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Homemade CNC Router The Builders Guide (FREE!
The Builder's Guide

"Your homemade CNC router project begins
here"
Introduction
So you've decided to
build a homemade CNC
router or maybe you’re
just considering it, but
where do you start?
There are many
advantages to owning a
CNC router. Homemade
CNC routers can cut and
carve almost anything.
For any hobbyist or
DIY’er, this opens many
doors. The fact that you
could own one for a
fraction of the retail cost
is even more enticing.
Yes, you can build a CNC router that is just about as good as any other for
a fraction of the retail price, and it’s not that difficult! This is not a sales
pitch, this guide is FREE its all below.
There is also a great deal of flexibility when you design and build your own
machine. You will be able to customize your machine to fit you needs best.
Not to big, not to small, just right.
There are many reasons people want to build their own homemade CNC
router. It’s usually because we simply can’t afford to buy one off the shelf
and that’s as good of a reason as any other. Or you may be like me and
enjoy working with your hand and creating something unique. You might
simply be in it for the learning experience. For me personally, I think it
was a little of both.
My Experience
When I first started to design and build my first homemade CNC router, I
had it all figured out in about a day. I had my design ready to go. Then as
I started to buy the parts, I did a little research. I found bits and pieces of
information here and there, but it just lead to more questions.
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Homemade CNC Router The Builders Guide (FREE!)
“Do I really need ball screws or will ACME screws work fine?”
“What kind of linear bearing is the best, and can I afford it?”
“How big of a motor do I need, and should I use steppers or servos?”
“Will this material flex too much over that span?”
Etc.
Luckily, some of my questions I could answer with my mechanical

engineering background. However, many of the problems I would
encounter could not be “calculated”. I just needed someone with
experience and information on the subject.
So I researched the internet. The information available is scattered and

hard to come by, and how do I know if it’s valid. Most of the answers to
my questions came through reading hundreds and hundreds of threads like
CNCzone.com. Which is a rood resource. I would post my questions and
wait for people who already have built a homemade CNC router to
hopefully give me a good answer.
Of course I would get many answers to my questions from different

people, many of which contradicted each other. Then I’d have to read
though a thread where people were bickering back and forth. Of course
then I would have to research further to find out which answers were
worth while and which ones were garbage.
Every time I had a question that I didn’t know, I would have to go through
the same process. A lot of this was due to the fact I was on a budget and
wanted the best design my money could buy. Which is the same situation
many people building a homemade CNC router are in?
CNC router kits and plans

Yes, there are homemade CNC router kits available, but I have yet to see
one that gives any explanation as to what you are actually doing. It just
says “do these things” and you are supposed to follow directions. But what
if you do not have the parts available? Or you want your design to vary
slightly. Then you are left to fend for your self.
Maybe you don’t want to design your own, but still want to build your own.
That’s where the kits and plans help you most, like the CNC router kits at
www.solsylva.com . Plans are good for what they are, they are
instructions.
There are a lot of them out there and how do you know which one is the
right one. No matter how good the instructions are, if it’s a bad design it
WILL be a bad machine.
That is why you need to be educated as to what you are building and what
each part does!
This Guide
This is where this guide will help you. After designing and building several
of my own homemade CNC routers, I would like to share the knowledge
from my experiences, good and bad. I think it’s sad that this information
isn’t out there, and I DON”T think it should cost you anything.
This guide aims to keep you for making some of the same mistakes that I

made costing me precious time, money, and frustration.
We will walk through ever component down to the bolts, looking at

advantages and disadvantages of every type of each component. I will
discuss every aspect of designing and building your own homemade CNC
router. It will take you through the mechanics to software and everything
in between. If you still want to use a homemade CNC router plan or kit,
you can find CNC router plans here. Keep in mind, homemade CNC Router
plans offer little in the way of explaining concepts. This often leads to a
"sloppy" design or unsatisfactory machine performance. That is why I
suggest I you read through this guide first.
By the end, you should be talking CNC like a pro! This will give you a
real heads up when you go to build and design your homemade CNC
router. Regardless if you are using your plans or someone else's.
LET’S GET STARTED
Step 1: Key Design Decisions

This section covers the following:
Identifying the right design for you
Required cutting area
Space availability
Materials
Tolerances
Constructing Methods
Available tools
Budget
Step 2: The Base and X-axis Frame

Designing and Building the main base or x-axis base
A breakdown of different designs
Fully Supported Frames
Partially Supported Frames
etc.
STEP 3: The Y- Axis Gantry Design

Designing and Building the Y-axis Gantry
A breakdown of different designs
Forces and Moments on the Gantry
Do's and Don't
etc.
STEP 4: The Z- Axis Assembly Design

Designing and Building the Z-axis Assembly
Forces and Moments on the Z-axis Assembly
Linear rail/rods and bearing spacing
The Plunge arm Design
etc.

STEP 5: The Liniear Motion System

Detailed Overview of linear motion systems
Choosing the right system for your machine
Designing and building your own
Linear Shaft and bushings
Linear Rails and Guide Blocks
etc.
STEP 6: Mechanical Drive Components

This section covers the following topics:
Detailed overview of the drive components
Choosing the right components for your design
Stepper and Servo motors
Lead screws and ball screws
Drive nuts
Radial and thrust Bearings
Motor coupling and mounting
Direct drive vs. Geared
Rack and Pinions
Lead screw motor sizing
etc.
STEP 7: The Cutting Table design

The Cutting table designs overview
T-slot Table
Vacuum Table
Perforated cutting bed
The Cutaway bed
Designing and Building your own
etc.
STEP 8: The Spindle Options

CNC Spindles overview
Types and features
Pricing and costs
Mounting and cooling options
Coolant systems
Building your own
How to calculate chip load and cutting force
How to find optimal feed rates
etc.

STEP 9: The Electronics

CNC Electronics overview
The Control panel
Wiring and Fusing
Buttons and switches
MPG's and Jog wheels
Power Supplies
etc.
STEP 10: The CNC Controller options

The CNC Controller overview
Controller selection
Options available
Closed loop vs. Open loop systems
Best priced controllers
Building your own from scratch
etc.
STEP 11: Selecting the Software

The CNC related Software overview
What software will I need
CAM software
CAD software
NC Controller Software
Best choices
Free ware
etc.
Go to Homepage from the Homemade CNC router guide

CNC Plans ~Solsylva Home Page~
. CNC Router Plans
Plans Home Page
Plans for low cost

CNC machines
The tables were

designed to be:
● Inexpensive
to build
● Simple to
assemble
● Accurate
for the cost
Table parts
Primarily off-the- Rack and Pinion or Leadscrew
shelf from home 24 x 48 Inch Cutting Area
centers and department stores.
Part descriptions and sources for the other components
are provided in the plans.
This site gives a list of software, stepper and drive
suppliers.
Manuals There are two plan books.

