.

[Illustration: FIG. 15. HOMEMADE SAUSAGE FILLER.]

PHILADELPHIA SCRAPPLE.
CHAPTER VI. 45

This is highly prized in some parts of the country, affording a breakfast

dish of great relish. A leading Philadelphia manufacturer has furnished us
with the following recipe: To make 200 lbs. of scrapple, take about 80 lbs.
of good clean pork heads, remove the eyes, brains, snout, etc. Put in about
20 gals. of water and cook until it is thoroughly done. Then take out,
separate the bones and chop the meat fine. Take about 15 gals, of the liquor
left after boiling the heads, and if the water has boiled down to a quantity
less than 15 gals., make up its bulk with hot water; if more than 15 gals.
remain, take some of the water out, but be sure to keep some of the good fat
liquor. Put this quantity of the liquor into a kettle, add the chopped meat,
together with 10 oz. pure white pepper, 8 oz. sweet marjoram, 2 lbs. fine
salt. Stir well until the liquor comes to a good boil. Have ready for use at
this time 25 lbs. good Indian meal and 7 lbs. buckwheat flour. As soon as
the liquor begins to boil add the meal and flour, the two being previously
mixed dry. Be careful to put the meal in a little at a time, scattering it well
and stirring briskly, that it may not burn to the kettle. Cook until well done,
then place in pans to cool. The pans should be well greased, also the dipper
used, to prevent the scrapple sticking to the utensils. When cold, the
scrapple is cut into slices and fried in the ordinary manner as sausage.
Serve hot.

SOUSE.

After being carefully cleaned and soaked in cold water, the feet, ears, nose
and sometimes portions of the head may be boiled, thoroughly boned, and
pressed into bowls or other vessels for cake souse. But frequently these
pieces, instead of being boned, are placed whole in a vessel and covered
with a vinegar, and afterwards taken a little at a time, as wanted, and fried.

JOWLS AND HEAD.

If not made into souse or sausage, these may be boiled unsmoked, with
turnips, peas or beans; or smoked and cooked with cabbage or salad. The
liver and accompanying parts, if not converted into sausage, may be
otherwise utilized.
CHAPTER VI. 46

THE SPARERIBS AND SHORT BONES

may be cooked in meat pies with a crust, the same as chicken, or they may
be fried or boiled. The large end of the chine makes a good piece for
baking. The whole chine may be smoked and will keep a long time.

CRACKNELS.

This is the portion of the fat meat which is left after the lard is cooked, and
is used by many as an appetizing food. The cracknels may be pressed and
thus much more lard secured. This latter, however, should be used before
the best lard put away in tubs. After being pressed the cracknels are worked
into a dough with corn meal and together made into cracknel bread.

BRAWN

is comparatively little used in this country, though formerly a highly

relished dish in Europe, where it was often prepared from the flesh of the
wild boar. An ancient recipe is as follows: "The bones being taken out of
the flitches (sides) or other parts, the flesh is sprinkled with salt and laid on
a tray, that the blood may drain off, after which it is salted a little and rolled
up as hard as possible. The length of the collar of brawn should be as much
as one side of the boar will permit; so that when rolled up the piece may be
nine or ten inches in diameter. After being thus rolled up, it is boiled in a
copper or large kettle, till it is so tender that you may run a stiff straw
through it. Then it is set aside till it is thoroughly cold, put into a pickle
composed of water, salt, and wheat-bran, in the proportion of two handfuls
of each of the latter to every gallon of water, which, after being well boiled
together, is strained off as clear as possible from the bran, and, when quite
cold, the brawn is put into it."

HEAD CHEESE.

This article is made usually of pork, or rather from the meat off the pig's
head, skins, and coarse trimmings. After having been well boiled, the meat
is cut into pieces, seasoned well with sage, salt, and pepper, and pressed a
CHAPTER VI. 47

little, so as to drive out the extra fat and water. Some add the meat from a
beef head to make it lean. Others add portions of heart and liver, heating all
in a big pan or other vessel, and then running through a sausage mill while
hot.

BLOOD PUDDINGS

are usually made from the hog's blood with chopped pork, and seasoned,
then put in casings and cooked. Some make them of beef's blood, adding a
little milk; but the former is the better, as it is thought to be the richer.

SPICED PUDDINGS.

These are made somewhat like head-cheese, and often prepared by the
German dealers, some of whom make large quantities. They are also made
of the meat from the pig's chops or cheeks, etc., well spiced and boiled.
Some smoke them.
CHAPTER VII. 48

CHAPTER VII.

THE FINE POINTS IN MAKING LARD.

Pure lard should contain less than one per cent of water and foreign matter.
It is the fat of swine, separated from the animal tissue by the process of
rendering. The choicest lard is made from the whole "leaf." Lard is also
made by the big packers from the residue after rendering the leaf and
expressing a "neutral" lard, which is used in the manufacture of
oleomargarine. A good quality of lard is made from back-fat and leaf
rendered together. Fat from the head and intestines goes to make the
cheaper grades. Lard may be either "kettle" or "steam rendered," the kettle
process being usually employed for the choicer fat parts of the animal,
while head and intestinal fat furnish the so-called "steam lard." Steam lard,
however, is sometimes made from the leaf. On the other hand, other parts
than the leaf are often kettle rendered. Kettle rendered lard usually has a
fragrant cooked odor and a slight color, while steam lard often has a strong
animal odor.

TO REFINE LARD,

a large iron pot is set over a slow fire of coals, a small quantity of water is
put into the bottom of the pot, and this is then filled to the brim with the fat,
after it has first been cut into small pieces and nicely washed, to free it from
blood and other impurities. If necessary to keep out soot, ashes, etc., loose
covers or lids are placed over the vessels, and the contents are made to
simmer slowly for several hours. This work requires a careful and
experienced hand to superintend it. Everything should be thoroughly clean,
and the attendant must possess patience and a practical knowledge of the
work. It will not do to hurry the cooking. A slow boil or simmer is the
proper way. The contents are occasionally stirred as the cooking proceeds,
to prevent burning. The cooking is continued until the liquid ceases to
bubble and becomes clear. So long as there is any milky or cloudy
appearance about the fat, it contains water, and in this condition will not
keep well in summer--a matter of importance to the country housekeeper.
CHAPTER VII. 49

It requires six to eight hours constant cooking to properly refine a kettle or

pot of fat. The time will depend, of course, somewhat upon the size of the
vessel containing it and the thickness of the fat, and also upon the attention
bestowed upon it by the cook. By close watching, so as to keep the fire just
right all the time, it will cook in a shorter period, and vice versa. When the
liquid appears clear the pots are set aside for the lard to cool a little before
putting it into the vessels in which it is to be kept. The cracknels are first
dipped from the pots and put into colanders, to allow the lard to drip from
them. Some press the cracknels, and thus get a good deal more lard. As the
liquid fat is dipped from the pots it is carefully strained through fine
colanders or wire sieves. This is done to rid it of any bits of cracknel, etc.,
that may remain in the lard. Some country people when cooking lard add a
few sprigs of rosemary or thyme, to impart a pleasant flavor to it. A slight
taste of these herbs is not objectionable. Nothing else whatever is put into
the lard as it is cooked, and if thoroughly done, nothing else is needed. A
little salt is sometimes added, to make it firmer and keep it better in
summer, but the benefit, if any, is slight, and too much salt is objectionable.

LEAF LARD.

In making lard, all the leaf or flake fat, the two leaves of almost solid fat
that grow just above the hams on either side about the kidneys, and the
choice pieces of fat meat cut off in trimming the pork should be tried or
rendered first and separate from the remainder. This fat is the best and
makes what is called the leaf lard. It may be put in the bottom of the cans,
for use in summer, or else into separate jars or cans, and set away in a cool
place. The entrail fat and bits of fat meat are cooked last and put on top of
the other, or into separate vessels, to be used during cool weather. This lard
is never as good as the other, and will not keep sweet as long; hence the
pains taken by careful housewives to keep the two sorts apart. It must be
admitted, however, that many persons, when refining lard for market, do
not make any distinction, but lump all together, both in cooking and
afterward. But for pure, honest "leaf" lard not a bit of entrail fat should be
mixed with the flakes.

A PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT POINT

CHAPTER VII. 50

in making lard is to take plenty of time. The cooking must not be hurried in
the least. It requires time to thoroughly dry out all the water, and the
keeping quality of the lard depends largely upon this. A slow fire of coals
only should be placed under the kettle, and great care exercised that no
spark snaps into it, to set fire to the hot oil. It is well to have at hand some
close-fitting covers, to be put immediately over the kettle, closing it tightly
in case the oil should take fire. The mere exclusion of air will put out the
fire at once. Cook slowly in order not to burn any of the fat in the least, as
that will impart a very unpleasant flavor to the lard. The attendants should
stir well with a long ladle or wooden stick during the whole time of
cooking. It requires several hours to thoroughly cook a vessel of lard, when
the cracknels will eventually rise to the top.

A cool, dry room, such as a basement, is the best place for keeping lard.
Large stone jars are perhaps the best vessels to keep it in, but tins are
cheaper, and wooden casks, made of oak, are very good. Any pine wood,
cedar or cypress will impart a taste of the wood. The vessels must be kept
closed, to exclude litter, and care should be observed to prevent ants, mice,
etc., from getting to the lard. A secret in keeping lard firm and good in hot
weather is first to cook it well, and then set it in a cool, dry cellar, where
the temperature remains fairly uniform throughout the year. Cover the
vessels after they are set away in the cellar with closely fitting tops over a
layer of oiled paper.
CHAPTER VIII. 51

CHAPTER VIII.

PICKLING AND BARRELING.

For salt pork, one of the first considerations is a clean barrel, which can be
used over and over again after yearly renovation. A good way to clean the
barrel is to place about ten gallons of water and a peck of clean wood ashes
in the barrel, then throw in well-heated irons, enough to boil the water,
cover closely, and by adding a hot iron occasionally, keep the mixture
boiling a couple of hours. Pour out, wash thoroughly with fresh water, and
it will be as sweet as a new barrel. Next cover the bottom of the barrel with
coarse salt, cut the pork into strips about six inches wide, stand edgewise in
the barrel, with the skin next the outside, until the bottom is covered. Cover
with a thick coat of salt, so as to hide the pork entirely. Repeat in the same
manner until the barrel is full, or the pork all in, covering the top thickly
with another layer of salt. Let stand three or four days, then put on a heavy
flat stone and sufficient cold water to cover the pork. After the water is on,
sprinkle one pound best black pepper over all. An inch of salt in the bottom
and between each layer and an inch and a half on top will be sufficient to
keep the pork without making brine.

When it is desired to pickle pork by pouring brine over the filled barrel, the
following method is a favorite: Pack closely in the barrel, first rubbing the
salt well into the exposed ends of bones, and sprinkle well between each
layer, using no brine until forty-eight hours after, and then let the brine be
strong enough to bear an egg. After six weeks take out the hams and bacon
and hang in the smokehouse. When warm weather brings danger of flies,
smoke a week with hickory chips; avoid heating the air much. If one has a
dark, close smokehouse, the meat can hang in it all summer; otherwise pack
in boxes, putting layers of sweet, dry hay between. This method of packing
is preferred by some to packing in dry salt or ashes.

[Illustration: FIG. 16. BOX FOR SALTING MEATS.]

RENEWING PORK BRINE.

CHAPTER VIII. 52

Not infrequently from insufficient salting and unclean barrels, or other

cause, pork placed in brine begins to spoil, the brine smells bad, and the
contents, if not soon given proper attention, will be unfit for food. As soon
as this trouble is discovered, lose no time in removing the contents from the
barrel, washing each piece of meat separately in clean water. Boil the brine
for half an hour, frequently removing the scum and impurities that will rise
to the surface. Cleanse the barrel thoroughly by washing with hot water and
hard wood ashes. Replace the meat after sprinkling it with a little fresh salt,
putting the purified brine back when cool, and no further trouble will be
experienced, and if the work be well done, the meat will be sweet and firm.
Those who pack meat for home use do not always remove the blood with
salt. After meat is cut up it is better to lie in salt for a day and drain before
being placed in the brine barrel.

A HANDY SALTING BOX.

A trough made as shown at Fig. 16 is very handy for salting meats, such as
hams, bacon and beef, for drying. It is made of any wood which will not
flavor the meat; ash, spruce or hemlock plank, one and a half inches thick,
being better than any others. A good size is four feet long by two and
one-half wide and one and one-half deep. The joints should be made tight
with white lead spread upon strips of cloth, and screws are vastly better
than nails to hold the trough together.
CHAPTER IX. 53

CHAPTER IX.

CARE OF HAMS AND SHOULDERS.

In too many instances farmers do not have the proper facilities for curing
hams, and do not see to it that such are at hand, an important point in
success in this direction. A general cure which would make a good ham
under proper conditions would include as follows: To each 100 lbs. of ham
use seven and a half pounds Liverpool fine salt, one and one-half pounds
granulated sugar and four ounces saltpeter. Weigh the meat and the
ingredients in the above proportions, rub the meat thoroughly with this
mixture and pack closely in a tierce. Fill the tierce with water and roll every
seven days until cured, which in a temperature of 40 to 50 degrees would
require about fifty days for a medium ham. Large hams take about ten days
more for curing. When wanted for smoking, wash the hams in water or
soak for twelve hours. Hang in the smokehouse and smoke slowly
forty-eight hours and you will have a very good ham. While this is not the
exact formula followed in big packing houses, any more than are other
special recipes given here, it is a general ham cure that will make a
first-class ham in every respect if proper attention is given it.

Another method of pickling hams and shoulders, preparatory to smoking,

includes the use of molasses. Though somewhat different from the above
formula, the careful following of directions cannot fail to succeed
admirably. To four quarts of fine salt and two ounces of pulverized
saltpeter, add sufficient molasses to make a pasty mixture. The hams
having hung in a dry, cool place for three or four days after cutting up, are
to be covered all over with the mixture, more thickly on the flesh side, and
laid skin side down for three or four days. In the meantime, make a pickle
of the following proportions, the quantities here named being for 100 lbs.
of hams. Coarse salt, seven pounds; brown sugar, five pounds; saltpeter,
two ounces; pearlash or potash, one-half ounce; soft water, four gallons.
Heat gradually and as the skim rises remove it. Continue to do this as long
as any skim rises, and when it ceases, allow the pickle to cool. When the
hams have remained the proper time immersed in this mixture, cover the
bottom of a clean, sweet barrel with salt about half an inch deep. Pack in
CHAPTER IX. 54

the hams as closely as possible, cover them with the pickle, and place over
them a follower with weights to keep them down. Small hams of fifteen
pounds and less, also shoulders, should remain in the pickle for five weeks;
larger ones will require six to eight weeks, according to size. Let them dry
well before smoking.

WESTPHALIAN HAMS.

This particular style has long been a prime favorite in certain markets of
Europe, and to a small extent in this country also. Westphalia is a province
of Germany in which there is a large industry in breeding swine for the
express purpose of making the most tender meat with the least proportion
of fat. Another reason for the peculiar and excellent qualities which have
made Westphalian hams so famous, is the manner of feeding and growing
for the hams, and finally the preserving, curing, and last of all, smoking the
hams. The Ravensberg cross breed of swine is a favorite for this purpose.
They are rather large animals, having slender bodies, flat groins, straight
snouts and large heads, with big, overhanging ears. The skin is white, with
straight little bristles.

A principal part of the swine food in Westphalia is potatoes; these are

cooked and then mashed in the potato water. The pulp thus obtained is
thoroughly mixed with wheat bran in a dry, raw state; little corn is used. In
order to avoid overproduction of fat and at the same time further the growth
of flesh of young pigs, some raw cut green feed, such as cabbage, is used;
young pigs are also fed sour milk freely. In pickling the hams they are first
vigorously rubbed with saltpeter and then with salt. The hams are pressed
in the pickling vat and entirely covered with cold brine, remaining in salt
three to five weeks. After this they are taken out of the pickle and hung in a
shady but dry and airy place to "air-dry." Before the pickled hams can be
put in smoke they are exposed for several weeks to this drying in the open
air. As long as the outside of the ham is not absolutely dry, appearing moist
or sticky, it is kept away from smoke.

