Dyeing And Printing

Defects
Analysis

Submitted by:-
Yash Vyas
A.P-V
Classification Of Defects
• Minor Defect –
• A defect is defined as minor
defect that is not likely to reduce the
usability of the product, but nevertheless
may negatively influence the sales.

• The minor defects can be untrimmed

thread-ends, slight dirt in a non-noticeable
zone which can be removed, etc.
Classification Of Defects
• Major Defect:
• A defect that, if conspicuous on the
finished product, would cause the item to
be a second. (A "second" is a garment with
a conspicuous defect that affects the
salability or serviceability of the item.
Dyeing Defects
Causes Of Dyeing Defects
 Due to Material:
– Material having dead fibers or other defective fibers.

– Left over of Chemicals after bleaching etc.

– Material not properly desized.

– Material not properly mercerized.

– Absorbency of the fabric not proper.

– Sticking of insoluble material on the fibers.

– Impurities are not removed properly.

– Uneven heat treatment.

Causes Of Dyeing Defects
 Due to Water Quality:
– More Hardness of water

– Water has metal ions such as iron.

– pH of water not proper

– Water having more chlorine

 Due to Improper Dye Solution:

– Improper weight ratio of colors, material and chemicals.

– Improper material to water ratio

– Improper filtering of concentrated colors.

 Barre

• Its horizontal shaded

band across the width of
the fabric.

• It may be caused by
variation in the size of the
filling yarn and by the
differences in tension of
either the filling or warp
yarns.
 Bleeding

• It’s a loss of color when the dyed

fabric is wetted or emerged in water.

• The water here, becomes colored and

may cause discoloration of other
fabrics.

• This is usually due to either improper

dye selection or poor dye fastness.
 Crocking

• It is the rubbing off of

the color.
• It may rub onto
another fabric.
• This may be due to
inadequate scoring
subsequent to dyeing.
 Shade Bar

• It is a horizontal band of
a different hue running
across the fabric.
• It may be caused by a
change of filling bobbin
in the loom or a loom
stop and start up
 Shading
• It is a variation in color
tone either
horizontally or
vertically.
• It is generally due to
uneven tension on the
fabric.
 Stained

• It indicates a
discoloration caused
by a foreign substance,
dirt, grease, oil or
sizing residue on the
fabric being dyed.
 Color variation
in yarn
• Caused due to lack of agitation in

the dye bath.

• This is a major defect. The yarn
was supposed to be uniformly
blue in color.
 Hole in sulfur
dyed fabric
• Caused due to tendering which
takes place because sulphur is
converted into sulphuric acid
after oxidation which is harmful
for the cellulosic fibers.
• This is a major defect. The defect
occurred after washing the
garment.
 Creasing

• Causes unleveled penetration of

dyes which in turn results into
unleveled dyeing, which causes
colour variation.
• Differs from crease streak in that
streak will probably appear for
entire roll.
• On napped fabric, final pressing
may not be able to restore fabric
or original condition. Often
discoloration is a problem.
 Off Shade

• It refers to color that doesn't exactly match

the standard or the prepared sample.
• This may be due to faulty dye foundation or
application or may be due to variation in dye
lot.
 Streaked

• This type of defect on the fabric indicates

either a stain or uneven dyeing caused by
folds in the fabric during the dyed process.
Printing Defects
Methods of Printing
1. Block

2. Stencil

3. Screen

4. Flat Press

5. Roller
 Flushing/Wicking

• Caused due to Low viscosity of

print paste.

• It occurs when the printed area

bleeds out into the unprinted
area. The result is a ‘haloing’ or
shadowing effect around the
outline of the pattern design.
 Bleeding

• Caused due to Low viscosity of

print paste
• It is major defect as it happens
throughout the fabric unless
the viscosity is corrected.
 Misfits

• A misfit is a print defect caused by improper alignment of the

screens. Also known as “out of registration, misfits leave
unprinted areas in the design.

• For example, a green leaf may overlap its black outline or

print over another color.
 Stick-ins

• A stick-in occurs when a small fiber or piece of lint gets stuck

in the screen opening.

• The result is a small unprinted circle in the design. A stick-in is

very difficult to see and often goes unnoticed during a long
run.
 Scrimps

• A scrimp defect occurs when the fabric creases underneath

one of the screens during the printing process.

• The pattern is then printed on top of the crease, leaving a

large unprinted area when the fabric returns to its relaxed
state.
 Banding

• Defect created by the print head’s movement over the substrate.

