Turret Clock Guidelines

Guidelines for the
Repair, Restoration, Conservation,

Preservation
&
Maintenance
of Turret Clocks
by
Chris McKay
BSc CEng MIEE MBHI
[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 1 of 48]

Published by
Chris McKay
Lavenham
Hinton Martell
Wimborne Minster
Dorset BH21 7HG
United Kingdom.
chris.mckay@tesco.net
www.homepages.tesco.net.chris.mckay
Dear Reader,
Here is the initial issue of the Turret Clock Guidelines. It is only available as an e-docment, there is no
printed version.
Around 40 people have contributed to the two initial drafts of these Guidelines. Contributors were
mostly practical people with some involvement with turret clocks. Diocesan clocks advisers,
conservators and museum curators also commented making the whole document something much more
than my original. Further comments are welcome; please email me.
My initial idea was to publish the Guidelines once photos had been added. On reflection I will wait
awhile for feedback and then probably incorporate the Guidelines into the notes of the course that I run
at the BHI on Turret Clocks, and turn the whole into a book.
A late contribution indicates that I ought to make a clearer distinction between ordinary turret clocks
and those that deserve careful restoration techniques. As this would take some time I have decided to
publish these notes as the first issue, and consider the proposal for the next version.
Another suggestion is to produce an accompanying document ‘Commissioning Turret Clock Work’.

This would be a short guideline aimed at those, eg churchwardens, who have to organise restoration
and repair work on a turret clock. Topics would be things like, ‘comparing and understanding
quotations’ and ‘reasonable and unreasonable exclusions’ ‘maintenance’ and ‘warranties’. Your
comments please.
Next issue will probably be at the end of 2007.
Regards,
Chris McKay
First Issue July 2007
Copyright Notice
© C. G. McKay
2007
This document may be reproduced in its entirety free of charge. Those reproducing the document may
make a charge to cover the cost of printing or photocopying. These Guidelines may not be sold
commercially. Complete paragraphs may be quoted in other works provided that the source is
acknowledged.

Contents
Introduction 5
Turret Clocks... Our Heritage 5
Objective 5
Principles 5
Scope 5
How this book came about 5
About the Author 6
Acknowledgements 6
The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook 7
Health & Safety 7
Disclaimer 7
Definitions 7
Why a Philosophy? 8
Philosophy 8
Repairs 9
Recording 9
Conservation 9
Maintenance 9
Improvements 10
Economics 10
Cleaning turret clocks 10
Mechanical Cleaning 11
Solvent-based Cleaning 13
Dealing with Finishes 15
Common Repairs 17
Weights Lines 19
Leading off work and motionworks 20
Dials 21
Bells and Bell hammer work 24
Conversions Alterations & Repairs 26
Conservation 28
Documentation 29
Maintenance 30
Automatic winders 32
New Systems 33
Obsolescence 32
Motor-Assisted Winding 33
Installation of Automatic Winders 33
Connection of Automatic Winders 34
Existing Automatic Winders 36
Night Silencing 36
Automatic Correctors or Automatic Regulators 37
Chimes 38
Electric clocks 38
Risk Assessment Check Sheet 40
Access 40
Weight Lines 41
Weights 41
Dials 42
Bells and Hammers 42
Mobile Phone Transmitters 42
Faculties 43
Beyond Economic Repair 42
The Future for Retired Clocks 43
Choosing a Turret Clock Restorer 44
Qualifications for Turret Clock Restorers 44
Customer Expectation 45
Value Added Tax (VAT) 45
Organisations 46
The Turret Clock Database 46
Bibliography 47
Revisions
July 2007 First Issue
27 July 2007 Minor corrections

Introduction
Turret Clocks... Our Heritage
“There is no dead thing quite so like a living thing as a clock.” So wrote Lord Grimthorpe (designer of
the Great Clock at Westminster (popularly called ‘Big Ben’) in the first edition of his famous book ‘A
Rudimentary Treatise on Clocks, Watches and Bells’.
We have in the British Isles a wonderful heritage of turret clocks in churches, town halls, stable blocks,
houses, public institutions, clock towers and so on. Estimates indicate there could be some 25,000
mechanical clocks in service. As well as being decorative, a turret clock is a functional item. Despite
the technology that brings to us all very accurate time, turret clocks are still regarded with respect and
affection. Most people enjoy their chimes. A turret clock is more than a clock movement, it is the
whole entity, movement, weights, clock case, leading off work, dials, bells, hammers, building itself and
indeed the locality, culture and history that surrounds it all.
Objective
The objective of these Guidelines is that through establishing good practice based on a sound
philosophy, our turret clocks should be preserved for the many generations that will follow on after us.
To provide a set of rules on turret clock work which are to be slavishly followed would be naive.
Rather the issues involved with turret clock work are highlighted, and decision making processes are
covered so that each clock, which is a unique and individual item, can be assessed and an appropriate
course of action decided.
Primarily this booklet is intended as a technical book for those horologists who work on turret clocks.
However, it is hoped that it will be of use to others: owners, the clock winder, those who are
responsible for the care of turret clocks, collectors, church wardens, manufacturers, museums, local
authorities, and clocks advisers to churches and other organisations.
Principles
In a turret clock we have an artefact that needs to ‘live’ and perform a public task. As well as a clock
movement there are dials, a bell or bells and many other things associated with the clock. A turret clock
restorer not only has to be an able horologist and understand the clock mechanism, but must be a lot
more besides… a competent engineer, joiner, electrician, builder, painter and gilder, lead worker,
machinist, and sometimes steeplejack.
The hyper-conservationist might want a turret clock to be stopped, to be preserved as a snapshot of

history with all its problems, woes and tired-looking dial. On the other hand, the over-enthusiastic
restorer would want to make new parts so the clock worked well, ignoring ancient materials, techniques
and styles, perhaps to the ultimate extent of having totally to remake the clock. Both of these extreme
views are in the author’s view generally inappropriate.
Many turret clocks are in places of worship; whilst church communities care for the fabric and fittings
of their buildings, they cannot be expected to function as a museum.
Scope
These guidelines are intended to be applicable to all types of turret clocks in the British Isles. Certain
organizations, such as The Church of England, have their own specific rules. However these Guidelines
are much broader and deeper than what is currently available.
Those persons who work on turret clocks outside of the British Isles are also invited to consider using
these Guidelines as best fits their clock in the context of their country, culture, availability of tools and
materials, maintenance capability, and their current economic situation.
How this book came about

Having run courses on turret clock work, I was very conscious that repairers need to have some guide
as to what sort of work was acceptable and what was not. Apart from that, several friends and
colleagues in the trade suggested I produce a Turret Clock Code of Practice that would establish proper
expectations for work to be carried out, and expose unacceptable practices that are detrimental to the
clocks and not acceptable to the great majority of conscientious restorers who operate in the turret
clock field.
The first draft was circulated to restorers, repairers, manufacturers as well as museums and
conservation bodies. Comments and suggested alterations were invited and the first edition was
prepared which was reviewed by a small expert panel before issue.
About the author

Chris Mckay’s interest in turret clock dates back to when he was 11 and was fascinated with a derelict
clock tower overlooking the football pitch used by the school. When he was 19 he was involved with a
team of others in the repair of the clock. Since the he has worked a wide range of turret clocks from
major restorations to servicing. He has been involved in work in Canada, Australia and Western Africa.
He graduated as an electronic engineer from Sussex University and achieved Chartered Engineer status
when he was 29. His electronics experience ranged from field service through design and development
to manufacturing and testing. After being made redundant Chris fell into teaching where for 12 years he
taught Design and Technology in secondary school and then turned to clock work with the additional
objective of writing books.
Chris is a professional member of the British Horological Institute (BHI) and has run technical courses
on turret clocks for the BHI, and also for new apprentices and companies. He lectures on turret clocks
and horological topics.
Chris is a member of the Antiquarian Horological Society (AHS) and was for 27 years on the
committee of its Turret Clock Group. He has at various times been its Treasurer, Secretary and finally
Chairman for 12 years. He has edited their ‘A Guide to Turret Clock Research’ and ‘The Great
Salisbury Clock Trial’.
While a member of the Council for the Places of Worship, 25 years ago he wrote their turret clock
information booklet. He has recently been invited to rejoin this committee now known as The Council
for the Care of Churches..
Other publications include ‘The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook’, which has sold over 4,500 copies,
and works biographies:
Smith of Clerkenwell
Moore of Clerkenwell
Benson of Ludgate Hill.
In preparation is a book on James Harrison of Hull, the last of that great family of clockmakers. Future
projects include a history of The Great Clock at the Palace of Westminster (Big Ben) and a definitive
book on British turret clocks.
Acknowledgements
The help of the following persons is gratefully acknowledged: Nicholas Smith who suggested I
undertook writing these Guidelines. Keith Scobie Youngs FBHI and Peter D Watkinson FBHI. Both
of whom freely gave their technical expertise.
Almost 40 people responded to the initial draft that was sent out for review. The great majority in their
modesty did not elect to have their names included in the acknowledgements. Their help was absolutely
invaluable and without them, the Guidelines would only be half of what they are now. Contributors
came from a variety of backgrounds represented in the main by practical professionals, as well as
historians, museum curators, and diocesan clocks advisers. Quite a few inputs from overseas were
received. The contributions are hereby acknowledged with thanks. Not every comment could be
incorporated since people have widely different views on the best way to work on turret clocks. In
editing the comments I strove to use what was above all practical but sensible, and in the main
acceptable to the majority without damaging the clock. Some extremes of vicious cleaning and others
of being over-cautious had to be passed by.
To my knowledge, no one has produced anything detailed like this before, either for domestic clocks or
for antique watches.
The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook

First published by the Turret Clock Group of the Antiquarian Horological Society (AHS) in 1998, the
Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook is for those who look after a turret clock. After a history and basic
introduction to a turret clock installation, the book gives straight-forward advice on the basics of a
turret clock; winding, setting to time, adjustment, correction of striking etc. Regular maintenance is
also covered, but only regarding the need, not the detail of how to do it.
The first draft of the book was circulated to a wide variety of interested parties concerned with turret
clocks. The final version benefited greatly from contributions from these other sources. To date 4,500
copies have been printed.
Health & Safety

Visiting a turret clock may be dangerous; access could involve using ladders, stone staircases that can
be worn and wooden floors and steps could be wormed or rotten. See section on Risk Assessment
Check Sheets for a much fuller analysis of possible hazards.
Users must familiarise themselves with all safety issues when using chemicals, Consult the appropriate
Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) data. Where health and safety warnings are
given in the text, these are intended as reminders, not a complete guide to correct usage.
Disclaimer
This document is intended to give guidelines on issues involved with turret clocks and is given in good
faith. Anyone visiting, or undertaking any aspect of turret clock work does so at their own risk. No
responsibility is accepted for any other person’s actions regarding turret clocks.
Definitions
Clock installation
A clock installation is the complete entity of turret clock movement, weights, weight chutes, lines,
pulleys, leading off work, bevels, dials, hands, motionworks, bells, bell hammers, bell cranks, bell wires
and casework for clock, and anything else that relates directly to the clock.
Repair
Repair is the replacement, mending or re-shaping of a worn, broken, or missing part or parts.

