Amsterdam in Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Amsterdam
Autumn 2015
Autumn Events
Film screenings, rock

music and bock beer
Holland Highlights
A guide to the nations
best sights
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E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Lifestyle Directory
48
Spas, sports and other useful information
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Hotels
50
Beds for backpackers and business executives
Foreword
Amsterdam for kids
Holland Highlights
A few words from the editor
Arriving & Getting Around

How to get to and from your hotel
Amsterdam Basics
8
10
From steaks and Dutch stamppot to sushi
Cafs
18
Hipster hangouts and coffee houses
Nightlife
20
Bars, pubs and clubs
Gay Amsterdam
28
A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam
Coffeeshops
30
Where to smoke responsibly
Sightseeing
34
Museums, churches and the like
Shopping
Boutiques, souvenir shops and shopping centres
58
Cheese markets, canals and windmills
Getting to grips with Amsterdam
Restaurants
54
Interesting ways to spend the day with your offspring
44
List of small features

City centre tour
9
Movember 13
Order an uitsmijter
17
Caf confusion
19
London Calling
21
Bock Beer Festival
23
Red Light streets
25
Documentary Film Festival
27
Bet van Beerens caf
29
Bitter... balls?
30
Embrace the haze
31
Dutch souvenirs
45
Ajax football matches
48
Miraculous Amsterdam
51
Maps & Index

Old centre map
Amsterdam map
Venue index
55
56
59
Explore Amsterdams
Grachtengordel this autumn
facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Autumn 2015
Foreword
Although wet and windy autumn days can seem daunting, the fall is actually our favourite season to spend in
Amsterdam. The streets and canals seem less congested,
queues at museums appear to be shorter and nectar-like
bock beer returns to the taps our favourite watering holes
around town. In fact, the arrival of this brown elixir of life
is even celebrated with its own festival each year at the
Beurs van Berlage building each October (see p.23). Its also
the perfect time of the year for a stroll along the citys legendary Grachtengordel, which will be flanked by trees in
all their yellow-leaved glory. If, however, youd like to see a
little more of this nation on the North Sea, then take a look
at our Holland Highlights on p.58 and find the daytrip that
suits you best. Naturally, this guides restaurant, caf and
nightlife chapters are full to bursting with unbiased reviews
that will help you avoid the tourist traps and discover the
perfect bistro, diner or upmarket establishment to experience Amsterdam.
Publisher
E S S E N TI A L
In Your Pocket Netherlands
C I TY G U I D E S
Ammerstraat 25, 5324 CA, Ammerzoden, The Netherlands
ISSN 2211-2480
Company Office & Accounts
Tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, amsterdam@inyourpocket.com,
www.inyourpocket.com
Amsterdam In Your Pocket is printed by SIA DuGa in the EU
Editorial
Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld
Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis
Research Theo Leerintveld
Photography M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy
of Amsterdam city governments and Amsterdam Marketing.
Cover Martins Zaprauskis
COVER STORY
Sales & Circulation

Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46,
theo.leerintveld@inyourpocket.com
This issues cover photo was

taken at our favourite market,
the so-called Noordermarkt,
which takes place on the square
of the same name in the Jordaan
neighbourhood every Saturday from 09:00 - 16:00. You can
buy plenty of Dutch cheese and
even seafood like oysters, which
can be enjoyed on the spot with
a glass of Champagne. Dozens of other stalls sell anything from clothing to antiques and knick-knacks.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode
of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the
Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.
BY PLANE
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than
10km southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest
airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers
each year, but its easy to navigate and pleasantly efficient.
Youll find your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and
luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear
customs youll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essentially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre
and part food court. Although located under one roof, the
building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4.
Just walk straight to the main hall to find most services that
you might need including transportation to the city. An official tourist information centre is available in terminal
2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and lockers are
available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers
cost 6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins.
You can also leave your bags at the storage office for the
same price, but its only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small
bank of lockers is also available on the ground floor between terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges
and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any problems
getting money.
Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to the
far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and youll
find a Travel Taxi office. Buses and hotel shuttles are
available outside the terminal. Just walk straight through
the arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside with the
names of the citys biggest hotels that operate their own
shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which is clearly
marked at the stop. You can also take the blue Connexxion
Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle that stops at a
number of large hotels along a planned route. A very long
list of hotels is posted at the stand. A single ticket costs 17
and children 4 - 14 travel for half price. If your hotel isnt
listed its possible that it can be arranged. City bus Nr.197
departs regularly for Leidseplein in the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of other destinations
in Amsterdam.
If youre like most people you wont even leave the terminal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that
will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 20 minutes
for only 4. Just walk into the main hall to find a list of train
departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you can
purchase one from one of the many ticket machines with
a credit card. Just choose English as your language on the
touch-screen then choose the following steps: single, destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and the
number of tickets. Choose your method of payment, insert
your credit card, enter your PIN, confirm the price and then
wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the Central
Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train tickets
at the Train Tickets & Services office but youll have to pay
an extra 0.50.
BY TRAIN
Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that
was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achievement in its own right, it was later criticised by urban planners for having cut off the city of canals from its most essential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many
of the citys historic cafs were afforded an impressive vista
of ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. Today, the massive edifice and its surroundings are a bit of
a mess as the station is being renovated and retrofitted to
accommodate a controversial new metro line.
Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk
downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands,
kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex
(www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 22:00) currency exchange and an ATM are available
near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and
4/5. For toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to platform 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger
King, Ben & Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas
(1st Class) and a bar, Caf Balkon.
For tourist information exit the building on the
city centre side and walk across the street to the official
tourist information centre. Lockers for luggage storage
are located on the far east side of the station, but it might
take a while to find an empty locker and even more time to
figure out how to use one. You can only pay with a credit
card. Place your belongings in a locker and close
the door. Find the nearest
keypad that corresponds
with the numbered section
of lockers you have chosen.
Confirm that the locker
number listed is the locker
you have chosen and then
swipe your credit card. Just
stick it in the slot and pull
it out. A ticket good for 24
hours will be printed. When
you want to remove your
luggage just place the ticket into the slot and the door of
your locker will automatically open.
Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town
and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys
best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here,
but if youre staying in another section of town such as the
Museum District you can take one of the many trams outside. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.80. He will activate
the card for you, but you have to place it up against one
of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on
using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might
be worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station
and walk across the street to the GVB public transportation office (en.gvb.nl - open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 21:00) to the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free
ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side
of the station on the River IJ.
Autumn 2015

Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its
major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public
transportation is excellent and we dont recommend driving within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the preferred Dutch method of travel and some would say its the
only way to truly experience the city.
BICYCLE RENTAL
There are many ways to see Amsterdam and its surroundings
but our favourite option is to hire a set of wheels. There are
around 16 million bikes -thats twice the number of cars. Amsterdam also has plenty of places to park your bike for free,
but be sure to remember where you left it. Please note that
around 40,000 bikes are stolen annually. All told, Amsterdam
commuters cycle more than 2,000,000km every day!
BLACK BIKES
A full day bike rental will set you back only 10 and it has
the longest opening hours in the city.QF9, Lijnbaans
gracht 282, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31, www.black-bikes.
com. Open 08:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. TJA
HOLLAND RENT A BIKE
Although the name may not be the most original, this
companys service is outstanding. It rents and repairs
bikes, steps and scooters.QA2, Damrak 247, tel. (+31)
206 22 32 07. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun
09:00-18:00. JA
MIKES BIKE RENTAL SHOP
Mikes Bikes is famous all over Europe for its sightseeing
tours, but we recommend its beach cruisers with special
tires that hardly ever go flat. Each bike also comes with two
locks, which isnt a bad idea in Amsterdam where bike theft
is as common as dope smoke.QG7, Kerkstraat 134, tel.
(+31) 206 22 79 70, www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam.
com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. (5 - 15). JA
RENT A BIKE
Hire bikes with hand brakes or the old fashioned backpedal ones that dont include rental company signs so
you dont look like a silly tourist. Each bike has two locks, a
necessary luxury in a city of bike thieves.QA2, Damstraat
20 - 22, tel. (+31) 206 25 50 29, www.bikes.nl. Open
09:00-18:00. Prices: from 3 hours for 6.50 to a full day
for 9.50. TJA
As long as the weather cooperates try renting a boat to see the city
BOAT RENTAL
MOKUM BOAT
This reliable company rents 30 electric-powered boats
that can seat up to eight people each. The boats are
easy to navigate and no experience or special licences
are required. Just leave a 100 cash deposit and youll be
on your way. Its friendly staff can also recommend cafs
where you can moor your boat for lunch or dinner.QE8,
Nassaukade 351, tel. (+31) 614 68 32 77, info@mokum
boat. com, www.mokumboat.com. Open 09:00-22:00.
Also location South: Stadionkade 73, location Amstel:
Schollenbrugstraat 1. TJA6L
REDERIJ DE JORDAAN
This company can take from two to 12 people on a private
tour of Amsterdams canals that can also be fully catered
with food and drink. A captain in a proper white uniform
will navigate the waters of the city for you in one of two
historic wooden vessels, the Farahilde (1908) and the Welmoed (1932).QE6, Egelantiersgracht 18-C, tel. (+31) 650
24 32 36, www.rederijdejordaan.amsterdam.
BUSES
City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or as
a final option once the trams have stopped running. Night
buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes connecting Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein.
CAR RENTAL
Youll find all kinds of characters in Amsterdam
AVIS
Cars are divided in small, medium and large categories
and are available from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aank
omstpassage 5), tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl.
Open 06:30-23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A
EUROPCAR
Cars from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpas
sage 10), tel. (+31) 203 16 41 90, www.europcar.com.
Open 06:30-23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00-23:00. A
HERTZ
Hertz offers short- and long-term rental of cars and vans.
QS4, Overtoom 333, tel. (+31) 206 12 24 41, www.
hertz.nl.

FERRIES
PETROL STATIONS
Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central

Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord
on the other side of the River IJ. There are six ferry lines all
of which are free.
TEXACO
QD7, Marnixstraat 250. Open 24hrs. Also at Sarphatis
traat 225. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A
AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL

Passenger Terminal Amsterdam hosts more than 250,000
people every year. The striking architectural monument
is within walking distance of the Central Station and only
25km from the North Sea. The cosy hallway offers food
venues, a kids corner and a luggage room with instructions in six languages.QH4, Piet Heinkade 27, tel. (+31)
205 09 10 00, www.ptamsterdam.com. TJAL
METRO
The metro is fast and efficient. Its a combination of underground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram).
Only some 3.5km of track between the Central Station
and the Amstel are actually located underground. The four
metro lines all depart from Central Station and head out to
their final destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and
Isolatorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the future, hence all of the construction around town.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdams public transportation company and it
provides integrated metro,
tram and bus service
throughout the city and its
surrounding areas. Since
2010 a comprehensive
OV-chipcard ticket system
allows you to travel on the
metro, trams, buses and
even trains using just one
card. There are a variety of
OV-chipcard options and you can upload them with
travel credits at special machines located at stations
and even in most supermarkets.
You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24 (7.50), 48
(12), 72 (16.50), 96 (21), 120 (26), 144 (29.50)
and 168 (32) hours, which afford you unlimited travel
on all trams, buses, metros and night buses and an
economical way to explore the city. A one-hour OV
card can be purchased onboard from GVB drivers and
conductors, but a premium is charged for this ticket. It
costs 2.80 for one hour of unlimited travel on different
buses and trains in the city that begins once you board
your selected mode of transportation and check in by
placing it next to the scanners near the doors. You must
also scan your card when leaving the vehicle.
TAXIS
CONNEXXION
Connexxion has fixed prices from Schiphol Airport to Amsterdam from 32 - 42. You can also book a shared taxi ride
on a minibus to one of 110 selected hotels in Amsterdam
for 15.50.QCateringweg 12, Schiphol, tel. (+31) 883 39
47 41, www.schipholhotelshuttle.nl. Open 06:00-21:00.
TCA TAXI
This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Station, Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederiksplein and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them
and order a cab any time of the day or night.Qtel. (+31)
207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl. Open 24hrs.
TRAINS
Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option for
getting around and there are three types of trains available. The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly,
which is ideal when travelling abroad, while the Stoptrein,
not surprisingly, makes frequent stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity offers fast connections between
Dutch cities. You can easily find all train departures as well
as ticket price information at www.ns.nl. The yellow timetables in the station show departure times and platform
numbers. The route is shown at the top of each board.
TRAMS
Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They
provide the best way of getting around the city and run
from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldnt have to wait longer than
10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys
across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram
drivers. They cost 2.80, but if you plan on travelling a lot
youre better off purchasing a 24-hour ticket for 7.50. You
have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when
entering and exiting the vehicle.
Finding a place to park your bike can be a chore
Autumn 2015
Amsterdam Basics
Read on and find out why the Dutch allow people to smoke
joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty
of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available
here.
ALCOHOL
Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre
never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken,
Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but
other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A
wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on offer at
most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from
Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip
to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of
the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that specialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as
jenever. You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or
wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll
be carded, so always bring identification.
LANGUAGE
Dutch is an Indo-European Germanic language that is
mostly spoken in the Netherlands, Flanders and Suriname
(South America). It is closely connected to the Low German
dialects which by now have largely been flooded by official
German. These dialects managed to keep a number of proto-Germanic characteristics and for this reason Dutch as a
language is a living fossil. It represents a group of important
dialects that were spoken by the founders of the Frankish
Empire and the Saxons. The latter group were the founders
of the English language as it is spoken today, hence Anglo-Saxons. Afrikaans, as it is spoken in South Africa, is descended from the 17th-century version of modern Dutch.
Most Dutch have a more than fairly healthy command of
the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Mastering the Dutch language can be a terrifying
ordeal, but learning a few key phrases will make things
easier and might even win you a few friends and admirers.
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
On public holidays shops and museums often close
earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools,
city councils, post offices and banks are closed and
some shops and restaurants may also take the day off.
Those still open will have abbreviated opening hours.
January 1
March 25, 2016
March 27, 2016
March 28, 2016
April 27
May 1

May 4

May 5
May 10
May 5, 2015
May 15 - 16, 2016
June 21
December 5
December 25 - 26
December 31
New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)

Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag)
Easter Sunday (Pasen)

Easter Monday (Pasen)
Kings Day (Koningsdag)
Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid)
Remembrance of the Dead
(Nationale Herdenking)
Liberation Day (Bevrijdingsdag)
Mothers Day (Moederdag)
Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag)
Whitsun (Pinksteren)
Fathers Day (Vaderdag)
St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas)
Christmas (Kerstmis)
New Years Eve (Oudejaarsdag)
LOCAL TIME
From 28 March to 31 October, the Netherlands is in the
Central European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. During
the rest of the year the clock ticks according to the Central
European Time Zone, or GMT+1.
PHONES
All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but
of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from
abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call
one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.
MONEY
Talk about your basics... This is a urinal
The Netherlands adopted the euro as its currency in 2002.

One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2,
5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of 1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20, 50,
100, 200 and 500. Although a collection of 200 and 500
bills in your wallet might make you feel like Bill Gates, bear
in mind that theyre almost never accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and withdraw money at most
large banks; there are plenty in the centre of Amsterdam.
All Dutch banks accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash
dispensers, but bear in mind that ATMs are ridiculously
scarce in Amsterdam often leading to huge queues near
hot spots like Leidseplein. Carry some cash with you as
some bars only accept cash and others require a minimum
purchase of 15 - 20 to use a card.
Amsterdam Basics
POST
POST NL
You can buy stamps at most newsstands and drop off your
postcards in the orange boxes around town in the overige
slot or go straight to these centrally located post offices.
QF5, Singel 250, www.postnl.nl. Open 07:30 - 18:30,
Sat 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
PROSTITUTION
It may surprise you to know that the profession that has
helped to make Amsterdam a household word across the
globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the Dutch did
what they always do when confronted with a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind eye to the
practice and tolerated it. Today, window shopping on the
Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction, but
please bear in mind that these ladies are there to make a
living and are not part of some open-air zoo. Be respectful
and, whatever you do, dont take any photographs up close.
Use a zoom lens from a distance if you want some photographic evidence of your visit to Europes erotic pleasure
capital. For more information see Nightlife.
ROADS
For a country as small as the Netherlands, there are a ridiculously high number of asphalt roads and motorways. Despite
the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars traffic quite frequently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. The majority
of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, and considering
the severity of traffic fines, this seems wise enough. If you
exceed the maximum speed by 50km/h youll lose your driving licence and be fined. Within city limits you must drive
50km/h, outside city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120
(check the road signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on
the right side of the road, and youre not allowed to cycle on
motorways! Youve no idea how many tourists are plucked
off the road by police each year.
SMOKING
Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Netherlands, but since the introduction of the smoking ban on
July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This
is partially because the government started a huge campaign to make people aware of the effects of smoking on
their health. These days you can have a wild night out and
come home without your hair and clothes reeking of cigarette smoke. For some this is an enormous benefit and others (read: smokers) find it a pain and banish themselves to
the many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear
rules you may suddenly find yourself in a smoke-filled pub.
This is usually in bars with just a single staff member: the
boss. Or you may find yourself in a pub that flouts the ban
on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you.
If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates
this, then the manager will receive a fine upon inspection.
CITY CENTRE TOUR

Most people arrive at Amsterdams Central Station so
thats as good a place to start as any other. Walk down
the touristy Damrak, which is lined with bars, souvenir
shops and fast food joints. If youd like to start your day
in true Dutch fashion then grab a deep-fried frikandel
and frites at Manneken Pis or just keep walking down
the street. Just ahead is Dam Square home to street
performers as well as the National Monument, a 22mhigh pillar that looks like a white phallus. On the opposite end of the square youll find Royal Palace Amsterdam whose interior is so opulent youll think youve
been transported to Versailles.
Next walk down the Kalverstraat, which is a pedestrian shopping street where you can find major fashion
brands as well as cafs and fast food shops. Head down
the street until you see the Spui Square on your right.
Its full of cafs as well as one of Amsterdams premiere
English-language bookshops, The American Book
Center. For affordable Dutch food you cant beat t
Lieverdje just around the corner on the Singel. We always order the uitsmijter or the pea soup. If youre looking for the ultimate Amsterdam bruin caf experience
then have a drink and a soup and sandwich at Caf
Hoppe on the Spui, which has been around since 1670.
Continue your walk down the Singel until you reach the
famous Flower Market where you can buy seeds, bulbs
and lots of souvenirs. Pass the Mint Tower (Munttoren)
and walk down Reguliersbreestraat, a popular gayfriendly street flanked by loads of restaurants, until you
reach Rembrandtplein. Walk across the bridge over
the Amstel to Waterlooplein where youll find many of
Amsterdams Jewish sights, including the Portuguese
Synagogue. The Rembrandthuis Museum is just
around the corner to the left on Jodenbreestraat. If you
walk across another bridge youll reach Sint Antoniesbreestraat, which leads to the Nieuwmarkt, home to
fashionable cafs and bars as well as Den Waag, Amsterdams most impressive medieval gate.
From here you can explore Amsterdams Chinatown
on the Zeedijk. Wing Kee and the stylish New King are
both good choices for dinner. If you go left from the
Zeedijk youll run across Oudezijds Achterburgwal and
Oudezijds Voorburgwal, the main canal streets of the
Red Light district. The bars, coffeeshops and prostitutes
behind their windows are the main attractions here, but
if its still not too late you can also visit the Oude Kerk,
the citys oldest church. The Hash, Marijuana & Hemp
Museum, however, is open every day until 23:00. If you
walk down the Zeedijk toward the train station youll
also come across what could be the worlds oldest gay
and lesbian bar, Caf t Mandje. Taste a traditional
Dutch liqueur or spirit like jenever at De Ooievaar or
In de Olofspoort (closed Tuesdays) near the end of the
Zeedijk are both good choices. For excellent microbrews
visit Proeflokaal de Prael on Oudezijds Armsteeg.
Autumn 2015
Restaurants
If theres an exotic cuisine that you cant do without, theres a
good chance that youll find it in Amsterdam. In addition to
excellent Asian restaurants in Chinatown, there are plenty of
establishments specialising in Dutch and international food,
but dont pass up an opportunity to try delicious dishes from
Hollands former colonies - namely Indonesia and Suriname.
Foodies can also dine at restaurants with Michelin stars and
late night clubbers will have no trouble finding a kebab,
burger or fries in the middle of the night. Prices in parentheses indicate the average cost of a main course.
SYMBOL KEY
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
AFRICAN
S Takeaway
W Wifi
FENAN KLEIN AFRIKA

Klein, or small, could refer to the actual restaurant, which is
undoubtedly on the tiny side, but it could also refer to the
menu which shows a small glimpse of an entire continents
culinary traditions, especially those of East Africa. Order an
Ethiopian St George beer while you ponder the choices in
front of you before inevitably asking the friendly wait staff to
recommend something authentic and tasty. We ended up
getting the most bang for our euro by trying the bebeayenetu, which is a combination of different dishes served on
a giant pancake of sorts. The atmosphere inside was vibrant,
hot and humid, not unlike the stereotypical vision of subSaharan Africa.QD10, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 147, tel. (+31)
204 12 44 42. Open 17:00-23:00.
BAGELS
BAGELS & BEANS
Were not exactly sure where the beans fit into the equation,
but if you like plain, whole wheat, tomato, everything, cinnamon and even gluten-free (whatever that means) bagels
with a wide variety of toppings from hummus, tuna salad
or Parma ham to traditional cream cheese, then head over
to this popular chain of bagel bistros. You can also drink
freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, although, try as
we might, we cant seem to find the appeal of cucumber
juice. Free wi-fi is part of the experience at this large outlet
of this popular chain of bagel bistros.QA2, Waterlooplein
2, www.bagelsbeans.nl. Open 08:30-17:30, Sun 11:0017:30. Also at A-2, Raadhuisstraat 18, tel. (+31) 206 38
07 88; F-8, Keizersgracht 504, tel.(+31) 203 30 55 08; and
many other locations. (5). ASW
TONYS NY CITY BAGELS
Not far from the Rembrandt House, this self-proclaimed
New York bagel shop offers a variety of bagels with even
more toppings from traditional cream cheese to guacamole. Order a cold sandwich or tuna melts and BLT bagels or you can try brownies, cookies and delicious carrot
cake. If youd rather eat at home take a bunch with you
for 0.90/bagel or 8.50 for 10. Naturally, coffee, tea and
juice are also available in this bright yellow bistro with
high ceilings and views of the street. Order and pay at the
counter.QH5, Jodenbreestraat 15, tel. (+31) 204 21 59
30, www.tonysnycitybagels.nl. Open 08:00-18:00, Sat
08:30-18:00, Sun 09:30-18:00. (2 - 5).
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning

O Casino
T Child-friendly
U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace

V Home delivery
E Live music
BAKERIES
KWEKKEBOOM
Know this posh bakery and sweets shop by the beautiful
stained glass above its entrance. Inside you can relax with
a delicious waffle, a slice of cake or maybe some bonbons
made by a company that has been in operation since 1900.
Naturally you can also order a hot drinks or just take away
some chocolates for later.QB3, Reguliersbreestraat 36,
tel. (+31) 204 35 30 30, www.kwekkeboom.net. Open
09:00-17:45, Sat 09:00-17:30, Sun 12:00-18:00. Also at
H-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat 119, tel. (+31) 206 73 71 14;
K-6, Linnaeusstraat 80, tel. (+31) 206 65 04 43; and other
locations. S
BARBECUE
CAF DE KLOS
Although this place looks like an authentic Dutch brown
bar with solid wood furniture, wood panelling and imitation Dutch master paintings collecting dust on their
chunky frames, the staff assured us that its actually a
restaurant specialising in barbecued meat of all kinds. Order huge servings of spare ribs, smoked chicken, sirloins,
t-bones, lamb chops and prime rib guaranteed to make
a vegetarian salivate. A decent selection of beer is also on
draught including microbrews from De Bekeerde Suster,
which is owned by the same people.QF7, Kerkstraat 41 43, tel. (+31) 206 25 37 30, www.beiaardgroep.eu. Open
16:00-23:30. (12 - 22).
Women know that breakfast is the most important meal of the day
Restaurants
BRAZILIAN
RODIZIO
The Zeedijk is the gateway to heaven for carnivores and at
Rodizio you can eat unlimited amounts of meat - and even
salad if youre in an odd mood. This Brazilian restaurant
specialises in all-you-can-eat menus and its waiters serve
large kebab skewers which have been cooked slowly in
charcoal ovens. Naturally the cheaper meat is served first,
which means you wont have as much room for the more
refined cuts of flesh. Despite this ruse, a trip to Rodizio is
money well spent.QB1, Zeedijk 28, tel. (+31) 639 34 44
14. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (18 - 21). J
BURGERS
BURGERMEESTER
The walls of this tiny hamburger joint are decorated with
photographs of grazing cows. We guess theyre there to
remind visitors that the excellent organic beef on your plate
was once a happy herbivore living on an eco-friendly farm.
Burgermeester specialises in simple, yet surprisingly creative hamburgers made from environmentally sustainable,
organic ingredients. In addition to the photos of cows, the
restaurant is neatly designed with an open-plan kitchen
and red, American-style diner sofas. Burgermeester is conveniently located in the heart of the Plantage, but it also has
other locations around Amsterdam.QI6, Plantage Kerk
laan 37, tel. (+31) 206 38 38 86, www.burgermeester.eu.
Open 12:00-23:00. (8 - 10). GKS
THE BUTCHER
De Pijp is one of Amsterdams most bohemian neighbourhoods. Its home to the amazing Albert Cuyp Market and,
since 2012, one of the best burgers in town. The Butcher
cooks all of its Aberdeen Angus beef burgers to order in
the open-plan kitchen for just under 10, but if youre not
in the mood for something that once mooed, you can order lamb, chicken and veggie burgers as well as the codfather. We personally prefer the Benedict burger, which
is the perfect way to start the day. You can also add extras like blue cheese, jalapenos, bacon and a number of
sauces in this trendy space designed by an award-winning
architectural firm.QH10, Albert Cuypstraat 129, tel.
(+31) 204 70 78 75, www.the-butcher.com. Open 11:0001:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00-01:00, Also at: Bellamyplein
51 (West). JAKS
CAFETERIAS
DE BIJENKORF KITCHEN
Pass some of the worlds biggest brands like Vuitton and
Gucci on your way to the top floor of this posh department
store to reach De Bijenkorf Kitchen an upmarket cafeteria
that offers a stylish, modern interior and views of Amsterdam. The Asian stand cooks stir fries to order, the seafood
stand boasts oysters and sushi, you can order pizzas and
pasta at the Italian counter and steaks at the grill. QA2,
Dam 1, tel. 900 09 19 (toll call), www.debijenkorf.nl.
Open 10:00-19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00-19:00, Thu, Fri 10:0021:00. (5 - 12). AB
Autumn 2015
11
Restaurants
CHINESE
DINERS
NAM KEE
In our estimation the best Chinese places have crispy duck
and pork hanging in their shop front windows and this
popular place located opposite the FGS He Hua Temple in
Chinatown certainly fits the bill. Order exotic dishes with
prawns or maybe some eel or just skip the culinary shenanigans and stick with the aforementioned food hanging in
the window which is delicious and costs only half of what
you would spend on the seafood dishes. The maitre d loves
to sing to both the patrons and himself and is often caught
in the act of singing to no one in particular.QB1, Zeedijk
111 - 113, tel. (+31) 206 24 34 70, www.namkee.net. Open
12:00-23:00. Also at Geldersekade 117, tel. (+31) 206 39
28 46. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:30 - 24:00; Marie
Heinekenplein 4, tel. (+31) 206 70 23 36. (10 - 18).
STUDIO 2
This cosy little caf offers great views of the bustling Flower Market outside, not to mention excellent traditional
Dutch dishes like green pea soup, omelettes, pancakes,
apple pie and, like most places, an English breakfast for
tourists. The food is incredibly cheap by city centre standards, but if youre not hungry its also a good place to take
a break from shopping and sightseeing with a coffee or
a beer.QA3, Singel 504, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 36. Open
09:30-17:30. (5 - 8). A
NEW KING
We were a little apprehensive when we encountered New
King, because unlike so many other restaurants in Chinatown, this one actually looks stylish with light coloured
wood panelling, red banners of Asian comic book characters eating food and dark brown wallpaper that looks like
snakeskin. Thankfully, this wasnt a case of interior design
prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and Indonesian
cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingly reasonable, too! Order whole fish, steaming bowls of seafood,
crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic
dishes like frog legs. Cocktails and a decent wine list are
also available.QB1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25 21
80, www.newking.nl. Open 11:30-24:00. (12 - 18). A
COFFEE & TEA

