Homemade Motorcycle Parts On A

Budget
-or How To Recycle Useless Junk Into Rare Items And Freak Out Your Neighbors At
The Same Time.

By Lyle Landstrom

Introduction

During my colorful blue collar career where I was laid off, fired, or quit just about every
industrial job known to man I picked up a few skills useful to the vintage motorcyclist. Now
that I have a real job and a family to support, I needed a part time trade to fall back on to
support my motorcycle habit. In the course of working out of my garage to do this, I tried lots
of motorcycle related activities. I tried painting: too much time waiting between coats, can't do
it all year as it's too cold in the winter, needs a clean environment, and most of all, my taste
isn't exactly like anyone else's. I tried wrenching as I have a degree in marine and small
engine mechanics: too committed to time constraints, never enough tools, and everyone's
bike is their baby and needs special treatment. So I decided on limited parts production as it
was perfect for me. I can do the pattern work in the basement with limited woodworking tools.
And I can do the foundry work in the garage. Hot metal doesn't care what the ambient air
temperature is; but most of all, I can do it on MY time.

Man has been sand casting metal for several thousand years. The ancient Chinese had some
of the best bronze castings in the world for any time in history. In what is now Iraq, there were
natural draft iron furnaces with so much production that scientists think it altered the
atmosphere of our planet. There is a mine in France where man has been mining foundry
sand for hundreds of years. It is still considered the best naturally bonded molding sand in the
world.

If primitive man can do it in a primitive environment. Then primitive man can do it in a modern
environment. The purpose of this article is to show how it can be done.

Part Conception

The first thing needed is an idea. For me this usually the easiest. Sometimes I have too many
ideas and nothing gets done. In this case however, I was soliciting the VI list for Sport Scout
Big Base engine case information when Jim Wall responded with a set of factory
blueprints.

After careful scrutiny of these prints I decided the best course of action was to draw them up
in CAD. This was because the originals were hard to read and a CAD program allows
manipulation of the drawing from a pattern makers perspective. I also thought that if there
was enough interest in the cases, then whomever receives a set would need a good drawing
to machine them from.

After the CAD drawing was completed, I decided to pattern up the cam cover first. Jim Wall
suggested making the cover deeper so an extra cam lobe could be accommodated. I decided
to do this as this extra depth could be machined off for a normal cover. This surface needs
machining after casting so it shouldn't be a problem.

Pattern Making

Pattern making is like life. In life you live one day at a time but with a clear goal in mind,

solving each hurdle in steps. In pattern making, you break up a 3-D object into simpler
geometric shapes which are then assembled into the goal - or pattern.

Because metals shrink as the freeze in a mold. Patterns are bigger than the actual part. With
aluminum, this shrinkage factor is usually 1/4" per foot. Or about 2%. Because I had the CAD
drawing finished for the right case which matches surfaces with the cam cover, I mirrored the
cam area of the drawing to give an inside view of the cover. I then plotted it out at 102% of
normal. If I had an actual cover to work from, I could have laid it on a Xerox machine and
copied it at 102%.

This drawing was then transferred, using carbon paper, to the wood pattern material which I
had laminated up the night before. It is usually better to laminate sheets of wood with the
grains in each layer perpendicular to each other to avoid warpage over time, rather to use one
piece of wood at the correct thickness.

The next step was cutting out the perimeter of the pattern. I set the saw at about 2% draft: the
angle needed for a smooth draw from the sand.

I cut out the top surface in a similar manner and sanded it down to the correct thickness on a
belt sander.

While tracing the top of the cover, I located the two cam bushing holes and drilled through the
top so I could register the bosses on the inside surface of the cover. Next the oil pump surface
was traced out from the original cam cover drawing and cut out. The entire assemblage was
done in a similar manner. I had to use the original drawing for the oil pump surface as the
drawing was too illegible to draw in CAD.

Once the entire pattern was glued up, I gave it a coat of polyurethane sealer. The real test of
any product is to use it for an application for which it never was intended. In this case, rather
than buying a 1 gallon - minimum order = $50.00 from a pattern shop product, I used a
product that can be had at any builders supply store for about $5.00. This sealer serves 4
purposes: 1, it seals the wood to prevent moisture from warping it. 2, it strengthens the wood
pattern. 3, it serves as a guide coat when sanding similar to a guide coat when doing
motorcycle painting. 4, it gives a very smooth surface so that the pattern can be easily drawn
from the sand.

