Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
APPAREL GLOSSARY
Arm’s length The term used to indicate the visual inspection of a garment by
viewing the garment away from the body at a distance that is equal
to the extended length of an average adult's arm, as a consumer
would.
3-pt. Measure A method of measuring the high and low hip points of measure. It
technique involves measuring down a specified number of cm in 3 places and
measuring across to "join" the 3 points of reference, which make a
slight “V”.
A & B Zones Defect classification of obvious and non-obvious areas on apparel
or accessories.
Abrasion mark An area damaged by friction. (Also Chafe mark)
AC or Acceptance The maximum number of non-conforming items in a sample that
Number allows a lot to be accepted.
Acceptance A process in which a representative number of products are
Sampling evaluated in order to determine the acceptability of a given lot.
Acceptance testing Physical testing performed to decide if a material, product, or its
compounds meet acceptance criteria.
AH Armhole. A point of measure on a garment top.
Antibacterial Helping to prevent or destroy the growth of bacteria.
Antifungal Helping to prevent or destroy the growth of fungus.
Antimicrobial Helping to prevent or destroy the growth of microbes.
Appliqué A pattern or shape applied to the surface of another material for
decoration, frequently of a different type and shade of material.
Approved A status assigned to a sample that conforms to all QVC’s
Disposition specifications and quality requirements.
APS Apparel Product Specification Test Number, referring to the tests
that are required for product categories.
AQL or Acceptable The maximum percentage of non-conforming items at which the
Quality Level process average can be considered satisfactory.
© QVC The Shopping Channel 2004 Page 1 of 25
APPAREL GLOSSARY
Clip mark An undyed place resulting from a metal clip being used on the edge
of a fabric to prevent or correct a selvage turndown during dyeing.
Clouding A scum over a printed area caused by poor cleaning by the doctor
blade. This gives a cloudy or mottled appearance.
Coarse end An end whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to
the fabric.
Coarse pick A pick of filling whose diameter is noticeably greater than that
normal to the fabric.
Coarse yarn A yarn whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to the
fabric.
Cockled fabric Crinkled, shrivelled or ridgy fabric that will not lie flat on the cutting
table. May be caused by irregular twist in the yarns, uneven
tension during knitting or varying degrees of reaction by the yarns
within the fabric to the finishing processes.
Cockled yarn A yarn in which some fibres appear wild or tightly curled and
disoriented. This is the result of some fibres being too long for draft
roll settings so that the succeeding roll grips the fibre before the
preceding roll releases it, causing the fibre to snap and curl.
Cockled yarn often appears as tiny slubs in the fabric.
Cockles Irregular thick, uneven lumps.
Colourfastness A fabric's ability to resist fading when exposed to light, perspiration
or washing. QVC follows AATCC standards for colourfastness.
Colour bleeding The loss of colour from a dyed fabric when immersed in water, dry-
cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium, with consequent
colouring of the liquid medium.
Colour Code A three-digit field in a QVC item number that represents a colour
name. (See also "SKU").
Colour fly Fibres of a different colour appearing in a yarn or fabric caused by
weaving waste fibres into the yarn or fabric. (Also Flyer, Loom fly)
Colour Fly Yarn Foreign fibres of a different colour that are woven into the fabric
and considered contamination.
Colour misdraw The drawing of coloured yarns through the guide bars contrary to
the pattern design.
Colour misdraw The drawing of coloured yarns through the loom harness contrary
to the colour patterns and/or weave design.
Colour out When the colour paste runs low in the reservoir resulting in blank
skips in the print pattern.
Colour smear When the colour is smeared, distorting the pattern.
Colour Stain The undesirable discoloration of a colour on a fabric.
Colour staining The undesired pickup of colour by a fabric: (1) When immersed in
water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium, that contains
dyestuffs or colouring material not intended for colouring the fabric;
or (2) by direct contact with other dyed material from which colour
is transferred by bleeding or sublimation.
Commercial The D.T.I issues Commercial Standards that are not laws but are
Standards important as accepted voluntary benchmarks of performance and
quality by the industry. These standards are usually referred to by
number and spell out test procedures and minimum performance
guidelines.
