Final Report

Apparel Internship Report 2010
Orchid Overseas Pvt. Ltd. 128, Udyog Vihar Phase-1 Gurgaon
Submitted by:
Akash Anand-70770600002 Rajil Mittal-70770600018 DFT 2007-2011 NIFT Gandhinagar
Under the guidance of:

Mr. Rajeev Srivastava (Industrial mentor, Prod. Executive At Orchid Overseas) Ms. Nupur Chopra (College mentor, Asst. Professor, DFT, NIFT Gandhinagar)
Apparel Internship Report 2010 ORCHID OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED AKASH ANAND & RAJIL MITTAL DFT 2007-2011 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
Acknowledgement
We take this opportunity to thank everyone who helped me in successfully completing this internship. We extend my gratitude to Mr. Rajeev Srivastava (Production executive) who was also our industry mentor, Mr. Pradeep Khatri (Factory Manager, Orchid Overseas pvt. Ltd.), Mr. Nikhil Pal (pre production head) for giving us an invaluable support throughout our internship. We express our gratitude to Ms. Amisha Mehta (Course coordinator Department of fashion Technology, NIFT Gandhinagar) for her guidance during the training period. We would also like to express our gratitude to Mr. Pranav Vora who provided us with invaluable input on textiles and helped us with our project on the four point system. We heartily thank our college mentor Ms. Nupur Chopra (Asst. Professor DFT, NIFT Gandhinagar) for her immense support, guidance and understanding throughout our term of the internship. Last but not the least we would also thank the almighty God, our parents, our friends and all those who were directly or indirectly related in the completion of our internship successfully.
Preface
This document is a brief description of the processes and terms followed at Orchid Overseas Pvt. Ltd. 128, Udyog Vihar, Phase 1, Gurgaon. The document has been divided into different chapters, each chapter corresponding to the different departments of the industry. The chapters have further been divided into sections which may be explained as follows Introduction- this section gives a small description of the department Literature survey- it is of two types o Primary survey- this relates to all the theories that are there related to the department. o Secondary survey- this includes all our observations and the knowledge we gained out of the industry. Records maintained in the department Process flow Questionnaire that we prepared for our convenience
This document also contains a detailed study of a style that we were asked to track and follow. This tracking includes everything from time study to line balancing, from sampling to finishing of the style.
COMPANY PROFILE
ORCHID OVERSEAS PVT. LTD.
Year of establishment: June 1995
Address: ORCHID OVERSEAS, 128, UDYOG VIHAR, PHASE I , GURGAON-122001 HARYANA
Annual turnover: Rs.10 cr.
Ownership: RAJIV BAL
Monthly production capacity: 1.2 LAC GARMENTS
No. Of employees: 500
BRIEF PROFILE
Orchid overseas was set up in 1995, to manufacture "HIGH FASHION GARMENTS for the international market. The owner of the company is RAJIV BAL, brother of designer ROHIT BAL. ORCHID OVERSEAS (P) LTD, are currently engaged in the manufacture of ladies/men's apparel essentially for European and North American markets. Total group sales turnover for current year 2005-2006 is INR 10 Crores Of this apparel accounted for INR.
PEOPLE INVOLVED: They believe that their people are their most important resource. The supervisory and management team consists of a young team of garment technologies/merchandisers.
The top management team consists of the promoters of the company: T. Ganeshan, 55 years CEO (orchid overseas) Pradeep Khatri, 45 years Factory manager (orchid overseas)
PRODUCT RANGE
They make various products for men as well as ladies but the area of specialization is in High fashion shirts along with ladies embellishment tops and blouses.
CLIENTS
They work with several international brands which are known world over for the quality of their merchandise. The factory has been evaluated and approved for production by well known brands as: Esprit Paul smith Deben hamus Benetton George Next Marco polo Jenson
INDEX
Chapter 1 Merchandising 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Literature survey 1.2.1 Primary survey 1.2.2 Secondary survey 1.2.2(a) Costing 1.2.2(b) Preparation of BOM 1.2.2(c) Approvals 1 2 3 3 8 11 13 13
1.2.2(d) Preparation of the order file and maintenance of the same 14 1.2.2(e) Procurement of materials 1.2.2(f) Issue of materials to the fabric department 1.2.2(g) Pre production meeting 1.2.2(h) Production monitoring 1.2.2(i) Order completion report 1.3 Records maintained/merchandisers package file 1.4 Process flow 1.5 Questionnaire 14 15 16 17 19 20 22 24
Chapter 2 fabric store 2.1 Introduction 2.2 Literature survey 2.2.1 Primary survey 2.2.1.1 Inspection procedures 2.2.1.2 Four point system for fabric checking 2.2.1.3 Different types of defects 2.2.1.4 Shade banding 2.2.2 Secondary survey 2.2.2.1 Department statistics 2.2.2.2 Vendors 2.2.2.3 Some general procedures 2.2.2.3.1 Fabric store process control procedure 2.2.2.3.2 Shrinkage test 2.2.2.3.3 The dyeing process 2.2.2.3.4 Color fastness test
26 27 28 28 30 30 31 32 33 33 34 35 35 36 36 37
2.2.2.3.5 Points to be ensured before the fabric is discharged to the production 37 2.2.2.3.6 Other observations 2.2.2.4 Capacity calculation 2.4 Records maintained 2.5 Process flow 2.6 Problems observed 38 39 40 41 42
Chapter 3 accessories store 3.1 Introduction 3.2 Literature survey 3.2.1 Primary survey 3.2.1.1 Functions of the trims store 3.2.1.2 Units for Measurement of Accessories 3.2.1.3 Trim store process control procedure 3.2.1.4 Types of trims stored in the department are: 3.2.1.4.1 Standard strengths for threads 3.2.1.4.2 Button performance 3.2.1.4.3 Wash care Label details 3.2.2 Secondary survey 3.2.2.1 Goods procurement procedure 3.2.2.2 Vendors 3.2.2.3 Trims inspection 3.2.2.4 Other accessories in the store 3.2.2.5 Some general procedures 3.2.2.6 Infrastructure 3.3 Reports maintained 3.4 Process flow 3.5 Questionnaire
43 44 45 45 46 47 48 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 59 62 64 65 68 69
Chapter 4 spreading and cutting 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Literature survey 4.2.1 Primary survey 4.2.1.1 Spreading quality 4.2.1.2 Marker placing 4.2.2 Secondary survey 4.2.2.1 Cut Order Planning 4.2.2.2 Order Assignments 4.2.2.3 Fabric Requisition and Stores Procedures 4.2.2.4 Sub Storing Procedure 4.2.2.5 Lay Planning 4.2.2.6 Spreading Activity 4.2.2.7 How to handle bowing? 4.2.2.8 Quality controller 4.2.2.9 Roles of a Spreader 4.2.2.10 Cutting Activity 4.2.2.11 Block cutting/re-cutting 4.3 Department statistics 4.3.1 Cutting machine 4.3.2 Sharpening abrasive belt 4.3.3 Tables for spreading and cutting 4.3.3.4 Department hierarchy 4.3.3.5 Some general observations 4.4 Records maintained 4.5 Process flow 4.6 Questionnaire
71 72 73 73 74 75 76 76 77 79 79 79 80 82 83 84 86 87 88 88 88 89 89 90 92 93 95
Chapter 5 sorting and bundling 5.1 Introduction 5.2 Literature survey 5.2.1 Primary survey 5.2.2 Secondary survey 5.2.2.1 General observations 5.3 Records maintained 5.4 Process flow 5.5 Questionnaire
98 99 100 100 102 102 105 106 107
Chapter 6 sampling 6.1 Introduction 6.2 Literature survey 6.2.1 Primary survey 6.2.2 Secondary survey 6.2.2.1 Pattern making for sampling
108 109 110 110 112 112
6.2.2.1(a) Basic requirements for pattern development 112 6.2.2.2 Standard operating procedures 6.2.2.3 Grading in CAD 6.2.2.4 Proto sample making 6.2.2.5 Ensuring the fit 6.2.2.6 Pre production sample 6.2.2.7 Size set 6.2.2.8 Sewing the samples 6.2.2.9 Inputs 6.2.2.10 Quality parameters in sampling 6.2.2.11 Machines 6.2.2.12 some general procedures 6.3 Records maintained 6.4 Process flow 6.5 Questionnaire 113 114 114 114 115 115 115 115 116 116 117 118 120 122
Chapter 7 Pre production planning and R & D 7.1 Introduction 7.2 Literature survey 7.2.1 Primary survey 7.2.2 Secondary survey 7.2.2.1 Production and control activities 7.2.2.1.1 Production report 7.2.2.1.2 Billing report 7.2.2.1.3 Shift wise production report 7.2.2.1.4 Line wise WIP Report 7.2.2.1.5 Management review report 7.2.2.1.6 Finishing WIP Report 7.2.2.1.7 Dispatch report 7.2.2.1.8 Embroidery report 7.2.2.1.9 Factory report of the month 7.2.2.1.10 Reports comprise of 7.2.2.2 Planning 7.2.2.3 R & D of a style 7.2.2.4 Devising new methods 7.2.2.3.1 Jugaad 7.3 Records maintained 7.4 Process flow 7.4.1 Pre production 7.4.2 R & D
123 124 125 125 127 127 127 127 127 127 128 128 128 128 128 129 130 131 133 133 134 135 135 136
Chapter 8 finishing and packing 8.1 Introduction 8.2 Literature survey 8.2.1 Primary survey 8.2.1.1 Finishing and packaging 8.2.1.2 Standards in Finishing department 9.2.2 Secondary survey 8.2.2.1 Button marking & Attachment 8.2.2.2 Thread trimming 8.2.2.3 General checking and mending 8.2.2.4 Spotting 8.2.2.5 Loose threads 8.2.2.6 Measurement 8.2.2.7 Pressing 8.2.2.8 Measurement after pressing 8.2.2.9 checking of marks 8.2.2.10 Final Inspection 8.2.2.11 Folding 8.2.2.12 Needle Detecting 8.2.2.13 Tagging 8.2.2.14 Polybag packaging 8.2.2.15 Size sorting and carton packing 8.2.2.16 Problems due to finishing 8.2.2.17 Trims used in finishing 8.2.2.18 hierarchy 8.2.2.19 packing parameters 8.2.2.20 Hanger packing 8.3 Records maintained 8.4 Process flow 8.4.1 Finishing 8.4.2 Packaging 8.5 Questionnaire
138 139 140 140 140 141 142 142 142 142 143 143 144 144 144 144 144 144 145 145 145 146 146 147 147 148 149 150 151 151 153 155
Chapter 9 quality 9.1 Introduction 9.2 Literature survey 9.2.1 Primary survey 9.2.1.1 General checkpoints 9.2.2 Secondary survey 9.2.2.1 Work instruction 9.2.2.1.1 Fabric audit 9.2.2.1.2 Cut parts inspection 9.2.2.1.3 End line checking 9.2.2.1.4 Basic quality flaws due to stitching 9.2.2.1.5 Audit 9.2.2.1.6 Filter points 9.2.2.1.7 Re checking 9.2.2.1.8 Post pressing inspection 9.2.2.1.9 Online audit 9.2.2.1.10 Inspection points 9.3 Records maintained 9.4 Process flow 9.5 Questionnaire
157 158 159 159 159 161 161 161 162 162 163 164 164 164 165 165 166 167 168 169
Chapter10 Pattern making and CAD 10.1 Introduction 10.2 Literature survey 10.2.1 Primary survey 10.2.1.1 Pattern making 10.2.1.2 CAD 10.2.2 Secondary survey
170 171 172 172 172 172 173
10.2.2.1 Requirements of the pattern making and the CAD department 174 10.2.2.2 Documents maintained 10.2.2.3 Software used 10.2.2.4 Digitizer 10.2.2.4.1 Process of digitizing 10.2.2.5 Grading 10.2.2.6 Cut order planning 10.2.2.7 Marker making 10.2.2.8 Plotter 10.3 Records maintained 10.4 Process flow 174 175 175 176 177 177 178 179 180 181
Chapter 11 maintenance 11.1 Introduction 11.2 Literature survey 11.2.1 Primary survey 11.2.1.1 Maintenance 11.2.1.1.1 Functions on the department 11.2.1.2 Service 11.2.1.3 Machine maintenance 11.2.1.3.a Breakdown maintenance 11.2.1.3.b Corrective maintenance 11.2.1.3.c Preventive maintenance 11.2.1.3.d Scheduled maintenance 11.2.1.4 Need of maintenance 11.2.2 Secondary survey 11.2.2.1 Maintenance schedule 11.2.2.2 Housekeeping 11.2.2.2.1 Housekeeping schedule 11.2.2.3 Needle handling 11.2.2.3.1 The needle replacement procedure 11.2.2.3.2 Needle control policy
183 184 185 185 185 187 187 187 187 188 188 188 188 189 189 190 190 191 191 192
11.2.2.3.3 Broken needle replacement procedure 193 11.2.2.4 Daily activities of this department include following checking's 11.2.2.5 Following to be checked every 15 days 11.2.2.6 Other activities 11.2.2.7 Machines in the industry 11.3 Records maintained 11.4 Questionnaire 193 194 194 195 197 198
Chapter 12 Industrial engineering 12.1 Introduction 12.2 Literature survey 12.2.1 Primary survey 12.2.2 Secondary survey 12.2.2.1 Responsibilities of the IE department 12.2.2.2 Line balancing
199 200 201 201 208 208 209
12.2.2.2.1 The purpose of production line balancing 209 12.2.2.2.2 Effective line balancing or planning depends on 211 12.2.2.3 Line setting 12.2.2.4 I.E. and necessities 211 212
Chapter 13 sewing 13.1 Introduction 13.2 Literature survey 13.2.1 Primary survey 13.2.1.1 Standard operating procedure in production department 13.2.1.2 Quality process in sewing line. 13.2.1.3 Requirements of sewing section 13.2.2 Secondary survey 13.2.2.1 Style analysis and line plan 13.2.2.2 Pre production meeting 13.2.2.3 Order planning 13.2.2.4 Order planning in the factory 13.2.2.5 Production system 13.2.2.5.1The progressive bundle system 13.2.2.6 Batch setting procedure 13.2.2.7 Bulk production 13.2.2.8 Material handling equipment 13.2.2.9 The layout 13.2.2.10 General observations at the floor 13.2.2.11 Problems encountered 13.3 Records maintained 13.4 Process flow 13.5 Questionnaire
213 214 215 215 215 216 216 218 218 218 218 219 220 220 222 223 223 224 224 226 226 228 229
Chapter 14 style study 14.1 About the style 14.1.1 Sample worksheet 14.1.2 Specifications for sewing of the garment 14.2 Bill of materials 14.3 Measurement chart 14.4 Operation breakdown 14.5 Time study 14.5.1 Spreading 14.5.2 Cutting 14.5.3 Sewing 14.6 Method study 14.7 The line plan 14.8 Cut order planning 14.9 Order tracking 14.10 Costing
232 233 234 235 236 237 238 241 242 242 243 262 273 275 276 277
Chapter 15 Appendix 15.1 Alteration report 15.2 Visual inspection report 15.3 Size set/ Pilot/Initial 10 Pcs visual report 15.4 Broken needle investigation report 15.5 Fabric challan 15.6 Fabric inspection report 15.7 Issue slip 15.8 Preventive maintenance (Monthly) 15.9 Preventive maintenance (Weekly) 15.10 Weekly maintenance schedule for fusing machine 15.11 Weekly maintenance of steam press 15.12 AQL auditing report 15.16 Broken needle record 15.17 Costing sheet 15.18 Daily cutting report 15.19 Daily finishing report 15.20 End line checking 15.21 Metal detector product log 15.22 Needle detector calibrations 15.23 OCR Production 15.24 Stitching inspection report 15.25 Style analysis report 15.26 Used needle record 15.27 Visual inspection report 15.28 Layouts 15.28.1 Production floor layout 15.28.2 Process flow 15.28.3 Finishing 15.28.4 Cutting 15.29 Mini markers
279 280 281 282 283 284 285 286 287 287 288 288 289 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 303 304 305 306 307
Learning experience Bibliography
308 309
Chapter 1 Merchandising
Apparel Internship Report 2010 ORCHID OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED AKASH ANAND & RAJIL MITTAL, DFT (2007-2011) National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
1.1 Introduction
Merchandising is the central part of garment manufacturing company. Merchandising is vital from the buyer sourcing to the delivery of the products. The main role of merchandiser in a production unit is to fulfill the needs of buyers by coordinating with the manufacturing departments. His work is to balance the quality price and delivery simultaneously with proper co-ordination, supervision and control. Thus a merchandiser is a fulcrum of the organization that involves coordinating and follow-up against tight schedules merchandising department is involved throughout the process at each and every step from getting the order, to the shipment of the order. Merchandising is the focal point of activity in this company. It is the responsibility of a merchandiser to for all the milestone activities with regard to processing of an order viz. Sampling, bulk approvals, ordering fabrics, ordering trims and accessories, getting sample approvals, fabric and garment testing, shipment sample submissions, production, inspection, packaging and dispatch. When an order is received the first and main step is the calculation of the cost of the garment. The merchandiser prepares invoice. An invoice is a tender which is sent to the buyer which contains the details about the buyers name, address, price quotation, terms of payment, credit or open account etc.
1.2 Literature survey