Preservation, Conservation and Restoration
Clocks are different from other categories of historical artefacts or works of art in that they are working
mechanisms with moving parts that wear out. The terms preservation, conservation and restoration can
therefore have slightly different meanings from those applied to static works of art.
Preservation
Preservation is the process that attempts to arrest or delay the processes of wear and decay in a clock
and leave it as found, with no parts added or taken away. The process retains all previous alterations as
an historical record of the treatment the clock has received through the ages. As a clock is a working
mechanism with moving parts prone to wear, preservation can in practice mean the clock being retained
only as a static display.
Conservation
Conservation is the process that aims to arrest or delay the processes of wear and decay and maintain
the historical integrity of a clock, while allowing it to continue as a working mechanism. The
presumption is that the only alterations allowed are the replacement of worn out parts, with minimum
intervention and reversibility, as long as this does not upset historical integrity. If it does, preservation
might be the option.
Restoration
There are two meanings to this word: the first, and unfortunately all too prevalent, is a vague term that
covers preservation, conservation and strict restoration; the second more precise term describes the
process of attempting to return a clock to its original state, or a state at a defined date in its history.
Where an historical mechanism is reasonably complete, or missing parts are clear and obvious, this can
be a valid process. However, it can mean the removal of parts later than the defined restoration date
and in the past some restoration has seen the removal of, for example, early pendulum and anchor
escapements in favour of the speculative reconstructions of foliot and verge. Use of the vague term
restoration should be discouraged, while restoration in its stricter sense should be approached with
caution.
Maintenance
Maintenance is regular and ongoing cleaning, lubrication and inspection of a clock installation.
Chimes
Some clocks set off a tune playing device several time a day. These mechanisms are often called
carillons; strictly speaking these should be called tune barrels or chimes.
Why a Philosophy?
The whole of these Guidelines revolve around a philosophy instead of rules. If we establish the key
points on what we are trying to achieve, then good practice will follow naturally.
Of course there may be factors that mean that the ideal solution cannot be achieved. Economics is
likely to be the main constraining issue, along with time scales and practicality
Philosophy
A turret clock installation needs to ‘live’ and perform a public task. This includes leaving it
substantially as originally made, though complete with the modifications and updates that time has
necessarily inflicted, but less those that are disfiguring or completely out of character with the existing
mechanism. The clock should tell the time as accurately as reasonably possible, and where applicable,
strike on a bell. Dials should be working, attractive and appropriate to the building.

Not only should any work carried out be technically correct, it should be aesthetically pleasing and not
intrusive.
Every clock installation is different, so each has to be assessed on the situation, merits and economic
constraints. A balanced approach is needed, perhaps trading one thing against another. At the end, the
best possible outcome is needed for that individual clock installation.
Repairs
Repairs should be carried out in a workmanlike manner, following the style of the original and using
appropriate materials.
It is not necessary always to make ‘invisible repairs’ with some things such as bushings, it is good to be
able see what previous repairs have been made.
The use of appropriate modern materials and processes, such as stainless steel, adhesives and laser
welding is quite acceptable. Examples are phosphor bronze for bushes, stainless steel for minute arbor
ends, outside hammer pivots, and using thread locking and retaining compounds for securing parts. It
would be clearly inappropriate to say, make a replacement wheel of stainless steel on the grounds that it
would not rust.
Replacement parts should ideally be identified by stamping with a date and preferably with the initials of
the repairer. Also work done should be documented in a report. Original parts should be retained,
screwing them inside the clock case, or onto the clock stand ensures they do not get parted from the
clock.
Cleaning methods should be appropriate for a clock; brasswork not necessarily brightened up nor paint
and lacquer removed.
Repairs should always be minimal in approach, e.g. a brass train wheel bush is not replaced entirely, but
rather sleeved.
Replacements should be carried out only when absolutely necessary e.g. a bell hammer lever that has
broken and been repaired several times could be replaced since further repairs could be unreliable.
Where appropriate, replacements must be in the style of the original part, say a part on the clock
movement. In the example of the bell hammer, a complete modern replacement might well be
acceptable.
Automatic winders must be installed in a safe, mechanically-correct and aesthetically pleasing manner,
and be removable without trace. The original weights, winding handle, pulleys and weight chutes
should be retained. However, some churches have automatic winding installed specifically to create
more space by the elimination of weights and weight chutes.
Recording
Extensive work should always be recorded, documented and supported with photographs.
Maintenance
Routine maintenance should be carried out on a turret clock installation at least once a year. Simple
cleaning, and lubrication should be carried out on all parts of the installation and key items checked for
wear and health and safety issues. A brief dated report should be produced; this could take the form of
a ‘tick list’.
Conservation
“If it’s not practical its not conservation” is a catch phrase that well sums up conservation.
Conservation measures for a turret installation include many simple low-cost things that can be done to
keep dirt and the weather at bay.
Regular maintenance is also an excellent way to help conserve a clock.
Having a turret clock stopped under the guise of ‘preservation’ is generally not acceptable, since
running a clock is beneficial to keep rust from forming on pinions and pivots. If the clock in question is
either so rare, or in such poor condition that its originality would be seriously compromised by the
extent of repairs required, then retirement and preservation is a suitable option.
Improvements
To improve a turret clock is seldom needed or desirable. However, sometimes original parts have gross
design defects that demand that an improvement is needed in order that the clock will run reliably.
Cosmetic improvements should not be carried out, e.g. filling unused holes in frames. .
Drilling holes in hour tubes to provide lubrication to the outer bearing is acceptable, also adding an
oiling tube to take the lubricant to the inaccessible end of an hour tube. Where motionworks are totally
inaccessible, say immediately behind dials inside a thick wall, then it may be better for the clock to move
the motionworks into the tower and extend the hour tube and minute arbor.
Economics
Economics is an every-day part of turret clock work. Any proposed course of action will of course
have a financial implication, and that must be within budget constraints. Costs of research, report
writing and photography should be included in the budget.
Cleaning Turret Clocks

Many 19th century turret clocks are housed in purpose-built wooden cases that help to keep the clock
movement clean. Earlier clocks often have no case at all. However, turret clocks can get very dirty
mainly with accumulated oil and grease that solidifies with the passage of years. For unprotected
clocks, dust and grit blowing about in towers can get into the movement. Bird droppings are frequently
encountered where tower louvres are not properly netted. Towers can experience a wide variation of
temperature, as well as damp, usually in the form of condensation. All these factors conspire to
accelerate the process of decay and corrosion. Sometimes condensation on clocks is experienced where
the clock is in an unventilated case.
Proximity to the coast is particularly problematic especially in the 19th century of wrought-iron where
the salt sometimes seems to get into the structure of the metal and can present as beads of water along
the slag seams caused by the absorption of atmospheric moisture
Damp causes corrosion to metals in form of rust on iron and verdigris on brass, bronze and copper.
The first thing is to remove the source of damp and ensure the clock room and the clock case are both
dry. In a tower there will always be problems with condensation when the weather changes; adequate
ventilation in a clock case is therefore needed.
Just what to clean and how far to go is the problem that every repairer / restorer / conservator has to
address. There are conflicting objectives: The clock needs to run reliably, it needs to look attractive
but still retain the evidence of its making and subsequent history. Cleaning can potentially remove
evidence. Surface finish and patina on say, an old bracket clock, is attractive to discerning collectors.
Turret clocks can have a much coarser finish, so this must to be borne in mind when choosing a
process.
The starting point is the clock, and to consider its age, its historical importance, the maker, how
common the clock is, plus any other related features. Next to consider is the planned use and position
of the clock and what the owner’s wishes are. Then a plan of action can be developed. Giving some
examples as guidelines may help.
Case 1 is a flatbed by Cope of Nottingham dated 1897. It is in a church and has been disused for many
years and the whole clock is very rusty, the brass work is green and there is little paint on anything.
Cope made some dozens of clocks, so they are not unusual, and have no particular technical features or
merit. A good decision here is to strip the clock back to bare metal and, after repairs, to paint ironwork
in the original colour and to lacquer brasswork.
Case 2 is a small end-to-end movement of the 17th century that has been converted to pendulum. It has
been found in a store room in a stately home and the owner would like the clock running as a display.
The ironwork is all rusted. Here minimal cleaning is the best plan, pinions, pivots, wheel teeth and
running parts would need careful attention. Provided the rust was not active and the clock was going
into a dry environment, the surface rust could be coated with black wax.
Case 3.is an unsigned two-train birdcage movement of around 1740. The workmanship is absolutely
top quality, pinions and pallets are unworn. The whole frame is shabby with half of the paint (probably
not original) missing and some rust. Brasswork is discoloured with a little corrosion. The clock is in a
private house. Here is a case where minimal cleaning of corrosion products is the best course of action.
Mechanical Cleaning
Mechanical Cleaning
Item Recommendation Notes
Loose dirt Wooden scraper Will not scratch
Loose dirt and Steel scraper Do not use on brass
rust on cast iron
Loose dirt, on Brass scraper
brass
Rust on cast A cup or knot wire brush on angle grinder. This Very effective on cast iron,
iron. can glaze over rust and whilst a thin oxide layer never use on brass or wrought
is acceptable, a glazed crust is not. It is iron.
beneficial to sharpen the brush by running it on
an old grinding-wheel.
Rust on Remove loose rust with wire brush. Old wrought-iron before around
wrought iron. 1700 rusts then the rust seems to
Use proprietary rust neutralizer. form a hard coating and no more
rust occurs. In this state it is
Paint or treat with microcrystalline wax. probably best left alone as it is a
stable coating.
Finnegan’s Waxoyl is a similar wax product.
Teeth on cast Hand steel wire brush
iron wheels
Teeth on brass Hand brass wire brush
wheels
Anything Abrasives such as Garyflex blocks and emery Causes scratches, depending on
tape. Garyflex is a trade name for a rubber block fineness of abrasive. Can round
impregnated with abrasive; they are available in edges.
four different grades from very fine to coarse.
Use with caution
Wet or dry paper, rottenstone and pumice
sometimes useful. (Rottenstone is an old
traditional abrasive used by clockmakers, it is
also known as Tripoli powder and is the main
constituent in liquid metal polish)
Suppliers to vintage vehicle restorers have a

variety of abrasive wheels that are kind to metals.
3M make abrasive pads like household pan

scourers. These pads are used in the automotive
paint finishing trade, are available in different
grades and produce a very fine finish.
Insides of brass Brass gun barrel brush. Do not use emery or grit-loaded
/ bronze bushes abrasives inside holes.
Sisal parcel twine is a rough hairy string good for
running through small holes.
Pipe cleaners (as used by pipe smokers) are good

for tiny holes like those for gravity arms.
Paint-stripper very effective on varnished oil, but

keep off lacquer.
Fine wire wool attached to an arbor produces a

good finish.
Heavily rusted Grit blasting. Coarse grades of grit are not
items e.g. bell appropriate. Check a sample
cranks, bell Glass beads produce the best finish. Sand also is before proceeding.
hammers, cast a more gentle abrasive.
iron dials. Protect pivots and fixed brass
Good for heavily rusted cast iron. bushes with gaffer tape.
Use with caution on wrought iron. Ensure the company doing the
work uses appropriate grade of
Primer needs to be particularly carefully chosen, grit.
ideally with some form of passivation built in to
neutralise any remaining rust. Prime or have zinc sprayed
immediately after blasting.
Zinc spraying on iron dials and hammer work can
be used as a protection before painting. Holes in dials can be filled with
car body filler.
Grit blasting cast iron dials often reveals filled
blow-holes in the original casting.
Light corrosion Fine steel wool and oil. Cleans and brightens without
where some damaging surface.
surface
brightening
would be
appropriate.

