AMD 305

Quality Assurance of Textiles & Apparel

Paper 2 - Gap Dress Specifications

By: Paige Myers, Tayla Krepps, Elyse Hofmeyer, and Sarah Martin
Fall 2015 - 10/8/15 - Dr. Xiang

Part 1 page 1
Part 2 page 1
Part 3 page 2
Part 4 page 2
Part 5 (paper 1) 6
Part 6 (paper 1) 8
Part 5 page 9
Part 6 page 11

Part 1
Our product is a dress from Gap made of 100% Lyocell. An example of Gaps
target market would be, Kate, who is a 26 year old graduate from Illinois State
University. She is now making $36,000 a year at her current job. Kate commutes to her
job from her townhome located right outside the of the city. In her spare time, Kate likes
to hang out with friends and casually date. Going to see movies and trying new
restaurants are some of the activities she enjoys. To relax and stay in shape, Kate takes
yoga classes at her nearest gym. Looking fashionable without paying too much is very
important to her. Kate goes to Gap to get staple items for her wardrobe that they can
accessorize. Our customer is going to want clothing that is easy to care for and no hassle.
If Kate were to purchase this dress she could comfortably wear it throughout the
day on weekends during spring or summer time. She would want the dress to be easy to
care for and retain appearance after multiple washes. Kate would expect the dress to last
her at least 2-3 seasons. With the dress lasting 2-3 seasons she can expect it to be
moderately priced. It is not a budget garment but it is not high end.

Part 2
The garment we were given for our projects, Paper 1 and 2, was a Gap brand light
red dress that has a henley collar, a detachable belt that goes around the waist, and a
high/low hemline. The materials that make up the dress include the following: 1)
Fabric, 2) Thread, 3) Buttons, and 4) Labels. The body, collar, placket, sleeves, and
detachable belt are made from 100% Tencel Lyocell, which is a regenerated cellulosic
manufactured fiber with a warp-faced twill weave and is fabric dyed to a Cinnamon
Candy color. Some positives to this choice of fabric are that it has high absorbency, no
static, good abrasion resistance, and moderate light resistance. Some negatives to this
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choice of fabric are poor thermal retention and that the color/colors used may crock or
bleed.
The thread used throughout the garment to connect seams and to create the belt
loops on the side seams is Cinnamon Candy colored, which is made from 100%
Polyester and has a TEX size of 28. The thread used to attach the buttons to the collar
and front placket is white is made from 100% Polyester and has a TEX size of 28. One
thing to note about the white thread is that it has a pink tint to it, which could be a sign
of color crocking or bleeding . There are four glossy crme white colored buttons on the
collar and front placket , which are sized at 18 Ligne. There are four labels used
throughout the dress. The first one is at the center back neck inside the garment, which
has the brand, size, and country of origin written on it. This label is made of 100%
Cotton. The other three are care labels attached on the inside side seam at 3 from
the front hem and are made of 100% Cotton, which is then laminated. Another thing to
note about these three care labels is that while they are white, they have a pink tint to
them, which as listed previously, could be a sign of color crocking or bleeding.

Part 3
Physical performance of the fashion fabric is very important. There are key
components we look at when considering the performance of the fabric and materials.
The performance needs to match the expectations set. The main components required in
the physical performance for our garment include: durability, colorfastness, care and
appearance retention, comfort, safety, and aesthetics.
In regards to durability we examine the tearing strength. Tearing strength is a
reflection of the fabrics yarn strength. Seam strength is very important in the fact of
holding the garment together. Pilling is another component in durability we look for.
Pilling is a measure of abrasion resistance that deals with fiber ends breaking at the
surface of the fabric. Once pilling occurs it is likely that it will continue and worsen.
Snagging also relates to abrasion. Once the fabric is pulled by another material it starts
to change the structure of the fabric. The ASTM Snagging Resistance of Fabrics or bean
bag test is a good measure of snagging evaluation.
Colorfastness is also very important as we are looking at our dress. Light may
affect certain fabrics as they absorb or reflect. Color fading may occur and will be
examined. What happens to a fabrics color as water is introduced? Water bleeding will
need to be watched. Color loss and color transfer must be evaluated. Appropriate
cleaning directions will be taken into account for the specific garment. Crocking of the
fabric will be evaluated through the AATCC Crockmeter testing. When perspiration is
introduced the fabric may be altered and will need to be inspected through the AATCC
Colorfastness to Perspiration.
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Over time care and appearance retention need to be evaluated. When the dress is
laundered it needs to be able to withstand the laundering and care conditions it may
endure. Migration and bleeding of the colorants are a main concern in the processes of
laundering. Also what happens when the dress is exposed to certain temperatures if
perhaps heat ironed? Dimensional change will be considered as to various shrinkage
components such as felting shrinkage and heat shrinkage. If the dress becomes soiled,
will it come out? Appearance retention is another huge expectation we will look at.
Wrinkle recovery and whiteness will be examined.
Comfort and safety will be considered as another component of our product
performance aspects. Hand of the fabric is examined as it relates to the feel and
movement of the fabric. We will expect our fabric to have the appropriate interaction
with the body. Wicking is another aspect important as water slides across the fabric.
AATCC Spray test is once test that examines water resistance. Flammability relates to
how a material responds to heat whether it inflames or extinguishes is important.
Aesthetics is a final component that will be highly taken into account. Drape
needs to be considered as it relates to the hang of the three dimensional form. The
drapemeter shadow test will be used to determine drape evaluation. Stiffness will
measure the overall resistance the fabric has to bending. The fabric needs to be flexible.
The overall creasing and wrinkling of the dress is important as it contributes to the
entire aesthetic of the garment.
Part 4
Bill of Materials/Specs
Item/Description