One manual is for the single table shown above. This
manual covers a variety of options including rack and
pinion and/or leadscrews for the X and Y axes.
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Dual Leadscrew Table

25 x 37 Inch ( 640 x 950 mm) Cutting Area
The other manual includes plans for the 5 machines
shown below.
Both plan sets include hundreds of images and

dimensioned CAD drawings, with step by step written
instructions.
All machines were designed around the drive, stepper

and power supply packages sold by Xylotex and
HobbyCNC.
These cost $250 to $600 depending on the desired
features.
Tables' cost (Not

including the
above drive
packages)
Fixed gantry table:
Less than $100
Smaller blue
tables: Less than
$250
Belt drive, and
rack and pinion
tables: Less than
$600 and up Belt Drive Table
27.5 x 64 Inch Cutting Area
depending on the
components used.
Cutting areas
Belt Drive Table X 64" Y 27.5" Z 7"
Rack/Leadscrew Table X 48" Y 24" Z 8"
Dual Leadscrew Table X 37.5" Y 25.5" Z 6.5"

Small Blue Tables X 20" Y 17.5" Z 4"

Fixed Gantry Table X 13" Y 13" Z 5"
Footprint Size
Belt Drive Table 3'
x 6'
Rack and Pinion
Table 3' x 5'
Dual Leadscrew
Table 36" x 49"
Small Blue Tables
31" x 33.5"
Fixed Gantry
Table: 18" x 25"
Fixed Gantry Table
13 x 13 Inch Cutting Area Accuracy Very
good for the cost. Pictures are worth thousands of
words.
Stepper Size 200 oz.in. for the 13" x 13" and 17 x 20

inch prototypes.
. . . 269 to 425 oz.in. for the 25 x 37 inch prototype,
the Belt Drive table and the Rack/Leadscrew table.
Speed 35+ inches per minute rapid, 30 ipm cuts on

the small tables, and up to 300+ ipm rapids on the
rack and belt drive tables.
The machines were all designed to use the

stepper and drive systems from Xylotex and
HobbyCNC. The recommended software is
Mach3 or TurboCNC.
These suppliers work with the Do It Yourself
market, and supply documentation and help
forums for their products.

These are
all real
machines
that have
been built
and tested
in this shop.
Small Dual Leadscrew Table
All of the 17 x 20 Cutting Area
machines were designed around standard sizes of
lumber and hardware store components. This keeps
construction simple and prices low.
Suppliers for the other parts, such as belts and pulleys,
are listed in the manuals.
Though the
machines are
similar, each
was designed to
meet specific
goals. The
smaller
machines use a
Small Overhead Leadscrew Table
minimum of
17 x 20 Cutting Area components,
are
inexpensive, and are simple to build.
The large machines were designed to move quickly

with a larger cutting area.
The Rack and Pinion/Leadscrew machine is designed

to carry a full sized router.
It can use racks or leadscrews on the X and Y axes;
the plans address the multiple versions.
Back to the top

CNC Router Plans: Download free CNC router plans
CNC Router Plans

CNC router plans are a great
starting point for anyone wanting to
build a CNC router. They give
valuable insight on how these
machines work. Many of us are
very visual people and it helps to
see examples of these machines
laid out on paper. Some plans are
thorough enough to act as a
complete blueprint from start to
finish while others only offer bits of
information.
You may prefer to design and build

your own machine. However, CNC router plans can still be a valuable
resource. Plans can give you great ideas. You may like the linear motion
system on one design but prefer the cutting bed design on another. They
may also uncover aspects of your design that may or may not work.
This is why we want to provide you with as many free plans and blueprints
as possible. There several companies devoted to providing plans you can
buy. Some are worth while, and others are not. At the moment, we are
working on several free plans complete with pictures, 3D and 2D
downloads, and even videos.
Even if you decide to use plans, we strongly suggest you read through the
Builder’s Guide There you will find in depth information regarding all the
components and their function.
For now, feel free to check out the plans below. These designs have been
tested and built by many CNC router enthusiasts.
CNC Router Plans Download Center
“JGRO’s” Design
This design is very popular among the DIY

CNC router community. This set of plans is
very detailed and contains dimensions on all
parts. This is a mobile gantry type designed
around a wood or MDF construction utilizing
skate bearings for the linear motion system.
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CNC Router Plans: Download free CNC router plans
This build can be very sturdy if built correctly. The set of plans also
contains a complete BOM (bill of materials).
Download JGRO’s Design in PDF format
Download JGRO’s Design in DXF format
Please note, that by downloading this plan, you are under the
agreement that they are not to be resold or used for commercial
purpose. Personal use ONLY!
“Joe’s 2006 R-1” Design
This is another very popular design. This

design is also a mobile gantry CNC router,
designed around a wood or MDF structure.
The linear motion system is also design
around skate bearings. However, the x-
axis employs dual rods and each side
instead of one. This design is very
ergonomic looking and employs anti-
torsion framing and slanted gantry side
arms to account for CG location.
This set of plans are in a 3D format which can be viewed, rotated, and
dimensioned using a free E-drawing viewer that you may download here.
Download JOE’s 2006 design in EASM format
Download the free EASM viewer here
Please note, that by downloading this plan, you are under the
agreement that they are not to be resold or used for commercial
purpose. Personal use ONLY!
MORE PLANS ARE COMING VERY SOON!!!!
If you have any question or would like to submit a set of your own CNC
router plans to be reviewed and posted, feel free to contact us.
Return to Homepage from CNC Router Plans
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The Hobby CNC Router: Builders Guide Step 1
Building a Hobby CNC Router

Step 1
As we discussed earlier,
there are numerous
advantages to designing
and building a hobby
CNC router. Designing
and building any machine
has the potential of being
a good or bad
experience. This is also
the case wen designing
and building a CNC
router.
The concepts of CNC

routers are fairly straight
forward, but you can quickly become overwhelmed in the process. Don’t
let this stand in the way.
That’s why this guide is here; to keep you from making mistakes that
might cost you time, money, and performance.
Although this guide is primarily focusing on hobby CNC routers, the

concepts may be applies to most any CNC linear motion system. For
example, you could use these same concepts to build a CNC plasma cutter.
If you are thinking of building your own machine, there is a good chance
you already have a design in mind. This is to be expected. After all, it’s
your machine. This guide does not aim to subtract from any of your ideas
but rather supplement your project with valuable information. I wish that I
had known a lot of this stuff before my first machine. It would have saved
me many headaches and money.
One last comment before we jump in head first. I am assuming you know
some very CNC basics, such as what CNC means etc. If you do not, then
you may wish to start at the CNC router Basics.
Let’s Get Started:
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1) Choosing your design

There are two primary styles of the hobby CNC router. This may seem
contradictory as every design is unique. However, there are two overall
designs types that you will encounter.
1) Stationary Gantry, Mobile bed

2) Mobile Gantry, stationary bed
Here you can see an example of each.
Let’s take a look at these two designs in detail.
The Mobile bed

This type of design is less prominent in the hobby CNC router community
than the mobile gantry design. However, there are reasons for choosing
the mobile bed design type. The mobile bed design is typically found on
smaller CNC machines such as a PCB or engraving machines. For this size
machine, the mobile bed design works well.

