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nl - September 2011
BicycleTraveler
International Magazine on Bicycle Touring
Extrawheel
Crossing borders
September 2011
Tibet photo
story
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- www.BicycleTraveler.nl 1
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Contents
BicycleTraveler
Stories
06
09
20
25
By Peter Gostelow
By Friedel Grant
Photography
10
30
34
By Nathalie Pellegrinelli
Equipment
16
Trip Gear
18
Test Extrawheel
By Grace Johnson
By Tom Allen
Interview
26
Column
33
icycle Traveler magazine is my attempt at bringing some of the best bicycle touring
photography and stories together in a magazine format. I hope you enjoy reading it as
much as I enjoyed putting it together.
A big thanks goes out to all of the contributors who gave permission to reprint their
stories and pictures. You can visit their websites by clicking on the url in their article bios.
Contact
info@bicycletraveler.nl
Copyright
Bicycle Traveler is copyright Grace Johnson
All material has been used with permission
and is copyright original sources.
Disclaimer
The articles published reflect the opinions
of their respective authors and are not
necessarily those of the editor.
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Contributors
Rick & Maggie Back in the World
Zoa & Fin Cycling Gypsies
Helen Lloyd Helens Take on
Nathalie Pellegrinelli Nathalie flickr
Tom Allen Toms Bike Trip
Peter Gostelow Big Africa Cycle
Friedel & Andrew Travelling Two
Claude Marthaler Yaksite
Dennis & Marijcke Toko op Fietsvakantie
Paul Jeurissen Paul Jeurissen
Loretta Henderson Skalatitude
Daisuke Nakanishi Daisuke Bike
Grace Johnson
Dolomites
06
Grizzly Bear cross, had attained something of minor celebrity status. Narrow
cobblestoned streets would often become
congested with bottlenecks of admirers
with the cries of Ciao bello! Ciao bello!
08
The
Hungry cyclist
By Helen Lloyd
Paul Jeurissen
The beer map of Africa and other trip reports from Helen Lloyds journey England South Africa can be found on: http://helenstakeon.com.
Photo Story
Tibet
Photos: Nathalie Pellegrinelli
10
12
14
4
1. Potala palace, Lhasa 2. Ganden Monastery
3. Mani stones 4. Nathalie with herdswoman
5. Nomad family
You can see more of Nathalies photos from her
two year bicycle trip through North Africa and
Asia, plus pictures from her current travels at:
Nathalie Pellegrinelli - flickr.
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September 2011 - www.BicycleTraveler.nl 15
Trip Gear
Equipment
Leightweight Pocketknife
The newest pocketknife from French knifemaker Baladeo weighs just 22 grams. The
stainless steel knife unfolds to a length of
6,7 inches. Price: U.S. $30
www.baldeo.com
16
Expedition Tire
Titanium Spork
Equipment
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sic trailer are immediately obvious. The plastic-and-fabric hood has now gone, replaced
by an optional lightweight fender (which I
removed for weight-saving and simplicity).
The amount of metal in the frame has been
halved. Its so simple it seems ridiculous that
nobody thought of it before! The whole thing
fits into a standard bike box along with the
bike itself! Extrawheels claim to have produced the worlds lightest single-wheel trailer seems to be well-founded.
Coupling with the bike is done using the
original sprung-steel fork, which I have found
to be 100% reliable. The bearing surfaces
have been redesigned so that the ball and
socket can each be replaced, rather than
having to replace the whole frame or fork
if the bearing surfaces wore through (as
&
Checkposts
Magic Letters
Hiromu and Peter Gostelow cross
into the Central African Republic
Story & Photos: peter Gostelow
20
Hiromu and
I half-expected he would
laugh and throw the letter
back at me
apparently I do to enter Bangui, so down it
went in my passport, swiftly followed by a
serious demand for $20. The magic letter
didnt work on this occasion, but fortunately
I already had the passport back in my possession while the call for 10,000CFA was repeated. Hiromu on the other hand didnt. It
September 2011 - www.BicycleTraveler.nl 23
24
Paul Jeurissen
America
small town
By Friedel Grant
7:06pm. Someone in Lakeside found an injured bird, possibly a robin. The individual has
made arrangements to care for the creature.
7:51pm. A man was wandering about in a pair
of G-string underpants near the Steel Bridge,
much to the dismay of passers-by. Authorities
were unable to locate said individual.
4:54am. A man was seen hiding in
the bushes near a Columbia Falls residence. Upon further investigation, it was
found that he was the homeowner. BT
Friedel & Andrew Grants extensive website
www.travellingtwo.com contains their bike trip
reports, resources for bicycle travelers and the
e-book Bike Touring Survival Guide.
