Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
INTERNSHIP REPORT
Submitted By:
NAME E-Mail ID
DANISH HASNAIN MINHAS Danish.engineer@hotmail.com
Pretreatment.M Mr.Mumtaz
Dyeing.M Mr Tariq
Finishing.M Mr.Hamid
Printing.M MR.Hamid
PREFACE
Yunus Textile Mills (YTM) is the latest addition to the Yunus Brothers
Group of Companies. YTM is a complete vertically integrated textile mill with
state-of-the-art machinery for the home textiles and the garment industry. It
is also a major contender in the home textile and garment export segment of
the Pakistani economy. The staff strength at only YTM unit is around 6,500
employees whereas the Yunus Group employs approximately 15,000 staff
countrywide.
• International trading.
Yunus textile mill basically deals with home textiles and has following
international customers:
Germany:
MGB METRO, KAUFHOF.
USA:
JC PENNY, TARGET,WALL-MART,MARMAXX,KOHL’S,SEARS,LINEN-N-
THINGS,BED BATH AND BEYOND
Italy:
GABEL, CAMAGNOLO
Products:
• Bed linen,
• Curtains,
• Kitchen Curtains,
• Table Covers,
• Blended Fabric,
• Cotton Fabric,
• Dyed Fabric,
• Grey Fabric,
• Printed Fabric,
• Bleach Fabric,
• Mercerized fabric,
• Finished fabric.
Planning:
Planning is the most important step of every stage of the process each
and every person involve in the process must know flow of the material
process and parameters .for completing the task accurately on time. A well
controlled network system which connect the planning section with each and
every department in processing and finishing.
• Grey planning.
• Post finishing.
Process Flow:
Customer order Merchandizing calculation
Process
Job Cards:
Basically there are three types of Job cards.
1. Master card.
2. Travel card.
3. Colored card.
Master card:
Master card is directly given to the department on which Job cards are
stapled.
Travel card:
Travel card travel with the fabric on each and every stage of the
process from starting till finish it guide the operator that what is the process
flow of the material.
Colored cards:
There are 4 different colored cards used for the following processes,
• White Bleaching.
• Green Dyeing.
• Yellow Sample.
• Pink Printing.
GREIGH DEPARTMENT
This is the first department of the wet processing industry. In Greigh department
inspection of fabric is done with the help of 10-100% inspection the fabric fault are
counted and grading of fabric is done.
Production:
Inspection / Grading:
• The main purpose of the inspection is to check the Greigh fabric
• for identify the faults.
Weaving Faults: -
• Double Ends, Loose Ends, Broken Ends, Wrong Dent/Draw, Loose Selvedge, Double
Pick, Miss Pick, Design Cut, Knots, Hanging Threads, Float,
Mechanical Faults: -
• Starting Marks, Rapping Marks, Mending Marks, Hole /Cuts, Oil
• Stain
Yarn Faults: -
• Cockled Yarn, Weft Slub, Slubby Weft, CEP, Count Variation,
• Hair, Jute, P Propylene, Black Ends.
Others: -
• Oily Weft, Sizing Stain, Hard Size.
• Minor Faults: -
• The faults can be removed easily in further processing such as in
• Scouring, Bleaching and Mercerizing etc.
• Major Faults: -
• Those faults that can not be removed in further processing are
• Major faults such as starting mark, rapping mark, whole etc.
1. Conveyor belt.
2. Screy.
3. Expanding rollers and guide rollers.
4. Winder.
5. Brush.
The fabric is placed on conveyor belt the pile is threaded through the tension rods and the
guide rolls works on the electronic sensing to run the fabric in center the fabric is than enter the
scray than the fabric is passed through the expanding roll which expands the fabric to run in
smooth through the machine. After it the fabric entered into the brushing section to brush the
contaminants and fluff and fly because they may create problems in next process especially in
dyeing and printing. The fabric is than rolled on a frame to make our required batch wheel rotaes
and measure how much fabric is wounded. There are two Tacoma machines installed in YTM.
