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Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn,
cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye.
HISTORY
Early evidence of dyeing comes from India where a piece of cotton dyed with a
vegetable dye has been recovered from the archaeological site at Mohenjo-daro
(3rd millennium BCE). The dye used in this case was madder, which, along with
other dyes—such as Indigo—was introduced to other regions through trade .
Contact with Alexander the Great, who had successfully used dyeing for military
camouflage, may have further helped aid the spread of dyeing from India.
DYE TYPES
For most of the thousands of years in which dyeing has been used by humans to
decorate clothing, or fabrics for other uses, the primary source of dye has been
nature, with the dyes being extracted from animals or plants. In the last 150
years, man has produced artificial dyes to achieve a broader range of colors, and
to render the dyes more stable to resist washing and general use. Different
classes of dye are used for different types of fiber and at different stages of the
textile production process from loose fibers through yarn and cloth to completed
garments.
Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, nylon and protein fibers such as wool and
silk are dyed with acid dyes, polyester yarn is dyed with disperse dyes. Cotton is
dyed with a range of dye types including vat dyes which are similar to the ancient
natural dyes and modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes.
PURPOSE OF DYEING
Dyeing can be done during any stage in the manufacture of textile product.
Textiles may be dyed as fiber, as yarn, as fabric, or as garments, depending on the
type of fabric or garment produced. Description of various stages and the reasons
for their uses are given in the following sections. Dyeing will occur in the most
efficient stage which will meet the requirements of the intended end uses.
YARN DYEING
Yarn dyeing, as its name implies, is the dyeing of yarns before they have woven or
the knitted into fabrics. The main reason for the dyeing of yarn is for the ultimate
production of multi coloured designs such as plaids, stripes, and checks. Some
typical yarn-dyed fabrics are multi coloured gingham, madras, brocade, and multi
coloured weft knits. Yarn dyeing ia also used in special cases for solid-colour
fabrics. Yarns may be dyed in different forms:
Skeins
Packages
Beams
Used for fabrics with stripes, checks, plaids, and other multi-coloured
patterns.
SKEIN DYEING
Skein dyeing consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks (skeins) of yarn
into dye vats that are especially designed for this purpose. Soft, lofty yarns, such
as hand knitting yarns, are usually skein dyed. Skein dyeing is the most costly
yarn-dye method.
PACKAGE DYEING
BEAM DYEING
Beam dyeing is a much larger version of package dyeing. An entire warp beam is
wound onto a perforated cylinder, which is then placed in the beam dyeing
machine, where the flow of the dye bath alternates as in package dyeing.
PIECE DYEING
The dyeing of cloth after it has been woven or knitted is known as piece dyeing. It
is the most common method of dyeing used. The various methods used for this
type of dyeing include :
Jet dyeing
Jig dyeing
Pad dyeing
Beam dyeing
When heavy or densely woven fabrics, or tightly twisted yarn fabrics, are pieced
dyed, sometimes the dye does not penetrate into the centre of the yarn material.
The condition, known simply as poor penetration, leaves the fibers in the center
of the yarn, or at fabric interlacing, lightly coloured or un-dyed. It can be
recognized by taking some yarns out of the fabric, untwisting them, and observing
the non uniform colour of fibers in the twisted yarn. There is no problem with
inghowever, fabrics such as uniform clothing, children’s wear, upholstery fabrics,
and other fabrics subjected to hard use take on a faded appearance at points of
wear, and white, un-dyed fibers shift towards the fabric surface. For this reason,
many high-quality, heavy-weight, and densely woven fabrics, especially furniture
though more costly, eliminates the problem of poor dye penetration.
JET DYEING
In the jet dying process, the fabric being dyed is circulated in a rope form through
a closed-system dyeing machine on a jet flow of the dye bath. The fabric is moved
by the fast moving dye bath. Since no pressure and little tension occurs with the
material, even delicate fabrics can be dyed using this process. Most jet dyeing
machines can be pressurized and are capable of achieving dyeing temperatures
exceeding the boiling point of water.
JIG DYEING
The jig dyeing process involves treating fabric in an open width. Fabric is not
immersed in a dye bath, but rather is passed through a stationery dye bath. Upon
completion of the first pass, the fabric reverses and is passed again through the
dye bath. To produce darker colours the fabric must pass through the dye bath
more times than when a lighter shade is desired.
PAD DYEING
Pad dyeing is accomplished with a machine called a dye pad. Its appearance
somewhat resembles a giant clothes wringer. Fabric in open width first passes
through the dye bath, and then through the rollers where the dye solution is
squeezed into the fabric.
BEAM DYEING
Beam dyeing for piece dyeing is practically identical to beam dyeing used for
yarns. Fabric is wound on to a perforated cylinder where the dye bath is forced
through the fabric layers. The fabric remains stationery.
GARMENT DYEING
Garment dyeing is the dyeing of completed garments. The types of apparel that
can be dyed are mostly non tailored and simpler forms, such as sweaters, sweat-
shirts, T-shirts, hosiery, and pantyhose. The effect on sizing , threads, zippers and
snaps must be considered. Tailored items, such as suits or dresses, cannot be
dyed as garments because the difference in shrinkage of the various components
and linings distort and misshape the article.