1.2.1 Primary survey
The whole merchandising process in an organization can be summarized into two major area of Pre order confirmation Post order confirmation
Pre order confirmation
The pre order confirmation process includes Receipt of enquiry and its handling enquiry/developments: The whole merchandising process starts when the merchandiser receives enquiries from different buyers. The new enquiry is fed into the sample status report which is used for reference later. Review of enquiry: The enquiry received is reviewed in depth before sending any response to the buyer. The review done taking into consideration factors like capacity, available resources, machinery etc. 1. Quoting the price: The enquiry received is either in the form of tech pack or reference garment. On the basis of these the costing is done. Cost sheet is prepared by the merchandiser .This costing is done based on many parameters like Material to be used for the garment : The material used includes fabric and trims .The fabric department provides the cost of the fabric ,when given inputs like fabric quality, design, order quantity and kinds of tests required (if any) . The same procedure applies to the trims section. They are provided details like name of suppliers, order quantity etc.
Construction/style: The pattern and the CAD department provide the estimated fabric and trims consumption. The merchandiser gives details related to construction, style, sample (if any), fabric details, fabric design etc. Pre stitching and post stitching processes Packing details CMP: For the calculation of the CMP the SAM value of the garment is required. This is calculated by the IE department on the basis of enquiry sent, order quantity and the fabric details. The IE department also provides the GSD target.
The CMP is calculated keeping in mind the target to attain 50% SAM value. Testing costs: if there is the requirement of any special kind of test for trims of the fabric then the merchandiser takes the testing costs also while cost quoting. Any other process involved.
Post order confirmation
After the order is confirmed the order handling processes start, which are as follows: Order review and planning: After the order confirmation the order is reviewed all over again to make proper planning for the order processing. This will include making a T & A, which is approved by the buyer. This T&A is strictly followed on the day to day basis. Material procurement: The concerned merchandiser makes the Bill of Material and orders the material required for the PO through the purchase departments. The fabric is ordered first and then the trims. The merchandiser keeps following up the material procurement process so that materials are received before the production starts. The
approval/rejection of the material [quality/shade/color] is done by the merchandiser based on the buyers requirements and standards. Sampling: The samples are made in the sampling department as per the buyers requirement. The sampling indents are issued and the samples are made accordingly .These samples are then dispatched to the buyers for confirmation after inspection. The proto sample is made in the sampling department where else other samples like FIT, size set and PP samples are made in the technical department. Issue of work order for production and production follow-up: the
concerned merchandiser issues the work order to the production unit. The PP meetings are held at the production units where the merchandiser clears all the details of the order and state the requirement of the buyer [quality wise]. The merchandiser visits the production units regularly to know about the status of the order and to check whether all the details mentioned in the tech pack are being followed. The inspection dates for initial, mid and final inspection is decided upon and informed to the buyer.
Shipment of the order: The shipment procedure is handled by the merchandiser. The documents related to the order dispatch are made by the merchandiser. Other issues like vessel booking, flight booking issue of invoice are handled by the concerned merchandiser. The merchandiser makes sure that the order is dispatched on the right time and there is no undue delay.
Objectives: Organize and follow up for smooth production of the garments as per pre determined time frame(TnA) To ensure that order processing of merchandise is well within the costing parameter. To ensure the feasibility of order processing keeping the companys infrastructure limitations and the time frame before accepting the order. Garment styling- is the production unit equipped with the necessary machineries to produce the same, if yes how feasible it is in mass production. Sourcing- How fast and easily can we source the material?
The above decisions should be taken in accordance with the seniors of the respective departments. Once the order is confirmed with the buyer the merchandiser needs to work on the following points. Keeping the garment delivery date in mind he needs to check with the IE department for the lead time required for the mass production based on the garment styling and if any other processes involved like embroidery/printing/washing etc and then with the Pre-Production department for the availability of production slots with respect to the garment delivery date. Also
the time required in getting the fabric and trims in house. Once it is done the next step is to work on the time and action plan. (T&A). The action plan shall include all activities right from the activity of order confirmation (first activity) till the date on which the goods are shipped out and export department receives a copy of export invoice and OCR (Order Completion Report) is prepared. Merchandiser shall regularly monitor T & A in order to ensure that activities are taking place within the laid out time frame. If specific dates are not met for the reasons whatever it may be it shall be discussed with concerned and if required buyer should be intimated/contacted for extension of date.
Once the TnA is finalized the copy of the same should be send to the below departments:
Export Department- To make the necessary arrangement for shipping of goods. Production Planning Department- To plan and allot the production slots. Sampling department- To plan the sampling schedules from first fit to final sealed garment. Head Office Quality Department- To plan the activities of Quality Checkers for visiting various production units. Buyer- To keep them informed and updated on plan and action of execution of the order.
Note- The T & A shall be updated to all the concerned on regular interval of time as per the company/ buyer requirement.
1.2.2
Secondary survey
The main responsibilities and the working style of the merchandisers are:
Each of the merchandiser is given a particular buyer, a specific region to deal with. The concerned merchandiser will have to coordinate with the head office regarding the order of his buyer.
Merchandiser has to see whether a particular style is doable or not. This includes both the fabric as well as the garments many a times it happens that the particular style is not possible to do in the company and may be the garment can be made but the fabric is not possible to do in the company, then they are not in a position to take the order. So this is a very important detail which has to be seen at the very first stage of the order.
Merchandiser has to supervise all the activities related to his order like yarn, fabric, embellishments, trims threads etc.
Merchandiser has to follow the sample & sample approvals. The salesman sample is prepared and it is sent to the buyer for the approval. If these samples are approved then they proceed with the shipment date settlement, which are to be decided with the agreement of both the parties. In the meantime the L/C is opened for the buyer.
If the sample is not approved then buyer tells the company as to what changes are to be made and then a fresh sample is prepared which is sent to the buyer again for approval. Once the order is confirmed and the fabric is available he coordinates the cutting and other preparatory requirements.
Merchandiser gives the complete instruction sheet to the cutting, sewing, finishing departments so that they strictly follow the specifications of the buyer.
Merchandiser has also to see the factor of the price, which is very important for both the customer as well as the company. The customer tells the price and the company sees whether that is ok to the company or not, if not then the company quotes its own price and then all the dealings are carried out till the final price is set according to the agreement of both the parties.
Merchandisers ask for PO or the Purchase Order from the buyer. PO is a detailed account of what the buyer wants in the product, it includes the details like: Buyers name Style Shipment date Companys name Details of the garment Order size Fabric to be used All the measurements Vendors from where the trims are to be sourced
Merchandisers also receive bill of material (BOM) from the specific buyers like PAUL SMITH, who has a fixed vendor for sourcing of raw materials. it has details like:
Style Season Item code Item Vendor name Vendor address
Sales order entry is given to the garmenting, which contains details like:
Fabric required Quantity Size Color etc.
10
1.2.2(a) Costing
All direct indirect costs, all material and labour cost, negotiation margin, profit margin is kept into mind before the cost of a garment is finalized and proposed to the buyer by the merchandiser.
The costing is done in regards to CMTP that is Cut, make, trims and packaging. It also includes the fabric and embellishments cost. A cost sheet is used for this purpose. Costing in merchandising department
Fabric cost Fabric Type Yarn Count Collar
Cutting cost Cutting charge
Making cost Lockstitch Overlock Flatlock Folding/binding Shell stitch Thread Thread cutting
11
Trims cost Main label Twill tape Care label Tag Jtag Tape Side label
Finishing/packaging cost Washing Pressing Price tag Kimble Packing material Carton Truck to madras
Embellishments cost Woven patch Printing Sequence Embroidery
12
1.2.2(b) Preparation of Bill of material (BOM)
Details of all fabrics/trims/accessories involved in the garment. A copy of the same should go to the fabric/material department along with garment order quantity details, consumption, requirement and in house dates. In turn it is the responsibility of these two departments to co-ordinate with the merchandiser and the supplier and make sure of the receipt of the materials as per the in house dates confirmed and inform the merchandiser on receipt of material with complete details of the materials received. However, merchandiser need to co-ordinate with accounts/finance department to ensure on supplier payments particularly when it is an advance payment or opening a Letter of Credit for the imported materials.
1.2.2(c) Approvals From lab dips/desk looms of fabric and all trims/ accessories approvals to be taken from buyer before placing the bulk order and a proper documentation of the same for any time ready reference.
THREAD REQUIREMENT WORKING APPROVALS:
Thread approval depends on the type of client for which the production is going on. Few clients prefer thread approvals to be taken from them by sending those options of thread panels and with some clients they get liberty of self-decision on thread matching but it is to be made sure that the thread that is selected is right in terms of color/quality/thickness. The thread consumption and requirement are taken from the Industrial Engineering department based on the type of operations and length of seams so that no extra thread is ordered as it would add up to the cost and if ordered short the production would be affected particularly when the threads are dye to match.
13
1.2.2(d) Preparation of order file and maintenance of the same
The most important responsibility of the merchandiser is preparation of order file and updating/maintenance of the same in a way so that the details are clear and easily accessible at any point of time.
1.2.2(e) Procurement of materials
Once the consumption of raw materials are finalized and the purchase order is raised for the materials as per the requirement and a copy of the same should go to the respective material/purchase departments for their follow up with supplier and cross check the materials on receipt with respect to quantities ordered. IMPORTANT POINT: It is advisable to check with the stores before placing the order for any stock availability so that the same can be avoided from ordering.
14
1.2.2(f) Issue of materials to the fabric department
FABRIC ISSUE:
Merchandiser shall issue fabric indent/fabric issue note to the fabric department based on the final approved consumptions to the fabric department authorizing them to issue the fabric to the production unit without which the fabric should not be issued to production unit. Also ensure that the production unit is provided consumption details to follow any deviation in consumption, factory should proceed only with concern of the respective merchandiser. This entire process also applies to any other trim that has a Unit of Measurement of running length including thread.
CHECK POINTS ON RECEIPT OF MATERIALS
It should be made sure that the Quality and the quantity report of the materials should be received along with the samples from the respective department so that the supplier is contacted immediately for any shortage/defect materials and get it arranged as soon as possible.
CUSTOMS REQUIRED:
Merchandiser shall provide order quantity details/price etc along with consumption details to export department for the imported raw materials so as to make consumption statement for customs.
15
1.2.2(g) Pre production meeting
Check points before pre-production meeting: Material ordered/in-house + sample in hand +production is feasible. This meeting is to inform the factory about the order that is going to be run next on the line.
CONDUCTING PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING
This should be conducted in the allocated production unit at least before 2-3 days before the commencement of production in presence of the below: Merchandiser handling the style- To explain the complete details of the style/order. Technician from sampling unit- Responsible and involved during the entire process of the garment making from the first fit to the final sealed garment to explain/clarify technical details/feasibility details. Production executives of the Unit- Production in charge/floor in charge(batch supervisor)/Cutting in charge/ finishing in charge/Quality Auditor in charge/ Production Co-ordination Department/ Buyer representation(To understand complete details of the style requirement) Merchandiser shall ensure that all the details/queries of production unit are clarified during the meeting itself or at least by the next day. The approved sample in actual along with the sample made by the unit for pre-production meeting should be displayed during the meeting and ensure that the complete process of garment making is clear with everybody and also the plan for production commitment to be taken from the unit like date of commencement/on line/mid line/final inspection/ delivery date/shipment sample etc. Fabric department/Materials department- To check on the materials flow quality/quantity/approval/issues.
16
1.2.2(h) Production monitoring
Production file:Once all the approvals are received from the buyer, merchant shall issue production file to the respective departments as per the companys requirements when it comes to number of copies. The production file has to be released at least 7 days in advance of the planned Production Cut Date.
Production monitoring:Merchandiser along with head office production co-ordination department shall closely monitor the production process and ensure that it is moving as per the stipulated time and shall help the unit in sorting out any issues cropping up during the production if required with the help of buyer Quality Auditor/merchandiser.
Final inspection by buyer Q.A. :Merchandiser should be in close touch with the factory and arrange for buyer Quality Auditor for final inspection.
17
Production tracking for excess/short shipment :EXCESS GARMENT - After receipt of actual quantity of raw materials and reports from respective departments if there is any chance for extra garment the same should be planned at least on or before completion of 50% of production so that the continuity of the production does not affect and inform all the respective departments for the same for necessary amendments of documents and etc. SHORT SHIPMENT- Advisable to keep track at regular interval of times on the production status for both quality and material requirement to see that if there is any chance of short shipment due to some material problem so that we can work on the possibility of arranging the same to avoid short shipment to maximum extent. If still the product quantity is going beyond buyer tolerance for the reasons whatever it may be it should be informed in time to the buyer tolerance for any clearance and respective departments for necessary amendments.
Shipment :-
After completion of production and final inspection passed the unit shall forward packing slip details to advise the buyer for export department which is required to advise the buyer and for export department to carry on their further process.
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1.2.2(i) Order completion report
After completion of the order merchandiser shall get an order completion report from all the divisions. This report shall give exact status of order/fabric ordered/ used; accessories ordered/used, garments stitched/shipped etc. If required should concerned to analyze any exceptional/abnormal situation undergone during the order process and work on a solution.
CLOSING OF ORDER
While closing of order merchandiser shall include following information in order to build a database.
Problems faced during order processing and how they are addressed. Problems faced during production and how they are addressed. Problems faced in raw materials /accessories and how they are addressed. Problems faced with external agencies like washing, dyeing, printing, embroidery, special treatment and how they are solved.
Ordered quantity, production quantity rejections and shipped quantities. The report shall be made with all the above details and forward to systems and audit department for updating the data bank.
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1.3
MERCHANDISERS PACKAGE FILE
o List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file. o Tech pack. o CAD marker-costing and factory. o RMR-order wise and summary chart. o Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier. o Confirmation of the trim. o Commercial invoices (C.I.). o Confirmation of the CI from the store. o Order chart from the buyer. o P.O. copies from the buyers. o Fabric order confirmations with approved fabrics swatches. o Time and action calendar of TS for all and also WFX for Triburg orders. o Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that may be required for future references (buyer related). o Mills fabric reports-checking, testing. o Internal fabric reports-checking, testing. o GPT reports. o Buyer approved o Minutes of PP meeting. o Hard copies of in/out mails with respect to production-either with PPD/QA/factory-all concerned and important mails. o Size set-passed comments-(buyers). o Pilot-approval comments. o Internal quality audit reports before final inspection.
Trim card Shade bands Wash swatch/wash mocks Embroidery/printing
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o Packing list. o Invoice received from shipping department at Bombay for the purpose of shipment. o Dispatch details i.e. date LR Number, dispatched to which destination, vehicle number, number of cartons, number of pieces and sending factorys name.
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1.4 Process flow

