SERI KULIAH ZAT PEMBANTU

TEKSTIL

SEKOLAH TINGGI TEKNOLOGI TEKSTIL

(STTT) BANDUNG
SEMESTER V, 2003

Oleh : Dr. Isminingsih Gitopadmojo, MSc, STeks.

Auxiliary Chemicals used during Wet
Processing

1. Desizing, Scouring and Bleaching

2. Mercerizing
3. Dyeing
4. Printing
5. Finishing
6. Phosphates
1. Desizing, Scouring and Bleaching

1.1. Anionic Detergents

1.2. Nonionic Detergents
1.3. Sequestering Agents
1.3. Stain Removing Agents
1.4. Kier-boiling assistant
1.1. Anionic Detergents

1. Sodium dodecyl benzene

sulphonate
(alkyl benzene sulphonate)
C13H25(C6H6SO3Na)
2. Fatty alcohol sulphate
- Sulphated ceto - stearyl:
C17H35 COOC16H32 (OSO3Na)
- Sulphated oleyl alcohol :
C17H33-CH2- (OSO3Na)
1.2. Nonionic Detergents

1. Nonilphenol-ethylene oxide
C9H19-C6H6-O-(CH2CH2-O)9- CH2CH2-OH
2. Fatty alcohol -ethylene oxide
- Stearyl -ethylene oxide :
C17H35 (CH2CH2-O)9- CH2CH2-OH
- Oleyl -ethylene oxide :
C17H33 (CH2CH2-O)9- CH2CH2-OH
1.3. Sequestering Agents

1. Ethylene diamine tetra-aceticacid

(EDTA) :
(CH2COOH)2-N-C2H2-N-(CH2COOH)2
2. Nitrilotri-aceticacid (NTA)
(CH2COOH)-N- (CH2COOH)2
3. Diethylenetriaminepenta-aceticacid
(DTPA) CH2COOH
|
(CH2COOH)2-N-C2H2- N-C2H2- N-(CH2COOH)2
1.4. Stain Removing Agents
(Emulsifier with high HLB)

1. Sodium dodecyl benzene

sulphonate
(alkyl benzene sulphonate)
C13H25(C6H6SO3Na)

2. Nonilphenol-ethylene oxide
C9H19-C6H6-O-(CH2CH2-O)8-19- CH2CH2-OH
1.4. Stain Removing Agents
(Emulsifier with high HLB)

These are available as self-

emulsifiable clear liquids, which
form milky white emulsions
when added to water under
stirring.
1.5. Kier Boiling Asistents
(Emulsifier with high HLB)

1. Sodium dodecyl benzene

sulphonate
(alkyl benzene sulphonate)
C13H25(C6H6SO3Na)

2. Nonilphenol-ethylene oxide
C9H19-C6H6-O-(CH2CH2-O)8-19- CH2CH2-OH
 1.5. Kier Boiling Asistents
(Emulsifier with high HLB)

A mixture of pine oil and

dipentene containing suitable
anionic emulsifiers, is a self
emulsifiable kier boiling assis-
tant, used to remove oily and
fatty materials from grey cotton
fabrics during kier boiling.
 2. Mercerizing

In the mercerization of cotton

materials, viscous solutions of caustic
soda (about 24%) are used, which are
difficult to penetrate into the fibre
material, especially when grey cloth
mercerized. Many wetting agents are
available for the purpose, which may be
divided into cresylic and non-cresylic
wetting agents.
 2. Mercerizing

2.1. Cresylic and non-cresylic

agents

2.2. After scouring agents

2.1. Cresylic and non-cresylic
agents

a). Cresylic agents :

p-cresol + 2-naphthol-6-sulphonic-
acid condensated with formalde-
hyde, catalyzed by sodium besulphite
b). Non-cresylic agents :
naphthalene-2-sulphonicacid
condensated with formaldehyde
with about 10 naphthalene unit
2.1. Cresylic and non-cresylic
agents

a). Cresylic agents :