Smoking is done in special large chambers, the hams being hung from the
ceiling. In addition to the use of sawdust and wood shavings in making
CHAPTER IX. 55

smoke, branches of juniper are often used, and occasionally beech and alder
woods; oak and resinous woods are positively avoided. The smoking is
carried on slowly. It is recommended to smoke for a few days cautiously,
that is, to have the smoke not too strong. Then expose the hams for a few
days in the fresh air, repeating in this way until they are brown enough. The
hams are actually in smoke two or three weeks, thus the whole process of
smoking requires about six weeks. Hams are preserved after their smoking
in a room which is shady, not accessible to the light, but at the same time
dry, cool and airy.

THE PIG AND THE ORCHARD.

The two go together well. The pig stirs up the soil about the trees, letting in
the sunshine and moisture to the roots and fertilizing them, while devouring
many grubs that would otherwise prey upon the fruit. But many orchards
cannot be fenced and many owners of fenced orchards, even, would like to
have the pig confine his efforts around the trunk of each tree. To secure this
have four fence panels made and yard the pig for a short time in succession
about each tree, as suggested in the diagram, Fig. 17.

[Illustration: FIG. 17. FENCE FOR ORCHARD TREE.]

CHAPTER X. 56

CHAPTER X.

DRY SALTING BACON AND SIDES.

For hogs weighing not over 125 or 130 lbs. each, intended for dry curing,
one bushel fine salt, two pounds brown sugar and one pound saltpeter will
suffice for each 800 lbs. pork before the meat is cut out; but if the meat is
large and thick, or weighs from 150 to 200 lbs. per carcass, from a gallon to
a peck more of salt and a little more of both the other articles should be
taken. Neither the sugar nor the saltpeter is absolutely necessary for the
preservation of the meat, and they are often omitted. But both are
preservatives; the sugar improves the flavor of the bacon, and the saltpeter
gives it greater firmness and a finer color, if used sparingly. Bacon should
not be so sweet as to suggest the "sugar-cure;" and saltpeter, used too
freely, hardens the tissues of the meat, and renders it less palatable. The
quantity of salt mentioned is enough for the first salting. A little more

NEW SALT IS ADDED AT THE SECOND SALTING

and used together with the old salt that has not been absorbed. If sugar and
saltpeter are used, first apply about a teaspoonful of pulverized saltpeter on
the flesh side of the hams and shoulders, and then taking a little sugar in the
hand, apply it lightly to the flesh surface of all the pieces. A tablespoonful
is enough for any one piece.

If the meat at the time of salting is moist and yielding to the touch, rubbing
the skin side with the gloved hand, or the "sow's ear," as is sometimes
insisted on, is unnecessary; the meat will take salt readily enough without
this extra labor. But if the meat is rigid, and the weather very cold, or if the
pieces are large and thick, rubbing the skin side to make it yielding and
moist causes the salt to penetrate to the center of the meat and bone. On the
flesh side it is only necessary to sprinkle the salt over all the surface. Care
must be taken to get some salt into every depression and into the hock end
of all joints. An experienced meat salter goes over the pieces with great
expedition. Taking a handful of the salt, he applies it dextrously by a
gliding motion of the hand to all the surface, and does not forget the hock
CHAPTER X. 57

end of the bones where the feet have been cut off. Only dry salt is used in
this method of curing. The meat is never put into brine or "pickle," nor is
any water added to the salt to render it more moist.

BEST DISTRIBUTION OF THE SALT.

A rude platform or bench of planks is laid down, on which the meat is

packed as it is salted. A boy hands the pieces to the packer, who lays down
first a course of middlings and then sprinkles a little more salt on all the
places that do not appear to have quite enough. Next comes a layer of
shoulders and then another layer of middlings, until all these pieces have
been laid. From time to time a little more salt is added, as appears to be
necessary. The hams are reserved for the top layer, the object being to
prevent them from becoming too salt. In a large bulk of meat the brine, as it
settles down, lodges upon the lower pieces, and some of them get rather
more than their quota of salt. Too much saltiness spoils the hams for
first-class bacon. In fact, it spoils any meat to have it too salt, but it requires
less to spoil the hams, because, as a rule, they are mostly lean meat. The
jowls, heads and livers, on account of the quantity of blood about them, are
put in a separate pile, after being salted. The chines and spareribs are but
slightly salted and laid on top of the bulk of neat meat. The drippings of
brine and blood from the meat are collected in buckets and sent to the
compost heaps. If there are rats, they must be trapped or kept out in some
way. Cats, also, should be excluded from the house. Close-fitting boxes,
which some use to keep the rats from the meat, are not the best; the meat
needs air.

In ten days to three weeks, according to weather and size of the meat, break
bulk and resalt, using the old salt again, with just a little new salt added. In
four to six weeks more, or sooner, if need be, break up and wash the meat
nicely, preparatory to smoking it. Some farmers do not wash the salt off,
but the meat receives smoke better and looks nicer, if washed.

CURING PORK FOR THE SOUTH.

CHAPTER X. 58

This requires a little different treatment. It is dry-salted and smoked. The

sides, hams and shoulders are laid on a table and rubbed thoroughly with
salt and saltpeter (one ounce to five pounds of salt), clear saltpeter being
rubbed in around the ends of the bones. The pieces are laid up, with salt
between, and allowed to lie. The rubbing is repeated at intervals of a week
until the meat is thoroughly salted through, and it is then smoked. It must
afterward be left in the smokehouse, canvased or buried in a box of ashes,
to protect it from the flies.
CHAPTER XI. 59

CHAPTER XI.

SMOKING AND SMOKEHOUSES.

For best quality of bacon, the proper meat is of first importance. Withes or
strings of basket wood, bear's grass, or coarse, stout twine, one in the hock
end of each ham and shoulder, and two in the thick side of each middling,
are fastened in the meat by which to suspend it for smoking. Before it is
hung up the entire flesh surface of the hams and shoulders, and sometimes
the middlings also, is sprinkled thickly with fine black pepper, using a large
tin pepper box to apply it. Sometimes a mixture of about equal parts of
black and red pepper helps very much to impart a good flavor to the meat.
It was thought formerly that black pepper, applied to meat before smoking
it, would keep the bacon bug (Dermestes) "skippers" from being
troublesome. But it is now known that the skipper skips just as lively where
the pepper is. The meat is hung upon sticks or on hooks overhead very
close together, without actually touching, and is ready for smoking.

THE SMOKEHOUSE.

The meat house is of course one with an earth, brick, or cement floor,
where the fire for the smoke is made in a depression in the center of the
room, so as to be as far as possible from the walls. A few live coals are laid
down, and a small fire is made of some dry stuff. As it gets well to burning,
the fire is smothered with green hickory or oak wood, and a basket of green
chips from the oak or hickory woodpile is kept on hand and used as
required to keep the fire smothered so as to produce a great smoke and but
little blaze. If the chips are too dry they are kept wet with water. Care is
taken not to allow the fire to get too large and hot, so as to endanger the
meat hung nearest to it. Should the fire grow too strong, as it sometimes
will, a little water is thrown on, a bucketful of which is kept always on
hand. The fire requires constant care and nursing to keep up a good smoke
and no blaze. Oak and hickory chips or wood impart the best color to meat.
Some woods, as pine, ailanthus, mulberry and persimmon, are very
objectionable, imparting a disagreeable flavor to the bacon. Corn cobs
make a good smoke for meat, but they must be wet before laying them on
CHAPTER XI. 60

the fire. Hardwood sawdust is sometimes advantageously used in making a

fire for smoking meats. No blaze is formed, and if it burns too freely can be
readily checked by sprinkling a little water upon it. This is a popular
method in parts of Europe, and in that country damp wheat straw is also
sometimes used to some extent.

COMBINED SMOKEHOUSE AND OVEN.

The oven, shown in Fig. 18, occupies the front and that part of the interior
which is represented in our illustration by the dotted lines. The smokehouse
occupies the rear, and extends over the oven. The advantages of this kind of
building are the perfect dryness secured, which is of great importance in
preserving the meat, and the economy in building the two together, as the
smoke that escapes from the oven may be turned into the smokehouse. This
latter feature, however, will not commend itself to many who prefer the use
of certain kinds of fuel in smoking which are not adapted to burning in a
bake oven.

[Illustration: FIG. 18. COMBINATION SMOKEHOUSE AND OVEN.]

Cloudy and damp days are the best for smoking meat. It seems to receive
the smoke more freely in such weather, and there is also less danger of fire.
The smoke need not be kept up constantly, unless one is in a hurry to sell
the meat. Half a day at a time on several days a week, for two or three
weeks, will give the bacon that bright gingerbread color which is generally
preferred. It should not be made too dark with smoke. It is a good plan,
after the meat is smoked nearly enough, to smoke it occasionally for half a
day at a time all through the spring until late in May. It is thought that
smoke does good in keeping the Dermestes out of the house. The work of
smoking may be finished up in a week, if one prefers, by keeping up the
smoke all day and at night until bedtime. Some smoke more, others less,
according to fancy as to color. No doubt, the more it is smoked, the better
the bacon will keep through the summer. But it need not, and, in fact,
should not, be made black with smoke.
CHAPTER XI. 61

It is necessary, before the smoking is quite completed, to remove the meat

that is in the center just over the fire to one side, and to put the pieces from
the sides in the center. The meat directly over the smoke colors faster than
that on the sides, although the house is kept full of smoke constantly. Some
farmers do not care to risk the safety of their meat by having an open fire
under it, and so set up an old stove, either in the room or on the outside, in
which latter case a pipe lets the smoke into the house. A smoldering fire is
then kept up with corn cobs or chips. But there is almost as much danger
this way as the other. The stovepipe may become so hot as to set fire to the
walls of the house where it enters, or a blaze may be carried within if there
is too much fire in the stove. There is some risk either way, but with a
properly built smokehouse, there is no great danger from the plan
described.

THE MEAT IS NOW CURED

and, if these directions have been observed, the farmer has a supply of
bacon as good as the world can show. Some may prefer a "shorter cut"
from the slaughter pen to the baking pan, and with their pyroligenous acid
may scout the old-fashioned smoke as heathenish, and get their bacon ready
for eating in two hours after the salt has struck in. But they never can show
such bacon by their method as we can by ours. There is but one way to
have this first-class bacon and ham, and that way is the one herein
portrayed.

TO MAKE A SMOKEHOUSE FIREPROOF

as far as the stove ashes are concerned, is not necessarily an expensive job;
all that is required is to lay up a row of brick across one end, also two or
three feet back upon each side, connecting the sides with a row across the
building, making it at least two feet high. As those who have a smokehouse
use it nearly every year, that part can also be made safe from fire by the
little arch built at the point shown in the illustration, Fig. 19. The whole is
laid up in mortar, and to add strength to the structure an iron rod or bar may
be placed across the center of the bin and firmly imbedded in the mortar,
two or three rows of brick from the top. Of course, the rear of the arch is
CHAPTER XI. 62

also bricked up. In most cases, less than 250 brick will be all that is
required.

[Illustration: FIG. 19. FIREPROOFING A SMOKEHOUSE.]

A WELL ARRANGED SMOKEHOUSE.

A simple but satisfactory smokehouse is shown in the illustration, Fig. 20,

and can be constructed on the farm at small cost. It is so arranged as to give
direct action of smoke upon the meat within, and yet free from the
annoyance that comes from entering a smoke-filled room to replenish the
fire. The house is square, and of a size dependent upon the material one
may have yearly to cure by smoke. For ordinary use, a house ten feet square
will be ample. There are an entrance door on one side and a small window
near the top that can be opened from the outside to quickly free the inside
from the smoke when desired. At the bottom of one side is a small door,
from which extends a small track to the center of the room. Upon this slides
a square piece of plank, moved by an iron rod with a hook on one end. On
the plank is placed an old iron kettle, Fig. 21, with four or five inches of
earth in the bottom, and upon this is the fire to be built. The kettle can be
slid to the center of the room with an iron rod and can be drawn to the small
door at any time to replenish the fire without entering the smoky room or
allowing the smoke to come out. The house has an earthen floor and a tight
foundation of stone or brick. The walls should be of matched boarding and
the roof shingled. The building is made more attractive in appearance if the
latter is made slightly "dishing."

[Illustration: FIG. 20. FARM SMOKEHOUSE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 21. FIRE, KETTLE AND TRACK.]

SMOKING MEATS IN A SMALL WAY.

A fairly good substitute for a smokehouse, where it is desired to improvise

something for temporary use in smoking hams or other meat, may be found
in a large cask or barrel, arranged as shown in the engraving, Fig. 22. To
CHAPTER XI. 63

make this effective, a small pit should be dug, and a flat stone or a brick
placed across it, upon which the edge of the cask will rest. Half of the pit is
beneath the barrel and half of it outside. The head and bottom may be
removed, or a hole can be cut in the bottom a little larger than the portion of
the pit beneath the cask. The head or cover is removed, while the hams are
hung upon cross sticks. These rest upon two cross bars, made to pass
through holes bored in the sides of the cask, near the top. The head is then
laid upon the cask and covered with sacks to confine the smoke. Some
coals are put into the pit outside of the cask, and the fire is fed with damp
corn cobs, hardwood chips, or fine brush. The pit is covered with a flat
stone, by which the fire may be regulated, and it is removed when
necessary to add more fuel.

[Illustration: FIG. 22. A BARREL SMOKEHOUSE.]

ANOTHER BARREL SMOKEHOUSE.

For those who have only the hams and other meats from one or two hogs to
smoke, a practicable smokehouse, like that shown in Fig. 23, will serve the
purpose fairly well. A large barrel or good-sized cask should be used, with
both heads removed. A hole about a foot deep is dug to receive it, and then
a trench of about the same depth and six or eight feet long, leading to the
fireplace. In this trench can be laid old stovepipe and the ground filled in
around it. The meat to be smoked is suspended in the barrel and the lid put
on, but putting pieces under it, so there will be enough draft to draw the
smoke through. By having the fire some distance from the meat, one gets
the desired amount of smoke and avoids having the meat overheated.

[Illustration: FIG. 23. BARREL SMOKEHOUSE WITH FRENCH

DRAFT.]
CHAPTER XII. 64

CHAPTER XII.

KEEPING BACONS AND HAMS.

The ideal meat house or smokehouse is a tall frame structure, twelve by

fifteen or fifteen by eighteen feet, underpinned solidly with brick set a foot
or more into the ground, or with a double set of sills, the bottom set being
buried in the soil. This mode of underpinning is designed to prevent thieves
from digging under the wall and into the house. Stout, inch-thick boards are
used for the weatherboarding, and sometimes the studs are placed near
enough together to prevent a person from getting through between them.
The house is built tall to give more room for meat and to have it farther
from the fire while it is being smoked. The weatherboarding and the roof
should be tight to prevent too free escape of the smoke. No window, and
but one door, is necessary. The floor should be of clay, packed firm, or else
laid in cement or brick. Indeed, it would be better to have the entire walls
built of brick, but this would add considerably to the cost of construction.

THE ROOM SHOULD BE LARGE ENOUGH

to admit of a platform on one or both sides, upon which to pack the pork
when salted. There should be a salt barrel, a large wooden tray made of
plank, in which to salt the meat, and a short, handy ladder for reaching the
upper tier of joists. A large basket for holding chips, a tub for water when
smoking meat, a large chopping block and a meat axe, for the convenience
of the cook, are necessary articles for the meat house. Nothing else should
be allowed to cumber the room to afford a harbor for rats or to present
additional material for a blaze, in case a spark from the fire should snap out
to a distance. The house should be kept neatly swept, and rats should not be
allowed to make burrows under anything in the room. The floor of the meat
house should always be of some hard material like cement or brick, or else
clay pummeled very hard, so that there would be no hiding place for the
pupae of the Dermestes (parent of the "skipper").

The skipper undergoes one or two moltings while in the meat, and at last
drops from the bacon to the floor, where, if the earth is loose, it burrows
CHAPTER XII. 65

into the ground and, remaining all winter, comes out a perfect beetle in
spring. A hard, impervious floor will prevent it from doing this, and compel
it to seek a nesting place elsewhere. The reason why country bacon is
sometimes so badly infested with the skipper is that the house and floor
afford or become an excellent incubator, as it were, for the Dermestes, and
the bacon bugs become so numerous that all the meat gets infested with
them. In case the floor of the smokehouse is soft and yielding, it becomes
necessary each winter, before the meat is packed to salt, to remove about
two inches of the soil and put in fresh earth or clay in its place. Thus, many
of the insects would be carried out, where they would be destroyed. The
walls and roof of the room on the interior should also be swept annually to
dislodge any pupae that might be hibernating in the cracks and crevices.
With these precautions, there should not be many of the pests left within
the building, though it is a hard matter when a house once gets badly
infested to dislodge them entirely. There are so many hiding places about a
plain shingle roof that it is next to impossible not to have some of these
insects permanently lodged in the meat house. But with a good, hard floor,
frequent sweeping and the use of plenty of black pepper on the meat, the
number of the Dermestes should be reduced to the minimum.