Get tech pack from the buyer
Discussing order details with the pattern master and QC
Getting pattern made if approved by or else making required changes after discussing with buyer.
Making of first protos and sending them to the buyer for approval.
Receiving comments on first proto and making second proto with changes.
Making of salesman samples with the help of comments on second protos.
continue
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continue
Making of size set samples in accordance with the sales man comments.
Taking approval on size set from the buyer and send it for the QA check, getting it signed by the co. QA head for the sealer sample.
Sending pre-production samples to the buyer.
Handing over of production file and follow up.
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1.5 Questionnaire
1. Who are the buyers? Which country? 2. What are the buying houses and their role? 3. What is the frequency of orders by each buyer? 4. What are the different demands of buyer related to quality and production? 5. How they handle the buyers? 6. What is the frequency of buyer QA visit? 7. How is FOB decided? 8. How costing is done? 9. Who all are responsible in costing of a product? 10. What are the different parameters related to costing? 11. How does wastage effect the costing? 12. How is wastage adjusted in final cost? 13. Who are the vendors and how is a vendor selected? 14. Selected vendors are generally from? 15. What do they supply and how? 16. What is the mode of transportation? Who pay transportation charges? 17. What is the mode of payment and the payment period? 18. Is vendor recommended by buyers? 19. What is outsourcing? 20. What are the different formats used in record management? 21. What is the importance of record management? 22. What is the process flow of merchandising department? 23. How material is managed? 24. How material flow is managed between departments? 25. How inter-department flow of information takes place? 26. How are requisition done? 27. Why do follow ups and feedbacks (buying house interaction) necessary? 28. How are feedbacks of buying houses recorded? 29. What is done after getting the feedback?
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30. How decisions are taken accordingly? 31. What is sampling? How sampling starts? 32. What are the different types of samples? 33. How actual production starts after the sampling? 34. How changes are made according to the buyer requisition? 35. How much time does each process take? 36. What is an order? Different types of order? 37. What are the variations in orders with same buyers? 38. What is the general budget of the order? 39. How is it calculated? 40. What is TNA? What does it include? 41. What is lead time of a order? How is it managed? 42. How material is to be transported ? i. For dyeing ii. For embroidery etc 43. Who is responsible for the transportation of goods? 44. How shipment is managed? 45. What is the process of ordering of materials? 46. How are the average calculated? 47. How is % wastage added? 48. What is the actual amount of order that is placed? 49. What is the form of order? i. Bales ii. Rolls iii. Per piece iv. Per kg etc 50. What if some wastage is unavoidable? 51. What is done in case of maximum rejection? 52. What is done with the remnants? 53. What is role of merchandiser in an export house?
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Chapter 2 Fabric stores
26
2.1 Introduction
The fabric stores department plays an important role from getting the fabric to sending the fabric for cutting and then further in the production department. The merchandiser meets the fabric sourcing department and gives the details of the fabric to be procured for the particular style. The fabric department controls the fabric sourcing from various suppliers and supply of fabric to the various departments at specified time as per requirement. The fabric department does the function of buying of fabric centrally. After the fabric is delivered by the supplier the fabric department performs the function of fabric inspection.
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The fabric department controls the fabric sourcing from various suppliers and supply of fabric to the various departments at specified time as per requirement. The fabric department does the function of buying of fabric centrally. After the fabric is delivered by the supplier the fabric department performs the function of fabric inspection. The fabric department can be basically studied under two major heads: - Fabric Purchase and Fabric Store: - The concerned merchandiser handling a particular order, places the order for the fabric to the supplier. The supplier pack the processed fabric and send the invoice, the payment is made to the supplier on receipt of invoice. The fabric store is informed about the date of receiving the fabric from respective supplier and the details like quantity as well as fabric details.
This department is headed by the Merchandising department. There is a head of department who takes care of the proceedings of the department. The main functions of the department are: Receive the fabric as per BOM Inspect the fabric Conduct shrinkage and colorfastness tests Issue to spreading dept as per plan Receive the end bits
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Type of fabrics stored in the department is: Shell Lining Pocketing Felt Canvas
Fabric Issue for: Production Sample Pieces
Fabric Issue to: Cutting Department Sampling Department
Fabric comes generally in 3 types of Form: 1. Open width fabrics on rolls. 2. Bale 3. Tubular in case of knits.
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2.2.1.1 Inspection procedures
Check for the quality/width of the fabric and the same to be recorded with the roll number. Check for the correctness of the fabric with respect to the fabric with respect to the approved department/strike off/ desk loom. Check for color variations from roll to roll e.g. shade a/ shade b etc. Grouping of the same and a report of the same with details. Fabric defect details. Inspection of the fabric and report of the same basis of four point system. Handling of stretch fabric:
2.2.1.2 Four point system for fabric checking
Up to 3 inches 1 3-6 inches 2 6-9 inches 3 Over 9 inches 4 Holes and openings 0-1 inches 2 Over 1 inches 4
Total defects points per 100 sq. Yard are calculated, and normally those fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 sq. Yard are considered "seconds". However different buyers have their different acceptance criteria.
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2.2.1.3 Different types of defects which may occur in fabric are following
1. Broken pick 2. Stop mark 3. Slub 4. Stain 5. Knot 6. Dye patch 7. Hole 8. Foreign yarn 9. Dye streak 10. Broken end 11. Printing mistake 12. Runner (double pick) 13. Shift print 14. Tiny dot 15. Crease mark 16. Weaving defect 17. Shine mark 18. Color bar 19. Oil mark 20. Water mark 21. Pulled yarn
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2.2.1.4 Shade banding A. None wash programs
1. 100% fabric to be shade banded and shade segregated swatch cards with roll numbers and yardage and it is sent to merchant for approval. 2. Approval shade group cards are available at the fabric stores. 3. Fabric roll segregation is done as per the shade groups approved shade group. Color code stickers fixed and stored at separate areas. 4. Approval shade band reference cards are made available to Cutting department Sewing department Finishing and packaging department Quality assurance department. 5. Shade groups fabric quantities and its cut able ratio is arrived at and intimated to the cutting department/production departments through merchandise
B. Wash programs
1. 100% fabrics to be shade blanketed and the washed shade blanket with roll numbers and yardage and it is send to merchant for approval. 2. Approval shade group cards must be available at the fabric stores. 3. Fabric roll segregation are done as per the shade groups approved shade group. Color code stickers fixed and stored at separate areas. 4. Approval shade band reference cards is available at Cutting department Sewing department Finishing and packaging department Quality assurance department
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2.2.2 Secondary survey