OH OH CH2SO3Na

CH2 OH

CH2

SO3Na
SO3Na
2.1. Cresylic and non-cresylic
agents

b). Non-cresylic agents :

CH2 CH2 CH2OH

0-4
NaO3S SO3Na SO3Na
2.2. After scouring agents

a). Sodium dodecyl benzene sulpho-

nate (alkyl benzene sulphonate)
C13H25(C6H6SO3Na)

b). Fatty alcohol sulphate (Na)

C17H35-CH2-OSO3Na
2.2. After scouring agents

Anionic detergents like dode-

cylbenzene sulphonate (Na),
fatty alcohol sulphate (Na),
etc. are efficient for scouring
agents
 3. Dyeing

3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

    a). Levellers
      b). Wetters
      c). Retarders and
Accelerators
      d). Softeners
      e). Dispersing Agents
      f). Cationic dye-fixing
agent
 3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

a). Levellers
Fatty alcohol-ethylene oxide
condensates :
1). Cetyl alcohol – ethylene oxide
C16H32-(CH2-CH2-O)2- CH2-CH2-
OH
2). Palmytyl alcohol - ethylene
oxide
C15H31-(CH2-CH2-O)2- CH2-CH2-
OH
 3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

a). Levellers
Certain dyes, especially in the vat
series, have a high rate of dyeing and
poor migration property. It is very
difficult in such cases to obtain a level
dyeing, especially when the dyeing is
carried out in the package form.
Levelling agents are used in such cases
to dye the textiles evenly. They act by
keeping the reduced vat dyes in the
dyebath, and slow down the dyeing rate.
 3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

b). Wetters
1). Sulphonated Castor Oil
(Turkey Red Oil = TRO’)
C7H15-CH-C7H15-COOH

SO3Na
2). Sulphated methyl-ricinoleate
(Turkey Red Oil = TRO’’)
C5H11-CH-C5H11-(CH2)3-CH-CO-OCH3

OSO3Na OSO3Na
 3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

b). Wetters
Sulphonated castor oil (also called Turkey
Red Oil = TRO’) is used as a wetting agent
(pasting agent) for vat dyes and naphthols
before dissolving (by vatting and treating
with caustic soda solution respectively).
Wetting agent superior to Turkey Ted Oil
(TRO’) are Sulphated esters of fatty acids
like methyl or butyl oleate or ricinoleate
(TRO’’). These have wetting properties
which are better than those of Turkey Red
Oil.
 3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

c). Retarders and Accelerators

    Retardants are chemicals applied
topically to fabrics to remove
impurities, processing oils, excess
dyes etc.
 3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

d). Softeners
All fibres contain some oily, fatty, or waxy
substances in the raw state. The removal
of these substances during scouring and
bleaching operations, application of
certain colouring matter at high
concentrations and use of stiffening
agents during finishing make the feel of
the fabric harsh. These treatments impart
an unpleasant hand to the cloth. It is
therefore, necessary to apply some
softening agents to textiles to impart
softness, smoothness and flexibility.
3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

  e). Dispersing Agents

CH2 CH2 CH2OH

0-4
NaO3S SO3Na SO3Na

 B-Naphthalene sodium sulphonate-

formaldehyde condensation pro-duct
3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

      e). Dispersing Agents

     B-Naphthalene sodium
sulphonate-formaldehyde
condensation pro-duct, available
as powder, is a powerful anionic
dispersing agent, for use in vat
dyeing by pad-jig, pad-steam and
vat acid techniques.
3.1. Auxiliaries for dyeing

    f). Cationic dye-fixing agent

This product, available in the form
of an aqueous solution, is based on
dicyandiamide-formaldehyde
condensate and forms insoluble
complexes with anionic dyes.
+
-----NH2-CH2-NH-C=N-CH2---- nX-
n
NH-CN
 4. Printing
   