DE KOFFIE SALON
Look for the stained glass door and windows in shades of
blue to find this lively caf serving great coffee and tea as
well as incredible cakes, pastries and croissants. Black and
white photos of famous people slurping Java cover the far
wall and seating is also available outside. The staff are up
at the crack of dawn and still manage to serve you with a
genuine smile, which is no mean feat in our book.QE9,
Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat 82, tel. (+31) 206 12 40
79, www.dekoffiesalon.nl. Open 07:00-19:00. ABW
ESPRESSOFABRIEK
Located right next to a popular park where children play
football and parents picnic, the technologically advanced
(and expensive) coffee machines at the Espressofabriek
are manned by professional baristas who obviously take
pride in their work. They even offer seminars to anyone
curious to know how to pour the perfect espresso. This
isnt the place to go for a quick cup of Joe, but rather an
establishment for true connoisseurs. Although it has only
limited seating inside, a huge terrace is available when the
weather permits.QC4, Gosschalklaan 7 (Westergasfab
riek), tel. (+31) 204 86 21 06, www.espressofabriek.nl.
Open 09:30-18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. B
TEDDYS CORNER
This no frills diner and bar serves up anything from salads and burgers to steaks and lamb chops, but we get the
feeling that most people pop in for a big breakfast with
coffee or tea regardless of the time of day. Although it also
offers beer and cocktails, its more of a place to recharge
your batteries and to line your stomach before returning
to other Red Light bars and coffeeshops on this infamous
street.QB1, Warmoesstraat 45, tel. (+31) 204 23 21 67,
teddyscorner.nl. (7 - 15). A
DUTCH
T LIEVERDJE
This unpretentious caf and bar named after a famous
statue of a small boy located around the corner serves
up classic homemade Dutch dishes like stamppot, haring and apple pie as well as Indonesian-style fried rice
for affordable prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers and the locally made De Prael brew are also
at your disposal but bear in mind that the resident cat
might choose to sit in your lap if youre male. Apparently,
it doesnt like women or so the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior with large brass candelabras and even
an antique chandelier guarantee a cosy stay here, but
remember that during peek eating times youll have to
sit at the bar if you only want a drink. Tables are reserved
for hungry patrons. On Fridays happy hour begins at
20:00.QA3, Singel 415, tel. (+31) 625 58 11 56, www.
tlieverdje.nl. Open 11:00-21:00. (6 - 12). B
Queue up for traditional frites
Restaurants
ETHIOPIAN
IBSSA
Although you may feel a little uneasy about dining at a restaurant serving cuisine from a country where millions of people are starving as a result of a drought, we recommend you
put aside your squeamishness and visit this simple Ethiopian
restaurant, which looks and feels like somebodys living room.
The dcor may not be Ibssas biggest attraction, but the food
most certainly is and despite its simple menu you wont go
home hungry. Its also one of the few places in town where
its impolite not to eat with your hands!QO2, Blasiusstraat
62, tel. (+31) 206 63 39 63, www.restaurantibssa.nl. Open
17:00-22:00. (9 - 15). TL
FAST FOOD
MANNEKEN PIS
Named after the Belgian capitals favourite little urinating rascal, this fast food frites shack on the Damrak has
become an Amsterdam institution. Order your deep-fried
potatoes in three sizes for 2.50, 3.50 and 4.50 and one
of 16 sauces is included in the price from traditional mayonnaise or ketchup to an Indonesian peanut satay condiment. Other Dutch snacks like frikandel and kroket can
also be had.QA1, Damrak 41, www.mannekenpis.nl.
Open 11:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. (3 - 5). S
FONDUE
HET KARBEEL
This place seems to be one of the few original restaurants on a street lousy with Argentine steakhouses and
Chinese eateries. The atmosphere is refined, yet casual
and its interior is a combination of brick and wood with
high timber ceilings and plenty of light, natural and otherwise. You can order pastas, salmon and steaks, but its
true speciality is cheese fondue. Choose from a variety
of different cheeses from local Gouda to Belgian Trappist
fromage in which to dunk your bread and order one its
fine wines to compliment the meal.QB1, Warmoess
traat 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 49 95, www.hetkarbeel.nl.
Open 09:00-23:00. (15 - 20). A
FRENCH
ZUID ZEELAND
Courteous or brusque service could make or break your
dining experience. The professional staff at this traditional French restaurant still serve in an old-fashioned and
heart-warming way that adds to the relaxed ambiance of
this elegant establishment. But make sure you bring your
platinum card, because a meal in this monumental building wont come cheap. It is however the prefect place for a
romantic evening with your significant other and you can
linger at your table for as long as you like without being
hustled out the door.QF7, Herengracht 413, tel. (+31)
206 24 31 54. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00. (25 27). JAGKX
MOVEMBER
If you happen to be in the
Netherlands during the
month of November you
may notice an unusually
large number of men sporting moustaches of various
lengths and styles. Its not
that Dutch men want to
emulate their favourite 1970s porn stars or that Amsterdam has more hipsters than other European cities, rather
theyre showing their support for mens health issues
such as prostate cancer. Men start out clean shaven on
the first of the month and grow out their moustaches
until the end of Movember to raise money and awareness. The international movement has raised over 400
million worldwide and grown over 4 million moustaches. The local social campaign will include a number of
special events in Amsterdam as well as a gala party with
live music, drinks and good company. For more information visit nl.movember.com/en.
GREEK
DE 2 GRIEKEN
This Greek restaurant is perhaps symbolic of its homeland.
The maps of Greece on the wall are wrinkled and yellowing and the whole place exudes an atmosphere of faded
glory, yet the two Greeks who run the place are still passionate about their work. You wont find haute cuisine
here, but if youre in the mood for solid peasant fare like
moussaka, souvlaki and some fried squid accompanied
by a house wine or some ouzo, then you wont be disappointed. If youre not sure what to order, you cant go
wrong with the mixed grill, which comes with four kinds
of meat, rice, potatoes, giant beans, slaw and fresh tzatziki
for about 15. A small garden terrace is also available in the
summer.QE4, Prinsenstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206 25 53 17.
Open 17:00-23:00. (15). AB
INDIAN
KAMASUTRA
Although most people are too distracted by the coffeshops,
sex shops and bars in the Red Light District to notice this
Indian restaurant located on a small side street, this appropriately named place, given its location, is well worth a visit
for anyone craving a curry or a vindaloo. Inside Bollywood
movies provide the soundtrack for your dining experience
while rajas, gods and goddesses feast, carouse and flirt in
murals on three floors of Kamasutra. Order a Kingfisher or
Cobra beer and take your pick of delicious Indian cuisine,
which is prepared by Indian chefs. If you dont believe us
just take the stairs to the cellar downstairs and youll see
them toiling away in the kitchen.QB1, Lange Niezel 9, tel.
(+31) 206 26 00 03, www.restaurantkamasutra.nl. Open
12:00-24:00. (15 - 20). AV
Autumn 2015
13
Restaurants
INDONESIAN
KANTJIL & DE TIJGER
Stylish, yet casual, Kantijl & de Tiger is a good option if
youre in the mood for tasty Indonesian cuisine from local
favourites like a variety of rijsttafels and nasi goring to delicious desserts such as the green Javanese pancake with
coconut and palm sugar syrup. The exotic smells of the
sauces and seasonings are the first thing one notices upon
entering as meals are prepared in an open-plan kitchen to
the left. Although the place does include some traditional
design features like a tiger, palm trees and bamboo, the interior is generally a more modern affair. QA3, Spuistraat
291 - 293, tel. (+31) 206 20 09 94, www.kantjil.nl. Open
16:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. (10 - 25). AB
INTERNATIONAL
BADHUIS JAVAPLEIN
Opened as a public bathhouse in 1942, today its hip design
attracts fans of good style as well as good food and drink
and its patrons can enjoy lunch and dinner not to mention tasty cocktails and uncommon beers like Texels and
Jopen. The seats by the fireplace are highly coveted in the
winter, while the purple tables and chairs sandwiched between ivy-covered columns on the terrace are always full
on sunny days. The food ranges from salads and its signature Aberdeen Angus burger to rib-eye steaks and rabbit
stew. A kids menu is also available.QP2, Javaplein 21, tel.
(+31) 206 65 12 26, www.badhuis-javaplein.nl. Open
10:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-03:00. (6 - 17). IBW
DE PONTENEUR
Unlike many restaurants in the Dutch capital, this one
has an abundance of space and incredibly high ceilings
confounding the notion that Amsterdam cafs have to
be claustrophobic. A large reading table is available as
well plenty of toys and games for the kids and live music
is played every second Sunday of the month. Affordable
daily specials are listed on the blackboard above the openplan kitchen and a great selection of beer is also available.
QK6, Eerste van Swindenstraat 581, tel. (+31) 206 68
06 80, www.ponteneur.nl. Open 09:00-01:00, Fri, Sat
09:00-02:00, Sun 10:00-01:00. (12 - 15). ABW
IRANIAN
DAAR BAAND
This wonderful Iranian restaurant is absolutely littered with
Persian nick-nacks. Paintings of long-gone noblemen (and
-women) and scenes from ancient Persepolis cover the
walls while authentic music sets the tone for an evening you
wont forget. Try delicious lamb kebabs, a host of vegetarian
dishes or do as we did and order the mahiche (lamb stew
with baked apricots, spicy potatoes and mixed vegetables).
We also cracked a smile when we noticed that cognac and
calvados were listed under desserts on the menu. You can
also smoke a shisha for only 8!QD10, Overtoom 350, tel.
(+31) 206 18 54 81, www.irandaarbaand.nl. Open 17:0024:00. (14 - 18). ABX
ITALIAN
CAF PROUST
Popular with local 20- and 30-somethings, this stylish caf
is decorated with blackboard art (youll see what we mean
when you get there) and two long mirrors on opposite
walls that create an odd optical illusion, but its most striking feature is the huge lamp hanging above the bar that
looks like a revolver. You can order a good cocktail or a
tasty brew, but the menu is also worth a look and offers
such interesting dishes as lamb burgers with harissa sauce.
QE4, Noordermarkt 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 45, www.
goodfoodgroup.nl/proust.html. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (10 - 18). B
DE ITALIAAN
Our only complaint about De Italiaan would have to
be that its so popular and crammed with people in the
evening that a reservation is often necessary. But this
is of course a testament to its authentic cuisine and atmosphere. Most of the ingredients used in its open plan
kitchen are imported from organic farms in Italy and all
of its Italian wines can be enjoyed by the glass, carafe or
bottle within its two-storey red interior or out on the summer terrace. A huge number of pizzas are prepared in a
wood-fired oven.QE9, Bosboom Toussaintstraat 29, tel.
(+31) 206 83 68 54, www.deitaliaan.com. Open 17:3022:00. (10 - 20). AB
Locals dont let the cold get in the way of alfresco dining
FRENZI CUCINA
Part deli, part wine shop and part trattoria, this stylish restaurant serves delicious Italian-inspired cuisine, much of
which can be viewed behind the glass counter as one enters Frenzi Cucina. Black pillows and cushions cover roughly hewn wooden benches that are placed upon a floor of
colourful mismatched tiles. You can order full meals like
lasagne and risotto, salads and panini or just crawl into the
window niche with a hot chocolate, some tiramisu and
a good book. Organic prosecco is also available, not to
mention Vedett and La Chouffe beers in bottles, and the
owners regularly offer cooking workshops and wine tastings.QS4, Overtoom 459, tel. (+31) 204 12 38 66, www.
frenzi.nl. Open 12:00-21:30. (6 - 15). AS
Restaurants
JAMAICAN
MEXICAN
PLANET ROSE
If you go with your first instinct and stay outside, youll
miss one of Amsterdams culinary secrets. Unfortunately
the cheap chairs and tacky adverts make Planet Rose seem
more like a snack bar than a Jamaican restaurant where
the food is exceptional. Once inside it seems more like
youre in the canteen of some obscure football team than
in a real restaurant, but if you can ignore appearances, chef
Mama-Rose will take you on a culinary journey through
our planets most relaxed island nation. Each dish on the
menu comes with a personal story on its background
and all taste delicious, especially the tender goat curry,
jerked chicken and ackee and saltfish.QD9, Nicolaas
Beetsstraat 47, tel. (+31) 206 12 98 38, www.planetrose.
info. Open 14:00-22:00. (15). NGBKXS
LOS PILONES
Although quite colourful, and definitely not lacking in the dcor department, Los Pilones chose to forgo the usual embellishments of sombreros and cacti in favour of Mexican wrestling memorabilia including a giant mural of one of the sports
icons. The menu is limited to tortillas, soft shell tacos and enchiladas, but the food is good and the salsa that comes with
the gratis chips is surprisingly spicy. Naturally, you can order
one of its 185 tequilas. Get here early or youll be stuck on the
wrong side of the border.QD5, Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat
4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206 20 03 23, www.lospilones.com. Open
16:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. Also at F-8, Kerkstraat 63,
tel. (+31) 203 20 46 51. (20 - 25). JAG
JAPANESE
YAMAZATO
The best time to visit the only Japanese restaurant in Europe with a Michelin star is in the spring when the cherry
blossoms in its private garden are in bloom. But even if
you dine here in the dead of winter you wont be disappointed with the classic Sukiya-style interior, the staff in
authentic kimono or the traditional Kaiseki cuisine. When
the restaurant first opened in the 1970s it flew local fish
suppliers to Japan to show them how seafood was supposed to be presented for consumption, which means
that the fish they now serve is up to Japanese standards
and the more exotic additions to the menu are flown in
from Japan. You can also order a traditional breakfast if you
reserve it in advance.QFerdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel
Okura), tel. (+31) 206 78 74 50, www.yamazato.nl. Open
12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:30. (40 - 80). PA
LUNCHROOM
DE BAKKERSWINKEL
This long, narrow industrial-looking space with pipes and
wires hanging from the ceiling provides a bright, refined
atmosphere illuminated by a number of skylights. You can
expect classical music, a fresh flower on each table and
gourmet sweets, breakfasts, lunch and a whole menu
dedicated to high tea. Meals are prepared behind a long
counter to the right side thats covered in delicious pies
and cakes. The Bakers Shop is by no means cheap, but
style and taste dont come for free. Two small tables are
also available out on the street when the weather cooperates.QB1, Warmoesstraat 69, tel. (+31) 204 89 80
00, www.debakkerswinkel.nl. Open 08:00-17:30, Mon
10:00-17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. Also at C-3, Polon
ceaukade 1-2 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 206 88 06
32. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AB
youtube.com/inyourpocket
THE MEXICAN
Several questions come to mind when eating at The
Mexican. Why is there a dinner table underneath the open
staircase? Why does the meat in a chicken wrap look and
taste like tuna? And why is The Mexicans cook from Nepal? The restaurant looks like a typical tourist trap with
kitschy decorations, overpriced food and too many tables.
QA2, Damstraat 36, tel. (+31) 204 21 82 98, www.themexican.nl. Open 12:00-01:00, Fri 12:00-03:00. (12 15). PTJAGK
MOROCCAN
BAZAR
Located in a huge space that was once a church in the middle of Amsterdams most famous street market, Bazar offers
a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle Eastern and
North African dishes too numerous to mention here. Suffice
it to say, that you can get anything from kebabs, falafel and
hummus to exotic seafood and lots of cuisine with tangy
harissa sauce. Dine under enormous Moroccan-style lamps
on the second floor balcony or below multicoloured flashing Christmas lights on the ground floor. The food is refreshingly affordable and the atmosphere is friendly and casual.
Despite the Islamic dcor, plenty of beer, wine and spirits
can be ordered at the central bar.QH8, Albert Cuypstraat
182, tel. (+31) 206 75 05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.com.
Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-01:00, Sat 09:00-01:00, Sun
09:00-24:00. (6 - 12). A
Courageous eaters should try the local herring
Autumn 2015
15
Restaurants
NORTH AFRICAN
PIZZA
RANARA
Its no mirage. The lonely brick building at the far end of
the Westergasfabriek is a cosy oasis from the otherwise
bland surroundings of empty space on one side and boring residential housing blocks across the street. Let the
aroma of North African spices emanating from the openplan kitchen lure you inside for a culinary experience you
wont soon forget. Although you can try traditional tagines as main courses, you might get a broader introduction to this exotic cuisine by ordering the chefs special
mezze menu that includes five different dishes.QC4,
Polonceaukade 40 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 204
86 71 09, www.rainarai.nl. Open 12:00-01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00-03:00. Closed Mon. (20). B
DE PIZZABAKKERS
This trendy pizzeria has lots of wooden shelves and counters painted a flat grey and a solitary crystal chandelier
hanging from the ceiling. Part of the ground floor also
serves as a storage area for the heaps of firewood that fuels the oven. Roughly a dozen thin-crust pizzas are served
here including vegetarian options and you can sip a cappuccino, prosseco or Peroni beer while you wait for your
food. De Pizzabakkers only accept credit or bank cards so
put that cash back in your wallet.QI6, Plantage Kerk
laan 2, tel. (+31) 206 25 07 40, www.depizzabakkers.
nl. Open 12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. Also at Over
toom 501, tel. (+31) 206 18 65 54; D-4, Haarlemmerdijk
128 tel. (+31) 204 27 41 44 . (9 - 14).
PANCAKES
QUICK EATS
DE SPIEGEL
Within spitting distance of the Rijksmuseum, this cosy
family-style restaurant and caf has been serving pancakes
and other international food since 1907. Take a seat under
the hanging wooden shoes, lanterns, copper tea kettles
and other nick-nacks clinging to the ceiling and order a
big burger, a healthy salad or a hot drink. The kiebitz (hot
cocoa with rum and lots of whipped cream) really hits the
spot on a cold and rainy Amsterdam day.QF8, Lijnbaans
gracht 277, tel. (+31) 206 26 69 04, lunchcafedespiegel.
nl. Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-16:00. (8 - 12).
FEBO
This chain of snack bars, or rather snack shops, offers deepfried croquettes, frikandel and burgers promptly placed
into vending machines right after being made, which probably sounds strange to tourists and thats precisely why you
just have to experience it. We prefer a spicy Dutch sausage
(frikandel) with an order of frites and mayo before or after
a night on the town, but others swear by the satekroket.
The snack options seem limitless here so deposit your coins
and see what comes out. Also available at over 20 locations throughout town.QB1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 33,
tel. (+31) 206 26 03 60, www.febodelekkerste.nl. Open
12:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-04:00. Also at Damrak 6, tel.
(+31) 206 38 53 18. Open 10:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 04:00; H-10, Ferdinand Bolstraat 89B, tel. (+31) 206 79 30
09. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00; G-7, Reguliers
breestraat 38, tel. (+31) 206 23 53 04. Open 11:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00; and many other
locations. (1 - 3). JGS
THE PANCAKE BAKERY

Although this cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tourist trap, it serves scores of authentic Dutch pancakes and
omelettes. In other words, a very simple, yet popular concept. Each of its marble-topped tables has a big ceramic
bucket of local syrup with a wooden spoon as well as a
container of powdered sugar, the walls are covered in Amsterdam memorabilia and the low timber ceilings are simply charming, but the aroma of pancakes on the griddle
can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order them
with bacon, onions and cheese, with ice cream and cinnamon or dozens of other toppings either sweet or savoury.
Tea, coffee, wine, beer and spirits are also available and the
service is friendly.QE4, Prinsengracht 191, tel. (+31) 206
25 13 33, www.pancake.nl. Open 12:00-21:30. (8 - 15).
The Dutch have made snacking much easier
STEAKHOUSES
TORO DORADO
This is not your average steakhouse. But what can you
expect when the beef youre served is treated like royalty
and fed on a steady diet of beer and sake to create the
perfect amount of fat and marbling? The lucky heifers
also get a daily massage from a personal assistant. Unfortunately, the restaurant staff arent as attentive, but when
the tender Kobe beef arrives you wont care. Naturally, all
of this livestock pampering doesnt come cheap, but the
meal was one of the best weve had in a long time and
thats saying a lot.QA2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 22,
tel. (+31) 204 21 86 95, www.torodorado.com. Open
17:00-24:00. Also at A-1, Spuistraat 3d, tel. (+31) 204 21
86 95. (25 - 30). PTJAGBKXW
instagram.com/in_your_pocket
Restaurants
SURINAMESE
SPANG MAKANDRA
When we walked through the door of this ethnic eatery
we noticed that most of the limited seating was occupied
by Surinamese immigrants giving us a clear indication that
we had come to right place for authentic cuisine. Ignore
the cheesy illuminated paintings on the walls of blue
waters and palm trees and get stuck into a roti (meat and
sauce with a huge pancake), chow mein noodles and nasi
(baked rice).QG10, Gerard Doustraat 39, tel. (+31) 206
70 50 81, www.spangmakandra.nl. Open 11:00-22:00,
Sun 13:00-22:00. S
THAI
BIRD
This Thai restaurant was one of the first ethnic eateries to
open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it claims to
prepare authentic meals that are even better than the stuff
youd get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure, but it
might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve some
of the best fresh green and red curries you can get in Amsterdam with as much white rice as you can eat. The interior is rather less authentic, but even Christmas lights mixed
with plastic Buddhas cant spoil a truly satisfying meal at
Bird.QB1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14 42, www.
thai-bird.nl. Open 17:00-23:00. (12 - 17). JAGS
ORDER AN UITSMIJTER
If youre in a caf and cant
decide what to eat, just do
as the locals do and order
the uitsmijter (pronounced
outs-may-ter). This is Hollands contribution to
world comfort and breakfast food and is on the menu
of nearly every caf worth its salt in the Netherlands.
Although presentation varies from place to place, its
basically two or three fried eggs sunny side up served
on slices of bread with ham and melted cheese. Some
of the swankier establishments in town will also offer
gourmet cheeses, homemade bread and roast beef or
prosciutto instead of ham with a side salad, but this
classic Dutch staple is essentially an open-faced egg
sandwich. Although its usually a huge meal, its often one of the cheapest items on the menu, which is
perhaps why its also so popular with frugal locals. In
case youre wondering, uitsmijter means bouncer or
someone who throws people out of clubs, because it
was once considered the ideal meal to chow down on
before crashing after a long night out.
TURKISH
GOLDEN BROWN BAR