Solvent-based Cleaning
Solvent-based Cleaning
Light soil, bird Detergent and water Pressure washers are very useful.
droppings
Steam and hot water washers
would also be good.
Dry items in a warm chamber

after final rinsing, fluids seep
into cracks particularly around
bushes.
Oil and grease White spirit, paraffin. Inflammable, do not use on site.
May remove some paint.
When dry, wash off with

detergent and water as the smell
can remain for ages.
Wiping exposed ironwork with

an oily rag will prevent rust.
Oil and grease Emulsifiers as used in pressure washers or for May remove some paint, check
engine and parts degreasing. first.
Check to see if emulsifier can be

diluted.
Wash off with detergent and

water.
Pressure washers are very useful.
Wiping exposed ironwork with

an oily rag will prevent rust.
Hard congealed Paint stripper. Removes paint and lacquer.
oil and grease
Severe soil, Caustic soda bath Removes paint, lacquer. Softens
verdigris verdigris and rust.
Can etch brass.
Do not have any zinc-plated

(galvanised) iron items in the
bath, otherwise everything gets
plated with zinc.
Hazardous chemical.
General soil, Ammoniated clock cleaning solution. The ammonia brightens brass by
tarnished brass. [Note 1] removing the surface.

It can aggravate stress corrosion.
Soak cleaned items in water to

remove ammonia.
Hazardous chemical.
General soil, ‘Thames soup’ cleaning solution Cleans without significantly
tarnished brass. [Note 2] brightening brass.
If you leave it for a couple of

days and brush off the debris
from time to time it will leave
the surface scoured of every
trace of corrosion product. If the
surface was previously very
corroded it will be left looking
very rough indeed with a porous
surface exposed.
‘Thames Soup’ will brighten

bronzes which ammonia
blackens, it does leave the
surface very clean and it can go
a bit orangey in colour if not
carefully brushed and cleaned.
Can be expensive.
Rust Rust remover. (These are often based on Very effective but etches the
phosphoric acid) iron.
Hazardous chemical.
Rust Electrolytic cleaning. Removes rust without damaging
[Note 3] surface. A very slow process.
Good for items like pulley

wheels. Remember that once
corrosion products have been
removed, some pitting may then
show up.
For ancient wrought iron ask the

questions “Does the rust need to
be removed?”
Note 1
This is commercially available as clock cleaning solution, it comes as a concentrate that is diluted before
use. Formulas for this are found in most books on clock repairing, generally the mix is 1 cup of soft
soap (oleic acid), 1 cup of acetone, 1 cup strong (0.88) ammonia, and 1 gallon water. Warning: Eye
protection must be used when using ammonia, and it must be used in a ventilated space. A special
ammonia mask is made by 3M.
Note 2
‘Thames soup’ is the name that became attached to the cleaning solution used by the Old Royal
Observatory at Greenwich. The formula for this as found on page 33 of ‘Conservation of Clocks and
Watches edited by Peter Wills, published by the BHI in 1995 is…
3.3ml of DPTA (DPTA is pentasodium salt diethylenetriaminepenta-acetic acid)
0.28ml of Triton X 100 (a soap).
100ml water boiled to remove the oxygen.
Note 3
Electrolytic cleaning involves suspending a rusted iron artefact in a bath of electrolyte, usually a caustic
soda solution. The item to be cleaned is connected to the –ve cathode, and a stainless steel mesh anode
is connected to the +ve terminal. A low voltage is applied and a current of several amps is passed
through the item to be de-rusted. Gas evolves in the process that must be done in a well ventilated
place. For fuller details a search on the Internet will reveal a lot of museum-based documentation on
the subject.
Dealing with Finishes

Finish on a domestic clock is a source of much discussion. The discerning collector usually wants a
clock that looks old, has a nice patina, but is clean and functional.
A turret clock is not a domestic clock in a house. It is usually housed in an unheated room in a tower
and is subject to damp and dust. Consequently the finish on a turret clock is functional. Whilst it is
desired to preserve a nice antique finish, rust, verdigris, missing paint and dirt do not constitute a
‘finish’.
Dealing with Finishes

Original paint in The original paint finish of the clock should be
good condition. preserved where possible.
Original paint in If some paint is missing, then treating with Can touch up missing parts.
fairish microcrystalline wax is a good approach.
condition. Paints can now be computer
colour matched.
Original paint in This is a difficult one. From a conservation view Leave original paint in places
poor condition. the missing paint could be touched in with a where it will not be seen, under
matched paint. removable bushes and train bars.
If most of the paint is missing then a complete Or, take samples for later
repaint may be the best solution, but leaving analysis.
evidence of the original colour.
Paint colours do change with
age, usually by the action of
light. Turret clocks are usually
in dark situations, but other
ageing processes occur. On
turret clocks it is wise to scrape
the paint surface to see if there is
a different colour below.
Looking underneath fixed items
is also helpful.
Painted items To conserve, strip to bare metal and repaint. If possible use epoxy or two-part
like bell paints that will provide
hammers, protection for decades.
cranks, Spraying such paints is a process
motionworks, that must be done by a specialist.
that are in poor
condition and Hand painting is better for the
are in aggressive restorer since less likely to miss
environments parts.
like belfries.
Hammereite and Rustoleum are
commercial paints that are rust-
resistant.
Painting: The colour chosen should be as close to the Do not use a ‘House Colour’ to
Choice of original colour as possible. do all work. Though identifying
colours an individual or company, this is
Semi matt paints are the best, high gloss is a usually inappropriate.
modern finish and looks too garish.
Specialist paint suppliers can
On external dials gloss paints are probably best match paints very well.
for durability.
Lacquer on Over-lacquer and treat brass with Best to leave the situation as it
brass sometimes microcrystalline wax. is.
comes off in
places leaving a
patchy
appearance.
Lacquer on Remove remaining lacquer with paint stripper Some brightening of the brass is
brass has come and re-lacquer. acceptable before lacquering.
off in most
places, brass
underneath
corroded.
Brass setting Most setting dials are brass. Hand-engraved Mid to late 19th century dials are
dial. ones should be carefully cleaned if necessary and usually deeply machine
lacquered. engraved.
Silvered setting Consider leaving alone and treat with The legibility of any setting dial
dial patchy. microcrystalline wax. is important. There is no point
conserving a dial if it cannot be
If the surface has not been lacquered, then read.
rubbing with a paste of cream of tartar (tartaric
acid) and salt, as used in the finishing process of
silvering, may revive the surface.
Rubbing it with silvering compound will certainly

revive the silvering and may be abrasive enough
to remove remaining lacquer.
If lacquered, then this can be removed with paint

stripper, but the stripper will probably affect the
wax.
Silvered setting Clean carefully using minimal abrasion and re- Re-silvered is fraught with
dial in poor silver and lacquer. possible difficulties since silvered
condition where turret clock dials usually have

the chapters and fine engraving like domestic
minute are clock dials. This may be
mostly illegible. damaged when the brass is
prepared.
There is no problem with

deeply–engraved dials.
Silvering setting Do not silver a dial unless there is evidence of it Most turret clocks have brass
dials; general having been silvered originally. setting dials which are lacquered.
comments. Some high quality 19th century
makers like Vulliamy and Paine
silvered their setting dials, but
generally silvering is the
exception.
If a brass dial is suspected of

having been silvered, check the
back of the dial, in holes and
under screw heads for traces of
silvering.
Common Repairs
Common repairs are listed here, along with suggestions and recommendations.
Repairs
General Whilst repairs should not be obvious, is not It helps the next repairer to see
necessary to make them invisible. what bushes have been fitted.
Bushings Make the bush wall of minimal thickness, say Bushes are most commonly
1mm to 2mm beyond the worn area. needed on pallets, scape wheel,
barrels and pin / cam wheels.
Do not replace the whole bush unless it is very
thin walled. Anaerobic adhesives are good
for securing bushes.
New suspension Use good quality spring steel, make sure all New springs can sometimes take
spring edges are rounded, particularly the fixing holes. a while to settle in, so the rate
No sharp corners from which fatigue cracks can may vary.
develop.
Some early suspension springs
Some suspension springs made by Joyce and are stiff and the clock rate my
Whitehurst are thick springs ground down in the change considerably when a
working area to the correct thickness. modern less stiff spring is fitted.
Replicating these is time consuming, an
alternative is fabricated from thin stock with Grease the spring to prevent
thick ends. rust.
Resurface pallet Pads are often detachable so can be resurfaced Pads must be highly polished and
pads and then shimmed to return to the correct action. hardened so they are dead hard.
Badly rutted dead-beat pallets can be slotted out If the clock is running well be

and tool-steel pads turned to the correct radius very wary of improving the
and soldered or secured with a retaining drops too much as it is only too
compound in place. easy to end up with too large an
arc and insufficient weight to
Laser welding can be used to build up pads. drive the hands.
Badly damaged Reverse wheel if possible. Make a new wheel is an option,
or worn teeth. but making an annulus can be a
Trepan off the band with the existing teeth and bit faster and it preserves most
preserve with clock. Fit new annulus (ring) and of the original wheel.
cut new teeth.
Teeth on cast iron wheels have
New teeth may be fitted to brass wheels by been repaired in the past by
dovetailing in a section of brass then profiling the fitting several pegs that are then
tooth. profiled to shape. This is not a
very elegant solution.
New teeth can be similarly fixed on cast iron
wheels.
New ratchet teeth can be secured with a hex

socket screw which is then filed down once
fitted.
Worn pinions. Build up wear with weld and re-profile pinion. Sometime old pinions are nutted
on and can be reversed.
Laser welding is a new technique

that can give a very localised
addition of metal.
Worn ratchet Do not repair, make a new one. A good ratchet and click is
wheel and / or essential for the well-being of the
click for fly. clock. Failure can lead to
extensive and expensive damage.
Loose fly Sometimes a click is not used but there is a As above.
friction spring. circular friction spring. If the spring is cracked
then replace, otherwise careful forming will
return the required spring pressure.
Retaining pins. Fly assemblies are often retained by taper pins. If The fly coming off will lead to
a taper pin is used, split or bend the end so it will extensive damage.
never fall out.
Alternatively use a modern split pin.

