Living France - July 2015 UK

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JULY 2015
IN
completefrance.com
LoireAtlantique
Is it for you?
MARAIS
POITEVIN
Letting out gtes

in Frances green
paradise
199,000
Jazz in Provence
Buy a Limousin
farmhouse with land
Why music and wine are a

way of life for one expat
LEARNING FRENCH
Issue 289 July 2015 3.99
REVEALED
Read our how-to guide to mastering the language
REAL LIFE
PROPER T Y
PLACES
ADVICE
LIFEST YLE
LANGUAGE
INSIDER INFO
editors letter
Spoilt for choice
PLAGE DE LA BAULE LAD / C. MENES
hen it comes to planning where to

spend your life in France, theres no
denying the delight of choosing from
the countrys charms for many,
living by the water has held a perennial appeal,
be it close to the sea, river, lake or otherwise.
With that in mind, this month we take a closer
look at Loire-Atlantique (the clues in the
name!), home to beautiful beaches and
characterful coastal villages, not to mention
Nantes, its creative and dynamic capital city (page
20). Further inland, in the picturesque Marais
Poitevin marshes, we visit B&B and gte owners
in this green corner of France (page 34).
If you prefer the backdrop of vineyards,
Provence provides no end of opportunities for
inspiration one expat was so moved by the area
that he brought together his love of jazz and wine
in a now-annual festival (page 46). Plus, our pick
of properties this month (page 16) is for those of
you looking for

land, and includes a
tempting 199,000
Limousin
farmhouse.
Theres insider advice aplenty
too, with our learning French round-up (page
40), while our experts answer your
questions (page 64).
I hope you enjoy this issue. If youd like to let us
know what you think, join us on Twitter
(@LivingFrance) and Facebook (www.facebook.
com/livingfrancemagazine), or write to us at the
address overleaf.
Have a wonderful July,
Eve Middleton, Editor
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CO N T R I B U TO R S
Anna McKittrick
Solange Hando
As former Living France deputy and later,

homes editor, Anna is well-versed in all things
French. This month she returns to familiar
territory for our La Maison section turn to
page 50 for her interview with expat owners of
the stylish Mze Maison chambres dhtes.
Born in France, Solange often returns to the

country to visit relatives and research
features. For this issue she travelled to the
Pays de la Loire region to bring us an
overview of Loire-Atlantique. Turn to page 20
to read her guide to the department.
4 Living France July 2015
Stephanie Sheldrake
Living Frances assistant editor, Stephanie has
been a Francophile since she went on a family
holiday to Arcachon when she was a teenager.
On page 34 she talks to an expat couple about
setting up a gte and B&B business in the
beautiful Marais Poitevin.
completefrance.com
Contents
JULY 2015
34
Loire-Atlantique living
Loire-Atlantique
living
20 JEWEL OF THE LOIRE
Cover story With its sweeping sandy beaches,

pretty coastal towns and the vibrant city of
Nantes, Loire-Atlantique is a breath of fresh air
28 RUN OF THE MILL

Find out how a Franco-Irish couple turned a
riverside property with 30 acres of land into
a rewarding gte and B&B business
32 ASK THE AGENT

A property expert covering Loire-Atlantique
talks shop
33 WHAT CAN I GET FOR

MY MONEY?
Our selection of properties in Loire-Atlantique

to suit all budgets
On the cover
This month Marais Poitevin

Lionel LOURDEL / Getty
20
ISSUE 289
Marais Poitevin
gte business
Learning French
40
Features
Dcouvrez...
Cover story Marylyn and Anthony Kusmirek

reveal how they made a success of their gte
business in the Marais Poitevin
We bring you a round-up of the main events and

festivals taking place in France this July, as well as
travel news, book releases and a reader giveaway
34 A GREEN DREAM
40 LEARNING THE LINGO

Cover story Discover how to improve
your French, from residential courses to
online lessons with Skype
46 ALL THAT JAZZ
Cover story Expat Fred Stephenson reveals

how he combines his love of music and wine
8 JULY IN FRANCE
14 OUR DREAM PROPERTY

Emma Rawle explains why a Breton house in
Ctes-dArmor is her dream buy
16 WHATS ON THE MARKET

Cover story This month, we select a variety of
properties with land, including a Limousin
farmhouse for 199,000
la maison
50 TIME OUT
One expat couple reveal why running a

boutique chambres dhtes in Hrault has
brought them a more relaxed pace of life
54 FLAVOURS OF FRANCE
Louise Pickford gives her recipe for cheese
souffl, with Matt Walls wines to match
FREE! car kit

when you
RIBE
SUBSeeSpC
age 58
56 AVANT GARDENING
The gardens of Chteau de la Napoule on the
Riviera, plus an expats garden in Calvados
completefrance.com
Calvados
PAGE 57
Paris
PAGE 10
Loire-Atlantique
PAGE 20
Marais
Poitevin
PAGE 34
Loire Valley
PAGE 40
Limousin
PAGE 16
Provence
PAGE 46
Hrault
PAGE 50
WIN!
46 Jazz in Provence
Best-selling P
a
novel on ris
page 13
Les pratiques
Language
60 PROPERTY AND
76 DRIVE TO SUCCEED
The latest from the property market, including

a pick-up in sales of new-build properties, plus
a currency update
78 FIVE MINUTE FRENCH
CURRENCY NEWS
62 THREE OF A KIND
We select three new-build properties from

across France, from apartments to villas
64 ASK THE EXPERTS
Cover story Our experts answer your

questions, including long-term property rental,
buying a house with land and a PACS query
66 RENTING OUT LAND
Jean-Paul Vovor explains the legal implications

of renting out your spare land
68 WARM WELCOME
Glynis Shaw gives her advice for those wanting

to rent out their holiday home
Sylvie Wheatley shares the vocabulary relating

to taking a driving test in France
Test your French with our puzzles and

complete the prize crossword
Regulars
18 POSTBAG
Your views on life across the Channel
83 PROPERTY DIRECTORY
A guide to the buying process, plus properties

for sale and to let in France
54 ofFlaFravoursnce
98 LA MOD
In his column this month, Ian Moore makes a

mid-life crisis purchase
70 GUIDE TO THE
DRIVING TEST
This month, Kate McNally explains the process

of passing your driving test in France
completefrance.com
dream
property
14Our
DCOUVREZ
MATTEO COLOMBO / AWL-IMAGES.COM
July in France
The medieval cit of Carcassonne is a delight to visit at any time of year, but especially
during the summer months, when two key events take place. The Festival de
Carcassonne (6 July to 1 August) celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, with some 100
performances ranging from circus events through to classical concerts. And, if youre in
the area on 14 July for Frances Fte Nationale, dont miss the impressive firework display
over Carcassonnes historic ramparts. Last year, around 700,000 people gathered on the
banks of the River Aude at the foot of the cit to see the skies light up in celebration.
www.tourism-carcassonne.co.uk
DCOUVREZ
News & events
France comes to life in July with numerous festivals and events, including Bastille Day, taking
place. Emma Rawle brings together this months key dates, book releases and travel news
FESTIVAL FEVER
Pride of Breton
The worlds a stage
town during the annual Festival dAvignon
in its 92nd year, the festival takes place from
(pictured above, top right). Taking place from
star Jamie Cullum, American jazz group Kool
21-26 July, with a varied programme of events
4-25 July, and expected to attract more than
and the Gang, and free performances by the
encompassing performances and concerts of
150,000 visitors, the festival is a cultural
London Community Gospel Choir. Running
Breton music, including a competition to find
highlight of the summer with performances
from 7-12 July, the concerts take place on
the best bagado (bagpipe) players, traditional
in iconic locations such as the court of the
stages in Place Massna (pictured above) and
Breton costumes and dancers, and a Sunday
Palais des Papes. The festival began in 1947
at the Thtre de Verdure, both in the city
parade through the historic town to round off
with a performance of Shakespeares play
centre, and there are several performances
proceedings. And, of course, there are plenty of
Richard II arranged by Jean Vilar, and now
each day. Tickets cost 35 per day for adults
opportunities to try the local food and drink,
features a range of genres including music,
which gives access to both stages, while
especially the famous Breton crpes.
theatre, dance and literature.
some concerts are free.
www.festival-cornouaille.com
www.festival-avignon.com
www.nicejazzfestival.fr
culture are celebrated during the annual

Festival de Cornouaille held in the town
of Quimper in Finistre (pictured above). Now
Jazz it up
The many and varied aspects of Breton
During July, Avignon is transformed

into an open-air theatre with
performances being staged across the
One of the oldest jazz festivals in

Europe, Nice Jazz Festival attracts big
international names to the French
Riviera. The line-up this year includes British
GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY
To mark the 50th anniversary of the death of architect Le
Corbusier, the Centre Pompidou in Paris is holding an
exhibition of his work entitled Le Corbusier: Mesures de
lhomme, open until 3 August. Although born in Switzerland, Le
Corbusier became a French citizen in 1930, and designed a number of
iconic buildings in France including Chapelle Notre-Dame du Haut in
Ronchamp and Villa Savoye in Paris (pictured right).
www.centrepompidou.fr
completefrance.com
LIGHT IT UP
Sound and light shows illuminate many
iconic buildings in France during the
summer months. Here are just
three happening in July
Sound of summer
Set in the pretty town of La Rochelle in Poitou-Charentes, Les Francofolies music festival brings together young,
upcoming acts with household names from across all musical styles for an eclectic annual event, running this year
from 10-14 July. There are more than 250 concerts in eight different venues and many of the concerts are free,
making this the perfect time to visit La Rochelle and soak up the festival atmosphere.
www.francofolies.fr
Artistic Arles
SON ET LUMIRE
Every evening from 4 April until 20
September, the grand faade of the
Chteau Royal de Blois in the
Loire Valley forms the backdrop to a tale
of love, drama and mystery told
through sound and lighting effects. Adult
tickets cost 8.
www.chateaudeblois.fr
The popular Rencontres dArles international

photography festival, welcomed some 96,000
visitors in 2013. This year the festival takes
place from 6 July until 20 September, with
exhibitions held in various heritage
sites in and around the historic town in
Bouches-du-Rhne. Some of the venues, for
example 12th-century chapels or 19thcentury industrial buildings, are only
FESTIVAL DE CORNOUAILLE; VALRIE BISET / COLL. CDT VAUCLUSE; CRT RIVIERA CTE DAZUR / PIERRE BEHAR;
CENTRE POMPIDOU / GUY CARRAD; LEOTY; D. LPISSIER; DREAMSTIME; VILLE DU MANS / GILLES MOUSS
open to the public

for the duration of
VIVE LA FRANCE!
the festival. A
It goes without saying that Bastille Day, or the
number of
Fte Nationale de 14 Juillet, as it is known in
up-and-coming
France, is a key date across the Channel. The date
photographers have
marks the storming of the Bastille prison in Paris
been discovered as a
in 1789, which signalled the beginning of the
result of the event.
French Revolution, and is celebrated with
www.rencontres-
fireworks across the country, while Paris marks
arles.com
the occasion with a spectacular military parade.
DES FLAMMES
LA LUMIRE
Every Friday and Saturday evening from
18 June until 25 July sees a sound and
light show take place at Carrires
dHaudainville to recreate the Battle of
Verdun, one of the most infamous battles
of the First World War that cost over
300,000 lives. Adult tickets cost 20.
www.spectacle-verdun.com
Turn back time

Transport yourself back to the
Middle Ages this summer at the
Ftes Mdivales du Grand
Fauconnier, a medieval festival in
the picturesque hilltop village of
Cordes-sur-Ciel in Tarn from 13-14
LA NUIT DES CHIMRES
July. The whole community gets involved with
At nightfall, from 2 July until 1

September, the monuments of Le Mans
are transformed with colourful light
projections. The venues vary from the
ramparts of the cit buildings (pictured
above) to the pavements throughout the
Plantagenet town. Entry is free.
www.nuitdeschimeres.com
villagers taking part in medieval dress, while the

streets are taken over by jugglers, musicians,
troubadours and theatrical performances. There
are many typically medieval spectacles including
falconry, fire shows, and demonstrations of
basket-weaving and bronze-smelting. On the
evening of 13 July, a medieval banquet and dance
will take place in the market square.
www.grandfauconnier.com
completefrance.com
DCOUVREZ
ROCK ON
Frances answer to Glastonbury

Festival, the Vieilles Charrues music festival,
takes place in Carhaix in Finistre, Brittany from
16-19 July. Literally meaning old ploughs,
Vieilles Charrues boasts a varied line-up
appealing to a broad mix of music tastes.
Among those performing this year are Muse,
Tom Jones, Lionel Richie, Damon Albarn, Joan
Baez, The Prodigy and The
Chemical Brothers.
www.vieillescharrues.asso.fr
Cave paintings
Located in Ardche, the Grotte ChauvetPont dArc contains the earliest and arguably
the best-preserved prehistoric paintings in
April. Visitors are guided through the replica
the world. Designated a UNESCO World
cave, which has the same temperature,
Heritage Site in 2014, the cave is of great
smells and humidity as the original cave,
historical importance and now members
and then to the Discovery Centre where
of the public can marvel at the drawings of
they can learn about the prehistoric artists
mammoths, rhino, bison and others at the
and their way of life.
replica cave, which opened alongside in
www.ardeche-guide.com
POSITIVELY
MEDIEVAL
*ACCORDING TO WWW.BRITANNICA.COM GUILLAUME LE ROY / CRTB; MINISTERIE DE LA CULTURE; OT BAYEAUX INTERCOM; VIRGINIE
MEIGN; CALVADOS TOURISME; VILLE DE BAYEUX; VIRGINIE MEIGN / VILLE DE BAYEUX; A.S.O.
Famous for its iconic tapestry, the town of

Bayeux in Normandy celebrates its history
with the Ftes Mdivales de Bayeux,
taking place this year on 4-5 July and based
on the theme jugglers, poets and
troubadours. Expect plenty of medieval
entertainment, as well as the popular
market around the cathedral, and the
grand parade on the Sunday.
www.bayeux-bessin-tourisme.com
Paris to Provence
Those who enjoyed Elizabeth Bards first book Lunch in Paris

will love her second offering Picnic in Provence. New Yorker
Elizabeth is happily living in Paris with her French husband
Gwendal with their first child on the way. But then a holiday
to a small village in Provence ends with the couple buying a
house, moving south and opening an ice cream shop. Bard
documents their new life, along with recipes, in this funny

and insightful memoir that will make you want to up sticks to
the south of France too.
Picnic in Provence, Elizabeth Bard
8.99, Summersdale Publishers Ltd
www.summersdale.com
completefrance.com
july news and events
Travel news
POPULARITY CONTEST
In order to meet demand, regional
airline Flybe has increased the frequency of
flights on its route from London Southend
to Caen in Normandy for the peak summer
season. From 11 July until 29 August the
airline will operate six flights a week, flying
every day except Wednesdays. The flights
will be operated
by Stobart Air
and prices start at
41.18 one-way,
per person.
www.flybe.com
PASSPORT CONTROL
All geared up
July in France means the return of the Tour de France, bringing with it a wave of cycling
enthusiasm across the nation. Beginning on 4 July with an individual time trial in Utrecht in the
Netherlands, the cyclists will cover much of northern France from Arras to
Vannes, and then head south to the testing mountain stages in the Pyrenees
and the Alps. The race will finish with the traditional sprint along the
Champs-lyses on 26 July. One of the most difficult climbs in the race is the
Alpe dHuez stage, where riders have often won and lost the race. Veteran
cycling journalist Peter Cossins explores the history of the le Tour and the
mountain in his new book Alpe dHuez: Cyclings Greatest Climb.
www.letour.fr
Alpe dHuez: Cyclings Greatest Climb, Peter Cossins, 16.99, Aurum Press
In an effort to tighten immigration

policy, the UK government has introduced
exit checks at all border crossings and
ports. Transport staff are now recording
details of all passengers leaving the UK by
commercial air, sea and rail routes.
Passports will be scanned and checked
and, by the end of June, all will be verified.
This was expected to cause delays at
cross-Channel ferry ports, on the Eurostar
and Eurotunnel, but at the time of going to
press there had been minimal disruption.
TIME-SAVER
DID YOU KNOW?

The number of prisoners in the
Bastille prison when it was
stormed on 14 July 1789*
AFFAIRS OF THE HEART

An international bestseller, The Little Paris Bookshop tells the story of Jean
Perdu, owner of The Literary Apothecary, a bookshop housed on a beautifully
restored barge on the River Seine in Paris. But this is no ordinary bookshop, as
Perdu seems to possess a gift of being able to sense which books will soothe
the troubled souls of his customers. However, he has never been able to cure
his own troubled heart, broken 21 years ago when the love of his
life fled the French capital. The arrival of a new neighbour inspires him
to unmoor the bookshop and set off for Provence in search of the
past, with an eccentric collection of guests for company.
WIN!
WIN! We have five copies of The Little Paris Bookshop to give away.
For a chance to win visit www.completefrance.com/communityforum The closing date is 3 July 2015.
The Little Paris Bookshop, Nina George, translated by Simon Pare
12.99, Little, Brown Book Group www.littlebrown.co.uk
completefrance.com
Passengers on public transport

from Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris to
the city centre will now find their journey
times reduced, thanks to the opening of a
new express lane on the A1 autoroute for
buses and taxis. If you are planning to
travel by bus then a new shuttle service,
operated by easyBus, has started from
Terminal 2 to the Palais Royal/Louvre,
running around 80 buses a day at low-cost
prices. A high-speed train link from the
airport to the centre is also currently under
way, and is set to open in 2023.
www.easybus.co.uk
SAFETY FIRST
A ban on using hands-free mobile
phone sets in vehicles in France will come
into effect on 30 June as part of the
governments efforts to reduce the
number of road deaths. The ban includes
any hands-free set that requires an
earpiece or headphones, including
Bluetooth headphones, although sets that
connect to the car or phone speaker
system are permitted. The reasoning
behind the measure is that the sets
prevent drivers from hearing what is
happening outside their vehicle.
DCOUVREZ
Dream property...
Every so often we come across a French property that

knocks us for six. This month, Emma Rawle discovers
this traditional Breton house in Ctes-dArmor
ON THE
MA R K E T F O
799,000 R
eing a sun seeker, I often
current owners have enjoyed the property for
hectares of land which includes two large
focus on the south of France
nearly 20 years and have carefully renovated
woods, two meadows, an orchard, a lake and
when indulging in some
the interior to make the most of the authentic
several ponds creating a haven for wildlife,
speculative house hunting,
features, including a 19th-century well, a
including deer, foxes, badgers and owls.
which can mean the charms
giant Breton fireplace and exposed stone and
One of the advantages of buying a
of northern France get overlooked. Brittany
beams. Now, it combines traditional charm
property in Brittany is its close proximity to
in particular offers the beaches and sunshine
with modern living, especially the kitchen
the UK, meaning it is simple to return to
I crave although cooler, this northern region
with has all modern appliances, granite
Britain, or for friends and family to visit. This
still has a characterful feel that draws buyers
worktops and underfloor heating.
property is less than a 90-minute drive from
from across the Channel.

So, I decided to take a look at what I had
been missing and discovered this stunning
property in Boquero in Ctes-dArmor. The
There are five bedrooms in the main
the ferry port of Saint-Malo and also only 15
house and there is also a two-bedroom gte
minutes from the coast, making trips to the
which could provide a regular income.
seaside a definite possibility.
The house is set on more than five
www.lefretay.co.uk
completefrance.com
DCOUVREZ
Properties with land
Theres no shortage of land in France, so whether you fancy a small plot to grow vegetables
in, or acres of parkland to stroll round, take a look at our pick of the best
230,000
235,000
Pyrnes-Orientales, Languedoc-Roussillon
Charente, Poitou-Charentes
This traditionally-built property is located on the edge of a quiet

village just 30 minutes from Perpignan. It has a mature garden, sunny
patio and private parking. There are three bedrooms and two
bathrooms, and the house enjoys panoramic views.
Agent: Artaxa Immo SARL www.artaxa.com
Land is in plentiful supply with this property there are nearly 10 hectares
in total, including a number of large outbuildings. Located in a hamlet in
the countryside but near the village of Champagne-Mouton with
amenities, the house was a former farmstead and has four bedrooms.
Agent: TIC Ruffec www.tic-ruffec.com
265,000
375,000
Morbihan, Brittany
Ctes-dArmor, Brittany
This house sits in more than one hectare of well-maintained gardens,

which include an established vegetable plot, and overlook a lake. Only
a five-minute drive from the nearest town, the house has four double
bedrooms and a wine cellar, plus parking for two cars.
Agent: Agence Newton www.agencenewton.com
In the heart of the countryside, this manor house has close to nine
acres of land a mixture of fields and woodland along with two
barns, two riding stables and kennels. The property was built in the
18th century and has been renovated to offer five bedrooms.
Agent: JB French Houses www.jbfrenchhouses.co.uk
407,000
535,000
Hrault, Languedoc-Roussillon
Haute-Savoie, Rhne-Alpes
Next to the River Orb and a few minutes walk from the Plus Beau
Village of Orlagues, this single-storey villa boasts two bedrooms and
more than two acres of land. There is space to build a swimming
pool and stables that could be converted into gtes.
Agent: Freddy Rueda SARL www.realestatelanguedoc.com
This farmhouse has been partly renovated and split into apartments.
There is a one-bedroom apartment at garden level, a three-bedroom
apartment on the first floor and three further bedrooms on the ground
floor. The house has 2,500m2 of land and an orchard.
Agent: Pastures Greener www.pasturesgreener.net
completefrance.com
whats on the market
Properties of the month

BARGAIN
BUY
199,000
Haute-Vienne, Limousin
This pretty farmhouse property sits on the edge of the Parc Naturel
Regional Prigord Limousin and has half an acre of mature gardens.
The characterful three-bedroom farmhouse boasts exposed beams,
alongside an additional two-bedroom gte.
Agent: France Property Shop www.francepropertyshop.com
SPLASH
OUT
950,000
Dordogne, Aquitaine
Located near Riberac, this stunning chteau sits in 35 acres of fenced
fields and woodland. There are six bedrooms in the chteau, two
three-bedroom apartments and a two-bedroom house. The grounds
also comprise a pool with pool house and a crazy golf course.
Agent: France Property Shop www.francepropertyshop.com
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From our market-leading
French property website
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essential guide to buying
property in France. Regularly
updated with new properties
added each week, there are
thousands to choose from, all
usefully listed by region to help
you narrow down your search.
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Peter Saxon @PbSaxon

This PM I am helping behind the bar
at the village charity bingo. Need a
drink before I start, the old ladies
take no prisoners! #France
Many years ago while touring in
STAR
LET TER
Dave Flitcroft @VeloDave
our camping-car, we visited the

Var and fell in love with the
Every time I see pro riders racing in

rain I realise how tough they are. I
hate riding in the rain. I moved
country to avoid it.
area, especially the village of

La Garde-Freinet (pictured).
We loved it so much that we
returned, staying in a rented villa
Perchoir des Paons @leperchoir
for my 40th birthday, which we

celebrated with a meal on the beach at
Pampelonne in the glorious sunshine, which is
unusual for my birthday at the end of
September. We even gave our daughter the
a two-acre former vineyard inhabited by wild
middle name of Freinet.
boar and wild tortoise about 20km away in the
We always hoped to buy a second home in

France when I retired, but after a series of
operations on my back, I retired at just 44 so we
national park, an unexpected bonus that one
Jean Brookes @frenchholiday
day maybe we will do something with.
The asparagus season has started.