2.2.2.1 Department statistics
Total number of racks which are used for fabric storage is 24 each of which had 3 partitions. Mostly the highest rack had the stock surplus. It also has folding hooks and 3 inspection tables. There is a fabric inspection machine of Ram sons. Rack partition dimensions: o Length = 58.5 o Width = 47.25 o Height = 38 Width of folding hook= 103 cm. Table dimensions : o Length=96.5 o Width=48 o Height=37 Machine specifications RAMSONS TYPE R501 SL NO R50104174 The department has one head, one checker, 2 assistant checkers and 4 helpers.
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2.2.2.2 Vendors
Vendor form Place Fabrics bought/buyer
Jivandas Deshraj
Bales
Okhla Nehru place(Gurgaon)
Greigh fabrics-cambric, voile, dobby, poplin etc. Greigh cambric, voile, poplin, twill. Greigh cambric, voile, poplin, twill, linen, cotton voile. Yarn dyed stripes.
Different Count
Bales
Okhla (gurgaon)
Kapil traders
Bales
Nehru place
Aero textiles
Roll form
Baddi (Himachal)
BuyerPaul Smith-> 70s voile, poplin Espirit ->60s cambric. Dyed fabric.
H. V. Velvet
Bales
Manesar (Gurgaon)
Velvet, corduroy. Finished fabric.
Mafatlal
Bales
Ahmedabad (gujrat)
Poplin, yarn dyes stripes( mill made), printed cambric.
Rishi Vastralay
Bales
Chandni Chowk( Delhi)
Nylon nets, mesh, core.
Bharat Vijay mills Cocoon exports Arvind mills
* Knits are not used generally, not so frequently. If required they are ordered by the merchant or the buyer.
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2.2.2.3 Some general procedures
2.2.2.3.1 Fabric store process control procedure
Fabric receipt
100% fabric received to physically check for length and rolls received against the invoice of the fabric received. Physical verification of the quality and its findings is recorded and status the same is intonated to the concerned, necessary action initiated as required
Fabric inspection
10% fabric inspection for defects on the 4-point system and other parameters like Bowing-CSV-End to End shade variation. Defects standards are displayed at the fabric inspection area as acceptable or not acceptable separately for easier identification. The inspection result is recorded in the fabric inspection chart provided and forwarded to merchant for approval.
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2.2.2.3.2Shrinkage test Fabric sample of half or one meter is taken from each lot and tested for shrinkage. The procedure: o Marking is done on the fabric with a special marking pen (centurys tex marker). o The sample is then dipped in water at room temperature for 30-35 mins. o It is then manually rinsed and pressed (steam iron), sometimes tumbler wash dry is used. o Shrinkage is measured lengthwise as well as width wise after drying the sample. o Shrinkage report prepared for each lot (each roll) of a fabric. Note: yellow softeners etc are used with water according to buyer requisition. 2.2.2.3.3 The dyeing process:
o Day 1- fabric is sent o Day2 stitched together o Mercerisation(48 hours) o Dyeing(60 hours) Before finishing of the bulk fabric, samples are made and attached to a sheet (fabric report) which is sent for the approval of the buyer Q.A. After approval it takes 24 hours to reach the stores. Printing generally takes 30-40 days. Yarn dyeing takes 45-60 days. Some extra greigh fabric is sent to the dyer as per shrinkage percentage.
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2.2.2.3.4 Color fastness test
A white cloth is attached to the sample sent for shrinkage test to test the color fastness or bleeding. Generally, processed white poplin(92*88) is used.
2.2.2.3.5 Points to be ensured before the fabric is discharged to the production unit
Initial length of the fabric. Any deviation should be addressed and rectified out of the bulk. Head ends of 1/4 meter from every roll of the fabric should be received from the bulk is dispatched from the fabric store. This is done for following checking.
Checking the initial yardage 1. Color design 2. Width 3. Quality parameters (Fabric performance test of the fabric as per the buyer requirement) 4. Shade wise grouping of the head ends. Shade card is prepared.
The fabric comes in following widths (inches) and the changes in the same due to processing.
GREIGH
>
AFTER DYEING
>
AFTER BLEACH
48 54 63
> > >
40 45 52
> > >
41 46 54
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2.2.2.3.6 Other observations The fabric received is checked for quantity and the size (length) of roll/bale noted for every fabric received. The fabric was divided into checked and rejected sections and stored accordingly in different racks. The fabric for the buyer PAUL SMITH was stored in separate racks. The cost of transportation is included in the fabric cost by the vendors. When the fabric is sent for dyeing/processing, the transportation is provided by the dyer at the rate of 30p/mtr. Surplus fabric kept in stock for 2-3 years and then sold into the market. Stock register is maintained for each type of fabric with fabric details along with a fabric sample. The store house official makes the record manually in the Excel sheet and assigns the rack number batch wise. The goods received at this stage come with the following information o Batch/Roll No. o Buyer Po o Customer o Order No o Category o Gross Weight o Net Weight o Colour o Meet Code o Width o Length o Pieces o Style No o Date o Description
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2.2.2.4 Capacity calculation
One rack = 2.5 compartments Compartment dimensions of one rack 58.5 *47.25 *38 Total number of racks = 24 Roll length taken for sample and calculation = 88.5 m Dimension of roll = 43 * 20 *5.5 Volume of roll = 4730 cu inch Volume of rack = 105036.75 cu inch Total rolls/bales it can hold =volume of rack/volume of roll =22 Capacity in mts =22*roll length taken for calculation =22*85 1965.25 m
Total capacity of store
= total no of racks *no. of compartments *capacity in mts = 24 * 2.5 * 1965.25 = 117915.68 m
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2.4 Records maintained

Accurate records are generated and kept for all receiving, issuing and balance quantities for any references.
Following formats are used at Orchid Overseas Pvt. Ltd. Fabric width report Fabric job card Fabric shrinkage report Fabric inspection report Fabric inward Material requisition slip Ledger book Challans used Internal Issue challan (to other unit) Issue challan (to other departments) Fabric issue challan (when fabric is sent for dyeing)
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2.5 Process flow

Enquiry from buyer
Indent From Merchandiser
Is the Indent for sampling?
No
Identify source of supplier.
Yes
Is material available ?
No
Fabric is ordered
Issued to sampling department
Ye s
Quantity checked according to the packaging detail.
Supplier is informed.
No
Quantity matches? ?
Yes
Not Okay
Fabric Card Made and Approval Taken from the Merchandiser/buyer. Quality checking is done with 4 point system. Okay Fabric is tested for shrinkage.
Issued to the cutting on requisition.
yes
Appro ved?? Apparel Internship Report 2010 ORCHID OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED AKASH ANAND & RAJIL MITTAL, DFT (2007-2011) National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
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2.6 Problems observed

The number of persons/workers in the department is less than the number actually required. o Present workforce Head of department Head checker(s) Assistant checker(s) Helpers(loaders/lifters) 1 1 2 3
The workload is about 10000mts/day during the peak season. The checkers are the ones who sometimes have to do the work of loading, unloading, receiving the fabric, bringing it from the vendors etc. due to which ample amount of time is wasted which could have been utilised for checking the fabric already in the store.
The helpers of the fabric store are the ones responsible for the transferring of the material (fabric) issued to the cutting department.
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Chapter 3 TRIMS STORE
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3.1 Introduction
The accessories department controls the accessories sourcing from various suppliers and supply of accessories to the various departments at specified time as per requirement. The department does the function of buying of accessories centrally. After the accessories is delivered by the supplier the accessories department performs the function of inspection. And after due inspection the trims are stored in the store and then are issued to the particular departments on requisition.
The obvious duty of the Trims and Accessories Store Department is to keep the stock of different accessories and trims, Machine Accessories, Consumables and Packing materials. Trims And Accessories like Threads, Labels, Hand Tags, Buttons, etc; Machine Accessories like Needles, Presser Foot Etc; Consumables like Packing Materials like of the Machines; Oil, Grease, Chalks, etc. Poly Bags, Cartons, Hand Bags etc Spares
They also keep the stock of folders and attachments.
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3.2.1 Primary Survey
The main function of stores is to supply right quality of trims to various departments at the right time. Purchase Order is sent to the trims store by the merchandiser. Merchandiser gives the swatches 1 week before starting bulk production to match the threads. Merchandiser orders the other trims and accessories to the suppliers. Pre Production Meeting is held to approve the TRIM CARD. Two copies of the trim card are prepared for the reference of the trim store and for the production. The concerned merchandiser handling a particular order, places the order for the trims to the supplier. This department is headed by the Merchandising department. There is a head of department who takes care of the proceedings of the department. The main functions of the department are: Receive the trims as per BOM Inspection and counting Conduct tests for the trims which require them Issue to sewing dept as per plan
ARRIVAL OF GOODS & STOCKING METHOD The trims & accessories stores at head office mainly dealt with storing goods received from the supplier. The goods were then issued to the factories based on their requirements.
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STORAGE The trims and the accessories store had different racks allotted buyer wise, for the storage of incoming trims and accessories. The goods are stored in boxes or cardboard cartons or in plastic bins.
VISUAL CHECK The items were checked for shade, color, type, style, write up, etc. as per the specification sheet. If required, the appropriate trims were washed as per the specification to ensure that shade variation, bleeding do not take place.
3.2.1.1 Functions of the trims store Receive the accessories from supplier (Domestic/International) and store it. Maintain basic stock and maintain smooth flow of material. To check the quality as per standard and quantity received from the supplier. Rational use of accessories and accountability for the authentic use. Coordinate with different departments for the accessories. Coordinate with supplier, Merchandiser, and Purchase department.
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3.2.1.2 Units for Measurement of Accessories:
Name Buttons Label Zipper Carton Bar code sticker Hanger Elastic Velcro Thread Interlining Fusing Packing tape Poly bag
Unit Per gross Per piece Per piece Per piece Per piece Per piece Per meter Per meter Per meter Per meter Per meter/Yard Per roll Per Kg.
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3.2.1.3 Trim store process control procedure
1. Trim storage Trim stores see following designated storage areas clearly marked. Incoming goods: where all incoming goods will be stored Inspected OK goods: all trims once audit/inspection is passed and stored at this area Inspection/audit failed: all trims which are rejected are stored at this area.
2. Trim inspection Trim stores have a designated area with a table with adequate lighting. Marked as trim inspection area where an audit table is available with display board to display all approved trim cards and instructions. This board have a facing and accessible to the trim auditor. All trim inspection is wounded on this table by authorized QA. All incoming trims are 10% audited at random and an audit result report generated and issued to the stores by the trim auditor. Store intimates the % of rejected goods to the management and assesses possibility of shortage to the order and highlight demand for replacements communication records for the above available at the stores.
3. Trim Records Accurate records are generated and kept for all receiving, issuing and balancing qualities for any references
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4. Trim storage Trim stores see following designated storage areas clearly marked. Incoming goods: where all incoming goods will be stored Inspected OK goods: all trims once audit/inspection is passed and stored at this area Inspection/audit failed: all trims which are rejected are stored at this area.
5. Trim inspection Trim stores have a designated area with a table with adequate lighting. Marked as trim inspection area where an audit table is available with display board to display all approved trim cards and instructions. This board have a facing and accessible to the trim auditor. All trim inspection is wounded on this table by authorized QA. All incoming trims are 10% audited at random and an audit result report generated and issued to the stores by the trim auditor. Store intimates the % of rejected goods to the management and assesses possibility of shortage to the order and highlight demand for replacements communication records for the above available at the stores.
6. Trim Records Accurate records are generated and kept for all receiving, issuing and balancing qualities for any references
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3.2.1.4 Types of trims stored in the department are: Buttons Tapes Labels Tags Zipper Elastic Hangers Polybags Fusing Laces Draw string Beads Sequences Tissue paper Thermo Cole sheets Cartons
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3.2.1.4.1 Standard strengths for threads
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3.2.1.4.2 Button performance
a) Size and spacing of holes Minimum distance between holes 2.8mm Minimum hole size 1.6mm/d b) Workmanship Buttons should be free of any rough edges which might affect the smooth operation and damage the sewing threads. c) Color application All color must be pigmented (contained in the polyester mix) and not dyed onto the surface. d) Color matching All buttons should match the shade standard or bulk fabric to which it is being compared with no variation of the shade, or metamerism, under all three illuminants. This will ensure satisfactory shade matching both on displays in the store and during subsequent use by the customer.
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3.2.1.4.3 Wash care Label details
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The department receives the BOM (Bill of material) from the PPC, which has all the details of the material to be ordered for a particular order in case of the trims and accessories of the garment. While for the machine spares, consumables, attachments, etc. The maintenance department gives the Purchase Requisition to the stores department. The BOM contains
Order number Buyer Style Order quantity Shade Quantity to be ordered Vendor Delivery date
Trim Card contains: Main label Additional label (fire label) Size label Wash care label Content label Loop label Tapes and backing Extra tags Heat Transfer label (content of main label and size care label are there in heat transfer label)
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The PPC then gives the PR (Purchase Request) of the material based on which the department prepares the PO (Purchase Order). The order is placed according to this and then the materials and store prepares a GRN (Goods Receipt Note) which contains the details like quantity, party etc. This is prepared for the accounts department so that they can take payments at the right time.
3.2.2.1 Goods procurement procedure User department sends purchase requisition to the store department and the Stores Department asks vendor for sample development. The developed sample and quotation is asked from vendors. Then suitable vendor selected from set of Vendor. Then purchase order is issued to the selected vendor. The department follows up of the order with the vendor. Once goods are received by e store GRN (Goods Receipt Note) is issued. The user department issues the request to the store and the material is issued to the respective department. The store in-charge selects the vendor for the final placement of the order according to the price, date of delivery, quality and payment terms as main criteria.
Lead Time Categories of item Market of procurement Lead time (indays)
Consumables
local Imported
15 30
Machine spares
local Imported
15 30 to 60 55
3.2.2.2 Vendors Type of trim Buttons Form of supply Gross(1gross=144 buttons) Vendor Jindal (hissar) Welspun (gurgao) Hangers Polybags Dozen Kilogram Mainetti (Delhi) Ritu packaging Packaging warehouse Thread Tubes/cone(400-5000 mts) Coats Vardhmaan Label Pieces Pexer (wash care-taft) SML(printed) Kailash(woven) Fusing Meter Fred & berg(gurgao) SBG(gurgao) Sequences Beads Elastic Kilogram Pounds Meter KBC BBC Spykar Tulip Zipper No of pcs YKK
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3.2.2.3 Trims inspection
All the trims like are checked at the receiving point for quantity and quality in the Trims Inspection Area. 10% (or Acceptable Quality Level 2.5 or as specified) of the incoming trims are inspected randomly and the audit report is generated and issued to the stores by the trim auditor. In case of failure, 100% inspection is recommended and conducted by the stores and its result is recorded and the rejected goods are segregated.
AQL 2.5 TABLE FOR TRIMS INSPECTION Single sample plan Lot size 80 500 501 1200 1201 3200 3201 10,000 10,001 35,000 35,001 50,000 Sample size 80 125 200 315 500 800 Accept 5 7 10 14 21 21 Reject 6 8 11 15 22 22
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AQL Sample Selection Method