Another advantage of this design is that creating a sturdy gantry that will
not flex under load is much easier. This is because the gantry is stationary
and does not have to be light or conform to a certain size to fit your linear
bearings. With a mobile gantry, you must take into consideration the
weight of the gantry itself and the size, in regards to the linear bearings on
the x axis. With the mobile bed design, the gantry itself does not move,
therefore you have more breathing room in regards to the weight, size,
and structural design.
There are disadvantages with this type of design as well. As the length of
the x-axis increases the mobile bed design become less efficient.
If you are unfamiliar with the x, y, and z, axis notation, take a look at the
picture below labeling each. As we discuss the hobby CNC router, the x, y,
and z axis will always be this configuration.
With the mobile bed design, as you increase the x axis length your design
become less efficient due to the size of the bed. When you see a mobile
bed design employed on a hobby CNC router, the total x axis travel is
usually between 12-36 inches. I have seen larger, however the design
becomes increasingly complicated. If you made an extended x axis with a
mobile bed, the actual size of the object you could cut would still be
relatively small because the bed itself is still relatively small.
As a side note, the y and z axis usually changes very little between the
mobile bed and mobile gantry designs.
In conclusion, the mobile bed design is for you if you want a smaller
machine that is compact and relatively easy to build, offering rigid a gantry
but limiting on the overall size. Now let’s look at the mobile gantry.
The Mobile Gantry

The mobile gantry design accounts for probably 95% of the hobby CNC
routers. This design type is similar to the mobile bed except the whole
gantry moves along the x axis. This is advantageous because the overall
size virtually limitless.
It can be tricky to design a gantry that is light enough for your design and
still offer little flex under load. Not to mention, you must design it to be
mobile and fit some sort of linear bearing assembly.
The mobile gantry design is very versatile. If you are building anything
other than a small machine, I suggest this be your design choice. Of
course, we will go into greater detail on both designs later.

For now, you need to decide which design will fit your needs best. Now lets
move on to some other considerations.
2) The Cutting Area

The cutting area is the total distance the machine can cut along each axis.
Keep in mind, this is one of those decisions that is likely to change as you
search for parts. The linear bearings will probably be you primary
restrictions. After all, most of us want as big of a machine as we can get
away with. We will look at sizing in more depth later when we look at the
structural considerations.
Right now it’s a good idea to have an idea of the size of piece you want to
be able to cut. Later you may find that you are limited to a certain size due
to materials and parts. For example, some linear systems and materials
may flex excessively over a certain span, which could also limit the cutting
area.
The cutting area is also called the machine travel for each axis. The travel
is not the overall machine size, which brings us to our next consideration.
3) The Machine Size

Most of us want as big of a machine as we can get, however, you may be
limited due to shop space or some other factor. So if you have a machine
footprint limitation, keep this in mind as you design your machine. You do
not want to have wasted space in your hobby CNC router design. For
example, if your limitation is 36”x24”, then your ideal travel for that
machine is 36”x24”. Although, it is unlikely you will achieve the maximum
travel for your machine size, working towards getting as much travel as
possible is worth the effort.
4) The Machine Tolerance

One of the most important considerations when designing or building a
hobby CNC router is the accuracy and precision of the machine. Don’t get
accuracy and precision confused. Take a look at the illustration below.
You want to design and build your machine to hold a certain accuracy and
precision. For example, you machine may be able to cut a piece that is
within .0001 of an inch but the repeatability may be .1 inch.
Many people design and build a hobby CNC router and live with the results,
or keep adjusting to get the results they want. However, there are ways to
design machine to hold a certain tolerance. For example, if you know you
only need a tolerance of .01 inch and you know that all you will ever need,

you can save a lot of money by designing for that requirement.
On the other hand, if you want a machine to hold a tolerance of .0001 inch
repeatable, then there are some design requirements that must be met to
get the required performance.
Typical hobby CNC routers hold a tolerance of .001 to .0001 inch.

However, this is up to you. At this point all you need to do is have an idea
as to what kind of tolerance you require. Keep in mind the larger the
machine, the more costly it is to hold tight tolerances.
5) Materials and Tools

The tools and materials can define your design almost as much as any
other factor. Hobby CNC routers are constructed from all types of
materials. I have seen machines made out of plastic, wood, MDF,
aluminum, steel, and others.
The material from which you construct your machine should be based on 3
criteria, budget, tools you have to work with, and materials available. It is
hard to say which material is best as it varies with the design. I have seen
machines made from MDF that hold better tolerances than those
constructed of solid metal.
That is why it is crucial to choose your materials ahead of time. Of course,

your hobby CNC router will probably integrate many materials. However,
you will have a certain material that will make up the bulk of your
machine. The right design for a wood machine is not the right design for
an aluminum or steel machine.
The tools you have may also define the type of material you must use. If
you do not have access to a milling machine or heavy metalworking
equipment, then it may be hard to build your design correctly out of metal.
This will eventually lead to a poor overall machine.
On a piece of paper right down all the tools you have to work with, and
then think of the material you can use. Keep in mind, I have seen
machines built with as little as a drill motor and a hand saw. So there is no
need to think that because you have limited tools you can not create a
hobby CNC router. A popular method is to build a basic CNC router and
then use that to build a nicer one. This method works well if you have
limited tools. Do not take on a job that you do not have the tools for.
We will look at properties of material later. There we will cover how to

calculate deflection and other mathematical models with relative ease. This
will help you design your machine to the load ratings you specify.
6) Budget
Last but not least is the
budget. For most of us, this
is the one factor that will
determine many of our
decisions. After all, if we had
the money, we would just
buy one. Well maybe we
would just buy really nice
parts and bolt them

together. I suggest you have

an overall budget in mind
and keep track of how much
you spend. Below you will find an excel spreadsheet that you may
download.
It breaks down all the components of a hobby CNC router and parts you
will need. This will help you stay organized and see where you should
spend the bulk of your money. I also included information on what you
should expect to pay. As a warning, the bulk of your budget should go
towards the linear motions system and the drive system. We will cover this
in greater detail in later steps.
Summary of Step 1
So by now you should have the following decisions made or understand

them at least.
1) Mobile bed or mobile gantry

2) Required cutting area
3) Machine size requirements
4) Tolerance requirements
5) Materials and Tools
6) Budget
Now that we have the major decisions worked out, let con Building a
hobby CNC router Step 2
View and Download a Sample Expense sheet
Back to the Builders Guide Index
Homepage

Build your own CNC router Step 2: The frame
Build your own CNC router Step 2

The Frame and Base
When you design and build your
own CNC router, one of the first
considerations is the base and
frame. Although another practice
is to actually design from the top
down, but well start at the bottom
and work our way up.
The Base and Frame Overview

The base and frame of a CNC
router is the main structural
element of your machine.The base
and frame is what holds
everything together. This is what
will determine your motor
placement and lead screw
placement along with everything else.
The frame and base design will be determined partially by the materials and
supplies that you have, the number of lead screws lead screws , and motors your
budget allow etc. However, we need to become familiar with different designs so
that you may buy parts that fit your design.
If you can not find or can’t afford the parts for the design you would like. Then it’s
back to the drawing board to optimize the design for the materials you do have.
This will likely happen a lot when you build your own CNC router.
When you look at other homemade CNC router designs, you may notice that
almost ever unit is different. Although this is true, you can break down these
designs into categories.
The X-Axis Base and Frame

When you build your own CNC router, the X-axis frame should also act as the base
for the machine as the X-axis should be the axis closest to the ground. This
portion of the machine will perform 3 primary tasks.
1) Act as the base for the machine

2) Support the X axis linear motion system
3) Support the cutting table
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Lets look at the most common designs for the base.
Fully Supported Frame

The fully supported base is one of the best designs and is the design used on most
industrial or professional routers.
The image above shows only the base and does not show the gantry. Pay no
attention to the type of linear bearings.
The fully supported design means that both the Y and X axis may rest on the floor
or some other structure. There is nothing connecting the gantry across the Y-axis.
This allows for a very sturdy design and is not susceptible to the cutting table or
the structure itself flexing under its own or external weight.
In order for this system to flex or deform, the material itself would need to
compress.
Keep in mind we are not talking about massive amounts of flex. This all ties back
in to the Step 1 on how to build your own CNC router. Where you should already
have some idea as to the desired precisions and accuracy you want your machine
to hold. A deformation of 0.001” is acceptable if you only expect 0.010” accuracy
from your machine.
There are drawbacks with this design, the cost. You will need and extra lead
screw, lead nut, and motor. You may employ a fully supported frame design with
one motor using a pulley and belt system, but you will need to make sure you
motor is up to the task. We will cover how to calculate that in the CNC drive
system section. With this design you can get away with a lighter material as it will
be supported against the ground or some other structure. Now let’s look at
another design.

