Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
OF
NEEDLEWORK
BY
THRSE DE
DILLMONT
ENGLISH EDITION
To be had:
of TH. DE DILLMONT,
DORNACH, Alsace,
and at all booksellers, and
embroidery shops.
Preface.
The absolute want of any
comprehensive book on needlework
such an one as contains both
verbal and pictorial descriptions of
everything included under the name
of needleworkhas led me to put
into the serviceable form of an
Encyclopedia, all the knowledge
and experience, which years of
unceasing study and practice have
enabled me to accumulate on the
subject, with the hope that diligent
female workers of all ages, may be
TABLE OF
CONTENTS.
PREFACE.
PLAIN SEWING
Stitches
Seams
Gathering
Sewing on cord and flaps
Button-holes
Sewing on buttons
Binding slits
Sewing on piping
Fixing whale-bones
Page
10
11
12
13
13
Herring-boning
14
MENDING
Linen darning
Satin or twill darning
Damask darning
Fine-drawing
Patching
SINGLE AND CUT OPENWORK
Hem-stitching
Open-work patterns
Cutting out threads at the
corners
Cut open-work
Patterns for cut open-work
15
16
17
18
20
20
23
24
27
39
40
42
51
Net embroidery
Net patterns
Net darning
Damask stitches
WHITE EMBROIDERY
Stitches
Different kinds of scallops
Eyelet holes
Six ways of making dots
Venetian embroidery
Patterns and alphabets
FLAT STITCH AND GOLD
EMBROIDERY
51
52
62
63
76
77
79
80
81
82
83
105
105
106
108
109
110
111
113
113
115
119
120
127
128
129
138
143
152
171
172
173
178
182
183
184
Toes
Mending knitting
Piqu patterns
Patent knitting
Turkish stitch
Knitting patterns
CROCHET WORK
Position of the hands
Stitches
Method for copying tapestry
patterns in crochet
Crochet with soutache or
lacet
Crochet square, hexagon and
star
189
190
195
201
201
203
221
223
223
238
239
240
Tunisian crochet
Hairpin crochet
Patterns for hairpin crochet
Crochet lace patterns
Crochet counterpanes
Crochet stars
Crochet collar
Crochet chair-back
TATTING
Position of the hands
Knots
Patterns of scallops and
medallions
MACRAM
Materials and implements
241
243
245
249
284
300
304
316
325
326
328
331
343
344
345
360
Macram patterns
NETTING
Implements and materials
Stitches
Patterns produced in netting
Mounting the netting on the
frame
Stars and wheels
Grounds and lace
Embroidery on netting
Netted insertion
IRISH LACE
Materials
361
395
395
397
400
410
414
423
434
438
439
439
440
442
445
450
467
468
473
474
481
481
503
505
Reticella-lace
Venetian-lace
Brussels-lace
MISCELLANEOUS FANCY
WORK
Knotted cord
Balls for trimmings
Tambour work
Smyrna stitch
Malta stitch
Triangular Turkish stitch
Turkish embroidery
Appliqu-work
Morocco embroidery
508
510
515
517
518
519
521
523
525
526
530
531
535
Spanish embroidery
Different kinds of linen
stitches
Pattern for linen stitches
Pattern for Roumanian stitch
536
546
546
551
553
540
541
544
553
557
564
565
565
566
566
566
567
568
569
ALBUM DE
BRODERIES
AU POINT DE CROIX.
(Album of cross-stitch
embroidery)
BY TH. DE DILLMONT
32 Plates with 278 Designs, and a
complete treatise on the embroidery
itself.
Quarto; artistic boards, price 1s.
6d.
Plain Sewing.
Many, on opening the Encyclopedia
of needlework will be disposed to
exclaim as they read the heading of
this first section: What is the use of
describing all the old well-known
stitches, when machines have so
nearly superseded the slower
process of hand-sewing? To this our
reply is that, of all kinds of
needlework, Plain Sewing needs to
be most thoroughly learned, as
being the foundation of all. Those
who are able to employ others to
WITHOUT CUSHION.
Stitches.Plain-Sewing comprises
4 varieties of stitches, (1) running,
(2) back-stitching, (3) hemming and
(4) top or over-sewing.
(1) Running-stitch (fig. 4).This
is the simplest and easiest of all.
Pass the needle in and out of the
material, at regular intervals, in a
horizontal direction, taking up three
or four threads at a time. If the stuff
allow, several stitches may be taken
on the needle at once, before the
thread is drawn out. Running-stitch
is used for plain seams, for joining
light materials, for making gathers
FIG. 4. RUNNING-STITCH.
(2) Back-stitch (fig. 5).Insert the
needle, and draw it out six threads
further on, carry your thread back,
from left to right, and insert the
needle three threads back from the
point at which it was last drawn
FIG. 5. BACK-STITCH.
Stitching (fig. 6).The production
of a row of back-stitches, that
exactly
meet
one
another,
FIG. 6. STITCHING.
Stitched hem (fig. 7).Make a
double turning, as for a hem, draw a
thread two or three threads above
the edge of the first turning, and do
your stitching through all three
FIG. 8. HEMMING-STITCH.
Narrow hems do not need to be
tacked, but wide ones, where the
first turning should only be just
wide enough to prevent the edge
from fraying, ought always to be. In
hemming you insert the needle and
thread directed in a slanting
stitches.