0 500 2 3 4 5 501 2500 2501 20,000 20,001 50,000 50,001 & above 100% inspection 20% inspection 10% inspection 5% inspection 2% inspection
Incase of rejection further inspection was carried out as follows: Case 2: 30% +50% Case 3: 15% +25% +50% Case 4: 5% +10% Case 5: +5%+10%
SHADE MATCHING All trimmings and accessories should match the shade standard or bulk fabric to which it is being compared with no variation of the shade, or metamerism, under all three illuminants. This will ensure satisfactory shade matching both on display in the store and during subsequent use by the customer.
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3.2.2.4 Other accessories in the store: Visiting card Broken needles Broken beads, buttons etc. Blunt/broken machine blades Files of completed orders Envelopes Fluid glue challan book registers copy paper scissors needles machine blade cello tapes weights tag gun pins bobbins
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stapler stapler pins hard brown sheets permanent markers pen/pencils calculator carbon paper fax roll fevi stick highlighter plastic folder punching machine scale refills sticker rolls stickering machine sharpener eraser tape dispenser
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floor code sticker shade card chalk pattern making paper CAD paper roll Order file Measuring tape
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3.2.2.5 Some general procedures
General compliances o Buttons must be-lead free, cadmium free, nickel free. o Sequences must be- PVC free
The quality level varies from buyer to buyer and the style specifications. Inspection and checking is done foro Quantity o Quality wash care labels are checked for color fastness Buttons checked for strength. Tapes- washing tests.
The storage is done buyer wise and hence stock is never maintained for the future.
Materials are only issued on the showing ofo Requisition slip-inter department o Challan- outside the factory.
All the surplus stock is kept together and marked/named as surplus. There are separate racks for the same. The trims of the styles that have been completed are stored in surplus.
They order a quantity such that surplus left is not too large Extra percentage ordered:
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o Label o Tags o Zipper 2% o Buttons o Polybags
2% 2%
2% 3%
Shade card is given by the supplier which contains the color and/or a sample of the material being supplied by the buyer along with the color code which needs to be mentioned while ordering of materials. Hence the shade matching is done through the shade card.
For testing: a style wise file is made and the mock trims are sent to the merchandiser for approval.
The store follows a 0% tolerance scheme. Trims received in the store are fully finished and ready for use i.e. no further value additions are needed.
Nothing is made in house. Special trims are outsourced for jobwork.
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3.2.2.6 Infrastructure Racks: o No of racks : 19 o Rack partition dimensions: Length = 58.5 Width = 47.25 Height = 38
Issuing table: o No. of tables : 3 Table dimensions : o Length=96.5 o Width=48 o Height=37 o Issueing table :1 o Computer table :2
Fire extinguisher: Tube light: Bins WORKFORCE:The department has one head, one checker, 1 assistant checker and 2 helpers and one record cum stationary keeper.
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3.3 Reports maintained

Trims approval card Standard Acceptable Quality Level table for trims inspection Trims inspection report Trims lab test certificate First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains various details such as the PCD Date, Sample Date, PCD Sample, Prototype Sample, Order chart, RMR. The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR). This report gives the details as to the which trims are to be received, the consumption per garment, the required qty, the qty ordered, the qty received and the balance left to receive. The trims store head maintains a Daily Status Report of the trims that are issued from the main store and the balance left yet to receive. This is maintained for the internal reference of the trims store. The inspection of the trims and accessories is done in the main unit itself. Hence, when the trims are received, they are only stored and issued to the production at the trims store. Out of the 1 roll or 1 box, 100 labels are inspected for defects or damages. If 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more defects are found, then another 100 are checked. In this 100 again if 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more than 5 defects are found, then the entire lot is rejected. In case of 100 labels, 40 defective are acceptable. 50 are unacceptable. And 40-50 are in the decision making process.. There are many types of labels that are used in the production: Main Label has the buyers name.
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Content Label contains the content of the fabric. Size Label size of the garment is specified Tab Label has the logo of the buyer. ID/Wash care Label has the wash care instructions for the garment For Elastic, the shrinkage test is carried out by the trims store: In this they measure 1m of the elastic and mark it. This elastic is then dipped in water for 15-20 mins. It is then dried naturally. Then the elastic are measured again. Then the shrinkage is calculated using the formula: Shrinkage (%) = [After wash Before wash)/before wash] * 100
The report is made and sent to the merchandiser. The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart following details are present Fabric swatch Matching thread for the fabric
fabric color fabric code Button Button matching thread
This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser signs the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are then approved form the buyer and signed.
It should be not known that the buttons are of different shades (in case they are accepted) and hence, they are stuck to the chart at the backside. The rest of the trims are not inspected. After this inspection, a meeting is held between the trim store head, Industrial Engineer Department head, Production coordinator and the cutting department head.
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In this meeting it is decide as to which color and style has to be cut first for production. This is decided on the trims that are received. As to for which style and color the trims are available for production.
After the meeting is over, the production starts. The cutting section then sends a Slip. This slip contains the details Cut no, Size, Sr no, Lot no, Qty, Shrinkage, Shade.
This is taken by the feeding helper who maintains a register called the Cutting Book. All the details of the slip are copied into this book, except the Shrinkage. The helper also fills in the time.
The store then receives the Requisition Slip which contains the details material, Qty indent (required), qty issued and the dept. The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the required qty. The trim store head also maintains a Stock Ledger. o As soon as the materials are recieved, the left side of the ledger is filled up. Details Date, Received from, DC No, PO No, IC No, Total receipts o As soon as the materials are issued to the lines, the right side of the ledger is filled up. Details Date, Issued to (line no), Regd Sr No, No of Pcs supplied, Balance left. o After every 2-3 days the stocks are checked. o The trims store also maintains Bin Card. The bin card contains the details of the trims that are being stored in the rack, how much is issued and the balance. Details Date, Received Qty, Date, Line no., issued qty, Balance.
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3.4 Process flow

Enquiry from buyer
Indent From Merchandiser
Is the Indent for sampling?
No
Identify source of supplier.
Yes
Is material available ?
No
Trims is ordered
Yes Issued to sampling department Quantity checked according to the packaging detail.
Supplier is informed.
No
Quantity matches? ?
Yes Not Okay