Local Parcay asparagus available
from the village epicerie now.
Work on the house (all by local tradesmen)
decided to take the plunge and booked a trip in
was completed by September and we now feel
January 2013 to view some houses.
part of the village, visiting as often as we can.
We had drawn up a list of houses to view
We love our village, only 15 minutes from
and one place in particular that my wife Moira
the coast and Saint-Tropez, but so tranquil
favoured was not really on my list, but I agreed
being located in the hills, surrounded by forest.
to have a look to keep her quiet.

As we walked through the door,
You can still rub shoulders with the rich and

blend in with the locals and tourists looking for
us; a tiny 300-year-old, three-room, three-
a more peaceful holiday.
Located just off the main street, and in need
I would recommend anyone visiting the area

to schedule a stop, grab a coffee and a wander
of a lot of modernisation, we put in an offer and
through the streets of La Garde-Freinet.
were back collecting the keys by April.
James Parman
We also found that included in the sale was
our more-than-capable staff look after the
After many enjoyable visits to France on
business. The plan is that we will commute
holiday, my wife and I have decided that we
back to the UK periodically to keep an eye on
are going to make the move permanently in
things and stay in touch with the office via
the next few years.
email and Skype, etc.
UK, so we are going to retire to Brittany and let
One more sleep until we travel to

@Bordeaux. Off scouting for a
location to relocate to.
ABC...bourgogne
@abcbourgogne
Our new fosse septique is installed
tomorrow great news we can
welcome guests to our gite earlier
than we thought!
Gainsborough, Lincolnshire
Making the move
We own a medium-sized business in the
Studio Faire @studiofaire
famous, who come to escape the crowds and
immediately we both knew it was the one for

storey village house.
With temperatures up to 29 today,

we may need to get ready for our
summer guests sooner than we
thought...
We are now investigating the financial/legal

implications and keeping our eye on the
property market. We have friends in France to
help us with the local side of things and by the
WIN!
The writer of our Star Letter

this issue wins a Surprise
Box worth 29 containing
a surprise selection of five to
seven traditional French products
courtesy of Bonjour French Food.
For more information on the full range
of hampers available visit
www.bonjourfrenchfood.com
time we leave for our dream life, we will have

GILLES LARBI / CRT BRETAGNE
improved our language skills.

It wasnt difficult to make the decision, the
lifestyle in that part of France is perfect for us,
but it will be quite daunting to make the actual
move. Onwards and upwards though. As Del
Boy would say, he who dares wins.
Simon Richie
If you have something youd like to share, from anecdotes to holiday snaps, drop us a
line at letters@livingfrance.com or to The Letters Editor, Living France, Archant House,
Oriel Road, Cheltenham, GL50 1BB
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YOUR PHOTOS
Email us your photos of France (with captions) to pictures@livingfrance.com
BEAULIEU-SUR-DORDOGNE
THE MAIRIE IN BLOOM
CATCHING SOME RAYS
Corrze Alison Wedley
Jarnac, Charente Joanna Hinds
Dordogne Cheryl Johns
TRETAT
14TH-CENTURY BRIDGE
THE GREAT ORION NEBULA
Seine-Maritime Ami Robinson
Montmorillon, Vienne Rick Vaughan
Taken from Confolens, Charente Andrew Davies
completefrance.com
THE JEWEL
OFTHE LOIRE
With beautiful beaches and rolling countryside, as well as a fascinating
history and rich cultural heritage, Loire-Atlantique is a department to
discover, says Solange Hando
LEROY FRANCIS / HEMIS.FR
XXXXXXXXXXXXX
oire-Atlantique is a fitting name for the
sparkling fountain, and Place Graslin with its neo-classical
department where the longest river in France
theatre, are superb examples of this golden age, alongside
finally reaches the ocean. Set in the west of
the stylish shopping arcade of Passage Pommeraye, which is
the Pays de la Loire region, it is laced with
graced by Renaissance-style muses. Perhaps they still
rivers, meadows and wetlands, fringed by an
dream of the Venice of the West when many waterways
Atlantic shore festooned with sweeping sands and secluded
criss-crossed the town; only later to be filled in to prevent
creeks. Here the sun sets over the ocean and Brittany is just
health hazards and floods.
on the doorstep. Manyt residents claim to be Breton,
Here the River Loire is as majestic as ever, joined by the
especially north of the estuary, and sometimes you can spot
River Erdre from the north and the River Svre Nantaise
the black and white Breton flag fluttering along the lanes.
from the south. The Navibus boat service sails across to
Loire-Atlantique is home to Nantes, the sixth largest city
Trentemoult, a former fishing village, which has retained
in France, the Chteau des Ducs de Bretagne holds centre
much of its rustic colourful charm. This is a great place to
stage. Built in the 15th century as a residence for the court
enjoy a seafood platter and a glass of wine while gazing at
and fortress against French troops, it is haunted by tales of
the alluring cityscape across the water. Nantes is a pristine
Anne de Bretagne, the young Duchess of Brittany and
city proud of its eco-friendly trams, and gardens and parks
patron of the arts, who was coerced into marrying two
rich in camellias, magnolias and exotic plants brought back
successive French kings. Brittany lost its independence in
by sailors of yore. Its charms continue to attract newcomers:
1532 and, together with the tomb of the last duke in the
I come from West Yorkshire, says Lucy Clarke
cathedral, the castle is living proof of Nantes past.
(left), and I wanted a year out. I chose
The old town has traditional shops and a few halftimbered buildings, but you soon reach the 18th- and
Loire-Atlantique because I found work as an au

pair in Nantes and I could bring my horse. It
19th-century dwellings built on the maritime and slave
turned out to be a great choice. Nantes is so dynamic; its a
trade, which are acknowledged in a moving riverside
good-sized city and close to the beach. After a year, I didnt
memorial. The elegant Feydeau district, Place Royale and its
want to leave so I trained to be an English teacher. I think
completefrance.com
loire-atlantique
Nantes is a pristine
city proud of its ecofriendly trams, and
gardens and parks
this will be a fantastic place to bring up a

family one day.
On a sunny caf-terrace in the city centre,
theres much going on under the watchful eye
where the rooftop bar, Le Nid (the nest), offers
panoramic views and a playful contemporary interior,
where visitors enjoy drinks seated on the eggs for chairs.
When Nantes lost its shipyards on the Loire island, the
atop a chimney mirroring those of the

nearby power station, and Inconcevable, a
boat attempting to jump out of the canal back into the Loire,
or the leaning Maison dans la Loire, trapped forever by
city looked to artists and craftsmen to reinvent itself. It all
water and silt. Out in the open countryside, the estuary is a
began with Les Machines de lle, a series of larger than life
haven for birds and a lovely place for walking, cycling and
automated wooden structures which you can ride in: here a
cruising in season.
giant plodding elephant, there a flying eagle, or a three-tier
At the mouth of the Loire, hailed by one of the most
underwater carousel inspired by the imaginary world of
impressive bridges in the country, Saint-Nazaire is a major
10,000 Leagues Under the Sea author Jules Vernes, the citys
port and industrial hub, but it is also a feel-good city with a
famous son. Les Machines de lle have been much praised
seaside promenade, an extensive network of cycle tracks
as an innovative attraction, yet the citys creative vision
and a string of beaches north of the estuary.
didnt stop there. Every summer, the Voyage Nantes art
On this romantic coastline, dubbed the Cte dAmour,
installation programme invites artists from all over the
La Baule-Escoublac sits on a fabulous 8km bay offering
world to exhibit in the open air. Theres no limit to the
water-based activities. Children frolic on the sand; couples
imagination, as temporary works are added to the
of all ages stroll along the promenade; others swim, jog or
permanent displays set up in Nantes, Saint-Nazaire and
simply enjoy the ocean air and sea water spas. In town, the
along the estuary which links them. Exhibits are connected
atmosphere is typically French: small boutiques, markets
to the environment, and include Villa Chemine, a cottage
awash with fresh vegetables and gleaming seafood,
completefrance.com
Opening pages:
a view over
Batz-sur-Mer
These pages,
clockwise from
top left: street life
in Nantes; the
Chteau des Ducs
de Bretagne; inside
the castle walls;
Trentemoult; the
beach at La
Baule-Escoublac;
cycling in Nantes
Inset: the giant
elephant at Les
Machines de lle
REN MATTES / HEMIS.FR; S. HANDO; PATRICK MESSINA / LVAN; MARTIN

ARGYROGLO/LVAN; JEAN-DOMINIQUE BILLAUD - NAUTILUS/LVAN; OFFICE DE
TOURISME LA BAULE
of the Tour de Bretagne, a 32-storey office block
DESTINATION
Le Croisic is a petite
cit de caractre that
has kept its traditional
atmosphere
This page, from
top: Le Croisic;
the coastal town
has many eateries
to choose from
quaint restaurants like the Table de Loc at the back of a

grocers shop, and oyster bars, including the locals
favourite haunt, Chez lcailleur. In the winding lanes
behind the seafront apartments, myriad Belle poque villas
nestle under the pine trees, the properties set out like
miniature chteaux topped by silvery roofs, with some
half-timbered, and painted green, orange or blue. They bear
witness to a once exclusive resort now open to everyone.
Beyond La Baule-Escoublac, the long ribbon of sand
gives way to a dramatic wild coast where sandy coves and
rocky creeks meander below the cliffs, punctuated by caves
and dramatic crags. There are no large-scale developments
here, rather a coastal path fringed with wild flowers and
gorse, and old fishing villages and marinas, such as Batzsur-Mer and, at the tip of the Gurande peninsula, Le
Croisic. Here, history remains: the crperies serving sweet
and savoury pancakes, the shops promising Saveurs de
Bretagne, the postcards and souvenirs bearing similar
labels. It is busy in season but this petite cit de caractre
has kept its traditional atmosphere, most exciting when
squawking seagulls greet the return of the fishing fleet.
I moved here in 2004 with my two children,
says Lorraine Green (left), from Swindon. First
to La Brire, and now were in Batz-sur-Mer
where Id been coming on holiday since I was 10.
completefrance.com
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I love the sea and all the contrasts along the coast. Its
stunning. I work at the university in Saint-Nazaire, and
Nantes is only 45 minutes away. The food here is superb.
The people are sincere and full of fun, and I do quite a bit of
sport. Im proud to have this dual culture, and have done
my best to bring up my children the same way. And of
course, theres the countryside, which is just as varied and
Thats true. A short drive inland, the salt marshes display
dotted with thatched hamlets and here and there an old
ever-changing colours, from russet and gold reeds to silvery
mill, a bread oven or an ancient megalithic site. There are
blue or emerald waters reflecting the mood of the sky. Here
footpaths and cycling trails and also Kerhinet, a village-like
and there a paludier (salt marsh worker) rakes the finest salt
museum showcasing traditional cottages, workshops and a
from the surface, white pyramids glisten on the banks and
farmyard complete with animals and old machinery.
on a nearby hillock, the medieval ramparts of Gurande
Further inland and once described as the most beautiful
keep watch over an old town firmly rooted in tradition.
river in France, the Erdre reveals itself like an idyllic
Beyond the massive gate of Saint-Michel, Gurande is all
painting: lonely fishermen and weeping willows, tiny
granite and slate leading to the collegiate church, and its
harbours and misty lakes; eclectic chteaux, manors and
typical jumble of architectural features.
follies sprinkled along its verdant banks. In the 18th century,
Barely a stones throw away, the Parc Naturel Rgional
the newly rich made this bucolic valley their favourite
de Brire boasts the second largest wetlands in France after
country escape, asserting their status in fanciful ways. In
the Camargue. The freshwater marshes and canals can be
the far north of the department, around Chteaubriant, the
explored on a flat-bottom boat; gliding silently through the
middle country is a quiet land of forests and ponds, and
greenery where warblers and sparrows share their habitat
humble villages hiding a surprise or two: here a sturdy
with grey herons, ducks and migrating birds. The Parc
medieval castle, there a forlorn chapel or a fortified church.
Naturel Rgional de Brire is also a rich agricultural land,
completefrance.com
This page,
clockwise from top
left: the beach at
La Baule-Escoublac;
the Parc Naturel
Rgional de Brire; a
paludier in the salt
marshes; fresh
produce at
the market
South of the estuary, Loire-Atlantique takes
MATTES REN / STICHELBAUT BENOIT / HEMIS.FR; OFFICE DE

TOURISME LA BAULE; TOM VAN DE LAAN; S. HANDO
beautiful as the coast.
DESTINATION
on a different face as red roofs and white walls replace

granite and slate, and the bracing Cte de Jade replaces the
Cte dAmour. Beyond the sweeping sands of Saint-Brvinles-Pins and Tharon-Plage, the Saint-Gildas headland offers
spectacular views from Le Croisic to the estuary and across
the Bay of Bourgneuf to Noirmoutier in the neighbouring
Vende department. Not so far away, the legendary castle of
Bluebeard guards the pretty harbour of Pornic where writers
and artists came in droves in the 19th century. Today,
families relax on the sands and along the coast; fishing huts
on stilts glow in the setting sun.
Head inland and you come to Grand-Lieu, one of the
VALERY JONCHERAY / OFFICE DE TOURISME DU VIGNOBLE DE NANTES; D. DROUET; CH. FAVREAU; ROY PHILIPPE /
HEMIS.FR; S.HANDO
largest freshwater lakes in France, which measures up to

65km in circumference during the winter floods.
Surrounded by grasses and reeds, it is a mysterious sort of
place and sometimes, they say, you might hear the chiming
of church bells from a village submerged long ago. A
protected nature reserve, it is the domain of a few
fishermen netting eels and large numbers of birds
spoonbills, ducks, marsh harriers, egrets and more.
Meanwhile in the south-east, vineyards spread across
the plain and hills. This is the realm of the Muscadet grape,
the perfect accompaniment in wine form to fish, shellfish,
white meat and even cheese. Many wine estates are open to
visitors, among them the Domaine de la Vinonnire where
the Perraud family have been for seven generations. It is all
about quality, explains Sylvie, currently at the helm. Its a
demanding job but I am passionate about it.
From tender green to autumn colours, the vignoble
nantais is enchanting but along the River Svre, the village
of Clisson is simply a dream. On the edge of LoireAtlantique, it was destroyed in the aftermath of the
revolution, and was rebuilt with gently sloping roofs, arched
windows and decorative brickwork in warm colours. On the
completefrance.com
loire-atlantique
Fact file
i
Tourist information
Loire-Atlantique tourist board

Tel: 00 33 (0)8 10 04 40 01
www.ohlaloireatlantique.com
Nantes tourist office
Tel: 00 33 (0)8 92 46 40 44
www.nantes-tourisme.com
Where to stay
Ocania Htel de France
24 Rue Crbillon
44000 Nantes
Tel: 00 33 (0)2 40 73 57 91
www.oceaniahotels.com
Htel Best Western Garden & Spa
30 Avenue du Bois dAmour
44500 La Baule-Escoublac
Tel: 00 33 (0)2 40 60 77 12
www.hotel-labaule-gardenspa.com
Where to eat
La Cigale
4 Place Graslin
44000 Nantes
Tel: 00 33 (0)2 51 84 94 94
www.lacigale.com
La Villa
18 Avenue du Gnral de Gaulle
44500 La Baule-Escoublac
Tel: 00 33 (0)2 40 23 06 00
www.lavilla-labaule.com
Families relax on the

sands and along the coast;
fishing huts on stilts glow
in the setting sun
hilltop, a public park offers wonderful views over the
village, its striking bridge and cascading waters. Here, at the
confluence of the Svre and the River Moine, you cannot
forget history; across the river, the medieval castle rises as
proudly as ever, the birthplace and favourite country
residence of one Franois II. And, if the noblesse of France
decreed Loire-Atlantique a favourite, theres every reason
to explore life here for yourself.
NEXT MONTH...
DESTINATION: GARD AND HRAULT

We explore these two departments in Languedoc-Roussillon
completefrance.com
These pages,
clockwise from
top left: Le Croisic;
kayaking in the
Atlantic; Clisson
from above; from
the water; a crperie
in Le Croisic
Where to visit
Les Machines de lle
Parc des Chantiers
Boulevard Lon Bureau
44200 Nantes
Tel: 00 33 (0)8 10 12 12 25
www.lesmachines-nantes.fr
Parc Naturel Rgional de Brire
La Maison du Parc
Village de Kerhinet
44410 Saint-Lyphard
Tel: 00 33 (0)2 40 66 01
www.parc-naturel-briere.fr
Getting there
Air France, bmi regional, easyJet,
Flybe and CityJet all fly direct UK to Nantes.
www.airfrance.co.uk
www.bmiregional.com
www.easyjet.com
www.flybe.com
www.cityjet.com
loire-atlantique: real-life
RUN OF THE MILL
Franco-Irish couple Annie and Daniel Flavin tell Deborah Curtis why their B&B and gte
business in a pretty riverside setting has been such a rewarding venture
hen Annie Flavin was a

young woman, she
the beginning of the 19th century.

There was a lot of history to the place,
travelled from her home
says Daniel. One of the original owners had
in south-west France to
written a book, which we now have, which
Ireland, to try her hand at
details the history of the textile industry
farming. It was while working on a dairy farm
along the River Svre. The mill is on the
in the countryside near Cork that she met her
other side of the river from where we are
Irish husband Daniel, on a fateful night out
and theres a little bridge over to it from our
for drinks at the local pub.
property. The same family once owned the
Today, having left the world of farming far
whole thing. They set up the factory
behind, the couple now live in Annies native
around 1800 and they lived in this house
France. Their home is in the Loire-Atlantique
until 1955 when they sold it to the doctor
countryside near the pretty village of Gtign,
and then we bought it; so since 1800 we
not far from Clisson, a town renowned for its
are only the third owners of this
historic architecture and 14th-century castle.
property, which is quite amazing.
They run a B&B and gte business from their
Once La Sauzaie was theirs, they set
home, La Sauzaie; have four grown-up
about bringing it up to date and getting
children; and welcome scores of people each
the place ready to welcome their first
year, many of whom return to stay year after
visitors. There was a lot of work to do.
year, and have become firm friends.

After five years in Cork and five years in
The first thing we did was put in a

new water main, says Daniel. There
London, we lived in Pas-de-Calais in

Montreuil-sur-Mer for 12 years, and then we
decided to move further south because the
climate is better, says Daniel.
They began their search for a property in
Loire-Atlantique in the spring of 2003, and
initially discounted La Sauzaie because the
large house and outbuildings on the banks of
the River Svre, which stand in 30 acres of
fields, gardens and woodland, were more
We just fell in love with the

gardens; the whole place, the
river and everything without ever
seeing the inside of the house
than they wanted to take on. However, after

three days of fruitless house-hunting, the
was an old lead pipe, and that had to be
not exactly this red, but I decided on a
friends they were staying with persuaded
changed; we had to get a proper electricity
bright red as it is all green around; to make
them to go and take a look.
supply in; we put in septic tanks, and then we
a lovely splash of colour.
We came to visit and it was May, Daniel

remembers fondly. It was really hot and we
did the gtes.

They also decorated throughout;
The large outdoor pool is a big draw for

visitors, and this too has been updated to
meet 21st-century standards.
just fell in love with the gardens; the whole
transforming tired interiors from the 1950s
place, the river and everything; without ever
and 60s into a fresh, light and modern look.
seeing the inside of the house.
The exterior of the house, they painted white,
fed from the river, says Daniel. There was a
while the balconies and shutters are now a
little canal coming from the Svre, which fed
warm and cheerful shade of red.
the pool, and then at the other end of the
The next day they went back and spent

some time with the then owner, a doctor who
used La Sauzaie as a maison secondaire
We had to do up the balconies five years
The pool was there but it was originally
pool, there was a little overflow, so you had
residence. That visit lasted five hours and it
ago because the timber was all rotten, says
water constantly coming from the river.
was then that they first learned about the
Annie. The original colour was an old red,
When we moved in, we cut that off and put
history of the property, which dates back to
which had faded over the years in the sun, so
in a proper filtration system because when
I decided to go for a bright red because
youve got cold water continuously coming
actually the faade of the house is more like
into the pool, its very hard to keep it the
the houses of the Basque country in the
right temperature. We put in the pool
south-west, and down there they are red
house and the filtration system.
Opposite, clockwise from top:

La Sauzaie; enjoying pizza night; the bread oven sits
behind the house; boating on the River Svre
completefrance.com
DESTINATION
The warmth of their welcome has

won them many friends over the
years, many of whom return
Its quite big pool its 90
that, in the past, British people have
acres of woods and gardens which is quite a
tended to overlook.
handful, says Daniel. We have a sheep and a
Loire-Atlantique is easily accessible,
donkey, who help keep the grass down and
though, and with its stunning coastline, the
then sometimes, at weekends, we organise
square metres and even if we have
city of Nantes, and Muscadet wine country to
for friends from Nantes to come for the
15-20 people staying, theres room for
list among its attractions, its not hard to see
weekend to help us. We get a big group
everybody in there.
why those whove discovered this hidden
together so it makes the tedious jobs that
treasure keep coming back.
little bit easier. We do work hard but then
Every Wednesday evening, Daniel and

Annie hold a social evening for their guests;
Its a really nice feeling that people have
during the evening we have a bit of a party.

They are currently exploring the idea of
firing up the restored bread oven in the
had a really nice holiday and they want to
garden and baking delicious home-made
come back, says Annie. Thats the nicest
inviting a like-minded couple to join them in
pizzas for everyone.
part of the business really: meeting people.
partnership at La Sauzaie. The idea is in its
In a lot of houses, the bread oven was
Sometimes you get fed up with housework,
infancy but they would love to hear from any
incorporated inside the house, but the bread
but you get to meet really nice people, and it
British people who might be interested in
oven here is an outside building, says Daniel.
makes it all worth it. If you didnt like meeting
finding out more.
I have to light the fire at 4 oclock in the
people, there would be no enjoyment and you
afternoon because the oven needs feeding
can spend a lot of time chatting over breakfast
people who would like to come for a week to
with timber for three to four hours to it get up
which is very nice.
share this place with us and maybe become a
to temperature. If we have families staying,
In the height of spring and summer
Wed be interested in hearing from
partner. It would need to be somebody whos
the kids often come and help me. They love
seasons, however, when everything is
interested in trees and plants, and likes
it. Everybody makes the dough and then
growing, there is not much time for relaxing
people. Were open to suggestions.
everybody prepares their own pizza, and
over coffee. Annie and Daniel do the majority
we have wine and music, and we have a
of the work themselves at La Sauzaie, and
they are hoping there will be no shortage of
good evening.
with a property of this size, there is plenty to
people keen to spend some time in their
keep them very, very busy.
idyllic corner of France.
The warmth of their welcome has won

them many friends over the years, many of
whom return for holidays in a part of France
Luckily half of it is rented out to a local

sheep farmer, but weve still got about 12
And with this long-term plan in mind,
www.frenchconnections.co.uk
Property ID: 100359
completefrance.com
LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE: ask the agent
Ask the agent
No one knows the area like a local estate agent. We asked Clive Percival,
of Leggett Immobilier, for the inside track on Loire-Atlantique
Whats the cheapest
property you have
on your books
right now?
the road and continued to eventually
I have a two-bedroom
and its coastlines.
character cottage situated
Whats the most unusual request that

youve had?
in a quiet hamlet for 76,780.
I once had a client who needed a property

with land he could convert into a runway for
What tips would you give to help people

settle into life in the area?
his plane, and ideally an outbuilding to
The best way to settle into life here is simply
convert into a hangar.
to join in and enjoy. The key is integration.
How much would you expect to pay for:

z
a detached property with land in good
reappear in the mairie, apparently used by
What advice would you give to somebody

who is thinking of buying in your area?
the Resistance.
My advice is to come and see what we have

to offer. Take the time to explore the area
You dont have to be fluent in French, but
condition?
This type of property can be from 200,000
upwards.
z
a three-bedroom townhouse?
Is there a particular architecture or style

in Loire-Atlantique?
you do need to try in order to experience the

true French lifestyle.
Loire-Atlantique is renowned for having a

find traditional stone cottages with slate
What are your predictions for the

property market in Loire-Atlantique?
A renovation project can cost anything
roofs, while in the south there is white
This is a great time to buy as prices have
between 40,000 for a small cottage to
render and pantile roof tiles. In the
never been better. There are still bargains to
100,000 plus for a longre with land.
marshland areas you will find stone cottages
be had and you can make investments.
Prices would start at around 150,000.

z
a renovation opportunity?
variety of architecture. To the north you will
and thatched roofs.
Whats the most unusual property you

had sold in the past?
What are the regional specialities?
One of the most unusual properties I have
Why do British people tend to buy in

Loire-Atlantique?
had was an old mill that was once owned by
There is much to attract British buyers.
a miller who allegedly buried a crock of gold
Besides the mild climate, there is a wide
somewhere in the grounds that still hasnt
diversity of properties and also a varied
Describe Loire-Atlantique in five words

or fewer?
been found! Another was an old stone
coastline. It is easily accessible by air from
Jewel of the region.
Breton cottage with a hidden past a secret
Rennes and Nantes airports, and by ferry via
passage that ran from the basement under
the ports of Saint-Malo, Caen and Cherbourg.
LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE is it right for you?

Property prices
With an average resale price of 195,000, LoireAtlantique is the most expensive department in
Pays de la Loire (average resale price of 153,000).
The regional specialities are seafood, in

particular moules, and Muscadet.
www.leggettfrance.com
FACT FILE
Region: Pays de la Loire
Department: Loire-Atlantique
Capital: Nantes
There are regular flights to Nantes from London

and regional UK airports.
Activities
Eurostar to Paris and then TGV to Nantes which

takes just over two hours.
On the western coast of France, Loire-Atlantique is home to dynamic cities,

stunning coastline and is haven for wildlife. The capital Nantes (above) is a vibrant
city with the 15th-century Chteau des Ducs de Bretagne and the Machines de lle
with its iconic mechanical elephant. The department boasts the Cte dAmour and
the Cte de Jade which are home to sandy beaches, bustling harbour towns and
busy ports. There is also the Parc Naturel Rgional de Brire wetlands, and the
Gurande salt marshes. When it comes to regional specialities, seafood is popular
here, and there are numerous crperies.
For driving times consult one of the many online

route planners such as those at www.viamichelin.com,
www.mappy.com and www.theaa.com
completefrance.com
LAD / V. BAUZA
Weather
Loire-Atlantique enjoys a pleasant climate with
warm summers and mild winters, thanks to the
influence of the Atlantic coast.
LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE: properties
What can I get for my money?

In the west of France, Loire-Atlantique boasts sandy beaches, picturesque marshlands and
the dynamic capital of Nantes. Here is a selection of properties to tempt you
126,000
This three-bedroom cottage is on the

edge of a village, within walking
distance of the shops and restaurant. It is
only 20km from the beaches of La Baule
and less than an hour from Nantes. The
property has an open-plan kitchen and
living room, as well as a fully enclosed
garden and a garage.
Contact: Leggett Immobilier
372,500
This stunning property is a former

parsonage with a priests cottage
included. The cottage needs renovating but
the parsonage boasts four bedrooms and
spacious living rooms. Character features
include original beams, an open fireplace and
a carved oak staircase. The property is in a
village near Chteaubriant.
Contact: Agence Newton
www.agencenewton.com
completefrance.com
199,800
Located in a small hamlet of only three

houses, this property is surrounded by
woodland yet is only a short drive from the
nearest village. There are three bedrooms, a
fully fitted kitchen and a living room, while
the attic has the potential to be converted
into futher bedrooms. There is also a large
garden with fruit trees and a potager.
453,000
In a quiet area near the coast and

close to all amenities in the village of
Mesquiet, this modern house was built in
2007. The property offers three bedrooms,
one bathroom, a bright open-plan
kitchen/dining/living area and a
mezzanine level. There is a swimming
pool and a terrace.
Contact: My French House
www.my-french-house.co.uk
341,550
Built in the 1930s, this longre house

has been fully renovated into an
elegant home with plenty of character.
The house is located near Saint-Andrdes-Eaux, close to the coast and the Parc
Naturel Rgional de Brire. There are five
bedrooms, a living room, fully equipped
kitchen, garage and land of 1,200m2.
Contact: My French House
www.my-french-house.co.uk
625,400
This contemporary home is set in a private

estate comprising lawn, woodland, a
terrace and a pond. The house has a total of
six bedrooms, a large conservatory and a fully
fitted kitchen. There is an independent living
area on the first floor with a bedroom,
bathroom and living room. The house is eight
kilometres from the coast.
LIFESTYLE
A green dream
The pretty village of Coulon in the Marais Poitevin was the ideal place to set up a
B&B and gte business for one expat couple, says Stephanie Sheldrake
internet, practically every property you could imagine in
France to start a B&B and gte business was
our price bracket. Every time we saw something interesting,
the perfect alternative to retiring. The couple
we would have a look.
had been living in East Yorkshire where they
Marylyn and Anthony decided to whittle down their
ran their own design business for more than
search area, as they wanted a location with a good amount
20 years. A lot of our friends were moving away and we
of sunshine without being too hot in the summer, so they
were looking for a new adventure. We didnt want to retire;
outlined an area south of the Loire down to Bordeaux.
we were looking for something to keep us active, give us a
It was the pretty villages of the Marais Poitevin that
nice property, and be somewhere we could meet people and
really caught their eye, a lush green area of waterways
be in the swing of things, says Marylyn, who had long
inland from Niort to La Rochelle. Tourists love coming to
dreamed of running a B&B.
the area, so we came down and had a look at half a dozen
But the couple were not about to jump the gun; quite
properties and chose the one were living in now, explains
the opposite. Having decided to move to France, they spent
Anthony. The property is a 19th-century lodge with
the next five years taking their holidays in different regions
outbuildings, a five-minute walk from the pretty village of
where they might want to live, as Anthony explains:
Coulon in Deux-Svres. The people selling it were very
Marylyn decided she wanted to be near the sea, so we
charming. They had about an acre and a half with trees,
started looking at places within one hours drive of the
which were 150 years old, in the garden. We were absolutely
coast. We started in Normandy, then Brittany, and all the
mesmerised by this lovely park, and the huge property with
way down to Aquitaine, near Bordeaux. Over five years we
amazing outbuildings. It was all in very good condition, but
must have looked at thousands of properties on the
obviously not suitable for B&B and gtes, but we thought we
completefrance.com
ANTHONY AND MARYLYN KUSMIREK
or Anthony and Marylyn Kusmirek, moving to
marais poitevin gte business
These pages,
clockwise from far
left: Anthony and
Marylyn Kusmirek;
breakfast for the B&B
guests; Logis de
Bellevue; colourful
dining room
The pretty villages of

the Marais Poitevin
really caught their
eye, an area of lush
green waterways
could make the conversion ourselves, he adds.
Marylyn and Anthony were able to move to France in
February 2008, having sold their house and design
business. Adjusting to the new language and culture did not
present any challenges as Anthony had spent much of his
childhood in northern France, growing up with his French
aunt and other relatives, and spoke French fluently.
Marylyn, on the other hand, grew up in Jersey and having
learnt French at school, improved her conversation skills
when she spent time with Anthonys family in France.
When I came here, I had a good grounding in grammar and
I already had overcome the threshold of having to speak in
French, says Marylyn.
Having bought the property, the couple met with the
local mayor, who introduced them to various people
in the local tourism industry, and many of these links have
played a vital role. Mixing with people like you,
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These pages,
clockwise from top:
the gte complex;
a day out in La
Rochelle; traditional
flat-bottom boats
of the Marais
Poitevin; one of the
gtes bedrooms
makes you feel part of it and it doesnt feel daunting at all,
By talking to locals and looking at Yellow Pages, we invited
says Marylyn. One key contact the couple met early on was
dozens of people to come and see the job, giving them plans
the local president of Clvacances, an association of gtes
for electricity, plumbing and so forth. Eventually we chose
and B&Bs, which was set up by the French government 20
people we wanted to work with and people who had a good
years ago to run alongside the departmental tourism
price, explains Anthony. But we never succumbed to the
agencies. She told us all the criteria that we would need to
idea of paying upfront. They all demand that in their
meet to for a three-star rating. For example, we had to have
quotes, but we said if our moneys good enough, itll have
air extractors fitted in the toilets and kitchens; the
to be on trust and they agreed. Eventually we had a great
bedrooms had to have light switches on either side of the
satisfaction in all the work that was done.
bed; there were lots of little things that we would never
Its clear that forward planning and thorough research
have dreamed of that were essential to get the three-star
were important to the couple when planning their move to
rating, says Anthony.
France and setting up the business. We think if youre
Having worked in design, Anthony drew up the plans for
thorough and you plan well ahead, you minimise your
the B&B and gte accommodation himself, and then spent
problems, says Anthony. The couple did have some minor
time finding the right artisans for the job. The plan was to
problems along the way namely leaking shower cubicles
convert the outbuildings into two luxury two-bedroom
and a problem with the heated hand rails but fortunately
gtes, and adapt the main property to a chambres dhtes
nothing major.
with a three-bedroom family suite.

The couple were keen to find the right artisans to do the
Anthony and Marylyn finished the conversion and Le

Logis de Bellevue opened for business in April 2009.
work. They key thing we felt was to get a good job done at
Working with Clvacances has been a key part of getting up
a good price, so we had five or six quotations for everything.
and running, as Anthony explains: You get all the advice

you need in terms of producing your contracts in French
and in English, general advice as well as marketing: they
have a national website, a catalogue/brochure. They get all
the Deux-Svres B&B and gte owners together several times
a year to exchange information.
At first, the majority of Le Logis de Bellevues business
was mainly French, and came via Clvacances, as well as
through links with the tourist board. The property is also
listed on the Alastair Sawdays website, as well as with
Owners Direct, which Anthony says has brought more
British guests. Over seven years, the French market was
replaced by an English market. Now, almost 95% of guests
are English not by choice; it just happened that way.
Initially, the couple thought they might be open for
business all year round, but in reality most of their guests
completefrance.com
ATTRACTIONS
IN THE AREA
FOR A GRAND DAY OUT
Futuroscope
Located in the neighbouring department of
Vienne, Futuroscope is a popular futuristic
theme park, with several 3D and 4D cinemas
and other multi-media attractions. First
experienced in 2014, The Time Machine ride is
based on the game Raving Rabbids, which
takes visitors on a wild journey through time.
There are more than 25 different rides and
experiences, with something for all the family.
en.futuroscope.com
FOR HISTORY FANS
Puy du Fou
This historical theme park in Vende has
entranced visitors since it opened more than
30 years ago. The park welcomes more than
1.2 million visitors every year who come to
enjoy the historic re-enactments,
demonstrations with birds of prey. Historic
shows include themes such as the Vikings, the
Middle Ages and the Musketeers. This unique
theme park will both educate and entertain
those who visit.
www.puydufou.com
FOR NATURE LOVERS
Marais Poitevin
Dubbed the Venise Verte or Green Venice of
France, this lush green nature reserve is a
network of canals and rivers spanning three
departments (Vende, Deux-Svres and
Charente-Maritime). It is the second largest
wetlands in France, after the Camargue. Last
June, the Marais Poitevin was labelled a Parc
Naturel Rgional and is a popular eco-tourism
hotspot. The best ways to explore the lush
scenery and rich widlife is by renting a
riverboat, bicycle or canoe.
www.marais-poitevin.com
The plan was to convert the

outbuildings into two luxury
two-bedroom gtes, and adapt
the main property to a B&B
visit during the period from Easter to September. Since
many are families, the majority of bookings are within the
school holidays. The area is popular with those who come
to enjoy the nearby beaches, as well as activities such as
boating and cycling in the Marais Poitevin. There are also
two big tourist attractions within an hours drive
Futuroscope and Puy du Fou (see left).
The area boasts a busy calendar of events and festivals,
which has been an important factor in attracting guests.
The French are very keen on street art, markets,
celebrating food and wine, so we do a lot of research to
know where our clients can visit at different times of the
year so they can enjoy themselves. Weve become excellent
ambassadors for the region, enthuses Anthony.
Setting up and running the business has been rewarding
for the couple, but they do find it hard work in the warm
summer months. We have a six-hour window
in which we have to clean four bedrooms, four bathrooms,
two kitchens, two lounges, plus two to three rooms in the
B&B. Finding adequate staff is not always very easy so we
share the duties. And then we have the swimming pool to
clean all within a short space of time. We dont stop for
completefrance.com
LIFESTYLE
For Marylyn, one of the most enjoyable parts of looking

after the guests is cooking for them. I do evening meals on
reservation, she says. We offer a three- or four-course
meal with wine and apritifs. I do make my own plum wine
Not many people are

familiar with this area, but
its one of the hidden
treasures of France
This page,
clockwise from top:
cycling in the Marais
Poitevin; Marylyns
cherry and apple
cake; a typical Marais
farm
which is much enjoyed by our French friends, and I use that

as an apritif. As well as pressing apple juice, Marylyn
enjoys harvesting her crops from the vegetable garden,
including artichokes and strawberries.
As for the future, the couple have no intention of leaving
their green haven in Deux-Svres. Weve been here for
seven years now and it just seems to have flown past, says
Marylyn. Weve integrated ourselves into the local
community by joining various associations the tourist
board, twin town associations, and Marylyn is in the local
lunch. We finish exhausted because its a race against time;
choir, adds Anthony, who says that they also enjoy getting
but its good fun it keeps us active, says Anthony.
involved in local events and festivities.
Suddenly we have to welcome our customers with a big
Its clear that the couple enjoy all that their new French
smile, and offer them a big welcome drink and act as if
life has to offer. For Marylyn, a particular highlight has been
nothing happened in between! he laughs. When people
spending time in the garden. Im very much a gardener,
come and they enjoy it and they appreciate what youve
and I love plants and wildlife. In the orchard, there are bee
done, you get the recompense for it, adds Marylyn.
orchids and I enjoy looking after them. Ive always been a
There are plenty of ways for the couple to amuse
great lover of wild flowers and you get different ones here,
themselves if they feel they need a break from running the
which is very nice. In the spring, we get hoopoe birds from
business, as Anthony reveals: Were lucky that we live in a
North Africa and they sit in the tree theyre so beautiful.
village with seven restaurants, so if ever we fancy a change
For Anthony, enjoying the warm sunshine has been a
of scene we just walk down to the village. The skies are so
highlight. Although we escaped England to try to get away
blue here and the stone is so white; its scintillating. There is
from the wet and cold, we get the same pattern here, but
a very pleasant walk to a riverside restaurant where we
less of it, he says. But as soon as the sun comes out here,
meet friends and dine outside. We call it the Green
you feel as if youre back in springtime or summer. Two
Paradise thats the name the locals give it. Not many
years ago we had lunch on Boxing Day in La Rochelle
people are familiar with this area, but its one of the hidden
outside in the sunshine. Now that is a highlight for me!
treasures of France.
www.lelogisdebellevue.com
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CLICK AWAY AT
Crazannes (17)
650,000
Exceptional Maison de Matre, renovated to very

high standards, 5 en-suite bedrooms, numerous receptions, heated pool, superb games room & gym.
St Cr (46)
609,000
Super late C20th luxury property, ideal for B & B

with 8 beds / 8 baths & heated pool, set in almost
2 acres. Tourist area.
Nontron (24)
756,000
Stunning riverside setting for this country residence

for sale with two additional cottages, swimming
pool, geothermic heating etc.
For over 10 years since Foremost
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company has been the preferred
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We have a dedicated dealer in
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On average Foremost Currency are able to beat your bank by
around 2.5% on your FX exchange.
St Aulaye (24)
549,937
An historic Maison de Maitre (8 beds) in the heart

of a pretty village, oozing elegance and style.
Saint Mathieu (87/24 borders)
299,000
Top quality, renovated farmhouse for sale with gte

(5 beds in total), set in 4,658m.
Website: www.foremostcurrencygroup.co.uk
Telephone: 01442 892 060 or Freephone 0800 781 0601
E-mail: amb@fcgworld.co.uk
We recommend all of our clients to use a specialist FX dealer.
The leading website for property in South West France www.allez-francais.com | biz.allez-francais.com
Over 250 properties in the Poitou Charentes, Dordogne Valley & Gascony | Phone 00 33 (0)5 55 28 46 40
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Learning the lingo

We all know that speaking French makes life across the Channel a lot easier but with
so many learning options available, where do you start? Whatever your ability, budget
and location, we take a look at the different ways to learn
PARFUM DE FRANCE
LANGUAGE SCHOOL
Ian Moore brushes up with a residential
immersion course in the Loire Valley
LOCATION: LOIRE VALLEY LEVEL: BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

espite having lived in France for 10 years,
my French is still poor. My excuse is that I
work in the UK every week, but also my
French family doesnt help. We need one
day a week where we speak French at
home, I declared. So that I can learn.

But Daddy, replied my eldest son, nervously. When
youre at home, we want to understand you.

Clearly, I needed expert help and the Parfum de France
language school in the small Loire Valley town FontevraudLAbbaye seemed ideal. The school offers residential courses
for individuals and groups, from beginner level to
advanced. Pitching my level somewhere between these
two, I booked a short intensive course. Id taken a written
exam sent through by the school beforehand to gauge my
skill levels, which was fairly straightforward. Admittedly, I
may have asked my nine-year-old to translate some bits, but
its conversational French that lets me down, to the extent I
was nervous even about my arrival at school.
I neednt have been. A beaming Sylvie Reeves (founder
and director) greeted me at the door; a steaming cup of tea
in her hand. Sylvie showed me around the school actually
her home which she shares with her English husband, Mark
completefrance.com
learning french
These pages,
clockwise from
bottom left:
Combier distillery;
Ian at work with
Sylvie; FontevraudlAbbaye; learning
from Lydia Labelette;
touring the
vineyards with
Vanessa of Le Secret
des Papilles; La
Licorne; Ian in
the subterranean
wine caves
Sylvies clear accent and

patience gave me the
confidence to talk
and the gte, which sleeps up to six people. We chatted in
and a personal tour, by Lydia Labelette, directrice
the quiet garden, all in French; her clear accent (which the
dinnovation, of the stunning Abbaye de Fontevraud.

Opposite the school is La Licorne, a traditional restaurant
Loire Valley is known for, much like Oxford for students of

English) and her patience gave me the confidence to talk
gastronomique, where on my last evening, Sylvie, Mark and
and feel less self-conscious about making mistakes.
I discussed my progress. My French had indeed improved in
Sylvie outlined the intended programme, which would
a very short time, and I was leaving with a renewed
involve morning lessons, homework and visits to local
confidence, eager to put my new skills into practice. More
tourist sites to put my new skills into practice. It would be a
than that though I felt, despite the workload, that Id
hectic few days; intensive being a very accurate
actually had a holiday too. Languages arent as popular in
description, but the first lesson was more enjoyable than Id
schools as they used to be, so maybe this is the way
been prepared for as Sylvies interactive teaching method,
forward: more wine-tasting
together with a wealth of resources and exercises, began to

build on my limited skills. The knuckling down reality of
im
T
school days was the focus of the afternoon after a
from 1,600 (semi-individual basis) to 2,500 (individual basis).
delightful lunch in a nearby restaurant after which we
Tel: 00 33 (0)2 41 51 78 74
were given a guided tour of the Saumur-Champigny
www.parfumdefrance-fr.com
e
n All-inclusive prices for a co
a
d
weeks course range
t:s
vineyards by Vanessa Godfrin, of Le Secret des Papilles

organisation dedicated to the education of wine, followed
by a tasting. We then went to the Combier distillery and
learnt with a French language guided tour, about the
chequered history of absinthe and its production.
Sylvie was formerly head of the language department in
the Saumur chamber of commerce and those skills, in
particular the contacts gained, are very much a feature of
the course. Over the few days that I spent at school, I
visited the medieval troglodytes of Sauzay-Champigny; was
given a tour of the massive subterranean caves of wine
producer, Louis de Grenelle, conducted by tienne Bodet,
grandson of the owners, and followed by another tasting;
completefrance.com
LIFESTYLE
ARNAUDS LANGUAGE KITCHEN

Emma Rawle learns French in London
while creating classic cuisine
LOCATION: LONDON LEVEL: BEGINNER TO ADVANCED
he theory behind Arnauds Language Kitchen

is that if your hands are busy crafting kitchen
delights under tuition from French native
speaker and ardent foodie Arnaud, then your
brain absorbs the French language
subconsciously plus you get to go away with some goodies

made by your own fair hand. Though the concept is
enticing, I was a little bit nervous given my lack of both
French and cooking skills surely a recipe for disaster!
Surprisingly though, I came away from the three-hour class
with some delicious macarons and plenty of French
vocabulary to help with buying la maison de mes rves.
exercises as a group with explanations from our teacher on
The courses are taught in Arnauds London home, in
points of grammar, tips on pronunciation and examples of
small groups usually between two to six pupils and are
how to use the phrases in conversation. Under Arnauds
tailored to your needs, so you are able to choose the topic
guidance, the sentences that had completely baffled me
and the recipe. The classes follow much the same format
before made much more sense. After an hour of conversing
whichever topic and level you choose. I went for buying a
happily in French, we had a welcome break to cook and
house in France, hoping I would have a head start on the
assemble the macarons, before then returning to the table to
vocabulary after working for Living France for two-and-a-
finish the worksheet.

Having worked as a secondary school French teacher in
available are chatty and confident be aware that even
the UK for 15 years, Arnauds patience is unlimited, and he
the beginner level assumes a very basic knowledge of
has plenty of tricks for remembering tricky words and
French, either from school days gone by, or picked up on
phrases. The three-hour classes take place in his flat in
holidays across the Channel.
Islington, and are a great way to brush up on your French
Before getting down to the serious business of learning,
before heading across the Channel, especially as they can be
we began the class by whipping up a batch of macarons.
tailored to your requirements. Alternatively, Arnaud offers
This was a group effort and served as an effective ice-
one-to-one tuition either in person or via Skype.