This is definitely not a brown bar, unless of course these
Amsterdam institutions have changed and now include
incredibly stylish interiors and serve delicious cocktails and
affordable Thai cuisine. Decorative walls on two floors, giant windows for people watching and huge glass balls as
lamps will give you a small hint at what to expect. The fish
cakes, green curries and pad thai also make it worth a visit,
but just in case you were really in the market for a brown
bar, this trendy hotspot does offer some great brews on
draught.QD10, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 146, tel. (+31) 206
12 40 76, www.goldenbrownbar.nl. Open 17:00-01:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00-01:00. (7 - 9). AB
GLLOGLU
All the goodies that the Turkish culinary tradition has to
offer can be found at this popular Amsterdam institution.
Since 1871 Gllolu has used its secret family recipes to
create wonderful handmade desserts like baklava, Anatolias most famous treat. The exquisite flavour of these recipes have become so beloved that Gllolu has the honour of calling itself the biggest baklava baker in the world
with establishments in dozens of countries including Libya. You can also enjoy other pastries, pies and cakes and all
can be enjoyed with real Turkish coffee.QB3, Reguliers
breestraat 7, tel. (+31) 203 20 42 00, www.gulluoglu.nl.
Open 09:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. JKS
TIBETAN
VEGETARIAN
SNOW LION
The otherwise ordinary beige interior of this restaurant
is punctuated by colourful images of the Buddha on one
side and the Dalai Lama on the other. The waitress dressed
in traditional garb had decidedly Tibetan features, which
gave us our first clue that we may have come to the right
place. Order classic drinks like butter tea or something
with a little more kick and then move on to vegetarian or
meat dishes with curry, noodles or rice or try the special
beef dish which was incredibly spicy just the way we like
it. But dont worry. The staff are kind enough to ask how
hot you like your food when they take your order.QE4,
Haarlemmerstraat 50, tel. (+31) 204 22 77 76. Open
16:00-22:00. (15).
LIBRIJE ZUSJE
Given the fact that it only has 40 seats and that its currently
the ultimate hot-spot for non-carnivores in the city centre,
it will come as no surprise that reservations are absolutely
essential at Librije Zusje. The same people who brought
you the famous vegetarian restaurant with Michelin stars
in Zwolle have exported the concept to the posh premises
of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel. It offers views of the biggest
courtyard garden in the city and the special chefs vegetarian menu is a mix of seemingly unrecognisable substances
that come together like a symphony in your mouth.QG7,
Herengracht 542-556, tel. (+31) 207 18 46 00, www.
waldorfastoria.hilton.com. Open 07:00-22:00. Vegetar
ian menu: 86/person. PJAUBXW
Autumn 2015
17
Cafs
You can sit in an historic establishment thats over 100 years
old or sip a special coffee poured by a professional barrista.
CAFS
CAF GEORGE
This stylish caf is the perfect place to spend a lazy day
with a good book. With views of the Leidsegracht outside,
an industrial interior of white tile walls, long leather benches and even a dog area, not to mention great food from
eggs Benedict or eggs cooked any way you like to gourmet sandwiches and salads, George has all bases covered.
Top shelf alcohol can also be had as well as Champagne.
QE8, Leidsegracht 84, tel. (+31) 206 26 08 02, www.
cafegeorge.nl. Open 11:00-23:00. (7 - 14). AB
CAF KOBALT
Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night cocktails,
this incredibly popular eating and drinking establishment is located in a medieval building with, rough, worn
floors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typically
gabled exterior not far from the station. Locals know that a
table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and even
in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy affordable Dutch
and international cuisine not to mention a good selection
of draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. You can
also listen to DJs on Friday nights and live jazz on Sundays
from 17:00.QE4, Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59, www.
cafekobalt.nl. Open 08:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-03:00,
Sun 10:00-01:00. (8 - 15). AIEB
CAF KUIJPER
At the weekend its pretty much standing room only at
Caf Kuijper where the music can scarcely be heard above
the din of boisterous conversations energised by great
draught brews from the IJ, Jopen and Texels breweries. If
the crowds bring out your inner claustrophobia then go
for a smoke or some fresh air out on the terrace. The features of the interior that stand out most would have to be
the blue floral tiles, the strange, metallic lamps dangling
from chains above the bar and a huge map of Amsterdam
on the wall in the back, not to mention the golden palm
trees. Snacks, soups, salads and sandwiches are also available.QK-7, Linnaeusstraat 79, tel. (+31) 206 65 19 26,
www.cafekuijper.nl. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:0003:00. (5 - 10). AB
Spend time in a classic decades-old caf
CAF SONNEVELD
Located on a busy intersection in the heart of the Jordaan,
this classic caf is always alive with the din of happy locals
sipping wine, beer and cocktails. Although a great pit stop
for a drink, Sonneveld also serves good food from breakfasts and sandwiches to steaks and even seafood. The
huge wooden bar nearly separates the caf in two so you
can sit in the sunny area or in the slightly darker section on
the other side. Naturally, in summer a seat outside is your
best bet.QD6, Egelantiersgracht 72-74, tel. (+31) 204
23 42 87, www.cafesonneveld.nl. Open 11:00-23:00,
Thu, Fri 11:00-01:00, Sat 09:00-01:00. (8 - 15). AB
CAFFE MILO
What this popular caf lacks in size, it more than makes up
for with its style and lively atmosphere. A shiny copper coloured bar with matching lamps is stocked with all the top
shelf liquor you could ask for, which comes in handy on
Wednesday evenings from 18:00 when all mixed drinks are
two for one. Take a seat on plush brown leather benches
and order breakfast food, sandwiches and soups for lunch
or something more substantial like a Black Angus steak
with truffle sauce for dinner. A good selection of beer, a
sunny outdoor terrace and free wi-fi are a few more reasons to drop by.QK-7, Linnaeusstraat 71H, tel. (+31) 204
63 80 27, www.caffemilo.com. Open 09:00-01:00, Sat
09:00-03:00, Sun 10:00-01:00. (7 - 18). ABSW
MATA HARI
This casual cafe knows how to serve a good brew and
a proper meal in a cosy atmosphere full of comfy sofas
and leather armchairs. Named after the legendary Frisian
exotic dancer who was later executed by the French on
charges of espionage during WWI, this fun venue offers
a touch of history and the best that Mediterranean cuisine has to offer. Most of its dishes are made with local or
fair trade ingredients and you can enjoy them on a large
terrace by the water in the heart of the Red Light district.
QB1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 22, tel. (+31) 202 05 09
19, www.matahari-amsterdam.nl. Open 12:00-01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. JAGBKW
CLASSIC CAFS
BEURS VAN BERLAGE
If youd like to see where locals eat, drink and chat over
beer, wine, breakfast food and gourmet sandwiches, then
this little slice of history housed in the monumental Beurs
van Berlage building is the place to go. Not only can you
get a good meal, but you can also admire this legendary
example of Amsterdam School architecture and design
from the inside with its vaulted ceilings and characteristic
tile tableaux by Jan Toorop. The acoustics of the hall makes
for a boisterous meal among Amsterdammers, but bear in
mind that its often difficult to get a seat at lunch, unless
you visit the outside terrace in summer.QA2, Damrak
277 (entrance from Beurseplein), tel. (+31) 205 31 33 55,
www.beursvanberlage.nl/caf. Open 10:00-18:00, Sun
11:00-18:00. (8 - 15). AB
Cafs
CAF SCHELTEMA
This classic Dutch caf, brown bar and beerhall is so authentic its a virtual museum of Amsterdam eating and drinking
culture. Its worn wooden tables, floors and wall panelling
have been around for ages, not to mention the antique
memorabilia that seem to cover every available space. An
old stove in the centre of the room keeps patrons warm on
cold days or perhaps its the jenever and a good selection of
Low Country beers that keeps the chill away. Snacks, sandwiches, soups and local main courses are available as well
as salads but we recommend the French onion soup or one
of its hearty country-style omelettes.QA2, Nieuwezijds
Voorburgwal 242, tel. (+31) 206 23 23 23. Open 10:0022:00, Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-21:00. (7 - 18).
Order a typical Dutch breakfast and dont forget the beer
CAF AMERICAIN
Located on the ground floor of one of Amsterdams most
historic hotels, the Caf Americain serves upmarket cuisine
for breakfast, lunch and dinner and although an evening
meal can cost you dearly, you can get eggs Benedict for
under 10. Its jazz brunches and high tea are also tempting, but many people, especially tourists, come here to
soak up the old world atmosphere of its grand interior,
which is a mix of both Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles
that includes murals, stained glass and fantastic views of
the fountain outside. Locals sip coffee and peruse newspapers and magazines at the reading table at the far end.
QF8, Leidsekade 97, tel. (+31) 205 56 30 00, www.
edenamsterdamamericanhotel.com. (10 - 30). AB
CAF DE ZWART
This tiny, classic old world caf boasts an inticate, multicoloured tile floor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet
table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed
gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can order coffee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian
draught beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sandwiches are also on offer as well as a large outdoor terrace
with great views of the hubbub on the square. Given its
prime location, Caf de Zwarts food and drink are surprisingly cheap.QA3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24 65 11.
Open 09:00-01:00. B
CAF KOOSJE
Located on a busy corner near the Artis Zoo, this classic
Dutch caf offers a large central bar with plenty of places
to sit, wooden benches lined up against the walls, some
leather couches for lounging, big windows with views and
plenty of outside seating. Koosje is chock full of authentic
local ambience enhanced by pleasant background music
thats interesting, but not distracting. You can order breakfast food, soups and sandwiches from morning until the
afternoon and more substantial meals in the evening, but
a selection of beer and wine can be had whenever you
like. If youre in the mood for something sweet, try the carrot cake.QI6, Plantage Middenlaan 37, tel. (+31) 203 20
08 17, www.koosjeamsterdam.nl. Open 09:00-01:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. (7 - 15). ABW
CAF SCHILLER
Caf Schiller is an average sized eating and drinking establishment with a big history and a favourite among young
and old Amsterdammers, as well as a hang out for the citys
fourth estate - the stingiest lot of tipplers youll find, unless
of course theyve already has few. Old portraits of venerated men adorn its elegant walls, yet the atmosphere is
friendly, relaxed and open. The whole range of IJ microbrews is available in bottles and the wine list is simple and
within reach of average citizens and lowly travel writers.
The cuisine is more upmarket and you can try suckling pig,
cod fillet stuffed with oysters or fillet mignon for roughly
20.QB3, Rembrandtplein 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 98 46,
www.cafeschiller.nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Fri 16:00-03:00,
Sat 14:00-03:00, Sun 14:00-01:00. (15 - 20). A
CAF CONFUSION
The Oxford English Dictionary defines a caf as a small
restaurant selling light meals and drinks but also adds
that in North America its a bar or nightclub, while in
South Africa a caf is a shop selling sweets, cigarettes,
newspapers, etc. To add to this confusion it also mentions that the word is derived from the French meaning coffee or coffee house. Obviously in Amsterdam
coffeeshops are something entirely different. So perhaps the Anglo-Saxons are to blame and simply cant
properly define this most popular of establishments.
But surely the Dutch can, right? Well, not really. In fact,
locals often refer to bars as cafs and, to add even more
confusion to this complicated linguistic problem, they
call what the English consider a caf a lunchroom.
Americans would probably call these lunchrooms
cafeterias. Confused yet? In this guide weve tried to
simplify things by listing places where you put your
own food on a tray as a cafeteria and a caf as a laid
back venue thats good for a coffee and a light meal or
breakfast. Weve also made a category for classic cafs
that includes historic institutions with lots of local colour. Naturally, you can find many of these caf qualities
at a diner or a greasy spoon, too, but well refrain from
opening up that can of worms.
Autumn 2015
19
Nightlife
NIGHTLIFE
Amsterdams nightlife needs no introduction, but needless
to say youll find whatever youre looking for in this legendary vice capital from fun coffeeshops, raging nightclubs
and packed Irish pubs to classic Dutch brown cafs, brew
pubs and Belgian beer bars. Erotic entertainment like peep
shows, live sex performances and the hard-working Red
Light girls are also never far away. For a full list of pubs,
clubs and Red Light hot spots as well as videos visit www.
amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
BARS
BIBLOS
It would take the better part of a day just to describe all of
the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls
at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or
so licence plates from around the globe, currency both
young and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles,
bowling pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else
can we say about the atmosphere? Its smoky, packed with
both foreigners and locals and fun. Although plenty of
beers and cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular.
QF7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21 70. Open
21:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00-04:00. AX
BRANDSTOF
Located across the street from the fire department, Brandstof (flammable materials) is absolutely incandescent at
the weekend and given the huge crowds that congregate
here, this trendy caf-cum-club could definitely be a fire
hazard. Youll have to wait a while until you finally reach
the bar, which is dimly illuminated by two large street
lamps, so order enough drinks to keep you wet for a while.
Although popular with a beautiful, yet casually dressed
clientele of 20- and 30-somethings in the evenings, its
also a good place for an early breakfast or a light lunch.
QD6, Marnixstraat 357, tel. (+31) 204 22 08 13, www.
bar-brandstof.nl. Open 08:00-01:00, Fri 08:00-03:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00-03:00. AB
What could be more inviting than a local brown bar?
CAF DE KOE
We really like this laid back place where you can enjoy a
good brew or cocktail with a board game during the day
or attempt to mark your territory among dozens of rowdy
patrons at night. Its kind of like walking into a friends house
party except your best buddy probably doesnt have a giant white mural of a cow in his living room or glittering
wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar. Alternative
rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good
thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below
can bring on a premature case of the munchies.QE7, Mar
nixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25 44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl.
Open 16:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. A
CAF EMMELOT
This little pubs popularity is no doubt due to its good
location on a major Red Light thoroughfare near some
of the best window shopping, although you could make
the argument that the loud 1980s music really brings
em in. Others probably appreciate that the smoking ban
isnt enforced here, but we personally only came for the
cheap late night drinks and the pool table. In any event,
Emmelot also provides a big TV and if you beg the bar
staff they might even put on a football match. Ladies
need to ask for the key to crapper at the bar, but the
mens trough is open to all.QB1, Oudezijds Voorburg
wal 52, tel. (+31) 206 22 16 26. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00-03:00. BX
CAF SOUND GARDEN
Being old Seattle sound enthusiasts ourselves, we had to
come to this dive bar to see what all the fuss was about.
Would you believe it that as we walked in, Soundgarden
was blaring from the speakers? Okay, it was actually Audioslave, but pretty damn close. If youd like to see what
an old squatters bar probably looked like before they sold
out (but with more Americans), then this is the place to go.
You can play pool or foosball inside or hit the private canalside terrace, which must infuriate the posh neighbours
next door in the evenings when things heat up. Inside
theres also a smoking room, not to mention a huge painting of Henry Rollins performing in naught but his undies.
QD6, Marnixstraat 164 166, tel. (+31) 206 20 28 53,
www.cafesoundgarden.nl. Open 13:00-01:00, Fri 13:0003:00, Sat 15:00-03:00, Sun 15:00-01:00. EBX
DRINK N SINK
Were not sure if the name is a greeting or a warning, but
judging by the happy, inebriated crowds that occupy the
bar and its booths at night, its probably a little of both.
Scream past the ear-shattering classic rock or techno
music and order a Grolsch or a cocktail. Watch sports on
several TVs, escape the mayhem upstairs or play pool in
the basement, but if you think that the drink has sunk you,
dont panic. Its probably just the reflection from an improbable and unnecessary number of disco balls messing
with your head. Unfortunately, you have to pay 0.50 for
the dubious toilets downstairs.QB1, Warmoesstraat 58,
tel. (+31) 206 27 01 25. A
Nightlife
LOUIS BAR (CAF DE DAM)
This place claims to be Amsterdams smallest bar and it
really is quite tiny. Hundreds of beer coasters adorn the
walls and just as many football scarves dangle from the
ceiling. American law enforcement patches and plenty of
Beatles memorabilia also contribute to the dcor of this
iconic watering hole where classic rock seems to dominate
the musical landscape and the beer selection is decent, if
a bit pricey. A sign reads Tipping isnt a city in China and if
you do decide to leave your bartender some coins hell put
them in a wooden Ajax shoe behind the bar.QA2, Dam
straat 4, tel. (+31) 206 24 53 31. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00-03:00. BS
LUX
High city centre prices for both wine (and even tea) might
throw you off at first, but the experience and the cool
crowd of Caf Lux near Leidseplein really makes it worth
a visit (or two). Enjoy the outrageous pornographic, yet
elegant images, the stellar design of the mirror walls with
hints of Asian elements and the deep red ceiling. Expats
and young hipsters flock here for drinks before and after
painting the town and so should you.QE7, Marnixstraat
403, tel. (+31) 204 22 14 12, www.weberlux.nl. Open
19:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00-04:00. PJN
WEBER
Weber is billed as a club/bar for an alternative crowd loth
to listen to pop and techno music on their night out and
wed have to agree. At the weekend its packed, quite
stuffy and quite hard to get into and even harder to get
out. New Wave and indie music icons line one wall, while
the other boasts three portraits of American astronauts
and what appears to be the head of a water buffalo. Alternative indeed. Seating on faux leopard skin seats in
the cellar is often easier to find.QE8, Marnixstraat 397,
tel. (+31) 206 22 99 10, www.weberlux.nl. Open 19:0003:00, Fri, Sat 19:00-04:00. A
BEER BARS
BEER TEMPLE
The word temple isnt mere hyperbole. If youre into American craft brews you might just be tempted to drop to
your knees in awe and reverence at the sight of the huge
blackboard that lists hundreds of beers by such brewing
heavyweights as Samuel Adams, Saranac, Anchor, Brooklyn
and Flying Dog. Roughly 20 beers are available on draught,
including the house Tempelbier, but most are in bottles. If
youve had your fill of ales and IPAs, you can try some exotic
libations like the 32% Tactical Nuclear Penguin brew. Good
pub grub like wings and hot dogs can also be had here.
QA2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 250, tel. (+31) 206 27
14 27, www.beertemple.nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Fri 16:0003:00, Sat 14:00-03:00, Sun 14:00-22:00. ABW
LONDON CALLING
Every year the Paradiso Club
hosts this biannual event in
the spring and autumn to
showcase up-and-coming
bands that you may not have
heard of, but which will no
doubt be renowned artists in the future, if not household names. You can check out the latest edition of this
alternative rock extravaganza on October 30 (line-up:
Circa Waves, The Jacques and more) and 31 (line-up:
Lower Dens, Girl Band and more), but be sure to buy your
tickets as soon as possible as concerts sell out quickly.
Previous participants of London Calling have included
Florence & the Machine, Franz Ferdinand and Bloc Party.
Visit www.londoncalling.nl for more information.
CAF BELGIQUE
A couple of tables, a few stools at the bar, two benches
outside and thats about it for seating in this tiny brown
bar specialising in delicious Belgian brews too numerous
to mention by name. Rest assured, that if youre a beer
connoisseur the only complaint youll have here is that
the glasses are too small. Perhaps thats a blessing given
that most of the suds sold here weigh in somewhere just
below the 10% alcohol mark. Recommended.QA2, Gra
venstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 25 19 74, www.cafe-belgique.
nl. Open 14:00-01:00. EB
GOLLEMS PROEFLOKAAL
Take a 10-minute tram ride from the Central Station (tram
Nr.1) to this shrine dedicated to beer. If they dont have your
favourite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that Gollem
has it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar.
Dutch snacks can also be had as well as some daily specials written on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches
over all the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the
shelves of glasses.QE10, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel. (+31)
206 12 94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. Open 13:00-01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00-03:00, Sun 12:00-01:00. AB
IN DE WILDEMAN
Just look at the chalkboard above the door to see whats
on draught at one of Amsterdams best beer bars, which is
located in a former distillery. Even brew hounds like us are
a little overwhelmed in a place like this, but thankfully the
friendly staff can suggest one of the nearly 20 beers available on draught or perhaps one of the 200 brews In de
Wildeman offers in bottles. If youre still not convinced, the
bartender will pour you a small sample to taste before you
order. The spacious interior consists of the usual wooden
tables, but also a black and white tiled floor and a long
green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and cheese
to frites are also available.QA1, Kolksteeg 3, tel. (+31)
206 38 23 48, www.indewildeman.nl. Open 12:0001:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00.
Autumn 2015
21
Nightlife
BILLIARDS & POOL
BREW PUBS
CLUB-8
Its difficult not to get distracted by all the sports on TV
as you try to sink your own ball in this modern pool caf.
On the first floor youll find a spacious, well-equipped club.
QC8, Admiraal de Ruyterweg 56b, tel. (+31) 206 85 17
03, www.club-8.nl. Open 14:00-03:00, Fri 14:00-04:00,
Sat 12:00-04:00, Sun 12:00-03:00.
BROUWERIJ T IJ
You really have to want to find this place. Thankfully, we
did, but our thirst for new brews is, of course, the stuff of
legends. Just look for the giant windmill about a 20-minute
walk northwest of the Artis Zoo along the Hoogte Kadijk to
find this microbrewery offering at least eight unique beers
including something akin to a pilsner as well as the spicy
(their word) Columbus, which has an alcohol content of 9%.
The tasting room was renovated in 2015 and is much classier
than it used to be, but loads of people still choose to imbibe
at the picnic tables outside. Beers are remarkably cheap by
local standards, but only snacks are available so you might
want to pace yourself. Take tram No.10 toward Azartplein
from Leidseplein, get off at the Hoogte Kadijk stop and turn
right.QK5, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 206 22 83 25, www.
brouwerijhetij.nl. Open 14:00-20:00. BS
DE KEU
There are dozens of pool tables and a great Bohemian
vibe here at one of Amsterdams oldest billiards halls. The
walls are covered in old movie posters and theres always
plenty of people hanging about with drinks in their hands.
Open until the wee hours of the morning, the Cue is much
more than just a place to play eight ball. Its also one of
Amsterdam Wests best late night hotspots.QE9, Eerste
Helmerstraat 5 - 7, tel. (+31) 202 30 05 51, www.dekeu.
nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00.
PLAN B
Walk down a pleasant, brightly lit alleyway off of Overtoom to find what has to be the biggest pool hall and
sports bar combination youve probably ever seen. A
dozen tables are kept in the main hall of what used to be
a church, while less ambitious patrons lay about on comfortable chairs and couches smoking and drinking to their
hearts content. Live sports are shown on a number of TVs
and are also projected onto a huge screen on the far wall.
One snooker table is also available and eight-ball competitions are held on Monday nights.QE10, Overtoom 209,
tel. (+31) 208 45 62 21, www.planbovertoom.nl. Open
16:00-01:00, Wed 14:00-01:00, Fri 16:00-03:00, Sat
14:00-03:00. AX
THE POOL HOLE
Unlike most pool halls, this one also has plenty of areas
where you can sit down and relax without the unmistakable clack-clack of billiard balls smacking into one another. That said, this partially sunken cellar offers half a
dozen tables and a laid back Bohemian atmosphere with
good tunes on the sound system and lots of candlelight.
QA3, Voetboogstraat 3, tel. (+31) 203 30 08 13, www.
thepoolhole.com. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:0003:00. AB
DE BIERFABRIEK
Watch out! Youre bound to end up completely hammered,
slipping and sliding across the peanut shell-littered floor,
especially if you choose to sit at a table with your own
beer tap at this large minimalist space inspired by American bars. The Beer Factory offers the simplest of menus
that basically consists of mouth-watering grilled chicken
and beer, which can be both its strongest and weakest
selling point depending on your point of view. QA2/3,
Rokin 75, tel. (+31) 205 28 99 10, www.bierfabriek.nl.
Open 15:00-01:00, Fri 15:00-02:00, Sat 13:00-02:00, Sun
13:00-24:00. (14 - 19). PJAK
PROEFLOKAAL DE PRAEL
Hidden in a narrow alley between two of the city centres
busiest pedestrian streets youll find the tasting room of
the De Prael microbrewery. Sample all of the companys
beers in an atmosphere thats too hip and positively overwhelming to describe. Three levels of old mismatched
furniture, white tiles, faux Persian rugs, wooden tables and
beer memorabilia await you in a space thats industrial,
old-fashioned and modern all at once, not to mention the
actual brewery itself visible behind a glass wall. Good pub
grub is also on the menu and rock tunes dominate the
soundtrack.QB1, Oudezijds Armsteeg 26, tel. (+31) 204
08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 13:00-23:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 13:00-01:00. Closed Mon. A
BROWN BARS
Give in to temptation this autumn
CAF BRANDON
This classic brown bar is popular with both young and old,
but tourists are seldom seen here. Perhaps its the lack of a
TV or the whiff of cigarette smoke that discourages them
from entering. Maybe the sight of rugs as tablecloths is
off-putting. In any case, its a good place to meet locals,
especially in the evening when it fills up, and the location
is picturesque to say the least.QE5, Keizersgracht 157,
tel. (+31) 654 34 71 36. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:0003:00. JX
Nightlife
CAF CHRIS
Only a five-minute walk from the Anne Frank House is a
place that claims to be Amsterdams oldest continuously
running caf. Its said that the place came into existence
in 1624 as a public bar for the Westerkerks construction
workers who recieved their salaries here and probably
left most of it on the premises too. The selection of beer
is nothing special in comparison to the curiousities of the
place itself like the old toilet pull chain on the wall outside
the bathroom.QE5, Bloemstraat 42, tel. (+31) 206 24 59
42, www.cafechris.nl. Open 15:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 15:0002:00, Sun 15:00-21:00. JGB
CAF EIK EN LINDE
Although the original Oak and Lime caf opened in 1865
in what is now the Artis Zoo, its current incarnation a
couple of blocks away has been around since 1967. This
classic brown bar is more spacious than similar establishments and you even have to go outside to smoke! Some
excellent brews are available in bottles and on draught for
decent prices and you can order soups, omelettes, steaks
and other traditional Dutch food. Relax on an intricately
carved wooden bench, pet the bars cat that often sleeps
by the window or try to figure out how locals can play pool
on a table without pockets.QI5, Plantage Middenlaan
22, tel. (+31) 206 22 57 16, www.eikenlinde.nl. Open
11:00-01:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 14:00-02:00. Closed
Sun, ABW
CAF PAPENEILAND
This unusual brown bar dating back to 1642 offers great
views of canals and church spires from its excellent position at the picturesque intersection of the Prinsengracht
and the Brouwersgracht. Inside youll find an antique interior of wood furniture, old blue and white tiles on the
walls and a beautiful, if a bit dusty, Delft chandelier. Other
outstanding dcor features include copper bed warmers,
an ornately decorated cast iron stove and white Christmas
lights strung from the high ceiling. Unlike other bars of
its genre, Caf Papeneiland also offers seating above the
claustrophobic bar where patrons are allowed to smoke.
Sip a jenever with one of the old-timers or order one of a
handful of beers on draught.QE4, Prinsengracht 2, tel.
(+31) 206 24 19 89, www.papeneiland.nl. BX
DE PILSENER CLUB (DE ENGELSE REET)
Tucked away in a tiny alleyway off the Kalverstraat, this
simple brown bar is perhaps best known for the fact that
it really has no bar to speak of. Polite male gentlemen in
neckties pour a wide variety of delicious brews from a
back alcove/closet area lending this dark room an odd, yet
old world atmosphere. The peeling wallpaper, wrinkled
lithographs of Amsterdam and sand-covered floor only
add to the feeling that De Pilsener Club is a time capsule
that only locals and the occasional wayward tourist bother
to enter. But in our opinion, its a welcome respite from
the international chains and big brands that line the citys
main shopping artery outside.QA3, Begijnensteeg 4,
tel. (+31) 206 23 17 77. Open 12:00-01:00. Closed Sun.
BOCK BEER FESTIVAL

What began as a small gathering of bock beer enthusiasts in a tiny Amsterdam
brown bar back in 1978
has evolved into a threeday brew festival that attracts beer aficionados from
around Europe. Organised
by PINT, an organisation
that promotes traditional Dutch brews, this years festival will take place from October 23 - 25 in the Beurs
van Berlage building (Damrak 277, www.beursvanberlage.nl). Admission will set you back around 10 and
each beer costs roughly 2.50. Last years event was
attended by over 11,000 beer fans and live music will
entertain festival-goers, so youre guaranteed a good
time. Opening times are as follows: Fri 17:00 - 23:00, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. For more information
visit www.facebook.com/pintbokbierfestival.
ONDER DE OOIEVAAR (UNDER THE STORK)
Its obvious that this popular brown bar is run by a new generation of beer and spirits purveyors. Its website is advertised prominently on the front window, the interior is made
of wood, but hardly worn, the clientele look young and
professional and smoking is strictly forbidden. An excellent
selection of beer is available from Trappist brews to local
concoctions from the IJ microbrewery right here in Amsterdam. Cocktails, snacks, a TV and even a dartboard are also
available. In short, its a cosy, modern 21st-century take on
a classic concept.QH7, Utrechtsestraat 119, tel. (+31) 206
24 68 36, www.onderdeooievaar.nl. Open 10:00-01:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00-03:00, Sun 10:30-01:00. AB
CASINOS & GAMBLING