Singeing is the removal of protruding fibers from the surface of the fabric in order to
improve their surface appearance and sharp surface for printing and dyeing and also to remove
the size material applied on to the warp yarns to avoid breaking of warp yarn due to mechanical
stress. If not done, this will disturb the appearance of dyed and printed fabric.
• Singeing position
• Flame intensity
• Fabric speed
Machine Components:
• Guide rollers
• Pre drying
• Pre rushing
• Cooling drums
• Post brushing
• De-sizing unit
• Winder.
1. Tension rod:
The purpose of tension rods is to give tension to the fabric and to Stay away from crease
formation.
2. Guide Roll:
Fabric is passed above the guide rollers for feeding the fabric in to the brush rollers.
Before singeing the fabrics is brushed to loosen and protruding fibers and moved rapidly
normally about 100m/min a suction system is installed to suck the fluff and ashes.
4. Singeing box :
After brush roller the fabric is moved over projectile of gas burner to burn protruding
fibres.4 burners are installed on this machine. The flame is composed of 70% of air and 30% of
gas. To avoid fabric yellowish shade that’s why we use blue flame.
5. Chemical Bath :
Later than the achievement of singeing the fabric immediately feed in to the chemical tank
to remove the size of fabric.
6. Winder :
The winder roll the fabric over the batcher and than it is left for 4 to 6
hours.
7. Cooling drums:
In singeing section the fabric passed over the cooling drums to down the temperature of
the fabric after burners. The water circulates inside the drums.
8.Donier rolls:
The donier rolls move in to and fro motion evenly distribute the fabric. The time,
temperature and pH must be maintained because the enzyme will be active when the conditions
are provided.
Parameters:
SCOURING;
The process of scouring is to make material highly and uniformly absorbent. (i-e the
removal of natural impurities like wax, fats, oils). When oils and fats are heated with a solution
of sodium or potassium hydroxide, they hydrolyzed into glycerol and the alkali salts of fatty
acid, these salts of fatty acid are soaps therefore his particular hydrolysis is referred to as
Saponification ,
BLEACHING;
Scouring removes almost all the impurities except natural coloring matters which are
ultimately broken down with bleaching agents. Bleaching is necessary for producing white
goods either as finished products or for dyeing pastel shades.
There are two scour bleach machines both the machines are continuous and gives average
2.5 production per day.
The machine is 2 step scour bleach machine with 1-1.2 lack production.
Machine parameters:
Caustic 48 Be
H2o2 50%
Stabilizer KEB
Pre washing:
100 lit water is present in 3 chambers of pre washing range. The
temperature of pre-washing range is kept 98C.
Chemical Pad-1:
The fabric is padded with scouring chemicals.
Steamer-1:
After padding with scouring chemicals the fabric enters the
steamer for reaction at about 103-105 C for 16-20 min.
Chemical Pad-2:
The fabric is padded with bleaching chemicals.
Steamer-2:
The fabric is again enters into the steamer for reaction.
Post Washing-2:
5 chambers present 4 chambers for hot washing at 98C and last
one for neutralization at 0C.
Dryer cylinders:
24 cylinder dryers are present to dry the fabric and at last the
batch is make.
Machine components:
Pre washing:
2 chambers for pre washing at 90-98 C.
Chemical padding:
Chemical padder in which scouring and bleaching chemicals are
paded.
Steaming:
The fabric is entered into the steamer 103-108 C for 22 min.
Post washing:
4 chambers in post washing 3. chambers for washing at 70-98 C
and last 1 for neutralization.
MERCERIZATION
OBJECTIVES
To increase luster.