Quality checking is done visually. Okay Trims are tested to meet buyers specifications.
Yes
Issued to the respective department. Appro ved?? Trim Card Made and Approval Taken from the Merchandiser/buyer.
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3.5 Questionnaire
1. What are the various types of trims in the stores? 2. Who all are the vendors? 3. What are the criteria for vendor selection? 4. How is the cost of particular trim calculated? 5. What is the form of accessories i.e.-per kg,per mt etc.. 6. What are the quality levels or parameters to be followed in store department? 7. How a trim is checked or quality and what all are the different methods to check the quality of trims? 8. How is inspection done for different trims? 9. How is storage of the trims done and what all points should be taken care at the time of trim storage? 10. What is the capacity of the store? 11. How to find a particular trim and check its stalk? 12. How the trims are issued to the different departments? 13. How is the average trims in a garment calculated? 14. How is waste managed? 15. How remnants are used by store departments? 16. How is % waste calculated? 17. What extra % of the total quantity is ordered as safety measures? 18. What is a shade card and is it prepared? 19. How is the consumption of thread calculated and effect of ticket number n consumption? 20. What are the various factors that effect the trim consumption? a. seam type b. seam length c. stitch type d. fabric type e. wastage
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f. alteration/rejection 21. How is thread stored in the accessory store? 22. What is the process of shade matching of a thread? 23. What is done in case of incorrect shade matching? 24. What all are the types of buttons? 25. Effect of button type on cost due to thread usage? 26. Is their any special way of storing running order trims? 27. What is done with the trims left in very small quantity? Are they stored or thrown away? 28. What are the different test methods for different types of trims? 29. What are the different types of reports used in store department and how are they managed? 30. What is the process of trims approval from buyer? 31. What all are included in a test report of a trim? 32. What is the tolerance %? 33. What is the process flow of accessory store? 34. Is there any relation between fabric and accessory store? 35. How information is transmitted between different departments? 36. Are the trims send for some extra value additions? 37. Are any trims prepared in house? 38. What is the process of fabric issued for preparing certain kind of trims? 39. How trims effect costing of a garment? 40. Where are the fabrics trims stored like-nets, fusing etc. 41. What are the most important trims of the department? 42. What are trims foe which buffer stock is maintained? 43. What all are the common defects of the trims found? 44. What is frequency of rejection of a trim? 45. Who all are responsible for issuing trims? 46. What all are the general trims used in ORCHID OVERSEAS?
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Chapter 4 Spreading and cutting
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4.1 Introduction
Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. A spread or layup is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker. A spread may consist of a single or multiple plies. The height of a lay-up or spread is limited by fabric characteristics size of the order to be cut, cutting method, and the vertical capacity of the spreader.
Spreading is done manually. One person or two, depending on the width and type of fabric, type of equipment, and size of spread, may be involved with the spreading process. Two people may be used for manual spreading unless the spread is very short. One person may work each side of the table in order to keep the fabric flat, smooth, and tension-free. With automatic spreading, the equipment controls the tension, fabric placement, and rate of travel. The spread lays are then cut using appropriate machines and methods.
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Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. The actual process of spreading involves laying out fabric in the desired number of layers. A spread may be laid up by one person or two, depending on the width and type of fabric, equipment, and size of spread. Two people are used for manual spreading unless the spread is very short on person may work each side of the table in order to keep the fabric flat; smooth, and tension-free. The spreaders have to control the tension and fabric placement the first layer is sticked by means of tape as a reference length for rest of the layers. There are normally following type of fabric which comes in spreading room: stripes checked solid
Strips and checked fabric The fabric received is generally in tabular form. It is first cut to convert it in the flat form then from knowing the average marker length from the pattern master the first layer is cut and sticked on the table. The rest of the layers superimposed on this first layer keeping in mind the matching of lay length. Special attention is given to matching of stripes and checks between layer to layer so that one can ensure stripe to stripe matching in front to back or in other parts of garments in case of stripes also known as engineered stripes. Different layers are cut according to specified marker length which is known as "palla". After cutting all layers these layers are then adjusted to match the stripes. It is difficult to control the lay at the time of cutting, so there are fewer layers laid in this type of fabric. The spread type is normally nowfow (nap-one-way face-one-way). This is done because to avoid any variation in matching of strips.
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Solid fabric: The fabric from its package which is generally in piled up frame and carried along the table where the ends are secured by weights or clamps. There are two operators (in case of manual spreading) in this also, which work back from the end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and that there are no wrinkles. The ply is normally cut with hand shears. Though a few fabrics are ripped at the end of ply to discover the exact weft grain and enable some straightening of a slightly crooked fabric (bowing/skewing) to take place. In this also the first layer is laid according to the average length given by the pattern master. This layer is then sticked on the table by using the transparent tape. The rest of the layers are then superimposed keeping in mind the grain line, lay length etc. The spreader ensures fabric flatness, smoothness, and tensionfree. To avoid any variations between layers of two "thaans", layers of one thaan are separated from layers of other thaans by keeping the scraps and cutting waste of other color fabric. It is generally kept between the last layer of one thaan and first ply of next thaans. There are some types of fabrics that are required to be cut, and then sent for laundering and then again be spread on top of each other. This is for a pre shrinking process.
4.2.1.1 Spreading quality The spreading quality plays an important role in production. Spreading quality must be measured with respect to the following factors: ply alignment: length and width ply tension: stretch, slack, tight edge grain alignment: bowing damage placement: economy of placement surface direction
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4.2.1.2 Marker placing
Marker making is the process of developing the jig-saw like diagram which is superimposed on piles as a guide for cutting these piles of fabric into the required component parts of manufactured product. The cad department gives the efficiency of the marker, and then accordingly the pattern master of the cutting department draft online marker on the top most layers of the piles. In other cases the markers are made manually i.e. the cutting master places each and every pattern on the plies and then draws I over the plies and then the cutting us done accordingly. It takes a lot of time but is necessary in some cases such as extreme check matching for short orders.
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The spreading process starts with the planning master receiving the cut order from the planning department. The planning master receives a cut order which has all the specification about a particular style. These specifications include the style no. and the quantity. Now from this cut order plan a revised plan is made by the planning master which specifies the no. of layer which have to be laid for a particular size & color. Thus a cut order plan is created by the planning master or the CAD. From this cut order plan separate job cards are created for the workers. Cut Order Plan contains size wise ratio of the style and contains all the dates of approval and the disapproval description. After receiving the cut order plan planning master plans the no. of plies for the spreading and on the basis of this fabric store issues the fabric.
4.2.2.1 Cut Order Planning
Cutting Room is linked directly to the Planner/Merchandiser (production coordinator), Stores and Production Manager for scheduling and sewing loading. The role of the Coordinator is limited to coordinate the dates of all activities related to the order delivery in terms of fabric availability, orders priorities, markers issuing and sewing planning. The role of the Stores is limited to scheduling the fabric deliveries to the cutting room in terms of quantity and types. The role of the production management is limited to scheduling the daily quantity as per the production planning in order to feed the production lines on time without any delays. To do so, Cutting Room requires synchronized activities in order to achieve in time deliveries to the Sewing Floor.
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4.2.2.2 Order Assignments
Merchandiser issues an order package to the planner (coordinator) giving all the data related to the style after buyer's approval of the sample. The package contains the following elements: Cutting Slip Technical or Specification Sheet Trims Sheet (if raw materials are not listed on the Cutting Slip). Trim Card (with the actual samples of fabrics, accessories and trims) Mini sketches of the pattern regrouping of all parts in one garment. Fabric Swatch (Face Side, Fabric Way) approved by the buyer. Shades Continuity Card. Fabric Inspection Report. (issued separately once the fabric is approved) Swatches of embroidery or printed panels (approved), if needed. Fusing Requirements (Fusing Conditions)
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Planner holds the order package till fabric arrival and approval in addition to the making of the marker. o Planner meets the Cutting Manager and Production Manager in order to assign all the Cutting Slips according to priority of cut. o The Planner issues to the Cutting Manager the Production Loading Schedule that is required daily to feed the production lines based on styles and cut priorities. o Cutting Manager/Lay Planner plans all the Cutting Room activities required per table and area based on the fabric availability, the markers and the quantity buffer required per day to the production floor in order to feed all the lines probably at the same time. Cutting manager takes into consideration the sub-contract activities such as panel screen print, embroidery that requires prior to delivery to the sewing floor. o Cutting Manager prepares the Fabric Requisitions including the Items Codes appearing on the Bill of Materials keeping a buffer of one day in the cutting room per table. o Cutting Manager meet up with the Stores Manager in order to provide the cutting schedule and requirements in fabric or other materials. The merchandisers should approve all requisitions. o Cutting Recorders send the cut details to IE Department in order to provide the cutting schedule and requirements for Bundle Tickets and the Bundle Checklist prior to bundling.
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4.2.2.3 Fabric Requisition and Stores Procedures
Once the Fabric Requisition is received the, the requested quantity is issued to the Cutting Room after checking the Fabric Item Code, Shades etc. The quantity issued is recorded in the ledgers and Bin Cards are updated. The Original Copy of the Requisition Note is signed by the Fabric Issuing Clerk and the Stores Manager, and filed in the Stores. The carbon copy is filed in the Cutting Room in case of handling latter issues.
4.2.2.4 Sub Storing Procedure
Sub Storage for fabrics in the Cutting Department is needed in some occasions to meet urgent production issues, to maintain an uninterrupted flow of production in the Cutting Department and continuous supply of input to the Sewing Lines. The Sub Storage should also be properly organized so that it meets the customers' compliance needs and to have a smooth production system in the Cutting Department. The fabric rolls should be stored as Item Codes, shades and style wise requirements. The fabrics should be covered all the time until it is used for laying. There should be a separate area for rejected fabrics and storing the end bits of the running styles (in case of re-cutting). All the racks need to be numbered in order to facilitate easy access to a particular location of fabrics.
4.2.2.5 Lay Planning
The Cutting Manager/Lay Planner should plan the Style/Order so that the required sizes and order quantities are achieved as per the original ratios. Different size combinations of lays are possible if it helps to maximize the fabric utilization.
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4.2.2.6 Spreading Activity
After planning is done, Lay Slip could be split into several lays numbers but all under the same cut no. (Cut no. Stands for the order/job number related to the same delivery date).
Cutting manager or assigned person, prepare the Laying Slips for the spreaders and hand over all requirements including the marker as per the Spreading and Cutting Activities Calendar
Cutting manager ensures that the fabric has been transferred to the tables or designated area as per his or her request. Cutting manager issues the Laying Slip to the assigned team as per the tables planned with the necessary requirement for spreading activity and the quality control issues.
Spreading is done manually so there are two methods they are following: o Torn with the hand along with weft direction o Cut with the help of scissors
They use torn method mainly with the fabric like georgette and silk. The main for purpose for doing this is to avoid bowing form the fabric. The steps of spreading were following:1. Firstly, the cutting masters measures the required lay length and mark it on the table. 2. Secondly, the workers lay down the brown paper of required length + 5 cm 3. Then, they start laying the fabric from the roll by putting the roll no. and length of the roll on the job card. 4. After that they start matching the lay from one end and go back by relaxing the fabric by the hand i.e. make it a straight so that when they lay 2nd ply it is easy for the ply to settle down on the other.
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5. In case of georgette and silk they tore the fabric from the end because of the bowing. 6. When they found large amount of bowing on the torn side of the fabric they cut that amount of part from the fabric. 7. After that they again start to lay that cut fabric part and they again done the same thing as they done above means they again matched the fabric ply from one side in this way they are able to seek out the bowing. 8. In another cases like when they are tackling with interlining, check & stripes and jacket fabric they are using scissors for the end cutting.
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4.2.2.7 How to handle bowing?
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For the checks and stripes block cutting and re-cutting procedures are used in which a block is cut according to the size of the pattern which is then re-laid and re-cut. When they encountered the garments which have 100% matching of checks and stripes they are using placement cutting in which they first cut the whole garments pattern from a single ply and then they stick brown paper below the cut pattern which avoids the wrinkling of the cut pattern. After that they cut the pattern from the single ply by matching the stripes and checks of the 1st pattern. This is known as placement cutting. Placement cutting is mainly done on the buyer requirement i.e. when the buyer wants each and every garment looks like a same with matching stripes and checks.
4.2.2.8 Quality controller
Before spreading the quality controller has to check the following points: Check the width of the fabric. Assure the number of pieces on the marker as per the mini sketches or the parts listed on the Master Cutting Slip/Cutting Instruction Slip Verify the given fabric versus the approved swatch. Determine the length on the table. Ensure the direction of the fabric and grain lines. Gather all the tools required for the spreading. Place a marker paper on the first ply Select the rolls as per the shade to avoiding any mixes ups.
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4.2.2.9 Roles of a Spreader
1. To collect the lay slip & lay order report from the cutting in charge. 2. To check the number of ways, lays, width, style no., color, cut no., table no. in lay slip 3. To check the alignment of the Edge Cutting machine. 4. To lay base paper on the cutting table as per the lay length given in the lay slip. 5. To receive fabric, shade & width wise from fabric sub stores. 6. before spreading the first lay to check the face side of the fabric 7. After first lay spreading is complete to inform QC of the table to check the marker length, face side & width. To ensure marker length on either side does not exceed more than a cm. 8. Spreading to be done shade / width wise. 9. Spreaders have to enter the lay order report 10. In case of any defects while spreading it should be highlighted with a paper which is placed width wise. This information is passed on to the QC immediately. 11. End bits to be stored width wise, color wise, end bit length mentioned and placed under the cutting table. 12. End bits spreading should be completed on the same day. In case there is a balance to hand over to the fabric Asst. 13. After spreading is complete to count the lay physically and ensure that it is as per the lay slip. 14. In case of checks fabrics the top and bottom lines of the checks to match. 15. To enter all the spreaders names in the lay slip along with lay start time & end time. 16. Report to cutting section in charge.
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17. During Spreading, the spreader has to evaluate certain points as follows: Any damages in the fabric, Any shades problems in the fabric Avoid extra tension/pressure on the fabric fly. Fill up the relevant columns in the Lay Slip for fabric Ticket Length, number of plies laid from the particular roil.
Fabric edges are aligned leveled properly Lay down blank marker paper every quantity corresponds to the bundle size in order to make the bundling easy. Calculate every fabric roll consumed on the Laying Slip with the roll number identity and the quantity recorded on the roll tag. Keep all the damages torn off from the rolls. Make sure the number of plies laid tally with that of the Lay Slip. Write down the damage fabric, unusable, usable and over lap yardage in the relevant columns in the Lay Slip.
19. End of Spreading, the spreader has to evaluate certain points as follows: Finalize the quantity remaining on the last roll on hand, and change the quantity on the tag. Write the Roll No., Fabric Item Code and Shade No. on all the end bits. Count the number of plies and compare to the Lay Slip. Calculate the damages in length, and record them. Calculate the total number of meters spread. Finalize the laying slip and hand over to the cutting manager. call the quality staff for quality inspection. assist in moving the lay to the front of the table in order to start new laying assignment. Submit the documents back to the cutting manager or keep with the cutting activity.
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Fabric spreading time depends on the number of plies per lay but the cutting time remains the same no matter the number of plies per lay. It's very important to develop the best work method for spreading the fabric efficiently with least number of employees. Spreaders, should be cautioned in all time and ensure that their activity is meeting the requirement of the buyer's order and the time schedule.
4.2.2.10 Cutting Activity The cutting activity starts after the spreading and aim to cut the garments parts or blocks for fusing or band knife. Cutters verify the parts required per unit in order to plan his cut. Cutters should use his metal gloves all the time for security purpose. Cutters should be aware of all the quality procedures and tolerances for cutting. The Cutters should thoroughly follow the pattern lines while cutting to avoid quality issues. The Cutters should thoroughly follow the pattern notches where applicable while cutting to avoid quality issues in sewing. Once cutting is done, cutter should advise the quality team for panel checking prior to dislocate the parts. Once the cutting is finished the cutters should sign on the space given in the Lay Slip. Once quality is approved by the Quality Controllers, they should sign on the space given in the Lay Slip to confirm that the lay is approved for cutting. The cutters, with the help of the helpers, move the bundles to the next area as per the requirement. Cutters will return all the tools used to fixed the lays to their original destinations. Cutting activity should be done as much as possible to complete one size by cutting all the parts in the garment in order to accelerate the job on numbering and/or bundling.
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4.2.2.11 Block cutting/re-cutting In case of stripe/check matching once the patterns and the appropriate blocks are cut they are sent for re-cutting. The blocks are laid on the table layer wise and the stripes/checks matched by placing the appropriate pattern parts onto the block. The patterns for the same are cut at the time of cutting. For front and sleeve matching: one side front is cut and the other side is put in a block. For back (on fold): one side is cut and then folded and cut in a block which is then sent for re-cutting. Collars and cuffs: same procedure is followed as front and sleeves. Layers shall mark both end bits with roll number, cut-lot number, meter age all the bits every lay shall be bundled and given to re-cutting department. End-bits should be always laid face-up, no change in laying procedure without prior information from the in charge End-bits should be placed separately (Shade wise) to avoid discrepancies, the roll & taka number should be written and stacked separately Re-Cutting should be done from the same lot of fabric, matching the shade, to avoid shade variation.
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4.3 Department statistics