Barrel clicks Dismantle where possible, clean and carefully The click and ratchet take the
inspect for cracks particularly at sharp corners. whole force of the driving
weight. These components must
Similarly inspect click springs. be in A1 condition.
Application of thread locking adhesive

recommended on all screws and nuts concerning
clicks and click springs.
Barrel ratchet Must be in good condition. Re-profile if worn. As above
teeth Replace teeth if missing.
Make new ratchet wheel if many teeth are

damaged / missing.
Notes on Thread Locking and Retaining

Henkel Technologies produce ‘Loctite’ an internationally known family of locking compounds. These
are anaerobic adhesives, they cure when air is excluded from the joint. Locking adhesives are
extensively used in the automotive, aerospace and maintenance industries.
Loctite Grade Application

222 Low strength adhesive for locking screws. Can be dismantled.
243 Medium strength adhesive for locking nuts. Can be dismantled.
603 High strength adhesive for permanently retaining parts. Low viscosity for filling small
gaps up to 0.1mm. Cannot be dismantled.
638 High strength adhesive for permanently retaining parts. High viscosity for filling large
gaps up to 0.25mm. Cannot be dismantled.
Locking and retainer adhesives can be broken by heating components up to around 250°C.
Weight Lines
Weight lines have a finite life and need to be changed when they show signs of wear or rust.
Weight Lines
General As a matter of safety do not hesitate to change a Lines are frequently changed
line if there is any doubt as to its condition. through the life of a clock, there
are no conservation issues here.
It is wise to get a Test Certificate / Certificate of
conformance when purchasing steel line. However, Vulliamy did
occasionally use gut lines, so if
you ever come across something
unusual then preserve a sample.
Old soft iron wires are worth

preserving a sample.
Wire line Replace the line if it:- Lines on passenger lifts have to
replacement Shows any sign of rust outside or inside. be changed every 6 years.
Is polished smooth.
Has prickles.
Rope Replace the rope if it: Rope is seldom used except on
replacement Has dust inside it. old historic clocks with wooden
Is frayed. barrels.
Use pre-stretched synthetic rope.
Expect that pulleys will be worn

and needing attention.
Pulley hangers, If there is any doubt, replace screw in eyes of Check the hangers and tie off
weight tie off uncertain security with eye bolts that go all the points for safety e.g. the
points. way through a beam. U bolts round a beam are supporting wood for worm and
an alternative. rot.

Leading off work and Motionworks
Leading off work and Motionworks

General Repair protective wooden boxes over At least 50% of turret clock
comments on motionworks and bevel gears. stoppages can be traced to
leading off work problems in the dials,
and If there are no protective boxes, then have some motionworks and leading off
motionworks. made. work.
Fit of hands and Hands should ideally be a good fit on the When re-assembling hands apply
balance. squares. a little grease (copper loaded is
excellent) to squares and
The hands, particularly the minute hand, must be hexagons to prevent hands
carefully balanced. becoming jammed on with
corrosion.
It is usual for the end of the

minute hand nut to be closed to
prevent water ingress. If not,
then close with lead solder or
resin.
A tiny amount of paint applied

under the minute hand nut when
it is tightened will keep water
out and prevent the nut from
coming loose.
Oil holes. It is acceptable to drill a hole in the hour tube to This is acceptable practice since
facilitate lubrication and to fit an oiler cap or a it is good for the clock.
One design fault clip like on a cycle hub. Make sure the swarf
often found in does not go inside the tube.
British turret
clocks is the Where the bearing is impossible to get to due to a
lack of facilities thick wall, an oiler tube can sometimes be fitted
to oil the minute to take the oil to the end of the tube.
arbor at the
outside end Care should be taken not to over-oil and cause
where it passes stains down the dial
through the
hour tube. This
can result in the
rusting of the
minute arbor.
Badly rusted Replace the complete arbor, or the end, with
minute arbor, stainless steel.
usually where it
emerges from
the hour tube
just behind the
minute hand
collet.

Dials
Dials
General Due to their exposed position, dials are very Dials are of course the visible
prone to weathering of the dial material itself, evidence of a clock and must be
paint finish, the gilding, and the dial fixings. kept in good order and
appearance.
Consult an architect where dial fixings involve
the surrounding masonry. or where the masonry There is no reason to keep an
is in poor condition. external dial in poor condition
on the grounds of preservation.
Some turret clocks do not have external dials;
either the building could not afford a dial or its Where an old dial has been
addition would disfigure the architecture. removed and is inside the
building, this is in general left
alone and not restored.
How dial is Dial restoration is best carried out by removing Dial removal and replacement is
restored, in situ the dial and working on it in a warm dry a specialist job for a steeplejack
or remove the environment. or a clock company used to
dial. undertaking such work.
Painting and gilding outside can only be done
reliably in good weather. Removing the dial for
restoration work will add to the
In-situ dial restoration is sometimes obligatory cost of the dial restoration.
for certain types of dials, e.g. very large dials or
for stone ones that are part of the building
structure.
Wooden dials Where repairs are needed then a competent joiner Old dials are usually made of
should be employed using only hardwoods such wood, particularly the early 18th
as oak. In the case of limited decay, rot and century diamond-shaped dials.
worm can be consolidated using proprietary Astonishingly these can survive
conservation materials such as Paraloid B72. very well and regular painting
preserves the wood.
If the dial surface is too bad to be re-paint
consideration can be given to facing the boards
with copper sheet, stainless steel or marine
plywood.
Some wooden dials can be elaborate with

monograms, carvings, figures, sundials etc.
These need to be trusted to a woodworking
specialist.
Copper dials Damage at the edge where many passing Copper sheet is a common
generations have drilled holes for fixings may be material for making dials, it is
repaired with copper patches soft soldered to the almost invariably beaten into a
dial. convex shape with a raised
moulding round the edge to give
Bullet dents can be easily beaten out once the dial it strength. Large dials are made
has been removed. of smaller sheets that are joined
together using a comb joint and
Spun aluminium dials are modern newcomers brazing.
that are now available.
Lead dials Seek specialist advice. Lead dials are fortunately rarely
met. Paint does not adhere well
to lead, and the lead flows over
time which can present problems
where the dial sags.
Cast-iron dials Cracks are sometimes found in the castings. Cast-iron is a common material
These are often very old but if thought necessary, used for dials in the 19th
can be repaired by specialist welding or with century, generally the dial is a
stainless steel straps. skeleton construction and may
be glazed with opal glass.
A skeleton dial that was cracked in many places
may present safety problems. A copy in GRP is a Original opal glass is prone to
good solution. An alternative is a copy in staining, the result of a century
stainless steel, laser and plasma profiling services or more of coal fires. This stain
are widely available. is often etched into the glass and
cannot be practically removed.
Where glazing is damaged, opal-coloured acrylic
sheeting can be used.
Polycarbonate is a very strong plastic and is good

where a high impact resistance is required, say
where vandalism has often been encountered.
Opal glass was once difficult to find but is

becoming more available and specified more
often by architects.
Stone dials Stone dials should not be painted, but chapters Slate produces a very elegant
and minute marks may be gilded. appearance, but sometime the
slate will crack. Specialist
treatment from a stone mason is
necessary.
Fibre glass It is unacceptable to replace a copper dial with a Glass fibre (GRP) is a material
(GRP) dials GRP dial on the basis of convenience, i.e. a new that has been used since the
painted and gilded dial can be put up at the same 1960s for making dials. It is
time as the old dial is removed. light, durable and generally the
best solution for new dials. GRP
Where an old wooden dial is so decayed as to can suffer from corrosion, but
require a complete re-making, GRP can be used not in the same way as metals
as an alternative to wood. The old dial can be do. Where the dial is self-
used to make a mould. coloured it can be subject to
fading, chalking and loss of
Durability is the issue in this situation. colour due to the action of UV
in sunlight. Correct choice of
gel coat resin with UV inhibitor
when the dial was made will
reduce fading and deterioration.
Crazing can occur along with
cracking due to impact of stones
or air gun pellets. Rubbing
down the surface and making
local repairs where necessary is
all that is needed. If a dial is
delaminating then that indicates
faulty manufacture and would
generally need complete
replacement.
Dial Painting The best way to preserve an old dial is by the
application of an appropriate modern paint finish.
These are highly durable and will last for many
years.
As an example, a cast-iron dial would be grit-

blasted to remove the rust, hot sprayed with zinc
to prevent rust, treated with an acid-etch primer,
and then a two-part epoxy paint applied. These
paints are usually toxic and demand the services
of a specialist with the correct equipment. Some
people prefer to brush on a special paint like
Hammerite or Rustoleum, both of these can be
applied to rusty surfaces and give a thick durable
coat.
Copper dials are carefully cleaned down to the

bare metal noting and recording any markings.
An etch primer and suitable paint then follows.
Again, a specialist painter can be used provided
they are properly briefed on the job.
Gilding Gilding should be done with 24 or 23 ½ carat Never use gold paint, it does not
gold leaf. last.
Best to use 24 carat gold if the dial is near to the Expectation of a restored dial
sea. should be 25 years, but depends
on locality.
Dials should be gilded copying the original style
of chapters and minute marks. Using commercially-available
transfers will not replicate the
Where a dial has been poorly repainted hiding the original figures.
original figures, stripping the paint can reveal the
original figures. If the chapters are very clumsy On copper dials it was a
and obviously not appropriate, and if no original common practice to scratch the
chapters can be found, then re-gilding with chapters onto the copper before
chapters in an authentic style is appropriate. repainting. However, where this
has happened on several
occasions, it may be difficult to
identify what was really the
original.
Dial fixings Dials should be re-fixed using only stainless steel A point of particular concern is
or bronze fixings. dial fixings. Many dials were
installed in the last half of the
There are a wide range of stainless fixings 19th century, probably using
including expanding bolts, studs that can be fixed four iron bolts into stone,
into masonry with resin and coach screws that brickwork or even into wooden
screw into plastic plugs.. blocks. With the passing of
years these have mostly rusted
The best way for heavy cast-iron dials is to bolt away leaving dials in a
the dial all the way through the tower wall. dangerous position.
Where this is not possible, then studs may be Cast iron dials are can be found
fixed into the tower masonry using chemical to be cracked.
anchors or special resins.
Masonry may be in poor
condition.
If the dial fixings have not been

checked recently they should be
done so with some urgency.
Rust stains on the wall are an
indicator that attention is
needed.
In bad cases the dial drops down

a little and causes the hour tube
to bind.
Hands Hands in bad condition may be replaced provided Hands are usually of copper, but
they are in the same style and material as the can be occasionally bronze,
original. wrought iron and even wood.
The use of ‘standard house style’ shaped hands

as a quick replacement is unacceptable.
Bells and Bell hammer Work

Bells and clocks have to coexist in towers, most often in churches. Any work to be carried out should
consider the bells and the bellringers be consulted. Good relations are essential since it is so often the
bellringers that wind the clock and provide the first line of care.
Bells may be specifically for the use of the clock, but in churches they are often used for ringing for
services as well. The art and science of English change ringing means that the bell rotates in an almost
complete circle to produce a full note. A bell is a very expensive item to repair or replace, great care
must be taken with servicing and repairing bell hammers. A faulty bell hammer might cause a bell to
crack, or damage to the wheel and bell fittings.
WARNING
Do not enter a belfry when the bells are ‘up’. The term ‘up’ refers to when the bells are standing with
their mouths pointing up, a small push will set a bell swinging and it will crush whatever is in its path.
Bells and Bell Hammer Work