Compactor crease Hardset creases resulting from the introduction of wrinkled fabric
into the shrinkage control and stabilisation process.
Construction The methods by which a garment is sewn together.
Corrugation A washboard effect resulting from a malfunctioning sanforizer
blanket. (Also Sanforize corrugation)
Country of Origin The geographical location where a product was mainly produced or
constructed.
Crocking The direct colour transfer from a coloured fabric to another surface
by abrasive action. The Fabric Industry has set standards and
tests to measure crocking.
Crowsfeet Fine wrinkles of varying degrees of intensity, size and shape. (May
occur during wet processing and on finished goods after folding.)
CSA Consume Safety Agency. Independent Government regulatory
agencies that help keep families safe by reducing the risk of injury
or death from consumer products.
Curled selvage A selvage edge which is curled. (Also Folded selvage)
Cut selvage Cuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only. (Also Broken
selvage, Damaged selvage)
Damaged The condition of a fabric which renders it unusable for its intended
use.
Dead cotton A small neap of cotton fibres which are gathered on the surface of
the fabric and which is different in colour from the surrounding
fabric.
Decating mark A crease mark or impression extending across the cloth near the
beginning or end of a piece due to the thickness of the fabric leader
seam. (Also Apron mark, Leader mark)
Defect Any deviation in the normal appearance, structure or function of a
product which would likely result in a substandard product, not
saleable as first quality.
Denier A direct yarn count system expressed as the mass in grams per
9000 meters.
Density The mass per unit.
Differential The change in the size of a garment from its original size before
Shrinkage laundering compared to after it has been laundered.
Dimensional The change in length or width of a fabric after a specified condition,
Change such as washing.
© QVC The Shopping Channel 2004 Page 6 of 25
APPAREL GLOSSARY
Dimensional The ability of a fabric to retain its shape and size after wear,
Stability washing, and dry cleaning. This stability is imparted to a fabric by
chemical treatment, mechanical means, construction, or fibre
blends.
Discoloration A change from the intentional original colour of the fabric.
Disposition The status assigned by QVC Quality Assurance to a QVC sample,
indicating the results of the evaluation and the status of the
product. There are four possible dispositions that a sample can
receive: Approved (or Accepted), Conditional, Rejected, or Hold.
Doctor streak A wavy white or coloured streak in the warp (lengthways) direction
of printed cloth caused by a damaged doctor blade.
Double bow Two fabric bows, arcing in the same direction, as in a flattened M
or W depending on the viewing angle.
Double end Two ends where only one is called for by the design of the fabric.
Double hooked bow One hooked bow at each side of the fabric that arc in opposite
directions.
Double pick Two picks in a single shed where only one is called for by the
design of the fabric.
Double reverse bow Two fabric bows arcing in opposite directions.
Doubling A filling yarn twice the normal size due to two ends of roving
running together into a single end of spinning. The same
occurrence in warp yarn would result in a coarse end.
Dragging end An end being knit under erratic tension due to its being entangled
and/or trapped on the warp beam.
Drawback A defect resulting from excessive tension gradually applied to a
number of warp yarns by some abnormal restriction; when the
restriction is removed, the excess slack is woven gradually into the
fabric. Characterised by tight and slack place. (Also Hitch-back)
Drop Test A package integrity test performed by QVC QA.
Dropped pick This is the result of the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless
loom not holding and releasing the filling yarn too soon. This
allows the yarn to snap into the body, leaving a missing pick
partway across the width of the fabric. The released pick is then
woven in to fabric in a somewhat tangled mass.
Dropped stitch Where a stitch has not formed due to malfunction of a needle.
(See Run)
Dry streak Streaks related to dyestuff, its application to, or absorption by the
fabric.
Dubner A 14 line, 15 character brief description/title of a product which is
used for the graphics which appear on-air for customer reference.
Durable Press The ability of the garment to retain the original shape and
appearance after laundering or dry cleaning.
Dustproof A product that is constructed so that when properly closed, affixed,
or applied, dust cannot penetrate the intended protected area.
