-

a southern California climbing magazine

volume 1, number 1 july/august 1996

editorial
* Welcome to mOthEr rOckl
feature
* Classic 5.9 & Under
So Cal Bolt Ladders
trip reports
* Jugs Over the Sand
* Rotten Rock Valley
mini-guide
* The Mentone Boulders
rock of the month
* Aiguille de Joshua Tree
reviews
* One Summer (video)
* Oso Grande! (guidebook)
training
* Campusing for Mere
Mortals
brew of the month
* Weinhart's Hefe Weizen
secret spot of the
month
* huh? where?
other }unk
* climbing web sites
* mOthEr rOck gallery
* events
* letters
* classified

cover photo: Darell Palmer crackin' at Deep Creek Narrows

 mOthEr rOck
hangdoggin'...
...with the editor
Oh No, Not ANOTHER Climbing
Rag...
Welcome to the first issue of mOthEr rOck, a
homegrown newsletter dedicated to informing and
amusing climbers in Southern California.
First let's get something straight. What you won't
see in these pages is trad vs. sport posturing, run-on
sentences about the ethics of bolting on rappel, and other
similar babbling which seems to take up too many
precious pages in our favorite magazines like Rock & Ice
and Climbing these days. Shut up and climb already!
What you will find here is some fun, adventure,
humor, ... whatever. We're not out to find a solution to
overpopulation or world hunger, or make ourselves
financially secure by selling billions of dollars in
advertising. We'll simply give you some information
about local climbing opportunities. You know, the kind
of stuff that helps you enjoy your chosen hobby. Not
the kind of stuff that makes you embarrassed to climb.
As you'll quickly find out by flipping through these
pages, mOthEr rOck is organized into a number of
sections:
• Features: General interest stories covering subjects
such as a certain type of climbing, not specific to a
single climbing area.
• Trip Reports: Narrative descriptions of a visit to a So
Cal (or vicinity) climbing site. May include partial
topos, if we feel like it, or may just reference existing
guidebooks.
• mOthEr rOck Mini Guides: We're not out to reinvent
the wheel here. These are descriptions and topos of
climbing sites that have been underreported,
overlooked, or ignored by local guidebooks. These
may also include newly developed crags and routes at
july/august 1996
well-known sites otherwise covered in guidebooks.
• Reviews: While most review columns in mags are
little more than just a cheap scam to get free gear and
books, we're different. We actually bought this stuff,
so we're looking at it from your perspective.
• Letters: Give us feedback, please. Write or E-mail.
• Training: We'll try to cover as many different types of
training as we can—climbing-specific, general fitness,
cross-training, technique, and mental aspects.
• Climbing Web Sites: I've heard that many a climber
actually owns a computer these days, and some of
them even have Internet access. That's good, because
you'd be surprised how many people are putting up
climbing-related stuff on the WWW these days.
• Brew of the Month: In the words of the immortal
Bing Crosby, climbing without brew is like a day
without sunshine. Well, maybe he didn't say that
exactly, but the fact is that most climbers like to
pound a few once in a while. Here we'll sample some
of the good ones, for the sake of climbing humanity.
Under 21? We're just kidding. Don't read it.
Climbers don't really like beer. Too fattening. We
really drink Snapple. Yeah, that's it. Snapple.
• Rock of the Month: Believe it or not, even more
popular among climbers than drinking beer is
climbing. Again, we'll sample some good ones for
you. Warning: may include some good beta, so don't
read these if you're into working it out yourself.
• Events: Lots of climbing events are happening around
So Cal every month. Here's the definitive list!
• Secret Spot of the Month: Everyone should have at
least one secret spot. Here's your opportunity to
flaunt a picture of it to lots of people. The mass
jealousy will make you feel very special.
• mOthEr Rock Gallery: Sounds mighty impressive.
Really it's just a place to stick a climbing picture or
two, if we need to fill up space in an issue. Oops.
• Classifieds: We'd like to keep up the reputation of
this mag (if we even have one yet) as a great source of
info on climbing in So Cal, and avoid the big full-
page advertising hype. So brief classifieds are the way
we may be able to cut some of our losses on this rag.
Our goal is to provide the Southern California-based non-
hardman climber with a voice. 5.0 to 5.11 climbers
unite! We may occasionally cover some hard stuff, but it
will be more of a "you can do it!" approach rather than
the "if it's under 5.12d it's not real climbing" attitude.
5.8, 5.9, and 5.10 climbers, mOthEr rOck is designed to
be the place where you will find the bulk of your
information!
So subscribe already. Send us a story or a photo of
yourself on your favorite route, we'll more than likely
use it. Or just pick up a copy at your local retailer or
gym and read it. And remember, we're definitely not
making any money here. We're just having some fun
when we're not out climbing,
-ed.
 mOthEr rOck july/august 1996
feature Williamson
• Is Anybody Out There (5.6 **)
Classic 5.9 and Under So Cal Bolt • Being There (5.7 *****)
Ladders • Novus Ordo Seclorum (5.8 ***)
Rotten Rock Valley
So, you think you're ready to blast out a few dozen sport
routes, but you are neither a hard man nor a daredevil. • Rock-It Man (5.7 *)
You dream of that which is not: classic bolt ladders up a • This Rocks for You (5.7 **)
few 5.6 to 5.8 lines, maybe even a 5.9 or two thrown in. • Stout (5.9 *)
You want new bolts, no rusted antiques or spinners; Big Rock
you're simply a PG kind of guy, and want the R/X stuff • The Trough (5.5 ***)
left to the movies. Oh, and nice rap anchors at the top. • African Flake (5.5 **)
Then you wake up. All the bolt ladders seem to • The Roof (5.8**)
start at 5.10c or so, and break the scale at 5.16zzz. Back
to toproping or placing gear ... Otay Crags
But wait—a surprising number of moderate sport • D.J.'s Arete (5.6***)
climbs have popped up in Southern California in recent • Bullfrog Point (5.7)
years. And many of them are of exceptionally high • Ice, Ice Baby (5.8 ***)
quality. You've just got to dig a little for 'em. Here then
is our way incomplete list of bitchin' moderate bolt Santa Barbara
ladders in So Cal. It's only a start... but it's guaranteed • The Rapture (5.8 ***)
to produce hours of fun for the whole climbin' family! • Klingon (5.8 **)
• Ecstasy of Gold (5.8 *)
J-Tree
• Double Dip (5.6 **) The Pinnacles (San Bernardino Mountains')
• Lucky Lady (5.8 **) • Shantytown Swing (5.6 *)
• Loose Lady (5.9+ ****) • Coyotes at Sunset (5.8 **)
• What a Woman! (5.9*)
So polish up your quickdraws and put the cams in
mothballs. HAPPY CLIPPING!

Copyright © 1996 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group.

mOthEr rOck is published six times a year (unless interrupted
by a climbing road trip) by The AMCC Group, P.O. Box
7951, Redlands, CA, 92375-1151.
E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com.
Publisher: Editor:
The AMCC Group Matt Artz
Editorial Board:
Matt McGunigle Darell Palmer Bob Goff
Geoff Wade Jannine Senior Ruth Artz
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send a
check or money order for $10 to mOthEr rOck/The AMCC
Group, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
Subscriptions outside of the United States are $20 annually.
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll consider
Climber on Loose Lady, a classic 5.9+ bolt ladder. it, and we'll more than likely use it. We're a no-budget
operation, so send a SASE if you need your materials back.
High Desert Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you have
• Mojave Green Arete (5.6 **) not yet figured that out, you're an idiot and you should
• Limpside (5.7 ***) probably stop climbing now before you hurt yourself and
• Cheer Me Up (5.8***) others. And if you think you can bet your life on anything
you read in mOthEr rOck, think again. We make no claims
North Shore (Big Bear) to the accuracy of any of the information contained in these
• Barking Fish (5.8 *) pages, and cannot be held responsible in any way for any of
• Arete You Can! (5.8/5.9 PG) your actions, acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own,
• Mr. Friction (5.9 R) bro. That's the way it should be. You're a climber after all.
 mOthEr rOck
trip report
Jugs Over the Sand, Landers
It was late May, and Matt McGunigle and I hoped for one
last trip to J-Tree before the heat got so bad that it
effectively closed off climbing in the Park until Fall.
As we got closer to almighty Josh, dark, threatening
clouds warned us that our day was likely to suck. At the
last minute, we turned north and headed towards Landers,
to try a new site we had heard about: Giant Rock.
july/august 1996
east side (see photo), to some overhanging problems
protected from the rain. Arete Lieback (5.11+ OTD),
with good jugs just out of reach but tiny, slick, sloping
edges down below, kept us occupied for a good fifteen
minutes. Stepping out of our cave with fingers to the
wind, we noticed the rain was coming down pretty hard,
so we decided to bail before the dirt roads turned to
quicksand and swallowed the car.
Jugs Over the Sand
hillside,
more BPs

Adapted from Southern California Bouldering Guide,

Motorcycle ridin', Coors drinkin', shootin' heaven. Craig Fry, 1995.
Oh, yeah, there's good bouldering here, too. Pulling away, we noticed even darker clouds in the
direction of High Desert, which was to be our next stop,
Giant Rock consists of three main areas: Giant
Rock, a big boulder with a number of glue-on routes but blue skies in the vicinity of J-Tree. What the hell.
(Glue-ons??? BITE ME!!! Glue-ons are the silicon We turned left instead of right, and before long we were
implants of the climbing world); DMZ or Sandy Cove, a having a glorious afternoon of bouldering in Real Hidden
relatively new sport climbing area; and Jugs Over the Valley.
Sand, primarily a bouldering site. We stopped at Jugs Jugs Over the Sand. It could be called Jugs and
Over the Sand, because it was the first site we came to Graffiti Over the Sand, Broken Glass, and Spent Shells
and we were getting a little tired of rattling down the dirt ... but it's an awesome site. We'll definitely be back
road. come Fall.
Wow. Despite the graffiti, the place looked rather Getting There: You can get directions in Craig Fry's
stunning. Where the hill meets the sand there is a cluster Southern California Bouldering Guide.
of 20 foot high boulders surrounding a large 40 foot high
boulder. We started at a 5.9+ arete on the north side and Jugs Over the Sand Partial Route Listing
moved our way west, trying a number of problems from 1-5.? TR
5.8 to 5.10+. We then explored the boulders closer to 2-5.? TR
the hillside and found a number of nice problems not 3-5.6 chimney
listed in Craig Fry's guide book. There was no lack of 4-5.10BP
routes, that's for sure. 5-5.11+BP
The holds are generally of high quality and the 6-The Black Prow, BlI ;
landings are typically soft sand peppered with broken 7-Arete Lieback, 5.11+ OTD
glass and spent shells for texture. One notable exception 8-5.10 BP
was the 5.9 face on the northwest corner of the main 9-5.9 BP
cluster (route #17), which starts from a sloping platform 10—Fallen Angel, Bl- * on polished face
of stone. High off the deck on this route, I reached up 11—Polished Steel, 5.10+ * overhanging face
and right for a suspect looking hold. It tested fine when 12-5.1 I B P
weighted, but when committed to, it broke off like wet 13-5.9+BP
sandstone. Thanks to a very solid left lock, I was able to 14-5.10+BP
recover and downclimb without shattering my heels on 15-5.8 BP
the rock below. Next time, toprope this one. 16-5.10 BP, OTD
Just as we started to get the feel of the place, the rain 17-5.9 BP, OTD/R
clouds caught up with us. We moved around to the
 mOthEr rOck july/august 1996

mOthEr rOck mini guide A second brown boulder lies touching the water to
the northeast of the Main Crag. There may be some
Mini Guide to The Mentone Boulders potential for route development on this boulder.

The first time I saw reference to The Mentone Boulders—

a brief paragraph in Craig Fry's Southern California
Bouldering Guide—I couldn't believe it. Was there really
a climbing site I didn't know about within 15 minutes of
my house? How could that be?

The Mentone Boulders

BPs:
Boulder
5.5 face
mm i '• • ' •'" i * *'-'•- -.'/3
*8
5.11 arete 1 .M:-^"*U,. • " • H i - /r?
Vi's '- • . : .1 ' ;
5.11+? fa , ... "ii*lSPr« -

Main Boulder
West face of the Main Boulder, with the 5.7 (to 5.9) arete
problem on the left and the 5.10+ face right of center.

Getting There: To get to the Mentone Boulders, drive

5.7to5.y
S.9^ 5 . 10 +R
north on Highway 38 out of Redlands and Mentone. Just
arete face
before Mountain Home Village, there is a pullout on
Rough topo for Mentone Boulders. your right, leading to a picnic area. Park and follow the
trail from the center of the parking lot through the trees
Although brief, Fry's description was pretty damn and across the braided stream. Just as you come out of
accurate. A 50 foot high brownish crag juts out of the the trees to the river, you will see the Main Boulder in
water on the south side of the river. Another rock of the front of you and the Main Crag across the river. Be
same strange type is the 20 foot high boulder on the warned, the place suffers from the usual rocks-and-water-
north side of the river, which appears to have broken close-to-urban-areas syndrome: graffiti, broken glass,
away from the Main Crag some time ago. partiers, trash, etc. Definitely not the garden spot of So
People have been climbing at The Mentone Boulders Cal climbing, but maybe worth a quick visit if you are
for a number of years, as evidenced by a few rusted in the area.
quarter inch bolts. And although there are only a small
number of climbs and they lack classic qualities, the mOthEr rOck gallery
place still remains fairly popular, as evidenced by a few
shiny new bolts and white chalk marks.
The Main Boulder has a nice 5.7 arete problem
(variations to 5.9) on the northwest corner, a tough
5.10+ face on the west side (bad landing, but TR-able
with two nice, new bolts on top, and a rare-for-So-Cal
one finger pocket down low), and some lesser climbed
problems potentially in the 5.6 to 5.11+ range. In
addition, there are traverse opportunities on the boulder.
The whole rock is pretty slick, with the slickest part
obviously on the upstream (east) side.
The Main Crag has some old bolts that should not
be trusted. Difficult face and crack climbing can be found
on the east, north, and west faces of the rock. The
northeast corner features an awesome looking, slightly
overhanging arete, but the rock is loose. The south side
of the rock, reached by hiking up a well-worn trail up the
back, is only about 20 to 25 feet tall and sports several
more boulder problems ranging from an easy face and
crack to a juggy, overhanging 5.10+ that is quite fun.
Matt McGunigle bouldering in J-Tree.
 mOthEr rOck
trip report
Rotten Rock Valley, Lake Arrowhead,
California
Based in the San Bernardino Mountains, the Rim of the
World Climbing Club (ROWCC) is easily one of the
best organized and active climbing clubs in California, if
not the entire U.S. When I first heard they had been
developing a new site near Lake Arrowhead that had
potential to be quite expansive, my palms started to
sweat.
But when I heard they were calling it Rotten Rock
Valley, I became skeptical. Rotten? Visions of holds
breaking off quickly tainted my opinion of this new
climbing Mecca. Luckily, I was wrong. I now think the
choice of the name Rotten Rocks was a clever sandbag,
akin to naming J-Tree "Stool Pile" or something.
Geoff Wade, Bob Goff, and I met another 25 or so
club members one Saturday for the "public unveiling" of
Rotten Rocks. The ROWCC had put together a draft
guidebook of the area which they distributed to club
members—nicely done at 40+ pages with 170 or so
routes. It's one of the (many) nice fringe benefits of an
ROWCC membership.
We followed Mike Rigney, then-ROWCC president,
and others up the trail from the shooting range. After
what seemed like two or three miles up steep trails and
slogging through brush and over boulders, we finally
arrived at the new climbing Mecca of the San Bernardino
Mountains.
Feeling a bit winded after the approach, we set up at
the base of the Lower Tier, at a place appropriately called
Base Camp, then headed for the rock. Geoff lead Popped
the Cherry (5.8 *, three bolts) on the Virgin Buttress,
and after we had all climbed it and played on the
overhanging entry moves a couple of times, we moved
over to Cut the Crap, Get Real Sweetheart (5.9 *, four
bolts) on the adjacent Rattlesnake Buttress.
Guide book: San Bernardino Pinnacles Climbers Guide
by Pat Brennan and Anthony Gough. $10. Published by
Rim of the World Climbing Club, P.O. Box 1110,
Running Springs, CA 92382.
Rotten Rocks is a new area. The vast majority of
the climbs got their first ascents in 1995 or 1996, and
there is potential for so much more that it boggles my
mind. "Almost every time we come up here," one
ROWCC regular told me, "we find at least one more area handed and blindfolded ascents of way hard problems.
with potential for dozens of more routes."
After a while, we moved up to the Rock-It Wall on
the Upper Tier Buttress. I lead Rock-It Man (5.7 * PG,
four bolts) up a less-than-vertical face, and Bob seconded.
We couldn't find the rappel anchors, so were forced to
downclimb around the back of the formation and thrash
our way back to basecamp. This turned what would have good brew, slap the tape in the old VCR, and get
been a great lead into a royal pain in the ass. But it is a inspired. Guaranteed to get you motivated!
wonderful route.
july/august 1996
While Bob played toproping a few of the moderate
moves on the two 5.lib's in The Pit, Geoff and I began
our search for Thumb Spire. While we were no more
than 200 yards from it, it took us a good twenty to thirty
minutes of thrashing, boulder hopping, and crawling
through caves to find the base. Thumb Spire is a
beautiful formation with three routes on it. We picked
the easiest route, This Rocks for You (5.7 **). Only
three or four moves up, clipping the first bolt, Geoff said
"I'm really tired, you want to lead it?" It didn't take long
for me to say no. The long approach and the thrashing
about had taken it's toll. We rounded up Bob, gave
thanks to Mike Rigney and crew at Base Camp, and
evacuated to Lake Arrowhead for 99 cent Whoppers and
ice cold Samuel Adams.
Since Rotten Rocks is definitely not a summer kind
of place, it nicely rounds out the San Bernardino
Mountains as a year-round climbers' paradise.
Last time I checked, there were close to 200
established routes at Rotten Rocks, with potential for
lots more. This is one of the coolest new areas around.
The only thing that will keep it from becoming another
So Cal rock zoo is the killer approach. Belay-from-the-
bumper types will hate it, but cardiovascular machines
will revel in the multitude of climbing offered at this
new miniature J-Tree in the rough.
Getting There: This area is not only remote, it's
extremely difficult to find. If you can arrange it, go with
someone who knows the way. If not, at least get the
guide book. And good luck.
reviews
Oso Grande! Rock Climbs of North Big Bear.
By Alan Bartlett and Chris Miller.
Quail Springs Publishing. $6.95.
Picking up where W. Scott Hoffman's 1994 Climbing
Routes of Southern California's Big Bear Valley left off,
this guide lists both some new routes and new areas. A
definite must if you plan on spending some time
climbing in the Big Bear area.
One Summer. With Ben Moon and Ben
Pritchard. (video)
Excalibur Distribution $24.95.
Why is Ben Moon a climbing god? Because he's a
bouldering animal, that's why. Watch Ben and his mates
as they power their way up some of the classic boulder
problems in the UK's Peak District. Marvel at the one-
Gasp at them slamming up and down a campus board
like monkeys. Stare dumbfounded at the TV as you try
to figure out what the hell Jerry Moffat is saying.
You must get this video! Watch it ten times. When
you get bored with it, keep it in a safe place for
emergency use. After a crappy day of climbing, grab a
 mOthEr rOck
training
Campusing for Mere Mortals
When Darell told me that he and his wife had bought a
house and escaped the imprisonment of tiny apartments,
he and I of course thought of only one thing: he now
has a garage, and a garage means a climbing wall.
But alas, an indoor gym was not in the cards for
him. Garage too small. Ceiling way too low. No place
else to store all the "crap." And his wife didn't seem too
thrilled with the idea either.
We briefly entertained the idea of creating a 40 foot
traverse along a brand new $5,000 retaining wall in his
back yard, but abandoned that pipe dream quickly.
Because he has plenty of storage on the side of his house,
along with some tall and sturdy trees in the back yard, we
instead set out to build the ultimate portable campus
board. You can too!
Construction is easy. With two sheets of plywood
and a bunch of two-by-fours, you can build a two-sided,
16-foot tall by 2-foot wide board. With various sized
campus rungs lining one side and numerous holds placed
on the other, your woody is a convenient way to get
some climbing-specific exercise in with minimal
investment of both dollars and garage space.
But Darell is no hard man, and neither am I for that
matter. So what in the hell are we doing building AND
USING campus boards?
Mom always said, "don't play ball in the house"...
and the experts always said, campusing is for expert
climbers only. But what they didn't tell you is that with
extreme care, preparation, proper technique, and
moderation, a campus board can be a useful tool for
climbers in the 5.8 to 5.11 range.
Care. Listen to your body. If you don't have
enough experience in listening for the early warning
signs of damage to your own body, you have no business
campusing. At the first sign of any problem, stop
immediately. Rest. See a medical professional if
appropriate. Re-evaluate your program and your goals.
Preparation. You are going to use lots of tape.
Campusing is murder on your finger tendons and your
wrists. Tape heavily, using a good pattern that gives
lots of support yet still allows generously for movement.
Warm up thoroughly, too—campusing should not be
attempted with cold muscles. And if you are not already
using sports massage for both warming up and recovery,
now is definitely the time to start.
Technique. You won't be Ben Mooning on your
campus board, at least not for a while, Ben Jr. But there
are some useful techniques you can use while training on
your campus board to better your climbing performance:
• Death Boarding. The campus board (which sounds so
academic) started out as Tony Yaniro's "death board"
(which sounds so, well, you know). The board is the
same, but the difference lies in feet position. Used as a
campus board, the feet are left dangling and only the
upper body is used for movement. As a death board,
july/august 1996
the feet are also used. By using your feet, you'll put
less pressure on your precious finger tendons and
wrists, yet you'll still get a damn brutal workout.
• Hand Matching. Start with both hands on the same
hold, and feet on lower holds. Move the left hand up,
match the right hand then move one after the other
back down to the starting holds. Repeat until failure.
• Hand Alternating. Move up the board without
matching hands, but rather using alternating rungs.
• Two-Handed Dyno. Match hands on a rung, pull up
with both, and slap both simultaneously on the next
rung up the board. A great mental exercise.
• Blind Folded. Once you get a specific technique wired,
throw on a blindfold and go for it (carefully). You'll
learn a lot about judging distances and commitment
when you can't see the next rung you're aiming for.
Moderation. Once a week or less to begin with.
No more than twice a week when you get really good.
And no more than a few laps/variations per session.
Stop immediately if anything does not feel right in any
way.
Following the above and being extremely careful not
to overdo it, you can expect to see some great gains in
strength in a few months. Climb on!
letters
Dear Editor,
mOthEr rOck RULES! Thanks to your mag, er, rag, I
was able to redpoint 5.14c, develop a vaccine for AIDS,
and find inner peace.
-Mom
Editor's Response: Thanks, mom. It's unbiased
opinions from people like you that make it worth the
pain of pounding the keys of my PowerBookfor
countless hours just to put out another money-losing
newsletter. By the way, your check for a subscription
bounced, so you won't be getting any further issues
unless you send me a money order for $13 (the extra $3
is to cover bank fees for the bounced check). And don't
even think about trying to stiff me and pick up a free
copy at the local REI. XXXOOO, your son.
climbing web sites
Vertical Hold Sport Climbing Center in San Diego has a nice
page at:
http://www.verticalhold.com/
Crux Climbing Gym is the hot new place to be in San Luis
Obispo. See for yourself at:
http://www.crux.com/-crux.
For the most detailed information on the WWW about
climbing in California, surf to the California Climber's
Network at:
http://www.climbnet.com/ccn/
Oh, yeah, and check out mOthEr rOck on-line, at:
http://members.aol.com/mOthErrOck
 mOthEr rOck
rock of the month
Aiguille de Joshua Tree, North Face
Like any classic boulder problem, the North Face of the
Aiguille de Joshua Tree—an easy 5.6 boulder problem on
a 30+ foot free-standing pillar—sums up the essence of
rock climbing in a neat, compact little package. It is
highly efficient, giving you maximum experience with
minimum investment. Rock climbing "Lite."
But not too "Lite." There's a reason for the "X"
appended to the 5.6 rating. While the highly exposed
route up the North Face gets a head start almost halfway
up the pillar, the landing is rocky and jagged. And if you
were to slip and fall a couple of feet to either side, you'd
catch big air as the much more difficult and overhanging
South Face tumbled by your view and you finally
slammed into more jumbled rock, 30+ feet from the top.
Yes the route is easy, but can also be very
intimidating—especially the downclimb. Commented
Darell Palmer on his first time up the route, "This is
easy ... so why am I so f*&#ing scared?"
This is not Wales, mate! Brit Geoff Wade, with an
unfair height advantage, slaps up the North Face.
It's short, it's sweet, and it's almost over before it
starts. It's maybe 10 moves, including the mantle at the
top, and then you're standing precariously on an
approximately 12-inch-square, slightly sloping platform
covered with bird crap. Yes, the view is magnificent
from the top, whether you're a climber looking for a
quick thrill, or an owl looking for an awesome place to
july/august 1996
take a dump. But be careful up there. Even on calm
days in Joshua Tree, sudden strong winds can kick up
without warning and possibly make you lose your
balance. And you probably shouldn't even think about
how close you are to Landers, epicenter of that 7.6
magnitude earthquake a few years back ...
Because it requires 15 to 20 minutes of hiking from
the parking lot, you're not likely to see many other
people around, except maybe on a busy holiday weekend.
The place has a remote feeling to it that you obviously
don't get in some of the more popular and easily
accessible areas of the park.
While you are in the Jimmy Cliff area of J-Tree, be
sure to check out some of the other good boulder
problems, especially those found on the Marley Boulder,
and the wrist-wrenching 5.1 la route "Palomino" on the
Pinto/Palomino boulder. If you still want more, wander
over to the classic Turtle Rock bouldering area across
from the Real Hidden Valley parking area, where there are
more than 70 quality bouldering routes.
The Aiguille de Joshua Tree, 5.6 X. A neat little
climb, for sure, but is it a true classic? That depends on
your definition. But for me and every person I've ever
taken to it, there is no question. The Aiguille de Joshua
Tree is a climb you'll remember for a very long time.
Getting There. In Real Hidden Valley, park in the dirt
lot near the start of the nature trail. Southwest of the
nature trail start, across from the two porta-potties, is a
smaller trail marked for the first few hundred yards with
Access Fund posts. Follow one of the many threads of
this trail southwest and then west along the southern
boundary of the Real Hidden Valley outcrop. You'll
walk right past Loose Lady (5.9+ ****; see photo on
page 2), one of the most popular routes in J-Tree. After
slightly more than half a mile of trail, you'll see the
Aiguille de Joshua Tree thrusting skyward from a small
outcrop between the northern boundary of the Jimmy
Cliff area and the southern boundary of the Real Hidden
Valley area.
(Reprintedfrom What's the Beta. April, 1996, by
permission of the author.)
events
Here's a list of local events happening over the next few
months. Please send event info to mOthEr rOck, P.O.
Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151, or E-mail
mOthErrOck@aol.com.
09 July: Sierra Nevada: Yosemite to Mt. Whitney
slide show. Adventure 16, San Diego. 7 PM.
10 July: Sierra Nevada: Yosemite to Mt. Whitney
slide show. Adventure 16, Solana Beach. 7 PM.
11 July: Sierra Nevada: Yosemite to Mt. Whitney
slide show. Adventure 16, Orange County. 7 PM.
13 or 14 July: Beginning Rock Climbing, Adventure
16, San Diego. $79. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
13 or 14 July: Day on the Rocks, Adventure 16. $80-
$95. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
 mOthEr rOck july/august 1996
13-14 July: Climbing Skills Weekend, Adventure 16.
$145. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
15 July: Sierra Nevada: Yosemite to Mt. Whitney
slide show. Adventure 16, San Fernando Valley. 7 PM.
16 July: Sierra Nevada: Yosemite to Mt. Whitney
slide show. Adventure 16, West Los Angeles. 7 PM.
20 or 21 July: Beginning Rock Climbing, Adventure
16, West Los Angeles. S79. 310-473-4574.
27 July: Day on the Rocks, Adventure 16. $80-$95.
619-283-2362, ext. 156.
27-28 July: Climbing Skills Weekend, Adventure 16.
$145. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
28 July: Anchor Seminar, Adventure 16. $80-$95. 619-
283-2362, ext. 156.
03 August: Junior Tour 96 competition, Rockcreation,
Costa Mesa, CA. 714-556-ROCK.
03 or 04 August: Beginning Rock Climbing,
Adventure 16, Orange County. $79. 310-473-4574.
10 August: Beginning Rock Climbing/Women Only,
Adventure 16, West Los Angeles. $79. 310-473-4574.
10 or 11 August: Day on the Rocks, Adventure 16. $80-
$95. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
10 or 11 August: Beginning Rock Climbing,
Adventure 16, San Diego. $79. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
10-11 August: Climbing Skills Weekend, Adventure
16. $145. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
16-17 August: Sequoia Needles outing, Rim of the World
Climbing Club. 909-881-5882.
17 August: Beginning Rock Climbing/Women Only,
Adventure 16, San Diego. $79. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
The late (not really dead, just moved to upstate New
17 or 18 August: Beginning Rock Climbing, York) Tom Murdoch learning to rappel at ????_
Adventure 16, West Los Angeles. $79. 310-473-4574.
24 August: Day on the Rocks, Adventure 16. $80-$95. Hint: Whoever chopped the rap bolts about two or three
619-283-2362. ext. 156. years ago, thanks for leaving the crappy old quarter inch
24-25 August: Climbing Skills Weekend, Adventure ruster out on the face. Thanks for NOTHING!
16. $145. 619-283-2362, ext. 156.
25 August: Anchor Seminar, Adventure 16. $80-$95. brew of the month
619-283-2362, ext. 156.
08 October: Mt. Everest Peace Climb slide show.
Adventure 16, San Diego. 7 PM. It's gotta be Henry Weinhard's Hefe Weizen. I love a
good wheat beer. Weinhard's complicates the flavor of
09 October: Mt. Everest Peace Climb slide show. their Hefe Weizen by adding a few drops of honey.
Adventure 16, Orange County. 7 PM.
10 October: Mt. Everest Peace Climb slide show.
Adventure 16, West Los Angeles. 7 PM.
14-19 October: AMSAR Technical Rescue Seminar,
Yucca Valley. 619-228-0933.

secret spot of the month

Be the first to ID the obscure So Cal climbing spot

pictured below, and get your name in the next issue and a
free bumper sticker if we ever get around to printing
them up! E-mail us at mOthErrOck@aol.com with your
stab, or if you're not yet on-line send a postcard to
mOthEr rOck, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-
1151.
Weinhard's Hefe Weizen rules. Tell a climber.

page 8
 mOthEr rOck
For the climber who loves the microbrew taste but
can't justify the $5.99 to $7.99 per sixer for the small
batch stuff, and can't stomach processed, pasteurized
urine pissed into cans, Weinhard's is a perfect
compromise: good taste, and many supermarkets carry
twelve packs for around $5.99.
mOthEr rOck gallery
july/august 1996
Mom was right: mOthEr rOck Magazine RULES \e today. One year/six issue
check/money order to mOthEr rOck, P.O. Box 7951,
Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
gratuitous self promotion
AVAILABLE THIS SEPTEMBER: mOthEr rOck
Magazine's Turtle Rock Bouldering Guide by Matt Artz.
The most comprehensive guide available to the mega-
classic Real Hidden Valley/Turtle Rock bouldering area
in Joshua Tree National Park. This book contains
information on more than 70 routes, many of which are
not listed by Mari Gingery, Randy Vogel, and Craig Fry
in their otherwise excellent guides. Lots of photos and
topos.

Climber on Sports Challenge Rock, J-Tree.

classifieds

Advertise here for only $10 per issue, with up to six

lines of text. Bro, that's cheap. $5 more gets your logo
scanned and dropped in. Send your words along with
your check to mOthEr rOck, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands,
CA 92375-1151.

Mountain Sports Unlimited, your new source for Send check/money order for $8 to mOthEr rOckfThe,
climbing and backpacking gear in the Inland Empire. Black AMCC Group, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-
Diamond, Wild Country, Arcteryx, Blue Water, Metolius,
and more. Slide shows, climbing classes, domestic and 1151, and you'll be set. After you buy this guide, all
international mountain trips. 24554 Redlands Blvd., Loma you'll need is a good pair of shoes, a chalk bag, and one
Linda, CA 92408. Phone 909-796-8099. of these:
Join the Rim of the World Climbing Club. Monthly JOSHUA THEE
outings. Quarterly newsletter. For information, write to
ROWCC, P.O. Box 1110, Running Springs, CA 92382.
PARK PASS
Outdoor Works. Family owned and operated. Equipment
for backpacking, climbing, mountaineering, search &
rescue, law enforcement. Sales and rentals. 28966 Hook
Creek Road, Cedar Glen, CA 92321. Phone 909-336-0864.
 a southern California climbing magazine

mOthEr rOck is
Still Here!

Ten First Time

Big Wall Tips

Interview with
Lynn Hill!

Striking a Nerve

The Winter
X-Games are
Coming to So Cal!

I I The 1984 (?)

California
Bouldering Contest
Access Fund
Alert!

Love on the Rocks

Training: Goals

Classifieds

Brew of the Month

Secret Spot
Solution

Events

Parting Shot

cover photo: Darell Palmer toproping Devil's Crack, J-Tree

 mOthEr rOck
hangdoggin' with the editor
och
It Feels Like Number Two ...
As the second issue of mOthEr rOck hits the streets, I'm
thinking to myself, why am I doing this? The list of
negatives are long. It takes a lot of time to put the issue
together. It takes a fair amount of money to keep a
project like this going. And I wonder if it's all worth it.
But then I get feedback from local climbers urging
me to keep it going. It seems that mOthEr rOck fills a
gaping hole in the local climbing community (see the
letters section in this issue). I've made many new
climbing friends, and have had the opportunity to see a
bunch of great climbing areas. So I'll keep the issues
coming for as long as it makes sense. I only hope that
the same people who like reading this rag also find it in
their hearts to send in ten measly bucks for a
subscription.
The Evolution of mOthEr rOck
One of the things hope to do in the near future is look at
various ways of upgrading the quality of the printed
magazine. The first few issues may each have a slightly
different look and feel as I experiment with higher quality
and/or lower costs.
Another difference you'll notice is content. The first
issue had more short articles. This issue has a couple of
longer articles. What do you think?
Get Involved! It's YOUR Magazine!
A reminder: mOthEr rOck is not a closed magazine for
the stroking of the egos of some "inner circle." It's your
opportunity to get involved in the local climbing
community. So send photos, news of new (preferably
moderate) routes, climbing stories, or even just story
ideas. Please. We can't pay you by the page like the big
mags do, but maybe we'll invite you to a BBQ and
climbfest at mOthEr rOck gym (my garage) next time
you're out in the area.
Yes, We're On-Line; Aren't You?
For those of you who have Internet access and have not
yet checked out mOthEr rOck on-line, do it now! The
first three or four issues will be put up on the Internet in
their entirety. After that, only about a third of the new
articles will be put up, so you'll have to subscribe to get
your whole mOthEr rOck. The WWW address is:
http: //members. aol. c om/mOthErrOck.
page 1
september/october 1996
What About Advertising?
mOthEr rOck will never make anyone rich, but it would
be nice to at least cover the costs and not dip into the
kids college funds. Would quarter-page ads despoil the
essence of what mOthEr rOck is all about? E-mail me or
drop me a note, and let me know. Your opinion counts.
Finding Some Time to Climb
As this issue goes to press, a few buds and I are getting
ready to hit the road for a week in the Eastern Sierras.
Iris Slab, Alpers Canyon, The Buttermilks, Deadman's
Summit, Rick's Rocks, The Tall Boys, The Stumps,
Bachar Boulders, and countless other options... man-o-
man shall we be busy! I'm sure you'll be reading about
our adventures in the next several issues of this rag,
probably in the form of a long feature story or trip
report, and hopefully a mini-guide or two.
The.summer is winding down, and J-Tree season is
again upon us. Get ready for it! Hope you've been
either working out in the gym, or hitting one of the
many wonderful summer sites we have here in So Cal.
See you in Hidden Valley.
MattArtz, Editor
mOthErrOck@ aol. com
in this issue
• Up "The Prow": Ten (Quite Possibly Original) Big
Wall Tips. By Cindy Stigall. Page 2.
• A Brief Cyber-Inlerview with Lynn Hill! By Matt
Artz. Page 4.
• Letters to the Editor: mOthEr rOck Strikes a Nerve
with So Cal climbers. Page 4.
• News: Snow Summit Lands Winter X-Games!
Page 5.
• Classifieds: Just Tryin' to Pay Some of the Bills.
Page 5.
• mOthEr rOck Quote: Ron Kauk. Page 5.
• Relive the 1984 California Boiildering Contest at
Mt. Rubidoux! By Matt Artz. Page 6
• Access Fund Alert! Page 9.
• Love on the Rocks. Page 10.
• Training: Setting Goals and Keeping Track of Your
Climbing Accomplishments. Page 11.
• Preview: In Our Next Issue. Page 11. ;!?
• mOthEr rOck On-Line. Page 11.
• Brew of the Month. Page 12.
• mOthEr rOck Guidebook Available. Page 12.
• Secret Spot Solution. Page 12. ,:i-i,,, :,; _ HI
• Events. Page 12.
• mOthEr rOck Parting Shot. Page 12.
 mOthEr rOck
Up "The Prow. . .
Ten (Quite Possibly Original)
Big Wall Tips
by Cindy Stigall
Just two weeks ago, my partner and I made a three-day
ascent of The Prow on Washington Column (one of the
OTHER big rocks in Yosemite). This was my first big
wall climb. Before going I read Climbing Big Walls by
Doug Scott and Big Walls! by Johns Long and
Middendorf from the "How to Rock Climb" series, and
received in-depth instruction about big wall climbing
skills through diagrams drawn on napkins from all over
by my favorite climber with eighteen big wall ascents
under his swami. I learned the finer points of packing
the haul bag, cleaning pitons, traversing with jumars,
and other vital skills. Each of the aforementioned
sources, however, failed to mention the following words
of wisdom. I share them with you now, fellow climbers,
in hopes you will be saved untold frustration on your
future big wall climbs.
Stigall Collection
At the beginning of The Prow. Note the naive smile.
Ten Big Wall Tips
Tip #l--Use a wall harness. Not far off the deck I
realized that my bod-type harness became a Marquis de
Sade-esque instrument of torture. And only eleven more
page
september/october 1996
pitches to go! Each two-and-a-half foot gain on the rope
required that I hang my weight off the harness attached to
the right jumar, sharply yanking the leg straps forward
and up. I developed blisters in places I was unable to
personally view without being a contortionist (and no,
Jeanne, a blister kit wouldn't have helped at all!). The
first item on my big wall shopping list is a wall harness.
. • :
Photo: Cindy Stigall Collection
Tapir Terrace at the 7th pitch—
"The Biltmore of The Prow".
Tip #2—Resist the urge to leap after falling objects. Just
don't jump, period. No, seriously. It goes something
like this: "I am 600 feet off the deck-don't fall because
when you fall you do like this (visualize); I wonder what
it would feel like to be falling like this; if I just untied
here. ..." I noticed this impulse in myself and my
observation has since been corroborated by other
climbers.
Tip #3—Bone up on your geology. On the first day,
anyway, the feeling of terror is omnipresent. Looking
down gave me the heebie-jeebies. Looking out at the
vast immensity of Half Dome in theory was better than
looking down; the sheer drop of the face, however, only
emphasized the seeming precariousness of my
2
 mOthEr rOck september/october 1996
hanging belays. A sick helpless feeling settled in the pit tipping the portaledge, sleeping head to foot was the
of my stomach and radiated north and south until it configuration of choice. Sweet smelling baby wipes
weighted the whole of my being, body and soul. were NOT, I repeat NOT, sufficiently powerful to
Determining the composition of the granite quickly eradicate extremely pungent odors quite suitable for Iraqi
became an all-consuming passion. How much better it nerve gas testing. My feet, of course, smelled like roses.
would have been to be able to say "I see here doloritic
granite with mostly calciophosphic (or whatever) Tip #8—Camouflage your derriere. Now I don't know if
inclusions, blah, blah. . ." rather than simply "OK, what it is actually possible, but a can of Formby's Granite
pretty, uh, like uh, white, pointy, shiny things with Textured Spray Coating (available at Walmart) may hold
other black, flaky, shiny stuff mixed in." It's bad promise. If you are male, it's only an issue
enough to feel afraid; feeling stupid and afraid was more occasionally. For a woman, however, you will be
insult than I could stand. Fortunately, by the second day, repeatedly conscious of the fact that your bare backside
my frame of reference had changed and the specks on the may be some binocular-equipped Yosemite tourist's most
beach at Mirror Lake, that intellectually I knew were memorable valley sight. And there is certainly nothing
people sunning themselves, were only echoes of some like the knowledge that the nice gentleman you met
half-forgotten apparition. By the third day, I forgot to yesterday soloing the climb a pitch below and to your
look entirely, enjoying thoroughly the rhythm and right will get the best view of your bare derriere as you
occasional problem-solving of taking apart the belay and lower beneath the portaledge with your feet in the
cleaning the pitch. A little research on the geology of stirrups—er, I mean aiders—doing your business. While
granite and the valley may allow you to get to this point. you're at it, you might as well spray the brown paper
bag as well.
Tip #4—Enhance your vocabulary before the trip. And
not the Reader's Digest list, either. Picture this: you are
twisting in the breeze while jugging (jumaring) fixed
ropes. How many times can you repeat, "g. . .mn, sh .t,
"m . . f . . r"? You change the order, but given the
number of times you will turn to expletives to relieve
the tension during the twelve pitch climb and the heinous
descent (don't get me started on that!) it pays to enlarge
your repertoire. A "c.. .r" and "p . . xer" and "dirty
stinkin' tr . . .er" can do wonders at the appropriate time.
Tip #5—Don't use pink webbing for the belay seat. Use
webbing, yes, that's good, but it is impossible to trust
completely in PINK webbing. It's too sissy-la-la.
Hanging out over the deck at about a thousand feet, try
swinging your legs over the great abyss on a nine inch
by eighteen inch plywood swing. To do this, you need a
serious, responsible color—black, red, or blue—neon
yellow, even—but NOT frivolous pink. Just like I
wouldn't feel comfortable with a brain surgeon named
Tiffany, I am a little suspicious of pink webbing.
Enough said.
Tip #6--Don't waste time worrying about the quality of
the food you take with you. It all tastes wonderful.
Sitting on the portaledge, more tired than I ever remotely
considered possible, the cold greasy chili beans straight
out of the can, topped with warm, oily sharp cheddar on a
disintegrating tortilla was at that time comparable to a
four-star restaurant meal. The swigs of warm Coke that
washed it down were a river of velvet gold sliding down
my throat. I have tasted nothing better in all my life,
not before or since.
Tip #7-Bring really STRONG DEODORANT wipes or
something—anything—for your partners feet for the bivy.
j Photo: Cmdy~Sligali Collection
Especially if, like myself and my partner, you decide to Arriving at the belay at the end of the llth pitch.
share a single portaledge (it beats the "my partner has the A short 50' segment takes you to 4th class ledges
comfy portaledge while I'm a human taco in a hammock" leading to the top. At last!
syndrome). In such a situation, in order to keep from

page 3
 mOthEr rOck
Tip #9--Memorize at a few good songs. It sounds good
that you'll listen to the Walkman or read a good book
while belaying, but it just doesn't seem to work out that
way. So what do you do during the endless hours of
minding the rope? Either you think deep thoughts on the
applicability of the early writings of Kierkegaard to
modern existentialism, or you sing songs. Unless you
have interesting songs at the ready, all that's left is
"Three Blind Mice" and "Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star."
How many times can you sing them? I desperately tried
to remember one or two songs from my newest CD, but
couldn't get past the first line on each one, so nursery
rhymes are the soundtrack to my memories of the climb.
Tip #10—A final word of advice—become familiar with
the night sky. My fondest memory of the climb is
laying on the portaledge each evening, gazing up a the
sprinkled sugar stars between the steel-gray silhouettes of
Half Dome and Washington Column. Lights from the
valley blinked inconsequentially below as the evening air
around us was warmed slightly by the shimmering of the
silent stars. I watched Corona Borealis slip past the
mysterious lip of the summit, while the Milky Way
slowly emerged from behind Half Dome. Antares burned
red-orange in Scorpio and eventually Jupiter blazed on the
southern horizon. Bills and other worries were hundreds
of miles away; my daughter, somewhere in a now-alien
world, was happily keeping Grandma and Grandpa awake
as they told each other stories. All was right with the
world. Filled with a deep indescribable joy and oneness
with the universe (I know it sounds trite, but it was real
and unreal all at once), tired beyond conscious awareness,
I breathed more deeply and relaxed more fully and felt
more completely aware than I had ever known before.
Even though I felt totally exhausted, I was reluctant to
fall asleep. At the risk of hyperbole, it was enchanted,
even magical those nights.
My first big wall. Everything I did was a new skill
learned. My biggest fear, however, wasn't that I
wouldn't be able to master the techniques, but that I
wouldn't be able to come to terms with the
apprehension, the solitude, the monotony, the constant
need for vigilance. I needn't have feared. I felt fully
aware and alive and the time passed all too quickly.
While I didn't actually want to stay on the rock any
longer—the thought of a simple shower became a driving
obsession—I wouldn't have traded the experience for
anything. My only concern is how expensive the climb
is becoming-every day I add more, and more, items to
the big wall shopping list for the next climb.
mOthEr rOck kinda-interview
mOthEr rOck editor Matt Artz recently had an
opportunity to cyber-interview Lynn Hill. Lynn was on
hand for ESPN's X Games, and answered a few of Matt's
questions by E-mail courtesy Outside Magazine On-Line
and Starwave Communications.
page
september/october 1996
mOthEr rOck: Lynn, what's your favorite climbing
area in Southern California, and why?
Lynn Hill: I love Joshua Tree, that is one of my
favorite climbing areas in Southern California. Not only
because of the huge variety of climbing there, but I love
the desert. It's a beautiful place; I love the evenings with
all the stars, and the late afternoons with the beautiful
sunsets, and I just like the whole idea of climbing with
my friends and running around in the desert.
mOthEr rOck: Do you have a favorite route in
Southern California?
Lynn Hill: As far as a favorite climb, I can't really
say that there's one in particular. I have memories of
"Figures on a Landscape"-it's a beautiful climb-and
"Bearded Cabbage," and some of the climbs out in the old
Hidden Valley, and there's a lot of bouldering around that
same area, too.
mOthEr rOck: Lynn, what is your take on elitism in
climbing?
Lynn Hill: Elitism, well that's a big topic. My
reaction to that word is I don't like the idea of elitism.
I think people should remain humble and give to other
people and not just expect them to adore the so-called
climbing gods—I do not believe this is a good attitude.
mOthEr rOck: Keep up the good work. You are an
inspiration to all of us weekend climbers. Thanks!
Special thanks to Outside Magazine On-Line and
Starwave Communications for giving our little
newsletter the opportunity to ask Lynn a couple of
questions. Be sure to visit the Outside Magazine On-
Line web site at http:// outside.starwave.com.
letters
Dear mOthEr rOck,
Good job on the mag. It looks great, thanks for sending
me a copy. It's great to see a publication that is focusing
on climbing like most climbers do it, not the 5.13 hard
boys in lycra, or the specious debates about a letter
subgrade or bolt placement. That stuff gets old fast. In
fact, I rarely read the mainstream climbing rags any
more.
Happy climbing and keep in touch.
Todd Vogel
A Taste For Adventure
Bishop, CA
toddvogel @ aol.com
Dear mOthEr rOck,
Just a quick note to say thanks for the copy of your
premier issue. Nice to see some genuine climbing
related journalism, and not more of the now
4
 mOthEr rOck
"mainstream" bullshit being published by the BIG 2.
Hope you can afford to stay grass-roots, and not lose
your ass. Anyway, I'll be sending my subscription order
in, as well as a classified for my resoling service.
Thanks again and best of luck on your new venture.
Geoff Archer
GRANITEC Resoles
Joshua Tree, CA
granitecjt@aol.com
Dear mOthEr rOck,
I think that people seldom get the encouragement they
are worth so:
I just surfed to your web issue of mOthEr rOck. I am
jealous that we don't have anything similar in Sweden.
You are really getting the message over about the fun end
enthusiasm of climbing, which I think most
contemporary magazines have lost. I'll keep you in my
bookmarks to watch the progress, even if I live in
Sweden and will probably not climb in California this
century.
Thank you,
Ulrik Eklund
Kiruna, Sweden
mOthEr rOck responds: Well golly gee, seems like we
may have struck a nerve here with some climbers! That
big sucking sound you've been hearing was the vacuum
caused by the lack of popular climbing journalism. It's
good to know that we at mOthEr rOck are not the only
ones who have been frustrated with the likes of Rock &
Ice and Climbing magazines. Sure, they have made a
few attempts recently at covering moderate stuff. And
yes, after digging through the posing and positioning,
the infighting and the childlike name-calling, some of
their points do have some relevance to the climbing
community. But most of that gibberish is only truly
interesting to a minute fraction of their readership. You
want a rag that's 100% dedicated to popular climbing?
It looks like mOthEr rOck is your only alternative.
It may not be as pretty (yet), but it's way more fun!
news • news • news • news
Snow Summit Lands Winter X-Games!
by Matt Artz
As the second annual Summer X-Games took place in
late June in Newport, Rhode Island, event organizer
ESPN announced that the Snow Summit ski resort in
Big Bear has been selected to host the inaugural version
of the Winter X-Games. Slated for January 30th to
February 2nd, 1997, the Winter X-Games will feature ice
climbing, snowboarding, snow bicycling, shovel racing,
page
september/october 1996
as well as other "non-winter" extreme sports such as
skateboarding and in-line skating.
The invitation-only field of athletes will compete for
more than $200,000 in prize money. The ice climbing
event will be held on an artificial frozen waterfall
constructed specifically for the event. We can expect
many hours of live television coverage as the Winter X-
Games take center stage on ESPN, ESPN 2, and ESPN
International for four days, and potentially several
months worth of reruns.
The rock climbing events at the 1995 Summer X-
Games were less than successful, and criticized heavily in
both climbing and mainstream media. However, the rock
climbing events were completely reorganized for the
1996 Summer X-Games, and the world watched eagerly
this time as 15-year-old Katie Brown took the women's
field by surprise and won the gold. Let's hope the
inaugural ice climbing event does not suffer the same fate
as the inaugural rock climbing event.
mOthEr rOck plans to be on hand to cover the ice
climbing event for our readers. Stay tuned!
classifieds
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call: StoneBone, P.O. Box 3688, Santa Cruz, CA 95063,
catalog@stonebone.com. Phone 800-778-3244.
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mOthEr rOck quote
"John Wayne never wore lycra."
— Ron Kauk
5
 mOthEr rOck september/october 1996

Relive the 1984 California

Bouldering Contest!
by Matt Artz
You still listen to Journey and are proud of it. You buy
your clothes at garage sales, because the stuff the stores
carry now is all crap. And nice headband, dude. You
despise these thousands of new posers, er, climbers, with
the colorful gear, the bolt ladders, the gym calluses, and
the fear of cracks. These Frenchies have nuffin on Long,
Accomazzo, Sorensen, Muir... Why can't things just be
the way they used to be, post-Angel Flights but pre-
Lycra, back when real men climbed at Tahquitz and
Suicide, and trained at Rubidoux?
Hey, bud, sounds like you need to relive your glory
days. Welcome to the 1984 California Bouldering
Contest!
Yep, Rubidoux has been covered extensively in
several recent guides. But legend has it that nothing
beats the old fliers from the early days of Rubidoux
climbing. They're like gold. Just try to find one.
Leave it to Aaron Barnes, manager of Mountain
Sports Unlimited in Loma Linda, to dig up a copy of the
two-page photocopied flier from the 1984 California
Bouldering Contest. Thanks, Aaron. We owe you a
beer; no, more like a sixer. It's in the mail bud. Or
maybe we'll hand deliver it so we can, uh, help you out
with it. That's what friends are for.
So, without any further delay, here it is: the 1984
California Bouldering Contest. A little tidbit of So Cal
climbing history, only 12 years later.

Mt. Rubidoux Overview Map

Map 2

Accomazzo
Boulders

Circle Crack Lower Ma P 1A

Trail Wall of Glass Parking Lot Parking Lot
Bridge
Registration

Problem List Boulder

1. Face. 11 points (?).
2. Face. 9 points (?).
Map la Boulder
3. Face. 8 points (?).
Boulder
4. Face. 10 points (5.7).
5. Crack. 7/ points (5.4).
(5.4)
6. Crosswalk. 15 points (5.11).
7. One Way Street (traverse). 14 points (5.10+).
V^lIV T T «J k?*M l^V.1. ^LA

8. Around the Block. 12 points (5.1 la *, AKA

Franklin Street).
The Island Wall
TR;
9. Silverstone. 17 points (5.11+or 5.1 Id * TK;
lieback, direct start or undercling).
10. Teflon. 13 points (5.11+; possible escape off
left, after crux).
11. In the Picture. 15 points (5.11+ *).
Map la: Island Wall Area 12. Overexposed. 14 points (Bl- *).

page 6
 mOthEr rOck september/october 1996
13. 5.9er. 12 points (5.10+ *; direct finish 5. 10+; 35. The Ex. 17 points (Bl).
escape right 5.10). 36. The Hourglass. 13 points (5.10).
14. Crack. 6 points (5.7 *, AKA Island Crack,
AKA Whoopee Crack).
15. Crack. 4 points (5.4, AKA Flake Variation).
Boulder
Map 2
16. Spencer. 14 points (5. 10+). I 39 38 37
17. Matt. 15 points (Bl). The Bullethead^JJ5 ^ 43 l \—±-+~
18. Dutzi. 9 points (5.9).
Boulder The
19. Face. 8 points (5.9). 46 Accomazzo
20. Face. 10 points (5.8). Boulders
Boulder
21. Circle of Willis. 4 points (5.6). 51 50
22. Linear Fracture. 13 points (5.1 la traverse).
23. Cerebral Spinal Fluid. 14 points (5. 10+).
Boulder
24. Mantle. 10 points (5.9, AKA More Mantles). Boulder #50
25. Mantle. 11 points (5. lOa, AKA Mantle
Place).
26. Mother's Little Helper. 17 points (5.11
TR). 55 56
*** Trail to Road
The Black Block Map 2: The Accomazzo Boulders Area

27 The Accomazzo Boulders

Borson's Wall 37. Isn't This Fun. 16 points (5.lie TR; left of
Step On It offwidth, AKA Over Your Head).
The Falling Boulder 38. Your Typical Geek. 11 points (5.9; offwidth
crack, AKA High Water).
39. Run For It. 15 points (5.10d; right of the
^n offwidth).
40. Street Corner. 11 points (5.10a; left side of
arete).
41. The Bum. 14 points (5.1 la; center of arete).
42. Back Alley. 11 points (5.10a; right side of
arete).
Boulder
43. Schmult's Demise. 18 points (?).
The Bullethead
44. Highbrow. 18 points (Bl or B1+).
45. Bullethead. 20 points (Bl).
Boulder
Maplb: Falling Boulder Area 46. Face. 6 points (?).
47. Face. 14 points (?).
Step On It Boulder 48. Face. 12 points (?).
27. Step On It. 13 points (5.10+ TR). Boulder
The Falling Boulder 49. Continuing Education. 14 points (?).
28. Falling Asleep. 9 points (5.9 TR). Boulder
29. Falling Rock. 12 points (5.10d TR, AKA 50. Face. 7 points (?).
Falling Rocks). 51. Crack. 9 points (?).
30. Falling Away. 10 points (5.10c TR). Boulder #50
31. Falling Off. 14 points (5.10b TR). 52. Arete. 12 points (?).
The Black Block 53. Mantle. 9 points (?).
32. Block Block Left. 14 points (5.10d TR cra< Boulder
AKA Blockhead). 54. Face. 2 points (?).
33. Block Block Right. 16 points (5.lib TR, Boulder
AKA Black Block Face). 55. Face. 13 points (?).
The Ex Boulder 56. Face. 11 points (?).
34. Alimony. 11 points (5.8).

page 7
 mOthEr rOck september/october 1996

Map4a Map 3
Smooth
Superstar Slab
57—

61 62 63 64 65 66
Map 4a: Superstar Slab
Map 3: Smooth Sole Slab/Joe Brown
Superstar Slab
57. Coathanger. 19 points (5.12c friction; lead or Boulder
TR). 76. In My Time of Dimes. 18 points (Bl).
58. Frosty Cone. 14 points (5.10+or 5.1 la TR). Smooth Sole Wall (AKA English Smooth Sole
59. Mono Cone Stand. 13 points (5.10, AKA Slab)
Mono Cone). 77. Jam Crack. 7 points (5.2 or 5.4*, AKA The
60. Superstar. 11 points (5.9 or 5.lOa; bolted lead). Jam Crack).
61. Flabob. 19 points (5.11+). 78. Smooth Soul Center. 14 points (5.10+ or
62. Side of Fries. 15 points (5.lib *, face). 5.1 la * TR, AKA Smooth Sole Direct).
63. Face. 12 points (5.9). 79. Smooth Soul Right. 13 points (5.10+ or
64. Face. 9 points (5.8, AKA The Waterchute). S.lOcTR).
65. Years Ago. 13 points (5.10a). 80. Triple Crack Left. 9 points (5.7 or 5.6, short
66. Face. 10 points (5. lOa). flared crack, AKA The T Crack).
81. Triple Crack Center. 11 points (5.9 or
5.10a *, lieback, AKA The Finger Crack).
Map4b 82. Triple Crack Right. 8 points (5.7; hand
traverse or left-curving lieback, AKA Diagonal
Crack).
83. Skidder. 15 points (5.lid).
Boulder
Pepper 84. Fine. 10 points (?).
85. Do It. 12 points (?).
Tree Boulder
86. Beat It. 6 points (?).
.' 72 73 74 ' Triangle 87. Oh. 9 points (?).
' 75 Boulders 88. Ah. 11 points (?).
Boulder
89. Nice. 8 points (5.3, AKA Sierra Club
Chimney).
7071 90. Mr. Nice Guy. 17 points (5.lie TR).
67 68 69
Joe Brown Boulder
Map 4b: Triangle Boulders 91. Fred Route. 5 points (5.7 TR, AKA Direct
Tissima).
Boulder 92. Waterstreak Corner. 9 points (5.8* TR, AKA
67. Aggravation. 13 points (5.10a). Waterchute; direct finish is 5.9).
68. Over Filled Waterbed. 14 points (5.10d). 93. Powerpack. 14 points (5.1 la to 5.lie * TR,
69. Drunk at the Wedding. 12 points (5.10b). height dependent).
Boulder 94. Face. 6 points (5.7 TR *, many variations; AKA
70. Gully. 2 points (5.6, AKA The Folly Right). Scoop Face).
71. Horizontal Bands. 13 points (5.1 Ob). 95. Face. 6 points (5.6 or 5.7).
Triangle Boulders Half Dome
72. Left Face. 12 points (5.10 *; AKA Triangle 96. MFer. 9 points (5.9 *, left crack; AKA Direct
Face, many variations). Northwest Face).
73. Right Face. 12 points (5.10 TR, AKA 97. SOB. 10 points (5.9 *, right crack; AKA
Isosceles). Tissiack).
74. Walkathon. 8 points (5.7). 98. Face. 5 points (5.2 *, AKA Cable Route).
75. Sleepathon. 12 points (5.10+or 5. lOc, AKA Boulder
Triangulation). 99. Black Knat. 12 points (5.11).
100. Pink Bug. 19 points (B1+).

page 8
 mOthEr rOck september/october 1996
have. In addition, we can use the Problem List to set
goals for ourselves, of trying to reach a certain
103 Map 5 cumulative point total for the day. Try it, it can add a
new element of fun to your regular training workouts.

The Circle Those Were the Days-

inX \8 Crack David Lee Roth back in Van Halen? It was inevitable.
106 107 Boulders Pine Cove Sammy Hagar sucked anyway. 1984 was the year, man.
Market The year of the California Bouldering Contest...