General Bell wires, cranks and hammers are often very Be aware that a considerable
neglected and poorly adjusted. time may be needed to set up
properly or refurbish hammers,
wires and cranks.
Bell cranks Cranks must operate properly using the middle Bell cranks are often very
of the angular movement and not pulling neglected there can however be
obliquely, pivots should be kept in order to much frictional wastage due to
prevent slop and rubbing on frames or brackets badly installed crank and
hammer-work, this frequently
Wires should not rub each other or framing, long causing so much unnecessary

runs should be supported by hanging wire eyes loading that considerable
pivoting from a screw eye so that they swing as reductions in driving weight can
the wire moves. This prevents wasted movement. be achieved with a
corresponding reduction in wear
All points of contact, e.g. S hooks and wire eyes, on the clock.
should have a smear of grease or oil.
Sloppy pivots lose oil and collect
contamination.
The same guidelines as given for

hammers apply to bell cranks.
Wires When making replacements, 3 mm stainless steel Wire used for connecting bell
wire is an alternative non-rusting material to hammers was traditionally
galvanised wire. galvanised 1/8 inch fencing wire
and before that plain wrought
Joints are to be made neatly; it pays to make a iron wire. The same material
bending jig. was used for the S hooks that
connect the wire to the hammers
Joints and hooks to be lubricated with grease or and cranks.
oil.
Bell hammers. If in poor condition, the best action is to remove Belfries are usually only
the hammers, have them grit blasted, painted and protected from the weather by
repairs made to worn parts. louvres. This means that bell
hammers are almost always
Often the check spring wears as does the hammer badly corroded.
shaft on which the spring operates. This wear
can be made up with weld, but welding broken Hammer bearings can be in poor
check springs is rarely successful: install a new condition, they take a large
spring. impulse load every time the
hammer is operated.
For long life, painting is best done by a specialist
after grit blasting and zinc spraying then using an It is uncommon to find original
acid etch primer followed by a two-part epoxy hammers with wrought-iron
paint. heads. If encountered, these
should carefully preserved.
Fixings of hammers and cranks are often loose
leading to uncertain hammer action. Setting up bell hammers and
cranks can take a long time.
Considering the need to prevent damage to bells
it is acceptable to replace plain bearings with self- The volume of sound produced
aligning sealed roller plumber blocks and to use by a bell is a combination of the
modern stainless bolts or coach screws to fix bell, how far the hammer falls,
hammers to the bell frame. its weight, the weight of the bell
and strength of the check spring.
Hammer check springs should be of an Altering the check spring
appropriate thickness, well fixed and adjusted to clearance and how much the
leave an adequate but not excessive distance hammer lifts are the only things
between the head and the sound-bow. that can be altered.
The hammers of a quarter train should be

carefully adjusted to produce an equal volume
from each bell.
Bell hammer The bell hammer must be held about 1/8” clear of Adjusting check springs can be
clearance and the bell by the checkspring to allow the bell to tricky; this is generally done by
strike position sound properly. altering the packing under the
on the bell. check spring that is normally
The bell hammer must strike the bell on the bolted down onto the hammer
soundbow; this is the convex curved section just frame.
above the mouth of the bell. Hammer faces are
generally at about 45° in this position.. Bending check springs is difficult
on account of their thickness; the
use of a hydraulic tube bender
makes the work easy.
Hammer pull- Hammer pull-off must be checked to make sure The pull-off is used by ringers to
offs. the hammer when pulled off, is clear of the bell. make sure the hammer is clear of
It must also be clear of the wheel, slider, stays, the bell whilst it is being rung. If
and the adjacent bell and all its fittings. there was not a pull off then a
swinging bell might be damaged
When the hammer is pulled off and the clock is by being struck by the clock
striking, the hammer lifting lever on the clock hammer when the clock strikes.
must not be touched by the lifting pins or cams
otherwise it may cause the pull off to become There are generally separate pull
unhooked. offs for the striking and quarter
striking, and another for a chime
if one is installed.
Conversions, Alterations and Repairs
Conversions, Alterations and Repairs

General Turret conversions, alterations and repairs are all Retain as much as possible of the
part of the history of the clock installation. history.
Verge and foliot Do not convert back to original. All these modifications are part
converted to of the history of the clock, so
anchor there can be generally no
escapement and justification in removing these.
pendulum.
Exceptions can be made where
Frames for end- work is badly carried out e.g. a
to-end train glaringly inappropriate hand on a
movements have setting dial, or a repair that is not
been changed to fit for purpose.
side-by-side
trains.
Thirty-hour
clocks
converted to
eight day by
adding a wheel
in each train.

Addition of an
external dial.
Dials converted
to two hands.
Upgrade of an
escapement, e.g.
to deadbeat or
gravity
Upgrade of a
pendulum to
compensation
pendulum.
Re-siting of a
clock resulting
in changes to
fixings and
leading-off
work.
Addition of a
setting dial.
Addition of
striking or
quarter trains
Addition of a
chime.
Addition of a Can still be done provided it is sensitive and A practical item to facilitate
setting dial on a appropriate and the frame is not drilled. setting outside dial.
30 hour clock
Reinstatement In the past, some automatic winders were badly
of removed installed; the barrels and great wheels were
parts. removed and discarded.
Re-installing the barrels and great wheels, when

they still exist, would be the best practice.
Repairs General Repairs are necessary work that
has been carried out to correct
breakage or wear.
New scape It is all part of the history of the clock. No need to try to hide work.
wheels
Better to retain original with the
Re-faced pallets least invasive repair as replaced
parts are often lost.
New train
wheels

New wooden
barrels
Re-bushing
Conservation
“If it is not practical, then is it not conservation.” This little adage should be kept in mind when
considering conservation. Conservation can be very simple, annual maintenance and the fitting of a case
and covers to the clock and motionworks if they do not exist.
Invariably every piece of work must be carried out within some economic constraint. Ideally the person
carrying out work will give a realistic estimate, and those commissioning the task will accept that if
something is discovered during the work then a revision of pricing may be needed. In reality,
organisations often want a job carried out at a fixed price; and sometimes, the lowest possible price.
This is particularly true of government organisations.
If the old clock at Salisbury cathedral were discovered today, it would be conserved and left just as it
was found so it would present a complete record of its history. In 1954 the clock was ‘restored’ and
converted back to verge and foliot. At this period, there was not the feeling for conservation, so what
was done then was done in the best spirit of that time. The work was done to an excellent standard and
the clock’s operation has given pleasure to thousands of people who have visited the cathedral.
Today there would be no question of converting it back and erasing the various alterations and
additions that the clock had experienced. If the need was to show what the old clock looked like,
drawings and a model could be made along with a working example of the verge and foliot. For
something as important as the Salisbury clock, a computer animation could show its original operation,
or a copy made.
Conservation
Maintenance Have the clock serviced annually. Essential.
Cleanliness Make sure the clock case and clock room are Why clean a clock and leave its
cleaned with a vacuum cleaner once a year. environment dirty?
Clock Make sure the clock case is in good repair and This simple low-cost option will
Protection. will not let dust in. go a long way to conserve the
clock.
If there is no clock case then have one made.
Bevel gears and Make sure the boxes that protect bevel gears, This simple low-cost option will
Motionworks. leading off work and motionworks are in good go a long way to keep the clock
repair and will not let dust in. running.
If there are no boxes then have some made. At least 50% of turret clock
stoppages are caused by
problems with the dials, leading
off work, bevel gears and
motionworks.
The most common stoppage is

caused by dirt in the
motionworks and leading off

work.
Documentation
All restoration and repair work carried out on a turret clock should be recorded. A card hung in the
clock case is fine to list periodic maintenance work, but anything else should be recorded with
photographs and a written report which would be presented to the owner. The restorer needs to keep
a copy since some organisations are not always good at filing such reports. Today the digital storage of
information makes the lodging of a report in a county record office a distinct possibility.
Writing an article for a local newspaper or magazine is a good way to put information in the public
domain. Another plan is to consider lodging a copy of the report with a local museum and the
Antiquarian Horological Society’s turret clock database.
Documentation
Reports A report should be made by the restorer / Customers need to be aware that
repairer to document what was done to the clock there is a cost involved in
installation. preparing a report and taking
photographs.
The report level reflects the age and rarity of the
clock concerned. The choice of report level is
also likely to be affected by the body
commissioning the work; a ‘Heritage’ type
organisation is likely to want much more detail
than a commercial one.
Report Basic Details to be given of… See above.
Level
The initial condition of the clock.
A list of work carried out.
Photographs would be useful.

Report Full Details to be given of… See above.
Level
The initial condition of the clock.
A plan of the restoration project plus an

explanation of the reasoning behind the decisions
taken.
A detailed list of work carried out.
Information on cleaning processes used.
Details such as materials used, paint makes, types

and colour codes.
A complete set of photographs, to illustrate the

report showing before and after conditions.
Close-ups of worn, damaged or replacement

parts to be included.
Replacement New parts should be stamped with the date and Painting new parts a different
parts name or initials of the repairer. colour may be useful technique
where a historical point should
be made
Maintenance
Regular maintenance is the best way to conserve a turret clock. Cleaning, lubrication and a check of
key issues are the main activities.
Maintenance
Frequency Once a year for a standard clock.
Twice a year for a large clock, say with 4 dials,

quarter striking and chime.
Cleaning Brush out all wheel teeth & pinions of the clock,
bevel gears and motionworks.
Wipe off excess oil & dust.
Clean glass panels in clock case.
Clean inside of illuminated dials.

Lubrication Lubricate all pivots on clock, leading off work, Rattle arbors end to end to work
bevel gears and motionworks. oil in, taking weight off train
whilst doing so
Lubricate all pulleys and check the pulleys do not
rub on the straps. Do not forget to include clicks
and great-wheel bore.
Lubricate clock escapement and ‘scape wheel
teeth.
Lubricate hammer lifting levers and let-off levers.
Lubricate all bell cranks, wire ends and bell

hammers.
Wheel teeth are not lubricated, but wrought iron

wheel and pinions may be lightly lubricated.
Automatic Service autowinder unit. Servicing an autowinder unit
winders may need specialist knowledge
Clean and lubricate roller chain. of that unit.
Check the overwind switching operates correctly.