Printing is a process for reproducing text and image, typically with ink
on paper using a printing press. It is often carried out as a large-scale industrial
process, and is an essential part of publishing and transaction printing.
History
The development of printing was preceded by the use of cylinder
seals in Mesopotamia developed in 3500 BC, and other related stamp seals. The
earliest form of printing waswoodblock printing, with existing examples
from China dating to before 220 AD[1] and Egypt to the 4th century. Later
developments in printing include the movable type, first developed by Bi Sheng in
China[2], and the printing press, a more efficient printing proccess developed
by Johannes Gutenberg in the 15th century
2. DISCHARGE PRINTING
3. RESIST PRINTING
Direct Printing
In this type of printing dye is applied onto the fabric by carved block, stencil,
screen, engraved roller etc.The dye is imprinted on the fabric in paste form
and any desired pattern may be produced.
Example:-Block Printing, Roller Printing, Screen Printing etc.
Fig: Direct Printing
DISCHARGE PRINTING
In this method the fabric is dyed and then printed with a chemical that will
destroy the color in designed areas.
Sometimes the base color is removed and another color printed in its place.
Fig: Discharge Printing Diagram
RESIST PRINTING
In this method bleached fabric are printed with a resist paste ( a resinous
substance that cannot be penetrated when the fabric is immersed in a dye ).
The dye will only affect only the parts that are not covered by the resist paste .
After the fabric has passed through a subsequent dyeing process the resist
paste is removed, leaving a pattern on a dark background
Types of Printing
BLOCK PRINTING
ROLLER PRINTING
SCREEN PRINTING
FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
ROTARY PRINTING
TRANSFER PRINTING
STENCIL PRINTING
DIGITAL PRINTING
BATIK PRINTING
TIE & DYE etc.
BLOCK PRINTING
DISADVANTAGES
Involves much manual work
Method is slow and therefore low
output
Good skilled labors needed for multi
color design
Fine and delicate designs hard to
ROLLER PRINTING
produce
It is the machine method of printing designs on cloths by engraved rollers. The
design is engraved on the surface of a metal roller, to which dye is applied, and
the excess is scraped off the roller's surface, leaving dye in the engraved
sections. When it rolls across the fabric, the dye on the roller transfers to the
fabric.
DISADVANTAGES
Not economical for short run of
fabrics.
Difficult to produce blotch designs.
Repeat of design limited to the size of
the rollers.
Setup cost of roller printing m/c is high
STENCIL PRINTING
DISADVANTAGES
Good design is difficult to obtain.
Process is laborious.
Not suitable for large scale production.
SCREEN PRINTING
It involves the application of the printing paste through a fine screen placed in
contact with the fabric to be printed. A design is created in reverse on the
screen by blocking areas of the screen with a material such as an opaque paint.
The screen is then placed over the fabric and the printing paste is forced
through the open areas of the screen using a flexible synthetic rubber or steel
blade known as a squeegee.
DISADVANTAGES
For high production large no. of tables
required.
Delicate shading difficult to obtain.
Screen clogging may be there in fine
areas.
FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
DISADVANTAGES
A big setup required for more number
of screens
Prints with more colors may not be
possible
Printing
ROTARY paste not evenly controlled
SCREEN PRINTING
Rotary screen printing involves a series of revolving metal cylinder , each with
revolving screens, each with a stationary squeegee inside which forces the
print paste onto the fabric.
Twenty or more colours can be printed at the same time.
The process is much quicker and more efficient than flat screen printing .
• BATIK PRINTING
BATIK PRINTING
It is same as that of batik printing but here the dye is resisted by knots that are
tied in the cloth before it is immersed in dye bath. The outside of the knotted
portion is dyed, but inside is not penetrated if the knot is firmly tied.
This gives a characteristic blurred or mottled effect .
DISADVANTAGE
Costly
Laborious
Time taking
Skilled labour required
DIGITAL PRINTING
• This includes :-
Electrostatic printing
Photo printing
Differential printing
REFERENCES
Mock, Gary N., Fundamentals of Dyeing, published by North Carolina State University,
Raleigh, North Carolina, 1997.
Wikipedia, http://www.wikipedia.com/
Miles, Leslie W.C., Textile Printing, 2nd edition, Society of Dyers Colorists, Bradford,
England, 1994.
Tincher, Wayne, Hu, Oui-Ang and Li Xiofei, “Ink-Jet Systems for Printing Fabric,” Georgia
Institute of Technology, Atlanta, Georgia, 1996.
Kool, RJM, Rotary Screen Printing in the Nineties, Worldwide Competition and a
Competition
Edge, 1998.
Storey, Joyce, The Thames and Hudson Manual of Textile Printing, Thames and Hudson,
LTD, London, England, 1974.
Miles, Leslie W.C., Textile Printing, Dyers Company Publications Trust, Bradford,
England, 1981.