Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
By: Paige Myers, Tayla Krepps, Elyse Hofmeyer, and Sarah Martin
Fall 2015 - 10/8/15 - Dr. Xiang
Part 1 page 1
Part 2 page 1
Part 3 page 2
Part 4 page 2
Part 5 (paper 1) 6
Part 6 (paper 1) 8
Part 5 page 9
Part 6 page 11
Part 1
Our product is a dress from Gap made of 100% Lyocell. An example of Gaps
target market would be, Kate, who is a 26 year old graduate from Illinois State
University. She is now making $36,000 a year at her current job. Kate commutes to her
job from her townhome located right outside the of the city. In her spare time, Kate likes
to hang out with friends and casually date. Going to see movies and trying new
restaurants are some of the activities she enjoys. To relax and stay in shape, Kate takes
yoga classes at her nearest gym. Looking fashionable without paying too much is very
important to her. Kate goes to Gap to get staple items for her wardrobe that they can
accessorize. Our customer is going to want clothing that is easy to care for and no hassle.
If Kate were to purchase this dress she could comfortably wear it throughout the
day on weekends during spring or summer time. She would want the dress to be easy to
care for and retain appearance after multiple washes. Kate would expect the dress to last
her at least 2-3 seasons. With the dress lasting 2-3 seasons she can expect it to be
moderately priced. It is not a budget garment but it is not high end.
Part 2
The garment we were given for our projects, Paper 1 and 2, was a Gap brand light
red dress that has a henley collar, a detachable belt that goes around the waist, and a
high/low hemline. The materials that make up the dress include the following: 1)
Fabric, 2) Thread, 3) Buttons, and 4) Labels. The body, collar, placket, sleeves, and
detachable belt are made from 100% Tencel Lyocell, which is a regenerated cellulosic
manufactured fiber with a warp-faced twill weave and is fabric dyed to a Cinnamon
Candy color. Some positives to this choice of fabric are that it has high absorbency, no
static, good abrasion resistance, and moderate light resistance. Some negatives to this
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choice of fabric are poor thermal retention and that the color/colors used may crock or
bleed.
The thread used throughout the garment to connect seams and to create the belt
loops on the side seams is Cinnamon Candy colored, which is made from 100%
Polyester and has a TEX size of 28. The thread used to attach the buttons to the collar
and front placket is white is made from 100% Polyester and has a TEX size of 28. One
thing to note about the white thread is that it has a pink tint to it, which could be a sign
of color crocking or bleeding . There are four glossy crme white colored buttons on the
collar and front placket , which are sized at 18 Ligne. There are four labels used
throughout the dress. The first one is at the center back neck inside the garment, which
has the brand, size, and country of origin written on it. This label is made of 100%
Cotton. The other three are care labels attached on the inside side seam at 3 from
the front hem and are made of 100% Cotton, which is then laminated. Another thing to
note about these three care labels is that while they are white, they have a pink tint to
them, which as listed previously, could be a sign of color crocking or bleeding.
Part 3
Physical performance of the fashion fabric is very important. There are key
components we look at when considering the performance of the fabric and materials.
The performance needs to match the expectations set. The main components required in
the physical performance for our garment include: durability, colorfastness, care and
appearance retention, comfort, safety, and aesthetics.
In regards to durability we examine the tearing strength. Tearing strength is a
reflection of the fabrics yarn strength. Seam strength is very important in the fact of
holding the garment together. Pilling is another component in durability we look for.
Pilling is a measure of abrasion resistance that deals with fiber ends breaking at the
surface of the fabric. Once pilling occurs it is likely that it will continue and worsen.
Snagging also relates to abrasion. Once the fabric is pulled by another material it starts
to change the structure of the fabric. The ASTM Snagging Resistance of Fabrics or bean
bag test is a good measure of snagging evaluation.
Colorfastness is also very important as we are looking at our dress. Light may
affect certain fabrics as they absorb or reflect. Color fading may occur and will be
examined. What happens to a fabrics color as water is introduced? Water bleeding will
need to be watched. Color loss and color transfer must be evaluated. Appropriate
cleaning directions will be taken into account for the specific garment. Crocking of the
fabric will be evaluated through the AATCC Crockmeter testing. When perspiration is
introduced the fabric may be altered and will need to be inspected through the AATCC
Colorfastness to Perspiration.