Safety Check Check clicks and click springs on barrels.
Check clicks and click springs on flys.
If new to the clock inspect the state of the weight

stems as they can rust inside the weight cheeses.
Check for condition of weight lines.
Check for condition of weight line anchor points.
Check for condition of pulley anchor points.
Check for condition line termination on barrel

and in roof.
Report any safety issues concerning access to

the clock.
Lubricants
Consider modern dry lubricants for roller chain.
Oils
Every clockmaker has their own pet ideas about oils.
A turret clock oil needs to lubricate, to be sticky enough to stay in place and to have as uniform a
viscosity over a temperature range of -10ºC to 30ºC.
Slideway oil is specially formulated for use on machinery; one property is that it is sticky so it does not
run away. This makes it a good commercially-available type of oil for turret clock use. Slideway oil
comes in different viscosities that match those listed below.
Lubricating Oil Grades and Application

SAE ISO Use on small turret clocks Use on large turret clocks
20 48 Escapement
30 100 Wheel bearings Escapement
40 150 Barrel bearings Wheel bearings
50 220 Barrel bearings
Note:
SAE gear oil has a different set of numbers; gear oil is intended for high-pressure, high-speed operation
e.g. in car gearboxes and differentials. This is not suitable oil for turret clocks.
Synthetic oils like Moebius Microgliss D-5 are favoured by some. These are very expensive but do last
a long time and stay in place.
In older worm / spur gearboxes SAE 30 / ISO 100 is a common lubricant.
Greases
Castrol CL is a good all purpose grease, it is slightly sticky and flows well, it is light brown in colour.
This is water resistant and good for wire linkages, cranks and bell hammers.
Castrol LM is a good all purpose grease, it is more solid that CL, it is a light grey-brown in colour.
Good for rubbing parts on clocks e.g. letting off levers.
Castrol Moly is a molybdenum based grease for high-load situations and is black in colour. Consider
using on striking and quarter striking cams on large clocks.

Castrol Graphited grease loaded with graphite, it is black in colour. Consider using in the ends of hour
tubes to seal against the ingress of water. If the grease dried out then there is still the lubricating
properties of the graphite.
Copper loaded grease is used as an anti-seize compound; use on components when they are screwed
together; the copper content makes disassembly easier even if the unit has been damp. Use on minute
hand nuts, hour hand splines and bolts on bell hammers and bell cranks.
Automatic Winders
Automatic winders are used to do away with the necessity of manual winding. They are used where the
access to a clock is difficult, where the effort of winding is very heavy, where a clock needs daily
winding and when it is difficult to engage a person to do the winding. A frequently-met situation in
churches is where bells are re-hung, or the church is re-ordered necessitating the repositioning of the
clock. Often this has the attendant loss of weights and weight-chutes and the need for an automatic
winder.
One auto-winder unit is needed for each of the trains, going striking and quarter striking, so a three-
train clock will need three auto-winder units.
When a clock is manually wound any error in time would be corrected by the person doing the winding
and so a clock is unlikely to be more than a minute out during a week. With an automatic winder,
timekeeping errors can accrue to unacceptable limits over a month or so. Someone still needs to have
responsibility for the clock and to make the necessary corrections. They will also have to put the clock
back or forward for winter and summer time.
It must be remembered that a clock fitted with an auto-winder still needs proper regular maintenance as
do the auto-winder units.
There are two main types of auto-winder in use, the Huygens endless chain and the epicyclic. In each
type an electric motor re-winds a weight at regular intervals. In the event of a power cut there is
normally sufficient reserve to run the clock for several hours. Roller chain is used to transmit power
from the automatic winder to the clock. A sprocket is connected to an appropriate arbor in the clock.
Usually the weight used can be much less than the normal driving weight for the clock, but of course it
has to be wound up more frequently. Some automatic winders are mains-powered and generally have a
power reserve of 6 to 24 hours. Others run from a lower voltage powered by a 12V or 24V battery.
This can provide a reserve of several days or more that might be useful in outlying rural areas.
However, the high integrity of the UK supply in almost all areas means that the maximum power down
time is less than a couple of hours, exceptional weather conditions excluded.
In the Huygens endless chain version a weight hangs on endless roller chain. One side of the chain
provides driving power to the clock; the other is rewound by an electric motor when the weight has
descended to a certain level.
In the epicyclic type a differential gearbox is used. The box has two inputs and one output, the output
drives the clock through a sprocket and roller chain. One input is a small weight on a line wound round
a drum; the second input is from a motor. Periodically the motor rewinds the small weight after it has
descended to a certain level.
The endless chain is a simpler construction, but the epicyclic is a more compact unit, is easier to install
and can provide more power.
New Systems
New auto-winder systems should not be discounted on the grounds that they are new. Modern
technology and electronics have the ability to create small reliable drive units that are appropriate to
clocks.
Obsolescence
All manufactured parts become obsolete at some time. Electronic components can have a very short
time in production but a failing unit can often be replaced with a new unit performing the same function.
With the spread of European and international standards, items like roller chain, sprockets, ball races
and motor sizes have become standardized. This means that replacements will hopefully be available for
long into the future.
Motor-assisted winding
Motor-assisted winding is a system that is occasionally encountered that retains the originality of the
clock. In this method electric motors are used to wind the original weights via the winding squares.
Generally the winding operation is initiated manually, but some systems are automatic. However, health
and safety needs to be seriously considered in these systems along with the cost of powerful motor-
gearbox assemblies.
The Installation of Automatic Winders

The whole of an automatic winding system must be well organized from the installation through to the
design of the winder units.
The installation of Automatic Winders

General No holes are to be drilled in the clock, no parts In the past early auto winder
to be removed to facilitate the installation. installations often involved the
removal of barrels and great
Only clamping techniques are to be used to fix wheels.
sprockets, switches etc to clocks.
Winder position The auto-winder unit(s) should be mounted on a Remember that the unti has to be
purpose-made steel or hard wood frame. Clock serviced, so it needs to be
cases are frequently not rigid or strong enough to somewhere accessible.
bear all the forces involved.
Aesthetics The winder installation should look discreet with Don’t mount the winder inside
the winders not detracting from the appearance the clock movement.
of the clock.
Electrical An electrical isolation switch should be provided Enables the winder to be turned
Connection close to the winder. off for servicing.
Electrical Safety The clock should be provided with a separate It will be necessary to remove
electrical earth, this should be appropriately paint to ensure good contact:
marked as a safety earth. Bonding can be made this is an acceptable procedure.
to any appropriate fixing on the clock frame, e.g.
one of the bolts securing the clock to its bench.
Access The clock case or clock room should be kept Only people familiar with the
locked. installation are able to gain
access.
Safety Notice A safety notice ‘Machinery starts without
Warning’ should be displayed.
Overwind Automatic winders must have an overwind
Protection switch that disables the winder in the event of
limit switch malfunction.

Once activated, the switch MUST remain off
until manually reset
Direct Electric Not recommended. Might be a good solution where
Drive Going it leaves the original clock in
Train, position. Example a projecting
The escapement drum clock above a shop where
is disabled the a fit and forget solution is
‘scape wheel needed.
driven by a
synchronous
motor.
Direct Electric Not acceptable. Driving trains backwards is not
Drive Striking always an advisable practice.
Trains.
The fly is
removed, and
electric motor
connected and
operated by
switches.
Connection of Automatic Winders

Connecting the auto-winder to a clock is generally through roller chain and sprockets, though toothed
rubber belts have been used successfully. The choice of where the drive is applied to the clock is of
great importance since an incorrect choice can lead to damaging the clock.
Each clock is unique and there could be cases where these notes are difficult to implement. The best
judgment of a competent clocks adviser and professional horologist should be sought.
Connection of Automatic Winders

Best Choice (1) Where possible, the first choice is that the drive However, the drawback here is
should be on the barrel or great wheel arbor. In that for very large clocks, and
this manner, the clock continues to transmit some chimes and tune barrels,
power in the manner in which it was designed. heavy weights are needed on the
auto-winder.
By using gearboxes or lay-shafts

and additional sprockets and
chain, the use of very heavy
weights can be avoided, but then
the extra equipment takes up
more space.
Best Choice (2) The sprocket may be fixed to the second wheel The barrel just idles.
Going train: where the second wheel drives a centre wheel.
Second wheel Weight on autowinder is a
reasonable size.
Going Train. The sprocket should be applied to the great If the drive is applied to the
When the great wheel assembly. second wheel, then backlash may
wheel has lifting make the striking letting off
pin(s) to set off inconsistent and if there is a
the striking drive to the hands, backlash will

make the hands show the time
with less certainty
Going Train. In this case the drive has to be on the great wheel Where the second wheel is the
Second wheel is assembly. centre wheel there is usually no
the centre wheel easy way to connect a sprocket
since the arbor can be turned to
set the hands.
Putting the drive on the next

wheel up in the train causes two
problems. Firstly increased
backlash makes the hands show
the time with less certainty and
the wear issue of a pinion driving
a wheel needs to be considered.
Going Train Where the great wheel drives both a centre wheel
Barrel drives and a second wheel, the sprocket might be best
centre wheel applied to the great wheel assembly.
and second
wheel.
Hour Striking. The sprocket must be applied to the great wheel However, the drawback here is
Great wheel has and barrel assembly. that for very large clocks, and
lifting pins or some carillons and tune barrels,
cams. The drive must not be attached to the second heavy weights are needed on the
wheel. auto-winder.
By using gearboxes or lay-shafts

and additional sprockets and
chain, the use of very heavy
weights can be avoided, but then
the extra equipment takes up
more space.
There are examples where the

drive has been connected to a
second wheel arbor. The lantern
pinion has caused significant
wear to the great wheel.
Hour Striking. The sprocket may be applied to the second wheel The great wheel assembly will
Second wheel arbor. just idle as when the clock
has lifting pins strikes, minimal power is
or cams, required to drive the great
wheel.
Quarter striking Recommendation the same as for hour striking
Trains trains above.
The Council for the Care of Churches (CCC) issued a policy document in 2005 that states:-
1. Auto-winding should normally be applied to the barrel arbor.
2. In exceptional circumstances, and where this can be demonstrated to be for the benefit of the clock,
auto-winding may be applied to the 2nd arbor, but never any higher in the train.
3. Auto-winding must never be applied above any mechanical activity in the train.
Winding jacks are never to be used as part of an auto-winding installation.
The clock must always remain completely intact and the installation be capable of removal so that it can
be returned to manual winding.
This may be interpreted as….