0 Details: Problem numbers, original route names, and

*-^™~—-'
Cheri's 109 110
Face
The Wall 120
of Glass
Map 5: Circle Crack/Wall of Glass
The Circle Crack Boulders
101. Face. 9 points (5.9).
102. DC. 11 points (5.9).
103. Hug Me. 14 points (5.10).
104. Don't Touch Me There. 18 points (5.11+).
105. Soft. 10 points (5.8).
106. Touch Me All Over. 13 points (5.8).
107. You're Hurting Me. 14 points (?).
108. Circle Crack. 18 points (B1-).
Cheri's Face
109. Cheri's Face. 6 points (5.10).
110. Cheri's Arm. 12 points (5.9).
Pine Cove Market
111. Pine Cove Market. 10 points (5.4).
112. Lou. 8 points (5.8 arete).
113. The Warning. 12 points (5.9).
114. Peggy. 6 points (5.7).
The Wall of Glass
115. Roll Up the Window. 14 points (5.lie
mantel).
116. Windex. 11 points (5.9).
117. Surrealistic Pillar. 16 points (5.lib *).
118. Window Pane. 15 points (5.1 Od).
119. Stained Glass. 13 points (5.8, AKA Punch
Bowl Right).
120. Bulletproof. 11 points (5.6, AKA Punch
Bowl Left).
121. Sliding Glass Door. 17 points (5.11-, run
and mantel; AKA Contest Giveaway).
122. Suction Cup. 13 points (5.11 mantel).
123. Plexiglass. 14 points (5.10+).
Use it as a Training Tool
By publishing the original problem list, we hope to
preserve a little piece of So Cal climbing history. But
we're also giving you a useful training tool. Matt
McGunigle and I have been using the problem list lately
on our Tuesday & Thursday morning Rubidoux
workouts. We've been able to locate a dozen or so routes
not listed in any of the other guides to Rubidoux we
point ratings from the 1984 California Bouldering
Contest Problem List have been reproduced here as-is
(e.g., the "Block Block" in routes #32 and #33 is
obviously a typo and should be "Black Block" ...).
Original information is followed in parenthesis by
known ratings, different names for the route, and in some
cases beta. Routes followed by "(?)" could not be located
in any of the current guidebooks referenced below.
Original maps from the Problem List were scanned, and
the type was reset for clarity. For information on getting
to Mt. Rubidoux or better overview maps to help locate
some of the problems on this list, you should already
have a copy of the excellent book Southern California
Bouldering Guide by Craig Fry.
References :1 ,
Problem List: The 1984 California Bouldering
Contest. Photocopied mini-guide, 2 pages. October
27, 1984.
Climber's Guide to Southern California. Paul
Hellweg and Nathan M. Warstler. 1988.
Scouting Report: Mount Rubidoux. In: What's The
Beta, newsletter of the Rim of the World Climbing
Club. October, 1995, Issue No. 3.
Southern California Bouldering Guide. Craig Fry.
Second Edition, 1995.
Access Fund Alert
Randy Vogel recently alerted me to a serious threat to
bolting on public lands. Randy is currently the So Cal
representative of the Access Fund, and shared the
following press release with me. Please read it, and take
it to heart. The future of bolting and climbing on public
lands may rest in your hands.
Action Alert!
FOREST SERVICE INTENDS TO BAN "ALL USE"
OF FIXED ANCHORS IN WILDERNESS
June 14, 1996
The US Forest Service has announced its intent to make
a new regulation that could eliminate or severely limit
climbing at dozens of America's best climbing areas.
The Access Fund believes this regulation would
needlessly reduce climbing opportunities and climber

page 9
 mOthEr rOck
safety. Your immediate action is needed to preserve
climbing in designated wilderness.
(Three years ago we asked you to write to the
National Park Service about this same issue. The
tremendous response to our action campaign — over 800
letters from climbers — produced a favorable result with
that agency. But while the issue remains the same, this
new proposed regulation requires an entirely new and
even more forceful response.)
The Forest Service's advance Notice of Proposed
Rulemaking, released in May, says bolts "may detract
from the wilderness experience and are not compatible
with management of the wilderness resource. The agency
proposes to reduce impacts on the wilderness resource by
prohibiting all use of fixed anchors in the wilderness."
(emphasis added)
Taken literally, this regulation means not only
would new fixed anchor placements be disallowed, but all
existing fixed anchors would have to be removed! This
would be catastrophic, for climbing history and culture as
well as the hundreds (if not thousands) of popular climbs
found in wilderness areas.
The proposed regulation would prohibit fixed
anchors in all national forest wilderness areas. Mt.
Whitney, the Palisades, and Tahquitz Rock in California,
the Sawtooth Mountains in Idaho, Granite Mountain and
Mt. Lemmon in Arizona, the Cirque of the Towers in
Wyoming - all would be affected.
The Access Fund believes there is no basis for such
a regulation, either in the Wilderness Act or in the
condition of our wilderness resources, and that this rule
amounts to an abdication of management responsibility
by the Forest Service. The Wilderness Act grants
discretionary authority to wilderness management
agencies to allow various types of impact in wilderness,
even permanent impacts, if they are required for proper
administration of the wilderness.
Since climbing is one of the archetypal uses of
wilderness, and since climbing often requires some use of
fixed anchors, the Access Fund believes that fixed
anchors should be considered necessary for wilderness
climbing and their use allowed but controlled, so that
wilderness character and values are preserved.
Surveys confirm that a large majority of climbers
support the Access Fund's position. Thanks to
continuing activism by the Access Fund, the three other
wilderness management agencies agree. The National
Park Service and US Fish & Wildlife Service want to
allow fixed anchors, with some restrictions. And Bureau
of Land Management officials have suggested that some
level of fixed anchor use would be acceptable in that
agency's wilderness.
It is now obvious that the Forest Service cannot be
trusted to treat fixed anchors in an objective and rational
manner. Therefore we must take our advocacy to a new
level: climbers must obtain the help of Congress.
The Notice of Proposed Rulemaking is
scheduled for release in September 1996. The Access
Fund urges you to do three simple things,
IMMEDIATELY:
page
september/october 1996
(1) Write or call your senator and congressperson,
and ask them to refuse to authorize funding for the Forest
Service in the 1997 federal budget until the agency adopts
a policy that fixed anchors will be allowed and managed
in national forest wilderness.
(2) Request that Congress write to the Chief of the
Forest Service and demand that he explain why additional
government regulation is needed. Remind your
representatives that in the last thirty years many areas
where fixed anchor use is common have been designated
as wilderness.
(3) Write to Lyle Laverty, Director of Recreation for
the Forest Service, at PO Box 96090, Washington, DC
20090-6090. Tell Laverty that you support the Access
Fund's position -- that fixed anchors are necessary for
climber safety and the protection of wilderness resources -
- and that you oppose any regulation that does not allow
for at least their occasional use in wilderness.
To contact your elected officials in Washington, call
the US Capitol switchboard at 202.224.3121. For local
phone numbers and addresses, consult the "Government"
section of your phone book. Or call our Senior Policy
Analyst, Sam Davidson, at 408-424-4705 for assistance.
Please contact your Congressional representatives
NOW! Time is of the essence. And thank you for your
commitment to helping the Access Fund preserve
America's diverse climbing resources.
love on the rocks. . .
Geoff Wade Proposes to Jann Senior
at North Shore, Big Bear
It was a warm July 4th as Matt Artz, Matt McGunigle,
Jann Senior, Geoff Wade, and about 12 other people
gathered at North Shore for a day of climbing. But
unbeknownst to Jann, there was a special reason why
fellow Brit Geoff wanted her so desperately to follow his
lead on "Hardstart" on Secret Spot Rock.
Geoff was, shall we say, a wee bit nervous.
Shaking so ferociously that we thought he would peel on
the approach, he wisely avoided the 5.10 start and took
the easy way out, making the route "only" a 5.7. With
Matt McGunigle belaying the doomed man and Matt Artz
up on top taking photographs for the inevitable inquiry,
er, album, Geoff paused a long time at the second bolt to
clip a "fake" ring. Jann found it on her second, and
thought it quite odd. When she topped out and saw Geoff
with a dozen roses, a bottle of champagne, and the "real"
ring, she knew immediately that a proposal was
imminent. She knew what she had to do. She looked
down to her belayer and said "lower me."
Of course he didn't. And of course she said yes.
The happy couple are set to wed this month. Hopefully
it will be an early wedding, so we'll still be able to get
in a few routes after the reception.
... and how did you spend YOUR Fourth of July?
10
 mOthEr rOck
training
Setting Goals and Keeping Track of
Your Climbing Accomplishments
by Matt Artz
Turnbuckle. A boulder problem in J-Tree. A hideous
undercling to a sick mantle. For a few months in early
1996, it became my goal-no, my obsession. When I
finally ticked it off, I sat on top for a good ten minutes.
Like the Olympian who won the 100-yard dash, it was
the equivalent of my victory lap.
But as soon as I had wired the problem, I felt empty.
I floundered for about a month, working out in mOthEr
rOck gym a few times a week, but with no focus. I had
climbed my first 5.1 la, but the strength I had gained in
preparation was rapidly slipping away.
It took several weeks to figure out exactly what was
going on. My goal had been to climb Turnbuckle, yet
that ticmark was just a means to an end, which was to
become a better climber. Yet without another goal to
take the place of Turnbuckle, I was in danger of losing
everything I had worked so hard for.
Keeping Track
The best way to set and achieve your goals is to keep
good track of them. Make a list of the types of climbing
you enjoy, practice regularly, want to excel in, etc. Also
include types of climbing you don't particularly like but
that may teach you skills valuable to your primary types
of climbing. Depending on how elaborate you want to
get, you can include such climbing types as crack
climbing, face climbing, bouldering, leading, ice
climbing, multiple pitch climbing, mountaineering,
redpointing, pinkpointing, toproping, soloing, etc.
Then, for each type of climbing, fill in the chart:
Type of Climbing
1. Name, grade, date 1. Name, grade
2. Name, grade, date 2. Name, grade
3. Name, grade, date 3. Name, grade
for example:
Bouldering
Best: Goals:
1. Big Brutha, 5.1 la, 06/23/96 1. Mothra, 5.lie
2. Huevos Grande, 5. lOd, 05/23/96 2. Unknown Growth, 5.1 Ic
3. Nameless Route, 5. lOc, 05/12/95 3. Fester's Playhouse, 5.lib
Leading
Best: Goals:
1. Hardstart, 5.10, 06/22/96 1. Loose Lady, 5.10
2. Barking Fish, 5.8, 06/22/96 2. The Dirt Mantle, 5.9
3. Rock-It Man, 5.7, 03/24/96 3. Lucky Lady, 5.8
Analyzing Your Climbing History
Once you've filled out the charts, sit down with them,
grab a cold one, and ask yourself some hard questions.
• What is my primary goal? Is it to be a better leader?
To be a better boulderer? What kinds of climbs do I need
to work on the achieve this goal?
page
september/october 1996
• What is my biggest weakness? Could this be limiting
my ability to climb at higher levels in the area of my
primary goal(s)?
• Are my goals too high? Should I be taking a slower,
more measured approach to climbing at higher levels?
(For example, "I currently climb solidly at 5. lOa, and I
hope to be able to lead 5.12a within the next six
months.")
• Are my goals too low? Am I mentally forcing myself
to plateau? (For example, "I currently climb solidly at
5.10a, and I hope to be able to climb a few 5.1 Ob's
within the next two years.")
• What types of climbing should I NOT concentrate
further on? For example: My three best solos have all
been only 5.6 R/X's; do I need to do harder solos, or is
this enough? Will continued soloing of harder climbs
teach me the skills I need to achieve my overall climbing
goals? Do I have to solo harder climbs to learn boldness
and confidence, or will leading harder climbs suffice?
• How recently have I climbed my three best? In other
words, What have I done lately?
While the tendency may be to get a little bit negative
with much of this analysis, keep looking at your three
best climbs for any category, and tell yourself you've
done a great job. Feel good about your
accomplishments. It's taken a lot of work to get those
three names on that piece of paper. Be proud.
The Importance of Setting Goals
As climbers, and at a more basic level as humans, we
need to set goals and work to achieve them. However,
we must realize that perfection is always a moving
target. Set your goals too high and you could end up
frustrated or injured. Set them too low and you're selling
yourself short of your ultimate potential. And most
importantly, once you meet your goals, give yourself a
1 in our next issue . ..
Can't promise anything ... but we're working on a
special Eastern Sierra (November/December) issue of
mOthEr rOck: The main story will be mOthEr rOck's
Eastern Sierra Road Trip! Join Matt Artz, Matt
McGunigle, and whoever else shows up for a week of
moderate boulder problems, topropes, and leads at Iris
Slab, Alpers Canyon, The Buttermilks, Deadman's
Summit, Tall Boys, Clark Canyon, or wherever else we
end up. We also plan to include a mini-guide to Iris
Slab, lots of cool pictures, and enough other stuff to gag
your favorite climber. Whatever we end up printing, it
will be pretty cool, and you won't want to miss it! So
get off yer ass and subscribe already.
mOthEr rOck is on-line!!!!
Visit us at http://members.aol.com/mOthErrOck
11
 mOthEr rOck
brew of the month
Rhino Chasers Dark Ale
Mmmmmm...dark beer. The nectar of the gods. The
decaf coffee of the anti-trendy. The carbo drink of the
true athlete. The J-Tree breakfast of champions.
I cannot begin to describe Rhino Chasers Dark Ale
without the tears starting to well up in my bloodshot
eyes. It's got me through many a tough time. It's like
an old friend who was always there for me. Sunshine on
a cloudy day. If it was a song, it would be "You Light
Up My Life," covered by White Zombie. You get the
picture.
Photo: Matt Artz
mOthEr rOck poster child and all-around wonder boy
Darell Palmer, with the J-Tree variation to the Grand
Slam breakfast—and no pesky egg aftertaste!
Rhino Chasers is getting harder to find lately. If
you can't find it in your area, give William & Scott
Company a call at 800-788-HORN. And tell them I said
hello. <sniffle>.
mOthEr rOck guide book
mOthEr rOck Magazine's Turtle Rock Bouldering Guide
by Matt Artz. The most comprehensive guide available
to the mega-classic Real Hidden Valley/Turtle Rock
bouldering area in Joshua Tree National Park. This book
contains information on more than 70 routes, many of
which are not listed by Mari Gingery, Randy Vogel, and
Craig Fry in their excellent guidebooks. Lots of photos
and topos. $8 postpaid. To order, send check/money
order for to mOthEr rOcfc/The AMCC Group, P.O. Box
7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151, and you'll be set.
secret spot solution
Solution to last month's secret spot: No, it
wasn't Onyx Summit, but that was the best guess. It
was Falling Rock Canyon, a side canyon to Icehouse
page
september/october 1996
Canyon in the San Gabriel Mountains. There's lots of
rock in the San Gabriels (the best known site being of
course Mount Williamson), but much of it is rotten.
Scattered amongst the rotten rocks in places like Falling
Rock Canyon are the occasional solid crag. You just
have to do a lot of exploring to find them.
Got an idea for the Secret Spot column for our next
issue? E-mail us at mOthErrOck@aol.com with your
idea, or just mail the photo and a description to mOthEr
rOck, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
events
It sounded like a great idea. A list of local events
happening over the next few months. A nice public
service type deal. Suddenly I was overwhelmed by
literally hundreds and hundreds of event listings, which
would have taken up nine or ten precious pages of
mOthEr rOck. I can't afford that. Not right now. I'll
revisit the idea at some point in the future. For now, I'll
be more than happy to publish info about events in the
form of paid ads in the "classifieds" section.
mOthEr rOck parting shot
"At high altitudes, there's no place for the fantastic,
because reality in itself is more marvelous than anything
man could imagine. Could anyone dream up a gnome or
a giant or a hydra or a catoblepas to rival the terrifying
power of a glacier, the tiniest little glacier?"
-- Rene Daumal, "Mount Analogue", 1952.
Copyright © 1996 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group.
mOthEr rOck is published six times a year (unless interrupted
by a road trip to climb somewhere) by The AMCC Group,
P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA, 92375-1151. E-mail:
mOthErrOck @ aol. com.
Publisher: Editor:
The AMCC Group Matt Artz
Editorial Board:
Matt McGunigle Darell Palmer Bob Goff
Geoff Wade Jannine Senior Ruth Artz
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send a
check or money order for $10 to mOthEr rOck/The AMCC
Group, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
Subscriptions outside of the United States are $20 annually.
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll consider
it. We're a no budget operation, so send a SASE if you need
your materials back.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you have
not yet figured that out, you're an idiot and you should
probably stop climbing now before you hurt yourself and
others. And if you think you can bet your life on anything
you read in mOthEr rOck, think again. We make no claims
to the accuracy of any of the information contained in these
pages, and cannot be held responsible in any way for any of
your actions, acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own,
bro. That's the way it should be. You're a climber after all.
12
 a southern California climbing magazine
November/December 1996 Number 3

The Eastern
Sierra: Climbing-
Paradise?
The Ultimate
Eastern Sierra
Road Trip:
• Buttermilks
¥ I 11k/*: > Deadman's Summit
; - ;,,^ Tall Boys
:, • I .. I I «| • Iris Slab
m !• plS I! • The Stumps
::: I • Big Springs
•.If: mOthEr rOck
Mini-Guide
to Iris Slab
1 Buttermilks
Bachelor Party
Mt. Whitney's
Mountaineer's
Route
Brew of the Month:
Sierra Nevada
Pale Ale

Cover Photo: Matt McGunigle Bouldering at The Buttermilks

 Hangdoggin' with the Editor
mOthEr rOck editor Matt Artz bouldering in J-Tree. Photo: Darell Pali
The Eastern Sierra: Climbing Paradise?
A lot of people are really bagging on Southern California these
days. With smog, fires, earthquakes, riots, the bad economy, and
of course O.J., it's very easy to do. For many, the idyllic dream
of Southern California—swimmin' pools, movie stars—has faded
into the proverbial sunset. In Beverly Hills, yesterday's
champagne is today's urine. Let's all move to Seattle, where we
can live the good life.
Whatever. As a climber, I know one thing for sure: here in
Southern California we have enough climable rock to gag a
hundred Frenchmen. And if that's not enough, one of the greatest
treasures of California, the United States, and dare I say the entire
world is just a few short hours away by car...
I'm of course talking about the Sierra Nevada mountain
range. In honor of my favorite range of rock, I hereby dedicate
this issue of mOthEr rOck entirely to the Eastern Sierra.
Photo: Matt Art/.
Christian Harder toproping at The Tall Boys,
Indiana Summit Natural Area, Eastern Sierra
In Praise of the Eastern Sierra
One of the feature articles in this issue, "Adventures of the
Mediocre," details my first entry-level mountaineering trip to the
Sierra: an ascent of Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route. The
lack of technical difficulty of the route got the story idea turned
down by the other climbing rags. Too bad for them, because the
enthusiasm of a beginning mountaineer really shines through,
mOthEr rOck #3
and would make a pleasant deviation from the typical I-am-ultra-
hard-man-feel-my-agony stories they seem to be feeding us.
This little adventure really meant something to me, and in
small ways changed my life forever. You don't have to be Mark
Twight, and you don't have to solo 3,000 feet of overhanging ice
in yer underwear with three broken legs in order for a climb to
really mean something, to have a profound impact on your life.
That's what mOthEr rOck is all about.
More recently, me and some buds took the mOthEr rOck
mobile (kinda like the Batmobile, except it won't save Gotham
City, and it smells like stinky climbing shoes) up to the Eastern
Sierra for a week of climbing fun. The good, the bad, and the
ugly is captured forever in black and white in a fun story in this
issue titled "The Ultimate Eastern Sierra Road Trip."
The Unaclimber's Manifesto
For some of you, this is your first exposure to mOthEr rOck, so
maybe our third issue is a good place for me to reinforce what we
stand for.
• Anti-eletisim, e.g., "toproping is not a crime."
• Fun and good humor: climb hard, laugh harder.
• Climbing for everyone, regardless of the grade.
• The destruction of industrial society...oh, wait a minute,
that's that other guy, the one in Montana...
In the last six months, mOthEr rOck has matured from a
homegrown newsletter with a very small cult following to, well,
a slightly more professional rag with a slightly larger cult
following. True to our goals, and regardless of severe financial
hardship, we'll continue to provide our small but highly
enthusiastic subscriber base with a fun and informative newsletter
full of great stuff about climbing in Southern California. If
you're in to it, you can help by subscribing; if you've already
subscribed, get a friend to subscribe. Thanks.
Long live the weekend warrior climber! Long live mOthEr rOck\ Artz, Edi
m OthErrOck @ aol.com
Classifieds
(Advertise here for only $10 per issue, with up to six lines of
text. Bro, that's cheap. $5 more gets your logo scanned and
dropped in. Send your words along with your check to mOthEr
rOck, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
Join the Rim of the World Climbing Club. Monthly outings.
Quarterly newsletter. Only $30 annually! For information, write to
ROWCC, P.O. Box 1110, Running Springs, CA 92382.
Mom was right: mOthEr rOck Magazine RULES! Subscribe today.
One year/six issues, only ten bucks. Send check/money order to
mOthEr rOck, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
15-year-old Quotes
"Climb hard, do what works for you, and have fun."
— Katie Brown, 15 years old
"We're living in the 90's. Climbing is different now."
— Chris Sharma, 15 years old
Page 1 November/December 1996
The Ultimate Eastern Sierra Road Trip
by Matt Artz
It was a perfect late summer day in the Eastern Sierra. A little
hot in the sun, but perfect in the shade, with a nice breeze
providing a fresh, cool feeling that reveals man's attempt at air
conditioning for what it truly is: a dismal failure, a poor
representation of perfection.
The pleasant roar of Rock Creek soothes my ears. The sharp
smoothness of the grass in Iris Meadows caresses my toes. The
incense of cedar and sage fills my nostrils. My senses combine
to whisper one word to me over and over: "relax." This is quiet,
peaceful time. Away from the distractions, annoyances, and petty
problems of the so-called civilized world. Relaxing in nature,
overstimulated by the simultaneous complexity and simplicity of
nature, in a state that seems almost timeless, I listen to my
senses and for a moment in time I merely exist.
But one of my senses is rebelling: my sense of sight. For
across the meadow, on the other side of the river, beyond the
pines, the cedars, the quaking aspens, and up the steep sage-
covered slopes, lies a rock. It meshes perfectly with the
surrounding environment, yet this integral component of the
Sierra landscape has assumed a bloated status in my warped mind.
For I am a climber, and try as I may to listen to my brain and
relax, some things are just not possible. And this is one of those
times.
Welcome to Iris Slab
Towering above myself and the meadow and the creek is the face
of Iris Slab, one of the most popular climbing areas in the
Eastern Sierra. It is calling me. Resistance is futile.
Back in the days before development of the Owens River
Gorge turned that destination into the Walmart of Eastside
climbing, Iris Slab was arguably the most popular spot in the
Eastern Sierra. Located in a tranquil setting above Iris Meadows
in stunning Rock Creek Canyon, it's a large, polished slab up to
about 85 to 90 feet high with ten climbing routes on it. Seven
of the ten routes are 5.4 to 5.8, and there is not a single route on
the rock that is not of either good or excellent quality. Combine
these factors with the beautiful setting and the 15 minute
approach, and it's no wonder that this is still one of the single
most popular Sierra rocks east of Yosemite. It's also a very
popular site with local guides teaching beginning climbing
classes.
I must climb it. After all, I wasn't here to relax. I was in
the middle of a climbing safari of the Eastern Sierra. No time to
power lounge in a meadow for three hours. Matt McGunigle and
I were on a mission to climb like crazed lunatics for five days.
We eventually tear ourselves away from the comfort of our
idyllic surroundings, and head up the "trail" to the base of the
slab. Setting a toprope above "Welcome to the Iris Slab," 5.8
***, we find the right side of the slab tests the limits of doubling
a 165-foot rope. Matt cruises the route, hesitating for only a
second at the crux. But then, he's a good slab climber.
Reluctantly, I step up to the rope next. I take my sweet time,
finding two more cruxes than Matt did, but enjoying the climb
quite a bit. It's definitely one of the better climbs on Iris Slab.
Next, using the same toprope, Matt heads up "Sting," 5.8
**. He takes it a little slower this time, but still moves fluidly
mOthEr rOck #3 Page 2
up the rock. Near the top, where the crack disappears, he pauses
for a long time. He eventually places hand and feet tenuously on
near-nothing holds, and gingerly powers his way over the top.
My ascent of "Sting" goes quite differently. When I get to
the spot that stumped him, I pause for an eternity. This cannot
be 5.8!!??? My left foot begins to fall asleep due to a
combination of boredom and still-not-yet-fully-broken-in
Five.Ten Moccasyms. When it's finally time to move that foot,
I move it to a good hold, but my brain refuses to cooperate
because of the lack of data flowing to it from the sleeping foot. I
eventually pull off a sick, insane 5.10a traverse on nothing but
dime edges and 75 feet of air, and finish off using the last 10 or
15 feet of "Welcome to the Iris Slab," which seemed invitingly
familiar the second time around.
Maybe after doing a multitude of 5.10 boulder problems the
day before, I needed a dose of reality. Or maybe it's just the well-
known fact that I suck at slab climbing. Whether it's making me
cringe for mama on a 5.7, or spitting me off a 5.8 with glee, Iris
Slab continuously humbles me. It teaches me that I still have
much to learn in order to climb slabs well.
Photo: Matt McGunigle
Matt Artz lards up The Sunshine Boulder, The Buttermilks
Butter-milking
The day before had been very different, a definite feel-good day in
every way. We awoke at The Buttermilks when the sun was
warm, and decided to concentrate on the area around Grandma and
Grandpa Peabody, the two largest boulders. We warmed up on
the 5.9 on Baby Peabody, then moved over to the short, near-
holdless (and—cringe—sort of slabby!) 5.10a on the boulder
between Baby Peabody and Grandpa Peabody. We cooled down
for a minute by doing one of the 5.8 (easy, but fairly exposed)
routes on the left side of the main face of Sunshine Boulder.
Then we worked the 5.10a/b route on the far right of the same
face-I made it very high, with the last move clearly in reach, but
just couldn't commit to such an off-the-deck problem so early in
the trip. I ended up downclimbing it. Next time, toprope! (Yes,
there is a nice shiny bolt on top right above the problem).
November/December 1996

Moving on, we arrived at what must be my favorite rock at
The Buttermilks-the Green Wall Boulder. After two years of
attempting it and painfully stretching my finger tendons to the
point of snapping, this time I finally had the finger strength to
crank the 5.1 Ob on the left side! With that old monkey off my
back, I followed with an onsight of the S.lOb route just right of
the arete. Then, for the next half hour, I put in 12 to 15 tries on
the 5.10c route left of center. Matt watched and rested through
most of these attempts, pulling it off on his third or fourth try,
while I fell from very high on my last try, my arms totally
pumped from the many repeats. Oh, well, with the beta and fresh
arms, I'll nail it next time on my first try. Something to look
forward to—or obsess about—for the next trip.
Dead Man Climbing
Off to Wilson's Eastside Sporting Goods in Bishop. I needed
tape if I was going to continue to climb for the entire trip.
Besides, I'd been meaning to pick up a copy of John Sherman's
bouldering bible "Stone Crusade," and I knew Wilson's had it in
stock. It made for great reading material for a road trip.
Photo: Matt Artz
Matt McGunigle, S.lOa traverse, Deadman's Summit
Our next destination was Deadman's Summit, the second
world-class bouldering stop we'd make that day. Isn't climbing
in California the greatest? Anyway, Matt and I had attempted a
wonderful 5.1 Ob finger crack at Deadman's two months prior, but
had turned back near the top because it was so off-the-deck with
an uncharacteristic (for Deadman's) very hard landing. We had
vowed to return and toprope it.
Finding the route again was simple, while setting the
toprope proved to be an arduous task. When we eventually got it
set, the climb suddenly took on a ridiculous perspective. It
looked very short, and it turned out to be just that. With the
safety of a toprope, we had each topped out before we could even
take a breath. It was somewhat of an anticlimax, after two
months of obsessing over that crack; but it did feel good to
finally do it. And hats off to Bachar and the other hard boys who
mOthErrOck#3 PageS
must certainly have very large cajones to free solo routes much
harder—and higher—than this one.
Using the same toprope (after an hour of setup and 30
seconds of climbing, I'll be damned if I was going to break that
puppy down just yet!), we moved right to a S.lOa face. I pulled
it off, but was on the verge of coming off this vertical pocketfest
almost the entire way. It seemed infinitely harder than the 5.10b
finger crack we had just cruised! Next, Matt attacked the face,
doing it with only one hang as he got three fingers painfully
stuck in a two-finger pocket. Was that route really S.lOa?
Looking at the topo later, I think we were off route and finished
on the 5.10d face next to it. Or maybe Bachar is so damn good,
he has no clue how to differentiate between S.lOa and 5.10d.
So my afternoon of slab sucking at Iris had been preceded by
a wonderful day of bouldering at two of the premier bouldering
spots in California, if not the entire U.S. I must try to conquer
my slab hang-up. Pondering analytically, my poor slab
performance was probably 10% sloppy footwork and 90% mental
failure. I would work on my slab technique more in the
morning, trying Iris Slab again. Matt had some ridiculous idea
that we would try to toprope a S.lOa and a S.lOc—on a slab! But
all I could think about was warming myself by the fire and
popping a nice beer.
Revenge on the Slab
The next morning, we awoke cold and tired to watch the sunrise
creep down the crest towards Iris Slab. Christian, Bob, and Joice
had joined us in the night for brew and burritos. The five of us
were now eating coffee cake and waiting for the sun to hit us,
giving us a blast of warmth and a hint that climbing may in fact
be possible on what seemed to be such a cold day.
The sun broke, and off we were to the slab—me with quite a
bit of trepidation, with my unnatural fear of slabs haunting my
every step. Under pressure from Matt, we jumped straight on my
worst slabby nightmare—a toprope attempt of "Easy Way Out,"
at S.lOa ** by far the most hideous slab route I had ever
attempted, and about four grades beyond my slab comfort level.
To my tremendous surprise, I cranked it without a single hang,
never even getting out of breath or breaking pace. It actually
seemed fairly easy. Hallelujah! My losing streak on slabs had
been broken!
Feeling unstoppable, we upped the ante by two chips and
moved to a toprope attempt of "Crazy Bald Head," 5. lOc ***. At
the "bald" section the climb is named for, about two-thirds of the
way up the route, I gave it a great try. Smearing and palming
my way up the 20-foot blank section where dime edges were the
jugs, I actually pulled off three consecutive moves on absolutely
nothing before I had to hang. Matt and I both moved right
towards the aptly named "Easy Way Out" to get around the crux,
then finished off straight up—but not before pulling off some
great 5.10b/c face moves. Although we had taken a slight detour,
in general we were elated with our significant improvement in
slab climbing for the day. It was hard to be at all disappointed
with our performance! We finished out the morning with Bob,
Joice, and Christian having a great time toproping a series of
climbs ranging from 5.4 to 5.7.
Next Stop: Big Springs
We quickly packed up our campsite in Iris Meadows to beat the
2 p.m. "check-out time," and were heading south to Big Springs
November/December 1996
campground...but not before a brief stop in Mammoth for
essentials (hot dogs, chili, ice, beer, and Carl's Junior).
Big Springs has got to be among the best campsites in the
Mammoth area, especially for climbers—it's free, in a beautiful
forested setting along the headwaters of the Owens River, and
within quick striking distance of Clark Canyon, Alpers Canyon,
The Stumps, Tall Boys, Rick's Rocks, and many other climbing
destinations including Deadman's Summit. After reclaiming our
primo campsite at Big Springs that we had "reserved" a few days
prior by leaving an ugly blue tarp and a few empty water jugs,
we were off on the dirt roads heading north towards Tall Boys.
The Tall Boys
Five miles on mostly excellent quality dirt roads lead us to the
"Indiana Summit Natural Area" sign where the guidebook directed
us to park for the short hike to Tall Boys. A few hundred yards
down the trail, we noticed a rocky outcrop on our left. We
followed this, and shortly the rock got to be about 15 feet tall and
overhanging. I saw some chalk on a few holds. This must be it!
Tall Boys is the lesser known, less evil twin of Deadman's
Summit. Same type of rock, same letterbox slots. What Tall
Boys has over Deadman's is a much more pleasant, forested
setting; an almost complete lack of foot traffic; more usable slots
per square foot on the rock; and numerous climbs that are less
severe. At Deadman's, however, the rock is more highly
polished, and more exposed to the sun, with an almost complete
lack of the lichen that forms a vertical carpet of black velvet on
many of the problems at Tall Boys.
Photo: Malt Artz
Matt McGunigle cranks a steep problem at The Tall Boys
We worked the excellent 15-foot tall overhanging boulder
several times, doing a nasty face full of dynos, then an odd but
somewhat easier arete where I had to throw my left foot around
the edge in sort of a side-pull heelhook for balance. We then
continued south along the outcrop, doing a series of increasingly
higher and higher (and mostly easier) slab and vertical problems.
We then rounded a corner and came face to face with the
beginning of the high problems the place was named for.
Countless 30 to 40 foot classic pockmarked faces and aretes,
most vertical and some slightly overhanging, stretch through the
mOthEr rOck #3 Page 4
forest for a few hundred yards. Scoping out the top for possible
anchor sites, I was elated to find three coldshuts placed right
above the long face we had decided to toprope! But my joy lasted
only a short while as a group of bees mistook my out-of-place
purple shorts and multicolored shirt for pollen central, and I
limped away in pain, having been stung for the first time in my
life almost simultaneously by three bastard bees.
Still wincing in discomfort from the stings, we roped up for
a stunning vertical to slightly overhanging pocketfest about 35
feet high. It was a moderate classic, but so were dozens of other
problems at Tall Boys. We did some more shorter problems,
finished off with some severe bouldering, then headed back to our
campsite at Big Springs for chili dogs and ice cold beverages.
The Stumps
Sunday morning we awoke to ice on our pots and pans. Slowly
sipping hot beverages, we stood around the revived campfire and
debated where to climb for the day. Our planned destination,
Clark Canyon, was scrapped as we decided we wanted a site both
a little closer to the campsite and less crowded. We settled on the
obvious compromise, a place called The Stumps.
The Stumps is located about three miles on dirt roads from
Big Springs campground. Forming the walls of a tremendous
natural amphitheater, The Stumps consists of three main crags of
mostly trad crack climbing with a few scattered bolt ladders. We
chose the first crag on the left, which offered us five routes
ranging from 5.9 to 5.10b. The approach was hideous, up steep,
loose, pumicy slopes. But the magnificent setting more than
made up for the painful approach.
Did I say earlier that Tall Boys was the twin sibling of
Deadman's Summit? Let me clarify: The Stumps is the twin of
Deadman's, and Tall Boys is merely a cousin. The Stumps
features the same polished volcanic faces as Deadman's, with a
similar concentration of letterbox holds and near lack of lichen.
But where Deadman's routes may reach only up to 30 to 35 feet
tall, routes of similar quality but 60 to 80 feet tall are not
uncommon at The Stumps.
Matt set two bomber topropes that gave us access to all five
routes. We dove straight in, attempting "Free Burning" 5.10b *
(TR) as our "warm up." It's a wickedly steep, unrelenting face
chock full of a mixture of the trademarked sharp and sloping
letterbox holds. Matt made impressive progress on two attempts,
the consitent severity of the route spitting him off about two
thirds of the way up. I got about a third of the way up before
mental failure: preparing to dyno for a slot high above my head,
I spotted what appeared to be bright red lichen on the top of the
hold. It turned out to be Matt's blood, fresh and dripping from a
sharp fang on the top of the slot. The vampire hold would not
claim me as it's second victim of the day. That was enough for
me to say bye-bye to "Free Burning."
We spent the rest of the morning toproping routes such as
"Orange Zigzag," 5.9 **, a very nice hand/fist crack, and "Roll
'em Easy," 5.9 *, another crack which was among the easier
routes we tried because it was one of the rare Stumps routes
offering some nice resting spots on the way up. Most routes at
The Stumps are continuous pumpers.
Thrice Bitten, Twice Shy
I wanted in a bad way to crank "Knucklenutz," 5.10a **, a
beautiful 50 foot finger crack, but reconsidered when I saw the
November/December 1996
beehive inside the crack towards the bottom. Still swollen from
my misadventures in bee-land at Tall Boys, and not willing to
risk further disfigurement (not to mention pain) in the name of a
fine line, I decided to leave it for another day. We must come
back next summer: to tick "Free Burning" after working more
endurance on long, pumpy routes; and to tick "Knucklenutz,"
assuming the bees and/or my fears of their kind are gone.
Back at camp in Big Springs for some rest and relaxation, it
wasn't long before Matt, Christian, and I had grabbed shoes and
chalk bags and gone for a "stroll." Downstream from the
campground, the south side sported some big rocks, but the north
side was tempting us with some smaller rocks that might hold
some potential for good bouldering. Within an hour or two, we
had created five or six pumpy jugfests, repeating most of them
several times. A deer and two fawns watched from about a
hundred feet away, wondering why these strange creatures were
heaving themselves up rock faces and making strange grunting
noises. Finished, we hobbled back to camp totally worked and
ready to scarf. There's no rest for the wicked on a road trip.
Matt and Christian borrowed my car keys and headed down to
Mammoth to replenish our dwindling supply of beverages. Bob
and Joice rounded up all remaining scraps and morsels of food,
assembling the most incredible stew ever concocted. I tended the
fire, enjoying my last evening of this Sierra road trip.
As the stew disappeared and the brew wore thin, the air
turned cold and we huddled closer to the fire for warmth as we
swapped stories. The subject matter wavered violently, from
friends and coworkers, to routes tried and sometimes completed,
to wild events factual or fictitious. Matt, a former hang gliding
instructor, told us of the annual parties thrown by hang glider
pilots where they would throw a hang glider into the fire as a
sacrafice to appease the hang gliding gods.
Looking back, it had been a wonderful trip. I had found
some new places to climb, learned some new tricks, spent some
time with new friends. The climbing gods had smiled kindly on
us. Returning the favor, I threw my trusty old locking caribiner
into the fire. We all watched intently as it began to glow, then
quickly twisted and contorted, dripping molten metal down into
the fire. And as quickly as it had started, it was all over. Too
quickly.
Buttermilks Bachelor Party?!?!
Kidnapped by Ruthless Climbers, Geoff
Wade Spends His Last Weekend of Freedom
at One with Brew and Stone
by Matt Artz
As reported in our last issue, mOthEr rOck groupies Geoff Wade
and Jannine Senior were recently engaged. What better way to
send off the happy groom than a mOthEr rOck bachelor party?
No strippers here. Matt Artz, Matt McGunigle, Christian
Harder, and unknowing victim Geoff loaded up the car on Friday
afternoon, October 11, and headed around the coiner to the
Five.Ten warehouse in Redlands to "buy some shoes." On the
way back to work, we "took a wrong turn" and ended up at the
Buttermilks. By 7 p.m., Geoff s head was still spinning, but he
was starting to come around, and we had a real nice dinner at a
fine Italian establishment in Bishop (Samuel Adams on tap!).
mOthEr rOck #3
After resisting attempts to be "recruited" by some German
tourists of thankfully still unknown sexual persuasion, we bailed
for the Buttermilks, arriving at the parking lot before 10 p.m.
We were all pretty tired, so after a couple more beers and some
stargazing, we passed out fairly early.
Saturday morning we were on the rocks by about 7:30 a.m.
First, Ranger Rock, where Geoff and I did the 5.9, then Christian
did it—his first 5.9!!! We all worked the 5.10d for way too long,
Matt getting a nice big bloody rip on his left thumb from it.
Off to Iron Man Traverse, 5.lid, where Matt got almost
halfway, and I came up a little shorter than that. What a
wonderful climb—even if it was completely beyond us! Looking
for something easier, I tried the thin overhanging finger crack at
the left end of Iron Man. I pulled it off first try, but it was very
hard in the crack and I nearly came off. Geoff completed it as
well. Matt got on it a few times, but bailed because his arms
were pumped from getting so far on the traverse. (When I got
home Saturday night, I looked up this climb in the guidebook,
and stared in disbelief at the 5.1 Ic rating! Somebody pinch me.
The guidebook must be wrong on this one...maybe a 5.10c???)
Then over to The Buttocks (lovely name), to fire off the
5.10c plates route we admire so dearly. Matt and I repeated it
with ease (it seems much easier than the 5.10c rating, but we'll
take it), Geoff got it on his second try (he was a little off route
on his first try), and Christian put in a great effort for someone
who has been climbing maybe 5 or 6 times in his life and just
did his first 5.9 that morning. I tried the 5.10c "buttocks crack"
but it was too dirty for me, little crumblies coming off the rock
and embedding in my skin, so we moved on.
Next stop, the Green Wall Boulder, my favorite. I think we
all did the 5.9 crack on the right side. Me and Matt (or was it
Geoff?) did the 5.1 Ob face to the left of the crack, which involves
a dyno up to the first hold that's hard to stick. Once you get the
dyno (first move), the rest is cake, relatively speaking. Next, we
worked the 5. lOc just right of the left arete. I had failed on it the
previous month (see story "The Ultimate Eastern Sierra Road
Trip," in this issue), and this time got it second try! I even did
this throw for a hold up at the top where I had fallen on the last
trip; this time, I missed the hold, but didn't fall, was able to
recover then snagged it! Lastly, I tried the 5.10b arete which I've
done before, but by this time my fingers were buttermilk toast.
We walked around, tried a "5.8" that's more like a 5.10a or b,
did the big juggy 5.4 face, and by then it was over. We all put
our "street shoes" back on, but I convinced people to try the short
but physical 5.9 on the Baby Peabody boulder...you grab a
couple of jugs, take your feet off the ground and get them as high
as possible, then throw a hand way up high to a rounded mantel.
I did it 4 or 5 times with my Five.Tennies on, and we all had a
lot of fun on it.
Lastly, Geoff worked the short 5.10a slab between Grandpa
Peabody and Baby Peabody, getting it after about 4 or 5 minutes,
and we were off to Bishop for a nice greasy lunch at an authentic
diner on Main Street. We stopped at Little Lake on the way back
to check out the boulders there (looks like some fun stuff, but
not worth a separate trip), and of course the Burger King in
Pearsonville was the usual mandatory stop.
We were back in the parking lot at work by 6:30 p.m. Saturday
night. All agreed that it was a great way to do a bachelor party.
Good friends, good rock, good times. Good luck, Geoff and Jann!
Page 5 November/December 1996

mOthEr rOck Mini-Guide
Iris Slab, Rock Creek Canyon,
Eastern Sierra
by Matt Artz
As mentioned elsewhere in this issue, Iris Slab used to be the
most crowded climbing site in the Eastern Sierra. With the recent
development of the Owens River Gorge and other sites, the
crowds at Iris Slab can seem trivial in comparison, although the
site is still extremely popular with beginning and intermediate
climbers as well as local guides teaching climbing classes.
2^ '
Matt Artz high on "Easy Way Out," S.lOa R **, Iris Slab.
Iris Slab consists of ten high quality slab routes 80+ feet
long, and four pairs of shiney new bolts on top provide toprope
protection for nine of the ten climbs. All routes were first done
in the 1970s, with the exception of "You Saw It, But We
Climbed It," which was first climbed in 1994.
Getting There
Drive north on 395 out of Bishop, exiting at Tom's Place. Drive
4 miles up Rock Creek Canyon, and park outside Iris Meadows
Campground. Do not park in the campground unless you intend
to stay the night and pay the fee! Walk down the dirt road
through the campground and meadow, cross the river, and try to
find the trail up the slope to the slab. There are one or two trails
that are better than the countless other meandering paths. Try to
mOthEr rOck #3 Page 6
stick to the most well-traveled routes, and avoid further erosion of
the fragile yet heavily used slope. It's a five to ten minute
scramble up the hill to the obvious slab.
Routes
10
Jah Irie, 5.7 **. Crack, lead with pro to 3 inches. No
anchors on top, but can be toproped with natural pro.
Beginner's Crack, 5.4 R ***. Crack, lead with pro
to 3 inches. Can be toproped using bolts "A".
Two-Step, 5.6 **. Crack/seam, lead with pro to 3
inches. Can be toproped using bolts "A".
4. Crazy Bald Head, S.lOc R ***. Face, lead with thin
pro. Can be toproped using bolts "A".
Easy Way Out, S.lOa R **. Face, lead with thin pro.
Can be toproped using bolts "A"" or "B".
Walking on a Thin Line, 5.7 **. Crack, lead with
pro to 2 inches. Can be toproped using "B".
Welcome to the Iris Slab, 5.8 ***. Crack, lead with
pro to 2 inches. Can be toproped using bolts "C" or "D" (use
"D" for shorter ropes).
Sting, 5.8 **. Crack, lead with pro to 2 inches. Can be
toproped using bolts "C" or "D" (use "D" for shorter ropes).
9. Groovin', 5.8 R **. Crack, lead with thin pro. Can be
toproped using bolts "C" or "D" (use "D" for shorter ropes).
10 You Saw It, But We Climbed It, S.lOc ** TR.
Face and thin crack. Toprope route. Use bolts "C".
References
• Mammoth Area Rock Climbs, by Marty Lewis and John
Moynier. July 1996.
• Rock & Ice Guide to Rock Creek Canyon, by Scott Ayers.
Rock & Ice #59, January/February 1994, pages 63-68.
• Rock Climbs of the Sierra East Side, by Alan Bartlett and
Errett Allen. 1988. Out of print.
mOthEr rOck Quote
"Shamefully, I understand the only blasphemy—to willingly
jeapordize my life, which I have done, and it sickens me."
— John Long, "The Only Blasphemy"
November/December 1996
 Adventures of the Mediocre
A Guided Ascent of Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route
by Matt Artz
"The heroes I admired in my youth seemed to posses abilities and
virtues beyond the grasp of ordinary men. My desire to emulate
them was very great but never succeeded n approaching their high
standards.
"I discovered that even the mediocre can have adventures and even
the fearful can
achieve."
—Edmund Hillary, Nothing Venture, Nothing Win, 1975
Ed Hillary was my hero, and as can only be expected my attempts
to emulate him fell far short of the high standards he set. My
own visions of adventure started before I can remember, but in
the late 1970's began to focus on something that seemed
achievable, even if slightly mediocre. Like Hillary, I wanted to
climb a mountain. Unlike Hillary, my mountain was not
necessarily Mt. Everest.
My cousin Jeff had given me a copy of a booklet called
Climbing Mount Whitney by Wheelock and Condon. For several
years, together Jeff and I plotted our strategy for hiking the 11
mile trail to Whitney's summit. At 14,494 feet, the highest point
in the continental United States, it was the crown jewel of the
royal Sierra Nevada range, and a milestone in the life of many
with interests in hiking or mountaineering. And with some 6,200
feet of elevation gain from the trailhead to the summit, this was
no stroll in the park. It would be our adventure. Our mediocre
Everest.
Over the next ten years, the dream slowly faded. Little things
like college, career, and family seemed to put even more distance
between Mt. Whitney and me. The final series of nails in the Mt.
Whitney coffin were revelations of the severe overcrowding on
the peak. A lottery system for permits to hike to the summit.
Tales of 200 people intimately sharing the summit on a holiday
weekend. A toilet on the summit. A true unwilderness
experience. So I moved on to somewhat wilder, less traveled, and
—yes—lower peaks.
Yet dreams of Mt. Whitney—the tall one—continued to
gnaw at my spirit. More than a dozen years after our initial dream
euphoria, I decided to revisit the possibility of ascending this
mountain. With some four years of technical rock climbing
experience, surely there must be another way to the summit. If I
could not avoid the crowds at the destination, at least I could
avoid the freeway leading there by taking a back road.
mOthEr rOck #3 Page?
The Welcome Alternative
It turns out that the freeway, uh, trail is not the only way to the
top. A number of technical rock climbing routes lead up the East
Face, by far the two most popular being the classic East Face
Route (first climbed by Sierra mountaineering legends Norman
Clyde, Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, and Robert Underbill in
1931), and the more aesthetic East Buttress Route. Yet my most
exciting discovery was something called the Mountaineer's
Route.
On October 21, 1873, John Muir, father of the Sierras,
summitted Mt. Whitney by a new route. Up until this time, the
mountain had only been climbed by less technical routes, for the
most part roughly following the route of today's popular hiking
trail. But Muir ascended the mountain by way of the couloir
between Whitney's East Buttress and North Face. The
Mountaineer's Route. The first "technical" route up Mt. Whitney.
My adventure had been identified.
Questioning my own mountaineering skills, and bowing to
concerns from my family as to the safety of such an undertaking,
I wondered if this route was something that I should even
consider. A climb such as this must be worth the risk. At the
same time, risk should be minimized to an acceptable level. How
could I reduce the risk yet still have my adventure?
The Guide Factor
Mountain guides, immensely popular in areas such as the Alps,
are somewhat a rarity in many parts of the United States. I was
not too crazy about using guides, especially on something as
"tame" as Mt. Whitney, until I read a paragraph in the book
Ascent by Jeremy Bernstein, where he describes the death of his
friend Georges. "I looked forward to seeing (Georges again)," says
Bernstein, "but before we could meet he was killed. His death
made a deep impression on me. Apart from anything else, it
convinced me once again of the extreme dangers involved in
climbing, even forclimbers as skilled and experienced as Georges
was. I decided that I myself would never climb anything really
difficult without a guide." While a guide obviously cannot
guarantee a climb completely without risk, surely tapping the
vast experience of a guide increases your odds of having a safe
trip. Bernstein convinced me that a guide was a reasonable
precaution for those of us craving mountaineering but not yet
ready to pay for it with our lives.
November/December 1996
 The guide we chose, Todd Vogel, was a veteran of Sierra
Nevada climbs. He had been to the summit of Mt. Whitney some
seventeen times, by way of the Mountaineer's Route, the East
Face Route, the East Buttress Route, and other routes. A man
after my own heart, he had never been to the top of Whitney by
way of the main hiking trail. And with him, we managed to feel
much safer.
Human Pack Mules
In the parking lot at Whitney Portal, we made the final
preparations for our three days on Mount Whitney. Jeff could not
make this trip, but my old friend Steve Harris had stepped in to
join me. My pack had seemed surprisingly light, and it had been;
only 30 pounds with empty water bottles and lacking the few
minor pieces of group equipment to be supplied by our guide.
Now at the trailhead, with my three quarts of water, group food, a
stove, a rope, a climbing harness, and other miscellaneous
supplies, a terrible thing had happened—my moderate pack had
grown into a 60+ pound monster. Steve's pack was no better. It
was going to be a long, long way to the top...
Steve (left) and Todd on the Ebersbacher Ledges.
As it turns out, it was a long way just to the trailhead. We
had parked in the "overflow parking" section at Whitney Portal,
which meant a 5 minute hike up the main road to get to the
trailhead. That short hike was a spirit-buster, and it was only the
beginning. Only two or three minutes into the hike, I could think
of only one thing: I was dead meat. Arriving at the "official"
trailhead at exactly 11 a.m. Wednesday morning, we immediately
started up the trail. It was wide, and gently graded for the most
part. And I felt like I was dying. My back was already aching
from the weight of my pack. How on earth could I make it?
After a short time on the trail, things got better as I found
my rhythm. Soon we had arrived at a fork in the trail. To the left,
the main hiking trail continued for 11 more miles to the summit.
To the right, the Mountaineer's Route-to the same summit, with
the same elevation gain, but covering less than half the mileage.
It doesn't take a calculator to figure out the one word that best
describes this route: steep.
Into the Void
Veering to the right, a dramatic change occurred almost instantly.
Gone was the wide and gently graded trail. U.S. Forest Service
trail engineers had spent a lot of time and thought on the design
of the main trail. Mountaineers had designed our route by
trudging upward with barely a glance at their feet. We were headed
where mountaineers go to pray. Eyes were on the lofty goal, the
rocky point piercing the heavens, not the optimal foot placement.
mOthEr rOck #3 PageS
People didn't hike up this way to sightsee. If you were on this
trail, you were climbing Mt. Whitney. The hard way.
Our legs functioning like huge hydraulic pistons, we
propelled ourselves and our packs of lead upwards towards the
Ebersbacher Ledges, the first semi-difficult section of the trip.
Heading up Lone Pine Canyon we followed rough trails up both
sides of the canyon until we arrive at a steep section of the
canyon that looks impossible. While not actually impossible,
there is a relatively easier way around this obstacle. We crossed to
the north side of the creek and climbed the north wall of the
canyon. Here a series of huge, near-vertical ledges act as
switchbacks. These were the Ebersbacher Ledges I had been
reading about. The exposure is invigorating, and only one spot—
a couple of dicey moves while transitioning from one ledge up to
a higher one—seemed really dangerous. "If we need to, we can
take off our packs here and pass them up," said Todd. But we
managed to surmount this testpiece with our packs still riveted to
our backs. After some more very breathtaking exposure, the
ledges eventually dumped us out back in Lone Pine Canyon,
above the obstacles.
Crack that Whip
Todd was pushing us at a terrific pace. With our late start on the
trail, this pace was necessary. "It would be really nice to get to
our high camp tonight," he kept saying. "It would make our
summit attempt tomorrow so much easier." I was all for the
easier. I was determined to push through to the high camp that
afternoon, or evening if it came to that.
I had read several descriptions of the first day on the route,
and one word had stuck out: demoralizing. By the time we reached
Lower Boy Scout Lake at about 1:30 in the afternoon, I could
have fallen asleep for quite some time. I was sore, tired, and most
of all mentally exhausted. Instead of sleeping, we ate, and ate, and
ate. Then, just when we were getting comfortable, Todd reminded
us that two-thirds of our journey for the day was still ahead of us.
So off we went, headed for Upper Boy Scout Lake.
We quickly fell back into pace, with Todd leading, me
second, and Steve in the rear. Todd's pace was amazing. My
personal pace would have been much faster, but in the long run
would have been slower because of my frequent rest stops. I was
the sprinter, the fool doing the 50-yard dash, while Todd was the
veteran of the mountain marathon. "The single most important
thing you need to do when hiking is to find the right pace for
yourself," Todd said. And as a guide, he was doing his best to
find the right pace for us. It was incredible. I was right behind
him the whole time, hiking at about 99% capacity, but I could
follow him without resting for up to 30 minutes.
Slab City
Above Lower Boy Scout Lake we followed the south side of
Lone Pine Canyon, up several hundred feet over some scree to
pass another waterfall, and emerged on top to cross the creek.
Suddenly we were on huge, low-angled granite slabs that extended
for at least half a mile up the now very wide canyon. The canyon
walls to each side of us consisted of beautiful gray granite cliffs,
with a number of lazy waterfalls trickling down their faces
leaving dark stains that looked like running mascara. The slabs in
the canyon bottom were covered with the multiple threads of
Lone Pine Creek, making for interesting mixed hiking and
scrambling. We hiked past the last few trees, up a steep rocky
November/December 1996
pitch, and emerged at an amazing natural amphitheater framing
Upper Boy Scout Lake.
We spent about an hour at the lake, snacking and soaking
our tired feet in the near-freezing water. Todd pulled out a
container of half-and-half and placed it in the cold water to chill.
We watched trout jump after insects in the alpine lake. We
admired the vertical rock face to the west, completely blocking
our view of the East Face of Mount Whitney that we knew was
so close. A charter member of the Polar Bear Club, Todd took a
brief swim in the frigid lake. And just as we were all getting
really relaxed, it was time to go again.
Finally...Camp
The next 45 minutes or so consisted of a steep trudge up the
southeastern wall of the lake, which put us at a plateau within
striking distance of the summit. It was 5:30 p.m. Six and a half
hours and 3,700 vertical feet after starting on the trail, we
established base camp in a sandy, grassy meadow at an elevation
of 12,000 feet, between Upper Boy Scout Lake and Iceberg Lake.
The view of Mt. Whitney and the Sierra crest from this place
could only be described as awe inspiring. From here, the great
rock face of Mt. Whitney, standing just slightly higher than the
adjacent spires of Keeler and Day Needles, simply took one's
breath away. This was what we had come for. This was what
mountaineering was all about.
An Alpine Desert
Practically the only vegetation in this alpine desert was a few
short, scraggly clumps of grass growing in peculiar rings. The
rings were familiar; I had seen similar rings, but on a much larger
scale, while doing research on Creosote bushes in the Mojave
desert. Creosote rings could reach a dozen or more yards in
diameter, representing 10,000 or more years of plant cloning. But
the rings of grass clones in this Sierra alpine desert measured
only a few inches across. I had imagined the Mojave to be one of
the most inhospitable places on Earth, but the 6 foot tall
Creosote bushes made the Mojave look like a rain forest when
compared to the alpine desert of the Eastern Sierra.
Once camp was set up, Todd discovered he had made a
terrible mistake: the half-and-half he had left in Upper Boy Scout
Lake to chill was, well, still in the lake. Without a moment of
hesitation, he decided to go back down for it. Donning sandals, he
started running back down the slope that had almost killed us on
the way up, shouting "time me" as he launched down the hill.
Before too long, he was back, with the half-and-half in hand, still
dripping a little from the extended chill in the lake. I checked the
watch. His time: 22 minutes. "You've got to take a couple of
minutes off that," Todd said. It seems that on his way back up he
had stopped to chat with a couple of mountaineers. Oh, yes, and
he had also taken the time for another quick dip in the lake. O.K.,
so we'll call it 20 minutes. Cardiovascular bastard.
Early Risers
After a relatively sleepless night at base camp, we awoke the
second morning in the dark at 4 a.m. Some oatmeal, some water
(two quarts!), and a hit or two of Expresso and the now-famous
half-and-half, and we left camp by 5 a.m. Our headlamps traced a
dim aura along the rough trail up from the campsite to Iceberg
Lake. We passed another climbing party in the twilight, an eerie
encounter between strangers who were by definition close friends.
No words were necessary. We were kindred souls, of like mind
and with similar goals. We were all obsessed with this mountain,
mOihErrOckm Page 9
and with any luck we would all be on top in a short while.
We reached Iceberg Lake at an elevation of 12,500 feet
shortly before 6 a.m. I drank another quart of water while
watching the most magnificent sunrise on the Whitney massif. It
was a tremendous sight as the sun peaked above the White
Mountains on the opposite side of the Owens Valley, and
illuminated the Sierra Crest in a rapidly changing palette of pinks
and oranges. As the light show faded, we filled our packs with
two more quarts of water from Iceberg Lake, donned our helmets,
and hit the road. From this point on, the intensity would only
keep increasing.
__
Steve (left) and Todd looking down the Mountaineer's Route.
The Mountaineer's Route contains a large tongue of frozen
snow, so we scrambled up the rocky slope to the left. This direct
approach saved a little time and avoided the obvious hazards of
dealing with the ice. Within 30 or 40 minutes, we joined the
couloir above this icy patch. Now in the Mountaineer's Route
proper, we were doing much more climbing than hiking. The
route was steep, rugged, and rocky, with talus, scree, loose
gravel, and sand covering steeply angled slabs. Why, in a few
parts, there was even a little bit of a trail...
One Piece at a Time
Our immediate goal was "The Notch," a prominent feature at
approximately the 14,000 foot level that marked the end of the
couloir and gave us our first views of the other side of the
Sierras-and also of the North Face of Mt. Whitney, our last
obstacle before the summit.
In most years, even in July and August, several large icy
snow tongues plummet down the North Face and force a
somewhat difficult passage for the mountaineer. The previous
winter having been especially dry in the Sierras, we were lucky to
find very little ice in our path— so little that our guide determined
it was not necessary for us to put on our climbing harnesses and
traverse the obstacles as a roped team. We simply dropped down
about 50 feet on the other side of The Notch and started
traversing. After a few hundred yards and only two or three
precarious foot placements, we turned upward towards the summit
plateau. All that stood in our way was a few hundred feet of
moderate (Class 3) rock climbing. It was at times such as this
that having a guide really paid off — in the jumble of thousands of
ways to scramble up the mountain, Todd was able to quickly
point us to the best route.
Once off the Class 3 rock and out on the summit plateau, we
cached some of our gear and walked up the relatively gentle slope
for a hundred yards or so. To our amazement, we summited at
9:25 a.m. — less than four and a half hours after leaving camp.
November/December 1996

We had gained 6,200 feet in elevation in less than 24 hours. I had
broken my personal altitude record by 3,200 feet. And I felt great!
Power Lounging
To our delight, there was only one other person on the summit-a
rugged giant of a man from Colorado who had made the ascent by
the popular hiking trail, from car to summit in only five hours!
His whole purpose for climbing the peak seemed to be to find a
captive audience to air his complaints ("the trail was so boring,"
and "too many switchbacks!"). His displeasure with his ascent
could not dampen my pleasure. I had gained my summit, and
there were no crowds. The Mountaineer's Route had lived up to
its promise.
The view from the summit and the plateau was so
spectacular that it was numbing. An amazing side view of Keeler
Needle...Mt. Russell and the gorgeous Fishhook Arete...the
eastern half of Sequoia National Park...the Owens Valley and the
White Mountains beyond...it was all just too much to take in.
"Remember," Todd had said on the way up, "the summit is
only 49% of the climb. You still have to get back down." Clouds
were building to the southwest, and the weather forecast called for
rain. Leaving the summit at about 10:45 a.m., we hurriedly
retraced our steps back to our cache of gear. Rather than heading
straight down the North Face from our cache, we continued west
for another few hundred yards. This tactic enabled us to avoid
most of the Class 3 down climbing, and just added a little to the
length of our traverse back to The Notch.
Storm Watch
We continued our cloud watch through the rest of the descent, as
the white puffs became more frequent and eventually started to
block the sun. But it didn't rain. Even with the thought of being
trapped in a sudden downpour always in the backs of our minds,
we were able to enjoy the incredible views on the decent. Victory
was sweet.
Back in camp by 1:30 p.m., we quickly began the recovery
process. We ate, napped, and drank as much liquid as we could
hold. And there was plenty of time to reflect upon the
accomplishment of the day.
Exhaustion
"The most enjoyable part of mountaineering is getting there,"
Todd had told us earlier. "The summit is a bonus." How true! The
Mountaineer's Route was highly varied, and completely different
from what I had imagined—a veritable treasure of mountaineering
delights. The summit, however, was exactly as average as I had
expected it to be-and maybe even somewhat of a disappointment.
A great, rocky, gently sloping plateau. A toilet. A tin roofed
building. The route up and down had been a synopsis of
everything good about mountaineering. The summit became a
tick mark in my climbing diary.
That evening, we went to sleep early-well before dark. Soon
the wind picked up, whipping violently between the sand and our
floorless tent. Why, Steve even tells me that at one point the tent
collapsed, but I was too busy sleeping...
The Journey's End
Friday morning. It was time to go home, to leave our miniature
adventure and return to our regular lives. Leaving camp and our
million dollar view of Mt. Whitney and the Sierra Crest behind,
it was time to return to the rat race that we had worked so hard to
escape. Yet ironically it was this same rat race that had provided
mOthEr rOck #3 Page 10
the money, the gear, and the guide that made the trip possible.
The viscous circle of the part-time mountaineer.
It could have been the air getting increasingly thicker with
every downhill step, or it could have been the continued
exhilaration of having made the summit, or maybe we were just
in better shape...whatever the reason, our 60 pound packs
suddenly felt as light as feathers.
Steve (right) and Todd working their way down the North Face.
Reversing the course that so recently we had toiled over, we
raced down the mountain. Before long, our barren alpine desert
was behind us and we were again surrounded by a few trees, then
a forest of green. Pausing to look backwards at Mt. Whitney
whenever we could, we were reluctant to say good-bye to our new
friend.
Civilization Sucks
"We are now leaving civilization," said Todd, "and entering
chaos." Twenty feet later, we dropped off the steep trail of the
Mountaineer's Route and rejoined the main Mt. Whitney trail.
Within 30 seconds we were treated to the sights of countless
tourists and day trippers, many clearly unprepared for even the
shortest day hike in an environment such as this. More people
passed us in three minutes on the trail than we had seen on the
Mountaineer's Route in the last three days. There was even trash
on the trail. Hearts sank as the mediocre mountaineers realized
that the adventure was over. Fond memories and fading
photographs would have to sustain our desires for adventure, until
the next time.
In the modern classic Mountains of the Great Blue Dream,
Robert Leonard Reid best sums up the credo of the mountaineer.
"Mountain climbers positively relish the almost perfect rigor of
their discipline's cardinal directive: Go to the edge and perform
flawlessly, and you will survive (probably) to go to the edge
again. How delicious!"
Reflections
The evening after our successful summit bid, savoring soup and
burritos back at base camp, was a time for reflection.
"So," Todd asked, "was it harder or easier than you thought it
would be?"
"Harder," Steve said quickly. "Harder."
"It was exactly like I thought it would be," I replied without
even thinking. "I thought it was going to kick my ass, and that's
exactly what it did."
We had climbed and survived our mediocre Everest, and
would undoubtedly be back in years to come to conquer many
others. We were hooked. Viva la mediocre!
November/December 1996
Mt. Whitney Hikins and Climbing Resources II Brew of the Month
If you are contemplating a trip to the summit of Mt. Whitney,
isted below are some resources that can help you in planning
your trip.
Books
Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada, by Clarence King,
written in 1872, is considered the classic historical
mountaineering text on the Sierra Nevada range and contains a
chapter on an early attempt on the summit of Mt. Whitney.
Mt. Whitney High Sierra Hiking Guide, from Wilderness Press
describes a number of hikes in the vicinity of Mt. Whitney.
Climbing Mount Whitney, by Walt Wheelock and Tom
!ondon includes background information and a description of the
main hiking trail to the summit as well as brief descriptions of
several technical routes, including the Mountaineer's Route.
The Climber's Guide to the High Sierra, by Steve Roper
includes a chapter on the Mt. Whitney area. Concise descriptions
are given for a number of technical routes, from the more popular
ones such as the Mountaineer's Route and the East Face Route to
lesser-known, more difficult ones such as Cardiovascular Seizure.
Mount Whitney Guide for Hikers and Climbers, by Paul
Hellweg and Scott McDonald contains a good overview of the
history of Mt. Whitney, a detailed description of the main hiking
trail to the summit, and good descriptions of the three most
popular climbing routes (the Mountaineer's Route, the East Face
Route, and the East Buttress Route) as well as the most detailed
description of the tedious approach to the climbing routes.
Sierra Classics: 100 Best Climbs in the High Sierra, by John
Moynier and Claude Fiddler includes descriptions for the East
Face Route and the East Buttress Route.
Maps
* The Mt. Whitney USGS 15 minute quadrangle covers all but
the first mile of the approach to Mt. Whitney.
•The Mt. Whitney and Mt. Langley USGS 7.5 minute
quadrangle maps (in metric units) are the most detailed maps
available for the approach to Mt. Whitney.
Guides
• Todd J. Vogel, A Taste for Adventure, 286 May Street, Bishop
CA 93514, phone 619-873-8526, E-mail toddvogel®aol.com.
Parting Shot
"At first glance, the Buttermilks look like an Ansel Adams
poster. On second glance, too."
— John Sherman, Stone Crusade, 1994.
mOthEr rOck #3 Page 11
Did we really have a choice? It was so obvious, given this is a
special issue dedicated to the Sierras...
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale: Smooth...Satisfying
by Matt McGunigle
Beer. Mmmmm. I like Beer. Beer is good. Especially after a
long hot day of climbing. Some beer is always better than no
beer, but some beers are better than others. Sierra Nevada Pale
Ale is one of the better beers. It's one of those beers that never
leaves you thinking about other beers. It's really smooth. But it's
also hearty. I think it's the smoothness that gets me.
You know when you have to sneeze, and a couple of times
you start but then you don't quite get all the way to the sneezing
part. And then later, out of the blue you sneeze real big. But it's
not your ordinary sneeze, you notice this one going on a bit
longer. You feel like an observer. Convulsion with clarity. You
think: "Wow, this is one hell of a sneeze". Anyway, that's
smooth and satisfying, but not nearly as smooth and satisfying as
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
Or how about: you're going into a room. You go to open the
door and you don't know it, but someone else is opening the door
from the other side at exactly the same time. So for just a split
second, you think you're magic or something.
Smooth...satisfying. Still not as smooth as Sierra Nevada Pale
Ale. Oh—I know. You're looking for a parking space, and it
feels like you've been driving around for hours. You see spaces
but they're MILES away. There's GOT to be one somewhere! As
you pass the front of the store to turn down the middle row for
another useless lap—no way!—someone pulls out from the first
non-handicapped spot and you slip right in without even slowing
down. Smooth...and satisfying. Still, not quite there.
All right, this is it: you're working on a two-handed dyno
and when your feet clear the footholds you still have to travel
more than a foot to the handholds. You've come up short. You've
yanked your arms. You've slipped off hard. You've slipped off
soft. Finally, after all those tries, you arc through the air, your
hands relaxed, eyes calmly focused on the target, you reach the
apex of your trajectory and time stops. You effortlessly slip your
hands into position. It's like picking up a baby. And there you
are: smooth...satisfied.
Copyright © 1996 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group. All rights reserved. mOthEr rOck
magazine is published six times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to climb
somewhere) by The AMCC Group, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA, 92375-1151. E-
mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com or AMCCGroup@aol.com.
Publisher: Editor: Office Manager:
The AMCC Group Matt Artz Ruth Ariz
Contributing Editors:
Matt McGunigle Darell Palmer Bob Goff
Geoff Wade Jannine Senior Rob Stauder
Cindy Stigall
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send a check or money order for $10
to mOthEr rOcfc/The AMCC Group, P.O. Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
Subscriptions outside of the United States are $20 annually.
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll consider it. We're a no budget
operation, so send a SASE if you need your materials back. Photo submissions also
welcome.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you have not yet figured that out,
you're an idiot and you should probably stop climbing now before you hurt yourself
and others. And if you think you can bet your life on anything you read in mOthEr
rOck, think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any of the information
contained in these pages, and cannot be held responsible in any way for any of your
actions, acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's the way it should be.
You're a cumber after all.
November/December 1996
 ilitt
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Results

SUMMER X-GAMES
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Doggin' with the Editor
The editor bouldering in J-Tree. Photo: Darell Palmer
Cold Climbing is Back
Winter's back. Like an unexpected guest,
winter hit us early this year, with
significant snowfall in the local
mountains before the end of October!
Dashed were my last minute hopes of
putting up another moderate route or two
at Kindergarten Rock, or of exploring
uncharted territory at my new secret spot,
which I call "Peter's Piles" (after my
friend Peter who found it accidentally after
a long mountain bike ride). Oh, well.
There's always next year.
So, where to climb? J-Tree, of
course; time to dog-ear the annual pass and
give the (Randy) Vogel bible another year
of abuse. But then there's High Desert,
Jugs Over the Sand, Rotten Rocks, and oh
so many other places. Too many rocks,
too little time. California. It's a great
place to climb.
Has mOthEr rOck Sold Out?????
OK, so I spent the first few issues of
mOthEr rOck hammering on Climbing
and Rock & Ice, sometimes subtly,
sometimes blatantly. Sure, I subscribe to
both of them, and even (try to) read every
issue from cover to cover. I enjoy them
quite a bit. The point I've been trying to
stress, with some success, is that the vast
majority of climbers in the US don't
climb 5.13/5.14, and the magazines
should reflect this.
My goal with mOthEr rOck was to
give beginner and intermediate climbers
their voice. But lo and behold, a funny
thing happened on the way to mOthEr
rOck...Climbing and Rock & Ice have, in
recent issues, committed to writing some
stories that are more approachable to mere
mortals. Does this mean mOthEr rOck no
longer serves a purpose? Hardly.
Climbing and Rock & Ice have to cover a
lot of ground, at the expense of all the
little down and dirty regional details.
That's where mOthEr rOck comes in: it's
the down and dirty So Cal climbing rag.
mOthEr rOck #4
New Faces
Finally, some help! After what seemed
like a couple of issues that should have
been titled "Mart's Rock," I've finally
convinced some fresh faces to write stories
for mOthEr rOck. Please welcome Rob
Stauder, Brandon Thau, and hopefully a
whole bunch of other folks who will be
writing about their favorite climbing
subjects in upcoming issues.
Collectively, we'll strive to make mOthEr
rOck the crankin'est climbing mag in
town.
Until Issue #5, climb hard, climb
safe, and most importantly, have FUN!
Matt Artz, Editor
mOthErrOck@aol. com
Letters to the Editor
Hey mOthEr rOck,
Thanks for the mag! I would really like to
subscribe, but I'm just a student with no
money. I hope it all goes well. You
must have quite a market in So Cal. Keep
up the good work.
Joe Nolan, djn4@cornell.edu
Thanks Joe. It's a lot of fun, but we're
just starting out, so we don't have much
money either. Right now we're a few
hundred bucks in the hole for 1996....but
things look bright for next year! <wink
wink> Good luck at school, and keep us
in mind when you graduate and can afford
the finer things in life like champagne,
caviar, and mOthEr rOck magazine!
Dear mOthEr rOck,
Great idea for a mag!! Just discovered it
on Internet. Its about time that someone
wrote a mag for the vast majority of the
climbers, not just the elite!! And to have
it focus on So Cal, that's even better!!!
One suggestion: maybe a climbers
personal section for locals looking for
partners. Good luck and keep up the good
work. I'll be sending my check to
subscribe right after sending this letter.
Dave Chapman, SoCalDav@aol.com
Thanks Dave. Great idea about getting
people hooked up with potential partners.
I'll look at the possibility of setting up
something like that on the mOthEr rOck
site on the Web. Meanwhile, try the
California Climber's Network on the Web
at http://www.climbnet.com/ccn/!
Page 1
Wanted: Local Writers
mOthEr rOck is looking for a few good
climbers/writers to periodically contribute
to the magazine—everything from local
news and photos to mini-guides and full-
blown feature articles. Locals are needed
especially in areas like J-Tree, San Diego,
High Desert, LA, Orange County...but
we're open to almost anything. E-mail or
write us with your ideas. Climbers get
their name in the mag, a couple of free
issues, and other perks to be named later.
southern California's climbing magazine
Publisher
The AMCC Group
Editor
Matt Artz
Contributing Editors
Reese Martin (Central Coast)
Matt McGunigle (Mt. Rubidoux)
Rob Stauder (San Bernardino Mountains)
Cindy Stigall (San Jacinto Mountains)
Brandon Thau (San Luis Obispo)
Editorial Advisors
Ruth Artz Bob Goff Steve Harris
Darell Palmer Jannine Senior Geoff Wade
Copyright © 1997 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group. All
rights reserved. mOthEr rOck magazine is published six
times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to climb
somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951,
Redlands, CA, 92375-1151 USA. E-mail:
mOthErrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGroup@aol.com.
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send
a check or money order for $10 to mOthEr rOckfThe
AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-
1151. Subscriptions outside of the United States are $20
annually.
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll
consider it. We're a no budget operation, so send a
SASE if you need your materials back. Photo
submissions also welcome. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com
and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you
have not yet figured that out, you're an idiot and you
should probably stop climbing now before you hurt
yourself and others. And if you think you can bet your
life or safety on anything you read in mOthEr rOck,
think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any
of the information contained in these pages, and cannot
be held responsible in any way for any of your actions,
acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's
the way it should be. You're a climber after all.
On the Cover..,
Tom Slater took this photo of Brandon
Thau cranking "Meltdown," 5.lid, at
Bishop's Peak. Check out Brandon's
article in this issue about San Luis
Obispo area climbing.
January/February 1997