Rounded seam.Back-stitch your
two edges together, as above
directed, then cut off the inner edge
to a width of four threads, and roll
the outer one in, with the left thumb,
till the raw edge is quite hidden,
hemming as you roll. This kind of
seam, on the wrong side, looks like
a fine cord, laid on, and is used in
making the finer qualities of
underclothing.
Fastening threads off, and on (fig.
10).Knots should be avoided in
white work. To fasten on, in
hemming,
turn
the
needle
by side.
Next Chapter.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Our readers should be
provided with a French metre,
with the English yard marked
on the back for purposes of
comparison.
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
SPECIMENS OF PATTERN
DARNS.
Mending.
The mending of wearing-apparel
and house-linen, though often an
ungrateful task, is yet a very
necessary one, to which every
female hand ought to be carefully
trained. How best to disguise and
repair the wear and tear of use or
accident is quite as valuable an art,
as that of making new things.
Under the head of mending, we
include the strengthening and
replacing of the worn and broken
threads of a fabric, and fitting in of
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
out.
used.
Open-work insertion (fig. 78).
After drawing out sixteen or
eighteen threads, bind both sides
with stitches made over four
horizontal and four perpendicular
threads, as follows; make one backstitch over four disengaged threads,
then bring up your thread from right
to left, over four horizontal and
under four perpendicular threads,
back over the four last threads, and
draw it out beside the next cluster.
The clusters, as they now stand, are
bound together in the middle, three
by three, with darning-stitches. The
threads. The
narrow
bands
between, are to be herring-boned on
either side. The dotted line shows
the course of the thread, on the
wrong side. Then unite each
separate cluster in the middle, with
a back-stitch, as shown in the
illustration, and finally, join every
group of four clusters together, with
three stitches, and make a spider in
the middle of the open-work, at the
point where the threads intersect
each other.
RINGS.
Irish lace.
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See, at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
STITCHES.
pattern (fig.
115).This
the border to the square in cut openwork in fig. 105. The long diagonal
stitches, on either side, can be made
to look fuller and more distinct, by
using a soft, coarse cotton.
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
White Embroidery.
We have retained the familiar term,
white embroidery, for this kind of
needlework, for convenience sake,
in spite of its inaccuracy, now that
coloured materials are quite as
much used for it as white.
It is executed, either on a backing of
oil-cloth, or in an embroidery
frame, called tambour-frame.
Only skilful workers can dispense
with these, for an untrained hand
can hardly avoid puckering. If you
work without a foundation, the
WRONG SIDE.
Fig. 176 shows the interlacing of
the stitches on the wrong side, and
the way in which this stitch, when it
is used for filling in centres, can be
worked on the right side.
Simple knot stitch (fig. 177). This
consists of two back-stitches, side
by side, covering the same threads;
it is chiefly used for filling in
leaves, embroidered on very thin
materials, or in conjunction with
flat stitch.
interlacing of
the
letters
contrast to A, is embroidered in
transverse bars, the left part in pale
blue and white, the right in pale
blue and dark blue. The little
ornaments
may
be
worked
according to fancy, either in white,
or in one of the given colours.
STITCH.
LETTERS A TO N.
LETTERS O TO Z.
First part.
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
Bouquet
in
straight
and
encroaching flat stitch (fig. 229).
As we have already observed, it is
by no means easy to arrange the
colours in an embroidery of this
kind, so as to obtain a really artistic
effect. Whether the design be a
conventional one or not, the great
point is to put in the lights and
shadows at the right place. If you
want to make a faithful copy of a
natural flower, take the flower
itself, or a coloured botanical
drawing of it, and if possible, a
good black and white drawing of
the same, match the colours in 6 or
7 shades, by the flower itself,
D.M.C.
COLOURSFor the cotton: JauneRouille 363, 308, 366.For Chin
d'or: Red and gold, blue and gold,
green and gold.[A]
The stitches of the different rows
encroach upon one another, as the
working detail shows, and the three
shades
alternate
in regular
succession. Flowers, butterflies and
birds are represented in Chinese
embroidery, executed in this
manner. It is a style, that is adapted
to stuffs of all kinds, washing
materials as well as others, and can
be worked in the hand and with any
gold
embroidery,
on
spindle
(fig.
237).The
SCALE.
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
often to be changed.
( ) Violet-Mauve 315, ( )
Rouge-Granium 349, ( ) RougeAurore 360, ( ) Bleu-Indigo 312,
( ) Bleu ple 668, ( ) RougeCornouille 449, ( ) Vert-de-gris
474, ( ) Vert-de-gris 475, ( )
Grounding.[A]
Part of a design, suitable for
carpets (figs. 290 and 291). Our
space will not admit of our
reproducing more than a quarter of
this design. Colours of the softest
shades should be selected for it. A
black line divides the pattern into
four quarters. The upper quarter on
the right, and the lower one, on the
FOR CARPETS.
STITCH.
FORWARD ROW.
SECOND DETAIL.
contrive
the
middles
for
themselves, by combining the
different subjects and putting them
together in various positions, either
diagonally or at right angles to each
other, with the help of the Penelope
mirror.[1]
sides.