4.3.1 Cutting machine
Blue streak Class 629X Serial F98303 Amps 4.2 Volts 220 Cycles 50 Speed 2850 rpm No. of machines=3 Blade length = 8 but open for cutting = 6
4.3.2 Sharpening abrasive belt

Eastman 181C2-2N Medium grit
Life of the blade: o Cotton voile 4000-5000 pcs o Poplin o Denim 2000 pcs 1000 pcs
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4.3.3 Tables for spreading and cutting

Dimensions: Length=96 Width=48 Height=37 No of tables=19 out of which 5 are for re-cutting
Small table dimensions Length=96 Width=12 Height= 37 No of small tables=14 Note: the small tables are used alongside the wider tables (48) in case of wider width fabrics else they are kept alongside in the corner with the walls and are used to keep usable end bits. Under the table they used to store some extra fabric which may be used in future for quick use.
4.3.4 Department hierarchy

No of persons=13 1 head 2 cutters 2 helpers 8 spreaders
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4.3.5 Some general observations

Pinning is never used in this industry for threats of pin breaking and remaining in the fabric. Selvedge is cut in such a way that it is removed in seams. The stores give information about the width of the fabric. Average cutting per day=7000-10000 pcs per day. Max lay depth= 2-3 or 200-250 pallas Splicing is not done. The remaining fabric is used as usable end bits for single pieces. Splicing is done in case of color difference and garments with small no. of parts. Hard paper patterns are used for block cutting. For polyester fabric small lay height and clamp are used to avoid slippage. In any marker small parts are cut and removed first to avoid slippage and irregularities due to vibrations of the machine. The lining that is cut is not included in the total pieces cut per day. Counting is done on the basis of number of garments cut per day. A safe percentage of 2% is cut to avoid shortage. o For small order quantity: % increases. o For large order quantity: % decreases. The blade is sharpened mostly before the curves. The lay is cut on the same table on which it is spread. Size is written on the CAD marker which is pasted onto the lay before cutting. This aids in bundling. While making the marker a small buffer (2-3 mm) is maintained between 2 patterns for the blade to move. Relaxation time: o Cotton 1 hour o Hosiery 3-4 hours 90
Crepe, mascara shrink on relaxation ( 5-10 cm).

More the number of plies (pallas) , the chances of fabric shifting at the time of cutting increase. In this industry, the lay height is not taken over 3 because o Order quantity is less o Risk of damage increases as the number of plies increase. o Risk of slipping.
In case of width variation in fabric, markers are made manually for some orders. Time study (see appendix.)
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Cut slip Daily cutting record Lay record Issue challan Cut order plan
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4.5 Process flow

Spec sheet / tech pack from merchandising about the order.
Pattern making is done.
Sent to CAD for average calculation and grading (digitization)
Cut order planning is done.
Marker mode is decided (CAD/manual)
Spreading (marker length)
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CAD Mini marker
Manual marker Spreading (marker length)
Checked by cutting department.
Relaxation time
Requisition for the fabric to the fabric store/ Fabric issue.
Pasting of marker took place.
Sizes are marked accordingly. Inline inspection Blocks cutting Cutting is done with straight knife.
Checks/stripes are matched All patterns of same size are counted and kept together. Recut ting
Sent for sorting and bundling.
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4.6 Questionnaire
1. How many persons are there in the cutting department? a. -Number of spreader. b. -Number of cutters. c. -Number of helpers. d. -Number of supervisors. e. -Number of tables. f. -Dimensions of tables. 2. What are the equipment used for cutting? 3. What all are the machines used in cutting department? 4. What are the spreading methods used in cutting department? 5. What is the procedure to match checks and stripes fabrics? 6. How are selvedge kept constant? 7. What is the average cutting per day? 8. Is splicing done? If yes , how? 9. How is CAD different from manual? 10. What are the advantages of CAD over manual marker? 11. What is the process flow of cutting department? 12. How is pinning useful? 13. What is done with remaining fabric? 14. What is the general lay height for different fabrics? 15. How is nap decided? 16. How are patterns made and rectified? 17. How is average calculated? 18. How are records kept? 19. How requisition is made? 20. What percentage of total quantity is cut extra as allowance? 21. How are notches made? 22. What are the different types of machine used for different fabrics? 23. What is the length of the lay? And how is it decided?
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24. How are the ends cut and matched? 25. What type of blade is used for cutting? a. Life of blade. b. Frequency of sharpening while cutting. 26. What are end losses and how is it calculated? 27. How is a lay move from one place to another? 28. How sizes are marked on each pattern? 29. What is the lead time of sending the pattern to the CAD and receiving marker? 30. Time study of the different processes of a particular garment order? a. Spreading. b. Marking. c. Splicing. d. Cutting. 31. How much time is the fabric left for the relaxation after spreading? 32. How is the table width related to fabric width? 33. How is laying decided as to what width fabric to be spread on which table? 34. What is done with the rejected used blade? 35. Is the table ergonomically fit? 36. What are the general problems faced while cutting? 37. How is block cutting done and why is it important? 38. Is bundling done in cutting department only? 39. How are different pieces of a size matched? 40. Is spreading and cutting done on the same table? 41. How is cutting mode decided? a. Straight knife. b. Band knife. c. Round knife or scissors. 42. What are the effects of deep lay on the cutting? 43. What is lay shifting and how is it countered?
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44. How are fusing patterns cut? 45. How are fusing attached to the fabric? What is the procedure? 46. Is the fusing done before the bundling or after the bundling? 47. What is the size of the blade and how is it varies for different fabrics and lays? 48. Where are the notches made in a pattern? Why is it necessary? 49. Is there any Q.A in cutting room and what is AQL in cutting room?
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Chapter 5 Sorting and bundling
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5.1 Introduction
The role of Sorting Department in the Factory is to coordinate and facilitate production in the Sewing Department. After cutting, sorting takes place where numbered stickers are put on all parts of the garment according to the lays i.e. all cut parts from one Lay are given one number. Sorting Department is labor intensive since the work involves selection and bundling requires human discretion. The process is bundling where all cut parts are made in to bundles. If Fusing is required in some parts (as collar, Neckband, placket, and cuff) it takes place before bundling but after Sorting.
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Bundling is sorting and stacking (with or without ties) cut components for further processing. The size (amount in) of a bundle and the number of different pattern sections in the bundle is dictated individually by the production policy and the needs of the plant. Objective of the bundling is to differentiate a pattern from different lots, which may vary in color. The bundle size varies accordingly to cutting orders, shading, size of the piece in the bundles and the operation that is to be completed.
Bundling sticker contains: bundle number No of pieces Lay no Size
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Ticketing After receiving bundles snickering is done. This is done to identify the patterns of same ply to avoid unnecessary shade variation. It is done manually by a stickering machine. The operator sticks the particular ticket to each component. The ticket should be ideally pasted on the center of the pattern or in such a manner that it does not come in sewing. The ticketing operator is supposed to enter his details of ticketing in a register. This register contains details about the date, bundle number, size and quantity. The sticker number continues for each style.The ticketing operator marks all the pieces and then re bundles them and while re bundling attaches a slip that contains the details about the bundle number and the size. The ticketing sticker has the following details: Size Bundle number Sequence number
After pasting the stickers bundling is done in numbers of 10 or according to the companys own internal compliances.
Size
Bundle No.
Sequence No.
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5.2.2.1 Some general observations Layer is received with size and layer number from the cutting room. After receiving the layer the sticker operators first of all sort the layers size wise After sorting, they start pasting stickers onto the patterns with the help of a stickering machine. Each sticker of the stickering machine has the following details: o Size of the pattern ( remains constant for a layer) o Part/piece no i.e. the number of the layer (keeps on changing on every piece) If by mistake on layer/piece is missed by the operator than the whole lay has to be stickered again to avoid problems of shade matching and the pieces of the bundle are re-counted. Here generally 10 pcs bundle is made with a minimum of 5 pc bundle and a maximum of 14 pcs. All parts of a garment are bundled separately. Stickering machine:o Blitz textile 2234 o Ink roll and sticker roll are fed into the machine. o Numbers adjusted according to size and number. o Sticker roll is of different qualities depending on the fabric to be stickered. Soft gum, hard gum, ppH.
For corduroy and silk, stickers are pasted on the wrong side of the fabric to avoid marks. Numbering is done keeping in mind the layer number i.e. continued after each layer. o For example if a layer finishes at 128, then the next layer would start from 129.
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When pieces are sent for embroidery etc. o Pieces are not stickered, the number is written on one side of the block with pen or pencil. o When pieces are received back, patterns are re-cut o Size wise sorting is done. o Arranged according to the serial number written on them. o Stickers pasted.
All parts of a garment are bundled separately but sent together to the sewing department i.e. all parts of a garment are sent together and not mixed with other size gaze garment parts.
Fusing: parts sent for fusing are bundled in the same manner as the pieces sent for embroidery. No separate bundling is done for fusing parts. The number of plies is noted after each bundle received and an appropriate feedback is sent to the cutting master for equal or mismatch in number of plies.
No record is maintained for the changing of rolls. Average time depends on the type of fabric being handled: o Corduroy takes the max time as it is difficult to separate the plies.
Bundled parts are kept in the bundling room itself until requisition is received from the sewing room. Challan is used to issue bundles. After issuing the bundles the number of lay and the part numbers are noted down along with the challan no. and the floor no. to which it has been issued.
Counting is done on the basis of the number of garments counted and not on the number of pieces. For making bundles of 10, separate pieces of fabric (patti) is used to write information such as:
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o Size o Name of garment part o Number( eg 1- 10) o Style no. The patti is then tied to the appropriate bundle. The place of stickering on each part is predefined but the operator does not have enough time to follow it, hence stickers are pasted at the approximate centre of the part or in such a manner that it does not come in stitching.
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Receive from cutting Sent to sewing Wrong number of plies
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5.4 Process flow