HOLLAND CASINO
Located on the water between Leidseplein and the Rijksmuseum, this stylish casino has plenty of eating and
drinking options and a great summer terrace. Inside youll
find well-known games like poker, roulette, black jack and
loads of slot machines in two separate halls and focused
gamblers seated in expensive leather chairs doing battle
with machines with imaginative names like Rich Girls, King
Kong Cash, Outback Jack and Cash Fever. QF8, Max Eu
weplein 62, tel. (+31) 205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino.
nl. Open 12:00-03:00. POJAUGKX
MERKUR CASINO
This casino has 750m2 of space, which means 185 players
can gamble simultaneously. Even if you dont like gambling, take a look at the lush interior in this completely
renovated old theatre.QG7, Reguliersbreestraat 31 - 33,
www.merkur-casino.nl. Open 10:00-24:00, Sun 13:0024:00. OJA
Autumn 2015
23
Nightlife
ADULT INSTITUTIONS
CASA ROSSO
This iconic live sex theatre provides continuous action
for as long as you like. The programme varies over
the course of the evening and ranges in theme from
simple strip numbers and couples fornicating on a rotating bed to lesbian lovers and vibrator acts. In fact,
it seems that Casa Rosso provides something for all of
the popular fetishes including a husky woman so as
not to neglect the chubby chasers among us.QB-2,
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106 - 108, tel. (+31) 206
27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. Open 19:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: 35; 50 including
four drinks. A
THE BANANEN BAR & CLUB
Downstairs for 50 you can drink all you can swill for
one hour on the lounge bar with a variety of talented
women who can do all kinds of interesting things with
ping pong balls, markers and of course bananas. Upstairs is the club, which has a, shall we say, more dignified atmosphere where guests pay 10 admission
to sit by the pole where beautiful women show their
moves in various states of undress. Ordering drinks
is mandatory.QB-1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 37,
tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.bananenbar.nl. Open
20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Admission: bar
45, club 10.
CLUBS
AKHNATON
Its pretty, its got a small bar with white-teethed barmen
and its got a low stage for all your funky dance moves.
The basic ingredients for a good night out, right? Akhnaton hosts several recurring parties that have a little something for everyone including glow-in-the-dark parties,
queer parties, food parties and even fetish parties with
surprisingly user-friendly prices. Naturally, its not all beer
and skittles here all the time, but you can usually find a
good party at the weekend. Check its website for upcoming events.QA1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 25, tel. (+31) 206 24
33 96, www.akhnaton.nl. B
The Red Light district looks a little different in the cold light of day
CLUB ESCAPE
Dont let the name fool you. When partying in Amsterdam, theres no real escaping this large collection of clubs,
unsubtly situated at the Rembrandtplein. Since 1986, Escape has been successfully run by twin brothers. The shrill
house music in Escape Club wont appeal to everyone,
but you can move on to four other separate areas: Deluxe,
Studio, Caff and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway because
youre caught between high school students and tourists?
QB3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22 11 11, www.
escape.nl. Open Thu 23:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00,
Sun 23:00-04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE
CLUB UP
Where would you go partying as an artist in Amsterdam?
Most would say De Kring, but thats a members-only place.
Club Up serves as a spin-off dance club of De Kring, and
the best part is: its open for everyone. With paintings on
the wall, a tight design and lounge couches next to the
dance floor, the club aims for diverse audiences on different evenings. However, there isnt really anything that
makes this place stand out from other like-minded dance
clubs. It might also take you a while to locate the place,
since the narrow entrance is set between two tall buildings, which can make finding Up quite a downer.QF7,
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26-I, tel. (+31) 206 23 69 85,
www.clubup.nl. Open Thu 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 22:0005:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PUG
NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY
Were more at home at a punk rock show than a house
club, but even we could sense that something special
was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens
through 40-somethings genuinely appreciate the professional international DJs from as far away as the States, who
know how to get a crowd moving here. The style is casual
so dont worry about your trainers and leave your D&G
gear at home. This isnt exactly the place for the superficial glitterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music. Belly
up to the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join the
action.QF7, Lijnbaansgracht 238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00
08, www.sugarfactory.nl. Open Thu, Sun 21:00-04:00,
Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission:
5 - 12. AE
WINSTON KINGDOM
The sleaziness of touristy Warmoesstraat, Amsterdams
notoriously naughty street, might make one think twice
about a visit to Winston Kingdom, but that would be a
mistake. This dark graffiti-sprayed club actually offers decent dance nights and smashing live performances from
tomorrows big indie and electro acts like Justice and The
Gaslight Anthem who have both played here. Filled with
a surprising mix of lost tourists and music-loving locals,
this is an excellent escape from the Warmoes, but theres
plenty of sleaze to find here too, if youre really looking
for it.QA2, Warmoesstraat 131, tel. (+31) 206 23 13
80, www.winston.nl. Open 21:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 21:0005:00. Admission: 5 - 10. E
Nightlife
COCKTAILS & LOUNGE BARS
IRISH PUBS
DOOR 74
Talk about a hidden gem! Youll definitely walk past this
place a few times before realising theres a doorbell and a
mysterious big black door worth noticing. But its not just
a trendy concept or an attempt to be hip. Inside youll be
moved by excellent drinks, including vintage Champagnes
if you can afford them, attentive bar staff, free olives and
nuts and a fun speakeasy atmosphere. But dont forget to
make a reservation or youll have to queue up with all the
others ringing the doorbell.QB3, Reguliersdwarsstraat
74I, tel. (+31) 634 04 51 22, www.door-74.com. Open
20:00-02:00. JA
MOLLY MALONES
Although this cosy cellar pub has had a Celtic makeover with an Irish flag, Guinness memorabilia and the
odd shamrock, there are also plenty of old Dutch liquor
casks lined up against the wall like the ones you see
at local jenever joints. Order a Kilkenny and some Irish
salmon or spare ribs, watch football on SkySports and
listen to occasional live music on weekend nights here.
Naturally, plenty of whiskey is also on offer including
some good single malts. Although it has all the makings of yet another tourist trap, its location on a quiet
canal lends it a laid back quality thats hard to find at
similar establishments.QB1, Oudezijds Kolk 9, tel.
(+31) 206 24 11 50, www.mollyinamsterdam.com.
Open 15:00-01:00, Fri 12:30-03:00, Sat 11:00-03:00,
Sun 11:00-01:00. AE B
DVARS
According to Dvars, its not just a location, its a family.
This place has attitude and its going to need it occupying the spot where the legendary gay-friendly bar Arc
and the short-lived Eve had their adventures. Unlike the
rest of the Reguliersdwarsstraat, however, the bustling
Dvars sports a rather mixed audience who appreciate the
enormous aquariums stocked with tropical fish and the
provocative pictures on the walls. One thing that cant be
ignored is the the brightly lit interior that makes you feel
as if youve stepped into a microwave oven.QB3, Regu
liersdwarsstraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 20 91 05, www.dvars.
nl. Open 16:00-01:00. Closed Mon.
SKYLOUNGE
One of the best views of the historic heart of Amsterdam
can now be found at SkyLounge. This trendy cocktail bar
on the 11th floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton is a purveyor
of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terrific view of
the city centre is actually priceless. Fortunately, the staff
are a little slow at this altitude so you can make your elaborate cocktail last quite a while at this breathtaking location.
QG/H4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00,
www.skyloungeamsterdam.com. Open 11:00-01:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00-03:00. PJAUEBKXW
SKYY BAR
On clear days you can see the sea from here but on most
evenings the trendy Skyy Bar (their spelling) is a popular
haven for stargazers looking for celebrities here on earth.
The immediate surroundings of this hotel bar are pure
paradise for anyone who wants to catch a glimpse of the
fashion world. Whatever your reason for coming here its a
good place to visit even if you just want to have a look at
the beautiful girls in sexy outfits while sipping a cocktail
or some champagne. We recommend the surprisingly affordable porn star martini, which is a tasty drink indeed.
QN3, Hendrikje Stoffelsstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08
00, www.skyybar.nl. Open 18:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 18:0002:00. AULGKW
instagram.com/in_your_pocket
TEMPLE BAR
This Irish pub offers the usual Guinness and Kilkenny
brews as well as domestic beer on draught and you can,
of course, watch sports on TV while eating a big breakfast. Americans will also be happy to know that Temple
Bar shows NFL football games every Sunday night during the season and you can even order a Bud longneck
should you feel the need to carry the nostalgia to an unnecessary extreme. If youre curious about the interior
you can expect exposed brick walls and pleather upholstered benches and booths. Some international snacks
like dim sum and chicken satay can also be had here, but
you have to pay 0.50 for the toilets!QB2, Kloveniers
burgwal 2, tel. (+31) 204 27 44 00. Open 10:00-00:30,
Fri, Sat 10:00-01:30. AB
RED LIGHT STREETS

Dont be one of those tourists
fresh off the train that asks the
nearest local where the Red
Light District is located. Its
not hard to find so just walk
straight down the Damrak, as
most people do, and make a
left at the Grasshopper. Then
just keep walking pretty much
straight ahead until you hit
Oudezijds Voorburgwal and,
one canal farther, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which is
the main strip with lots of ladies and most of the sex
theatres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old
Church) is also chock full of working girls and you
should definitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg, Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby.
Although not as popular with tourists, theres also a
street full of red lights between the Spuistraat and the
Singel on Oude Nieuwstraat.
Autumn 2015
25
Nightlife
JENEVER BARS
LIVE MUSIC
IN DE OLOFSPOORT
The historic building that houses this charming bar was
built in 1618 and replaced the 14th-century St. Olafs Gate,
hence its unusual name. The Olofspoort offers over 200
different spirits including traditional and exotic local jenevers, Dutch liqueurs and bitters as well as homemade
cherry and liquorice liqueurs. Beer drinkers wont be disappointed either as the Belgian Affligem Double on draught
is delicious. Unlike other tasting rooms of it genre, this one
provides plenty of space for its patrons.QB1, Nieuwe
brugsteeg 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 39 18, www.olofspoort.
com. Open 16:00-00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00-01:30, Sun 15:0022:00. Closed Tue. A
ALTO JAZZ CAF

This legendary Amsterdam club is about as long as a train
car, but perhaps even narrower. Youll definitely have to
make some physical contact with other music enthusiasts
to get to the stage where live jazz, funk or salsa acts perform every night in front of a packed crowd of hipsters, locals and foreigners in the know. Its dark the way a jazz club
should be and has something of a clandestine speakeasy
feel to it. Theres no cover charge, but even simple drinks
like a Jack and Coke can set you back dearly.QF8, Korte
Leidsedwarsstraat 115, tel. (+31) 206 26 32 49, www.
jazz-cafe-alto.nl. Open 21:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 21:0004:00. AE
PROEFLOKAAL DE OOIEVAAR
On the modern nightlife front this tiny one-room bar in the
Red Light district can hardly compete with neighbouring
sports bars and coffeeshops. It offers no TV, no internet connection and no ganja. People here actually have to talk to
one another to pass the time while sipping one of dozens of
traditional jenevers that line the walls of this ancient bar and
this is precisely why we like it. The barman wears a necktie
and offers a smile and a chat to anyone who comes in not
to mention a boiled egg from the bar - a local tradition. You
can also have a beer here, but enjoy this endangered slice of
the past while you can.QB1, Sint Olofspoort 1, tel. (+31)
204 20 80 04, www.proeflokaaldeooievaar.nl. Open
12:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00.
BOURBON STREET
This place actually looks a bit like a barn on the inside with
the exception of the musical instruments hanging from the
rafters and the chandeliers hanging above the bar. At the
weekend its hard to manoeuvre through the sea of bodies
assembled here to listen to blues and rock bands and the
bouncers dont seem to have any qualms about letting as
many people in as is physically possible, but at least youre
getting real entertainment for your 5 cover and not the
blaring Top 40 and techno at neighbouring bars. If youd
like to use the toilet, try coming on a weeknight. Live music
every evening.QF7, Leidsekruisstraat 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206
23 34 40, www.bourbonstreet.nl. Open 22:00-04:00, Fri,
Sat 22:00-05:00. Admission: 3 - 5. AE
WYNAND FOCKINK
This ancient room that looks more like a neglected museum than a popular bar and tourist attraction has been
serving unique Dutch liqueurs and spirits with names like
Rose Without Thorns, Bridal Tears and My Aunts Water
since 1679. A thick layer of dust covers all of the empty
antique bottles as well as the full ones that cause the
wooden shelves to sag precariously above one another.
Unfortunately, its a little hard to find as the Krasnapolsky
Hotel has enveloped it over the years, but if you do eventually get here dont forget to slurp your liqueur without
using your hands when you take your first sip a local tradition.QA2, Pijlsteeg 31, tel. (+31) 206 39 26 95, www.
wynand-fockink.nl. Open 15:00-21:00.
CAF CASABLANCA
Have you ever seen a 13-piece band including a horn section and a drummer perform in youre living room? Well
you dont have to. Come to this small bar where live music on a grand scale is guaranteed nearly every evening.
Domelsch, Hertog Jan and Hoegaarden are available on
draught, violins, trumpets and accordions adorn the walls
and old master replicas are suspended from the ceiling. If
this all sounds a little too rowdy for your tastes, you can
always take in some cabaret or a magic show at its bar/
restaurant/theatre next door.QB1, Zeedijk 26E, tel. (+31)
612 20 05 19, www.cafecasablanca.nl. Open 20:0003:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-04:00. AE
Lift your spirits with a local beverage
THE WATERHOLE
This is the kind of place where you would expect Jim Morrison (or someone like him) to be a regular. A true roadhouse. Its dark, loud and little bit smoky and every square
meter of wall space is covered either in booze bottles, rock
posters, graffiti or musical instruments. Listen to live music from folk and blues to rock nearly every night, shoot
pool on three tables or order a Bavaria draught, which is
nothing special, but plenty of good beers are available in
bottles. If you need another excuse to come, it also offers
a good happy hour until 21:00 on weeknights.QE8, Kor
teleidsedwarsstraat 49, tel. (+31) 206 20 89 04, www.
waterhole.nl/Waterhole/WELKOM.html. Open 14:0003:00. EBX
Nightlife
PUBS
BALLS
This aptly named pub doesnt have much to do with
sports or, in our estimation, courageous men, but it does
offer three red felt pool tables on the second floor for 2
per game. On the ground floor you can expect a typically
Dutch brown bar with a not so typical copper-topped
bar with loads of stools. Bavaria beer is poured from billiard ball taps, but if youd like something better Duvel is
available in bottles. Rock music seems to rule the realm
here, but you can forgo the guitar chords in the smoking
room where you can watch sports on TV.QF6, Reguliers
dwarstraat 37. Open 09:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00.
CAF THIJSSEN
Named after the bloke whose statue graces the square
outside, this friendly neighbourhood pub is frequented
by people of all ages and stripes and is known for its impressive beer selection and huge, yet casual terrace that
instantly quadruples the bars capacity each summer.
The interior is pure bruin caf with a long bar that is only
knee-high on one side. No matter, tiny stools were added
to compensate for the lack of altitude. A huge cupboard
is stocked with board games from checkers and chess to
Risk and that old school classic Boggle.QE4, Brouwers
gracht 107, tel. (+31) 206 23 89 94, www.cafethijssen.
nl. Open 08:00-01:00, Fri 08:00-03:00, Sat 07:30-03:00,
Sun 09:00-01:00. BW
SPORTS BARS
PLAYERS
Youll find this cellar sports bar full of foreign men watching football on SkySports only a stones throw from Dam
Square. Occasionally youll even see a bored spouse or girlfriend faking enthusiasm for the match of day. The louderthan-life commentary and the giant photos of the terraces almost make you believe that youre in the stadium.
In any event, its a great place to watch sports, its open
very late and it pours Guinness and Kilkenny brews, not
to mention pitchers of local Bavaria. Pool tables are also
available.QA2, Warmoesstraat 170, tel. (+31) 204 20 05
63, www.playersamsterdam.nl. Open 19:00-03:00, Fri
16:00-04:00, Sat 12:00-04:00, Sun 12:00-03:00. A
SATELLITE SPORTS CAF
If youre hungry for sports and, well, lots of food, then a
visit to this place with the boring, yet aptly chosen name
of Satellite Sports Caf might just be in order. The place
is decorated with flat screen TVs and not much else,
which means its clearly meant for gents with a hankering for football and an appetite worthy of a Viking feas.
Order enormous English breakfasts and steaks or test your
stomachs mettle with its speciality: all-you-can-eat ribs.
Shot specials and pitchers of Heineken are available on
two floors on busy Leidseplein.QF8, Leidseplein 11, tel.
(+31) 204 27 25 29, www.satellitesportscafe.nl. Open
08:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00. AB
DOCUMENTARY FILM FEST

Each autumn documentary film aficionados arrive in
Amsterdam to see the very latest films about true life
in various cultures around the globe. This years documentaries will be shown from November 18 - 29. Although the exact programme and screening venues
werent yet known as we went to print, you can check
out its website www.idfa.nl for more information as it
becomes available.
WHISKY BARS
WHISKYCAF L&B
Look up at the nearly unending choices of whisky on offer
on the blackboard, take a deep breath and find your favourite scotch. The aptly named Whiskycaf has over 1500
different single malts, bourbons and sour mashes from
around the world including famous highland spirits as well
as drinks from obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze in
around the central bar and ponder the possibilities.QF8,
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 82 - 84, tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62,
www.whiskyproeverijen.nl. Open 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat
20:00-04:00. A
WINE BARS
BUBBLES & WINES
In 2011 it was chosen as the best wine bar in the city, so
you can be fairly sure that youll find a cabarnet or pinot
noir that suits you. Its wide selection of 400 bottles, of
which 58 are served by the glass, is one of the main attractions of this modern hot spot. The friendly staff will
also go out of their way to help you if you havent got a
clue what to order.QA2, Nes 37, tel. (+31) 204 22 33 18,
www.bubblesandwines.com. Open 15:30-21:00, Sun
14:00-21:00. JAGW
MULLINERS WIJNLOKAAL
The first thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar,
apart from the polished wooden bar and the green
leather benches, was the smell of garlic. Escargot was being prepared along with a myriad of other delicious tapas,
but Mulliners main focus is of course wine in all its lovely
incarnations. Order a bottle or a glass from the months
specials on the blackboard and relax in this candlelit room.
QF7, Lijnbaansgracht 266/267, tel. (+31) 206 27 97
82, www.mulliners-wijnlokaal.nl. Open 17:00-24:00.
Closed Mon. A
Autumn 2015
27
Gay Amsterdam
Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel
destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands became the first country in the world to officially recognise
same-sex marriages. With four distinctive gay districts in
the city centre, rainbow flags on nearly every other street
and the annual Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the
place to be for gays worldwide. Several areas form what
can be dubbed Amsterdams Gay Village. All areas are within easy walking distance of one another. The prime area
is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay Main Street) and prime
hunting ground for upmarket clubs and trendy restaurants.
Other areas include the Kerkstraat (near Leidsestraat) with
two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and Amistad) as well as
a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in the Red Light district
(with cruise bars, a leather scene and a cinema) and the
Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs).
GAY INFORMATION
GAY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (GAYTIC)
This place offers lots of information about everything
youd like or need to know about the gay scene in Amsterdam from night clubs and parties to local shops and
publications. You can also buy stuff at its Gays&Gadgets
shop.QA-1, Spuistraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 30 14 61, www.
gaytic.nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
PINK POINT & HOMOMONUMENT (GAY INFO
CENTRE)
Pink Point provides general information about gay and
lesbian Amsterdam. Its staffed by volunteers who can provide all kinds of information about gay organisations and
about gay life in general in the Dutch capital and they also
sell some of the coolest gay souvenirs in the country. The
nearby Monument to Homosexuals or Homomonument
was designed in 1987 by artist Karin Daan to inspire and
support lesbians and gays in their struggle against discrimination. It is also a memorial to gay men and women who
were oppressed and persecuted because of their lifestyles
and beliefs. The pink triangle was the symbol homosexuals were forced to wear by the Nazis. Sadly one of the three
granite triangles is located right next to a public urinal. Talk
about discrimination!QE-5, Westermarkt, tel. (+31) 20 428
10 70, www.pinkpoint.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00. J6
NIGHTLIFE
Heres a small selection of our favourite gay hangouts.
CAFE LELLEBEL
Just around the corner from busy Rembrandtplein youll
find an alternative to the squares legendary nightlife,
which mostly consists of tourist pubs, techno clubs and
meat markets. Amsterdams only drag show bar is a cosy
haunt that resembles a brown bar rather than a cutting
edge design lounge so popular with the gay scene these
days. Transvestites, transgenders, lesbians and gays have
enjoyed its unique atmosphere since 1997 and it always
makes a good showing at the gay canal boat parade each
year. Its also the place to go for karaoke every Tuesday
night.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 4, tel. (+31) 204 27 51 39,
www.lellebel.nl. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. A
CLUB CHURCH
This is Amsterdams ultimate cruising club with two floors of
play and dance areas that offer changing theme parties and
DJs every night. Free condoms throughout the venue and
lots of more serious kinky toys are available for use including
slings, private cabins and even a Saint Andrews cross, which
has nothing to do with heraldry and everything to do with
bondage. Yep, you can get it as wild or rough as youd like
it, but its probably not the best place to have your first gay
experience and definitely not an appropriate venue to have
an after-work drink with your straight business colleagues.
QF-7, Kerkstraat 52, www.clubchurch.nl. Open Tue, Wed
20:00 - 01:00, Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun
16:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PJX
NYX
Where one falls, another rises from its ashes. The notorious
Club Exit died an early death and now theres a new kid
in town: NYX. The numerous glow-in-the-dark stairs, the
techno blasts and live music on different levels as well as
the wood, rusty metal and concrete graffiti-clad walls of
this gay-friendly venue put one in mind of a Berlin squat,
which is a refreshing deviation from most of Amsterdams polished hotspots. Visit NYX for an adventure and
to mingle with the clientele, which is neither exclusively
gay or straight, but beware of stealthy and not-so-stealthy
looks.QG-8, Reguliersdwarsstraat 42, www.clubnyx.nl.
Open Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A
Amsterdams elegible bachelors at Prik
PRIK
Prik, a relaxed and cosy caf near Dam Square, is the ideal
place to meet your friends, or even your grandmother,
and have a drink to start the night off. Prosecco on tap,
sexy cocktails, tasty finger food a live DJ and a good
vibe will probably make you linger around longer than
you might have planned. It was voted several times as
the best gay bar in town and we can certainly see why.
Prik rocks!QA-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02,
www.prikamsterdam.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PJAGB
Gay Amsterdam
REALITY
Reality is a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail
from exotic locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and
other hot destinations, so its a bit alternative compared to
the other places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa,
merengue and calypso is also available for those who are
fed up with the regular gay bubblegum. This might also
be the place to see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned
men and their toys are just a myth.QB-3, Reguliersd
warsstraat 129, tel. (+31) 206 39 30 12, www.barreality.
freehomepage.com. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00
- 04:00. PJG
TABOO
This bar boasts two big screens showing cheesy music videos, hot bartenders who are actually friendly
and attentive and a comfy smoking room on the first
floor which seems to be a winning combination especially on a street that needed a breath of fresh air.
Two happy hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 01:00) has also helped to build up a steady and happy
clientile. Sundays offer a double happy hour from
18:00 until 20:00!QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel.
(+31) 207 75 39 63, www.taboobar.nl. Open 18:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00.
PJNGBX
VIVELAVIE
An institution in the Amsterdam gay-scene, this lesbian
bar has been around for more than 30 years and is still
alive and kicking! It has an unpretentious and cosy atmosphere with old Hollywood posters on the wall. Ladies meet their friends, talk, read, eat, sip their cocktails
and dance in the late hours in this Art Deco-style space.
The menu offers tapas, tosties and other finger food
and the music varies from lounge and gay classics to
upbeat and everything in between. Even gay men like
it here!QB-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 24 01 14,
www.vivelavie.net. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 04:00. PJNBX
SAUNAS
THERMOS SAUNA
One of the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a
legendary gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies,
students and the occasional geriatric all mix in the labyrinth upstairs and the wet compartments on ground floor
that include a swimming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and
whirlpool. The dcor is still very much stuck in the 1970s
and about as cosy as the interior of a nuclear power plant,
but most men seem to focus on other things, which explains the cruisy atmosphere, especially at the weekend.
An attached hair salon and beauty parlour is also available
for those in need and free condoms can be found at the
bar.QE-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 58, office@
thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Ad
mission: under 21 years 10, 22 - 25 years 14, and 26
and over 19. PJFBKXC
BET VAN BEERENS CAF

Although Amsterdam is now one of the most gayfriendly cities in the world, it wasnt always such a pillar
of tolerance. But one woman had an incredible influence on the Dutch capital and its residents. Bet van
Beeren was born in 1902 and spent her childhood in
the Jordaan district of Amsterdam, before opening her
legendary bar t Mandje, or The Basket, on the Zeedijk
in 1927.
Although the establishment was hardly advertised as a gay bar, it was a place where anyone - gay,
straight, bi or otherwise - could have a drink, provided
they behaved themselves. In those days the police
could revoke a bars license for promoting what we
today would call a gay lifestyle, so Bet kept a close
watch on her patrons making sure there werent any
obvious displays of affection between same-sex couples with perhaps the exception of Queens Day (now
Kings Day) a tradition that began after WWII. On this
magical day pretty much anything was possible and t
Mandje gained a reputation as the ultimate place to
celebrate this Dutch holiday. That said, Bet usually took
an interest in her patrons and if she observed anyone
misbehaving, she would penalise them by cutting off
an article of clothing with a butchers knife, hence all of
the ties nailed to the ceiling.
As time passed, Bet became one of the chief attractions of her bar and thats hardly surprising given her
appearance and demeanour. An openly gay woman
who drank like a fish and smoked like chimney, she was
also known for her risqu wardrobe, which included a
leather motorcycle jacket. This naturally raised a few
eyebrows in her time. In the end, it was the drink that
eventually claimed her life. It was not uncommon for
her to knock back dozens of glasses of beer during a
typical day at the bar, but this was simply part of her
lifestyle and she enjoyed herself immensely while gaining the respect of her patrons and neighbours who
often called her the Queen of the Zeedijk. When she
passed away in 1967, she was laid out on the billiard table of the bar where 30,000 people paid their respects
to her over the course of two days.
The bar finally closed its doors in 1983, but Bets
niece, Diana van Laar, re-opened the bar with the help
of her husband in 2008. Caf t Mandje B-1, Zeedijk
63, tel. (+31) 206 22 53 75, www.cafetmandje.nl.
Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 15:00 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
Autumn 2015
29
Coffeeshops
Whether you smoke the herb or not, coffeeshops in Amsterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose
the right one and itll be an experience youll never forget.
Choose the wrong one and you youll probably forget that
you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many different types of coffeeshops, for different kinds of people.
Some look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan monasteries (once youre stoned) and others like super-modern
cafs. And in the summer, many have outside seating,
sometimes near the canal.
Coffeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long
history (Mellow Yellow was the first one in 1973), even
during times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been
imitated across much of Europe, as well as the Americas,
proof enough that the system works (for the evil criminal
gangs anyway).
Given the citys status as a major shipping hub and its
maze of canals, its not hard to imagine how drug trafficking in this city was an attractive option. Coffeeshops could
easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the
many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same
manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit. Today,
they are mostly supplied by car, a much less romantic option.
After extensive wandering around, a list of dozens of
coffeeshops not to be missed during your stay is provided
here. They are selected from across the city, so that youre
never at any point far away from one of these exceptional
Dutch institutions.
BITTER... BALLS?
The name bitterballen, or
bitter balls, conjures up all
kinds of images and not
entirely wholesome ideas
from sour edibles hardly fit
for consumption to a sex
toy you might find in the
Red Light district. In fact,
these deep-fried morsels of
God knows what are a staple of Dutch cuisine and are
on offer in nearly every caf throughout the country.
Youll see refined people in suits gulping down these
breadcrumb encrusted snacks at gallery openings just
as often as you see construction workers slowly chewing them with a beer after a days work. Why slowly you
might ask. The soft interior, a ragout of meat, parsley,
onion, spices and other mystery ingredients is often
served at a temperature usually only seen in magma
chambers beneath volcanoes. This always creates interesting facial expressions, unusual sucking sounds and
the inevitable grasping for any cold liquid available. If
youre too scared to try this national treat, watch our
video at www.inyourpocket.com/Netherlands/Amsterdam/Restaurants. If you do decide to give it a go, then
dont forget to dip it in some tasty Dutch mustard.
SYMBOL KEY
O Casino
T Child-friendly

V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
COFFEESHOPS
Although the Netherlands was once known as a safe
haven for people who enjoy the herb, conservative poli
tics and a national law have sent many a foreign toker
looking for less turbulent shores to have a joint. Offi
cially the law states that only residents of Holland may
buy and smoke soft drugs like marijuana and hash at
coffeeshops in the Netherlands. Although initially en
forced in other areas of the country (but not now), the
wise and commerce driven Amsterdammers have done
what they usually do when they dont like a law. The
city and the local police have turned a blind eye to pot
smoking fearing a catastrophic loss of tourism euros.
Basically, what were saying is that you can go to any of
the following places and smoke to your lungs content.
ABRAXAS
Down a side-street off one of the main boulevards in
Amsterdam Centrum, youll find this surprisingly cosy
medium-size coffeeshop spread over several narrow
floors. With extensive mosaics and elaborate dcor, it
includes large comfortable banquettes and pleasantly
mellow lighting aided by candles on every table. Well
organised and efficient staff make this an attractive option for a relaxed (but brief) break while touring the citys
many delights. Longer stays at this coffeeshop will permit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfortable smoking session.QA-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14,
abraxas@abraxas.tv, www.abraxas.tv. Open 10:00 01:00. J
AMNESIA
The first thing to be said about this coffeeshop is that its
part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup
Awards and therefore should be on the map for any connoisseur. Even if youre just eager to sit down in pleasant
surroundings, this is a good option. With a view of the canal, down a quiet side street, this establishment boasts a
pleasant dcor of purple swirls and gold and black as well
as equally pleasant and efficient staff. A choice of games
and vaporizers will ensure your time at this coffeeshop is
well spent, and outside seating in the summer makes this
a prime summer coffeeshop.QE-5, Herengracht 133, tel.
(+31) 204 27 78 74. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Coffeeshops
BARNEYS
This coffeeshop review is more about the three establishments which are part of Barneys coffeeshop empire and all
located on Haarlemmerstraat within close walking distance
of each other. One venue is a coffeeshop, the other is a bar/
restaurant and the final one is a souvenir shop/bar and
smoke-room, meaning that in between these three places,
you can smoke drink and eat to your hearts content in an attractive environment with a pleasant dcor. Popular particularly with tourists, it provides its customers with arguably
one of the best choices in life; get high and eat, get high and
drink, or get high and have a coffee. And to get high with
a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful choices to be
made here, but once your desires have been met, it is always
good to remember that the souvenir shop will provide you
with numerous ways to annoy your boss/ mother-in-law/
lecturer/ law enforcement agency (delete where appropriate).QD-3, Haarlemmerstraat 105, tel. (+31) 204 27 94 69,
www.barneys.biz. Open 07:30 - 01:00. P
BLUEBIRD
Bluebird might seem at first like a small coffeeshop, but
the upstairs is substantially larger than the ground floor
and the window-walls over the street are very effective in
giving the place a light and airy feel, which also provides
great people watching opportunities. These windows also
provide the best lighting to the extensively intricate artwork covering the inside walls from top to bottom, forcing the eye (stoned or not) to wander endlessly. Games
are also on offer like a pinball machine and the crowd is
of a local variety with a mix of some tourists as well. The
staff is friendly and outdoor roadside seating is available
in good weather. The availability of vaporizers make this
an ideal location for a trippy experience (along, of course,
with the dcor).QB-2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat 71, tel.
(+31) 206 22 52 32, info@coffeeshopbluebird.nl, www.
coffeeshopbluebird.nl. Open 09:30 - 01:00. GBX
EMBRACING THE HAZE