Wallachian border (fig. 333).A
piece of Wallachian needlework,
executed on rough linen, and
uncommon, both in colour and
design, suggested the charming
embroidery, here represented. In
place of the somewhat violent
colours,
which indicate
an
undeveloped taste, we have
substituted softer and more refined
ones. All the stroke stitches of the
middle stripe and of the two border
stripes, top and bottom, as well as
the darker portions of the small
dice, subdivided into eight, in the
SPANISH HALF-STITCH.
MATERIALS.According to the
stuff: Coton tricoter D.M.C
Nos. 6 to 16, Coton broder
D.M.C Nos. 16 to 35, Coton
repriser D.M.C Nos. 12, 25, 50,
Fil pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30,
or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3
to 20.[A]
COLOURS: Rouge-Cornouille 450,
Vert-Pistache 319, Violet-Lie-devin 372, Jaune-Rouille 364, BleuIndigo 322.[A]
Next Chapter.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] See, the directions for its
use, given in the concluding
chapter.
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
Knitting.
selection.
In former days, knitting served
mainly for the manufacture of
stockings, and even now, in spite of
machines, handknit stockings, and
numberless other useful and
ornamental articles, such as shawls,
counterpanes,
cradle-coverings,
gloves, laces etc. are in great
request.
Besides its practical use, knitting is
an easy and pleasant pastime that
can be taken up at odd minutes and
even carried on, whilst talking, or
reading.
LOOPS.
times, in succession.
Number of
stitches to
be cast on
one
needle for
Number of
stitches to be
cast on one
needle for
stockings that
to be
used
25
30
35
40
50
and so on.
2, 1 chain stitch.
4th needlewrong side: slip 1,
purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from
behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1
from behind, knit 1 from behind,
purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5,
knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1
from behind, purl 1 from behind,
knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from
behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2
together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.
5th needleon the right side: slip
1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1
from behind, purl 1 from behind,
knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from
2nd rowplain.
3rd rowwith fine thread: over, 1
intake, knit 2.
4th rowplain.
5th rowknit 1, over, 1 intake, knit
1.
6th rowplain.
7th rowknit 2, over, 1 intake.
8th rowplain.
9th and 10th rowwith the coarse
thread: purl.
11th rowplain.
2.
8th rowknit 2, knit 2 together,
over.
Repeat from the beginning.
Knitting pattern (fig. 391).The
patterns shown in figs. 391 and 392,
are more particularly useful for
comforters, shawls, hoods and the
like. The needles, which may be
either of bone or steel must match
the cotton in size; steel needles are
the best for any thing finer than No.
16, of D.M.C Coton tricoter.
1, knit 1.
7th needleknit 10, over, knit 2
together, 1 chain.
8th needle1 chain, knit 2, knit 2
together, knit 8.
9th needle4 chain, 2 overs, knit 2
together, 2 overs, knit 3, over, knit 2
together, 1 chain.
Repeat from the second needle.
Knitted lace (fig. 396).Cast on
13 stitches.
knit 8, 1 chain.
8th needle1 chain, knit 8, over,
knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together,
over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2,
knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.
9th needle1 chain, purl 2, over,
purl 2 together, over, purl 2
together, over, purl 2 together, over,
purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.
10th needle8 chain, knit 10, knit
1 from behind, 1 chain.
Repeat from the first needle.
Knitted lace (fig. 397).Cast on
11 stitches.
60.[A]
1st needle, make a chain of 2
stitches, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit
1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together,
over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull
slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2
together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch
over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2
together, knit 1 from behind, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit
1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1,
Next Chapter.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
Crochet Work.
close stitch
described.
than
those
just
STITCH'.
loops.
leaves.
Small rounded picots.These may
either be made separately and then
sewn on, or made at once, on to a
crochet border. In the first case,
begin with 3 chain, then coming
back, make 1 plain stitch on the
second and on the first chain stitch.
In the second case make: 1 chain,
take the needle out of the stitch and
put it in from the right side, under
both edges of the last stitch, take up
the dropped stitch, bring it to the
right side, * 3 chain; then returning:
1 plain stitch on each chain, draw
the needle out, put it in from the
needle or mesh.
Fig. 436 represents picots attached
by plain stitches to the edge of a
finished piece of work; this is done
as follows: 1 plain stitch, draw out
the loop to the proper length for a
picot, and slip it on a mesh: put the
needle into the horizontal parts of
the last stitches, turn the thread
round the needle, draw it through in
a loop, and make 1 plain stitch on
the next stitch and so on.
STITCH.
side.
Footing of the laceOn the chain
stitches that follow the 3rd plain
stitch and above the last little
figure: 1 triple treble, 6 chain, join
to the middle plain stitch = miss 1
scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1
scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain, =
miss 1 scallop, 1 triple treble, 6
chain, = miss 1 scallop of the figure
on the left, 1 double treble, 6 chain
= miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain =
miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6
chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6
chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6
chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double
must
be
the scallops.
For the inner squares = 4 chain,
close the ring.
1st row8 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain,
1 double treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3
chain, 1 double treble, 3 chain, 1
treble, 3 chain, 1 double treble, 3
chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 single
stitch on the 5th of the 8 chain.
2nd row* 1 chain, 5 plain on the
first 3 chain, 5 plain on the next 3
chain. On these 10 plain stitches,
working to and fro, 9 rows of plain
stitches, decreasing by 1 in each
row; after the last stitch, come back
finished.
The ends of the coloured threads
must be worked in under the
stitches of the next row. The square
may be of any size; it is bordered
by small picot scallops by means of
which the different squares are
joined together.
Stripes for counterpanes (fig.
475).We recommend the use of
Soutache D.M.C or Lacets superfins
D.M.C (braids) for the coloured
stitches, in the place of cotton. The
dark stitches standing, so to speak,
on another ground of stitches the
pattern will look brighter, if it be
proportion.
For the inner square, which is
worked in a light material, make 20
chain stitches, on which you make
17 rows of plaited Tunisian
crochet, fig. 445, then fasten off.
outside
border
of
the
the corners.
5th rowsimilar to the 4th.
6th row2 plain, 1 cluster of 2
double trebles on the same stitch of
the 4th row as the 5th stitch of the
last row is on; miss 1 plain.
Continue in this manner along the
whole row, taking care that the 9th
and 22nd cluster come just at the
corner.
7th and 8th rowsthese two last
rows should be worked in the same
colour as the inside of the figure.
Be careful always to make the
chain
chain.
5th row3 chain, 1 treble on each
stitch of the row beneath; including
the 3 chain, 80 trebles in the whole
circumference = after the last
treble: 1 single on the 3 chain.
6th row11 chain, 1 quadruple
treble on the 2nd treble of the last
row; 4 chain, 1 quadruple treble on
the 3rd treble and so on, in all 32
trebles including the 7 chain.
7th row1 chain, 5 plain on 4
chain.
8th row3 plain on the 3 first
over 16 stitches.
Make no single scallop after the 4th
triple one; which is immediately
succeeded by the 5th triple scallop,
over 16 stitches.
Altogether, round each star, there
are 9 triple and 8 single scallops.
After the 8th single one, make 3
plain stitches on the 2 chain stitches
of the connecting bar.
On the 32 plain stitches of the last
bar: 8 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12
chain, bring them back and join to
the 5th of the 8 plain = on the 12
chain: 5 plain, 2 chain, draw the
chain stitches.
2nd row* 1 chain, 1 half treble, 1
treble, 1 treble 1 treble long, 1
double treble, 1 triple treble **.
Repeat from ** to *, and the whole
series 4 times.
3rd row* 1 chain, 3 plain, 1
picot, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 4
chain = coming back, 4 plain on the
4 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain = on the
stitches of the 2nd row: 2 plain, 1
picot, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5
chain, miss 1, 4 plain = coming
back: 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4
times from *, fasten off.
leaf.
2nd leaf16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain,
2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1
treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2
chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain,
miss 1, 1 plain on each of the
remaining stitches. The rest the
same as for the right leaf.
3rd leaf12 chain, miss 1, 2 plain,
2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain,
miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1
treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on
each of the remaining stitches. The
remainder, as well as the little ring,
the same as for the right leaf. Make
altogether 4 leaves for the right side
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents.
FOOTNOTES:
Tatting.
HANDS.
and trebles.
Medallion (fig. 505).Take two
colours of thread and fill two
shuttles with the light colour and
two with the dark. Make with one
shuttle: 24 double and 12 picots, 6
of them short and 6 long; close the
ring, break off the thread and fasten
off the ends by a stitch or two on the
wrong side.For the next 4 rows
take two shuttles.
CROCHET.
combination of colours.
Rouge-Grenat 326.
Begin with two shuttles, the red
thread across the left hand = 10
double, 1 picot, 6 double = with
one shuttle: 6 double, 1 picot, 6
double, close the ring = turn the
work = make a second ring like the
first and close to it = turn the work
= with two shuttles: 6 double, 1
picot, 6 double = with one shuttle: 6
double, pass the thread through the
picot of the ring opposite, 6 double,
close the ring = 6 double, 1 picot, 6
double, close the ring = turn the
work to make the next half ring.
Make
rows
of
half
rings
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
Macram.
may
be
of
Knotting on threads on to a
knotted heading (fig. 517).Make
flat double knots as in fig. 516,
detail d, on a double cord and then
knot on your threads on to the loops
of the double knots, putting the loop
through from the right side, so that it
may lie at the back. Use double
WITH SCALLOPS.
HALF KNOTS.
shuttles
simplify
the
work
enormously and are made hollow so
that they can be mounted and filled
on the spindle of any sewing
machine.
557.
Macram fringe (figs. 560 and
561).Entire length of the threads,
including the fringe, for No. 5 of
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 120 c/m.
BORDER.
plain bar.
and Rouge-Grenat 358 or VioletMauve 315 and 316, and VertBouteille 494.[A]
Knot on double threads, as in figs.
517 and 524, to count as single in
the working directions = * 1 thread
of red, colour 358, 3 of cru, 1 of
red, colour 358, 1 of red, colour
321, 3 of cru, 1 of red, colour 321,
and repeat from *.
1st row6 chain knots made with
every 4 threads.
2nd rowa single horizontal bar of
knots.
left.
The light thread is afterwards
looped into the blue thread on the
right = 4 collecting knots over 6 red
threads on the right and left, 1
collecting knot over all the red
threads and one, on both sides, over
6 red threads.
After joining the threads on both
sides, carry on the single chain with
3 changes of the threads = over the
first red thread of the left chain,
make 1 double horizontal bar with
all the disengaged threads = below
the bar, 4 flat double knots = 1
single horizontal bar = 8 double
in fig. 558.
Macram border (figs. 580, 581,
582).Wind the threads on shuttles
and knot them on, as in fig. 515, in
the following order: 2 threads of,
either colour 334 or Chin d'or
(blue and gold), 2 of colour 330, 2
of colour 392, 1 of colour 432, 1 of
colour 310, 2 of colour 430, 1 of
colour 310, 1 of colour 432, 2 of
colour 392, 2 of colour 330, 2 of
colour 334, or of Chin d'or blue
and gold.
the right.
On the rightover the 1st dark
brown thread, 1 knot with a brown
thread and the black one.
On the leftthe same knots over the
last thread.
On the rightover the last brown
thread one knot with the black one.
On the leftover the 4 light green
threads and the 4 blue ones, double
knots with the 4 brown threads and
the black one = 1 double knot with
the 1st light brown thread over the
2nd, 3 double knots over the 2nd
521, followed
horizontal bar.
by
double
second row.
After knotting the threads together,
two and two, and pinning them to
the cushion, see letter a, make 2
single chains with 2 changes of the
thread, letters b and c, then take a
very long cord, letter d, and knot on
the threads. The cord forms picots
along two sides of the square; into
which you fasten threads, letters e
and f, for the single chain formed,
on the two other sides by the
knotting threads.
595.
The coloured threads for the
flowers are knotted on as the
pattern requires it, taking the place
for the time being, of those with
which the foundation is made,
which are left hanging on the wrong
side until they are wanted again.
The top leaves of the iris shaped
flower, are worked in two shades
of blue; the bottom ones, in three
shades of red, the stalk and the
leaves in green, and the little stars,
with which the ground is powdered,
in real gold thread.
cru.
The pattern is so simple in its
construction that it is sufficient to
refer our readers to fig. 528, for the
knotting on of the threads and to fig.
531, for the waved plait.
The little tassels between the knots,
are made separately from the rest of
the work and fastened on by the
thread with which you sew them
together at the top.
Macram ground (fig. 598).The
work represented in the engraving
was made for a purse and copied
from a beautiful piece of Arabian
tatting.
Fringe with corner (figs. 601, 602,
603).Macram fringes are not
capable of being drawn up, as
knitted, crochet, and netted fringes
are, on the inside, so as to turn the
corners. Consequently, according to
the pattern, a greater or less number
of supplementary threads have to be
knotted in so as to form the corners.
Cardinal 348.[A]
The working detail, fig. 602, shows
us how the 5 first supplementary
threads, are looped on to the 4th
row of knots. A group of crossed
bars requires 16 threads, which
answer to 4 groups of little squares,
placed between the lozenges. The
6th supplementary thread is put into
the double connecting knot at the
corner, fig. 603, and on this, the bar
of knots which runs right and left is
subsequently made. (In order to
make it clearer, the supplementary
threads are represented in the
engraving in a darker shade).
TASSELS IN FIG.
604.
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
Netting.
(knitting cotton).
Netting stitches.The loops are
always the samefour-cornered
whether they be square or oblong
and connected together, though
secured and rendered independent
of one another by knots. By
different ways of passing the thread
over the mesh and connecting the
loops together, the following
stitches are produced: 1 plain
loop, 2 double loop, 3 oblong
loop, 4 honeycomb loop, 5
twisted loop.
Oblong
loop.For
oblong
25 to 40.[A]
For the darning stitches: Coton
tricoter D.M.C Nos. 12 to 20, or
Coton repriser D.M.C Nos. 12
to 50.[A]
1st rowlong loops, to be made by
the thread being passed thrice over
the mesh.
2nd rowhere, 3 loops are so
made as to cross each other, that is,
you begin by putting your nettingneedle at first into the 3rd loop,
counting from left to right, then into
the 1st, and lastly into the middle
one of the three, so that the right
loop leans to the left and the left
the
patterns
afterwards
embroidered upon them in coarse,
white knitting or darning cotton,
show best upon it. The thread for
this purpose should be used double,
and the pattern worked in darning
stitches, made over 8 squares of the
netting; the 8th knot is then
encircled by a loop and the thread
carried down over 8 squares and a
loop again made round the 8th knot.
After making 4 rows of stitches on
the netting, cut 3 bars between the
rows of white stitches.
The row of openwork produced in
this way has a very good effect and
required,
and
this
renders
embroidered netting very popular.
The needles should be long, and
blunt; those called saddlers needles
are the best.
Wire frame for embroidered
netting (fig. 634).The frame on
which the net is stretched should be
made of strong iron wire, that will
not bend in the using. In shape, it
may be square or oblong, according
to whether squares or edgings are to
be made upon it, but the sides must
be straight, so that the net can be
evenly stretched.
Materials
for
embroidered
netting.Thick threads with a
strong twist are the best for darned,
or embroidered netting, such as
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A] (crochet
cotton), or Fil dentelle D.M.C[A]
(lace thread).