Fully Supported Frame vs. Fully Supported Bearing Rods/Rails
When we say “fully supported” in this section, we mean that there is nothing
obstructing sweeping across that axis during operation.
Later we will discuss fully and end supported linear bearing systems, but that is
not the focus in this section. We are focusing on the frame itself.
It is possible to have a fully supported linear bearing system and not have a fully
supported frame. You can see this in the Solsyva design below.
Partially Supported X-axis Fully Supported Y-axis Frame
The more common design with most hobby CNC routers out there is the partially
supported X or Y-axis.
The
image above illustrates a supported Y-axis and a end supported X-axis frame. This
is the most common design.
The gantry would have an undercarriage that would connect the gantry to the lead
screw. With this setup you could have a “fully supported” linear rails or rods

setup. . However, the rods or rails would still be able to flex with the frame itself.
You may only support the frame on the ends since there must be clearance
between the ground and the frame to allow the gantry undercarriage to move
along the X-axis. In the image above, the Y-axis would be considered supported
since you could have a frame that would not interfere with the gantry movement.
The frame across the Y-axis would prevent flexing for that axis. This would mean
the cutting bed would be very rigid in the Y-axis but could flex or deform along the
X-axis.
With the design above, even if the frame were made of solid aluminum measuring
1-1/2’’ by 4-1/2’’ and the X-axis span were 60 inches, the frame would “sag” .01
inches in the center, just under its own weight. That does not include the weight
of the gantry or anything else.
You can understand that this would be an issue if I’m trying to design a machine
to hole a tolerance of 0.001’’ in the Z-axis. It is true that the machine would flex
as a whole and could be compensated. However, the machine could vibrate and
bounce when cutting creating lines in the work. If your machine has a relatively
small X-axis span, this design works well and is probably the easiest to setup.
There are other solutions.
Partially Supported Y- axis Fully Supported X-axis
Let’s say I have only one motor and lead screw for the X-axis and still wish to
maintain a high tolerance on my machine. I could move the Y-axis gantry
assembly inside the frame which would allow me to fully support the X-axis
because the gantry would not cut under the X-axis frame. However in that
situation, the Y-axis frame would not be fully supported.

As you can see in this design, the longer X-axis is fully supported (on the ground),
however the gantry would cut through any frame in the Y-axis inside the cutting
area.
This means that no matter how much weight I put on the gantry or cutting table
(not pictured), the X-axis frame would only deform if the material itself deformed.
With this design, the cutting bed would need to have its own frame and could
“sag” in the center. However, he machine itself would be constant and once the
cutting bed is installed, you could true the cutting table surface by plain the
surface with the machine.
The cutting bed would then be true to the machine.
When you design or build your own CNC router, you need to decide which is more
important. Have the machine remain constant or have the cutting bed and the
machine flex together. We will cover this more when we discuss the cutting bed.
Alternatives
There are other alternatives when you build or design your own CNC router. One
way to obtain a fully supported router is to do away with the gantry undercarriage
and have the lead screw connect at the top of the gantry or have 2 lead screws
high on each side. You may see this application in the Solsyva designs. They offer
these blueprints on how to build your own CNC router.
However, with a single lead screw up high above the gantry, it makes access to
the cutting bed somewhat difficult. This design works well for smaller machines
that you wish to be mobile. For instance, a CNC router designed to carve shapes
on wood flooring.

The Mobile bed design
The mobile
bed or
movable bed
design
approaches the CNC router frame differently. With a mobile bed CNC router, like
the one pictured above, you may have a fully supported frame and bearing system
for the X-axis without compromising any structural framing.
With this design you also only require one motor and lead screw for the X-axis.
Because the lead screw attaches to the bed itself and there is no undercarriage for
the gantry, the bearings and frame would not be in the way. This is advantageous
because if you want design and build your own CNC router, the chances are you
want to save as much money as possible.
The bed must also only support its weight and the weight of the material you will
be cutting. It does not hold the weight of the gantry itself. However, this design
may be inefficient for larger designs as we discussed in step one.
Other Considerations
When you design and build your own CNC router, the material you use to
construct the frame will play a big role in the design of the frame.
Different materials will deform differently. Keep the material consideration in mind
as you choose a frame design. Most popular materials are:
1) MDF
2) Plywood
3) Aluminum Stock
4) 80/20 Structural aluminum.

5) Steel
Keep the materials in mind as you think of how to build your CNC router.
In later sections of this guide we will discuss bearing placement, lead screw and
motor placement, and other design features. All of which should be considered
when you build your own CNC router.
For now just review and consider your options for the base and X-axis. When you
design or build your own CNC router, you may decide to employ some elements
from each design.
If you try to rush the process and forget to consider these design issues when you
build your own CNC router, then you may be setting yourself back.
Before you set anything in stone, let’s take a look at the Y-axis gantry and the Z-
axis frame assemblies.
Go back to Step 1: How to build a CNC router
Step 3: Designing and Building the Y-axis and Z-axis Frame
Homepage from how to build your own CNC router
We add and edit this information on how to design and build your own CNC router.
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Do it yourself CNC router: Design Considerations, the Gantry
The "Do It Yourself CNC router"

The Gantry Design Considerations
Now that we have looked at the X-axis frame
designs and considerations in a do it yourself
CNC router design, let’s look at the Y-axis
gantry assembly.
The gantry design is the most popular design in

the do it yourself CNC router community. It is
popular for a reason, it works. When you build
a CNC router, it is important to keep the design
trade offs in mind. No matter your budget, the
parts you have, or the material you use, there
is a design that is best for you.
The gantry design is a proven design for "do it yourself CNC routers." However, there
are still many things that you should be aware of.
From a design standpoint, you want your gantry to be stable and balanced. Design the
CNC gantry to meet the forces that it will encounter. This will prevent excess stress and
strain on you bearings, lead screw, motor, etc.
In order for you to be able to design and build your gantry to meet the required forces,
you first need to identify and understand the forces involved.
Let’s take a look at the forces evolved with a do it yourself CNC router gantry.
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The above image illustrates a side view of a typical do it youself CNC router gantry.
Take a minute to look over the image, there is a lot there. Now let’s discuss what is
happening. It may seem confusing at first but it’s rather simple once you understand
what is taking place. We will discuss.
Center of gravity/mass
Forces
Moment
Let quickly identify the labels above:
D1 = the distance between the cutting tool (the router bit) and the center between the

two Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails (D3).
D2 = distance between lead screw/ linear bearings and the bottom Y-axis linear
bearing rail/rod.
D3 = distance between the lower and upper Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails.
D4= distance between the 2 linear bearings that sit on the X-axis linear bearing rods/
rails.
Now we will look at the forces evolved.
The Technical Explanation: CNC Router Forces