© QVC The Shopping Channel 2004 Page 7 of 25
APPAREL GLOSSARY
Harness misdraw Where one or more ends are drawn through the harness contrary
to the design of the weave.
Hold Disposition The status assigned to a sample, indicating that a product has
failed to meet QVC requirements that are related to process or
administrative issues, or may still be in the process of evaluation.
The Vendor is not permitted to ship while a Production Sample is in
Hold status.
Hole An imperfection where one or more yarns are sufficiently damaged
to create an aperture.
Hole An unintentional opening in a fabric caused by any broken yarns.
Hook and Loop Generic term for Velcro®. A type of fastener which is made up of
Closure two strips; one side is constructed of loops and one side is
constructed of tiny “hooks” which “stick” together and must be
pulled apart to be separated.
Hooked bow A fabric condition in which the filling or course yarns are in the
proper position for most of the fabric width but are pulled out of
alignment at one side of the fabric.
How to Measure A reference number and corresponding definition of a Point of
(codes) Measure (a specific location of an apparel or accessory item for a
measurement to be taken).
HPS High Point Shoulder. A reference point indicating the highest point
of a garment top at the neckline, edge or seam of the shoulder.
Imperfection A departure of a quality characteristic from its intended level or
state.
Impression Uneven surface caused by pressure, usually around areas of extra
thickness, such as pockets and seams.
Initial Development Preliminary garment measurements provided to a Vendor during
Spec the Product Development stage in order to create a first Fit
Sample.
Inspection The process of measuring, examining, testing, gauging or
otherwise comparing a characteristic or property of a material or
finished item with applicable requirements.
Inspection Criteria The standards to which the finished product will be evaluated
against.
Inspection Service (ISP). A qualified third party who, for a fee, will inspect finished
Provider goods, work in progress, or a specific facility for compliance with
QVC requirements.
Interlining A piece of fabric placed between the shell and lining of a garment
for one or more of the following reasons:
To produce a stiffening effectand maintain the garment shape or
warmth
To add or maintain and/or bulk
To add strength
Loom Bar A change in shade across the width of a fabric, resulting from a
build-up of tension in the shuttle before a filling change. This is
most common on yarn-dyed fabrics.
Loom fly Waste fibres created during weaving that are woven into the fabric.
(Also Flyer, Colour fly)
Loom waste A place in a fabric where accumulated waste off the loom has
founds its way into the fabric either by air current or loom shuttle.
Loopy filling A pick of filling hanging for a split second on a warp knot or other
protrusion until freed by the stroke of the reed. This results in a
short loop of filling appearing on the face of the fabric. (Also hang
pick)
Loopy selvage An improperly woven selvage of uneven width or a selvage
containing irregular filling loops extending beyond the outside
edges. (Also Beaded selvage, Corded selvage, Loopy edge,
Rough selvage)
Loose course A row of loops in the widthways direction that are larger, looser, or
longer than the stitches in the main body of the fabric, due to lack
of correct tension on the yarn.
Lot The part of a consignment or shipment consisting of material from
one production lot. A production lot should be produced under
controlled, consistent conditions.
Lycra® A brand name for the generic fibre spandex that has been
registered with the BSI. Approval must be obtained from DuPont
before using this term.
Machine stop A term used to describe the visible evidence of a fabric having
been stopped in some machine during the dyeing and finishing
process. Generally it appears as glaring shade changes across the
width of the fabric.
Major Defect QVC Specific: Any defect or combination of defects which:
Is a deviation from buyer's specifications
Is a deviation from purchase order specifications
Affects serviceability or saleability
Renders the merchandise second quality
Is a deviation from sample submitted to Quality Assurance
Results in a less than reasonable expection of use
Mark off A defect in finished fabrics in which the fabric shows a distinct
change where it is rubbed or scratched lightly with the finger nail or
other item which does not transfer colour to the fabric.
Mat-up A place where the warp yarns have become entangled so as to
disrupt the proper interlacing of warp and filling. This can be
caused by a loom failing to stop when an end breaks, or the
introduction of a piece of wild yarn from some other source. Mat-
ups may range in severity from minor to very damaging.