BACON KEEPS NOWHERE SO WELL

as in the house where it is smoked, and if the bugs do not get too numerous
it is decidedly better to allow it to remain hanging there. Bacon needs air
and a cool, dry, dark room for keeping well in summer. The least degree of
dampness is detrimental, causing the bacon to mold. It has been noticed,
however, that moldy bacon is seldom infested with the skipper. Hence
some people, to keep away the skippers, hang their bacon in a cellar where
there is dampness, preferring to have it moldy rather than "skippery." Some
housekeepers preserve hams in close boxes or barrels, in a cool, dark room,
and succeed well. Others pack in shelled oats or bran, or wrap in old
newspapers and lay away on shelves or in boxes. Inclosing in cloth sacks
and painting the cloth is also practiced. All these plans are more or less
successful, but oblige the housekeeper to be constantly on the watch to
prevent mice and ants from getting to the bacon. But if anyone should
prefer
CHAPTER XII. 66

TO EXCLUDE THE BUGS ENTIRELY

from his meat the following contrivance is offered as a cheap and entirely
satisfactory arrangement: After the meat is thoroughly smoked, hang all of
it close together, or at least all the hams, in the center of the house, and
inclose it on all sides with a light frame over which is stretched thin cotton
cloth, taking care that there shall be no openings in the cloth or frame
through which the bugs might crawl. There let it hang all summer. This
contrivance will prevent the bug from getting at the meat to deposit its
eggs, and the thin, open fabric of the cloth will at the same time admit
plenty of air. The bottom or one side of the frame should be fixed upon
hinges, for convenience in getting at the bacon as wanted. As the bacon bug
comes out in March, or April farther south, in February it is necessary to
get the meat smoked and inclosed under the canvas before the bug leaves
its winter quarters. Hams may be thus kept in perfect condition as long as
may be desirable, and will remain sweet and nice many months.

BOX FOR STORING BACON.

If the smokehouse is very dark and close, so that the flies or bugs will not
be tempted to or can get in, all that is necessary is to have the meat hung on
the pegs; but, if not, even when the meat is bagged, there is still some risk
of worms. To provide a box that will be bugproof, ratproof, and at the same
time cool, as seen in the illustration, Fig. 24, make a frame one inch thick
and two or three inches wide, with a close plank bottom; cover the whole
box with wire cloth, such, as is used for screens. Let the wire cloth be on
the outside, so that the meat will not touch it. The top may be of plank and
fit perfectly tight, so that no insect can creep under. Of course, the box may
be of any size desired. It will be well to have the strips nailed quite closely
together, say, about one and a half inches apart. When the meat is put in,
lay sticks between, so that the pieces will not touch. If the box is made
carefully, it is bugproof and ratproof, affording ventilation at the same time,
and so preventing molding. Meat should be kept in a dry and cool place.

[Illustration: FIG. 24. SECURE BOX FOR STORING BACON.]

CHAPTER XIII. 67

CHAPTER XIII.

SIDELIGHTS ON PORK MAKING.

The trade in country dressed hogs varies materially from year to year. Since
the big packing houses have become so prominent in the industry there is,
of course, less done in country dressed hogs, yet a market is always found
for considerable numbers. Thirty years ago Chicago received as many as
350,000 dressed hogs in one year. With a growth of the packing industry
this business decreased, until 1892, when only 5000 were handled at
Chicago, but since that date there has been a revival of interest, with as
many as 60,000 received in 1894 and an ever changing number since that
date. Thirty years ago the number of hogs annually packed at Chicago was
about 700,000. This business has increased since to as many as 8,000,000
in a year, the industry in other packing centers being in much the same
proportion. At all packing centers in the west there are slaughtered annually
20,000,000 to 24,000,000 hogs.

Compared with the enormous numbers fattened and marketed on the hoof,
a very small proportion of the hogs turned off the farms each year are sold
dressed. Yet with many farmers, particularly those who have only a small
number to dispose of, it is always a question as to which is the better way to
sell hogs, dressed or alive. No individual experience can be taken as a
criterion, yet here is a record of what one Michigan farmer did in the way
of experiment. He had two lots of hogs to sell. One litter of seven weighed
a total of 1605 lbs. alive, and dressed 1,335 lbs., which was three pounds
over a one-sixth shrinkage; one litter of five weighed 1540 lbs. and dressed
1320 lbs., losing exactly one-seventh, they being very fat. The sow weighed
517 lbs. and dressed 425, dressing away about 18 lbs. to the 100 lbs. He
was offered $3.80 per 100 lbs. live weight, for all the hogs, and $3 for the
sow. He finally sold the seven hogs, dressed, at $5 per 100 lbs., the second
lot of five at $4.75, and the sow at $4.25. He decided that by dressing the
hogs before selling, he gained about $12.50, aside from lard and trimmings.
The experience here noted would not necessarily hold good anywhere and
any time. Methods employed in packing hogs have been brought down to
such a fine point, however, with practically every portion utilized, that
CHAPTER XIII. 68

unless a farmer has a well-defined idea where he can advantageously sell

his dressed pork, it would not pay, as a general thing, to butcher any
considerable number of hogs, with a view of thus disposing of them.

AN EASILY FILLED PIG TROUGH.

To get swill into a pig trough is no easy matter if the hogs cannot be kept
out until it is filled. The arrangement shown in Fig. 25 will be found of
much value and a great convenience. Before pouring in the swill, the front
end of the pen, in the form of a swinging door suspended from the top, is
placed in the position shown at b. The trough is filled and the door allowed
to assume the position shown at a.

[Illustration: FIG. 25. PIG TROUGH ATTACHMENT.]

AN AID IN RINGING HOGS.

A convenient trap for holding a hog while a ring is placed in its nose
consists of a trunk or a box without ends, 6 feet long, 30 inches high and 18
inches wide, inside measure. This trunk has a strong frame at one end, to
which the boards are nailed. The upper and lower slats are double, and
between them a strong lever has free play. To accommodate large or small
pigs, two pins are set in the lower slat, against which the lever can bear.
The pins do not go through the lever. This trunk is placed in the door of the
pen, and two men are required to hold it and ring the hogs. When a hog
enters and tries to go through, one man shoves the lever up, catching him
just back of the head, and holds him there. The second man then rings him,
and he is freed. Fig. 26 exhibits the construction of the trap, in the use of
which one can hold the largest hog with ease.

[Illustration: FIG. 26. TRAP FOR HOLDING HOG.]

AVERAGE WEIGHTS OF LIVE HOGS.

The average weight of all hogs received at Chicago in 1898 was 234 lbs.; in
1896, 246 lbs. The average weight of all hogs received at Chicago in 1895
CHAPTER XIII. 69

was 230 lbs.; in 1894, 233 lbs.; in 1893, 240 lbs.

EXTREMES IN MARKET PRICE OF PORK AND LARD.

The highest price of mess pork at Chicago during the last forty years,
according to the Daily Trade Bulletin, was $44 per bbl. in 1864, and the
lowest price $5.50 per bbl., paid in 1896. The highest price of lard was
naturally also in war times, 30c per lb. in 1865; the lowest price a shade
more than 3c, in 1896.

NET TO GROSS.

Good to prime hogs, when cut up into pork, hams, shoulders and lard, will
dress out 73 to 75 per cent, according to the testimony of the large packing
concerns. That is, for every 100 lbs. live weight, it is fair to estimate 73 to
75 lbs. of product of the classes named. If cut into ribs instead of pork,
prime hogs would net 70 to 72 per cent, while those which are not prime
run as low as 65 per cent. For comparative purposes, it may be well to note
here that good farm-fed cattle will dress 54 to 56 per cent of their live
weight in beef, the remainder being hide, fat, offal, etc., and sheep will
dress 48 to 54 per cent, 50 per cent being a fair average.

RELATIVE WEIGHTS OF PORTIONS OF CARCASS.

To determine the relation of the different parts of the hog as usually cut, to
the whole dressed weight, the Alabama experiment station reports the
following results. The test was made with a number of light hogs having an
average dressed weight of 137 lbs. The average weight of head was 12.2
lbs.; backbone, 6.8 lbs.; the two hams, 25.4 lbs.; the two shoulders, 33.1
lbs.; leaf lard, 8.3 lbs.; ribs, 5.5 lbs.; the two "middling" sides, 35 lbs.;
tender loin, 1.1 lbs.; feet, 3.6 lbs.

GATES FOR HANDLING HOGS.

The device shown in the accompanying illustrations for handling hogs

when they are to be rung or for other purposes, is very useful on the
CHAPTER XIII. 70

ordinary farm. Fig. 27 represents a chute and gate which will shut behind
and before the hog and hold him in position. There is just room enough for
him to stick his nose out, and while in this position rings can be inserted.
The sides of the chute must be much closer together than shown in the
engraving, so that the hog cannot turn about. In fact, the width should be
just sufficient to allow the hog to pass through. Fig. 28 represents the side
view of another gate and pen, so arranged that the door can be opened and
shut without getting into the pen.

[Illustration: FIG. 27. HOG CHUTE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 28. DEVICE FOR OPENING GATE.]

CHAPTER XIV. 71

CHAPTER XIV.

PACKING HOUSE CUTS OF PORK.

While considering primarily the proper curing of pork for use on the farm
and for home manufacture by farmers, it will not be out of the way to
become acquainted with some of the leading cuts of meat as made by the
big pork packers at Chicago and elsewhere. In the speculative markets, a
large business is done in "mess pork," "short ribs" and lard. These are
known as the speculative commodities in pork product. The prices
established, controlled largely by the amount offered and the character of
the demand, regulate to a considerable extent the market for other cuts of
pork, such as long clear middles, hams and shoulders. Our illustrations of
some of the leading cuts of meats, furnished us through the courtesy of
Hately Bros., prominent pork packers in Chicago, together with
accompanying descriptions, give a very good idea of the shape pork
product takes as handled in the big markets of the world.

[Illustration: FIG. 29. MESS PORK.]

[Illustration: FIG. 30. SHORT RIBS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 31. SHOULDER.]

MESS PORK.

This standard cut, Fig. 29, is made from heavy fat hogs. The hog is first
split down the back, the backbone being left on one side. Ham and
shoulders taken off, the sides are then cut in uniform strips of four or five
pieces. Equal portions of both sides are then packed in barrels, 200 lbs. net,
the pieces numbering not more than sixteen nor less than nine. Barrels to be
filled with a pickle made with 40 lbs. of salt to each barrel.

SHORT RIBS.
CHAPTER XIV. 72

These are made from the sides, with the ham and shoulder taken off and
backbone removed; haunchbone and breastbone sawed or cut down smooth
and level with the face of the side. The pieces (Fig. 30) are made to average
32 lbs. and over.

SHOULDERS.

Regular shoulders (Fig. 31), or commonly called dry salted shoulders, are
cut off the sides between first and second ribs, so as not to expose forearm
joint. Shank cut off at knee joint. Neck bone taken out and neck trimmed
smooth. Shoulders butted off square at top. Made to average 12 to 14, 14 to
16, and 16 to 18 lbs. On the wholesale markets can usually be bought at
about the price per pound of live hogs.

HAMS.

American cut hams are cut short inside the haunchbone, are well rounded at
butt and all fat trimmed off the face of the hams to make as lean as
possible. See Fig. 32. Cut off above the hock joint. Hams are made to
average 10 to 12, 12 to 14, 14 to 16, 16 to 18, and 18 to 20 lbs.

PICNIC HAMS.

This is a contradictory term, for the picnic ham is in truth a shoulder. Picnic
hams (Fig. 33) are made from shoulders cut off sides between second and
third ribs. Shank bone cut off one inch above knee joint, and neck bone
taken out. Butt taken off through the middle of the blade and nicely
rounded to imitate a ham. Made to average 5 to 6, 6 to 8, 8 to 10, and 10 to
14 lbs.

WILTSHIRE CUT BACON.

This cut (Fig. 34) is from hogs weighing about 150 lbs. Formerly the hair
was removed by singeing, but this method is not so much employed now.
The Wiltshire bacon is consumed almost entirely in London, Bristol and the
south of England generally.
CHAPTER XIV. 73

[Illustration: FIG. 32. AMERICAN CUT HAM.]

[Illustration: FIG. 33. PICNIC HAM.]

STANDARD LARD.

The following is the rule in force at Chicago for the manufacture of

standard prime steam lard: Standard prime steam lard shall be solely the
product of the trimmings and other fat parts of hogs, rendered in tanks by
the direct application of steam and without subsequent change in grain or
character by the use of agitators or other machinery, except as such change
may unavoidably come from transportation. It must have proper color,
flavor and soundness for keeping, and no material which has been salted
must be included. The name and location of the renderer and the grade of
the lard shall be plainly branded on each package at the time of packing.

NEUTRAL LARD.

This is made at the big packing houses from pure leaf lard, which after
being thoroughly chilled is rendered in open tanks at a temperature of about
120 degrees. The portion rendered at this temperature is run into packages
and allowed to cool before closing tightly.

Lard stearine is made from the fat of hogs which is rendered and then
pressed and the oil extracted. The oil is used for lubricating purposes, and
the stearine by lard refiners in order to harden the lard, especially in warm
weather.
CHAPTER XV. 74

CHAPTER XV.

MAGNITUDE OF THE SWINE INDUSTRY.

Were it not for the foreign demand for our pork and pork product there
would be much less profit in fattening hogs for market than there is,
irrespective of the price of corn and other feeds. England is our best
customer, taking by far the larger part of our entire exports of all lard, cured
meats and other hog product, but there is an encouraging trade with other
foreign countries. The authorities at Washington are making every effort to
enlarge this foreign outlet. Certain European countries, notably France and
Germany, place irksome embargoes on American pork product. Ostensibly,
these foreign governments claim the quality and healthfulness of some of
the American pork are in question, but in reality back of all this is the
demand from the German and French farmers that the competition afforded
by American pork must be kept down. It is believed that eventually all such
restrictions will be swept away, through international agreement, and that
thus our markets may be further extended, greatly benefiting the American
farmer. Our exports of hog product, including pork, bacon, hams and lard,
represent a value annually of about $100,000,000.

THE WORLD'S SUPPLY OF BACON

is derived chiefly from the United States, which enjoys an enormous trade
with foreign consuming countries, notably England and continental Europe.
Irish bacon is received with much favor in the English markets, while
Wiltshire and other parts of England also furnish large quantities, specially
cured, which are great favorites among consumers. Some idea of the
magnitude of the foreign trade of the United States, so far as hog product is
concerned, may be formed by a glance at the official figures showing our
exports in a single year. During the twelve months ended June 30, 1899, the
United States exported 563,000,000 lbs. bacon, 226,000,000 lbs. ham,
137,000,000 lbs. pickled pork and 711,000,000 lbs. lard, a total of 1,637
million pounds pork product. On the supposition that live hogs dress out,
roughly speaking, 70 per cent product, this suggests the enormous quantity
of 2,340 million pounds of live hogs taken for the foreign trade in one year.
CHAPTER XV. 75

Estimating the average weight at 240 lbs., this means nearly 10,000,000
hogs sent to American slaughterhouses in the course of one year to supply
our foreign trade with pork product. The United Kingdom is by far our best
customer, although we export liberal quantities to Belgium, Holland,
Germany, France, Canada, Brazil, Central America and the West Indies.
Total value of our 1899 exports of pork product was $116,000,000.

[Illustration: FIG. 34. WILTSHIRE CUT BACON.]

The enormous business of the big packing houses, located chiefly in the
west, with a few in the east, can scarcely be comprehended in its extent.
Chicago continues to hold the prestige of the largest packing center in the
world, but other western cities are crowding it. In 1891 Chicago received
8,600,000 hogs, the largest on record, most of which were packed in that
city, and the product shipped all over the world. In recent years the Chicago
receipts have averaged smaller, but the proportion going to the packing
concerns remains about the same. It is estimated that the hogs received at
that city in 1898 had a value of $84,000,000.

CO-OPERATIVE CURING HOUSES IN DENMARK.