(scroll down for the short Version)
The image above illustrates a gantry that is moving from left to right as you look at the
screen. It is being pulled or pushed by the CNC drive system at the bottom. Now, the
router spindle at the bottom. Now, the router spindle is lowered and it starts cutting.
The cutting action apposes the movement of the gantry resulting in a cutting force. The
cutting force varies according to the gantry acceleration, spindle RPM, and the chip
load. The chip load depends on the bit you use, the RPM, and the material. We will get
into these details when we discuss the CNC router spindle. For now just know you have
a cutting force apposing the movement of the gantry.
Just so you know, a force is equal to mass of multiplied by its acceleration. The units of
force are lb-f (pounds of force) in the English system or the Newton in the SI system.
The cutting force results in a moment, which is moment A in the figure above. A
moment results when you have a force applied at a distance. A moment has units of lbf-
in or N-m, we usually call a moment force torque.
Moment A, in the image above, is the result of the cutting force being applied at the
distance D1.
Moment A = D1 x Cutting force
Example:
If the distance D1= 12 inches and the cutting force is 5 lb of force. Then the Moment A
would be 5lb x 1ft = 5 ft lb of force. ( I converted 12 inches to 1 foot) You can see that
even if the cutting force remains the same, the longer the distance of D1 the larger the
moment will be.
Moving on, the Moment A results in 2 forces on the Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails.
These resulting forces are forces A and B in the figure above. Force A and Force B are
equal to each other Force A = Force B.
Force A = Moment A divided by 2 divided by ½ of D3 this equals to
Force A = Force B = Moment A / D3
You can see that as the vertical distance between the two linear rods/rails (for the Y-
axis linear bearings) grows, the resulting forces A and B shrink which is good. Why is
this good? It reduces the amount of centralized torque that is on the gantry itself.

Moment B will decrees as force A decreases.
Moment B = D2 x Force A
Moment B is what causes the whole gantry to rock or want to rotate due to the cutting
force. This is not a good thing. You want to decrease Moment B as much as possible.
Why?
You want to make have equal amounts of force on your set of linear bearings as
possible. This will reduce deformation and chatter in your machine.
There are two ways to reduce Moment B.
1) Reduce Force A
2) Reduce the D3
A well designed machine keeps force C and force D to be as equal as possible. And that
is the goal.
Force C and D are the sum of the weight of the machine and resulting forces that occur
do to moment B.
We also need to consider the weight of the gantry and try and calculate or guess where
the center of gravity will be and keep that directly in the center between the two
separated bearings (½ D4). The center of gravity is the point at which the machine
would balance.
That is why you often see the gantry upright side arms slanted backwards an a do it
yourself CNC router. This compensated for the weight of the spindle which hangs our
over the Y-axis linear bearings. When you build a do it yourself CNC router, you want
the center of gravity of the whole gantry assembly to be directly between the two
linear bearings. Or if you have a stationary gantry and a mobile bed, you want center
of gravity to be in the center of the bottom of you gantry side arms.
This assures that your machine is balanced and could stand own its own. This applies
equal load on your bearings.
The short answer (summary)
When you design or build a do it yourself CNC router, keep the following in mind:
Try and keep the distance between the X-axis lead screw and linear bearings, as close
as possible to the bottom Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails. Or as close to the center
distance between the top and bottom Y-axis linear rods/rails. (Minimize D2)
Keep the spindle plunge arm on the Z-axis assembly as short as possible and make
that arm out of rigid material to prevent flexing. A normal Z-axis arm travel is
anywhere from 3 to 6 inches. (Minimize D1)
Calculate or estimate where the center of gravity of the gantry will be located, including
the spindle. Design your gantry side arms to compensate and place the center of
gravity (CG) between the front and back X-axis linear bearings per arm. (CG should be
located at ½ D4 and as close to X-axis lead screw as possible)
Maximize the distance between the upper and lower Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails but

still allow for clearance under the bottom rod/rail for your max Z travel. (Maximize D3)
Other considerations
A good gantry design is one of the most crucial factors for a quality do it yourself CNC
router. As with all DIY CNC routers, budget is a concern which means material are also
a concern. Try and visualize and estimate the forces evolved and make your do it
yourself CNC router design work with the materials you have.
If you would like a more thorough analysis you may consult us. We offer free
engineering design analysis of your machine. We can help you find:
Specific CG location
Material stress and strain analysis
Dynamic simulation of your machine
Material selection
And more
Remember, we will discuss more on the gantry design in later section. Topics such as
lead screw placement, motor placement, linear bearing attachments, etc. Which are all
important consideration with a do it yourself CNC router project.
Now let’s take a look at Step 4: the Z-axis assembly design for the do it yourself
CNC router.
Go to Homepage from do it yourself CNC router gantry design

Building a CNC Router Step 4: The Z-axis assembly
Building a CNC Router

Step 4: The Z-axis assembly
So far we have looked at the first three steps in building a CNC router
Step 1: Key Design Decisions Step 2: The Base and X-axis Frame
Step 3: The Y-axis Gantry Assembly
Now let’s look at the 4th step,
The Z-axis assembly
Below you can see two examples of Z-axis assemblies with the Y-Axis CNC Router Gantry in the
background.
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As with the previous discussions, when designing or building a CNC router it is important to consider the
forces that are evolved. That way, you can adjust your design and verify that it will meet your design
requirements . However, in order to design and build your machine to meet your requirements, you first
need to understand the forces evolved.
Forces on the Z- Axis Assembly

Let’s interpret the above image.
The following explains the dimensions:
D1 = the vertical distance between the upper and lower Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails.

D2 = the vertical distance between the upper and lower sets of Z-axis linear bearings.
D3 = the length of the spindle attachment plunge arm.
D4 = the width of the Z-axis assembly.
D5 = the horizontal distance between the Z-axis linear bearing rods/rails.
D6 = the thickness of the plunge arm
D7 = the distance between the cutting force (approx, tip of the cutting tool) and 1/2 D2.
Now that we understand what the dimensions are, let’s analyze the forces and moments.
Forces and Moments on the Z-Axis Assembly

Building a CNC router can be easy or hard. Some people over analyze and some people just build it and
see if it works. I think the best approach is a mix of the two methods. So let’s first try and understand
what is happening.
The above image illustrates an example of a Z-axis assembly shown in a front view and a side view. Look
at the front view and notice that the Z-axis assembly is moving to the right while it rides on the Y-axis
linear bearing rails/rods.
The plunge arm is at max Z travel and is cutting into a material as it moves from left to right. This
cutting action produces a cutting force that apposes the movement of the Z-axis assembly.
The cutting force is a variable of spindle RPMs, the number of flutes on the cutting tool, the feed rate,
and the material that is being cut. You can learn more on how to calculate cutting force here . When
building a CNC router an important decision to make is what types of material you would like to be able
to cut, which was covered in step 1.
For now, just understand that there is a force in the opposite direction than the Z-axis assembly is
moving. Now let’s see what happens because of this cutting force.
The cutting force creates a moment, which is illustrated in the image above as Moment A.
A moment is just a force that is applied at a distance. We covered moments in greater details in Step 3.
Moment A = D6 x Cutting Force.

Moment A torques the plunge arm in the opposing direction of the cutting force, which torques the whole
Z-axis assembly.
br> This moment results in resultant forces that are applied to

the Z-axis linear bearing rails/rods and the Z-axis linear
bearings themselves. (Yellow arrows)
As D5 and D2 increase in length, the resulting forces decrease. You can see that when you are designing
or building a CNC router, it is important to maximize the horizontal distance between the Z-axis linear
rails rails (D5), and the vertical distance between the Z- axis linear bearing blocks.
The Plunge Arm
D2 also has an effect while cutting along the X-axis. Take a look at the image to the bellow.
The cutting force causes another moment; Moment B.