When experimenting with soft drugs in Amsterdam
one should also bear in mind that there are usually two
types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC content
and creates a strong stoned or high feeling; and nonhaze which has a somewhat milder effect. The price
difference may sometimes be quite substantial between these two types, as haze weed plants (usually
strong sativas - for those in the know) are bigger and
harder to grow properly than non-haze plants (usually
strong indicas). If youre a non-regular smoker, or even a
regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze to get your
bearings and then perhaps try a haze joint to see how
you feel. For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily consumption), haze weed will show you how truly stoned
you can get, but beware as some types may stick you
to your chair and you may drool (well, maybe not the
second part). Just remember to have fun!
The Red Light district is full of coffeeshops
BULLDOG NO. 90
Arguably the first ever coffeeshop in Amsterdam, this establishment combines cannabis history and getting high
with an excellent central location. With seating overlooking the canal on the inside and seating on the edge of the
canal outside, this coffeeshop is an ideal place any time of
year. The dcor of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper articles and the orange (youll understand once you
get here) tells the story of this venerated establishment,
which gives off a pub-like atmosphere. Computers with
internet access are available (for a fee) . Finally, the herb
purchasing area is seperate from the drinks area. QB-2,
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel. (+31) 206 25 98 64,
www.thebulldog.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. JB
BULLDOG PALACE
Fancy going down the police station for a spliff? Well in
Amsterdam, you can, although the police station has been
transformed into a multi-storey smoking, drinking and
dancing venue. Its a large, spacious place with a pleasant
conservatory style smoking area at the front and features
two separate downstairs areas: one for weed and one for
souvenirs. Upstairs is what can only be described as a dark
nightclub with plenty of coloured lights jumping around,
but that could have just been the effects of the haze. Alcohol including cocktails is available making it an ideal spot
for hanging out and shooting some pool in the evening
until the proper clubbing kicks off. Internet stations are also
available for downloading that evenings soundtrack.QF-7,
Leidseplein 17, tel. (+31) 206 27 19 08, www.thebulldog.
com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PEGBXW
COFFEESHOP 36
Its canal view at the back sold us on this place and its
close to the station which is ideal if youre in Amsterdam
only briefly. This coffeeshop is housed on several different
levels, which isnt exactly an advantage if youre travelling with wheel-bound suitcases. (We like to get down
to business as soon as we arrive). The low lighting, strategically placed wrought-iron gates and the metal rock
interior will suit some more than others, but the friendly
staff and separation of weed and drink sales (rare so close
to the station) make it a worthwhile addition to our list.
QB-1, Warmoestraat 36, tel. (+31) 206 24 24 93. Open
10:00 - 01:00.
Autumn 2015
31
Coffeeshops
DOLPHINS
You wont find a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam
or any other place on the planet for that matter. With an
overwhelming marine theme and the friendly dolphin as
your guide you can make a selection from the affordable
and obviously placed menu, sit down at one of the many
high quality vaporizers and just do your thing. The constant bubbling and of course your choice of herb will make
you feel as if submerged in another world. If inhaling at a
stool isnt your thing, there are large sofas to sink into and
the friendly staff can ensure all your needs are met down
here underwater, although you may have to swim to the
surface (or the bar) to get served.QF-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel.
(+31) 207 74 33 36. Open 10:30 - 01:00. GBXW
EASY TIMES
With a selection of over 40 intoxicating types of weed and
hash, Easy Times has no shortage of ways to get your smoke
on. If youd prefer a bong or vaporizer to attain the high youre
looking for then settle down in the Middle Eastern-style
lounge in the back. Unlike many coffeeshops that have that
run-down, slightly neglected quality about them, this place
gets high marks for its stylish interior that one could almost
call trendy. A small outdoor terrace right on the Prinsengracht
is also available and you can buy funny souvenirs and smoking accessories at the small booth at the entrance.QPrin
sengracht 476, tel. (+31) 206 26 57 09, www.easytimesamsterdam.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JNXSW
GRASSHOPPER
This grand establishment is a one-stop shop for food, drink
and smoke. Its close enough to the station for a one-hour
stopover or you could even just grab a beer, a steak and
a joint without even leaving the premises. The multiple
floors cover each of these aspects and it has a pre-club feel
in the evening with private booth tables, colourful lights
and bar games like pool. The massive outdoor terrace
overlooking the canal is one of the best spots in summer
for boat, street and people watching and is, not surprisingly, incredibly popular with tourists.QA-1, Oudebrug
steeg 16, tel. (+31) 206 26 12 59, www.thegrasshopper.
nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PJB
GREENHOUSE CENTRUM
Part of one of the best coffeeshop chains, this establishment in a busy part of the city centre is quite busy itself
and with good reason! The outside seating area next to
the canal away from the main drag is an ideal spot for
smoking on a sunny day. When the weather does go bad,
however, its colourful interior is a pleasure for stoned eyes.
The product sold here is some of the best in the Netherlands, not to mention the most varied, and well worth
analysis under a microscope, which is conveniently found
at the same counter. The lively atmosphere and large tables may not make it the best place for a relax and a read,
but is probably more appropriate for meeting new people
and perhaps planning a night out.QB-2, Oudezijds Voor
burgwal 191, tel. (+31) 206 27 17 39, www.greenhouse.
org. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JB
Theres no shortage of ganja souvenirs in Amsterdam
KATSU
Katsus laid-back atmosphere and its impressive cannabis
selection are just two reasons to head over to the De Pijp
neighbourhood. The friendly owner has created an atmosphere where locals, and the occasional tourist, can feel
at home while smoking a joint or taking a toke of a bong.
To avoid confusion make sure that the staff weighs your
goodies in front of you and skip the potent 0G18 weed unless youre a very experienced smoker. According to new
laws that will be implemented soon, it will be categorised
as a hard drug.QH-10, 1e van der Helststraat 70, www.
katsu.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. X
LA TERTULIA
Open since 1983, one of the oldest coffeeshops in Amsterdam is also one of the most appealing and original for smokers and non-smokers alike. Apart from the relatively ordinary
weed menu, the environment which the friendly mother
and daughter create here, includes extensive detailed artwork on the outside as well as the inside, providing trippy
experiences at every corner. The selection of drinks and inexpensive sandwiches and toasties is more extensive than
in most coffeeshops in Amsterdam and the many plants,
as well as the multiple levels and patio furniture make one
feel as if they were picnicking in a garden. The outside seating next to the canal in a quiet area of the city makes for a
relaxed break while wandering the beautiful surroundings.
Dont leave without taken at least one bite from their delicious home-made weed brownies!QE-6, Prinsengracht
312, tel. (+31) 206 23 85 03, www.coffeeshopamsterdam.
com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B
LION OF JUDAH (BUSHMAN)
Beware! If you cant relate to the Rastafarian way of life,
you may not enjoy this coffeeshop. If, however, youd like
to embrace your inner Marley, then by all means pay a visit
to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and black history dcor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it appears) serving
you behind the bar will certainly help you to get closer to
Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised products
on offer here, mon.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 47, tel.
(+31) 206 24 27 23. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
Coffeeshops
MAGIC
This charming North African-style coffeeshop boasts
computers with internet access and a pool table, along
with other games, as well as large comfortable seating areas. The Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if
you decide to spark up, particularly after the scenic walk to
get to here. Far away from the main tourist areas you may
find that this place is more appropriate when not alone.
QA-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96. Open
10:00 - 01:00.
NOON
Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make
this an ideal coffeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals,
chat with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one
of its large tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV
and even a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as
the usual smoking paraphernalia. Its a good stop before a
night of partying on Leidseplein.QF-8, Zieseniskade 22,
tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22.
OLD CHURCH
This coffeeshop is surprisingly hard to find given its position in the centre of Amsterdam, but the giant neon signs
on the facade will certainly help. Slightly removed from
the main canals and touristy streets, it still provides convenient access to the Red Light District. Its outdoor terraces
are a pleasure to experience in the summer, but the odd
rustic/Indian theme and the ordinary menus mean that
the highlight of this coffeeshop is its outdoor terrace, and
thats about it.QB-2, Oudekerksplein 54, tel. (+31) 204
20 12 64. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
PARADOX
Amsterdam used to boast over 1,000 coffeeshops, but
these days only a quarter of these remain, including
Paradox in the heart of the Jordaan, which has served
as a haven for local smokers since 1991. Most tourists
never set foot in this quiet place, even though its more
than worth a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated by
promising young graffiti artists and the best works will
make you feel like youre hallucinating even when youre
not stoned.QD-7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206
23 56 39, www.paradoxcoffeeshop.com. Open 10:00
- 20:00. JX
RESIN
Fairly spacious with a particularly original and green
interior, this coffeeshop may provide a some pleasant respite during a visit to Amsterdam. Reflecting the
theme of the famous Red Light District, a keen eye may
be able to discern sex swings, but dont worry. Other
seating is available in the form of sofa benches lining the
wall. There are TV screens to catch your gaze and music
with an electronic edge drones on in the background.
The staff here arent particularly friendly, but then again
thats fairly typical of Amsterdam coffeeshops where the
stoned customer is rarely king.QA-1, Hekelveld 7, tel.
(+31) 204 22 98 38.
SOLO
With one of the walls entirely covered in posters, your
eyes may wander while having a toke here, as well as your
ears thanks to the chilled music. Best of all, it provides
free marshmallows in case you feel light-headed (a common side effect of the herb - well if its good anyway),
a little peckish or indeed, if you just fancy one.QB-2,
Korte Koningsstraat 2, tel. (+31) 204 20 04 28, www.
soloamsterdam.nl. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
SUPER SKUNK
The classic Indica-dominant Skunk #1 that changed the face
of cannabis culture across the world continues to amaze
weed-lovers over a quarter of a century after the release of
its powerful ganja. In our opinion Super Skunk also serves
the best strawberry haze in Amsterdam. Order up front and
then move on to the comfy couches and Arabic style puffs
in the back where you can contemplate the controversial
portraits of weed smoking Muslim women. In liberal Amsterdam anything goes, but dont tell ISIS!QF-8, Prinsen
gracht 480, tel. (+31) 206 38 41 08. JAXSW
SMART & HEAD SHOPS

AMSTERDAM SEED CENTER
Why buy untested and unproven weed when you can just
buy seeds that have already been awarded the prestigious
Cannabis Cup? If you live in Holland or another European
country where its legal to import cannabis seeds you can
ask the knowledgeable staff here everything there is to
know about cultivating this amazing plant. Unfortunately,
US residents arent allowed to bring any seeds home. The
shop also sells books about growing cannabis and t-shirts
made from hemp. Seeds can be ordered online and sent to
your home country, but due to legal issues most countries
outside the EU, including the USA, are excluded from this service.QA-2, Gravenstraat 12, tel. (+31) 207 37 00 60, www.
amsterdamseedcenter.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue,
Wed 10:00 - 19:00. Bag of 3 seeds 20 - 30. JA
You can get it in liquid form too!
Autumn 2015
33
Sightseeing
This city of canals has much more to offer beyond debauchery and carousing opportunities. Museums like the
Van Gogh and Rijksmuseum are world class and worth their
elevated admission fees and long queues, but even a casual
stroll through the city will afford any visitor more pictureperfect vistas than most cities could ever dream of.
ESSENTIAL AMSTERDAM
RIJKSMUSEUM
This colossal building occupies nearly an entire city block
and is finally open to the public again after years of renovations. View ancient weapons, gold and silver artefacts
and of course an incredible collection of the nations best
old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and Steen.
Some of the museums most famous paintings are also
described in detail in laminated information cards, so you
can take your time and discover interesting facts about
each of these canvases. Queues can be long at peek times,
mostly due to security checks, so plan accordingly.QF9,
Museumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1, tel. (+31) 206 74 70
47, www.rijksmuseum.com. Open 09:00-17:00. Admis
sion: adults 17.50, under 18 free.
THE OLD CHURCH (DE OUDE KERK)
Although no one knows for certain, its believed that
Amsterdams oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was
erected at the end of the 13th or possibly the beginning of
the 14th century. The important edifice wasnt only used
for religious purposes and often served as a safe for precious documents, a treasury and also a homeless shelter.
It was also the place where couples had to register their
intentions to marry as Rembrandt and his bride Saskia did
in 1638. Shes buried on the far end of the building opposite the entrance. The historic monument and its wooden
ceiling were on the verge of collapse in the 20th century
and it was finally closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In
1979 it was again opened to the public and is now one of
the citys most visited attractions.QB1, Oudekerksplein
23, tel. (+31) 206 25 82 84, www.oudekerk.nl. Open
10:00-18:00, Sun 13:00-17:30. Admission: adults 7.50,
children 12 and under free.
THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM
This historic house was bought by one of the Netherlands
most illustrious native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum
of 13,000 guilders at a time when a day labourer was content to make 300 guilders in a year. Unfortunately, scandal and disgrace made him unpopular and work became
scarce. He was unable to cover the loan and went bankrupt
in 1656. An audio guide will take you through the house,
which is reconstructed to look exactly as it did when Rembrandt was at the peak of his career. View the foyer where
he exhibited his work, his living quarters, the attic where
his apprentices worked, his curiosity room and of course
his studio.QG/H5, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 20
04 00, www.rembrandthuis.nl. Open 10:00-18:00. Ad
mission: adults 12.50, children 6 - 17 years 4, children
5 and under free. A
VAN GOGH MUSEUM

Very few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this
incredible museum. Its vast collection includes roughly
200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise
most of the works produced by the troubled artist in his
short 10-year career. After dabbling in religious vocations
and art selling, he finally embarked on his true calling in
1880, which is where the museums permanent exhibit begins. Those familiar with only his later works will no doubt
be surprised to see the dark greys, browns and blues used
in Van Goghs earliest still lifes of cabbages and clogs, not
to mention some of the subject matter such as a smoking
skeleton. The vibrant paintings for which he is now so renowned only appeared later during his time in Paris when
he discovered colour. Although the museum is indeed a
shrine to all things Van Gogh, it also displays a varied collection of works by world-famous artists from early mentors like Anton Mauve and Jules Dupr to such icons of
Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Gauguin, Renoir,
Czanne and Toulouse-Lautrec from which he drew inspiration. QF10, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel. (+31) 205 70 52
00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Open 09:00-18:00, Fri
09:00-22:00. Admission: adults 17, children 17 and un
der free. AUKW
AMSTERDAM ATTRACTIONS
EROTIC MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
If youre already exploring Europes number one Red
Light district then you might as well visit this interesting
museum thats not nearly as tacky as it seems. Inside you
can view ancient Chinese artefacts depicting sex acts,
lusty gods and goddesses getting busy on Greek pottery
and horny lovers on old Japanese silk paintings. Youll no
doubt also be as shocked as we were to encounter Le
Pulsoconn - a mechanical vibrator from the 1880s that
no one in their right mind would want to use anywhere
near their genitals. Erotic cartoons of Snow White getting
to know her dwarfs intimately and old pornography are
also on offer.QB1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 54, www.
erotisch-museum.nl. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:0002:00. Admission: 7.
Interior of the Old Church
Sightseeing
MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM
Back in 1777 when Marie Tussaud created her first wax
figure of Voltaire, very few would have guessed that major cities around the globe would have their own museums named after the venerable woman. In 1836 at the
tender age of 74, she opened her first location in London
proving that people have always been fascinated with
celebrities and that the present obsession with Hollywood stars and pop musicians isnt just a fad. Queues at
the Amsterdam Tussauds can be a bit long at lunchtime,
but thats because everyone is photographed before taking the lift upstairs where youll be entertained by a light
and sound show dedicated to the Golden Age of the city
in the 17th century. This is followed by a maze of rooms
featuring life size wax figures of your favourite heads
of state, actors, rock gods, artists and footballers. Have
your photo taken with the Dalai Lama, Gandhi, Madonna,
Pablo Picasso or Winston Churchill. Youll no doubt also
be blown away by what a tiny pip-squeak Lenin was or
that Ronaldinhos teeth really are that big!QA2, Dam 20,
tel. (+31) 205 22 10 10, www.madametussauds.com.
Open 10:00-18:30. Admission: adults 19 - 22, children
5 - 15 years 14 - 18, children 4 and under free. Last
admission at 17:30. AU
RED LIGHT SECRETS
Red Light Secrets is the latest attraction in Amsterdams
Red Light district and it has correspondingly long opening hours for late night window shoppers. In short, its essentially a museum dedicated to that oldest of professions
- prostitution - and is supposedly the only one of its kind
on the planet. A visit begins with a six-minute movie, with
a simple, yet intriguing theme, namely 24 hours in the Red
Light district. The next hour or so can be spent checking
out typical rooms where the trade was plied as well as
special S&M tools and lots of other interesting items and
information. The undisputed highlight of the exhibition is
the moment when youre allowed to sit behind one of the
red-lit windows to see how outsiders look at you. Unfortunately, no souvenir shop is available, so youll have to find
a sexy gift at one of the shops in the area.QB2, Oudezijds
Achterburgwal 60H, www.redlightsecrets.com. Open
12:00-24:00. Admission: 7.50. JN
WORLD OF AJAX TOURS (AMSTERDAM ARENA)
This is the next best thing to seeing an actual Ajax
match. Even if youre not a fan, its still a brilliant feeling
to set foot in the ArenA, even when its empty. At full
capacity, 53,052 supporters sing, scream and yell from
their brightly coloured seats. About an hour later youre
back where you started, and the tour predictably ends
at the club shop where you can express your newly acquired love for Ajax by purchasing lots of red and white
souvenirs.QU-1, ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11
13 36. Open 11:00 - 16:30 (except on event days). Ad
mission: adults 14.50, children 5 - 12 years 9.50.
Take metro line 54 from the Central Station to the
Amsterdam Bijlmer Arena stop and then follow signs
to Main Entrance E.
Meet the Dalai Lama and Gandhi at Madame Toussauds
BREWERY & DISTILLERY TOURS

BROUWERIJ DE PRAEL
This small microbrewery was originally supposed to be
called De Parel (the Pearl), but it turned out that someone
already had the rights to that name so they just changed
a couple of letters around and De Prael was born. You can
take a tour of the small premises in the Red Light district
and learn about the brewing process followed by a beer in
its new tasting room which has a view of all the brewing
action. The owners also contribute to society by employing people who have a tough time finding work elsewhere
and you can see them hard at work in the cellar where one
fills the bottles, another puts the cap on and a third person
attaches the labels. The brewery makes about eight different beers and you can buy all kinds of De Prael merchandise in its shop.QB1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 30, tel.
(+31) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 09:00-17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
BROUWERIJ T IJ
If youre feeling a little parched on a Friday, Saturday or
Sunday afternoon, then take a tram to the Plantage for a
microbrewery tour, a few beers and some snacks in the
shadow of one of the citys few remaining windmills.
As the afternoon wears on, the voices of Dutch speakers gradually get drowned out by the din of tourists and
foreign beer enthusiasts who have come to this iconic
building next to the historic De Gooyer windmill to take
advantage of the brew tour thats held here in English
every Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 15:30 (16:00 in
Dutch). Tickets, which are actually plastic tokens good
for a tour and a beer, cost 4.50, but bear in mind that
its best to get here early to sample at least one brew
before you learn about how the amber nectar is made.
What could be more Amsterdam than sipping a locally
produced beer with a sausage and cheese plate next
to a giant windmill only a short tram ride from touristy
Leidseplein? Take tram No.10 toward Azartplein from
Leidseplein, get off at the Hoogte Kadijk stop and turn
right.QK5, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 206 22 83 25, www.
brouwerijhetij.nl. Open 14:00-20:00.
Autumn 2015
35
Sightseeing
HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
Although this tasty brew, which is distributed in over 170
countries around the globe isnt produced on the premises, you can take a tour and learn about the companys
evolution from its founding in 1864 in Amsterdam to its
current status as a multinational brand. Youll reach the
climax of the tour where you can enjoy two cold beers
with dozens of other Heineken fans. Exit the experience
via the Heineken shop where you can get pretty much
anything with the Heineken logo on it. QG-9, Stadhoud
erskade 78, tel. (+31) 205 23 92 22, www.heineken.com/
experience. Open 11:00 - 19:30 (last tour at 17:30). Ad
mission: 16 - 18, children 12.50, under 12 free. AU
HOUSE OF BOLS EXPERIENCE
Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the House of Bols is one
the worlds oldest spirits makers, not to mention one of
the oldest firms on record. Its renowned jenever recipe
dates back to as early as 1664 and was introduced to the
British roughly 25 years later where it was modified to English tastes and produced locally as gin. The award-winning
Genever Experience showcases the roughly 40 liqueurs it
sells in 110 countries around the world as well as the wide
varieties of jenevers it produces.QF-10, Paulus Potter
straat 14, tel. (+31) 205 70 85 75, www.houseofbols.nl.
Open 12:00 - 17:30, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00.
Admission: 14.50. A
BUILDINGS
THE MINT TOWER (MUNTTOREN)
The Mint Tower is one of the citys most visible landmarks
and anyone who has visited the Flower Market or done
some shopping on the Kalverstraat has definitely noticed
this unique bell tower with a clock on each of its four sides.
Originally a gate called the Regulierspoort that was part
of Amsterdams fortified city wall, it was destroyed during a fire in 1618, but rebuilt two years later in Amsterdam
Renaissance style by the eminent Dutch Golden Age architect Hendrick de Keyser, who also built the Westerkerk
and Zuiderkerk among other famous edifices scattered
about the city. It gained its name in the 17th century when
the French occupied parts of the Netherlands forcing the
Dutch to move their coin minting operations to this location.QB3, Muntplein.
Copper vats at the Heineken Experience
TUSCHINSKI THEATRE
This ornate building, which incorporates Art Nouveau, Art
Deco and Amsterdam School architecture, was created
by Abraham Tuschinski (1886 - 1942), a Polish Jew who
settled in the Netherlands in the early 1900s instead of immigrating to the United States, which was his original plan.
He became a successful cinema operator in Rotterdam,
before turning his attention to a forlorn part of Amsterdam where he erected his dream theatre. Unfortunately,
Tuschinski became of a victim of the Holocaust and died at
Auschwitz in 1942, but the incredible building he erected
is still one of Amsterdams most popular cinemas.QG6,
Reguliersbreestraat 26 - 28, tel. (+31) 90 02 35 72 84,
www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/tuschinski.
CANAL TOURS
AMSTERDAM CANAL CRUISES
This company has been giving tours of the Amsterdam canals for over 40 years. Its six boats depart from
the landing opposite the Heineken Experience..QG8,
Stadhouderskade 550, tel. (+31) 206 26 56 36, www.
amsterdamcanalcruises.nl.
CANAL BUS
Canal bus offers a huge network of comfortable canal
boats that take passengers on three different routes with
more than 20 stops. The boats pass by the citys main
attractions and museums, which is why you can buy a
day-pass or a 48-hour ticket so you can hop on and off
and see all of the sights that interest you. Stops include
the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum as well as
the Anne Frank House and the Hermitage among other
destinations. Canal bus also offers night cruises and theme
cruises with dinner, candlelight and cocktails.QE5, Stad
houderskade (opposite Rijksmuseum, tel. (+31) 202 17
05 00, www.canal.nl. A
GRAY LINE
Make sure youre at the right landing as the multinational
Gray Line has three different departure points.QA1,
Damrak Pier 5, tel. (+31) 205 35 33 08, www.grayline.
com. Open 10:00-20:00. Tickets: 13 - 22. TJA
CHURCHES
NOORDERKERK
As the population of the new Jordaan neighbourhood
began to explode in the 17th century, the city decided to
build a new church for its lower class protestant residents.
Hendrick de Keyser, the illustrious designer of the nearby
Westerkerk, was tasked to create the building and it was
finally completed in1623 in all its odd octagonal glory. Inside the black gravestones that pave the floor have been
polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic from its devoted parishioners. The massive pipe organ is also a sight
to see.QE4, Noordermarkt 48, tel. (+31) 206 26 64 36,
www.noorderkerk.org. Open Mon 10:30-12:30, Sat
11:00-13:00, Sun 13:30-17:30. Closed Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri.
Sightseeing
ST. FRANCIS XAVIER CHURCH (DE KRIJTBERG)
This Jesuit church near the Flower Market began its existence in the 17th century as a clandestine house of worship hidden behind the faade of a typical canal house.
Catholics were persecuted at the time and had to gather
in secret so it was given the code name of de Krijtberg
or Chalk Mountain, because the owner of the house
was a merchant who had dealings with England known
throughout Holland by its white chalk cliffs of Dover. The
current neo-Gothic structure was erected between 1880
and 1883 replacing the previous medieval building, which
explains why it is so incredibly narrow. It is perhaps best
known for its impressive collection of stained glass. The
more vibrant panes were added in 1930, while the more
faded examples are original.QF6, Singel 448, tel. (+31)
206 23 19 23, www.krijtberg.nl. Open 13:00-17:00.
Closed Mon, Fri.
THE PARROT: CHURCH OF STS. PETER AND
PAUL (DE PAPEGAAI)
In stark contrast to the non-stop racket heard from shoppers outside on the tireless Kalverstraat, this well-hidden
church is a small oasis of peace and quiet. Its clandestine
appearance is intentional as it was one of several underground Catholic churches that had to conceal their existence from Protestant persecution, hence its code name
the Parrot. It is typically narrow, like most Amsterdam
buildings, which is the reason for the extensive seating
galleries overlooking the main hall from above. Although
its interior isnt as grand as other Catholic churches in the
area, its a quiet escape from the hordes of people stuffing their faces at McDonalds across the street. Just look
for the tile mosaic to find the entrance.QA3, Kalverstraat
58, tel. (+31) 206 23 18 89, www.nicolaas-parochie.nl.
Open 10:00-16:00, Sun 09:45-13:30.
WESTERKERK
One of the symbols of Amsterdam, the Westerkerk was
consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch Reformed church and it still
tends to its Protestant flock to this day. Its Dutch Renaissance style is unmistakable and its massive tower embellished with the crown of Austrian Emperor Maximilian soars
to a height of 85m above the city. The impoverished painter
Rembrandt was buried here in 1669, but no one is quite sure
exactly where, yet a plaque marks the approximate spot not
far from his son Titus grave. Anyone familiar with the story
of Anne Frank also knows that she often heard the bells
from the church in her hidden annex only a short distance
away. The tower bell is the largest in the Netherlands and
weighs in at an impressive 7,500kg. Although the church is
also used as a concert hall, its closed to visitors during the
winter months. The Westermarkt square outside is a popular meeting place where you can relax on benches that look
like lounge chairs, eat some raw herring from one of the
food stalls or take a look at its monuments - a statue of Anne
Frank and three triangular pink granite slabs dedicated to
persecuted gays near and far.QE5, Prinsengracht 281,
www.westerkerk.nl. Open April - October 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Tower admission: 6 - 8.
The soaring bell tower of the Westerkerk
JEWISH AMSTERDAM
JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM (JOODS HISTORISCH MUSEUM)
This extensive museum dedicated to Amsterdam Jewish
life opened in 1987 and is spread out over what used to
be four different synagogues. Begin your journey in the
oldest building erected in 1671, which was abandoned
for nearly 30 years after WWII until it was finally restored
to its former glory. This section of the museum chronicles
the earliest years of Jewish settlement in Amsterdam and
you can view an impressive array of religious items, holy
texts and ancient books as well as a giant silver menorah
nearly 2m tall! On the second floor, which was originally
used by the female congregation, you can view paintings by famous Jewish artists such as Josef Israels. The attempted destruction of Jewish life during the Holocaust is
also featured here with displays of objects such as money
boxes, which were left by Jews to their gentile neighbours
for safekeeping. The ticket price includes admission to the
other three nearby Jewish institutions.QH6, Nieuwe
Amstelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.jhm.nl.
Open 11:00-17:00. Admission: adults 12, children 13 17 6, children 6 - 12 3, under 6 free. HAUKW
PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE
Most European capitals were hardly an ideal place for
Jews to call home in medieval times, but no city was more
tolerant of this ethnic group than Amsterdam in the 17thcentury. As the city prospered, its population grew by
leaps and bounds and among its many new arrivals were
Jews from around the continent looking for a better life.
They completed work on this synagogue in 1675 and since
then it has served as a centre for Jewish life in Amsterdam
housing also offices, archives, ritual baths and a rabbinate.
The synagogue was completely restored in 2011 and now
its treasure rooms which house unique ceremonial objects
are open to the public as well as Ets Haim, the oldest functioning Jewish library in the world dating to 1616. The ticket price includes admission to the Jewish Historical Museum nearby.QH5, Mr. Visserplein 3, tel. (+31) 205 31 03
10, www.portugesesynagoge.nl. Open 10:00-17:00, Fri
10:00-16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: adults 12, children
13 - 17 6, children 6 - 12 3, under 6 free. HAU
Autumn 2015
37
Sightseeing
AMSTERDAM MUSEUM
Although there are many cities in Europe and the Netherlands with histories stretching much farther into the past,
Amsterdams story is unique and unusual and worth discovering at this fascinating and eclectic museum. Follow
the development of this powerful port through medieval
artefacts and art from ancient shoes dating back to the 14th
century and the oldest known map of the city. You can also
learn about the urban development of the city from its bold
plans to dig canals to 20th-century modernisation projects
as well as lots of fun exhibits that highlight popular culture
like films about the Ajax football club and a model of Hollands (and perhaps the worlds) first gay and lesbian bar, t
Mandje.QE-5, Prinsengracht 116, tel. (+31) 204 21 00 95,
www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission: adults 4, children free.
MUSEUMS
ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM
The archaeological museum of the University of Amsterdam has an excellent collection of rare artefacts from the
ancient world of the Near East and the Mediterranean region from 4000 BC to 500 AD. Objects from Egypt include
wooden sarcophagi, Coptic art, funerary statues and pottery, not to mention a room dedicated to mummies and
the embalming process. Upstairs youll find exhibits dedicated to ancient Greece, Persia and Mesopotamia as well
as the Romans and Etruscans. QA-3, Oude Turfmarkt 127,
tel. (+31) 205 25 25 56, www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl.
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: adults 6.50, children 4 - 16 3.25, children
3 and under free. A
Scale model of the citys canals at Het Grachtenhuis
AMSTERDAM TULIP MUSEUM