There are however certain old
kinds of embroidered netting made
in soft loose silk, for imitating
which it is best to use, Coton
repriser D.M.C[A] that being quite
the best substitute for the original
material.
The
stitches
used
for
embroidered netting.These are
OF THE CORNERS.
THREADS.
needle.
netted ground.
rows.
white or cru.[A]
Fig. 685 represents a lace edging
intended for the square fig. 684,
which shows how even in such a
simple pattern as this, several
colours may be successfully
introduced.
embroidery.
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
Irish Lace.
bars
with
pinned
buttonhole
picots
are
PICOT.
702).Over
two
foundation
threads, make double knots, far
enough apart to leave room for the
knots of the next row between.
These double knots consist, in the
first place, of one plain buttonhole
stitch and then one reversed, that is,
made by bringing the needle out in
front of the thread and passing it
under the loop; the result being that
the thread will lie behind the thread
and not before it, as in an ordinary
buttonhole stitch.
Branched bars (fig. 703).Where
you have a larger surface to cover
with bars, you are generally obliged
buttonhole stitches.
wide.
buttonhole stitches.
row.
Fig. 729 requires five rows. The
stitches of the first must be set as
closely together as possible; in the
second row you make four stitches
and miss two of the first row, in the
third row you make three stitches,
in the fourth, two and in the fifth,
one only. The long loops of the last
row must not be too slack so that
the first stitches of the next scallop
may quite cover them.
Eleventh lace stitch (fig. 730).
This stitch is not really more
difficult to work than those we have
been describing, but requires rather
row.
Nineteenth lace stitch (fig. 738).
The close stitch here represented
is more common in Venetian lace
than the loose stitch given in fig.
737.
form
straight
BEGUN.
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
Laces of different
kinds.
775.
This cylinder scarcely projects
above the stand, a second groove in
the back edge receives the lace as it
is worked off the cylinder.
The pillows used for Valenciennes
lace are of again a different
construction, but as it is not our
intention in the present work to
describe the finer kinds of lace it
appeared superfluous to give any
illustration of the pillows on which
they are made.
The bobbins (fig. 777).A bobbin
is a sort of little wooden spool with
in
texture
pricked.
The pattern should be adapted to the
thickness of the thread the lace is to
be made of; for a coarse lace large
point paper should be used and
small, for the finer kinds of lace.
The pricking of the pattern
beforehand is particularly important
in the case of the common torchon
lace, where the real beauty of the
design consists in its regularity; in
the case of fine close patterns the
pricking can only be done as you
proceed.
Prickers and holders of the kind
represented in fig. 782 or very
edgings.
FIG. 799.
LACE WITH TORCHON GROUND AND
EDGE IN NET GROUND.
MATERIALS: Fil pointer D.M.C
No. 30. Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 20 to 100, or Fil dentelle
D.M.C Nos. 25 to 150, white or
cru.[A]
Put up a pin at * = make net
passings, fig. 786, to point 1 = put
up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin
with the two last pairs on the right =
net passings to point 2 = put up a
pin at point 2 = lay one pair of
bobbins aside = net passings to
point 3 = put up a pin at point 3 =
35.
811.
The number of knots should be the
same in each row, and the four
sides of the square should be all
equal.
When the squares are finished they
are edged with picots on the two
lower sides, as shown in fig. 812.
Thread of two colours was used for
fig. 811, the squares being worked
alternately in cru and BrunCaroubier and the picots, all in the
latter colour.
Lace and insertion in knotted
fig. 700.
material does.
Of all the different kinds of thread,
so frequently alluded to in these
pages, the higher numbers of Fil
d'Alsace D.M.C and Fil dentelle
D.M.C are the best for the finer
kinds of lace, and they all have the
soft ivory tint, we so admire in the
old needlework.
Spray in needle-point (fig. 830).
Needle-point lace, also called
Brussels lace, requires the same
preparatory work as Venetian lace;
but it seldom contains such a
variety of stitches and openwork as
the latter.
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
Miscellaneous fancy
work.
of a crochet needle.
You tie two ends of thread or braid
together, take one thread in the left
hand fig. 831, and with the
forefinger of the right, pull out a
loop long enough for the left
forefinger to pass through and hold
the end of the thread tight with the
little finger of the right hand.
Then draw the left forefinger
backwards through the loop and
behind the thread that is round the
loop and lies in the left hand, fig.
832. As you lay the thread round the
left forefinger, you must pass the
knot and the ends of thread as well,
FIRST
DETAIL.
DETAIL.
ordinary
satisfactory
needlework.
imitation
of
old
Next Chapter.
Return to Table of Contents.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the
concluding chapter, the table of
numbers and sizes and the list
of colours of the D.M.C
threads and cottons.
Practical directions.
manner.
Tracing patterns against a
window pane.In order to copy a
pattern in this way, the first step is
to tack or pin the piece of stuff or
paper on which the copy is to be
made upon the pattern. In the case
of a small pattern, the tacking or
pinning may be dispensed with and
the two sheets held firmly pressed
against the window pane with the
left hand, whilst the right hand does
the tracing, but even then it is safer
to pin or gum the four corners of the
two sheets together, in case of
interruption, as it is difficult to fit
you
have
finished
the
all circumstances.