Moment B is the result of the cutting force being multiplied by the distance between the cutting force and
½ D2.
This moment will apply resulting forces on the Z-axis bearings. As the distance between these bearings
(D2) increase, these forces will decrease. That is why it is best to maximize D2.
As a rule of thumb when building a CNC router, D2 should never be any less that half the length of the
plunge arm. Also, you want the thickness if the plunge arm (D6) to be thick enough to not flex under
your maximum cutting force.
The flex will depend on the maximum cutting force you are designing your machine around, the thickness
of the material (d6), plunge arm length (D3), and the material it is made of.
If you need help calculating your desired cutting force or the amount of deformation a certain material
and size will have, you may contact us We offer free design consultation and other engineering services.

Summary
Keep the following in mind when you design or build a CNC router:
Maximize D1, reduces the forces due to torque caused by the cutting force in the X-axis.
Maximize D2 reduces the forces due to torque caused by the cutting force in the X-axis.
Minimize D3, but still allow for your desired Z-axis travel.
Maximize D4, reduces the forces due to torque caused by the cutting force in the Y-axis.
Other Considerations
In later sections of the building a CNC router guide , we will discuss other features such as lead screws,
motor placement, linear bearings etc.
Don’t forget that you may contact us with any questions regarding CNC machines in general or your
design. We will try and help any way possible.
The motor mount that is used in the above image may be bought pre-fabricated from K2CNC.com for a
variety of router spindles.
Conclusion
So far we have looked at the first 4 steps when building a CNC router,
Step 1: Key Design Decisions
Step 2: The Base and X-axis Frame
Step 3: The Y-axis Gantry Assembly
Step 4: The Z-axis Assembly
Now let’s continue to one of the most important features when designing or building a CNC router
system, the linear motion system.
Building a CNC router Step 5: The linear Motion System

Homepage

CNC Linear motion: Everything you need to know
CNC Linear Motion Systems

The linear motion system plays a
vital role in any linear CNC
machine, and CNC routers are no
exception. Without these systems
coupled with a drive system, a CNC
router would be of little use.
The LM system is responsible for

three primary tasks.
1) Support Machine Components

2) Guide the machine in a precise
linear motion with minimal friction
3) Support secondary loads
(Torque, Lateral Loads, etc)
A LM system is composed of some type of linear bearing and the linear

bearing guides. There are a number of types of bearings and guides, each
with advantages and disadvantages. Because of the importance of this
system, it is vital for a buyer a builder to be knowledgeable about the LM
components.
For the Buyer

The linear motion system can make or break a machine. For people buying
new CNC routers today, there should be little concerns regarding these
components. The quality and performance of linear motion slides have
drastically improved over the last few years. Almost all of the new CNC
router machines are using quality linear bearing systems.
This holds true for mid-range to high-end models. . If you are buying
hobby CNC routers or low end machines, it is still important for you to be
able to identify quality systems. Some manufacturers do not specify what
types of components are installed and you should know how to identify
faulty systems.For those interested in buying a used system, you need to
know what types of linear system are installed and be able to identify
faults or at least know the right questions ask.
It can cost $10,000 or more to replace a full set of linear bearings
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(depending on the system). If the system is older, the companies may no

longer sell the parts. If you must replace a part you could be dead in the
water. So it is important to be able to identify the components, know what
faults to look for, and know whether or not the replacements are still in
production.
For the Builder

The LM system can be one of the most expensive and difficult features of a
machine. That is why it is imperative to get it right the first time. If you
are here following the step 3 in the builder's guide then I suggest your
read through all the sections and not just the section on building your own.
This guide will go through the many options you have for linear systems. It
will discuss advantages and disadvantages of each and also show you how
to build your own if you so choose. It will also include information on how
to mount rails, linear shafts, and much more, including money saving tips
and tricks. If you have any questions regarding LM systems, don’t hesitate
to contact us.
Sections
Linear Motion Systems Overview

This Section covers:
Categories of LM systems
Rating and Terminology
How LM systems work
Etc.
Rails and Guide Blocks

How rails and guide blocks work
Terminology
Types and features
Manufacturers
Where to Buy and Buying Tips
Etc.
Rods and Bushings

How rods and bushings work
Supported and Unsupported shaft
Shaft types and features
Plain and ball bearing bushings
Manufacturers
Etc.
V-Groove Wheels and Track Rollers

How V-groove wheels and track rollers work
Types and features
Manufacturers

Etc.
Homemade Linear Motion Systems

Homemade LM systems overview
“Skate bearing” systems
Plain Bearing systems
Linear Surfaces
Mounting Linear bearing rails
Linear Rods
Other Linear Bearing Systems
Etc.
The Builder's Guide Step 6
Homepage

CNC Drive Components: Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, Leadscrews Etc.
Your Guide to
CNC Drive Components
So what are CNC drive
components?
The drive components are the
mechanical components that "drive"
the CNC machine along its axis. The
most common components
associated with a drive system, are
the motor and lead or ball screw.
The whole idea of a drive system is
to convert controlled rotary motion
to controlled linear motion with the
help of a CNC Controller .
The idea of a CNC drive system is a

fairly simple one. However, the
actual mechanics evolved can be
complicated. This is where many
"DIY CNC'ers" get lost. The drive system is a direct correlation to the
machines capabilities.
By understanding the CNC drive system you have a much better

understanding of a CNC machine. Just by changing a few components you
can control the machines cutting speed, cutting force, precisions, and
accuracy; which should be taken into consideration.
If you are buying a CNC machine, it is best to know what type of drive
components are installed. For example, if someone quotes a precision
of .0001 inch and then informs you they have standard ACME screws and
no anti-backlash nut installed, then they are probably over stating the
machines capabilities.
Again, this is especially true if you are buying a used machine. You need to
know what kind of components are installed, how much wear they have,
and could you buy replacement parts if needed.
What will this guide do?

This guide offers detailed information on every component that makes up a
CNC drive system. If you are building a CNC router, we will discuss money
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saving tips and options as well as assembly. If you are interested in Buying
CNC drive parts , then visit our store or take a look at our links page.
There you will find a list of recommended places to buy each part.
1. Stepper Motors and Servo Motors

A CNC machine wouldn't be a CNC machine without some sort of motor.
Stepper motors or Servo motors both perform the same task, which is take
in electrical power and convert it to rotational motion. Think of the motors
as the workhorse for the machine, however, they need to be told what to
do, which is the job of the CNC controller. This section will take you though
the ins and outs of CNC motors.
2. Leadscrews and Ballscrews

The first step to converting the rotational motion supplies by the motors to
linear motion, is the lead screw or ball screw. With the help of a CNC drive
nut, you can have a great amount of linear force with little torque. Just like
the jack on your car. Try to lift your 2000 lb vehicle without the aid or your
jack and see how far you get. However, there are many different types of
leads crews and ball screws. This guide will walk you through the pros and
cons of each type and also discuss alternative solutions for CNC machines
on a budget.
3. CNC Drive Nuts

The drive nut is the one link between the lead or ballscrew and the actual
machine. Therefore it is often discussed in direct relation with the
leadscrews. However, you may have the nicest system money can buy and
less than par drive nuts, and not be able to hold a tolerance of .01 inch.
That is why I am devoting a full section to drive nuts. This one component
will make or break your machine. We will discuss the types of drive nut,
backlash and much more. If you are building a CNC router, you MUST read
this section. The CNC drive system is a vital part of your machine. I will
discuss how to obtain some very nice anti-backlash nuts for very cheap.
4. Rack and pinion