Walk into this flower and gift shop near the Anne Frank
House and learn about the fascinating history of the tulip from its humble origins along the Silk Road of Central
Asia to its current status as a somewhat common, massproduced flower that is still a cornerstone of the Dutch
economy and a symbol of national identity for the people of the Netherlands. Discover how the word tulip was
derived from a simple misunderstanding and how the
plant was smuggled to Europe from the Turkish sultans
royal court in 1555. Learn how tulips made their journey
to the Netherlands in 1598 where they were cultivated
and eventually fetched prices on par with Amsterdam
canal houses before the bubble burst ruining many a
flower merchant. The evolution of modern tulip farming
is also on display. Although the museum isnt very big
and is essentially a small exhibit in a shop cellar, it isnt
expensive and its owner, who also sells bulbs upstairs, is
passionate about the tulip and provides a much-needed
history of one of the nations most profitable commodities.QE5, Prinsengracht 116, tel. (+31) 204 21 00 95,
www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com. Open 10:00 18:00. Admission: adults 4, children free.
ANNE FRANK HOUSE (ANNE FRANK HUIS)
There are very few people who arent acquainted with
the tragic story of Anne Frank a brave girl who dreamed
of becoming an author while in hiding from Nazi persecution. The diary of her time spent in the secret annex
was published in 1947 and later translated in over 65
languages. The popularity of her work is reflected in the
huge queues outside this museum that has been teaching
Amsterdams visitors about the Holocaust, the story of the
Frank family and their desperate struggle to survive and
the evils of anti-Semitism and racism since 1960. Inside
youll walk through the warehouse where workers attended to their business every day completely unaware that
several people were hiding upstairs.QE-5, Prinsengracht
263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www.annefrank.org.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults
9, children 10 - 17 years 4.50, children nine and under
free. AKW
Sightseeing
COSTER DIAMONDS
Coster Diamonds is one of the oldest diamond factories in
the world and its professional craftsmen have been cutting
and polishing expensive jewels since Moses Coster opened
his first shop on Waterlooplein in 1840. Today you can take a
free tour of the factory, which moved to its current location
in three mansions in the Museum district in 1970. You can
learn nearly everything about diamonds here in a variety
of languages and discover helpful tips about how the four
Cs (carat, colour, clarity and cut) influence the price of each
gem. You can also watch men practicing their trade, learn
how to spot fake diamonds and view replicas of famous
gems such as the Koh-I-Noor which was re-cut by Coster at
the request of Queen Victoria. After a brief tour youll be led
upstairs to a diamond showroom where the owners hope
youll be tempted to buy a diamond of your own. At the end
of a labyrinth of more shops youll reach the Amsterdam Diamond Museum which charges admission, but you can also
just exit the building if youve had enough sparkling carbon
for one day.QF10, Paulus Potterstraat 2 - 6, tel. (+31) 203
05 55 55, www.costerdiamonds.com. Open 09:00-17:00.
Admission: free.
DIAMANT MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
Start your tour of the museum with a film that illustrates
how diamonds are formed and the science behind the
process, how the first diamonds were discovered on the
banks of Indian rivers thousands of years ago and how
Europeans began to covet them and create some of the
largest mining operations in the world. Move on to the
exhibits that describe the polishing and cutting process,
displays of replicas of famous jewels and explanations of
the illegal trade in blood diamonds. You can also take a
digital photo of yourself wearing a diamond encrusted
crown which you can e-mail to friends and finish with the
museums most prized possession - the Coster Skull, which
is an odd and truly bizarre gorilla skull covered in 17,000
small diamonds. A museum shop and caf are also available.QF10, Paulus Potterstraat 8, tel. (+31) 203 05 53
00, www.diamantmuseumamsterdam.nl. Open 09:0017:00. Admission: adults 7.50, children 13 - 18 years 5,
children 12 and under free. A
HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM
Russias most illustrious museum has a subsidiary in Amsterdam, which is housed in a beautiful 17th classical-style
building called the Amstelhof that was once a home for
poverty-stricken elderly women. The Hermitage is currently hosting an exhibition entitled Alexander, Napoleon &
Josphine, a Story of Friendship, War and Art from the Hermitage that will be on display until November 8, 2015. Napoleons death mask will also be on display.QH-6, Amstel 51,
tel. (+31) 205 30 74 88, www.hermitage.nl. Open 10:00
- 17:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and under
free. AU
FOAM: PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM AMSTERDAM

(FOTOGRAPHIEMUSEUM AMSTERDAM)
This classic Amsterdam canal house on the Keizersgracht
is home to the FOAM museum, which is actually more of
photography exhibition hall for both famous names and
newcomers. Although modernised and upgraded to serve
its purpose of displaying cutting edge photographs, many
of the buildings original elements, like the marble floors,
have been preserved for posterity. Exhibitions change
quite frequently so check its website for the latest information. A great shop selling truly interesting photography books and FOAMs own magazine is also available
on the ground floor.QG7, Keizersgracht 609, tel. (+31)
205 51 65 00, www.foam.org. Open 10:00-18:00, Thu,
Fri 10:00-21:00. Admission: adults 8.75, students 6,
children under 12 free. W
HET GRACHTENHUIS
This museum is dedicated to the evolution of Amsterdams
famous canal belt. Although the city offers other Golden
Age museums that display renovated 17th-century interiors, Het Grachtenhuis focuses on the development
of the city during its most prosperous era with a variety
of modern multimedia experiences and films on the top
floors of the building, while still showing off its antique
grandeur of marble foyers, period furniture and paintings
by illustrious Dutch artists. Watch the Beatles taking a tour
of the city, peer into a dollhouse or just admire the dcor
of a protected monument designed by one of the Netherlands best ever architects.QF7, Herengracht 386, www.
hetgrachtenhuis.nl. Open 10:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Ad
mission: adults 12, children 6 - 18 years 6 (tickets are
cheaper if bought online). A
Autumn 2015
39
Sightseeing
MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES (TASSEN MUSEUM HENDRIKJE)
What began as Hendrikje Ivos obsession with purses blossomed into the worlds largest collection of handbags and
purses with over 4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years. Located in a prestigious 17th-century home that once belonged
to the then mayor of Amsterdam, the museum begins on
the top floor where you can view satchels, boxes and letter cases from the 16th - 19th centuries made from every
material imaginable. 20th-century exhibits include funky
Art Deco purses as well as bags made from exotic animals,
even armadillos. A large collection of famous designer
bags is also on display including labels like Louis Vuitton
and Dior. Naturally, no purse museum would be complete
without a shop where you can buy bags to remember
your visit. A caf with a Dutch Golden Age interior is also
available and the entire building is wheelchair accessible.
QH7, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24 64 52, www.
museumofbagsandpurses.com. Open 10:00-17:00. Ad
mission: adults 9,50, children under 12 free. AK
MUSEUM OF THE TROPICS (TROPENMUSEUM)
Housed in a monumental building that is also home to the
Royal Tropical Institute, this museum is a must for students
of anthropology and ethnography and anyone who appreciates non-Western cultures. Unlike many museums
that are simply a catalogue of artefacts from ancient times
and extinct civilisations, the Tropics Museum not only offers examples of antique art, but also household items and
objects used in the daily lives of vibrant, living cultures
throughout the tropical regions of the world from Indian
Bollywood posters to African ads for hair salons. A cafeteria serving food and drink from the regions covered in the
museum including South East Asian beer like Singha and
Chang is also available as well as a museum shop selling
interesting gifts.QP2, Linnaeusstraat 2, tel. (+31) 205 68
82 00, www.tropenmuseum.nl. Open 10:00-17:00. Ad
mission: adults 9, children 6 - 17 years 5, children 5
and under free. AK
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
(NEDERLANDS SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM AMSTERDAM)
In the 17th century the Netherlands was one of the
wealthiest and most important nations in the world
and this was in large part due to its maritime prowess.
No other country in the world had as many ships sailing
the seas of the globe as Holland. After thorough renovations, the Maritime Museum once again demonstrates
how the sea has defined Dutch culture. Stimulating, interactive exhibits bring 500 years of maritime history to
life. The significance of this industry in the modern age
is also explained in a clear and concise manner. Children will also love the museum, especially the replica of
the famous VOC (Dutch East India Company) ship.QI4,
Kattenburgerplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 23 22 22, fax (+31)
205 23 22 13, info@hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl, www.
hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open 09:00-17:00. Admis
sion: 15, children 5 and over 7.50. TJAL
ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM (KONINKLIJK

PALEIS AMSTERDAM)
Its hard to miss the Royal Palace on Dam Square. When the
building was first opened to the public as the Town Hall in
1655, its lavish interior decorated with paintings by Ferdinand Bol and Rembrandt was considered to be the eighth
wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made it his personal
residence in 1808 when he briefly served as the King of Holland, but it later became the possession of the House of Orange. After meandering through a few dull corridors youll
finally walk upstairs to the main hall where your jaw is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so much polished
marble in one place, not to mention six giant crystal chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered in frescos
high above the inlaid maps and nautical and astronomical
charts in the floor. The audio guide, which is included in the
price, is essential as none of the rooms have explanations in
any language. A short movie with English subtitles is available before you take the tour.QA2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20
40 60, www.paleisamsterdam.nl. Open 10:00-17:00. Ad
mission: adults 10, children under 18 free.
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO
Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to find this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers
look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives
will change in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. An exhibition
entitled World of Shapes allows you to create new shapes
from triangles and squares and children can tower above
their parents in the Ames room. You can also bring your
own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or purchase food at
the museum. A good museum shop is also available where
you can buy science experiments and other great souvenirs for kids.QH4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33,
info@e-NEMO.nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00-17:30.
Admission: 15, children under four free. AK
Children love to learn at Science Center NEMO
DigiDaan
Sightseeing
STEDELIJK MUSEUM
The Netherlands most important museum for modern
and contemporary art was in a coma for an unexpected
eight years, but is now open to the public. The entrance
has moved from the street to the park side, which means
that the cultural living room of Amsterdam now has its
own chill-out and meeting area outside. The interior of the
old and new buildings have been completely integrated,
so youll hardly notice where the 100-year-old edifice ends
and the modern one begins.QF10, Museumplein 10,
tel. (+31) 205 73 29 11, www.stedelijk.nl. Open 10:0018:00, Thu 10:00-22:00. Admission: adults 15 - 20, 17
and under free. AK
VAN LOON MUSEUM (MUSEUM VAN LOON)
This magnificent building owned by the Van Loon family
trust has a rich and storied history and is one of the few remaining examples of authentic Dutch golden age homes
in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt apprentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671
but passed on to different owners over the centuries until
it was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon family whose
most illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the
Dutch East India Company. View 17th-century portraits,
period furniture, 18th-century Dutch porcelain, spectacular wall murals and a spacious manicured garden all in the
centre of Amsterdam. QG7, Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31)
206 24 52 55, www.museumvanloon.nl. Open 10:0017:00. Admission: adults 9, children 5, children under
6 free. TJABW
PARKS & GARDENS

HORTUS BOTANICAL GARDENS (HORTUS BOTANICUS AMSTERDAM)
Located in the quiet neighbourhood of the Plantage, the
Hortus Botanical Garden has been fascinating naturalists,
botanists and fans of beauty for over 300 years making it
one of the oldest such gardens in the world. Although only
a little over one hectare in size, Hortus boasts over 4,000
species of plants from around the globe throughout its
gardens and greenhouses, nearly all of which are open to
the public. It specialises in cycads, or palm trees, the oldest
of which was brought to the Netherlands on a V.O.C. ship
centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since 1856.
You can wander around the grounds and view beautiful
flowers, carnivorous florae, a rare Australian pine thought
extinct until 1994 and even a redwood tree, which, if allowed to grow on its own, might just change the citys
skyline in a few generations. You can also walk through
the tropical and desert greenhouses, but dont miss the
butterfly house. You can also buy plants at its shop or have
lunch at its caf that hosts live jazz on Sundays in summer.
QH5, Plantage Middenlaan 2a, tel. (+31) 206 25 90 21,
www.dehortus.nl. Open 10:00-17:00. Admission: adults
8.50, children 5 - 14 years 4.50, children 4 and under
free. HEK
Autumn 2015
41
Sightseeing
WERTHEIM PARK
This small patch of green opposite the Hortus Botanical
Gardens offers plenty of benches and views of the nearby
canal that marks one of its boundaries. One shady corner
is also the unlikely resting place for the ashes of Dutch
victims of the Holocaust covered by blue glass, which is
deliberately fractured to represent the symbolic cracks in
the peaceful sky that was forced to watch the atrocities
committed on the ground below. You cant miss the park,
as it is guarded by two large sphinxes at the gate.QI5,
Between Nieuwe Herengracht, Plantage Parklaan &
Plantage Middenlaan. Open 07:00-21:00.
WESTERPARK
If you keep following the popular Haarlemmerdijk shopping street in the Jordaan past the Haarlemmerplein youll
eventually run into Westerpark, which is flanked by a canal
on one side and train tracks and housing estates on the
other. On one end youll find a water feature, a childrens
playground and lots of walking and bike paths, while the
far side is a vast open space popular with picnickers and
kids honing their football skills. Just beyond the park is the
Westergafabriek, a former industrial zone that has been
reclaimed by cafs, clubs and galleries.QC4, Between
Haarlemmerweg and Zaanstraat.
PLACES OF INTEREST
ARTIS ROYAL ZOO
Founded in 1838, the Artis Royal Zoo is the oldest zoo in
the Netherlands and home to roughly 700 species of fauna
and 200 species of flora. The sprawling park not only offers
a huge collection of exotic animals from near and far, but
also an impressive aquarium as well as a zoology museum.
Many of the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo live outdoors so you can see camels lounging in the sand or Japanese macaques jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants,
buffalo and giraffes in their enclosures or head over to the
top-notch reptile house to see pythons, giant tortoises and
crocodiles or all manner of creepy-crawlies in the Insect
House. You can also view nocturnal creatures in the Jungle
by Night exhibit, chimpanzees in the monkey house and
strange forms of life from the planets oceans in the aquarium.QI5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. (+31) 90 02 78 47
96, www.artis.nl. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission: adults
18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50. AK
Colourfully painted wooden shutters on the Brouwersgracht
BREWERS CANAL (BROUWERSGRACHT)

Although Amsterdam has no shortage of picturesque canals, this beautiful waterway is one of the citys prettiest
and in our opinion outshines other scenic stretches such
as the Golden Bend. The Brewers Canal began its existence in the 17th century but earned its name hundreds
of years later when many beer brewers chose to set up
shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the centre, the
atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the tiny
little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters
and the canal is covered in small bridges.QF8, Between
the Singel and Lijnbaansgracht.
DAPPERSTRAAT MARKET (DAPPERMARKT)
This neighbourhood market in Amsterdam East has been
bringing a diverse community together since 1910. One
of the oldest markets in the city, the Dappermarkt offers
hundreds of street stalls run by a wide variety of merchants speaking languages from around the globe, from
Morocco and Turkey to Suriname. Although not exactly
the place to find that ideal kitschy souvenir, this authentic
marketplace sells all manner of household goods, cheap
clothing, second-hand fashion, fresh produce and local
specialities like smoked fish and traditional herring. It was
also voted the best market in the Netherlands in 2006 and
2007.QK6, Dapperstraat, www.dappermarkt.nl. Open
10:00-16:30. Closed Sun.
Art and animals at the Artis Royal Zoo
DURGERDAM
After about half an hour of cycling through Noord, your
pedalling will be rewarded by the sight of one of the most
beautiful villages in the region. Durgerdam is a tiny hamlet on the shores of the IJsselmeer, where you can view
some traditional wooden houses, a Protestant church dating from 1687 and a landscape of wetlands and polders.
Another attraction is Durgerdams marina, where you can
gaze at luxurious yachts and envy the people entering
the private sailing club. Historically, the village was closely
linked with the former Zuiderzee (now IJsselmeer) and for
centuries the Durgerdammers worked in shipping, fishing
and trade in general. Today, its the quiet and the beauty
of the water that attracts visitors to this lovely little settlement.QN5, Durgerdam..
Sightseeing
EYE FILM INSTITUTE
EYE is the only institute in the Netherlands that collects
and displays film-related ephemera like photographs,
posters, soundtracks, equipment and directors archives.
Its collection spans the entire length of film history from
silent films to the newest digital productions. Every year
the collection expands as more films, Dutch and foreign,
new and old, are added. Called the heart of film, the huge
white spaces covering over 1200m2 provide numerous interactive and educational film projects, while four theatres
- each different in size and theme - bring you the latest
art-house films and old classics. Many people take the free
ferry here for the gorgeous view from its caf and outdoor
terraces. QIJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 00, www.
eyefilm.nl. Open 09:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:15.
TJAULGBKXW
FLOWER MARKET (BLOEMENMARKT)
The Flower Market is a tourist attraction and a functioning
market in one. Although its often called the worlds only
floating flower market, most of the browsing takes place
on dry land as the stalls are located on barges moored on
the Singel and although its quite attractive when walking
past, its actually a bit of an eyesore when viewed from the
other side of the canal. You can buy bulbs and seeds for all
kinds of plants and flowers and the sellers will also send
bulbs to your home address abroad. Locals also buy flowers here so the prices are actually quite reasonable. There
are plenty of cafs and souvenir shops opposite the market.QA/B3, Singel (Between Koningsplein and Munt
plein). Open 09:00-17:30, Sun 11:00-17:30. A
WATERLOOPLEIN
Located in the heart of what used to be Amsterdams thriving Jewish Quarter, this square is now better known for its
flea market where you can search for vintage and secondhand clothes, a wide variety of antiques, old vinyl records
and lots of other hip and retro curiosities in the shadow
of the imposing Moses and Aaron Church next door. The
citys best Jewish attractions like the Portuguese Synagogue and the Jewish Historical Museum are also only a
stones throw away, not to mention the underground Tun
Fun childrens play park.QH6/7, Waterlooplein.
Find the perfect souvenir at the Flower Market
STATUES & MONUMENTS

NATIONAL MONUMENT (NATIONAAL MONUMENT)
Its hard to miss the central monument on Dam Square
thats often occupied by people of all ages and nationalities sunning themselves, reading books or just relaxing. The brainchild of renowned Dutch architect J.J.P.
Oud (1890 - 1963), the National Monument made of white
travertine was unveiled in 1956 as both a memorial to all
Dutch men and women who suffered under the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands and to the nations liberation.
A number of statues and reliefs symbolise the resistance
expressed by all members of society from labourers to
the intelligentsia and the lions on either side represent
the Dutch nation. The giant pillar rises to a height of 22m.
QA2, Dam.
REMBRANDT STATUE
Rembrandt van Rijn (1606 - 1669) is considered to be one
of the greatest painters in Dutch history and King William
III had the honour of unveiling Amsterdams oldest statue
in 1852. But thats not the end of the story. Over the next
decade at least 10 more statues will be erected along the
route that the illustrious painter used to walk from his
house in Amsterdam to to the outskirts of the city where
he searched for inspiration. Each statue will represent a
certain period of his life. A young Rembrandt, opposite the
Amstel Hotel, is the first of these new statues. Statues of
Rembrandt can also be found at molen at Amstel at the
end of Amstelpark and Professor Tulpplein.QB3, Rem
brandtplein.
THE DOCKWORKER (DE DOKWERKER)
The statue of a portly dockworker located next to the
Portuguese Synagogue was unveiled by Queen Juliana of
Netherlands in 1952 as a tribute to the brave population of
Amsterdam that participated in a general strike on February 25, 1941. The strike, which paralysed the city, was organised in response to the anti-Semitic policies of the Nazi
occupation forces that began sending Jews to the concentration camp at Mauthausen. The strike was eventually
quashed by the Germans, but it sent a powerful message
to the Nazis that the Dutch werent ready to give up their
sovereignty, nor their tolerant beliefs.QH6, Jonas Daniel
Meijerplein.
THE LITTLE DARLING (HET LIEVERDJE)
At the centre of the Spui, a small square surrounded by
some excellent beer bars and bookshops, is a stylised brass
statue of a boy with a naughty smile that hints that hes up
to no good. The Little Darling, Dear or Sweetheart is the
Dutch version of Dennis the Menace, Calvin (of Calvin and
Hobbes), Max and Moritz and countless other fictional depictions of mischievous boys popular in all cultures. Erected
on the Square in 1960 with funds provided by a tobacco
company, the statue became a rallying point for the Provos,
a counter-culture movement that protested against pretty
much all of the successes and failures of the 1950s.QSpui.
Autumn 2015
43
Shopping
Amsterdam has it all as far as shopping is concerned from
the big brands to hip little boutiques. A recent survey of
the Best Cities to Shop in Europe, placed Amsterdam in a
resepectable 8th place. For standard international fashion
like H&M and Footlocker take a stroll down the pedestrian Kalverstraat. If you can afford such names as Vuitton, Bulgari and Chanel then drive your Ferrari over to P.C.
Hooftsraat in the Museum Quarter. Antique lovers will find
a whole street lined with shops selling old maps, books,
Delft tiles, furniture and art at Nieuwe Spiegelstraat leading
up to the Rijksmuseum and shoppers who prefer small, yet
trendy boutiques, family-run delicatessens and a generally
fun street devoid of international chains should walk the
length of the Haarlemmerstraat and Haarlemmerdijk. You
can also find all kinds of interesting exotic sauces, spices
and kitchenware in Chinatown near the Nieuwmarkt and
funky interior design elements on Overtoom in West.
ALCOHOL & BEER SHOPS

DE BIERKONING
With roughly 1100 beers from Europe and the States available on the premises, this brew shop is probably the best
stocked of its genre in Amsterdam. It also sells some cider and loads of souvenir beer glasses.QA2, Paleisstraat
125, tel. (+31) 206 25 23 36, www.bierkoning.nl. Open
11:00-19:00, Mon 13:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-18:00, Sun
13:00-18:00. A
GRAPE DISTRICT
This large chain of wine shops usually has something for
everyone.QP2, Linnaeusstraat 106, tel. (+31) 204 63 09
57, oost@grapedistrict.nl, www.grapedistrict.nl. Open
11:00-19:00, Mon 13:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-18:00. Closed
Sun. A
H. P. DE VRENG EN ZONEN
This family business has been distilling natural Dutch spirits since 1710 and you can buy the finished product here
as well as other quality alcohol like single malt scotch and
fine brandies.QA1, Nieuwendijk 75, tel. (+31) 206 24
45 81, www.oudamsterdam.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Sun
12:00-18:00. A
LE CELLIER
This place offers an incredible selection of liqour, whiskey,
wine and other alcoholic beverages.QA2, Spuistraat 114,
tel. (+31) 206 38 65 73, www.lecellier.nl. Open 09:3018:00, Mon 11:00-18:00, Sat 09:30-17:30. Closed Sun. A
Dont leave without perusing some Delft Blue
SYMBOL KEY
O Casino
T Child-friendly