• Use of scanning print head, or a print head that moves back and
forth across the substrate in straight line placing drops of ink at
precise locations along the line.

• If the head is not properly aligned, or if the substrate advances

unevenly, the result is a slight horizontal “band” or line of
unprinted area.
 Unwanted pigment
marking on fabric

• Caused due to screen has holes

in it that should have been
covered. This could be because
of ageing of the screen and
eventual damage or just
improper exposure to light.
 Back Fabric Seam Impression

• Backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric being printed. If

there is a joining seam in the backing fabric, an impression
will result on printed fabric.

Color Smear
• The result of color being smeared during printing.
 Color Out

• The result of color running low in reservoir on printing

machine

Mottled

• Color applied unevenly during printing

 Crack or miss alignment in
transfer printed fabric.

• Incomplete transfer of design

from paper to fabric on transfer
printing due to removal of
transfer of paper while the
fabric was still hot.
Finishing Defects
 FABRIC FINISHING
• A series of processing operations applied to
gray fabrics to enhance their appearance and
hand, properties and possible applications.

• Play a fundamental role for the commercial

excellence of the results of textiles
 FABRIC FINISHING
• The most simple form of finishing is the
ironing or pressing on the fabric.

• In finishing , the fabric is subjected to

mechanical and chemical treatment in which
its quality and appearance are improved and
its commercial value enhanced.
• Physical finishing techniques(dry finishing
processes) or chemical finishing methods(wet
finishing) are used.
 FABRIC FINISHING
• Functional finish:
– Wearability, Hand, Mechanical resistance,
Easy care, Wettability, Washability,
Deformability, Anti bacterial, Anti fungal,
Soil-proof and Fire-proof ability

• Aesthetic finishes:
– Aesthetic looks
 Unwanted marks on
fabric.
• Oily stains with dust adhered to

surface which makes the stains

more prominent and difficult to

remove, due to contact with oil

or grease covered exposed
machine parts, careless handling
could be another cause.
 Decolorized patch on fabric

• Caused due to
– chemical spillage on fabric.
– Localized excess bleaching.
– Localized excess enzyme wash.

• Can be result into weakening of

the fabric.
 Pin Holes

• Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it

processes through tenter frame.

• Major defect if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough
to be visible in the finished product.
 Sanforize Pucker

• Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize.

• usually caused by defective spray heads.
• Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting
table.
• Difficult to detect during inspection on inspection machine
with fabric under roller tension.
 Bowing

• Usually caused by finishing.

• Woven filling yarns lie in an arc across fabric width; in knits
the course lines lie an arc across width of goods.
• Establish standards of acceptance. Critical on stripes or
patterns; not as critical on solid color fabrics.
 Pilling

• Pilling is a common fabric defect occurring on knitted and

woven fabrics.
• In producing a yarn, long fibers tightly-twisted produce a
serviceable yarn. When short stable fibers are mixed into the
yarn the result is a yarn that will not hold together. The short
staple fibers will separate from the yarn and curl up in a ball,
forming what is referred to as a pill.
• Pilling is accentuated by the friction of normal wear, washing
and routine dry cleaning.
 Water Spots

• Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long

before drying; color migrates leaving blotchy spots.

Selvage Torn
• Usually caused by excessive tension while processing through
tenter frames.
 Cuts or Nicks

• Caused by indifferent handling of scissors. snips or

mechanical trimmers.

Seam Tears
• Frequently caused by the turning equipment used to
reverse garments in finishing.
 Soil

• Caused by oil, grease or dirt. Often times originating

from a dirty work area or machinery not properly
cleaned

Streaks
• Markings caused by some types of turn boards or
defectively finished trimming.
 Inadequate Pressing

• Caused by excessive heat or pressure resulting in poor

pleating, fullness or twisting of a seam on garment surface.

Pressing Producing Shine on Fabric

• Usually caused by excessive heat or incorrect type of
pressing surface.
 Loose threads

• Loose threads will get wound on guide rollers forming ridges

in the processing machines and cause creases at these places.

• Also loose threads can cause problems of Dye /Print transfer

in a padding / Printing application
 Askewed or Bias

• Condition where filling yarns are not square with wrap yarns
on woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale
lines on knits.
 Folding Defects

• Garment not Folded to Specifications

• Garment not Folded with proper Materials:

Cardboard, tissue or other specified packaging materials
omitted

• Garments not Buttoned, Flys not Closed, Incorrect

Number of Pins
Thank You.