Comp Report
First Annual ROWCC Boulderfest and
Trash Clean-up, Snow Valley, CA
by Matt Artz
In the "good old days," Southern California could boast of the
annual California Bouldering Contest at Mt. Rubidoux, but since
the mid-80's comps have been few and far between...unless you
count indoor comps. Indoor climbing is bad enough, but indoor
comps can really bite, or so I've heard. So news of an actual
outdoor bouldering competition in our own backyard got many a
local climber excited.
A core group of Rim of the World Climbing Club
(ROWCC) locals has been developing the Snow Valley area in
the San Bernardino Mountains for the last two or three years, and
finally showed it off. Well, at least part of it. The "Snow
Valley West" area as they call it features 81 fine routes in the 5.4
to 5.12 range, about 20 of them toprope routes and the rest
boulder problems. I can't wait to see "Snow Valley East"...
Photo: Matt Artz
Climber at Jalapeno Cracks on "Ken's Arete," the hardest route
to date (150 points or 5.12-something) at Snow Valley West.
It was a cool autumn morning as we met in the parking lot
at the Snow Valley Ski Resort on Saturday, October 19th, 1996.
A fair number of the 70 or so pre-registered club members didn't
show, probably because of the blustery weather, but it was their
loss. The low clouds looked threatening, but the borderline
warm-in-the-sun, cool-in-the-shade weather was tailor made for
perfect climbing.
Travis "The Prez" McElvany assembled everyone in the
parking lot for a brief pep talk and an overview of the rules. He
stressed the basic theme of the "comp": to have fun and not take
it too seriously. After a few questions, we were off.
mOthEr rOck #4
A 20 minute hike led us to Snow Valley West, where Pat
"Trash Man" Brennan organized the clean-up crew. Car bumpers,
bottles, Styrofoam cups, and almost everything else imaginable
littered the area. The place started out looking pretty crappy, but
the crew picked it virtually spotless in a few short hours (the
only things remaining were a few untouchable objects like soiled
underwear and used toilet paper...yes, people are truly pigs). Pat
ticked off the number of bags each person collected, the winner
getting a nice new rope for their effort. In the afternoon, the
much appreciative Forest Service came by with a truck to move
the mountain of trash bags and larger pieces of junk off to a
landfill.
Then there was the climbing. From the easy 1 to 3 point
slabby problems on the ABC Boulder, to the classic vertical
problems on Orca Boulder; from the variety-pack selection of
finger and off-width cracks on the Jalapeno Cracks Boulder, to the
wicked 100-point overhanging traverse-to-mantel on the Burnt
Log Boulder; there were excellent problems everywhere, and still
potential for many more problems and countless variations. We
wandered between the boulders for hours, still only seeing less
than half of the routes.
How did the contest point system match up to the 5.x
Yosemite Decimal System or other rating systems? "We're not
telling," Travis told me. By the end of the day, I knew why:
because it didn't matter. The point ratings helped competitors to
roughly place the relative difficulty of the routes, and did give the
contest organizers a method to quantify the "winners" of the
comp. But I saw more people caught up in challenging
themselves to break through their own limitations, and nobody
with any real interest whatsoever in "beat the other guy"
cumulative point totals.
ROWCC Boulderfest Results, October 19th, 1996
Men: Women:
Matt Hock (940 points) Lisa Rands (833 points)
Anthony Scalise (875 points) Julia Cronk (33 points)
Jeff Price (399 points) Dixie Riley (26 points)
Craig Britton (362 points) Diane Rice (1 point)
Bruce Rubio (325 points)
Dave Walters (227 points)
Matt Artz (226 points)
Dan Franchin (161 points)
Ryan Williams (139 points)
Bob Cable (135 points)
Brian McGoldrick (130 points)
Dave O'Brien (122 points)
Edward O'Brien (82 points)
David Price (44 points)
Steve Harding (25 points)
The whole affair was very well organized. Mike Rigney, Jeff
Rigney, Brad Singer, Tony Gough, and other club officials, with
all the beta in their brains and connected by radios, were stationed
at each clump of boulders. There was a detailed 13-page problem
list, a porta-potty, two water stations, a big box of apples, about
two dozen topropes already in place, and all the free gymnastic
chalk you could cram into your bag. Best of all, although this
was technically a competition, everyone seemed to leave their
egos in the parking lot. It was like spending a relaxing day
climbing with 50 of your closest friends.
Page 2 January/February 1997
 So who won the comp? Frankly, who cares? There were no
losers. Everyone who participated was a winner, from the
relatively new climbers trying their best on 1 and 2 point
problems, to Matt Hock, who flashed the second ascent of "Ken's
Arete," the hardest route to date in the area at 150 points or 5.12-
something. And the entire climbing population of Southern
California was a big winner as well, as we now have another
major bouldering destination to boast of, along with promises of
a much larger So Cal bouldering contest to be hosted by the
ROWCC at Snow Valley in June of 1997. Stay tuned!
Classifieds
Advertise here for only $10 per issue, with up to six lines of
text. Bro, that's cheap. $5 more gets your logo scanned and
dropped in. Send your words along with your check to mOthEr
rOck, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
Join the Rim of the World Climbing Club. Monthly outings.
Quarterly newsletter. Only $30 annually! For information, write to
ROWCC, PO Box 3283, Blue Jay, CA 92317.
Mom was right: mOthEr rOck Magazine RULES! Subscribe today.
One year/six issues, only ten bucks. Send check/money order to
mOthEr rOck, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
mOthEr rOck Guidebooks Available
To order, send check/money order to mOthEr rOck, PO Box 7951,
Redlands, CA 92375-1151.
Guide to the 1984 California Bouldering Contest, by
Matt Artz. Own this essential piece of California climbing
history, and get some Mt. Rubidoux route information not found
in any of the current guidebooks. 8.5" by 5.5", bound, 28 pages.
Ideal for carrying with you on your next trip up Mt. Rubidoux.
Only $5.00 postpaid in the US
Turtle Rock Bouldering Guide, by Matt Artz. The most
comprehensive guide available to the mega-classic Real Hidden
Valley/Turtle Rock bouldering area at J-Tree. This book contains
detailed information on 64 boulder problems, many of which are
not listed by Mari Gingery, Randy Vogel, and Craig Fry in their
otherwise excellent guidebooks. Lots of photos and topos. 8.5"
by 5.5", bound, 44 pages. Only $8.00 postpaid in the US
Mini-Guide to The Mentone Boulders, by Matt Artz.
You read the article, now buy the guide so you can throw it in
your day pack. The only detailed guide to this site available!
Photos and topo. 8.5" by 5.5", bound, 8 pages. Only $2.50
postpaid in the US.
Mini-Guide to Iris Slab, by Matt Artz. The perfect
companion on your next visit to this classic Eastern Sierra
beginner/intermediate climbing destination. Big slab climbs
from 5.4 to 5.10c! Photos and topo. 8.5" by 5.5", bound, 12
pages. Only $3.00 postpaid in the US
• News • News • News • News • News •
Look Out San Diego, the 1997 Summer
X Games are Coming to Town!
Hot on the heels of the announcement that the first ever Winter X
Games will be held this month in Southern California, ESPN
recently announced that after two years in Rhode Island, the 1997
ESPN X Games will be held June 23-29 in San Diego!
mOthEr rOck#4
With the X Games, 400 of the world's top alternative
athletes will converge on the city of San Diego to competing in
such alternative sports as sport climbing, wakeboarding, in-line
skating, street luge, skateboarding, skysurfing, and bicycle stunt
riding. The event will be televised by ESPN, ESPN2, and ESPN
International. ESPNET SportsZone will also provide extensive
daily coverage on the World Wide Web. Correspondents from
mOthEr rOck magazine will attempt to get Katie Brown's
autograph, I mean, cover the event—even if they have to sneak in.
"In just two years, we have developed the X Games into a
major international franchise and it was time to move it to the
Mecca of alternative sports — the West Coast," an ESPN
spokesperson said. "With nearly 25 percent of our athletes from
California, coupled with the strong interest we received from San
Diego, the 1997 X Games should be our best yet." A mOthEr
rOck spokesperson, obviously stoked when he heard the news,
could only stammer "RAD! Totally RAD!"
Well over 200,000 people are expected to attend the 1997 X
Games. Mariner's Point in San Diego will serve as the primary
site for the X Games. If it wasn't considered such already, the
1997 X Games will firmly cement So Cal's reputation as the
extreme sports capital of the world!
The "Other" So Cal Climbing Mag.
You Gotta Get It!
There's another climbing newsletter/mag in town. No, we're not
talking about Allez, the ultra-hardman high numbers mag that
seems to have fallen off the face of the earth in the last year...we
mean "What's the Beta," the quarterly publication of the Rim of
the World Climbing Club (ROWCC). Four times a year, editor
Anthony Gough pulls together local access notes, information on
club outings, stories, and other info for club members.
Only ROWCC members get "What's the Beta," so join now!
Membership is only $30 annually. For more information, write
to ROWCC, PO Box 3283, Blue Jay, CA 92317.
Wanted: A Few Obscure Sites
There's So Much Out There-Help Us
Document It!
Are the rocks in Anza Borrego Desert State Park climbable? Is
there any good bouldering in the Cima Dome Joshua Tree Forest
in the East Mojave? What's up with Keller Cliffs, or those
boulders behind the Baker Creek campground in the Eastern
Sierras? What about those long routes I've heard about in the
Granite Mountains, or that black volcanic wall that seems to
stretch for more than a mile along Kelbaker Road in the Mojave
National Preserve? Are there really some good ice routes up in
the San Gabriels near Mt. Baldy? And have you seen Jim
Bridwell's super-secret chip-and-glue training site out near Palm
Desert?
Do you know the inside scoop on any of these spots, or any
of Southern California's multitude of even more obscure
climbing sites?
If you've got the info and would like to share it with the So
Cal climbing community, drop us a quick E-mail at
mOthErrOck@aol.com or send us a note. We'll get in touch
with you and write it up!
Page 3 January/February 1997
 Surfing the Internet... San Luis Obispo Area Climbing
Climbing and Related Mags on the Web The Seven Sisters
For your surfing enjoyment, following is a list of climbing and by Brandon Thau
related magazines on the WWW. Included are both full-time
climbing mags, such as Rock & Ice, as well as magazines like The San Luis Obispo area has been climbed since the 1970's by
Outside which regularly cover climbing. Some of these are Web- Rusty Garing and Pete Gulyash, and local routes have been
only magazines, such as Available Rock, but most are Web established by well known climbers such as Tobin Sorenson and
versions of traditional paper mags. If you know of any others Hans Florine. Recently, world class climbers Doug Englekirk
that we missed, please E-mail us at mOthErrOck@aol.com. and Jean-Paul Finne have visited the area to sample the harder
routes. In other words, the Seven Sisters are not a secret, "locals
Climbing and Related Mags on the Weh" only" climbing area.
mOthEr rOck The Seven Sisters are a range of old volcanoes that stretch
http://members.aol.com/mOthErrOck/ from San Luis Obispo to Morro Bay. Only Cabrillo and Bishop
Rock and Ice Peaks have free access; the rest of the areas are on private
http://www.rockandice.com/ property and trespassers have been shot at. Bishop is the most
CLIMBING popular spot and is the origin of climbing in the area. Bishop
http://www.climbing.com/ Peak is a serene area except for the abundance of cow pies and the
wonderful trail the Sierra Club installed last year. College
Allez students and passing climbers crowd the area during weekends.
http://www.kdi.com/~allez/hpagenew.htm The rock is fractured volcanic with scattered gas pockets, and the
The Thing (UK) climate allows for year-round climbing.
http://www.shef.ac,uk/um/academic/I-M/is/rstaff/gareth/
thing5.htm] ,' >|t
Available Rock ••-
http://www.availablerock.com/ | -,
Klettern
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/klettern/
Climb (Australia)
http://www.ozcmail.com.au/~climb/
Mountain (UK)
http://www.ikhaya.co.uk/mountain/
Cyberwest
http://www.cyberwest.com/
Alp
http://vivaiaa.com/alp/alpenglish/
Outside
http://web2.starwave.com/index.html
Adventure West Magazine ; SS
http://www.adventurewest.com/
Le Surplqmb (Belgium)
http://isis.ltas.ulg.ac.be/surplomb/
Photo: Tom Slater
The Mountian Zone &
http://www.mountainzone.com/ Brandon Thau on "Mushies," 11+/B1-, Clarissa, Bishop Peak.
WILD Most of the routes have been put up on lead and have
http://members.tripod.com/~pscragg/index.html considerable runouts, the best example being Tobin Sorenson's
Get Lost Adventure Magazine! "Inner Sanctum" 5.10a, with the first bolt 40 feet off the ground.
http://www.itsnet.com/home/getlost/mag.html i Climbing falls into the slab or vertical categories with a shortage
of crack, the notable exceptions being "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely
Rotpunkt (Germany)
Hearts Hand Jam" 5.10b and "P-Crack" 5.9. Most climbs can be
http://www.rotpunkt.de/rotpunkt.htm toproped, the best place being Cracked Wall. The main
Go West bouldering at Bishops, which contain problems in the 5.6 to
http://www.GoWest.com/general/genetop.htm 5.12+ range, is called Pete and Clorissa. The bouldering area, as
First-Out (Germany) with all areas at Bishops, entertain a full view over San Luis
http://www.first-out.de Obispo and green hills leading down towards the ocean.
NorskKlatring (Norway) If you want to be close to the ocean while you climb, then
http://www.sn.no/home/mariusbe "5 Cabrillo Peak is your place. Short climbs overlook the Morro
Bay Estuary and Morro Rock. This is mainly a toprope area, but

mOthEr rOck#4 Page 4 January/February 1997

a few bolted lead climbs have been established such as "Tan A/ Chili Peppers, which offers cheap massive burritos for the
Streak" 5.6, and "Black Gold" 5.8. climber on a budget, can be found at 791 Foothill Blvd., very
Cerro Romualdo has a plethora of easy and hard lead routes. close to Highway 1 when going through San Luis Obispo.
Access is a problem, since the National Guard controls the
entrance, but it's only a matter of time before the access is Guidebooks
worked out and everybody can enjoy this area. The other areas V Rock Climbs of the Seven Sisters, by Tom Slater (more
such as Morro Rock, Hollister Peak, and Chumash Peak have complete and up to date information for San Luis Obispo).
routes but access is currently illegal. V Climbing in Santa Barbara, Ventura, and San Luis Obispo, by
Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele.
Recommended Moderate Climbs
• Bouldering at Clorissa and Pete, (Bishop Peak)
• "Camel," 5.10b (Bishop Peak)
• "60 Seconds," 5.6 (Bishop Peak)
• "Sgt. Peppers," 5.10b (Bishop Peak)
• "P-Crack," 5.9 (Bishop Peak)
• "Route Canal," 5.10a (Bishop Peak)
• "Shadow," 5.7 (Bishop Peak)
• "Desperado," 5.10 (Bishop Peak)
• "Tan Streak," 5.6 (Cabrillo Peak)
• "Chimney Crack," 5.7 (Cabrillo Peak)
• "Black Gold," 5.8 (Cabrillo Peak)
• "Frosted Hakes," 5.8 (Cerro Romualdo)
• "Rainbow Pools," 5.9 (Cerro Romualdo)
• "Amputation," 5.10a (Cerro Romualdo)
• "Full Metal Jacket," 5.10c (Cerro Romualdo)

Photo: Tom Slater

Brandon Thau on "O.G.," 5.11a/b, Bishop Peak.

Photo: Tom Slater
Brandon Thau on "La Conchita," 5.lib, Cerro Romualdo.
Recommended Hard Climbs
• "O.G. ," 5.11a/b (Bishop Peak)
• "Western Airlines," 5.lib (Bishop Peak)
• "La Conchita," 5.1 Ib (Cerro Romauldo)
• "The Phoenix," 5.12b (Cerro Romauldo)
• "Tsunami," 5.12b (Cerro Romauldo)
• "Throwing the Tube," 5.12a (Cerro Romauldo)
Places to Eat
Climbing Shops
\ Stairway, 871 Santa Rosa St., San Luis Obispo.
V Wilderness Outfitters, 127 E. Branch St., Arroyo Grande.
V Mountain Air Sports, 667 Marsh St., San Luis Obispo.
Brandon Thau is a student at Cat Poly San Luis Obispo.
Unconfirmed Rumor Department
New Bouldering Rumored in San Jacinto Mountains
The San Jacinto mountain range, best know for its big routes at
Tahquitz and Suicide and it's classic bouldering areas like South
Ridge and Black Mountain, still has much to give to the
climbing community. The latest rumors focus on the vast
quantity of rock at the top of the San Jacinto tram.
Photo: Matt Artz

"V Hudsons Bar and Grill, a place for excellent hamburgers and
coffee shakes, is at 1005 Monterey St. in downtown San Luis
Obispo.
V Hofbrau, known for its awesome roast beef sandwiches, is
located at 571 Embarcadero near the harbor in Morro Bay.
San Jacinto: Future bouldering nirvana?
The only drawback to bouldering there would be the $15.95
it costs to go up the tram-a hefty chunk of change to shell out
just to go bouldering. But based on the number of potential
routes and the high quality of the stone there, it may very well be
worth it. We'll keep you informed as we get more details.

mOthEr rOck#4 PageS January/February 1997


Training
Cranking on Home Turf, or
"The Joys of Having a Woodie"
by Matt Artz
It's cold outside. Winter is here. Many of the local haunts are
off limits until the days get longer. The good news is that J-Tree
is finally back in season. The bad news is, it can get damn cold
at J-Tree; climbing with near-frostbitten fingers is nobody's idea
of fun, except for maybe Mark Twight. Worse yet, with precious
few hours of daylight, fitting in those afternoon bouldering
training sessions can be next to impossible, unless you like
bouldering by lantern light. Is it too much to ask to have a
bouldering area with 10 or 20 good problems within 50 feet of
your brewfridgerator?
Welcome to mOthEr rOck gym. Five years in the making,
it's been complete for about a year now. It takes up half of my
two car garage, but is jam-packed with the following features:
• 360 square feet of climbing surface, with 520 holds, mostly
finger-friendly and forgiving wood, but some plastic.
• The main wall has a 17 1/2 foot traverse and a large roof. There
are about ten hard boulder routes marked on the wall at this time,
with room for countless other combinations.
Photo: Ruth Artz
Wood is Good. Pumping Pine in mOthEr rOck gym.
• The "East Annex" has a killer 8 foot wide overhanging section,
featuring five or six excellent 5.10 to 5.11 routes; on the back is
a large slabby section for letting the kids climb (also great for
warm-ups and one-handed practice).
• A short but deadly campus board, 8 strips of 3/4 inch wood
(flat, not incut) going up at about a 115 degree angle (ouch).
• A selection of small and sloping edges for fingertip pull-ups and
hangs.
After building and training on a fairly elaborate "garage
woodie" for the past six years, I have a few bits of advice:
Start Small, Think Big. You can start with as little as
a single 4-foot-by-8-foot piece of plywood, although that's pretty
limiting. If you do start out small, at least have the grand
scheme worked out in your head in advance. Because once you
get in to it, you may just get carried away...
The Pleasures of Wood. If you're not up to dropping a
few grand on plastic holds, consider the wonders of wood. For
pennies per hold, you can crank out a multitude of wooden jugs
and crimpers. And wood turns out to also be much friendlier to
the skin than plastic. This means you'll climb longer and get
mOthEr rOck#4
stronger, your forearms usually calling it a day long before raw
flesh is exposed on your fingertips.
Routesetting. While some may consider it a science, you
don't really have to get a Ph.D. in routesetting to set decent
routes. Think about it: some of the best problems on real rock
involve decoding puzzling sequences on a random series of flaws
in the stone. My best routes have come together when not
thinking too deeply, just marking off an absurdly random line of
holds. Working some of these routes has literally taken years.
Kind of reminds me of a little something I like to call REAL
ROCK.
Establish a Training Ritual. Donning only your rock
shoes and a dab of chalk over your private parts, sit cross-legged
in front of your wall, repeatedly chanting your mantra of "I am
rock, and rock is like wood, therefore my name is woodie." Once
you become one with the wall, its problems become your
problems, its solutions become your solutions...or, just do like
me. Invite a couple of friends over every Tuesday and Thursday
night. Climb hard for two or three hours, then order some pizza
and raid the brewfridgerator. And please wear yer clothes!
Campusing. Do yourself a favor: build yourself a small
wooden campus board. Just don't overdo it. See Issue #1
(July/August 1996) of mOthEr rOck for all of the gory details.
Linking. With the combination of the campus board and
the billions of short bouldery routes you'll set, you'll build the
strength of a veteran teamster. But endurance-wise, you could end
up like a professional wrestler running a marathon: dropping
before the first doughnut, er, water stop. The solution?
Linkages from Hell! Take four or five or six or more of your
favorite wired problems, and create a sick and hideous sequence
which links them all. Yes, it's hell. But you'll thank me later.
In our next issue: Rob Stauder will share with us the joys of
how to build—and train on—a crack machine.
Overlooked Site of the Month
Mormon Rocks is Not All Choss!
by Brandon Thau
The most significant climbing site that I can think of that has
been overlooked in Southern California is Mormon Rocks, off
Interstate 15 in the Cajon Pass. The area has great potential for
long moderate routes, and I know of at least three bolt ladders on
the North side of the biggest face.
Photo: Matt Artz
Not all the stone at Mormon Rocks is crap...just most of it.
There's an old 5.6 route that's about 120 feet long, and I
installed a two pitch route about four years ago. It's called
Page 6 January/February 1997
"Sandstone Balls," 5.10, all bolts. I don't know the current
condition of the bolts, but the climb was very nice and all the
conglomerate holds were solid. There is a lot of potential for
steep sport routes on the south sides of the rocks, if certain
measures are taken. Go check it out!
Brandon Thau can be contacted at jthau@oboe.aix.calpoly.edu.
Look for a topo of his route "Sandstone Balls" in a future issue.
Geoff and Jann Finally Get Hitched!
The Forest Falls Wedding of Geoff Wade and
Jannine Senior
by Matt Artz
You've been following their story for the last couple of issues.
First, their engagement on Secret Spot Rock at North Shore, Big
Bear (issue #2), and then Geoff s "alternative" bachelor party at
the Buttermilks (issue #3). On Sunday, October 20th, 1996, the
happy couple were wed in an intimate ceremony about a half hour
hike up the Vivian Creek trail in Forest Falls.
Photos: Matt Artz
The happy couple (left); Sonny and Cher McGunigle (right).
Matt McGunigle played a special song on his guitar for the
couple, and was joined by his wife Gayle on vocals. Matt Artz
read a special piece he wrote for the couple, who originally met
as climbers looking for partners in the UK several years ago.
The after-wedding party at Geoff and Jann's house went off
without a hitch. The catered food from the local Mexican
restaurant was wonderful. The non-climbers in attendance fell for
the cheesy decoy and naively guzzled from the kegger all night,
while the climbers hung out in the kitchen, guarding the fridge
and the hidden supply of top quality microbrew.
The party broke up pretty early—wedding night stuff, you
know—and Geoff and Jann left the next morning for a week-long
honeymoon of exploring in Utah and Arizona.
In our next issue: the Geoff and Jann procreation report.
Climbing Insurance Available
World Climbing Association
The World Climbing Association (WCA) is a non-profit,
member benefit association committed to providing fellow rock
climbers with valuable benefits that will add to their enjoyment
mOthEr rOck#4
and participation in the sport. They provide climbing insurance,
rescue coverage, medical coverage, gear replacement, travel
assistance, and other benefits. Annual membership starts at just
$75. As with any insurance, certain limitations and policy limits
apply. Call 1-888-922-6362 for more information
Tidbits
US Pro Tour Set for Pasadena
In the increasingly popular market of climbing competitions,
Great Pacific Production Co. is putting together a US Pro Tour
for this coming summer. Locally, the Tour is tentatively
planned to hit Pasadena, September 10-13, 1997. See you there!
Bartlett Promoted to Assistant Sales Manager
Congrats to Reed Bartlett, who was recently promoted to
Assistant Sales Manager of Five.Ten in Redlands. Does this
mean you can get me free shoes now, Reed?
Shoe Bargains for Persistent People
Speaking of Five.Ten...looking for a smokin' deal on a pair of
climbing shoes? Five.Ten sells demos and seconds from the back
of their warehouse every Friday afternoon. The selection varies
considerably, so you'll probably have to make a few trips before
you find something you're satisfied with. These are not new
shoes, but cosmetic seconds, over-runs, old/discontinued/outdated
models, or used demos. The sale is held every Friday 2 p.m. to 4
p.m. only. Five.Ten is located at 125 Kansas St., Redlands,
CA 92373. Let's see, a free "ad"...now you really owe me some
free shoes, Reed. Anasazi lace-ups, size 10, will do just fine.
Scalise Recovering from J-Tree Fall
Local climber and Rim of the World Climbing Club member
Anthony Scalise took a whipper on "Spiderman," 5.10a, in J-
Tree in early November. He is alive today thanks to the large
bush he landed on at the bottom of the route, and is expected to
make a full recovery. Get well Anthony, and we'll see you at a
Rim of the World Climbing Club outing soon!
Good-bye Allez; Hello Coastal Bouldering Guide
Allez, the Southern California high-numbers climbing magazine
that a few hard-core proponents loved for its attempts to make
Southern Californians climb on par with the EuroGods, and
many critics loved to hate for it's overzealous reporting of
chipped routes, is apparently dead. "(Allez editor) Steve Edwards
says he isn't going to do anymore issues," said one local. "Too
much work for the money." We here at mOthEr rOck can't argue
with that logic. Edwards is instead keeping himself busy putting
up new hard routes on the Central Coast, and is reportedly
working on a Central Coast Bouldering Guide.
Check Out Boulderdash!
It's the quarterly publication covering climbing in the Southeast.
$10 annually gets you four issues. Boulderdash!, PO Box 18615,
Asheville, NC 28814. OrE-mailbldrdash@aol.com.
Artz Hooks Up With Rock & Ice
Matt Artz, the Bullitzer Prize-winning editor of mOthEr rOck,
was recently asked by DeAnne Musolf, editor-in-chief of Rock &
Ice magazine, to become a local correspondent for Rock & Ice.
He will be regularly submitting articles and information about
the So Cal climbing community for possible publication in both
the on-line and printed versions of Rock & Ice.
Send miscellaneous new items to mOthErrOck@aol.com.
Page 7 January/February 1997

Trip Report
Jack's Canyon: A Great Place to Crank
by Rob Stauder
Newly arrived to California from a hectic midwest existence,
I came across a free weekend and an invitation to meet some
friends in Jack's Canyon, Arizona. In other times, I might have
scoffed at the opportunity to go sport climbing, but a long layoff
had destroyed any ethical pretensions I used to have. As all forms
of climbing are beautiful and valid, I readily agreed to the venture.
I pushed aside my preferences for ugly crack climbing and
psyched myself up for a weekend of knee drops and pocket
pulling on superb desert limestone.
Over the course of the previous year, I had lead only one
climb and gone bouldering only a few times. Normally, this
entailed an illegal ascent of university building walls. Jack's,
rumored to be "softly" rated and well bolted, seemed like a great
place to ease back into the adrenaline-fest of lead climbing. No
routes at Jack's predate 1993, so rest assured that those bolts are
quite secure. Plus, it lies in the fabulous canyon country of the
desert southwest, a spiritual place where you can see the sky
curve along the horizon. The earth here is as large as an ancient
sea bed.
It had been an ugly day at work so I fled at 3 p.m. on Friday
afternoon. I zoomed east across Southern California, into
Arizona and the desert night. Late summer cooks the desert but
the nights are clear and you can see the milky way. Jack's lies
about 30 miles south of Winslow, Arizona (of "Take it Easy"
fame). Jack's Canyon is actually part of a greater canyon system,
the Moenkopi, which snakes around North Central Arizona. The
canyon entrance lies on public land, across a mesa, about six
miles from the road. It is conveniently isolated and unmarked.
You must even open a gate and close it behind you once you
leave the pavement.
My friends Jay and Emily were still awake, awaiting my
arrival. A huge night sky arched over us and the other scant
dwellers of the high desert like the pinyon and juniper bushes.
I spread my sleeping bag underneath one of these, on the soft
mesa sand, and fell into a deep sleep far from electric power and
motor homes. I had my next day's strategy figured out: toprope a
few climbs and when I feel comfortable, grab the sharp end and
send some routes.
Not a cloud in sight. A mammoth mesa in the distance, red
against the morning sun and miles of shadow. We ate quickly,
chatted about our former midwest lives. They had bombed out
here a few days previously and were enjoying the huge western
expanse surrounding them.
We descended into the canyon through broken and black
walls. Several tiers stepped their way to the sunny bottom. Our
objective: the first few routes on the "Casino Cliffs." This band
runs on the west side of the stream that snakes through the
Moenkopi. Over 40 routes dot the cliff line. Jay warmed up on
"Bet on Black," a slabby 5.9. Quickly cranking the route, he
threaded the shuts at top and lowered off. Emily was up and
down in moments. As I was putting on my shoes, I heard the
rope come whistling down. I turned around and saw Jay looking
sheepishly at me. Intentional or not, I was sandbagged! So
much for my easing back into leading. It would have been too
wimpy to let Jay take another lead. I had to lead now or forever
mOthEr rOck #4
compromise my studliness. I jumped on the sharp for a ride up
"Double or Nothin'," a 5.9, four bolt arete up a leaning pillar.
This climb, while not spectacular, involved strange and fun high
steps. It felt so good that I grabbed the next lead up the nearby
"Edge your Bets," another 5.9 but pocketed and vertical. Harder
than the previous route, this one went straight up a 40 foot wall
on awesome brown and yellow limestone. Jay cranked "Slot of
fun," a 5.10a face next to "Edge your Bets." Another four bolt
line, the route travels over a small pumpy crux bulge. I was too
scared to immediately jump on a 5.10. But this is sport
climbing—well placed bolts every seven to ten feet. You can go
for it. And Jay did on the first line on the Casino Cliff—
"Mustang Ranch," a short 5.lib out a paunchy roof to pockets.
Jay is usually pretty solid on 5.11 but this route pummeled him.
A thin seam travels out a nasty bulge. I swear I heard some
passerby mumble something about 5.12. The most painful
moves looked to be the one finger-lie-back-to-the-thin-edge for
the third clip. To his credit, he finished the route.
Photo: Rob Stauder
"Genesis," S.lOd, follows the left line of pockets;
"Power Trip, " 5. lie, goes up the overhanging face
on the right, ending under the roof.
Forget this. I had massacred my hands enough two days
previously on sharp Keller Peak granite, so I was not about to
ruin my fingers on day one at Jack's Canyon.
With Jay somewhat humbled and the morning barely expired, we
decided to move down the canyon to the "Cracker Jack Cliffs."
This band lies half a mile down the Moenkopi and sports over 60
excellently pocketed routes. The approach provides a beautiful
respite from recent activities on the Casino Wall. Black pocketed
limestone aeries soar over 150 feet to the Mesa. These are
broken into three sections, each a steep or overhanging wall.
Seeing it, you savor the potential for the next type of route
development at Jack's: multi-pitch. Parts of the trail offer views
of vine covered walls and ancient trees. Jack's has that strange,
otherworldly look so characteristic of canyon country.
We scouted a few 5.10s and spent time pondering routes.
Boulder problems. A 5.5 sport climb. I lead "Jack's Crown," a
PageS January/February 1997
short 5.10a that was somewhat slabby. In other areas, it would
have been a questionable 5.9, but that's the canyon rating system.
Either way, it didn't matter because I'd come to this place to pull
down and lose my mind in the absorbing inner focus of making
moves. "Jill and Drill," a similar 5.10a, makes you think more
as you stretch up its pockets. Two routes down from where we
were and under a thin bulge, two Germans fired "Frequent Flyer,"
an edgy 5.12a. The atmosphere reeked of dry desert and cranking,
focused climbers.
By this time, I was charged. I wanted to get on something
hard for me and quickly located "Total Lack of Jack," a slightly
overhanging and thinly pocketed 5.10c. Upon my first move I
was centered on staying on my feet as my fingertips balanced on
the shallow pockets and edges that wend up the wall. Above the
third bolt I side pulled off a beautiful pocket and cranked off my
right foot to stretch for an edge. A high step onto a horizontal
feature put me into clipping range of the fourth bolt. Executing
these moves on lead felt hollow like a breeze. I thought nothing
but floated over the sequence in a crank trance.
The day began to wind down. Emily wanted to head back to
camp. Late afternoon hit as the sun lost its direct shine on the
canyon floor. The wind picked up and I felt somewhat burnt by
the sun, the views, and the moves. As Emily strode off on a
hike that eventually revealed a sun-whitened cow skeleton, Jay
and I strode off to clip some more bolts.
Pholo: Rob Stauder
Jay Bishop on "Slots of Fun, " S.lOa.
We marched back to the Casino Cliffs to "Sports Book," a S.lOa
bolted crack. This idea, bolting a crack, has always seemed
absurd to me, kind of like wiping your own ass with your baby's
wipes. But, as sport climbing is a celebration of movement and
not placing pro, cracks are to be bolted.
For a Jack's climb, the first bolt was a high 15 feet. The
crack started here and flared its way up vertically for another 30
feet. Then it seemed to angle off slightly. The limestone seemed
somewhat smoother as I felt my way up to the first clip. I could
not get a good jam. My hands kept buttering out of this crack
and I could not torque them correctly. One of my feet was
mOthEr rOck #4 Page 9
twisted into the fissure and the other kept skidding off the face.
I was about to sail. In one last, desperate, and certainly grunty
move, I craned my head back and levered off the bolt hanger with
my skull. No finesse here. I was back into my element.
Having thrust myself back into the crack, I jammed the slippery
thing another few feet before I could stem out to pockets. Jay, of
course, dialed my troublesome spot by stemming and laybacking
the corner. I should have known! No intelligent sport climber
would use something as ungraceful as a hand jam. "Sports
Book," S.lOa, is a fine climb, certainly an area classic. However,
it would be a much different climb it you had to place your own
pro. And, if I may opine, far better.
Photo: Rob Stauder
Emily Bonansinga on "Double or Nothing," 5.9.
Jay was up for one more, so we moved down to "Ace in the
Hole," a vertical 5.10b face in the back of a grotto-dihedral. A
thin edge to an undercling brings you out to thin pockets and
then up desperate fingertip liebacking. Jay cruised it first try but
it did make him think. I followed it and could not believe the
thin pockets I was cranking off. This was a sustained, crimpy
climb miles harder than most of the other routes we had done and
definitely another area must-do. Before we ascended the mesa, we
scoped "Ten the Hard Way," a 5.10d thin edge-fest, and "Dealer's
Choice," 5.10c, another bolted crack. Both looked steep and
sustained, and tasty tidbits for a return voyage.
The day was done; now it was time to drink frothy, dark beer and
revel in our day's accomplishments. We had cranked ten routes
and my body was descending from the day's steady adrenaline
surge. Another clear canyon country night unfolded with
millions of stars. We swilled Australian Stout into the night and
laid around totally enraptured by the sky. Too long in
civilization and not enough humbling from Mother Nature's
expanse. I missed my wife and little daughter tremendously and
knew they would have loved to be on this trip. The ancient sea
bed has a silence that grows at night. In the morning, before the
stoves fire up, it is also noticeable. The air is clear and views
stretch into miles. The scale of the earth makes you formless and
January/February 1997
squashes your puny existence. At this point you are ready to turn
off the inner chatter and crank.
Back into the canyon, we follow the Moenkopi down the
Main Wall. This wall is Jack's wildest with huge overhangs, big
numbers, and skinny, sullen sport climbers. A sample of a
typical route here is, as described in the guide, "Ropin1 the
Wind," 5.12d: "Rope the wind and take a wild ride on desperate
moves." We, of course, avoid these, and head to the end of the
cliff line for a few warm ups. Our first route, "Blackened," is a
very thin 5.10a, and easier than some 5.8s I have done. The next
two, "Take your Pick," and "Windchill," were a different story.
The first, a 5.9, has a hard bouldery start that backed me down
once. I figured out the slopy moves and enjoyed the jugs above.
The second traveled out a small overhang to tiring thin edges and
bizarre, balancey moves. Both of these are sustained and should
rank as Jack's classics.
Flying on adrenaline and pleasantly surprised by the previous
two routes, we made our way back under 5.12s and 5.13s. Some
gaunt and acrobatic crankster hung above from one heel and a
hand on a distant pocket. We landed at "Last Episode," a 5.10d
pocketed crank over four bolts and steep ground. Jay sped up it,
got tricked by the goofy left moves, and ended up in the chimney
to the right. A thin traverse out left to the bolts was necessary,
and Jay clipped the shuts somewhat freaked and pumped.
I figured out the sequence left, pinching and pocket-pulling my
way to almost flashing the route on toprope when I was yanked
rudely down by the undipped quickdraw at my feet. A stupid lead
fall on toprope on this excellent Jack's route.
Photo: Rob Stauder
Jay Bishop on "Edge Your Bets," 5.9.
The wind picked up and gray clouds built overhead. The sun-
warmed land chilled suddenly. We were unsure if a storm was
going to blow in but things did look ominous. So did the huge
overhanging 5.lie we were hiding under. Some honemasters had
left a toprope on it for warm up so we jumped on it. "Power
Trip" voyages 40 feet up through four bolts. Each move
overhangs the previous and every move is 6" to 1' out of your
reach. Jay cranked it gracefully with a hang. I hung at every bolt
mOthEr rOck #4
and finished it totally burned. To reach the shuts, I had to stick a
heel hook way over my head, pulling up with my leg and one
arm.
People started to pack up and head out. We decided to try one
more route before the deluge. The route, "Genesis," is a 5.10d
and was the second line put up at Jack's. Seven bolts cruise over
70 feet, 50 of which overhang slightly. Pockets and incut jugs
haul their way up this beautiful route. Jay lowered from the
fourth bolt with sore hands. I climbed up to the high point,
hung for a rest in classic Jack's style, and then cruised the final
overhangs with a dramatic shout of "YOU WON'T FALL!"
Above the last bolt, you look down through your stemmed legs
70 feet to the ground. I lowered and cleaned, reminded of a
similar route, "Jack in the Pulpit," in another type of canyon
country, the Red River Gorge of Kentucky.
Back on the ground, we packed up. I was totally satisfied
with the finale on such a classic route. The wind picked up and a
slight rain fell on the desert. I pondered Jack's notorious
reputation for easy ratings. For the routes we did, it was 50-50.
Who knows why this is so? Maybe because Jack's is a new place
or that its authors want it to get well known. However, as if to
reinforce the relativity and meaningless of ratings, the owner of
the rope on "Power Trip" returned, tied in, and flashed the
behemoth in his Tevas for his warm down.
Storms in canyon country blow in hard but dump minimal
moisture. The sky gets ugly in its big, threatening way, and the
land acquires a darker shade of red, black, silver, green, and
purple. Jay, Emily, and I talked for a while in the back of their
truck. They were going to move onto the Enchanted Tower in
New Mexico, another stop on their tour of new western sport
crags. My destination was work the following day. Looking
back on Jack's, it is a great place to crank. If you like sport
routes, this is a place for you. You can crank many routes in a
day. It is also a great place to warm up for something bigger and
more mentally committing. You can train your body as well as
mind on Jack's multitude of well protected hard climbs. It has a
lot of bouldering which could be the focus of a trip in itself.
Finally, it is a great place to relax and focus on the land, the sky,
and super climbing.
For more information on Jack's Canyon, see the guide: Jack's
Canyon Sport Climbing by Dierdre Burton and Jim Steagall.
Rob Stauder, with a crapload (well, OK, five) trad first ascents at
Kentucky's Red River Gorge, now lives in Running Springs.
Book Review
Database of Rock Climbs in California, Version
1.1, for PC or Macintosh, by Don Chambers. The
Backcountry, Redlands, California; 1996. Paperback; 22 pages
plus diskette. $21.95.
When I first saw Don Chambers' book "Index to Rock Climbs in
California," I was skeptical. It was obviously a labor of love,
but I couldn't see shelling out 20 bucks for a photocopied list of
14,000+ climbs in California. Interesting idea, but exactly what
would a climber use it for?
But luckily for climbers in California, Don had bigger and
better plans. The database has been updated to include
information about more than 16,000 routes in California, and is
now available on diskette for use on your personal computer as
Page 10 January/February 1997
"Database of Rock Climbs in California." Again, it's an
interesting idea, but what would you use it for?
Think about it. You're planning your weekend climbing
road trip to the Eastern Sierra. You're interested in certain types
of climbs, in a very specific grade range. And you want to
maximize your time there by having a clear plan of attack. That
used to mean countless hours thumbing through the guidebooks.
But this time, you try something a little different. You open
up the "Database of Rock Climbs in California." Within a few
minutes, you have your plan. A simple query has given you a
mega-list of all the 5.10 to 5.11 routes in the Eastern Sierra.
Too many, in fact, to climb in a month, let alone a weekend. So
you refine your search to include only "recommended" routes.
The resulting list is still too much to handle in a weekend, but is
much more manageable.
While you don't have to be a computer expert to use this
database, be aware that this is a raw database, not a standalone
program. But it's a fairly straightforward process to load the
database into your favorite application, such as Excel, Access,
Lotus 1-2-3, ClarisWorks, FileMaker Pro, or whatever you
already have on your computer. Then, using the query tools
native to that application, you can quickly search for certain types
or grades of climbs in certain areas, or even add your own
information to the database, such as the date you climbed a
certain route, your partner's name, comments about route
conditions, etc.
Will the concept of using a computerized database to plan
your next climbing outing catch on? Maybe. New technologies,
especially the sudden global acceptance of the Internet, are
changing the ways climbers find and distribute information. The
"Database of Rock Climbs in California" may be an idea ahead of
its time, but not by much.
The "Database of Rock Climbs in California" is available from
Chessler Books, 1-800-654-8502 or 303-670-0093; or E-mail
chesslerbk@aol.com.
-Matt Artz
Photo of the Month
What The?
Be the first to E-mail motherrock@aol.com with the name of the
route and the location, and win a free one year subscription. Yes,
it's a moderate route in Southern California. And yes, if you saw
it in color, those tights she's wearing would make you vomit.
mOthEr rOck #4 Page 11
Brew of the Month
Black Toad Dark Ale:
A Toadily Awesome Brew
by Rob Stauder
There I was, newly arrived to Southern California from the newly
brewly diversified Cincinnati, Ohio. Thirsty wife at home caring
for the new family addition, I was searching for a tasty beer. The
main supermarkets had an even worse selection of good brew than
the most po-dunk of midwest swill mongeries. I began to think
that the Inland Empire was beer deficient, that its beer drinkers
were mudweiser zealots—that taste was relegated to "Tastes
Great!" and "Less Filling!"
Snooping around Trader Joe's, I was impressed by the huge
quantity of cheap libations. I noticed a stack of black six packs
sporting a green and black toad as a logo. I snatched a bottle
from the pack, held it to the light for the darkness test, and was
pleased to see that only a modicum shone through.
Photo: Rob Stauder
Kids of all ages love The Toad.
I had found a dark lager and at $3.99 a six, a possible
substitute for all other liquids except water.
The next months became a blur of toads. Toads after work.
Toads on the weekends. Toads in payment for watching a friend's
cat. Black Toad, with its sharp malty flavor, became the only
brew I brought home to my family. They do not complain but
toadily agree that the Toad has backbone.
Toad not only has taste but has a conservationist ethic. Go
out, buy some, and you're supporting the beer's namesake species
in the Inyo Mountains. What could be better, you ask, than an
affordable, tasty beer with a social conscious? Perhaps a free rack
of Aliens or Camalots? Maybe a fat raise from the boss for
cranking a hard route? An all expense paid voyage to a tropical,
clothing-optional crag for you and your significant other?
Well friends, until these things become a reality, you might
as well head down to Trader Joe's and stock up on some Toads.
Cheers! Take a Toad on the Road!
When not sucking The Toad, Rob Stauder can be reached at
rstauder® esri. com.
January/February 1997
i
Doggin' with the Editor
The editor bouldering in J-Tree. Photo: Darel! Palmer
Help Has Arrived!!!
This month, I'm very pleased to welcome
several new faces to the throngs of
mOthEr rOck:
Reese Martin, who gives us some beta
on some of his favorite coastal climbs,
and gives us the topos for two new,
previously unpublished areas. But wait,
there's more: this is only part one in a
series of three!
Aaron Rough, who shares with us his
experience on Half Dome's Snake Dike,
and will be giving us beta in every issue
in his new column, "Moderately
Moderate." Aaron has also been
developing a new bolted crag featuring
short, moderate sport routes. Look for an
article spilling the beans in Issue #6,
followed by a new mini-guidebook.
Amos Clifford, who gives us the scoop
on the California Ice project (yes, there is
ice climbing in So Cal...).
Fritz Lowrey, who tells us how to get
to the old animal enclosures at the L.A.
Zoo, for synthetic bouldering that is
"Gunks-like. "
Chris Miller, who will be providing
mOthEr rOck readers with updates on his
backyard climbing area (J-Tree), as well as
a few of the billion or so other areas in So
Cal he's been to.
With the help of these great folks and
others, mOthEr rOck is getting better all
the time.
Until Issue #6, climb hard, climb safe, and
most importantly, have FUN!
Matt Artz, Editor
mOthEr rOck@aol com
Letters to the Editor
Dear mOthEr rOck,
I'm anxiously awaiting your next issue
because you address the "fun" or
mOthEr rOck#4
adventurous aspect of climbing better than
anyone in the publishing biz.
Thanks,
-Paul
Dear mOthEr rOck,
Enjoyed your current online edition!
—Charles, Redondo Beach
Just a reminder, you can visit mOthEr
rOck on-line at:
http://members.aol.com/motherrock
E-mail of the Month
Dear mOthEr rOck,
please can u send me climbing routes in
usemitty national park or send me 2 there
site"
—Zaki, Isreal
Tidbits
Yosemite Valley Climber's Clean-
Up, May 30th-June 1st 1997
The sixth annual Yosemite Valley
Climber's Clean-Up is scheduled for May
30 to June 1, 1997 in Yosemite National
Park. For more information contact the
Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides, Box
301, Bass Lake, CA 93604 (Tel.: 209-
658-8735; E-mail: symg@sierranet.net).
Outdoor Climbing Competition to
be Held at High Desert
This competition for intermediate climbers
will be held Saturday, March 30, 1997, at
9:00 a.m. at the High Desert climbing
area near Apple Valley. Contestants will
roam the area and choose from more than a
dozen set routes to climb. To participate,
your onsight ability cannot be more than
5.11a/b, and your redpoint ability cannot
be above 5.12a. For more information
about this competition, contact Natural
High Adventures (Tel.: 818-704-0590; E-
mail naturalhighadventures ©juno.com).
Menifee Access Tenuous
We've recently recieved a couple of E-
mails and phone calls about the landowner
asking climbers to leave the Menifee
bouldering area in Riverside County.
Until this issue is resolved, please respect
the privacy of the landowner. If you really
want to climb in this area, Juniper Flats is
just a couple of miles away and offers a
lot more variety, including the fabulous
Lizard King Hand Crack, 5.10, and the
stunning Lizard King Dihedral, 5.10c.
Page 1
Photo of the Month
Solution
The Photo of the Month in Issue #4
(January/February 1997) was of a lycra-
clad female climber on The Moon,
5.8/5.9, Wallbanger Wall, Devil's
Punchbowl. We received a number of
good guesses, but nobody guessed it
correctly.
southern California's climbing magazine
Publisher
The AMCC Group
Editor
Matt Artz
Recent Contributors
Amos Clifford
Reese Martin
Matt McGunigle
Chris Miller
Aaron Rough
Rob Stauder
Cindy Stigall
Brandon Thau
Todd Vogel
Editorial Advisors
Ruth Artz Bob Goff Steve Harris
Darell Palmer Jannine Senior Geoff Wade
Copyright © 1997 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group. All
rights reserved. mOthEr rOck magazine is published six
times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to climb
somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951,
Redlands, CA, 92375-1151 USA. E-mail:
mOthErrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGroup@aol.com.
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send
a check or money order for $10 to mOthEr rOckfThe
AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-
1151. Subscriptions outside of the United States are $20
annually.
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll
consider it. We're a no budget operation, so send a
SASE if you need your materials back. Photo
submissions also welcome. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com
and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you
have not yet figured that out, you're an idiot and you
should probably stop climbing now before you hurt
yourself and others. And if you think you can bet your
life or safety on anything you read in mOthEr rOck,
think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any
of the information contained in these pages, and cannot
be held responsible in any way for any of your actions,
acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's
the way it should be. You're a climber after all.
On the Cover.
Geoff Wade took this interesting photo of
"Bargain Bob" Goff on a toprope attempt
of Solo Crack, 5.10a, at Kindergarten
Rock, San Bernardino Mountains.
January/February 1997
 Moderately Moderate.

Snake Dike, Half Dome: Something to Remember

by Aaron Rough
I had always wanted to do a major Yosemite formation. I had impressive! So we rest and start off again. Fresh legs carry us
done a couple of routes there-The Nutcracker, Bishop's Terrace, up the path with a spring and we soon overshoot our turn off.
Crest Jewel on North Dome—but never once had I set foot on a Some thrashing and backtracking sets us right again, and soon
Big Dog. You know, Half Dome, El Cap, Sentinel, Washington we're following a trail of cairns up through the bushy lower slabs
Column, or any Cathedral. I had never had the balls to do a to the base of our chosen route.
Grade V, let alone a Grade VI. So my options of getting up one After what seems like forever, we finally get to the base,
of these behemoths was limited. scrapped up from thrashing through manzanita. The climb looks
As a frequent "rec.climing" Internet junkie, it seemed that at very impressive, and it's easy to figure out why they named it
least once a week someone posted a beta request for Snake Dike, Snake Dike. A raised vertical dike system runs the entire length
5.7 R, on Half Dome. Through time, this started to peak my of the shoulder, snaking it's way left and right to the top. A
interest. So I dusted off the cover of the Yosemite Free Climbs huge cairn marks our start and soon we are ready to go. I take the
guide and thumbed through to the topo. From that alone, I first pitch, a nice crack that leads to a runout face friction traverse
started getting excited. Ten pitches, only two rated 5.7, mostly left to a nice crack and our first belay 200 feet up.
bolted, albeit with great distances between them, and a description
that says, "a phenomenal passage on a grand monolith," sounded
right up my alley! But then I read on; "there may be long
runouts, but it is on relatively easy rock" that started to make me
think. I read about the approach and was startled to find out it is
a 7.5 mile hike to the base that involves some exposed
scrambling and then a whomping 8.8 mile hike back out. A
little bit of mental calculations and I knew it would be a full day
of hiking and climbing. I had better pick my partners carefully.
Matt Morris should do-he's fairly new to climbing, but is
climbing trad 5.9's and sports 5.10's, not to mention that he's an
ex-marathon runner, which should come in handy on the brutal
hikes. Eric Husbands, an NCO in the Army, climbs really
strong and could swap out leads with me since Matt hasn't really
done any leading. All it would take is some phone calls, some
begging, and some pleading to my wife and I just might have
that first coveted Big Dog under my belt! I arrange it all and the
next thing I know, we're speeding in Matt's 4-runner at 60 m.p.h.
around corners rated for 20 m.p.h. It's Sunday night, the day
before Labor Day, at 4:00 a.m. and we were almost there. Soon
after arriving, we have a brief, but exciting, encounter with a bear
at Upper Pines Campground. Not long after that, we find a
parking spot along the main road and crash.
6 a.m. rolls around pretty early and I, being wired on
caffeine, haven't slept a wink. Matt and Eric are comatose and
only unintelligible moans and grunts come from their resting
spots when the alarm sounds. After badgering and yelling, they
finally wake and soon the discussion turns from caffeine and
donuts to more serious stuff. It's crunch time: do we do it, or do
we wuss out and opt for short one or two pitch climbs around the
Valley floor? Well, I'm all for Half Dome and I finally win the
two over. A brief time was spent sorting gear, racking up, and
general confusion, before we were ready to roll at 7 a.m. The
plan was to hike in with nothing extra, not even packs; we climb
with everything we take and hike down as soon as" possible after
we summit. Ready; Break!
Off go the three intrepid climbers. The first few miles roll Photo: Aaron Rough Collection
by in a blur. The views of the recent rock slide are impressive,
Aaron Rough at the bottom of the first pitch.
and the dust-caked trees are a sight to see. After a brief struggle
with some switchbacks, we were soon at the top of Nevada Falls. Matt is designated to be in the middle, with Eric and I
What a view! Half Dome is easily identifiable and we can just see swapping leads. I feel good after the first pitch and soon we're all
where our route is on the southwest shoulder, and it looks

mOthEr rOck#5 Page 2 March/April 1997

hanging out at the belay. Next, Eric has a traverse right to a bolt
then up to a belay.
We think stringing the second and third pitches together may
be possible, but Eric can't see the next belay beyond his so he
sets up. Matt and I follow and we've knocked off the easy first
and second pitches. From here, I go friction left pass a bolt then
to a bolted belay but pass this up to a belay about what seems to
be 20 or 30 feet higher up the dike. I start out and can't find the
bolt. Later I would see it, but only after I was too far away to
clip. Ihit the belay 30 feet out, and with a fast clip to safety, I
start up the dike. Well, our initial judgment was wrong, way
wrong! It's about 60 feet to the next belay and I go with no pro
on solid 5.6 climbing to the stance. Eric and Matt seemed much
more relieved than I when I finally clipped in.
;. _,
I •
Photo: Aaron Rough Collection
Matt Morris on the third pitch.
I guess you get detached from it while leading, but when
belaying, you're forced to watch your partner move farther and
farther from safety and deeper into the danger zone. Matt and Eric
soon follow up to the marginal belay, with two bolts and no
ledge. With Matt and I bumping elbows, Eric heads up a short
60 foot pitch to the next belay. While it was only 5.5, once
again there was no pro the entire length. I start off on the fifth
pitch, and have a nice easy 5.4 pitch with a bolt down low but a
mOthEr rOck #5
huge runout to the anchors. The sixth pitch is 5.6, with a bolt
right near the top of the pitch. It runs up the largest and most
prominent part of the dike system and by now the views and
exposure are awesome! Eric and I can see across the valley to the
route we did on North Dome. Up valley, the headwall of El Cap
rears its head and Glacier Apron is spread out beneath us. With a
couple of slung horns and some serious sweating, Eric's soon at
the belay.
Pitch seven is an easy 5.2 pitch up the dike to our first big
belay edge. Pitch eight is a short 5.2 face that is super easy
friction but no pro the entire length. Pitch nine runs up a small
flake and over a small roof to put you in a huge crack for the
final belay. Pitch ten is really the never ending pitch: more than
1,000 vertical feet of second to third class friction climbing to the
top. We stayed roped up for the death slog to the top and had to
take several breaks, as the long hike and climb soon started
taking it's toll on our bodies.
When we finally got to the top, the first item of concern was
getting our shoes off! After that, some mandatory summit
photos and the usual "you're crazy for climbing" comments from
the assembled tourists. But what I thought was rather ironic, I
was more scared going down the cable route then any point of
climb on the way up! At 6 p.m., we finally were off of Half
Dome and were faced with the torturous 8.8 mile hike straight
down hill to the truck so many thousands of feet below us. We
knew two hours wouldn't be enough to make it all the way down
but we didn't want to waste any time and soon dust was flying.
Darkness caught up with us about three miles out. Our
progress was slowed even more by light-challenged tourists
stumbling their way down the trail. I'll admit, even by headlamp
light, things weren't that easy and our pace slowed tremendously.
After what seemed like eternity, we hit the valley floor and had
the .6 mile hike from Happy Isle to the truck. Never has .6
miles taken so long! But at 9 p.m., we made it. Tired and
battered, we threw the gear into the back of the truck and left.
mrnmsimmmt^nKjJUfti-^ix',
, • m - """.- "^*v
•;••" ': >,."_ 'iA ,,. <*•
V
Photo: Aaron Rough Collection
Aaron Rough and the mess at the hanging belay.
So after 14 hours of solid physical exertion, I had bagged my
first major Yosemite climb—my first Big Dog! Matt and Eric
agreed to drive back as I had driven there, so I was soon crashed in
the back. I remember a brief off-roading episode when someone
fell asleep at the wheel and a short blurry pit stop for gas and
Taco Bell grub. At 5 a.m. Tuesday morning, we rolled into
lovely San Bernardino. I don't know how we made it alive but,
we did! I crashed and had three hours to sleep before I had to be
Page 3 March/April 1997
to school and a major biology exam at 9:30 a.m. sharp. Two
years from now, I won't be able to remember the grade I got on
that test, but for the rest of my life, I'll remember the incredible
feeling I had when me and two of my friends stood on top of one
of largest and most beautiful pieces of granite in the world.
Aaron Rough lives in Highland, CA. This is the first
installment of "Moderately Moderate," a bi-monthly column he'll
be writing for mOthEr rOck.
Local Updates
Eastern Sierra Update
by Todd Vogel
Heavy winters don't always mean cold; this one's been really
mild, and that means the climbing has been good. Except for a
couple of days the Buttermilk Boulders have been accessible all
winter. All that rain didn't do the road to the boulders any good
though, don't be taking mom's new sedan out there...
Camel Canyon Boulders
The Camel Canyon Boulders (AKA Boulder Farm, AKA Happy
Boulders, AKA Chalk Bluffs) continue to see quite a bit of
traffic, and for good reason. It can be 25 degrees and blowing
snow in Mammoth lakes and 70 degrees and calm at the boulders,
a mere 35 minutes away. Somewhat of a cross between the
Buttermilk and Deadman's Summit bouldering areas, Camel
Canyon features sharp pockets on not so steep to very steep
welded tuff boulders. With an amazing abundance of problems of
all difficulty levels, it seems to be sprouting a fine crop of sit-on-
the-ground-to-start problems. If your fingers are still coming out
of their winter "soft season" don't count on spending more than a
couple of hours at Camel Canyon; welded tuff is just a step away
from glass.
Take it Easy on the Environment
A major concern at these, and many other bouldering areas, is the
concentrated environmental impacts that climbers bring with
them to the rocks. Bouldering areas tend to develop networks of
braided trails heading in all directions, and a zone around each
boulder that is denuded of vegetation. In arid environments like
the Owens Valley, it's critical to stay on the well-travelled path;
if they don't get smushed, those plants that look dead in the
winter will be springing back to life shortly.
The Owens River Gorge Anchor Project
Oh yeah, the Gorge...While the climbing has been great, most of
the news from the Owens River Gorge has more to do with
maintenance than climbing. Official permission has been granted
to build a couple of outhouses in the Gorge. Now, if only they'd
get built...Anchor replacement continues to be a big chore for
local crag custodians. Local opinion seems to be swinging from
open anchor systems, like cold shuts, towards fixed anchors
which last longer and which are easier to replace when they do
start to wear. Anchors on popular gorge routes have been
wearing out in as little as three months. Multiply this times 500
routes, three anchors each, and you start to get a feel for the
magnitude of the problem. If you climb in the Gorge, perhaps
you'd like to contribute to the anchor maintenance fund at
Wilson's Eastside Sports, in Bishop (Tel: 619-873-7520; E-mail:
wilsons@telis.org).
mOthEr rOck #5
Lee Vining Ice in Full Form
The real climbing news from the Eastern Sierra is ice climbing in
Lee Vining Canyon. The heavy rains at New Years took away
most of the ice...which then grew back bigger than anyone can
remember seeing in 25 years. Ice climbs up to four pitches in
length have been done, and former thin-ice desperates are in fat
city conditions. One spectacular new route really stands out:
Candlestick Park, climbed in Mid-January by Greg Corliss and
Andy Sellers, features two vertical to slightly more than vertical
pitches on thin pillars. Shortly after completing the second
ascent, Richard Leversee proclaimed the second pitch to be "the
best ice pitch in California." Located on the sunny side of the
canyon, Candlestick Park will probably not wait around too long.
Local Events
The Best of the Banff Mountain Film Festival returns to Bishop
this year with more films and associated events than ever before.
It's being held Friday night and Saturday night, March 28-29. In
conjunction with the film festival, local guides are again offering
their "mountain mentor" series, clinics, and courses related to
mountain sports, all at "fire sale" prices. Wilson's Eastside
Sports is holding their annual rock shoe demo that weekend as
well (Tel: 619-873-7520; E-mail: wilsons@telis.org).
Todd Vogel operates a guide service in Bishop, CA. He can be
reached at toddvogel@aol.com.
New Jack City
New Desert Area Boasts More than 50 Hard
Sport Routes; Much Potential for Moderates
by Matt Artz
The local desert has seen a lot of action as climbers race to
develop a number of new sport climbs at "New Jack City."
Located near the desert town of Barstow, the site is also known to
some by the name "Stoddard Valley."
"The climbing is fun, against long odds," notes Reed
Bartlett. "The area is heavily used by many off-road enthusiasts
and local beer drinkers. The bases of crags near the dirt roads are
littered with broken bottles. I think the local adage must be
'slam the beer then buck the bottle at full velocity against the
rock and try to get the biggest dispersion of shards.'
Nonetheless, the climbing is overhanging and quite fun. There
are almost no 5.10s, and nothing easier than that. The route
activity has been aimed at 5.11s and 5.12s, of which there are
about fifty." He also notes that there is tremendous potential for
moderate routes at New Jack City, but that the people
responsible for developing the site are not interested in putting
up routes in the easy/moderate range.
"We decided to do The Raven, 5.lib (?)," said Aaron Rough
after a recent visit to New jack City. "It hasn't really had a
confirmed rating yet. It's 12 bolts long, has a long overhang and
gets pretty runout near the top. It was great, but overall, most of
it is on really friable rock. Maybe it will clean up as it sees
more activity. "
While New Jack City has yet to be written up in any
magazines or guidebooks, Troy Mayr has been making topos and
collecting information to include in a new guidebook. Added
Rough, "I got a peek at the new guide and there are SO many
new routes out there, it's incredible!"
Page 4 March/April 1997
 Selected Central Coast Climbing
Part One: Ventura, Ojai and the Sespe
by Reese
The coastal counties north of the L.A. basin offer a suprising
wealth of rock with superb climbs and bouldering. Most of the
climbing is near the coast, where the mellowing effects of Pacific
Ocean marine air make climbing a year-round reality. Climb in
the sun wearing shorts and tank top in January, instead of
freezing your butt off flapping in the desert winds. In the
summer the ocean air keeps it cool, instead of the inland bake
fests. Most of the climbing is on sandstone, with volcanic
breccia dominating the Santa Monica Mountains. The quality of
the stone is excellent. Some of my most wonderful climbing
experiences have been here.
If you want variety, everything from radical overhanging
routes to multi-pitch low-angle slabs, without the crowds of
climbers that have come to plague most Southern California
crags, this is the place. I've lived in Ojai and Ventura for the
past 14 years and have never tired of local climbing. We've
surfed in the morning, gone cragging in the Sespe, and made it
down to the beach to watch the sunset over the Pacific. Summer
evenings after work have often found me bouldering tricky
sandstone.
Ojai is less than an hour and a half from downtown L.A. To
get there, just follow the Ventura Freeway (Highway 101) west
towards Santa Barbara. Once in Ventura, take Highway 33 north
out of Ventura for 15 miles to Ojai.
I have listed just some of the climbing areas starting at the
ocean in Ventura and working inland toward Ojai and the Sespe.
For a more detailed description of climbing possibilities, refer to
Climbing in Santa Barbara, Ventura & San Luis Obispo by
Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele, Lorraine Press, 1994. A new
bouldering guide to Ventura and Santa Barbara by Wills Young
and Steve Edwards is expected soon.
Ventura River Wall. In it's heyday, this was the finest
freeway glue-up wall in California. It is no more. On December
2, 1995, a loaded gasoline tanker crashed on the freeway ramp
above, spilling 8,000 gallons of gas onto the walls below. The
raging inferno turned the wall into a smoking ruin. The heat
from the fire flaked big sections of concrete, and melted & cooked
many of the holds. The ruins that remain are still worth a stop.
This wall was started in the early 80's by several Chouinard
Equipment employees as a low key lunch time finger endurance
training spot. Within five years it had grown to more than
1,500+ feet of traversing on 5 separate walls, featuring bizarre
moves with long reaches. This is the only place I've ever been
able to do moves Lynn Hill couldn't—she just wasn't tall enough
to make the reach.
The Ventura River Wall is located under Highway 101, at the
Ventura River in Ventura. Park at the lot by the bike path, or at
Patagonia, near where Main Street crosses the river going north
out of town. Walk towards the ocean on the bike path and you
will see the concrete panels.
Ojai Valley. The air of this idyllic valley is rich with the
scent of orange blossoms and jasmine. The Ojai Valley is a
magical place, sacred to Chumash Indians. Ojai was the Valley
of "Shangri-la" where no one grew old in the 1938 movie Lost
mOthEr rOck#5
Martin
Horizon with Ronald Coleman. You will find the climbing in
Ojai magic, too: mostly moderate face routes and boulders.
Foothill Crag, AKA "The Foot." The Foot is located
just outside of Ojai at the very northern end of Foothill Road in
Pratt Canyon. This crag gets shade most of the afternoon, so it
is a good summer spot. The crag is a gritty sandstone 50' to 80'
tall, featuring high quality face routes and crack climbs.
Protected for the most part by 3/8" bolts, the climbs can be led,
or easily toproped. The fifteen routes here are ideal for the
mOthEr rOck reader.
When I first moved to Ojai, Yvon Chouinard told me there
was a good sized cliff above Ojai he'd visited in the mid-60's, but
in his usual way was vague about the location. In the winter of
1986 I tore tendons in my hand at Joshua Tree. I had stupidly
grabbed a sling during a fall trying to finish a lead in the rain.
My doctor told me to take six months off from serious climbing
to let my hand heal. It was during that recovery time we put up
most of the routes at The Foot. Then it only took a couple of
evenings exploring the hills after work to find Foothill Crag.
None of my climbing partners would believe that there was a cliff
of decent rock 80' tall in Ojai, they would rather just go to Josh
on the weekends. I ended up doing most of the climbs roped
solo, in traditional ground-up style. I'd worked out a self-belay
system using a jumar. I'd tie the rope off to a tree at the base of
the cliff, then pay out some rope through a jumar clipped to my
harness, climb up, clip a piece and repeat the process at each
protection point. This method worked pretty well for the first
few routes, but it was slow going. Each evening I'd dash up to
the cliff to work on a route, climb up to my previous high point
and bang away with hammer and hand drill. Usually I'd only get
one or two bolts drilled before it got dark. After doing a couple
of routes this way I was getting fairly confident of this system,
actually kinda cocky. I'd not fallen yet.
Placing bolts on the lead in traditional style is hard on your
feet. You climb up to a stance where you can hopefully hang out
for the 10 to 15 minutes it takes to drill the hole and place the
bolt. To place the bolt, you have to balance with no hands while
you pull out the drill and hammer, reach as high as you
comfortably can, and start tapping away. This can get spooky,
particularly if the footholds you are standing on aren't that great.
After a few minutes your feet start to scream, then they go numb.
You constantly have to shift your weight from one foot to the
other to relieve the pain.
This is the situation I found myself in while drilling the
second bolt on From The Ashes, 5.10b. While changing out a
dull drill bit for a nice sharp one, I shifted my weight to rest my
foot, lost my balance, and tipped over backwards. I went head
first for the deck. The fall wasn't far, fifteen feet at the most.
With the slack in my self-belay system my head stopped just
inches from a boulder at the base of the climb. As I hung there,
upside down, hyper-ventilating, I realized I just about killed
myself.
Since that day I have not used a solo self-belay system.
The "must-do" climbs to do at Foothill Crag include
Ruthless Poodles, a tricky 5.10a bolt protected face climb, Moon
Page 5 March/April 1997
Doggies, 5.8, and From the Ashes, 5.10b. For something a bit
harder, go Chummin' for Splatter, 5.lib.
To get there, drive to downtown Ojai, turn left off Highway
150 (Ojai Avenue) at Signal Street, go up the hill past the jog at
Grand Avenue to a left at the Los Padres National Forest sign
(across from 203 N. Signal), and follow the road a couple of
hundred yards to the Pratt/Foothill trailhead. A pleasant 15 to 20
minute walk up the trail along the creek bed will bring you to
National Forest land. Continue a few hundred more yards until a
side trail branches off right. Take this trail for 100 yards to the
base of the crag. Watch for poison oak near the base of the wall.
Potrero John Wall
Sespe—Ventura County. Highway 33—34 miles to Ventura
80'
© Reese Martin
Jan. 1997
Potrero John Wall-Highway 33 East of Ojai
A. El Potrero, 5.9 R. 50 feet, no protection. This route
is generally toproped.
B. Zyzzxx, 5.8. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 50
feet. 1 ::
C. Pro Job, 5.9+. Three bolts, two cold shut anchor,
60 feet. Connects to Miccis at second bolt.
D. Micccis, 5.9 **. Four bolts, two cold shut anchor, 60
feet.
E. Menage a Trois, 5.10b ***. Four bolts, stoppers, two
cold shut anchor, 80 feet. FA: Henry Barber and
Yvon Chouinard, 1976. Variation: start left of
climb, connect at second bolt.
F. Rubber Man, 5.10+ **. Five bolts, two cold shut
anchor, 70 feet.
G. Beginnings, 5.4. Gear, 40 feet.
Note: This crag was retro-bolted by parties unknown in 1995
with 3/8" bolts and cold shut anchors added.
Thacher School, Ojai. The hill behind the school has a
great supply of twenty-plus sandstone boulders. Thacher School
mOthEr rOck #5
is in the east end of the Ojai Valley. Climbers are welcome,
chalk is not. There are a few short toprope problems in the 5.10
range here. Once through the entrance to Thacher School stay
right follow the signs to the Gymkhama field, and park. The
boulders are on the small ridge to the East of the fields. The area
isn't well documented, but that's part of the charm. I recommend
starting at the Jameson plaque boulder. Have fun exploring.
Highway 33. Recently in Matilija Canyon, the narrow
winding canyon at the "twin tunnels" known as Wheeler Gorge
has become a sport climbing area. The climbing is right off the
road, seven miles east of Ojai along Highway 33. There are now
more than twenty-five bolted routes, the difficulty ranging from
5.9 to 5.12+. The climbing is face moves on steep and slightly
overhanging sandstone, conglomerate, and solid shale. The
twisting canyon is a beautiful and unique place to spend the day.
All of the climbing is within a three minute walk of the road.
The topos are a mOthEr rOck exclusive.
As an introduction to Wheeler Gorge you cannot do better
than Ezra, 5.9. This route offers a short romp up a buttress
featuring shallow pockets and slippery rounded footholds.
Technical footwork is a necessity. Just across the creek on the
steep sandstone slabs, the well-bolted Exodus, 5.1 la, and Blush,
5.11 a, are must-dos. The black rock next to the bridge has the
first climb to go in the area, Stu Boy, 5.9, with the tricky
Danger Boy, 5.lib, and Velocity Boy, 5.lib, just to the right.
These three climbs are good ones to get action photos of from the
bridge.
During the heavy rains in January 1997, a big chunk of
Monstrosity, 5.11+, collapsed. The initial pillar is now gone,
leaving no climb for the first 30 feet. Currently the route cannot
be lead, but is toprope-able. While you are there, be sure to try
bouldering the Trout Farm Traverse.
Black Canyon of the Sespe. The historic Sespe Wall offers
multi-pitch routes up to 300 feet. The sandstone slab that makes
up the wall is broken with numerous crack systems. None of the
routes on the wall is particularly difficult, making it an ideal
place for the beginning leader to practice their craft. All the
routes are easily protectable with stoppers, wired nuts and cams.
There are no bolts on this wall.
Easily the most popular route on the wall is The Tree Line,
5.5, a leftward trending crack system with several stout pine trees
growing out of the crack for belay stations. This route is a
wonderful choice for your first multi-pitch lead. The Ending
Crack, 5.7, is one of the finest easy multi-pitch face climbs in
Southern California. The climb goes straight up a face crack till
it finally ends and there are some moderate face moves (5.7). To
make a longer and more interesting climb, most parties make a
short traverse right (5.6) where the crack ends. Gain another
crack system and then climb up to the top of The Tree Line. I
love The Ending Crack, having personally climbed it more than a
hundred times. The moves are interesting and sometimes
balancy, though never easy, it's never that hard. To train for
long alpine routes, I've soloed The Ending Crack, then down-
climbed The Tree Route, logging as many as seven laps in a
session without setting foot on the ground.
Some of the other routes worth doing include McTavish,
5.6, and Hangin' Around, 5.5, both of which have wild moves
through roofs. The Wasp, 5.8, is fun, and a bit harder is The
Sting, 5.10, with cranky jams through a roof to the slab above.
Edge of Night, 5.7, follows the left edge of a gully at the far
Page 6 March/April 1997
right end of the wall. The climb is airy and exhilarating, though
somewhat runout.
The Sespe Wall is located 17 miles out of Ojai on Highway
33. Park directly across the creek from the obvious large wall.
The approach is casual: one minute. During high water, crossing
the creek may be tricky, and portions of the base of the wall may
be wet or underwater.
Wheeler Gorge "Narrows
Highway 33—7 miles East
of Ojai, CA
H anchor, 40 feet. FA: Edwards, Arvin Gunta, 1996. Boulder
I 1 sandstone
G J .,
K/ V hangers. FA: Edwards, Arvin, 1996.
black
conglomerate V
Potero John Wall. A half mile beyond the Sespe Wall is a
group of rock slabs on the south side of the road. The eighty- L. Slacker Dihedral, 5.8. Solo. FA: Gould, 1995.
foot-high blank wall at the far left is Potero John Wall. To the M-. Unnamed, 5.lib *. Seven bolts , two cold shut anchor, 50
right and uphill a bit is a group of large triangular slabs,
collectively known as The Fortress. There was some climbing
done on the Fortress in the late 60's and early 80's. These slabs
are essentially undeveloped. The Fortress offers excellent
potential for new moderate pitches.
In 1995 Potero John Wall was retro-bolted with fat 3/8"
bolts and additional anchors were added. This turned what had
been a collection of runout 1/4" spinner horror-shows, into a
friendly and fun place for the mOthEr rOck climber. All five
bolted routes are worthwhile. When you climb the insecure,
tricky seam in the middle of the face, Menage a Trois, 5.1 Ob,
remember the route was first climbed in EB's and protected only
by wired stoppers in 1976 by "Hot" Henry Barber and Yvon
Chouinard. The bolts appeared recently. After your day of
climbing be sure to check out the numerous swimming holes
nearby. There is a great barefoot boulder traverse over the big
pool 200 yards upstream. Fall off and you're wet.
Reese Martin is a longtime climber living in Ventura, California.
He is rumored to be exploring several new climbing areas along V. Danger Boy, 5.Ha.**. Seven bolts to two cold shuts
the Central Coast. This is the first in a series of articles for
mOthEr rOck about Central Coast Climbing. Contact Reese by
E-mail at reese3@fishnet.net, or phone him at 805-643-2422..
mOthEr rOck#5
Wheeler Gorge--"Narrows"
A. Monstrosity, 5.11+. Eleven bolts, three bolt anchor, 110
feet. Bolted & toproped by Reese Martin, 1995. Additional
bolts & RP' by Steve Edwards & Arvin Gunta, 1996. First
30 feet collapsed January 1997.
B. Project, 5.11+/I2b. Three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Right of
Monstrosity. FTR: Reese Martin, 1995.
Unnamed Arete, 5.9 *. 70 feet. Finishes at anchors for
D. Gould project.
D. Unnamed, 5.12b ***, Nine bolts, two cold shut anchor, 75
feet. FA: Gould & Tony Agulara, 1995. Wooden portaledge
at base. Tricky clipping.
Aquaphobia--Boulder problems: Traverse above pools: L
to R, 5.12; R to L, 5.10a. FA: Edwards, Gould, 1996.
. Unnamed, 5.12a (5.10, AO). Four bolts, two cold shut
problem start.
. Arvin's Rig, 5.10a Four bolts, one cold shut anchor, no
u. Ezra, 5.9+**. Four bolts, two cold shut anchor, 45 feet.
FA: Gould & Agulara, 1994.
Boulder Problems Under Bridge. Pockets, 5.10/11+.
A-Frame Roof. Toprope by Gould. 5.9, slab above, 5.10.
Project.
Exodus, 5.11a ***. Eight bolts to chain anchor, 80 feet
FA: Gould & Agulara, 1995. Quality. Variation: 5.1 Ob R,
go straight up from fourth bolt. :
I. Blush, 5.1 la***. Five bolts, two cold shut anchor, 60 feet.
FA: Gould & Agulara, 1995.
J. Slab to single leeper bolt. 5.9 R? FA: Unknown, 1980's?
K. Roadside Distraction, 5.12b/c. Project. Gould &
Agulara.
feet. FA: Arvin, Edwards, 1996.
Nf. Unnamed, 5.1 la *. Five bolts , two cold shut anchor, 50
feet. FA: Arvin, Edwards, 1996.
O. Unnamed, 5.10. Five bolts , two cold shut anchor, 60 feet.
FA: Louie Anderson, Fall 1996.
P. Unnamed, 5110. Five bolts , two cold shut anchor, 60 feet.
FA: Louie Anderson, Fall 1996.
Q. South of the Trout Farm, 5.9. Five bolts, two cold
shut anchor, 45'. FA: Gould (solo), Gould & Agulara, 1996.
R. Trout Farm, 5.12+. Toprope, 45 feet. Right of South
of the Trout Farm. FA: Gould & Agulara, 1996.
Trout Farm boulder traverse, 5.lie. Stay low. High
variation: 5.10.
S. Scorpion Surprise, 5.9. Vertical pod. Single bolt
anchor. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996. Scorpions!!
T. Fearless Hyena, 5.10a. Five bolts. Project. Gould &
Agulara, 1996.
U. Stu Boy, 5.9. Seven bolts to two bolt anchor. FA: Stu
Ruckman, 1993. Variation: 5.lib; stay right of bolts
through roof & face.
FA: Gould, Agulara & Brannon 1995.
W. Velocity Boy, 5.lib **. Seven bolts to two cold shuts
FA: Gould, Agulara & Brannon 1995. .-;.-:
X. The Chimney, 5.2. Unknown. Variation: 5.10 finish on
last three bolts of Velocity Boy. i..
Page 7 March/April 1997

