Basic terminologies

Machine knitting
Knitted structures are progressively built-up from row
after row of intermeshed loops. The newly-fed yarn

for fabric knitting is converted into a new loop in each needle hook.

VASANT R KOTHARI - has done Master’s in

Textiles Technology from DKTE’s Textile and
Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji (Shivaji
University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra. He has also The needle then draws the new loop head first through
done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel the old (fabric) loop, which it has retained from the
Export) from the Indian Institute of Export previous knitting cycle.
Management, and Garment Export and
Merchandising Management from NIFT,
Bangalore. Presently, he’s working as an Assistant
Professor in Department of Fashion Technology,
NIFT, Bangalore. (This is his second input from the
series of articles in knitting Views)

The needles, at the same time, release, (cast-off or knock-

over) the old loops so that they hang suspended by
their heads from the feet of the new loops whose heads
are still held in the hooks of the needles.

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 Wales
Wales are columns of loops across the
length of the fabrics; they are measured in
units of (Wales/cm). Wales generally
produced by the same needle knitting at
successive (not necessarily all) knitting
cycles. A wale commences as soon as an
empty needle starts to knit.
The numbers of wales determine the width
of fabric.
A cohesive knitted loop structure is thus
produced by a combination of the
intermeshed needle loops and yarn that
passes from needle loop to needle loop.
The knitted loop structure may not always
be noticeable because of the effect of
structural fineness, fabric distortion,
additional pattern threads or the masking
effect of finishing processes.
Knitted loops are arranged in rows,
roughly equivalent to the weft and warp
Stitch density
of woven structures. These are termed
Stitch density refers to the total number
‘courses’ and ‘wales’ respectively.
of loops in a measured area of fabric. It is
measured in units per square per
centimetre/inch. The figure is obtained by
counting the number of courses or pattern
rows in one inch (or centimetres) and the
number of wales in one inch (or
centimetres), then multiplying the number
of courses by the number of wales.
Courses
Courses are rows of loops across the
width of fabrics; they are measured in units
of (Courses/cm). Courses are produced by
adjacent needles during the same knitting
cycle. The number of courses determines
the length of fabric.
Stitch density gives a more accurate
measurement than does a linear
measurement of only courses or only wales.
Tension acting in one direction might
produce a low reading for the courses and
a high reading for the wales; when they are
multiplied together this effect is cancelled
out. Stitch density is directly related to the
“loop length,” which is the length of yarn
contained in one complete knitted loop.
Loop length
Loop length, measured in millimetres, is the
length of yarn in one knitted loop. It is one
of the most important factors controlling
the properties of knitted fabrics. Generally,
the larger the loop length, the more open
and lighter the fabric.
Loop length will affect the following
parametres:
• Stitch density/fabric density
• Tightness factor
• Fabric weight
• Fabric cost
• Dimensional stability
• Physical performance; pilling, burst
strength
As loop length decreases, stitch density,
tightness factor, fabric weight, fabric cost,
dimensional stability increases and vice
versa. There is a definite correlation
between the yarn count and loop length
of a fabric and this can be defined as the
“cover factor.” The cover factor hence
determines the handle, drape and
performance of the fabric. Just as the yarn
type dictates the optimum loop length, this
in turn dictates the gauge or knitting
machine required to knit the yarn.
Gauge
In knitting, the word gauge, technical
abbreviation GG, refers to "Knitting
machines" fineness and is the number of
needles in a measured space on the knitting
machine. Higher-gauge fabrics (those with
more stitches) are made with finer needles;
lower -gauge fabrics are made with coarser
or larger needles.
"Gauge,” is also termed as “cut” and
“tension.” This “unit of measure” is equal
to the number of needles contained in the
KNITTING VIEWS/MARCH-APRIL 2010/ 23
“gauge” (size) and it is simply countable If we move clockwise from A to D in the
on the bed of needles of each knitting pictures above, we find that the knitted
machines, flat or circular. structures are progressively decreasing
in gauge and in fineness. Gauge is very
important as everyone knits a little
differently; some people knit loosely,
while some knit very tight. When the
4GG same yarn and the same sized needles
are given to two different knitters, there
is a good chance that they will come up
with a different gauge. The gauge of a
knitted fabric depends on the pattern of
stitches in fabric, kind of yarn, size of
knitting needles, and tension of the
Varying types of knitting machines
individual knitter.
measure gauge over different distances 5GG
on the machine. For example, circular knit • The coarser the yarn, coarser will be
hosiery measures the number of needles the gauge and the fewer stitches per
in 1.0 inch, full-fashioned knitting in 1.5 inch
inches, and Rachel knits in 2.0 inches. • The finer the yarn, finer will be the
Because of these differences, it is best to gauge and the more stitches per inch
keep in mind the generalised principle that
• The larger (thicker) the needle,
the higher the gauge, the closer the
6GG coarser will be the gauge and the
stitches.
bigger the stitches
To describe the stitch density of a single
or double knit fabric, the fabric may be • The smaller (thinner) the needle,
designated as an 18-, 20-, 22-, or 24-cut finer will be the gauge and the
fabric. Higher the cut, closer the stitches; smaller the stitches
lower the cut, coarser the fabric. • The bigger the stitches, coarser will
The size of the needle and the spacing of be the gauge and the fewer stitches
the needles on knitting machines per inch
determine the number and size of the knit • The smaller the stitches, finer will be
stitches and their closeness. Each wale is the gauge and the more stitches per
formed on one needle. The number of inch
needles is equal to the number of wales.
In the next session, we would be
The closeness of the stitches determines
discussing about various kinds of
whether a knit fabric will be lightweight
knitting needles
and open, or heavier and denser. The term
gauge is also used to describe the
closeness of knit stitches.

24/KNITTING VIEWS/MARCH-APRIL 2010