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Over time care and appearance retention need to be evaluated. When the dress is
laundered it needs to be able to withstand the laundering and care conditions it may
endure. Migration and bleeding of the colorants are a main concern in the processes of
laundering. Also what happens when the dress is exposed to certain temperatures if
perhaps heat ironed? Dimensional change will be considered as to various shrinkage
components such as felting shrinkage and heat shrinkage. If the dress becomes soiled,
will it come out? Appearance retention is another huge expectation we will look at.
Wrinkle recovery and whiteness will be examined.
Comfort and safety will be considered as another component of our product
performance aspects. Hand of the fabric is examined as it relates to the feel and
movement of the fabric. We will expect our fabric to have the appropriate interaction
with the body. Wicking is another aspect important as water slides across the fabric.
AATCC Spray test is once test that examines water resistance. Flammability relates to
how a material responds to heat whether it inflames or extinguishes is important.
Aesthetics is a final component that will be highly taken into account. Drape
needs to be considered as it relates to the hang of the three dimensional form. The
drapemeter shadow test will be used to determine drape evaluation. Stiffness will
measure the overall resistance the fabric has to bending. The fabric needs to be flexible.
The overall creasing and wrinkling of the dress is important as it contributes to the
entire aesthetic of the garment.
Part 4
Bill of Materials/Specs
Item/Description
Content
Placement
Size/Weight
Fabric
Cinnamon Candy
colored 100%
Tencel Lyocell
Body, collar,
placket, sleeves,
detachable belt
Thread
Tex 28
Label
Logo/Size/Country
of Origin - 1; 100%
1 x
Cotton
band
Label
Care - 3 in total;
100% Cotton,
laminated
3 from bottom
left hem
Buttons
Collar/Front
Placket
18 Ligne
Points of Measure
Placement
REF
XL
XXL
XXXL
Tol.
Waist Circumference
(relaxed)
AW-A
48
49 ''
51
Waist Circumference
(stretched)
AW-B
48
49 ''
51
Sweep
AW-C
25
26''
27
AW-D
N/A
N/A
N/A
AW-E
N/A
N/A
N/A
AW-F
37 11/16
38 11/16''
39
AW-G
40
41 ''
43
Neckhole width
AW-H
8 ''
AW-I
3 ''
AW-J
''
Bust
AW-K
23
24 ''
25
Mid-armhole width
AW-L
22
22 ''
22
Shoulder length
AWM
7 ''
Placket length
AW-N
11
11
11
Placket width
AW-O
Neckband Width
AW-P
1''
Waistband width
AW-Q
1 ''
Length of waistband
AW-R
78
79 ''
80
AW-S
''
Construction
Area
Stitch/Type
Finish
Yoke to Back
SPI - 11
Shoulder Seam
SPI - 11
Side Seam
SPI - 11
Arm Binding
SPI - 11
Waist Loops
Placket
SPI - 11
Collar
SPI - 11
4 - Hole Button
N/A
Shirt Hem
SPI - 11
Waistband
SPI - 11
Part 5
Product Zones 1, 2, and 3:
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Part 6
Characteristics Specification
Procedure
Results
Comments
Weft,downward
left,twill,
Cinnamon
CandyRed
Accept
FabricStructure
Weft,downward VisualAnalysis
left,twill,
Cinnamon
CandyRed
Count
40wpi
ASTMD3775,
40wpi
WarpEndCount
andFillingPick
CountofWoven
Fabric
Accept
Weight
5oz/yd2
ASTMD3776,
4.75oz/yd
MassperUnit
Area(Weight)of
WovenFabric.
Accept
Bow
2%maximum
ASTMD3882,
3.125%offgrain Spec.toolow
BowandSkew
inWovenand
KnittedFabrics.
YarnType
100% Polyester
thread: Simple,
spun
ASTMD123,
Standard
Terminology
Relatingto
Textiles.