About half the pork exported to England from Denmark is cured by the
co-operative curing houses, established first in 1888 and since that date
greatly increased in number. Enormous quantities of cheap Black Sea
barley have been brought into Denmark the last few years, used principally
for fodder. The principal advantage of the co-operative system, doing away
with the middleman, applies to these establishments. Farmers who raise
hogs in a given district of say ten to twenty miles' circumference, unite and
furnish the money necessary for the construction and operation of the
co-operative curing establishment. The farmers bind themselves to deliver
all hogs that they raise to the curing house, and severe fines are collected
when animals are sold elsewhere. At every curing house there is a shop for
the sale of sausage, fat, etc., these as a rule paying well and forming an
important part of the profits in this co-operation.

HOG PRICES AT CHICAGO, PER 100 POUNDS.

CHAPTER XV. 76

Heavy packing, Mixed packing, Light bacon. Year. 260 to 450 lbs. 200 to
250 lbs. 150 to 200 lbs.

1899 $3.10@4.75 $3.50@5.00 $3.75@5.00 1898 3.25@4.80 3.30@4.75

3.00@4.65 1897 3.00@4.50 3.20@4.60 3.20@4.65 1896 2.40@4.45
2.75@4.45 2.80@4.45 1895 3.25@5.45 3.25@5.55 3.25@5.70 1894
3.90@6.75 3.90@6.65 3.50@6.45 1893 3.80@8.75 4.25@8.65 4.40@8.50
1892 3.70@7.00 3.65@6.70 3.60@6.85 1891 3.25@5.70 3.25@5.75
3.15@5.95

TOTAL PACKING AND MARKETING OF HOGS.

[Year Ended March 1--Cincinnati Price Current.]

Receipts. Western Eastern N. Y., Phil. Packing. Packing. and Balto. Total.

1898-99 23,651,000 3,162,000 2,978,000 29,791,000 1897-98 20,201,000

3,072,000 2,861,000 26,134,000 1896-97 16,929,000 2,791,000 2,950,000
22,670,000 1895-96 15,010,000 2,603,000 2,867,000 20,480,000 1894-95
16,003,000 3,099,000 2,517,000 21,619,000 1893-94 11,605,000 2,701,000
2,483,000 16,789,000 1892-93 12,390,000 3,016,000 2,790,000 18,196,000
1892 14,457,000 2,771,000 3,684,000 20,912,000 1891 17,713,000
2,540,000 3,713,000 23,966,000

RECEIPTS OF HOGS AT LEADING POINTS BY YEARS.

[Stated in thousands--From American Agriculturist Year Book for 1898.]

1897 1896 1895 1894 1893 1892 1891

Chicago 8,364 7,659 7,885 7,483 6,057 7,714 8,601 Kansas City 3,351
2,606 2,458 2,547 1,948 2,397 2,599 Omaha 1,605 1,198 1,188 1,904 1,435
1,706 1,462 St. Louis 1,627 1,618 1,085 1,147 777 848 841 ---- ---- ---- ----
---- ---- ---- Total 14,947 13,081 12,616 13,081 10,217 12,665 13,503
CHAPTER XV. 77

[1]Cincinnati 875 823 773 639 592 587 816 Indianapolis 1,253 1,255 1,109
964 879 1,123 1,320 Cleveland 750 500 375 295 270 .. .. Detroit 320 224
189 164 149 134 87 ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- Total 3,198 2,802 2,346
1,062 1,890 1,844 2,223

New York 1,578 1,845 1,763 1,656 1,488 1,826 2,177 Boston 1,420 1,435
1,400 1,673 1,373 1,636 1,473 Buffalo 5,621 4,941 5,256 5,626 6,058
6,112 7,167 Pittsburg 1,894 1,340 1,063 1,074 999 1,347 1,428
Philadelphia 250 278 259 280 275 337 377 ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ----
Total 10,763 9,839 9,741 10,317 10,193 11,258 12,622

St. Paul 225 314 364 327 194 239 263 Sioux City 350 279 341 499 329 413
397 Cedar Rapids 487 358 365 317 293 409 502 St. Joseph, Mo 400 193
252 398 240 289 178 Ft. Worth, Tex 114 141 60 .. .. .. .. New Orleans 18
28 26 26 30 36 33 Denver 75 57 48 94 62 83 80 ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ----
Total 1,669 1,370 1,456 1,661 1,148 1,769 1,453

Montreal 93 89 74 87 70 52 43 Toronto 77 194 154 140 75 74 51 ---- ----

---- ---- ---- ---- ---- Total 170 283 228 227 145 126 94

1889 1888 1887

Chicago 5,999 4,922 5,471 Kansas City 2,074 2,009 2,423 Omaha 1,207
1,284 1,012 St. Louis 773 652 772 ---- ---- ---- Total 10,053 8,867 9,678

[1]Cincinnati .. .. .. Indianapolis 1,158 896 1,149 Cleveland .. .. .. Detroit

114 21 49 ---- ---- ---- Total .. .. ..

New York 1,762 1,550 1,792 Boston 1,152 1,046 1,047 Buffalo 5,776
5,333 5,074 Pittsburg 1,205 1,161 1,259 Philadelphia 332 281 274 ---- ----
---- Total 10,247 9,371 9,446

St. Paul 249 273 .. Sioux City 593 431 .. Cedar Rapids 346 307 847 St.
Joseph, Mo 253 258 .. Ft. Worth, Tex .. .. .. New Orleans .. .. .. Denver 75
64 54 ---- ---- ---- Total 1,516 1,333 ..
CHAPTER XV. 78

Montreal 23 26 .. Toronto 57 36 35 ---- ---- ---- Total 80 62 35

[1] For year ended March 31.

CRATE FOR MOVING SWINE OR OTHER ANIMALS.

It is often desirable to move a small animal from one building to another, or

from one pasture enclosure to another. The illustration, Fig. 35, shows a
crate on wheels, with handles permitting it to be used as a wheelbarrow.
Into this the pig can be driven, the door closed and the crate wheeled away.
It will also be found a very useful contrivance in bringing in calves that
have been dropped by their dams in the pasture.

[Illustration: FIG. 35. HANDY MOVABLE CRATE.]

CHAPTER XVI. 79

CHAPTER XVI.

DISCOVERING THE MERITS OF ROAST PIG.

By Charles Lamb.

The art of roasting, or rather broiling (which I take to be the elder brother)
was accidentally discovered in the manner following. The swineherd, Ho-ti,
having gone out into the woods one morning, as his manner was, to collect
mast for his hogs, left his cottage in the care of his eldest son, Bo-bo, a
great, lubberly boy, who, being fond of playing with fire, as younkers of his
age commonly are, let some sparks escape into a bundle of straw, which,
kindling quickly, spread the conflagration over every part of their poor
mansion, till it was reduced to ashes. Together with the cottage (a sorry,
antediluvian makeshift of a building, you may think it), what was of much
more importance, a fine litter of new-farrowed pigs, no less than nine in
number, perished. China pigs have been esteemed a luxury all over the east,
from the remotest periods that we read of. Bo-bo was in the utmost
consternation, as you may think, not so much for the sake of the tenement,
which his father and he could easily build up again with a few dry
branches, and the labor of an hour or two, at any time, as for the loss of the
pigs.

While he was thinking what he should say to his father, and wringing his
hands over the smoking remnants of one of those untimely sufferers, an
odor assailed his nostrils, unlike any scent which he had before
experienced. What could it proceed from?--not from the burnt cottage--he
had smelt that smell before--indeed, this was by no means the first accident
of the kind which had occurred through the negligence of this unlucky
firebrand. Much less did it resemble that of any known herb, weed or
flower. A premonitory moistening at the same time overflowed his nether
lip. He knew not what to think. He next stooped down to feel the pig, if
there were any signs of life in it. He burnt his fingers, and to cool them he
applied them in his booby fashion to his mouth. Some of the crumbs of the
scorched skin had come away with his fingers, and for the first time in his
life (in the world's life, indeed, for before him no man had known it), he
CHAPTER XVI. 80

tasted--crackling!

Again he felt and fumbled at the pig. It did not burn him so much now, still
he licked his fingers from a sort of habit. The truth at length broke into his
slow understanding, that it was the pig that smelt so, and the pig that tasted
so delicious, and, surrendering himself up to the new-born pleasure, he fell
to tearing up whole handfuls of the scorched skin with the flesh next it, and
was cramming it down his throat in his beastly fashion, when his sire
entered amid the smoking rafters, armed with retributory cudgel, and,
finding how affairs stood, began to rain blows upon the young rogue's
shoulders, as thick as hailstones, which Bo-bo headed not any more than if
they had been flies. The tickling pleasure, which he experienced in his
lower regions, had rendered him quite callous to any inconveniences that he
might feel in those remote quarters. His father might lay on, but he could
not beat him from his pig till he had made an end of it, when, becoming a
little more sensible of his situation, something like the following dialogue
ensued:

"You graceless whelp, what have you got there devouring? Is it not enough
that you have burnt me down three houses with your dog's tricks, and be
hanged to you! but you must be eating fire, and I know not what--what
have you got there, I say?"

"O, father, the pig, the pig! do come and taste how nice the burnt pig eats."

The ears of Ho-ti tingled with horror. He cursed his son, and he cursed
himself that ever he should beget a son that should eat burnt pig.

Bo-bo, whose scent was wonderfully sharpened since morning, soon raked
out another pig, and fairly rending it asunder, thrust the lesser half by main
force into the fists of Ho-ti, still shouting out, "Eat, eat, eat the burnt pig,
father, only taste--O Lord!" with suchlike barbarous ejaculations, cramming
all the while as if he would choke.

Ho-ti trembled in every joint while he grasped the abominable thing,

wavering whether he should not put his son to death for an unnatural young
CHAPTER XVI. 81

monster, when the crackling scorched his fingers, as it had done his son's,
and applying the same remedy to them, he in his turn tasted some of its
flavor, which, make what sour mouths he would for a pretence, proved not
altogether displeasing to him. In conclusion, both father and son fairly sat
down to the mess, and never left off till they had dispatched all that
remained of the litter.
CHAPTER XVII. 82

CHAPTER XVII.

COOKING AND SERVING PORK.

FIRST PRIZE WINNERS IN THE AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST

CONTEST FOR BEST RECIPES FOR COOKING AND SERVING
PORK.

PORK PIE.

Unless you have a brick oven do not attempt this dish, as it requires a long
and even baking, which no stove oven can give. Make a good pie crust and
line a large pan, one holding about 6 quarts; in the bottom put a layer of
thin slices of onions, then a layer of lean salt pork, which has been
previously browned in the frying pan, next place a layer of peeled apples,
which sprinkle with a little brown sugar, using 1/2 lb. sugar to 3 lbs. apples;
then begin with onions, which sprinkle with pepper, pork and apples again,
and so on until the dish is full. Wet the edges of the crust, put on the top
crust, well perforated, and bake at least four hours, longer if possible. These
pies are eaten hot or cold and are a great favorite with the English people.
Potatoes may be used in place of apples, but they do not give the meat so
fine a flavor.

PORK POTPIE.

Three pounds pork (if salt pork is used, freshen it well), cut into inch cubes.
Fry brown, add a large onion sliced, and a teaspoon each of chopped sage,
thyme and parsley. Cover with 5 pints of water and boil for two hours, add
a large pepper cut small or a pinch of cayenne, and a tablespoon of salt if
fresh pork has been used. Add also 3 pints vegetables, carrots, turnips and
parsnips cut small, boil half an hour longer, when add a pint of potatoes cut
into small pieces, and some dumplings. Cover closely, boil twenty minutes,
when pour out into a large platter and serve. The dumplings are made of 1
pint of flour, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon baking powder, sifted
together. Add 2 eggs, well beaten and 1 cup of milk. Mix out all the lumps
and drop by spoonfuls into the stew. Serve this potpie with a salad of
CHAPTER XVII. 83

dandelion leaves, dressed with olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.

PORK GUMBO.

Cut into small dice 2 lbs. lean pork. (In these recipes where the pork is
stewed or baked in tomatoes or water, salt pork may be used, provided it is
well freshened.) Fry the pork a pale brown, add 2 sliced onions, and when
these are brown add 3 bell peppers sliced, and 2 quarts peeled tomatoes,
with 2 teaspoons salt. Let boil gently, stirring frequently, for 1-1/2 hours.
Peel and cut small 1 pint of young tender okra pods, and add. Cover again
and boil half an hour longer. Cook in a lined saucepan, as tin will discolor
the okra. With this serve a large dish of rice or hominy. Corn may be used
in place of okra if the latter is disliked. The corn should be cut from the
cobs and added half an hour before dinner time.

SUCCOTASH.

Boil a piece of lean pork (about 5 lbs. in weight) in 3 quarts water, until the
meat is tender. The next day take out the pork, and remove the grease risen
on the liquor from the pork during cooking. To 3 pints of the liquor add 1
pint of milk and 1-1/2 pints lima beans. Let them boil until tender--about
one hour--when add 1-1/2 pints corn cut from the cob. Let the whole cook
for ten minutes, add a teaspoon of salt if necessary, half a teaspoon of
pepper, and drop in the pork to heat. When hot, pour into a tureen and
serve.

PORK PILLAU.

Take a piece of pork (about 4 lbs.) and 2 lbs. bacon. Wash and put to boil in
plenty of water, to which add a pepper pod, a few leaves of sage and a few
stalks of celery. One hour before dinner, dip out and strain 2 quarts of the
liquor in which the pork is boiling, add to it a pint of tomatoes peeled, a
small onion cut fine, and salt if necessary; boil half an hour, when add 1
pint of rice well washed. When it comes to a boil draw to the back of stove
and steam until the rice is cooked and the liquor absorbed. The pork must
boil three or four hours. Have it ready to serve with the rice. This makes a
CHAPTER XVII. 84

good dinner, with a little green salad, bread and butter and a good apple
pudding.

PORK ROLL.

Chop fine (a meat chopper will do the work well and quickly) 3 lbs. raw
lean pork and 1/4 lb. fat salt pork. Soak a pint of white bread crumbs in
cold water. When soft squeeze very dry, add to the chopped meat with a
large onion chopped fine, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoon each
of chopped sage and thyme, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Mix together
thoroughly and form into a roll, pressing it closely and compactly together.
Have ready about a tablespoon of fat in a frying pan, dredge the roll thickly
with flour and brown it in the fat, turning it until nicely browned on all
sides. Then place it in a baking pan, and bake in a hot oven for one hour.
Baste it every ten minutes with water. Do not turn or disturb the meat after
it has been put into the oven. Half an hour before dinner add 12 or 14 small
carrots that have been parboiled in salted boiling water for fifteen minutes.
When done, place the roll on a platter, surround it with plain boiled
macaroni, dot with the carrots and pour over all a nicely seasoned tomato
sauce.

PEPPER POT.

Cut 3 lbs. rather lean pork into 2-inch cubes, fry until brown, place in a
3-quart stone pot (a bean jar is excellent for this purpose) having a
close-fitting lid; add 2 large onions sliced, 6 large green peppers (the bell
peppers are the best, being fine in flavor and mild), a tablespoon of salt (if
fresh pork was used), and 3 large tomatoes peeled and cut small. Fill the
pot with water and place in the oven or on the back of the stove and allow
to simmer five or six hours, or even longer. The longer it is cooked the
better it will be. Persons who ordinarily cannot eat pork will find this dish
will do them no harm. The sauce will be rich and nicely flavored, and the
meat tender and toothsome. Serve with it plenty of boiled rice or potatoes.

PORK CROQUETTES (IN CABBAGE LEAVES).

CHAPTER XVII. 85

To 1 lb. lean pork chopped fine add 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon each of
pepper, chopped sage and thyme, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley and a large
onion also chopped. Mix well and stir in 2-3 cup (half-pint cup) of
well-washed raw rice. Wash a large cabbage, having removed all the
defective outer leaves. Plunge it whole into a large pot of boiling salted
water and boil for five minutes, remove and drain. This will render the
leaves pliable. Let cool a little, when pull the leaves apart, and wrap in each
leaf a tablespoon of the pork and rice. Wrap it up securely and neatly as if
tying up a parcel and secure with wooden toothpicks or twine. When all are
done, lay in a baking dish and cover with a quart of tomatoes peeled and
cut fine, mixed with half a pint of water, and a teaspoon of salt. Bake one
hour in a hot oven, turning the croquettes occasionally. If the sauce
becomes too thick, dilute with a little hot water. When done, dish, pour
over the sauce and serve with potatoes or hominy. These are very good
indeed. If desired the croquettes may be steamed over hot water in a
steamer for three hours, or plunged directly into a kettle of boiling water
and boiled for one hour. They are not so delicate as when baked.