The rougher and more hairy the
surface, the finer the brush ought to
be, in order that the colour may sink
well in between the fibres.
Before beginning to paint in the
pattern, gently blow away all the
superfluous powder from the
surface. This process may be
objected to as being an old one
which has been superseded by new
inventions; a resinous powder for
instance, by the use of which
patterns can be fixed, as soon as
they have been pounced, by passing
a hot iron over the stuff, a sheet of
want,
for
example,
to
ORIGINAL SIZE.
quantity.
Embroidered network can be
stiffened in the same manner and
should be damped in the frame on
the wrong side and not taken off
until it is quite dry.
We even recommend embroidery on
linen being treated in the same way
but when the linen is very creased,
cover it with a damp cloth and iron
upon that first, then take the cloth
away and iron the embroidery itself
so as to dry it completely.
To wash ordinary lace.Wind it
round a bottle the same width top
proceed.
Lace should never be pinned out
when it is dry as the threads of the
picots are then very apt to break
and torn picots destroy the value of
even the choicest lace.
Raised lace has to be stamped out
from the wrong side with a lace awl
or kind of pricker of bone made for
the purpose. Some professional
lace-cleaners use this implement
even for Valenciennes lace but we
cannot recommend it, seeing that it
is a lace that is by nature perfectly
flat.
...
3325
3395 3306
...
...
...
...
3307 330
448
...
Ciel
BleuFayence
Bleu de
France
BleuGentiane
Bleu-Gris
BleuIndigo
BleuLapis
BleuMarin
Bleu-
515
516
517
518
481
482
483
484
337
338
339
340
476
477
478
479
3300 3301
3302 330
336
311
312
322
342
333
343
344
505
506
507
508
Outremer
...
682
683
...
Bleu ple
BleuPrunelle
Bleu
tendre
Bleu vert
...
...
...
668
486
487
488
489
...
...
...
...
525
526
527
528
...
674
675
...
585
586
587
588
300
400
301
401
Bleu
violac
Bronze
dor
Brun-
Acajou
BrunCachou
BrunCannelle
BrunCaroubier
BrunChamois
433
434
435
436
660
661
662
663
354
355
303
356
416
417
324
418
Brun-Cuir 430
BrunFeuille615
morte
Brun454
Havane
431
302
432
616
617
618
455
456
457
BrunLoutre
BrunMarron
BrunMyrthe
Brun-Puce
BrunRouille
GrisAcier
GrisAmadou
Gris
438
439
440
441
403
404
405
406
...
...
463
...
459
...
...
...
3310 3311
3312 331
650
651
652
653
329
383
384
385
...
...
719
...
d'Argent
Gris-Bleu
Gris-Bois
Gris-Brun
GrisCastor
GrisCendre
GrisCoutil
590
610
408
591
611
409
592
612
410
593
613
411
645
646
647
648
413
317
414
318
387
388
323
389
656
657
658
704
705
706
707
708
...
Gris655
Deuil
Gris-cru ...
Gris-
...
Etoupe
Gris de
Fer
GrisFeutre
GrisFicelle
Gris-Foin
GrisFume
Gris-Lin
GrisMastic
Gris
neutre
600
601
602
603
635
636
637
638
...
460
461
462
520
521
522
523
640
641
642
643
...
...
716
717
...
...
718
...
620
621
622
623
GrisNoisette
Gris-Perle
Gris de
Plomb
GrisPoussire
GrisSouris
GrisTilleul
Gris
verdtre
Jaune-
420
421
422
423
625
626
627
628
378
379
380
381
630
631
632
633
425
426
427
428
391
392
393
330
595
596
597
598
...
307
445
446
Citron
JauneCrme
JauneMas
Jaune
d'Ocre
JauneOrange
JauneRouille
...
...
711
712
575
576
577
678
...
...
676
677
...
...
443
444
363
364
308
365
...
667
...
679
680
...
Noir
grand-teint 310
398
314
328
...
...
...
Noir-Jais
Noir vert
RoseEglantine
Rose
tendre
681
473
...
...
...
...
...
...
570
571
572
573
...
...
...
...
Rose vif
Rouge-
565
566
567
568
360
306
361
332
Aurore
Rouge496
Bordeaux
RougeCardinal 346
RougeCerise
RougeCorinthe
RougeCornouille
RougeEcarlate
RougeFramboise
497
...
...
347
304
305
3315 3316
3317 331
...
...
447
...
...
449
450
...
...
498
464
...
684
685
686
687
Rouge349
Granium
Rouge358
Grenat
Rouge605
Groseille
RougeMaroquin ...
RougeTurc
RougeVermillon
VertBouteille
Vert-
350
351
352
359
326
309
606
607
608
...
3327 332
...
...
321
...
...
...
666
...
491
492
493
494
Bronze
669
Vert545
Canard
Vert665
Corbeau
Vert dor 580
Vert d'Eau ...
Vert-de...
gris
Vert555
Emeraude
Vert689
Fauve
Vert-
500
670
671
672
546
547
548
...
...
...
581
...
582
713
583
714
474
475
...
556
557
558
690
691
692
501
502
503
Lierre
VertMadeira
VertMalachite
Vert
mtallique
VertMousse
VertMyrthe
...
...
...
710
560
561
562
563
465
466
467
...