V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
ANTIQUES & ART

ANTIQUARIAAT BRINKMAN
Antique books on all subjects and some maps as well.
QA3, Singel 319, tel. (+31) 206 23 83 53, www.
antiquariaatbrinkman.nl. Open 10:00-17:00, Sat 11:0017:00. Closed Sun. A
ANTIQUARIAAT LONT
Owner Marieke Lont specialises in antique books, posters
and postcards.QE4, Herenstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 26 39
82, www.antiquariaat-lont.nl. Open 11:00-18:00, Sat
11:00-17:00. Closed Sun. A
ANTIQUARIAN HOOGKAMP
An excellent selection of antique prints, maps, cityscapes
and botanicals from the 16th - 20th centuries.QG8, Spie
gelgracht 27, tel. (+31) 206 25 88 52, www.prenten.net.
Open 11:00-17:00. Closed Sun.
BRUIL & BRANDSMA
Dutch Renaissance art, furniture and local folk art.
QG8, Prinsengracht 1001, tel. (+31) 203 20 16 87,
bruilandbrandsmaantiques.com. Open 11:00-18:00.
Closed Sun.
THE TOTALITARIAN ART GALLERY
This gallery and antique shop sells an eclectic selection of
unusual art and memorabilia from the Soviet era including paintings, signs, toys and busts of Stalin.QF4, Singel
87, tel. (+31) 653 69 36 94, www.sovietart.com. Open
12:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed.
BOOKS
THE AMERICAN BOOK CENTER
Book lovers could spend days in this temple to Englishlanguage literature. Skip the coffee table books and magazines on the ground floor and climb up to the next two
floors for novels, travel, history, sci-fi, fantasy, political science and even manga.QA3, Spui 12, tel. (+31) 206 25
55 37, www.abc.nl. Open 10:00-20:00, Mon 11:00-20:00,
Thu 10:00-21:00, Sat 11:00-18:30. Closed Sun. A
THE BOOK EXCHANGE
Secondhand English-language books from fitcion and history to current events for good prices. Book exchanges also
possible as the name suggests.QB2, Kloveniersburg
wal 58, tel. (+31) 206 26 62 66, www.bookexchange.nl.
Open 10:00-18:00, Sun 11:30-16:00.
Shopping
WATERSTONES
An outstanding selection of English language literature
including books on travel, history and politics not to
mention contemporary fiction, classic novels, magazines
and newspapers on four floors.QA3, Kalverstraat 152,
tel. (+31) 206 38 38 21, www.waterstones.com. Open
09:30-18:30, Mon 10:00-18:00, Thu 09:30-21:00, Sat
10:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. A
CHEESE
AMSTERDAMS KAASHUIS
Although it looks like a tourist trap, where else can you
watch cheese being made in the centre of Amsterdam?
Cheese, chocolates and other souvenirs are sold here and
its also a good place to taste cheese for free.QA1, Har
ingpakkerssteeg 10, tel. (+31) 206 24 10 06. Open 10:0018:00, Thu 10:00-21:00. A
KAASLAND
This decades-old shop and bakery sells more than 200
kinds of cheeses.QE4, Haarlemmerdijk 1, tel. (+31) 206
25 79 45, www.kaasland.eu. Open 08:00-20:00, Tue,
Wed 08:00-18:30, Sat 08:00-18:00, Sun 09:30-19:00.
TJAS
REYPENAER
Dozens of other shops in Amsterdam will sell you the
standard yellow stuff, but the delicious Reypenaer
cheese sold here is a cut above the rest. Exclusivity does
come with a slightly higher price tag, but nothing makes
a better Amsterdam souvenir than the vacuum-packed
matured cheeses sold here.QE5, Singel 182, tel. (+31)
203 20 63 33, www.reypenaer.nl. Open 10:00-18:00,
Mon, Sun 12:00-18:00. Tastings at 12:00, 13:30, 15:00,
16:30 inlcude six cheeses and drinks. Tickets: 17.50.
TJ A S W
CHOCOLATES & SWEETS

JAMIN
This large chain of sweets shops literally sells all kinds of
sugary treats and candy by the kilo as well as sweets featuring logos like Hello Kitty and Littlest Pet Shop for the
kids.QA2, Kalverstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 20 22 56, www.
jamin.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Mon 12:00-18:00, Thu
10:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. A
JORDINO
Find incredible creations made by master chocolatiers
from chocolate truffles and moulded animals to highheeled shoes and even mini-Louis Vuiton purses made of
chocolate. A wide range of ice cream, gelato and sherbet
are also on offer.QE3, Haarlemmerdijk 25, tel. (+31) 204
20 32 25, www.jordino.nl. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon, Sun
13:00-19:00.
VANROSELEN FINE CHOCOLATES
Exclusive high-end cocoa products, ice cream and even
beer and wine that tastes like chocolate. Also sells organic,
fair trade chocolates.QG7, Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 72, tel.
(+31) 206 20 27 77, www.vanroselen.nl. Open 10:3018:30, Sat 10:30-18:00, Sun 12:00-16:30. A
DELFTWARE
JORRIT HEINEN DELFT SHOP
An official dealer of Royal Delft porcelain from cutesy souvenirs and tiles to upmarket vases and flatware. It also has
an outlet in the historic Munttoren (Mint Tower).QE6, Prin
sengracht 440, tel. (+31) 206 27 82 99, www.jorritheinen.
com. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
RINASCIMENTO DELFTWARE
This official Delftware factory dealer sells everything from
plates, tiles and vases to beautiful Christmas ornaments the perfect souvenir.QE5, Prinsengracht 170, tel. (+31)
206 22 75 09, www.delft-art-gallery.com. Open 09:00
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
DELIS & FOOD

EICHHOLTZ
This delicatessen has been in operation since 1888, but
now specialises in products for homesick Americans and
Brits. Buy anything from Fruit Loops and A&W root beer to
eggnog and Aunt Jemima syrup for inflated prices.QF7,
Leidsestraat 48, tel. (+31) 206 22 03 05. Open 10:0018:30, Thu 09:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-18:00.
FISHES
Everything from mussels, salmon, calamari and scallops to
prepared seafood salads.QH7, Utrechtsestraat 98, tel.
(+31) 206 26 85 00, www.fishes.nl. Open 10:00-18:30,
Mon 12:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun.
DUTCH SOUVENIRS
Cheese Dutch cheese is simply legendary and among
the worlds best. For the best big chunks and whole
wheels of Gouda, goat or sheep cheese go to Cheese
& More on Leidsestraat. If you have a more demanding
palate try the gourmet cheeses at Reypenaer (Singel
182). Our personal favourite would have to be Oude
Amsterdam Kaas (Old Amsterdam Cheese) sold at all
local cheese shops.
Delftware The factory in Delft
isnt exactly close to Amsterdam,
but Delfts Blauw (blue porcelain)
is sold everywhere in Amsterdam. Find a tourist shop and go
wild with the little cute statues.
We particularly like the Christmas ornaments at Jorrit Heinen
(Prinsengracht 440) and Rinascimento (Prinsengracht
170).
Stroopwafels It looks like a gooey biscuit thats been
run over, but its actually delicious. One of the most
exported products among people visiting their friends
and family abroad (because its small, easy to transport
and very tasty), you can find them at any supermarket
and most souvenir shops.
Autumn 2015
45
Shopping
DEPARTMENT STORES
DE BIJENKORF
This posh department store on Dam Square offers two
cafs, a restaurant, men and womens fashion and lots
of upmarket shopping on six floors. The place to go for
the brands like Vuitton and Hermes.QA2, Dam 1, www.
debijenkorf.nl. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon, Sun 11:0019:00, Thu, Fri 10:00-21:00, Sat 09:30-19:00. AK
EROTIC GEAR
CONDOMERIE HET GULDEN VLIES
It claims to be the worlds first specialised condom shop.
If its got anything to do with prophylactics, this place has
it. You can also buy wider, snugger or longer rubbers depending on your length and girth.QA2, Warmoesstraat
141, tel. (+31) 206 27 41 75, www.condomerie.com.
Open 11:00-18:00. Closed Sun. A
FEMALE & PARTNERS
Discover an excellent assortment of sexy womens lingerie from traditional silk and lace to leather and latex, not
to mention classy sex toys, bondage accessories and lubricants.QA2, Spuistraat 100, tel. (+31) 206 20 91 52,
www.femaleandpartners.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Mon
13:00 - 18:30, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
13:00 - 18:00. A
PRESS BOX
Brutally honest.
Wall Street Journal
Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In
Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by
comparison.
The Independent
Detailed, carefully researched guides.
Daily Mail
Solid, reliable information on everything from where
to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72
hours in a city.
The Guardian
In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned
out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and
other travel hazards. They have become a European
publishing phenomenon.
International Herald Tribune
Fresh seafood at the Albert Cuyp Market
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

HEINEKEN BRANDSTORE
A heaven for Heineken lovers, this massive glass and steel
shop on two and half floors sells everything from typical
beer souvenirs like t-shirts, bottle openers and glasses to
mini-keg coolers, giant bean bags and even sports jackets
and dresses with the famous red star logo.QG/H7, Am
stelstraat 31, tel. (+31) 205 30 47 70, www.heineken.
com/brandstore. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon, Sun 13:00
- 20:00. A
KNUFFELS-PLUCHE-KLOMPENBOER
Like the Dutch name suggests, this place sells toys, gadgets and traditional wooden shoes. The latter are made
in the shops own factory.QB2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat
39 - 51, tel. (+31) 204 27 38 62, www.knuffels.com. Open
10:00-18:00. A
INTERIOR DESIGN
KITSCH KITCHEN
Although this shop sells plenty of items for your kitchen, it
also specialises in all kinds of interesting products for your
home including baskets, textiles, carpets, blankets, bags,
stationery and tableware.QE7, Rozengracht 8-12, tel.
(+31) 204 62 00 50, www.kitschkitchen.nl. Open 10:0018:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. A
VINTAGE HOME
In the heart of De Pijp youll find this 250m2 vintage shop
with great designer furniture from the late 1950s to the
early 1980s. Even if you dont buy anything here, which
is hard to imagine, youll have gained enough inspiration
to redecorate your home.QG9, Daniel Stalpertstraat 97,
tel. (+31) 206 79 04 72, info@vintagehome.nl, www.
vintagehome.nl. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. TAL
KIDS STUFF
TINKER BELL
All kinds of interesting learning toys including safe science
experiments for older children.QF8, Spiegelgracht 10,
tel. (+31) 206 25 88 30, www.tinkerbelltoys.nl. Open
10:00-18:00, Mon 13:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. A
Shopping
MARKETS
SPECIALITY SHOPS
ALBERT CUYP MARKET (ALBERT CUYPMARKT)

This vibrant daily market located in the bohemian De Pijp
district is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery,
fresh seafood like crab and lobster, flowers, lingerie, souvenirs, fresh fruit, hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more
things you cant do without as wells as plenty of food stalls.
QH9, Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com.
Open 09:00-18:00. Closed Sun.
FLOWER MARKET (BLOEMENMARKT)
The Flower Market is a tourist attraction and a functioning market in one. You can buy bulbs and seeds for all
kinds of plants and flowers and we have to admit that
weve also picked up a Venus flytrap kit here, which was
a huge hit with kids at home.QA/B3, Singel (Between
Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sun
11:00 - 17:30.
NOORDERMARKT (BOERENMARKT)
Every Saturday this market in the Jordaan district positively teems with life. Located on a lovely square in the
shadow of the Norderkerk (North Church), you can browse
through stalls selling cheese, vintage clothing, sausages,
fresh produce, antiques and lots of other food and fashion.
QE4, Noordermarkt, www.boerenmarktamsterdam.
nl. Open Sat 09:00-16:00.
A SPACE ODDITY
This is the place for film and TV action figures and collectibles from the Twilight saga and Harry Potter to original
1980s Star Wars toys.QE6, Prinsengracht 204, tel. (+31)
204 27 40 36, www.spaceoddity.nl. Open 11:00-17:30,
Sat 10:15-17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
DUIKELMAN
If you love to cook then drop by Duikelmans for both expensive and affordable items from pots and pans to oyster
knives and meat grinders.QH10, Ferdinand Bolstraat
66-68, tel. (+31) 206 71 22 30, www.duikelman.nl. Open
09:30-18:00, Sat 09:30-17:00. Closed Sun. A
KERAMIEK ATELIER MARJOKE DE HEER
If youre interested in ceramics you can watch the artist at
work here or have a look at the gallery of finished products. The gallery is open on weekends or by appointment.
QN-4, Schellingwouderdijk 243, tel. (+31) 204 90 49 39,
www.marjokedeheer.com. Open Fri 13:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. A
MUSIC SHOPS
CONCERTO
Possibly the citys, and perhaps the nations largest collection of new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl spread
out across five buildings: one for classical, another for
world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one dedicated
to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used CDs.
Amazing!QH7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206 23
52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Thu,
Fri 10:00-19:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. A
RECORD MANIA
Record Mania has a great collection of vinyl from old blues
and punk records to soul and funk.QG9, Ferdinand Bol
straat 30, tel. (+31) 206 20 99 12, www.recordmania.nl.
Open 12:00-18:00.
SECONDHAND & VINTAGE

LES PETITES SUCCES
This small vintage shop has a wide selection of garments for all
occasions. Its cakes are also well worth the detour.QB2, Sint
Jansstraat 61, tel. (+31) 203 70 60 01, www.lespetitespuces.
nl. Open 12:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J
TUTTI FRUTTI
This cosy little shop deals in second-hand designer clothes
and you can also sell your own garments if they conform
to Tutti Fruttis high standards. Otherwise you can just
search for that special dressyouve always wanted. It offers
huge sales in January and August.QD8, Bilderdijkstraat
147, tel. (+31) 206 12 18 54, www.tutti-frutti.tv. Open
10:00-18:00, Mon 13:00-18:00. Closed Sun.
SPORTS & OUTDOORS

FJLLRVEN BRAND CENTER
This popular Swedish brand, which means arctic fox, specialises in all kinds of outdoor gear from its signature backpacks and camping essentials like tents to clothing, hiking
boots and all the apparel youll need to spend time in nature. Its large brand centre in Amsterdam is conveniently
located on the Rozengracht.QD7, Rozengracht 219
- 225, tel. (+31) 204 28 17 60, www.fjallravencenter.nl.
Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 12:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-20:00,
Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. JA
SUPERMARKETS
ALBERT HEIJN
The largest supermarket chain in the Netherlands has dozens of locations all over Amsterdam.QA2, Nieuwezijds
Voorburgwal 226, tel. (+31) 204 21 83 44, www.ah.nl.
Open 08:00-22:00. Also at Jodenbreestraat 21, tel. (+31)
206 24 12 49. Open 08:00 - 22:00; Prins Hendrikkade 20,
tel. (+31) 206 27 06 01. Open 07:00 - 22:00; Stadhouder
skade 101, tel. (+31) 206 75 28 88. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00; and many other locations.
Amsterdams shops have something for everyone
Autumn 2015
47
Lifestyle Directory
Need to wash some clothes, fins a doctor or get a massage
at a day spa? Youll find the answers here.
AJAX FOOTBALL MATCHES
BICYCLE REPAIR
Whether due to the magic of its illustrious past, the

excitement of the famous arena or just as part of a
football pilgrimage, Ajax still draws tens of thousands
of tourists every year. There are a high number of season ticket holders, so only a few thousand seats are for
sale for each game, which can be bought via the official
Ajax site (www.ajax.nl). Matches are seldom boring in
large part due to Section 410. This part of the stadium
is populated by mostly young fans that are the teams
most die-hard supporters. This is in stark contrast to
the official so-called core support of the F-side, which
you can find behind the goal. Photo courtesy of Ajax
Football Club
HET ZWARTE FIETSENPLAN

Looking for replacement parts for your bike? Crashed into
a car and need repairs? These guys will sort you out.QF8,
Lijnbaansgracht 282 - 283, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31. Open
08:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 09:00-17:00. A
BOWLING
KNIJN BOWLING
A lane will cost you 21 - 28/hour depending on the day
and time.QD6, Scheldplein 3, tel. (+31) 206 64 22 11,
www.knijnbowling.nl. AK
CINEMAS
HET KETELHUIS
Set in a rather spacious former warehouse, it offers Dutch
and foreign arthouse movies, Q&As, debates and even
dance events.QC4, Pazzanistraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 84
00 90, www.ketelhuis.nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Wed, Fri
14:00-01:00, Sat 12:00-03:00, Sun 10:30-03:00. XW
THE MOVIES
An institution in Amsterdam since 1912, The Moviesoffers
independent films and a bar.QD4, Haarlemmerdijk 161
- 163, tel. (+31) 206 38 60 16, www.themovies.nl.
DENTISTS
TANDARTSEN AAN DE HERENGRACHT
QF6, Herengracht 318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, www.
tadh.nl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
KARTING
RACE PLANET AMSTERDAM
The place to go in Amsterdam for indoor go-karting. It also
offers specials for kids parties.QHerwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206
11 11 20, www.raceplanet.nl. Open 13:00-23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00-23:00.
Amsterdam Arena Arena boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11

13 33, www.ajax.nl, www.amsterdamarena.nl.
Upcoming matches at Amsterdam Arena:

31.10
05.11
21.11
05.12
10.12
20.12
19:45
19:00
19:45
20:45
19:00
16:45
Ajax vs. Roda JC

AA
Ajax vs. Fenerbahce SK
AA
Ajax vs. SC Cambuur Leeuwarden AA
Ajax vs. SC Heerenveen
AA
Ajax vs. Molde FK
AA
Ajax vs. De Graafschap
AA
LAUNDRIES & DRY CLEANERS

LAUNDRY & THINGS
Self-serve washing machines.QA1, Warmoesstraat 30,
tel. (+31) 614 03 28 03. Open 08:00-22:00.
WASH & COFFEE
Just like the name says.QG9/10, Quellijnstraat 90, tel.
(+31) 204 70 36 79, washcoffee.amsterdam@gmail.
com, www.wash-coffee.nl. Open 07:30-18:30. Closed
Tue.
WASSALON LAUNDRY
Wash it yourself or drop it off and itll be ready in a few
hours.QG9, Frans Halssatraat 83, tel. (+31) 643 58 32
09. Open 08:30-18:00, Sat 09:00-18:00. Closed Sun.
LIBRARIES
They look a little too sullen for souvenirs
CENTRALE BIBLIOTHEEK
This modern glass building between the Central Station
and the NEMO Science Centre not only has an interesting
location but also books in English, internet access and its
open late.QH3, Oosterdokskade 143, tel. (+31) 205 23
09 00, info@oba.nl, www.oba.nl. Open 10:00-22:00.
Lifestyle Directory
MASSAGE
REAL ESTATE
CHINA BEAUTY MASSAGE CENTER

A full body massage, a pedicure or a foot massage cost
35 for one hour. A 30-minute foot massage, which includes a head, neck and shoulder massage, costs 20.
QA2, Paleisstraat 19, tel. (+31) 204 21 21 21, www.
chinesemassageamsterdam.com. Open 11:00-23:00.
Also at Kloveniersburgwal 28 (Shanghai Beauty), tel.
(+31) 204 20 94 82.
KOAN FLOAT
This massage centre lets you relax by floating in warm water heated to 35.5C.QF7, Herengracht 321, tel. (+31) 205
55 03 33, www.koanfloat.nl. Open 09:30-23:00. JA
DIRECT WONEN
If youre looking for an apartment, these guys may be able
to help.QE8, Overtoom 47, tel. (+31) 206 16 16 66, www.
directwonen.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
MEDICAL & WELLNESS

EXPAT MEDICAL CENTRE
The English-speaking doctors here offer medical attention, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they
accept EU health cards, too!QD6, Bloemgracht 112, tel.
(+31) 204 27 50 11, www.expatmc.net. Open 09:0018:00. Closed Sat, Sun. On Saturdays and Sundays by
appointment only.
PAINTBALL & LASER TAG

PAINTBALL JUNGLE
Shoot your friends as part of a stag night or come here
with your colleagues for a little team building exercise.
QWethouder van Essenweg, tel. (+31) 206 13 11 29,
www.paintballjungle.nl. Open 09:00-23:00.
PHARMACIES
DA APOTHEEK LEIDSESTRAAT
The pharmacy can be reached during the day via the
entrance of the DA-drugstore at Leidsestraat around the
corner.QF7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76, tel. (+31) 204 22 02
10, www.da-apotheekleidsestraat.apotheek.org. Open
09:00-21:50. Closed Sat, Sun.
DAM APOTHEEK
Centrally located pharmacy next to the Dam.QA2, Dam
straat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 43 31, damapotheek@ezorg.nl,
www.dam-apotheek.nl. Open 09:00-17:30. A
SPAS & BEAUTY

CITY STREET SPA
The Japanese-style City Street Spa is Amsterdams latest
attraction among the spa set. Apart from the usual treatments, you can also hire the whole place for 60/hour.
QG8, Prinsengracht 764, tel. (+31) 202 21 41 02, info@
thecitystreetspa.com,
www.thecitystreetspa.com.
Open 10:00-20:00.
HAMMAM AMSTERDAM
The relaxing atmosphere of this single sex Near Easternstyle bath house can be enjoyed by all, but you must
bring your own scrubbing glove and if you dont have
one youre obligated to buy one for 5. Facilities include
a sauna, Turkish steam bath, chill out areas, beauty treatments, massage, solarium and a caf.QC3, Zaanstraat
88, tel. (+31) 206 81 48 18, www.hammamamsterdam.
nl. For women open Tues - Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 20:00, for men open Mon 12:00 - 22:00. Admis
sion: adults 17, children 6 - 11 years 10, children 2 - 5
years 8, boys under 4 are allowed to enter on womens
days with their mothers.
SWIMMING POOLS
HET MARNIX
Despite its small size, Het Marnix boasts two swimming
pools, a spa and a restaurant.QD5, Marnixplein 1, tel.
(+31) 205 24 60 00, www.hetmarnix.nl. AK
TATTOOS & PIERCING

DERMADONNA CUSTOM TATTOOS
Get a tattoo from real experts.QB2, Kloveniersburg
wal 34, tel. (+31) 207 73 66 14/(+31) 611 28 47 39, www.
dermadonna.nl. Open 12:00-20:00.
HANKY PANKY TATTOOING
Tattoos in the Red Light district.QB2, Oudezijds
voorburgwal 141, tel. (+31) 206 27 48 48, www.
hankypankytattoo.nl. Open 11:00-18:00.
TATTOO PALACE
The tattoo artists have been at it here since 1989.QB3,
Reguliersdwarsstraat 91, tel. (+31) 206 38 44 48, www.
tattoopalace.com. Open 12:00-19:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
12:00-22:00, Sun 14:00-19:00.
VETS & PETS

The Tuschinski is a popular cinema right on Leidsestraat
DIERENKLINIEK DE JORDAAN
QD4, 2e Goudsbloemdwarsstraat 19, tel. (+31) 204 23
61 04, www.dierenkliniekdejordaan.nl. Open 09:0018:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Autumn 2015
49
Hotels
Amsterdam has it all from five-star design suites to forlorn hovels that have been grudgingly awarded a single star.
CREAM OF THE CROP

NH GRAND HOTEL KRASNAPOLSKY
What began in the 19th century as a coffee house on the
Warmoesstraat expanded over time into the massive hotel you see now on the Dam. Due to its age and historic
significance, the Krasnapolsky hasnt conformed to the
modern NH hotel group style and many of its 468 rooms
have retained some elements of their old world elegance.
That said, most of the accommodation includes huge flat
screen TVs and king size beds and the rooms in the new
wing have a more contemporary look. The hotel also offers restaurants and bars, fitness and business centres, ice
machines on each floor and valet parking and you can also
have breakfast in the spectacular Winter Garden atrium
where Dutch royalty have held their wedding receptions.
QA2, Dam 9, tel. (+31) 205 54 91 11, www.nh-hotels.
com. 468 rooms (426 deluxe and executive, 6 junior
suites, 1 suite, 35 apartments). PJHA6FL
KXW hhhhh
RENAISSANCE AMSTERDAM HOTEL
This luxurious five-star hotel, which is part of the Marriott
group, offers over 400 modern, tastefully decorated rooms
in the city centre only a five-minute walk from the Central
Station. Spread out over several buildings, the hotel was
completely renovated in 2009 and its accommodation
includes all of the amenities one would expect from a
five-star hotel including king size beds, wireless internet
access, climate control, large flat screen TVs and a few
extras like bathrobes, slippers and fresh fruit. A Mediterranean restaurant, a traditional brown caf and a hip cocktail
bar are also at your disposal as well as a health club and a
conference centre located in a converted Lutheran church
across the street that dates back to 1668.QA1, Kattengat
1, tel. (+31) 206 21 22 23, www.marriott.com. 402Total
rooms 402 rooms (deluxe from 269, club level from
329, junior suites from 409, royal suites available).
PJHAUFLGKDW hhhhh
Windmills can still be found if you know where to look
UPMARKET
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL AMSTERDAM
CENTRAAL STATION
This huge hotel offers over 500 spacious rooms in a modern glass and steel building on the water near the Central
Station. All accommodation includes tasteful dcor with
neutral colours, wall-to-wall carpeting, floor-to-ceiling
windows with excellent views, iMac computers with
free wi-fi, refrigerators and private bathrooms. Executive
rooms and suites have the added benefit of complimentary mini-bars, breakfast and a morning newspaper. The
massive structure also houses a gym, conference facilities, a lobby bar, a caf and the rooftop Sky Lounge that
affords patrons unparalleled vistas of Amsterdam.QG4,
Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00, www.
placesdoubletree.com. 553 rooms (doubles/twin from
204, executive from 254, suites from 354). PT
JHA6ULGBKXW hhhh
EDEN AMSTERDAM MANOR HOTEL
This massive brick building that was once a hospital where
legendary footballer Johan Cruijff was born, was completely renovated and opened as a luxury hotel by the
Eden Group in the summer of 2010. Given its historical
significance to Amsterdam, much of the hotel has been
decorated with the citys iconic triple X symbol, including
the carpets, the walls and even the duvets on the beds.
Although the faade is a stark reminder of the buildings
past, the interior and the 125 rooms within are completely
modern and conform to the latest 21st-century design
trends. Accommodation includes all of the luxurious amenities you would expect and the layout of the junior suites
is often unique as most hotel rooms dont place large, rotating flat screen TVs at the foot of their beds. An Italian
restaurant, a bar and conference facilities are also available.
QK-7, Linnaeusstraat 89, tel. (+31) 207 00 84 00, www.
edenamsterdammanorhotel.com. 125 rooms (superior
rooms from 80, deluxe rooms from 100, junior suites
from 140). PHAULGBKW hhhh
PARK HOTEL AMSTERDAM
This stylish four-star hotel was completely renovated in
2008 and recently named the Netherlands best business
hotel. Modern design is already evident in the lobby also
know as the Living Room where you can relax with a drink
by a huge open fireplace or next to the library. Superior
rooms are decorated in subtle greys, whites and blacks
and include a piece of art by a Dutch designer as well
amenities like Nespresso machines and iPod docking stations and open-concept bathrooms with rainforest showerheads. Even more luxurious executive, bridal and splitlevel suites with kitchenettes are also available as well as a
hip Asian restaurant, a 24-hour fitness centre and conference rooms.QF5, Stadhouderskade 25, tel. (+31) 206 71
12 22, www.parkhotel.nl. superior doubles 129- 149,
executive doubles 169- 189, junior suites 209- 229,
bridal suite 369- 389, split level 289- 309, executive
suites 369- 389. PHAUFGKW hhhh
Hotels
SANDTON HOTEL DE FILOSOOF
Located between busy Overtoom and the peaceful Vondel
Park, the Philosopher offers 45 unique rooms each decorated in its own style, but all with a common theme of philosophy. You can expect the usual four-star amenities such as a
TV, wireless internet, safe, writing desk, private bathrooms
and in some cases wonderful views of the manicured garden below. Suites are located across the street and offer
more space and views of the historic hotels beautiful brick
faade and its embellishments, which are either gargoyles
or lions.QE10, Anna van den Vondelstraat 6, tel. (+31)
206 83 30 13, www.sandton.eu/amsterdam. 45 rooms
(23 cosy rooms 84 - 93, 10 deluxe rooms 100 - 110, 12
suites 148 - 155). HAKW hhh
BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS

BROOKLYN HOTEL
Opened in 2014, this wonderful design hotel is hard to miss
as it rises above the other structures on the NDSM wharf
that juts out from Amsterdam Noord far into the waters of
the River IJ. You can expect exceptional accommodation
decorated in neutral brown, beige and grey colours that
includes leather furniture, big beds, wireless internet access, mini-bar and all of the other modern amenities no to
mention incredible views. We particularly liked the room
where you can shower and look out the floor-to-ceiling
glass window. If lstyle is important then Brooklyn wont
disappoint.QNDSM-Plein 28, tel. (+31) 207 22 06 66,
www.brooklynhotel.nl. 88 rooms (standard doubles
from 89, deluxe rooms from 129). PALKW
MIRACULOUS AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam first put its name on the map of Europe not
with its trading prowess, its port or with prostitution,
but with a supposed miracle thats still celebrated today on March 12. The story goes that in 1345 a man was
gravely ill and summoned a priest to administer communion, but the man was so sick that he couldnt keep
anything down and kept vomiting, so the clergyman
advised the women of the household to throw any
expelled holy liquids on the fire, which they did. The
next morning they discovered a perfectly formed host,
or communion wafer, in the fireplace, which seemed
impervious to the surrounding flames. A miracle was
declared, a chapel was built on the site of the house
and pilgrims began streaming into Amsterdam. Today
pilgrims of a different sort still converge on the city and
quite a few probably also vomit here, but we doubt
that the shoarma and French fries that come up have
any religious significance. Its also interesting to note
that the chapel was later destroyed and the building
that now occupies its place houses the Amsterdam
Dungeon. Sources also dont seem to mention what
became of the man who started all of the commotion
with his holy heaving.
Typical Amsterdam architecture
HOTEL THE EXCHANGE