1 Autowinders are generally connected to the barrel arbor.
2 Autowinders may be connected to the second wheel in the cases of…

a A large clock where the hammer lifting pins / cams are on the second wheel.
b A clock where the hammer lifting pins / cams are on the second wheel and the great wheel and /
or the second wheel pinion are worn.
Existing Automatic Winders

There are many automatic winders already installed on turret clocks. These have been fitted by
traditional companies, individual clockmakers and amateurs. The majority do good service but in time
motors burn out, switches fail and parts wear necessitating maintenance and repair.
In general an older automatic winder can be serviced by a competent turret clock restorer. Spares may
be available from the original maker, but if not, then there is nothing major that would stand in the way
of a good restorer.
An issue often met is “should the complete old automatic winder be replaced with a new one?”. If the
automatic winder is from a major manufacturer, or a standard design like a Huygens endless chain, then
an old worn automatic winder can be replaced with a new one. If the automatic winder demonstrates
some ingenious individual application then consideration should be given to keeping that winder.
Clumsy and inappropriate winders can be removed.
If a new automatic winder is installed in a church to replace an old automatic winder, then a faculty
application may be needed. This may require the automatic winder to be connected to the clock in a
different place, generally the barrel arbor.
Night Silencing
A night silencing device may be fitted to a turret clock so that the striking can be restricted to socially
acceptable hours. A few Victorian clocks were fitted with night silencing as part of their design, but
these are rare.
Most night silencers have one or more electric linear actuators that pull off the hammers to disable the
striking; the period when the clock can strike is set by a time switch and chosen as required. The clock
carries on doing its striking operation during the night but the hammers are inoperative. Silencers of
this type are easy to fit, do not require any special fixings and are obviously a modern addition.
Night silencers have been designed to hold up the striking train fly for the night hours and then release it
in the morning. For clocks with rack controlled striking this is not a satisfactory system since the rack
tails gets behind the hour snail and wears a grove in the snail. For clocks with count wheel controlled
striking the silent period has to be 12 hours so that the striking is kept in step.
Night Silencing
Pull off night Acceptable. The easiest, neatest system.
silencing.
Fly holding Not acceptable. The rack tail is likely to get
night silencing behind the snail and wear a
where striking is grove.
rack controlled.
Fly holding Acceptable. Period of silencing has to be 12
night silencing hours.
where striking is
count wheel
controlled.
Automatic Correctors or Automatic Regulators

An automatic corrector or regulator is a device used to ensure that a turret clock is always indicating
the correct time. This device is very useful when an automatic winder has been fitted and the
timekeeping may drift so the accumulated error after several weeks could be unacceptable. Automatic
correctors are usually fitted when access to an automatically-wound clock is poor, or no trained staff
are available to effect timekeeping changes.
Correctors for turret clocks have been used as long ago as the 1870s, but it is only recently that they are
commercially available and easy to fit. All use mechanical means to correct the clock.
Some devices will stop a pendulum and restart it after an hour or 11 hours in order to effect the change
between winter and summer time.
Automatic correctors are attractive since they offer a fit-and-forget solution. Remember the clock will
still need servicing. It is an advantage to have someone visit a clock from time to time, for example to
make corrections to a clock. In this way problems may be spotted before they develop; not only
problems with the clock but also issues like the ingress of pigeons and water.
Automatic Correctors or Automatic Regulators

Installation. All systems should be fitted so that they can be All commercial currently-
removed from the clock without any trace of the available correctors use
installation. mechanical means to correct the
pendulum. This means that they
will have a finite life and will
need specialist servicing.
Careful installation is needed to

avoid the pendulum weaving.
Maintenance. Maintenance is still needed, probably on an

annual basis. Mechanical parts will need to be
cleaned and lubricated and periodically back-up
batteries, if used, will have to be replaced before
they reach the end of their life.
Chimes
A chime is a turret-clock sized musical box that plays a tune or tunes at intervals and is usually let off by

the turret clock. Although an incorrect term, ‘carillon’ is widely used. A ‘chime’ or ‘tune barrel’ are
better terms.
Since chimes had large weights that needed frequent winding, almost all chimes have been converted to
automatic winding system or direct electric drive
Chimes
Care. Most of what applies to turret clocks can be
applied to chimes.
Particular care needs to be taken with the bell

cranks, wire and hammers, of which there will be
a great number.
Automatic Automatic winding is best installed on the great Problems with direct drive are
winders. wheel, barrel or on the tune barrel. overcome.
Do not install drive on second wheel or above.

Direct drive is Consider changing to automatic winding. Direct drive comprises an
installed. electric motor that is connected
to the fly arbor and the fly is
removed. The train is thus
driven, but since the carillon was
designed originally to drive from
a barrel, then backlash often
causes the tune timing to be
erratic.
Lantern pinions may have been

used as drivers which is bad
practice.
Guidelines for turret clock

automatic winders apply.
Electric Clocks
Electric turret clocks date back to the 1850s when Bain and Shepherd produced slave dials that were
driven from a master clock. There were probably only a few original installations and hardly anything
survives by these makers, so an early electric turret clock installation of this era must be preserved /
conserved at all costs.
From around 1910 three systems of electric clocks were employed, the Gent Waiting Train, the
Synchronome impulse and Gillett & Johnston’s half minute release. All use master clocks to provide a
half-minute pulse used to drive the movement behind the dial. These still give good service and
adopting the guidelines for mechanical clocks is the order of the day. Voltages used are usually low, so
are not hazardous.
Beware of early electrics like battery chargers or time switches since they may have exposed terminals.
The advent of the National Grid around 1930 meant that synchronous clocks could be commercially
produced. These soon were used in turret clocks.

Electric Clocks
Early electric Must be conserved at all costs. Involve a National museum such
clocks by as the Science Museum and the
Shepherd, Antiquarian Horological Society.
Bain,
Jones,
Hartnupp.
Impulse clocks Systems are reliable if properly set up and May need an electric clock
maintained. specialist.
A good knowledge of electrical clock system is Consult standard works on

needed. electrical horology by Hope-
Jones, Langman and Ball, Wise
and Philpott.
The Antiquarian Horological

Society has a specialist Electrical
Horology Group.
Synchronous Generally can be replaced if faulty.
electric motors
If pre 1939, they are likely to be rare and should
be conserved.
Many synchronous clocks were very well built

and can be re-furbished e.g. the T1 movement by
Smith of Derby.
Waiting Train Should be kept in the tower as a working item. These installations are very
clocks robust. Faults are usually
mechanical.
Made by Gents
Master clocks Preserve electro-mechanical master clocks that Master clocks are simple and can
drive impulse dials, waiting trains and half-minute easily be serviced by a
release movements. knowledgeable person.
Common makers are

Gents
Synchronome
Gillett & Johnston
Batteries, Replace as necessary with modern equipment. Old transformers likely to have
battery chargers Preserve old charger in tower. poor insulation.
etc associated
with master
clocks
Half-minute Should be kept in the tower as a working item. The clock train is released every
release clocks half minute. Has an integral auto
winder. Used to drive very large
dials.
Electro Should be preserved in the tower as a working Usually made by Smith of Derby
mechanical item. but also made by Synchronome,
strike and Gent and Gillett & Johnston.
quarter trains.
Faults almost always are in the
switching, battery, contactor or
incorrect setup.
Modern Lifetime limited by component obsolescence. A modern electronic installation
electronic employs a master clock that
clocks Replace if faulty. derives it time signal from radio
transmissions.
The dial is driven by an

electronic stepper motor, or
switched synchronous motor.
Motionwork is usually integral
with the stepper motor assembly.
Striking is achieved by an
electromagnetic hammer and the
controller can be set for night
silencing as required.
Risk Assessment Check Sheet

Check lists are provided of hazards that may be experienced. This ‘negative check list’ is divided into
the principal areas that concern a turret clock. These lists may not be exhaustive.
At all times the responsibility of the turret clock restorer is for their own safety, the safety of their
colleagues, the public at large, the clock and the building the clock is in.
Access
This refers to access to the clock as reasonably needed by the clock winder, or persons going to make
adjustments to the clock.
Access Safety Issues

Hazard Tick if a problem
Worn stone steps.
Dusty / dirty / slippery steps.
No hand rope / rail.
Wooden ladders in poor condition, missing or damaged rungs.
Vertical ladders.
Unsecured ladders.
Trap door that can fall on head.
Poor / no lighting.
Wormed flooring.
Holes in floor.
Unprotected holes for weights.
Raised platform for clockwinder with no rails / protection.
Exposed electric wiring / connectors.
Bird droppings & nesting materials:- slippery, health hazards of fleas and
respiratory problems, corrosive to metalwork, fire risk.

Weight Lines
Many clocks are driven by weights that range from around 50lbs to as much as half a ton. The weight
lines are made of steel wire, though sometimes rope is encountered. The free end of the line is attached
to the top of the weight shaft, often by screw eyes or U bolts. Often weights are enclosed in a shaft, but
not always.
Weight Lines
Rusty steel lines.
Lines that are polished smooth.
Lines with prickles on them.
Lines more than 10 years old.
Doubtful line attachment... e.g. just a knot.
Wormed / rotten supporting beams.
Unknown condition of screwed-in eyes.
Rusty lines particularly near attachments.
Line attachment points inaccessible.
Fibre ropes in poor condition.
Weights
The reality is that over the last 200 years the number of fatalities directly due to a turret clock is still in
single figures. Excluded from this number are secondary causes such as heart attacks and falls whist
climbing church towers.
Falling weights due to line breakage cause significant damage. In falling a weight could cause other
weights to follow, it could break out of weight chute, go through floors and injure people nearby.
Some clock installations have a box of sand or broken bricks at the bottom of the weight shaft to absorb
the energy of a falling weight. However, weights do not always fall straight.
Weights
Rusted centre stem.
Cheeses that could fall off.
Bottom of weight shaft used for cupboard space / electric meters, fuse boxes.
Public able to walk underneath weights.
No access for clockmaker to bottom of weight shaft.
In the event of a line failure, what would happen to the weights?
Dials
Many dials were installed in the Victorian era and now their fixings are corroded. Inspection really
needs access by scaffolding or a steeplejack. However, some idea may be gained by inspection with
binoculars or telescope.
If scaffolding is up the tower, get a turret clockmaker to remove the hands and service the motionwork.
Don’t ask them to do this the day before the scaffolding is to be taken down!
Inaccessible dials are normally accessed by trained persons who use abseiling techniques.
Dials
Rusted fixing bolts.
Rusted fixing staples.
Fixing bolts in rotten / wormed wood blocks.
Fixing bolts in decayed stonework.
Broken glass in illuminated dials.
Cracked cast-iron dials.
Bells and hammers

The bell hammers are definitely part of a clock installation. So often these are forgotten and in poor
states. Faulty hammers can cause much damage to a swinging bell and its wheel.
Bell Hammers
Fixing of hammers and cranks loose.
Check springs badly adjusted allowing hammer head to rest on bell.
Ringers’ clock hammer pull-offs using old rope, rusty wire.
Mobile phone transmitters

A new hazard to the turret clock repairer is the mobile phone transmitter. These transmitters are being
increasingly installed in church towers that offer space for equipment and a good height for aerials.
Churches often welcome these since they provide a good source of income. Radiation from
transmitting aerials is a hazard and one that cannot be seen. There should be no appreciable radiation
inside the tower, but if a dial had to be accessed from outside then checking with the transmitter
operator and church authorities is advisable before commencing work.
Phone installations take up quite a bit of space, if possible the clockmaker should be consulted to make
sure that the clock does not interfere with the installation and vice versa.
Faculties
The Church of England has a control system, the Faculty Jurisdiction that is roughly equivalent to
secular planning law, though control extends to a greater level of detail than with a secular building.
Any work to a church clock, other than maintenance, basic repairs, or replacement of wire lines, auto-
winder motors and switches, requires a faculty. Faculties are granted by the Chancellor of the diocese
(a legal officer) who is advised by the Diocesan Advisery Committee (DAC). Most dioceses have a
specialist clocks adviser, who advises the Diocesan Advisery Committee. The adviser is available to
visit and help parishes, and discuss proposed work with the clock restorer. No work should commence
until a faculty is granted.
Faculty Jurisdiction applies to all contents of a church, even if the ownership of the item lies elsewhere.
Faculty Jurisdiction therefore applies in the common case where the local council owns the church
clock.
Beyond Economic Repair