Many sealers can be used. I've had bad luck with some enamels because the sand has a
tendency to stick. The polyurethane is also compatible with polyester body filler as used for
auto body and gas tank repair. This is another product similar to products sold by the pattern
industry but costing many times more. This is how the fillets were made on the inside surface
of the pattern. Automotive body filler is also excellent to use in core boxes. It's easier to cut
the box out square and fill the radius in with bondo than to use a gouge to cut out the
wood.

After the initial bondoing and sanding, more coats of polyurethane were applied. I usually
work better at multiple tasks than one so I coated several several patterns at once. Being a
naturally lazy person, I only had to clean the brush once for each coat. After several coats
were applied with 220 grit dry sanding between the pattern was finished.

Not all patterns are made in one piece like the cam cover. In the picture, note that I have
some riser patterns in 2 pieces. This is called a split pattern. I made the wood pattern at a
double shrinkage factor (1 for aluminum, one for brass) which will be cast into a aluminum
master pattern mounted on a match plate. This will enable me to make multiple pieces in one
mold. It's also a lot quicker to produce a mold using this method. The finished risers will be
manganese bronze which is very shiny yellow brass yet high strength.

Off to the Foundry (garage)

Because this is a simple pattern with a parting line on the same plane, a simple flask is
chosen. The pattern is laid on the bottom board, parting dust sprinkled over the top and the
first layer, or lift, of sand applied then rammed with a wood rammer. I use homemade wood
rammers and flasks. The reason is because a pattern can be damaged easier with a metal
rammer and metal flasks are unessessary for all but the most precise molding. Metal flasks
are also very expensive and I've gotten by with homemade equipment so far. The wood flasks
will last for years if you're careful. I use alignment pins to align the top (cope) with the bottom
(drag) part of the flask.

Once several layers of sand are scooped into the flask and rammed, the sand is struck off
level with the top of the flask. It is then rolled over. I like to scratch out the locations of the
gates with a pick so I know where to cut them in on the other half of the mold. I also like to
use a "bob" to locate the sprue (where the metal is poured in). This bob not only helps
register the sprue, but serves as a reservoir of molten material to be drawn in as the metal
shrinks in the mold. This counteracts shrinkage. It also gives a nice surface to ram against
which reduces the possibility of sand "washing out" as metal is poured in. My bobs are made
from the resin plastic left over from patterns when mixed in yogurt containers. The yogurt
container serves as a good bob mold and can be used over and over. Eat yogurt, stay
healthy, and have mixing containers. The other half of the mold is set and parting compound
is dusted over the inside surface. This compound, which can be pretty much any dust, keeps
the sand from sticking from one half of the mold to the other, and from it sticking to the
pattern.

The upper portion of the mold is riddled with sand and rammed in lifts until it is full. It is then
struck off and opened.

The pattern is "rapped" which means wiggled in the sand just a bit and then withdrawn. The
bob is withdrawn and the sprue, riser, and gates are cut in. I like old thin wall plumbing pipe to
cut in my sprue and risers. This same thin pipe costs big bucks at a foundry supply house. So
it pays to cruse the dumps. Some molders use a wood pin which the sand is rammed around
just like a pattern, but this way woks better for me.

The sprue is on the right and the riser is on the left. The riser helps gas escape while pouring
and also supplies metal to the casting as it cools. Usually the sprue needs to be wider than
the thickest section in the casting. The gates are usually at the thick sections as well. There
are some exceptions but this is a good general rule of thumb.

After I get a couple of molds finished, I fire up the crucible furnace. I don't fire it up right away
because if for some reason the molds don't turn out, there's no place to pour the metal. My
homemade ingot molds won't hold an entire melt. I usually ram the last mold while the metal
is melting. Usually it's time to pour when I get the last one rammed.

I don't usually pour more than three molds with one melt because the metal is constantly
cooling once the gas is shut off. Aluminum needs to be poured around 1350 degrees F and it
loses heat rapidly. I check the temperature with a pyrometer. "Eyeballin" by color won't work
with aluminum. My scrap rate went to near nil when I finally got a pyrometer. Pouring too hot
results in gas porosity and a dull finish. Too cold results in a mis-pour where the metal didn't
completely fill the mold and also in a dull finish. Although, these are not the only causes.

I don't stir the aluminum at any time as that creates air entrainment. I don't use flux because
it's unnecessary for aluminum. Many books have been written about aluminum casting
defects. This shouldn't confuse anyone because usually the simplest solution is the best. I
won't delve into this subject any further.

The aluminum is poured into the molds as steadily as possible. You can tell when to start
slowing down by keeping an eye on the riser which is filling up with the melt.

Because this was the first time I had poured this pattern and I was experimenting with
different gates, combined with my overwhelming sense of curiosity, I "shook out" (removed

the casting) from the mold within a few minutes. This is sometimes done in industry as it's a
"poor man's" form of heat treating and there's even a technical word for it.

Don't do this with bronze or brass because the castings are so hot that when you open the
mold the oil in the sand spontaneously ignites with the air and flares up. It takes about 3 - 6
weeks to regrow eyebrows. It was a drag avoiding the bar for that long.

The sand pretty much falls off the castings. The remaining sand that clings can be cleaned off
with a brush. The sand which is burnt needs to be reclaimed in a muller for this type of sand.
Most small scale sand casting is done with "green sand" that is, a sand bound with clay and
water. Because I do most my casting during the winter months, I use an oil binder. The oil
bonded sand is also more permeable which reduces casting defects. It is also not as sensitive
to how hard the mold is rammed. Most of all, I can mold when it's below zero.

I waited until the other castings had cooled down somewhat before shaking them out. From
the pictures you can see that the casting that was shook out while hot is duller. The hotter
aluminum is, the easier it oxidizes. This isn't a problem but for parts which don't require much
finishing it's better to wait until they have cooled down so they look better.

Before I got my molding bench at an auction, I used this sandbox which is where I do all my
shake outs now. I have rammed up hundreds of molds in this little wood box.

After the first castings are completed. I check the fit against the part they are going to fit to. I
have a set of beat up Sport Scout cases and matched them to it. Looks good so far.

One of the problems was because this pattern was made for both double lobe and single lobe
cams. The dimensions of the casting gets smaller as more material is milled off. I had to
compromise to make the pattern fit both cases.

I also cut one casting down the middle to check thickness, machinability, the fillets and so
forth. The sectional view is a good example of the draft on the pattern. This is very important
when designing a pattern.

At this point, I have sent three casting to Jim Wall who will machine them. I might have to
change the pattern a little based on his recommendations. By the time you will read this, I will
have started on the case patterns themselves. Currently I'm patterning the inner primary, a
coil bracket, my riser match plate, and a private job unrelated to motorcycling.

Epilogue

I hope to have shown how foundry and pattern work can be accomplished at home with
simple tools. It is an activity that grows on itself. I have been able to buy or make items as I
need them from the small profits of my garage foundry. There is minimal need for fancy store
bought items.

I have discovered there is a small network of home foundry people. I see the same people
time after time at foundry related auctions. One guy has his little niche doing model railroad
parts, another makes steam engine parts. I've done award plaques in bronze for local football
teams among other stuff. I do a lot of novelty type stuff as well.

I'd like the thank everyone who has helped me along the way. Especially to MJ whom I
consider my friend and who is a way better foundry man that I am. I'd also like to thank the
cops for not carting me off when I added too much zinc to the melt the first time I made brass.
It produced a flourescent green plume that drifted about 4 feet off the ground across the street
into the park. It was quite the effect. I don't know what was in it. But it sure cured my sore
throat.

I'll be more than happy to answer questions to anyone about any items in this article. Stay

tuned for Big Base Cases!

Mirroring the case drawing (below) to get an inside view (above) of the Big Base Scout cam
cover (back to text)

Drawings

Laminating wood

Cutting out pattern


Registering (back to text)

Glued-up pattern

Checking cam cover pattern on drawing

Polyurethane coated patterns. Note riser patterns -and Lyle's taste in paintwork, which I find
rather attractive, but I see what he meant in the introduction... :-) Moen
(back to text)


Pattern, bottoms-up, on bottom board in lower part of flask (drag)

Sprinkled with parting dust

Rammed

Struck off


Rolled over. Note yogurt container "bob" (back to text)

Pattern dusted again, and top part of flask (cope) put on

Sand riddled into cope

Finished ramming

Cope lifted off

Pattern and finished mold

Ready to close for pouring

Man that's hot!


Last mold

Smokin! (back to text)

Dull (hot) shakeout

Shiny (cool) shakeout


Checking new cover against old cases

Currently the patterns are being made in my spare time after work. I
had hoped that I would have at least one half of the cases cast at this
point but I have ran into a few unforseen events which are unrelated to
this project. Although I have made significant progress the last few
weeks.
The pattern methodology can be seen from the pictures. I took the
CAD drawing of the cases and sectioned it into different layers which
are cut out from the wood pattern material and then fit together to
produce the patterns.
The minor details such as fillets, pattern draft and bearing bosses will
be finished by hand after the main assembly is glued together. As you
can see there are 8 main pieces which are sandwiched on one plane
and two other pieces for the cylinder deck areas which are on a
separate planes. The two cylinder deck pieces are each made from
two pieces. I chose this methodology based on the equipment I had
available and previous experience with other patterns. It is easier for
me to make a pattern using this method than to try to turn the major
diameter out on a wood lathe and then fit the remaining pieces onto it's
curved surface.
These pieces are fixtured in a jig to hold them in alignment as the
pattern is assembled. Some of the fillets will be added before the entire
pattern is glued up to facilitate sanding. The jig uses a series of
dowels, on a template which corresponds to various bolt and shaft hole
locations on the cases. The holes for the dowels will be filled in after
the pattern is glued up.

Most of the pieces in the drawings have been cut out. Some are
already glued together. I had help from KaulCraft, a local furniture
manufacturer, for planing and sanding the material to the correct
thickness. If you need mission style furniture, KaulCraft makes the
best. KaulCraft is run by Rev. Kaul, who it turns out, has performed a
lot of ceremonies for the local "biker" community. He was very
receptive to helping me and interested in the project. I am going to
utilize his resources on several other projects.
This wood pattern uses a double shrink factor. Once the pattern is
finished, I will cast an aluminum master pattern from it. An aluminum
master pattern will stand up under hard use, be adaptable to modern
molding equipment and be able to be machined to better dimensional
accuracy than a wood pattern allows. An aluminum pattern also is
easier to withdraw from the sand and will allow a smaller draft angle. In
the unlikely event that the demand gets out of hand for these cases, I
can turn over the wood master pattern to a real foundry and they can
cast any type of molding machine matchplate pattern they want.
Some of the outlines for the pattern layers are common to both right
and left cases. Because of this, pattering the left case will go quicker.
Once both halves are completed, I will send a set to Jim Wall and Rick
Abbott. They will machine them and make recommendations. If Mr.
Abbott is able to write a CNC program and is agreeable to it, we will
solicit the list for orders.
Currently, I have both primaries, mag opening cover, and the cam
cover available in unmachined form. After these case patterns are
finished, I'm going to investigate a four speed transmission case that
will fit Sportster 4 speed gears and kicker. The case will have a
trapdoor similar to the Sportster where the gears can be slid in as an
entire assembly. I need to do some basic investigation first and might
need help from the list. I think this is the best solution for the 4 speed
tranny problem. That is, using highly obtainable transmission gearsets
which can be used in a custom set of cases. My next step after the
transmission housing will be to produce an entire top end. I can either
reproduce the flathead design or modify an existing OHV design. The
foundry and pattern work will be a little different for the top end as I
intend on using core boxes or lost foam casting. Either method I have
only limited experience with. Although investigations and
experimentation are ongoing.
I have subsequently found out that a number of local firms are capable
and willing to do the machining on any of these items. Although these
firms are highly experienced and work for major manufacturers, I would

rather keep as much of this work on the list and money changing out of
the picture.
Until these patterns are finished, I have cut myself off from the
electronic world and the unproductive distractions it offers. At the rate I
am progressing, the right case pattern should be close to finished by
the end of the month.

Big Base Sport Scout engine cases!

New! 11.21.99

This page will follow the development of Lyle Landstrom's new

crankcases.
This project was made possible by the cooperation of the VI mailing
Listers, and is a great example that nothing is impossible, if you've got
someone willing to do a job + a bunch of people willing to support it by
finding the information needed & providing feedback on what they want
in a new product.
Lyle, who has a page about his other castings here on the VI site, had
been looking into making a set of '38 Sport Scout cases into patterns
for casting new ones in his garage foundry. Quickly the focus centered
on which improvements should be incorporated in new cases, and
quite naturally the factory 648 "Big Base" cases came up. As most of
us know these were made for the 1948 Daytona racer in small
quantities (Jerry Hatfield quotes various sources for the number of 50
sets in his books), incorporating many improvements over the earlier
versions.
But where could a set of these mythical beasts be found?
Enter "Fasst" Jim Wall, winner of the 1999 Davenport Vintage races on
his 1928 "Boardtracker". Jim is very much into racing Scouts (in fact
there will shortly be pages on this website, chronicling his building of 2
hot Sport Scout racers!), and he had not only a set of Big Base cases,
but also copies of most of the original factory blueprints for them...
The stage is set for the following to happen over the winter/spring:
Lyle will make patterns for a set of cases, being not true BB replicas,
but incorporating the best design features of them into the format of the
"ordinary" Sport Scout cases. Most of these new cases would be used
for street bikes, and facilities for this should be considered. Lyle is busy
with other things until after December, so please don't expect the
cases right away! (Lyle, being a cautious man, tells me "that the cases
are just a RUMOR until he'll have something to show", but having seen

some of Lyle's other work, I betcha he's going to pull this one off too.
Moen). Still, this is a great start.
The cases will leave Lyle's garage in unmachined form, and machining
up a prototype set for testing before they go on sale is important, but
the idea of a "central" machining deal could be considered. Setting up
tooling for the machining of crankcases is a time consuming and
costly affair, and we could probably all save money by having only one
(or a few) places doing this, rather than each having our "pet
machinist" do it in a hundred localities around the world. While Lyle
would certainly expect to be paid for his work, and while there is no
way (I think?) that we can get the machining done for free, this could
still mean new, stronger cases for your Scout project (-you have one,
don't you? There are too many Chiefs out there! :-) Moen) at affordable
cost. Stay tuned for this angle.
OK, what's so special about Big Base cases? Here's a bunch of
pictures from Jim to whet your appetites. Click on the small pictures
to see full size versions, and click on the big pictures to return
here (or use your browser's "back" button). In all modesty, this is kind
of a (-nother! there goes the modesty...) scoop for the VI website, as all
most of us have ever seen of these cases, is one picture in Jerry
Hatfield's fine books. Thanks again to Jim for the pictures! Moen.
Big Base case to the left, Sport Scout right.

Another view. Note that the major difference in

the mounting points seems to be just the lower

Note fatmain bearing boss.

rear boss; new rear engine plates will solve this.

Close up; BB drive side main bearing boss.

Sport Scout main bearing boss.
Rear view; BB on the left. Look at at that fat
Again BB left; look at the way the lift cavity is
snout for the d/s bearing... Note also shallower moved inwards, and the beefed up mainbearing
area (not partially cut away like the stock cases,

cam case on the BB.

right).
Close up of the BB cam area. Lift cavity moved

Same view of the stock cases.

inwards making cam case shallower.
Drive side cases, BB left. Note sump and
flywheel scraper (and beefy bearing boss).

Cam side view. BB left.

Interior view of BB cam side case. Note how

Same view of stock cases. This is what the

factory gave us to play with instead of what you

nice & fat things are.

see to the left of here....

Warpath Big Base Scout engine

cases!
By: Lyle Landstrom
The real reason for the Big Base engine cases is the same reason that I switched to riding
Indians in the first place. That is, in my opinion, a motorcycle should be a motocycle and not a
two wheeled car. Modern bikes lack the light weight, lines, and most importantly, feel, of bikes
gone by.
Being an Indian and a foundry enthusiast, it was natural that I combine the two. About 5 years
ago I started making parts in my garage. My purpose was to have some "neat" parts that no
one else had. At about the same time, I started trading some of my homemade parts and
foundry services for items I needed. The main goal however, was to make stuff for myself, get
better at my craft, and build my garage up to the point where I could really do something. That
time is now.
The Big Base project started out as a simple inquiry on the Virtual Indian list. I had the
foundation for a Scout project which included a set of wrecked cases. I thought it would be
easier to manufacture a new set rather than repairing my own set. I also thought whatever
cases I made should incorporate some improvements. Hence my inquiry.
Jim Wall responded to my inquiry by sending me a copy of the original factory drawings for
the right case. This was more than anyone could have asked for. I took these drawings and
converted them to CAD so I could manipulate them to facilitate the pattern making. I could
also edit the CAD drawings without destroying the originals.
Within a couple of weeks after my inquiry, the Big Base cases became a project on the Virtual
Indian magazine. At the time I thought I really didn't need the hype as it was a serious project
but the intent was more for my own purposes rather than any group effort with intentions of
mass distribution. Jim sent me the drawing with the understanding that it was a "grassroots"
effort. It is my intention to keep it this way. I am not a big corporation, nor do I intend on
becoming one. I'm "Joe Blow" in a garage. If it was my intent to be making money, I wouldn't
be into manufacturing, I'd be into distribution.
Because of the project listing on the Virtual Indian magazine, several people have responded
with suggestions. Damon Strub had some concerns about the rear motor mounts. This has
since been confirmed. Jim Wall suggested bigger cam bosses for bearings rather than

bushings. My own cases are blown out at the bottom and the front and rear motor mount
areas are broken. All these problems will be fixed with the new cases.
It is not my intention to produce some "fake" cases and rip off the Indian name or cheapen the
few Big Base Scouts in existence. My intention is to build a set of cases that will sustain high
speed high rpm modern Interstate long distance riding. The cases will be similar to, yet
different enough to be noticed, from the originals. I could argue that once these cases are
built, original Big Bases will be worth even more, not less.
Now that this is a ongoing official project, my steps are as follows:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Project Conception
Solicitation of Views
Final Design
Pattern Methodology
Prototype Castings
Prototype Machining
Pattern Adjustments
Final Production Casting
Final Production Machining

All of the steps above will be in house. That is by myself, or members of the list. I've done all
the CAD work and am starting on the patterns. I also plan of doing the foundry work in my
garage with certified 356 aluminum. I'll then send the castings out for heat treating. Jim Wall
has agreed to machine the first set of cases. This is no small effort on his part.
At this time Jim Wall has been sent 3 prototype cam covers. The covers utilize the cast
aluminum oil pump and also are deeper for double lobe cams. If regular cams are chosen, the
extra material can be machined off. Jim is in the process of doing the prototype machining on
these covers. The pattern making and casting is covered in another article in this month's
magazine. Although the cam cover article was written from a lighthearted perspective and
was a sort of "bang up" job, I can assure you, the Big Base Project is serious business. I have
invested too many hours at this point to quit or do a half ass job. The drawings Jim sent me
are much more readable than the cam cover drawing I had to work with for the cover pattern.
There will be less "slop" in the case patterns.
Moen asked me to write this short item concerning the Big Base Project. This also serves the
purpose of answering questions and dispelling rumors that might be out there. I'll keep Moen
posted as to the progress of the patterns and subsequent castings. My regular job is going to
get busy as the construction season is about a month away and I'm going be working long
hours. When this starts I'll need to quit the list as I cannot handle the long working hours
combined with a hundred email messages a day. I'll need my off time to complete the
patterns. The patterns will take a good month per side of part time work to complete. Although
some operations for either side will be simultaneous.
I would like to thank everyone for their questions regarding these cases. Once the patterns
are complete and the first few are machined, We'll take a step back and see where it goes
from there. It is my intention to trade raw castings for whatever. But if there is enough
demand, I might see if there's a CNC shop that will undertake a batch of them. As far as the
casting, I can handle whatever demand there might be. This is not a corporate effort, yet
materials, heat treating, and machining do cost money.

CAD

Here's the original VI article on the Big Base cases (use your browser's "back" button to get
back here)
Related Articles in the April VI:

DIY Casting & Pattern Making

The Four Cam System
Tall Fin racing heads

Cam cover.


Prototype cam cover ready for machining.

The 4-Cam System.

By Jim Wall

During Indians last fling a small batch of 4 cam big base racing Scout where put together by
Dick Gross and ridden to success by Bobby Hill. The 4 cam machines where a system that
included the whole machine.

The chassis was based on the 648 style factory racer but was retubed with thin wall
chromemolly tubing and further lightened by drilling holes in various locations and plugging
the holes with aluminum slugs. Aluminum fork links as well as motor plates where used.
Gross painted everything on his machines to disguise what he had done. The handlebars
risers where from the vertical Scouts and mounted with an aluminum plate to the fork
crown.

Light weight machine oil was used in the hubs to cut rolling resistance as well as 10 weight oil
in the primary and transmission. The front wheel was a simple hub and the rear wheel carried
a sprocket to keep weight down. In talking with the son of the Indian dealer here in Denver he
says he can recall seeing Hill at a race in Kansas. He recalls Bobby spinning the rear wheel
as the machine was on a stand and that he and his father could not believe how long the
wheel kept spinning on its own. The tanks where the factory narrowed 648 tanks, and the
machine used a tachometer driven off the front cam, the tach was from a Norton. The saddle
was from a Harley KR.

The motor was unique in that it still had the two camshafts, but each shaft had two cam lobes,
one for the intake valve and one for the exhaust. This required a thicker cam cover in order to
accommodate the extra cam gear. It also required a different exhaust valve lift, lift shafts,
cam shaft shafts and pinion gear arrangement.
The set up essential used a factory cam to which Grosses own unique cam lobe was pinned.
I've seen one set up where he was using a factory Savannah came run backwards with his
own lobe pinned to it. He used a factory Bonneville lift with a spacer brazed to the side of it at
one point. He also hand made his own lifts with different center to center lengths.

The cases where big base with ball bearings everywhere, and with a steel sleeve pressed in
to the drive side to carry the ball bearings. He also
machined steel cups and pressed them in to the cases to carry the ball bearings for the
camshafts.
The cylinders used a 1/8 over sized inlet nipple brazed in to the cylinder. They also had a 1/8
over intake valve. The exhaust valve was the standard size. They used the m-53 1 1/2 HD
carb with the bombsight venturi.

Ignition was by magneto. The oil delivery to the motor was adjusted by pressing a drilled
orifice in to the back of the aluminum oil pump directly in front of the pinion shaft. Different
sized holes where used. All in all it must have worked well as they sure did run.

Lyle has cast up some of the deeper covers for use with the aluminum pump. They have to be
machined. I have bits and pieces of one of the 4 cam motors, cases, oil pumps, one half of
two different cam set. The missing bits, outside of the valve lifts, will be easy to do. At that
point there will be a four cammer running again in addition to the two that already are.

Timing chest of the 4-cammer

Drive side bearing housing

Drive side housing, external

Nut for bearing housing, the way Gross did 'em

Oil pump with provisions for tach drive

Gross pump left, Daytona under-seat oil tank pump right

Tachometer drive

Cam covers; iron pump left, Big Base center, Lyle's art right

Stock BB left, Lyle's magic right

BB cylinders left; notice the #s face towards the drive side of the cases rather than the V

Big intake nipple left, stock right

Sport Scout Racing Heads.

By Jim Wall

These heads are the early straight fin style "tall fin" racing heads as seen in Jerry Hatfield's
Illustrated Buyers' Guide page 65.
The pattern assembly is at a local foundry at this moment. They will repair the actual patterns
as needed and do a mold at that point. We will then inspect the mold and make a decision as
to tune the mold up further or proceed with castings.

The castings will be of a 356 t-6 form when done. I have no idea as to cost yet but do not
expect to retire from this project either. The foundry owner seems to be very enthusiastic
about this project. He walked me through his entire operation from start to finish, kind of fun. I
will keep the group posted as things proceed.

At this point I have recorded interests for 7 sets of heads, not including myself or others that
are not wired.
If you are seriously interested in a set of these heads, please get in touch with me at this
email address: fasstjim@aol.com or order a set on the VI Buyers' Club page!
.