Eric Attwell
Interview
Claude Marthaler
Africa in the thirties was a continent of colonies. A descendant of the English generation of 1820 settlers in South Africa, Eric
Attwell had to send to London, the imperial
capital, for a bike. A modest man of modest
means, he chose a bicycle: a car or a motorbike was far too expensive and a journey
on foot would have been too long. His family thought he was mad. I have just been
reading your letter and have decided that
when you wrote it you must have been drunk
wrote Sonny, his elder brother. Pushing the
bike up long hills after touring the country in
a comfortable car would be absolute misery,
especially when other cars fly past you covering you with dust. In retrospect, Eric thinks
that they werent mad at all, but extremely
fortunate to have seen Africa as it was then.
Wilfred Thesiger once wrote: Travel is a
kind of delinquency, because it is antisocial,
a rejection of the norms most people live.
There was an element of creative delinquency in the Attwells African odyssey. Eric had
been involved in left-wing politics in Britain,
particularly over the issue of the Spanish
Civil War, and had read the pacifist writings
of Bertrand Russell. He and his brother Jack,
the elder by ten years, worked at a radio and
refrigeration business. This was now closing
down, and at the same time, the threat of
military conscription loomed. Young men still,
they wanted to see the world, not fight in it.
Jack was reading Hammertons Our
Wonderful World, explained Eric, and I had
been gripped by Howard Carters absorbing
account of the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen. About a year earlier, after an evening at the cinema, we walked on the beachfront. We started to talk of travel in a casual
way, as often before. When we returned to our
car, hours later, there seemed hardly a corner
of the world we were not determined to visit.
They knocked at the door of three bike
companies dealers in Johannesburg:
his toes bumping the front wheel once every revolution. He caught malaria in Malawi
all the same. One night, while Eric was on
his sick bed, Jack (an incurably popular character who never seemed to arrive at a conventional hour was invited to a rather wild
party and rolled into our room at 2 a.m. in
a very merry state. He must have been very
popular at the party because his guitar had
two broken strings, the tips of his playing fingers were quite raw and his voice had almost
gone. Eric himself had barely recovered before they set off again. Every down-stroke of
the pedal was a major effort and my condition was not helped by the blistering heat.
The equator was still over 1,1OO kilometres
away and we could expect every day to be
progressively hotter.
In Uganda, they were pleasantly surprised
by the number of cyclists: One reflection of
the relative prosperity of the people was the
remarkable number of bicycles. Practically
every adult male in the country seemed to
own a bike and the more affluent decorated
them with an absurd variety of gadgets. Frequently we spotted a cyclist with his wife on
the pillion, in all her flowing garments and a
baby perched on her back. But we never saw
a woman cycling alone... Occasionally we
saw cyclists plying for hire bicycle taxis.
Further north they were defeated by Sudans virtually non-existent desert roads and
had to do the thousand kilometre stretch
from Juba to Khartoum by paddle steamer
up the Nile. In almost every Egyptian village
they were harassed by lean, hungry, ferocious dogs, taking out upon them years of
frustration barking at imperturbable camels
and donkeys: The dogs bark but the caravan moves on, runs the ancient saying.
Not that the city streets were much safer.
In Egypt pavements are for cafs, traders,
shoe cleaners in fact for any purpose except walking. As a consequence everybody
walks in the road. The motorist, wanting to
Image
the
from
Road
Kyrgyzstan
Dennis Koomen
www.toko-op-fietsvakantie.nl
30
Photography
Image
the
from
Road
Scotland
Paul Jeurissen
www.pauljeurissen.nl
32
Column
sinners
By Loretta Henderson
for I have sinned, I am not worthy of the pulpit or spandex for that matter.
It has been 7 days since my last ride in the brooks saddle on this trip.
unnecessary bicycle checkups and double checking
maps on the internet became
prerequisites to getting off
the bicycle for even one day.
Simply being lazy or not riding for one day just because
was not an option for his and
many sin cloaked addicted bicycle tourist souls.
Oh Father Pedal, why does
bicycle touring involve such addiction, withdraw and guilt?Is
it the endorphin high and
withdrawal from 4-7 hours of
daily exercise? Or perhaps our
egos are unaware that there
is other less attention getting
acts in life.Or maybe, it is the inner child
trying to relive our favourite childhood moments of riding a bicycle.Oh Father Pedal,
please forgive me for I have joined the other
sinners.Please help me twelve step my way
back into the saddle, continue this journey
and seek solace amongst other sinners or
bicycle tourists along the way. And Father
Pedal please forgive me because God Bless
The Sinners has become my favorite expression for all acts of joyful blasphemy. BT
Paul Jeurissen
Parting shot
BicycleTraveler
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