mOthEr rOck Interview
Randy Vogel, Southern California Regional
Coordinator, The Access Fund
by Matt Artz
If you climb in Southern California, you know his name. The
author of several well-known guidebooks including the Joshua
Tree "bible," Randy has also been very active in protecting
climbers' rights and local climbing areas while serving as the So
Cal Regional Coordinator for The Access Fund. mOthEr rOck
recently got a chance to ask Randy about the state of access
issues in So Cal.
mOthEr rOck: Randy, how did you first get involved with
The Access Fund?
Randy Vogel: In 1983 I became a member of the Access
Committee of the American Alpine Club (AAC) which was
headed by Armando Menocal, a precursor organization to the
Access Fund. John Wedberg, myself and several other members
of the So Cal Section of the AAC started an Access Fund;"
literally a separate bank account fund set up for the then overly
lofty goals of preserving climbing access by having money to
pay for land purchases, trail projects, brochures, etc. So. Cal
Section members generously contributed several thousands of
dollars. All this was done without any actual knowledge of the
national AAC.
Around 1988/1989, the Access Committee of the AAC was
actively raising money as the "AAC Access Fund," a spin off of
the original bank account started by the So. Cal Section. By
1989/90, Armando, myself, Rick Accomazzo, and a few other
members of the Access Committee convinced other members to
split off from the AAC and become an independent non-profit tax
exempt organization. I was one of the original officers and
directors of the Access Fund.
Currently, I am So Cal Regional Coordinator (but am
looking for a replacement; any takers?).
mOthEr: On a scale of one to ten, how would you rate access
in So Cal? Is it generally a problem, an infrequent problem, or a
relative non-issue?
Randy: About a 5—a regular, but barely manageable problem.
However, access in So Cal has the potential to be a real
nightmare. Both the BLM and USFS are proposing banning of
all fixed anchors in wilderness areas, and there has been a
movement by some groups to ban fixed anchors in NFS
wilderness. This would include: Tahquitz & Suicide, 83% of
Joshua Tree, as well as several other climbing areas in So. Cal.
mOthEr: In addition to joining The Access Fund, what else can
local climbers do to get involved in preserving access to So Cal
areas?
Randy: To get involved, there are several things you can do:
1. Write to your congessman/senators protesting the proposed
BLM and USFS regulations to ban fixed anchors. See the Access
Fund literature on this issue for more info.
2. Volunteer time or talents to local access projects: E-mail,
phone, or write for being contacted on issues that arise.
mOthEr rOck #5
3. Right now, there has been a move in the local (So Cal and
Nevada) Sierra Club Conservation Committee to adopt a policy
that will support a total ban on bolts and removal of all existing
bolts at Joshua Tree National Park. Climbers who are Sierra
Club Members should write the national office citing their
concern about such an ill thought out policy that is neither
supportable based upon resource impacts and will do little but
cause the many climbers who are dedicated environmentalists to
be alienated from the Sierra Club. Stress that climbers are
amenable to Park Service management of bolts and possible
restrictions on use, placement, etc.
4. Write to Joshua Tree National Park and request to be added to
the Park's mailing list to receive a copy of the Draft Backcountry
Management Plan that is set to be released for public comment
late Spring, 1997. Written comments will be important as it is
expected that the Draft Plan will be anti-climber oriented. Write
(a postcard is fine) to: Joshua Tree National Park 74485, National
Monument Drive, 29 Palms, California 92277. Request to
receive a copy of the Backcountry Management Plan Draft when
released for comment.
mOthEr: If a local climber knows of an area with access
problems, what are the steps he or she should take?
Randy: Contact the Access Fund's National Office at 303-545-
6772 (accessfund@aol.com), or the regional Access Fund
Coordinator (Southern California: Randy Vogel, E-mail:
RKVOGEL@AOL.COM; San Diego area: Mike Brown, phone:
619-743-2928).
mOthEr: In what capacity are you currently serving The Access
Fund?
Randy: Currently, I am the So Cal regional coordinator, but I
am looking for someone to take over much of my job.
mOthEr: What would you consider to be the biggest wins—and
losses—in the access battle in So Cal over the last few years?
Randy: The reopening of Echo Cliffs in the Santa Monica
Mountains last year was a great success, with many local
climbers contributing time and effort. Incorporating a bolting-
neutral policy in the San Jacinto Wilderness Area Wilderness
Plan (covering Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks) was also a success in
working with a group of concerned citizens, environmentalists
and US Forest Service personnel on a total wilderness plan.
Joshua Tree has been a mixed bag: In the past, we had
excellent relations with Park Management. Climbers sponsored
several Park-wide trash clean-ups, built toilets at Echo, Hall of
Horrors, and Wonderland Ranch parking areas, paid for trail signs
at several highly impacted climbing spots in the park, etc.
Climbers were instrumental in killing a planned Loop Road
project in the Park, which would have been an environmental
disaster.
In recent years, matters have been grim. A bolting ban in
wilderness, little progress on a reasonable Backcountry
Management Plan..and an anti-climber posture of many top Park
managers.
mOthEr: Do you know anything about Rubio Canyon, a site
in the San Gabriel Mountains on Forest Service land? There's a
little bit of climbing up there, pretty limited, but interesting.
The area is technically closed by the Forest Service because the
PageS March/April 1997
trail in is unmaintained and in poor shape, but the trail does see a
lot of use by hikers and a little by climbers.
Randy: No, but this might be an area that climbers could show
their willingness to work hard and build good relations and trust
to open the area.
mOthEr: What about the Mt. Baldy Bouldering Area, where I
think you used to climb back in the 1970's? I hear that the
majority of the boulders are off limits now because the property
owners are chasing people off.
Randy: That is my information as well. If someone was
interested in working on seeing if anything might be done, there
are several things that could be done:
1. Get a copy of a land tract map showing private and public
parcels along the creek bed.
2. Depending on the results of this, either find legal access routes
to public land, or seek to gain permission of affected landowners.
The latter course is possible, but would require work, first of
which is finding out what the owners concerns are...
mOthEr: Is The Access Fund at all involved in trying to
reopen the Deadman's Point area at High Desert, which is on
private property and is now closed to public access?
Randy: No. Several people contacted me about the closure. I
asked for them to do some research to find out who the owner
was and research the ownership of surrounding areas. If the land is
privately owned and the owner does not want to allow access, in
this case, there may be nothing to do (short of buying the affected
land). Climbing has not occurred long enough on the land for any
prescriptive easement rights to have vested in climbers/public.
mOthEr: What is The Access Fund currently doing out in
Joshua Tree?
Randy: The Access Fund and Friends of Joshua Tree have been
working with the National Park Service and other groups by
being involved in the Backcountry Management Plan which will
replace the current Climbing Management Plan and determine
bolting and other issues in wilderness and non-wilderness areas.
("Backcountry" is anything more than about 100 yards off road or
out of a campground.) A draft of the Plan is supposed to be
released for public comment this Spring. Climbers should write
to the Park to request copy of the draft plan NOW. (See address
above) There is concern that the Draft Plan will be distinctly anti-
climbing and anti-fixed anchor.
mOthEr: What about the climbing areas in your early
guidebook, "The Hunks Guide to Orange County?" I imagine
many of those areas have been impacted by development?
Randy: Some yes, but surprisingly, most have been unaffected.
Buffalo Chip in Irvine looks to be the most likely to be graded
over (but I am unsure of what plans have been made for
development). Many areas in the Hunk Guide deserve the
obscurity they currently enjoy. There is one new crag in Orange
County with a few good sport routes.
mOthEr: Are there any other important access issues that you'd
like to bring up?
Randy: Nationally, there are tons of access issues. Locally,
climbers need to restart talks to fix and build a trail to Mt.
Williamson and install a composting toilet. Trail maintenance/
mOthEr rOck #5
construction at Tahquitz is another project needing persons
wanting to get involved.
mOthEr: Thanks, Randy, for sharing this information with the
readers of mOthEr rOck/
Access Update
Deep Creek Narrows Ownership Resolved
by Matt Artz
Located in the San Bernardino Mountains near Running Springs,
Deep Creek Narrows is a popular beginner/intermediate climbing
area in a beautiful setting next to a stream. Deep Creek is one of
the oldest climbing areas in the San Bernardino Mountains,
having been a training area for the Sierra Club Rock Climbing
Section. Royal Robbins also frequented the area in his early
climbing days. Many of the dozen or more routes at Deep Creek
were developed in the 1970's by locals Steve Untch, who died in
an accident on K2 in July of 1994 while trying to save another
climber, and Aaron Barnes. Many locals feel that although fairly
easy (5.8), the mega-classic "Open Book"-in which you rappel
down about 40 feet to a ledge positioned about 30 feet above a
deep pool of water, then climb the open book back out—is one of
the classic climbs in the San Bernardino mountain range.
f
Photo: Matt Artz
Into the void: Barrel Palmer gets ready to rappel down to the start of
the classic "Open Book," Deep Creek Narrows..
Ownership and access have long been concerns at Deep Creek
Narrows, but not nearly as big a concern as the loads of litter
desposited by "partiers" and an adjacent manufacturing company.
For the last few years Pete Mack, head of the Rim of the World
Climbing Club (ROWCC) Conservation Committee, has
spearheaded an effort to get the property purchased by the US
Forest Service. This effort was successful in late 1996, and Deep
Creek Narrows has already been incorporated into the San
Bernardino National Forest.
The site remains relatively popular in warmer months,
despite the fact that it has only been featured in one guidebook,
the Climber's Guide to Southern California by Paul Hellweg and
Nathan Warstler-and much of the information about the site in
that book is wrong. However, Barnes told me recently that he
and Anthony Gough, editor of the ROWCC newsletter "What's
the Beta," were discussing the possibility of writing the definitive
guide to the area.
Page 9 March/April 1997
 California Ice: An On-line Resource and Research Project
by M. Amos Clifford
The California Ice Web site was created to gather information
about ice climbing in California. It's part of a project by
guidebook author Steve Tucker. Steve has been an avid ice
climber for more than two decades, and has been especially taken
by the seeming incongruity between images of California
sunshine and the first-rate ice climbing to be found in many parts
of the state.
Steve and I have climbed together since we were kids in
Santa Barbara in the 70's. I don't remember when Steve learned
to climb ice, but he talked me into a series of road trips to Lee
Vining in the Eastern Sierra, where he introduced me to the
wonder and terror of it all. When I moved to Visalia in late 70's,
I began exploring ice climbing possibilities in the Southern
Sierra. It was easy to talk Steve into coming up to Sequoia for
frequent excursions into Tokopah Valley. We dreamed about
someday ascending the great central gully of the Watchtower, but
never seemed to hit it on one of the rare occasions when it was in
shape. The first ascent eventually went to another party, who
named the route Moonage Daydream. Meanwhile, we made what
we think was the first ascent of another very beautiful route just
down the canyon from Moonage Daydream, which we named
Happy's Favorite. I have since heard from Dwight Kroll that he
may have ascended it earlier than we did, but he was uncertain
about the exact date, and didn't seem particularly concerned about
the fame and fortune that he missed out on by not getting first
ascent credit.
Steve's recent book, Climbing in Santa Barbara, San Luis
Obispo, and Ventura Counties, establishes him as a serious,
thoughtful, and creative guidebook writer. He and co-author
Kevin Steele did a great job. I worked with Steve and Kevin over
a series of marathon weekends to design the book and create
digital files in Quark Express, which we sent to a printer in Utah.
When Steve moved to Portland a couple of years ago, he
asked me if I would co-author the California Ice book. It seemed
like a great way to stay in touch and keep climbing together,
since naturally we would have to personally visit every area we
listed. One of the first steps we took was to catalog everything
we knew about ice climbing in California. We then called a
number of ice activists and got their input. I used my personal
Web site to publish what we had learned.
The reason we put the information on the Web was threefold:
First, we hope it's useful for climbers who are planning ice
excursions. Second, we figured that if our information was
incorrect, we'd hear about it and be able to fix the problem. Third,
we hoped that climbers would use the site to give us further
information about additional climbs, and fill in the missing
details on the climbs we already listed. This would help ensure
that the California Ice book would be comprehensive. We're
especially interested in anecdotes—true tales of terror, beauty,
wonder, and general tomfoolery that seem to occur where ever
climbers and ice meet. There are E-mail links throughout the
California Ice Web site to facilitate gathering these tales and other
information, but it's been up about a year and I've received maybe
a dozen messages total. I'm very disappointed to report that
people are keeping their stories to themselves. As a research
mOthEr rOck #5
tool, the Web site hasn't panned out too well. On the other hand,
I hope that at least a few climbers have found it useful.
Meanwhile, events in both Steve and my lives have left us
with little time to pursue the California Ice project. It's on the
back burner for now. Until we can get back to it, we hope
people will continue to use the California Ice Web page. It's at
two addresses on the Web. Probably the most stable is
"http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/2331/", which gets you to
the index page. You can readily navigate from there to the
California Ice project. Another way to get there is to search Alta
Vista for "Coyote Coalition" or "California Ice." Use the
quotation marks as shown here, so the search engine treats the
phrase a single string.
Steve and I hope you find the California Ice Web page
helpful. Happy climbing, and stay safe!
M. Amos Clifford can be reached at amos@bak2.lightspeed.net.
Southern California Ice
It's There...If You Have the Patience
For the benefit of mOthEr rOck readers without Web access, the
following is a working list of ice routes in So Cal, mostly
derived from the California Ice Web page. If you know of any
further information about So Cal ice climbs—no matter how rare,
contrived, obscure, or absurd—please send or E-mail details to
mOthEr rOck and we'll forward the info to Amos Clifford and
Steve Tucker for inclusion in the California Ice project.
Joshua Tree National Park
Although there are no recorded ascents, there have been reports of
ice shaping up in the Astro Domes area near the climb Room To
Shroom.
Tahquitz, San Jacinto Mountains
Yvon Chouinard was probably the first to climb the quality ice
routes on Tahquitz back in the late 1960's. Given good
conditions, the following routes can offer excellent multi-pitch
climbs up to 1,000 feet in length. Don't always expect to get
good rock protection on these routes. There are 85 degree ice
pitches on many of these routes.
Northeast Face (east variation)
Northeast Face (west variation)
Northeast Farce
The Lark
The Trough: The second pitch has one awkward section. The
remainder of the route is easier with snow and possibly verglassed
slabs to contend with.
Suicide Rock, San Jacinto Mountains
Surprise, Weeping Wall. FA: unknown. Usually climbed when
thin, chopping through ice to bolts for protection. It is wise to
climb very early in the morning since it receives the early
morning direct sun.
Strawberry Peak, San Gabriel Mountains
There have been reports of possible routes on the north face,
though no route information is currently available.
Page 10 March/April 1997
San Jacinto Peak
North Side Gully IV, WI 2, 3,000m. FA: unknown. From the
Snow Creek area, take the main gully coming down the north
side from summit. The bottom can be slush when the top
sections are well iced. Expect a long, grueling snow slog and
climb. Permission must be obtained from the local Indian
Reservation and the Department of Water in order to make the
approach.
Williamson Rock, San Gabriel Mountains
Williamson Rock Waterfall II, WI 4, 20m. FA: unknown, as
early as 1984. Take Angeles Crest Highway to Eagles Roost.
Park just down from Eagles Roost. Head down into the canyon
to Williamson Rock. Looking at Williamson Rock from the
south, go to the far right side to a 20m high vertical waterfall
created by snow melt. It is critical to have a solid spell of cold
weather to attempt this climb.
Williamson Slab I , WI 2-3, 20m. FA: unknown, as early as
1984. Across canyon from Williamson Rock is a low rock slab
with a few smears that occasionally shape up. The most
consistent is a 55 degree smear that is climbed for approximately
50 feet into a gully.
Falling Rock Canyon, San Gabriel Mountains
This little-known side canyon to Icehouse Canyon offers what
some consider the easiest access to the summit of Sugarloaf
Peak. On your way up the rugged canyon and in to the
Wilderness Area, you'll encounter a series of three waterfalls of
about 25 to 40 feet tall. The second and third intermittently ice
over. A few bolts had been placed on one of the waterfalls as
well as a large slabby face between the first and second falls, but
most appear to have been chopped in the last couple of years.
East Fork San Gabriel River, San Gabriel Mountains
The East Fork of the San Gabriel River is a strange place. At the
parking lot, you can either walk or ride a bike past the locked
gate up the paved road that ends about six or seven miles later at
Cogswell reservoir. The first mile or so of the road is littered and
not too pleasant, but go further and you'll discover a beautiful
meandering stream that stretches for miles. If you take the time
to explore some of the small side canyons, you'll also find many
small waterfalls. Five miles or so up canyon, at the
campground, hike a few minutes on a trail up Glenn Canyon to
the spectacular Glenn Canyon Falls. Although relatively low in
elevation, this area holds a lot of potential if hit at just the right
time, during the kind of prolonged cold spell we see once every
five or ten years.
M. Amos Clifford, Steve Tucker, Matt Artz, and others
contributed to this article.
It's a Jungle Out There...
Climbing on Artificial Rock at the L.A. Zoo
by Fritz Lowrey
Last year I got some folks bouldering at Griffith Park in Los
Angeles, but I no longer go there. To get there,
• Enter park via the Los Feliz gate
• Keep going until you pass the park offices
• Take the next left (marked as "To Golf Course")
• Park anywhere; I used the first lot on the right
• Walk up the hill, through the picnic areas
mOthEr rOck #5
• Once you get far enough up, you'll see a staircase that takes you
to the "Old Zoo" area
The Old Zoo still has many of the old animal enclosures
accessible. These are not real rock, they're spray-crete over some
kind of form. I heard the formations described as, "vaguely
Gunks-like."
Why do I no longer go there? The concrete shreds your
hands unless you tape aggressively, and my watch was stolen
there. I figure that the Gods are against it for me, but others
might have other luck. Be sure to take a good brush to get rid of
the spider webs and urban crap in the crevices.
Fritz Lowrey can be reached atjlowrey@skat.usc.edu.
Brew of the Month
Prospector Joe's Special Dark Golden Beer
by Matt Artz
Throughout history, men have done strange things in search of
gold. Countries, nay, entire civilizations have been created and
destroyed based on the strange metal. All in the name of greed.
Meanwhile, in a parallel universe, men throughout the ages
have done strange things in search of beer. Opinions, nay, entire
reputations have been created and destroyed based on the strange
liquid. All in the name of thirst.
Imagine an ideal place, a world where the minds and
stomachs of great men converge. A place where the gold flows
like a heavenly liquid, and the beer has the texture of Black Gold.
A place where you can have your gold, and catch a good buzz
from it, too.
Readers of mOthEr rOck, I'll let you in on a big secret. This
mythical place can easily be attained, for a small cash outlay of
only $3.99 per packet of six. The road to beverage nirvana may
be arduous for some, but the destination is near: head to your
nearest Trader Joe's, and ask the wee damsel behind the counter
for a treasure chest of gold. If she looks at you like yer a bum
with scurvy, simply regroup and ask her to point you in the
direction of the beer aisle, where you can search out a six pack of
Prospector Joe's Special Dark Golden Beer.
Dark enough to block 98% of the sun's ultraviolet
radiation, yet light enough not to be mistaken for used motor oil,
Prospector Joe's Special Dark Golden Beer is the perfect medium
between ice water and black coffee. As Christian Harder would
say, "there's a sandwich in every bottle." But it's not a heavy,
greasy patty melt. Nor is it an egg salad sandwich with extra
mayo. It's^more like a turkey club, hold the bacon. Or a lean
roast beef on a croissant, with a healthy swab of Gray Poupon.
We are on the verge of a convergence of cosmic
proportions. It's gold. It's beer. It's golden beer. Actually, it's
Prospector Joe's Special Dark Golden Beer. Unlike the days of
old, when rough-and-tumble warriors would carry their booty in
large sacks tied to their waists, yours comes in a convenient
carrying case. Because although all gold does not grow on trees,
in this case it comes in a bottle. You must merely muster the
last vestiges of strength in your J-Tree-shredded hands to remove
the protective bottle cap, or else find an ally to lend you an
opener. Then drink of the sacred liquid, savor the flavor, and send
thanks to any and all you praise, for you have arrived at a
timeless place of dreams, where the gold flows like a heavenly
liquid, and the beer has the texture of Black Gold. You are in
beervana.
Page 11 March/April 1997
southern California's climbing magazine

:•-'•
IP!

Issue #6 • May/June 1997

Editorial
The editor bouldering in J-Tree. Photo: Darell Palmer
A Moment of Reflection
So, this is the sixth issue. The end of our
first year. We've shared a lot of useful
information with the local climbing
community. We've received a lot of
praise, and a few reamings. We've lost
enough money to buy a dream rack or
two. Has it been worth it?
In a word, YES! Personally, I've made
countless new friends and have been
exposed to many new climbing areas...and
in the process, have become a much better
climber. But even more important,
mOthEr rOck seems to have generally
made a positive impression. With other
local publications like What's the Beta and
Cliff Notes, we're well on our way to
informing and entertaining the So Cal
community and moderate climbers in ways
that are just not feasible in the high-
quality mainstream publications like Rock
& Ice and Climbing.
As mOthEr rOck continues to evolve, we
like to think we're getting a little better
each time. The more people who get'
involved, the better the publication gets!
Join the fun; send us an article, a topo, a
picture, or any information you have that
you'd like to share with your fellow So
Cal climbers!
Looking ahead towards out next six
issues, you'll see more topos, interesting
interviews and trip reports, and NO
ADVERTISING! Until Issue #7, climb
hard, climb safe, and most importantly,
have FUN!
Matt Artz, Editor
mOthErrOck@aol.com
Letters to the Editor
Dear mOthEr rOck,
I just read through Issue #5 of mOthEr
rOck again and wanted to tell you that it's
way high on the cool meter! I especially
thought your talk with Randy Vogel was
mOthEr rOck #6
really good. Also, it's cool that you are
getting help from other writers; that
makes all the difference, doesn't it?
Cheers,
Mark Bishop
Editor, Boulderdash! Magazine
Local Access Information
Help Save Bishop Peak!
Located in the serene beauty of San Luis
Obispo is the seldom overlooked morro
called Bishop Peak. This dacite-topped
landmark is home to 200+ quality rock
climbs. The climbing varies from the
notorious Shadow Wall, a friction slab
with bolts, to the bold P-Wall, a 250 foot
vertical face with superb crack and face
routes. Tobin Sorensen and others got
their start here.
The issue at hand is the preservation
of this resource. Bishop Peaks access is
through private property. The land owner
has never had any problem with people
using his land, but now the land owner
wants to sell his Bishop Peak Ranch, a
138 acre parcel that contains the only
access to the climbing and bouldering.
Two parties are interested in the land,
a private developer and the City of San
Luis Obispo.
The Sierra Club, in conjunction with
the Access Fund (are you a member yet?)
and the city of San Luis Obispo are trying
to raise the funds for this 138 parcel
purchase. The City of San Luis Obispo is
negotiating with the owner of Bishop
Peak Ranch to secure the purchase.
These negotiations indicate that $500,000
to $750,000 will be required to culminate
the deal. San Luis Obispo has applied for
two grants, totaling $450,000, but has yet
to secure the required matching funds for
these grants.
This 138 acre purchase will provide
permanent access to climbing at Bishop
Peak, not to mention the continuation of
the aesthetic value of quaint San Luis
Obispo.
To make a tax deductible donation,
one can send a check to the Santa Lucia
Chapter of the Sierra Club (PO Box
15755, San Luis Obispo, CA 93406). If
you, like me, are strapped for cash, you
can still help by writing a letter to the
Access Fund, asking them for their
support.
-Matt Pollard,
mpollard@ rubens. artisan, calpoly. edu
Page 2
ROWCC Rendezvous
June 6th-8th, Shady Cove Group
Site, Keller Peak
The Rim of the World Climbing Club is
hosting their annual Rendezvous at Shady
Cove Group Site, Keller Peak, June 6th-
8th. Join them for three days of camping,
climbing, food, and fun.
southern California's climbing magazine
Publisher
The AMCC Group
Editor
Matt Artz
Editorial Contributors
Max Armpet
Amos Clifford
Fritz Lowrey
Reese Martin
Matt McGunigle
Chris Miller
Patrick Paul
Matt Pollard
Aaron Rough
Rob Stauder
Cindy Stigall
Brandon Thau
Randy Vogei
Todd Vogel
Editorial Advisors
Ruth Artz Bob Goff Steve Harris
Darell Palmer Jannine Senior Geoff Wade
Copyright © 1997 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group. All
rights reserved. mOthEr rOck magazine is published six
times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to climb
somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951,
Redlands, CA, 92375-1151 USA. E-mail:
mOthErrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGroup@aol.com.
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send
a check or money order for $10 to mOthEr rOck/The
AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-
1151. Subscriptions outside of the United States are $20
annually.
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll
consider it. We're a no budget operation, so send a
SASE if you need your materials back. Photo
submissions also welcome. E-mail mOthErrOck@aol.com
and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you
have not yet figured that out, you're an idiot and you
should probably stop climbing now before you hurt
yourself and others. And if you think you can bet your
life or safety on anything you read in mOthEr rOck,
think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any
of the information contained in these pages, and cannot
be held responsible in any way for any of your actions,
acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's
the way it should be. You're a climber after all.
On the Cover..,
Rob Stauder gives "Big Bob's Big Wedge"
a go at Joshua Tree. Photo by Matt Artz.
May/June 1997

Joshua Tree
|: ; " - - -:
S -;
-.:"• -" • •' - . '.
.
.,..
Selected New Routes
by Chris Miller
Here's some information on selected new routes that have gone
up in Joshua Tree recently. You will need a guidebook to
reference these climbs unless you know the park well.
1. Good Housekeeping, S.lla ***. Five bolts, need a 2"
to 2 1/2" cam also. On the arete just right of Popular
Mechanics.
2. Remus Gareebus, 5.10+ **. Five bolts, left of Lovey.
3. Blackjack, 5.10c/d ***. Seven bolts to a two bolt
belay/rap anchor, right of Pitch Black.
4. The Lizard of AMMS, 5.10c ***. Four bolts on arete,
right of Flawless Fissure.
5. What a Riot, 5.7 *. Two bolt, left of Live from
Tasmania.
6. The Rock Wren, 5.9 *. Three bolts to a two bolt
belay/rap anchor, left of Smoke-a-Bowl.
7. Road Runner, 5.11c/d **. Four bolts, FP (need cams to
1 1/2"). On the face left of The Rock Wren (use same
anchor).
8. Hernie, Hernie, Hernie, 5.8 * R. Right of Funky
Dung. Up buttress to roof, clip bolt out right then cut
right into a thin crack via face climbing.
9. Mind Over Matter, 5.9+ ***. Start on right side of
Head Over Heals roof (bolt) then up to join Spacewalk.
Pro to 4".
10. Norm, 5.10a ***. Five bolts to a two bolt belay/rap
anchor, left of Leap Your Flake.
11. Happy Happy, Joy Joy, 5.10a **. Obvious flake just
left of Coarse and Buggy.
12. Carlos, 5.9 **. Three bolt brown slab on backside of
Coarse and Buggy (approach from left).
13. Fat Free, 5.9 *. Four bolts, FP, pro to 2 1/2". Right of
Learn Quick or Die.
14. Army Armstrong, A3. Giant roof left of Tumbling
Rainbow formation.
15. Give a Mouse a Cookie, 5.10b **. Four bolts, two
FP's, to two bolt belay/rap anchor. Left of Easy Day.
16. Masochism, 5.8 *. Three bolt slab, right of Tubers in
Space.
17. Elixer, 5.10b **. Three bolts (2 to 2 1/2" cam also needed)
to two bolt belay/rap anchor, left of Dharnia Bums.
18. Amanda, 5.9+ *. Face with five bolts, right of Dharma
Bums (pro to 3").
19. Sniper, S.lla **. Three bolts (optional 3/4" cam), right of
The Enforcer.
mOthEr rOck #6
20. Inhaler, 5.8+ *. Four bolts to two bolt belay/rap anchor,
jp5 .
%
p :-
'
.;,--
•"
need small TCUs at start. Left of Jughead.
21. The Tooth Beaver, 5.10a. Seven bolts to a two bolt
belay/rap anchor, right of Eff Four.
22. Blues Traveller, 5.10c/d ***. Four bolts, #1 Friend or
equivalent, to two bolt belay/rap anchor. Left of Zzzzz.
23. Silver Lining, 5.11b/c ***. Five bolts (need 1 1/2" cam)
to three bolt belay/rap anchor. Right of Gumby
Poindexter.
24. Black Rabbit, 5.9+ **. Four bolts, right of White
Rabbit.
25. Lubricated Goat, 5.10a/b *. Nine bolts to bolt + FP
belay/rap anchor. 50' left of Emotional Rescue.
26. Bish, 5.9 ***. Eight bolts, FP (need #4 Camelot or
Friend) (pro to 3" for anchor). Left to right dike traverse up
and right from Lubricated Goat. Climbs above and
crosses Emotional Rescue.
27. Mirage, 5.10b **. Eight bolts, two bolt belay/rap anchor
(pro to 2 1/2") to reach start of climb.
28. Lone Pine, S.lla *. Seven bolts, two bolt belay/rap
anchor, left of Rough Riders.
29. The Happy Meal, 5.10b **. Four bolts, FP to two bolt
belay/rap anchor, left of Caramel Crunch.
When not climbing, Chris Miller can be found working at
Nomad Ventures in Joshua Tree.
Saturday, June 7, 1997
Second Annual Southern Sierra Climbers'
Association Slide Show
The Second Annual Southern Sierra Climbers' Association Slide
Show will be held at the Ponderosa Lodge, near the Needles and
Dome Rock, at 8 p.m. on Saturday, June 7, 1997. The slide
show will feature the images of renowned Southern Sierra
climber, author, and adventurer Richard Leversee. The special
guest speaker for the evening will be Sally Moser, Executive
Director of the Access Fund. Live music will be provided by that
"infamous" Joshua Tree band, The Cactus Pricks. For more
information, call Rene Ardesch at 209-592-2419.
-Patrick Paul
Saturday-Sunday, June 7-8, 1997
Williamson Rock Trail Construction
On June 7th & 8th, 1997, there will be a need for volunteers to
help with the initial construction of a new Williamson Rock
Trail. Volunteers may contact Eric at the Santa Ana REI store
for more information (714-543-4142). Be sure to mention you
are interested in the Williamson Rock Trail Project, as other
National Trails Day projects are also planned for that weekend.
When completed, this new trail will provide quick and direct
access to the Rock from the large parking lot to the east of the
current "short trail." The new trail is being professionally
designed by Jim Angell of Corplan, Oregon, in cooperation with
the Forest Service, and is funded by the Access Fund. REI and
local climbers have agreed to provide volunteer labor and
appropriate tools. A list of needed tools will be available
through REI in the next few weeks. Volunteers may arrive
without tools, as there will be tools available on site.
-Randy Vogel
Page 3 May/June 1997

by
Aaron
Rough
Tunnel Vision, 5.7, 6 Pitches
Red Rocks, Nevada
T T ell, it's already time for the second installment of
"Moderately Moderate"...same bat time, same bat channel. Since
I covered Snake Dike in Yosemite in the last issue, I figured I
would choose a different area this time: Red Rocks, NV. Now if
you haven't been to Red Rocks before, do me a favor. Get out
your calendar, cross off all planned climbing trips, and pencil in
Red Rocks. The place is awesome! Especially if you're into
long, moderate trad routes. Yeah, I know, Red Rocks has world
class sport climbing...but we've got plenty of that in good old
So Cal. So next time you're planning a trip to Vegas, bring a
pocket full of quarters and your rack!
To start things off, Tunnel Vision deserves a big thumbs up.
It's an excellent route with a very interesting fifth pitch. This
pitch involves climbing under a gigantic flake; in essence, you
climb through a tunnel, hence the climbs' name. It's a relatively
easy and direct approach with a straightforward descent requiring
only a single rappel. Allow at least half an hour to an hour each
way for the approach, depending on how fast you can hike.
The players for this episode were myself, Scott Paynton (my
brother-in-law; the person who first introduced me to climbing),
and Lance. Scott is currently living in Southern Illinois and
attends SIU working on a Ph.D. in Communications. Lance is
doing the same. Scott has been climbing for a couple of years,
and cut his teeth on trad and multi-pitch, while Lance has never
been more than 100 feet off the ground. This was to be his first
multi, and he had very little practice at pro. Because of this, we
decided to use a double rope system, with Lance in the middle,
and Scott and I swapping leads.
The approach was uneventful, and miraculously we did not
get lost. This was a definite testament to the ease of the
approach, as I have been known to get lost walking from my
front door to my car. We roped up and it was determined that I
would start things off.
The first pitch involved stemming up a corner under a roof,
and traversing right under it to access an off-width that led another
100 feet up to the first belay. The crack was nice, and the
traverse was on big jugs. The awful-width, OOPS, I mean off-
width, was pretty straightforward except for some loose blocks
about 50 feet up that had to be circumvented to continue up the
crack. All in all, an easy pitch except for the rope drag. Bring
long runners as you will suffer the consequences of severe rope
drag without them. It took Lance a while to make it up the
mOthEr rOck#6
initial corner, but pretty quickly all three of us were at the first
belay stance.
The second pitch looked intimidating. I was thankful it was
Scott's lead. While the guidebook had it clocked in at 5.4, it
looked to be much worse. A large chimney led up to a roof, and
then the rest of the pitch was obscured by the large cap the roof
made at the top of the chimney. The guidebook showed the
chimney continuing to a belay on a flat spot. Scott was soon on
his way, and he gave us a running commentary on how easy it
was. After a few minutes, we lost sight of him as he left the
chimney and proceeded up the face. It didn't take long to hear an
echoing "Off belay" and feel some sharp tugging to let me know
he was at the belay stance.
Lance headed up on TR and had to leave a piece or two
behind for me to clean. He was staying pretty composed for his
first multi experience, and I was impressed. Not too long after
Lance left, I could hear another party starting up behind us.
About the time I was on belay and ready to head up, a head poked
over the ledge and asked if there was room for him. I let him
know I was leaving and I told him we'd let them pass if they
could catch up to us. It turned out they were slower than us, but
I'll mention more about that later. So I headed up and found the
chimney relatively was easy, and worked out a hex that was really
buried into the crack. When I reached the belay, I tried to give
Scott back his hex only to find out that it wasn't his and that I
had got a free piece of booty gear! The joys of multi-pitches!
Photos: Aaron Rough
Tunnel Vision takes the middle sunlit arete for six pitches.
After the gear swapping was done, I finally took some time
to look up at the next pitch. The guidebook called it a "steep and
exposed chimney" and gave it a 5.7 rating. That's not what I
saw. I saw a horrendous flaring off-width/chimney that looked to
be too small to fit in and too large to jam. It turned out to be
worse than I had even imagined. I ended up slinging a cornflake,
(a really scary sandstone flake that wouldn't have held an
Ethiopian falling a mere two feet), and then worming/belly
crawling through a constriction in the chimney above Scott's
head. One slip and I would've ripped the flake and parked my big
butt directly on to his noggin.
This situation really got my heart pumping, and I'm not
ashamed to admit that I was severely freaked. I wormed as far
into the chimney as I could and did what any sane person would
do in a similar situation: I cried like a baby. Well, OK, so I
didn't actually cry, but you can bet there was some promises
made to God if he'd only let me make it through the pitch alive.
I continued to thrash past some fixed pieces and eventually sat a
severely scraped and battered butt on a nice flat ledge. I was
amazed at how quickly Scott and Lance made it up the chimney.
Page 4 May/June 1997
Turns out, they climbed the knobbed face to the left of the
chimney and Scott just reached back into the chimney to get the
pro out. Either that's a testament to how crappy my pro was or
the guidebook just misled me into thrashing up that sucker for
nothing. Oh well.
Looking down from the top of the third pitch.
The fourth pitch looked to be an easy straight-in crack to a
roof, traverse right, then up the crack to a large belay ledge at the
base of the "tunnel." We were making good time, but the winter
days are short, especially when you're surrounded by looming
sandstone buttresses on both sides. It looked like we had plenty
of time to finish, but the group behind us was nowhere to be
seen or heard. Scott ate a bagel, and then proceeded up the crack.
At 5.5, it presented no problem for him and he was soon at the
belay. By this time, the novelty of multi-pitch climbing was
wearing off on Lance. I could see he was getting a little strained
when he looked at the ground more than 300 feet below. But he
didn't let that stop him, and he made short work of the pitch. I
followed up, and we all agreed the pitch was a very nice and
enjoyable one.
The fifth pitch is what I was concerned about the whole time
I was climbing the third one. The third pitch was 5.7 without
even a PG pro rating. The fifth pitch was only 5.3 but
guidebook author Todd Swain gave it an X rating for pro. That
scared me. Scott took one look up at the pitch black tunnel, and
with a grin, said "you're up!" The main dilemma here was which
way to go in the tunnel. It seemed the logical line went straight
up to a distant light source, and there was chalk headed up that
way...but the book showed the line traversing left to the back of
the tunnel to a different exit.
While I was severely tempted to go up to where I could see
the light, I decided to follow the topo directions and thank God I
did. Turns out that straight up is a sucker way, and there is no
exit out of the tunnel. Who knows how many people have gone
that way, but I bet you could find a crap load of fixed gear people
left up there to get back down. So I turned on my headlamp and
headed into the blackness. The rock was smooth, water polished,
and didn't have much in the way of features. Fortunately, I was
able to find a small seam to put a #3 nut into. Not much for
pro, but a definite psychological boost. I keep traversing left
while diagonalling up and soon was faced with a mantel onto a
ledge a pretty long way above my last piece of pro. Not much
choice evolved here, so I manteled up. This is definitely the X
part, as a fall here would wedge you somewhere in the back of the
mOthEr rOck#6
tunnel that would make things a little hard for a rescue. I
traversed left along a good ledge and then did a fun chimney exit
move into the sunlight. Easier moves up parallel cracks lead to a
flat belay ledge. Scott and Lance both came up and soon we were
all ready for the sixth pitch.
By this time it was getting a little dim, and we started to feel
the need to hurry. Scott headed up the knobby face and cracks to
a bulgy finish beneath the last pitch. Lance headed up next and
had some problems, but managed to get past the bulge. I arrived
at the belay and scoped the last pitch. We could either go up a
crack, or traverse left. I opt for the traverse, as the light is
definitely dimming and by now Lance isn't the only one who
wants off the rock. I headed across the ledge into the unknown to
find a crack running horizontally—perfect for pro. I zipped this up
and soon was smiling at a large ledge. I shouted "Off belay," and
Lance started to come across. Scott asked Lance, "How are
things going?," to which Lance responded, "I'm going as FAST
AS I CAN!" At this point, it was definitely getting a little
tense. By the time Scott came across, there was not much light
left at all.
Scott Paynton finishing the sixth pitch traverse.
We quickly snapped the obligatory summit photos and
started the descent. After a short rap, we were hiking down a
scree gully to the base of the climb and our packs. We retrieved
them and started the hike out. On the way back, we looked up in
the twilight at the route we had just climbed. The large tunnel
mouth, now obvious to us, was quite impressive. While
looking, I could see a sudden dim flash of light. I pointed it out
to Scott and Lance. With the aid of some binoculars, we could
see the group that was following us—they were just getting out of
the left side of the tunnel. I was a little worried, but figured they
all should have head lamps and the climb eased up at this point
so they should be O.K. We finished up the hike back to the car
and unloaded the gear.
From here, it was the usual routine: a short drive back to
Vegas, a stop at In and Out for a double double cheese burger, and
then the long four hour drive back home. The drive was a
session in suffering. Dirty and sweaty, we longed for hot
showers and sleep, but by Barstow I had cracked the guidebook
and started planning the next adventure.
Guidebook: Red Rocks Select, 2nd Edition, by Todd Swain.
Aaron Rough has been climbing for three years, and lives in
Highland, CA with his wife and daughter. He can be reached by
E-mail at roughitl@aol.com.
Page 5 May/June 1997

Box Springs
A New Sport Climbing Area
Near Mt. Rubidoux
by Aaron Rough
Ever get home from work with only a few hours of sunlight left,
but still would like to get some climbing in? Yeah, I know, the
easy fix is bouldering at Mt. Rubidoux, but you sometimes feel
like leading something. Maybe you like trad, maybe you like
sport, or maybe you just want to try bouldering at a new area.
Well, I've got a secret to let you in on...you can do all three at a
newly developed area that is probably closer than you think. In
fact, if you live in the San Bernardino/Riverside area, it's only
minutes away. You don't believe me? Well, check this out!
Il
l
** :.
m.
.'iiiK :.
ii Photo: Aaron Rough
Greg Hartt crimps down on Creature Comforts, 5.10a/b,
a Box Springs classic!
I found myself in the above mentioned dilemma more times
than I cared to admit. I had been to Mt. Rubidoux more times
than that guy who breaks into the cars parked on Glenndale. So I
set out on a quest to find a local spot where I could put up some
new routes. You would be surprised where I found them. Box
Springs. Yeah, that smog-choked valley that seems to be
mOthEr rOck #6
nothing more than a fire hazard waiting for a stray match. I had
to do some exploring, but what I found got me and some of my
close friends pretty excited. In fact, I bet it will get you going
too. What, still don't believe me? How about a multi-pitch
route within 15 minutes of your house? Believe me, its there.
My first trip to the new area was in May of 1995. A short
10 minute hike left me staring up at a cliff band that now houses
24 routes and boulder problems. And that doesn't even include
the routes put up on the many nearby free-standing formations!
Now you're interested.
Many of the new routes are sport, and most are in the
moderate range, from 5.9 to 5.11. There are quite a few easier
TR's, boulder problems, or gear leads. Oh, yeah, there are also
killer cracks to be done here! Try the technical Beat You To It,
5.10c. Ever tried pulling a roof finger crack? Or the classic
Broken Heart, 5.8. This great crack has spit more than a few
people out. Or the overhung boulder problem crack of Crazy
Nights; at 5.9+, its moderate. If you're not feeling particularly
ballsy, there are two TR bolts up top. How about 77 Hit Squad
or Cavity Search! The list goes on and on. That multi-pitched
climb mentioned earlier is called Aids Patient—it goes at 5.7 and
is two pitches.
The bouldering at Box Springs is just taking off, and with
the new additions like Sideshow, 5.10b, and Circus Freak, 5.10c,
even the semi-hard man will have something to do. The
bouldering potential is just about unlimited, and the attitude from
me and other developers of the area is the more routes and BP's
the better! The new discovery of some larger walls has got us
excited, and soon some longer sport and trad routes will be going
up. In fact, by the time you read this, they'll probably be done!
Now all good things don't come cheap, but every now and
then something good comes around that doesn't cost you an arm
and a leg. How about $6.00 for a guide to the area? That sounds
pretty good and cheap to me! The proceeds from this guide are
not going to be wasted. We plan on using any money the guide
makes to buy more bolts and equipment for further development
of the area. So by buying this guide, you're in essence funding
new routes just for you! Damn, we are such nice guys!
(Actually, we're just too damned addicted to climbing). So if
you're interested, check out the mOthEr rOck Web page
(http://members.aol.com/motherrock) or use the ordering info
found below to be the first on your block to get the new guide to
Box Springs.
Box Springs Sport Climbing Guide
by Aaron Rough
Available June 1997. All profits are reinvested in bolts and
i equipment for further development of the Box Springs area. Toi
' order, send a check for $6.00 to:
mOthEr rOck
PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151 USA
V Please send me the new Box Springs Sport Climbing Guide\:
Address:
[City/State/ZIP Code:
Page 6 May/June 1997
 Selected Central Coast Climbing
^ .
Part It Sant by Reese Martin
he counties up the coast from L.A. offer a surprising wealth
of rock with superb climbing and bouldering. This article covers
some of the climbing near Santa Barbara. Most of the climbing
is in the Santa Ynez mountains immediately behind Santa
Barbara and the ocean, where the mellowing effects of the Pacific
marine air make climbing a year-round reality. Climb in the sun
wearing shorts and tank tops in January, instead of freezing your
butt off flapping in the desert winds. In the late spring and early
summer the fog and ocean air keeps it cool, instead of the inland
bake-fests. The climbing is mostly sandstone, but some
blueschiste can be found along the Camino Cielo ridge at "The
Kryptor." The quality of the local stone can be excellent.
Photo: KathyTailey
Reese Martin leads "The Bolt Ladder, " 5.10+, Gibraltar Rock.
mOthEr rOck #6
I ' I '" '
fjara
Things to do in Santa Barbara
A visit to Santa Barbara is not just a climbing trip-there is just
too much else to do. The red tile roofed city of Santa Barbara is a
world renowned tourist destination. It is as near a perfect place
and environment as any where on the planet. The ocean and
surfing are right in town. Santa Barbara is also a cultural and
entertainment Mecca. The climbing and world class mountain
biking are right behind town, so the delights of Santa Barbara
will beckon to you at the end of the day. A micro-brewery on
State Street and great restaurants abound. Start your morning
wanning yourself in the sun and getting caffeinated in front of
Santa Barbara Roasting on lower State Street. From the porch
out front you can look up to see the mountains and the crags
above, while watching the beyond-cool Santa Barbarians start
their day. This is a popular launch point for mountain bikers and
their road bike brethren, clomping about in cleats and funny
shirts. Lotsa healthy young things to look at too.
Santa Barbara is under a two hour drive from downtown L.A.
To get there, just follow the Ventura Freeway (Highway 101)
west to Santa Barbara. Once north of the farms and citrus
surrounding Ventura, you'll find the character of the land rapidly
changes to coastal scrub and the Rincon. Enjoy the drive, with
the Pacific Ocean and surfers on the left and the yellow mustard,
sage, and chaparral hills of the coast on the right.
Camping
South of Santa Barbara, there is reservable pay camping at the
State beaches in Carpinteria and along the Rincon at the Ventura
County Parks. North of town there are State beaches at El
Capitan and Refugio. Additional pay camping can be found at
Lake Cachuma or along Paradise Road. For those of you too
cheap to pay to camp: mOthEr rOck climbers are welcome to
doss in my backyard in Ventura.
Restaurants
• Super Cuca's Taqueria y Carneceria. 626 W. Micheltorena.
Best burritos in Santa Barbara.
• Santa Barbara Brewing Company. 501 State Street. Rehydrate
& refuel on the local micro-brews. Pub grub, good salads.
• La Super Rica. On Milpas Street, it doesn't have a sign out
front. Some of the best Mexican food ever.
• Esau's Coffee Shop. 403 State Street. THE cool breakfast
spot; expect a line.
To get tuned into the nightlife pick up the Santa Barbara
INDEPENDENT, a free arts & entertainment paper available all
over Santa Barbara.
Page? May/June 1997

San Ysidro Canyon
Beautiful San Ysidro Canyon is located behind the rather upscale,
affluent "village" of Montecito. The climbing is on a 300 foot
wide face a short distance up the canyon. Abundant poison oak is
nearby, so watch out. You are not likely to get any if you stay
on the trails.
Photo: Reese Martin
Kathy Talley and Gwendolyn Alley (belaying)
enjoying the "South Face, " 5.5, Gibraltar Rock.
To get there, exit Highway 101 at San Ysidro Road and head up
toward the hills. At East Valley Road, turn right, then left up
the eucalyptus-lined Park Lane, and bear left on Mountain Drive.
A couple of hundred yards down Mountain Drive is the poorly
marked San Ysidro Canyon trail head. Hike up the trail past
houses and another ten minutes up the hill; after the houses the
trail is really more of a fire road, and you'll be able to see the
crag across the creek. A short climbers trail crosses the creek and
leads to the routes. Access & parking for the trail is a sensitive
issue for certain residents, so please respect the no-parking areas
on Upper Mountain Drive.
mOthEr rOck#6
Lower San Ysidro Canyon, Santa Barbara
7 var. 3rd
130'
80'
<$=* Road and Trail
© 1997, Reese Martin
Lower San Ysidro Canyon—Selected Routes
1. Puny Prow, 5.10. Single bolt.
2. Vanishing Flakes, 51 la ***. Difficulty seems to depend
on the humidity and temperature; if you can get up to the
drilled angle, life will be sweet. A #4 Friend is useful to
protect the top.
Young William, 5.12a R. This is a thin and runout
testpiece, with high ground fall potential. "Jeepers Wally,
you lead this one."
4. Rockocco, 5.5. Take a couple of larger Friends with you.
Applied Magnetics, 5.9 **. FA: Yvon Chouinard and Sir
Christian Bonnington. Climb a bit of history. Cool start to
the route. Wired nuts keep it from getting run out.
Too Mucking Futch, 5.8. Climb the crack. Pro: wires
and small cams.
7. Face Lift, 5.7 ***. VERY popular. Be sure to take two
long runners to reduce the rope drag on the first pitch. There
are three variations to the second pitch: go up and split to the
right (5.9), or traverse right from the belay to Scrub Job
(5.9). Or farther right to Chavez/Mosher, 5.10 R, it's
thin for a long ways after the bolt.
8. Great Race, 5.10a ***. The best 5.10a in Santa Barbara.
Don't chicken out: move left at the fifth bolt to get to the
upper face. The direct start is 5. lOb.
9. Peels of Laughter, 5<5 R **. Easy arete, but only two
bolts on the entire pitch.
10. Many Happy Returns, 5.9 ***. Fun climb, seems
easier; take a #2 Friend & some medium size wired nuts.
lOa. Amish in Space, S.lOa R. From the ledge on the second
bolt on Many Happy Returns, head left a bit then
straight up through steep rock. A real trouser-filling lead.
11. Orangahang, 5.7 ***. Corner to a bulge. Classic.
12. Rick's Route, 5.7 **. Thin face.
13. Fine Line, 5.9 **. Thinner face climbing. Three bolts.
14. Ricky Don't Lose That Number, 5.9 R. Don't worry
about gear, there isn't any. On-sight, free solo first ascent.
15. The Weeny Roofs, 5.9. Crux is setting up the roof
moves. Four bolts.
Page 8 May/June 1997
 Gibraltar Rock
Gibraltar Rock is the climbing spiritual center and most popular
crag in Santa Barbara. The area sits way up above Santa Barbara
with exposure and a great view. The crags are scattered about
both above and below Gibraltar Rock.
To get to Gibraltar Rock, exit Highway 101 at Mission Street,
head towards the mountains on Mission Street to Laguna Street,
turn left then right onto Los Olivos Street in front of Mission
Santa Barbara, keep left until Mountain Drive, and head uphill on
Mountain Drive staying left past Sheffield Reservoir. Take a
right onto Gibraltar Road, and go uphill for five miles to the
obvious crags. Park on the right side.
Gibraltar Rock Area—Sticky Possibilities
T-Crack, 5.10 ***. Beeeuutiful climb. The mantle is onlp
5.8, but seems scarier. Cams & a few nuts. Often toproped.
Any Minute Now, 5.6 **. Easy to protect.
The Nose, 5.1 la ***. Wide hand crack through a roof. Take a
#4 Friend to protect the crux.
Klingon, 5.8 **. Fun. Take some smaller stoppers. Easy to
The Ladder, 5.3 **. Immensely popular, expect a line. Can
toprope the main face anywhere at about 5.7. Good anchors
on top,
Lunch Rock. Features several good 5.10 toprope problems.
Right off the road.
Crank Start, 5.11+ **. Strenuous, well protected sport climb.
The Bolt Ladder, 5.10+/5.11 **. Old aid bolt ladder with
BAD bolts, difficulty depends on how close you stay to the
original bolt line. Can belay from your bumper.
Sweating Buckets, 5.lie **. Brilliant. You'll need some
gear for the initial crack.
The Crescent, 5.7 ***. Curving crack. Climb it via the first
half of Triple Overhang, 5.6.
Pseudomania, 5.11- ***. Quality overhanging crack in a right
facing corner. Rap in. Will need nuts and cams.
Lieback Annie, 5.7 **-*. Includes a strange mantle move.
Gear route.
Stormbringer, 5.11+ ***. Quality. Five bolts. Some
bushwhacking necessary to get to it.
Makunaima, 5.lie ***. Ultra-classic overhanging crack on
Cold Springs Dome. Usually toproped from a three bolt
anchor on top.
Magic Bag, 5.9 **. Don't know why more people don't climb
this quality route. Cams and stoppers.
Master Cylinder, 5.9 ***. Overlooked. Full pitch of variec
climbing. Two bolts, but you'll need cams and stoppers for
the first half.
mOthEr rOck #6
The Kryptor
Also known as the "Green Dome," The Kryptor is a hard
blueschiste, which makes for steep edging—very different
climbing than the usual sandstone found in Santa Barbara. All of
the climbs here are bolted sport routes. From Gibraltar Rock
continue uphill to East Camino Ceilo Road and turn right; after 6
1/2 miles of winding driving along the ridge, the pavement ends
at Romero Saddle. Park here. The crag is downhill on the Santa
Ynez River side of the ridge (away from the ocean).
Photo: Reese Martin
"John" rope soloing "T-Crack," 5.10, Gibraltar Rock.
The Kryptor—Tubular Tuggin'
This Side of Paradise, 5.10c **. Four bolts. Good
introduction to climbing in the area.
Rock the Kasbar, 5.9. Four bolts. ;
Piece of the Action, 5.10b *. Six bolts.
Anti-Bro, 5.10b *. Four bolts.
Dancing Fingers, 5.10+ ***. Good pockets.
For the World is Hollow & I Have Touched the Sky,
5.lib *. Eight bolts. Named after a popular science fiction
story.
]|| |
Looking for Spock's Brain, 5.9 *. Four bolts.
What Have You Done With Spock's Brain?, 5.9+ *.
Move right around corner at the fourth bolt of the previous
route, then up past two more bolts.
That Which Survives, 5.lie *. Arete, four bolts.
Stealing Fire, 5.12d/13a **, Six bolts. Way tricky, has spit
off some of the hardest climbers around.
Quartz Crystal, 5.12c/d **-*. Six bolts, worth toproping.
Dagger of the Mind, 5.12c ***. Four bolts. I still haven't
linked all the moves on this one. : ;;;
Page 9 May/June 1997
 The Fire Crags
Fire Crags is a relatively new sport climbing area on large
sandstone boulders above Highway 154 at Painted Cave Road.
Access to these rocks was made possible after a fire that burned
off the impenetrable brush surrounding the rock. These routes
get sun in the afternoon & are hot in the summer.
Unfortunately, there was significant chipping and "alteration" of
the rock by the fools who put up the routes. Hopefully, by
exposing this stupidity, we can prevent further abortions from
occurring. Chipping destroys our rock and steals climbs from the
future.
From Santa Barbara take Highway 154 toward Santa Ynez; turn
right at Painted Cave Road, and head up the road for about half a
mile to a hairpin turn with a pull-out on the left. Park here. A
five minute walk along a traversing climbers trail leads to the
boulders. Be sure to park completely off the pavement—you don't
want a ticket do ya?
Painted Cave
If you keep going up the Painted Cave Road past the Fire Crags,
you'll soon come to the four Painted Cave boulders. Don't
worry, you can't miss the boulders—they are literally right on the
road. This is some of the best bouldering and home to the
current hardest boulder problem in Santa Barbara: Broken Flake,
V9. There is usually somebody hanging out who can show you
some of the 50 plus problems. The local residents regard
climbers as a minor annoyance, so please, be low key, keep the
noise down and don't block the road, staring at a problem.
#####

The Fire Crags, Santa Barbara

20 ^ 181?
16

to Painted Cave Road Photo: Kathy Talley

© 1997, Reese Martin and Parking Reese Martin scared poopless from the ancient spinner bolts with
cracked Leeper hangers, "The Bolt Ladder," 5.10+, Gibraltar Rock.
The Fire Crags -- Route List This article is just a sample of climbing available in the Santa
Barbara Area. For a more detailed description of local climbing
16. Europe Revised, 5.7. Two Bolts.
possibilities, refer to Climbing in Santa Barbara, Ventura & San
17. Tester, 5.9. Three bolts.
Luis Obispo by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele, Lorraine Press,
18. Short Shot, 5.7. Toprope out of cave.
1994. You can buy this guidebook and get gear and local beta
19. Bent Brain, 5.8. Toprope route.
from either of the two mountain shops in Santa Barbara:
20. Jensen's Jugs, 5.1 Ob. Four bolts.
21. Movin' Out, 5.lib. Five bolts, chipped holds. Great Pacific Iron Works Mountain High Sports
22. Grib Dat Hole, 5.1 la. Six bolts, chipped. State Street (at Anapumu St.) 14 State Street (near the beach)
23. Finger Fit, 5.lib. Five bolts. Has been done without Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara,
the drilled pockets (5.12). 805-966-7370 805-962-0049
24. Face the Seam, 5.10. Four bolts. www.patagonia.com www.mountainair.com
25. Black Crack, 5.9. Take a #3 Friend.
26. Quick Crank, 5.10+. Don't bother. Reese Martin lives in Ventura, California. To reach him by E-
27. Screaming Knee Knee, 5.lie. Three bolts. mail, write to reese3@fishnet.net. Reese will cover the better
28. Flaccidily Flexing Forearms, 5.lid. Three bolts. bouldering along the Central Coast in the July/August issue of
Would have gone without the drilled pockets. mOthEr rOck.
29. Crack It Up, 5.9. Long boulder problem.

mOthEr rOck #6 Page 10 May/June 1997

 DMZ, Giant Rock Area, Landers
by Steve Parker

TR anchors Critzer Tower

DMZ for N.face

Spy Buttress
descent
80' rap chains

AKA Sandy chimney

Cove
Giant Rock 5.7 crack
Area, Landers 40' So. East
and up
from "L"

4 bolts to
cold shuts,
So. face

J K
H I topo by Steve Parker

To get to the DMZ area, see Craig Fry's Southern California Bouldeirng Guide, Second Edition. The Giant Rock and Jugs Over the
Sand areas are described on pages 120-121. To get to the DMZ area, continue north then west about a quarter mile past Giant Rock.
Several other routes exist scattered throughout the hillside. There is more route potential on the North Face area and on all hillsides,
and there is good bouldering in all areas.