The people who brought you the Lloyd Hotel in Amsterdam East have expanded their unique hospitality concept
to the city centre. They believe, and rightly so, that style
should be available to all, so the hotel offers rooms of
varying sizes and levels of comfort for all budgets in one
building. Five-star rooms are more spacious and offer
more amenities than a one-star room, but all accommodation includes cutting-edge interior design. The New York
Times even praised the hotels designers writing: they accessorized each room as if it were a model.QA-1, Damrak
50, tel. (+31) 205 61 36 99, www.hoteltheexchange.
com. 61 rooms (1-star from 82, 2-star from 88, 3-star
from 92, 4-star from 115, 5-star from 138).
HOTEL VONDEL
This fantastic boutique hotel located in a quiet Museum
district neighbourhood is an excellent choice for anyone
who requires accommodation with cutting-edge design.
A unique blend of new and antique, European and Asian,
Hotel Vondel offers four-star rooms with every imaginable
amenity including flat screen TVs, wireless internet, iPod
speakers and mini-bars as well as individually designed
interiors and private natural stone bathrooms with walkin rainforest showers and/or bathtubs. A private garden is
also at you disposal as well as a trendy lounge and restaurant.QE9, Vondelstraat 26, tel. (+31) 206 12 01 20,
www.vondelhotels.com. singles 85 - 120, doubles
90 - 130, triples 160 - 195, suites 380, executive
rooms 115- 165. PHAGKW hhhh
NL-HOTEL LEIDSEPLEIN
Although designed by a renowned Dutch architect, all
of this wonderful hotels 13 rooms have Asian influences
such as bamboo plants or bonsai trees, not to mention a
representation of the Buddha in each room. All of the usual
amenities are included such as cable TV, wireless internet
and modern bathrooms with frosted glass doors. Deluxe
rooms also boast mini-fridges and coffee machines and
one even has its own private Asian garden. Finally, the
staff are genuinely friendly and the hubbub of Leidseplein
is only minutes away.QE9, Nassaukade 368, tel. (+31)
206 89 00 30, www.nl-hotel.com. 13 rooms (singles
85 - 200, doubles 110 - 200). ZALGW hhh
Autumn 2015
51
Hotels
MID-RANGE
CONSCIOUS HOTEL MUSEUM SQUARE
As far as price is concerned, this is one of the better hotels
in town, even though the exterior doesnt suggest anything
exciting. The size of the simple, but clean and comfortable rooms vary from reasonable to extraordinarily large,
especially when one considers similar accommodation in
Amsterdam. Then again, only its sister hotel on Overtoom
is truly similar. Both try to be as green and eco-friendly as
possible using recycled materials in their furnishings and
even offer organic breakfasts. The Vondel Park is a short
stroll away and the centre of town is about a 15-minute
walk.QF-10, De Lairessestraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 71 95 96,
www.conscioushotels.com. 36 rooms (doubles and fam
ily rooms 95 - 174). ALGW hhh
ESPRESSO HOTEL CITY CENTRE
Conveniently located on Amsterdam Wests main drag,
Overtoom, this stylish, yet affordable hotel opened its
doors at the end of 2012. All of its accommodation including twin rooms, doubles and triples are decorated in a
similar style that features coffee-coloured floral wallpaper.
Amenities such as flat screen TVs, climate control, free
wireless internet access, laptop safes, coffee/tea sets and
small private bathrooms all come standard and a great
ground floor lounge with views of street is also at your disposal.QE9, Overtoom 57, tel. (+31) 204 12 08 80, www.
hotelespresso.nl. 68 rooms (twin/doubles from 90,
triples from 120). PAUGKW hhh
HOTEL IRON HORSE
When one looks at the quaint brick faade of this typically narrow building, one can hardly believe that a stylish,
modern three-star hotel with an equine theme is housed
inside its historic walls. Why a horse theme you might ask?
It was formerly used as the headquarters for the Amsterdam mounted police, hence all of the photos of mans
other best friend on the walls of its bright and cosy rooms.
You can expect the usual amenities like flat screen TVs,
free wi-fi, private bathrooms, phone and climate control.
You can also ask for a room in the main house or in the
back building.QE9, Overtoom 33, tel. (+31) 202 62 92
20, www.hotelironhorse.com. 42 rooms (singles from
76, doubles/twin from 85, triples from 113, family
rooms from 142). PAW hhh
HOTEL LEIDSE SQUARE AMSTERDAM
This modest and somewhat old-fashioned hotel can be
found in a quiet district only walking distance from Vondel
Park. Everything you need for a comfortable stay is present
including an electric kettle and a safe, but bear in mind that
the rooms are on the small side and the bathrooms are tiny.
Comfortable mattresses are a major bonus, but the breakfast could be better and definitely isnt worth the 10 fee,
especially since there are so many attractive spots to eat
right beyond your doorstep.QE9, Tesselschadestraat 23,
tel. (+31) 206 12 68 76, www.leidsesquarehotel.nl. 89
rooms (singles, twin and triples 45 - 250). ALGW
HOTEL MOSAIC
This modern glass, stone and steel building is completely
different from most of the lodgings in the area. All of its
35 rooms offer flat screen TV, free wireless internet access,
hardwood floors and bright beige interiors, private bathrooms, climate control and coffee/tea sets, which is important as the hotel doesnt offer breakfast or any meals for
that matter. Our room also had floor-to-ceiling windows
and a terrace. The hotel is located on the second floor of the
building. Follow the instructions at the entrance and the
staff will buzz you in.QE9, Eerste Constantijn Huygens
straat 14a, tel. (+31) 204 89 90 00, www.hotelmosaic.nl.
35 rooms (singles from 110, doubles from 145, triples
from 215, quads from 280). PAW hhh
BED & BREAKFAST

B&B ALL IN THE FAMILY
Among arty shops and tiny restaurants in the Jordaan,
youll find this bed and breakfast with only two rooms.
Its owned by a cheerful couple that enjoys sharing
their house and knowledge of the city with their guests.
Squeeze yourself into the old fashioned Dutch kitchen
for breakfast or in the small backyard where you can hear
birds singing. Both rooms are in the attic, but we like the
one near the original hoisting beam on the facade. Expect
cosy accommodation with comfortable double beds,
washbasin, fridge, fan, water kettle and a shared bathroom.QG6, 2e Eglantierdwarsstraat 10, tel. (+31) 207
76 36 36, www.allinthefamily.nl. 2 rooms (doubles 95
- 110). JA
BED & GUIDE AMSTERDAM
If youre looking for luxurious accommodation right in the
centre of the Amsterdams canal belt, then you should
give this renovated 17th-century canal house a try. One
apartment offers a full kitchen and living room as well as
a separate bedroom and bathroom on the second floor,
while the other is located on the ground floor and includes
access to a private garden. Free bicycles and a tour of the
city are included in the price as well as a stocked fridge, so
you make your own breakfast in the morning.QG8, Kerk
straat 202, tel. (+31) 655 79 19 49, www.bedandguide.
nl. 2 apartments (doubles 175). JAW
Brick of all shapes, colours and sizes
Hotels
BOTELS
CHAMBRE BOOT
For all the landlubbers who got seasick on the ferry to Amsterdam Noord, this place isnt for you. If, on the other hand,
you dont mind waking up with a panoramic view of the
River IJ, staying at Chambre Boot will be a unique experience. This boathouse is a former Jazz club turned into an attractive bed and breakfast. Although the owners live in the
boat next door, youll have the whole house to yourself. The
vessel has a wonderfully bright living room with kitchen, a
separate bedroom and a small terrace.QSchellingwouderdijk 410, tel. (+31) 624 64 52 80, www.chambreboot.nl. 1
boathouse (75 - 90). GBXW
BUDGET
BACKSTAGE HOTEL AMSTERDAM
Its really hard to find good accommodation in Amsterdam
for a price that wont leave you feeling like youve been
mugged, but, somehow, this hip hotel manages to do just
that. It keeps its rates surprisingly low and its guests happy
with free wi-fi, iPod docking stations in each room, trendy
Flight Case furniture and a great location thats close
enough to the bars and clubs of Leidseplein, but just far
enough away so you dont actually hear all of the nightlife thats associated with the square. QE7, Leidsegracht
114, tel. (+31) 206 24 40 44, www.backstagehotel.com.
22 rooms (singles from 59, doubles/twin from 88,
triples from 138, quads and quintuples from 198).
TJALGW hh
EASYHOTEL AMSTERDAM FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT
The cheap, no frills airline EasyJet has also branched out
into cruise ships and even hotels, which is desperately
needed in Amsterdam where room prices are often ridiculously and undeservedly expensive. Located in the
bohemian De Pijp district of Amsterdam South, this hotel
provides tiny rooms with WC and a glass shower in the
room, so if you have a roommate he/she better not be shy.
Not unlike the airline, you have to pay for any extra amenities such as TV, wireless internet access and housekeeping
services.QH10, Van Ostadestraat 97, danny.vanspall@
amsterdamfb.easyhotel.com, www.easyhotel.com. 80
rooms (doubles from 59). PZJAULGW
TOURIST INN
Part hotel, part hostel, the aptly named Tourist Inn offers
clean recently renovated singles, doubles and triples with
flat screen TVs, wireless internet access, air conditioning
and private bathrooms with shower and hair dryer or
slightly cheaper rooms with shared toilets and showers.
Six-bed dorms with clean bunk beds, TVs, lockers and
wi-fi are also a bargain and the shared toilet and shower
facilities are clean and modern. Four computers with internet access are available in the reception area for a small
fee. QA1, Spuistraat 52, tel. (+31) 204 21 58 41, www.
tourist-inn.nl. 22 rooms (singles, doubles and triples
from 60, dorm beds 20 - 35/person). PAW
Bridges arent just for walking or cycling in Amsterdam
HOSTELS
STAYOKAY AMSTERDAM ZEEBURG
Since 2007 this colossal brick building has been one of
Amsterdams largest and most modern hostels. Its 500
beds are spread throughout its doubles, quads and six-bed
dorm rooms all of which include a Spartan interior with an
orange and grey colour scheme, new metal bunk beds, a
sink and a separate shower and toilet. Unfortunately youll
have to stow your important gear in lockers on the ground
floor. A caf is also availableand the IJ brewery is only a short
walk away.QK5/6, Timorplein 21, tel. (+31) 205 51 31 90,
www.stayokay.com. 500 beds (beds in six-bed dorms
from 9, beds in four-bed dorms from 11, doubles from
32, quads from 42). AUGKW
THE FLYING PIG UPTOWN HOSTEL AMSTERDAM
If youre looking for cheap, quiet and peaceful accommodation, then you might want to keep looking, but if its a
fun hostel youre after then this is the place to crash. One of
three Flying Pig hostels in Amsterdam, the Uptown venue
is located right next to the Vondelpark and offers both
private rooms as well as dorms, which include in-room
lockers. The lively bar is a great place to meet fellow travellers and a smoking room is available in case you want to
light up a cigarette or perhaps something stronger. A chill
out room and a kitchen are at your disposal and breakfast
and a walking tour are included in the price.QF10, Vos
siusstraat 46, tel. (+31) 204 00 41 87, www.flyingpig.nl.
APARTMENT RENTAL
WORLD FASHION APARTMENTS
If youre one of those travellers who prefers to cook his
own meals and avoid the often sterile and generic accommodation offered by standard hotels, you can book one
of the many luxury apartments offered by this company
in Nieuw-West. Stay in a studio apartment for as little as
135/night or choose a swankier penthouse apartment
for considerably more money. All apartments include a
kitchen, free wi-fi and interiors in various styles.QKoningin
Wilhelminaplein 272, tel. (+31) 203 01 39 33, www.
worldfashionapartments.com. 60 apartments (studio
from 135, two-room from 155, three-room from
175). TA6LGKXW
Autumn 2015
53
Amsterdam for kids

Although we wouldnt recommend a stroll with the kids
around the Red Light district, except perhaps as a cautionary tale, Amsterdam does have plenty of options for the little ones. Here are some of the best.
AMSTERDAM MARIONETTE THEATRE (AMSTERDAMS MARIONETTEN THEATER)
The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre performs plays in
its small theatre using traditional wooden marionettes.
Performances are usually in Dutch, but due to the visual
and musical nature of the acts, most kids wont care
about the language barrier. You can also take a backstage tour for a behind the scenes look at the marionettes and costumes.QB1, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8,
tel. (+31) 206 20 80 27, www.marionettentheater.nl.
Admission: adults 16, children 7 - 14 years 7.50.
Opening times vary. TJ
BOUNZ
What used to be a classroom for PE teachers in training has now been transformed into a large trampoline
centre. Young and old enjoy jumping, back flipping
and flopping on 32 connected trampolines. Its a lot of
fun, but if youre over the age of 30, muscle aches are
guaranteed!QWillinklaan 3-5, tel. (+31) 206 11 44 81,
info@bounzsport.nl, www.bounzsport.nl. Open 13:0019:00, Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission:
5.50/hour. TL
BOUWSPEELPLAATS T LANDJE
Believe or not, but dads arent allowed in this childrens
paradise. The management decided that their adult
male presence was just too stern and would prevent
kids from being, well, kids. t Landje, which is located
on a peninsula in Rembrandt Park, offers arts and crafts
classes and other activities for children.QRembrandt
park, tel. (+31) 206 18 36 04, imuls@impuls.nl, www.
impuls.nl. Open 12:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-17:30. Closed
Mon, Sun. TI B C
DE PIJP PETTING ZOO (KINDERBOERDERIJ DE
PIJP)
This petting zoo has been entertaining children in De Pijp
since 1983 and is home to an amazing 50 different species
of animals from goldfish and rodents to turtles and ducks.
The usual ponies, donkeys, pigs, rabbits, goats and sheep
are also on hand.QH10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel.
(+31) 206 64 83 03, kinderboerderijdepijp@wanadoo.
nl, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. Open 11:00-17:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00-17:00. T
FUN FOREST
This climbing park has eight different routes of varying
difficulty at various heights within living trees. Climbing with a harness can take up to three hours including
a 20-minute safety course. Fun for adults and children.
QBosbaanweg 3, Amstelveen, tel. (+31) 206 42 96 83,
amsterdam@funforest.nl, www.funforest.nl. Admis
sion: 11.50 - 21.50.
Find your inner scientist at Science Center NEMO
DigiDaan
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO

Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to find this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily
lives will change in the future with new and advanced
technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. An exhibition entitled World of Shapes allows you to create new
shapes from triangles and squares and children can tower
above their parents in the Ames room. You can also bring
your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or purchase food
at the museum. A good museum shop is also available.
QH4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, info@eNEMO.nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00-17:30. Admis
sion: 15, children under four free. AK
SPEELTUIN PLAN WEST
One of the citys best-kept secrets can be found smack in
the middle of West. Just look for a gate at Van Speijkstraat
65a, which leads to an enormous natural playground. Inside
youll find a climbing rock, water fountains, tree huts and
a sports field measuring 400m2. A litany of rules must be
followed to ensure that the kids dont have too much fun.
QVan Speijkstraat 65, www.aandeslaginspeeltuin.nl.
Open 12:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-17:00. Closed Mon. T
TUNFUN SPEELPARK
In what looks like a disused underground metro station
lies Tun Fun, a childrens paradise. If you cant find it just
follow the steady stream of families, childrens parties
and school excursions into the depth of this enormous
playground that includes slides, climbing labyrinths,
painting workshops, trampolines and other atrractions.
The screams of the children can be a bit overwhelming
at times but internet access and cans of beer at the caf
help keep the cacaphony of pre-pubescant chatter at bay.
Adults are only admitted with children and only have to
pay an entrance fee for their kids.QH5, Mr. Visserplein
7, tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www.tunfun.nl. Open 10:0018:00. Admission: kids 7.50, adults free. KW
Centrum Map
Centrum Map
Holland Highlights
If youre looking for a short day trip from Amsterdam or perhaps a journey farther afield, we have a few suggestions.
Alkmaar Kaasmarkt (Cheese Market)
Yes, its true. Hoorn, Gouda, Woerden and Edam have them,
too, but if youd like to see Hollands most renowned cheese
market, you have to go to Alkmaar. Every Friday huge
wheels of cheese are carried around and weighed on the
old town market, which is quite the sight. The market is
held every Friday 10:00 - 12:30 from April to the Beginning
of September. Trains depart from Amsterdam for Alkmaar
four times every hour.
Delft
Yes, theres also an Oude Kerk (Old Church), but the Nieuwe
Kerk is where all the deceased members of the Dutch royal
family are buried. Even legendary William of Orange rests
here for all eternity. Its quite impressive and a must-see if
youre in Delft as is the Royal Delft factory tour. See how
Hollands most famous blue porcelain has been made for
centuries (www.royaldelft.com).
Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem)
Sick of the same museums around Museumplein in Amsterdam? The Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem displays an
amazing collection of paintings by Dutch old masters and
is the museum to visit if you appreciate Dutch Golden Age
art. Haarlem is close to Amsterdam and trains run frequently between the two cities.
Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden)
Come here for an incredible museum full of artefacts from
the masters of the Golden Age. The old centre of Leiden is
also beautiful and worth a look. The city is about a 40-minute train ride from Amsterdam.
Rotterdam
Schiphol is one of the busiest airports in the world, while
Rotterdam is home to the worlds busiest harbour. Football
champions Ajax have been sparring with Feyenoord for
decades and while Amsterdam lives on its charming medieval buildings, Rotterdam was completely rebuilt after
it was nearly levelled by bombs in WWII. If youre tired of
touristy Amsterdam and crave the sight of a large city with
a modern skyline, then Rotterdam is the only option in the
Netherlands. Take the high speed Fyra train from Amsterdam to Rotterdam in only 41 minutes.
Photo courtesy of the Alkmaar Cheese Market
Photo courtesy of Zaanse Schans
Sint Janskerk (Maastricht)

If you really want to travel as far from the city as possible
without leaving the country then take a train all the way
to the hilly south of the country where you can witness the
pretty sights of Maastricht among its beer-loving residents.
The reddish Gothic Sint Janskerk is the citys main highlight,
but there are loads of other things to see like Roman forts
(Fort Sint Pieter) and busy squares full of cafs.
Utrecht
If you cant get enough of the cute bunny drawings of Dick
Bruna, the Miffy (Nijntje) Museum in Utrecht is the place
to go. If not, youll almost certainly be annoyed by the small
children and the flocks of Japanese tourists here. The city
is also famous for its Roman beginnings, its incredibly tall
church spire and its unique wharf cellars. Trains to Utrecht
depart Amsterdam frequently.
Volendam
The place where all the great Dutch singers are born, Volendam is basically a town of fishermen and boatloads of tourists wanting a taste of real Dutch culture. You can dress up
in traditional costumes here or wander about its beautiful
streets. Take bus No.116 from the Central Station to Volendam. The trip takes about 30 minutes.
Zaanse Schans (Zaandam)
But where are all the windmills? If youve asked this question in Amsterdam, youre not the only one. In fact, Amsterdam doesnt have that many and you wont find any in the
centre of town. We recommend a trip to Zaanse Schans,
where youll have plenty of opportunities to spot one of
Hollands most endearing symbols. Youll have to deal with
crowds though as the well-preserved windmills and tra
ditional houses here attract almost a million visitors every
year. Connexxion bus No.391 departs from the Amsterdam
Central Station every hour during the day. The trip takes
about 40 minutes. You can also take a train to Koog-Zaandijk
station and then walk 15 minutes to Zaanse Schans.
Venue index
Abraxas 30
Akhnaton 24
Allard Pierson
Museum 38
Alto Jazz Caf 26
Ambassade Hotel
50
Amnesia 30
Amsterdam Canal
Cruises 36
Amsterdam Central
Public Library 42
Amsterdam
Museum 38
Amsterdam Seed
Center 33
Amsterdam Tulip
Museum 38
Anne Frank House
38
Artis Royal Zoo 42
Backstage Hotel
Amsterdam 53
Badhuis Javaplein
14
Bagels & Beans 10
Balls 27
Barneys 31
Bazar 15
B&B All in the family
52
Bed & Guide
Amsterdam 52
Beer Temple
21
Beurs van Berlage
18
Biblos 20
Bird 17
Bluebird 31
Bourbon Street 26
Brandstof 20
Brewers Canal 42
Brooklyn Hotel 51
Brouwerij De Prael
35
Brouwerij t IJ
22
Brouwerij t IJ
35
Bubbles & Wines 27
Bulldog No. 90 31
Bulldog Palace 31
Burgermeester 11
Caf Americain 19
Caf Belgique 21
Caf Brandon 22
Caf Casablanca 26
Caf Chris
23
Caf de Klos
10
Caf de Koe
20
Caf de Zwart 18, 19
Caf Eik en Linde 23
Caf Emmelot 20
Caf George
18
Caf Kobalt
18
Caf Koosje
19
Caf Kuijper
18
Cafe Lellebel
28
Caf Papeneiland
23
Caf Proust
14
Caf Scheltema 19
Caf Schiller
19
Caf Sonneveld 18
Caf Sound Garden
20
Caf Thijssen
27
Caffe Milo
18
Canal Bus
36
Casa Rosso
24
Chambre Boot 53
Club-8 22
Club Church
28
Club Escape
24
Club Up
24
Coffeeshop 36 31
Conscious Hotel
Museum Square 52
Coster Diamonds 39
Daar Baand
14
Dapperstraat
Market 42
De 2 Grieken
13
De Bakkerswinkel
15
De Bierfabriek 22
De Bijenkorf
Kitchen 11
De Italiaan
14
De Keu
22
De Koffie Salon 12
De Pilsener Club 23
De Pizzabakkers 16
De Ponteneur 14
De Spiegel
16
Diamant Museum
Amsterdam 39
Dolphins 32
Door 74
25
DoubleTree by
Hilton Hotel
Amsterdam
Centraal Station 50
Drink n Sink
20
Durgerdam 42
Dvars 25
EasyHotel
Amsterdam
Ferdinand Bolstraat
53
Easy Times
32
Eden Amsterdam
Manor Hotel
50
Erotic Museum
Amsterdam 34
Espresso Hotel City
Centre 52
EYE Film Institute
43
FEBO 16
Fenan Klein Afrika

10
Flower Market 43
FOAM: Photography
Museum
Amsterdam 39
Frenzi Cucina 14
Gay Tourist
Information Centre
28
Golden Brown Bar
17
Gollems Proeflokaal
21
Grasshopper 32
Gray Line
36
Greenhouse
Centrum 32
Glloglu 17
Hermitage
Amsterdam 39
Het Grachtenhuis
39
Het Karbeel
13
Het Ketelhuis 48
Holland Casino 23
Hortus Botanical
Gardens 41
Hotel Iron Horse 52
Hotel Leidse Square
Amsterdam 52
Hotel Mosaic
52
Hotel The Exchange
51
Hotel Vondel
51
House of Bols
Cocktail and
Genever Experience
36
Ibssa 13
In de Olofspoort 26
In de Wildeman 21
Jewish Historical
Museum 37
Kamasutra 13
Kantjil & de Tijger
14
Katsu 32
Keramiek Atelier
Marjoke de Heer 47
Kwekkeboom 10
La Tertulia
32
Librije Zusje
17
Lion of Judah 32
Los Pilones
15
Louis Bar
21
Lux 21
Madame Tussauds
Amsterdam 35
Magic 33
Manneken Pis 13
Mata Hari
18
Merkur Casino 23
Molly Malones 25
Mulliners
Wijnlokaal 27
Museum of Bags
and Purses
40
Museum of the
Tropics 40
Nachttheater Sugar
Factory 24
Nam Kee
12
National Maritime
Museum
Amsterdam 40
National
Monument 43
New King
12
NH Grand Hotel
Krasnapolsky 50
NL-Hotel
Leidseplein 51
Noon 33
Noorderkerk 36
NYX 28
Old Church
33
Onder de Ooievaar
23
Paradox 33
Park Hotel
Amsterdam 50
Pink Point &
Homomonument
28
Plan B
22
Planet Rose
15
Players 27
Portuguese
Synagogue 37
Prik 28
Proeflokaal De
Ooievaar 26
Proeflokaal de Prael
22
Ranara 16
Reality 29
Red Light Secrets 35
Rembrandt Statue
43
Renaissance
Amsterdam Hotel
50
Resin 33
Rijksmuseum 34
Rodizio 11
Royal Palace
Amsterdam 40
Sandton Hotel De
Filosoof 51
Satellite Sports Caf
27
Science Center
NEMO
40, 54
SkyLounge 25
Skyy Bar
25
Snow Lion
17
Solo 33
Spang Makandra 17
Stayokay
Amsterdam
Zeeburg 53
Stedelijk Museum
41
St. Francis Xavier
Church 37
Studio 2
12
Super Skunk
33
Taboo 29
Teddys Corner 12
Temple Bar
25
The Bananen Bar &
Club 24
The Butcher
11
The Dockworker 43
The Flying Pig
Uptown Hostel
Amsterdam 53
The Little Darling 43
The Mexican
15
The Mint Tower 36
The Movies
48
The Old Church 34
The Pancake Bakery
16
The Parrot: Church
of Sts. Peter and
Paul 37
The Pool Hole 22
The Rembrandt
House Museum 34
Thermos Sauna 29
The Waterhole 26
t Lieverdje
12
Tonys NY City
Bagels 10
Toro Dorado
16
Tourist Inn
53
Tuschinski Theatre
36
Van Gogh Museum
34
Van Loon Museum
41
Vivelavie 29
Waterlooplein 43
Weber 21
Wertheim Park 42
Westerkerk 37
Westerpark 42
Whiskycaf L&B 27
Winston Kingdom
24
World Fashion
Apartments 53
Wynand Fockink 26
Yamazato 15
Zuid Zeeland 13
Autumn 2015
59

Amsterdam in Your Pocket

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Amsterdam in Your Pocket

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Film screenings, rock

Spas, sports and other useful information

Beds for backpackers and business executives

Amsterdam for kids

A few words from the editor

Arriving & Getting Around

From steaks and Dutch stamppot to sushi

Hipster hangouts and coffee houses

Bars, pubs and clubs

A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam

Where to smoke responsibly

Museums, churches and the like

Cheese markets, canals and windmills

Getting to grips with Amsterdam

List of small features

Maps & Index

Sales & Circulation

This issues cover photo was

4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

Our new digital platform, online at

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving & Getting Around

Youll find all kinds of characters in Amsterdam

6 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around

Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central

AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL

Finding a place to park your bike can be a chore

New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)

Talk about your basics... This is a urinal

The Netherlands adopted the euro as its currency in 2002.

8 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

CITY CENTRE TOUR

FENAN KLEIN AFRIKA

A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning

U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace

COFFEE & TEA

Queue up for traditional frites

14 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

Courageous eaters should try the local herring

THE PANCAKE BAKERY

The Dutch have made snacking much easier

16 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

GOLDEN BROWN BAR

Spend time in a classic decades-old caf

18 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

What could be more inviting than a local brown bar?

20 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

Give in to temptation this autumn

22 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

BOCK BEER FESTIVAL

CASINOS & GAMBLING

24 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

RED LIGHT STREETS

ALTO JAZZ CAF

Lift your spirits with a local beverage

26 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

DOCUMENTARY FILM FEST

Amsterdams elegible bachelors at Prik

28 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

BET VAN BEERENS CAF

U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace