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Hisako Sato
Hisako Sato
I S B N 978-1-85669-841-2
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781856 698412
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Contents
Hisako Sato
page 4
introduction
page 6
no.1
no.2
pages 21, 26
no.3
pages 28, 30
no.4
no.5
no.6
no.7
no.8
no.9
Published in 2012 by
Laurence King Publishing Ltd
361373 City Road
London EC1V 1LR
United Kingdom
Tel: + 44 20 7841 6900
Fax: + 44 20 7841 6910
e-mail: enquiries@laurenceking.com
www.laurenceking.com
Drape Drape by Hisako Sato
Copyright Hisako Sato 2009
Original Japanese edition published by EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION BUNKA GAKUEN,
pages 60, 62
pages 61, 66
pages 72, 74
pages 73, 76
pages 78, 80
pages 79, 84
Folding a tuck
In photograph 1, I have added precise cutting marks to
a piece of fabric that I am folding, using the pattern to
check the direction of the tucks. Align the raw edges of
the seam allowance carefully when making these folds
(photographs 2 and 3). Insert marking pins and tack
immediately along the seam allowance (photograph 4),
then fold area B in the same way (photographs 5 to 7).
Continue by folding C and D, paying careful attention
to the variations in the direction of the tucks in each
case (photographs 8 and 9).
2
b
a
3
7
Upside
b
a
Tacking
10
D
C
Gathering in
Sew large gathered stitches along the seam-allowance
side of the finishing line, and pull on either the needle
thread or the bobbin thread to gather the fabric.
Placing the fabric on an ironing mat and fixing the
other end of the thread with a marking pin will make it
easier to gather (photograph 10). Arrange the folds in
the gather, running an iron over the seam allowance to
flatten it down as you work (photograph 11).
10
11
Upside
11
Front
4
Required patterns (side B):
1-1
Front
(panel)
12
3
Panel
1-1
4-1
Sewing instructions
* Attach fusible interlining to the
front and back facing.
1 Finish the perimeter of the front
and back panels with a threefold
edge-stitched seam (see figure 1
on p. 32).
2 Fold the tucks on the back bodice
neckline (see figure 2 on p. 32).
1-2
3 Fold the tucks on the front bodice
neckline (see figure 3 on p. 32).
4 Sew up the shoulders on the
Back
bodice and facing (see figure 4 on
(panel)
p. 33).
5 Make a loop for the panel and
tack onto the left shoulder (see
figure 5 on p. 33).
6 Edge-stitch (lap-seam) the
neckline with the facing (see
figure 6 on p. 33).
7 Edge-stitch (lap-seam) the
Panel
armholes with the facing.
8 Sew the sides of the bodice and
facing so they are adjoining,
adding a lapped seam to the seam
allowance on the armholes.
9 Arrange the tucks on the front
4-1
bodice neckline and sew in place
a
behind the panel loop (see
6
2-2
figure 9 on p. 33).
Shoulder
10 Sew the sides of the lining.
Attachment
11 Fold the tucks in the bodice position for
panel
neck (on the upside) and
Center
7
sew onto the hem of the
2-1
back
lining.
12 Fold the upper edge seam
allowance on the bodice lining,
and blindstitch to the facing.
6
4-1
Shoulder
7
Center
front
8-1
Front
(neckline)
39
10
8
a'
Front
(hem)
4-1
7
1-2
11
11
5
1-1
Front
(hem side)
Panel loop
Cutting layout
4-2
6
Back
(neck)
Center
back,
cut on
fold
12
4-2
Back
facing
12
Front
facing
12
12
Back
(hem)
Back lining
Front
Front facing
Panel
Center
front,
cut on
fold
W
150
cm
Front lining
Back facing
8
Panel
10
Back
10
11
Panel loop
11
11
31
53
Sewing instructions
Fold in three
12
1.5 cm overlap
78
6-2
6-1
Back
Center
front,
cut on
fold
Hem
Front
5
1 cm wide
Elastic tape
(ensure that the tape is 3 cm
shorter than the cuffs, stretch,
and sew in place)
1-cm overlap
1
4
2
Top stitch
end
Gather end
Neck
(lace)
Shoulder
Cutting layout
Cuff
Cut on fold
Front
4 French-seaming
Gather
Seam
end
78
Back
(upside)
1 cm seam
allowance
Gather end
5 mm
seam
Trim
12 mm
Wrong side
(reverse) out
(wrong side/reverse)
Finishing
line
12
6-2
Cuffs
(lace)
4
78
Back
6-1
Center
back
Hem
6-2
W 145 cm
54
55
61
2 3 cm
Bodice stitch end
Front
facing
(wrong
side/
reverse)
Back
(upside)
Back facing
(upside)
5 mm triple
fold
Front
(upside)
Slit
Front
(upside)
Back lining
(wrong side/reverse)
Side
Front lining
(wrong side/reverse)
Front panel
(upside)
Front panel
(wrong side/reverse)
2 mm
Elastic tape
Sew the edge of
the tape in place onto
the facing only
Stitching
Front facing
(upside)
Secure the
edge of the tape
with a topstitched
seam
Front lining
(upside)
64
Back facing
(wrong side/reverse)
Back
(wrong
side/reverse)
Armhole fabric
(wrong side/reverse)
Front
(upside)
Fold seam
allowance
Stitch from
the upside
Slit
Panel
(upside)
Fold seam
allowance
Front lining
(upside)
Armhole fabric
(upside)
Attach
invisible
zipper
Panel
(wrong
side/
reverse)
Front lining
(upside)
Back lining
(upside)
65