100%Polyester
threadSimple,
spun
Accept
Fabric
Type/Name
Cinnamon
Candy colored
100% Lyocell
Cinnamon
Candycolored
100%Lyocell
Accept
YarnTwist
16tpi
ASTMD1422,
8.2tpi
TwistinSingle
SpunYarnsby
the
UntwistRetwist
Method,and
ASTMD1423
TwistinYarns
by
DirectCounting
Spec.toohigh
YarnNumber
Nc=30=10
ASTMD1059,
YarnNumber
Accept
Nc=13.36
Basedon
ShortLength
Specimens.
FiberContent
100% Lyocell
AATCCFiber
Analysis:
Qualitative,and
ASTMD276.
100%Lyocell
Accept
Perspiration
Class3
minimum
AATCC15:
3
Colorfastnessto
Perspiration
Accept
Maintenance
(laundering)
Class3
minimum
AATCC61
Laundering
Domesticand
Commercial
Reject,Major
Bleedingand
CockingIssues
Crocking
Dry:class4
minimum
Wet:class3
minimum
AATCC8
Colorfastnessto
Crocking.
Crockmeter
Method
Dry:1
Gray:4.5
Wet:1
Gray2.5
Reject
Abrasion
Resistance
300cycles
minimum
ASTMD
Abrasion
Resistanceof
TextileFabrics.
300
Accept,met
consumer
acceptance
levels
Snagging
Class3
minimum
45preferred
ASTMD5362,
Snagging
Resistanceof
Fabrics(Bean
Bag)
4.5
Accept
SeamStrength
50psi
ASTMD204
40psi
SewingThreads
Accept,meets
customer
acceptance
levels
Part5:Paper2
Care/AppearanceRetention
UsingtheAATCCchromaticscalestandardsourdryandwetcrockingsampleresulted
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ina1.Usingthegrayscaleourdrysamplewasa4.5andourwetwasa2.5.For
testingthewrinklerecoverywefoundthatourfabricislikelytostaywrinkledonceit
hasbeenwrinkled.Allofoursamplesfailedbyreceivinga1or2foranevaluation
score.
Aesthetics
Whentestedforsnagging,ourfabricresultedinslighttominimalsnags.Soifa
customerweretobewearingthisfabricitislikelytonotsnagallthatmuchwhichin
turnwouldkeepthegarmentaestheticallypleasing.However,thepillingresultsforour
fabricfailed.Thesampleswereevaluatedatanaverageof2.25whichisconsidered
severepilling.
Comfort/Safety
Toevaluatethecomfortandsafetyofourfabricweranmultipletestincludingtheair
permeability,drapability,wicking,waterresistant,andflammability.Theair
permeabilityofourfabricaveragedouttobe6.25secsaftertesting5samples.The
drapecoefficientforthefrontturnedouttobe22.15%and19.91%fortheback.These
resultsindicatethatourfabricwashighlydrapable.Whiletestingthewickingability,
thewatertraveledupthesamplesoffabricanaverageof1.Wefoundthatour
fabricwasnotveryresistanttowater.Theblotterpaperusedtotesttheresistance
increasedinweightbyanaverageof154%.Ourlastsafetytestwasflammability
whichfailedaccordingtothestandards.Allofoursamplesburnedforover30secs
whichresultedinthembeingclassifiedasClassIII:textilethatisunsuitablefor
apparel.
Taber
Totestthedurabilityofourfabrictoteststheresistanceusingapercentagelossin
breakingpointmethodorbasedonendpoint.Escentiallycheckingtoseeifthe
durabilitylevelofthefabriccankeeppacewiththeconsumer.Todothiswetookthe
TaberAbraisorandsetitupfor300cyclesandtheproperweightandsandingrings
forthefabric.Thefirsttimeweranthetesttheringsweretoocoarseanditshreaded
thefabricinthelate80scompletly.Changingthemtoamuchsoftergritprovedtobe
toosoft,onourthirdtrialweendedupwithahappymedium.Betweenourfive
samplesthechangesinfabricweightrangedfrom.7%to1.3%.Withinaverage
weightof4.17attheend.Despiteamediumgritsandingring,thefabricwasstillpretty
easilyworndown.ThiswasaASTMD3884testandispass/failbasedonavisual
inspection.Allsamplestestedwerefailed.