Rack and pinions are less pronoun than their leadscrew counterparts.
However, there are some applications where it is the only solution so that
close tolerances can still be held. Many hobby CNC'ers completely overlook
this option, primarily because of cost. However, there are ways to come
out even cheaper than alternative solutions.
4. Radial, Thrust bearing and Couplers

This section covers some of the minor components in a CNC drive system.
Things such as radial and thrust bearings for leadscrews and and shaft
couplers. Although, these are "minor" pieces in the whole system, they still
play a vital role. After all, a machine is only as good as it weakest link. If
you are buying a CNC router then you have nothing to worry about as
these parts are usually all the same. However, if you are building a CNC
machine, this section will cover vital information that will save major
headaches down the path.
5.Direct drive vs. Geared or Pulley Systems

There are two main ways of coupling your electric motor to the other CNC

drive components. The first being direct drive via use of a anti-backlash
shaft coupler discussed above, and secondly, the use of either pulleys or
gears. We will cover the reasons for having each and also the pros and
cons as usual. This is another one of those things that people often
overlook.
Continue to The Builders Guide STEP 5: The X, Y, and Z axis
Homepage

The CNC Router Table Top, Where the magic happens
The CNC Router Table Top

The CNC router table
top is where the
cutting magic
happens. The table
top, also called the
cutting bed, can make
the life of a CNC
router operator
enjoyable or a
nightmare.
Many times when

buying a CNC router,
the type of table top is often overlooked or the significance
underestimated. I assure you there is a design that will fit your needs best.
For example, if you are in the prototyping business, you will probably be
working with all kinds of materials and shapes. This would probably push
you towards a T-slot style, which offers numerous clamping options. On
the other hand, you might produce the same type of product on a daily
basis which would push you towards a different style.
On higher end CNC router router tables now days, you may find a
combination of different types of cutting table tops. However, it is best to
be knowledgeable about what kind of CNC router table will be best for you.
If you are building your own CNC router , your options are limited unless
your budget allows. However, there is still a lot of material to be covered
regarding the cutting board. This information should be very helpful to
your design.
The T-Slot table top
The T-slot table is often seen on traditional CNC milling machines.

However, these are usually made of tooling steel and are extremely heavy.
The T-slot tables found on CNC routers are usually made of extruded
aluminum. There are many advantages to the T-slot type table. However
this style can be very...
The Vacuum table top
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The CNC Router Table Top, Where the magic happens
The vacuum style CNC router table top is often found on higher end
models. They can be very useful for many applications. However, there are
drawbacks. For example the...
The Perforated table top

Similar to the vacuum table in appearance, the perforated table top is
simple yet affective. Much cheaper than a T-slot style bed, yet offers
similar performance. The perforated table offers a lot as far as...
The "Disposable" table top

The "The "Disposable" table top is actually one of my favorites. Especially
if you are new to operating a CNC router. This table style, usually
composed of one or two sheets of high density MDF board, are very useful
even if you have some other table top installed. I can't tell you how awful
it makes you feel when you cut into your brand new t-slot or vacuum
table. Yes I know there are limit switches, touch off pad and sensors to
prevent that type of mistake. However, you would be surprised at how
often we "bypass" those features. The disposable bed can also...
Building your own CNC router table top

The CNC router table top on a homemade machine is a very important
considerations. The budget usually pushes towards the MDF style cutaway
table top, which I actually think is best because of its versatility. However,
design of the table support and structure should NOT be overlooked.
Continue this section for step 6 of the builders guide.
Continue to The builders guide: Step 7 Spindle Selection
Homepage
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The CNC Router Spindle: Your ultimate resource
The Router Spindle

So what is the router spindle? Don't be confused by
the "fancy" terminology. The spindle is simple the
actual motor doing the cutting, with the help of a
cutting tool of course. In other words it’s the actual
router of CNC router.
Like most everything else involving CNC routers,

there are a variety of spindle types out there. Some
made for wood, some made for metal, etc. As usual
there are many factors involved when choosing a
spindle for either your pre-build machine, or your
homemade CNC machine.
If you are buying an industrial CNC router , then

you should be well informed as to the capabilities of
the spindle before you buy. Most companies who sell CNC routers do a
pretty good job of displaying the spindle capabilities. The reason being,
this information is easily understood and appeals well to the reader. For
example, “our machine offers a 7 HP router.”
Most people readily understand these figures much more than linear
bearings and lead screw information and make a direct link to the
machines capabilities, which is somewhat true.
There are, however, many other important considerations. Such as, RPM,
load ratings, power requirements, and the collet type and size to say the
least.
If you are building a CNC machine, then you also need to make important
decision regarding the router spindle. Again, I realize a lot of hobbyists are
bound by budget which I respect. After all, that’s part of the challenge.
However, there are many choices to choose from within the same price
bracket.
One of the most important decisions for the hobbyists , I believe, is the
noise level. If you are anywhere near neighbors or your own house, then
this is a huge consideration. You don’t want to be running an extremely
load machine for hours at a time, unless you want angry neighbors.
This section will go into detail regarding all aspects of spindles of all types.
Well look at types and features, price ranges , mounting issues, and much
more.
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The CNC Router Spindle: Your ultimate resource
The Router Spindle: Types and Features

There are as many tpes of spindles as there are types of CNC routers out
there. We'll take a look at all types, from...
Spindle Prices and Costs

We'll look at general pricing of different types of spindles. This assures you
aren't getting ripped off by...
Mounting and Cooling Options

There are many ways to mount a spindle head, but there are very few
ways to do it right. Cooling the spindle and the cutting tool is a major issue
for some applications. The one way to make a bad...
Building your own

For the mechanically minded enthusiasts out there, there are ways to
make your won spindle that is specific to your needs. Although I view this
as an extra project and not a necessity as it would be hard to make
something cheaper than what is available commercially. Alternatively,
there are ways to crop parts from other machines to build a rather robust
router spindle that is…
Calculating Cutting Force

While designing, building, or operating a CNC router, you will probably run
across terms such as cutting force or chip load. This section will describe
how to calculate relative cutting force, chip load, optimal feed rates and
spindles speeds...
Continue to: The Builders Guide Step 8
Homepage
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CNC Electronics: MPG's, Buttons, Switches, Controle Panel
CNC Electronics
CNC electronics are a vital part of
any CNC machine. Aside from the
motors and CNC controllers , there
are many electronic components
that assist in the machine operation.
In this section we will cover all the

electronics involved with a CNC
router. Many people feel more
threatened by the electrical
components than the mechanics of
a machine. This doesn’t have to be the case. Whether you are building or
buying a CNC router , this section will help inform you on the electronic
systems found on a CNC router and help you understand how they come
together with other components to create a fully working machine.
For the buyer
If you are purchasing a CNC router , you will probably know right from the
start if something is wrong with the electronics. This should be checked
before ever committing to buying a CNC router. Of course for a new
machine, this should be of little concern. If you are buying a new machine,
everything should be in tip top shape and if not, send it back or have them
fix it.
However, if you are buying a used machine, it would be highly

recommended to check all the systems before hand. The control panel
buttons, limit switches, wiring, etc. For high end CNC routers, in any case
you should always have a professional inspect the machine if you find
something to be faulty. The chances of you shorting out other systems are
not worth the risk of trying to fix it yourself or having the “Maytag repair
man” look it over. For lower end models and hobby CNC routers , the
electronics are usually very straightforward but if you don’t feel
comfortable, have someone else do it.
For the Builder
There are many electronic aspects of a CNC router that are vital to its
function. Things such as limit and proximity switches, motor wiring, correct
cable sizing and selection etc. These features are, in my opinion, vital to
building a reliable machine. Yet many people neglect these feature
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because of lack of “know how” or budget . Many of these “add-ons” cost

only pennies to install and could save either your machine or the piece you
are working on. For the most part, adding these components is by no
means difficult.
There are also some CNC electronic features that are not often required.
Such as manual pulse generators, home and e-stop buttons, touch-off tool
sensors etc. These things may or may not be essential to the machine,
depending on the user, but do increase user friendliness. Not to mention,
increasing the overall look and feel of the machine.
With a few CNC electronic add-ons and a well constructed user panel, you
can make you homemade CNC routers seem like one off the shelf.
The Following Section Covers
The Control Panel