PORK WITH PEA PUDDING (ENGLISH STYLE).

Boil the pork as directed above, and do not omit the vegetables, as they
flavor the meat and the pudding. Use the yellow split peas and soak a pint
in cold water over night. Drain and tie them loosely in a pudding bag and
boil with the pork for three hours. An hour before dinner remove and press
through a colander, add a teaspoon salt, half a teaspoon pepper and 3 eggs
well beaten. Chop enough parsley to make a teaspoonful, add to the peas
with a little grated nutmeg. Beat up well, sift in half a pint of flour and pour
into a pudding bag. The same bag used before will do if well washed. Tie it
up tightly, drop into the pork water again and boil another hour. Remove,
let drain in the colander a few minutes, when turn out onto a dish. Serve
with the pork, and any preferred sauce; mint sauce is good to serve with
pork, and a tomato sauce is always good. In fact, it is a natural hygienic
instinct which ordains a tart fruit or vegetable to be eaten with pork. The
Germans, who are noted for their freedom from skin diseases, add sour fruit
sauces to inordinately fat meats.
CHAPTER XVII. 86

PORK WITH SAUERKRAUT (GERMAN STYLE).

Boil a leg of pork for three or four hours, wash 2 quarts sauerkraut, put half
of it into an iron pot, lay on it the pork drained from the water in which it
was cooking and cover with the remainder of sauerkraut, add 1 quart water
in which the pork was cooking, cover closely and simmer gently for one
hour.

PORK CHOWDER.

Have ready a quart of potatoes sliced, 2 large onions sliced, and 1 lb. lean
salt pork. Cut the pork into thin slices and fry until cooked, drain off all but
1 tablespoon fat and fry the onions a pale brown. Then put the ingredients
in layers in a saucepan, first the pork, then onions, potatoes and so on until
used, adding to each layer a little pepper. Add a pint of water, cover closely
and simmer fifteen minutes, then add a pint of rich milk, and cover the top
with half a pound of small round crackers. Cover again and when the
crackers are soft, serve in soup plates. If you live where clams are plentiful,
add a quart of cleaved clams when the potatoes are almost done and cook
ten minutes.

SEA PIE.

Make a crust of 1 quart flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt,

mix well, rub in a tablespoon of fat--pork fat melted or lard--and mix into a
smooth paste with a pint of water. Line a deep pudding dish with this, put
in a layer of onions, then potatoes sliced, then a thin layer of pork in slices,
more onions, etc., until the dish is full. Wet the edges, put on a top crust.
Tie a floured cloth over the top and drop into a pot of boiling water. Let the
water come up two-thirds on the dish, and keep the water boiling for four
hours. Invert on a dish, remove the mold and serve hot.

For Fresh Pork Only.

CORN AND PORK SCALLOP.

CHAPTER XVII. 87

Cut about 2 lbs. young pork into neat chops and reject all fat and bone. Fry
them until well cooked and of a pale brown, dust with salt and pepper. Cut
some green corn from the cob. Take a 2-quart dish, put a layer of corn in
the bottom, then a layer of pork, and so on until the dish is full, add 1 pint
of water, cover and bake for one hour. Remove the cover fifteen minutes
before serving, so the top may be nicely browned. Serve with potatoes and
a lettuce salad. Onions and pork may be cooked in the same manner.

STUFFED SHOULDER OF PORK.

Take a shoulder of pork and bone it. Cut out the shoulder blade, and then
the leg bone. After the cut made to extract the shoulder blade, the flesh has
to be turned over the bone as it is cut, like a glove-finger on the hand; if any
accidental cut is made through the flesh it must be sewed up, as it would
permit the stuffing to escape. For the stuffing, the following is extra nice:
Peel 4 apples and core them, chop fine with 2 large onions, 4 leaves of
sage, and 4 leaves of lemon thyme. Boil some white potatoes, mash them
and add 1 pint to the chopped ingredients with a teaspoon of salt and a little
cayenne. Stuff the shoulder with this and sew up all the openings. Dredge
with flour, salt and pepper and roast in a hot oven, allowing twenty minutes
to the pound. Baste frequently, with hot water at first, and then with gravy
from the pan. Serve with currant jelly, potatoes and some green vegetables.
Another extra good stuffing for pork is made with sweet potatoes as a basis.
Boil the potatoes, peel and mash. To a half pint of potato add a quarter pint
of finely chopped celery, 2 tablespoons chopped onions, 1/2 teaspoon
pepper, teaspoon each of salt and chopped parsley and a tablespoon of
butter.

PORK ROASTED WITH TOMATOES.

Take a piece for roasting and rub well with salt and pepper, dredge with
flour, and pour into the pan a pint of hot water, and place in a brisk oven.
This must be done two or three hours before dinner, according to the size of
roast; baste the meat often. An hour before dinner peel some tomatoes
(about a quart), put them into a bowl and mash with the hands till the pulp
is in fine pieces, add to them a chopped onion, a teaspoon of chopped
CHAPTER XVII. 88

parsley and 1/2 teaspoon each of sage and thyme. Draw the pan containing
the roast to the mouth of oven and skim all the fat from the gravy; pour the
tomatoes into the pan, and bake for one hour. With this serve a big dish of
rice.

PORK WITH SWEET POTATOES.

Prepare the roast as described above, either stuffed or otherwise. When

partly done, peel and cut some sweet potatoes into slices about three inches
long. Bank these all around the meat, covering it and filling the pan. Baste
often with the gravy and bake one hour. Serve with this a Russian salad,
made of vegetables. Young carrots may be used in place of sweet potatoes.

RARE OLD FAMILY DISHES, DESCRIBED FOR THIS WORK BY

THE BEST COOKS IN AMERICA. EVERY ONE OF THESE RECIPES
IS A SPECIAL FAVORITE THAT HAS BEEN OFTEN TRIED AND
NEVER FOUND WANTING. NONE OF THESE RECIPES HAS EVER
BEFORE BEEN PRINTED, AND ALL WILL BE FOUND SIMPLE,
ECONOMICAL AND HYGIENIC.

Ham.

BOILED.

Wash well a salted, smoked pig's ham, put this in a large kettle of boiling
water and boil until tender, remove from the kettle, take off all of the rind,
stick in a quantity of whole cloves, place in a baking pan, sprinkle over
with a little sugar, pour over it a cup of cider, or, still better, sherry. Place in
the oven and bake brown.

FOR LUNCH.

Mince cold ham fine, either boiled or fried, add a couple of hard-boiled
eggs chopped fine, a tablespoon of prepared mustard, a little vinegar and a
sprinkling of salt. Put in a mold. When cold cut in thin slices or spread on
bread for sandwiches.
CHAPTER XVII. 89

BONED.

Having soaked a well-cured ham in tepid water over night, boil it until
perfectly tender, putting it on in warm water; take up, let cool, remove the
bone carefully, press the ham again into shape, return to the boiling liquor,
remove the pot from the fire and let the ham remain in it till cold. Cut
across and serve cold.

POTTED.

Mince left-over bits of boiled ham and to every 2 lbs. lean meat allow 1/2
lb. fat. Pound all in a mortar until it is a fine paste, gradually adding 1/2
teaspoon powdered mace, the same quantity of cayenne, a pinch of allspice
and nutmeg. Mix very thoroughly, press into tiny jars, filling them to within
an inch of the top; fill up with clarified butter or drippings and keep in a
cool place. This is nice for tea or to spread picnic sandwiches.

STEW.

A nice way to use the meat left on a ham bone after the frying slices are
removed is to cut it off in small pieces, put into cold water to cover and let
it come to a boil. Pour off the water and add enough hot to make sufficient
stew for your family. Slice an onion and potatoes into it.

WITH VEAL.

A delicious picnic dish is made of ham and veal. Chop fine equal quantities
of each and put into a baking dish in layers with slices of hard-boiled eggs
between; boil down the water in which the veal was cooked, with the
bones, till it will jelly when cold; flavor with celery, pepper and salt and
pour over the meat. Cover with a piecrust half an inch thick and bake until
the crust is done. Slice thin when cold.

OMELET.
CHAPTER XVII. 90

Beat 6 eggs very light, add 1/2 teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons sweet milk,
pepper to taste, have frying pan very hot with 1 tablespoon butter in; turn in
the mixture, shake constantly until cooked, then put 1 cup finely chopped
ham over the top and roll up like jelly cake, cut in slices.

BAKED.

Most persons boil ham. It is much better baked, if baked right. Soak it for
an hour in clean water and wipe dry. Next spread it all over with thin batter
and then put it into a deep dish, with sticks under it to keep it out of the
gravy. When it is fully done, take off the skin and batter crusted upon the
flesh side, and set away to cool. It should bake from six to eight hours.
After removing the skin, sprinkle over with two tablespoonfuls of sugar,
some black pepper and powdered crackers. Put in pan and return to the
oven to brown; then take up and stick cloves through the fat, and dust with
powdered cinnamon.

WITH CORN MEAL.

Take bits of cold boiled ham, cut into fine pieces, put in a frying pan with
water to cover, season well. When it boils, thicken with corn meal, stirred
in carefully, like mush. Cook a short time, pour in a dish to mold, slice off
and fry.

BALLS.

Chop 1/2 pint cold boiled ham fine. Put a gill of milk in a saucepan and set
on the fire. Stir in 1/2 teacup stale bread crumbs, the beaten yolks of 2 eggs
and the ham. Season with salt, cayenne and a little nutmeg. Stir over the
fire until hot, add a tablespoon chopped parsley, mix well and turn out to
cool. When cold make into small balls, dip in beaten egg, then in bread
crumbs and fry in boiling fat.

TOAST.
CHAPTER XVII. 91

Remove the fat from some slices of cold boiled ham, chop fine. Put 2
tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan on the stove, add the chopped ham
and half a cup of sweet cream or milk. Season with pepper and salt; when
hot, remove from the stove and stir in quickly 3 well-beaten eggs. Pour
onto toast and serve at once.

FLAVORED WITH VEGETABLES.

Take a small ham, as it will be finer grained than a large one, let soak for a
few hours in vinegar and water, put on in hot water, then add 2 heads of
celery, 2 turnips, 3 onions and a large bunch of savory herbs. A glass of
port or sherry wine will improve the flavor of the ham. Simmer very gently
until tender, take it out and remove the skin, or if to be eaten cold, let it
remain in the liquor until nearly cold.

PATTIES.

One pint of ham which has previously been cooked, mix with two parts of
bread crumbs, wet with milk. Put the batter in gem pans, break 1 egg over
each, sprinkle the top thickly with cracker crumbs and bake until brown. A
nice breakfast dish.

PATTIES WITH ONIONS.

Two cups bread crumbs moistened with a little milk, and two cups cooked
ham thoroughly mixed. If one likes the flavor, add a chopped onion. Bake
in gem pans. Either break an egg over each gem or chop cold hard-boiled
egg and sprinkle over them. Scatter a few crumbs on top. Add bits of butter
and season highly with pepper and salt, and brown carefully.

FRIED PATTIES.

One cup cold boiled ham (chopped fine), 1 cup bread crumbs, 1 egg, salt
and pepper to taste, mix to the right thickness with nice meat dressing or
sweet milk, mold in small patties and fry in butter.
CHAPTER XVII. 92

HAM SANDWICHES.

Mince your ham fine and add plenty of mustard, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoon flour,
1 tablespoon butter and as much chopped cucumber pickles as you have
ham. Beat this thoroughly together and pour into 1 pint of boiling vinegar,
but do not let the mixture boil. When it cools, spread between your
sandwiches.

Salt Pork.

FRIED WITH FLOUR.

Slice the pork thinly and evenly, placing it in a large frying pan of water,
and turning it twice while freshening. This prevents it humping in the
middle, as pork, unless the slices are perfectly flat, cannot be fried evenly.
When freshened sufficiently, drain, throw the water off, and, rolling each
slice in flour, return to the frying pan. Fry a delicate brown, place on a
platter dry, add slices of lemon here and there. Drain all the frying fat off,
leaving a brown sediment in the pan. Pour 1 cup of rich milk on this, and
when it thickens (keep stirring constantly until of the consistency of rich,
thick cream), pour into a gravy boat, and dust with pepper.--[M. G.

FRIED PORK AND GRAVY.

Cut the rind from a firm piece of fat salt pork that has a few streaks of lean
(if preferred). Slice thin, scald in hot water, have the frying pan smoking
hot, put in the slices of pork and fry (without scorching) until crisp. Then
pour off nearly all the fat, add some hot water after the slices have been
removed from the pan, and stir in some flour moistened with cold water for
a thickened gravy.--[Farmer's Wife.

FRIED IN BATTER OR WITH APPLES.

Slice thin and fry crisp in a hot frying pan, then dip in a batter made as
follows: One egg well beaten, 3 large spoons rich milk, and flour enough to
make a thin batter. Fry once more until the batter is a delicate brown, and if
CHAPTER XVII. 93

any batter remains it may be fried as little cakes and served with the pork.
Instead of the batter, apples, sliced, may be fried in the fat, with a little
water and sugar added, or poor man's cakes, made by scalding 4 spoons
granulated (or other) corn meal with boiling water, to which add a pinch of
salt and 1 egg, stirred briskly in.--[F. W.

SWEET FRIED.

Take nice slices of pork, as many as you need, and parboil in buttermilk for
five minutes, then fry to a golden brown. Or parboil the slices in skimmilk,
and while frying sprinkle on each slice a little white sugar and fry a nice
brown. Be watchful while frying, as it burns very easily after the sugar is
on.--[I. M. W.

TO FRY IN BATTER.

Prepare as for plain fried pork, fry without dipping in flour, and when done,
dip into a batter made as follows: One egg beaten light, 2 tablespoonfuls of
milk and the same of sifted flour, or enough to make a thin batter. Stir
smooth, salt slightly, dip the fried pork into it and put back into the hot
drippings. Brown slightly on both sides, remove to a hot platter and serve
immediately.--[R. W.

FRIED WITH SAGE.

Freshen the pork in the usual manner with water or soaking in milk, partly
fry the pork, then put three or four freshly picked sprigs of sage in the
frying pan with the pork. When done, lay the crisp fried sage leaves on
platter with the pork.--[Mrs. W. L. R.

MRS. BISBEE'S CREAMED PORK.

Slice as many slices as your frying pan will hold, pour on cold water, place
upon the range to freshen; when hot, pour off the water and fry until crispy;
take out upon a platter, pour the fat in a bowl. Pour some milk, about a pint,
in the frying pan, boil, thicken and pour upon the fried pork. Serve at
CHAPTER XVII. 94

once.--[Mrs. G. A. B.

BAKED.

Take a piece of salt pork as large as needed, score it neatly and soak in milk
and water half an hour, or longer if very salt; put into a baking pan with
water and a little flour sprinkled over the scoring. Bake until done. Always
make a dressing to eat with this, of bread and cracker crumbs, a lump of
butter, an egg, salt, pepper and sage to taste; mix with hot milk, pack in a
deep dish and bake about twenty minutes. Keep water in the baking dish
after the meat is taken up, pour off most of the fat and thicken the liquor.
Tomatoes go well with this dish, also cranberry sauce.

BOILED.

Boil 4 or 5 lbs. of pork having streaks of lean in it, in plenty of water, for
one and one-half hours. Take out, remove skin, cut gashes across the top,
sprinkle over powdered sage, pepper and rolled crackers. Brown in the
oven. Slice when cold.

CREAMED IN MILK AND WATER.

Freshen 10 or 12 slices of fat pork and fry a nice brown, then take up the
pork and arrange on a deep platter. Next pour off half the fat from the
frying pan and add 1 cup of milk and 1 of boiling water, and 1 tablespoon
flour mixed with a little cold milk or water, or else sifted in when the milk
and water begin to boil, but then a constant stirring is required to prevent it
from being lumpy. Next add a pinch of salt and a dust of pepper, let it boil
up, and pour over the pork. Enough for six.

EGG PORK.

Take slices of pork and parboil in water, sprinkle a little pepper on the pork
and put into the frying pan with a small piece of butter and fry. Take 1 egg
and a little milk and beat together. When the meat is nearly done, take each
slice and dip into the egg, lay back in the pan and cook until done.
CHAPTER XVII. 95

CREAMED PORK.

Take 6 slices nice pork, or as many as will fry in the frying pan, and parboil
for five minutes, then take out of the water and roll one side of each slice in
flour and fry to a golden brown. When fried, turn nearly all of the fat off
and set the pan on the stove again and turn on a cup of nice sweet cream; let
it boil up, then serve on a platter.