Minor Defect A defect that is not likely to reduce the saleability, desirability or
usability of the product from its intended purpose, but is a
departure from established standards. A defect which does not
render the merchandise second quality.
Misdraw – Colour The drawing of coloured yarns through the guide bars contrary to
the pattern design.
Misdraw – Colour The drawing of coloured yarns through the loom harness contrary
to the colour pattern and/or weave design.
Misdraw – Harness Where one or more ends are drawn through the harness contrary
to the design of the weave.
Misdraw – Reed Where one or more ends are drawn through the reed contrary to
the design of the weave.
Mispick Where the weave design is broken by the absence of a pick of
filling. (Also Wrong pick)
Misprint Colours or patterns, or both, either missed, or partially missed,
smeared, smudged, or incorrectly positioned relative to each other.
Misregister Colours or patterns not correctly positioned.
Missed loop (Knitting) A length or lengths of yarn not received by a needle -
Connecting two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent
wales.
Missing yarn The absence of a yarn, often resulting from a machine continuing
to run after a yarn breaks.
Miss-selection Where the design is corrupted by the random dropping of stitches.
This can result from sticking jacks or the erratic behaviour of a yarn
feed.
Mixed end A warp yarn differing from that normally being used in the fabric.
Mixed filling A visible widthways band resulting from filling that differs from that
normal to the fabric.
Mixed yarn Yarn that is alien to a fabric because of its peculiar chemical or
physical characteristics.
Monofilament thread Continuous filament thread. QVC does not accept monofilament
thread in the construction of garments or sewing of labels.
Mottled A term used to describe a blotchy or spotty appearance results
from the uneven application of colour to a fabric, or the uneven
acceptance of colour by a fabric.
Muslin A plain-woven cotton fabric of light/medium weight. Unbleached
muslin is naturally off-white and has small brown flecks. Bleached
muslin is white.
Mussiness Surface distortion in a fabric characterised by objectionable
unevenness due to many minor deformations.
Needle Damage The partial or complete yarn severance or fibre fusing caused by a
needle passing through a fabric during sewing.
Needle line A vertical crack resulting from a bent needle. The design is intact
but the uniform placement of wales is distorted.
Neap A tightly tangled knot-like mass of unorganised fibres.
© QVC The Shopping Channel 2004 Page 14 of 25
APPAREL GLOSSARY
Polybag The outer protective plastic bag which each saleable unit of apparel
or accessory is required to be in. Garment may be folded flat or on
a hanger inside the polybag. Polybag must have bar code and
SKU labelling properly adhered.
Press-off A condition in which the yarn fails to knit and either the fabric falls
off the needles or the design is distorted or incomplete.
Production Lot Production made from the same nominal raw material under
essentially the same conditions during a continuous time frame and
designed to meet the same specifications.
Production Sample A term used by the Apparel Quality Assurance department to
describe the garments coming off of the initial production run of a
style. It is the equivalent of a First Piece Sample on stock items.
Professional Care Overall cleaning and maintenance procedures requiring the
services of a person specially trained or skilled.
Proportion Comparative relation between sizes.
PSFGA Pre-shipment Finished Goods Audit. A QVC-arranged inspection
which takes place prior to shipping of an order to QVC or the
customer, generally completed by a QVC-elected third party.
Pucker A warpwise distortion resulting from uneven wetting-out during
sanforization, generally due to faulty spray heads. It may appear
as a wavy selvage or affect any other area of the fabric. (Also
Sanforize pucker)
Puckering A wavy, three-dimensional effect typified by closely spaced
wrinkles, on either the face fabric, or the backing fabric, or both.
Considered a major or minor defect depending on the degree of
severity.
Purchase Order A legal agreement between two parties (Vendor and QVC), which
establishes all requirements for the agreement to take place.
QA (Quality For QVC purposes, the QA department that establishes and
Assurance) monitors standards, evaluates all samples and specifications, and
determines the disposition of those samples, based in London.
QA Apparel Manual A form which all Apparel and Accessory Vendors must sign and
Acknowledgement date, acknowledging that they have read and understood and will
Letter comply with all QVC requirements stated in the QA Apparel
Manual.
