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Assignment Outline

• Yarn twist

• Twist direction

• Amount of twist

• Expression for amount of twist

• Purpose/function of twist

• Relation between yarn count & twist angle

• Twist factor

• Relation between yarn count & yarn diameter

• Measurement of determination of yarn twist

• Ordinary twist tester

• Additional features of semi-automatic twist tester

• Function of twist in yarn structure

• Effect of twist on yarn structure

• Effect of twist on fabric properties

• Some description

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►► Twist:
In the spinning process a strand of fibre in more or less
parallel form is drafted and twisted on its own axis to form a yarn. The
necessity for twist in yarn construction is reflected in most but not all
definitions of the term twist.

Generally the twist is defined as the measure of spiral turns given to a yarn in
order to hold the constituent of fibres or threads together.
According to textile institute “The spiral disposition of the components of a
thread, which is usually the result of relative rotation of the two ends” is known
as Twist.

According to “Morton”,
When a strand is twisted the component fibres tend to
take on a spiral formation the geometric perfection of which depends on their
original formation.

Accepting the fact that twist is necessary to give yarn coherence and strength
many question arises. Among them the two important ones are how much
twist must be inserted into a yarn? & what effect has varying amounts of twist
on the yarn properties? Before dealing with such questions that methods of
describing twist and expressing the amount of twist must be considered.

►►Twist direction:

The direction of twist at each stage of manufacture is indicated

by the use of the letter S or Z in accordance with the following convention:

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A single yarn has S twist if when it is held in the vertical position

the fibres inclined to the axis of the yarn conform in direction of slope to the
central position of the letter S.

Similarly the yarn has Z twist if the fibres inclined to the axis of the yarn
conform in direction of slope to the central portion of the letter Z.

►►Amount of twist:
The amount of twist in a thread at each stage of
manufacture is denoted by a figure giving the no. of turns of twist per unit
length in the twisted condition at the stage.

The amount of twist means the number of turns of twist per unit length.
If ‘n’ is the no. of turns of twist in ‘l’ (inch) length of yarn then the amount of
n
twist =
l

n
∴Twist =
l
n l

►►Expression for amount of twist:

TPI Twist per inch (indirect)

TPM Twist per meter (direct)

TPcm Twist per centimeter (direct)

TPF Twist per feet (direct)

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►► Purpose/ Function of Twist:

• To get fineness of yarn
• To decrease irregularity of yarn
• To increase strength of yarn
• To get proper softness of yarn and
• To get twisted yarn

►►Relationship between twist angle and yarn count:

The figure represents idealized elements of a yarn showing one

fibre in the yarn surface following a helical path and making one turn round
the yarn axis.

The twist angle θ is the angle between a tangent to the helix

formed by the fibre and yarn axis. By unrolling the surface layer it is seen that
the fibre become the hypotenuse of right angle tri-angle.

Let,
Yarn diameter = d inch
Length of the yarn occupied by one complete turn of the twist = l inch

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πd
Then, tan θ = …………………….. (1)
l
1
Turns per inch = …………………. (2)
l
tan θ = πd ×TPI

Therefore, tan θ ∝ d ×TPI ………….. (3)

We noted earlier that when the count system is an indirect system

the yarn diameter is proportional to the reciprocal of the square root of the
count.

1
Thus, d ∝ ………………….. (4)
count

From the relationships 3& 4 we can re-write that,

1
tan θ ∝ TPI ×
count
TPI
⇒ tan θ ∝
count
⇒TPI ∝ tan θ × count
∴TPI = k count

Here, K is termed the Twist factor or Twist multiplier which is

directly proportional to the tangent of the twist angle.

In addition, according to the direct system the form of relationship

between per unit length twist factor and count will be changed. The yarn
diameters will now be directly proportional to the square root of the yarn
number.

d ∝ count

Twist factor = Turns per meter × count

k
Turns per meter =
count

►►Twist factor:

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Twist factor or twist multiplier is an expression which is used to know the turns
properties i.e. tells about the twist character of the yarn even without the
knowledge of the yarn count.

For direct system:

TM ( K ) = TPM × count

For indirect system:

TPI
TM ( K ) =
count

►►For direct system:

Let,

The yarn count=`N`Tex

Specific Volume=1.1 cm3
Yarn weight=1 gm

Hence,
N Tex yarn has a length=1,000 m
1000 m 10 5
∴1 Tex yarn has a length = = cm
N N
We know that,

Volume=Cross Sectional Area*Length

πd 2
10 5
or,1.1 = ×
4 N
4 ×1.1 × N
or,d =
π ×10 5
0.375
or,d(cm) = N Tex
100

→ This is the diameter expressed in direct system.