468
469
470
471
535
536
537
538
Vert-Olive 510
Vert694
Perroquet
511
512
513
695
696
697
367
320
368
Vert-
319
Pistache
Vert-Pr
Vert russe
VioletAmthyste
VioletEvque
VioletLie-de-vin
VioletMauve
699
...
700
499
701
...
702
...
3320 3321
3322 332
451
452
453
...
370
371
372
373
375
315
376
316
Violet-de540
Parme
541
542
543
Violet-
Pense
530
531
532
533
Violet550 551
552 553
Prune
Violet394 327
395 396
Scabieuse
TrsCouleurs fonc Fonc Moyen Cla
Colours
Very Dark Medium Ligh
dark
To avoid mistakes the public is
urgently requested to designate the
colours by the number, never by
name.
The colours whose numbers begin
with 3 or 4 are the fastest.
FOOTNOTES:
[3] The D.M.C colour-card
consists of 450 shades about
half of which are fast dyes. See
the list of names on pp. 572
and 573.
[4] By fast (bon-teint) colours
are meant those which will bear
ordinary and repeated washing.
There are only very few which
are really fast, or grand-teint,
that is to say, which will resist
the action of chemical agents,
amongst of these, the black,
Noir
310,
is
quite
indestructible.
ENCYCLOPEDIA
OF
NEEDLEWORK
BY
THRSE DE
DILLMONT
ENGLISH EDITION
To be had:
of TH. DE DILLMONT,
DORNACH, Alsace,
and at all booksellers, and
embroidery shops.
Preface.
The absolute want of any
comprehensive book on needlework
such an one as contains both
verbal and pictorial descriptions of
everything included under the name
of needleworkhas led me to put
into the serviceable form of an
Encyclopedia, all the knowledge
and experience, which years of
unceasing study and practice have
enabled me to accumulate on the
subject, with the hope that diligent
female workers of all ages, may be
TABLE OF
CONTENTS.
PREFACE.
PLAIN SEWING
Stitches
Seams
Gathering
Sewing on cord and flaps
Button-holes
Sewing on buttons
Binding slits
Sewing on piping
Fixing whale-bones
Page
10
11
12
13
13
Herring-boning
14
MENDING
Linen darning
Satin or twill darning
Damask darning
Fine-drawing
Patching
SINGLE AND CUT OPENWORK
Hem-stitching
Open-work patterns
Cutting out threads at the
corners
Cut open-work
Patterns for cut open-work
15
16
17
18
20
20
23
24
27
39
40
42
51
Net embroidery
Net patterns
Net darning
Damask stitches
WHITE EMBROIDERY
Stitches
Different kinds of scallops
Eyelet holes
Six ways of making dots
Venetian embroidery
Patterns and alphabets
FLAT STITCH AND GOLD
EMBROIDERY
51
52
62
63
76
77
79
80
81
82
83
105
105
106
108
109
110
111
113
113
115
119
120
127
128
129
138
143
152
171
172
173
178
182
183
184
Toes
Mending knitting
Piqu patterns
Patent knitting
Turkish stitch
Knitting patterns
CROCHET WORK
Position of the hands
Stitches
Method for copying tapestry
patterns in crochet
Crochet with soutache or
lacet
Crochet square, hexagon and
star
189
190
195
201
201
203
221
223
223
238
239
240
Tunisian crochet
Hairpin crochet
Patterns for hairpin crochet
Crochet lace patterns
Crochet counterpanes
Crochet stars
Crochet collar
Crochet chair-back
TATTING
Position of the hands
Knots
Patterns of scallops and
medallions
MACRAM
Materials and implements
241
243
245
249
284
300
304
316
325
326
328
331
343
344
345
360
Macram patterns
NETTING
Implements and materials
Stitches
Patterns produced in netting
Mounting the netting on the
frame
Stars and wheels
Grounds and lace
Embroidery on netting
Netted insertion
IRISH LACE
Materials
361
395
395
397
400
410
414
423
434
438
439
439
440
442
445
450
467
468
473
474
481
481
503
505
Reticella-lace
Venetian-lace
Brussels-lace
MISCELLANEOUS FANCY
WORK
Knotted cord
Balls for trimmings
Tambour work
Smyrna stitch
Malta stitch
Triangular Turkish stitch
Turkish embroidery
Appliqu-work
Morocco embroidery
508
510
515
517
518
519
521
523
525
526
530
531
535
Spanish embroidery
Different kinds of linen
stitches
Pattern for linen stitches
Pattern for Roumanian stitch
536
546
546
551
553
540
541
544
553
557
564
565
565
566
566
566
567
568
569
ALBUM DE
BRODERIES
AU POINT DE CROIX.
(Album of cross-stitch
embroidery)
BY TH. DE DILLMONT
32 Plates with 278 Designs, and a
complete treatise on the embroidery
itself.
Quarto; artistic boards, price 1s.
6d.
FIG. 153.
To be had by applying to the
Author and Editor TH. DE
DILLMONT, DORNACH, Alsace,
and at all the leading booksellers
and Embroidery shops.
FIG. 153.
To be had by applying to the
Author and Editor TH. DE
DILLMONT, DORNACH, Alsace,
and at all the leading booksellers
and Embroidery shops.