QC (Quality Control) For QVC purposes, the Quality department located at QVC in
Knowsley that inspects finished goods upon receipt at the
warehouse based on criteria provided by QA.
QVC Construction QVC's minimum standards for the sewing of apparel goods.
Requirements
QVC Fit QVC's standards for garment measurements and construction.
Requirements
QVC Manufacturing QVC's standards for garment construction, labelling and applicable
Guidelines laws.
QVC Performance QVC's minimum standards for fabric and apparel characteristics
Specifications and testing.
Random Sampling The process of selecting units for a sample size "N" within a
production lot such that all combinations of "N" units under
consideration have an equal chance of being selected as part of
the sample.
Raw Edges Unfinished seams in the construction of a garment which are prone
to unravelling.
Reed mark A defect resulting from a bent reed wire, characterised by a fine-
lined thin place, either continuous or at intervals, in the warp
direction. (Also Open reed)
Reed misdraw Where one or more ends are drawn through the reed contrary to
design.
Reed streak A warpwise defect attributable to a bad reed. It may appear as
light and heavy streaks due to uneven placement of the yarn, or it
may scuff the yarn varying its affinity for dye.
Reedy A condition characterised by open streaks following the pattern of
the reed wires. This can be the result of a too-coarse reed, wrong
reed-draw arrangement or improper setting of the loom.
Reference Sample A finished product or portion of material used to represent bulk
production in testing and inspections. For Apparel, this is generally
a Production Sample.
REJ or Rejection The minimum number of non-conforming items in a sample that
Number requires the lot to be rejected.
Rejected Disposition The status assigned to a sample/lot, indicating that a product does
not conform to QVC requirements and that the deficiencies are of a
severe nature. The Vendor is not permitted to ship while a
Production Sample is in rejected status.
Relaxed The term that refers to a part of a garment that is free from tension,
stresses or distortion.
Re-order When an order is placed for an item/style that has been previously
ordered by QVC. All re-orders for Apparel must be exactly the
same as the initial order for styling, construction, fabrication,
Country of Origin, etc.
Resistance to The force required to separate the seam to a specified point of
Slippage measure, creating an opening.
Reversible A garment that can be worn either side out/exposed.
Ring A narrow visually different horizontal band.
Rope mark A long irregularly shifting longitudinal mechanically inducted streak.
Rough A descriptive term for a fabric surface which has the feel of
sandpaper. Also a term used to describe a rough or crinkled
appearance resulting from over-sanforization.
Routine Periodic care or cleaning to remove particulate soil and dust.
Maintenance
© QVC The Shopping Channel 2004 Page 17 of 25
APPAREL GLOSSARY
RTV Return to Vendor. When QVC ships the product back to the
manufacturer. The Vendor is charged for the cost of the items.
Stock is returned to the Vendor when product is rejected by Quality
Assurance or via the stock balancing procedure, whereby QVC
arranges with the Vendor to return a percentage of unsold
inventory, provided that it is purchased from the vendor in the
future.
Run A vertical line of unformed stitches resulting from a broken needle
or jack. (See dropped stitch) (Also ladder)
Sample Worksheet See Fit Sample Worksheet.
Sampling plan The method used to select items which are representative of the
quality of a production lot to be inspected.
Sampling plan result The number obtained for use in judging the acceptability of a lot
when applying a sampling plan.
Secondhand Filling An industry product which contains any filling material which has
been previously used. It should not be offered for sale unless a
clear and conspicuous disclosure of that fact is made on the label
and in all advertising and invoices relating to such product.
Section mark Warp bands of different colour, texture, or lustre.
Selvage The narrow edge portion of woven fabric that runs parallel to the
warp. It is made with stronger yarns in a tighter construction than
the body of the fabric to prevent ravelling. (Also known as
selvage.)
Selvage – Beaded A term used to describe a selvage that has a concentration of ends
drawn together forming a cord or bead.
Selvage – Scalloped An unevenness characterised by a regularity of ins and outs. This
can be the result of a tenter frame pulling too tight leaving
indentations between the clips, or from tension build-up in the
shuttle during weaving, resulting in an indentation at each bobbin
change.