DMZ Route List

A. Plutonic Erectus, 5.8. Two bolts, to two bolt rap anchor. FA: Steve Parker, Tom Thoma 7/92.
B. To Catch A Thief, 5.8. Four bolts, to two bolt rap anchor. FA: Parker, Thoma 5/93.
C. Soldier of Fortune, 5.10c. Two bolts, to rap chains. FA: Mike Paul.
D. Chemical Warfare, 5.1 Ic/d. Four bolts, to rap chains. FA: Louie Anderson, Larry Kuechlin 4/93.
E. Not Really A Spy, 5.10c. Six bolts, to rap chains. FA: Dave Haber 1/92 (TR); Anderson, Kuechlin 4/93 (lead).
F. Merchant Marine, 5.9. Four bolts, to rap chains. FA: Chris Miller, Rick Schull 12/90.
G. Sniper, 5.1 Od. Four bolts, to two bolt rap anchor. FA: Anderson, Kuechlin 4/93.
H. Ambush, 5.6. FA: Parker, Thoma 5/93.
I. False Accusations, 5.10c. Seven bolts, to rap chains. FA: Haber, Parker 1/92 (TR); Kuechlin, Anderson, 5/93 (lead).
J. Blasting Caps, 5.10c. Five bolts, to rap chains. FA: Parker 1/92.
K. Tear Gas, 5.1 la. Three bolts, some small pro up to one inch, to rap chains. FA: Parker 1/92.
L. Sandanista, 5.12b. Four bolts, to cold shuts. FA: Anderson, Kuechlin 4/93.
M. Essex, 5.7. Crack. FA: Steve and Brent Parker 7/92.

mOthEr rOck #6 Page 11 May/June 1997

 Local Access Information
Shoot-Out in the High Desert
I was out bouldering by myself on Saturday, March 8th, 1997 at
Stonehenge in the High Desert, having a great time working
some problems way over my head. My forearms and fingers were
just about completely wrecked when a guy walked up to me and
said I was on private property.
I had heard of the recent closure of Deadman's Point, and the
most recent maps I saw looked like the line was awfully close to,
but just outside of, the Stonehenge area. I also asked a few
friends, guys who spend more time than me out at High Desert,
and they all stated that Stonehenge was in the area still open, as
far as they knew.
Whatever. I wasn't going to argue with the guy. I ended up
talking to him for about an hour; we had a very pleasant
conversation. He stated that he wasn't the landowner, but
represented his father and a friend, who owned the two large
parcels in question.
As it turns out, this was "Alf," the guy who supposedly
whipped out a shotgun and shot at some climbers a week or two
prior to our conversation. His side of the story is that he asked
them to leave nicely about 15 times. When they began cussing
at him and threatening him with physical harm, he claims he
fired the shotgun in the air, over their heads. Anyway, he said he
was scheduled to appear in court a couple of weeks later. (In fact,
he plea bargained a few days later.)
His main concern was liability. He had not talked to anyone
representing the Access Fund, but had at least heard of the
organization's name. He didn't understand climbing, but seemed
curious, and he had nothing against climbers~in his words, "90%
of them are very nice, apologize, and leave right away."
Together we looked at a map, from Troy Mayr's recent article
in Rock & Ice (#77), and Alf drew the private property line more
towards Horseman's Center, in effect taking out the majority of
the climbing at High Desert, including the Cemetery and several
other popular areas.
Back at Horseman's Center, I was able to find one climber
who had witnessed the shooting a week or so earlier. He was not
directly involved (or at least did not claim to be), but had
apparently observed from a safe distance. He was a bit freaked
southern California's climbing magazine
PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151 USA
out about it and didn't say much, other than he knew the guy
wasn't the landowner, and that the guy was full of shit when he
drew the property line that far west.
I later spoke to Travis McElvaney, ROWCC president, who
happened to be climbing at High Desert the day of the shooting.
"It was straight out of Deliverance," Travis said. "There was no
warning. We heard the shots before we saw him. He shot four
or five rounds, obviously not in the air, and people were taking
cover. He took off pretty quickly, and several climbers with
cellular phones called the Sheriff."
Randy Vogel has talked to Alf and the landowners, and
options are currently being discussed (see Randy's notes below).
Meanwhile, Alf is packing a shotgun; so until the whole issue is
resolved, I'm going to boulder elsewhere. Soft White Underbelly,
V5, is a great problem that I had hoped to work frequently and
nail some time before I die, but no boulder problem is worth an
ass full of buckshot.
-Matt Artz
High Desert Update
The owner of much of the Cemetery area at the High Desert is
working on a plan to re-open the area, and possibly the
Deadman's Point area, on a fee for access/use basis. Daily and
annual use fee options are being contemplated. Camping sites
nearby would also possibly be developed for overnight use for a
fee. Rates of approx $5.00 per day or $50.00+ per year have
been discussed, but it is unsure as of yet what the final
arrangement will be. Signing of a liability release form has also
been mentioned.
Surveys of the area indicate that much, but perhaps not all,
of the Cemetery is in fact on private property which would be
subject to any fee use. However, it is clear that the BMX Crags
and Horseman's Center Crags (the Pin, Tower of Power, Riders
Ready, Carousel, Billboard, and Lightning Bolt formations),
including The Undertaker and Stalker routes (on the crag above
the water tank), all are clearly on public property, are not subject
to any present closure, and would be unaffected by any use fee.
--Randy Vogel
southern California's climbing magazine!
Editors' Corner sport of rock climbing? In fact, I could
write a column. I could give tips about
climbintg in a skirt, how to do laudering
of delicate things on the top of a rock, etc. southern California's climbing magazine
I think your guidebooks are great! Publisher
Why don't you publish a guidebook about The AMCC Group
the many areas of California available for Editor
Matt Artz
drag queens to climb? You would make a
Associate Editor
fortune! Especially if you put my photo Aaron Rough
on the cover!!! I can send you a copy of
my picture so you can judge for yourself! Editorial Contributors
The editor houldering in J-Tree. Photo: Darell Palmer
—Minerva Max Arrnpet Reed Bartlett
Amos Clifford Heather Dolph
A Moment of Reflection Thank you for your thought provoking
Christian Harder Fritz Lowrey
Reese Martin Travis McElnavey
With our seventh issue, I've been letter, Mike, er, Minerva. I hope to see Matt McGunigle Chris Miller
Steve Parker Patrick Paul
seriously reflecting on the issues that lead you in your full glory at the Snow Valley Matt Pollard Rob Stauder
Cindy Stigall Brandon Thau
us to start mOthEr rOck more than a year Boulderfest on October 4th. Until then, Randy Vogel Todd Vogel
ago. have fun climbing, and go a little easy on
One of our strongest issues was the the lipstick you ugly bastard.
Editorial Advisors
universal hatred of the specious debates Ruth Artz Bob Goff Steve Harris
and controversies that clog too many of Hey San Diego. Darell Palmer Jannine Senior Geoff Wade

the pages of Rock & Ice and Climbing

magazines. We vowed to never go there.
So here we are, in Issue #7, reporting
on the recent bolting controversy at Keller
Peak. Why go where mOthEr rOck vowed
never to go? Because it's an important
story, a story with more than one side; a
story that needs to be told.
Looking out towards the next few
issues, we'll see Reese Martin return for
an article on Central Coast bouldering;
reports from Moderately Moderate's Aaron
Rough on recent road trips; as many topos
to new and obscure So Cal climbing areas
as we can get our grubby little fingers on;
more information on the Second Annual
Snow Valley Boulderfest, which promises
to be the event of the year in So Cal; and
still NO ADVERTISING! (Unless you
count the "ad" for the Boulderfest, which
was donated by mOthEr rOck...so you
can't really call it an ad.)
Until Issue #8, climb hard, climb
safe, and most importantly, have FUN!
MattArtz, Editor
mOthErrOck@aol.com
Letters to the Editor
Dear mOthEr rOck,
I am a drag queen! I have a lot of friends
who are drag queens! When we get
together one of the things we like to do
most is to rock climb. We love nothing
better than the feeling of gripping
something hard, especially when we can
straddle it!
Why don't you write a special column
about drag queens who participate in the
San Diego Correspondents Needed!
mOthEr rOck, Southern California's
Climbing Magazine, desperately needs
information about the climbing
community in the San Diego area!
If you have any info about local
access issues, new areas, new routes, local
events, etc., we would be happy to
consider it for publication in the next
issue of mOthEr rOck. We'll also
consider trip reports and photos if you've
got them. While we can't pay you
anything, we'll send you a few free issues
and maybe some other cool stuff.
Please E-mail mOthErrOck@aol.com
with any information (ascii text files) and
photos (JPEG or GIF). Or send it snail
mail to mOthEr rOck, PO Box 7951,
Redlands, CA 92375-1151. If you'd like
to see examples of what we've published
over the past year, take a look at our Web
site at members.aol.com/mOthErrOck/.
X-Games Wrap-Up
Speaking of San Diego, the 1997 Summer
X-Games came and went, and some great
climbing took place in San Diego. Here's
how the top climbers placed:
Women—Difficulty
1st-Katie Brown (United States)
2nd— Liv Sansoz (France)
3rd- Muriel Sarkany (Belgium)
Men—Difficulty
1st— Francois Legrand (France)
2nd- Yuji Hirayama (Japan)
3rd—Chris Sharma (United States)
Copyright © 1997 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group. All
rights reserved. mOthEr rOck magazine is published six
times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to climb
somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951,
Redlands, CA, 92375-1151 USA. E-mail:
mOthErrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGroup@aol.com.
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send
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Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll
consider it. We're a no budget operation, so send a
SASE if you need your materials back. Photo
submissions also welcome. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com
and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you
have not yet figured that out, you're an idiot and you
should probably stop climbing now before you hurt
yourself and others. And if you think you can bet your
life or safety on anything you read in mOthEr rOck,
think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any
of the information contained in these pages, and cannot
be held responsible in any way for any of your actions,
acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's
the way it should be. You're a climber after all.
On the Cover.
Rob Stauder gives Aaron Rough a spot
while attempting the first ascent of a route
called The Chokie, on the Matilda Boulder
at a fabulous new granite bouldering area
in So Cal. For more sneak previews, see
the article on page 6. All pleading
requests to mOthEr rOck staff for
information on the exact location of this
new area—which currently holds less than
40 routes, but has potential for hundreds
more—will be ignored, unless accompanied
by acceptable quantities of good beer.
Photo by Matt Artz.

mOthEr rOck#6 Page 1 May/June 1997

 New Bolting Controversy at Keller Peak
By Matt Artz
Editor's Note: This is a tough call for mOthEr rOck magazine.
We debated quite a bit over whether or not to get involved in the
latest bolting controversy at Keller Peak. We decided to go ahead
and run this story, because it really needs to be told.
I was supposed to go climbing on a particular Sunday in May,
but decided instead to take a much-needed rest day. On Monday, I
had lunch with my two frequent partners, Rob Stauder and Matt
McGunigle, and asked them how their afternoon of climbing on
the Hungover Wall at Keller Peak had gone the previous day.
"It was pretty ugly," they said. "There was a guy there with a
drill. He bolted the cracks!"
I gagged on a piece of burrito that clogged my windpipe.
As the oxygen quickly depleted from my brain and I began to lose
consciousness, I wondered...had I passed out and woken up in
Europe, home of the bolted crack?
That evening, I talked to Brad Singer, former vice president
of the Rim of the World Climbing Club (ROWCC) and activist
in the San Bernardino Mountains. I mentioned the crack bolting
story, with a caveat that I had not verified it and hoped it wasn't
true. His reaction was one of shock, horror, outrage, and deep
sadness. I could almost hear his stomach churning over the
phone. This was going to get ugly, I thought. But then again,
maybe that's what was needed.
Keller Peak: A History of Bolting Controversy
Some people reading this article may not be familiar with the
history of what most So Cal climbers know as "Keller Peak."
The "Hungover Wall" on Keller Peak Road has been climbed in
trad style for years. Then, in 1989, Troy Mayr and some friends
decided to bring rap-bolted sport climbs to So Cal in a big way.
Although none of the bolts were chopped, the sentiments of
locals were made clear in Mike Rigney's self-published "Guide to
the Crags of Keller Peak" and his letter to Rock & Ice. Time
healed most of the bad feelings, but people will remember the
controversy for a long time. Note the nice 5.10b hand-bolted
route at Kindergarten Rock named "Children Should Not Use
Power Tools" put up shortly after the 1989 rap-bolting at Keller
Peak...
So when McGunigle and Stauder told me they had asked the
bolter, "Are you sure this is a good idea" while he was placing
the bolts, and he had responded "Oh, I checked with Troy, and he
said it was OK," I got a little sick to my stomach too. I
sincerely doubted Troy would have said that. But even if he
hadn't, this wasn't going to do anyone any good.
"I would be leary of someone trying to say 'Troy said it was
OK,'" said Aaron Rough, mOthEr rOck Associate Editor.
"Besides, why would Troy want a 5.8 crack bolted?"
Within a couple of days, ROWCC members had removed
most of the offending bolts & patched the holes. Travis
McElvaney, ROWCC president, told me that "most bolts have
been removed already, but we decided to leave a few of the face
climbs alone. What glory is there in bolting lines that have been
TR routes for years?"
The bolter was soon identified as Gary Henning. Mike
Rigney, Pat Brennan, and Brad Singer of the ROWCC contacted
Henning and made their position clear. They welcomed him to
come pick up his gear, but he'd need to talk to them first.
mOthEr rOck #7
I talked to Henning a week or so later, and asked him to
explain his actions for the readers of mOthEr rOck. "I contacted
Troy before last winter. We discussed the bolting of the toprope
climbs. He thought it would probably be OK as he knew the
anchors on many of the climbs had to be replaced and that
(bolting) the toprope problems was not likely to cause much of a
problem.
"I made a huge mistake in not checking out the back of the
book!!! I had assumed all the routes were first done by Troy. He
called me after he heard they were bolted and told me that some of
the lines I had done were not even his. I royally screwed up!
"The reason for bolting the cracks was kind of stupid and
spur of the moment. I was replacing anchors on two of them and
some of .the climbers that were there asked if I was going to bolt
them. I told them no, I was just putting in some new anchors.
They then said 'What a drag, it would be fun to lead them,' but
they didn't know how to place gear". I thought about it and
thought, 'Hey, this doesn't seem like a trad area, why not?'"
"I now realize it was incredibly stupid and presumptuous of
me to have bolted them. In my head I am sure I knew it as I was
doing it. I purposefully overdrilled the holes so the bolts could
be knocked back into the rock if they were to be pulled.
"I think I would not have bolted them had there not been the
guys asking for them to be. I had no intention of going there to
bolt the cracks, and I felt quite guilty after I left.
"I have met with Brad, Mike, and Pat. We discussed the
situation and I apologized for my stupidity. They felt the face
climbs could stay.
"The intent of bolting the existing lines was not to take
anything away from anyone who had climbed them before.
Rather, it was to allow others to have some more leads in an area
that is quite enjoyable.
"I hope this issue is resolved now. I let the ROWCC guys
know that I recognize the action for a stupid one and it will not
be repeated."
Round Two: Tunnel Mountain
Meanwhile, Gary has published a guide to a new area he and
partner Brent Webster have developed. "Tunnel Mountain"
consists of 33 bolted routes, up to three pitches long, on the
cliffs next to the tunnel near Mt. Williamson.
The climbs and the area are controversial because of their
proximity to the highway. "The possibility of rockfall onto the
road below is high and even one accident could jeopardize
climbing in the area and cause the type of controversy concerning
climbing activities that nobody wants," said Randy Vogel of the
Access Fund. Added Reese Martin, "It's the potential for
stonefall and climbers dropping stuff onto the road, and
subsequent intervention by CALTRANS or the Sheriff to 'solve'
the problem that concerns us. We are concerned that a closure is
the only sure way the authorities have to limit liability of a
hazard they know exists. Worse yet, the closure could easily be
extended to Mt. Williamson because of enforcement difficulties,
and negatively influence climbers negotiating with the USES
over a new trail & toilets at Mt. Williamson."
(article continued on page 6)
Page 2 July/August 1997
 |p mothfr
News from Southern California and Vicinity
1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest Planned
Mark your calendars: the Rim of the World Climbing Club's
second annual Snow Valley Boulderfest is planned for October
4th, 1997. In addition to the 80+ problems unveiled at Snow
Valley West at last year's comp, attendees this year will be
treated to dozens of new problems at Snow Valley West, and
close to a hundred new problems scattered between two new areas:
Snow Valley South, and Snow Valley East. Snow Valley South
features Sucking on a Deadman 's Brain on the fabulous Vampire
Boulder, V6 or so, and a new V8 problem recently put up by
Wills Young-the new area testpiece.
Photo: Malt Art?
Aaron Rough low on Orca, a Snow Valley West classic.
This year, boulderfest promises to bigger, better, and more
organized than ever. Participation is limited to the first 200
people who register, and the registration fee includes a t-shirt,
dinner, and live music. For an entry form, see the next issue of
mOthEr rOck magazine; visit the mOthEr rOck Web site; or
check with local climbing retailers.
-Matt Artz
County Line Crags
Ridgecrest has one spot that has received development since early
this year. The County Line Crags are located a few miles out of
Ridgecrest on some dirt roads up in the foothills near the Shell
mOthEr rOck#l
Notebook
station in Pearsonville. Scott Loomis has written a mini-guide
to the area for Rock & Ice. The rock varies from overhanging
semi-choss to exquisitely clean and crisp granite. There is only
one 5.8 and everything else is mid-5.10 and up. More
development has taken place since the topo appeared in Rock &
Ice, and more is expected when the weather is cooler.
Also in the same area, just a draw north of the County Line,
is Speedway Corridor. Though not as extensive as the County
Line Crags, there are some quality routes including some cracks.
--Brandon Thau
Bouldering is the Word
Bouldering is happening all over the Southland. The areas of
recent development include Horse Flats, Black Mountain, the
Tram Boulders, and some stuff in Big Bear. I have also heard of a
lot of new routes going in up in Big Bear. Chris Miller has been
doing some of the new route development.
There is, of course, all the problems with bolting at Keller
Peak (see article on previous page). People have been going
crazy. They have bolted the cracks, old bold lines, and little piss
ant variations. I think many of these bolts have been removed
already, but it seems a little crazy.
-Reed Bartlett
Big Bear Pinnacles Update
This in an update for everyone who climbs at the Pinnacles in
Big Bear. I made a recent trip up to the area and made a
disturbing observation. Many of the routes that receive lots of
traffic are missing holds. I believe this is due to the gigantic
amount of traffic this area is seeing and the friable nature of the
rock. I personally had holds bust on me on several routes,
including The Incinerator, 5.1 Id; Road Crew, 5.1 Ib/c; and Bucket
Loader, 5.10c. I also noted fresh rock scars on Coyotes At
Sunset, 5.8. If you frequent the area, you might have noticed
this; but if you haven't, don't say you weren't warned!
--Aaron Rough
Hueco Who1?
The Happy Boulders, near Bishop, California, have been talked
about for years, but never like they have recently. The upcoming
guidebook to the area, currently being prepared by Vertical Brain
Publications, promises to be a big seller, and give the area the
exposure it deserves. Meanwhile, for those (like me) who can't
wait, Vertical Brain is giving us a teaser on the World Wide Web.
Point your browser to the following URL, where they've posted
topos and route information for the Paco the Weasel Boulder.
httD://www.climbnet.com/fish/sbm.html
-Matt Artz
Page3 July/August 1997

The Open Book: A Classic
I just wanted to rant and rave a little bit about the climb my
partner and I did today, The Open Book. I'll admit, I have done
several other routes at Tahquitz: Sahara Terror, Angel's Fright,
Finger Trip, Jensen's Jaunt, Left Ski Track, etc. But after every
one of these climbs, while walking back to our packs, I always
stopped to look at that F&%*ING AWESOME dihedral. I'm not
ashamed to admit it put the "Fear Of God" in me! I had hard
enough times on the 5.7's at that place! But, never the less, I
finally got out of the shower today and noticed I had a nut sack,
and decided to do it!
The first pitch, a 5.7 overhang, was scary: the dihedral was
classic, and committing to the flake was hard, but the crux pitch
was soon over and I was lounging in style on the great seat for
the top of the first belay. My partner, Greg Harrt, cruised up to
lead the second pitch, which was cool. Steep, exposed, and
f&%*ing offwidth! He cruised and placed several large pieces-I
swear I saw a #5 and a couple of #4's in the crack.
Next was the slick third pitch with easy fun moves on that
slick orange rock. The roof at the end of that pitch was fun and
the belay quite kosher! Next was the chimney and 5.8 traverse,
which is unprotected right above the belayer's head!. Greg decided
not to do it. I believe what he said to me was, "I don't like to
lead on that slick stuff unprotected, why don't you lead it?" Now
I'll admit, I've done some runout stuff, but to go so far as to say I
liked it? I don't think so, but since our only other option was
BASE JUMPING the thing, and I didn't have a parachute, I was
stuck! So I wormed my way up the chimney and found a nice
EASY traverse across the top of the dike system. The crack I
traversed to was easy, and then up was another chimney. Up
that, pull the top yanking on some chicken heads, and WOW! I
found a bolted belay! Cool! So I put a quickdraw on it and
cruised right by it to the top. Greg soon joined me and we began
the descent. You know what, this time while standing at the
base of that F&%*ING AWESOME dihedral, I wasn't scared. I
looked up, and for the first time I saw the truely incredible climb
for what it was, a CLASSIC!
-Aaron Rough
New V9 at The Buttermilks
On the XLR8R Boulder at the Buttermilks, Tom Klinefelter has
put up a new hard problem: XLR8R goes at V9.
-Matt Artz
Eastern Sierra Update
There's really not much going on up here, climbing-wise. It's
been a pretty good Spring, a bit stormy; the Gorge is nice, but
on the hot days you need to seek shady routes (of which there are
many), and perhaps siesta during the hotest hours. A new Sierra
Eastside guidebook is in the works and will cover from Whitney
Portal all the way past Mammoth.
In the Sierra backcountry, Spring is still springing. There's
lots of snow above 11,000 feet. Even though we didn't get much
precipitation after January, we're still winding up above normal.
This means that backcountry climbers still need to think about
snow complicating their approaches, and avalanches-especially
late afternoon and during warm spells. Recent avalanche activity
has occured during thunderstorm cycles. It should shape up to be
mOthEr rOck #7
a great backcountry season, with good snow in the gullies. The
Mountaineer's Route on Mt. Whitney is still full of snow as of
mid-June. Snow on any aspect other than gullies is becoming
quite sun-cupped, making travel difficult.
A fine crop of baby rattlesnakes has been observed recently
in the Buttermilk Country.
—Todd Vogel
The Buttermilks. Watch out for the baby rattlesnakes.
Second Annual SSCA Slide Show A Huge
Success!
The second annual SSCA slide show went well. The day started
with shoe demos by Scarpa, 5.10, Boreal and La Sportiva.
Climbers were able to check out shoes and try them at the
Needles or Dome Rock for the day. At about 6:30 p.m., the
dinner hour started and Pete Brewer offered a burger, salad, corn
on the cob, and a drink for $6.00.
The SSCA set up an information and sign up booth, and
supplied climbers with brochures, newsletters and information on
the goals and purpose of the SSCA, the Access Fund, the World
Climbing Association, and Leave No Trace. A small preshow
raffle was held in which lucky climbers won a new rope, t-shirts,
hats, chalk, PowerBars, Cliff Bars, and much more.
After dinner and raffle, Richard Leversee presented a
wonderful slide show/retrospective on his years of adventure
climbing in the Sierra. The reaction by most reviewers: "Great
show, I liked Richard's combination of narrative and images. He
answered a lot of nagging questions, told some funny stories and
dazzled us with some awesome shots." Post slide show
entertainment was provided by The Cactus Pricks, featuring Al
Bartlett, Todd Gordon, and Don Reed. They played some great
Rock and Roll. Unfortunately, we didn't get them started early
enough and they were only able to play about an hour after the
show before the crowd thinned and snuck off for another day of
classic Needles climbing.
Thanks to all who attended. If you didn't make it this year,
come on up next year; it's gonna be even better!
-Patrick Paul
Stoney Point Clean-up Set for November 9th
Stoney Point has been a premier climbing spot for Southern
California for decades. Unfortunately, through time, the large
number of visitors there has taken its toll. UCLA Outdoor
Adventures is organizing a "Stoney Point Clean-up" for
November 9th. Check the next issue ofmOthEr rOck for details!
—Diane Chakmak and Jason Ballas
Page 4 July/August 1997

Tnod.er3.ts . .
by
Aaron
Rough
^X^iWSplll™|BMB^KSH
Sundance, 5.10b/c, 3 Pitches
Suicide, California
A'll be honest, So Cal's Suicide scares me. I haven't done that
many climbs there, but the ones I've done have led me to believe
they don't call it "suicide" for nothing. Don't get me wrong, the
place is incredible! Just very intimidating. So when I decided I
wanted to do Sundance, 5.10b/c and a 3-star classic route, I was a
little nervous.
The Sunshine Wall is the big shield-like buttress just left of
the ever-popular Weeping Wall and houses arguably some of the
countries most intimidating routes. (At least for us moderate
types!) I'm sure you've heard of Valhalla, it's the next route to
the right from Sundance. The Iron Cross is a few routes to the
left. Insomnia, that incredibly scary-looking crack, can be seen
from the Sunshine Wall. When you look up from the base, you
can understand why Valhalla was the entrance exam for becoming
one of the Stonemasters.
I got a crazy idea to do Sundance after having some success
on many of the Weeping Wall routes. I contacted my sometimes
partner, Erik Husbands, to see if he was game, but to my
chagrin, he had plans for the intended weekend. So I pretty much
wrote it off as another delusion of grandeur, but on Saturday
night I got a call from Erik saying it was a go. We decided to
meet at his house bright and early so we could get a jump on the
route and get home with some time to spare.
I arrived at Erik's house at 6:45 a.m. and he was supposed to
be up and waiting. Well, the house was devoid of light, so I
knocked on the door...no answer. I then knocked on his
window...groaning ensued, so I knew he was there. Turns out
our plans for a bright and early start were shot down by a "faulty"
alarm clock. I was skeptical! After half an hour of teeth
brushing and bagel munching, Erik was ready to go.
With the late start, we rolled into Suicide's parking area at
8:30 a.m. That still wasn't too bad, and the weather was looking
perfect. We started the hike in, and somehow with all our
talking, we missed the trail turnoff. Don't ask me how, all I
know is we're bush whacking through the Enchanted Forrest
without a trail in sight. I was in sandals and let me tell you pine
needles, morning dew, plus sandals equals grouchy and pissed off!
After an hour of slipping and sliding, we managed to make it to
the base of the rock directly under the Buttress Of Cracks. Turns
out the trail was about 50 feet to the right of us the whole time.
(Uh, I'm not a smart man!) Maybe they should paint the trail
neon blue or yellow for us trail-impaired people.
mOthEr rOck#l
We hike to the base of our route and look up, FEAR! The
initial 5.7 corner looks nice, but from there the wall steepens and
seems to be devoid of features. We sit down to catch our breath
and sort our gear. We decide on Erik leading the 1st pitch, with
me taking the 2nd crux pitch 5.10b/c, and then Erik finishing the
leading on the Sundike Variation pitch 5.10a.
With Erik roped up and ready to go, I put him on belay to
start cranking. He cruises the initial corner easily and is soon at
the 5.8 'strenuous' section. He tells me to watch him then
proceeds to go up, then down, back up, back down... After 15
minutes of this, he calls down that he doesn't want to commit to
the thing, and he sets up a belay at the top of a pinnacle directly
below the lieback. I clean the first portion up to Erik and get my
first view of the lieback. It's steep, rounded, slick, and with bad
pro. To make things worse, the pinnacle ledge is directly
underneath the lieback and a fall would result in impacting the
ledge. I'm not happy about having to lead it, but I have no real
choice. I place a #7 Lowe Tri-Cam and commit to it. The 1st
few moves are slick and the edge your liebacking off of is round
but if you keep going and don't stop it's not too bad. So after 15
feet of tension, I'm soon relieved when I pull the top and reach
Log Ledge. I bring Erik up and he manages to get too far above
the #7 to get it out so I have to lower him down so he can pull
it, but that doesn't slow us down too much.
Pitch #2 involves taking off from Log Ledge and pulling up
a tricky headwall (crux) to a small ledge with a pin driven in it.
Its about 20 feet up and you have no pro between Log Ledge and
the pin, so it's best not to fall! So what did I do? I fell. Not
too bad, I was only about 5 feet off when I blew off and landed
back on the ledge. I started back up and finally got it. From
here the wall steepens and the holds go away. The topo gives the
rest of the pitch several 5.9 cruxes and bolts seem to be 15' to
20' apart! The climbing is smearing and mantling on slick
Suicide Granite. I start up and get in a rhythm. Smear, mantle,
smear, mantle. I sling a chicken head and clip 5 bolts to the top
of this section and am faced with a 5.9 traverse on nothing. Well
OK, there are a few smears and sloppy dishes but it looks pretty
hairball to a large flake about 20 feet to the right. I start across
and am feeling pretty good until right before pulling the flake.
Somehow I manage to get so crossed up and pretzelled that I can't
move! I'm standing 20 feet out from my last bolt and am
smearing both feet and pulling on 2 slopers. I freak. I reach
down to grab a TCU to put in the crack under the flake... I look
at my foot just in time to see it slip off it's hold...FALLING!
Now falling is a necessary evil to good climbing, but exposed
falling is scary. I mean looking down several hundred feet and
facing a 20 foot pendulum fall is not what I consider to be a walk
in the park. I was so scared, I ended up holding on to the TCU
during the whole fall and I didn't let go of it! It was clean air and
I was OK, but my hat I WAS wearing took the eject route and
was gently floating down the wall. Amazingly enough it landed
on Log Ledge and Erik retrieved it.
It took a couple of seconds for me to compose myself but I
had to get back on the horse! So I cruise back up and start the
traverse....except this time I don't get crossed up and pull the
flake without any probs. From here its 60 feet of unprotected
face climbing leading to chain anchors. I block out the exposure
and soon am finished. Erik cruises up and has just three words
for me: "Nice fucking lead!"
Erik is up next and his pitch leads out a left traversing dike
system that is slick and fairly well protected at the crux. The last
Page5 July/August 1997
 30 to 40 feet is unprotected and he (and I) is relieved when he Matilda Boulder. But not only is there a plethora of moderate
calls "OFF BELAY!" I follow up the pitch and am amazed that problems to choose from, each moderate problem is named, rated,
it is possible to smear on such slick rock, but I make it to the and well-mapped!
top and see Erik set up his belay directly under the Paisano
Overhang.
We walk over to the rap ledge for the descent and wait in line
to get down. The group in front of us allows us to use their
ropes to get down and were soon at the base of the Weeping
Wall. Only 1 problem. Erik had taken his shoes off at the ledge
up top and now the ropes were pulled! So "Shoe Boy" was faced
with a dilemma. We started yelling at a group of climbers
finishing up Serpentine and they agreed to bring his shoes down
for us. A half hour later, Erik (with his shoes) and I were headed
down the trail back to the car. A couple of beers and awesome
tacos at Senior Rubens finished off the day. We sat around for an
hour or two staring at Tahquitz and Suicide, wondering how long
it would take us to get back for our next adventure.
Guidebook reference: Tahquitz & Suicide, by Randy Vogel and
Bob Gaines, pages 120 & 122.
Photo: Jeff Brenner

Aaron Rough has been climbing for three years, and lives in Matt Artz on the first ascent o/Jah Nutsack, 5.8, Rasta Wall.
Highland, CA with his wife and daughter. He can be reached by Look for a new guidebook to the area to be published by
E-mail at roughitl@aol.com. mOthEr rOck Press in the Fall or Winter of 1997. Like all other
mOthEr rOck guidebooks to date, it will be moderately priced so
New Mountain Bouldering Area we can make sure we lose money on it.
Coming Soon!
Yeah, I know what you're thinking...just what Southern
California neeeds, another new bouldering area. Ha ha!
Seriously, though, you can never have enough quality
bouldering. And what better place than in your backyard?

Photo: MattAm

Aaron Rough on a project called Brow Beater.

Keller Peak, Tunnel Mountain

Rob Stauder attempts the crux of The Chokie, on the Matilda Boulder.
Bouldering has much to offer climbers of all abilities. What
can be most frustrating about bouldering for moderate climbers is
the lack of moderate routes at many bouldering destinations. In
most cases, the routes are there... they're just not listed and rated
in the guide. So moderate climbers are stuck trying to figure it
out on their own. It's hard to push your limits within reasonable
bounds when you have no clue what a problem is rated.
This new area is being developed with the moderate climber
in mind. Sure, there's hard stuff...like The Chokie (see photo
above, and cover photo), and some of the other stuff on the
(continued from page 2)
Although the controversy is far from over, Henning is trying
to work with concerned local climbers. Henning has invited
several local climbers to tour the area with him, and has proposed
that he revisit the site to extensively clean the routes in question.
"I will climb each one and ensure that there is nothing (left) to
come off," said Henning. Responded Martin, "his offer to clean
the routes is a good starting point. And that the cleaning will
ensure that there is nothing to come off, I disagree! You know
what the rock is like out there-small stuff will always come
down."
Because Henning is now in Canada for six weeks or so, the
tour will not occur until at least late August when he returns. So
a quick resolution is not likely.
In the next issue of mOthEr rOck, we'll give our readers an
update on efforts by local climbers on both sides to reach a
compromise on the issue of keeping Tunnel Mountain open.

mOthEr Page 6 July/August 1997

 Dawn Patrol
Imagine Joshua Tree National Park All To Yourself...
by Matt Artz
Thursday, May 15th. Why was my alarm going off at the
ungodly hour of 4:15 a.m.? Oh, yeah, I was supposed to go
bouldering on my way to work. But the three hours of sleep I
got wasn't cutting it. I decided to do that fatal thing so many
people do in this kind of situation: "I'll just close my eyes and
rest for five more minutezzzzzz..."
Only a minute or two in to it, my wife was seemingly
screaming in my ear "Aren't you supposed to go climbing?" She
wasn't yelling of course—she was actually asking very politely in
a near whisper, but it sure shattered my peaceful state as well as
any screaming could have. O.K., maybe I should actually get up
and do this thing. Got to save face and all. Maybe I'll just go
out and scope a few areas I've never seen before.
By 4:30 a.m., all the junk was in the car, including the
essentials like a change of clothes, deodorant, my briefcase, and
about 20 CDs. Oh, yeah, climbing shoes, chalk bag, and tape.
This all started about a year ago, the summer of 1996, when
Matt McGunigle and I needed a change to our Tuesday/Thursday
dawn workouts at Mt. Rubidoux. "Joshua Tree," I said, at first
almost in jest. "It won't get too hot out there until about 8,
8:30. We could be in to work by 10, 11 at the latest." After I
talked him in to it, I managed to talk myself into it as well. We
adopted the term "Dawn Patrol" for our insanity, and on one early
morning session at Real Hidden Valley even coincidentally ran
across some graffiti that said "Dawn Patrol" scrawled on a
concrete picnic table. It was then sealed in stone. We weren't
Stonemasters, were Dawn Patrollers. We couldn't lead Valhalla,
but we damn sure could get up at four o'clock in the morning to
go climbing!
Phoic?: Mall Arc
Real Hidden Valley, 1996:
The graffiti that sealed our fate and gave us our name.
This time, though, I was by myself. It was getting
increasingly difficult to find partners to join me in my temporary
mOthEr rOck #7
insanity. They claimed their schedules were too busy. But I
knew the truth: the thought I should be committed. Whatever.
With the sun rising over the windmill-covered hills and the
Beastie Boys screaming "So Whatcha Want?" inside the car at full
volume, J-Tree autopilot easily guided me to my destination.
By 6 a.m., I was in the Hidden Valley parking lot, scoping a
few of the boulders that didn't have campers snoring at the bases.
Caveman, B2—a long, overhanging traverse on Huecos through a
cave—was a lovely looking problem that reminded me of the
lower (easier) half of Latin Swing, 5. lib, on the Solosby
formation in Real Hidden Valley. There were a couple good
looking moderates here as well, including Split Grain, a 5.8
arete, and Bushwhack, a 5.9+ lieback crack. There are lots of
problems in this area, but it can be pretty limiting when the
campsites are occupied, which is about 365 days a year. I bailed.
/ love the smell of Joshua Trees in the morning...
Off to Echo Cove, to check out the problems there. It was
perfect. It was starting to warm up, and nobody was camping at
the bases of the problems. I tried to warm up on the Arete
Boulders, which are rated "5.9 to 5.10+; many problems" in
Craig Fry's guide, but had no luck. (Later, back at the car, Mari
Gingery's guide told me why: I had been attempting to warm up
on a couple of 5.1 Ib/c problems. Ooops. Was I sandbagged, or
just stupid?). I then moved to the fabulous Echo Cove Thin
Crack, a right-slanting 5.1 Ib or so. On my third try, at the crux
with both hands in the thinnest usable part of the crack, I moved
my feet up and was ready to commit to the move up to the
"good" hold higher up, after which it would supposedly get
easier. Suddenly, one of my feet popped, and I landed poorly on a
sharp rock, tweaking my right ankle. In pain, I immediately
changed back in to walking shoes. Things didn't look good.
That was probably it for the day, if not a couple of weeks.
Page? July/August 1997
 If I couldn't climb, at least I could check out some of the
other bouldering Josh had to offer. Next, off to the Peyote
Cracks on the Baby Apes formation across from Echo Rock.
What a disappointment. These cracks looked do-able—5.8 to
5.1 la, with the cruxes down low—but they were horribly high, up
to 30 or maybe 35 feet. Call me pussy, but there was no way I'd
touch these without a toprope. By this time the throbbing pain
in my ankle had almost completely subsided, so maybe it was
time to check out something more to my liking.
I had never been to the Joshua Tree tourist trap known as
Barker Dam, but nobody in their right mind would be there at
6:45 a.m. So off to the Barker Dam trail I went, to look for
wildlife and try a few problems. Near the parking area, the Indian
Wave boulder had an interesting problem to offer, called Old
Wave, 5.1 la or b. Too bad I didn't have the energy to pull the
first move. To the northeast was a boulder more to my liking. I
flashed Liquid Wrench, 5.10d, a traverse up a large flake. On this
same formation, Chicken Wing has to be one of the most
interesting moderate boulder problems I've ever done. Have you
ever done a 5.9 that gets you horizontal? The start is a huge
pinch with the right hand and a small face hold with the left hand;
the right foot is heel-hooked under, and the left foot dangling.
From this position, you move up to a right-slanting crack on the
face above. This climb was very strange, in a good way.
The dam itself was a bust. While I didn't expect Lake
Michigan, what I saw was a 40 foot by 40 foot pool of muck,
inhabited by two ducks and numerous mosquitoes. And the worst
part was that the big boulder protruding from the muck looked
like it might have a good moderate problem or two on it.
Where hardmen play: the amazing Gunsmoke traverse.
On the second half of the loop, I swung by the Piano
Boulder. Piano Rock Crack, 5.8/9, was a nice crack but pretty
OTD-maybe 25 feet up. On the other side of the trail, The
Tube, 5.10d, looked like a nice slanting crack to a fairly sick
mantel. I then walked over to the famous Gunsmoke, a classic
long 5.11 traverse. Working on pieces for a while, I noticed how
smooth all the holds were—this route obviously sees heavy
traffic, and I can understand why. It's beautiful.
It was getting hot, and getting late. I quickly jogged back to
the car, doused my head with water, used my smelly shirt as a
towel, changed in to my work clothes, and dabbed on a little
deodorant to mask at least part of the stink. It was 8:30 a.m.
mOthEr rOck#l
Except for a quick pit stop at Del Taco in Yucca Valley for a
breakfast of chicken soft tacos and a caffeine-blaster 32 ounce
Diet Coke, it was a straight shot back to Redlands. I was in to
work by 10:15 a.m., had no voicemail messages, only 41 E-
mail messages, and nobody even seemed to miss me.
Another 200 miles on the car, and I had only done a few
problems. But the morning had been an overwhelming success,
taking me to a whole slew of new problems. Sitting at my desk,
staring cross-eyed at the skin pealing from my hands and drinking
my fifth Diet Coke in a futile attempt to stay awake, I couldn't
help but think: isn't it wonderful to be a climber living in
Southern California?
Matt Artz is editor o/mOthEr rOck magazine. He can be reached
by E-mail at motherrock@aol.com.
New San Bernardino Mountain Climbing Area
Aztec Pond in Cedar Glen
Aztec Pond is at the end of Hook Creek Road just out of Cedar
Glen in the San Bernardino Mountains. This area is best known
as "Devil's Hole," a fishing hole that is used regularly during
fishing season. The U.S. Forest Service plowed a road and
parking lot, and put in day use tables and restrooms this last
winter. Climbing is mostly cracks, 5.8 to 5.11, and short face
climbs just off the creek.
—Travis McElvaney
Access Update
Bishop Peak on Track, But Help Still Needed
As mentioned in mOthEr rOck #6, access to Bishop Peak in San
Luis Obispo is through private property. The land owner has
never had any problem with people using his land, but now the
land owner wants to sell his Bishop Peak Ranch, a 138 acre
parcel that contains the only access to the climbing and
bouldering. Two parties are interested in the land: a private
developer, and the City of San Luis Obispo.
The Sierra Club, in conjunction with the Access Fund (are
you a member yet?) and the city of San Luis Obispo are trying to
raise the funds for this 138 parcel purchase. The city of SLO is
negotiating with the owner of Bishop Peak Ranch to secure the
purchase. These negotiations indicate that $500,000 to
$750,000 will be required to culminate the deal. San Luis
Obispo has applied for two grants, totaling $450,000, but has yet
to secure the required matching funds for these grants.
This 138 acre purchase will provide permanent access to the
Bishop Peak climbing, not to mention the continuation of the
aesthetic value of quaint San Luis Obispo.
Fundraising efforts are going well. "So far, so good," said
local climbing activist Matt Pollard. "The Sierra Club has
collected about $36,000 (as of mid-May)." But more help is still
needed.
There's still time to help preserve access to this noteworthy
So Cal climbing area. To make a tax deductible donation, you
can send a check to the Santa Lucia Chapter of the Sierra Club
(PO Box 15755, San Luis Obispo, CA 93406). If you're
strapped for cash, you can still help by writing a letter to the
Access Fund, asking them for their support.
Page 8 July/August 1997
Bummed?
DAMN!
I can't believe
I missed the
Snow Valley
Boulderfest!
I'm such an
IDIOT!

Relax. Here's your second chance.

The Rim of the World Climbing Club announces the
Second Annual Snow Valley Boulderfest
Saturday, October 4th, 1997
200+ boulder problems and topropes
Fun. Food. Live music. Booty.

For more information and an entry form, see your local climbing shop or the September/October issue of
mOthEr rOck magazine. Call 909-338-1342; Mail to P.O. Box 3283, Blue Jay, CA 92317. Or visit the
official 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest Web site at http://members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf/index.html
 Brew of the Month
Samuel Adams Summer Ale
By Heather Dolph
If you're a die-hard brew fan like myself—I was even a "beer
snitch" as a child—the words "flavored beer" have the power to
give you the heebie-jeebies, evoking images of snotty Northern
California or Seattle microbreweries with their raspberry- or
chocolate-tinged concoctions (the latter inviting comparisons to
the astro-treat "Space Food Sticks" from the late 1960's, only
with fermentation added). Sometimes the whole aura around
flavored beer just gets too utterly foo-foo for my taste, and I
retreat into more familiar territory.
Look for this label wherever fine brews are sold.
Upon visiting the Samuel Adams Web site at
http://www.samadams.com. however, history is brought to light,
and the foo-foo aura is lessened, if not completely dissipated.
Apparently the practice is centuries old, with brewers using fruit
and spices to stabilize beer long before hops came onto the scene.
Go figure.
Striking resemblance or copyright infringement? An album cover
from The Pogues looks surprisingly like the Samuel Adams Summer
Ale label when viewed in poor light and a drunken stupor.
Summer Ale is Samuel Adams' interpretation of the classic
white ales, which originated in Belgium in the 14th century, and
were brewed with coriander, juniper berries and orange peel. They
were called "white" because of the suspended wheat proteins
floating around in the beer, contributing to its light cloudiness.
mOthEr rOckWl
Adams' is brewed with lemon zest and a mysterious, centuries-old
essence called "Grains of Paradise," which the cynic in me says is
fancy marketing lingo for "You'll play hell trying to guess what
else we put in here!"
Nevertheless, this brew is crisp and refreshing, with a light
consistency. It definitely does not fall into Christian Harder's
"sandwich in every bottle" category. I prefer to think of it as the
bottled equivalent of a big honkin' slice of watermelon on a hot
day, but without the seeds. Dumping a bucket of ice water on
your heat-exhausted head or a jump in the pool could hardly be
more refreshing.
Another thing I really like is the labeling. A summer brew
that doesn't have to resort to the pretender's campaign of
juxtaposing bikini-clad bimbos with some mutant dog.
So get it while it's hot, LITERALLY: Summer Ale is only
sold May through August. In case you have trouble finding it in
your neck of the woods, the Adams Website has a distributor
locator.
New Guidebook Series Available
Guide Books for Climbers by Climbers
Mobius Publications (the team that brought you The Guide:
Southern California Sport Climbing and The New Jack City
Guide) sets a new standard in climbing guides: the new
Pocketguide Series. These compact guides (4.25in. x 5.Sin.) are
light weight, yet very durable.
They feature a layflat sewn binding, a UV coated cover,
rounded corners, easy-to-read topos, training pyramids, killer
photography and, you guessed it, they fit in your pocket. No need
to lug around a heavy book. Leave the larger books at home on
your coffee table with all the routes you've fired highlighted. It
will impress your friends and amaze your family. With the new
pocketguides, your pack will be amazingly lighter. You will have
more energy to climb harder, stronger, and faster.
The Pocketguide to Williamson Rock is now available at the
usual places. Get It or Get Lost.
--Tony Sweeney, Mobius Publications
Upcoming Comps
The Rock Gym in Long Beach will be hosting a JCCA Junior
Regional Competition on Saturday, July 19th, 1997.
Registration 12:00 p.m. to 1:00 p.m.; competition begins at
1:00 p.m. Fees: $25 for non-JCCA members, $20 for current
JCCA members.
For more information, contact The Rock Gym at 310-983-
5500, or E-mail them at info@therockgym.com.
Page 10 July/August 1997
 The mOthEr rOck Back Page...
Start 'em Young walking," said a beaming dad. "We figure her climbing can only
improve if she learns to stand on her own two feet." If it works
Katie Brown thinks she's so hot. Fifteen years old. Winning for Katie, you may even want to try it yourself, dad!
Phoenix. Redpointing 5.15zzzz. Well move over Katie Brown.
—Max Armpet
You ain't got nothin' on Katie Wade.
You read about the engagement at North Shore Big Bear in
Issue #2. You read about the Buttermilks bachelor party in Issue
#3. And you read about the Forest Falls wedding in Issue #4.
They followed all of the logical steps. The next logical step was
procreation. And procreate they did. Brits Geoff Wade and Jann
Senior gave birth to a sparkling baby girl. They named her Katie
(after Catherine Destaville, says dad). Her destiny was
predetermined. She would climb like a monkey.
They wasted no time in getting her climbing. With a snug
diaper, she was brownpointing 5.2 shortly after birth. Soon,
they changed her diaper and brought her to mOthEr rOck gym.
When she heard the obvious comparisons to Katie Brown, she
got upset. Screw the routes. She went straight for the campus
board (see photo).
Geoff, Jann, and Katie are currently vacationing in Europe,
where Katie is reportedly attempting the first brownpoints of Ben
Moon's classic Om, and Wolfgang Gullich's testpiece Action
Direct. When they return stateside, it's off to Yosemite's Camp
Four boulders for the mandatory attempt at Midnight Lightening.
Says mom, "I hear first ascentionist Ron Kauk still hangs out at
Midnight Lightening sometimes. It would be fun to see him. I
hear he has a really nice arse!"
After this tour de force through Europe, the proud parents
plan to give the wunderkid a rest from climbing for a while.
"Now that she's mastered climbing, we'd like her to work on

southern California's climbing masazine

PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151 USA
A66T

VcX

Editors' Corner
The editor bouldering in J-Tree. Photo: Darell Palmer
A Great Day for So Cal!
The 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest is
BACK IN BUSINESS!!!!!!!!!!!!
On August 14th, 1997, the U.S.
Forest Service denied a permit for the
1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest and Trash
Clean-Up. A botanist had done a study of
the area, and identified the area as habitat
for several threatened plant species. The
Forest Service was worried that having so
many people up there at one time
trampling through the woods would result
in a significant negative impact on the
threatened plant species. Because these
species only bloom in the Spring, it was
difficult to identify where exactly they
were located, and where bouldering could
and could not be allowed for the comp.
The morning of Friday, August 22nd,
1997, Travis McElvany, Jeff Rigney, and
myself, representing the Rim of the World
Climbing Club (ROWCC), met with
three represenatives of the U.S. Forest
Service. We met at Snow Valley West,
so Forest Service officials could witness
first hand the area. Club President Travis
McElvany explained what the ROWCC
was all about, and we then did a walk-
through of Snow Valley West, Snow
Valley South, and Snow Valley East,
showing them the main areas where most
of the climbing would take place during
the Boudlerfest.
The Forest Service representatives
were able to identify a number of concerns
throughout the area-a few of the
threatened plant species were seen, erosion
potential was noted on certain trails, etc.
They also noted with disgust the large
amounts of trash left in the Winter by
people playing in the snow, especially at
Snow Valley South.
Recognizing that the majority of the
climbing activities take place in non-
sensitive habitat, the Forest Service
granted the permit for the 1997
mOthEr rOck #8
Boulderfest. In the Spring of 1998, the
Forest Service will initiate a plant survey
of the area, the results of which will be
used to evaluate permit applications for
future Boulderfests.
The impact of climbing activities on
the threatened species can be completely
negated by the ROWCC, by redirecting
some trails and educating climbers about
the sensitive nature of the area. One
Forest Service official was overheard
saying to another, "I think these guys are
going to do a hell of a lot more good than
bad for the area."
The most seriously threatened plant in
the area-trie Ashey Gray Indian
Paintbrush, which is proposed for Federal
listing as a "Threatened" species—was
found in abundance near a parking area and
straddling an official Forest Service hiking
trail, but was not noted in any of the main
climbing areas. The ROWCC has agreed
to line this trail with rocks where it passes
through the sensitive habitat, to keep the
few climbers and many hikers using the
trail away from the Ashey Gray Indian
Paintbrush.
The ROWCC is also in the process of
officially "adopting" the area. Club
officials will be working with the Forest
Service to write up a management plan for
the area, organize periodic trash clean-ups
(in addition to the annual Boulderfest and
Trash Clean-Up), redirect trails away from
sensitive areas, place signs and other trail
markers, set up baricades to block illegal
off-road activity, remove graffiti,
participate in revegetation projects, etc.
This is a great example of the
positive impacts climbers can have on the
local community, and how we can all
work together with land managers.
As far as the 1997 Snow Valley
Boulderfest and Trash Clean-Up, it will
take place as originally planned on Oct.
4th, 1997. The entry fee is $40 if you
register by September 27th. For the $40,
climbers will get a full day of climbing at
a great new area, a "goodie" bag, a
comprehensive guidebook to the nearly
300 known boulder problems in the area,
an official 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest
tank-top, dinner and live music at the
party after the event, and the opportunity
to win a number of prizes donated by more
than fifteen sponsors.
Page 1
For more information on the 1997
Snow Valley Boulderfest and Trash Clean-
Up, visit the official Web site at:
members.aol.com/amccgroup/97svbf/
You can also request an entry form by
writing to:
ROWCC
P.O. Box 3283
Blue Jay, CA 92317
See you all at Snow Valley!
MattArtz, editor
motherrock® aol. com
southern California's climbing magazine
Publisher
The AMCC Group
Editor
MattArtz
Associate Editor
Aaron Rough
Proofreader
Ruth Artz
Editorial Contributors
Louie Anderson • Max Armpet • Jason Ballas
Reed Bartlett • Diane Chakmak • Amos Clifford
Heather Dolph • Daniel Garcia • Nancy Hampton
Christian Harder • Fritz Lowrey • Reese Martin
Travis McElvany • Matt McGunigle • Chris Miller
Darell Palmer • Steve Parker • Patrick Paul • Matt Pollard
Ed Schmahl • Rob Stauder • Cindy Stigall
Brandon Thau • Randy Vogel • Todd Vogel
Bruce Wiley • Bills Wong
Copyright © 1997 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group. All
rights reserved. mOthEr rOck magazine is published six
times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to climb
somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951,
Redlands, CA, 92375-1151 USA. E-mail:
mOthErrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGroup@aol.com.
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send
a check or money order for $10 to mOthEr rOck/The
AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-
1151. Subscriptions outside of the United States are $20
annually.
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll
consider it. We're a no budget operation, so send a
SASE if you need your materials back. Photo
submissions also welcome. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com
and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you
have not yet figured that out, you're an idiot and you
should probably stop climbing now before you hurt
yourself and others. And if you think you can bet your
life or safety on anything you read in mOthEr rOck,
think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any
of the information contained in these pages, and cannot
be held responsible in any way for any of your actions,
acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's
the way it should be. You're a climber after all.
On the Cover.
Matt McGunigle boulders a fabulous
5.10a traverse at Deadman's Summit,
Eastern Sierra. Photo by Matt Artz.
September/October 1997
 m0triEr «Qe
I :f:"%i
News from Southern California and Vicinity
New Routes at Mentone Boulders
Three new routes have recently gone up at Mentone Boudlers.
For directions and a full topo, see Issue #1 (July/August 1996) of
mOthEr rOck magazine.
A. Unnamed, 5.11d/12a. Five bolts. FA: Louie
Anderson, 1997.
B. Unnamed, 5.12b. Four bolts, finish at anchors to Oso
Smokey. FA: Louie Anderson, 1997.
C. Oso Smokey, 5.12a. Five bolts on arete. FA: Chris
Miller, 1997.
—Louie Anderson
Echo Cliffs
Once the weather cools down, check out Echo Cliffs and the other
areas in the Santa Monica Mountains. At present there are more
than 150 routes out there with room for about a lifetime's worth
of additional routes. Echo Cliffs is just one of several crags out
there, but it is probably the most user-friendly to all levels of
climber (5.9 to 5.13+).
—Louie Anderson
Bolts Missing at Mt. Williamson
On July 20th, 1997,1 was out at Mt. Williamson and climbed
Ganactic, 5.8, at the Ramblin' Wall. Another party had topped
out and, I assumed, would be rapped off of Epitaph long before I
got to the top. So up I went.
I climbed this route a month or so before and found that the
fixed slings and rap rings had been removed from the bolts. No
big deal; I was able anchor, bring up my partners, and lower them
out and squirm around to rap down She's an Addiction on the
Epitaph side of the formation. I brought along some extra slings
and two rings to leave for good Karma if nobody had replaced the
old ones. Trouble was, the bolts at the top had been removed!
This made anchoring in order for my second to climb and
clean a bit tense. I sat in the obvious "saddle" with a runner
clipped to the rings over the side, placing me way off center from
the anchor and none too happy.
Fortunately everyone kept their heads. The party before us
managed to get down to the rings on Rest in Peace and left their
rope for us. Everyone got down with only a bit of whining.
It is fortunate that we had multiple ropes and enough
combined experience to do the semi-unprotected squirm off of the
side without anyone getting too freaked or hurt. Other teams
might not have the same level of experience. Furthermore, the
mOthEr rOck#%
Notebook
bolts weren't chopped since the sleeves were still in place and
looked good. It was as if someone had just unscrewed the bolts
and been done with it. Perhaps a well meaning local plans on
placing nice shuts at the top, but there is nothing to indicate this
from the ground.
-Fritz Lowrey
New Jack City Update
If you have not been to New Jack City yet, it is definitely worth
checking out. I would guess that the total number of routes at
present is hovering around 150 with more going up all the time.
The majority of the developed routes so far are 5.10+ or harder
with at least half of them being 5.11+ or harder. There is vast
potential for more routes here (including routes at an easier grade)
with the ultimate route number potential being almost limitless
(my personal guess would be up around 1,000 routes).
—Louie Anderson
The Roots of New Jack City
I grew up in Barstow and used to ride motorcycles in the canyon
now called New Jack City. In High School, we used to have
bonfire parties out there during the summer. I went out there
about five years ago and toproped some, but couldn't convince
anyone to come and check the place out to develop for climbing.
Then, around three and a half years ago, we were climbing
along side Jack Marshall out on Riders Ready Wall at High
Desert, and I spoke with Jack about this area. I explained to him
how to get there and apparently he went.
I have seen Jack several times over these last few years and
have never questioned his "discovery" of this area. I specifically
told him in hope that he would act on my suggestion and develop
the area. Luckily, I have climbed there since and I bought a guide
to the area from Jack. I think the area is great and holds lots of
potential for further development.
Oh, by the way, we Barstownians, at least the motorcycle
bunch I grew up with, have always called the area "Saw Tooth
Canyon" because of the ragged west ridge of the canyon.
—Daniel Garcia
Tar Creek Bouldering Off Limits
Despite the publicity of Wills Young's recent topo in Rock &
Ice magazine, it is technically illegal to boulder at Tar Creek.
Although Tar Creek is within a "Condor Sanctuary," all of the
condors have since been relocated. Regardless of the fact that it's
a Condor Sanctuary with no condors, the Forest Service doesn't
want people going in. Another great So Cal bouldering
destination lost to bureaucratic stupidity.
If that's not enough of a contradiction, there's more. "I did
some phone calls to get info about Pine Mountain," Young told
me. "Although there have been condors there, the Park Service
did their best to shoo them away, so they gave me the all-clear to
climb there as much as I like!," as it does not have official
Condor Sanctuary designation.
Wills summed it up nicely: "It's a strange, strange world."
-Matt Artz
Page 2 September/October 1997
 Climbing Half Dome in a Day by Brandon Thau
Prerequisites
You'll need at least one strong free climber who must be able to
climb middle to upper 5.10, and who can also do some light aid
(Al) efficiently. The second must be able to jug a fixed line,
clean pendulums, and possibly (but not necessary) follow free
sections.
Equipment
You'll need to take the following equipment:
• ropes of 200 foot length are preferred
• two sets of TCU's (Aliens always preferred)
• two sets of Camalots (.75 to #4)
• one set of Stoppers (#4 to #12)
• ten quickdraws made from slings
• five free biners
• two double length slings
• personal gear (nut tool, locking biners)
Approach
The best way to the base of Half Dome is the slabs approach:
• take the tram to the Mirror Lake trailhead (trams start at
7:30am)
• hike the mile out to Mirror Lake (you could drive if you could
get your hands on a "handicapped" placard...)
• cross to the south side of the river immediately after passing
Mirror Lake (there are usually rocks you can cross on)
• find the old trail (chunks of asphalt) and walk down it for a few
hundred yards; there is a cairn on your right side marking the
start of the slabs approach
• follow the trail and cairns through the forest and to exposed
talus
• the rest of the approach you'll have to find yourself-just follow
cairns as close as possible and expect to do some 3rd and 4th
class, and to climb at least five fixed lines; the approach
traverses east twice and goes straight up the gully towards
Tissaack.
The slabs approach should take about two and a half to three
hours with a light load. I know people who have taken six hours
with heavy loads.
An alternative approach is to take the regular Half Dome
Trail from Happy Isles and before climbing the cables route
descend down the shoulder of Half Dome to the base of the route.
I know the time to descend from the shoulder is about 30 to 45
minutes. I haven't done this approach, but I suspect that it takes
longer than the slabs approach.
The advantage of the slabs route is that you don't have to
deal with tourists asking what you are doing, except for the beer-
toting tourists at Mirror Lake. The slabs route is much shorter
and you get into the adventure of route finding right away. The
regular approach is probably much safer, and the chances of
breaking an ankle on talus are diminished.
Climbing
The Regular Route on Half Dome probably shouldn't be
considered a grade VI, but since it was the first climb in North
mOthEr rOck #8 Page 3
America to receive this grade, I guess it must remain that way.
Other grade V's, such as West Face of El Capitan and Chouinard-
Herbert on Sentinel, take longer than the Regular Route on Half
Dome. The Regular Route takes anywhere from 4 hours and 11
minutes, to five days. The average speed ascent party can do the
climb in between 12 and 17 hours. This assumes that the party
is combining pitches and averaging 30-40 minutes per non-
combined pitch.
You should consider doing the route when there are no other
parties on the route. It is difficult to pass a party and it will slow
you down considerably. When I did the route in July, my partner
and I were hauling ass and arrived at the base of the Zig-Zags in 7
hours, then we ran into a traffic jam with three other multi-day
parties. We couldn't pass them, so we stayed behind them for 5
to 6 hours and got off in a bad thunderstorm full of lightning and
rain. Our time could have been around 10 hours, but it was
extended to 13 or 14 hours because of this obstacle.
If you have 200 foot ropes you should run pitches together,
such as: 2 & 3, 5 & 6, 8 & 9, 10 & 11, 15 & 16, and 19 & 20.
Not all of these pitches run perfectly together, so you must
compromise by setting up a belay in the middle of a pitch.
Usually you can find a fixed pin, put a piece in, pull up all the
slack, fix the rope, and solo off the belay with a Gri-Gri. The
Regular Route has more fixed gear than any other climb I've ever
been on. In fact, on a few pitches I didn't even place my own
gear—I just clipped fixed pins the whole way. At the belays,
don't expect bolts all the time. There are nice 3/8ths inch bolts
on the first six pitches, but after that a lot of the belays consist
of fixed pins.
Suggestions
There are some pitches on the Regular Route that aren't desirable,
the best example being the 5.9 slot on pitch 12. This pitch
really sucks; either trick your partner into taking it, or wear knee
pads (that goes for pitches 13-15 also). Another option is to aid
the 5.1 Ic crack to the left and traverse into the belay. It might
take longer, but you won't be physically and mentally scarred
afterwards.
You can use slings instead of aiders on pitch 10. Aiders are
helpful on the rest of the aid pitches.
After the first six pitches, evaluate your speed. By this point
you have sampled the difficulty of the climb, and can estimate
your speed after this point. Also, this is your last chance to bail
if you are going too slow.
As far as other gear to bring, take a head lamp, some food,
rain gear, and six liters of water for two people. The second can
jug with a pack for all the pitches except for 12 and 21, where
you should haul the pack.
Look at trends in the weather before going. Half Dome is
known for its extreme thunderstorms, and since it is a tall
monolith it makes for a good lightning rod.
Good Luck!
Brandon Thau is a student at Col Poly San Luis Obispo. You
can reach him by E-mail atjthau@oboe.aix.calpoly.edu.
September/October 1997