The statement “The clock is beyond economic repair” is one that can be misused. The strict meaning is
that the repairer has given a quotation or estimate, and the customer has decided that the expenditure
involved is beyond their current budget.
Beyond economic repair does not necessarily mean that the clock is a write off.
The term has been used by repairers who do not want to undertake the required work, who are unable
to undertake the required work for whatever reason, or who want to supply a simple more profitable
solution. Similarly the term has been used by owners or carers who find a mechanical clock not to their
liking or convenience and want a get out clause to justify their decision.
In the event of a repairer using the unqualified broad statement “The clock is beyond economic repair”
then further advice from knowledgeable persons should be sought, e.g. the Diocesan Clocks Adviser,
Quotations from other repairers should be obtained.
Almost all clocks are repairable at a cost. A commonly encountered flat bed clock that had been in a
tower fire might have a cracked frame and partially melted wheels. It is unlikely that to make a new
frame and wheels would be a solution that is either economic or desirable on conservation grounds. For
an unusual flat-bed clock in a similar state of damage, then perhaps the insurance cover might extend to
the required repairs. An ancient wrought-iron clock in a comparable fire might only need a bit of
straightening, new bushes and replacement wooden barrels.
Similarly, to be told the clock “Is of no value” should be questioned straight away. Turret clocks have
an antique value; as ever with an antique it is worth what someone is willing to pay for it, but the same
clock in different auctions could realize widely differing prices. Even so, several hundreds of pounds
are involved which is not a trivial amount.
The Future for Retired Clocks

In the event of a clock being retired a suitable home for it should be found. Churches often put old
clocks on display in a suitable part of the nave. A clock as an occasionally working exhibit generates
public interest. The downside of this can be that what starts as a proud exhibit cared for by the
parishioners can end up as an uncared for dusty piece of machinery and a nuisance to succeeding
parishioners. The clock is then at greater long-term risk. On a preservation basis the best place for a
church clock is to be left up the church tower where it once operated.
If a clock is donated to a museum, it is best to make such an arrangement as a long-term loan.

Museums are unable to put all items on display, so the donor would need to understand any
arrangements for displaying the clock. Museums are not secure depositories of artefacts. Private
museums can be broken up when the owner dies, retires or changes their collecting whim. Public
museums are not immune to problems as local authorities and central government change policies.
Funding is often a key issue and museums seem to be in favour having fewer artefacts on display.
A turret clock preserved in a museum may be run as a working exhibit. The museum would need to
make sure the weights are safe and also the fly, when it runs, cannot hurt anyone.
Choosing a Turret Clock Restorer

There are around some 30 plus individuals or companies in the UK that deal regularly with turret
clocks. Each one has a particular approach and there is room for the one-man-band, through the small
company to the large organization. There are four main features of a good restorer:
1 They have a passion for the historical and technical side of turret clocks
2 They have a record of satisfied customers
3 They provide good value.
4 They are technically competent.

When a quotation is requested, these can only be compared if they are based on the same requirements.
Sometimes, the requirement is not obvious and restorers will each come up with different proposals
and suggestions.
It is worth comparing the warranty offered and any applicable call-out charges. Beware of phrases like
‘If additional faults are found these will be charged…’ It can be certainly difficult to see a crack in a
cast iron wheel when it is in a clock and covered with oil and grime. However, the run of the mill
repairs should be covered by the quotation. Common exclusions in quotations that are quite reasonable
include building and carpentry work, the installation of electrical supplies for automatic winders and
lighting.
Qualifications for Turret Clock Restorers

BHI
The British Horological Institute runs exams in horology. These are general, and now the final grades
specialise in clocks or watches. There is no specific examination for turret clock work yet.
The BHI has a list of people who are professionally qualified to their standards, i.e. they are technically
qualified and have a proven track record. Some of these professionals do turret clock work. A
clockmaker who specialises in domestic clocks may not have the specialist knowledge to work on a
turret clock.
BHI member grades are as follows…

FBHI Fellow BHI. A qualified member with extensive experience.
MBHI Member BHI. A qualified member with experience.
Grad BHI Graduate BHI. A member who has qualified through exam but has insufficient
experience to be an MBHI.
CMBHI Craft Member BHI. An older grade indicating experience without qualification.
Associate Members are not allowed to use their membership of the BHI to imply any level of
competence.
Not everyone involved in turret clock work is a member of the BHI.
PACR
The Professional Accreditation of Conservator-Restorers (PACR) is an assessment scheme owned by
the Institute of Conservation (ICON). PACR enables qualified and experienced practitioners in all
conservation disciplines to achieve Accredited Conservator-Restorer (ACR) status; essential for
inclusion in the Conservation Register. The PACR is a relatively new organization and their web site
lists only a few persons who do turret clock work.
Not everyone involved in turret clock work is an Accredited Conservator-Restorer..
Customer Expectation
It is good business expectation to set customer and public expectation for a particular job. The sort of
issues involved are likely to be: the time the clock is out of operation, the sort of accuracy expected
when the clock is running and whether the clock will strike. Stopped clocks are traditionally left with
the dials set at 12 o’clock.
Value Added Tax (VAT)

The following notes give an outline, for more details see the HM Revenue and Customs booklet 708
Buildings and Construction, available on the HMRC website (www.hmrc.gov.uk).
Two issues arise when a VAT registered business does work on a turret clock
- does VAT have to be charged on the invoice, or can it be zero rated?
- if zero rating does not apply, can the VAT charged be recovered?
Zero rating
There are two occasions when work on a clock can be zero rated, i.e. no VAT is charged and the
business recovers any VAT on inputs such as materials.
- where the work is in connection with the construction of a new dwelling or other residential or
charitable building – this will be very rare
- where the work is an approved alteration of a protected building
A protected building means a listed building, or ancient monument, which is a dwelling or is a

residential or charitable building (for example an old people’s home or a church). Approved means
listed building consent or its equivalent (a faculty in the case of a church) has been obtained.
It is up to the business to issue an invoice showing the work as zero rated. Before doing so, the
following evidence must be held, usually in the form of a photocopy on file
- confirmation that the building is listed
- confirmation that the alteration is approved
- if it is not a dwelling but is a residential or charitable building, a certificate from the owner in the
form set out in booklet 708.
Even with all of the above, it is still up to the business to be sure that what is being done is an alteration,
not a repair.
Any other work (all repairs, and any work on non listed buildings) is VATable. This will usually be at
the standard rate (17.5%). There might be an occasion when a clock forms part of a house which is
undergoing a qualifying refurbishment, when the reduced rate (5%) will apply.
Recovery of VAT
If VAT is correctly charged there are two possibilities for recovery
If the building is owned by a business, then depending on the VAT status of the business, it may be
recoverable by the business as input tax.
If the building is a listed place of worship, it can be recovered by obtaining a grant equal to the VAT
from the Listed Places of Worship Scheme (www.lpwscheme.org.uk). Until 2006 this scheme did not
cover clock repairs, but it now does so.
If VAT has been incorrectly charged (because the work should have been zero rated) then the business
must be asked to amend the invoice or issue a credit note.
Organisations
Antiquarian Horological Society (AHS)
The AHS is a learned body dedicated to the widening and dissemination of historical horological
knowledge. It publishes a quarterly journal and books, and has a library. There is a specialist Turret
Clock Group and also an Electrical Horology Group.
AHS
New House
Ticehurst
East Sussex
TN5 7AL
01580 200155
email secretary@ahsoc.demon.co.uk
www.ahsoc.demon.co.uk
AHS members are not allowed to use their membership to promote their business.
British Horological Institute (BHI)

The BHI is a professional horological body, about a third of its members are professional horologists.
The BHI publishes a monthly magazine, has a library, good collection of turret clocks and runs a wide
variety of training courses including turret clock restoration.
BHI
Upton Hall
Upton
Newark
Notts NG23 5TE
01636 813795
email clocks@bhi.co.uk
www.bhi.co.uk
Council for the Care of Churches (CCC)

The CCC is a constituent council of the General Synod of the Church of England and one of its duties is
to advise Anglican churches on the care of the contents of churches. Specialist committees advise on
monuments, stained glass, wall paintings, metal work, organs, bells and clocks. The Clocks Committee
can award grants towards historic clock conservation.
Council for the Care of Churches

Church House
Great Smith Street
London SW1P 3NZ
020 7898 1866
email enquiries@ccc.c-of-e.org.uk
www.churchcare.co.uk
The Turret Clock Database

The Turret Clock Group of the Antiquarian Horological Society is building a database of turret clocks.
Information in the database is intended to help restorers when similar clocks need to be compared. It is
also intended that the database will provide a base for historical research.
A survey form that may be photocopied is contained in ‘The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook’.
Bibliography.
The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook
Chris McKay
Antiquarian Horological Society 1998.
Also available as an e-book. Download from

www.homepages.tesco.net.chris.mckay
FINIS


Turret Clock Guidelines

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Guidelines for the

Repair, Restoration, Conservation,

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 1 of 48]

Another suggestion is to produce an accompanying document ‘Commissioning Turret Clock Work’.

Next issue will probably be at the end of 2007.

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 2 of 48]

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 4 of 48]

The hyper-conservationist might want a turret clock to be stopped, to be preserved as a snapshot of

How this book came about

About the author

The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook

Health & Safety

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 7 of 48]

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 8 of 48]

Regular maintenance is also an excellent way to help conserve a clock.

Cleaning Turret Clocks

Suppliers to vintage vehicle restorers have a

3M make abrasive pads like household pan

Pipe cleaners (as used by pipe smokers) are good

Paint-stripper very effective on varnished oil, but

Fine wire wool attached to an arbor produces a

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 12 of 48]

Dry items in a warm chamber

May remove some paint.

When dry, wash off with

Wiping exposed ironwork with

Check to see if emulsifier can be

Wash off with detergent and

Pressure washers are very useful.

Wiping exposed ironwork with

Can etch brass.

Do not have any zinc-plated

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 13 of 48]

Soak cleaned items in water to

If you leave it for a couple of

‘Thames Soup’ will brighten

Good for items like pulley

For ancient wrought iron ask the

Dealing with Finishes

Dealing with Finishes

Rubbing it with silvering compound will certainly

If lacquered, then this can be removed with paint

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 16 of 48]

There is no problem with

If a brass dial is suspected of

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 17 of 48]

New ratchet teeth can be secured with a hex

Laser welding is a new technique

Alternatively use a modern split pin.

Application of thread locking adhesive

Make new ratchet wheel if many teeth are

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 18 of 48]

Notes on Thread Locking and Retaining

Loctite Grade Application

Old soft iron wires are worth

Use pre-stretched synthetic rope.

Expect that pulleys will be worn

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 19 of 48]

Leading off work and Motionworks

It is usual for the end of the

A tiny amount of paint applied

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 20 of 48]

Some wooden dials can be elaborate with