Tear
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TensilMachinewasusedtotesttheElongation,seamstrength,andteartesting.
Therewasnotmuchdifferencebetweentheteartestingresultsvisuallybutonthe
graphthewarpthreadshadahigherrangeofresults,mostlikelyduetothetighter
tensionatwhichfillthreadsperpendicularheldthemtogethermore.Duringthe
elongationtestallresultsrippedalongtheseamlines.Thefabrictearingleavingthe
seamintact.
Colorfastness
AATCC61isthetestforcolorfastnessanditwasdonewith5differentcylinders
washingfabricsamplesandvarioustypesofdetergentsandagitators.Cylinderone:
200mlofwater,.37%detergent,10SteelBalls.Cylindertwo:150mlofwater,.15%
detergent,50steelballs.Cylinderthree:50mlofwater,.15%detergent,100steel
balls.Cylinderfour:10mlofwater,.15%detergent,.015%clorine,100steelballs.
Cylinderfive:150mlofwater,.15%detergent,.027%clorine,50steelballs.Stripsof
fabricsewntomultifiberswatchtotestforcolorfastness.Manyoftheresultsthatcame
backwererated3orworse.Bleedingwasamajorproblemthroughoutthefulltesting
process.
Part6,Paper2
Overall,wefeelthatthetargetcustomerofthisGAPbranddresswouldbesatisfied
withthisproductasitworkswellforitsintendedenduse.GAPbrandscriteriafor
acceptanceonascalefrom1to5isarounda3.5orhigherforpassingandwhenwe
werecompletingtestingforthesetwoGAPbranddresses,weranintotestresultsthat
bothpassedandfailed.Forexample,itfailedwaterrepellency/resistanceaswellas
waterimpactpenetrationwhileithasgoodsnaggingresistanceandgaveavery
drapedappearancewitha19.91%onthefrontanda22.15%ontheback.These
resultsworkwellsincethedressisnotintendedtobeanitemthatisexposedtowater
often,likeanoutdoorrunningjacketwouldbe,anditsaplusthatitdoesnotsnagas
easilyasothergarmentsmightanditsdrapedappearanceachievesthelookthatwas
desiredbythedesignersatGAPbrandwhocreatedit.
Oneissueinparticularwiththisgarmentthatshouldberelookedatandchangedis
colorfastnesstocrocking.Whenrunningboththedryandwettests,wereceivedthe
followingscores:1)Dry1ontheAATCCChromaticScaleanda4.5ontheGray
Scaleand2)Wet1ontheAATCCChromaticScaleanda2.5ontheGrayScale.
TheseresultsproveproblematicastheCinnamonCandyredcolorofthegarment
easilycameoffonthewhitetestcloth,whetheritwasdryorwet,whichmighteffect
thewearerbyhavingthecolorruboffontotheirskin.Thisissueofcolorwasnoticed
pretestingbecausetheredcolorhadturnedthewhitethreadusedtosewonthe
buttonsandthewhitepolyestercarelabelontheinsideofthegarmentpink.
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Itisimportanttonotethatthistestshouldbeconductedafterthegarmenthasbeen
washedtoseeifitstillhasthateffectbuteitherway,whenshippingthisgarmenttoa
storelocation,thisgarmentshouldbewrappedupinawaythatinhibitsitsabilityto
changethecolorofotheritems.Therefore,GAPbrandmaywanttolookintothedye
processtheyusedorthedyesthemselvesinordertolessentheeffectsofthiscolor
change.Theonlyrealdifferenceweranintowhentestingbetweenthewarpandweft
wasduringtheelongationtests,wherestripsoffabricwerepulledatbothwarpand
weftdirection.Theresultswerethattheweftstretchedinaweirdwaywithsome
puckeringwhilethewarpdidnotactthatway.Webelieveitmaybeduetotheway
thefabriciswovenasthewarpandweftaredifferentinnatureandthatthefabricwas
atwillweave.
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