Soups, Stews, Etc.

PORK SOUP.

Put pork bones in pot of cold salted water. Add the following ingredients,
in a cheesecloth bag: A few pepper seeds, a bit of horse-radish, mace, and 1
sliced turnip. Boil as for beef soup; strain and add a teaspoon of rice flour
to each pint, and let come to a boil. Serve with crackers.

PORK STEW

Slice and fry in a kettle from 1/4 to 1/2 lb. salt pork, drain off the fat and
save for shortening, add 3 pints boiling water, 2 or 3 onions sliced thin, 1
quart potatoes sliced and pared, a sprinkling of pepper, large spoon flour
mixed in 1 cup of cold water. Let the onions boil a few moments before
adding the potatoes and flour. Five minutes before serving, add 1 dozen
crackers, split and moistened with hot water, or make dumplings as for any
stew.

DRY STEW.

Place slices of pork in the frying pan and fill full with chipped potatoes;
pour over a little water and cover tightly, and cook until the pork begins to
fry, then loosen from the bottom with a wide knife and pour over more
water, and so on until done. Pepper and salt and a bit of butter.

OLD-FASHIONED STEW.
CHAPTER XVII. 96

Place 6 large slices of pork in the kettle with nearly a quart of water, let it
boil half an hour, then add 8 sliced potatoes and 2 sliced onions, and when
nearly done add a little flour, pepper and salt, and a lump of butter.

CHOWDER.

Cut 4 slices of salt pork in dice, place in kettle and fry, add 6 good-sized
onions chopped fine, let fry while preparing 8 potatoes, then add 1 quart
boiling water and the potatoes sliced thin. Season with salt and pepper to
taste. Boil one-half hour.

Miscellaneous.

BACON, BROILED OR FRIED.

The first essential is to have the bacon with a streak of lean and a streak of
fat, and to cut or slice it as thin as possible. Then lay it in a shallow tin and
set it inside a hot stove. It will toast evenly and the slices will curl up and
be so dry that they may be taken in the fingers to eat. The lard that exudes
may be thickened with flour, a cup of sweet new milk and a pinch of black
pepper added, and nice gravy made. Or if preferred, the bacon, thinly
sliced, may be fried on a hot skillet, just turning it twice, letting it slightly
brown on both sides. Too long in the hot skillet, the bacon gets hard and
will have a burned taste.

BRAINS.

Lay the brains in salt and water for an hour to draw out the blood. Pick
them over and take out any bits of bone and membrane. Cook for half an
hour in a small quantity of water. When cooked drain off the water, and to
each brain add a little pepper, nearly an even teaspoon of salt, a tablespoon
of butter and 1 beaten egg. Cook until the egg thickens. Or when the brains
are cooked, drain off the water, season with salt, pepper and sage.

PORK AND BEANS.

CHAPTER XVII. 97

Pick over and let soak over night 1 quart beans; in the morning wash and
drain, and place in a kettle with cold water, with 1/2 teaspoon soda, boil
about twenty minutes, then drain and put in earthen bean dish with 2
tablespoons molasses, season with pepper. In the center of the beans put 1
lb. well-washed salt pork, with the rind scored in slices or squares, rind side
uppermost. Cover all with hot water and bake six hours or longer, in a
moderate oven. Keep covered so they will not burn on the top, but an hour
or so before serving remove the pork to another dish and allow it to brown.
Beans should also brown over the top.

BOILED DINNER.

Put a piece of salt pork to cook in cold water about 9 o'clock. At 10 o'clock
add a few beets, at 11 o'clock a head of cabbage, quartered. One-half hour
later add the potatoes. Serve very hot.

GERMAN WICK-A-WACK.

Save the rinds of salt pork, boil until tender, then chop very fine, add an
equal amount of dried bread dipped in hot water and chopped. Season with
salt, pepper and summer savory; mix, spread one inch deep in baking dish,
cover with sweet milk. Bake one-half hour. Very nice.

BROILED PORK.

Soak the pork in cold water over night. Wipe dry and broil over coals until
crisp. Pour over it 1/2 pint sweet cream. Ham cooked this way is delicious.

LUNCH LOAF.

Chop remnants of cold boiled ham or salt pork, add crushed crackers and
from 3 to 6 eggs, according to the amount of your meat. Bake in a round
baking powder box, and when cold it can be sliced for the table.

PORK HASH.
CHAPTER XVII. 98

Take scraps of cold pork and ham, chop very fine, put in frying pan, add a
very little water, let cook a few minutes, then add twice this amount of
chopped potato. Salt and pepper to taste, fry and serve hot.

FOR SUNDAY LUNCHEON.

Take the trimmings saved from ribs, backbone, jowl, shanks of ham and
shoulder, and all the nice bits of meat too small for ordinary use; place in a
kettle with sufficient water to barely cover meat, and boil slowly until quite
tender. Fit a piece of stout cheesecloth in a flat-bottomed dish and cover
with alternate strips of fat and lean meat while hot; sprinkle sparingly with
white pepper, add another layer of meat and a few very thin slices of
perfectly sound tart apples. Repeat until pork is used, then sew up the ends
of the cloth compactly, place between agate platters and subject to
considerable pressure over night. Served cold this makes a very appetizing
addition to Sunday suppers or luncheon.

PORK CHEESE.

Cut 2 lbs. cold roast pork into small pieces, allowing 1/4 lb. fat to each
pound of lean; salt and pepper to taste. Pound in a mortar a dessert spoon
minced parsley, 4 leaves of sage, a very small bunch of savory herbs, 2
blades of mace, a little nutmeg, half a teaspoon of minced lemon peel. Mix
thoroughly with the meat, put into a mold and pour over it enough
well-flavored strong stock to make it very moist. Bake an hour and a half
and let it cool in the mold. Serve cold, cut in thin slices and garnished with
parsley or cress. This is a cooking school recipe. For ordinary use the
powdered spices, which may be obtained at almost any country store,
answer every purpose. Use 1/4 teaspoon sage, 1/2 teaspoon each of summer
savory and thyme, and a pinch of mace.

PORK FLOUR-GRAVY.

Take the frying pan after pork has been fried in it, put in a piece of butter
half as large as an egg, let it get very hot, then put in a spoonful of flour
sprinkled over the bottom of the pan. Let this get thoroughly browned, then
CHAPTER XVII. 99

turn boiling water on it, say about a pint. Now take a tablespoon of flour,
heaping, wet it up with a cup of sweet milk and stir into the boiling water,
add salt and pepper to taste, and a small piece more butter, cook well and
serve.

PORK OMELET.

Cut the slices of pork quite thin, discarding the rind, fry on both sides to a
light brown, remove from the spider, have ready a batter made of from 2 or
3 eggs (as the amount of pork may require), beaten up with a little flour and
a little sweet milk, pouring half of this batter into the spider. Then lay in the
pork again, and pour the remaining part of the batter over the pork. When
cooked on the one side, cut in squares and turn. Serve hot. Sometimes the
pork is cut in small squares before adding the batter.

ANOTHER OMELET.

Put 1 cup cold fried salt pork (cut in dice) and 3 tablespoons sweet milk on
back of stove to simmer, then beat 6 eggs and 1 teaspoon salt until just
blended. Put 2 tablespoons butter in frying pan. When hot add eggs and
shake vigorously until set, then add the hot creamed pork, spread over top,
fold, and serve immediately.

PIG'S FEET.

Cut off the feet at the first joint, then cut the legs into as many pieces as
there are joints, wash and scrape them well and put to soak over night in
cold, slightly salted water; in the morning scrape again and change the
water; repeat at night. The next morning put them on to boil in cold water
to cover, skim carefully, boil till very tender, and serve either hot or cold,
with a brown sauce made of part of the water in which they were boiled,
and flavored with tomato or chopped cucumber pickles. If the pig's feet are
cooled and then browned in the oven, they will be much nicer than if served
directly from the kettle in which they were boiled. Save all the liquor not
used for the sauce, for pig's feet are very rich in jelly; when cold, remove
the fat, which should be clarified, and boil the liquor down to a glaze; this
CHAPTER XVII. 100

may be potted, when it will keep a long time and is useful for glazing, or it
may be used for soups either before or after boiling, down.--[R. W.

PICKLED PIG'S FEET.

Clean them well, boil until very tender, remove all the bones. Chop the
meat, add it to the water they were boiled in, salt to taste. Add enough
vinegar to give a pleasing acid taste, pour into a dish to cool. When firm,
cut in slices. Or leave out the vinegar and serve catsup of any kind with the
meat. Or before cooking the feet, wrap each one in cloth and boil seven
hours. When cold take off the cloth and cut each foot in two pieces. Serve
cold with catsup or pepper sauce or horse-radish. Or the feet may be put
into a jar and covered with cold vinegar, to which is added a handful of
whole cloves.--[A. L. N.

KIDNEY ON TOAST.

Cut a kidney in large pieces and soak in cold water an hour. Drain and chop
fine, removing all string and fiber; also chop separately one onion. Put a
tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan, and when melted add the chopped
kidney and stir till the mixture turns a whitish color, then add the onion.
Cook five minutes, turn into a small stewpan, season and add a cupful of
boiling water. Simmer an hour and thicken with a teaspoonful of cornstarch
wet with cold water. Cook five minutes longer, pour over slices of nicely
browned toast and serve.

Pork Fritters.

CORN MEAL FRITTERS.

Make a thick batter of corn meal and flour, cut a few slices of pork and fry
until the fat is fried out; cut a few more slices, dip them in the batter, and
drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with salt and pepper; cook until
light brown, and eat while hot.

FRITTERS WITH EGG.

CHAPTER XVII. 101

Fry slices of freshened fat pork, browning both sides, then make a batter of
1 egg, 1 cup milk, 1 teaspoon baking powder sifted through enough flour to
make a rather stiff batter, and a pinch of salt. Now remove the pork from
the frying pan and drop in large spoonfuls of the batter, and in the center of
each place a piece of the fried pork, then cover the pork with batter, and
when nicely brown, turn and let the other side brown. Currant jelly is nice
with them.

FRICATELLE.

Chop raw fresh pork very fine, add a little salt and plenty of pepper, 2 small
onions chopped fine, half as much bread as there is meat, soaked until soft,
2 eggs. Mix well together, make into oblong patties and fry like oysters.
These are nice for breakfast. If used for supper, serve with sliced lemon.

CROQUETTES.

Raw pork chopped fine, 2 cups, 1 small onion chopped very fine, 1
teaspoon powdered sage, 1 cup bread crumbs rubbed fine, salt and pepper
to taste, 2 eggs beaten light. Mix thoroughly, make small flat cakes, roll
lightly in flour and fry in hot lard.

Pork Pies, Cakes and Puddings.

PORK PIE.

Cut fresh pork in small inch and half-inch pieces, allowing both fat and
lean. Boil until done in slightly salted water. Lay away in an earthen dish
over night. In the morning it will be found to be surrounded with a firm
meat jelly. Will not soak pie crust. Make a rich baking powder biscuit
paste. Roll out thin, make top and bottom crust, fill with the prepared pork.
Bake.--[H. M. G.

A HINT FOR PORK PIE.

CHAPTER XVII. 102

Every housekeeper knows how to make pork pie, but not every one knows
that if the bottom crust is first baked with a handful of rice to prevent
bubbling--the rice may be used many times for the same purpose--and the
pork partially cooked before the upper crust is added, the pie will be twice
as palatable as if baked in the old way. The crust will not be soggy and the
meat juices will not lose flavor by evaporation.--[Mrs. O. P.

PORK PIE WITH APPLES.

Line a deep pudding dish with pie crust. Place a layer of tart apples in the
dish, sprinkle with sugar and a little nutmeg, then place a layer of thin
slices of fat salt pork (not cooked), sprinkle lightly with black pepper.
Continue to add apples and pork until the dish is full. Cover with a crust
and bake until the apples are cooked, when the pork should be melted.
Serve as any pie.--[M. C.

SPARERIB PIE.

Chop the small mussy pieces of meat, put in a pudding or bread tin, add
some of the gravy and a little water. Make a biscuit crust, roll half an inch
thick and put over the top and bake. A tasty way is to cut the crust into
biscuits, place close together on top of the meat and bake. More dainty to
serve than the single crust. A cream gravy or some left from the rib is nice
with this pie. Any of the lean meat makes a nice pie, made the same as the
above.

PORK CAKE WITHOUT LARD.

Over 1 lb. fat salt pork, chopped very fine, pour a pint of boiling water.
While it is cooling, sift 9 cups flour with 1 heaping teaspoon soda and 2 of
cream tartar, stir in 2 cups sugar and 1 of molasses, 4 eggs, teaspoon of all
kinds spice, 2 lbs. raisins, 1 lb. currants and 1/2 lb. citron. Lastly,
thoroughly beat in the pork and water and bake slowly. This will keep a
long time.

PORK CAKE.
CHAPTER XVII. 103

Take 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 cup strong coffee, 1/2 cup molasses, 1/2 cup
chopped salt pork, 1/4 cup lard, 1 cup raisins, stoned and chopped, 2 cups
flour, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon soda, dissolved in coffee, 1 teaspoon cloves,
cinnamon and nutmeg.

PORK PUDDING.

This is made somewhat after the style of the famous English beefsteak
pudding--differs only in two points. Cut up the pieces of fresh pork and
stew in the skillet, in slightly salted water, till soft. Make a rich biscuit
dough or plain pie paste. Line a quart basin and fill with the stewed pork.
Add pepper, a few chopped potatoes if desired, cover all with the paste
pinched tightly over, tie a small cloth tightly over the basin, then place
basin in a larger cloth, gather the corners together and tie snugly over top,
boil in a kettle for half an hour. Be sure the water is boiling hot before
placing the basin in, and keep it boiling, with a tight lid.

Roasts.

FRESH LEG.

Score the leg with sharp knife in half-inch gashes, fill with a filling made of
chopped onion, sage, bread crumbs and mixed with the beaten yolks and
whites of 2 eggs, salt; stuff knuckle and gashes also. Pepper freely and roast
it well. A leg weighing 8 lbs. requires three hours of a steady fire. Drain off
fat from roasting tin and make a brown gravy. Serve with tart apple sauce.

WITH BUTTERMILK.

Take a piece of pork that is quite lean, soak over night in buttermilk and
boil until about half done, then put it in the baking pan, cut through the rind
in slices, sprinkle with pepper and sugar and bake to a golden brown.

DANISH PORK ROAST.

CHAPTER XVII. 104

Braise the roast, and between each slit insert a bit of sage--which may be
removed before serving; place in a deep stewpan and fill the corners and
crevices with prunes that have been previously soaked in water long
enough to regain their natural size. Roast in moderate oven, basting as
usual, taking care not to break the prunes. When half done, take up the
prunes, remove pits, crush and add to a dressing made as follows: Moisten
2 cups bread crumbs--one-third corn bread is preferable to all
wheat--season with salt, pepper and a mere hint of onions. Put into a
cheesecloth bag--saltbag if at hand--and bake beside the roast for half an
hour, taking care to prevent scorching. Serve in slices with the roast.

SPARERIB.

Season well with salt, pepper and a little sage. Put in roasting pan with a
little water, bake a nice brown. By cracking the ribs twice, you can roll up
and fasten with skewers, or tie up with coarse twine. Put the stuffing inside,
same as turkey. After it is done, take meat from pan. If the water is not all
cooked out, set on top of stove until none remains. Pour out the grease,
leaving about half a cup. Set back to cool so as not to cook the gravy too
fast at first. Stir 2 spoons or more of flour into the grease and let brown.
Add boiling water to make the required amount of gravy. Before removing
from fire, add 1/2 cup sweet cream. Baked or mashed potatoes with cold
slaw are in order with sparerib, with currant, cranberry or apple sauce. Very
nice cold with fried potatoes or chips for supper.

Liver.

WITH BACON.

Pour salted boiling water over the liver and let it stand a few minutes, drain
and slice. Crisp thin slices of bacon in a hot frying pan, lay them neatly
around the edge of a platter or deep dish, and set the dish where it will keep
hot. Fry the liver in the drippings from the bacon and put it in the middle of
the dish. Pour a little boiling water into the frying pan, season to taste with
pepper and salt, thicken with browned flour and pour over the liver or serve
separately.--[R. F.
CHAPTER XVII. 105

LIVER AND ONIONS.