Ice Follies on the Grand
by Ed Schmahl
Fred carefully front-pointed up the near-vertical greenish icefall
above us, probing for solid pick holds with his ice axe and ice
hammer, raining small showers of ice chips down on me, twenty
or so feet below him. Nervously, I checked the buried ice stake
that protected him and me from a catastrophic slide down the 50-
degree snow couloir we were slowly ascending. For a tad more
protection, I buried my ice axe to the hilt and stamped a bigger
foot platform with my crampons. I stared around at the
surrounding cliffs and the ridiculously steep, ice-choked gully,
thinking, "This isn't exactly what I had in mind when I planned
this hike back in April."
Here we were on the hardest part of the Stettner Couloir,
12,000 odd precipitous feet above sea level, and a couple of
thousand feet below our destination, the "Grand," the highest of
the Tetons. There was at least 1,500 to 1,600 feet more of
unknown country between us and the top. Just what I had been
thinking of a few weeks ago was pretty vague at the moment, but
it involved a solitary stroll with a small pack up the trail below
the Grand Teton from the Garnet Canyon trailhead to near
timberline, then possibly a quiet little bivvy under the trees,
followed by an easy day hike up onto the snow fields in the
canyon below the big peak. Of course the snow was, reportedly,
rather extensive this year, so maybe I'd need to rent crampons to
get up above 11,000 feet, but I could sample the glaciers and,
maybe, with a little luck, climb a smaller arete near the Grand
and explore the lesser acolytes surrounding the Grand's summit.
But I didn't reckon with the power of email and the lure of
the "Grand." No sooner had I mentioned the famous name to Fred
and a couple of other climber friends on the 'Net, it was the
"Exum Direct" this, and the "So-and-so Couloir" that, and the
trip was out of my hands. Fred is an experienced winter climber
of Rocky Mountain peaks, and his Maine brother, Tom, is an
avid ascender of near-vertical ice in the winter wilderness of the
White Mountains. So I was outvoted by acclamation from the
start. It was to be the "Grand" itself, the grandest of the Tetons,
the most alpine of America's lower 48 peaks, rising 7000 feet
from the plains to dominate the range at 13,770 feet. The snow
pack this Spring was about 50% above normal, so at the time of
planning back in April, we had to expect snow and ice for most
of our route on our late June trip.
After some rounds of backing and filling, and bowing outs,
and bowings in, we ended up with four final hiker/climbers for
this ascent. It was to be Fred and Tom as co-honchos, Tom's
friend Peter, and me. I had been hoping that Fred's son, Greg, an
Army Ranger, would make it, because I knew from reports of his
exploits in boot camp that he could carry me and my pack on his
back to the top when the going got tough. But at the last
minute, because of missed flights, he ended up not coming, and
our collective strength was reduced by at least half. I was
devastated. No doubt Fred and Tom would lead us through, but
in case of emergencies, such as terror or exhaustion, I couldn't
count on riding up the cliffs on Greg's back.
During the last weeks before the climb, I struggled to put
together a pack that contained the essentials of Fred's climbing
checklist. I never did figure out what "BLV socks" were, but I
finally filled my pack with lots of warm stuff and flew out west
to meet my climber buddies at their cowboy digs in Jackson
Hole. After much greeting and re-packing of ice boots,
mOthEr rOck#% Page 4
crampons, ice axes, ice screws, snow pickets, Power Bars, and
the like, we hit the sack, and got mentally ready for a dawn start
on the climb.
6:30 a.m., 6,800' at Lupine Meadows Parking Lot
We got lost driving to the trail head-a bad omen-but our
persistence paid off, and soon we were donning packs in the
parking lot. Garnet Canyon trail rises from Lupine Meadows on
the plains directly below Mount Teewinot. Near the trail head,
elk, moose, and antelope graze the fields, while to the west, the
steep slopes plummet down to alpine meadows, where cascading
waterfalls carry snow melt to the Snake River. From the parking
lot, it is seven miles of mosquito-ridden switchbacks out of the
forests through the steep, flowery meadows, up the high snow-
filled canyons, to the col between Middle Teton and the Grand;
this was the "Lower Saddle" (11,600 feet) where we planned to
camp. We hiked this trail in the cool of the morning, through
four miles of mixed pine and fir, lupines and sunflowers, then
turned west into Garnet Canyon and encountered our first snow.
Intermittent for another half mile, the snow became continuous at
around 10,000 feet. From then on, we followed old kicked steps
up the snow fields covering the canyon floor. To either side, up
where the snow steepened and thinned, the grey granite arms of
the peaks lay exposed, their bony ridges shining bare in the warm
sunlight.
Big Mistake
Quite a few fanatic snowboarders and XC-skiers had preceded us
into Garnet Canyon, and were carving tracks into the snowfields
above. At a place we later learned was called the "Meadows," we
stuck to the south side of Garnet Canyon, left of Middle Teton,
following someone's footsteps—someone not bound for the
Grand. Big mistake! None of us was looking at the scenery with
an eye for routes or landmarks. We should have checked the map
or noticed the Middle Teton Glacier, or the signature dike on the
east prow of Middle Teton, the prominent peak standing guard
below its big brother Grand to the north. Obliviously we hiked
on, mesmerized by the excellent snow, stomping into one
another's footsteps up to the saddle to the left of Middle Teton.
Finally, we reached the pass, looked over to the west, checked our
maps, and realized our error. After rejecting the possibility of
traversing Middle Teton, we shouldered our packs, retraced our
steps, and descended down 1,000 feet to round its eastern prow.
The only good part of this back tracking was our passage under a
fine misty waterfall that dripped a rainbow fog off the southwest
buttress. We rested there, then rounded the Dike. Tom's ankle,
still recovering from a 3-month-old fracture, was hurting, so he
donned crampons. I decided to follow suit, and snapped on the
step-in crampons that Fred had loaned me for the climb. After
falling on my face once, and using my axe for a quick arrest, my
muscles finally recalled their memories of old crampon climbs,
and I followed the group up onto Middle Teton glacier.
Finally, the Saddle
It was a long sludge, entirely on well-consolidated snow, up to
the boulder field below the pass, the Lower Saddle camp. This
brown, rocky place had only recently been cleared of snow by
wind and sun, and tundra plants had yet to emerge this early in
the summer. Here and there, rock enclosures built by climbers
surrounded the leeward side of selected boulders. We had our
choice of sites, and Fred picked a good one with a flat, sandy area
shielded from the steady west wind by a pair of granite blocks.
Clean, pure water poured from a pipe leading from snow melt
under the boulder field. Conies and marmots piped and eyed us
September/October 1997
from the rocks. Nearby, two quonset huts reserved for rangers
and guides hunkered, front doors facing the Grand. Just above us
lay the pass, where on the Idaho cliff side the local John had been
erected. It was a low, unroofed enclosure surrounding a deck with
two chemical toilets. From these thrones, the customers had a
most spectacular view of the snowy Idaho peaks below, several
icy tarns, and an unobstructed western horizon. It was a John fit
for a kins.
The Grand. Our route is in a couloir just behind the left skyline.
The Grand dominates the view to the north from the Lower
Saddle. On the left is a minor summit called Idaho mountain, and
to its east, (the right), a ridge rises between two snow gullies.
This is the line of the Owens-Spaulding route that we would use
to descend tomorrow. Further to the right is the Exum ridge,
which extends almost to the top along the left side of the Grand.
Still further to the right run two other near-vertical ridges, the
Petzold and the Underhill, both named after luminaries of the
Grand climbing scene.
Plan A
The top of the Grand is 2,200 feet up from our camp. Our plan
was to ascend the snow and ice of the Stettner Couloir between
the Petzold and Underhill ridges, then work our way up the Ford
couloir which branched upwards towards the summit. Months
ago, back home in the lowlands, I had searched in vain for word
of the Stettner Couloir in my old edition of Rossiter's Guide to
the Tetons. It just wasn't there, but I found a one-line mention
of it in some Xeroxed pages of a later Rossiter's sent to me by
Fred. Later, Fred said that a ranger and another unnamed source
declared that the route was in "fine condition," whatever that
means. I had to take it on faith—first that the route was there, and
then that we could do it. Both Fred and Tom were sure we could
get up to the top by 10 a.m. or so, and then down by 2 p.m. at
the latest.
While we sat and cooked and nibbled at our various suppers,
we watched the sunlight leave the Grand. A brief hailstorm of
rice-sized snow grains pelted our camp, and then it cleared. As
we were pulling into our sacks, we noticed some lights flickering
on the now dark Owen-Spaulding route. A couple of late-
mOthEr rOck #8
climbing climbers on the Grand appeared to be working their way
homeward in the dark, foregoing the option to sit out the night
on the mountain. There was no chance of that happening to us.
No way. We were going to get a pre-dawn start, and be down
before noon. But I packed my head lamp, just in case.
Early Start
Dawn arrived all too soon. The rosy eastern horizon didn't
actually show the sun. But if it did rise through the clouds, we
couldn't see it anyway, because it was hidden behind the flanks of
the Underhill ridge on the right side of the Grand. I was the last
to get my day pack filled, gaiters and wind pants on, my breakfast
not quite finished. Stuffing the bag of soggy oatmeal into my
jacket pocket to munch on later, I hustled after the others as they
hiked off in the direction of the Owen-Spaulding trail. We
ascended in the cloudy morning light to the Black Dike below the
base of the south-facing ridges of the mountain. From there we
traversed on mixed scree and hard snow along the base of the
Exum Ridge. A few words of instruction from Fred and Tom, and
I kept my crampons flat against the rock-hard snow, and was
soon traversing like a natural. We continued more or less on a
contour past the base of the Petzold Ridge into the Stettner
Couloir just west of the Underhill Ridge.
Little sunlight reaches this couloir except right around noon,
the deep trough being shielded on both sides by nearly vertical
walls. The snow was hard and crunchy, the consistency of
popsicles, and it sloped about 55 degrees, but it was easy work
for crampons. After yesterday's backpacking, climbing with a
light day pack was a joy. Wanting some protection from a fall,
but not requiring full belays, we simul-climbed on a single rope.
Peter and I clipped into the middle about 30 feet apart, while Tom
or Fred led, placing stakes in the snow or nuts in the cracks of
the walls for protection, the last man extracting the stakes as we
went. A stretch of simul-climbing stopped when the leader either
ran out of pro or encountered something more fearsome than
snow.
Crux after Crux
Our first major "encounter" was a 10 to 15 foot high frozen
waterfall sloping 60 degrees, with water running noisily behind
the ice. We discussed this little pitch, Fred remarking that the
guide referred to some 60-degree ice, and he figured that it might
be the crux. It was Fred's turn to lead, and he climbed it using an
anchored belay, a snow stake below, and an ice screw for pro on
the falls. Above, and out of our sight, he soon set up anchors to
belay the rest of us. Although it was my first steep ice, I found
it easier than comparable rock, having Fred's stiff plastic boots
that I had cursed for stiffness on the trail. Swing a foot, click the
front points of the crampons into the snow-crusted ice, and stand.
Swing the ice axe in one hand, find a good pick placement, then
swing the Stubai pick in the other hand for another placement,
and pull on up to a second stance. Occasional holes in the ice
made good foot or hand holds. The only unnerving part of the
routine was the roaring waterfall sometimes visible at arm's
length underneath and between the icicles.
We all dispatched the first steep ice without difficulty,
though the others cursed their boots for not being stiff enough.
Gathering at the belay anchors, we continued simul-climbing,
until the next icefall, and then the next... This was to be the
order of the day-easy hard snow, then a short ice climb 10 to 15
feet high, followed by the same. Looking down the curve of the
ice plunging below us, I saw that the Lower Saddle had receded
remarkably. But the top of the Grand remained unseen and
Page5 September/October 1997
 unknown. After several ice leads and simul-climbs, we reached
the first fork. The route turned left up an unlikely steep, icy gully
blocked by a bulging slab. Fred continued simul-climbing, and I
dubiously followed, brooding to myself, "This is a new order of
difficulty." And it was, at least to me. The ice was thin in
places, and the rock underneath bounced the ice picks back out of
their intended holds. It was the infamous "mixed" climbing that
Alex Lowe revels in. But no reveling for me. I brooded again,
this time aloud, that the fearless leader was risking me pulling
him off if I fell. So Fred placed a little pro, and climbed the
waterfall to a good rock anchor. I was disconcerted to see, as I
ascended the ice, that one of his pieces of protection was a sling
wrapped around an icicle. "Maybe that's the way they do it here in
Wyoming," I grumbled, "you gotta work with what you've got."
But still I found it a little alarming. A bit more simul-climbing
on hard snow, a couple of more short, 50- to 60-degree icefalls,
and then, finally for good measure, a last vertical 10-foot ice
pitch. All cool, clean water ice, and lots of fun, if we could just
ignore the pressure to reach the top.
Traversing below Petzold Ridge to the base of Stettner Coulior.
The Grand Beyond
I mentioned to Fred that it was getting to be noon. We were
running somewhat behind schedule. Was retreat an option? He
responded that we had to get to the top in order to descend. If we
tried to go down what we had just gone up this morning, we'd be
lucky to get down by midnight. The question came up: "Who
has head lamps?" I was the only one. "Well, make that dawn
instead of midnight." It was beyond my imagination to down-
climb this insane couloir in the dark with only one light. That
was just too much cold hard reality for my brain. It was "top or
bust" now.
But the ice climbing seemed to be behind us. We climbed
out of Stettner Couloir at last into the broad Ford Couloir. It
was somewhat steep for safe unroped climbing, since there was a
wonderfully steep expanse of snow and rock below, and an ice axe
arrest might not be successful. So we simul-climbed with
protection again. Several hundred feet up we could see a high
rock crest looming against the royal blue sky. Slowly, we
moved up toward it, but approaching the end of the Ford, now
out of the shadows of the Underbill cliffs, the snow turned soft
mOthEr rOck #8
and squishy. Working harder, we changed direction to parallel the
ridge towards the western skyline. It began to look like we were
close to the summit ridge, but the difficulty of route finding is in
the details, not in the distance. Hopes of an easy summit route
rose when we spotted a rope anchored to a rock north of our
snowfield, so we traversed over to it. Peter was all for climbing
the rock, and made a valiant shot at bouldering the slab, but the
route was difficult, and the prospects beyond seemed dim. We
agreed that it was necessary to make a quick decision. No more
putzing around anymore.
We agreed to bypass the rock ridge, and to cross some very
poorly consolidated snow into another slope heading upward.
With solid belays from the rock, Tom made a terrific lead on deep
crumbling snow, and we found a new upward-leading snowfield
with more options to argue about. Fred led a tough mixed pitch
on bad snow and icy rock, and we set up anchors. Eager rock-
climber Peter took the sharp end of the rope, and shortly we heard
his call from above, "This is the top!" Well, it wasn't, really,
but now there was a three-quarter horizon view to west, south and
east, and' the summit loomed to the north.
The Beginning of the End
From that point on, it was easy "simul" snow walking along the
top north-south ridge. Peter and I agreeed that since it was
almost 6 p.m., we should immediately find the route down and
forego the summit. But, thankfully, more experienced heads
prevailed. Fred responded, "Let me look around this crag." A
minute of reconnoitering, and he shouted that we could get to the
top and back in less than 20 minutes. We headed up, stood
together on the summit, which is about as big as a living room,
got lots of summit pictures, took a quick look around at the deep
blue sky encircling us, and glanced down at the puny sister peaks
below. Within moments we headed toward the down trail. Our
side trip to the summit had taken less than 20 minutes. For the
first time that day, a time prediction had been right.
For a short while we argued about the direction of southwest,
which is the direction the Owen-Spaulding route runs from the
peak. Altitude and fatigue seemed to have addled our collective
brains. But compass and the map set us straight. At first it was
easy snow walking, with care-inspiring steep cliffs hanging
invisible below. Then there was some strolling on rock to a
double rappel site. The first rappel was 70 feet of air to a broad
gully, and the second rappel dropped another 70 feet from a chock
stone straddling a narrow chimney. Then there was scrambling to
a third rappel, down a face and through a misty waterfall. Off the
snow almost for good, there was tricky route-finding across a
mysterious area called the Enclosure. Luckily, Fred had paid
close attention to a ranger who had described the route in great
detail. We followed the instructions to the letter, and,
increasingly, as we down-climbed, we found pieces of a foot trail
to follow. We stayed on a ridge line between two steep snow
fields (both of which we were told ended in cliffs). As the sun
fell below the horizon, we worked our way down the west side of
the last ridge onto a clear dirt foot path. The last glow of twilight
at 10 p.m. lit our way to the Lower Saddle. I collapsed into
camp after the 16 hours of climbing, thinking to myself, "I
carried that head lamp over the top, and, Odin be thanked, I never
even got to use it!"
Ed Schmahl is a 55-year old refugee from the Rocky Mountains,
now living in in flat, mountainless Maryland. He can be reached
at ed@astro.umd.edu.
Page 6 September/October 1997
 So You Wanna Be A Stonemaster?
By Aaron Rough
It was a typical night for me: I had just finished eating an
extremely fattening dinner, and consequently was feeling rather
guilty from straying from my diet, when I decided I needed to go
and take a...well never mind where I was at, that's not important.
What is important is that I picked up my Tahquitz and Suicide
guidebook by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines and decided that I was
going to punish myself for eating such delicious and enjoyable
food. After a few pages of thumbing, I noticed one name was
continually highlighted in bold letters, VALHALLA. I quickly
zeroed in on the section containing the mention of an elite group
of rock climbers that formed an unofficial club, and you only
needed to do one certain climb to become a member,
VALHALLA. What better way to punish myself than to do a
classic climb and become an unofficial Stonemaster to boot!
I decided to take serious action in the morning.
Rob Jenson pulling some slick stemming on the first pitch.
The next morning I called my partner Rob, and plans were
set. The very same day we were to put ourselves up against the
rite of passage. I mean, come on, I had redpointed 5.12a and I
have seen Rob struggle his way through a 5.13b, how much
problem could one measly three pitch 5.1 la cause us? I had
visions of an hour or two of climbing, and then an equal amount
of time sucking down some beer at Senior Rubens. Rob showed
up a little late, but it was of no concern as we had all day. Did I
mention it's only three pitches? By the time we pulled into
Suicide's parking lot, the place was packed. We ended up parking
way down at the end of the street. The hike was uneventful, and
we were soon looking up the Sunshine Wall, directly up into the
noonday sun. Did I also mention that it was mid August and
near 100 degrees out there? Oh well, like I said, it was only a
measly 5.11 a.
I had remembered seeing a picture of Darrel Hensel on the
route, and the caption had said, "local edgemaster." So I figured
we would be edging our way up this thing. Wrong! From the
get go, we realized things might not be in the best of conditions
for doing this route. Rob started up the first pitch, which opened
with a hard mantel onto a sloping edge, followed by slick
stemming and another hard mantle pretty far above his last bolt.
During the whole pitch, Rob kept commenting on how greasy
his feet were feeling. Could it be the heat, could it be the
polished rock, or could it just be his lack of slab skills? I figured
it was a bit of each, but found the same to be true for myself as I
headed up. I think I could have used chalk for my hands and feet,
mOthEr rOck#% Page?
they felt so greasy! This short first pitch served as a good wake
up call for what was to come.
By the time I reached the first belay, I had already used
enough chalk to fill two chalk bags up. O.K., maybe it wasn't
that bad, but the heat and friction, coupled with the direct
southern exposure and resulting direct sunlight, did make things a
bit uncomfortable. For some strange reason my calves were
hurting, I don't seem to remember that ever happening while
doing local sport routes at nearby Williamson?!? And to make
matters worse, my toes were beginning to feel as if the black
rubber was melting and burning it's way through them. It might
have something to do with all of that smearing.
The second pitch starts with a traverse across a good ledge, to
a stance under a near-vertical wall with seemingly absolutely no
holds. The line of bolts went up, but I was having a hard time
figuring out how in the hell I was going to! I don't want to give
too much away about the crux, but it involved crimping,
grunting, smearing, and groaning, and alot of each. By the time I
reached the next bolt, some 15 feet or more up, I needed more
than just to chalk up. I needed a Pierre and a motivational
cassette! Unfortunately for me though, I still had about 80 feet
to go, with a 5.10c crux thrown in somewhere! Great...so I start
the left trending traverse and then end it with a mantel onto a
good ledge. Somehow during this move, I managed to headbutt
the rock. The lump that immediately began to protrude from my
forehead caused me to look more like a unicorn than any kind of
Stonemaster. I finished up the pitch with a good 30 feet of easy
5.6 climbing, with no pro or bolts to the top of the pitch. Rob's
laughter at the sight of the protruding lump did nothing to help
salve my wounded ego at having such a hard time on the pitch,
but what goes around comes around.
Rob heading out for the last pitch.
Rob started the third and final pitch without too much delay.
By this time the sun had drifted behind the top of the wall, giving
us much welcomed relief from the heat. Easier friction (but fairly
runout) led him to join the first pitch of Sundance, then it was
off right traversing up a 5.9 section with only one bolt in 60
feet. He quickly called "Off belay!," and I followed it up. We
were soon standing at the rap leading down Bye Gully.
The hike out was done at Mach 10, knowing good food and
brew was only a few miles down the road. As I sat savoring the
fattening chimichunga and slurping a big fat brew, I didn't notice
feeling any different than I had the night before, i.e. pre-
Stonemaster. Then again, I didn't lead the route in 60's shoes on
quarter inch spinner bolts. Oh, well, at least I can add unofficial
Stonemaster status to my modest list of climbing history. Hey,
only a couple of million other people can say that!
September/October 1997
 Intelligent Life Found on Mars!
Virtually Endless Boulderfields Offer New Hope for
Next Generation Climbers, but Access is Dicey
:: by Max Armpet
Through special arrangements with NASA and JPL scientists,
mOthEr rOck is the first media outlet to gain access to shocking
new evidence of life on Mars. And we're not talking low-level,
single-celled, ice-climbing-type life. We're talking
INTELLIGENT life! Here's the exclusive topo for the new area.
Route Descriptions
A. Lunar Lieback, 5.8 **. Sweet, moderate boulder
problem leading into easy crack, recalls memories of a Josh
classic...NOT.
B. Thin Air Traverse, 5.6 ****. The thin Martian air
will have your chest heaving at the end of this sustained route.
C. The End of the World, 5.7 *. Long face route, crux
is at the end.
D. Tiddelly Winks, 5.2. First ascent was a free solo by
the Sojourner on half power.
E. Easy Slab, 5.4 *. Exposed, but easy moves, and if you
fall, the lower gravity won't bang you up as bad as you think.
F. Hollifield's Ear, S.lla **. Overhanging face, careful
not to cut yourself on sharp eges.
G. Robot Radio, 5.1 Ic *. Cool face in middle of face, be
careful to maintain communication with spotter.
H. Phone Home, 5.13b *****. THE Martian classic.
Ascend overhanging rock of unknown origin up thin edges. Crux
is mantel over lip.
I. Roger Ramjet, 5.8 **. Trad route up flakes and
discontinuous thin cracks. Pro to 12 microns.
J. Where Are The Canals?, S.lla *. Looks great from a
distance, but when on this route you'll be asking "Is this it?"
mOthEr rOck#%
K. Crater Face, S.lOc **. Ascend center of face, nice
crater at halfway point makes for a good rest.
L. Gas Money, S.lOb ***. Beans, cabbage, and the
forgiving Martian gravity will all help to launch you through the
crux of this route.
M. Pathfinder Traverse, S.lOa **. A thrilling journey
right above the Martian surface, with a great landing.
N. JP Hell, 5.12d *. Short boulder problem, really a one
move wonder on sharp underclings.
O. Mars Attacks!, 5.6. Short, uneventful face. Like the
movie, few will find it worth the five bucks.
P. Space Arete, 5.9 ***. Way exposed, the thrill ride of a
lifetime.
Editor's Note: Seems like you can't do anything in a climbing
magazine these days without pissing someone off. Read on...
Dear mOthEr rOck,
I've just seen your Mars bouldering guide on the Internet and
frankly I'm pissed off!! I mean, what the hell?!! I hope you're
not trying to pass that area off as "new"...Actually I discovered
the bouldering in this area long before Sojourner, whoever he is,
ever got there. When I was like six years old or something, I
remember checking it out through a telescope in my dad's
backyard. In fact, I'd considered writing a guide but didn't want to
publicize it due to the fragile ecosystem. You guys are just
typical Johnny-come-lately types trying to get credit for other
people's inspriation.
And who does this Sojourner think he is going re-naming all
the problems anyway. I was going to do all those ones you put
in the topo, as soon as I could get there, but just haven't had the
chance lately. You can cross all those names off right now. To
say Tiddleywinks is just 5.2, well that's just bollocks. I don't
think Sojourner is even capable of doing the thing, and certainly
not on half power.
Also on Phone Home, as you call it, although I haven't done
it yet, me and my friends figured all the moves out from here and
the crux is definitely NOT the mantel at the lip, but the dyno to
catch the sloper. Unfortunately, catching the sloper is much
more difficult than you obviously give it credit for, since you're
relying on second-hand information. Due to the low gravity,
there's a tendency not to stick the move but to end up about 50
yards away with a mouth full of Mars dust.
If you're going to publicize some of the best bouldering in
the universe, you might at least get the facts straight. Of course,
I'd prefer you hadn't brought this into the open at all. I give it a
year at most before some officious fool closes the place down and
believe me, we'll come looking for you when that happens.
Yours, very pissed off,
Wills Young
PageS September/October 1997
 Mormon Rocks by Matt Artz and Brandon Thau
Driving out of the L.A. basin, up Interstate 15 through the Cajon
Pass on the way to High Desert or Red Rocks, you pass a huge
pile of rocks on your left. At least one newbie in the car will
invariably ask, "Is there any good climbing there?" They are of
course referring to the stunning-looking Mormon Rocks. And
the stock answer is "No, the rock is all crap; nobody climbs
there."
Photo: Man Artz
But guess again. While the sandstone conglomerate is lose in
most places, if you look around you can find quality, climable
rock. Several bolt ladders already exist on the slabs here, and
there is much potential for steeper sport routes for those willing
to take the time to scout the area and place some bolts.
There are three distinct bolt ladders on the north face. Some
of the bolts have been completely exposed and are only 1/2 inch
in the rock. There is a 5.6 route on the main wall (the first bolt
has a new hangar), and a 5.7-5.8 route on a wall to the east of the
main one.
®<
Route Descriptions
A. Sandstone Balls, 5.10a *. Two pitches. First pitch: six
bolts lead to a two-bole belay station. Second pitch: three more
bolts lead to a one bolt + tree belay station. FA: Brandon Thau,
John Thau, Michael Hong, April 25, 1993.
B. Unknown, 5.?. Unknown star-dryvin ladder.
C. Loose Lisa, 5.7. Incomplete route to the right of a left-
facing dihedral. FA: Brandon Thau, Greg Hadgens, 1993.
mOthEr rOck#8
Note: Two or three additional routes can be found to the left of
Sandstone Balls.
Recommended Routes
Thau's "Sandstone Balls," 5.10a *, is a two pitch bolted route
with solid conglomerate holds (see topo). Beta: The first bolt
(easy) is 20 feet off the ground and is sandstone colored. The first
pitch is 5.8-5.9 (165 feet) and the second pitch is 5.9-5. lOa (100
feet). The route starts on the north face of the largest wall there;
Thau named it 'The Ladron Wall' after he had his car broken into
by gang members while climbing there. It starts near a low
point in the wall (the longest line) and passes about five bolts to
two bolt belay. Hopefully the bolts are still good. Then up
about five more to a belay at a tree and one bolt on a ledge
system 50 feet from top. Traverse the ledge west and walk down
the backside. It's a really cool climb for the San Bernardino area.
Directions
From Interstate 15, exit at Highway 138 and head west. Dirt
roads on your right lead to the rocks.
Camping
A U.S. Forest Service campground is located a few miles away at
Lytle Creek.
Guidebooks
Mormon Rocks has not been covered in any guidebooks, but the
area was mentioned in an article by Thau in mOthEr rOck
magazine, Issue #4 (January/February 1997). The topo
reproduced here also appears in the new guidebook The Best of
mOthEr rOck, Vol. 1, published by mOthEr rOck Press, August
1997.
Another mOthEr rOck Exclusive!
Through special arrangement with Gern Moffat in Rumplestump,
Talley-on-Ho, UK, we were given the following photo of her
son, Gerry, at the age of three months. Although just an infant,
he was already showing off his now-famous tendon strength.
" "
©
Page 9 September/October 1997
 mOthEr rOck Reviews
Into Thin Air, by Jon Krakauer
Reviewed by Rob Stauder
"...attempting to climb Everest is an intrinsically irrational act—a
triumph of desire over sensibility." -Jon Krakauer.
Released before the year anniversary of the "Mt Everest
Disaster" of the spring season of 1996, Into Thin Air chronicles a
tragedy in the continuing saga of deadly climbs on the world's
highest peak. Krakauer's book portrays the chaotic and painful
endeavour of climbing Mt. Everest. He finds the "go for broke
and survive at all costs" ethic appalling in the face of recurring
seasonal carnage. Krakauer must embrace this reality to survive
and make the summitt-the price of the peak becomes his soul.
The book details the approach to Everest base camp as a
contrast between the professionalism of his highly organized
guide, Rob Hall, the destitution of the trekker/tourist
overwhelmed villages along the route, and the physical
exhaustion associated with getting to and acclimatizing on the
peak. The expedition includes mostly inexperienced climbers
who have trained for the climb on stairmasters and other fitness
devices. Some have attempted Everest previously. The quack
nature of each climber, whether experienced or not, is revealed as
all come from different walks of life and are motivated by the fact
that they can purchase reasonably safe passage up the big E. The
group comprises wealthy doctors, a New York socialite, a postal
worker who held two jobs to pay for the voyage, and others.
Some seek the "seven summits" goal. This reinforces Krakauer's
belief that climbing Everest inspires irrationality and beckons
sometimes reckless dreamers.
The author strives for accuracy and detail in the account
through interviews with many of the survivors. He patches
together the events of May 10-12, 1996 with several different
climbers' accounts. He finds his own recollection murky due to
his hypoxia and exhaustion. Through this brutal recounting,
Krakauer assigns himself blame for the deaths of some of the
other climbers. He is shamed at his adherence to the "save your
own skin" mentality of Everest survival. He seeks foregiveness
from the reader in absurd ways like "statistically" it wasn't such a
bad year for deaths on the hill. To learn from the horrid
experience, Krakauer suggests that Everest permits be granted to
non-guided parties only, a ridiculous suggestion in the face of
150+ years of guided mountaineering.
Into Thin Air attempts to explain and correct a dark side of
climbing-those who venture into extemely hazardous situations
will sometimes perish. This danger, coupled with "summit
fever," can negate the traditional perception of partnership and
shared risk. The book is an excellent read and flows beautifully (I
couldn't put it down), but is laden with guilt. No amount of
analysis will bring back those who died nor justify their deaths.
Krakauer uses the assertion that Everest attracts dreamers and
wealthy inexperienced to understand the tragedy and assuage his
feelings of guilt. Unfortunately, no one will ever understand this
tragedy. Five climbers perished during the 1997 spring climbing
season in pursuit of the world's highest summitt. As the fall
season approaches, more will surely follow.
Rob Stauder is a former Byzantine nun currently practicing "non-
therapeutic" massage in rural Nebraska.
mOthEr rOck#8 Page 10
Uprising Climbing Gym, Palm Springs
Reviewed by Bruce Wiley & Nancy Hampton
Are climbers masochists or just plain crazy? Go to an outdoor
climbing gym for the entire day as the temperature hits around
112 degrees? You bet!
The "Uprising Climbing Center" in Palm Springs,
California is a cool place in every sense of the word "cool."
There are more routes on these walls and more are added all the
time, than anyone can possibly do. There are climbs from 5.6 to
5.14, overhangs, a really intriguing crack that reportedly has only
been climbed ten times, and numerous lead climbs. The
climbing area is covered so that it is shaded, and a misting
system cools the area without getting the walls or walking wet.
You will sweat your buns off, but the shading and humidity
produced by the misting keeps heat exhaustion at bay. (I can
vouch for this, being prone to this condition - N.H.)
Nancy Hampton in the bouldering cave at Uprising, Palm Springs.
The routes are very well planned with some easy going and
good holds to lots of tough cruxes with very little to depend on
other than skill. One problem we found with these walls,
though, is that they are mostly overhanging to some degree. A
few more routes with a slight incline would be nice for those of
us who could be in better shape.
The employees are really personable, making everyone feel
relaxed and comfortable. You get the feeling you have known
these guys who are climbers themselves on the rock as well as on
plastic, forever. Paul, Johnny, and Will were very knowledgeable
and gave freely of tips and pointers.
The "pro-shop" is limited but offers some nice clothing and
shoes. They also have shoe rentals. For 12 bucks a day you can
climb to your hearts content and even take a break for cocktails
and dinner at the Ritz-Carlton if you so choose, then go back to
climb some more.
Uprising is the place to go for a vigorous workout and to
practice difficult moves, or if you feel the need for some friendly
faces. And they sell brewskys less than 100 feet away too!
Bruce and Nancy live in Yucca Valley and spend a lot of time in
nearby Joshua Tree National Park.
September/October 1997

Palm Springs Domes
By Aaron Rough
I've spent many an hour combing our
local desert and mountain areas looking for
new climbing spots. I don't know what it
is-my wife swears I'm possessed-but it
seems every spare moment I get, I'm
driving here or there. So when word of
mouth led me to believe there was a
"secret" spot I hadn't been to yet, I decided
to grab a bud and go check it out. What I
found was a "complicated" area that is
deserving of more attention, but also one
that carries some excess baggage.
Excess baggage you say? Well, the
surrounding area the climb listed below is
at is one that has seen different "styles" on
first ascents. Hummm...how to put it...a
VERY different style. However you feel
about that different style, it does not
change the fact that a very large granite
face four to five pitches long is nestled
away in canyon less than one hour from
San Bernardino. The multi-pitch climbs,
at least the one I sampled, are fun friction
climbing next to a large cascading
waterfall with bighorn sheep butting heads
on a plateau nearly 600 feet off the
ground.
The place left quite an impression on
me, and that's one reason I'm hesitant to
put it in a climbing rag. Don't get me
wrong, I'm not trying to keep it all to
southern California's climbing magazine
PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151
The mOthEr rOck Back Page...
myself. It's just as I said before, the
surrounding area has excess baggage.
Examples: Controversial ethics a lot of
people will not enjoy seeing (I'll leave it
at that); a complicated one hour approach
through tick-infested brush, that also
skirts private land that is posted "No
Trespassing"...all of this and more add up f-4
and result in my hesitancy. Due to these
factors, exact directions will not be given
to the area. If you happen to hear about it
or stumble upon it, "So Be It!." and here
is a topo you'll find interesting. Enjoy!
Unknown, 5.10a R, 4 pitches.
FA: Unknown.
Pitch 1: Start just under large right X* @
it
facing corner. Go up arete past bolts and
traverse left to slings around horn. 5.10a.
70 feet.
5,1
Pitch 2: Go up flake, then undercling
small roof/flake. Proceed to climb up and
around roof on the right to bolted belay. * ,
5.9. 120 feet.
Pitch 3: Proceed up face to large ledge
and bolt belay. 5.8. 80 feet.
Pitch 4: Go up face and pull small
overlap. Continue up rotten flake and i *-<|:Jt
then slab to last anchor. 5.6 R. 90 feet.
Descent: Rap the route with two ropes.
Pro: Small to 1", TCUs, and
quickdraws.
USA
southern California's climbing magazine

I Issue #9 • November/December 1997

Editors' Corner
The editor bouldering in J-Tree. Photo: Darell Palmer
A Great Day for So Cal!
After all the build-up and hype, the 1997
Snow Valley Boulderfest and Trash Clean-
up came off without a hitch. It seems to
have lived up to everyone's expectations,
and then some. Congratulations to Matt
Hoch and Lisa Rands, both second time
winners in their respective divisions. This
event promises to be even more
spectacular in 1998, so stay tuned!.
Until Issue #10, climb hard, climb
safe, and most importantly, have FUN!
Matt Artz, Editor
mOthErrOck@aol.com
Letters to the Editor
Dear mOthEr rOck,
Thanks for a great magazine! It's like X-
mas every time it comes! I look forward
to meeting you one of these days. Keep
up the excellent work.
—Dan, Lake Arrowhead
Thanks, Dan. Just when we were
thinking of packing it all in and taking up
golf, your letter made our day. Merry
Christmas!
New E-mail Newsletter
Available for Free!!!
mOthEr rOck Magazine debuted mOthEr
rOck Mail, a new E-mail based newsletter
chock full of useful info about the
climbing scene in Southern California,
this past September. mOthEr rOck Mail
is distributed by E-mail free of charge to
anyone who wants it, at irregular
intervals...but at least once or twice a
month. mOthEr rOck Mail is now read
by more than 700 climbers in Southern
California, and that number is growing
every day. Have some news or
information you'd like to share with the
So Cal climbing community? Would you
like to be added to the mailing list? Then
please send an E-mail to
motherrock @ aol .com.
mOthEr rOck#9
Beginners Climbing
Comp at REI, Nov. 15th
REI will hold their 6th annual beginners
climbing competition coming up on
November 15th. Geared for a climber
whose onsight level is no higher than
5.11 a, there will be lots of climbing and
lots of prizes. Cost is $25.00 before Oct.
25th, $35.00 on or after the 25th. For
more info call 818-709-5021, or E-mail
NHAClimb @ aol.com.
mOthEr rOck Top Ten
Top Ten Signs You Are Too
Drunk to Climb
10. You lose arguments with inanimate
objects...like really big rocks.
9. You have to grab your pro to keep
from falling off the earth.
8. Your belayer finds traces of chalk in
your alcohol bag.
7. You can hit that dyno better with one
eye closed.
6. Your two new hard projects are named
"Barley" and "Hops."
5. Mosquitoes at the base of the crag
catch a buzz after attacking you.
4. All of the locals say "Norm" in unison
when you stagger up to the base of the
crag.
3. Every time you go climbing, you find
your partner's dog more and more
attractive.
2. You don't recognize Ron Kauk unless
seen through bottom of a glass.
1. Climbing trips are interfering with
your drinking.
High Desert Update: No
New News
The stand-off in the High Desert
continues. Randy Vogel recently updated
mOthEr rOck with the latest news. "I
spoke to one of the owners several weeks
ago. He has been unable to put together a
plan that will allow him to charge for
climbing, yet avoid liability. He is
exploring several different ideas, but
nothing is certain." Meanwhile, there are
plenty of places to climb, so don't crash
the place and encourage the owners of the
property to continue with their outrageous
plans to charge for climbing. As Randy
said, "The more time the area is closed and
the owners realize that nobody is rushing
forward to shower them with money to
save this area, the better. As fun as the
area is, it is really not that important of an
Page 1
area regionally. When more moderate
routes are put up at New Jack City, most
attention will shift to it." Plus, there are
many climbs still open in the High Desert
Area that do not lie on private property.
And a few miles away lies
Margaritaville...
southern California's climbing magazine
Publisher
The AMCC Group
Editor
Matt Artz
Associate Editor
Aaron Rough
Proofreader
Ruth Artz
mOthEr rOck Contributors
Louie Anderson • Max Armpet • Jason Ballas
Reed Bartlett • Diane Chakmak • Amos Clifford
Heather Dolph • Ted Doughty Jr. • Daniel Eubank
Daniel Garcia • Bob Goff • Nancy Hampton
Christian Harder • Steve Harris • Amy Lobsinger
Fritz Lowrey • James March • Reese Martin
Travis McElvany • Matt McGunigle • Chris Miller
Darell Palmer • Steve Parker • Patrick Paul
Matt Polk • Matt Pollard • Ed Schmahl
Jann Senior • Rob Stauder • Brandon Thau
Randy Vogel • Todd Vogel • Geoff Wade
Bruce Wiley • Bills Wong
Copyright © 1997 mOthEr rOofc/The AMCC Group. All
rights reserved. mOthEr rOck magazine is published six
times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to climb
somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951,
Redlands, CA, 92375-1151 USA. E-mail:
mOthErrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGrouD@aol.com.
Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send
a check or money order for $10 to mOthEr rOckfThe
AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-
1151. Subscriptions outside of the United States are $20
annually.
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll
consider it. We're a no budget operation, so send a
SASE if you need your materials back. Photo
submissions also welcome. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com
and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disc/aimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you
have not yet figured that out, you're an idiot and you
should probably stop climbing now before you hurt
yourself and others. And if you think you can bet your
life or safety on anything you read in mOthEr rOck,
think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any
of the information contained in these pages, and cannot
be held responsible in any way for any of your actions,
acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's
the way it should be. You're a climber after all.
On the Cover.
James March on his way to a second place
overall finish at the 1997 Snow Valley
Boulderfest. The route is the classic
"The Wall of Voodoo," 50 points, on the
Voodoo Formation at the Call of the West
boulders. See the story on pages 3 and 4
of this issue. Photo by Matt Artz.
November/December 1997
 aofchEr Notebook
News from Southern California and Vicinity
Climbing Gym to Open in Upland dome while reducing the erosion and impact on plant life that
Local climbers are busy building a new climbing gym in the climber use is currently having on the area. A future volunteer
Upland area, and it's scheduled to open on January 1st, 1998. work party is planned.
Called "Hangar 18," the gym will feature a huge bouldering/ -Patrick Paul
training area. Kings Canyon Moderate Topropes
New Route on Bubbs Creek Wall This summer, my brother and I climbed two terrific routes at
Late in the Summer, Brandon Thau and Dave Nettle took an eight Roaring River Falls in Cedar Grove, Kings Canyon National
day trip into Kings Canyon with pack mules and big wall gear. Park. This area is not in the guidebook, but offered us two great
They established a new route on Bubbs Creek Wall, one of the climbs.
big three walls in the Sierras. The new route is called Samarai
Warriors, V 5.11- Al. It uses the first two pitches of Crystal
Bonzai, the next two and a half pitches of Samarai Wind, and
then goes independent to the top. One pendulum and 10-12
bathooks are required. It's 14 pitches, with a 200 foot rope
mandatory. The first half is awesome, improbable crack
climbing, and the second part is a little bit of bathooking and face
climbing. The first ascent took four days, and two nights in a
portaledge. Brandon says it's defmately one of the better routes
he's done in the backcountry, and a unique route for the Sierras.
Stopwatch, Sequoia National Park
In early September, on the Watch Tower in Sequoia National
Park, Richard Leversee, Scott Cosgrove, and Jim Zellers
attempted to finish Stopwatch, a route started in 1986 by
Leversee, Carl McConachie, and Jay Smith. The route starts on
the Northeast Arete (the Gallen Rowell Route, V 5.8 A3) and
follows the first two pitches. It goes for two pitches
independenly at 5.11 and comes to what Leversee discribed as a
"thin, flared, flakey 5.13+ horror story of a crack," and they
decided to bag any further effort at going higher. The four pitches
of climbing that lead up the unclimbable obsticle are "very
good," however, and have sturdy 3/8 inch bolt anchors for
rappelling to the ground.
-Patrick Paul
New Off-Width at Castle Rock Spires
In June, Richard Leversee, Kevin Daniels, and Dave Nettle braved
the four hour pump through difficult trail finding, ticks, and
monster Poison Oak that leads to the Castle Rock Spires, in the
Sequoia National Park. They established a new 5. lOc R off-
width route on the North face of the Fin. Leversee noted that
they used sixty meter ropes, and said that the route is nowhere
near the quality of the routes on the West face or those on the
spire itself. The route starts at the East edge of the arete that
divides the North face from the East, and every pitch is wide. Amy Lobsinger on the 5.6 arete, Roaring River Falls.
To descend, use Silver Lining. (Guidebook reference: Southern
Sierra Rock Climbing: Sequoia Kings Canyon). We toproped off a tree, then rapelled down right beside the
-Patrick Paul waterfall (on the opposite side of the river from the tourist
viewing area). The first climb is probably 5.9-, and is awesome
New Trail Planned at Voodoo Dome because of the surroundings as well as the aspects of the climb.
The Southern Sierra Climbers' Association is currently putting A little to the right of the 5.9- is an arete that is probably 5.6.
together a plan with the Forest Service to build a new trail from The climbs are beautiful, easily accessible, and great for
the Lewis Camp road to the massive Voodoo Dome at the East beginners!
end of the Needles. The trail will facilitate easier access to the —Amy Lobsinger

mOthEr rOck #9 Page 2 November/December 1997

 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest and Trash
Clean-Up a Huge Success!
by Matt Artz
After many months of planning and uncertainty, the 1997 Snow
Valley Boulderfest came off without a hitch on Saturday, October
4th, 1997. 77 climbers had pre-registered, and another 25 to 30
registered on-site, bringing the total to more than 100! Add to
that the 25 or more volunteers, and the friends and family who
came along just to watch, and there were a lot of people up there
enjoying the great area and the absolutely perfect weather!
Tad Newman on the second ascent of "Shadow of the Pain,"
100 pts., on the Vampire Boulder, Snow Valley South. This hard
crack route had only been done once before, by Kenn Kennaga, and
saw it's second, third, and fourth ascents during the contest.
And Tad took first place in his age division, with 1,235 pts.
Participants were given a high-quality guidebook with maps
and detailed beta for each of the 272 problems (many contestants
said the Snow Valley guidebook blew away the Phoenix
guidebook!). Trails were well-marked, and each boulder featured
an orange cone with the numbers of the problems posted on it.
mOthEr rOck #9
Each clump of boulders had a full-time volunteer nearby, who had
been trained on the specifics of each problem. Four wandering
judges, who were familiar with every problem in the entire
guidebook, were available by radio to resolve any issues.
By 10 a.m., the contestants had left the Snow Valley Ski
Resort parking lot, and got there first glimpse of the boulders-
Map #1, the Little Green Valley Boulders. Some folks started
climbing here, while others, to avoid the crowds, went further
back to The Block, The Brain, or over to Snow Valley West, to
areas like The Incognito Boulders, The Jalapeno Cracks, and The
Anthill Boulders.
Craig Fry attempts the "Northeast Arete" Route, 40 pts., on The
Block at Snow Valley East, at 3:56 p.m., just four minutes before the
official end of the contest. Despite several valient attempts, he
couldn't complete the problem...but still ended up taking third place
in his age division, with a total of 1,379 pts.
Page 3 November/December 1997
 As the day wore on, muscles became sore, the rough Snow
Valley rock took its toll on fingers and knees, and people 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest
gradually began to filter out to the outlying areas like Call of the and Trash Clean-Up
West and The Vampire Boulder. By the time the horn sounded at
4 p.m., everyone was spent, but they were all still smiling.
Final Results
In the end, 16-year-old Matt Hoch took first place in the Overall-Male
Male division with 4,260 points, and 21-year-old Lisa Rands |;; Matt Hoch;(16)--4,260 pts, : ::i: :
topped the Female division with 1,330 points. Jon Gibson won
the coveted Crackmaster award with 620 points just on crack Overall—Female
problems, barely edging out fellow crack lover Brandon Thau, Lisa Rands (21) - 1,330 pts.
who had 615 points on crack problems. Crackmaster Award—Male
Jon Gibson (27) -- 620 pts.
Crackmaster Award—Female
Gretchen Schmeisser (40) — 370 pts.
Women--14 and Under
Harlie Hammond (12) -- 386 pts. |
Kelly LeVoir (11)-203 pts. :
Men—14 and Under
Robby Keisic (14) - 1,651 pts.
: Josiah Micheletti (14) -- 1,142 pts.
| Winston Farrar (12) - 830 pts.
Women-15 to 25
Lisa Rands (21)- 1,330 pts.
\y Close (23) - 826 pts. jj .•.'•;••
:::llsi§at§ Purtil (15) -- 695 pts; $ f
Men—15 to 25
I Matt Hoch (16) - 4,|60 pts.
[I Ryan Lewis (20) — 2,^56 pts.
:•.: Ryan Rambert (17) - 2,385 pts.
1 Brandon Thau (21) - 2,355 pts.
Women--26 to 35
Suzanne Paulson (35) - 835 pts.
Narelle Jarry (26) - 570 pts.
Anne Wojskowicz (31) — 254 pts.
Lucy Wojskowicz (29) - 254 pts.
Men--26 to 35
| James March (34) - 3:,845 pts.
Jon Gibson (27) - 2,951 pts.
Zack Shields (26) - 2,590 pts.
Josiah Micheletti, age 14, on "Gagging on a Mosquito," 40 pts., Ian Mindell (26) - 2,279 pts.
near The Brain at Snow Valley East. Desptite a rumored broken Women—36 to 39
finger, Josiah still managed to accumulate 1,J42 pts., which was Laurel Colella (39) - 332 pts.
good enough for a second place finish in his age division.
The party after the event was a lot of fun. We watched
Men-36 to 39
climbing videos at the bar, ate a spaghetti dinner, cheered on the Steve Edwards (36) - 2,076 pts. ;

winners at the awards ceremony, and danced to the music of the Thomas Nordberg (36) — 1,750 pts.
Cactus Pricks. It was a long day, but everyone seemed to be Craig Fry (38)- 1,379 pts.
saying the same thing: it was an AWESOME event, and they'd i Women—40 and Over
be back for sure next year. Mary Ann Loehr (42) - 1,026 pts.
And speaking of next year, the Rim of the World Climbing Gretchen Schmeisser (40) — 995 pts.
Club is already putting together plans for the 1998 Snow Valley | .. Judy Rittenhouse (58) - 457 pts.
Boulderfest! The event will likely draw twice as many people,
due to the overwhelming success of this year's contest. And look Men-40 and Over
for at least a hundred or more new boulder problems to be "TadNewman (40) - 1,235 pts.
included in the 1998 Contest Guide, along with more surprises. Todd Gordon (42) - 1,006 pts.
Stay tuned: mOthEr rOck will give you all the details as they Reese Martin (42) - 995 pts.
become available!

mOthEr rOck#9 Page 4 November/December 1997


moderate .
by
Aaron
Rough
AIDS Patient, 5.7, 2 Pitches
Box Springs
I've never really been into aid climbing. For a while, a friend and
I had great aspirations to climb the Moonlight Buttress in Zion,
but time and time again plans got cancelled, things came up, and
generally it just got shoved to a back burner. We even went out
and bought much of the aid gear we would need. Alas, I still
haven't ever led a pitch of aid, but it's not from a lack of trying.
Let me tell you about my first attempt at aid climbing.
It started with an innocent day of skipping some school and
meeting a friend out at Box Springs. I ended up getting to the
cliff early and set up a TR on a crack climb. I then fixed the rope
and rapped down to the base. After setting up a semi-elaborate
self belay with jumars I decided I should be safe in aid soloing up
the route. It was actually pretty easy, and before I knew it I had
reached the top. Meanwhile, my partner Greg showed up and
decided that he would give it a shot as well.
This short little climb got us in the mood for something
bigger and better. So we packed up our racks and etriers and
decided to hike up to a large formation further up valley, in hopes
of finding an aidable crack that we would be too scared to free
climb. We deposited our gear at the base of the fairly large
buttress that sat about 300 feet up the valley side. This would
give the climb some airy exposure and some excellent views. A
hawk slowly drifted in circles on the light thermals created by the
sun. I whipped out the binoculars and scanned the lower slabby
base and noticed a thin seam leading up to a large ledge about 50
to 60 feet up. A short traverse left on that ledge should give
access to a choice of two cracks leading to the top of the buttress.
I passed the binoculars to Greg and he agreed. I would aid up
the initial seam and then traverse left. I would set up the belay at
the base of the crack that looked most inviting and he would take
the second pitch. We racked up and I decided to take some
knifeblade pins as the seam was too shallow to take pro down
low. So with what seemed like a hundred pounds of gear, my
etriers, and hammer clipped to my harness, I set off in my
Five.Ten Extremes up the slab.
After several free moves, I discovered the seam did not
become the crack I hoped for, but rather remained thin and
shallow. About 15 feet up, I decided some sort of pro would be
in order, so out came the hammer and a thin knifeblade. A
couple of quick pounds set the piece nicely and I was soon
clipped in. The seam snaked just to the right of a roof and that's
where I thought I would start aiding, but as I free climbed up
higher the seam opened up to reveal a good TCU and nut
placement. A little after that I was up against more face moves
and a mantle to reach the ledge. The mass of gear and hanging
mOthEr rOck#9 PageS
etts made the mantle hell, but I managed it and traversed left on
the ledge. The first crack looked good and was around an inch and
a half, but it was filled up entirely with sediment the rain had
been washing into it for a couple of million years. I later found
the crack to be excellent after I bolted an anchor in and rapped
down, cleaning as I went. This crack now offers a new second
pitch variation and is called Tig Bitty's, 5.7.
Greg Hartt on the second pitch of AIDS Patient, 5.7 R.
At the time though, I elected to keep traversing to the left crack
which had appeared to be a little wider from binocular inspection.
What I found was a nice four to five inch crack shooting straight
up. It was clean and the face on the left side had large features, so
I figured this would be the better of the two cracks. I realized that
this pretty much shot our chances of doing some aiding, but a
first ascent multi-pitch climb sounded just as appealing.
For the first time, I looked out across the valley and it was
beautiful. The ledge I was on was totally posh and the view was
incredible. I could see many large formations on the other side of
the canyon, and even managed to spot an old line I had climbed a
couple of days earlier.
Greg quickly flew up the first pitch and was sweating when
he finally reached the belay. I don't think it was from the climb,
but rather from the gigantic rack bulging from around his neck.
He looked up and quickly realized the crack above could be a fun
exercise in offwidth wallowing, or he could simply climb the
mottled face to the left and reach right to place pro in the crack.
Lucky for him, he had a large selection of gear that would fill a
four inch crack, and he elected the free climbing on the face. Not
too long after he left, I felt the constant tug that indicated he was
off belay and ready for me to move on. I too elected for the face
moves and found them to be extremely enjoyable, but slightly
more difficult than expected since I wasn't in my climbing shoes.
I arrived at the top and was greeted by a smiling Greg. This
was the first time either of us had done a first ascent of a multi-
pitch route, and it felt good. On the way back down to the car,
Greg laughed about hauling all that aid gear up the climb for
nothing, and thats when he came up with the name: AIDS
Patient. No, it wasn't named in a mean or viscous nature, but
rather as a comment on the stupidity of the first ascentionists.
Overall, the climb was excellent and as far as I know, it still
awaits a second ascent!
Guidebook: Box Springs Sport Climbing Guide, by Aaron
Rough. Available from mOthEr rOck for S6.00.
November/December 1997
 "All Mixed Up" on Corte Madera
by Ted Doughty Jr.
The #2 stopper sure looked funky. With my aiders tugging it out
of the overhanging crack, I wondered if it would blow. If it
failed, it would be a quick plunge onto the slab below. The
widdening crack above called to me. "Go for it!" I stepped up,
streched my 6 foot 4inch frame, and sunk a cam. After clipping
the rope, I was able to look back down over the last three pitches
and think about my journey here.
Corte Madera is a nice chunk of granite in the San Diego
backcountry. At more than 500 feet high and 1,500 feet wide, it
draws me back time and again. It boasts 24 documented routes
ranging from 100 foot cracks or faces to multi-pitch Mini-Walls.
A two hour drive from San Diego and 45 minute hike leads to the
base of the rock. With a four wheel drive vehicle, the hike in is
even shorter. On most weekends you will find this incredible
crag unoccupied.
After climbing here for more than 20 years, my partner
James Barnett and I felt it was time for us to add a route. In May
1995, we looked with binoculars and found a line up slabs,
cracks, and flakes which lead up to a 100 foot square block and a
final headwall. One outside corner of the block hung out over the
rock below and had a crack splitting it. We would make this a
part of our line.
James began the first lead. He hates to drill, so when faced
with it he placed a 1/4" bolt. On nice solid rock he climbed and
sloted. Looking up, he saw that it was going to take more bolts
and turned the lead over to me. Five 3/8" hand drilled bolts later
(5.10 or 5.8, Al bat hook), I placed a bolt and fixed two pins for
a sling belay.
There was an easy corner system to the left, but that was not
for us. A thin, clean crack to the right split a couple of small
roofs, and James aided up that way (5.10 or Al). Past the second
roof, he was able to free up a nice finger and hand crack to a ledge
(5.8). Time was running short, so we set a bunch of Hex nuts
and rapped.
We have only seen two parties at Corte in the last
couple of years, so imagine our suprise when we returned to our
route two weeks later and found the nuts missing from the top of
the second pitch. I began Pitch 3 in an easy corner leading to a Photo: Paul Dowdy
left facing 5.8 finger crack/flake. From the top of this a few face
moves put me into a short off-width and finaly to a large ledge Ted Doughty Jr. at the start of Pitch 4 on Mized Up (5.70, A2+)
below the Block. A couple of bolts for the anchor and we were at Cone Madera.
ready for the splitter crack above. Leading Pitch 4,1 was able to experience the challenge of
James started aiding the overhang with a hook and thin that #2 stopper. Paul let me lead the final, overhanging Pitch 5.
stopper (A2) before plugging into the widening crack with cams. This time I was well armed for the Headwall. After a half dozen
It was neat to see his haul line dangle farther and farther from the tied off pins and shallow cams (A2+), I ran out of seams. A
rock as he climbed towards the top of the block. I followed couple of 1/4" bolts for aid allowed me to then free to the top.
(overhanging jugging is...different!), and was stunned at what I Paul joined me and we marveled at the variety of climbing on the
could see above the belay ledge. Our line was gone. More route. While talking, my concentration waivered and I broke my
overhanging than the last pitch, a headwall separated us from the only 3/8" bit. I drilled two 1/4" bolts and we rapped the route.
summit. No continous cracks were apparent. We were going to I went back with Tom Scott this Spring. He freed
need pins for this pitch. As it was again getting late, and not everything but the last two pitches. The Block may go free. The
having the required pins, I set a couple of bolts and we rapped. Headwall? Go check it out!
James's Fire Department job did not allow him to return
until a couple of weekends later, so I teamed up with an old friend Ted Doughty Jr. has lived in San Diego County for 39 years, and
and Corte veteran, Paul Dowdy. Paul did a couple of first ascents has been climbing there and other places in the U.S. and
here back in the 1970's, and I knew he would enjoy going back elsewhere for more than 24 years.
for another one.

mOthEr rOck#9 Page 6 November/December 1997

 Mill Wash Boulder by Aaron Rough
For a couple of years now, I've had a little secret. It's not a very
big one, and I am not the only one in on it. In fact, I've seen as
many as three or four different people at the "secret" spot. I
guess there are probably as many as 20 people who know about
the Mill Wash Boulder, but when you consider that much of
Southern California's climbing population lives within an hour
or so from it, that's quite a secret! Alas, all good things must
come to an end, and I feel the time has come for this little
obscure boulder to get some traffic.
You will pass a house foundation with a stone chimney still
standing. A few yards beyond that you will see a small trail
heading off to your right. Take that trail and follow it to the
rock. The trail is a little brushy, but nothing that can't be easily
navigated. You will see the overhanging west face to your left
and the south face to your right. The following topos should
help you get things lined up. Have fun!
Topos and Route List

Q ©a
West Face
1. Traverse, 5.10+; can finish up through trough, 5.11.
2. Easy mantle, 5.7.
3. Crack, 5.9.
4. Face, 5.10. Do not use crack! (no pun intended!).
5. Face, 5.11. Long throw off of pockets.
6. Bulgy arete, 5.12.
Photo: Aaron Rough
7. Bulge to trough sit down, 5.10.
Rob Jenson on Loose Flake Overhang, 5.11 (Problem #16). 8. Straight up trough, 5.8.
9. Pocket traverse up and left, 5.9.
The Mill Wash Boulder is a sandstone/conglomerate boulder
10. Pockets to face, 5.9.
that averages around 15 to 20 feet high. It has overhanging west
11. Face, 5.8.
and south sides with large slabby sections facing east and north.
12. Face, 5.8.
The rock is pocketed and also has small imbedded pebbles which
are common with conglomerates. The rock has 17 known 13. Face, 5.9.
problems ranging from 5.0 to 5.12. This count does not include South
the many easy problems to be done on the slabby sections. The Face
climbing is short and powerful, especially if you're not used to
pulling on pockets. The holds can be sharp, so tape for tendons
and skin wear.
Getting There
Take 1-10 east from just about anywhere till the University exit
in Redlands. Get off here and turn left onto University. Go
about a mile or so, passing several small intersections till you
reach Lugonia Ave./Highway 38. This is the back way to Big
Bear. Turn right and proceed to follow Highway 38 up past
Yucaipa and into the Mill Wash drainage/canyon. Continue up
canyon until you pass Mill Creek Road on your right. Proceed
.2 miles farther and a small dirt pullout will be seen on your
right. If you look south from here, you will see the very top of 14. Undercling/pockets, 5.10+.
the boulder. Trust me, it's bigger than it looks! 15. Overlap, 5.10+.
Approach 16. Loose flake overhang, 5.11.
Take the obvious trail heading towards the water tank and then 17. Variation right, 5.11.
connect to the road. This in turn connects to another road about
100 yards west. Take the main road left (south) for 200 yards.

mOthEr rOck#9 Page 7 November/December 1997

 Southeast Asian Flashback
by James March
Editors Note: James March took second place overall in the 1997 I latched down tight with my left hand in a thumb-locked side
Snow Valley Boulderfest on October 4th. A few weeks earlier, pull and moved up into the upper crack with a gaston maneuver.
he was bouldering on the beach in Thailand. The following My moves all went like poetry as I climbed to the upper "off the
article is an excerpt from the diary he kept on this trip. deck" holds. I couldn't waste any more energy chalking up again.
The hidden slab landing zone under my ascending body didn't
Koh Tao, Thailand Sept.12 1997 phase me a bit as my mind was clear and focused at the top of the
boulder. At VSR, Planet Thailand is Ao Jan Som's
Planet Thailandl It goes!!! contemporary test piece, the best one on the island if not all of
I awoke to the distant sound of thunder. Peering out through Thailand. I'm proud to dedicate it to all Khon Thai, Thai people.
my raised mosquito netting, I could see the outlines of a new As I was on a roll, I turned my eyes to my other project,
dawn. I have been on Koh Tao for eight days, and I had my early though not as epic was quite hard. It was a sit start from the sand
morning routine wired. Tung Who "espresso taste" coffee into the sloping cracks which make up the gradual slab side of
purchased in Bangkok and local Thai fruit were my body's gods. the Heaven Boulder. This middle crack I titled "Phak Bung Poo
By the time I left my bungalow, the sky above Koh Naang Ying," or Girl Heaven (VI). The moves off the sand are
Yuan island across the bay was growing darker. I knew a storm powerful liebacks on slopers, and I finally worked out the top
was blowing in, but how much time did I have before it hit? moves that are very technical and quite reachy.
I trekked the usual sandy path to Ao Jan Som, passing by the I am glad that I decided to boulder today. The rain just
little black dog with the bad attitude. It barked at me like started pissing down as I ran back to my bungalow, wet as a stray
clockwork. Some of the other stray dogs followed me to the dog, but twice as happy. Time for some good Thai fish curry.
beach to witness the amazing moves a giant gecko-man can do. Mmmmm, food always tastes better when the rains come.
I warmed up quickly on my newly-established circuit of
moderate boulder problems and felt pretty strong even though I James March lives in Venice, CA. When not in Thailand, he can
was planning on resting today. I got a half hour Thai massage often be found bouldering at Black Mountain and Horse Flats.
from a lady on the beach by the Jo Po Ro Boulder last night at
sunset. It seems to have helped me recover more quickly today. New So Cal Sport Area
The next problem to attempt was my project Planet Thailand, on There's a new hard-core sport climbing area being developed in
the well textured overhanging side of the mammoth Heaven So Cal. We can't tell you much, but we can tell you that in
Boulder. In the spring of 1996 I traveled to Koh Tao in search of addition to the route in the way-cool photo (5.13c) and a number
exotic bouldering. It was then when I climbed on this beach of other high numbers routes, there are also routes there for
titled "Ao Phak Bung", or Heaven Beach. This current visit I moderate climbers-for example, a 5.10a/b with three bolts, a
bought a new map of the island and I was confused to find out 5.10c/d with four bolts, a few more in the 5.9 to 5.10b range,
that the beach had been retitled, "Ao Jan Som", or Paradise. and a wall with several 5.8 to 5.10 toprope routes.
Either name gave justice to a place not of this earth, simply
Utopian in beauty and peace.
In 1996 I only climbed three problems here; one was the
classic crack to arete on the west prow of the Heaven Boulder. On
this visit I added a sit start to spice up "Dao Tao Noi," the Little
Turtle Star (V3). From this same dynamic opening rises Planet
Thailand to the left and up, way up. The move to get to the
main center hold went without much strain, but the hold was a
bit dirty and my footing was less then perfect so I dropped off.
I rested about five minutes and cleaned off the sloping pinch with
my wire brushed bamboo pole. During this time the wind started
blowing nice and cool as the thunderstorm advanced nearer. This
little breeze might be my ticket to success as the balmy
temperature dropped a few degrees cooler.
I chalked up good and cranked the bottom deadpoint to the
horn. Chalking up again, I crossed through with my left hand to
the upper side pull and made the long stretch to the right hand
pinch. My feet are adjusted just right to take some weight off the
thin moves. A palm branch blew down nearby as I made the
throw to the crux handhold. This time, instead of grabbing it on
the left side, I get it on the poorer right side and make the crucial
hand match. For a second I think I'm on Midnight Lightning in
Yosemite Valley. A dull thud of a dropping coconut brought me As soon as the area is completed, the developers have promised a
back into reality. I was there on the crux hold just like I had topo...so look for it exclusively in mOthEr rOck magazine some
envisioned, but I knew I could only hang on it for a short time. time in the next couple of issues!

mOthEr rOck #9 PageS November/December 1997

 Mount Whitney's East Buttress
One of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America
by Daniel Eubank
Having been "spanked" on a winter ascent of the Whitney Trail gear. I felt like a pack mule but was psyched to be in the
on Mount Whitney (the highest point in the Continental U.S.) mountains and on the Whitney trail, again. After the second
due to high gusting winds the year before, I jumped at the offer to stream crossing, we turned right, off of the Whitney Trail and
go along on a "planned" technical ascent of the East Buttress onto the Mountaineers' Route.
route (5.8, Grade III). Twenty feet up this route we were greeted by a North Fork
While getting a good pump at Jeff Lead's climbing gym one Project sign that advocated the use of "shit bags" and packing
evening, Phil, a friend of mine, told me that he had a Whitney human waste out of the area. We decided this was a good idea and
Zone Permit for four people, and only he and a single partner added a project pack to our loads.
were going. Was I interested? Outward enthusiasm was
contrasted by internal doubts about physical performance over
12,000 feet above sea level; the strenuous task of hiking the
Mountaineers' Route with full pack just to get to the base of the
climb; as well as the thoughts of mixed snow, rock, and ice
conditions, and the extra gear needed for a May ascent.
Enthusiasm immediately overcame doubt and within days I had
recruited one of my ice climbing buddies for the adventure. With
one and a half weeks to go, Phil's partner dropped out. "Would it
be OK with the three of us climbing?" "No problem." One hour
before leaving on the trip, Phil called and dropped out, citing
school and graduation requirements. What had previously been a
slot on someone else's "planned" technical ascent had now
become my own project, and my own adventure.
Matt and I slipped by Phil's to pick up the Whitney Zone
Permit, then drove seven hours north to Lone Pine, California.
We arrived at about midnight, and camped at Whitney Portal,
elevation 8,360 feet.

By noon we had reached the frozen perimeter of Lower Boy

Scout Lake, and the first continuous snow. We donned gaiters
and crampons for the necessary post-holing through the sun-
softened snow crust. A few hours later, we were hiking above
treeline. The stark, barren, white snow covered moraine above
Upper Boy Scout Lake was contrasted by the towering gray
vertical granite of Mt. Whitney. Large boulders were strewn
about like mere pebbles in comparison to the towering walls.
We struggled upward under our heavy loads and breathed heavily
in the thin high-mountain air. Rest stops had, by necessity,
become more frequent.
By late afternoon we reached Iceberg Lake, having ascended
4,140 feet in just three and one half miles. We set up base camp
at 12,600 feet and fired up dinner on the Whisper Lite stove. A
Mountain Meal Lasagna guaranteed big time "gas" for the
evening, as well as for the following day. A fitful sleep, due to
thin air and unknowns concerning the climb, faded with the
morning sunlight. A broken cloud cover caused uncertainties
about the day's weather, and much debate about it ensued. By
8:00 a.m., however, the sky was blue, the sun was shinning, and
The next day dawned clear and sunny. We strapped on packs we were scrambling up fourth class rock to the base of the East
overloaded with camping, climbing, and winter mountaineering Buttress route.

mOthEr rOck #9 Page 9 November/December 1997

 I was wearing a pair of Five.Ten Guides for this approach
and for the climb as well. Solar radiation on the rock leaves the
East Buttress free from snow for most of the year, but the descent
off Mt. Whitney would be down a snow and ice filled couloir, and
for that, we had to carry boots, crampons, and ice axes in our
packs, along with water, a little food, and our climbing gear. All
our camping/bivey gear remained back at basecamp.
The plan was to climb the East Buttress, summit Mt.
Whitney around noon, descend the John Muir Couloir in the
afternoon, and be back at the tent before dark. We roped up and
swapped leads on the first two pitches of excellent 5.8 climbing
up a reddish-brown granite dihedral crack. By the third pitch it
was clear that the combination of altitude and extra gear was
slowing us down, and that at this pace a 12:00 p.m. summit was
way too optimistic.
While belaying on the third pitch, I noticed dark clouds
moving ominously in over the mountains toward the south.
While following the pitch I looked north, and saw clouds pushing
in, and filling what had previously been all blue sky. The
weather degraded; the visibility dropped; the wind picked up; and
spindrift began to blow. The belays became chiiiily. The fun
climb became a "survival climb." Too far along (in our minds)
to rappel at this point, we climbed upward. Fortunately, the
prevailing winds were out of the west, keeping the steep East
Buttress and us somewhat sheltered from the high winds. The
seventh pitch was mixed rock, ice, and snow, making the lead,
routefinding, and protection placements more challenging. Matt
and I kept pressing for the summit. A large, blocky, granite
rock, fourth class pitch lead to the top and gale force winds.
We hastily shot a few summit photos revealing grimacing
faces, and made a beeline for the rock house at 14,495 feet on the
summit of Mt. Whitney, pausing outside only long enough to
sign the summit register. It almost blew out of our hands! Into
the rock house, and safely out of the wind, we pondered our
situation. It was 5:00 p.m., five hours later in the day than we
had originally planned for being on top. Reduced visibility and
high winds made the descent risky since we were not familiar
with the route and would not be able to see where we were going.
mOthEr rOck #9 Page 10
If we did descend, we would have about two hours to reach base
camp before dark. If we got off route on the descent (increased
probability due to lack of visibility, impending darkness, and no
familiarity), we would probably be stuck and exposed to the
elements for the whole night. After discussion, we agreed to
bivy on top of the mountain for the night.
All the goods were pulled from our packs and inventoried.
We had a bag of gorp and a few Clif Bars. I only had about a
quarter liter of water left, and we had no way to make water from
snow other than by body heat. Snow was placed into water
bottles and the bottles deposited inside our parkas. I had a space
blanket sleeping bag in my helmet liner for that "emergency
situation" and Matt also had a space blanket.
Well, our time had finally come. This was our first
"survival situation." We coiled the climbing rope on the wooden
floor and laid the packs below it for some measure of insulation.
Huddling together, each inside of our space blankets, we prepared
for a looooong, cooooold night. Time drug by, as we shivered to
keep warm in the sub-zero temperatures.
The light of dawn glimmering through the small Plexiglas
pane in the rock house door was a welcome sight. The wind was
still howling, but it was clear outside, with visibility forever.
The vistas from the highest peak in the Sierra Nevadas were
incredible. Jagged, saw-toothed granite of adjacent peaks filled
the skyline above the tree level. The descent with crampons and
ice axes was down 55 degree slopes, and a little glissading on
lower angle slopes made for an enjoyable morning return to base
camp. A cooked meal and a short nap preceded a relaxing
afternoon which was well-deserved, after a successful summit bid.
The next morning we packed up and descended the North
Fork back to Whitney Portal. The air felt thick back at 8,360
feet as we hiked into the parking lot to our car. The emotional
relief of success and completion of the goal were overwhelming.
I felt transformed by the experience, like a different entity than
before the adventure. Accomplishments in the face of adversity
add to personal strengths. It was truly a classic climb.
Daniel Eubank lives in Bonsall, CA. He can be reached by
E-mail at C339994@MDCPO302.LB.MDC.COM.
November/December 1997

Jet City
Rocket Red
By Matt Artz
Saturday morning, June 14th, 1997. I
was supposed to go climbing, but it was
cold, dark, and drizzling. Living at the
base of the San Bernardino Mountains, I
knew what this probably meant: up at
7,000 feet, it was likely to be clear and
warm. It was worth a shot, so I packed up
my gear. Just in case it was cold and
rainy up there as well, I packed two 22
ounce bottles of Jet City Rocket Red.
Wall of Voodoo's "Call of the West"
blared from the CD player in my car. At
about the 6,000 foot level, just as
predicted, the clouds broke to reveal clear,
blue skies. Down below, people were
looking for their sweaters, while I was
trying to remember if I had packed the
sunscreen.
Pulling in to the parking area at Snow
Valley West a few minutes later, I was
disturbed to see only one other car, one
that I didn't recognize. Matt Hoch, my
climbing partner for the day, hadn't
southern California's climbing magazine
PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151
Brew of the Month
shown. Damn him. He was most likely
scared away by the imposing weather. I
waited a few minutes, then grabbed my
pack and crash pad and headed out solo.
Zack Sheilds and Lisa Rands were
working "Revenge of the Klingon" on the
Left Butt Cheek formation. I talked to
them for a minute or two, then wandered
over to the Wave Boulder. I had been
working on an "obsession" problem there,
but since Matt "Beta" Hoch hadn't shown,
my motivation was low, and I sulked off
further west, off the map, into no-mans
land.
Walking haphazardly, with no real plan
and in apparently random directions,
within 20 minutes I had stumbled on a
virgin hunk of rock in a very tranquil
setting. On first inspection, the rocks
held potential for only a couple of not-too-
spectacular routes, and was really dirty.
Hardly worth the manzanita thrash. But I
decided to hang out there for the day
anyway, to enjoy the peaceful setting, do a
little cleaning, and maybe even do a
moderate first ascent or two. But mostly,
just hang out.
I was getting hungry, and a little cold.
Rather than donning a sweatshirt and
USA
forcing down a PowerBar, which would
require two complex actions, in the name
of economy I decided on a single action
which would both calm my hunger and
warm my body. Time to dig out the Jet
City Rocket Red.
I love red beer. A sandwich in every
bottle. Better red than bread. The rogue
nectar lived up to my high expectations.
My stomach full, my body warm, and my
mind rejuvinated, I spent many hours
cleaning new routes, mapping the entire
area in great detail, doing more than a
dozen first ascents, and trying a dozen or
more other projects.
Another great area discovered and
developed. Thank you, Matt Hoch, for
being intimidated that morning by the
threatening weather. And thank you, Jet
City Rocket Red, for the inspiration.
The area became officially known as
The Call of the West (see cover photo,
this issue) in honor of my CD selection
that morning. But every time I visit the
area, as songs like "Call of the West" and
"Tse Tse Fly" ring through my head, I can
almost taste the cool, refreshing goodness
of Jet City Rocket Red.
imm
HI
 What is Going on at J-Tree?
Politics and planning in a democracy are murky and muddy pro- remember the plan also calls for limiting chalk use, disallowing crack
cesses designed to allow for maximum citizen input.. On the way to cleaning, and limiting overall climbing by a permit system. Would you
achieving consensus, interest groups compete for influence over like to make reservations for a day at Josh?
decisions makers. Currently, our interest group—climbers—finds What can you do? The best thing is to support the Friends of Joshua
itself in a political showdown that could influence climbing access in Tree. They have been dealing with park officials since the bolting
all wilderness areas in the future. The Joshua Tree Draft moratorium started in 1993. One of their representatives will end up on
Backcountry and Wilderness Management Plan has four proposed the"bolting advisory committee." Become a member, or put a few
protection strategies regarding climbers and fixed anchors. The park bucks into a donation can at Nomad Ventures.
management has not yet chosen among the strategies because the You can write Mr. Quintana and mention that you support the Access
plan is currently in the public comment stage. In this period, three Funds' as well as the Friends of Joshua Tree position on this plan. What
meetings were held in which the public was encouraged to explain if you don't know their position? Check out www.outdoorlink.com/
their opinions, thoughts, or suggestions to park administration accessfund/joshuatree.html for the full story. Here you'll find Mr.
officials like Ernie Quintana. This following statement from the plan Quintana's email, address, and good things to say to him. You don't
explains why this whole ruckus started: "Use of fixed anchors (such have to be a climber to write a letter. My little daughter has written.
as expansion bolts) for rock climbing has created a need to evaluate Don't delay—You only have until February 28th to write.
whether the permanent installation of such features into rock faces is These regulations affect all climbing, and it won't do anyone good if
compatible with wilderness values and the National Park Service's you send an emotional or angry letter to Mr. Quintana. Write a logical
mandate to preserve resources unimpaired." letter with sound reasoning as to why this plan is bad for climbing and
Don't be fooled, though; the issue goes beyond bolts. Wilderness wilderness. Then get as many people you know to do the same.
encompasses a lot of land—most walls in Yosemite are considered —Rob Stauder
wilderness. Will this plan set a precedence that could make illegal
big wall nail ups on El Cap? The plan also carries regulations on
crack cleaning.
The plan also states that "Visitor access to the boulders and rock southern California's climbing magazine

faces has created multiple short trails and resource damage at the Publisher Associate Editors
base of the rocks." This means that bolts are not the only concern. The AMCC Group Aaron Rough, Rob Stauder
Unofficial trails to boulders and crags are seen as threats to re- Editor Assistnat Editor
sources. One of the results (whether intended or not) of the Wilder- Matt Artz Ruth Artz
ness Act—the act that set the Draft Backcountry and Wilderness
Management Plan in motion—will be to turn the National Park mOthEr rOck Contributors
system into a leisurely drive-through-and-snap-photos auto circuit. Louie Anderson • Max Armpet • Jason Ballas • Reed Bartlett • Diane Chakmak
The four alternative strategies outlined in the plan are: • Amos Clifford • Heather Dolph • Ted Doughty Jr. • Daniel Eubank
The Proposed Alternative—This is the one they want to adapt. It Daniel Garcia • Bob Goff • Nancy Hampton • Christian Harder • Steve Harris
allows for no new or replacement bolts in wilderness, no removal of Amy Lobsinger • Fritz Lowrey • James March • Reese Martin
Travis McElvany • Matt McGunigle • Chris Miller • Darell Palmer
vegetation from cracks, removal of all fixed slings, and the imple-
Steve Parker • Patrick Paul • Matt Polk • Matt Pollard • Ed Schmahl
mentation of a permit system for new routes. New routes with fixed Jann Senior • Rob Stauder • Brandon Thau • Randy Vogel • Todd Vogel
protection would only be allowed in the backcountry transition zone. Geoff Wade • Bruce Wiley • Bills Wong
Use of chalk would be limited. Some crags would be closed for
preservation reasons. Copyright © 1998 mOthEr rOcA/The AMCC Group. All rights reserved. mOthEr rOck
No Action Alternative—This is currently in effect; placement/ magazine is published six times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to climb
replacement of bolts is prohibited in wilderness. In non-wilderness, somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA, 92375-1151 USA. E--
mail: mOthErrOck @ aol .com -or- AMCCGrouo @ aol .com.
bolts are allowed and power drills can be used by permit.
Maximum Protection—Climbing on fixed anchors would only be Subscriptions: To subscribe for a year (six issues), send a check or money order for $10 to
allowed in the development zone. All bolts in wilderness would mOthEr rOcfc/The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151. Subscriptions
eventually be removed. Climbing in wilderness would be allowed by outside of the United States are $20 annually.
restrictive permit only. Permits would be issued on a limited basis. Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll consider it. We're a no budget
This option would hurt climbing the most, as 80% of the Park's operation, so send a SASE if you need your materials back. Photo submissions also
routes lie in wilderness. welcome. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Minimum Protection—Climbing would be managed as one of the Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you have not yet figured that out, you're
primary purposes of the park. Installation and replacement of bolts an idiot and you should probably stop climbing now before you hurt yourself and others.
would be allowed anywhere. Let's be clear: this option will not be And if you think you can bet your life or safety on anything you read in mOthEr rOck,
adopted, as anti-climbing groups have threatened to sue if it is. think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any of the information contained in
these pages, and cannot be held responsible in any way for any of your actions, acts of
As there is no chance for option 4, and option 2 has placed the
nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's the way it should be. You're a climber
park in a dangerous situation, either option 1 or option 3 will be after all.
chosen. This is bad news for climbers. It doesn't matter what kind
of climbing you do—you will be affected by these regulations if you On the Cover.
try to climb after the plan is implemented. You may be anti-bolt, but Rick Accomazzo on Flying Circus, 5.11b A4, Tahquitz.

mOthEr rOck magazine Pagel January/February 1998

 Interview with a Stonemaster
A Conversation with Robs John Muir
mOthEr rOck: Robs, has climbing brought you fame and fortune?