Selvage – Slack or The condition where the edge of a fabric is longer than the centre,
wavy causing it to wave or pucker when laid on the cutting table.
Selvage – Tight The condition where the selvages of a fabric are shorter than the
centre, causing the centre to lie in waves on the cutting table.
Selvage – Torn Generally descriptive of the condition where a selvage is torn
repeatedly by a tenter frame while attempting to attain an
excessive width. Also, any place where a selvage is torn.
Selvage – Turndown A place where a selvage folds on itself and runs through squeeze
rolls setting the fold. Also, where a selvage is folded under or over
during any roll-up operation.
Selvage mark A lengthwise crease mark along the selvage caused by an edge
being folded or doubled.
Selvedge The narrow portion of woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp. It
is woven more tightly than the body of the fabric to prevent
ravelling. (Also know as selvage).
Set mark A stop mark resulting from a prolonged loom shutdown.
Shade bar A distinct shade change of short duration across the width of the
fabric. It may be attributable to a change in the character of the
filling or a machine stop somewhere in the preparation, dyeing or
finishing processes.
Shade change A term used to describe a general change in shade, either abrupt
or gradual, that is not confined to, or cannot be described as,
shade-bars.
Shade range A series of colour variations from a specified colour. Not all colour
variances within a shade range are acceptable.
Shaded – Cross Where there is a noticeable shade difference from one side of a
fabric to the other.
Shaded – Side to Where there is a noticeable shade difference from the side of a
corner fabric to the centre.
Shed-splitting A term used to describe multiple yarn floats resulting from improper
harness setting. The harness not being properly set, the shuttle
splits the shed, passing over and/or under ends contrary to the
design of the weave.
Shier Fine fillingwise cracks randomly distributed across the fabric width.
(Also Shire)
Shiner A defect in which streaks have much higher lustre than normal.
Example: A short streak, caused by a lustrous section of filament
yarn.
Shrinkage A decrease in one or more dimensions of an object or material after
being subjected to the care instruction.
Shuttle mark A fine line parallel to the filling, caused by damage to a group of
warp yarns from abrasion by the shuttle. (Also box marks)
Single sampling A sampling plan for which the decision to accept or reject a lot is
based on a single sampling of the lot.
Singling A single yarn appearing in the plied-yarn fabric.
Size range The multiple sizes in which a garment is produced.
Sizing A generic term for compounds applied to yarn or fabric which aid in
the manufacturing process and to improve smoothness, abrasion
resistance, stiffness, strength, weight, or lustre.
Skewness, skew A fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are
angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of
the fabric.
Skip stitch The wrong formation of the knit design, characterised by a yarn
floating intermittently for short distances over yarns with which is
should have been interlooped. This results from a malfunction
needle or jack.
SKN The Stock Keeping Number. Also referred to as the Item Number,
inventory number, or component number. The QVC number
begins with a character followed by numbers, and is up to seven
characters long. The letter relates to the type of product and the
numeric portion is system-assigned when the merchant creates a
new item.
SKU The Stock Keeping Unit is the item number, plus its colour and size
code. It is composed of the SKN and colour and/or size codes. It
may be up to 13 characters -- SKN + colour code + size code.
Slack end A warp yarn woven under insufficient tension. (Also Slack thread,
Slack Warp)
Slack end The result of a loose of broken end puckering as it is gradually
woven into a fabric.
Slack warp A term used to describe a fabric woven with less than required
tension. Extremes result in an overall crimped or cockled
appearance and a stretchy, unstable fabric.
Slam-off A distortion due to the entrapment of the filling carrier in the shed.
Sloughed filling A defect caused by extra winds of filling slipping from the bobbin
and being woven into the fabric. This is usually the result of soft
bobbins wound with insufficient tension or too much power on the
picker stick of the loom.
Slough-off A defect caused by several coils of yarn slipping off the filling
bobbin simultaneously and being woven into the fabric in a group.
Slub A term used to describe a short thick place in a yarn – usually
symmetrical. (Also lump, piercing, slough-off, slug)
Slubby filling A bobbin of filling containing numerous slubs.
Slug A thickened place several times the diameter of the yarn, 3mm or
over in length.