Width control
• Mercerize chambers 1
• Stabilize chambers 1
• Washing chambers 5
• Speed 36 m/min
• Mercerize chambers 2
• Stabilize chambers 2
• Washing chambers 7
• Speed 60 m/min
Process:
After bleaching the Ends/Picks of the fabric are disturbed and also
fabric is shrink up to 5-10%, therefore to regain fabric original width and
Ends/Picks fabric is conditioned to be passed through the STENTER MACHINE,
it is also depends upon the material requirement. After pre-stenter the fabric
batch is placed on a mercerizing machine The fabric is passed through a
number of guide and Bow rolls. After that the material is dipped in to the
main section, which is a STRONG LYE containing chamber. The number of
chambers in mercerizing machine is different and depends upon the
manufacturer of the machine. In this chamber the material is continuously
treated with caustic soda of about 26-30°Be @ 60°c. The lye is showered in
zigzag manner the fabric is rolled over a number of padder. Load cell are
used to maintain tension to the coming fabric.
material is required. After strong lye the fabric is passed through weak lye
chamber. The temperature is increased up to 85°c and caustic concentration
is decreased up to 7-8°Be, this gradually reduction in caustic concentration
stabilize the mercerized material, then in the stabilizing section caustic
concentration is decreased up to 4-3°Be through counter flow of water. The
mercerized material is rinsed and washed and PH is maintained in a washing
range. The next stage after weak lye section is washing. In goller machine
there are four chambers as compare to FAISLABAD MERCERIZE. The
temperature of starting chamber is about 90-95°c and last washing chamber
contain room temperature. In continuous washing range of GOLLER
MACHINES, neutralization is also alone by using formic or acetic acid. After
neutralization the wet fabric is wound on a batch with the help of tension and
winding arm.
IMPORTANT FACTORS:
During operation there are numerous factors, which can effects mercerizing
process. Some of them are listed below;
Black spots or caustic spots can be produce on the fabric due to air
lock occur in the padder.
• Disperse
• Vat
• Reactive
• Pigment
Batcher
↓
Screy
↓
Cooling drums
↓
Padding
↓
IR ( pre-drying)
↓
Drying and curing chamber
↓
Cooling drums
↓
Screy
↓
Batcher
Brush :
The brush is present to brush any fluff and dist dirt contaminat.
Cooling cylinder:
A cooling cylinder present with water circulation inside to cool down the fabric if it
contains soem heat becasue dye cracking may take place.
Padder:
Dye and otehr dyeing auxiliaries are padded on to the fabric.We can do one bath or two
bath dyeing.
Airing zone:
Airing zone is used because some times the light GSM fabric has face back variation so
we use airing zone.
IR :
IR is used to dry the fabric upto 25-30% and alo to avaoid thermal shocking becasue we
are padding at low temperature and the dryin temperature is far away from padding temperature.
Chamber 1 120 C
Chamber 2 140 C
Working of Machines:
The fabric is unwound and then pass through brushing section here the fluff is brushed and
fabric is collected and stored in screy. fabric passes over cooling drums to cool down the
temperature of fabric because when we are dyeing PC fabric then after RC fabric is hot
enough.the fabric is then passed through Kuster padders, two types of pressure used in Kuster
padders hydraulic and neumatic.the central pressure is hydraulic and sides pressure is
neumatic.we can adjust the pressure of the padders .
Then there is given I.R system the temperature of I.R is about 60- 50 c. there are two I.R
installed the temperature of first I.R kept 850 c and second 800c.the function of I.R is to remove
30-35% moisture. the fabric is then passed through the thermos, 5 chambers are provided,
1-2 Drying.
3 Drying.
4-5 Fixation.
The fabric is then passed through cooling drums and finally fabric is collected on a batcher.
1-Counter flow
2-Static flow
3-Over flow
In pad steam there are two I.R for high production. We can plant one I.R for
normal production. In pad steam we use urea and steam for increasing the moisture but we use
steam in the replacement of urea because is less costly then urea also the urea damage the
environment. In pad steam there is an E control or economical control. E-control provide good
results but initially produce some variations.
Inlet:
The fabric is transferred from batcher to the J-screy for storing the fabric.
Kuster Padder:
Steamer:
The dyed fabric is entered to the steamer for fixation of dyes. Two chambers are
provided .the temperature of the steamer is 103-105C but the roof temperature kept higher about
108-109 C to avoid dropping effect.
Water Lock:
The function of the water lock is to stable steam to come out from the steamer and also to
avoid thermal shocks and also to avoid dyes to be diluted its temperature kept about 40-45C.
Washing range:
There are 8 chambers counter flow system is used. The chambers are used for number of
process a/c to the requirement of dyes by showering of different type of chemicals.
Cylinder dryers:
There are 20 cylinder dryers last 2 cylinders contain water and 18
cylinders contains super saturated steam 120 C.
Exit:
There is also provided a J-screy at exit to store the fabric and the fabric
is wounded on to the batcher.
PRINTING
In YTM there are 3 m/c of REGGIANI having max fabric length 130” and
97” and length is 40 m. on Printing 1 and 2 ,16 colors can be printed and
on Printing 3 12 colors can be printed at a time.
CAM CAD:
The design given by the customer may be on a paper or directly they given a sample fabric
to the cad cam department they scan the design in the computer.
Software used:
• Ram Set
• Photoshop......Lucher
• Stork
After the approval of the design by the customer design is sent to the engraving department.
Screen Coating:
The screen is made up of 100% nickel. Screen is coated with coated material SCR 64 or
SCR 61. Screen is coated upside down for 15-30 min at high temp over 180-200c and left for dry
about 10-30 min.
Screen exposing:
Contain black wax which fired on the screen. When light strikes on the screen
wax become hard.
• Ink jet.
• Laser exposing.
Laser light bombarded. SCR 102+101 coat is used only curing, exposing and endering.
Screen Developing:
The screen is developed which means only that parts where patterns are printed on screen
are removed from coating while other remains same
Hindering:
The screen is thoroughly washed normally to make sure the patterned area is open i.e.
Mashes are not closed by coating or another dust.
1. Standard 30,40,60,80
Repeats:
1. 640 mm
2. 819 mm
3. 914 mm
Recipe:
• Thickener
• Liquor
• Binder
• Water
• Pigment
For reactive:
• Urea
• Sodium bi carbonate
• Alginate
• Revatol
Process flow:
Components of machine:
• Entry
• Suction
• Flat rollers
• Trolley
• Printing zone
• Sensor
• Dryer
The fabric is passes through guide screen rollers to the suction area here the sucker sucks the
fabric fluff and dust particles. Flats are provided when we use knit fabric. The fabric enters into
the trolley where PVA is applied to stick he fabric with the blanket belt. The machine is provided
with an I.R system and cambered plate to give temperature to the thermoplastic glue. Then the
fabric enters into the printing zone. The fabric is sandwiched b/w the rollers and the blanket,
magnetic system of printing is used.
Color is dozed into the squeegee through pumps automatically. The first screen roller is to
press the fabric and the second gathers the remaining fluff. The printing starts from the third
screen. each screen prints a single color. the number of the screen depends on the type of design.
The sensor is used to control the speed of the blanket. The fabric than entered into compact HC
dryer 160-180 c. the dryer has 5 burners. The dryer has three passages air is blown into the
chambers 2 times. Finally the fabric is collected by a crank gear mechanism to a trolley.
There are three AGER present in YTM.2 for pigment fixation and 1 for reactive dye. The
main purpose of steam agar is fixation of the print. Three
processes can be done on the ager.300 meter fabric can run at a time. The
machine consists of 4 circulating fans and 2 exhaust speed of machine is
80 m/min.
• Pigments fixing
Steam (saturated)
• Disperse dyes fixing.
PROCESS:
Entry
Curing
Exit
The fabric entered into the curing chambers for about 80 min in loop form for the fixation.
Suction system is provided the rollers present in the machine for loop formation moves with the
help of chains.
FINISHING
The purpose of the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine
dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also
shade variation is adjusted.
Components of Machine:
• Padders
• Weft straightner (Mahlo)
• Burners
• Heat recovery
• Attraction rollers
• Circulating fans
• Exhaust fans
• Winder
• Clips
• Pins
• I.R
• Cooling drums
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the screy and then it is passed
through the padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade
variation is corrected. The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner)
the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is
griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a
disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching of
the pins are greater than the clips. These clips and pins are joined to endless
chain. There are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber
contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air. The
circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans
sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are provided to
stretch the warp yarn.
• PC 210 c
• Cotton 110-130 c
•
After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.
White,set/wet, set/print,dyed
STENTER 6 80000
finish
• To upgrade the fabric hand and to impart a smooth silky touch to the
fabric.
The mechanical finish is done for softness and shining of the fabric or
stiffness according to the nature of the chemical, this process is done after
the chemical finishing as per buyer requirement. Speed of the machine is 10-
100 m/min.
Components of machine:
• Winder
• Metal detector
• Seam detector
• Rollers (cotton, reclon and steel)
• Anti static rod
• Oscillating roll
• Batcher sensor
• cooling drum
Seam detector:
Function of seam detector is to bypass the seam.
Metal detector:
Metal detector to detect metal partials.
Small winder:
When we have to calendar short width fabric and we can also run short
width fabric with long width fabric.
Oscillating roll:
To avoid selvedge overlapping on batcher.
Cotton roll:
For soft finish the fabric is passed through cotton bowl. This roller is
made up of cotton.
Steel roll:
To give smoothness and luster. The temperature is provided to steel
roller about 32-200 c with help of electric heater as we increase the
temperature shining will increases only used for cotton CVC and percale and
PC.
Reclon roll:
When fabric passes through Reclon roll and steel roll giving smooth and luster effect is
generated. When it runs with steel roll and reclon roll and cotton roll dull effect is generated.
When it runs b/w steel and reclon gloss effect is generated.
Cooling drum:
Cool down the fabric water circulates inside the cooling drum.
SANFORISING MACHINE:
Production / day70,000
Lab dip.
RND.
Physical.
Online Q.C.
Lab Dip:
A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. Several lab dips may be
submitted for feedback until the standard is achieved and the lab dip is approved. There is also
now a machine used to read lab dips called a "spectrometer” which will give the same feedback.
As not everyone sees color as well as the next (and you can be tested to see how well you see
color) a machine can take out human error.
The main functions of RND department are to check all the running chemicals used in the
industry and also to find our troubleshooting and investigate the problem and solve it. They also
check new chemicals available in market which fulfills the running chemical and it is cheaper
than the running one. Important tests conducted by RND portion,
Whiteness.
CMC.
Formaldehyde test.
Water testing.
Core pH.
Troubleshooting.
Degree of de-size.
Absorbency test.
CHEMICAL TESTING:
WASHING TEST:
CO1 CO6
CO1 and CO2 are for the leather garments
CO4 for the Vat dyes
CO6 for the fabric
Recipe:
EC soap- 4gm/l
Soda ash- 1gm/l
Sodium perborate 1gm/l
SHIRINKAGE TEST:
Sample Size:
For ISO=50x50 cm
For AATCC=38x38cm
Sample is washed in its washing machine and dried. Then, its size is checked and change in size
is noted. Both warp and weft shrinkage is tested.
pH METER:
PERSPIRATION TEST:
Perspiration test is performed for both acidic and alkaline mediums.2 samples that are
sandwiched between the multi-fiber fabrics are dipped in acidic and alkaline solution. then these
fabrics are placed on perspirometer under a weight of 5 kg for 4 hours for ISO and 6 hours for
AATCC. Then the stains on the multi-fabric are matched with the grey scale.
HARDNESS TEST:
Iron particles present in fabric create pinholes after bleaching and they appear visible
after dyeing. In order to detect % of iron particles in fabric, 10% of potessium thiocyanide and
5% of nitric acid are used. Dip the fabric in nitric acid for 5 to 10 min, dry then dip in potessium
cyanide solution. The iron particle on the fabric will appear as red spots and are easily detected.
BLEND RATIO:
VC blend,
60% sulphuric acid at 20 C for viscose and for cotton 70% sulphuric acid is used at 38C.
PC blend,
Cotton is dissolved in sulphuric acid because metacresol is hazardous to use as it is
carcinogenic.
PURITY OF CAUSTIC:
The % purity of Caustic used by titration with acid and by using phenophtalein as an
indicator.
Spectrophotometer meter:
Physical Testing:
All the physical tests on a textile sample or material is conducted in physical portion of
the lab. The tests conducted by the physical portion are,
Tensile strength
Seam.
Abration
Air permeability.
Pilling.
Appearance.
Rubbing fastness.
Washing fastness.
Color fastness.
Water fastness.
Perspiration fastness.
Dry cleaning fastness.
Light fastness.
Random Tumble Pilling Tester RPT is using UPC controller, to determine the pilling and
fuzzing characteristics of textile fabrics. Stainless steel impellers rotate within individually
testing chambers constantly tumbling test fabrics against cork liners. Compressed air is also
injected into the chamber to assist the tumbling action.
Used for testing abrasion resistance of wool or blend of wool's woven, knitted and non
woven fabric in specified pressure, also used for testing balling in light pressure for most fabrics,
especially for wool woven fabric. Controlled by microcomputer, displayed by LCD, printing
reports, simultaneity show accumulative used times of every standard abrasive and working state
of each test head.
Whirlpool:
Whirlpool Washing Machine is recommended by AATCC for AATCC test methods requiring
repeated home laundering.
Standard:
AATCC 135
Gyrowash:
This tester is an instrument for fabric, cotton, wool, linen, silk chemical fiber, knitting and
woven fabric etc to test the fastness to washing, to milling and to dry clean. Also it can be
applied to exam the fastness of the colorant. So it is necessary apparatus for textile quality
monitor department.
The tensile strength test is a modified grab test for determining the breaking strength and
elongation/stretch of fabrics
Srandards:
ISO 5034,1393
ASTM 5035
Digital Tear Tester Elmatear: simplifies and accelerates routine tear testing. Simply select
the unit of measurement and the number of plies and you are ready to test. The test results are
displayed digitally. No calculations are required.
Air Permeability Tester for textiles consists of an arrangement for holding the test
specimens between two flat faces so as to expose a known area to the flow of air through it, a
vacuum system to draw air through the exposed area of the test specimens.
GSM Cutter:
This instrument is a circular fabric sample cutter with which a uniform
circular fabric is cut without measuring. The specimen which is cut with the
help of the Fabric GSM Cutter is 100 cm2 areas. This instrument is complete
with a piece of cutting board and 12 spare blades.
Light box:
light box is used to check the fabric in following conditions;
• day-light
• incandescent
• back-light
• U-V light
Folding
Taking samples from each and every roll and faults are detected and the grading is done
then shade is forwarded to the shading department. The rolls are separated in shade wise. The
defected fabric is separated. The grading is done a/c to the customer requirement.
The rolling machine is used for making the rolls of A and B grade fabrics and other graded
fabrics are separated and folded on flat folding machine.
Utilities
YTM has its own mill utilities based on latest technologies and work 24
hours to supply and complete the energy requirements of the mill. Average
load of the mill per hour is 2.5-3.2.the utilities are as follows,
• Turbine.
• Generators.
• Boilers.
• Compressors.
• RO plant.
• Caustic recovery plant
Turbines:(TURBO MAKE):
Engine (Generators):
Boilers:
DDFC=8 TPH
Ruston=5 TPH
Compressors:
1. softener:
• use KDA water it contains some hardness.
• The water is stored in a tank.
2. RO plant:
• Two RO plants.
• Well water is used in Ro plant.
Process:
Pretreated water is pumped into the membrane housings along the membrane surface. Pure water
is permitted to pass through the membrane while ionic, organic, colloidal and bacterial
contaminants are swept away in a concentrated solution. Consequently, a reverse osmosis system
always creates two continuous exit streams: pure water (permeate) and brine (concentrate).
Normally 50 to 75 percent of the feed water can be recovered as permeate.