4.1. Thickeners 4.6. Nonionic

4.2. Solution agents detergents
4.3. Solvents 4.7. Anionic
4.4. Mild oxidising detergents
agents 4.8. Cationic dye-
4.5. Discharging fixing agents
assistants 4.9. Emulsifiers
4.10. Binders
 4.6. Nonionic detergents
Nonionic detergents based on nonyl phenol-
ethylene oxide condensate or fatty alcohol-
ethylene oxide condensate may be used in the
after scouring bath to remove the thickener
and the decomposition products from the
printed and steamed goods.
 4.1. Thickeners
Various thickeners are used to prepare
the printing pastes. These include maize
starch, dextrins (starch degradation
products), vegetable gums like gum
arabic, gum tragacanth, guar gum and
their modified products (mainly
carboxymethylated and hydroxy-
ethylated), sodium alginate (mainly for
printing reactive dyes) etc. Kerosene,
emulsified in water using suitable
emulsifying (mainly ethylene oxide
condensates), is the ideal thickener for
use in pigment printing.
 4.2. Solution agents
A solution aid, based on sodium benzyl
sulphanilate, is used to increase the
solubility of sparingly soluble vat and
solubilised vat dyes, thereby obtaining
increased colour value and more
uniform appearance of the prints.
 4.3. Solvents
Various solvents such as acetone (mixture of
mono-, di- and triacetates of glycerine for
basic dyes and stabilized azoic compositions),
glycol ethers (for vat and azoic colours),
thiodiethylene glycol (for vat dyes), diethylene
glycol (for vat dyes and phthalogen blue), etc.,
are used to improve the colour value of the
prints.
 4.4. Mild oxidising agents
Azo reactive dyes and azo disperse dyes
printed on cellulosic and polyester fibre
materials , respectively are likely to get
reduced during steaming of the prints,
thereby lowering the colour value of the prints
4.5. Discharging assistants
These chemicals are used for producing vat discharge
effects on vat grounds. Phenyl benzyl dimethyl
ammonium chloride or its sulphonated product is
used in the printing paste, containing potassium
carbonate and sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde.
 4.7. Anionic detergents
Anionic detergents based on alkyl benzene
sulphonate or sulphated fatty alcohols, may
also be used in the soaping of prints to remove
the thickener and the decomposition products
from the printed and steamed goods.
4.8. Cationic dye-fixing agents
When reactive dyes are printed on cellulosic
fibre fabrics by the direct style of printing, some
amount of the dye gets hydrolysed during
steaming. When the steamed fabric is soaped
subsequently, the hydrolysed dye is stripped into
the soaping bath from where it goes into the
soaping bath and then back on the cloth, thereby
tinting the white ground.
 4.9. Emulsifiers
Emulsion thickeners are used in pigment
printing. For this purpose, kerosene emulsion in
water is prepared with the help of non-ionic
emulsifiers, usually fatty acid-ethylene oxide
condensates, using a high-speed stirrer.
 4.10. Binders
Emulsion co-polymers, made from among the
various ethylenic monomers like butyl acrylate,
styrene, methyl methacrylate, acrylamide, vinyl
chloride, butadiene etc., are used as binders in
pigment printing.
 5.FINISHING
5.1. Cationic
    softeners 5.7. Water repellents
5.2. Anionic softeners 5.8. Silicone emulsions
5.3. Nonionic softeners 5.9. Stiffening agent
5.4. Reactive softeners 5.10. Glaze paste
5.5. Polyethylene 5.11. Resin preconden-
emulsion sates and cross-
5.6. Wax emulsion lingking agents
 5.1. Cationic softeners
Cationic softeners based on fatty acid-
diethanolamine condensate, fatty acid-
diethylene triamine condensate and available
in the form of water-dipersible pastes. They
impart soft, silky and supple handle to
polyamide, acrylic, acetate and cellulosic fibre
fabrics and their blends.
 5.2. Anionic softeners
These softening agents, available in the form
of off-white thick pastes, creamish viscose
pastes etc., can be diluted with hot water to