Sluggy filling A bobbin of filling containing numerous gouts or slugs of waste
fibre.
Smash A term used to describe a place in a fabric where a large number of
warp ends have been ruptured resulting in a relatively large hole.
(Also Break-out)
Snag A yarn or part of a yarn pulled or plucked from the surface.
Snap The result of a hard particle becoming lodged under a doctor blade,
holding the blade from the engraved roll, allowing colour to escape
on either side of the particle.
Soiled end A warp yarn that has been soiled by grease or dirt.
Soiled filling A filling yarn that has been soiled by grease or dirt.
Specification A precise statement of a set of the attributes and performance for a
given product or process.
Specks Small pieces of undyed vegetable matter, which can be removed
by carbonising or can be covered by dyeing or inking.
Spew (Spue) Any constituent of leather that comes to the surface in the form of a
white crystallised or dark gummy deposit.
Spirality A distortion of fabric characterised by twisting.
Split-stitch A stitch in which one part of the yarn is knit and the other is
dropped.
Spot A discoloured place or stain on or in a fabric, resulting from any
number of causes and having any number of sources. Terms
applied include: colour spots, resist spots, drip spots, water spots,
oil spots, etc.
Stain An area of discoloration that penetrates the fabric surface.
Stitch density The number of stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in a
seam.
Stitch gauge The perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows of
stitching.
Stop mark A defect resulting from the relaxation of the yarns during a machine
stop when it is started again the slackness is taken by the knit,
leaving a visible change in the density of the knitting across the
width of the fabric.
Stop mark A defect resulting from the warp yarn elongating under tension
while a loom is stopped; when it is started again the slackness is
taken up by the weave, leaving a visible change in the density of
the weave across the width of the fabric.
Straying end The result of a broken end straying out of position and being knitted
in an irregular manner into the fabric as the machine continues to
run.
Streak An extended unintentional stripe of narrow width, often a single
yarn. (Also crease, reed, dye)
Suffocation Warning A warning label which is required by QVC on plastic bags if a
specified thickness is not met.
Swifttack A method of temporarily applying a tag such as a hangtag.
Tacking cut Small holes or cuts along the selvage.
Tailing A blue or break in a print. Also a dyeing defect in which the depth
or tone of a colour changes gradually from one end of the length of
fabric to the other.
Tailing down A defect in roller printed patterns caused by improper cleaning of
the roller by the colour doctor, which tends to pull the colour paste
out of the engraving. A blurred edge occurs at the end of the print
peg.
Tear drop Short elliptical deviations of one or more adjoining picks. (Also
Teariness)
Temple bruise A streak along the edge of a fabric that has been scuffed and/or
distorted by a damaged, malfunctioning or poorly set temple.
Temple mark Small holes or distortions adjacent to the selvage.
Tensile strength The strength of a material under tension, expressed in terms of
force per unit cross-sectional area of the unstrained fabric
Tenter mark A visible deformation on the side edge or body of a fabric due to
pressure from clips or pins. (Also Clip mark, Pin mark)
Test method A definitive procedure for the identification, measurement, and
evaluation of one or more qualities, characteristics, or properties of
a material, product, system, or service that produces a test result.
Thick place An unintentional change in fabric appearance characterised by a
small area of more closely spaced yarns, or by a congregation of
thick yarns as compared to that normal to the fabric.
Thin filling A filling yarn smaller in diameter than normal. (Also Fine filling,
Fine pick, Light filling, Light pick, Thin pick)
Thin place An unintentional change in fabric appearance characterised by a
small area of loosely spaced yarns or by a congregation of thin
yarns as compared to that normal to the fabric.
Thread Count The actual number of warp ends (lengthways) and filling picks
(crosswise) per unit of measurement in a woven cloth.
TIA Textile Industry Affairs. A group that assists apparel and textile
professionals in understanding and implementing the FTC Care
Label Rule.
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APPAREL GLOSSARY
Tight end A tight end will cause a finelined, length or warpwise distortion in
the fabric. Or an end which has shrunk more than a normal
amount.