EMMA RAWLE; ARNAUDS LANGUAGE KITCHEN
half years, and opted for the rusty level. Other levels
These pages,
clockwise from top
left: piping out the
macarons; Emma (in
striped top) takes
charge in the
kitchen; team work
at play; tackling
French grammar;
fellow students from
the workshop
breaker as well as getting everyone used to attempting to

talk in French. Macarons have to rest for an hour before
Time: individual cookery language sessions last three hours,
cooking, so after spending 40 minutes mixing and piping
one-to-one tuition (Skype or in person) is available in
(another new skill I learnt!) we sat down around the kitchen
one-hour sessions.
table to learn some French.
Cost: 95 for individual cookery language sessions
Arnaud had sent a worksheet containing several
(350 for four sessions), 40 an hour for one-to-one
exercises and vocabulary a week before the class, and Id
tuition, 25 an hour for Skype tuition
worked my way through most of them with extensive use of
Tel: 07590 294 901
a dictionary. During the lesson we worked through the
www.arnaudslanguagekitchen.com
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learning french
EXPERT TIPS
Language expert
Alice Phillpott takes us
through her top tips
COMMENT DIT-ON EN
FRANAIS?
This is likely to be the first and most important phrase
you will encounter when you embark on the
challenging, yet incredibly enriching journey of learning
French. So the more you use it, the better!
Talk to any language teacher and they will probably
agree that the secret of effective language learning is little
and often. Spending 15 minutes a day fully focussed on
French will instantly bring better results than slaving over a
grammar book for hours on end.
Mastering a language can be a long and gradual process,
but for those with even the tiniest amount of spare time on
their hands, there are still solutions. So whichever category
is for you, I hope youll find these tips useful and inspiring
BEGINNERS
Play a language learning CD in your car, such as the set
from Michel Thomas remember repetition is key, and
listening will also help to highlight the pronunciation.
Memorise full sentences, as these are more beneficial than
isolated words.
Get back to basics master the French alphabet properly;

its importance should never be underestimated.
Embrace any opportunity while in France to practise what

you have learnt. Set yourself the goal of ordering your lunch
in French while resisting any attempt to convert the
conversation to English. Any exchange in French, no matter
Having worked as a secondary

school teacher, Arnauds
patience is unlimited
how small, will work wonders for your confidence.
Keep reviewing what you have learnt whether

vocabulary lists or a sequence of dialogue. As a beginner, it
can be tempting to concentrate on new material, but a
sound understanding of previous language is important too.
IF YOU ARE PRESSED FOR TIME

Stick sticky notes with troublesome verb conjugations on
the bathroom mirror, so that you can revise them while
brushing your teeth.
Beware of people seeking to practise their English to your

detriment. This is possibly the biggest obstacle you may
need to overcome, and as a beginner you are particularly
vulnerable. Perseverance is key!
Did you know despite the global dominance of English,
both French and English are currently spoken on five
continents of the world.
INTERMEDIATE
Sign up to a free conversation exchange website. Meet
someone who is keen to do a language exchange on a
regular basis. This might be in person or via Skype. There is
nothing better than an authentic and spontaneous
interaction in the target language. Or why not join a Meetup
group consisting of fellow francophiles?
completefrance.com
LIFESTYLE
Watch French songs on YouTube with lyrics a fast and
fun way to reinforce pronunciation and widen vocabulary.
Switch the audio language on your favourite television

series to French and have fun discovering the French
equivalent. A sense of familiarity and genuine interest in
the story will undoubtedly aid understanding.
Listen to French radio online or podcasts while pottering

about at home you may not catch every word, but regular
exposure to French will help your ear to become
accustomed to its wonderful tones and rhythm.
daily routine. Websites such as www.20minutes.fr offer

easy-to-decipher articles concerning current events.
Read a play in French. While novels are excellent for
cultivating a sound knowledge of grammar, since plays are
Read your daily horoscope online in French integrate
purely composed of dialogue, they are much more
this simple activity into your daily routine and it will add so
accessible and easier to digest.
much value. An unknown verb is bound to crop up!
Watch interviews with your favourite French actors or
Beware of false friends, or faux amis due to the
singers on YouTube. A personal interest in someone is
complex linguistic history of the two languages, French is
highly motivating and promotes understanding. Indeed,
scattered with words that deceptively resemble what appear
you are far more likely to retain the language if it is
Read the news in French

online make it part of
your daily routine
interesting and relevant.

Share language create a Whatsapp or email group with
other French enthusiast friends and exchange new
idiomatic expressions you have learnt!
Beware of becoming complacent! Now that youve

achieved a high level of fluency, why not focus on
to be their English equivalents. Unfortunately, these may
perfecting your accent in French? Or maybe even getting to
lull you into a false sense of security, so be aware that what
grips with Qubcois French This Canadian version will
can appear to be a direct translation isnt always correct.
certainly provide a challenge and is even viewed by some as

almost a different language.
Did you know Un bouton does mean a button but it is

also used to describe a spot or pimple on the face.
Did you knowSome Qubcois films shown in French

cinemas contain subtitles to ensure European French-
ADVANCED
speakers understand them!
Watch a French film with French subtitles. Reading the

subtitles while listening to the audio will reinforce new
Alice Phillpott is a language teacher and holds a diploma in
language and give you chance to understand words you
teaching French as a foreign language, as well as a TEFL
have missed. It is a great way of addressing discrepancies
qualification. She is a lifelong Francophile and can often be
between the written and spoken forms of French.
found sitting on a sunny caf terrace while sipping a caf
Read the news in French online make it part of your
allong and watching the world go by.
If the idea of Skype lessons appeals, take a

look at some of the options available. For
those unfamiliar with Skype, it can be
downloaded free onto your computer
from www.skype.com, and enables you to
make free video calls over the internet.
The website service Learn French with a
Native French Speaker offers one-toone lessons with a native French speaker,
who creates a personalised learning plan
depending on your requirements. The
main benefit of this type of learning is that
you are able to improve speaking and
listening skills at your own pace, from the
comfort of your home, at a time that suits
you. It is also a much more cost-effective

way of learning, as teachers dont have the
overhead costs associated with teaching in
a classroom. Five hours of lessons costs
112.50 (22.50 an hour); 10 hours costs
200 (20 an hour) and 20 hours costs
380 (19 an hour).
http://french.somethingtodo.me.uk
Talk in French runs online lessons by
Frdric Bibard. Many of Frdrics students
are at intermediate or advanced level, but
need help with speaking and listening
skills, though he does offer help for
beginners by breaking lessons down into

smaller, simpler chunks. As well as Skype,
Frdric also uses Google Hangouts (www.
google.co.uk/hangouts) sessions last
around one hour, during which time topics
are discussed using the chat function.
Frdric offers unlimited writing correction
and support outside the class, and lessons
are tailor-made for learners individual
needs. Lessons cost 30 for one hour and
can be booked one at a time. In additio to
Skype, Frdric offers free resources on his
website, podcasts and a range of French
language ebooks available to buy on his
website and Amazon.
www.talkinfrench.com
completefrance.com
GZORGZ / ISTOCK; CHRISTOPHER ROSE / ISTOCK; KASPARS GRINVALDS / FOTOLIA
ONLINE LEARNING
LIFESTYLE
All that
jazz
The vineyards of Vaucluse in Provence planted

the seed of a musical adventure for one expat,
as Paul Shearer discovers
azz among the vines. Whats not to like about

that? The idea of combining laid-back,
hypercool music with wine that
sophisticated elixir responsible for many a
convivial evening came to a group of
like-minded music lovers in France more than a decade ago.

The resultant music festival, Jazz dans les Vignes, is now
a much-loved programme of concerts. Held largely in the

summer months, the event takes place across a cluster of
vineyard domaines and local caves coopratives in and
around the Provenal village of Cairanne, in the regions
Vaucluse department.
For Fred Stephenson, the British vice-president of Jazz
dans les Vignes and sometimes gigging drummer, a passion
for music was the beginning of his life in France:
I came down here from London to do a gig in 1978 and
never went back, he explains with a chuckle. I had a pair
of jeans, drum kit the wife. I phoned the people back
home and said if theres anything in the flat you want just
take it. Were staying here.
Almost 40 years on, he and German wife Ingrid are
happily embedded into village life in Travaillan, next door
to the Ctes du Rhne wine-producing appellation of
Cairanne. They have brought up their three children in
France, and are now easing into the grandparent stage of
life with three grandchildren.
Fred, 65, was born in Berlin, where his Army father was
We liked the weather,

the countryside, the
vineyards and that
certain way of life here
stationed. After school in Germany, he began working in a

bank in the UK, but soon left to pursue his dream of playing
drums in a rock band. The pub circuit in London at the time
that was a long way from the hustle and bustle of London.
The couple also liked the variety of countryside around
offered plenty of opportunities, and Fred joined a band
the area. One minute youre in the hills with vineyards, but
called Tim Branstons Radio. It was in the summer of 1977,
you drive round the corner and youre in a different
however, that France came calling, when the band were
landscape. To the east youve got ski country; go north and
booked to play a residency in a club in Mirabel-aux-
there are pastures with cows grazing; and between Nyons
Baronnies, in the Drme department next to Vaucluse.
and Gap youre in spaghetti western country you go over
A repeat run the following year saw Fred pitch up with

Ingrid, his then girlfriend. At the end of the summer, there
was a baby on the way: And so we decided to make a go of
the top of a hill and suddenly you feel youre waiting for
Clint Eastwood, says Fred.
He admits, though, that it was tough going for the first
it down here, Fred explains. We liked the weather, the
couple of years. The couple moved around in search of
countryside, the vineyards and that certain way of life
whatever work Fred could find: grape-picking, house-
completefrance.com
jazz in provence
cleaning, working on building sites, and eventually

rented a farmhouse. Things looked up when Fred
began to teach English through the chamber of
commerce to small groups of businessmen.
Although there are other expats living in the
area, Fred and Ingrid were determined not to live
an unintegrated, expat life. It took two years before they
were able to converse properly in French.
It was still quite isolating though, as village life was
very settled. In one place there were only five families and
they were not especially welcoming to outsiders, Fred
remembers, looking back on those first years.
Work life improved in the late 80s with the dawn of the
in Avignon has since closed.

The old farmhouse has stones marked with the date
1649. Theres a field out the front with walnut trees,
cherries, almonds, olives.
With the children grown up their son now lives in
Ireland, while their two daughters live nearby it was time
for Fred to rekindle his passion for music; this time,
internet, and Fred, who later worked with computers, was
however, not playing but organising. A few of us had been
able to take on projects from home as a programmer on
asked by the commune to help out with the staging of
numerous software projects.
a jazz concert one year, and we realised we could bring our
And so we bought an old farmhouse in 1996. Its out in
more professional expertise to the task and organise things
the country next to a wine domaine, which was once the
better. So we formed Jazz dans les Vignes. The founders
property of the president of the tribunal of Orange, but was
included the president of Jazz dans les Vignes, Jean-Pierre
being run as a care home for the outpatients of a hospital in
Blanchard, a former banker and music lover, who was then
Avignon at the time, explains Fred, adding that the hospital
running the tabac in the village a handy source of gossip
completefrance.com
This page, from top:

musicians playing at
one of the Jazz dans
les Vignes venues in
Gigondas; Fred and
Ingrid (third and
fourth from left) and
their family at home
in Travaillan
LIFESTYLE
SETTING UP AN ASSOCIATION
Freds dos and donts
Do set up the association properly at the start, even if

it is only a small local group, as it allows it to grow.
Do have regular meetings and remember to keep
minutes as it helps organisation.
Dont pay in cash and make sure everything is
declared for your records.
Dont forget to hold an annual general meeting
where the board is elected.
For how to get started, visit www.associations.gouv.fr
and recruits. He and Fred had also played together in a local

band. Two wine domaine owners, a care home assistant
Meeting the people who

come to the concerts,
spending the evening with
them I really enjoy it
and a jazz fan completed the core group responsible for

founding the music event.
Jazz dans les Vignes is run as an association, as Fred
explains: Under the association law of 1901, associations
funds and had to work hard to obtain grants. The first

commitment of money was from the town hall.
In the first year, they arranged an evening with food and
are relatively easy to set up as non-profit organisations. Im
music in the ramparts on top of the hill at Cairanne. But a
called the vice-president and Im in charge of all the
summer thunderstorm had the musicians rushing to load
technical equipment, but basically its because Im the only
the hired equipment into the vans and half the audience
one who knows how to plug anything in, he jokes. I
scurrying for shelter in the nearby wine cellars. As this was
wouldnt want to have the responsibility of being president
where the wine was stored, the evening ended cheerily with
as Im not that keen on paperwork.
the mayor agreeing to try again the next year. The
Associations can be formed with a minimum of two

people, and must be registered at either the prfecture or the
sous-prfecture as well as with the Journal Officiel, the
association has grown steadily since then and has even been
able to invest in essential sound and lighting gear.
We have about 15 active members, who pull together to
governments official publication where all new associations
do the different jobs necessary, Fred explains. They receive
are listed. An association is more than just a social club, as
sponsorship from local mairies as well as from the region.
its able to have a bank account, ask for subsidies, request
The costs of printing the brochure are off-set through
membership fees and carry out finacial transactions.
advertising, but then there are additional expenses, such as
At the beginning we also set out the aims of the
running the bus, buying equipment, paying travel costs
association and wrote out the statutes, says Fred. Our first
and, of course, paying the musicians and ticket sales
challenge was financial because we started off with no
would not cover the entire annual budget.
These pages,
clockwise from
above: Fred and
Ingrids farmhouse
home in Travaillan;
the vineyards of
Cairanne; a soundcheck in the
sunshine; Fred
shares a toast
completefrance.com
MUSIC FESTIVALS
IN FRANCE
Jazz Vienne
26 June
The Roman amphitheatre in the
11 July
town of Vienne, in the Isre
department, makes for a splendid
venue. As well as the annual summer festival,
which this year features Pharrell Williams and
Maceo Parker, there are also jazz concerts
held all year round.
www.jazzavienne.com
Festival de Montignac
27 July
Taking place in Dordogne, right
2 August
next to the Lascaux caves, the
international music and dance
festival is the 35th in the events history.
Expect performances from countries as
far afield as Colombia, Tibet and Togo
among others.
www.festivaldemontignac.fr
Jazz in Marciac
27 July
This international jazz festival in
16 August
Marciac, a bastide town in Gers, is
now in its 38th year. This year it
features evenings with Wynton Marsalis and
Lisa Simone, daughter of Nina.
www.jazzinmarciac.com
Throughout the year, they stage a series of evenings in

different wine domaines, and at the end of July/beginning
of August, theres a three-day festival of concerts using a
bespoke mobile stage, which was built by one of the
members and unfolds from a caravan. Five of this years
concerts are in Freds neighbouring village of Cairanne,
including one held in the cave cooprative. Its now become
an annual fixture that is held at the end of the season in
November, and is the moment to swap stories and
hopefully celebrate a successful vintage. After 12 years of
practice, the programme for concert day has become a
well-oiled routine that sees an hour and a half of music,
followed by a wine-tasting, canaps, and a chance to chat
with the musicians. Although a lot of wine domaines would
such as La Velle, who qualifies as jazz royalty
like to hold concerts, not all of them are able to provide
since her mother danced at the Cotton Club and her father
weather cover in case of storms that said, there is no
played guitar for Nat King Cole.
shortage of vineyards in this Ctes du Rhne area, which
Jazz and wine, it seems, have played more than their
includes such venerated appellations as Chteauneuf-du-
part in Freds life in France combining the two began as a
Pape, Gigondas, and Vacqueyras. And the bands? We book
sociable idea, with roots that soon took hold: Weve
a variety, from free jazz, to groups playing old standards, to
become a bunch of mates getting together to share our
a more Django style. We like to educate the audience a bit
interest in music, says Fred. Theres always a glass of wine
and throw in a surprise or two, but to keep the audience
or two at meetings, and it definitely connects you to a wider
happy, we have to stay a bit close to the middle of the road,
group. Meeting the people who come to the concerts,
says Fred.
spending the evening with them I get to share my stupid
This years programme features Trio Ricardo Herz from
completefrance.com
English jokes I really enjoy it. Otherwise I wouldnt have
Brazil and Romanian quartet Costel Nitescu, while
lasted 13 years. Its been an enriching experience.
highlights from previous years have been American singers
www.jazzdanslesvignes.fr
LA MAISON
This month: Why one expat couple moved to Hrault to run a boutique chambres dhtes;
try a recipe for souffl au fromage; wines to match and gardening in France
A desire to slow down the frenetic pace of their busy city lives led Rob Budden and his partner Jason Clifford to bite the bullet
and move to the south of France. The couple bought and renovated a 19th-century maison vigneron, situated in the heart of the
village of Mze, transforming it into Mze Maison, a stylish boutique chambres dhtes. With Jasons wealth of experience as an
interior designer, furnishing and decorating the property came easy the couple married carefully chosen antique pieces with
more modern furnishings and accessories, creating a relaxing haven for all who stay there.
Read on for more about how the couple created their luxury boutique chambres dhtes
languedoc-roussillon chambres dhtes
TIME OUT
A lifelong connection to France and a quest for a
more relaxed pace of life, led Londoner Rob Budden
to Languedoc-Roussillon, where he and partner
Jason Clifford now run a stylish luxury chambres
dhtes, as Anna McKittrick discovers
ts been a busy, exciting, and most definitely

life-changing two years for Rob Budden and
his partner Jason Clifford, who swapped
London life to fulfil their dream of running a
luxury chambres dhtes in the south of France.
Its no accident that Rob ended up moving
across the Channel, as the former Financial Times
journalist has had a close connection with
France, and Languedoc-Roussillon in particular,
since he was a child.
Rob explains: I first came to the village of
Mze with my family, when I was about six. We
went on holiday to the resort of Cap dAdge and
then ventured a bit further inland and
discovered the village. We were living in Belgium
at the time, and when my parents saw a little
one-bedroom house for sale, they decided to
buy it, as they thought wed be coming to the
south of France a lot.
Since then, Rob has been coming down to
the picturesque village most years of his life,
it, but at that point property prices

had corrected a little bit so it was
certainly cheaper than I thought it
was going to be, remembers Rob,
who went on to purchase the
village house with the idea of
transforming it into a boutique
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chambres dhtes business.
XSQHZDYHQXHV IRU
5RE%XGGHQ
The property, situated in the
heart of Mze, dates from the
1800s and was originally built as a
maison vigneron by the owners of nearby
window tax in the 1930s, I think theyd shut off a
Chteau de Girard, who had several residences
couple of the French windows that open on to
in the village to house their vineyard workers.
the balconies, so we reopened those. We put in
After being developed by the previous owners
wooden, French-style windows that mirror what
in the 1970s, it hadnt been touched since, and
the original ones would have looked like so
was in much need of some TLC when Rob and
theyve got espagnolette latches. We didnt want
Jason took on the project.
to put in anything that wouldnt have been in
From the outset, the pair had a clear vision of keeping with the buildings history, says Rob.
what they wanted to do once they got the keys
The previously unused loft space was
to the property, as Rob explains: Within about
converted into two of the four en-suite guest
rooms, but deciding how to adapt the space
for modern living proved to be a trickier
element of the building project. It took months
of thought. It was much more challenging,
particularly because there were massive beams
we had to work around, remembers Rob, who
employed the services of local builders to carry
out the work to create a home that
harmoniously welcomes guests and provides
three seconds of seeing the sitting room for the
living space for the couple.
first time, Id already decided that I wanted to
With three London house renovations
take down certain walls, and put the fireplace
under his belt, albeit on a much smaller scale,
and sitting room where the kitchen was. We
Rob was no stranger to managing building
wanted to sympathetically restore it and return
projects, and says the key is getting quality
it to how it would have been, while adding
workmen. He was lucky to have a connection to
modern conveniences.
local builders he knew were good, as his parents
The first element of the building project
had refurbished their property about five years
involved ripping out the renovations from the
previously. The builder has been renovating
1970s to open up the property and bring back
properties in Mze for about 40 years. He
the original period features that had either been
doesnt just know how these old houses are put
concealed or removed over the years.
together; in most of the houses, he knows who
We exposed a lot of beams that were
lives in them and has done work on them.
hidden under square-tiled false ceilings, added a
Being on the ground in France, without the
marble fireplace and put in some parquet
confines of a 9-5 job, made project-managing
flooring on the main sitting room floor. With the
the build a much easier task than previous
We exposed a lot of beams,

added a marble fireplace, and
put in some parquet flooring
from school holidays as a child to visits at Easter,
Christmas or in the summer with friends and
his partner Jason.
It was during what turned out to be a
life-changing holiday to Mze in April 2013 that
Rob spotted the house of his dreams for sale.
The property wasnt a new discovery for Rob,
whod in fact had his sights on the charming
house for many years.
When you live somewhere, theres always a
house you like the look of and this was one Id
always admired, so I couldnt believe it when I
saw a cardboard vendre sign hanging off one
of the balconies.
I suggested we go and have a look, not
really thinking I was going to go ahead and buy
completefrance.com
LA MAISON
These pages, clockwise from bottom left:

breakfast is served; calm colours lend a classic touch in
one of the bedrooms; Mze harbour; outside the
property; the sitting room; olive trees at the front door
renovations had been. When I was doing up

houses in London, I literally had to make
decisions as I rushed into work, so it was all a bit
mad. With this project, weve had plenty of time
to think, and we could really keep on top of
progress, says Rob.
When it came to deciding the decor of the
property, it was Jasons talented creative streak
and experience of working as an interior
designer, that guided the style of the property.
While much of the inspiration for the interiors
was down to Jasons instinctive design nous,
they also used the visual tool Pinterest to gather
ideas for everything from radiators to windows
in order to create the look that seamlessly
blends old and new.
Some of the pieces we bought new, some
we had already, and a lot we picked up at
antique shops or brocante markets, says Rob,
who says theyve always been interested in
sourcing second-hand finds.
While the trend for brocante hunting has
completefrance.com
languedoc-roussillon
chambres dhtes
Living here, you do start to

slow down. Youve got more
time to talk to people
become more popular in the past decade, Rob

says its still possible to unearth bargains. There
are fewer to be found now, and the prices have
moved, but you can still pick up gorgeous
mirrors or lights for very little money.
There are quite a few antique shops in
nearby Pzenas, and weve had quite a bit of fun
buying stuff there, and every month or so there
are antique fairs in Montpellier and Bziers.
They have married these antique finds with
more modern accents to create a unique mix
and match style in the rooms, which exude
luxurious chic while offering a practical base for
guests looking to explore the department.
Since opening for business last year, Mze
completefrance.com
Maison has welcomed guests from all over the

world, and the couple are keen to share their
love of the region with others. Its not like the
Riviera with its super yachts; it is very authentic
and friendly round here, says Rob, who hosts an
evening apritif of drinks and nibbles; providing
the perfect opportunity to chat to guests about
the diverse array of activities on offer in
Languedoc-Roussillon, from swimming in the
nearby tang de Thau lagoon, to visiting the
many vineyards for which the region is famous.
The relaxed pace of life in Mze proved to be
a big pull for relocating and Rob and Jason
enjoy living within close proximity of the
harbour, beach and the market, which can be
seen from their sitting room balcony.
We love going to the market. When youre
living in a big city, and working very hard, you
dont have much time to cook, so its really nice
to be able to wander leisurely round the market,
linger over a coffee, pick your produce and get
to know the sellers, enthuses Rob, who has
been getting his university-level French back up

to speed since moving.
The couple have easily adapted to the
lifestyle shift that living in Languedoc-Roussillon
brings, and when they go back to London, they
are amazed at how fast-paced life is and how
impatient people are.
Living here, you do start to slow down. We
are always busy, but its not always running
round like a maniac, its just a little bit more
relaxed. Youve got more time to talk to people
or enjoy that alfresco espresso on the square,
and in the summer, I try and swim in the
lagoon everyday.
Its clear that Rob and Jason are in their
element since moving to France. Not only did
they have great fun bringing the historic and
characterful property back to life, but it has also
given them the work/life balance they so craved,
and they are now relishing their new jobs as
owners of Mze Maison.
www.mezemaison.com
Flavours of France
SOUFFL AU FROMAGE
This twice-baked cheese souffl is perfect for a summertime lunch,

with a delicious glass of wine to match
BISTRO CLASSICS
Serves 6
z 50g mixed salad leaves
60g butter, plus extra for greasing
z 75g plain flour
z 50g walnuts, toasted and
z tsp Dijon mustard
roughly chopped
z salt and pepper
DRESSING
z 500ml milk
z 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
z 4 large eggs, separated
z 2 tsp cider vinegar
z 125g Saint Agur or Bleu dAuvergne z 1 tsp Dijon mustard
z 1 tsp sugar
blue cheese, crumbled
z 60g freshly grated Parmesan cheese z salt and pepper
z
1 Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan. Lightly grease six 200ml ramekins; dust
inside with 2 tbsp of the grated Parmesan and transfer to a deep baking tin.
2 Melt the butter in a small saucepan, then add the flour, mustard, salt and
pepper. Stir well until the mixture comes together this will almost be
immediate and beat over a low heat for one minute.
3 Gradually pour in the milk, whisking constantly until the mixture comes
to the boil. Simmer very gently for two minutes, stirring until thickened.
Cool for five minutes, then beat in the egg yolks one at a time. Stir in the
blue cheese and half the remaining Parmesan, and transfer to a large bowl.
4 In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form. Fold a
spoonful into the cheese mixture to loosen slightly, and then fold in the
remaining whites until evenly combined. Spoon into the prepared
ramekins in the baking tin, and run a knife around the edges.
5 Pour boiling water into the baking tin to come half way up the sides of
the ramekins. Transfer to the oven and bake for 20 minutes until risen and
golden brown. Remove the souffls from the baking tin and leave to cool.
6 Run a small palette knife around the edges of the ramekins and invert
the souffls into a greased baking dish. Scatter over the remaining
Parmesan and bake for 15 minutes until golden. Meanwhile, whisk the
dressing ingredients together. Arrange the souffls, salad leaves and
walnuts on serving plates and drizzle over the dressing. Serve at once.
flavours of france
THIS MONTH: Souffl au fromage cuit deux fois

Louise Pickford reveals how to get the perfect rise every time
makes the light, cloud-like dish a breeze for
The word souffl comes from the French

verb souffler, which means to blow,
or to puff up
dinner parties, as the first cooking can be
souffl a lovely rich but not overtly blue
souffl department, Id still recommend a
done a day ahead, and the souffls can then
cheese flavour. I also prefer to use a less
couple of tips when cooking this and other
be finished off just before serving, as they
robust blue cheese such as Saint Agur.
souffls. Make sure you grease the insides of
bounce right back up on the second cooking.
However, if you are a true blue cheese
the ramekins well (and in this case, dust
aficionado, then by all means substitute with
evenly with Parmesan too). Once the mixture
Roquefort; Ill leave it up to you.
is in the ramekins, run a knife around the
nlike its once-baked cousin, the best

thing about souffl au fromage cuit
deux fois (twice-baked) is that you
dont need to worry about it sinking. This
The word souffl comes from the French

verb souffler, which means to blow or to
puff up, and although this particular souffl
Often, a twice-baked souffl is served
edge before the souffls go in the oven, as this
is left to cool, it is made in exactly the same
covered with cream and extra cheese,
will ensure they rise evenly. Finally, dont be
way as if was to be served straight from the
especially in the winter months when we
tempted to open the oven before the
oven. It begins with a roux sauce where
hanker for comfort food. I prefer it as it is
designated time, for a lighter end result.
butter and flour, and then milk are cooked
here, a lighter, more summery dish served
together until thickened. The egg yolks, blue
with a salad of mixed leaves, toasted
cheese and Parmesan are then stirred in, and
walnuts and a slightly sweetened mustard
finally, whisked egg whites are added in
and cider vinegar dressing. This balances
order to lighten the mixture.
the richness of the souffl perfectly. It is
You can use any type of cheese to flavour
ideal as a starter course, or it could just as
the souffl, and this varies seasonally as well
easily be served as a light lunch with some
as regionally in France. I have opted for a
delicious crusty bread.

Despite the ease of this recipe and there
combination of blue cheese and grated
being nothing to worry about in the sunken
Parmesan, as I find this gives the finished
Louise Pickford is a food writer and stylist

with more than 25 cookbooks to her name.
She lives in Charente with her food and
lifestyle photographer husband Ian Wallace.
ON THE MENU NEXT MONTH...

... ITS TARTE AUX ABRICOTS
Enjoy the best of the summers seasonal produce with
a slice of this classic French dessert.
What to drink
Matt Walls suggests three wines to accompany souffl au fromage cuit deux fois
PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING SNAP AND STIR
Marquis de Pennautier Vin de

Pays dOc Viognier 2014
(9.99 or 7.49 for two until 31
August, Majestic)
Jean-Luc Colombo Ctes-duRhne Blanc La Redonne 2013

(12.99, Waitrose)
The Viognier grape originally comes

If theres one type of food that can
from the Rhne Valley, but is now
produce the most divine and
planted all over the world. Unlike
disastrous wine matches, its
Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc,
cheese. Different types call for
grape varieties which have found
specific styles of wine, and when it
worldwide success, Viognier rarely
comes to blue cheese, sweet wines
performs as well as it does on home
often work well. An apricot-flavoured
turf. It can be heavy and overly
white like Sauternes would normally be a good
alcoholic when grown in the wrong places.
option, but it would be too sweet and luscious if
Rhne stalwart Jean-Luc Colombo makes this
the cheese is prepared in a souffl.
delicious example that retains a sense of freshness
The rich Viognier grape also offers stone fruit
alongside its classically full, ripe character. Its
aromas but is usually dry, despite its rounded
blended with one third Roussanne, another local
texture, making it a more balanced match. The
Rhne grape, which gives the
impressive Chteau de Pennautier in
wine a touch of pear
Cabards, in the Languedoc, has been
and honey alongside
Matt Walls
in the de Lorgeril family since 1620,
the ripe apricot
writes about wine,
and this Viognier is a honeysucklefruit, that would
runs tastings and works with
scented, medium-bodied example
work well with
restaurants to create wine lists.
that is good value on promotion.
this dish.
He blogs at www.mattwalls.co.uk
Domaine Franois Villard Les

Contours de Deponcins 2012
(22.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd)
The village of Condrieu is the
original home of Viognier; a jumble
of steep, corrugated granite terraces
at the northern tip of the Rhne wine
region. The terrain makes for
back-breaking work, and plantings
of the variety nearly died out
completely in the 1950s.
Thanks to a dedicated group of growers, it
was brought back from the brink and is now
flourishing. Condrieu is one of the worlds
greatest, most distinctive white wines.
Unfortunately for us, it has prices to match.
Franois Villard is one of the masters. This
particular wine, however, is made from vines that
lie outside of the official Condrieu demarcated
area, so is similar in style but not quite so pricey.
Its rich and concentrated, with fresh, juicy peach
and ripe apricot fruits with a touch of almond. It
would make a luxurious match for the souffl.
and tweets @mattwallswine.
completefrance.com
LA MAISON
Avant gardening
An artistic gem of a garden on the French Riviera draws Sue Bradley south this month,
while at home its time to harvest shallots
This organisation exists to promote art
he Chteau de la Napoule on
secret garden overlooking the sea, and a large
the French Riviera is the
area punctuated by crisply clipped hedges
that serves the greater good by preserving
remarkable legacy of a wealthy,
and evergreen shrubs.
the work of the Clews, hosting exhibitions,
artistic and, many would say,
While the Clews were at the chteau, they
residencies and workshops, and encouraging
had the gardens planted with green and
new talent. A notable example of this is
white-coloured specimens, which meant that
Belgium sculptor Serge van de Put whose
and his wife Marie acquired the ruins of a
they remained the same both in winter and
giant bull elephant, Dumbo, created from
medieval fortress in 1918, and spent almost
summer. The gardens were also populated by
recycled rubber, stands at the entrance.
20 years working with architects to rebuild it.
birds with white plumage, such as marabou
eccentric American couple.
Sculptor and painter Henry Clews Junior
Over that time, they restored two original

towers and also added a turreted gatehouse,
The initials MC, HC and MMM are

strewn throughout the chteau. The latter
storks and white peacocks.

Both the chteau and its grounds provide
refers to the magic, mirth and mystery that
tall ramparts and terraces overlooking the
the perfect backdrop for Henrys fantastical
the Clews sought to create both in and
beautiful bay of Cannes.
sculptures of animals, people and mythical
around their private kingdom, where,
Meanwhile, Marie assumed the role of
creatures, which add to the special tone and
dressed in historic costumes, they threw
landscape architect and drew up plans for the
atmosphere of the place. This quirky artistic
lavish parties for European aristocracy and
four acres surrounding the chteau.
tradition continues to this day, now under
American expats during the 1920s and 1930s.
the custodianship of the La Napoule Art
Today, their land of make-believe continues
alle, off which can be found smaller gardens,
Foundation, set up by Marie in 1951, some 14
to delight many who step into their world.
such as a flower bed with a Venetian well, a
years after her husbands death.
www.chateau-lanapoule.com
At the heart of her design is a large central
Keep an eye on
hanging baskets, tubs
and troughs during the hot
summer months and water
well during hot dry spells.
The best time to water your

plants is either early in the
morning or late in the
afternoon when the suns
rays are less severe.
Pick vegetables when

they are young and
tender, particularly
courgettes, which can turn
into marrows within days.
Ensure continuous
flowers by making
sure to deadhead
perennials, as well as
bedding plants.
Give house and

conservatory plants
a breather by taking
them outside during
warm weather.
completefrance.com
VITO VAGALI; FOTOLIA
THINGS TO DO IN THE GARDEN THIS MONTH
au jardin
In season
SHALLOTS
July is the month to harvest shallots, a member of the onion family
with a distinctive flavour thats a staple of French cuisine.
This vegetable is easy both to grow and store, which means its
possible to ensure a ready supply to last throughout the year.
Most gardeners choose to grow shallots from immature bulbs
which are known as sets, as they tend to mature quickly and are
better suited to colder areas.
These simply need to be pushed into a well-worked and fertile
soil in a sunny spot from mid-March, spaced at around 25cm apart
with 40cm left between rows. Afterwards water the ground around
them well during dry spells and hoe regularly to keep weeds at bay.
Shallots are ready to harvest when their leaves start to turn
yellow. At this stage, dig them up and leave to dry in the sun before
storing them in bags or trays.
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases affecting shallots, which
include birds digging up freshly planted bulbs a problem
remedied by the use of netting and fungal diseases such as onion
white rot and onion downy mildew.
Great shallots for flavour include Pikant, while Pesandor is long
and slender and good for slicing. Golden Gourmet is a particularly
heavy yielding cultivar.
BLOG
My French garden
British expat Maggie Bryant and her husband Roger moved from Germany to a small
hamlet in Calvados in Normandy 19 years ago. They renovated their house and then
turned their attention to the garden, all of which Maggie documents in her blog
What was your garden like?
It was love at first sight when
we viewed the house in 1996.
The attractive walled garden
was quite overgrown, but
straightaway I could see roses,
wisteria, clematis, hydrangeas
and apple and pear trees
growing against the east-facing
wall. The large plot to the rear of
the house was like a jungle
though, covered in places with
clumps of bushes and shrubs
tangled up in brambles and
weeds. Finally, enclosed on two
sides by a three-metre
high laurel hedge was
a neglected
vegetable patch.
How have you
developed it?
For the first couple of
years we simply
maintained the garden as it was,
completefrance.com
but once the house renovation

was finished we turned to
improving the outside.
Trees and bushes were cut
back and some removed
completely, although we did
keep the ancient apple trees as
they were so picturesque. Once
several lilac trees had been
removed, we uncovered a blue
hibiscus tree, which never fails
to bring a smile to my face
when the pretty flowers appear
in the summer.
A new lawn was laid and
many varieties of
daffodils planted in
the borders, they
bring such joy as
welcome
harbingers of
spring. The old
vegetable garden
was dug over and
replaced with three raised beds
to become the potager Id

always wanted.
What do you grow in
your potager?
I always look forward to spring
when the covers come off and I
can begin to plant out the new
seasons potatoes, curly kale and
courgette and lettuce seedlings
which I buy at the local market.
As the soil begins to warm up I
sow successive rows of dwarf
haricot beans, spinach, rocket
and mesclun salad seeds.
What tips would you give to
someone with a garden in
your area?
The annual Presqule en fleurs
show in May at the Chteau des
Ravalet in Cherbourg is a
wonderful source of information
for gardeners of all levels and
great for inspiration.
What do you enjoy most

about the garden?
There is really nothing nicer on
a summers evening than to go
out into the potager and pick a
selection of baby salad leaves to
enjoy with dinner.
normandylife.blogspot.
co.uk
ARE YOU A
KEEN GARDENER?
Email us at editorial@livingfrance.com
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LES PRATIQUES
Youve dreamed the dream, now get the expert advice; financial, legal and
property solutions from some of the best in the business
60
Property and currency news
Get the latest stories from the French

property scene, including sales of new-build
properties, plus a currency update
66
The promised land
Its important to be aware of the legal

implications when renting out spare land.
Jean-Paul Vovor outlines the key requirements
62
Three of a kind
We select three new-build properties,

from an Alpine leaseback apartment to a
holiday villa in the south-west
68
Warm welcome
Property rental expert Glynis Shaw

gives her advice for those thinking of letting
their second home to holidaymakers
64
Ask the experts
Your questions answered by our

professionals. This month: long-term property
rental, managing your land and a PACS query
70
Guide to the driving test
If youre living in France and want to

learn to drive, read up on the process of
passing the test with Kate McNallys guide
LES PRATIQUES
Property news
Whether youre planning your move to France, or are already living there,
we bring you the latest from the world of French property
NEWS IN BRIEF
Enquiries made
through the France
Property Shop
website rose by
9.94% in April,
leading a trend in
the market. France
accounted for
3.09% of enquiries
on The Move
Channel website in April, pushing
it up to sixth on the list of popular
destinations. Meanwhile, the location list from
Rightmove Overseas showing the biggest
increase in searches on their website in April
included the Corrze and Lot departments,
alongside Collioure and Sarlat-la-Canda.
www.francepropertyshop.com
www.themovechannel.com
www.rightmove.co.uk/overseas-property
Fancy your own piece of Normandy land for
just 1/m2? This bargain price has been set by
the village mayor of Champ-du-Boult in a bid
to attract new inhabitants. Fewer than 500
people currently live in this corner of the
Calvados countryside those who do buy
the land will be required to build homes to
live in, rather than for use as a holiday home.
www.champduboult.com/la-mairie
Peak performance
1.1% and chalet prices increasing by 0.6% in
British. The average age of buyers was 45 and
close, property agents have noted a
the same period.
the average purchase price was 622,320,
positive season in the Alpine property
According to the report, the Mont Blanc
with a deposit of 251,715, showing an
market driven largely by affordable mortgages
and Trois Valles areas saw the largest
increase of around 200,000 on figures from
and favourable GBP/EUR exchange rates.
increase 2% and 1.8% in the first quarter of
the 2014 ski season.
In their second Alpine Report, estate
2015, and 2.4% and 4.7% in the year to March
Although sales of Alpine properties tend
agents Leggett Immobilier note that the prices
2015 respectively. Only one area saw a fall in
to peak in the winter months, there has been
of ski properties in the Alps increased by 0.7%
prices the Massif dAravis, where prices fell
much empasis on them as a year-round
in the first quarter of 2015, consolidating a rise
by 2.1% in the first quarter of 2015 and by
investment John Busby of French Private
of 0.1% in the previous quarter, and resulting
1.9% in the year to March 2015.
Finance stated that demand is expected to
in a rise of 0.2% in the year to March 2015.
Mortgage specialists French Private
remain healthy for 2015 as the excellent
This increase was reported across all property
Finance have conducted research on buyers
mortgage conditions and weak euro continue.
types, with house prices rising 0.2% in the
of Alpine property in the 2015 season, and
first quarter of 2015, apartment prices rising
have discovered that 77% of buyers were
www.frenchprivatefinance.com
completefrance.com
FOTOLIA; DREAMSTIME
s the 2014/15 ski period draws to a
property news
CURRENCY NEWS
In with the new

It was a strong end to 2014 for new-build properties, with
an increase in sales in the final quarter of the year,
according to the Fdration Promoteurs Immobiliers (FPI).
During the fourth quarter of 2014, 23,900 new-build
properties were reserved; an increase of 3.4% on the
same quarter in 2013. This contrasts with the
performance of new-builds during the first nine months
of 2014, however, reservations were still down by 3.9% in
2014 compared to 2013. The improvement in sales has
been put down to the effect of the Loi Pinel, which offers
a tax rebate of up to 21% to those purchasing buy-to-let
properties and, unlike its predecessor the Loi Duflot,
allows owners to let their property to family members
and still receive the rebate.
www.fpifrance.fr
UK elections revive the pound

Charles Murray, of FC Exchange,
highlights the financial trends for this
month at home and in France
In the last six to eight months the markets have been fixated with Greeces
ability to stay in the eurozone, and if the EU and the IMF (International
Monetary Fund) can do enough stop a Grexit and stop the potential collapse
of the euro. Throughout April this pairing had been regularly testing 1.40
interbank levels, as talk between Greece and EU officials continued to show
very little in the way of a compromise, while the threat of Greece running out
of money has kept euro confidence at record lows.
As Greece struggled to meet debt repayment dates, the euro began to be
guided by the uncertainty that the country would default, and talks of further
bailouts were then firmly back on the agenda. Meanwhile, the pound was
benefiting from the euros weakness, and talk of raising the interest rates as
early as November 2015 kept the pound well supported. It wasnt until the end
of April that the pound came under considerable selling pressure, as the
prospect of a hung parliament was considered as a possible outcome of the
2015 UK General Election, creating a 4% drop for GBP/EUR.
The UK General Election provided much of the impetus for financial
PICK E
OF THTH
MON
movement this month. Prior to the voting process on 7 May, the suggestion of
another coalition was deemed likely, once again creating an unsettled
government. With opinion polls showing no clear winner, the nation awoke on
8 May to the unexpected news that the Conservatives had won an overall
majority. This instantly pushed the GBP/EUR rate up by 2.5%, as the pound
pushed away the uncertainty of a coalition, with markets quickly switching
their attention back on to Greece.
Looking forward, the economic recovery in Europe is clear to see, all be
it very gradual. Recent figures showed that the eurozone economy grew by
0.4% in the first three months of the year, which was the fastest quarterly
growth in nearly two years. The recovery is likely to be muted, as Germanys
economy grew less in the first quarter of this year due to a fall in exports.
FRANCE PROPERTY SHOP

Samantha Khoury of Richard Immobilier has chosen this
eye-catching traditional Aquitaine farmhouse near Lauzun
in the Lot-et-Garonne department as her property pick
this month. On the market for 399,000, the property is in
a great location, situated just minutes from Lauzun and 30
minutes from Bergerac and its international airport. Fully
restored to a high standard, the stone-built farmhouse
with central pigeonnier offers four bedrooms and four
bathrooms. There are also several outbuildings, a
swimming pool and two covered terraces.
www.richardimmo.com
Clients really need to be striking while the iron is hot regards GBP/EUR, as
cautious investors will have noted that the UKs growth forecast for 2015
has recently been downgraded.
www.fcexchange.co.uk
Dont forget to sign up for the weekly newsletter
completefrance.com
LES PRATIQUES
Three of a kind
With an increase in sales of new-build properties at the end of last year (see page 61),
Stephanie Sheldrake chooses three options for consideration
Haute-Savoie,
Rhne-Alpes
191,667
Property developer MGMs latest Alpine offering

is Rsidence Lana in the heart of the village of
Les Carroz dArches. This top-quality chalet
development comprises 66 apartments in a range of
sizes, from one to four bedrooms, and is due for
completion by Christmas 2016. The residence is
located 50 metres from the slopes, as well as being
close to the shops and other amenities. The residence
includes a spacious reception, leisure centre, sauna,
hammam, heated indoor swimming pool and spa
centre. The apartments are available for both
leaseback and outright purchase, starting from
191,667 excluding VAT.
www.mgmfrenchproperties.com
Alpes-Maritimes,
Provence-Alpes-Cte dAzur
These final two remaining one-bedroom apartments

in a new development in Juan-les-Pins have been
reduced to 300,000 from 315,000. The residence is
situated close to the seafront and offers easy access to the
Mediterranean coast. Both apartments have one bathroom
and a balcony; the first is situated on the third floor with
45m of living space and a 4m balcony, while the second
is situated on the fourth floor with 44m living space and a
4m balcony. The apartments each have a fully-fitted
kitchen, shower room and WC, tiled floors, reversible
climate control with air conditioning, electric roller
shutters, as well as secure parking, an elevator and
coded security gates.
300,000
Charente-Maritime,
Poitou-Charentes
354,000
This luxury development of 20 four-bedroom villas

is set in an exclusive gated residence on the edge of a
forest, 500 metres from the village of Saint-Augustinsur-Mer. The villas all have four bathrooms, their own
private pool, terrace, Jacuzzi, private parking and
garden. The residence includes a tennis court, a
ptanque pitch, a sports area and a reception. The villas
come with fitted and equipped kitchens, and there is an
option to buy fully furnished ideal for those who want
to let out the property. There is an onsite management
company for this purpose, and villas are expected to
achieve a net yield of 7.1% (based on 18 weeks rental).
Sale prices for the villas vary from 354,000 to 381,500.
www.leapfrog-properties.com
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LES PRATIQUES
Ask the experts

Whether youre planning your move to France, or are already
living there, our panel of professionals aims to keep you fully
informed with the best advice for every eventuality
LONG-TERM PROSPECTS
We have had a holiday home in France
and utility bills are paid by the tenant.

In terms of the expectations of long-term
since 2005, which weve enjoyed
tenants, the property should be spotlessly
visiting frequently with our family and
clean and tidy, with household appliances in
friends. However, due to recent changes, weve
full working order and serviced where
had to curtail our visits and are now exploring
applicable; additionally, a television and
the options for renting out our property
internet connection are now essential. Quite
long-term. What are the advantages of doing
simply, the better appointed and presented a
this, over offering it up as a short-term rental?
property, the better tenant you attract.
And how much work will we have to carry out to
Before their arrival, tenants should be given
make it fit for purpose? Generally speaking,
a rental agreement stating the monthly rent,
what are the expectations of long-term tenants
dates when payment is due and the security
when it comes to the services on offer?
deposit required (usually one month). Next,
BRUCE MCDONOUGH
make sure you have an itemised list of all the
extras the tenant should expect. In most cases,

Youll be happy to hear the good news
the tenant will pay separately for utilities such
that there is a healthy demand for
as electricity, water, gas or telephone. Make it
long-term rental in France from all
clear how and when you want these to be paid,
booking my first round of viewings with an
over the world. People want a new life, or are
and take meter readings on arrival and
estate agent to show me whats available.
looking to try before they buy, while there are
departure. If you have oil or gas heating, you
Theres one area that I need some guidance with
also younger people coming to the country to
should check the level in the tank with your
first though: when Ive been looking at
work, as well as an increasing number of
tenant on arrival, and arrange for them to fill to
properties online, it seems to be the case that my
newly retired couples wanting to explore
the same level on departure, or you could
budget allows me a greater expanse of
Europe. While letting for holidays may bring in
supply a full tank for them and have them
accompanying land than Id originally factored
about eight weeks high-income rent, it means
leave you with a full tank.
in. Ive never had a house with a lot of land
your property has to be managed, with linen to
If you have a garden that requires attention
be washed, etc, every time a new person
and maintenance, discuss this with your
arrives. Many choose to employ a management
tenant so it is clear who will be responsible,
company, which can absorb income, and still
and if it is to be the tenant, do ensure your
your property may stand unoccupied for
lawnmower is in working order and there is an
several months of the year. Letting long-term,
adequate supply of garden tools.
however, brings in a steady income and can
ANNE CUNNINGHAM-DAVIS
usually be managed by the owner remotely, as

rental periods are normally between six
months and a year. You do not have to worry
about changeover days; your house is looked
after, which is especially important in winter;
LIVING OFF THE LAND
Ive been dreaming of moving to France

for a long time now, and am ready to
take the plunge. Im very excited about
before what are the pros and cons?

JULIAN WILLIAMS
Its true that land in rural France is

cheap and plentiful and when youre
viewing properties, it is easy to be
seduced by the idea of being master of your

own estate! How much land is desirable comes
down to your personal situation, and
maintenance is the big issue.
If the property youre searching for is
intended as a holiday home, consider whether
The experts
ANNE CUNNINGHAMDAVIS is director of
French Locations, a
company specialising in
long-term rentals.
www.french-locations.co.uk
JULIE SAVILL is the

marketing director for
Beaux Villages Immobilier,
specialising in property in
south-west France.
www.beauxvillages.com
ROB KAY is senior

partner at Blevins Franks,
which advises retired
expats on tax and
wealth management.
www.blevinsfranks.com
completefrance.com
ask the experts
not necessarily available to PACS couples, in

particular inheritance rights. The regime of
ownership of assets becomes that of separate
assets (sparation de biens) with rules similar
to the regime between spouses, i.e. they each
continue to separately hold the assets they
owned on entry into the PACS, and own all
assets acquired throughout the duration of
the PACS in separately divisible, equal, 50%
shares. Therefore, on ending the PACS, it is
easy to establish who owns what, and neither
partner has a claim on the others assets.
For income tax purposes, the couple is
assessed for income tax as a household from
the day the PACS agreement takes force. The
situation is unchanged in terms of wealth tax,
as couples cohabiting (concubinage) had to
file a joint wealth tax return even before the
the cost to speed up the process varies from
mower or lazing in a deckchair. Arriving at
department to department.
your retreat to find an acre of waist-high grass
JULIE SAVILL
for French succession tax purposes. Instead
can put a real damper on the first days of your
For more on land ownership, turn to page 66 for
of the 60% succession tax rate applicable to
break. The alternative to consider is to pay
advice from our legal expert.
transfers between non-blood related
someone local to cut the grass on a regular

basis (think 10-15 per hour as a guideline),
CIVIL PARTNERSHIP QUERY
The most important benefit of the PACS is
individuals, inheritances between PACS

partners are now exempt from succession tax.
with a pool and a bit of a garden, then around
2,000m (half an acre) will be ample. The
Dordogne and move there in the next couple of
French succession rules (PACS partners are
easiest option of all is, of course, a village
years. Will our UK partnership entitle us to the
not protected), and thus PACS registered
house with a decent-sized courtyard.
same rights as married couples in France in
individuals must consider the impact of
terms of taxation and succession?
French succession law on their deaths, and
(with chickens, a couple of sheep, a pony for
CATHERINE PARKER
should prepare a will to pass any freely
the kids, plus a good-sized vegetable patch), a
disposable estate to the survivor.
which will add a chunk to the annual costs of

running your second home.
If you want a low-maintenance property
For those with ideas of the Good Life
couple of hectares (five acres) would give you

plenty of scope. A property that sits in the
centre of a larger piece of land also protects
your privacy. At the point of sale, the notaire
will inform the French land agency, SAFER
FOTOLIA
existence of the PACS.
you want to spend your days sitting on a
My partner and I are in a civil
For gifts, the first 80,724 will be tax-free,
partnership in the UK. I have two
and the tax rates are then applied at rates
children from a previous relationship;
between 5% and 45%, as for married couples.
she doesnt. Our dream is to buy a house in the
France recognises civil and same-
The PACS has no incidence on normal
ROB KAY
sex partnerships registered in the

UK as being equivalent to a PACS
(Pacte Civil de Solidarit) in France.

Couples entering into a PACS (and thus
Tax rates, scope and reliefs might change.

Any statements concerning taxation are
based upon our understanding of current
(the Socit dAmnagement Foncier et
UK civil partnerships) undertake to take
taxation laws and practices which are
dtablissement Rural), if the amount of land
care of each other, and certain rights and
subject to change. Tax information has been
attached falls above the local cut-off point.
responsibilities are associated with such a
summarised; an individual is advised to seek
SAFER then has two months to decide if it
contract. While not fully equal to marriage,
personalised advice.
wants to purchase the property to keep the
many French councils treat PACS couples as
land within the farming community. There is
married couples when assigning benefits or
a process to speed this up if you wish to pay.
accommodation. However, there are certain
The cut-off point for the amount of land and
rights that are accorded to spouses that are
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PUT TO OUR PANEL OF EXPERTS?
Email us at editorial@livingfrance.com
LES PRATIQUES
The promised land

aving lived and worked for a few
years in the south of France, with its
open countryside, vineyards and
sunshine, I can easily see why some
people want to buy property with
lots of land. However, land needs looking after,
and it is important to be aware of the
implications if you decide to rent it out to local
farmers, to graze sheep or cut hay.
One of my clients came to me with a
problem he had encountered: he owned a
large plot, which had been farmed for many
years without any formal tenancy agreement
having been signed with the farmer.
He chose this route because did not want
to suffer the constraints of the French farming
land statute (statut du fermage) whereby any
land rented to a farmer is likely to be subjected
to a rural lease (bail rural) for a minimum
duration of nine years, renewable.
My client knew that any agreement on land
larger than approximately 5,000m2 nearly 1.3
acres could be converted into a formal
tenancy, and would therefore be subject to the
statut du fermage: a legal arrangement which
exists in France to guarantee farmers long-term
land access to secure agricultural production.
These objectives have led to the creation of
SAFER (the Socit dAmnagement Foncier et
dtablissement Rural) to facilitate ownership of
land, and the creation of long-term contracts.
The minimum lease duration was set at nine
years, with automatic renewal at the end of the
term. Tenant farmers were also given a right of
first refusal upon the sale of the land farmed
and the right to pass a lease onto any heirs,
who would run the farm in their place making
the land unavailable for a very long period of
time to its owner.
My client did sign a written agreement with
the farmer, whereby he as the landowner
would keep the right to use his land and the
farmer would leave when requested to do so,
with six months notice.
Unfortunately, this written agreement was
useless. The French rural code states that a
tenancy agreement must be in writing, but
where there is no written agreement, verbal
agreements are deemed to be leases made for
nine years, their terms and conditions in

accordance with the standard model of the
agricultural commission (commission
consultative des baux ruraux).
In my clients case, the agreement signed
between the parties was overruled by the
statut du fermage anyway. When my client sent
in his notice to terminate, the farmer
predictably refused to leave, invoking his right
to farm and to pass on the lease to his children
upon his retirement.
The story might have ended differently
should the parties have envisaged any of the
following options:
SMALL PLOT LEASE

When it comes to small plot leases, these are
excluded from the farming land statute upon
the following conditions:
The lease must cover an area of agricultural
land less than a maximum defined locally:
this is usually 5,000m2 but may vary
All the land leased by the farmer from the
same owner shall not exceed the area
mentioned above
The land must not constitute either a farm
(i.e. an autonomous agricultural business) or
an essential part of the business of the
tenant, such as a plot that is surrounded by
land belonging to the tenant or a plot
providing access to a public road.
When these conditions are met, the parties are
not bound by the farming land statute. They
are at liberty to decide the contract terms and
conditions. Six months notice is necessary in
case of a verbal agreement. In case of a written
agreement, the contract terminates on the
date set by the parties.
Finally, it should be added that the small
plot lease status does not apply to land
divided within the last nine years. In practice,
therefore, it would be quite rare to satisfy
these criteria.
CONTRACT WITH SAFER

SAFER is the governmental organisation that
helps start-up farmers have access to land. It
can provide contracts whereby a landowner
allows his land to be used by a farmer for a
limited time, usually three or six years. This can

only be renewed once.
THE CONVENTION DOCCUPATION

PRCAIRE
Both parties are free to arrange the disposal of
the land, the duration, and the notice as they
wish. However, this type of contract is limited
to the following instances:
Allowing the development of properties that
are part of a succession, undergoing judicial
proceedings or whose joint ownership has
been imposed by a court
A temporary extension to the tenancy of a
farmer whose lease has expired or whose
completefrance.com
ILLUSTRATION ANDY ROBERT DAVIES
Considering renting out your spare land? Make sure you

understand your legal position before entering into an
agreement, says Jean-Paul Vovor
renting out your land
Land needs looking

after, and it is
important to be
aware of the
implications if you
decide to rent it out
lease has been terminated without renewal.

The farmers spouse or partner in a French
civil partnership can benefit from this
provision as well
Allowing a temporary operation on land the
main purpose of which is not agricultural
(urban development, etc).
Failing to fall within any of those categories
would mean that in this scenario the statut du
fermage applies.
PRT USAGE
This contract is to be used with the utmost
care. It is not included in the French rural code
but rather in the French civil code, and it is a
completefrance.com
contract whereby an asset is loaned to

someone, for no consideration at all. The
fact that no payment is made means that
the statute does not apply in this case,
because under the terms of article L.411-1 of
the Rural and Maritime Fishing Code, such a
lease must be offered in return for payment
to qualify as such.
In order to use this contract, no payment at
all must be made and the landowner must not
draw any benefit of any sorts from the
agreement. A reimbursement of the taxe
foncire, for example, would be treated as a
payment. Any benefit in kind or services
rendered will equally lead to the reclassification
of the contract as a lease agreement, and

hence will make it subject to the farming
statute. Generally, the intervention of a lawyer
is strongly advisable, as there are many traps
that could lead to a reclassification of the
contract. In practice, it is extremely difficult to
ensure that an arrangement would remain
within the bounds of a prt usage.
The general position is that allowing
another person to use ones rural land in France
is a matter for extreme caution. How the story
ends really depends on the precautions taken
at the outset. The risk of falling under the rigid
statut du fermage is such that consulting a
lawyer is most advisable in this area of law.
It may, of course, prove to be the case, in
some circumstances, that a local farmer would
fully respect any unwritten agreement to
vacate upon request; nevertheless, it is
certainly sensible to consider what might
happen if the farmer did not. Relying on
someones good nature is a somewhat
precarious method of managing legal affairs
and, in my clients case, this meant accepting
that a farming lease had been established.
www.ashtonkcj.co.uk
Jean-Paul Vovor has a Diplme Suprieur
du Notoriat and has been with law firm
Ashton KCJ since 2012. Prior to this, he
worked for more than 15 years in notaires
offices in the Paris area, managing a real
estate department.
LES PRATIQUES
Warm welcome
Careful preparation will ensure that letting out your second home gets off
to a flying start. Glynis Shaw offers some essential advice
f you plan to offer holiday lets at your

beloved second home, you may be feeling
both enthusiastic and a little apprehensive.
This is a big change to make and, as is true
of any venture, the transition will be much
smoother if you make sure that you are well
prepared with a clear plan and realistic
expectations in three key areas: financial,
practical and emotional.
FINANCIAL PLANNING
1
2
3
The number of weeks you need in order to

make a must-have return
generate a nice to have amount
provide the icing on the cake
My tip on pricing is to keep it simple.

Holidaymakers do not like being faced with
complicated extras for laundry, cleaning or
bed linen, so work out your costs and set a
single inclusive price for the week.
Seasonal variations are, of course, expected,
with top rates usually charged for the month
of August and over the Christmas period. But
you may also graduate prices with a second
If you love your property, you can

gain satisfaction from sharing that
enjoyment with others
rate for June-July and September, and then a
further third, lower rate for spring and autumn.
If youre thinking about offering longer winter
lets of a period of a month or more, then these
are usually charged by the month.
PRACTICAL PREPARATION
When it comes to practical preparations, take a
good look round and assess the property as
though seeing it for the first time as a
holidaymaker. Remember that guests want to
feel that they can make the place their own for
the duration of their stay, and they expect
good quality at excellent value.
Make sure that the kitchen is well
equipped with plenty of cutlery and crockery
and that the oven is sparklingly clean. In the
bedrooms, make sure that you provide quality
mattresses with nice bed linen and extra
touches such as lamps and a full-length mirror.

In living areas, the aim is to provide
comfort, personality and colour, but make sure
the space doesnt look busy or cluttered
remove items that are too personal or may be
an accident risk. For leisure, English-language
television channels are important, and a CD
and DVD player, as well as some books and
games, are often a welcome addition. Internet
access is also very important, as guests like to
hook up to Wi-Fi with phones and tablets.
If there is a garden, provide some games or
toys, and if you have a swimming pool, equip
it with loungers and water toys. Ensure as well
that the swimming pool complies with French
regulations for maintenance and safety.
The next practical preparation is marketing,
which it makes sense to do online. In time, you
might want to create your own website, but
completefrance.com
WWW.FRENCHCONNECTIONS.CO.UK
Most owners take the decision to let their

property in order to generate an amount of
income, so finances are paramount, and it is
important to be professional and businesslike
in your planning. You can try taking an
amateurish approach but dont expect
people to book for a second time.
Ask yourself: do you simply want to cover
expenses, or do you want to make a surplus?
Start your financial planning by researching
how much rent you could feasibly get per
week. Be realistic in comparing your property
with others on the market, taking into account
kerb appeal, location, facilities and overall
quality. Then work out how many letting
weeks you need to achieve your target. You
might set expectations at three levels:
get your property ready to let
its quicker, more practical and effective to

advertise on an established listing site.
Advertising is extremely important, so do
plan and budget realistically for your
marketing. Include photography, long-term
hosting on your chosen website, phone calls to
customers, contingencies for promotions like
special offers and last-minute deals to fill any
empty weeks, and any welcoming extras like
wine when your guests arrive.
When planning your advert, try to consider
the expectations of the holidaymaker. Of
course, everyone makes their own individual
interpretation, which means five people could
read your page and each expect something
different from the property. So be very clear in
your statements and description, and aim to
give information that is interesting, informative
and enthusiastic at the same time, and yet
cannot be misconstrued.
Its also good to browse and compare with
the competition. What else comes up when
you search for, say, a three-bedroom house in
the Dordogne, or a seaside apartment in
Normandy? Check how your price and
description compare with other properties,
and think about how you can make your own
more visible. Your lead photo and thumbnail
description are crucial in drawing people in to
discover more and then they really want to
completefrance.com
have the property sold to

them, with further stunning
photographs alongisde an
honest but enticing description.
EMOTIONAL PREPARATION
Some owners find it easy to be detached in
viewing their property as a business, while for
others the change can be quite emotional.
How do you cope with the thought of
strangers sleeping in your bed and delving into
your kitchen cupboards? You can handle this
through both action and attitude.
Take action by doing simple things, such
as keeping separate mattress toppers, pillows
and bed linen for your exclusive use. Put away
your most precious ornaments and photos,
and possibly even cooking bowls and vases.
Make sure you have a good local cleaner and,
if you are going to visit, ensure that the house
has been cleaned and any glitches fixed after
guests depart, and before your own arrival if
you want to use the property.
Try to accept positively the reality of letting,
by deciding that you are now in the hospitality
business and its fine for other people to be
there at certain times. If you love your property,
you can gain satisfaction from the idea of
sharing that enjoyment with others and
receiving some financial benefit. The vast
majority of guests will respond by showing

respect for your home.
Do also pass on to visitors your enthusiasm
for the area by including in your advert and
at the property details of local attractions
and events, such as beaches, markets, festivals
and historic buildings. When guests arrive, they
will be pleased to find maps of the area and
information or recommendations for nearby
restaurants, cafs and bars that you can pass
on as tried and tested.
Finally, it may feel like a big step to enter
the letting business, but rest assured that there
is still a market for self-catering property in
France, with good quality facilities and great
value. Make the presentation of your property
good, conscientiously monitor and reply to
enquiries, and you could do well in your first
year. After that, then you can work on repeat
bookings and recommendations for success
in the longer term.
www.frenchconnections.co.uk
Glynis Shaw is joint MD of French
Connections holiday rentals and property
sales online.
LES PRATIQUES
The Living France
GUIDE TO
Kate McNally throws the spotlight on learning to drive in France

and helps you steer carefully through all the rules and regulations
s anyone who has spent

any time in France will
know, it is not a country
where the authorities
adhere to the KIS (keep it
simple) philosophy. Passing your
driving test is no exception. The actual
test is very much like the two-part
theory and practical exam taken in
the UK. Its just there are rather a lot of
hoops to jump through to get there
and if you should fail at any stage,
potentially a lot of patience required.
REQUIREMENTS
Applicants must be at least 17 years
old and resident in France. There is an
option for a longer learning process
with an identified experienced driver,
known as AAC (apprentissage anticip
de la conduite), which can start from
the age of 15. However, the candidate is not
eligible to sit the practical driving test before
the age of 17.
Candidates must be registered as a learner
driver with the local prfecture (see box on
page 72 for registration documents required to
apply for a drivers licence). Normally, the
driving school takes care of this as part of their
overall package. All candidates must have a
minimum of 20 hours driving lessons with a
registered driving school before they are
allowed to take the practical test.
GETTING STARTED
In France, driving instructors are only allowed
to operate through state-recognised driving
schools. The sector is one of the countrys
protected professions, effectively making it
closed to the free market and competitive
pricing. As a result, lessons are almost double
the price of those in the UK.
The classic driving school (auto-cole) offer
starts at 20 hours of driving tuition (the

mandatory minimum requirement), plus
registration with the prfecture and test
application. The average cost of this package
and therefore of obtaining your French
driving licence; assuming you pass first time
is around 1,300. The recommended number
of hours before taking the test, however, is 40
hours, so most people find their final bill
significantly higher.
Most schools also have a joining fee (frais de
dossier) of varying prices, basically to cover the
administration costs involved in setting up your
file and handling registrations. There is no
actual fee for taking the tests. However, given
the way the system works, by predominantly
providing test places through the driving
schools, most candidates end up effectively
paying via these administration fees. Another
separate fee is often requested for any
subsequent test applications.
Many candidates find they need more than
the 20 minimum hours; for example

if the instructor does not think they
have reached the necessary
standard to pass the test, or indeed
if they fail the test. It is common for
instructors to refuse to put your
name forward if they dont think you
are ready. This is partly to protect
their pass rate, but also, they have a
fixed quota of test applications per
month, and so they will give priority
to those most likely to pass; thereby
avoiding a backlog of applications
for those waiting to retake. (There is
a rather complicated formula by
which the quota of places is
calculated from month to month;
all of which, it could be argued, adds
to an already admin-heavy system.)
It can therefore be several months
before you get a first or second
chance at the test!
There are those who claim that the driving
schools abuse their protected position,
charging excessive fees and prolonging tuition
hours gratuitously. Recent governments have
put reform of the current system on the
agenda, but so far progress is slow and the
driving schools are strongly resistant to any
changes to their favoured status.
In any case, it pays to do your homework
before selecting an auto-cole. The cheapest
per hour may not necessarily mean the best
value for money at the end of the process. And
never pay the whole fee up front. Most schools
offer payment by instalment.
ACCOMPANIED DRIVING
Should more than 20 hours of tuition prove
necessary, there is an alternative cheaper way
to gain the experience required for those aged
18 years or over one that is common practice
in the UK, i.e. to practise with someone you
completefrance.com
FOTOLIA
THE DRIVING TEST
the driving test
know. Known as conduite supervise in France,

the person accompanying the learner driver
must be an experienced driver, who has held a
clean licence for the preceding five years.
The person is registered as the learners
supervisor with the driving school, and must
spend two hours in the car with the learner
and instructor prior to going solo. The learner is
required to complete a minimum of 3,000km
with the accompanied driver within a year, or
1,000km within three months for those who
are keen to get on with it!
There is a consultation with the driving
school instructor half way through and at the
end to validate the process.
FAST TRACK LICENCE

There is also an intensive driving course for
those in a hurry. For the permis acclr, as its
known, candidates take seven hours of lessons
over three days, or three hours per day for two
weeks. The average cost is around 2,000.
FINANCIAL ASSISTANCE
In order to ensure that the relatively expensive
cost of learning to drive in France does not
completefrance.com
All candidates must have a minimum

of 20 hours driving lessons with a
registered driving school
preclude those from more disadvantaged
backgrounds from gaining a licence which in
some rural areas is imperative in order to be
mobile for work the government introduced
what is known as the 1 per day loan scheme
(permis 1 par jour). Under this arrangement,
the state effectively pays the set-up fee and
interest payments for a bank loan which is set
out specifically to pay for driving lessons for
those aged between 16 and 25.
APPLICATIONS
Applications for both the written and practical
exams must be submitted to the local
prfecture. In effect, it is generally always the
driving school that makes the application on
behalf of the candidate, as part of the
above-mentioned quota system.
It is possible to apply direct to the
prfecture, but youll usually find that you have

to wait longer for a place as priority is given to
the driving schools.
THEORY TEST EXAMEN THORIQUE

DU CODE DE LA ROUTE
Most driving schools offer classes to study the
code and, perhaps more importantly, the types
of questions included in the test. You can also
find several online sites that highlight the
subjects that the test focuses on and examples
of questions. Schools usually also provide a
mock test, which replicates exam conditions
and equipment, and will often wait until you
achieve the standard required to pass before
putting you forward for the exam.
Following your application, you will be
invited to sit the exam at a specialist centre on
a set date. You need to take along valid
LES PRATIQUES
DOCUMENTS TO APPLY FOR A DRIVERS LICENCE
proof of identity.
The test consists of 40 multiple choice
questions many using photographs showing
situations that arise while driving and requiring
the driver to make a decision about how to
react and you need to get at least 35 of the
questions right to pass. The theory exam was
simplified in 2010 following an overall review
of the driving test, notably weeding out
ambiguous questions that were seen by many
as unnecessarily misleading. It also added new
questions focusing on courtesy for other road
users, particularly vulnerable users, and respect
for the environment.
Candidates receive their result by post or
email later the same day. If you pass, you have
five years in which to pass the practical test, or
a total of five attempts after five years or five
attempts, you will be required to retake the
theory test.
PRACTICAL TEST EXAMEN DU PERMIS

DE CONDUITE
Again, candidates will be notified in advance
of both the date and place of the exam, and
must provide proof of identity. In larger
conurbations, it is possible to apply to take the
test in a neighbouring community a further
measure that was introduced in 2010 in an
attempt to relieve waiting lists.
The number of examiners was increased a
few years ago as part of measures to reduce
A completed registration form

Proof of identity
Proof of residency
Two passport photos with your name and address on the back
Two stamped-addressed envelopes
For those aged 16 to 25, a copy of your latest census certificate or certificate of
voluntary national service
For those born after 1987, a copy of your School Road Safety Certificate
the amount of time people had to wait

(average waiting time for a test date to come
through in 2010 was five months). Other
measures included reducing the test time from
35 minutes to 32 minutes, enabling each
examiner to carry out a further test per day,
and scrapping the previous compulsory
months wait between initial registration at the
prfecture and taking the theory test.
So, the practical test lasts 32 minutes, with
25 minutes allotted to driving, and the rest to
the two compulsory safety check questions
(one relating to the interior of the car, one to
the exterior) and paperwork. The test is based
on what the French call un bilan de
comptences, which means it simply evaluates
your driving skills to check you are competent
to drive on the roads with no danger to
yourself or others. (Previously, the practical test
was evaluated according to how many errors
were made.)
The test covers various aspects of driving
for example using the controls, road
awareness and driving with respect to the
environment. To pass, a candidate must have a
minimum of 20 points. However, if you make a

serious error, deemed potentially dangerous,
you will automatically fail. Results are posted
within 48 hours via a special service on the
Scurit Routire website (www.securiteroutiere.gouv.fr).
APPRENTICESHIP
Having successfully passed the driving test, you
qualify for what is effectively a probationary
licence for the first two to three years. During
this time, you must display your new driver
status clearly with an A sticker (for apprenti,
similar to the UK L learner driver sticker) on the
back of the car.
New drivers are also only allowed to
accumulate six points on their licence, as
opposed to 12 for experienced drivers, before
losing their licence. However, they are allocated
a further three points after the first year, and
again after the second year.
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LIBERT, EGALIT, FRATERNIT
A closer look at the foundations of French society
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FOTOLIA
GUELLEC-DIGBY & CO
SOLICITORS
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or have succession issues
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with a personal touch
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Email: annie@guellec-digby.co.uk
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LIVING
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FRANCE
MAGAZIN
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LANGUAGE
This month: learn the vocab relating to taking the driving test and have
some fun with our favourite puzzles
French friends
If you live in London and want to meet native
French speakers to improve your spoken French,
take a look at Franglish. The weekly FrenchEnglish evening meet-ups in bars in the city
centre are easy-going meetings organised on a
one-to-one basis in a friendly environment, and
cater for every language level. Participants spend
half the time speaking in English and half the
time in French, with bilingual organisers on hand
to make sure the process runs smoothly. A
session costs 12 (8 for students) with a drink.
Times and venues are listed on the website;
participants must sign up in advance.
www.london.franglish.eu
Twitter fan?
Are you a Twitter user who wants to learn
French? Consider following French Today (@
frenchToday), who send out daily tweets with
interesting French vocabulary and examples of
its use in everyday language. Their website has
downloadable language-learning audiobooks,
including a free two-hour taster version, as well
as details of lessons via Skype.
www.frenchtoday.com
Get the vocab: coller

The verb coller means to stick, or to glue. In driving terms, coller la voiture de
devant means to drive close to the car in front. If you use a computer in France,
coller means to paste (as in copier-coller, to copy and paste). In school, coller
is an informal way of saying to give a detention.
FOTOLIA; ILLUSTRATION RITA STRIK
GIFT OF THE GAB

Despite first glance at its title, Flirting with French is not a book
about how to seduce members of the opposite sex. Instead,
American author William Alexander writes his account of how
the French language has charmed him, seduced him and
nearly broken his heart. Having learnt French at school some 40
years ago, the task of getting under the skin of the French
language is no easy feat, and yet Alexanders tale of his quest to
master the language in order to spend more time in France
makes for a light-hearted and humorous read. Anyone who has
struggled to get to grips with becoming fluent in French will
relate to this book. A recommended buy.
Flirting with French: How a Language Charmed Me, Seduced
Me, and Nearly Broke My Heart, William Alexander
Duckworth Publishers, 9.99
completefrance.com
My favourite
e
French phras
What is your favourite French word or
phrase; perhaps something that has
struck a chord or stayed in your memory?
Crpuscule I think I love this word
because it uses two sounds we dont have
in the English language the French u
and the guttural r. Master those and you
are about there.
Maggie Geal via Facebook
If you have a handy tip for learning French,
please let us know by emailing editorial@
livingfrance.com or contact us on:
twitter.com/
LivingFrance
facebook.com/
LANGUAGE
Drive to succeed
Taking the driving test in France neednt be as intimidating as it might first appear,
with Sylvie Wheatleys vocabulary guide to help you along
Sinscrire et choisir son forfait
Le jour du permis
lauto-cole Damarel Ste, la
Lexaminateur Monsieur
directrice, Madame Damarel reoit
Boisseau explique comment
Simon et sa mre, Mrs Cole.
va se drouler lexamen.
Mrs Cole: Bonjour, je voudrais inscrire
M. Boisseau: Nous allons
mon fils pour quil apprenne conduire.
passer environ 35 minutes en
Il a 17 ans.
voiture. Je vous donnerai les
Mme D: Je peux vous proposer un forfait
instructions suivre. Par quoi
pour 1,000, qui comprend le code,
devez-vous commencer?
cest--dire la partie thorique, plus 20
Sandra: Je rgle mes
heures de conduite et la conduite
rtroviseurs et mon appui-
accompagne pour lapprentissage
tte. Je vrifie que tout le
pratique. Aprs a, sil a besoin dheures
monde a bien attach sa
de conduite supplmentaires, vous
ceinture de scurit.
devrez payer 40 de lheure. Lauto-cole
M. Boisseau: Vous
est ouverte tous les jours, et Simon peut
allez suivre les panneaux
venir faire des examens blancs pour tester
de signalisation en direction
ses connaissances du code de la route
de Narbonne centre ville.
aussi souvent quil le veut.
Au prochain rond-point,
Mrs Cole: Et sans le forfait, a cote
vous allez prendre la sortie
combien en tout?
qui vous permet de
Mme D: Pour le code, il faut compter 400.
rejoindre lautoroute.
Et pour avoir le droit de passer le permis, il
Une leon de conduite
faut payer les heures de conduite, et 190
Jean-Luc est moniteur dauto-cole. Ce matin,
Elle double un camion.
pour sinscrire lexamen. Concernant la
il donne une heure de conduite Sandra car
Lexaminateur lui demande de prendre la
conduite accompagne, Simon devrait faire
elle passe son permis 10h30.
sortie numro 24.
20 heures en auto-cole. Cest obligatoire
Jean-Luc: Tu es prte? Prends le volant!
M. Boisseau: Vous allez entrer sur la route
selon la loi. Pour pouvoir passer son permis
Sandra: Jai peur de me tromper et de rater
dpartementale qui repart vers Ste.
de conduire, il doit avoir roul 3,000km en
mon permis...
un an. Pendant la dure de la conduite
Elle dmarre, passe la premire vitesse mais
laisse passer un cycliste et un piton. Elle
accompagne, il doit y avoir trois rendez-
nappuie pas bien sur sa pdale dembrayage
redmarre quand le feu passe au vert. Elle
vous avec le moniteur dauto-cole. Cela
et le moteur cale.
arrive en ville et freine quand un conducteur
cote 150.
Jean-Luc: Relaxe-toi. a va aller. Tu conduis
ne respecte pas la priorit droite.
Mrs Cole: Tout compte fait, le forfait est plus
trs bien dhabitude! Recommence. Cest
Lexaminateur lui demande de faire sa
avantageux. Le permis obtenu en France
bien, continue tout droit puis au cdez-le-
manuvre, un crneau. Une fois la voiture
sera-t-il valable ailleurs en Europe?
passage, tourne gauche. Change de vitesse
bien gare, Sandra met le frein main.
Mme D: Oui absolument, mais attention de
et noublie pas de mettre ton clignotant!
M. Boisseau: Quelques questions de
rouler du bon ct de la route, et dtre
Arrte ici, le long du trottoir. Nous allons
vrification. De quelle couleur est le voyant
couvert par votre assurance!
attendre lexaminateur.
qui indique au conducteur que le feu de
Vocabulaire
z Un forfait
A fixed-price package deal

z Une auto-cole
A driving school
z Apprendre conduire
To learn how to drive
z Le code (de la route)
All the rules relating to driving

on public roads / the theory
part of the driving test
z La conduite accompagne
Driving under supervision

z Une heure de conduite
A one-hour driving lesson
Sandra sengage sur la voie dacclration.
Plus loin, elle sarrte un feu rouge, et
z Un examen blanc
A mock exam
z Cest obligatoire selon la loi

It is compulsory by law
z Tester ses connaissances

To test ones knowledge
z Le moniteur
The instructor
z Passer son permis

(de conduire)
To take ones driving test
(NB/ passer does not mean
to pass, but simply to take
the test)
z Rouler du bon ct de la route

To drive on the correct side of
the road
z Prendre le volant
To sit at the (steering) wheel
completefrance.com
the driving test
Test your
French
Look at these road signs. What do
they mean? Pick from this list.
Regardez ces panneaux de signalisation.
Que signifient-ils? Choisissez parmi la liste.
A Interdiction de
tourner droite
brouillard arrire est allum?
lexamen du permis de conduire. Avec ce
Sandra: Il est orange.
service vous pourrez voir combien de points
M. Boisseau: Dans quel cas utilise-t-on
vous avez. Je vous rappelle quil faut un
lappel lumineux?
minimum de 20 points pour russir.

M. Boisseau quitte la voiture et Jean-Luc
Sandra: Pour signifier son approche.
ramne Sandra chez elle.
M. Boisseau: Repartons et faites demi-tour.
FOTOLIA
Sandra ralentit en arrivant proximit du
Sandra: Je nai pas fait de fautes liminatoires.
centre de conduite et se stationne.
Je suis plutt contente.
M. Boisseau: Merci beaucoup, Mademoiselle.
Jean-Luc: Et je pense que tu auras aussi les
Le service des rsultats sur le site de la Scurit
points de conduite cologique et de conduite
Routire vous indiquera si vous avez russi
courtoise. Bravo!
z Rater
To fail
G Interdiction de
doubler
B Attention Passage piton
H Aucun vhicule
motoris nest
autoris passer
C Cdez le passage
lintersection
E Stationnement
autoris aprs 18h
I Les conditions de
vitesse maximale sur
lautoroute sont...
F Vitesse limite
J Risque de verglas
D Voie sans issue
Check your answers on page 81
z Le feu passe au vert

The traffic light turns green
z Ralentir
To slow down
z Attacher sa ceinture
z Faire un crneau
To reverse into a parking space
z Russir
To succeed / to pass
z Passer la premire vitesse

To put the car into first gear
de scurit
To fasten ones seat belt
z Se garer
To park
z Une faute liminatoire

A disqualifying mistake
z Lembrayage
z Doubler un camion
To overtake a lorry
z Faire demi-tour
To go back on oneself /
to carry out a U-turn
z La conduite courtoise
The art of driving in a
courteous manner
z Dmarrer
To start (the engine)
The clutch
z Caler
To stall
completefrance.com
z Rgler ses rtroviseurs

To check ones rear and
wing mirrors
50km/h
z Un piton
A pedestrian
LANGUAGE
Five minute French
Test your language skills and improve your vocabulary with these fun French games
LHexagone
LES MOTS CACHS
Z
A
R
If the clue is in French you need to look for the

English equivalent and vice versa its simple
F
N D
N A
G B
G T
N N
H T
H Y
N G
N A
O B
G A
W V
A F
M U
U M
G T
N J
G T
U I
U I
N T
muse
canvas
objet
exhibition
billet
donation
U
S
intressant
cultural
dessin
Use the clues in

English below to
work out the 6
six-letter French
words that all end
in the letter D. The
first one has been
done for you.
lizard (lzard)
fate
chatty
lobster
fugitive
cockroach
WHERE AM I?
Je suis une ville dans le
sud-est de la France, je suis
sur la cte, on me connat
pour ma culture et pour mon
quipe de football.
The perfect match

Match the picture to the correct word
un croquis
une peinture
une sculpture
Je suis une rgion dans

le nord-est de la France, je
suis connue pour mon
caractre germanique,
ma capitale est Strasbourg.
completefrance.com
five minute french
Tongue twisters (les virelangues)
Unscramble the letters to

find four French verbs
1 aarebld
2 usrroei
3 ierrc
4 eifar
Une poule rouge enroue juge la robe rouge du rouge-gorge enrag.

A husky red hen judges the angry robins red dress.
Crossword
1
Across
1 tense (in grammar) (5)
4 acrid, pungent (4)
7 blunder, slip-up (5)
11 reason (6)
13 baking tin OR mussel (5)
14 I will go - J... (4)
16 four (6)
17 flower (5)
19 sorry (6)
20 sky (4)
21 I would go -J... (5)
22 immediately - tout de ... (5)
25 sheets, bed linen (5)
27 checkmate - ... et mat (5)
31 thus, in this way (5)
32 grey, dull (4)
34 tangled, mixed up (6)
35 you must - vous ... (5)
37 Im listening - Je t... (6)
39 kidney (4)
40 free (5)
42 century (6)
43 human beings -
... humains (5)
44 headstrong, obstinate (4)
10
11
12
15
13
16
17
19
22
14
18
20
23
24
25
21
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
35
33
36
34
37
38
39
40
PICTURES FOTOLIA; PUZZLES COMPILED BY EVE MIDDLETON; CROSSWORD BY JAN TODD
43
41
44
42
45
subscription
WIN! ato12-month
Living France
Put your French to the test and complete this months
crossword to be in with a chance of winning a 12-month
subscription to Living France. The closing date for entries is 3 July 2015.
Name
Address
Tel
Across: 8 Ses, 9 Loin de, 10 Maison, 12 Trou, 13 Douche, 14 Tasse, 15 Esprit, 16 Escargots, 20 Appris,
24 Pierre, 25 Oreille, 26 Propre, 28 Lgers, 30 Auditrice, 32 Pauvre, 35 Sant, 37 Parole, 38 Hier,
40 Citron, 41 Pourvu, 42 Ils.
Email
completefrance.com
Down
2 its all the same to me - a
mest ... (4)
3 not at all (3,2,4)
5 to begin, to start (9)
6 water (3)
8 steel (5)
9 raspberry (9)
10 mother (4)
12 ours - les ... (6)
15 empty (plural) (5)
17 fairy (3)
18 factory (5)
23 usefully (9)
24 avoided (5)
26 they own - ils ... (9)
28 cemetery (9)
29 heart (5)
30 outside (6)
33 rice (3)
35 turkey (the bird) (5)
36 bike (4)
38 dish of the day - ... du jour (4)
41 aim, objective (3)
To enter our prize crossword competition, complete the grid

and fill in your details in the coupon below, then send them by
post to: Living France Crossword Competition, Archant House, Oriel
Road, Cheltenham, GL50 1BB quoting reference: CROSSLFJUL15
ANSWERS TO THE MAY ISSUE:
Down: 1 Htres, 2 Soldat, 3 Pneus, 4 Sches, 5 me, 6 Vinaigre, 7 Pois, 11 Ouvrir, 17 Appel, 18 Tirer,
19 Miel, 21 Perdu, 22 Soeur, 23 Flic, 27 Peinture, 29 Gauche, 31 Champs, 32 Preuve, 33 Relle,
34 Coeur, 36 Avis, 39 ne.
The winner of the April crossword is: Nick Moore
45 jacket (5)
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Check your answers on page 81
On the map
Use our detailed map to help plan your route and
understand Frances departmental and regional boundaries
THE DEPARTMENTS
Each of Frances 96 departments is listed below with the departmental capital, or prfecture,
in brackets. The places indicated by this symbol on the map opposite are the regional capitals.
01 Ain (Bourg-en-Bresse)
02 Aisne (Laon)
03 Allier (Moulins)
04 Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
(Digne)
05 Hautes-Alpes (Gap)
06 Alpes-Maritimes (Nice)
07 Ardche (Privas)
08 Ardennes (Charleville-Mzires)
09 Arige (Foix)
10 Aube (Troyes)
11 Aude (Carcassonne)
12 Aveyron (Rodez)
13 Bouches-du-Rhne (Marseille)
14 Calvados (Caen)
15 Cantal (Aurillac)
16 Charente (Angoulme)
17 Charente-Maritime
(La Rochelle)
18 Cher (Bourges)
19 Corrze (Tulle)
2a Corse-du-Sud (Ajaccio)
2b Haute-Corse (Bastia)
21 Cte-dOr (Dijon)
22 Ctes-dArmor (Saint-Brieuc)
23 Creuse (Guret)
24 Dordogne (Prigueux)
25 Doubs (Besanon)
26 Drme (Valence)
27 Eure (vreux)
28 Eure-et-Loir (Chartres)
29 Finistre (Quimper)
30 Gard (Nmes)
31 Haute-Garonne (Toulouse)
32 Gers (Auch)
33 Gironde (Bordeaux)
34 Hrault (Montpellier)
35 Ille-et-Vilaine (Rennes)
36 Indre (Chteauroux)
37 Indre-et-Loire (Tours)
38 Isre (Grenoble)
39 Jura (Lons-le-Saunier)
40 Landes (Mont-de-Marsan)
41 Loir-et-Cher (Blois)
42 Loire (St-tienne)
43 Haute-Loire (Le Puy)
44 Loire-Atlantique (Nantes)
45 Loiret (Orlans)
46 Lot (Cahors)
47 Lot-et-Garonne (Agen)
48 Lozre (Mende)
49 Maine-et-Loire (Angers)
50 Manche (St-L)
51 Marne
(Chlons-en-Champagne)
52 Haute-Marne (Chaumont)
53 Mayenne (Laval)
54 Meurthe-et-Moselle (Nancy)
55 Meuse (Bar-le-Duc)
56 Morbihan (Vannes)
57 Moselle (Metz)
58 Nivre (Nevers)
59 Nord (Lille)
60 Oise (Beauvais)
61 Orne (Alenon)
62 Pas-de-Calais (Arras)
63 Puy-de-Dme
(Clermont-Ferrand)
64 Pyrnes-Atlantiques (Pau)
65 Hautes-Pyrnes (Tarbes)
66 Pyrnes-Orientales
(Perpignan)
67 Bas-Rhin (Strasbourg)
68 Haut-Rhin (Colmar)
69 Rhne (Lyon)
70 Haute-Sane (Vesoul)
71 Sane-et-Loire (Mcon)
72 Sarthe (Le Mans)
73 Savoie (Chambry)
74 Haute-Savoie (Annecy)
75 Ville-de-Paris (Paris)
76 Seine-Maritime (Rouen)
77 Seine-et-Marne (Melun)
78 Yvelines (Versailles)
79 Deux-Svres (Niort)
80 Somme (Amiens)
81 Tarn (Albi)
82 Tarn-et-Garonne
(Montauban)
83 Var (Toulon)
84 Vaucluse (Avignon)
85 Vende
(La Roche-sur-Yon)
86 Vienne (Poitiers)
87 Haute-Vienne (Limoges)
88 Vosges (pinal)
89 Yonne (Auxerre)
90 Territoire-de-Belfort (Belfort)
91 Essonne (vry)
92 Hauts-de-Seine (Nanterre)
93 Seine-St-Denis (Bobigny)
94 Val-de-Marne (Crteil)
95 Val-dOise (Pontoise)
TRAVEL INFORMATION
FERRIES
Brittany Ferries
Tel: 0871 244 0744
www.brittany-ferries.co.uk
Stena Line
Tel: 0120 47777
www.stenaline.ie
Condor Ferries
Tel: 01202 207216
www.condorferries.co.uk
Irish Ferries
Tel: 0818 300 400
www.irishferries.com
LD Lines
Tel: 0844 576 8836
www.ldlines.co.uk
DFDS Seaways
Tel: 0844 576 8836
www.dfdsseaways.co.uk
P&O Ferries
Tel: 0871 664 2121
www.poferries.com
AIRLINES
Aer Arann
Tel: 0871 718 5000
www.aerarann.com
Aer Lingus
Tel: 0871 718 5000
www.aerlingus.com
Air France
Tel: 0871 663 3777
www.airfrance.co.uk
Aurigny Air Services
Tel: 01481 822 886
www.aurigny.com
Blue Islands
Tel: 08456 202122
www.blueislands.com
bmi regional
Tel: 0844 4172 600
www.bmiregional.com
British Airways
Tel: 0844 493 0787
www.britishairways.com
CityJet
Tel: 0871 405 2020

www.cityjet.com
easyJet
Tel: 0330 365 5000
www.easyjet.com
Flybe
Tel: 0871 700 2000
www.flybe.com
Jet2
Tel: 0800 408 1350
www.jet2.com
Lyddair
Tel: 01797 322 207
www.lyddair.com
Ryanair
Tel: 0871 246 0000
www.ryanair.com
Swiss International
Tel: 0845 601 0956
www.swiss.com
RAIL
Eurotunnel
Tel: 08443 35 35 35
www.eurotunnel.com
Eurostar
Tel: 08432 186 186
www.eurostar.com
Voyages-sncf.com
Tel: 08448 485 848
uk.voyages-sncf.com
completefrance.com
Brittany Ferries
(Portsmouth & Poole)
Stena Line
(Rosslare)
Condor Ferries
(Portsmouth)
Irish Ferries
(Rosslare & Dublin)
Eurostar
Eurotunnel (Folkestone)
P&O Ferries (Dover)
DFDS Seaways (Dover)
MyFerryLink (Dover)
Lyddair
DFDS Seaways (Dover)
DFDS
Seaways
(Newhaven)
Brittany Ferries
(Portsmouth)
Flybe
Dunkerque
q
Brittany
(Portsmouth & Plymouth)
Condor Ferries
(Poole & Weymouth)
LILLE
62
NORD-PASDE-CALAIS
Le Touquet
Air France
CityJet
Ryanair
Flybe
Ryanair
Aurigny
80
Le H
Hav
a re
PICARDY
ROUEN
ROU
EN
N
Eurostar
59
AMIENS
76
Di ppe
Die
Cherbo
ourg
u
Irish Ferries
(Rosslare)
Brittany Ferries
(Plymouth & Cork)
Eurostar
C l is
Calais
Brittany Ferries
(Portsmouth)
DFDS Seaways
(Portsmouth)
Ferries
Eurostar
Ryanair
Flybe
Air France
British
Airways
Jet2
Aer Lingus
CityJet
easyJet
0
02
Air
France
08
Centre
60
Ryanair
easyJet
METTZ
viille UPPER
51
Marrnene
ne
57
55
5
14
NORMANDY
l
a-Vall
l
le
CHLONS-ENLOWER
6
67
LORRAINE
PARIS
PAR
S
CHAMPAGNE
27
NORMANDY
STR
RASB
BOU
URG
R coff
Ros
54
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05
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PROVENCEBritish Airways
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Check websites for details
Ryanair
TEST YOUR FRENCH answers
FIVE MINUTE FRENCH answers
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motorway speed limits are...); 5F (Maximum
speed limit is 50kph); 6G (No overtaking)
LES MOTS CACHS
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LHEXAGONE
1. lzard
2. hasard
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6. cafard
THE PERFECT MATCH
un croquis = a sketch
une peinture = a painting
une sculpture = a sculpture
British Airways
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Flybe
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Eurostar
(May-June)
Flybe
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CityJet
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CORSICA
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CLASSIFIED DIRECTORY
Propertydirectory
Properties for sale, properties to let, services for your French home
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MIDIPYRNES
Whether youre looking for a renovation project, the perfect holiday bolt-hole or that chteau youve
always dreamed of, Living Frances Property Directory should be the first place to look. With properties
and agents covering most of France, youre sure to find something that catches your eye. To help you hit
the ground running, weve put together a back-to-basics guide to buying a French property. Bonne chance!
BUYING PROPERTY
also usually paid by the buyer and are on top
contract is legally binding.
of the purchase price. When buying
If the buyer pulls out after this, he forfeits
terms of contract, including any conditional
privately, there will be no agents fees but
his deposit.
clauses (clauses suspensives) and any
notaires fees will still apply.
Vendor and buyer agree on the price and
furniture included in the sale.

z
z
The preliminary sales contract
If you are going to buy with a mortgage,
now is the time to put in your application.
(compromis de vente) is drawn up by the
However, it is wise to apply for a mortgage
the vendor to supply accurate answers to all
agent or notaire and signed by both parties.
in principle before you start your property
questions. Some information is best
If the buyer is buying privately from a
hunt, to avoid disappointment later.
obtained from the local town hall;
vendor, its the notaire who draws up the
for other queries, consult the relevant
contract.
If its a private sale, it is unwise to rely on
authorities or call in an expert.
If you are taking out a mortgage, this
will be a condition of the preliminary

z
The buyer pays the deposit (usually 5-10%
sales contract, giving you the possibility
of the purchase price) to the notaire and a
of pulling out should your application
included in the price and as such, paid by the
seven-day cooling off period ensues, during
be turned down. Once the offer is official,
buyer. Check this is the case. The notaires
which the buyer can withdraw (but the
it will be confirmed to the notaire and the
fixed fees plus tax (les frais de notaire) are
vendor cannot) and after which the
contract becomes unconditional.
Agents fees (les frais dagence) are usually
The notaire handles the conveyancing,
which typically takes two to three months.