Content

Placement

Size/Weight

Fabric

Cinnamon Candy
colored 100%
Tencel Lyocell

Body, collar,
placket, sleeves,
detachable belt

Size Range XS - XXL

Size of garment
given XXL

Thread

100% Polyester Two Colors:

Cinnamon Candy
and White

Seams and belt

loops on side side;
tacking buttons
onto collar and
placket

Tex 28

Label

Logo/Size/Country
of Origin - 1; 100%

Back neck 1 from neck

1 x

Cotton

band

Label

Care - 3 in total;
100% Cotton,
laminated

3 from bottom
left hem

All other labels

3 x 1

Buttons

Glossy creme white

plastic - 4 in total

Collar/Front
Placket

18 Ligne

Points of Measure
Placement

REF

XL

XXL

XXXL

Tol.

Waist Circumference
(relaxed)

AW-A

48

49 ''

51

Waist Circumference
(stretched)

AW-B

48

49 ''

51

Sweep

AW-C

25

26''

27

Front Crotch Length

including w/band

AW-D

N/A

N/A

N/A

Back Crotch Length

including w/band

AW-E

N/A

N/A

N/A

Front length from top

edge of HPS

AW-F

37 11/16

38 11/16''

39

Back length from top

edge of w/band

AW-G

40

41 ''

43

Neckhole width

AW-H

8 ''

Front neck drop

AW-I

3 ''

Back neck drop

AW-J

''

Bust

AW-K

23

24 ''

25

Mid-armhole width

AW-L

22

22 ''

22

Shoulder length

AWM

7 ''

Placket length

AW-N

11

11

11

Placket width

AW-O

Neckband Width

AW-P

1''

Waistband width

AW-Q

1 ''

Length of waistband

AW-R

78

79 ''

80

Hem turnup depth

AW-S

''

Construction
Area

Stitch/Type

Finish

Yoke to Back

LSr single lock stitch

SPI - 11

Shoulder Seam

LSr single lock stitch

SPI - 11

Side Seam

LSr single lock stitch

SPI - 11

Arm Binding

LSf single lock stitch

SPI - 11

Waist Loops

LSr - Chain thread loops

Placket

BSc single lock stitch

SPI - 11

Collar

BSc - double needle

SPI - 11

4 - Hole Button

Tack on with white thread,

securing it on the back side of the
fabric

N/A

Shirt Hem

EFb single lock stitch

SPI - 11

Waistband

EFad single lock stitch

SPI - 11

Part 5
Product Zones 1, 2, and 3:
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Product Zone 1 (Visibly Dominant)

Front of collar
Top front of the body
Front of sleeves
Back yoke
Back front of the body
Product Zone 2 (Non-Visibly Dominant)
Back of collar
Back of sleeves
Bottom front of the body
Product Zone 3 (Hidden or Visible From Time to Time)
Detachable belt
Front hem of dress
Back hem of dress
After thoroughly examining our garment, we concluded that there are no present
defects and then we came up with a product zoning system that we believe Gap would
use to determine whether or not a garment meets their the set standards or not due to
defects. For Product Zone 1, we said that their should not be any major defects and 2 or
less minor defect (Ex. Closure not working (major) or yarn slub in a pocket lining
(minor). For Product Zone 2, we decided that there should be one or less major defects
and three or less minor defects. And lastly, for Product Zone 3, we established that
there should be two or less major defects and five or less minor defects. When looking
at the number of unacceptable samples before rejecting the lot, we decided that it might
be around 2.5% of 200 samples, which is around 5 samples.

Part 6
Characteristics Specification

Procedure

Results

Comments

Weft,downward
left,twill,
Cinnamon
CandyRed

Accept

FabricStructure

Weft,downward VisualAnalysis
left,twill,
Cinnamon
CandyRed

Count

40wpi

ASTMD3775,
40wpi
WarpEndCount
andFillingPick
CountofWoven
Fabric

Accept

Weight

5oz/yd2

ASTMD3776,
4.75oz/yd
MassperUnit
Area(Weight)of
WovenFabric.

Accept

Bow

2%maximum

ASTMD3882,
3.125%offgrain Spec.toolow
BowandSkew
inWovenand
KnittedFabrics.

YarnType

100% Polyester
thread: Simple,
spun

ASTMD123,
Standard
Terminology
Relatingto
Textiles.

100%Polyester
threadSimple,
spun

Accept

Fabric
Type/Name

Cinnamon
Candy colored
100% Lyocell

Cinnamon
Candycolored
100%Lyocell

Accept

YarnTwist

16tpi

ASTMD1422,
8.2tpi
TwistinSingle
SpunYarnsby
the
UntwistRetwist
Method,and
ASTMD1423
TwistinYarns
by
DirectCounting

Spec.toohigh

YarnNumber

Nc=30=10

ASTMD1059,
YarnNumber

Accept

Nc=13.36

Basedon
ShortLength
Specimens.
FiberContent

100% Lyocell

AATCCFiber
Analysis:
Qualitative,and
ASTMD276.

100%Lyocell

Accept

Perspiration

Class3
minimum

AATCC15:
3
Colorfastnessto
Perspiration

Accept

Maintenance
(laundering)

Class3
minimum

AATCC61
Laundering
Domesticand
Commercial

Reject,Major
Bleedingand
CockingIssues

Crocking

Dry:class4
minimum
Wet:class3
minimum

AATCC8
Colorfastnessto
Crocking.
Crockmeter
Method

Dry:1
Gray:4.5
Wet:1
Gray2.5

Reject

Abrasion
Resistance

300cycles
minimum

ASTMD
Abrasion
Resistanceof
TextileFabrics.

300

Accept,met
consumer
acceptance
levels

Snagging

Class3
minimum
45preferred

ASTMD5362,
Snagging
Resistanceof
Fabrics(Bean
Bag)

4.5

Accept

SeamStrength

50psi

ASTMD204
40psi
SewingThreads

Accept,meets
customer
acceptance
levels

Part5:Paper2

Care/AppearanceRetention

UsingtheAATCCchromaticscalestandardsourdryandwetcrockingsampleresulted
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ina1.Usingthegrayscaleourdrysamplewasa4.5andourwetwasa2.5.For
testingthewrinklerecoverywefoundthatourfabricislikelytostaywrinkledonceit
hasbeenwrinkled.Allofoursamplesfailedbyreceivinga1or2foranevaluation
score.

Aesthetics

Whentestedforsnagging,ourfabricresultedinslighttominimalsnags.Soifa
customerweretobewearingthisfabricitislikelytonotsnagallthatmuchwhichin
turnwouldkeepthegarmentaestheticallypleasing.However,thepillingresultsforour
fabricfailed.Thesampleswereevaluatedatanaverageof2.25whichisconsidered
severepilling.

Comfort/Safety

Toevaluatethecomfortandsafetyofourfabricweranmultipletestincludingtheair
permeability,drapability,wicking,waterresistant,andflammability.Theair
permeabilityofourfabricaveragedouttobe6.25secsaftertesting5samples.The
drapecoefficientforthefrontturnedouttobe22.15%and19.91%fortheback.These
resultsindicatethatourfabricwashighlydrapable.Whiletestingthewickingability,
thewatertraveledupthesamplesoffabricanaverageof1.Wefoundthatour
fabricwasnotveryresistanttowater.Theblotterpaperusedtotesttheresistance
increasedinweightbyanaverageof154%.Ourlastsafetytestwasflammability
whichfailedaccordingtothestandards.Allofoursamplesburnedforover30secs
whichresultedinthembeingclassifiedasClassIII:textilethatisunsuitablefor
apparel.

Taber

Totestthedurabilityofourfabrictoteststheresistanceusingapercentagelossin
breakingpointmethodorbasedonendpoint.Escentiallycheckingtoseeifthe
durabilitylevelofthefabriccankeeppacewiththeconsumer.Todothiswetookthe
TaberAbraisorandsetitupfor300cyclesandtheproperweightandsandingrings
forthefabric.Thefirsttimeweranthetesttheringsweretoocoarseanditshreaded
thefabricinthelate80scompletly.Changingthemtoamuchsoftergritprovedtobe
toosoft,onourthirdtrialweendedupwithahappymedium.Betweenourfive
samplesthechangesinfabricweightrangedfrom.7%to1.3%.Withinaverage
weightof4.17attheend.Despiteamediumgritsandingring,thefabricwasstillpretty
easilyworndown.ThiswasaASTMD3884testandispass/failbasedonavisual
inspection.Allsamplestestedwerefailed.

Tear

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TensilMachinewasusedtotesttheElongation,seamstrength,andteartesting.
Therewasnotmuchdifferencebetweentheteartestingresultsvisuallybutonthe
graphthewarpthreadshadahigherrangeofresults,mostlikelyduetothetighter
tensionatwhichfillthreadsperpendicularheldthemtogethermore.Duringthe
elongationtestallresultsrippedalongtheseamlines.Thefabrictearingleavingthe
seamintact.

Colorfastness

AATCC61isthetestforcolorfastnessanditwasdonewith5differentcylinders
washingfabricsamplesandvarioustypesofdetergentsandagitators.Cylinderone:
200mlofwater,.37%detergent,10SteelBalls.Cylindertwo:150mlofwater,.15%
detergent,50steelballs.Cylinderthree:50mlofwater,.15%detergent,100steel
balls.Cylinderfour:10mlofwater,.15%detergent,.015%clorine,100steelballs.
Cylinderfive:150mlofwater,.15%detergent,.027%clorine,50steelballs.Stripsof
fabricsewntomultifiberswatchtotestforcolorfastness.Manyoftheresultsthatcame
backwererated3orworse.Bleedingwasamajorproblemthroughoutthefulltesting
process.

Part6,Paper2
Overall,wefeelthatthetargetcustomerofthisGAPbranddresswouldbesatisfied
withthisproductasitworkswellforitsintendedenduse.GAPbrandscriteriafor
acceptanceonascalefrom1to5isarounda3.5orhigherforpassingandwhenwe
werecompletingtestingforthesetwoGAPbranddresses,weranintotestresultsthat
bothpassedandfailed.Forexample,itfailedwaterrepellency/resistanceaswellas
waterimpactpenetrationwhileithasgoodsnaggingresistanceandgaveavery
drapedappearancewitha19.91%onthefrontanda22.15%ontheback.These
resultsworkwellsincethedressisnotintendedtobeanitemthatisexposedtowater
often,likeanoutdoorrunningjacketwouldbe,anditsaplusthatitdoesnotsnagas
easilyasothergarmentsmightanditsdrapedappearanceachievesthelookthatwas
desiredbythedesignersatGAPbrandwhocreatedit.
Oneissueinparticularwiththisgarmentthatshouldberelookedatandchangedis
colorfastnesstocrocking.Whenrunningboththedryandwettests,wereceivedthe
followingscores:1)Dry1ontheAATCCChromaticScaleanda4.5ontheGray
Scaleand2)Wet1ontheAATCCChromaticScaleanda2.5ontheGrayScale.
TheseresultsproveproblematicastheCinnamonCandyredcolorofthegarment
easilycameoffonthewhitetestcloth,whetheritwasdryorwet,whichmighteffect
thewearerbyhavingthecolorruboffontotheirskin.Thisissueofcolorwasnoticed
pretestingbecausetheredcolorhadturnedthewhitethreadusedtosewonthe
buttonsandthewhitepolyestercarelabelontheinsideofthegarmentpink.
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Itisimportanttonotethatthistestshouldbeconductedafterthegarmenthasbeen
washedtoseeifitstillhasthateffectbuteitherway,whenshippingthisgarmenttoa
storelocation,thisgarmentshouldbewrappedupinawaythatinhibitsitsabilityto
changethecolorofotheritems.Therefore,GAPbrandmaywanttolookintothedye
processtheyusedorthedyesthemselvesinordertolessentheeffectsofthiscolor
change.Theonlyrealdifferenceweranintowhentestingbetweenthewarpandweft
wasduringtheelongationtests,wherestripsoffabricwerepulledatbothwarpand
weftdirection.Theresultswerethattheweftstretchedinaweirdwaywithsome
puckeringwhilethewarpdidnotactthatway.Webelieveitmaybeduetotheway
thefabriciswovenasthewarpandweftaredifferentinnatureandthatthefabricwas
atwillweave.

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