Tight end An end running taut due to some abnormal restriction. It tends to
force the filling to the surface of the fabric and, in yarn dyes where
a contrasting filling is used. It is very evident and is characterised
by a fine-lined streak of filling show-through similar to that of an
open reed.
Tight pick A filling yarn which was woven under excessive tension or has
shrunk more than a normal amount, which may cause puckering at
the junction with normal picks.
Tight selvage Selvage yarns shorter than warp yarn in the body of the fabric.
Tight twist end A single end with higher than normal twist. (Also Hard end, Wiry
end)
Tolerances Prescribed limits of variation for specified properties of a particular
fabric. These limits are based on observed values of fabric
samples and specified test methods.
Trammage A puckered area in which a filling yarn has twist running in the
same direction for several picks instead of alternating S and Z
twist.
Trapped shuttle A defect resulting from a loom stopping abruptly, trapping the
shuttle in the shed. The effect is that of distorting the fabric and
stretching the yarn; the resulting slackness is woven into the fabric
upon start-up of the loom.
Trash Undeveloped seed, motes, small bits of seed coat, or particles of
leaf appearing as specks. (Also Mote trash)
Trim Card A worksheet that the apparel vendor must complete that includes
information such as QVC item #, and actual samples of trims,
fasteners, fabric swatches. Vendor must submit on card stock.
Submitted to QVC Apparel QA prior to start of production.
TSV Today's Special Value. An item selected by a special committee
as one of the best 364 items QVC will offer in a given year. These
items should offer exceptional value and quality and generate a
specific sales volume in a 24-hour time period. It is offered at a
special, one-day-only price for a 24-hour time period (unless stock
sells out) beginning each day at midnight Eastern time and
generally airing once per Program Host shift.
Tucking defect When the tuck stitching is unintentional and contrary to the design
of the fabric. This may occur intermittently or continuously and is
the result of a malfunctioning needle or jack.
UKAS United Kingdom Accredited Services. A nationwide scientific
organisation with active sections across the country, whose
members are active in the dyeing, finishing, and other chemical
phases of the industry.
Unaided-eye A visual inspection using the naked eye with 20/20 vision, and no
inspection additional tools, such as a microscope.
Undershoot A pick of filling deflected from its normal path through the shed and
extending unbound under warp ends with which it should have
been interlaced.
Uneven dyeing Cloth which shows variations in shade due either to incorrect
dyeing methods or faulty materials.
Uneven filling A filling whose variation of diameter is noticeable enough to detract
from the appearance of a fabric. A few of the causes are: choke on
a drafting roll, poor distribution of fibre length, less than optimum
draft distribution, incorrect roll settings and eccentric behaviour of
drafting rolls.
Upsell An accompanying accessory/complimentary product, most
commonly seen with the TSV.
Velcro® A brand name for hook and loop closure. Approval must be
obtained from the licensee before using.
Vendor Chargeback Vendor Charge Back. A financial penalty levied against a Vendor
(VCB) for violation of QVC's shipping and/or receiving guidelines. There
are a variety of charges associated with issues including prompt
shipping, quality rejections, and violations of QVC's packaging
requirements.
Visual Inspection See Unaided-eye inspection.
Warp float A warp end extending unbound over or under picks with which it
should have interlaced.
Warp streak A narrow band running lengthways and characterised by apparent
differences in colour from adjoining ends.
Warp¹ The yarn in woven fabrics that runs lengthways and parallel to the
selvedge and is interwoven with the filling yarn.
Warp² See bow.
Warpproof For leather goods, the property whereby distortion is prevented by
treating the leather. The leather is expected to remain
dimensionally stable during the intended use for the expected life of
the product or material.
Wash-and-wear A generic term applied to garments which satisfactorily retain their
original neat appearance after repeated wear and suitable home
laundering with little or no pressing or ironing.
Washboard A ridge effect caused by uneven tension between feeds on the
knitting machine.
Water Repellence The comparable resistance of a fabric to surface wetting, water
penetration, or water absorption.
Water Resistance The ability of a material to resist water penetration with a measured
amount of force.
© QVC The Shopping Channel 2004 Page 24 of 25
APPAREL GLOSSARY