When all the paperwork is ready, the notaire
confirms the date and time of the signing of
the acte de vente.
z
Reports on lead, asbestos and flood zones
(and in some areas, termites) are mandatory;

the vendor pays for these. An energyefficiency report (known as a DPE, or
diagnostic de performance nergtique) is
now also mandatory, while a natural disaster
risk report (tat des risques naturels et
technologiques) has to be provided in
addition. It specifies whether the property is
within an area where there is a risk of
flooding or other natural or technological
disaster or accident.
z
The property has to be insured in the
buyers name from the date of completion.

z
The buyer transfers the balance of
payment to the notaire prior to completion.

On the day of completion, all parties meet
the notaire to sign the contract (the buyer
can appoint a proxy). Keys and an attestation
de vente are handed over and ownership is
transferred. The final acte de vente papers are
sent out around six months later.
Do take legal advice on inheritance law.
Donts
Do view the property on the day of
unless you are sure; once the cooling-off
LAND & BUSINESS

z
Dont be tempted to sign a sales contract

completion before signing the acte de vente,
period is over, it is legally binding and if you
check the limite de la zone constructible
which specifies that the purchase is sold as
pull out you will lose your deposit.
even if the plot is large, you might only be
seen.
Before buying a plot of land you should
Dont forget that the notaire will make a
permitted to construct on a limited part of it.

The plan local durbanisme (PLU) is available
Do prepare any personal assets you
charge of 6.5-10% in addition to the purchase
at the mairie and will tell you what size
intend to use for the purchase (eg give notice
price (this amount is different for new
property can be constructed on the plot. The
for any savings to withdraw, sell securities,
builds). The cheaper the property, the higher
PLU will also state whether the plot is a
etc).
the percentage charged; this amount consists
terrain de loisirs, which means that you

cannot build on the land.
of the notaires fixed fees and tax.

Do shop around in advance for the best
currency exchange rate deals.
procedure as buying property with the
Dont forget to allow for the expense of an

interpreter being present if your French
Buying a business follows much the same

Do remember to open a French bank
language skills are poor; ask your agent or
added factor of goodwill, or fonds de
account and make your mortgage application
notaire about this, as they may be able to
commerce. The local chamber of commerce
in good time.
help.
can offer advice as well as statistics to verify

a businesss potential profitability. Make sure
Do visit the Notaires de France website.
that the business is legitimate and properly
It has lots of helpful information in English.
For thousands of properties for sale visit our
registered by checking its SIREN or SIRET
www.notaires.fr
market-leading website France Property Shop
number. Seek professional accountancy and

legal advice before proceeding with the sale.
HONFLEUR HARBOUR FOTOLIA
DOS & DONTS

Dos
Do check the records of the property and
land before making an offer; be clear about
boundaries, rights of way and access.
NORTH WEST
COOKERY SCHOOL
LAKESIDE HOUSE
THE MILL COLLECTION,

NORMANDY FOR SALE
Stunning private country
estate in Brittany
799.000
RIVERSIDE COTTAGE
A TRUE LIFESTYLE BUSINESS.
Beautifully proportioned granite house set in 5+ hectares. Fully renovated

by award winning architect. Schmidt Kitchen with granite work surfaces
and dining area. Self contained two bedroomed guest/staff/gite
accommodation. Ground source heat pump with underoor heating.
Separate studio. Business opportunity.
Useful large outbuilding. Lake, woods & pasture.
CONSISTING OF 5 MILL HOUSES,

INCLUDING OUR COOKERY SCHOOL.
THE PROPERTIES ARE CURRENTLY BEING RUN

SUCCESSFULLY AS A GITE BUSINESS AND COOKERY
SCHOOL, WITH BOOKINGS AND WEB SITES.
THE MILL HOUSE
Close access to miles of national forest; perfect for riding, hiking, quad
biking. Great motorway access to St Malo and Rosscoff. Close to the
charming resorts of Binic and St Quay in the Cote Damour.
SET IN A VALLEY WITH WOODS, RIVERS, WATERFALLS

AND A LAKE; A MUST TO VIEW ON OUR WEBSITE.
SALE DIRECT WITH OWNERS
THE COLLECTION FOR 845,000

NO COMMISSION
Email: ferrismoulin@gmail.com
www.gite-business-for-sale-france.co.uk
Contact:
Email: lefretayfrance@gmail.com | web: lefretay.co.uk
FISHERMANS LODGE
SOUTH WEST
4 BED OLD FARM HOUSE WITH

ATTACHED 2 BED COTTAGE
Barn with stables/outbuildings and 5 acres, situated within
walking distance of a quiet village with amenities. Access to
larger towns with all amenities: Coutras/St. Aigulin/
Montguyon 15mins drive. Libourne/St. Emillion 25 mins and
Bordeaux/Bergerac airports 50 mins. It has been modernised
and comprises large entrance hall, fitted kitchen/diner,
lounge with wood-burner, glazed veranda, large utility area/
second kitchen, rear porch. Master bedroom with adjacent
bathroom inc bath, Wc, basin and shower. The other
bedrooms are all fitted with hand-basins and there is a family
bathroom/shower, separate toilet, plus an additional shower
adjacent to bed 4. All the accommodation is on the ground
floor. Ideal for horses.
Price 275,000 Euros

martinandkary@orange.fr
0033 (0)5 46 49 92 56
cr-airvault.notaires.fr
TYPICAL HOUSE POITEVINE
Between POITIERS & SAUMUR, large medieval
fireplace, lot of original features. 100m on ground
floor, plus attic (new roof), main sewage, 1500 m
land, in the middle of the village with amenities.
REF: 260-31. Price: 63,172
NICE VILLAGE HOUSE, IN AUBIGNY

Completely renovated inside, 100 m hab. on
1900 m land. Fitted kitchen, lounge, dinner
(fireplace & wood burner) 2 beds.
Shower room, wc.
REF: 019-06. Price: 109,522
English Speaking Notarys Office
SCP Louis CAGNIART & Christel ROY
Notaires AIRVAULT 79600, 9 Place st Pierre

Tel: 00 33 549 649 893 Email: nego.79064@notaires.fr
www.chambre-deux-sevres.notaires.fr
Agence Immobilire Herman De Graaf

Contact: Cate Carnduff
Le Bourg-Saint-Jean de Cle - 24800 Thiviers - France.
Tel: 00 33 (0)553 62 38 03 Fax: 00 33 (0)553 55 08 03
e-mail: agence@immobilier-dordogne.com
Ref. 4076 Restored 3 bedroom, 2 reception

room farmhouse with outbuildings and a U
shaped courtyard, quietly set in a hamlet on
1,23ha of land. Barn (150m2), covered terrace,
sauna & wells; small lake.
Ref. 3419 on Brantome. Stone cottage with

outbuildings, quietly set in a hamlet on 820m2
of land. Kitchen, living room with fireplace,
2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, workshop. Barn
(40m2).
Price: 295,000 agency fees included
Ref. 3752 Region Brantome. Maison de maitre

with guest apt & swimming pool, peacefully set
alone in 12.50 ha of land with beautiful views.
Kitchen, 2 reception rooms, 3 bedrooms,
3 bathrooms. Oil CH. 2 bed guest annex with
ensuites. Garage. Pool: 5x12m; lake.
Ref. 4071 Restored farmhouse with 3 sm lakes

& outbuildings, quietly set by a hamlet on
1,86ha of land with lovely views. House: living
room, kitchen, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms. Gas
CH. Adj. barns (35 & 80m2). Wells, stables and
breadoven.
www.immobilier-dordogne.com
SOUTH WEST
A few of our nest!

Call us on +33 (0)8 05 69 23 23
Freephone from UK: 0800 270 0101
or visit www.beauxvillages.com
IMMOBILIER
Ideal family home, Charente Maritime
How much ?! Vienne
Retro charm, Lot
This pretty 3 bed Charentaise longre has

been entirely renovated with large barn.
Situated conveniently between Jonzac and
Montendre for easy access to shops, railway
and motorway connections.
Great value2 bedroom country cottage

habitable but in need of updating.
An enclosed front garden, and separate
garage standing land totaling 520m.
Ideal rst home or holiday retreat.
Unique opportunity to buy 1950's gem of a

property comprising 3 bedroom house and
business premises. Set in a pretty village on
the banks of the river Lot, ideal to combine
business with pleasure.
Detached house 3 bedrooms situated in a

quiet hamlet, double glazing throughout.
Garden of approx. 3700m including small
woodland with streams and 2 garages.
Near the town of Chalais.
Ref: 11273
Ref: 10983
Ref: 11797
Ref: 11880
149 999
50 000
Immaculate throughout, Charente
175 000
212 000
How original! Charente
Far reaching views, Tarn et Garonne
Impeccable, Lot et Garonne
Light lled! Gironde
Lovely character stone house, 4 bedrooms

with lots of retained features. Outside, a
detached barn, enclosed gardens of approx.
2000m. The layout of this property lends
itself for gite potential, if required.
With 4 bedrooms, this well-maintained

property has fully fenced garden, lawn,
vegetable beds, heated pool, pigeonnier
and barn. Less than an hour from Toulouse
International Airport.
Renovated 4 bedroom stone house in over an

acre of land and mature garden with heated
pool. Unspoilt hilltop views and great privacy.
Near pretty village with bar, restaurant and
shops. 35mins from Bergerac airport.
Traditional stone house with great living

areas opening onto terrace and pool,
4 bedrooms and bags of rural charm.
Beautifully restored in an idyllic country
setting.
Ref: 12053
Ref: 11755
Ref: 12112
Ref: 11900
179 000
400 000
635 000
318 000
SOUTH EAST
Gites for sale

specialist estate agents for
GITES and B&Bs

www.gitesforsalefrance.com
+33 950 685 46
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Manche, Normandy
Finistre, Brittany
Mayenne, Pays de la Loire
One of the most striking features of this

property are the beautifully planned and
maintained gardens which provide lots of
interest throughout the year and different
terraces and seating areas to enjoy it.
Renovation works were carried out in 1996.
Nice house near town centre. Basement : garage

for 2 cars, boiler room, laundry, one bedroom
with toilets. Ground floor: kitchen equipped,
living room, 2 bedrooms, shower room, toilets.
Large terrace. Garden flowery (992m2). Living
space : around 95m2. Central heating: Oil.
Imposing south-facing village house, recently

renovated and providing a comfortable two
bedroom house with attractive large kitchen/
living room. Enclosed garden (243m2) with sun
terrace, mature planting, lawn and garden shed/
workshop. Separate garage.
171,000
190,000
71,175
Deux-Svres, Poitou-Charentes
Jura, Franche-Comte
Lot, Midi-Pyrenees
XVIth century logis, in a medieval village, with

amnenities, close to Parthenay, 79200. Lovely
fireplace, 300 m2 habitable with outbuildings
on 2,7 hectares of land. Swimmming pool.
Very nice location for: the view, the peace,
to relax, nice walks by the river Thouet.
Located 30 minutes from LONS LE SAUNIER

and LOUHANS, sell farm level, of approximately
116m2 on adjoining land of 3000m2. Includes:
kitchen (23m2) with chimney pipe, stay (21m2)
with vent fireplace, two bedrooms (16 and 20m2),
cellar 6m2, bathroom laundry (5m2), toilet.
Stone house from the 18th century 20 min from

the centre of Cahors. Modern comfort. Living/
dining room 45m2 with an old fire place, kitchen
22m2, 4 bedrooms (18m2, 18m2, 30m2, and 14m2),
one is independent with a shower room and
toilets, bathroom with bath and shower 13m2.
345,000
115,000
400,000
Lot, Midi-Pyrenees
Haute-Vienne, Limousin
Ctes-dArmor, Brittany
Old house with outbuildings on a landscaped

parc with swimming pool, pounds and river.
2.5 hectares of land. Ground level: living room
50m2 with kitchen and fire place. Level 1: 2
bedrooms opening on a balcony, bathroom.
Level 2: 2 bedrooms, shower room. Facing south.
A unique and well renovated family home.

Gardens stretching to over one and a half
hectares with great views from the balcony on
the first floor. 2 charming bedrooms built into
the attic space and two bathrooms and a good
sized bedroom on the ground floor.
A well presented, refurbished house in a

quiet hamlet close to a village with amenities.
The house offers bright, spacious and flexible
accommodation comprising on the ground floor
a new kitchen, a living / dining room, a study /
bedroom and a shower room with separate WC.
409,500
180,000
180,200
JOB OPPORTUNITY
Gardiennage/Gardener/Housekeeper couple
to oversee the general care of a beautiful
chateau located within the Jurancon wine region,
south-west France. Nearest main town is Pau.
Ideally suited to a healthy, pleasant couple with a genuine love
of gardening and nature. Non-smokers.
Owners present 5 months of the year. Full-time housekeeping duties
throughout this period.
Independent detached house offered within the grounds. Utilities
included plus salary by negotiation.
Position not suitable for children or personal pets.
Driving licence and references required. Start July 2015.
Full resumes, any additional information and recent photographs
to: info@chateausouthernfrance.com
BUSINESS FOR SALE
INSURANCE
Looking for a business in France?

Interested in cars? motorcycles and
automotive tooling?
FOR ALL YOUR

INSURANCE NEEDS
IN FRANCE
BUSINESS
FOR SALE
Well established website and also direct

sales. Wide client base throughout France.
Contact: John Shaw for further information.
Tel: 0033 5 49 22 57 29
e: shawmotoproducts@wanadoo.fr
www.smp-outillage.com
To advertise call
4896
ANIMAL SERVICES
WANTED
01242 216099
International Pet Animal Transport
Tel; 01952 460607

Mobile; 07802 355795
or email
classified@
livingfrance.com
www.horsetransport.uk.net
PROPERTY SERVICES
Second Home and Property
Management Translations
and Interpretations
Bilingual in English and
French, with over 20 years
experience in and around
St Rmy de Provence and
Eygalires, I offer a highly
professional, efcient and
competitive service.
Please feel free to
contact me to discuss
your personal project.
References upon request.
Have you just bought a house in France?

Special discount for new owners
50% OFF THE FIRST YEAR
Fully comprehensive cover at competitive prices

English
speaking?
Please ask fo
r
Corinne.
Tel: +33 (0)5 49 25 87 06

Email: corinne.michallon@mutpoitiers.fr
Oces at Champdeniers & St. Pardoux (79). Come and visit us!
Beth Woodford + 33 629322216

woodfordbeth@hotmail.com
www.woodford-services-provence.com
Finally, the easy solution to your French issues!
ORIAS no: 07 007 057
CARS FOR SALE
THE LEFT HAND DRIVE PLACE

Whitney Road, Daneshill, Basingstoke, Hants
Tel: +44 (0) 1256 461173. Fax: +44 (0) 1256 811541
Selection of left hand drive cars in Basingstoke.

Choose from 60 British or French Registered LHD cars
from 1000 to 30,000. If we havent got what you
want we can get it for you. LHD/RHD cars taken in
part exchange. French reg cars bought for cash.
All cars on website, updated daily.
Delivery anywhere in France.
WWW.LHDPLACE.CO.UK
French native who relates to your needs and knows Frances ins
and outs. First to offer set prices (not just by the hour)
Vital services set up
Admin & Business issues (AE, etc...)
Translation
Troubleshooting
www.thetranslationconnexion.com
Tel: 0033 673 568 120 | ksevoz@translationconnexion.com
M. PAGE LANDSCAPING
Specialist in hard and soft
landscape projects
EMAIL: CARS@LHDPLACE.CO.UK
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Covering North/West & South/West,

and prepared to travel further
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Whether you are a business

owner or property owner looking
to promote your product or
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offers exceptional value.
To advertise, please call me
on 01242 216070 or email:
alexandra.kirton@archant.co.uk
Alex Account Manager
REMOVALS
ANGLO FRENCH
EURO REMOVALS LTD
Moving to or from France?

Weekly services to & from France
Up to 4 weeks free Storage in Kent
Fully Insured
Professional Parking Services
Cars And Motorcycles transported
We are the French specialist with
over 33 years experience
Free Quotations
BAR Member
Tel: 01622 690653 Email: info@anglofrenchmail.com

www.anglofrenchremovals.co.uk
Unit 15, Heronden Rd, Bircholt Rd, Parkwood, Maidstone, Kent ME15 9YR
FRANKLINS REMOVALS LTD
Smart Moves
Sutton Coldfield
Regular Service
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Containerised Storage
Packing Services
FOR A FULLY INSURED CAREFUL SERVICE

FORTNIGHTLY SERVICES TO FRANCE.
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WE COLLECT FROM ALL AREAS OF THE UK & DELIVER
TO ALL AREAS OF FRANCE.
PLEASE CALL or EMAIL STEPHEN on

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A family business established over 30 years offering a reliable

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smartmovers@hotmail.co.uk
Tel: 0121 353 7263 or 01283 792 838

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SELF STORAGE
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STORAGE AVAILABLE
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CALL / EMAIL FOR
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Removals to, from and

within France. All areas.
Full and part loads. Storage
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FRENCH SERVICES
PROPERTY FOR SALE
SURVEYORS
www.SurveysinFrance.com
(Bi-Lingual Chartered Building Surveyors)
Pre-Purchase Surveys - Planning - Project Management

French Resident UK Surveyors with 19+ Years Experience as
Experts en Btiments et Architecture Ancienne & Moderne
Spcialiste Maitres duvres
Contact: Ian Graham MA FRICS (Rtrd) -- +33 (0) 682 34 91 32

surveysinfrance@gmail.com
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increase bid button, France is on the terrasse

having a glass of wine, having bought
whatever they want from a listing website
instead. They dont bid, you see. Theres a
price and you either pay it or not: shrug of the
shoulders, shake of the hand and walk away.
I paid. And mightily pleased with the
price, I hired a van locally and set off on the
two-hour drive to collect the thing. Now, I
knew it would weigh a lot but I really hadnt
banked on quite how much: the five slate
panels each taking four of us to lift and carry
just the few metres to the van. They alone
took over an hour to shift before I then spent
the two-hour drive home wondering not only
how I would get them out again, but also
Sourcing a
snooker table in
France isnt that
straightforward
anywhere near where they needed to be.
I rang my wife en-route, she made the
calls and by the time I arrived, the cavalry
was already waiting: two neighbours and two
friends of neighbours, all ready and willing to
Moving moments
turn up at the drop of a hat and help out.
A mid-life crisis purchase rallies the troops in Ian Moores corner of

France, where it turns out that the moving process isnt the onestage affair it might initially seem...
scratched his head: How did you get them
ILLUSTRATION ANDY ROBERT DAVIES
What hadnt been explained to them,

however, was the difference in size between a
French billiard table and a full-size MLCP. One
in? he asked incredulously.
There were four of us, I replied. Three
Englishmen and a farmer from Corrze.
Something in him was piqued at this and
he lifted his chin defiantly. Without you, we
here are many reasons to
as my wife has taken to calling it, the MLCP*
are three Frenchmen and a Berrichon farmer,
consider a move to France:
(*Mid-Life Crisis Purchase).
he said, as they got to work, literally pushing

me to one side.
work, family, financial or a
Sourcing a snooker table in France isnt
hankering for being on the
that straightforward. They dont really do
doorstep of goats cheese
snooker, for one; its just billiards. I didnt
asked, his forehead vein about to burst with
production; but, and I say this often, for our
want to pay for a new one; Im not a
effort, We can beat it!
family it was the closest place to London we
professional player (yet); and I didnt want to
could actually afford to buy a house.
pay shipping costs from the UK either, so I
and Im largely all for it; poor pay and
How long did it take you to load? one
Industrial action is a fact of life in France
And when I say buy a house, I mean a
searched the French arm of that well-known
conditions? Down tools I say; as a writer I do
HOUSE. Taking full advantage of property
auction website. Now, the site has taken the
often. But its also true that governments have
price anomalies, we filled our boots like
rest of the world by storm, but, like customer
had a problem getting recalcitrant unions to
kiddies in a sweet shop and bought a place
service and privatised utilities, it seems to
put in the required effort from time to time
far, far too big for us with vague, not very
have passed France by. Its there alright, but
well, I might just have found the solution!
serious, notions of a gte business.
like a boulangerie five minutes before closing,
Weve managed to mostly fill the place

too, firstly with children and assorted
rescued animals, and then with the kind of
theres very little on the shelves and whats

there is there for a reason nobody wants it.
Also, I get the impression that the French
brocante tat that will be worth something one
dont like to haggle, and certainly not over
day. The final space was filled this week by,
second-hand goods, so while the rest of the
drum roll please, a full-size snooker table, or
world sits anxiously hovering over the
Ian Moore is a comedian, writer,

chutney-maker and mod who
lives with his family in the Loire
Valley. His latest book is Cest
Modnifique!, (8.99, Summersdale Publishers).
www.ianmoore.info
completefrance.com

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Letting out gtes

Why music and wine are a

Issue 289 July 2015 3.99

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Spoilt for choice

PLAGE DE LA BAULE LAD / C. MENES

hen it comes to planning where to

you looking for

Eve Middleton, Editor

July 2015 Living France 3

GROUP SALES MANAGER Susan Crwys-Williams

COMMERCIAL SERVICES MANAGER Sylvie Wheatley

ADVERTISEMENT DESIGN AND PRODUCTION

HEAD OF SUBSCRIPTIONS AND LOYALTY Lisa Foster

As former Living France deputy and later,

Born in France, Solange often returns to the

4 Living France July 2015

20 JEWEL OF THE LOIRE

Cover story With its sweeping sandy beaches,

28 RUN OF THE MILL

32 ASK THE AGENT

33 WHAT CAN I GET FOR

Our selection of properties in Loire-Atlantique

This month Marais Poitevin

Cover story Marylyn and Anthony Kusmirek

We bring you a round-up of the main events and

40 LEARNING THE LINGO

46 ALL THAT JAZZ

Cover story Expat Fred Stephenson reveals

14 OUR DREAM PROPERTY

16 WHATS ON THE MARKET

One expat couple reveal why running a

FREE! car kit

6 Living France July 2015

The latest from the property market, including

78 FIVE MINUTE FRENCH

We select three new-build properties from

64 ASK THE EXPERTS

Cover story Our experts answer your

66 RENTING OUT LAND

Jean-Paul Vovor explains the legal implications

Glynis Shaw gives her advice for those wanting

Sylvie Wheatley shares the vocabulary relating

Test your French with our puzzles and

Your views on life across the Channel

A guide to the buying process, plus properties

In his column this month, Ian Moore makes a

This month, Kate McNally explains the process

News & events

The worlds a stage

town during the annual Festival dAvignon

in its 92nd year, the festival takes place from

(pictured above, top right). Taking place from

star Jamie Cullum, American jazz group Kool

21-26 July, with a varied programme of events

4-25 July, and expected to attract more than

and the Gang, and free performances by the

encompassing performances and concerts of

150,000 visitors, the festival is a cultural

London Community Gospel Choir. Running

Breton music, including a competition to find

highlight of the summer with performances

from 7-12 July, the concerts take place on