give opalescent solutions. They are mainly
based on fatty alcohol sulphate (Na) and
triethanolamine soaps.
 5.3. Non-ionic softeners
These softeners, based on high melting fatty
ester of polyglycol or fatty acid-ethylene oxide
condensates and available in the form of
cream coloured pastes, are miscible with
water.
5.5. Polyethylene emulsion
This nonionic softener, based on
emulsifiable polyethylene, is used to
impart a soft, and supple handle,
especially on white goods.
 5.6. Wax emulsion
These are emulsions of paraffin wax or
beeswax prepared in the presence of
suitable emulsifiers like sodium stearate.
 5.4. Reactive softeners
Methylol stearamide-based reactive softeners,
available as off-white pastes and readily
miscible with water, can react with cellulosic
fibre materials under acid catalysis
(diammonium hydrogen phosphate,
ammonium dihydrogen phosphate,
magnesium chloride etc.,) at elevated
temperatures.
 5.7. Water repellents
Stabilized cationic paraffin wax emulsions,
containing hydrolysable aluminium salts
like aluminium acetate or formate, are
available for producing water repellency
on cotton, wool, rayon etc.
 5.7. Water repellents
Stabilized cationic paraffin wax emulsions,
containing hydrolysable aluminium salts
like aluminium acetate or formate, are
available for producing water repellency
on cotton, wool, rayon etc.
 5.8. Silicone emulsions
Milky white emulsions, based on poly (dimethyl
siloxane) and / or poly (methyl hydrogen
siloxane) emulsified in water in the presence of
non-ionic, surfactant like nonyl phenolethylene
oxide condensate, are available for applying on
textile materials.
 5.9. Stiffening agent
A synthetic stiffening based on polyvinyl
acetate, may be used to obtain stiff finish
rayon fabrics.
 5.10. Glaze paste
A shiny, soft and lustrous handle can be
imparted to cotton fabrics by using glaze
pastes which is based on emulsified stearic
acid prepared in the presence of borax.
5.11. Resin precondensates and
cross-linking agents
Difunctional monomers, which can polymerise to
form homopolymers and/or crosslink with
cellulosic hydroxyls are available in the form of
aqueous solutions. They impart crease resistance,
wrinkle resistance, wash and wear properties and
durable press characteristics to cellulosic and
polyester/cellulosic blend fabrics.
5.11. Resin precondensates and
cross-linking agents
These include the following:
a) Dimethylol ethylene urea (DMEU)
b).Dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea
(DMDHEU)
c).Dimethylol ethyl triazone (triazone
crosslinking agent)
d).Dimethylol propylene urea (DMPU).
5.11. Resin precondensates and
cross-linking agents
These include the following:
a).Dimethylol ethylene urea (DMEU)
This is a crosslinking agent used to impart dimensional stability,
wash-and wear, and easy-care properties to fabrics of cellulosic
fibre and polyester/cellulosic blend fibres.
b).Dimethylol ethyl triazone (triazone cross-
linking agent)
This crosslinking agent is used to obtain dimensional stability,
wash-and-wear, easy-care durable press characteristics to
cellulosic and polyester cellulosic blend fabrics.
5.11. Resin precondensates and
cross-linking agents
These include the following:
c).Dimethylol ethyl triazone (triazone
crosslinking agent)
This is used to obtain dimensional stability, wash-and-
wear and easy-care properties, free from the defect of
chlorine retention, in cellulosic and polyester/
cellulosic blend fabrics
d).Dimethylol propylene urea (DMPU).
This crosslinking agent is used to impart dimensional
stability, wash-and-wear and easy-care properties to
cellulosic and polyester/cellulosic blend fabrics.
 6. PHOSPHATES
6.1. Buffers
    6.3. surfactant per-
6.2. Builders for formance by building
scouring, Builders complexes with
serve to overcome mineral ions
water hardness and (especially Ca2+
improve   and Mg2+), which
weaken the
6.5. Surfactants, and performance of
6.6. Flame retardant surfactants
finishes 6.4. Water conditioners