Use two frying pans. In both have a generous supply of fryings or salted
lard. Cut the liver in thin, even slices, and wash in cold water. Wipe each
slice dry before placing it in the hot grease; fill the frying pan full, pepper
and salt all, cover with lid and set over a brisk fire. Slice the onions and
place them in the second frying pan of hot grease, pepper, salt and stir
frequently. Turn the liver once, each slice. When done, place on a platter,
with the onions heaped over and around.--[H. M. G.

HASHED.

Parboil the liver, chop it fine and put it into a hot frying pan with just
enough of the liquor it was boiled in to moisten it so it won't be hard and
dry. When hot, season with salt, pepper and butter, and serve with mashed
potato. Or you can chop cold boiled potatoes with the liver and make a
regular hash of it if preferred.--[R. L.

Heart.

STUFFED.

Take three hearts, remove the ventricles and dividing wall, wash and wipe
out dry. Fill with 3 tablespoons chopped ham, 4 tablespoons bread crumbs,
a little melted butter, some pepper and salt; beat up an egg and mix the
meat, etc., with as much of the egg as is needed to bind it together. Tie each
heart in a piece of cloth and boil three hours, or till tender, in salt and water.
Remove the cloths carefully, so as to keep the dressing in place, rub them
over with butter and sprinkle with a little flour, and brown in a brisk oven.
Reduce the liquor and thicken it. Serve with mashed potatoes and apple
jelly.

BOILED.

Make a biscuit dough rather stiff, sprinkle a well-cleaned heart over with a
little pepper and salt, roll the heart securely in the biscuit dough, wrap all in
CHAPTER XVII. 106

a clean white cloth and sew or baste together loosely, then put in a kettle of
hot water and boil about four hours. Serve hot by removing cloth and
slicing.

Sausage.

SAUSAGE WITH DRIED BEEF.

To 10 lbs. meat allow 5 tablespoons salt, 4 of black pepper, 3 of sage, and

1/2 tablespoon cayenne. Some persons prefer to add a little ginger, thinking
that it keeps the sausage from rising on the stomach. Mix the spices
thoroughly through the meat, which may be put into skins or muslin bags
and hung in a cold, dry place, or partly cooked and packed in jars with a
covering of lard. Every housekeeper uses fried and baked sausages, but
sausage and dried beef is a more uncommon dish. Cut the sausage into
small pieces, put it into a stewpan with water to cover, and put on to cook.
Slice the dried beef and tear it into small pieces, removing fat and gristle,
and put into the stew pan. When done, thicken slightly with flour, season
and stir an egg quickly into it. Don't get the gravy too thick and don't beat
the egg--it wants to show in little flakes of white and yellow.--[Rosalie
Williams.

SAUSAGE ROLLS.

Make a rich pie paste, roll out thin and cut, with a large cooky cutter or a
canister lid, large discs of the paste. Take a small cooked sausage, and
placing it on the edge of the circle of paste, roll it up and pinch the ends
together. Bake in a quick oven and serve hot or cold.

WITH CABBAGE.

Put some pieces of fat and lean pork through the sausage mill; add a finely
chopped onion, pepper, salt and a dash of mace. Cut a large, sound head of
cabbage in two, scoop out the heart of both halves and fill with sausage
meat; tie up the head securely with stout twine, put into salted water
sufficient to cover the cabbage, and boil one hour and a half. Drain
CHAPTER XVII. 107

thoroughly and save the liquid, which should not exceed one cupful in all.
Brown a tablespoonful of butter over a hot fire, stir in a teaspoon of
browned flour and add the liquid; pour over cabbage and serve hot.

GOOD SAUSAGE.

This sausage recipe has been proved good. Take 30 lbs. pork and 12 oz.
salt, 2 oz. pepper, 2 oz. sage. Put sage in a pan and dry in oven, then sift.
You can add two ounces of ground mustard if you wish. Add 2 or 3 lbs.
sugar, mix all together, salt, pepper, etc., and mix with meat before it is
chopped. After it is well mixed, cut to your liking.

Fresh Pork.

CUTLETS.

Cut them from a loin of pork, bone and trim neatly and cut away most of
the fat. Broil fifteen minutes on a hot gridiron, turning them three or four
times, until they are thoroughly done but not dry. Dish, season with pepper
and salt and serve with tomato sauce or with small pickled cucumbers as a
garnish.

BREADED CUTLETS.

A more elaborate dish is made by dipping the cutlets into beaten egg
seasoned to taste with salt, pepper and sage, then into rolled cracker or
bread crumbs. Fry slowly till thoroughly done, and serve with mashed
potatoes.

CUTLETS FROM COLD ROAST PORK.

Melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan, lay in the cutlets and an onion

chopped fine, and fry a light brown; then add a dessertspoon of flour, half a
pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, and a teaspoon each of vinegar and
made mustard. Simmer gently a few minutes and serve.
CHAPTER XVII. 108

PORK CHOPS.

The white meat along the backbone (between the ribs and ham) is not
always sufficiently appreciated, and is often peeled from the fat, cut from
the bones and put into sausage, which should never be done, as it is the
choicest piece in the hog to fry. Leave fat and lean together, saw through
the bone, fry or broil. The meat gravy should be served in a gravy boat.

BREADED PORK CHOPS.

Cut chops about an inch thick, beat them flat with a rolling pin, put them in
a pan, pour boiling water over them, and set them over the fire for five
minutes; then take them up and wipe them dry. Mix a tablespoon of salt and
a teaspoon of pepper for each pound of meat; rub each chop over with this,
then dip, first into beaten egg, then into crackers, rolled, as much as they
will take up. Fry in hot lard.

BARBECUED PORK.

Put a loin of pork in a hot oven without water, sprinkle with flour, pepper
and salt, baste with butter, cook two or three hours, or until very brown.
Pour in the gravy half a teacup of walnut catsup. Serve with fried apples.

Roast Pig.

SUCKING PIG.

Scald carefully and scrape clean, wipe dry, chop off the toes above first
joint, remove entrails, and although some cook head entire, it is not
advisable. Remove brains, eyes, upper and lower jaws, leaving skin
semblance of head, with ears thoroughly scraped and cleaned. Make a
dressing composed of one large boiled onion chopped, powdered sage, salt,
pepper, 4 cups stale bread crumbs, a bit of butter, and all mixed with
well-beaten eggs. Stuff the body part with this. Stitch it up. Previously boil
the heart in salted water and stuff this into the boneless head skin to
preserve its shape and semblance. Place it down on its feet, head resting on
CHAPTER XVII. 109

front feet, hind legs drawn out, just as you want it to lie on the platter when
served or sent to table. Roast three hours, constantly basting.

TO ROAST WHOLE.

A pig ought not to be under four nor over six weeks old, and ought to be
plump and fat. In the city, the butcher will sell you a shoat already
prepared, but in the country, we must prepare our own pig for roasting. As
soon as the pig is killed, throw it into a tub of cold water to make it tender;
as soon as it is perfectly, cold, take it by the hind leg and plunge into
scalding water, and shake it about until the hair can all be removed, by the
handful at a time. When the hair has all been removed, rub from the tail up
to the end of the nose with a coarse cloth. Take off the hoofs and wash out
the inside of the ears and nose until perfectly clean. Hang the pig up, by the
hind legs, stretched open so as to take out the entrails; wash well with water
with some bicarbonate of soda dissolved in it; rinse again and again and let
it hang an hour or more to drip. Wrap it in a coarse, dry cloth, when taken
down, and lay in a cold cellar, or on ice, as it is better not to cook the pig
the same day it is killed. Say kill and clean it late in the evening and roast it
the next morning. Prepare the stuffing of the liver, heart and haslets,
stewed, seasoned and chopped fine. Mix with these an equal quantity of
boiled Irish potatoes, mashed, or bread crumbs, and season with
hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, parsley and sage, or thyme, chopped fine,
pepper and salt. Scald the pig on the inside, dry it and rub with pepper and
salt, fill with the stuffing and sew up. Bend the forelegs under the body, the
hind legs forward, and skewer to keep in position. Place in a large baking
pan and pour over it one quart of boiling water. Rub fresh butter all over
the pig and sprinkle pepper and salt over it, and put a bunch of parsley and
thyme, or sage, in the water. Turn a pan down over it and let it simmer in a
hot oven till perfectly tender. Then take off the pan that covers the pig, rub
it with more butter and let brown, basting it frequently with the hot gravy.
If the hot water and gravy cook down too much, add more hot water and
baste. When of a fine brown, and tender and done all through, cover the
edges of a large, flat china dish with fresh green parsley and place the pig,
kneeling, in the center of the dish. Place in its mouth a red apple, or an ear
of green corn, and serve hot with the gravy; or serve cold with grated
CHAPTER XVII. 110

horse-radish and pickle. Roast pig ought to be evenly cooked, through and
through, as underdone pork of any kind, size or age is exceedingly
unwholesome. It ought also to be evenly and nicely browned on the
outside, as the tender skin when cooked is crisp and palatable. It is easily
scorched, therefore keep a pig, while roasting, covered till tender and
almost done.

Tongue.

The tongues should be put into the pickle with the hams; boil after three or
four weeks, pickle in vinegar which has been sweetened. Add a tablespoon
ground mustard to a pint of vinegar. Will keep months. They should be
pickled whole. Also nice when first cooked without pickling. Slice cold, to
be eaten with or without mayonnaise dressing. Sliced thin, and placed
between thin slices of bread, make delicious sandwiches. Chopped fine,
with hard-boiled eggs and mayonnaise, make nice sandwiches. Many boil
pork and beef tongues fresh. An old brown tongue is an abomination. The
saltpeter gives the pink look canned tongues have; the salt and sugar flavor
nicely.

When fresh, tongues are nice for mince pies. They may be corned with the
hams and boiled and skinned and hot vinegar seasoned with salt and pepper
poured over them; or are nice sliced with cold potatoes, garnished with
cress or lettuce and a cream salad dressing poured over them. Cream salad
dressing: Stir thoroughly together 1 teaspoon sugar, six tablespoons thick
sweet cream and 2 tablespoons vinegar, salt and pepper or mustard to taste.
The cream and vinegar should be very cold, and the vinegar added to the
cream a little at a time, or it will curdle. Stir till smooth and creamy.

Souse.

Take off the horny parts of feet by dipping in hot water and pressing
against them with a knife. Singe off hair, let soak in cold water for 24
hours, then pour on boiling water, scrape thoroughly, let stand in salt and
water a few hours; before boiling wrap each foot in a clean white bandage,
cord securely to keep skin from bursting, which causes the gelatine to
CHAPTER XVII. 111

escape in the water. Boil four hours. Leave in bandage until cold. If you
wish to pickle them, put in a jar, add some of the boiling liquor, add enough
vinegar to make a pleasant sour, add a few whole peppers. Very nice cold.
If you want it hot, put some of the pickle and feet in frying pan. When
boiling, thicken with flour and serve hot.--[Nina Gorton.

See that the feet are perfectly clean, the toes chopped off and every particle
cleanly scraped, washed and wiped. Boil for three hours continually, or
until every particle falls apart, drain from liquid, pick out all the bones,
chop slightly, return to the liquid, add 1/2 cup vinegar, 2 tablespoons sugar,
pepper, salt and a dash of nutmeg. (Do not have too much liquid.) Boil up
once more and turn all out into a mold, press lightly, and cut cold.--[H. M.
Gee.

Thoroughly clean the pig's feet and knock off the horny part with a hatchet.
Pour boiling water over them twice and pour it off, then put them on to
cook in plenty of water. Do not salt the water. Boil until very tender, then
take out the feet, pack in a jar, sprinkle each layer with salt, whole pepper
and whole cloves, and cover with equal portions of vinegar and the broth in
which the feet were boiled. Put a plate over the top with a weight to keep
the souse under the vinegar. If there remains any portion of the broth, strain
it and let stand until cold, remove the fat and clarify the broth with a beaten
white of egg. It will be then ready for blancmange or lemon jelly and is
very delicate.

Scrapple.

Take hog's tongue, heart, liver, all bones and refuse trimmings (some use
ears, snout and lights, I do not), soak all bloody pieces and wash them
carefully, use also all clean skins, trimmed from lard. Put into a kettle and
cover with water, boil until tender and bones drop loose, then cut in sausage
cutter while hot, strain liquor in which it was boiled, and thicken with good
corn mush meal, boil it well, stirring carefully to prevent scorching. This
mush must be well cooked and quite stiff, so that a stick will stand in it.
When no raw taste is left, stir in the chopped meat and season to taste with
salt, pepper and herb, sage or sweet marjoram, or anything preferred. When
CHAPTER XVII. 112

the meat is thoroughly mixed all through the mush, and seasoning is
satisfactory, dip out into pans of convenient size, to cool. Better lift off fire
and stir carefully lest it scorch. When cold, serve in slices like cheese, or
fry like mush (crisp both sides) for breakfast, serving it with nice tomato
catsup. It tastes very much like fried oysters. Some prefer half buckwheat
meal and half corn. To keep it, do not let it freeze, and if not covered with
grease melt some lard and pour over, or it will mold. This ought to be sweet
and good for a month or more in winter, but will crumble and fry soft if it
freezes.--[Mrs. R. E. Griffith.

Head Cheese.

Have the head split down the face, remove the skin, ears, eyes and brains,
and cut off the snout; wash thoroughly and soak all day in cold salted
water; change the water and soak over night, then put on to cook in cold
water to cover. Skim carefully and when done so the bones will slip out,
remove to a hot pan, take out every bone and bit of gristle, and chop the
meat with a sharp knife as quickly as possible, to keep the fat from settling
in it. For 6 lbs. meat allow 2 tablespoons salt, 1 teaspoon black pepper, a
little cayenne, 1/4 teaspoon clove and 2 tablespoons sage. Stir the meat and
seasoning well together and put into a perforated mold or tie in a coarse
cloth, put a heavy weight on it and let it stand till cold and firm. The broth
in which the meat was cooked may be used for pea soup, and the fat, if
clarified, may be used for lard.--[R. W.

Cut the head up in suitable pieces to fit the receptacle you wish to boil it in,
first cutting off all pieces that are not to be used. If too fat, cut off that, too,
and put with the lard to be rendered. Take out the brains and lay them in a
dish of cold water, then put the head on to boil till tender. Be sure to skim
well. When it begins to boil, cook till the meat is ready to drop off the
bones, then take up, remove all bones or gristle and grind or chop, not too
fine; put in salt, pepper and cloves to taste, also sage if liked, mix all well
together, heat it all together, and pour in a cloth, which is laid in a crock, tie
it up tight and put on a weight, to press it. Next day remove the cloth and
the head cheese is ready for the table. Skim the fat off the liquor the head
was boiled in and set aside for future use. Heat the liquor to a boil and stir
CHAPTER XVII. 113

in nicely sifted corn meal. After salting, take up in crock and let it get cold,
then cut off in slices and fry a nice brown. Nice for breakfast.--[Mrs. A.
Joseph.

Pig's Head.

English Brawn: Cut off the hearty cheek or jowl, and try it out for
shortening. Saw the pig's head up in small pieces, carefully removing the
brains, snoot, eyes, jawbones or portions of teeth sockets. (It is surprising
with saw and a keen, sharp-pointed knife how much of the unpleasant
pieces of a pig's head can be removed before it is consigned to the salt
bath.) Soak all night in salt and water, drain in the morning and set over the
fire to boil in slightly salted water. Place the tongue in whole also. When
the flesh leaves the bone, take out and strip all into a wooden chopping
bowl, reserving the tongue whole. Skin the tongue while warm. Chop the
head pieces fine, add pepper, salt, powdered sage to suit taste. Pack all in a
deep, narrow mold and press the tongue whole into the middle of the mass.
Weight down and set away all night to cool. Keep this always in a cold
place until all is used, and, as usual, use a sharp knife to slice.--[Aunt Ban.

To Keep Hams and Shoulders.

We pack them for a few days with a sprinkle of dry salt, then lift and wipe
dry (both barrel and meat), repack and cover with brine, which may be
prepared thus: To 16 gals. brine (enough to carry an egg) placed in a kettle
to boil add 1/4 lb. saltpeter, 3 pts. syrup molasses and a large shovel of
hickory ashes tied in a clean saltbag or cloth; boil, skim and cool.--[Mrs. R.
E. Griffith.

To prepare smoked ham for summer use: Slice the ham and cut off the rind.
Fill a spider nearly full, putting the fat pieces on top. Place in the oven and
bake. When partly cooked, pack the slices of hot ham closely in a stone jar
and pour the meat juice and fat over the top. Every time that any of the
meat is taken out, a little of the lard should be heated and poured back into
the jar to keep the meat fresh and good. Be very careful each time to
completely cover the meat with lard.--[Marion Chandler.
CHAPTER XVII. 114

INDEX

Albuminoids, 5

Animal heat, 18

Average weights of hogs, 66

Backbone, average weight of, 67

Bacon and hams, 59 and sides, dry salting, 48 box for storing, 62 bug,
season for, 62 dampness detrimental, 61 distribution of salt, 49 exports, 76
hogs, prices of, 77 pig, 16 preservatives, 48 quality wanted, 6 second
salting, 48 weight of hogs, 48 Wiltshire cut, 72 world's supply, 74

Black pepper for skippers, 51

Bleeding the hog, 9

Blood puddings, preparation of, 36

Boiler for scalding, 10

Box for salting meats, 42

Brain sausages, 30

Brawn, 35

Breeding, 9

Brine, purifying, 42

Bristles, 14
CHAPTER XVII. 115

Butchering on joint account, 2

Butcher knife in slaughtering, 9

Carcass, raising a, 21

Care of hams and shoulders, 44

Cauldrons, 11

Census of hogs, 2 of live stock, 2

Chine, 23

Chute for handling hogs, 68

Control of smoke house, 52

Cooling the carcass, 19

Co-operative curing houses, 76

Corn a fat producer, 5

Corn cobs for smoking, 52

Country dressed hogs, 64

Cracknels, 34

Crate for moving swine, 79

Crushed crackers in sausage, 32

Curing houses, co-operative, 76

CHAPTER XVII. 116

Cutting up a hog, 23

Dermestes, 51

Devices for scalding, 14

Division of work, 18

Dressing and cutting, 18 bench, 10 hints on, 22 the carcass, 18

Dry salt for bacon, 49

Entrails, 22

Exclusion of insects, 61

Exports of pork product, 76 value of, 76

Farm price of hogs, 2

Fat forming foods, 5 producers, 5

Feeding chart, 5 for flesh, 5

Fence for orchard tree, 47

Flesh forming foods, 5

Fires in smoke house, 52

Fire proof smoke house, 54

Foods for flesh and fat, 5

Frozen meat, 18
CHAPTER XVII. 117

Fuel for smoke houses, 52

Gallows for dressed hogs, 22

Gambrels, 22

Gate, device for opening, 68

Gates for handling hogs, 67

Griskins, 26

Hair, removal of, 14

Hams, a general cure, 44 American cut, 71 and shoulders, 44 in close

boxes, 61 in cloth sacks, 61 in pickling vat, 46 in shelled oats or bran, 61
pickling with molasses, 44 picnic, 71 shaping, 24 Westphalian, 45

Handy salting box, 43

Hanging carcasses, 18

Head, average weight of, 67 cheese, 35 for sausage, 27

Heavy hogs, handling, 14

Hints on dressing, 22

Hog feeding convenience, 7 packing for a series of years, 77 prices at

Chicago, 77 product, exports, 76 product, foreign outlet, 74 product, our
best customer, 74 farm price, 2 movement at leading points, 78 Normandy,
6 on the farm, 2 receipts at Chicago, 76

Hoister for carcass, 20

Ideal meat house, 59

CHAPTER XVII. 118

Insects, avoidance of, 60

Intestines, 22

Jawbone, 25

Jowls and head, preparation of, 34

Kettle for heating water, 10

Knife, use of, 19, 22

Lard, an important point in, 39 boiling, safeguards, 39 cheaper grades, 37

cooking, 38 fine points in making, 37 from back fat, 37 in hot weather, 40
kettle or steam rendered, 37 leaf, 37, 39 neutral, 37, 73 standard, 72
stearine, 73 storing, 40 time of cooking, 38 to refine, 37 water in, 37

Leading cuts of meat, 69

Light packing hogs, 16

Lights, use of, 27

Liver sausage, 30

Meat house, 59 care of, 60 earthen floor, 60

Meat packed for home use, 43

Meats, box for salting, 42

Mess pork, 70

Methods now in use, 1

Middlings, 24
CHAPTER XVII. 119

Molasses in curing pork, 45

Neat meat, 23

Net to gross, 67

Neutral lard, 73

Normandy hogs, 6

Offal, 26

Oven and smoke house combined, 52

Packing and marketing hogs, 77 at eastern cities, 77 centers, 76 house cuts

of pork, 69 western, 77

Penetration of salt, 49

Pepper in pickled pork, 41

Pickling and barreling, 41

Picnic hams, 71

Pigpen, automatic door, 7 self-closing door, 6 traveling, 3

Pigs in orchard, 47

Pork, barrel, cleaning, 41 brine, renewing, 42 for the south, 50 making, side
lights on, 64 packing in barrels, 41 packing in boxes, 42 pickled without
brine, 41 product of commerce, 70

Possibilities of profit, 2

Potatoes for swine food, 46

CHAPTER XVII. 120

Prices of hogs at Chicago, 77 of pork and lard, 67

Prime steam lard, 72

Profit in home pork making, 1

Protein diet, 5

Pyroligenous acid, 54

Rations, 5 for bacon purposes, 6

Receipts of hogs, 78

Relative weights, 67

Removing bristles, 16

Renewal of pork brine, 42

Resalting bacon, 50

Ringing hogs, 66

Roast pig, merits of, 80

Salt penetration, 49

Saltpeter in bacon, 48 in curing hams, 44

Sausage bench, 32 Black Forest, 29 Bologna, 28 brain, 30 Frankfort, 28

homemade filler, 32 in cases, 32 in jars, 27 Italian pork, 29 liver, 30
making, 26 of pork and beef, 26 packed in jars, 27 Royal Cambridge, 30
seasoning, 27, 31 smoked, 27 Spanish, 31 stuffing, 27 Suabian, 28 tomato,
31 tongue, 29 Westphalian, 28 with bread, 31 with sardines, 29 wrapped for
boiling, 29
CHAPTER XVII. 121

Sawbuck scaffold, 20

Scalding, 11 cask on sled, 14 in hogshead, 15 tub, 11 vat, 11

Scraping, 12 and washing, 14

Scrapple, Philadelphia, 35

Season for killing, 1

Seasoning sausage, 31

Shaping the ham, 24

Short bones, 34 cut in smoking, 54 ribs, 71

Shoulders, shape described, 71

Singeing pigs, 16

Singers, 16

Skippers, 51

Slaughtering, best methods, 9

Sled and cask for scalding, 14

Small hams in pickle, 45

Smoked meat, best color, 53

Smoke house, and oven combined, 52 barrel, 57 cheap substitute for, 56

fire proof, 54 floors, 59 hardwood sawdust for, 52 objectional fuel, 52
substitute, 56 with French draft, 58 with kettle track, 56
CHAPTER XVII. 122

Smoking and smoke houses, 51 best color, 53 best days for, 53 best meat
for, 51 care of fire, 52 meats in a small way, 56 preparation of meat, 51 use
of old stove, 54

Souse, preparation of, 34

Spanish sausage, 31

Spare bone, 24

Spareribs, 34

Speculative commodities, 70

Spice puddings, preparation of, 36

Standard cuts of pork, 70 lard, 72

Stearine, 73

Stretcher, 19

Substitute for smoke house, 56

Sugar cured hams, 45

Swallow, 25

Swealed hogs, 17

Sweet bacon objectionable, 48

Swill, control of, 65

Swine industry, magnitude of, 74

CHAPTER XVII. 123

Tackle for heavy hogs, 13

Temperature for scalding, 16

Tenderloin, average weight of, 67

Tin filled for sausage, 33

Trimming for bacon, 24 for lard and sausage, 24

Trough for pigs, 65 protected, 8

Vat, permanent, for scalding, 15

Weather for dressing, 18

Weight dressed out, 67

Weights of hogs, 66 of portions, relative, 67

Wheat straw for smoking, 52

Wild boar, 35

Wiltshire cut bacon, 72

Yard attachment, 3

RECIPES

Fresh Pork. barbecued pork, 113 breaded cutlets, 112 breaded pork chops,
113 corn and pork scallop, 89 cutlets, 112 cutlets from cold roast pork, 112
pork chops, 112 roasted with sweet potatoes, 90 roasted with tomatoes, 90
stuffed shoulder of pork, 89
CHAPTER XVII. 124

Ham. baked, 92 balls, 93 boiled, 90 boned, 91 flavored, 93 for lunch, 91

omelet, 92 patties, 94 patties fried, 94 patties with onions, 94 potted, 91
sandwiches, 94 stew, 91 toast, 93 with corn meal, 93 with veal, 92

Heart. boiled, 110 stuffed, 110

Liver. washed, 109 with bacon, 109 with onions, 109

Miscellaneous. bacon, broiled or fried, 99 boiled dinner, 100 brains, 99

broiled pork, 101 English brawn, 118 for Sunday luncheon, 101 German
wick-a-wack, 100 hams and shoulders, to keep, 119 headcheese, 117
kidney on toast, 104 lunch loaf, 101 omelet, 102, 103 pepper pot, 86
pickled pigs' feet, 103 pig's feet, 103 pig's head, 118 pork and beans, 100
pork cheese, 101 pork flour-gravy, 102 pork hash, 101 pork roll, 85 pork
pillau, 85 pork with pea pudding, 87 pork with sauer kraut, 87 scrapple, 117
souse, 116 tongue, 115

Pork Fritters. corn meal fritters, 104 croquettes, 86, 105 fricatelle, 105
fritters with egg, 104

Pork Pies, Cakes and Puddings. a hint for pork pie, 105 cake, 107 cake
without lard, 106 pork pie, 83, 105 pork pie with apples, 106 pork potpie,
83 pork pudding, 107 sea pie, 88 sparerib pie, 106

Roasts. Danish pork roast, 108 fresh leg, 107 sparerib, 108 sucking pig, 113
to roast whole pig, 113 with buttermilk, 108

Salt Pork. baked, 96 boiled, 97 creamed, 98 creamed in milk and water, 97

creamed, Mrs. Bisbee's, 96 egg pork, 97 fried in batter, 96 fried with
apples, 95 fried with flour, 94 fried with gravy, 95 fried with sage, 96 sweet
fried, 95

Sausage. good sausage, 111 sausage rolls, 111 with cabbage, 111 with dried
beef, 110
CHAPTER XVII. 125

Soups, Stews, etc. chowder, 88, 99 dry stew, 98 old-fashioned stew, 99

pork gumbo, 84 pork soup, 98 pork stew, 98 succotash, 84

ADVERTISEMENTS

Meats smoked in a few hours with

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Best Books for Swine Breeders.

Coburn's Swine Husbandry.

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By GEO. W. CURTIS. The origin, history, improvement, description,

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CHAPTER XVII. 126

practical breeders in the United States and Canada. 2.00

Diseases of Swine.

By D. MCINTOSH, V. S. A text-book for swine growers, veterinary

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New Methods in Education

CHAPTER XVII. 127

Art, Real Manual Training, Nature Study. Explaining Processes whereby

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AMONG THOSE WHO ENDORSE THE WORK ARE

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Philadelphia board of education.
CHAPTER XVII. 128

SECRETARY GOTZE--Of the leading pedagogical society of Germany

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[Illustration:
CHAPTER XVII. 129

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Greenhouse Construction.

By Prof. L. R. Taft. A complete treatise on greenhouse structures and

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CHAPTER XVII. 130

construction of hotbeds and frames receives appropriate attention. Over one

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Greenhouse Management.

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Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants.

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Irrigation Farming.

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CHAPTER XVII. 131

garden, the orchard and vineyard; windmills and pumps, appliances and
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Landscape Gardening.

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Fungi and Fungicides.

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Talks on Manure.

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Insects and Insecticides.

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Mushrooms. How to Grow Them.

CHAPTER XVII. 132

By Wm. Falconer. This is the most practical work on the subject ever
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Handbook of Plants and General Horticulture.

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Land Draining.

A handbook for farmers on the principles and practice of draining, by

Manly Miles, giving the results of his extended experience in laying tile
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will enable the farmer to avoid the errors of imperfect construction, and the
CHAPTER XVII. 133

disappointment that must necessarily follow. This manual for practical

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Henderson's Practical Floriculture.

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Tobacco Leaf.

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Play and Profit in My Garden.

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CHAPTER XVII. 134

Forest Planting.

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American Fruit Culturist.

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CHAPTER XVII. 135

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Gardening for Profit.

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Herbert's Hints to Horse Keepers.

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Barn Plans and Outbuildings.

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Cranberry Culture.
CHAPTER XVII. 136

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Turkeys and How to Grow Them.

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Profits in Poultry.

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How Crops Grow.

CHAPTER XVII. 137

By Prof. Samuel W. Johnson of Yale College. New and revised edition. A

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Coburn's Swine Husbandry.

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Stewart's Shepherd's Manual.

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Feeds and Feeding.

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CHAPTER XVII. 138

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CHAPTER XVII. 139

Market Gardening and Farm Notes.

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The Fruit Garden.

By P. Barry. A standard work on fruit and fruit trees, the author having had
over thirty years' practical experience at the head of one of the largest
nurseries in this country. Invaluable to all fruit growers. Illustrated. Cloth,
12mo. $1.50

The Nut Culturist.

By Andrew S. Fuller. A treatise on the propagation, planting and

cultivation of nut-bearing trees and shrubs adapted to the climate of the
United States, with the scientific and common names of the fruits known in
commerce as edible or otherwise useful nuts. Intended to aid the farmer to
increase his income without adding to his expenses or labor. 12mo. Cloth.
$1.50

American Grape Growing and Wine Making.

By George Husmann of California. New and enlarged edition. With

contributions from well-known grape growers, giving wide range of
experience. The author of this book is a recognized authority on the subject.
Cloth, 12mo. $1.50

Treat's Injurious Insects of the Farm and Garden.

By Mrs. Mary Treat. An original investigator who has added much to our
knowledge of both plants and insects, and those who are familiar with
CHAPTER XVII. 140

Darwin's works are aware that he gives her credit for important observation
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beneficial insects. Fully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50

The Dogs of Great Britain, America and Other Countries.

New, enlarged and revised edition. Their breeding, training and

management, in health and disease; comprising all the essential parts of the
two standard works on dogs by "Stonehenge." It describes the best game
and hunting grounds in America. Contains over one hundred beautiful
engravings, embracing most noted dogs in both continents, making,
together with chapters by American writers, the most complete dog book
ever published. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50

Harris on the Pig.

By Joseph Harris. New edition. Revised and enlarged by the author. The
points of the various English and American breeds are thoroughly
discussed, and the great advantage of using thoroughbred males clearly
shown. The work is equally valuable to the farmer who keeps but few pigs,
and to the breeder on an extensive scale. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $1.00

Pear Culture for Profit.

By P. T. Quinn, practical horticulturist. Teaching how to raise pears

intelligently, and with the best results, how to find out the character of the
soil, the best methods of preparing it, the best varieties to select under
existing conditions, the best modes of planting, pruning, fertilizing,
grafting, and utilizing the ground before the trees come into bearing, and,
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The Secrets of Health, or How Not to Be Sick, and How to Get Well from
Sickness.

By S. H. Platt, A. M., M. D., Late Member of the Connecticut Eclectic

Medical Society, the National Eclectic Medical Association, and Honorary
CHAPTER XVII. 141

Member of the National Bacteriological Society of America; Our Medical

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Gardening for Young and Old.

By Joseph Harris. A work intended to interest farmers' boys in farm

gardening, which means a better and more profitable form of agriculture.
The teachings are given in the familiar manner so well known in the
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Money in the Garden.

By P. T. Quinn. The author gives in a plain, practical style, instructions on

three distinct although closely connected branches of gardening--the
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The Pruning Book.

By L. H. Bailey. This is the first American work exclusively devoted to

pruning. It differs from most other treatises on this subject in that the author
takes particular pains to explain the principles of each operation in every
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the pruning and training of grapevines, both American and foreign. Every
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understood by even the merest beginner. Cloth, 8vo, 530 pages. Illustrated.
$1.50

Transcriber's Notes:
CHAPTER XVII. 142

Passages in italics are indicated by underscore.

The following misprints have been corrected:

"English, bacon varieties of lard" corrected to "English bacon, varieties of

lard" (Table of Contents) "acking" corrected to "Packing" (page 77)
"vingar" corrected to "vinegar" (page 116)

The wide table on page 78 has been split. The left column is repeated in the
second half as an aid to the reader.

End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Home Pork Making, by A. W.

Fulton

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CHAPTER XVII. 152

Home Pork Making, by A. W. Fulton

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