►►For indirect system:

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  N × eT e= 5x 9.5 0
 5 9.5 0 
0.375 1 590 .5
 ∴ T e= x N e
 
or,d(inch) = × ×
100 2.54 Ne

 &1i n =c 2.h5 c4 m

1 1
⇒ d(inch) = ×
28 Ne
1
∴d(inch) =
28 × Ne

→ This is the diameter express in indirect system.

►►Measurement/Determination of yarn twist:

Instrument Method

i. By Ordinary Twist Tester Single Twist Method

ii. By semi-automatic Twist Tester method Single/Double,twist/untwist

iii. By semi-automatic Twist Tester method Multiple twist/untwist

►►Twist Measurement of Plied Yarn:

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• Ordinary Twist tester

• Take up Twist tester

• The Quardant twist tester

►►Types of twist tester:

Ordinary Twist Tester:

It is a fibre-straightened method.

Standard sample length:

 For Cotton=1" or 10"

 For Jute=10"

Procedure:

 At least 1-yard yarn from yarn package should be left out from the free
end.

Yarn(size=10")is clamped bt screw.

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Rotate the handle manually,which is turn rotate the revolution counter.

When the fibre is fully untwisted,straightening is off.

The measurement of revolution in the revolution meter is noted.

No.of obsevation must be minimum 20.

►► Additional Features of Semi-automatic Twist Tester:

• The Machine is uses friendly,in display screen,four different languages are
available for showing output results.

• The test programs are automatically executed.

• The whole system is electrically controlled.

• It is link up to a printer or a PC for documentation and showing output

results.

• It has automatic exact stop.

• It maintains constant thread tension.

• Also has time saving quick clamp system.

►►Function of Twist in Yarn structure:

 A yarn have sufficient tensile strength to withstand the stresses of

preparation and fabric manufacture. The main function of twist is to
give coherence to the yarn i.e twist provide strength in yarn.The
cohension arises mainly from the twist which presses the fibres
together as the stretching forces is applied & so developing friction
between adjacent fibres.

►►Effect of Twist on yarn Structure /Strength:

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The strength vs. Twist curve can be Divided into two sections as follows:

i. A low twist region in whish the effect of cohesion out weights that
of obliquity giving rise to a increase to strength slow at first up to
the point of at whish fibres may just begin to break & increase
rapidly as more & more fibres break.

ii. High twist region in which further increase cohesion no longer

produces an increase in strength since the majority of fibre
break,while the increasing inclination of the fibre cause the
strength to fall.

Fig: Strength Vs Twist Curve

The division between the two regions corresponds to the twist at

which maximum strength is realized in this twist the greater proportion of the
fibres break.

►►Effect of Twist on Fabric properties:

Twist also affects the fabric properties.By varying the automatic of direction
of twist the fabric designer can archive a variety of fabric effects.The
properties, which are afected by twist characteristics of yarn, are the
following:

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Visual properties,

Handle properties(related to handle & drape)

Mechanical properties (related to strength or relsistance to abrasion)

Following are the examples at effect of twist:

1) Shadow stripe effect,

2) Twill line effect,
3) Crepe surface & curf formation,
4) Fancy fabric product.

Multiple twist:

A multiple twisted yarn is made from two single yarns, which

are twisted in Z direction. The twisted yarn itself will be twisted in the S
direction. The rotation of this twisted yarn is more or less a single yarn twist
and the result is, that the fibres will once again lie parallel to the twist axis.
The possibility of variation lies in the amount of the spun fibres as well as in
the amount of the twist rotation. The optimum characteristics of the products
can be brought out in this way. Stronger twists for weaving mills and softer
ones for knitting mills are the general rule.

Sewing thread:

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The sewing thread is normally made of three S-twisted single yarns, which are
twisted together in the Z direction.
A tear-resistant thread with a round transverse section will thus be created
The voile:

The voile is produced from a spun fibre which is twisted in Z

direction. The special thing is, that the twisted yarn is also twisted in the same
direction, as the spun fibre (z direction). A hard twisted yarn is the result, with
a tendency to curl. The fabric made from it, will be transparent, robust in grip.
Curtains were often produced from it years ago. To get a higher transparency
and also to produce luminous colors the finished twisted yarn has to be
gassed. This means that the fibres which stick out are burnt off.
Very highly twisted yarns are called crêpe twists.

Others:
Fancy twists or nub yarns are twisted yarns which are made from different
kinds of components such as nub, loop and other effects and are produced on
special machines.

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Special constructions are multiple and multi stage twisted yarns, which are in
praxis of little consequence due to the price factor.

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