Layout and Overview
Features
Building Your Own
Buttons and Switches

Overview
E-stop Buttons
Home Switches
Misc. Switches
Limit and Proximity switches

Overview
Limit Switches
Normally On vs Normally Off
Proximity Switches
Manual Pulse Generators/Jog Wheels

Overview
True MPG Wheels
Jog Wheel
Other Options
Wiring and Fusing

Overview
Wiring Your System
Cable Selection
Fuses
Do’s and Don’ts
Cable Tracks
Connectors
Overview
Motor Connectors

DB9 Connectors
DB25 Connectors
Misc. Connectors
Lighting
Overview
Lighting your Work
Shop Lighting
Nifty Ideas
Power Supplies (PSU’s)

Overview
Stepper/Servo PSU
Controller PSU
Building your Own DC PSU
Shop Power Requirements
Tool Sensors
Overview
Digital Tool Sensors
Analog Tool Sensors
Build a Touch off pad
Breakout boards
Overview
Applications
Options
Build your Own
Troubleshooting
Need Help?
Contact Us
We will try and help you or provide you with
someone who can assist you.
Back to Homepage from CNC Electronics

The CNC Controller: Everything you need to know buildone or buy one
The CNC Controller

The CNC controller is the heart of any
CNC system. Without a controller, there
would be no CNC as we know it.
A controller completes the all important

link between a computer system and the
mechanical components of a CNC
machine. A controller’s primary task is to
drive electric motors that in turn drive a
CNC machine, with the help of a
mechanical drive system. Before the
advent of microprocessors or computers,
NC controllers held the stage. Computerized Numerically Controlled (CNC)
controllers are sometimes still refereed to as Numerically Controlled (NC)
controllers. Although this term is still technically correct. The term NC
controller is usually used when describing older controllers.
A Brief History
NC controllers were introduced in the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. An NC
controller receives a set of sequenced instructions, the program, consisting
of alpha and numeric characters. The controller then uses this set of
instructions to direct the motions of a machine tool (such as a milling
machine, lathe, or flame cutter), much like the controllers today.
The program was edited and programmed with the

very basic computers of the time. The program would
then be transported to the controller via a tape.
This permitted the program instructions to be read by the controller's tape

reader only once and then stored in the controller's memory. Magnetic
tape recorders and floppy disk drives were also being used for program
recording and storage. There were no direct links between the computer
and controller on early systems.
Debugging an N/C program before the advent of the computerized NC

required making a new tape, trying out the new tape, finding the next
error, making another tape, and so on.
The process of debugging a new program could require making a dozen or
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more punched tapes until an error free program was achieved. Engineering
changes required a new tape to be made and debugged.
Modern Controllers
Today, with the use of powerful microprocessors and computer systems,
the NC controller now communicated directly to a computer system with a
real time. This is the CNC controller that most of us are familiar with.
The controllers today do far more than drive motors. Some controller
systems have the capabilities to detect and control limit switches , spindles
speeds, coolant flow, and more.
Modern controllers still require operators to create a program for the

controller to follow. Operators today receive help from CNC Software
Software such as Computer-Aided Design (CAD) packages and Computer-
Aided Manufacturing (CAM) software along with the controller software to
are used to create the necessary numerical code such as G-code.
The controllers’ today range from professional standalone system, with

their own keyboard and user interface , to hobby use CNC controllers that
require a personal computer.
Types of Controllers
CNC Controllers can be broken down into two broad categories.
1) Open Loop Systems
2) Closed Loop Systems
Further more, controllers can be broken down into two categories with
respect to cost and abilities.
Professional Controller Systems - found on high end machine, are

usually standalone systems that offer their own user
interface panel and many features.
This section will discuss features and types of

controllers that fit into this category. We’ll also look at
some general pricing.
Hobby CNC Controller systems - are generally much cheaper and

usually require an external computer system and do not come with a user
interface system.
In this section we’ll look at all types of CNC

controllers that fit in this category, including pricing,
feature, brands, and more. This section continues
the Builder’s Guide section . We’ll discuss what

features and specifications you should look for and

how to match a controller with your system.
Building your own controller
For those who whish to save a few pennies and just need a simple
controller to drive motors there is the option of building your own.
This section will cover a complete guide on
building your own CNC controller. We’ll cover
everything from components to circuit boards and
soldering techniques.
Back to the Builder's Guide
Homepage

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Homemade CNC Router The Builders Guide (FREE!

The Builder's Guide

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Luckily, some of my questions I could answer with my mechanical

So I researched the internet. The information available is scattered and

Of course I would get many answers to my questions from different

CNC router kits and plans

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made costing me precious time, money, and frustration.

We will walk through ever component down to the bolts, looking at

LET’S GET STARTED

Step 1: Key Design Decisions

Step 2: The Base and X-axis Frame

STEP 3: The Y- Axis Gantry Design

STEP 4: The Z- Axis Assembly Design

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STEP 5: The Liniear Motion System

STEP 6: Mechanical Drive Components

STEP 7: The Cutting Table design

STEP 8: The Spindle Options

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STEP 9: The Electronics

STEP 10: The CNC Controller options

STEP 11: Selecting the Software

Go to Homepage from the Homemade CNC router guide

http://www.cncroutersource.com/homemade-cnc-router.html (5 of 5) [8/6/2008 12:52:12 AM]

. CNC Router Plans

Plans Home Page

Plans for low cost

The tables were

for the cost

Manuals There are two plan books.

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Dual Leadscrew Table

Both plan sets include hundreds of images and

All machines were designed around the drive, stepper

Tables' cost (Not

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Small Blue Tables X 20" Y 17.5" Z 4"

Stepper Size 200 oz.in. for the 13" x 13" and 17 x 20

Speed 35+ inches per minute rapid, 30 ipm cuts on

The machines were all designed to use the

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The large machines were designed to move quickly

The Rack and Pinion/Leadscrew machine is designed

Back to the top

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CNC Router Plans

You may prefer to design and build

This design is very popular among the DIY

http://www.cncroutersource.com/cnc-router-plans.html (1 of 2) [8/6/2008 12:54:06 AM]

Download JGRO’s Design in PDF format

Download JGRO’s Design in DXF format

“Joe’s 2006 R-1” Design

This is another very popular design. This

Download JOE’s 2006 design in EASM format

Download the free EASM viewer here

MORE PLANS ARE COMING VERY SOON!!!!

Return to Homepage from CNC Router Plans

http://www.cncroutersource.com/cnc-router-plans.html (2 of 2) [8/6/2008 12:54:06 AM]

Building a Hobby CNC Router

The concepts of CNC