Robs John Muir: When I was in High School and just getting
started in climbing, fortune was never a part of the equation.
Climbing was really a fringe thing, and the commercial aspects
weren't too evident. I remember talking with Galen Rowell
after his epic on the South Face of Half Dome; his heroism on
new rock DID leave an impression on me as a sixteen-year old
kid. Guys like Royal Robbins, Glen Denny, Warren Harding,
Roper, Salathe, etc.~the big names of that time-were role
models for us. The desire was to be able to "touch" some of
their handywork, and being able to do the stuff they could do,
drove us on.
I suspect that those of us who started climbing in the Sixties
were mostly interested in getting "good" for its own sake.
Money was never even considered. Mastery was its own
reward. This was undoubtedly a good thing, since I've cer-
tainly never seen any money!
The original motivation for me to get into such a deviate
sport is lost to my feeble memory, but I was always interested
in alternatives to team sport. Things like tennis, bicycle racing,
and that kind of stuff never tall enough for basketball, not
big enough for football, not fast enough for track. Climbing
offered an exciting, mentally stimulating alternative to main-
stream stuff. And "alternative" was the operational term
during the Summer of Love.

mOm: You first started climbing in October, 1968 in Berkeley. How

did you first get introduced to this activity which would play a major
role in your life ?
Robs: I had a buddy in High School who, like me, was into
photography. We heard about a Kodak cinematography
contest which we decided to enter. Of course this was the
Sixties, so our film script had "deep" psychological and surreal
overtones. We needed some appropriate footage and we
recruited another student, who was a "rappeller," to slide
down some of his cord (artistically backlit against the sun),
which we would later post process with dayglo special effects.
All very groovy stuff, you understand.
After we got the 8mm footage, he showed us how to rappel
using his kit of multiple breakbars (probably just like they
used in the Army or something) on a single strand of 7/16"
goldline. Pretty heady stuff on the 100' sandstone crags of Mt.
Diablo! Later, I went to the library and snagged everything I
could find about climbing; I was quite shocked to learn people
really climbed UP cliffs. I thought going down was the sport!
Back in the good old days, the Sierra Club actually taught
climbing. So I joined the Berkeley RCS (Rock Climbing
Section) and, over a six-month period, learned the ropes. Our
culminating outing was the standard route on The Royal
Arches in the Valley-our first trips onto the sharp end of the
rope.
Cosmos (VI 5.10, A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, 1976. The second ascent.
This photo was taken from the top of the fifth pitch just prior to the
beginning of the first pitch ofA4 nailing.
Later, I discovered that the way to improve was to regularly
boulder at Indian Rock in Berkeley and avoid the "social climb-
ers" in the Sierra Club. Unlike the Southern California scene,
Indian Rock was in a dense urban setting and there was a strong
influence of tradition (dating back to the 1930s-40s) combined
with a large group of regulars, so you would often see the same
faces. Probably the closest thing we had to the Berkeley scene
down here was Stoney Point during the same era.
Stoney had Chouinard, Robbins (before he moved to
Modesto), and the West Ridge contingent—many of whom
worked for Don Lauria. Indian Rock had regulars like Ken
Cooke, Al Steck, Galen Rowell, and a bunch of young whipper-
snappers such as Dale Bard, Vern Clevenger, Ben Borsen, Peter
Haan, and Chris Vandever. Later, we would see Robbins show
up on Saturday mornings; he would drive over from Modesto-a
several hour trip. Indian Rock encouraged a loyal following.
mOm: How did you wind up in Southern California? Please tell me it

mOthEr rOck magazine Page 2 January/February 1998

was because the climbing is so much better here than in Northern
California...
Robs: I came down to go to college. I have an uncle who is a
UC Berkeley professor and, while I wanted to go to Berkeley, he
recommended that I go to a smaller UC as a freshman; so I chose
UC Riverside. Later, Ben Borsen came to UCR to do graduate
work and we exported the Berkeley traditions to Rubidoux. (At
least, for a period in the early Seventies.)
I liked the Mediterranean climate down here and, although
nothing compares to the unique rock of Berkeley, the granite was
firm and clean. Tahquitz was much closer than the Valley was to
the Bay Area, and we could climb throughout the winter down
here. Remember, indoor nerf climbing was not an option;
climbing was exclusively an outdoor sport. Plus, Rubidoux was
a very local crag.
My first route here was Serpentine at Suicide, which I led in
Galibier RRs~a very stiff, lug-soled boot and a standard issue
boot of the day. I was quite impressed with the Idyllwild
offerings. Big Rock, at that time, was a place you could drive
directly to and belay from the front bumper—with shade trees
and everything—so I was so pleased with the local situation and
the opportunities. ("An hour from the mountains, an hour from
the beach, an hour from the desert, in the middle of nowhere.")
With such year-round climbing, heading back to the Bay Area
never seemed too attractive...
hackles of some of the new guard when I say this, but the
hardest of problems at Rubidoux were done in the early- to
mid-seventies, and these horrendously thin cranks still remain
the hardest stuff either side of vertical. Standards are hardly
much harder than they were back in the mid-seventies in the
pure bouldering arena. (How's that for curmugeonly bait-
ing?!) This is not true for sport climbing, though...
mOm: Do you still get out to Rubidoux?
Robs: Yeah, but family and work mean that these trips aren't
quite so casual or as frequent. Several of us usually grab
chalkbags and boots, and together unconsciously recreate the
comradery we've grown up with. I still see "boulderers," but
more often I see harnesses and lycra on routes we're used to
doing in tattered cotton shorts and not much else. This seems
the new trend: to turn boulder problems into toproped sport
routes. I'm sure it's safer...
We don't mean much by it, but it's been our standard form
to continue to third-class the same stuff we've been doing for
20+ years. While I'm sure that plays wrong to some in the
audience, we are only carrying on the noble traditions that our

mOm: You used to spend a lot of time training at Rubidoux. I'm sure
you've got a thousands stories...

Robs: I met several Riverside locals initially. There was a

climbing shop called the Highland Outfitter which helped create
a focal point for climbing at the East end of the LA Basin. Guys
like Jim Hoagland, Steve Toy, Dennis Bird, the Gleason brothers,
along with John Long, Richard Harrison, Rick Accomazzo, Kevin
Powell, and Darrell Hensel helped develop a unique local scene,
albeit more of a commuter scene. For several years there, we
had regular Tuesday/Thursday afternoon sessions at Rubidoux
where we'd boulder till dark. The tradition was ropeless for the
most part, and I recall that we had several problems that we
vowed we would not do with a rope, keeping the game on a
higher plane. (Indeed, these were all eventually worked-out
despite scary groundfall prospects.)
One story, though... We had a bet with Paul Gleason, that no
one could do the center route of what is now called the "Smooth
Sole Wall" without smoothsole boots. It would be impossible to
do it without 'em, we claimed. Paul tried for a month to do it in
RRs, Kronhoffers, even SuperGuides, without success. Finally,
he succumbed to peer pressure and new technology, and got a
pair of PAs. Of course, he waltzed the thing the next day, and
the name stuck. (Once he learned the moves, he did go back and
do it in lugged boots just for spite.)
There are lots of stories, but John Long is a much better
storyteller than I! His new book does a really credible job of
creating the flavor of those days, and I highly recommend it.
It is unfortunate that the local traditions are not better pre-
served here in So Cal; with the long commutes, it's hard to The Comici Route, Cima Grande, Ire Cima di Laverado, Italy,
maintain continuity. Names like Phil Haney, Oliver Moon, and 1977. "Under variable weather (it rained on the descent), we
Phil and Paul Gleason are legendary among us old farts, yet are managed to follow all pitches free. This picture was snapped
unknown to the legions of modern Rubidoux habitues. Yet we somewhere on the third pitch (?) before the wall switches from
see all their problems in the modern guidebooks. I may raise the
merely vertical to overhanging limestone."

mOthEr rOck magazine PageS January/February 1998

predecessors modeled for us! (grin)

mOm: Did you do the first ascent of The Beach Problem at

Rubidoux? It's right next to one with your name on it... "Boulder. There
Robs: The only "Beach Problem" I know of at Rubidoux was
is no substitute
put up by Ben Borsen and me back in 1970/71. We didn't call
it that, back then. The name got changed after we started
for touching
working out at Pirate's Cove down in Corona Del Mar (where stone, no
Ricky Accomazzo and I shared a house during college). The
low start just felt like a Rubidoux equivalent of Diamond 'training' that
Man... Lynn Hill and I worked out some cool eliminates to
"up" the interest level. I also managed to do the Beach as a can take the place
one-arm problem, avoiding the overhang by starting just left of
the usual sit-down start; Largo is the only one to have repeated
of rock sense.'n
it to my knowledge. At least I witnessed this Largo claim, so
we can trust its veracity!
When Jim, Steve Toy, and I worked out the moves to Valhalla
mOm: You're the founding member of the Stonemasters, because and eventually completed the route without falls on the third
you did the first continuous lead of Valhalla, 5.11a, at Suicide (in the
attempt, we had arrived—in our none-too-humble opinions. I
Spring of 1972). How exactly did the Stonemasters get started—by think we really frustrated Bud Couch, who wanted to finish
accident, by design, or by destiny? Valhalla in one go; but he had left the route stand for many
months, and we felt justified. It didn't help to have a dozen later
Robs: Towards the end of my second year at UCR, I was ascents happen almost overnight, by a ragtag bunch of kids who
feeling pretty comfortable with So Cal granite. I was living in hadn't paid any serious dues yet. But such is youth.
a house with several other climbers, and Jim Hoagland and I I transferred down to UC Irvine that Fall. There, I met even
began testing the hard new routes at Suicide that Bud Couch younger lads like Mike Graham, Steve West, and Tobin
had been constructing with his (older) friends. Once we Sorrenson. We were working at a ski and climbing shop in
realized that things like Sundance, the Iron Cross, and Newport Beach, and during the many slow times we would talk
Chingadera (at Tahquitz) were do-able, we began pushing "rock." Grammicci got the idea into his head that Valhalla
hard faces with our smooth-soled boots like PAs, and later, should serve as a the rite of passage for the truely hard. He even
EBs. collected a list of the first dozen or so ascents. The idea arose
Rubidoux, in addition to being a bouldering haunt, became among us that we should label the "in crowd" accordingly; hence
a place where we would practice moves we imagined to be the Stonemaster moniker. Mike even chose a lightning bolt as a
like the cruxes on the routes we "wanted" in Idyllwild. The logo. (You gotta remember that this was a beach town, so the
hottest thing on the planet (to our way of thinking) was the surfing mindset was inbred in these guys.)
new Couch route, Valhalla. They had done all the hard work When Ricky Accomazzo joined the UCI crowd and also got
of placing the bolts and done each individual pitch, but (we hired at Ski Mart, we really had a nucleus. Originally, the plan
believed) that Couch, Larry Reynolds, and Mike Dent had still among some was to limit the Stonemaster roster to those who
to do the first continuous ascent. We waited, for a suitably were on the first ten ascents of Valhalla, but no one took this
respectful length of time, but the stylish single push didn't seriously. Basically, if you were among the cliche you were in.
come. The rumor was, this puppy was the first 5.11 face in the So anyone with merit, who frequented the crags and pitched
U.S., and was harder than other face routes in the Valley. Since their tent in the movable, communal campsite, could wear the
we were on a roll, having just done an early ascent of the Iron metaphoric badge.
Cross, we started loitering around under Valhalla. We would jokingly form impromptu Stonemaster trips to El
Hoagland was a quiet, very intense boulderer and the first Grand Trono Blanco or to J-Tree or to Granite Mountain (not the
pitch of Valhalla looked to us like a boulder problem. With a one in Prescott!), bag lots of new routes, have thrilling adven-
HUGE aura. So, one afternoon, we clipped the first bolt and tures and never tell our parents—because they would never
several falls later, we found ourselves at the end of the first understand. We would hold mass ascents of new routes in
pitch. Idyllwild-sometimes with six or eight in the party-just because
The next weekend, I led the first pitch without a fall, so we someone mentioned a new project and the rest of us had no
were clearly learning the moves. Jim took several longish other plans for the day. I even remember us doing silly things
whippers on the crux of the second pitch, and we bailed later, like mass free-solo ascents of "The Open Book"!
quite mentally initimidated. (Couch, by the way, had numer-
ous times happened below "his" routes to see us kids; both Jim mOm: Valhalla is legendary, and recently celebrated its 25th anniver-
and I were quite cowed by his presence. Largo does a good job sary. In 1998, does it live up to the legend you helped create in 1972?
painting the tension we budding Stonemasters felt.) A week or
two later—after serious bouldering sessions at Rubidoux—we Robs: I'm not convinced that legends are consciously created
returned with very calloussed tips. Jim also brought along a unless one can manipulate the media. Clearly, we Stonemasters
different shoe for each foot—a stiff one for that too-small, sharp spun a few yarns over the years, but the climbing community
edge on the crux.

mOthEr rOck magazine Page 4 January/February 1998

jointly and collectively crafts its own mythologies over time.
Valhalla is a quality route and set new precidents for difficulty; it
ushered in a new era of thin face climbing. For that, Bud Couch belay; that was the end of the day for us.
deserves far more recognition in the historic pantheon than the
present mythology includes. And there are other, bolder leads
around; but Valhalla remains a lovely milestone in California
climbing...kind of like the Open Book marks Robbins'
trendsetting first 5.9, or Cenotaph Corner (in Wales) fits into
British climbing history.
mOm: Is there any secret beta on Valhalla you can share with the
readers ofmOthEr rOck?
Robs: Uh...No. There really isn't any secret. The glory of that
route is that everything is so out in the open, with nothing to
hide. (But, to truely enter the land of Valhalla, you must climb
directly between the two larger knobs on the third pitch...)
mOm: When's the last time you climbed Valhalla?
Robs: Damned if I can remember. Probably in the late
seventies...We used to do it quite regularly.
mOm: You also used to train at the Mt. Baldy Boulders, which in
recent years have been plagued with access problems. Do you still go Hangover (5.12). It's a whole lot safer than the Circus, yet it
there?
Robs: You bet. However, I gotta take notice of your word,
"train". Back then, we never trained. We went climbing. It was
not a means to an end; it was the end.
There has been a bit of a resurgence there lately, though
access remains a problem. It's wonderful...every ten years,
someone rediscovers old Harrison or Largo problems, and
claims them as first ascents. Which, in a way, they are. This area Robs: Naw. It was never like that. If you had the moxie, you
was originally developed by Paul Gleason and he shared the
secret with us back in 1971/72. Even I keep rediscovering stuff
we were doing 25 years ago! I look forward to even more first
ascents as my Alzheimers progresses.
the rope.
Rick did some really stout face moves up to the hanging
On the third weekend, it was my turn to explore the second
pitch. Chuck stayed on the ground to snap photos-he would
eventually jumar up to the belay stance so that he could finish
as well. I took one very long fall of about 40 feet or more in an
effort to place the bolt above a good sized knob; the second
effort got me onto the knob. But Rick decided to christen that
pitch "The Muir Trail."
mOm: Any thoughts on why, 20 years later, nobody has nabbed the
second ascent of Flying Circus? Do you have any desire to go out
there and climb this again ?
Robs: Chuck went back with Gibb Lewis and traversed in to
the section above the aid, I'm told, from the right. But, you're
right. I don't know of anyone who has repeated the Circus
properly.
I've actually had someone in the last year or so ask me if I
wanted to climb Flying Circus. I politely told him that I had
already done it, and had absolutely no interest in absorbing
that much adrenaline in one dose!
Another obscure, little-repeated route at Tahquitz is The
too is about 20 years old. But the numbers and the difficulty of
these routes have far less impact on me now than the people
and the experiences of those times.
mOm: Were there any "almost" Stonemasters, guys who were
trying to climb Valhalla, but couldn't do it, and never quite made it
into the "club?"
were a Stonemaster. No dues, no cards, no club. Just a wry
poke at the mountaineering clubs of the past...

mOm: Tell me about Flying Circus, 5.lib A4, at Tahquitz, which you
climbed with Rick Accomazzo in August, 1978 (pictured on the cover
of this issue).

Robs: Ricky had been looking at that area to the left of the
Green Arch for quite some time. I thought it looked like a daft
project, with some obvious and scary aid. But Charles Cole,
Ricky, and I were coming down from something else, walked
underneath it, and decided to waste some time scoping it out.
After a quick 40 feet of pretty cool moves, the wall really over-
hangs, the crack peeters out, and the start of more familiar
(though steep) face climbing looked within reach. There was
just that little aid bit. But the upper face looked really sound!
We came back the next weekend, Ricky did some very shakey
overhanging hook moves off a RURP and eventually sank a bolt
above the overhanging bit. We left a 9mm cord fixed, so that we
could come back the next weekend and carry on.
Interestingly, the next Saturday we discovered that some
Quartz Isicle (HVS), Wen Zawn, Hollyhead, Wales, 1977.
scumbag had cut the cord about six feet above the ground, and
"After rapping down to the North Sea, we climbed out crossing the
the wind had lofted the remainder onto some knobs WAY off the
Dream of White Horses."
deck over by "Ski Tracks!" It took us a very long time to lasso

mOthEr rOck magazine Page 5 January/February 1998

mOm: As a group, did the Stonemasters die, or just fade away?
When did it come to an end? Are you still in contact with any of the
guys?

Robs: Some (sadly) died, some have faded, and some climb
stronger (well... maybe wiser) than before. We sometimes run
into each other at the crag, and we sometimes exchange Xmas
cards. Access Fund meetings are sometimes a draw; several
years ago, a photo was taken of some of the motley crew.
Like the mountains we all love, the experience of climbing
is highly personal. My experience so far is that the shared
bonds we enjoyed years ago were hard tempered with fire. I
expect them to remain intact if not strengthen over time.
Back in Berkeley, I remember watching old guys in their 60s
and 70s, slowly bicycle to Indian Rock and then proceed to
whip off 20 fingertip pullups on Lichman's Lick, as we called
it. Shaming us all. I wish there were more role models like
that today; those guys gave me hope that climbing isn't only a
Robs at work: "Seems like the 'Net is just another new frontier
young person's sport, but something we can do for a long
time. to explore-not unlike Tahquitz in the seventies..."
was looking at El Capitan from the meadow recently, and
mOm: It seems like lately you spend a lot of your summers up in the thought that its been too long...
Eastern Sierra, at your cabin, doing some mountaineering and
putting up new routes? mOm: In 1990 and 1991, you participated in a few So Cal indoor
climbing contests, didn't you?
Robs: Not so much mountaineering, but technical rock routes
in the backcountry... Great adventure, wonderful scenery, and Robs: As a lark. I have access to a few indoor walls where I can
zero posing and posturing. The Whitney Portal has really go to loosen up and, for a while there, I thought the competition
courageous ground-up routes of really spectacular quality in stuff was cute. But lately I've come to the opinion that the
some cases, and absolutely no crowds. Plus, I can take a bouldering comps and such are OK only if people can avoid
shower afterwards! taking them seriously. For the younger set, this is sometimes not
easy. Gawd, I'd hate to see climbing become like skateboarding!
mOm: Do you follow current climbing news? What do you think of I can just see the ESPN-2 coverage now...
some of the amazing young climbers like Chris Sharma and Katie
Brown, or our very own local, Matt Hoch? mOm: You're considered one of the elite of the climbing community.
Does that carry any burden? Does it in any way interfere with your
Robs: Sorry, but I find most of the climbing mags really ability or desire to "just go climbing? "
lacking in the celebration of the process. It's kinda funny, but
this interview is just the type of stuff that I would never read Robs: Something is only a burden, if you decide to carry it.
in the "fashion rags" coming out of Colorado. There are so many better climbers than I, who work much harder
I remember walking with Johnny up at Rubidoux and than I do, to do what they do so well. They rightly carry that
marveling at the sheer, embarrassing idolatry that some mantle. This late in the game though, I really value my precious
climbers demonstrated, once they recognized Largo's mug time at the crags. It's a pleasure to avoid the trappings and "just
from the back of his books! I don't know Chris, Katie, or Matt, go climbing."
but I'm guessing that they probably won't continue long
climbing if celebrity status is their primary goal. The rocks- mOm: Climbing has changed a lot in the last couple of decades: hi-tech
and the friendships made along the way—will be here long gear, sticky rubber, rap-bolted sport routes, greatly increased popular-
after the ink has dried and the newsprint has faded. ity, etc. In your opinion, have these changes resulted in postitive or
negative effects on climbing?
mOm: What's the best route you've ever done in California?
Robs: I once had favorite shoes in for a resole job and decided to
Robs: The last one. Always the last one! In this particular take an old pair of EBs out toRubidoux. Scared myself silly on
case, a wonderful trip this Fall in to Charlotte's Dome.) Super- even moderate problems! A lot of newer gear has justifiably
latives really don't apply when the experiences are individu- replaced older stuff... I tend to gravitate towards routes that
ally unique. have been done from the ground-up and I'm far less interested in
sport routes. Difficulty for difficulty's sake on longer routes
mOm: Wliat's number one right now on the Robs Muir list of doesn't attract me anymore. (Time is a factor, but so is my
must-do climbs? pride...those new routes are really impressive!) Bouldering is a
different matter, though; I still like working out those short, hard
Robs: Probably getting off the couch to do another big wall. I problems.

mOthEr rOck magazine Page 6 January/February 1998

 Robs: Boulder. There is no substitute for touching stone, no
"training" that can take the place of rock sense. And the only
way to build that subconscious skill-set is to move on real rock.
If you leave the gear at home sometimes and reduce the sport
to its essence—a chalkbag, sticky edges, and a few friends~the
activity really gets internalized.
Oh. And, as Bob Dylan said, "Don't follow leaders; watch
for parking meters."

mOm: Thanks, Robs, for taking the time to talk to the readers of
mOthEr rOck!

Robs: Cheers.

Summers in the Sierra...the Muir cabin. an Red :

iffes
I don't think you'll get me to denegrate the new, and pine-
away for the "good old days." Change brings both negative and
positive effects. I do miss the celebration of boldness, though.

mOm: What keeps you busy these days? It was Saturday. I was at Snow Valley, at the Incognito Boul-
ders, working some silly new problem. It was not that hard,
Robs: I have been teaching physics and computer education but I was tired after a full day of boudlering. As I usual do
courses and I also teach graduate courses during the Summer. when I'm by myself and fail on a new project, when I finally
More recently, I have become a Systems Administrator and gave up, I brushed the chalk from the holds then threw dirt on
Network Manager for the school district where I live. Seems that them. It was mine, damn it. If I couldn't have it that day,
I spend more time in phone closets and on keyboards than REAL nobody could.
stuff like family and friends. On Sunday, MikeBoschma, Matt Artz, and I decided to go
up together. I went back to this same project, less than 24
mOm: Sounds quite different from climbing... hours after my last failure, and DAMN IT! There was fresh
chalk all over the stupidboulder! I was pissed! I didn't even
Robs: I get to deal with all sorts of events. On one day a few want it any more. So I let Mike have it.
months ago, I personally received more than 3,500 E-mail Mike was tentative at the bottom, but made it up to the
messages during a spamming attack, but managed to keep the easier part at the top. Rather than manteling over
systems alive! Within the next 18 hours, I managed to track the immedaitely, he decided to remove the nasty branch that was
twit to a dialup port of an internet service provider on the East poking him in the ass. He started pulling, and I walked
Coast. They were able to identify the jerk, but couldn't release around the corner. I looked up, and saw this incredibly
the name without a search warrant. So, there I was, calling beautiful, smooth dihedral, about 15 feet tall, perfect 90
Reston, Virginia and talking with an FBI dude getting the skinny degrees, but no seam in the middle—the ultimate stem job!!!
on how to prosecute. Gawd, I could tell the Special Agent was As I stood there drooling, I heard a crack—the entire tree Mike
wearing aviator shades even over the phone! Seems like the 'Net was "pruning" on was coming down, right down the dihedral!
is just another new frontier to explore-not unlike Tahquitz in the I yelled TIMBER!!!!
seventies... I turned to run out of the way, and that's when things got
weird. Through the trees, down in the main drainage, I saw
mOm: What about your family? Do you take your young sons something moving. After doing a triple-take, I realized it was
climbing? a giraffe. It was full-on running towards the road, being
chased by a pair of wildebeast. The wildebeast chased the
Robs: Michael and Galen are mildly interested, but soccer and giraffe down the drainage, then down Highway 18. The
other diversions are more important to them. They've spent giraffe started getting pissed, trying to head-butt a Dodge
quite a bit of their pre-walking days in the child carrier at the mini-van on the highway. Then someone yelled "Mobius!," as
base of climbs, so they've learned that climbing isn't much of a Troy Mayer pulled up in his truck, and then he tried to run the
spectator sport! If (or when) they're ready, they know where the irate giraffe off the road. By this time, out of nowhere, a crowd
gear is. Extrinsic motivation is no substitute for the intrinsic had gathered. I have not seen this many people at Snow
kind. Plus, they'll always have a climbing partner when they're Valley since the Boulderfest. It was quite cool.
ready. Then I woke up.
I blame it on the 22 ouncers of Mallard Bay Red Ale I had
mOm: What advice would you give a young climber starting out for dinner last night. I highly recommend this brew, whether
today? or not you're a climber. I'm going to buy a few more tonight
on the way home from picking up the food stamps.
mOthEr rOck magazine Page 7 January/February 1998
 The State of the Union
An Update on Climbing Areas in Southern California
by Aaron Rough
We the people of the United States of, blah, blah, blah, blah.
Let's get right down to the important stuff. Southern Califor-
nia may or may not be the best place in the world to be a
climber, but we are luckily blessed with great weather and a
fair number of pretty good crags. Trying to keep track of it all
can get a little confusing, so here's a summary of most of the
crags, all wrapped up with a nice little bow of the latest news.
Owl Tor
This formerly top secret area is also known as "Silly Rock." It
got it's claim to fame from the now defunct Allez magazine
and some mentions in the big rags. It features overhanging
sandstone conglomerate sport routes of extreme difficulty. I
recently made the pilgramage to the area armed with the new
Tom Slater guidebook to the San Luis Obispo Area. If drilled
routes are your cup of tea, this place will suit you just fine.
Santa Barbara Areas
With lots of new routes and bouldering problems going up at
places like Wheeler, Fire Crags, Pine Mountain, and Tar Creek
(Rock & Ice, Issue #77), Santa Barbara is definately a local
hotspot. Bouldering seems to be the new trend, and for the
latest check out Steve Edwards' new bouldering guide for the
area.
Santa Monica Mountain Areas
Definately an up and coming area. Check out Rock & Ice, Issue
#82 for interem topos before Louie Anderson's mOthEr rOck
guide to the area is available. Also, Malibu Creek's polished
breccia and steep sport routes make the area worth the drive.
Stoney Point
To tell the truth, I don't really know what the current scene
here is. On rec.climbing on the Internet, someone mentioned
some possible damage to some popular boulders from bull-
dozers?!? Anyone have the scoop? Give us abuzz...
Texas Canyon
We don't have any information on new routes other than those
reported in Troy Mayer's "orange" Sport Climbing Guide, but
rumour has it that Vasquez Rocks/Agua Dulce is seeing new
development.
Horse Flats
James March and Co. have been adding new boulder prob-
lems, and a possible new guide is in the works. Keep your
fingers crossed!
Devils Punchbowl
It always amazes me how little traffic the sport climbing at
Devils Punchbowl gets. This place features steep pocketed
sandstone conglomerate sport routes. The trad/TR group is
always present in Devils Punchbowl propper, but the northern Margaritaville
Sport Area is where it's at for the 5.11 and up leader. This This not-so-secret spot has recieved passing mention in Climbing
mOthEr rOck magazine PageS
place gets my best crag/least visited vote. New hard routes have
gone up on the Hidden Wall and some new stuff may be slated
for the Gorilla Face. A good albeit short introductory route to the
area is Black Listed, 5.Ha, on the Little Attitude Wall.
Williamson/Tunnel Mountain
Williamson has long been So Cal's premiere sport area on frac-
tured granite. Something for everyone is up there, and the
London Wall recently recieved a new route just right of KAOS. El
Nino, 5.11a/b, goes up a slab to a long vertical wall. Check out
the new Mobius pocket guide for the latest information. Tunnel
Mountain is the new crag located on the East side of the tunnels
on Highway 2. Located right off the road and featuring more
than 30 bolted sport routes, some multi-pitch, this area has a new
guide available through REI.
Mt. Clark
Ahhh... Mt Clark. Limestone. Exposure. Steep Routes. Some of
the mOthEr rOck crew, myself included, became instantly ad-
dicted when we checked this place out. Randy Leavitt and Co.
have done a great job of putting killer overhanging sport routes
up near Primm. Look for the beta in the up and coming Vertical
Brain guide to Vegas Limestone. I've talked to Mick Ryan at
Vertical Brain Publishing; the tenative release is slated for March,
and he promises this will be THE guide to get. I believe him!
Jackhammer
You say "Jackhammer" what? Yes, this new bouldering area is 15
miles north of Barstow on Ft. Irwin Road on the right hand side.
Park right next to the super-featured breccia crag featuring tall,
steep bouldering. Bring a crash pad and a friend to spot you on
the roof!
New Jack City
It's now winter again, so that means Jack Is Back! A lot of moder-
ate lines have been added to round the area out for all levels of
ability. Moderate crankers shold check out the White Face, while
experts should proceed directly to the Roadside Crag or Predator
walls. No-approach sport climbing awaits!
High Desert
A little birdy told me some climbers have been crashing the
Cemetary closure! Come on guys, you're only hurting the
chances of getting the access to the area figured out. If you gotta
do the desert thing, climb at the BMX Crags, or the Dead Zone on
the backside. Both areas have plenty of routes of all grades, and
there are some new routes on some of the larger formations
above the BMX Crags. These should be publicized when the
acces issue is ressolved. Also, Hercules' Finger is a little harder to
get to now days. The BLM wants you to park on the main road
and hike the half mile to the formation instead of driving. Rea-
son: too many people are taking too many different paths to the
rock and are causing damage to the desert plant ecology.
January/February 1998
and has been kicked around the local scene for a while.
Charles Cole and the Five.Ten crew have put up more than 200
moderate routes on the large rock formations easily seen while
driving to the other High Desert areas. From Bear Valley Road
look just left of the Cemetary and way back in a large canyon it
sits at the base of a hill. Take really crappy and bumpy dirt
roads East from Joshua Road and follow them towards the hill
with the formations. It takes about 45 minutes from the BMX
Center, and you'll pass numerous stakes with Five.Ten stickers
on them that lead the way. The routes I sampled were mostly
easy slabby stuff. Some were missing first hangers. Maybe
someday the information will be published, but I wouldn't
hold my breadth. Maybe if lots of people start going out there
the developers will publish information about the area!
Grapevine
Another "secret" area. It was closed a couple of years back
when the Cajon Pass went up in flames, but the BLM has
recently opened up road access. From Bear Valley turn right
on Central and head South and up the hill to the large obvious
formations. This area has more than 100 routes spread out
over a large area. Several pictures have appreared in the
Gallery sections of Rock & Ice and Climbing. The climbs were
labeled "San Bernardino Mountains," and were Vertical Analy-
sis and Armegeddon Crack.
Arrowhead Pinnacles/Rotten Rock Valley
Lots of routes have gone up at this relatively unknown area. If
you want the beta, join the Rim of the World Climbing Club
(ROWCC) based out of the San Bernardino Mountains. Pat
Brennan's guidebook with more than 200 routes, mostly bolted
sport climbs, is available from the ROWCC.
Snow Valley
The site of the HUGELY successful 1997 Boulderfest. With
more than 350 problems and more on the way, this mountain Photo: Matt Artz.

granite area will be THE bouldering area for So Cal when the
temperatures heat back up. Matt Artz has recently been
developing several new areas at Snow Valley, despite the cold,
and has added another 40-50 problems on previously over-
looked and under-climbed boulders mostly in the Snow Valley
West area.
Mill Wash/Forest Falls Areas
Another NEW area. This place features mostly bouldering on
excellent sandstone and now has more than 100 problems (see
photo). Nearby, the Mentone Boulders have some new bolted
routes (see Issue #8 of mOthEr rOck for details), and Issue #9 of
mOthEr rOck included topos for the Mill Wash Boulder. This
boudler has atleast 17 problems on it. Close by, hard new
bolted sport routes have gone up at Frustration Creek; look for
a possible topo and route descriptions in a Spring issue of
mOthEr rOck. Brandon Thau has recently added a couple of
new routes at Frustration Creek.
Keller Peak and Vicinity
With the recent bolting controversy and subsequent choppings
now over, Keller Peak has faded to its previous backwater
status. New boudler problems and walls in the area with route
potential were cut short by Winter, but will be picked up again
in the Spring. Some ROWCC members have been developing
some new walls out there. Zack Sheilds and Matt Artz are
developing a new semi-secret bouldering spot several miles
mOthEr rOck magazine Page 9
Aaron Rough on "Mean Machine," V2/V3?, at the new sand-
stone bouldering area near Forest Falls in the Mill Wash.
from here that is said to hold hundreds and hundreds of
problems...
Big Bear Areas
Chris Miller has been adding routes to the main Pinnacles
area, and someone has been developing the large blocks on the
northwest shores of Baldwin Lakes. Nearby, the 9,000 Foot
Crag, Onyx Summit, The Coven (in Fawnskin), and Castle
Rock all have good routes for hot Summer days. Matt Hoch
and crew have been developing a new boudlering area some-
where near here.
DMZ/Giant Rock/Jugs Over The Sand
These areas feature bouldering and sport routes on Josh-like
rock. See directions and topos in Issue #6 of mOthEr rOck, and
in Craig Fry's So Cal Bouldering Guide.
Joshua Tree
Check out Chris Miller's J-Tree update in Issue #6 of mOthEr
rOck. Also, J-Tree is facing a new climbing management plan
that may end climbing as we know it in the park. Please look
in this issue to find info on how we can fight this crap!
Mt. Rubidoux/The Quarry
Mt. Rubidoux has been pretty quiet as of late...no real surprise
there. The Quarry has seen some fairly recent development on
January/February 1998
the South Facing Buttress. A glue-up, a bolted crack, and a
slab route all went up. Some of the bolts have been scalped, so
be forewarned. I've got a copy of the old guide, if you're
interested in any information E-mail me at roughit2@juno.com.
Box Springs
Box Springs is now in prime condition for climbing. This
climbing is on rock similar to Mt. Rubidoux and features sport,
multi-pitch, trad, and bouldering. With more than 50 routes
up and more on the way, a new guide or update will be in
order when the magic 100 number is reached. Some new faces
are showing up, and I'm no longer the only one out there
putting up new routes. We've recently added eight new steep
climbs on the "Sleeper" wall, ranging from 5.9 to 5.13? Plenty
of good stuff awaits, and with more than 30 short (mostly
sport) routes up on the main wall ranging from 5.7 to 5.12b,
everyone should be able to find something. Look at the
mOthEr rOck Web page for guidebook ordering info (blatant
self-plug).
Black Mountain/Idyllwild Bouldering
Lots of bouldering action going with lots of new hard BPs. Matt Hoch on "Necessary Faggery," V7, his new mega-hard
The road is in pretty poor condition, but the great rock and boulder problem in the Cap Rock area at Joshua Tree.
boulder problems make it worth the hassle. James March has
Juniper Flats/Neuvo/Menifee
promised an update for a future issue of mOthEr rOck.
Killer bouldering! Unfortunately, more rumours of chipping,
glueing, and bolting of previously established routes. What
Bridwell/Palm Springs Areas
gives, people? For references to the area, check out Craig Fry's
Not everyone will enjoy this area, but it is a great training crag
So Cal Bouldering Guide.
if you leave your ethics at the door. The large granite forma-
tion in the back of the canyon was covered in Issue #8 of Corona Del Mar
mOthEr rOck, and is highly recommended. Bridwell's steep Great gritty sandstone bouldering, right on the beach. Go in
sport "creations" will get your forearms pumping. If you visit the evening after a warm breezy day and you'll love it. Go any
the area, don't jump the fence; hike the hill and ridge to the left other time and you'll hate it. Bring a brush for the sand, and a
for LEGAL access. Nearby, Chiraco Summit has recieved some carpet to wipe the feet off before climbing. Again, see Craig
development. Look at the Rock and Road Guide or Web page Fry's So Cal Bouldering Guide.
for information.
Orange County
Tahquitz/Suicide Rumour has it there is a new sport crag out there. Anyone
The old stand-bys. Winter makes these areas out of season, but want to share the information?
they are definately the premiere multi-pitch areas around. A
new route recently went up on Tahquitz, but we don't have the The Larks
information yet. Josh-like bouldering with 300+ problems already up, and
potential for more. Look in Issue #168 of Climbing for informa-
Big Rock/L-Slab tion. This area is seeing quite a bit of traffic, so let's remember
Ummm....Big Rock is still there! If you are looking for some to keep our impact low—please pick up all trash, whether it's
slab climbing but are sick of Big Rock, check out the L-Slab. yours or not!
Located just Northeast of Bernasconi Road, it was featured in
the first edition of Troy Mayr's Sport Climbing Guide, but Otay & Poway
dropped from the second edition. Maybe we'll have to publish I don't know much about the areas. From what I've been told,
a topo in an upcoming issue of mOthEr rOck... Also, rumor has Otay is short and severley bolted. Poway is good, but quite a
it that some new bouldering is happening out there. hike. San Diego climbers, give us some information!

Temecula Domes Corte Madera

This area sees absolutely NO traffic. The area was featured in
Issue #31 of Rock & Ice, and features more than 40 routes. The
main problems are: rattlesnakes, man-eating manzanita, gun
wielding marijuana growers/meth lab operators, and hard to
find legal parking. One of these days I'll head back down
there to get the current scoop.
Sport Boulder/Mushroom Boulder
Some new stuff is going up, but rumours of chipping and
glueing are flying. If you know what's up, please E-mail us.
This large crag saw print in Issue #9 of mOthEr rOck, and Rock
& Ice Issue #168.
As far as I know, this is where climbing in So Cal currently
stands. This will hopefully give you a somewhat complete
update about what is going on. If you have any additional
information you would like to share, please E-mail
motherrock@aol.com or roughit2@juno.com. Hope to hear
from everyone soon!

mOthEr rOck magazine Page 10 January/February 1998

 SoCa
•• .

Dave's Deviation, Tahquitz, 5.9

featured and your feet almost never are trying to stuff in the
There are others, but the first, best finger crack I thought of
crack. The pro is good and the location is super. It is the cleanest
was Dave's Deviation at Tahquitz. Rated 5.9, it is classic finger
way up a large boulder and the route curves a little to the right,
crack climbing. Repeated, technical fingerlocks for seventy
so that when you are belaying up at the lip, you can watch your
feet, bomber protection (lots of small wires), and fairly steep
second doing the moves as they work their way towards you.
(slightly less than vertical) make this one of my favorites of its
Not super hard, but super classic. In fact, I should get in the car
kind.
right now and go do it by headlamp. One of the last times I did I
—Michael Lane
did it with Hans Florine and some other folks. It got dark while
the second was doing the route, but Hans always wanted to get
Perfect Fingers, Joshua Tree, 5.10b
in one more route, so we lowered an end to him and he tied in
My favorite finger crack in southern California is "Perfect
and started cranking. The start of the crack is pretty far to the
Fingers" on Queen mountain in Joshua Tree. I'm pretty sure
side and since he didn't have any pieces in he would have taken a
that it's 5.10b. It features excellent finger locks, requires a nice
huge ugly pendulum if he fell. With his normal confidence he
move to get from crack to face over a roof, and beautiful
said not to worry about it and cranked his way up the crack,
location and exposure and a great opportunity for pictures.
following the faint glow of chalk on the side of the crack to figure
"White Rain" is a 5.11 face climb about 100 yards to the right.
out where the crack was. He made it to the belay with no prob-
There is also an excellent 5.8(?) crack between these two
lem, and we rappelled in the dark and staggered out to the car to
climbs.
end another good day at Josh.
-Pat Lott
-Reed Bartlett
Airy Interlude and Sea of Tranquility, The Needles
Flower of a High Rank, Suicide, 5.9
"Airy Interlude," 5.9+, or "Sea of Tranquility," 5.12a,
Sustained 5.9 climbing for a full pitch. There's a really strenous
come to mind.
move around the tree mid way up.
-Reese Martin
-Ben Craft
Bird of Fire, Joshua Tree, 5.10a
Solo Crack, Kindergarten Rock, 5.10a
High Crux, well protected, steep, outrageously good finger
Located on a little-known crag near Keller Peak in the San
jams, and good exposure...plus there are almost no crowds...
Bernardino Mountains, it's about 20feet of perfect finger crack,
—Sven Khatri
slightly offset so that non-crack climbers like myself can still
enjoy the hell out of it by liebacking it. Solo if you dare: the
Rubicon, Joshua Tree, 5.10d
landing is a little rough, so if you're at all unsure, throw on a TR.
It's just a really fun route with super cool moves. It isn't a
-Matt Artz
super pure crack in that the face around the crack is pretty

southern California's climbing magazine

PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151 USA
 ornia's climbing magazine it

Issue #11 •il 1998

 Letter from the Editor...
Better Late than Never?
It's not big news to loyal mOthEr rOck subscribers that this issue is
late....really late. I could fill the whole issue by listing all of the
excuses, but I won't.
This issue is a little different than past issues. And I don't mean
just the fancy new logo on the cover, either. This issue contains a
special pull-out bouldering guide to Enlightenment Ridge at Pine
Mountain. When Reese Martin sent me the materials for the article
on Enlightenment Ridge, I realized that is was going to fill up the
majority of the issue. So why not format it as a mini-guidebook,
something more convenient to take along in the day pack on
bouldering excursions to Pine Mountain? Hopefully the extra time
and expense in producing this issue in this way was worth it to you.
Tommy Caldwell catches air in the elite competition at the
Phoenix Bouldering Contest. Photo by Ed Wetherell.
Please E-mail me with your feedback, so I can determine whether or
not to go down this path again in future issues.
El Nino has been pretty harsh on the So Cal climbing scene. The
road to Pine Mountain covered by a landslide, the Santa Monicas
closed for a while because of trail washouts, Snow Valley under
eight feet of snow, and numerous other temporary closures due to
high water and snow. It should make for an interesting summer, as
climbers flock to the higher elevations to escape the heat, yet are
forced to deal with heavy vegetation growth and increased bug
populations in the aftermath of our unusually wet winter.
Although this issue was late, you should know that Issues #12 and
#13 are already well underway. We're working on lots of local stuff,
as well as a couple of potential stories from as far away as Colorado
and Antarctica. Articles you might see in the next couple of issues
include:
• To V or Not to V? The V-scale hits So Cal.
• John Sherman Interview: Verm talks a little about climbing, and
a lot about his other favorite passtime: beer drinking.
• Table Mountian: Max Armpet's spring ascent of this Sierra peak.
• The Happy Boulders: Do they live up to the hype?
mOthEr rOck magazine
southern California's climbing magazine
Publisher Associate Editors
The AMCC Group Aaron Rough, Rob Stauder
Editor Assistant Editor
Matt Artz Ruth Artz
mOthEr rOck Contributors
Louie Anderson • Max Armpet • Jason Ballas • Reed Bartlett
Diane Chakmak • Amos Clifford • Heather Dolph • Ted Doughty Jr.
Daniel Eubank • Daniel Garcia • Bob Goff • Nancy Hampton
Christian Harder • Steve Harris • Amy Lobsinger • Fritz Lowrey
James March • Reese Martin • Travis McElvany • Matt McGunigle
Chris Miller • Darell Palmer • Steve Parker • Patrick Paul • Matt Polk
Matt Pollard • Ed Schmahl • Jann Senior • Rob Stauder • Brandon Thau
Randy Vogel • Todd Vogel • Geoff Wade • Bruce Wiley • Bills Wong
Copyright© 1998 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group. All rights reserved. mOthEr
rOck magazine is published six times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to
climb somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA, 92375-1151
USA. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGrouD@aol.com.
Subscriptions: For subscription information, writeorder for $10 to mOthEr rOck, PO
Box 7951, Redlands, CA 92375-1151, or E-mail mOthErrOck@aol.com .
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll consider it. We're a no budget
operation, so send a SASE if you need your materials back. Photo submissions also
welcome. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you have not yet figured that out,
you're an idiot and you should probably stop climbing now before you hurt yourself
and others. And if you think you can bet your life or safety on anything you read in
mOthEr rOck, think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any of the
information contained in these pages, and cannot be held responsible in any way for
any of your actions, acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's the way
it should be. Take responsibility for your own actions. You're a climber after all.
• Frustration Creek: Topos for this new sport climbing area in the
San Bernardino Mountains.
• Mill Wash: Topos for the recently-developed sandstone
boulders near Forest Falls.
...plus there's a lot more on the "maybe" list. And as always,
we're completely open to ideas. Send us your articles, your
pictures, your story ideas, or whatever you have.
If you have Internet access and have not already experienced
mOthEr rOck Mail, you should subscribe. Simply send us an E-
mail (motherrock@aol.com) and you'll be added to the list. We try
to send out local updates a couple times a month. The information
in mOthEr rOck Mail is typically brief, and often timely—closures,
local events like slide shows, new routes, etc. Distributing this
information free of charge by E-mail frees up more space in the
printed magazine for longer, more in-depth articles, topos and mini-
guides, etc. Check out the archive of all past E-mails on the
mOthEr rOck Web site at members.aol.com/motherrock.
Enjoy the issue, and we'll see you again in a month or two. Until
then, climb hard, climb safe, but most of all, have fun!
—Matt Artz, editor
On the Cover.
25 feet off the deck, Wills Young storms the castle on "Gardez
1'eau," V5, on The Keep Boulder, Enlightenment Ridge (Route
#114 in the enclosed mini-guide). Photo by Reese Martin.
Pagel March/April 1998
Insert

Ridge
Guide
By Reese Martin
|
The rumors spread.
"Ten times more rock than Stoney
Point,"
"Hundreds, if not thousands of
problems still to do."
pl "Some of the best bouldering north
1 of LA."
Most of us discount hype, but for
once it's true. Pine Mountain
has great stone, an amazing
mountain top location and low-
key camping. One visit, and
you'll be spreading rumors too.
Located in and around the
Pine Mountain & Reyes Peak
Campgrounds at an elevation of
7,000 feet in the Los Padres
National Forest, Pine Mountain
is an island in the sky of open
forest and kletter gardens along
a broad summit ridge. Climbing
here amoungst the fragrant
Jeffery pines and mixed-conifers
is a cool summer alternative to
Photo: Angela Smith climbs Desti-
nation, VO, Destination Boulder.
Cover: Juan Carlo mantels on King
of Spain, V3, near the Keep Boul-
der. Photos by Angela Smith.
the hot low-lands nearby. The thick
layer of pine needles on the ground
make for soft landings The rock is
sandstone, similar to Stoney Point and
Santa Barbara, but with much more
patina and varnished skin to the
boulders, expect good edges, crimpers
and a slopey finishes. There is a
massive amount of stone here, so skip
the occasional areas of bad rock. The
developed bouldering is close to the
road, good news to folks staggering
under monster crash pads. Of particu-
lar interest to those with calm nerves
are the numerous "high-ball" prob-
lems, such as the ultra-classic
"Rapunzel", V1R arete; "Quiet Soul",
VSR; "Welcome to the Real World",
V2R; and the mind-expanding pebble
face: "Enlightenment", VSR. Wills Young, Wall ofNietschean
Climbers have visited Pine Moun- Rhetoric, V7+, at Pine Mountain.
tain since the early 60's, but most had
dismissed the area as just a bunch of lumpy boulders, and had gone on look-
ing for "real" climbs. Yvon Chouinard and buddies were the first known
climbers here. During the 70's and 80's the area was sporadically visited by
locals such as Mike "Gramicci" Graham and a few Patagonia employees, but
the atmosphere was casual. No one kept track of what was being climbed. It
wasn't until the last few years when Russel Erickson, Steve Edwards, Wills
Young , Reese Martin, Craig Wilson, Juan Carlo, and other nearby locals began
to make regular visits to Pine Mountain that many of the new problems were
cleaned & solved.
Pine Mountain is far from climbed out. Opportunities abound. There are
acres of rock hiding in the woods. For those with an eye for new problems,
and a willingness to explore, there are stacks of plums waiting to be plucked.
This is a three season area. The Forest Service locks the gate to the Pine
Mountain road at Highway 33 for the winter due to the occasional snow
storms. In the past few years the gate has been locked from mid-November
through mid-March. When the gate is locked, you can mountain bike up the
road from the highway.
Recently, the heavy El Nino rains have caused mudslides and extensive
road damage to Highway 33 and the Pine Mountain road. It may be a while
till the roads are cleaned up. Call the Los Padres National Forest, Ojai Ranger
Station at (805) 646-4348 for current road information.

Russel Erickson, Skies of the Blessed, V6, at Pine Mountain.
Wills Young, Heaven On Top, V3R,
at Pine Mountain.
Getting There
From Ventura, exit
Highway 101 and
take Highway 33,
inland to the town of
Ojai. Then, follow
Highway 33 north-
east into the Los
Padres National
Forest to Pine Moun-
tain Pass. At the
pass, turn east onto
Pine Mountain road,
it's the paved and
gated road on the
right, follow it up
the mountain six
miles to the Pine
Mountain & Reyes
Access, Guides, etc. Peak campgrounds.
There are currently no access problems at You'll start seeing
Pine Mountain. The U.S.F.S. "Adventure the boulders near
Pass" is required to park. Be sure to park the first campsite.
off the main road. The greatest concen-
The only guidebook available for Pine tration of boulders is
Mountain is Steve Edward's self-pub- located near the
lished Santa Barbara Bouldering (June second to the last
1997; $8.95). About 100 problems at Pine campsite in the
Mountain are covered. An excellent Reyes Peak camp-
overview to the area by Wills Young is ground, about 200
available in CLIMBING Magazine, #175 yards before the end
(April/May 1998). of the pavement.
Be sure to bring brushes to help clean
the most recent problems. And to explore Camping
new problems. The Pine Mountain and Reyes Peak campgrounds are low-key, yet with the
Pine Mountain is a bouldering area. amazing 360 degree views, a dramatic place to camp. All sites are within easy
Leave the drill at home. The boulder walking distance of most of the bouldering. Some of the campsites have
problems at Pine Mountain can easily be boulder problems within steps of the car. The campgrounds are equipped
toproped with a few nuts, friends, and a with picnic tables, grills, fireplaces and pit toilets. Other than having to
40' leash rope to extend the anchors. display an "Adventure Pass", the camping is free. You will need to bring
water, there is none in the campground. There is plenty of firewood available
nearby.
 Overview Map#l
Pine Mountain — "Enlightenment Ridge"
The boulder problems in this micro-guide are all located near the last campsite
in the Reyes Peak Campground, about 50 yards before the pavement ends on
the Pine Mountain road. This area is "Enlightenment Ridge" and offers over a
100 developed problems within a two minute walk. There is easily potential
for another couple of hundred more problems nearby. The bouldering at
Enlightenment Ridge is perfect for mOthEr rOck climbers, featuring moderate
face problems in the VO- to V3 range. Crimping, delicate faces, and mantels
are the major themes. Beginners and the pusillanimous: there are many easier
problems scattered throughout the area not shown on the topo maps. For
those of you with ankle biters, the terrain, which is flat to gently sloping, is
"baby-friendly."
Many of the problems listed here are previously unpublished. Rather than
try to cover all of Pine Mountain, this micro-guide complements the coverage
of Pine Mountain in Santa Barbara Bouldering.

Ratings
The "Vermin" V
system is used. A
"star" system is used
to indicate the quality © 1998 Reese
problems. SS means a The She Boulder End O' Pavo
sit start. The gradings 1. Liposuction Dents, VI. Up the scoops. 8. VI. Short face to crack.
2. Labia, VI. SS from the obvious lips. * 9. 5.9. Bulge.
are subjective at best. 3. Tasty Torso, VI. Edges. 10. Yikers!, 20' roof crack in slot. Unclimbec
Many of the problems 4. Alopecia Areteta, V3. Blunt arete. 11. Crack start to face. Project.
are new and have only 5. VO. Low angle face. 12. VO. Pulltohueco.
been climbed a few 6. VO. SS to good edges. *
times, so consensus 7. VI . SS over bulge in arete.
may be a wee bit off. Road Shelf
Have fun, crank hard, 13. Gimme Five, V4. Hang slope then mantle.
and be careful out 14. Butt Up, VI. SS mantle.
15. Chumash Challenge, V2. SS mantle, hard to keep from dragging feet.
there. 16. V?. Grainy face in scoop with no top out - yet.
17. VO-. Easy face.
Camp Rock
52. Two Scoops, VO. Delicate.
53. Won't Bum, V2-. Balancey, scoops off.
53a. Toast the Lizard, VO. Scoop to mantle on ramp, L arete off.
Blunt arete is a project.
115. SeeYa, V2/V3. Campus moves. SS.
© 1998 Reese Martin 116. V4. SS, L to R, long reaches.
 The Guardpost
Map #2 25. The Grand Canyon, VI. Face to balancy hi-step. *** Hard for short people.
26. Quest for the Chalice, VO. Layback & stem for the "Chalice". **
27. VO-. Easy arete.
28. 5.8. SS, Sandy lip to a long reach.
29. Back Way, VI. Bald, gritty arete.
The Raspberry Rock
30. Red Rock, 5.8. Featured face, finish L. Use for descent.
31. VI. SS Scoop to heucos. *
32. Jump Start, V2. Arete, start R. Dirty.
33. VI. Crack, R to arete finish. Dirty.
34. Raspberry Ripple, VO. Start off small boulder, dirty edges.
35. Reese-que, VI. SS L. of small boulder, arete to crack finish. *
36. VO. Plated face.
37. Trad Red, VI. Face to seam, R to finish.
38. Reese-rection, V2. Lined face, R of arete. **
39. V2/V4??. SS Lined face, loose hold. Project.
The Saddle
40. Back in the Saddle, V3. SS out of cave, long blind reach to big jug. **
41. Lizard Lips, VI. Hang start to mantle. SS V3?
42. I Knew I Could, V3. SS from hueco on arete, traverse R to large hueco. **
43. VI Face to hueco high step. *
44. Stem Gem (Not!), V3. SS.
Losing My Marbles
45. Losing My Marbles, VI. SS from cobbly ledge, long reaches..
46. V3 SS as for 45., Long reach, L to finish.
47. V5? OH face to mantel. Hard.
48. VOR. SS crack finish R. Be careful of branch.
49. Easy slab.
Jaunte
54. V5/V6. OH, L on seam top out on Jaunte. SS??
55. Jaunte, V3. Huecos to off balance throw for top. ** SS possible.
56. V4. OH pulls on huecos.
57. V?. OH pulls on huecos. Project?
The Keep
110. Clawing at the Walls, V6. Huecos to tiny crimps to mantel. *
111. Siege Tactics, VIR. R side of arete, just enough good crimps. **
© 1998 Reese Martin 112. We Already Have One, V3. Start on face, move R to arete.
113. Rapunzel, V1R. Classic arete. Crux up high! *** A.K.A. "The Keep"
114. Gardez 1'eau, V5. Hard start, still needs more cleaning. Descend large tree.
16. V?. Rotten face in scoop with no top out - yet.
17. VO-. Easy face. 117. Enlightenment, VSR. High, improbable looking pebbled face. **

18. VO-. Crack, then R to top out.

19. High Treason, VI. Face to L of crack. ** R finish is VI-
20. Softly, Softly, V6. Bald face to hi-stt-p. ***
21. VI. R of blunt arete.
22. VI. Blunt arete, pebbles & smear.
23. V3. L of arete, hi-step on suspect pebble.
24. The Crystal Groove V4. Up scoops, L to finish. ***
 Map #3 Map #4

\cn ice
ff^l

© 1998 Reese Martin

© 1998 Reese Martin

Trinity Boulders
58. 5.6, easy slab.
59. Trinity, VO. Edges on face. **
60. VO. SS finger to hand crack.
61. Non-Social Stressor, V2. SS arete, crack and boulder off.
Rob Zeemer Memorial Boulder 62. Destination, VO. Bear hug arete. **
50. Rob Zeemer Memorial Boulder Problem, VI Plates & pebbles. * 63. Sitting Stars, VI. SS slopes to face, stay just R of arete. *
51. VI. Edges to pinch in scoop.
Campus Boulder
Solitude Standing 64. V3. Arete over small tree, finish on face R.
103. 5.8. Dirty face. f>5. Campus Problem, V4, hang start slopes to large bowl, mantel bowl. Area Classic.
104. VO. Mid face, up to good edges. 66. Campus Direct, V6. SS, skip bowl. ***
105. Solitude Standing, V2. SS thin face, gets easier up high. 67. Squeeze One, VI. Hang start from face holds over small boulder.
106. Beeu-t-ful, VO. Pebbles to good holds. 68. Pure Pain, V4. Climb seam.
107. VO. SS patina to good holds. 69. The Piano, V3. Layback crack L to turn roof. **
108. Red Rock, V3. SS flat edge, up R. » 70. V3. Mantel.
109. Red Rock Right, V4. Slopers on bulge. ** 71. V3. Mantel.
Meditation Boulder 99. VI. SS off slope to pockets.
72. VO. 100. V? Pebbly face. Project?
73. VI. SS, to thin face. 101. V? Pebbly face. Project?
74. Easy arete. 102. V? Cave start. Project?
75. VI. Hang start, mantel.

L
Enlightenment — The surrounding area has many fun, easy faces.
76. Quiet Soul, V2R. Red cracked face to huecos on top. **
77. Welcome to the Real World, V2R. Arete. Will be brilliant when clean. **
78. Supraliminal, VO, Rounded face holds L of arete. *
79. Clueless, 5.6. Incut face holds. **
80. Over the Moon, 5.8. sub-vertical face, use the large "moon" hold. **
81. 5.8. SS,pull.
82. Semi-Conscious, VI. SS long reach, avoidable loose holds.
83. No Consciousness, 5.7. Lichened arete.
84. Gooze Bumps, 5.7. Chickenheads! *
85. 5.7. Dirty arete.
86. V?. Hueco mantel. Project?
87. SS problem. Unnamed, Unclimbed. V3/V4?

Map #5

Peerless Plated Boulder © 1998 Reese Martin

88. Reese's Arete,VO. Incut face moves. **
89. Peerless Plates, 5.7. Perfect incuts. ***
90. Buddaha House, VI. SS friction to plates. *
91. Nirvanic Incuts, VO. SS Undercling to underclings, R up face holds. *
92. Karma Debt, VI. SS Awkward pulls to good incuts.
93. Always in Disguise, VI. SS Good sidepulls to lichened arete. **
94. Contrived, VI. SS
95. Beginners Slab, 5.3. 40' slab with a big tree at top to TR from.
Chorro Loaf.
96. The Chorro Grande Loaf, V2. SS tricky sloper start, R wall off. awkward. *
97. Half-a-Loaf, VO- SS up comer.
98. Pinch-a-Loaf, VO. SS Horizontal crack to start.
 Confessions of a Lard-Ass Climber
Part One—The Formative Years
By Max Armpet
There I was. Run out four feet above my last bomber pro,
about to clip into what appeared to be a brand new 3/4 inch
bolt sunk deeply in solid rock, with epoxy liberally dripping
out of the sides for good measure. I've never felt so helpless in
my entire life.
What's the problem, you ask? Eight feet is not usually
considered runout, and could I have asked for a better bolt to
clip?
Well, you just don't understand. See, I'm a little different.
My name is Max Armpet, and I'm a lard-ass climber.
My story is one of hardship, trauma, indulgence,
liposuction, and lost opportunity. Where do I begin?
I guess it all started when I was born. My parents were
quite hefty, and in the Armpet clan, I had large trousers to fill.
And fill them I did. I was born with a silver spoon in my
mouth, literally. By Elementary School, they called me
"Sumo." In Junior High, I had to stop wearing my favorite
green (or "jade") colored T-shirt when the principal addressed
me in a school assembly as "Buddah."
Max Armpet: Profile of a lard-ass climber.
High School was no picnic, as I became the "butt" of the
jokes of the rock climbing contingent; I was always invited on
their outings, as pack mule and belay slave, only to find out
later that it was all an inside joke, as the guidebook to the local
toprope area stated "a large friend is useful for setting a TR."
That one still makes my gut jiggle, even if it is at my expense.
Shorty after graduation, I quickly dropped out of medical
school when my academic advisor suggested for Christmas I
ask my parents for a stomach stapling.
This was an important time in my life. At a loss for direc-
tion, I took stock of my situation. I had no job prospects, other
than the fry machine at Mikey D's. Looking back, the closest
thing I had had to "friends" in High School were those guys
who used me for a laugh while climbing. It wasn't much to go
on, but I had no life, so I decided to dedicate my life to under-
achieving as a full-time fat ass climbing bum.
The lifestyle suited me perfectly. My home became my
Volkswagen Bus, modified to fit my bulky stature behind the
mOthEr rOck magazine Page 2
Me with my doggie, "Crashpad." He died young.
steering wheel. It didn't leave much of a living area, but I didn't
need much. To save room, I ditched the stove and lived off my
own version of "power bars" (actually any candy bar that's high
in calories and low in nutritional value). Since the water at some
of these places is often unpredictable, and since diarhea is not an
option when you have a swine's rear end and you don't shower
for six months at a time, I drank nothing but piss-ant beer. This
beverage served triple duty as it also helped me maintain my
girlish figure, and when used liberally helped me forget my
significant inadequacies as both a climber and a human being.
Not wishing to be the butt of any more "large friend" jokes,
and not being able to find a harness of sufficient diameter to span
my ever-expanding girth, I shunned all forms of roped climbing
and started bouldering.
When bouldering low-ball problems and when lucky enough
to find a partner for a few minutes before driving them away
with my powerful personal odor and even more offensive
personality, I learned to use the "power spot" in ever more
creative ways. As my belly increased in size seemingly exponen-
tially, my ability to attract power spotters with enough heft to
support my manliness went the way of lycra. I found that with a
solid redwood 4 by 4 wedged between my ass cheeks, there was
almost no 5.5 boulder problem I couldn't scale without a few
solid days of work. With this third appendage sticking out like a
mechanical tail, at Hueco they called me "Tripod." Well, some of
them did. Most of them just said, "Hey, who's that fat dude with
the 4 by 4 shoved up his ass?" No matter, though; I was making a
name for myself at some of the finest bouldering areas in the
Southwest, by doing numerous FFAs (First Fat Acents).
Bouldering purists like John Sherman won't appreciate my use of
power spotting, but then what would Sherman know, that skinny
little show off bastard. I hear John Gill did all his supposed first
ascents years before he did anyway. All of the really hard ones at
least.
Coming Soon: Part Two—My First "Epic"
March/April 1998

Holistic Healing
and the Value of Malt Beverages
A Qitasi-Beer Review by Matt Artz
Things were going well. Pushing my personal limits, I set
some pretty high goals for myself for 1998. January turned
out to be a stellar month. I exceeded all of my expectations for
the month, and some for the entire year! Six or seven days
bouldering out at Josh, and I was feeling invincible.
And we all know what happens when you're feeling
invincible. The superhuman power wears off. If you're lucky,
the mind is strong enough to still believe you're invincible;
strong enough to mask over the shortcomings of the weak-
ened body. If you're unlucky, you get injured.
Call me unlucky. Maybe Popeye forgot to eat his spinach
that day? No, Matt just did something stupid. Climbing on
plastic, I felt stronger than ever before. Coming out of a sit-
down start on an overhanging wall, up high to a crimper and
a jug, bringing the feet up so high I thought I'd flip over
backwards and land on my head, I was in total control. The
next move was a really long reach up over the lip, to a jug.
Not wanting to dyno and risk flipping over backwards, I tried
to do it statically. No matter how I twisted and contorted, I
was about an inch too short to get a good tip placement on the
jug. But on the face of the jug was a one-finger pocket (or
maybe it was just the bolt hole...). Sticking my left middle
finger about half an inch in this pocket, I shifted my weight so
it was directly under the hold, then attempted the one-finger
pull-up. The tendon didn't pop outright, but it let me know
that what I had done was a tragic mistake.
I can't believe I potentially blew out my climbing career on
PLASTIC!
I did a lot of reading, and the injury was self diagnosed as a
tear of the A2 pulley. Surgery is sometimes suggested, but is
often counter-productive. The best thing you can do is also
the hardest for a climber: just give it a lot of rest.
Over the next two months, I whinned like a little baby--
enough so that lots of friends came out of the woodwork to
offer advice. Here's a summary of what I learned.
southern California's climbing magazine
PO Box 7951
Redlands,CA 92375-1151 USA
• There's the glucosamine, from 500 to 2,000 rng per day. It's an
amino acid which bonds to water, that the body uses to lubricate
the joints-a common dietary supplement taken by arthritis
sufferers. After a month, I didn't see any real change, but it may
take up to two to three months. The most common side effect is
an increased risk of diabetes, which runs in my family, so I'm not
too excited about the long-term prospects of using this treatment.
But I'll give it a few months. Acting on Reese Martin's tip, I
found the best deal to be $9.99 for 100 glucosamine capsules (500
mg) at Trader Joe's.
• There's the anti-inflamatories. Advil is my personal favorite.
After five weeks, I gave these up, as I was taking them in large
quantities and the swelling persisted.
• There's the physical therapy option. Acting on tips from a few
people, I devised my own treatment plan that seems to be
helping some. Massage the damaged area, being careful to
massage against, not with the grain of the tendon; in other words,
massage back and forth, from side to side, not along the length of
the finger.. Work up to applying enough pressure that it's moder-
ately painful—it should hurt, but not make you cry like a sissy.
Follow immediately with ice to reduce the inflamation. I can
even do this at my desk at work, grasping an ice cold can of Diet
Coke in my hand afterwards.
• Then there's my favorite treatment of all: ice cold, high-quality,
microbrewed beverages. Think of the positives: 12 oz. and 22 oz.
curls keep the forearms in good shape, but the large diameter
simulates a large jug (one of the reasons I prefer 22 oz. bottles).
Speaking of beer, I found another great one: Poleeko Gold
Pale Ale. (I had to sneak the beer review in here somewhere). A
product of the Anderson Valley Brewing Company in Boonville,
which is in Mendocino County, it's light, refreshing, blah blah
blah. I don't want this to turn into some yuppie wine review ("a
crisp performer with a smoothe yet complex finish"—what the
hell is that all about anyway?). It's just a good beer, damn it. It's
a healthy beverage, good for a snack in the 12 oz. container, or a
complete meal and a good forearm pump in the 22 oz. size. And
it's not one of those sickening, camel-urine-labeled-as-beer,
canned simul-brews like that sorry-ass Max Armpet would drink.
No sir, this is a real beer for real climbers.
With a few more weeks of physical/brew therapy, I hope to be
back on the rocks soon. See you there!
(3 s, imuo//;u;>
 there, we mapped almost the entire place, and identified more than 150
potential problems. The boulders are similar to Snow Valley, the
Letter from the Editor approach is miniscule, and...that's all we'll say. Look for a mini-guide to
the area soon, hopefully in the next issue or two of mOthEr rOck.
So here it is, Issue #12. I bet you're more than a little bit surprised And as if that wasn't enough, yet another bouldering area in the
to see it so quickly on the heels of Issue #11, but then Issue #11 was mountains around So Cal has been found. This area is a little limited, but
so late... is definately worth checking out, with super featured granite boulders
mOthEr rOck is back on track, and the next several issues are in with great landings. Many good steep moderate jug hauls (yeah!)—see
development. So with a little luck, the scheduling epic of Issue #11 the photo below, left. More information will be published in a future
will never happen again. issue of mOthEr rOck magazine.
Off to a late start because of record snowfall in the San Bernar- Personally, things are back on track for me, too. After nearly 3 1/2
dino Mountains, preparations for the 1998 Snow Valley Boulderfest months off due to a tendon injury, I started back slowly in mid-May, and
and Trash Clean-up are now well underway. Mark your calendars am now climbing several days a week on real rock. I'm doing more
for Saturday, October 3rd, 1998, and for more information be sure to open-handed stuff and trying to avoid the crimpy stuff, and so far the
check out the Rim of the World Climbing Club's Web site at tendon is holding up just fine. Rob Stauder has threatened to teach me
www.geocities.com/~rowcc. Posters and entry forms will be crack climbing, and I may just take him up on the offer.
distributed to local gyms and shops soon, and entry forms will also Until Issue #13, climb safe, climb hard, and most of all, HAVE A
be available on-line from the ROWCC Web site. The format for the BLAST!
1998 Boulderfest will be very similar to last year, with a few minor -Matt Artz, editor
changes to keep competitors guessing. The only hint we can really
give you is this: train for endurance!
Perhaps the biggest "problem" at the Boulderfest last year was
that many participants spent the whole day in the East area of Snow
Valley, leading to congested conditions there, while almost nobody
out hern C a l i f o r n i a ' s
visited such classic yet "backwater" areas as the South (Vampire)
Publisher Associate Editors
The AMCC Group Aaron Rough, Rob Stauder
Editor Assistant Editor
Matt Artz Ruth Artz
mOthEr rOck Contributors
Louie Anderson • Max Armpet • Jason Dallas • Reed Bartlett
Diane Chakmak • Amos Clifford • Heather Dolph • Ted Doughty Jr.
Daniel Eubank • Daniel Garcia • Bob Goff • Nancy Hampton
Christian Harder • Steve Harris • Amy Lobsinger • Bill Loux • Fritz Lowrey
James March • Reese Martin • Travis McElvany • Matt McGunigle
Chris Miller • Darell Palmer • Steve Parker • Patrick Paul • Matt Polk
Matt Pollard • Ed Schmahl • Jann Senior • Rob Stauder • Brandon Thau
Randy Vogel • Todd Vogel • Geoff Wade • Bruce Wiley • Bills Wong

Copyright© 1998 mOthEr rOck/The AMCC Group. All rights reserved. mOthEr
rOck magazine is published six times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to
climb somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA, 92375-1151
USA. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGroup@aol.com.

Aaron Rough at yet another new So Cal bouldering area, as yet Subscriptions: For subscription information, write to mOthEr rOck, PO Box 7951,
unnamed. Stay tuned to mOthEr rOck/or details. Redlands, CA 92375-1151, or E-mail mOthErrOck@aol.com.

and Call of the West. As a special treat to mOthEr rOck subscrib-
ers, we've included a topo and information about Call of the West.
If you didn't make it to the Boudlerfest last year, this will give you
an introduction to Snow Valley, and get you in the vicinity of the
rest of the 300+ problems up there.
Bouldering all over So Cal continues at a breakneck pace. It was
never intended that mOthEr rOck become a bouldering magazine,
but sometimes it seems like that's what it is, probably because that's
where most of the action is right now in So Cal.
Doing our share for the bouldering craze, Enrique Yaptenco and
I have been busy developing a new area in the San Bernardino
Mountains. Tired of all the hype about the Happy Boulders, the Sad
Boudlers, the Lonely Boudlers, and now the Sexually Disfunctional
Boulders? Then try our new place—the Indifferent Boulders. We
first thought that the Indifferents would be a minor area, holding SO-
SO problems when maxed out. But on our first day of climbing
Editorial Submissions: Write it, send it to us, we'll consider it. We're a no budget
operation, so send a SASE if you need your materials back. Photo submissions also
welcome. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you have not yet figured that out,
you're an idiot and you should probably stop climbing now before you hurt yourself
and others. And if you think you can bet your life or safety on anything you read in
mOthEr rOck, think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any of the
information contained in these pages, and cannot be held responsible in any way for
any of your actions, acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's the way
it should be. Take responsibility for your own actions. You're a climber after all.
On the Cover
Enrique Yaptenco on the first ascent of "Oh, Shit," Midget Boulder, Snow
Valley. After completing this hard new sit-down problem, guess what
Enrique found on his back and on my crashpad? Hint: it smelled funny...
Photo by Matt Artz.

mOthEr rOck magazine Page 1 May/June 1998

 Vermin Speaks
The mOthEr rOck Beer Interview
By Matt Artz
When I think of John Sherman, I think of several things: hard
core bouldering, a sarcastic and dark sense of humor, and even
darker beer. Since his sarcastic humor is well known through
his own prolific writings, and he's done way too many inter-
views about climbing, I decided to tap the unknown so to
speak and ask the probing questions no other interviewer has
had the balls to ask, such as: what kind of beer does Vermin
drink?
mOthEr rOck: When did you start climbing, and were you already
drinking beer at the time?
Vermin: 1975. I was 15 and had been drinking beer since 1972-
73 when I spent a year in Switzerland. (This doesn't count the
time I was around 10 years old at my cousin's wedding,
washing down allergy pills with lots of champagne punch.
That was the first good buzz I remember. The last good buzz
was... I can't remember.)
I was pretty buzzed when I did my first rappel. Back in those
days a quart of Miller on an empty stomach did the trick, but
my standards soon raised. My friend Craig—we called him
Keg-shoved me in the chest to get me to lean back as I went
over the edge for the first time. It worked. Anyway, climbing
was a good sport for a budding lush-I met lots of partners
who were old enough to buy me beer. When I finally turned
21,1 realized that climbing was pretty cool in its own right, so I
kept doing it.
mOthEr: I've heard you 've climbed in France. Is the beer any good
there?
Vermin: What lying sack of shit told you that? Any fool
knows the French can't brew beer. Hence, I have never
climbed in France. Fisher Amber imparts a quick buzz, but I
think it's more from the formaldehyde than the alcohol. Either
way, it's a bad hangover. I can only recommend it if you're
collecting swingtop bottles for home brewing.
mOthEr: What's the best boulder problem you 've ever done that was
named after a beer?
Vermin: The best beer climbs are actually ice climbs, not
boulder problems. These are of course the famous "beer
climbs" near Field in Canada. "Guinness Gully," "Carlsberg
Column," "Pilsner Pillar," and "Super Bock." All are superb.
"40 oz. King" in the Gymnasium at Hueco is probably the best
boulder problem named after the worst beer, though, of the
ethnic malt liquors, I must say King Cobra is my favorite. I
don't believe "King Cobra" (behind Camp 4 in Yosemite) was
named after the beer, and besides, I haven't done that one.
"The Tall Cool Red One" (also at Hueco) is one of the finest
problems I've ever done. It's not actually named after a beer,
but after the red-headed bikini model in a Killian's poster. An
intersting undercling move down low, followed by a wild
mOthEr rOck magazine Page 2
-
lunge for a sloping jug two-thirds of the way up, and topped
out with beautiful face moves. Nothing could be finer.
mOthEr: What's the closest brewpub to Hueco?
Vermin: I haven't been to Hueco in almost two years. At that
time Jaxon's at Viscount and Airway had just turned into an
insta-brewpub. Unfortunately, most popular brewpubs sell
their beer so quickly that it doesn't have time to mature. It
tastes green, but faux beer snobs buy it anyway and it's all
gone before it can be its best. There simply isn't enough
storage capacity at the average brewpub to avert this.
mOthEr: If you were a beer, would you be a red, a porter, a pilsner,
or something else?
Vermin: I can't admit to being any of the beers I truly admire.
Of course we all want to be something we aren't. During the
glory days at Hueco I would have been a mass-marketed
American malt liquor—strong as shit, available only as tall
boys, and full of poor taste. Lately, I resemble a stout, and
since my fucked-up surgery has left me crippled, I'm so weak
I'd have to be an Eddie McStiff 3.2 stout, looks like the real
thing until... I shudder to think of the taste. Someday I may
realize my high-altitude ambitions and become a porter.
mOthEr: What's better for building bouldering strength—fingertip
pull-ups or 12 oz. curls?
Vermin: I don't know. I never tried fingertip pull-ups.
mOthEr: Can you reccommend a good beer for our loyal readers?
Vermin: You owe it to yourself to go down to the liquor store
and get a bottle of La Fin Du Monde. This is French Canadian
beer out of Quebec. The fine effervescence of a champagne
coupled with the light fruitiness of a wheat beer and the
punch of George Foreman. This could be the best beer ever
brewed. Moreover, taken in proper doses it can cause visions.
I'd tell you more, but I'm still waiting for the statute of
limitations to expire. Lest you think I'm a trendy beer snob, I
was drinking La Fin Du Monde long before it won the plati-
num medal at the world beer championships. Why it took the
judges so long to clue in, I don't know. While you're at the
store, pick up some Old Rasputin Stout as well.
mOthEr: What advice would you give a young climber who is
redpointing S.llc and toying with alcoholism?
Vermin: Stick to Shirley Temples. Redpointing is for sissies.
Real climbers start from the ground up every time placing
their own gear. None of that hangdogging crap.
mOthEr: Tell me about your most intense beer-related epic.
Vermin: Must be when I did The Shield with E. We had a
great plan to celebrate my birthday on Mammoth Terraces.
Mucho beer was bought and we had people lined up to jug
Continued on page 6
May/June 1998
 Climbing to Nirvana!
Finding the Flow in your Climbing
by Bill Loux
This is it! You've spent the last six months dreaming about this
road trip. Now you've finally become a real climber. After
weeks of research, you find the perfect 5.12 climb to prove that
you're worthy of the title, "advanced" climber. The name of
the route is "Crack Daddy Bad-Ass," and that's exactly what
you plan on being after you hike this climb. The years of
training; the grueling, skin ripping, muscle tearing workouts;
the months of barely life sustaining diets; they all come down
to this one moment. This is the last day of your trip, and
you've already failed once on the climb. No more screwin'
around, this is it, do or die! After one last look at the climb,
you say a little prayer to the rock gods, and yell "Climbing!"
The climb starts off well, and before you know it you're
nearly half-way up the wall. You're climbing like you've never
climbed before. Your moves are quick and decisive, yet very
smooth and fluid. You are climbing with an effortless ease that
gives you intense pleasure as you lose yourself in the climb.
Three-quarters of the way up you reach the crux move, a long
crossover from a slopy pincher that requires precise footwork
and balance. You know because that's where you blew it last
time. You pause for a moment to plan your attack and then
you go for it. You start giving yourself verbal cues. "
Pinch hard with the left.
Don't forget the drop knee.
Pull in closer to the rock.
A flicker of doubt crosses your mind, and you tell yourself,
"Just hang on and try harder!" As you reach for the crossover,
your left foot blows and you pop off the rock. You failed! You
can't believe that after all that preparation, you still can't climb
5.12! You feel completely disgusted with yourself and know
that you will never be a "Crack Daddy Bad-Ass." You even
begin to wonder why you ever started climbing in the first
place.
I'm sure that we all have stories just like this. Sometimes it
seems like the harder you try, the more you fail. What can you
do about it? The solution may be not to try at all!
That's right, stop trying so damn hard! It may be that your
desire to succeed is what is really holding you back. In Zen
Buddhist terms, this is known as the Cycle of Desire.
After your first exposure to rock climbing, you probably felt
as if your life had changed. Even though you only did a
simple beginner's climb, it opened up a whole new conscious-
ness and path to self knowledge. However, after time you lose
that feeling and say to yourself, "If I could just climb at that
level, then I will feel good." This begins a dangerous cycle.
You begin intense training for your goal, and after some time,
one of two things will happen. The first possible outcome is
that you fail. After months or even years of training, you fail
to achieve a goal that you set. It is a devastating blow to your
ego, and you feel as if you will never increase your climbing
ability. The second possible outcome is that you reach your
goal. Now you are able to climb at a certain level, but you still
mOthEr rOck magazine PageS
don't have that special feeling that you had when you first
began climbing. You were able to reach your goal, but you
don't FEEL any better about it, so you decide that you must try
to go to the next level. Both of these scenarios result in more
intense training, ultimately leading to over-training, injury,
and depression.
Don't get me wrong. I'm all for setting goals, but don't let
yourself confuse the path with the destination. The goal of
rock climbing is the climbing itself. After you finish a climb,
you are happy to have completed it, but you really wish it
would go on forever. The true test of climbing isn't conquer-
ing anything other than yourself. Your goal shouldn't be to
bag another peak, but to get in the zone, where you float up
the mountain without any conscious thought as to how you
are doing it.
Taoist call this Wu Wei, or non-action. The fundamental
principle is to let go and try not to consciously control your
actions, but just let them happen naturally. "Use the Force,
Luke!" The idea is to blend with the energy around you, not to
impose your energy on the environment. In the Western world
we call this getting in "The Zone." This is when you are riding
the emotional high that comes from becoming one with the
rock. Time slows down, or seems to stop. Your body reacts
naturally, seemingly without any conscious thought on your
part. You enter into a trance-like state of concentration, where
all distractions and all of your worries fade away. It's really a
great feeling. Taoist believe, that doing something perfectly
means you must not think about your actions. You must
simply let them act. Thoughts create imperfections in your
action and hamper your ability to merge with and actually
become the action.
Our Western minds are very good at abstract logical thought.
We analyze, consider, evaluate all the relevant details, then,
after a step-by-step logical process, we finally come to a
conclusion and then act upon our decision. Our minds
consider,
Is that hold going to be good?
Should I try that foot position?
Is there enough friction there?
Am I going to fall?
Did I bring enough water?
This is a very long and cumbersome process. On the wall,
you simply don't have time for such distracting thoughts. You
simply have to react to the situation at hand and CLIMB! This
is where the Eastern mind has an advantage. The Eastern
mind takes a more relational, higher-level thought process that
brings the mind up and away from all of this extraneous data
and allows the spirit to meld with the action. When asked
what he thought of while he was hitting, Yogi Berra simply
replied, "How can you think and hit at the same time?" This
expresses the true wisdom of Wu Wei.
May/June 1998
Insert

Call of the West
Bouldering Guide
By Matt Artz
If you were foolish enough to miss the 1997 Snow Valley Boulderfest, and can't wait
till October 3rd (because we know you'll come for sure this year!), here's a special
treat. "The Call of the West" is one of ten areas featured in the 1997 Boulderfest, and
is home to a bunch of moderate problems, along with a few hard classics. Most
people at the contest didn't get out to Call of the West, because it's the furthest area
from the Little Green Valley parking area where the contest began. Hopefully publi-
cation of this topo will change that, because it's a real nice little area.
The majority of the problems were put up by myself and Rob Stauder, with help
from Brad Singer and a couple of other folks. Chas Wilson and James March each
added a couple of tespieces. For the story of how Call of the West was discovered,
read the "Jet City Rocket Red" Beer Review in Issue #9 of mOthEr rOck magazine.
So how can you find this place? Ha ha, we'll leave it purposefully a little vague. On
Highway 18, west of the Snow Valley Ski Resort, look for the MARTA bus stop on the
north side of the road. Further west of the MARTA stop, there's a turnout on the
south side of the road. Park here. CAREFULLY cross the road. The Call of the West
area is a hundred yards or so north of the road. If you do any new problems at Call of
the West, be sure to E-mail the details to snowvalley@iname.com, so they can be
included in the 1998 Boulderfest guidebook.
The Drvwall Boulder
/.
N
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly. V5 *** Beta: Sit-down start way back in small cave,
up through wide shallow crack and over the top.
Happy Planet. V5 Beta: Starts on large incut right of "The Good, The Bad, and the
Ugly." Holds on problem #225 are off. Large hold directly above is off. Move up and
right.
3. The Drywall Incident, A.K. A. "It's Not Hard, It's Just My Ankle." V2 ** Beta: Undercut
start with hands matched on lowest incut. Move up incuts and top out.
The Big Heat Formation
4. Voodoo Fist Jam. VO- Beta: Sit down start in short fist crack. Top out.
5. The Big Heat. V6 *** Beta: The classic Call of the West face problem. Above a bulge,
ascend face on small edges and crystals, top out. Left arete is off; large edges on right
are off.
Animal Day. 5.7 X Beta: Start with hands matched in large horizontal on right face
above a bulge, and move up the arete. Don't top out over small boulder at top; instead,
traverse out left to finish on top part of "Call Box."
7. Call Box. 5.7 X Beta: Move up right side of dished face, top out. Everything is on.
8. Stan the Man. 5.7 X Beta: Move up left side of dished face, top out. Everything is on.
9. On Interstate 15. 5.7 Beta: Sit-down start in right dihedral, up left-leaning crack, top
out.
10. Morricone's Revenge. 5.7 Beta: Sit-down start, lieback the dihedral, top out.
11. Good Times. 5.7 Beta: Move up face between dihedral and arete, top out.
12. Ring of Fire. VO- XX Beta: On the arete, start in the flaring crack, move up to a shelf,
then up the finger crack to a mantel over the top.
13. Dark Continent, A.K.A, Brad's Worst Nightmare. 5.7 Beta: Start with hands matched on
large shelf on southwest arete, with arms straight; mantel up shelf, then mantel over
the next block.
14. Longarm. 5.7 Beta: Flaring crack, top out.
15. Back in Flesh. VO X Beta: Start with hands matched low on large incut, ascend arete,
top out.
16. Voodoo Dihedral. VO ** Beta: Start low in less than vertical dihedral, top out.

The Voodoo Formation

17. Poop Chute. VO Beta: Sit-down start in crack, top out.

18. Jesse James. V2/V3 Beta: Sit down lieback between "The Call of the West" and "Poop
Chute."
19. The Call of the West. V5 ** XX Beta: Start on the overhanging face to the left of the
"Poop Chute" crack, using a thin face hold, a small crystal, or a high undercling. To
finish, don't top out direct, but traverse up and to the left. Rocks on lower left are off.
20. The Wall of Voodoo. VI *** XX Beta: The other classic Call of the West face problem.
Start with left hand on high incut sidepull, right hand pinching high on arete. Move
up face to left and top out. Watch out: very bad landing!
21. Voodoo Lieback. 5.7 * Beta: In the double crack, start with hands in thinner right
crack, lieback the crack. Left face on for feet. Move right up the face and top out on the
finish of "The Wall of Voodoo."
22. TseTseFly. V3/V4? Beta: Sit-down start in left leaning thin finger crack, top out.
23. Choking on Toothpaste. VO- Beta: Start with hands matched on large horizontal, move
up through short fist crack, top out.
This special supplement to Issue #12 (May/June 1998) of mOthEr rOck Magazine is ©1998
Matt Artz/The AMCC Group. Neither the author or the publisher assume any liability for
use of this mini-guide. Climb safely. Cover: James March on "The Wall of Voodoo," VI.
There are several things that you can do to apply these prin-
ciples to your climbing. When you are climbing, try to merge
with the mountain's energy and enjoy the ride. Visualize that So Cal Guidebooks from
you, your gear, and the mountain are all one entity. There is
no longer you climbing the mountain; there is just the act of
climbing. Attempt to stretch your awareness out to encompass
the entire universe. Relax and let all of your daily concerns
and worries fade away. Make your mind as clear and empty
mother
as a bright blue sky. If occasional thoughts pop into your mOthEr rOck's Sport Climbing in the
head, don't become discouraged, simply acknowledge them Santa Monica's
and allow your focus to shift back to climbing. The goal is for
you to become the experience and lose any perception of you By Louie Anderson
as an individual energy form. There is only climbing. 48 pages. $7.95.
Another important thing to consider is that you must forget
thinking about whether or not you will succeed on your climb.
You should have no concern at all about the outcome of your mOthEr rOck's Enlightenment Ridge
climb. Worrying about the future will not help you in the Bouldering Guide, Pine Mountain
present. You should concentrate all your energy into the By Reese Martin
present task of climbing. Bruce Lee once said, "You must 12 pages. $2.50.
never concern yourself with the outcome of a fight, it will only
distract you from the task at hand." This is also true of climb-
ing. Let go of your attachment to climbing success, and you mOthEr rOck's Call of the West
will succeed in climbing. Also, don't be afraid of failure. Bouldering Guide, Snow Valley
Setbacks are only gifts from God to help you learn about By Matt Artz
yourself. Analyze your mistakes and try to learn from them.
If you do this, you will find that climbing is really just a 4 pages. $1.00.
reflection of your life, and you can use what you learn on the
wall to not only help you become a better climber, but also a
better person. The Best of mOthEr rOck , Vol. 1
Edited By Matt Artz
Zen master Shunryu Suzuki once said, "In the beginner's mind
there are many possibilities, but in the expert's there are few." 34 pages. $6.00.
Whenever you sense that your climbing skill is beginning to
plateau, be sure to remember that the real goal of climbing is to
have fun. So feel the flow of your climbing, and know that mOthEr rOck Magazine's Box Springs
you are not climbing for some future reward, because the real Sport Climbing Guide
reward is now. If you follow this path I cannot guarantee that By Aaron Rough
you will proceed up the ranks. However, I can guarantee that
your climbing will become more rewarding, because it will
29 pages. $6.00.
become a new path to self-knowledge, peace, and enlighten-
ment. mOthEr rOck Magazine's Turtle Rock
Bouldering Guide
About the Author
Bill Loux is currently serving out a four year, sentence in the
By Matt Artz
U.S. Air Force, and hoping for a "Kelly Flinn" discharge. He 44 pages. $8.00.
currently lives in Okinawa, Japan, and is an avid student of
Asia and Climbing. Please feel free to contact him with any mOthEr rOck Magazine's Guide to the
questions or just to chat! His E-mail address is 1984 California Bouldering Contest at Mt.
louxwe@kdnO.attnet.or.jp Rubidoux
By Matt Artz
Taoism Resources
28 pages. $5.00.
For further information on using the Eastern philosophy of
Taoism in your climbing please try the following books: mOthEr rOck Magazine's Mini-Guide to
• Thinking Body, Dancing Mind: Taosportsfor Extraordinary Iris Slab, Eastern Sierra
Performance, by Chungliang Al Huang and Jerry Lynch. By Matt Artz
12 pages. $3.00.
• Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience, by Mihaly
Csikszentmihalyi.
To order, send remittance to mOthEr rOck, PO Box 7951,
Redlands,CA 92375-1151. All prices include postage.

mOthEr rOck magazine Page 4 May/June 1998

 Night Ride to Tikal
Restaurant Review and Snow Valley Folklore, by Clem Henriksen
The ride started after sunset. Only the purest mountain bikers
showed up. You had to want to ride. Even so, some of the
young hammerheads didn't make it in the winter. You had to
have decent lights—two C cells was just not going to make it.
In the dark under the pepper tree across from the Mentone
Yacht Club, ten or so diehard riders checked gear, shouldered
hydrasacs, and talked bikes. Red rear lights blink as they talk.
"Hey Gary, how ya doin?"
"Doin1 good."
"How do you like that new frame?"
"It's a plush ride; my arm shocks like it! Bob, I see you
finally got your headlamp together."
"Yeah, I been using a Krypton bulb and it seems to be
working out."
"Where we goin' tonight?"
"We did Crafton last week, maybe we'll go Workout."
You can't stand around too long all geared up. When it's time
to go, it's time to go. Just when the group is poised for flight,
Peg pulls in. She quickly hops out, unbolts the forks from the
bed of her truck and puts on the front wheel. "We're doing
Workout? OK, take off. I'll catch up." A couple of antsy
tailgunners switch on and cycle off down the dark street, their
lights blobbing the road ahead.
The pack glides by the old Lockheed plant. Then off the
pavement, the dirt very rough. Construction vehicles have
churned up round river bottom stones and obliterated the trail.
The riders concentrate on finding the right gear with a flurry
of shift clicks and thread up the singletrack in an unplanned
natural order.
Bob meets up with Mary and Peg at The Wall.
"And when my daughter finally moved out, I went out and
got a tatoo to celebrate", says Peg.
"Anywhere you can show us?", laughs Mary.
"Sure, its a nice little heart on my ankle."
"Speaking of tattoos, I got one," says Bob.
"A tattoo?"
"No, a story; a goodie. A friend of mine is a climber. And
you know climbers, they're even crazier than mountain
bikers."
"Well sure, look what they do for fun."
"That's right. Anyway. My friend went to a climbing
contest. Up in Snow Valley." The story came out in bursts as
Bob he cranked hard to keep up with Peg and Mary.
"It was a big deal. They had sponsors. And a big party
afterwards. One of the sponsors had a booth. And was giving
away press-on tattoos."
"I knew there was a connection in there somewhere."
"You bet. During the day folks were getting them put on
their arms, their foreheads. All the usual places. But later
when the party started. And the beer got to flowing. One guy
decides that he wants a tattoo on his butt. And of course. Once
mOthEr rOck magazine Page 5
one person gets a tattoo on his butt. Then everyone has to
have a tattoo on their butt."
"Of course." We're moving along The Wall fast now on the
pavement.
"An unwary young woman volunteered...to apply tattoos
early in the day...now she's faced...with an army of asses."
"So to speak."
"Right. Soon a few dozen guys...and a half dozen
women...are lined up to bare butt."
"She must have been a quick tattooer, to get all those people
done. Most tattoos take a while."
"Oh, no, they were temporary tattoos. Not real."
"Oh, fake tattoos."
"Oh yeah, sure. It wouldn't be funny if they were real."
The full moon is about to rise. The moon glows behind
Greyback. Brighter stars are visible, and cast across the dome
of sky.
Mary picked her way cautiously past the gate and onto
Greenspot Road. "Clear." Peg and Bob followed. "Clear...Clear."
"There's more", said Bob, once they were abreast. "Car back,"
said Peg. They swerved in single file to the turnout by the
Wall. They undipped, stopped, and shut off their lights. "Bob
is sharing a tattoo tale," said Peg to the rest of the group.
"All good clean fun," continued Bob. "The evening went on,
more beer flowed, and they got to the awards part of the
evening. Many of the folks called up to the stand to get their
awards were people with tattooed butts. When they went up,
their friends in the crowd started chanting "Tat-too,Tat-too,"
and of course they had to moon the crowd."
"You gotta admit, its more exciting than the usual century,"
said Peg.
"That it then? We all here? Let's go." When they made the turn
up the hill into the groves, they rode straight to the full moon
now rising behind Mt. San Bernardino. "A-Whoo!!," somebody
howled in the dark. Most cranked silently, concentrating on
their cadence as the uphill again sorted the riders. By the next
stop the first riders had been resting at the junction for a
couple minutes. Bob, in the slowbie slot, grannied the last
section to the flat.
"Some moon," said Roger. Bob said nothing, his breath
drawn in deep gasps. That last section up from the conveyor
belt was a steep sumbitch.
"You all right, Bob?"
"Yeah."
"Still talking, good... We all here, then," said Mary. Shoes
clicked in, and the riders strung out along Lower Workout.
The rule was the group moved when the last rider joined up.
Lower is fairly level, and the faster riders moved out quickly,
following the contour in and out of moonshadow. The Seven
Oaks Dam conveyor lights were bright at first, but dimmed as
May/June 1998
 they moved east. The moonlight deceptively revealed the trail,
but not always the right line. Helmet light if you have it, and Sherman on Beer (cont. from page 2)
click on handlebar lights for the downhills.
At the gate at the end of Lower the group talked quietly and up to Mammoth with all our gear, in exchange for drinking
looked out over the valley. Peg, riding sweep, came by without privileges and the chance to die rappelling back down drunk.
a pause and turned downhill. The rest followed, spacing Problem was we were shy a haul bag to do the route with. By the
carefully for the fast downhill on the smooth dirt road. Roger time we scrounged one up, all the beer was gone. We actually
waited, saying "I always outrun my light on this." A couple climbed the wall without beer—this seems hard to believe, but it's
newbies, eyes watering, missed the turn at the bottom and true. When we reached the East Ledges, it appeared we might
caught up with the group at the wash. The mighty Santa Ana miss last call at the MR Bar. Hence, we left our gear on top, fixed
was running six feet across. "So who's gonna get their feet the raps, and sped down. The next morning my hands were
wet?" asked Mary. Roger came up, downshifted, and rode swollen like bunches of bananas, my feet blistered raw and
across. "No problem," he shouted back. oozing, and my head felt like the bleachers at Mile High Stadium
At Highway 38, the group split up. Another leg up Poles for with a sell-out crowd pounding out "We Will Rock You" with
some, the rest heading back with wet shoes and dim lights. their feet. Pig Ranger woke me, then tried to bust me, then I had
"See you at Casa Maya."
to jug back up the East Ledges to retrieve gear. I have never set
"What time is it?"
out on another multi-day wall without beer since.
"8:15."
"We can do Poles and get there by 9 easy." mOthEr: Looking back on your long and distinguished career, hind-
"All right, see you there." sight being 20/20, would you drink any differently?
The Poles group hammered up the stony riverbottom Vermin: I would have you ship me a case of good beer before I
doubletrack. At the top, they turned into the obscure answer any more questions.
singletrack. Only a foot wide in places, it was generally
smooth except for the sudden turns and bumps across drain-
age. The low chaparral scratched the riders legs, but did not
slow them up. At the highway, a time check. Still time for
more singletrack before the restaurant closed.
The lower singletrack was used more, the trail rockier, but
wide and familiar. The twisty route through the wash back to
the Wall, and then the last section to Mentone. The riders
pushed hard, knowing when they could crank on the straights,
and when they would have to unclip to get over rock piles.
Once back on pavement, they kept the pace and straggled back
to the parking lot. So good to ride, so good to stop.
Stow the gear. A quick cleanup, a change of shirt and shoes.
Comb and brush. Drive a block to Casa Maya, the usual
crowded parking lot. Grab a beer from the fridge on the way
to the table. Bob and Doug were on their second Pacificos, and
working on their food. Roger had the big pork quesadilla,
Doug his usual bowl of black bean soup, and a chicken taco ala
carte. Bob, looking up, advised "Better order quick, close to
quittin' time for the kitchen." The riders didn't need menus,
and gave their orders quickly. The hungry ones ordered the
Yucatan plates. The sopa de lima and the fish tacos were rider
favorites for lighter appetites. But it was fun to try something
new and the Yucatan specialties were different. And always a
great way to end a ride.

V.--V-" UJJ - | V

I ' I 1 • I |

"";
Name the climber and the problem. Be the first to E-mail us at
While the characters in this review are fictitious, the food and motherrock@aol.com with the correct answers, and you'll win a
the Snow Valley story are not. free mOthEr rOck guidebook of your choice. The climber and
photographer are not elligible (you know who you are...).
mOthEr rOck magazine Page 6 May/June 1998
 Above the Smogline
New Video Features Climbing in and Around Los Angeles
Reviewed by Matt Artz
1 .•'. • ;
Most climbing videos are like mediocre sex. You hope and
pray there is something better out there, but in the meantime, II 1: V

you'll take what you can get. iillllliK i 1 I , | : mm

So when Richard Pelusi first contacted me about his new
: :f ' • • • ' ' ' ' •
Video, Above the Smogline: Rock Climbing In and Around LA, I
couldn't resist.
When my wife and I sat down to watch it, I knew I would
enjoy it, just like all the other videos in my collection. But what
surprised me was that I REALLY enjoyed it. Like, it was good!
Real good! The clincher for me was when my wife turned to
me and said "This is so much better than all of those other crap
videos you watch" (referring of course to videos like One
Summer, The Real Thing, and Three Weeks and a Day.)
Okay, so she's a tough audience. But she was right. Above
Scott Cosgrove leads Father Figure, 5.12d, Joshua Tree.
the Smogline was different, in a good way. Could it be that it's
all So Cal climbing, and we at mOthEr rOck are a little biased?
Could it be the awesome climbers, the groovy soundtrack, and
the wonderful variety? Or could it be that this video is the first
I can remember seeing that almost completely lacks the inane
bullshit that gets in the way of the climbing?
Whatever. I don't want to over-analyze why something
struck me so positively. I just want to say that if I were you, I'd
get ready to shell out some cash for this baby.

.;;...::.... | I . . . .
• .. : •
:

II • • , >•,'"'} I ..;
In your face: Wills Young on The Frog Traverse, V5,
at The Swimming Hole. : 11. I ... - . . . . II

rods
PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151 USA
 Letter from the Editor...
Calling it Quits?
This was supposed to be it. The "editorial" for Issue #13 would be
where I announced the end of mOthEr rOck. Too much work. Not
enough time. Losing too much money. Interferes with my precious
climbing time. Blah blah blah.
The other day, I decided to go climbing. I wasn't feeling very
strong, or enthusiastic. Took my new mountain bike along, even
though I'm totally out of shape—especially for mountain biking at
high elevation. Headed up to the Pemo Boulders, which only
myself and Peter Moran ("Pemo") knew about, and had never
climbed on. Why was I doing this? Should have just stayed home.
In the parking lot, pulling my mountain bike off the roof rack,
my first positive thought of the day: boy, the new mountain bike
sure is lighter than the old one. And with 21 speeds, getting up the
steep parts of the dirt road should be much easier this time. Yeah,
things were looking good. Maybe I'd even get in a few FAs today!
Then I stepped back with the bike over my head, and my left foot
sank into a 6-inch deep hole. As the bike catapulted over my head, I
collapsed in a twisted mess on the bed of pine needles. My left
knee (AKA, the bad knee, AKA, the reason I don't run anymore,
AKA, the source of most of the pain in my life) hurt bad. I had a
huge bruise on my right leg. But the bike appeared to be OK.
It would have been easy to back out. It just made sense to. But I
decided to give it a try anyway. After a few hundred yards, across
the stream, at the first steep uphill portion, I downshifted to take
advantage of my new low gears—and nothing happened. Closer
inspection revealed that when the bike had caught air and crashed to
the ground, the rear derailer had come loose. And with no tools
what with travelling light, I was screwed.
Yet another opportunity to bag it in. But for some unknown
reason, I decided not to. Panting like a sick dog, pushing the bike
up the hills, through fog that reduced visibility down to 20 feet at
times (would I miss the two important forks in the road?), dodging
raindrops, what would I do upon arrival, if I could even remember
how to find this supposed clump of boulders?
Find it I did. Planting myself down in front of the first boulder I
came to, after some water, I looked up to behold a nice little seam
moving up a face. Within 5 minutes, the first problem had fallen at
the Pemo Boulders: a nice little 5.7 face called "Love at First
Sight." Several more nice 5.8 to 5.10a boulder problems fell that
day, and at least half of the area was mapped.
Let's just say it turned into a great day. The fog made the whole
experience one of the most surrreal I've ever had. The rock turned
out to be high in quality, some of the finest I've found in the San
Bernardino Mountains. And unlike some of the two- to three-move
sit-down problems I've recently been developing at Snow Valley
and elsewhere, there's plenty of highball stuff at the Pemo Boulders
to make even you guys with testicals of stainless steel whine for the
comfort of a toprope.
Sticking to my original plans, ignoring the numerous little voices
in my head telling me it would be so much easier to just go home
and do beer exercises on the couch for the rest of the day, I had
discovered the true potential of a very cool new bouldering area.
Nice story, you might say; but where does that leave mOthEr
rOckl Frankly, I don't know. I'll continue publishing as long as it
makes sense—which is as long as it makes everyone happy.
mOthEr rOck magazine
rOck
southern California's climbing magazine
Publisher Associate Editors
The AMCC Group Aaron Rough, Rob Stauder
Editor Assistant Editor
MattArtz RuthArtz
mOthEr rOck Contributors
Louie Anderson • Max Armpet • Jason Ballas • Reed Bartlett
Diane Chakmak * Amos Clifford • Heather Dolph • Ted Doughty Jr.
Daniel Eubank • Daniel Garcia • Bob Goff • Nancy Hampton
Christian Harder • Steve Harris • Amy Lobsinger • Fritz Lowrey
James March • Reese Martin • Travis McElvany • Matt McGunigle
Chris Miller • Darell Palmer • Steve Parker • Patrick Paul • Matt Polk
Matt Pollard • Ed Schmahl • Jann Senior • Brad Singer • Rob Stauder •
Brandon Thau • Randy Vogel • Todd Vogel • Geoff Wade • Bruce Wiley
Copyright©! 998 mOihEr rOckfThe AMCC Group. All rights reserved. mOthEr
rOck magazine is published six times a year (unless interrupted by a road trip to
climb somewhere) by The AMCC Group, PO Box 7951, Redlands, CA, 92375-1151
USA. E-mail: mOthHrrOck@aol.com -or- AMCCGroup@aol.com.
Subscriptions: No more subscriptions. E-mail: mOthErrOck@aol.com for info.
Editorial Submissions: Although the magazine is history, we'll continue to publish
new stories on the Web. Write it, send it to us, we'll consider it We're a no budget
operation, so send a SASE if you need your materials back. Photo submissions also
welcome. E-mail: rnOthErrOck@aol.com and let's discuss your story or photo ideas.
Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous. If you have not yet figured that out,
you're an idiot and you should probably stop climbing now before you hurt yourself
and others. And if you think you can bet your life or safety on anything you read in
mOthEr rOck, think again. We make no claims to the accuracy of any of the
information contained in these pages, and cannot be held responsible in any way for
any of your actions, acts of nature, or fate. You're on your own, bro. That's the way
it should be. Take responsibility for your own actions. You're a climber after all.
But for now, things will be a little different. I don't want to be
tied to the "6 issues a year" schedule—or any schedule for that
matter—so I'll no longer be accepting subscriptions. Existing
subscribers will get the correct number of issues they paid for. Non-
subscribers will be able to purchase single copies of new issues (and
any accompanying mini-guides) individually. Despite the well-
meaning comments from many readers, I have no intention to accept
advertising, go full color, etc. mOthEr rOck was meant to be a little
underground rag, and I hope it always stays that way. What So Cal
climbers don't need is another "fashion mag."
It's been a wild ride. Lots of work, and lots of fun. The best part
was all the people I've met along the way. Reese Martin, James
March, Max Armept, Wills Young, Aaron Rough, Louie Anderson,
Chris Miller, and so many others I better stop now before I fill the
whole page with another list of names. While mOthEr rOck has only
been on the scene for a little more than three years, I've made a
number of friendships that I have a feeling will last a lifetime.
And yes, I'll let you know where the Pemo Boulders are...as soon
as I finish a few projects there.
—Matt Artz, editor
On the Cover.
Russel Erickson focuses on the crux lunge on "The Home Away
from Home," his V5 testpiece at a new secret spot near Ojai,
California. Photo by Reese Martin.
July/August 1998
 B.K.TTR.&S.S A.K.A.

EAST FACES

LAKE,
CALIFORNIA

A PARKING PHLLOM.T CAN BE FOHNDJW.ST

EAST OF FISHERMAN'S BUTRESS. THE
R.OCK6 SITS SOUTH OF THE HIGHWAY •<*
MILES EAST OF THE. BICJ BEAR DAM.
A FMLL RACK. AND (2.M.ICHDRAWS.

CLIMBING IS AN INHERENTLY
CANCEROUS ACTIVITY. NO S.iOA *"
ONE SHOULD KS6 THIS TOPO
WITHOUT UNDERSTANDING
IN AMERICA' S.11C
THE RISk.S AND ACCEPTING
RESPONSIBILITY fOK- H]S OR
HER ACTIONS. THIS TOPO IS C1ZACK.' S.10£ •
COMPLETELY SUBJECTIVE. R.OR STAM.&E7Z
ALTHOUGH EVERY ATTEMPT
HAS BEEN MADE TO MAK.E CATCH ANti RELEASE' S.iiA
THIS TOPO ACCURATE, THERE SINGER,
ARE NO GUARANTEES. CLIMB
WISELY AND SAFELY- SHIT
HAPPENS! CRA'PP'IE CORNER' S'.IOA *
*EOR STAM.I>ER. BRAD
 WEST FACE
A- '
R. T>owe»z s'.ioc
F.A. siK/d;e
OB-6TZMAN
c.
15.
F.A. felZAD T>OCk.BTS

This special supplement to Issue #13 (July/August 1998) of

mOthEr rOck Magazine is copyright 1998 Brad Singer.
Neither the author nor the publisher assumes any liability for
use of this mini-guide. Climb safely.
 The Indifferent Boulders
New Mini-Guide Coming Soon
After driving by the big boulder on the side of the road
probably a hundred times, I finally decided to stop late one
afternoon. It was getting dark, but a quick ten minute tour
convinced me it was worth coming back for another look.
That second look came just a few days later, with Enrique
Yaptenco and Dave Scheirer after an afternoon session at Snow
Valley. Enough looking. Enrique and I went back a few days
later and went for it.
My initial estimate was, when fully tapped, the area would
hold maybe 50 problems. That first day with Enrique, I
mapped out most but not all of the formations, and identified
120 probable lines. With four or five weeks of work, the
finished problem count stood at almost 80, with unfinished
projects bringing the total count closer to 200 problems.
Enrique Yaptenco on a face problem on the "Wall of Elation"
at the Indifferent Boulders, 28 May 1998.
If you've checked out the mOthEr rOck Web site lately,
you've hopefully seen some of the cool photos of the Indiffer-
ent Boulders. While much more development needs to be
done there, mOthEr rOck will make every attempt to include a
mini-guide to whaf s been completed at the Indifferent Boul-
ders in the next issue of this fine rag.
mOthEr rOck magazine
L
Two New mOthEr rOck
Mini-Guides in This Issue
Surely you've already noticed the two new cool mini-guides
included in this issue. Frustration Creek is the hot new sport
climbing area near Forest Falls in the San Bernardino Moun-
tains, where Louie Anderson and others have been putting up
some long, mostly hard sport routes. Fisherman's Buttress is a
new sport climbing crag near Big Bear Lake that you have
probably not heard of before, because it was being kept pretty
quiet until recently.
Eco-Challenge, S.llb, Frustration Creek. Photo: Aaron Rough.
mOthEr rOck is already working on several additional mini-
guides which will be included in future issues. If you've got
information on a new or under-reported area that you'd like to
share with your fellow So Cal climbers, please contact us!
Photo of the MonthSolution
And now, the answer to the mystery photo contest that ap-
peared in Issue #12 of mOthEr rOck magazine:
Wills Young on "Softly Softly," V6, at Pine Mountain.
The winner was Jumpin' James March, who wins a copy of
Louie Anderson's guidebook "Sport Climbing in the Santa
Monicas." Congrats, James!
Pasre 2 July/August 1998
 Mud Wrestling with mOthEr rOck
Mississippi Mud, Vision Quests, and Things Left Unclimbed
Beer Review bv Matt Artz
I've never been to Mississippi, but when I was a kid I played in
the mud for recreational purposes, and I drink beer as an adult
for similar reasons. This therefore qualifies me to write a beer
review of Mississippi Mud.
Let me just say first thing: Could this be the perfect beer? A
bold statement, yes. What is perfection? Let us review for a
moment what constitutes a great beer, and see how The Mud
stands up.
Flavor. Yummy. What more can I say? A lot, or I wouldn't
have a beer review.
Utility: Bottles can suck, although the only thing worse is a
can. Don't you sometimes wish you could pour your brew
into your Nalgene bottle (or is it just me)? Enter The Mud,
and if s one-of-a-kind utilitarian holder. I'll just say that if s
"reclosable," without implying that if s a "twist-off." It has the
classic "jug" handle that makes you feel like an inbred redneck
as you tip the bottle back when drinkin' it. The bottle is even
covered with some kind of strange styrafoam coating, to shield
it from sharp objects and serve as an insulator.
Adaptability: You throw an ice cold beer in your pack,
head out to the crag, tear it up, then say to yourself, "I sure
could use an ice cold beer right now." Problem is, while
you've been climbing, 12 ounces of liquid gold has been
transformed into 12 ounces of camel piss. Oh, but not The
Mud. The Mud has the unique ability to taste better as it gets
warmer! My friends from the UK tell me this is in fact the
"propper" English way to drink good beer, but I still think
they're full of shit. We won the war, damn it! The Mud is the
exception, not the rule.
Diversity. A beer is a beer and a meal is a meal...but a good
beer, depending on which region of the country you call home,
is either a sandwich in every bottle, or a porkchop in every
southern California'a climbing magazine
PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151 USA
can. The Mud is different. In the 32 ounce reclosable bottle, The
Mud is the all-you-can-eat salad bar of beers. Because of its
black-and-tan nature, there's a honey baked ham and a fine
pilsner in every bottle.
Flexibility. You know the feeling. You want a beer, you drink
a beer. But you drink a Mud, you drink three beers. Know what
I'm trying to say here? I have no idea either.
Buzz Factor. Archie Fire Lame Deer, in his book Gift of Power:
The Lift and Teachings of a Lakota Medicine Man, describes the
process of crawling into a small pit for four days and praying for
an answer from the Supernaturals. Drink The Mud in the
sufficient quantities, and I guarantee you'll see visions. All
questions will be answered, and you don't have to crawl into a
vision pit and starve yourself for four days. However, drink too
much, and you may wish you had crawled into the pit. Now,
some people may take serious offense to my comparing a
pedestrian activity like beer drinking to a serious spiritual quest
that means so much to Native Americans. But those people have
never tasted The Mud. No matter our heritage, we all seek
visions.
One of the joys of drinking a black-and-tan beer in a nice bar is
that if s unusual. Now you can carry all the joy along with you
to the crag. Go out and grab yourself a 32 ouncer of Mississippi
pleasure. Pour it in your Nalgene if you must, but you'll be
missing the special character the bottle adds to the already
wonderful experience.
Just one question: why have I never met a climber from
Mississippi?
Note; mOthEr rOck reccommends you climb and drink responsibly.
 To V or Not to V
The Vermin Scale Takes So Cal Bouldering by Storm
ByMattArtz
When I first told him I was considering writing an article on the
adoption of the V scale in So Cal bouldering circles, Robs Muir
responded, "Grading? Isn't that something we do in SCHOOL?
What does that have to do with the real world!?"
That's a pretty interesting observation, coming from a man who is
not only an incredible boulderer, but also a teacher.
Bouldering is but one variation of what can be a very spiritual
activity: climbing. The hours, days, sometimes years you spend on a
single problem, sometimes a single move, can lead to a lot of
introspection and philosophizing. If you boulder a lot, you know
this. If you don't boulder a lot, you should get out more.
So why would someone take something so personal, so unique, so
indescribable, and try to compare it to thousands of other climbing
experiences by means of a number with the letter "V" in front of it?
Good question.
"The glory of bouldering, to my way of thinking, is the distilled
essence of movement," commented Muir. "Most great boulder
problems can be reduced to a few wonderful moves; those great
moves are often dependent on body type, size, type of move (dy-
namic, or thin edge, or steep, or mantel, etc.), time of day, phase of
the moon, and so on. I have not yet seen any satisfactory way to
compare a mantel problem with, say, a difficult overhanging hand-
traveling problem. While we might agree that both are difficult,
resonable adults will disagree on which might be MORE difficult
since these two problems demand very different skill sets and
radically different techniques."
"What's the motivation to try and grade such wonderfully unique
and intrinsically different problems?," Muir asked me. "Utility, or a
need for ego gratification? Seems to me that just because you can
bag a V15 of some type, doesn't mean that you can get off the ground
on a 5.11a elsewhere. Does that still mean you're a 'V15 climber'
And who REALLY cares?"
Do we really need rating systems? To me, bouldering isn't a sport,
but a lifestyle. It isn't a way to compare myself with others, but a
way to express my own personality. While I personally abhor the
though of using the V scale or any other system to in any way
compete against or compare myself to another climber, I find it very
useful as a very rough yardstick in setting goals for myself, and for
tracking my personal development in realtion to these goals.
The Big V in So Cal
So do we really need a yet another rating system in So Cal? We
seemed to be getting along fine without it. "Rubidoux has lots of
very cool problems," oberserves Muir. "Yet the rating system has
absolutely no meaning for regular boulderers. Various people have
tried to assign numbers to things (Mackay, Vogel, Fry, etc.), and
almost every number is controversial to someone. While ratings
might give a guidebook writer something to talk about, and might
give a new visitor to an area some idea about where the harder
mOthEr rOck magazine Page 1
problems can be found, I think most of us eventually settle into the
pattern of doing the problems that intrigue us aesthetically, challenge
us physically, puzzle us intellectually, and satisfy us emotionally."
At first, V was something foreign to most So Cal climbers, like pof
or Fountain Bleu (hint: it rhymes with Mountain Dew). It started
showing up in some guidebooks, and we all heard about it in the
climbing rags, when Messier So-and-so climbed his new V500 in
Brand X(TM) shoes. But the V scale has more recently exploded on
the So Cal bouldering scene with surprising intensity. "It seems that
California is slow to adopt the scale," observed James March, "but I
myself didn't start using it until a few years back." Perhaps the time
has come for a new system, and V is the perfect system. Or perhaps
it's related to the rennaisance in bouldering that's hit So Cal in the last
year or two, and V is simply a new system in the right place at the
right time.
Harder than Hueco?
Regardless of why it's here, or if we really need it, it's the rating
system du jour. Invented by John "Vermin" Sherman in Hueco
Tanks, Texas, there has been much talk that V ratings in Hueco are
softer than the same number as applied here in So Cal. Scott
Cosgrove notes that "the V scale in Hueco is about two grades higher
than Joshua Tree." Cosgrove gives an example of V ratings being
stiffer in So Cal than in Hueco. "I did Matt Hoch's new problem
("Necessary Faggery," in the Stonehenge Boulders area of Cap Rock)
at Joshua Tree. I think it is about standard Joshua Tree V6 or V7. In
Heuco, it would probably be V9."
Wills Young disagrees. "Generally speaking, I think grades in So
Cal, where they have a concensus, closely mirror the grades at
Hueco, and other climbers I've spoken to feel the same way," notes
Young. "Certainly the aim is for consistency across the region and
across the world... Although no matter what grade a problem is
given, this will only ever be a general concensus and will feel harder
or easier according to one's body size and idiosyncrasies—generally
harder due to a tendency to go with the lowest agreeable grade!"
Is the adoption consistent across So Cal? Since I've noticed a
discrepencey in the rating system comparison matrices common in
local guidebooks, I had to ask. Why is it that some folks say VI
equals YDS 5.10d, yet others insist it starts at 5.11a? "Center El
Murray was the original VI (now the standard V6) for reasons I
won't divulge here," replied Sherman. "When I decided to use an
open-end system for the Hueco guidebook, VI got downsized to
make it accessible to the book-buying public. I never imagined it
would escape Hueco Tanks."
"Whether VI is lOb, lOc, lOd, 11 a, or 12j I suppose depends on
what you think of those YDS grades, which probably depends on
what area you call home," added Sherman. "I didn't set out to
compare V grades with YDS grades-if I felt bouldering could be
rated that way, I'd have stuck with YDS grades and never started a
September/October 1998
Insert
 Mill Wash
Bouldering Guide
Aaron Rough

If s very easy to get to Mill Wash. Simply take the 10 freeway

east to Lugonia Ave. Follow the signs that lead to Highway 38.
This is the back way to Big Bear (and the way to Frustration
Creek). There are multiple pull offs up the canyon.

The canyons rock is a sandstone conglomerate that in many MlllCneJt

cases has been washed smooth by the action of Mill Creek. Picnic Awa
Large cliffs sit behind the boulders, and who knows, someone
with alot of balls may just decide to put a route or two up on
them. The picnic area currently has the only bolted routes; all of
the rest is bouldering.

Please watch out for poison oak, as it is abundant in the shade.

Lots of potential for more bouldering is found on many of
the boulders shown. Also, there are many boulders found in the
canyon between the picnic area and the bouldering area to the
south that have potential. Anyone looking to wander around
and pick off first ascents should have plenty of things to do.
Please E-mail me (roughit3@aol.com) with information any new
problems or routes you may do, so I can update the topo.

TO

Cover Photo: Aaron Rough on Mean Machine, V2, Mill Wash.

 Mapil

Map *3

Map«2 Lots Of
Potential
Bolted Route. On Many
OfTk*
%mf,12* *» BouldtB
S. 12* I ^-sX VI
V2 W -W
I '

QD^\ \!

vo

This special supplement to Issue #14 (September/October 1998) of

mOthEr rOck Magazine is ©1998 Aaron Rough. Neither the author
or the publisher assume any liability for use of this mini-guide.
Climb safely.
 Insert

mother rock's
Guide to the
Backside Boudlers
San Bernardino National Forest
 Ta
Guide to the '*
ao
Backside Boulders PH
cu
h • * » » * .,Pn
CD

Aaron Rough

The Backside Boulders is an area that has been around for a

•3
while, but no one took the time to document any of the prob- |
lems. It is very easy to get there. From Big Bear, follow the *'*
"o
easiest route to Highway 18 (this is the way to reach the High PLI
Cti
o
** -
8
Desert/Lucerne Valley from Big Bear, i.e. "the backside"). Fol- M
O
low Highway 18 till the obvious summit where you will start
dropping down towards the desert. From the top of the hill °.-r , &
(which has a gravel pull out on the right hand side), it is ap-
proximately 2.5 miles down the road, which has lots of sharp i-pMhlb- 8-
curves. You will reach a plateau after around 1.5 miles; watch for
a white sign post that says "SH18 60 50". From here, the turn off
.-T3
-«cu ,o;
is 0.6 miles further, and on the right. It is fairly hard to see, so O' r>•• >* .
slow down, right at 0.6 miles. Turn right, follow the dirt road
crossing over another large dirt road, and there you are.
/
6 oT

Cover Photo: Aaron Rough on Picasso, V2, Backside Boulders.

This special supplement to Issue #14 (September/October 1998) of
mOthEr rOck Magazine is ©1998 Aaron Rough. Neither the author
or the publisher assume any liability for use of this mini-guide.
Climb safely.
uo.ir>v
 Jack
Bouldering Guide
Aaron Rough

The New Jack Boulders are located on the south side of the ridge
that divides New Jack City to the south. To get there, turn left off
of Highway 247 at Lucerne Valley Road. Follow this for approxi-
mately 2.1 miles. You will see a sign post with a blue reflector on
top of two red reflectors. Turn right here, but turn left on the
firstmajor dirt road. Follow this but stay left until you come to ,9
an intersection, at which you turn right and head towards the
hill.
*• e F
-C-. >
L^fr. —S
i^e-. S- — _fr.
The rock is similar to New Jack City, but the boulders are 1— 1

<cJr^ >~ —K
definately made of a more solid matrix. Many of the *• rv^
boulder problems marked with a "?" on the topos have been )s > B
done, but I don't know their difficulty or they have just been
looked at.

If you do any new boulder problems or know the ratings on

some of the problems marked with a "?,"please E-mail me at
roughit3@aol.com.

Cover Photo: Aaron Rough on a V5 at the New Jack Boulders.

This special supplement to Issue #14 (September/October 1998) of
mOthEr rOck Magazine is ©1998 Aaron Rough. Neither the author
or the publisher assume any liability for use of this mini-guide.
Climb safely.
new grading system. That said, I set VI where I thought a novice
climber that could do 10 pull-ups would succeed, but not after
several tries or days. At the time, I felt bouldering should be hard,
therefore VI would be a hard problem for a beginner."
"Possibly, when rating problems far from Hueco, those doing the
rating will often lean towards a lower grade," Young speculates.
"This may be because they fear subsequent down-rating, and are
unsure if the problem is as hard as they think. Sometimes climbers
remember a trip they made to Hueco long ago, when they were not as
strong or as good a climber. The result is that other climbers find
problems of a certain grade outside Hueco give them more trouble
than did problems of that grade at Hueco. Hence comes the joke ...
'Oh, yeah, but you know Hueco V-grades are all soft!' This is a joke
that I often make when people talk about Hueco Tanks and V-grades.
I usually state this dead seriously and often people think about it and
then say... 'Really? You think so?'
"Of course it's illogical to suggest that all the V-grades at Hueco
are soft," continues Young. "When using the scale elsewhere, the
idea is to mirror the very grades used at Hueco. Problems will also
inevitably occur because of the difficulty of equating problems on
rock very different to that at Hueco, and hence with very different
types of moves and techniques/skills required."
"As to the spread of V grades to So Cal and elsewhere," says
Sherman, "at times I'm flattered to have left a mark on the sport, at
other times disgusted. I'd rather be known for the problems I put up,
than the V system. Ironically, I put V grades in the Hueco guide, but
not FA stats. I've seen a lot of ugliness done in the name of number
chasing. In bouldering, V grades have fueled this. If this dark cloud
has a silver lining, I hope climbers lured into bouldering by V grades
will wake up and discover that number chasing is bouldering on the
lowest level. The experience beyond that is a thousand times more
powerful. I'll spare you the 'at one with the boulders' spiel."
To V or Not to V
Asked about the meaning of bouldering ratings, Robs Muir offered
some justified criticism. "They mean very little, and often have very
little relationship to offer by way of comparison to other problems. If
the goal of ratings are to allow climbers to compare one problem to
another (instead of the more common use-that of satisfying egos),
then ratings fail miserably. The problem, I see, is one of absolutes.
Sherman's V system (like most others) can be interpreted in ways
which force comparisons between incomparable problems."
"I personally think that a open-ended grading scale is better than
the old B-scale," says James March. "One big plus with the V scale
is that it narrows the gaps between the degrees of difficulty, so what
was once Bl can now be better understood as V4, V5, V6, or V7.
One drawback is the further need to fine tune particular problems
which fall between a grade, i.e., V5/6.1 feel this can also be defined
as V5+, but Wills Young on the other hand says this is like saying the
grade is 12c+. I do see his point, but those Brits just love a good
argument. I feel a grade like V5/6 is better left to those problems
which are harder for shorter people like dynos or reach problems. I
suppose it could work the other way around, but I haven't yet found a
short guy revenge problem that is graded this way.
"Another drawback of the V scale is that many boulder problems
might be of a strange nature, i.e., jump starts, cheat blocks, condi-
mOthEr rOck magazine Page 2
tions, etc., where a specific grade even V5/6 might not do it justice as
a grade. In these cases the old Johnny Gill B1 seems to work better
because it is vague," adds March. "Also, the V scale has fallen
victim to the ego inflating chase for higher numbers. Just as mile
runners seek to drop their numbers, today's top climbers are pushing
the envelope and raising the standards to an awesome level, V14!
With this comes the hopefully rare case of some wannabes chipping
the problems down to there level so they can purport a send of a
particular grade. The complete irony of the V-scale is John Sherman
himself claims that the 'number chasing thing' has detracted from the
very soul of bouldering itself. It is a monster he has created that now
he doesn't even bother to use. He has told me that he never rates his
problems these days and for this I have to give him credit."
Muir also sees the benefits of the Gill scale. "I still like Gill's old
method of B ratings that takes into consideration how many people
have done the problem; this, at least, gives some indication of how
physically demanding is a particular style of move." Others have
their own favorites. "Personally, I like the A, B, C scale Mari
(Gingery) came up with," opines Cosgrove, "but whatever."
Whatever, indeed. All this said, the V scale is just a rating system.
It was created to try to correct some of the shortcomings of previ-
ously exisiting systems, so it's no surprise to anyone that it has
shortcomings of its own. "One can invest lots of energy in trying to
develop a fair, comprehensive, and inclusive rating system that
would be universally transportable," notes Muir. "But I think that it's
doomed to failure, because it doesn't celebrate the uniqueness in a
great problem." Yet rating systems appear to be here to stay, so
perhaps James March summed it up best: "If there is to be a world-
wide scale, this might as well be the one, since it's already in wide
usage."
Assigning grades is inherently fraught with injustice, yet is a
necessary evil. Like students in a classroom, each boulder problem
is unique, defying description in a 1,000 word essay, let alone
distilled to a one or two character grade. "The biggest mistake
people make regarding ratings is thinking that things are rated as if
on a level, with all climbs of a certain grade being at the SAME level
of difficulty," observes Young. "This is a logical impossibility, given
that climbs can be progressively more difficult in innumerable ways
and by any degree."
In the real world, a grade is a rough yardstick, and is just one of
many considerations. When you're old and decrepit, sitting in the old
folks home peeing into a bag and reliving your glory days with your
buds, you'll be thinking about the beautiful moves on your favorite
boulder problem....and the grade, whether 5.4 or B2 or V17, will be
irrelevent. In the long term, like schooling, what you learned from
the experience is vastly more significant than some arbitrary grade
awarded to it.
On the Cover.
Geoff Wade spots Rob Stauder as he powers his way up the
Northeast Arete (5.10+) of the Wave Boulder near Turlte
Rock/Real Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree. Photo by Matt Artz.
September/October 1998

Tequilapalooza: The
Ultimate Tequila Taste Test
By Dave Scheirer and George Ishikawa
Editor's Note: Rather than do just another boring beer review, we've
opted for something a little different this month: a tequila taste test!
The Mystery of Tequilapalooza
Originally, it started while six of us were sitting by the pool, being
roasted by the hot noon sun. Perhaps it was a delirious reaction from
the heat, but we had a group hallucination of margarita blenders on
the BBQ by the pool. Amazingly, each one of us saw our favorite
tequila-based drink in the blenders. Then-maybe it was Dave who
noticed it first-there were actual electrical outlets located below the
blender mirage. Naturally, Dave (a great man of action) took this
vision and confirming sign as a personal mission to fulfill. Thus, the
tequila tasting cultural event emerged. We called it Tequilapalooza.
Tequila: A Primer
To be called tequila, at least 51% of the sugar content must come
from the blue agave plant. In other words, up to 49% can come from
added sugars. By using other sugars, the distiller can use fewer or
even immature agave plants to reach the level of fermentable sugars
required without the cost of using mature plants. 100% blue agave
tequila is more expensive to produce and can only be bottled in
Mexico under government inspection. I'll have at least four different
100% blue agave brands to test. Interestingly, of the common Jose
Cuervo brands (White, Gold, 1800, and Tradicional) only Tradicional
is 100% blue agave. The 100% brands vary from $15 to $40+ a
bottle while the blended brands vary from $9 to $20 for a 750ml
bottle. One question to ponder in our taste test was whether 100%
blue agave makes a difference and is worth the extra money?
There are four types of tequila:
• White or Silver (Blanco) - considered as unaged up to 60 days.
Tequila fresh from the still which may be brought to commercial
proof with the addition of demineralized water. (All four types may
have demineralized water added.)
• Gold (Joven Abocado) - unaged with allowable additions of
southern California's climbing magazine
PO Box 7951
Redlands, CA 92375-1151
colorings and flavorings.
• Reposado (Rested) - aged in oak tanks or barrels from 60 days to
one year. Flavorings and colorings permissible.
• Anejo (Aged)- must be aged in government sealed barrels (not
tanks ) for a minimum of one year. Flavorings and colorings
permissible.
The label always identifies the tequila type. For example there are
varieties of Cuervo 1800 in both the Reposado and Anejo type.
Another question to answer in our taste test was whether aging in
oak makes a difference? We can answer that by comparing two
premium tequilas, Cabo Wabo (Reposado) vs. Patron (Silver).
The Taste Test
• Magueyes Reposado—At $10 a bottle, this stuff went fast. I don't
think it even made it to the main taste test. It must have been really
good.
• Centinela Reposado-This also emptied fast. It passed the straight
up test with seemingly great aplomb, but did not make the best
margaritas (some blamed the mixer). A bit pricey at $25 a bottle.
• Sauza Conmemorativo—An Anejo tequila priced at $22 a bottle, and
it also went fast. Gee, that's strange, the same Sauza Conmemorativo
we purchased at $17 is still two thirds full?
• Patron-Tops in its class, probably the best straight up. Light, but
complex sweetness and easy straight up. This Silver tequila was also
the most expensive, at $40 a bottle.
• Cabo Wabo-This Reposado tequila weighs in at a hefty $35 a
bottle. Cool bottle, and it rocks! Great straight up, has a little
oakiness, and mixes with the best.
• Conmemorativo—mixes great (made the favorite margaritas),
smoky when straight up, and perhaps a little disappointing, because
our expectation were high for a $22 Anejo tequila.
• Hornitos—the pleaser of the bunch, its like Sara Lee "nobody
doesn't like..." A bargain at $20 a bottle.
• Sauza Blanco—At $11 a bottle, only one-fouth the cost of the
premium, yet mixes just fine. Straight up it is not complex; simple,
like a white grain Vodka.
• Cuervo Gold-Mixes fine, but a strong bite when straight up, not
smooth...and $16 a bottle.
The Aftermath
Are pickles always that tasty with Cocoa Krispies? What kind of
tobacco is in Swiss cigars? How long will it be before we have
tequila again?