Cut pieces received from cutting with size specification and no. of plies. .
Number and size stickers pasted.
Number matching
Yes
No Correct
Info sent to cutting for extra or less no. of plies. Recounting.
Incorrect
Stickers removed and repasted.
Bundling done in number of 10 or accordingly with at least 5 plies.
Same size bundles related to each other are kept separately (Ex Sleeve, placket etc.)
Sent to the production floor on requisition.
Records maintained Apparel Internship Report 2010 ORCHID OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED AKASH ANAND & RAJIL MITTAL, DFT (2007-2011) National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
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5.4 Questionnaire
1. How is bundling done? 2. What is whole procedure/process flow? 3. What is the size of each bundle? 4. How are different pieces of a size matched? 5. How sorting and ticketing is done? 6. What is the total number of staff available in bundling? a. Number of helpers b. Number of supervisors c. Number of main workers involve in bundling 7. How materials cut parts are received? 8. What is the procedure of counting? 9. In case of block cutting , how blocks are marked? 10. What is the procedure of sorting of fusing parts? 11. How is the shortage reported? If some parts has one or more plies missing (very rare ) how is it reported? 12. What mistakes can be encountered in following departments because of the bundling department? 13. What are the major problems faced? 14. Is each and every part of any garment/size counted for number of plies? 15. What is the average time for counting a bundle of approx 250-300 pcs? 16. How does cad help in bundling? 17. What information is received from cutting room? 18. How is the information reported to the sewing department? 19. What is done with counted parts/garment? 20. Where are they stored? 21. How many pieces are bundled/counted per day? 22. How are pieces counted? Per ply or per garment?
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Chapter 6 Sampling
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6.1 Introduction
The sampling department is the department in which the buyers requirement is actually transformed into a garment based on the styles & designs given by the buyer. The buyers itself sends a design to the company of the desired garment. In any case a Sample Docket Sheet is prepared by the buyer which includes the sketch of the garment, all measurements and the trims & accessories to be used thereafter. The merchandiser who handles an order of any particular buyer, will be responsible for making the samples of that order with the help of sampling department.
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Sampling is the process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. It also contributes in the domain of product development which helps to present the quality and capability of service to the buyer. This department executes as per the specifications of buyers order and ensures any correction or alteration before starting bulk production as per buyer purchase order. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and techniques employed by the whole organization. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along with that of thread and embellishment used. Various samples which are being developed at different stages are being mentioned below: Proto Sample: Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the style. It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then checked on the dress form. The quality inspectors from the respective buying houses or the buyer checks the sample, makes the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc. Once this stage is completed, its time to move on to the next stage.
Fit Sample: the fit of the garment assumes the pivotal importance in this sample. Usually done on the substitute / actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories. It is sent directly to the buyer for necessary alterations to be made. Depending upon the changes or the comments of the buyer, the revised fit samples are made till the final approval is obtained.
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Sales Sample: The sales sample is done when the buyer requests for a certain no. of pieces for the promotion of the product yet to come. It gives the buyer certain types of feedback about his product and leaves him better equipped to decide on the production quantity. It usually consists of 6 to 7 pieces in each size and color.
Pre Production sample: Top of production sample: it is done on the actual fabric using the actual trims and the fit has to be perfect. It is simply a prelude to the actual production.
Size Set Sample: It is done according to the buyers request. It is almost equivalent of the pre production sample except that it was done in all the sizes or in the jumping sizes s per the buyers request
Gold seal sample: it is a sample which is sent to the buyer to tell as to what exactly is being made with packing.
Shipment sample: the difference shipment sample and gold seal sample is that gold seal is sent before bulk packing and shipment sample is sent after the packing of the shipment.
Salesman sample: sample which is sent to the buyer in different countries for order placement and picking up orders.
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SAMPLE: - Means a reference for something in mass volume.
6.2.2.1 Pattern making for sampling
(The first step of garment making)- Translation of a garment styling and measurements on to a paper which becomes a tool for cutting the fabric which in turn gets a shape of garment after sewing to get a required fit.
6.2.2.1 (a) Basic requirements for pattern development 1. Reference Sample and/or 2. Complete tech pack consisting details like Spec/ measurement chart Garment construction details and placements Grade rules Complete details of garment making process like washing/ embroidery/ Print etc
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6.2.2.2 Standard operating procedures Following points are taken care by the pattern masters and his helpers: Co-relation between sketch and measurement Construction of each part and the components required Identify shell and trims with the help of Bill of Materials Explain the usage of accessories and their function for placement/ allowance etc. Clear understanding of "how to measure manual" Sewing margins Shrinkage/ elongation like seam/ iron depending on the type of fabric used Other shrinkage/ elongation like seam/ iron depending on the style of fabric used Checking of patterns for the correctness of shapes/ spec/ margins/ notches with respect to the sketch/ spec provided before the same is issued to the cut the fabric Meaningful description of the style/ pattern details to be marked on the pattern 1. Buyer, style, type of fit 2. Pattern version number 3. Grain lines 4. Shrinkage elongation details 5. Pattern release date 6. Number of cuts 7. Dart name 8. Total numbering of the patterns e.g. S-1/10 Using metal sheet patterns wherever required e.g. pocket as the same undergoes iron creasing to get the shape and seam line margin so that the parts/ components does not loose shape/ measurement. Never use damaged/ torn pattern to cut the patterns
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Pattern set should always accompany with the spec chart though the same may be filed in a particular style file.
6.2.2.3 Grading in CAD Once the sample size/ base is approved then it is graded as per the space and the size range required and we also need to consider addition of allowance particularly if the fabric has any shrinkage or elongation and all points mentioned in the above points.
6.2.2.4 Proto sample making The first step (sample) from a supplier/exporter/vendor to customer/buyer, which establishes the understanding of the customer requirement basically done to ensure the corrections of styling, fit, and space are in accordance with the requirement. Then the same moves on to various number of fits before it gets converted into a pre production sample i.e. a replica of bulk production for the reference of customer to ensure on the right product from mass production. When we say various numbers of fits, which is a result of errors done by the supplier or it may be because the customer wants some changes. Hence it is very important to maintain a database of a sample at every at every at every stage which helps in making the final garment as per the buyer requirement.
6.2.2.5 Ensuring the fit Fit of the sample produced is properly approved by the merchandiser. It is in two ways: Test on live model Test on dress form
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6.2.2.6 Pre production sample Once the fit is approved the next step is pre production sample in all actual which will be a sealer for bulk production.
6.2.2.7 Size set These are done basically to ensure on the correctness of the pattern grading as per the buyer spec with all considerations of shrinkage/ placements and etc.
6.2.2.8 Sewing the samples The next step is stitching of the garment. A sample briefing is done to the operator to make sure that he is clear of the requirement if any doubts it is cleared before the cutting goes on to the machine. Also ensure that the construction of the garment is made keeping the bulk production in mind. If necessary the buyer is contacted for any changes on construction with effective explanation of the practicality of the bulk production. This is done at a very early stage.
6.2.2.9 Inputs Tech pack Sketch/Sample Detailed construction sheet Detailed illustration sheet Ready marking patterns Bill of Materials/trim card with placement How to measure manual Spec chart Buyers comment on previously submitted sample.
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6.2.2.10 Quality parameters in samppling
Fit of the sample produced
Any inherent fabric defect
Any dyeing defect
Stitch quality of the garment(SPI,GAUGE)
Complete construction of the sample
Overall look of the garment
Dummy check
6.2.2.11 Machines S. No. 1 Single needle lockstitch machine 2 3 3-thread over lock machine 5-thread over lock machine 1 2 JUKI JUKI TYPE No. of M/C 13 BROTHER MAKE
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6.2.2.12 some general procedures o There is no SAM/SMV for sampling o Sampling generally takes one week time o There is a separate cutting done for sampling o Sampling is done completely on the basis of the techpack received and the sketch of the garment o Different kind of sampling is done for different buyers. For example o For George: first of all a buying sample of base size is sent to the buyer. o For PAUL SMITH: buyer sends an original sample which has to be copied exactly along with the desired changes that are specified either on the spec sheet or on the sample itself. o For Next: number of samples sent are as follows and in sequence 1. fit sample 2. black seal sample 3. size set 4. production sample 5. gold seal sample 6. shipment sample o Letter of credit: it is generally issued by the buyer to buy fabric, trims etc for sampling before the actual confirmation of orders. o Cutting approval: sent by sampling team with comments and specifications before bulk cutting of the fabric. o All R & D are done according to the spec sheet. For example whether to use a 8mm or a 12 mm folder.
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The most important activity of the sampling department, which can make a difference to the process of sampling in the department in terms of efficiency of correctness of garment making or time management(Time Is Money)
Every style detail is maintained in a separate file and the contents of the file are easily accessible, entire history of the sample from proto sample stage to pre production sample.
Each style is labeled with all the style/buyer detail on it. All styles of a buyer are kept at one place and once the order is through it is removed to avoid confusion because of too many files. A register is maintained to record the dates from the first sample indent to the final indent of a particular style likeo Indent date received o Sample submitted o Approvals/Comments received o Indent for received fit and the process should continue o Filing of sample details. o Presentation of fit samples of every stage as it becomes a ready reference for the next stage fit. o Filing a copy of consumption chart of every fit stage given to the merchandiser and are cross checked when the style moves to the next fit and any increase in consumption, it is brought to notice of the merchandiser. However it is a responsibility of a merchandiser also. o Storage of patterns- One more important aspect of sampling department, all the patterns are numbered and kept in a sequential manner and the same is recorded in a register with a serial number so that whenever may be after three months also, it becomes easy
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to get access to the pattern. No pattern is destroyed for at least one year, or sometimes they may come across on certain issues even after shipment or may get a repeat order in which case the work of the department becomes easier.
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6.4 Process flow
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6.5 Questionnaire
What is the sampling procedure? What are the different stages of sampling? How is a sample set into a line? How is workforce decided or allocated? What are the3 different types of samples? How much time does sampling of a style take place? How much time does each sampling take? What is the process flow? How are buyer comments followed? What are the formats used? What are the numbers of workers in sampling? How is operator selected for sampling? How is cutting done for sampling?
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Chapter 7 Pre-production planning and R & D
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7.1 Introduction
Production planning and control department coordinates the activities of all the departments. It provides all the departments from sewing to dispatch with the necessary details and does a follow up of all the activities to ensure that the order is running as per the schedule date. R & D department plays an important role in the production. This department mainly concentrates on the factors which lead to the improvement of production in terms of quality. R & D department includes in the making of folders and assembly which makes the operations easy way for workers. This department controls the problems of production as well as embroidery and cutting. It will take care in Cad patterns and even in the sampling department. The main purpose of this department is to provide the better way of operations in the sewing line. This department provides the pre-production sample for the production floor and for the buyer.
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The department is responsible for tracking the status of the production in the unit and reporting the same. Each person in the PPC is given a specific buyer to follow. This gives better understanding of the customer and this helps in better buyer compliance. The activity of PPC begins with the receipt of the confirmed order. The PPC gets this information from the marketing department through a garment order processing form. GOPF has complete details on: o Product specification o Quality o Shades o Sizes o Measurements o Shipment schedule and date o Packing instruction o The country and destination port o Dispatch particulars like: - mode of transportation, type of shipment, transporters name and address.
Order priority is planned and production dates scheduled after calculation of the lead time for fabric availability and other orders on hand. They also plan the time of sewing The fabric and trim details are made on the basis of preparation of the CAD marker and knitting and processing form ( KNP) On the information given in the GOPF the patterns are prepared on the CAD and the marker is made keeping in mind the different width available. Apparel Internship Report 2010 125
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The KNP form is prepared which gives fabric width and length that provide the Maximum efficiency and sent to the fabric section. KNP is also prepared to give detail about the trims. The KNP number was also used as the reference to the order processing at all stages in all sections of the division. The total thread consumption is calculated and given to the stores to the stores to order the threads.
A purchase request for other accessories is also sent to the stores.
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7.2.2.1 Production and control activities The reports maintained by the Supply Chain Management department are the summaries of reports produced during the Production, in order to keep a control on the Production Functions. The reports are mentioned as follows:
7.2.2.1.1 Production report This report maintains the record of Batch output and the Dispatch output; cumulative figures are maintained and are updated date wise.
7.2.2.1.2
Billing report
This report maintains the record of the quantity produced and CM Cost (Cut to Make Cost) per garment is quoted by the Director-Operations. And thus the factory Cut to make value is generated for the till date stock, as the report is maintained Month wise and updated daily.
7.2.2.1.3
Shift wise production report
This report maintains the record of line wise production and shift wise too. This contains the Date, Production of the date, Cumulative production, the tailors employed for the date, and the Average (production/ tailor). The report is updated daily.
7.2.2.1.4
Line wise WIP report
This report maintains the Line wise cutting input and balance; loading input and balance; output and output balance; issue and balance. The report is maintained date wise for all the lines (style and buyer wise) together and also depicts a WIP chart of the mentioned data.
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7.2.2.1.5
Management Review report
This report maintains the stock details- opening, issued, output and closing. Along with the monthly file issued details including the date of issue, buyer, Purchase Order, quantity and Line. The report is generated and reviewed monthly and updated till date.
7.2.2.1.6
Finishing WIP report
This report maintains the buyer wise status of the loading to inspection of the garments. The report thus indicated the WIP at loading, output balance, balance from sewing, balance to send wash, balance to receive wash, balance to check, balance to press, packed, balance to pack, wait for inspection, outsourcing, in addition to these seconds and remarks are also mentioned. The report is on daily basis.
7.2.2.1.7
Dispatch report
This report maintains the brand wise dispatch details under Free on Board (FOB), Job Work, and Out Sourcing or Ware house for the month.
7.2.2.1.8
Embroidery report
This report maintains the date wise embroidery department details summarized on the basis of the manual reports generated and submitted every day by 9:30 am (as there is no shift for the embroidery dept, they work for 24 hrs a day and 20 operators are working any time of the day).
7.2.2.1.9 Factory report of the month This report is the summary of the above mentioned all the reports for a month and is updated daily.
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7.2.2.1.a REPORTS COMPRISE OF: o Date o Style o Output quantity o Stitches/ pc o Total stitches (output quantity * stitches/ pc) o Start time o Finish time o Time to change embroidery style (30 min) o No. of frames (output quantity/ no. of operator (20) ) o Lost time to change frame (no. of frames * 3 min) o Total unused min (time to change the embroidery style + lost time to change frame) o For samples lost time o Other lost time o Unused minutes (total unused min + for samples lost time + other lost time) o Total used time ((24*60 min- unused min)* (required output per day=700) * (no. of operator s=20)) o Efficiency (total stitches for the day/ total used time) o Rate o Value (output * rate) o Per day cost
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7.2.2.2 Planning PRE-PRODUCTION PRODUCTION STAGE
POST PRODUCTION
Fabric (OCR) Fabric received % Extra received Sent for cutting Total consumed
Order details Specification sheet Sample of the garment Date of shipment Input in-house status Input execution plan. Out house details Projected cut date Cutting plan Outhouse details No. Of out house operations T&A of outhouse operation Fabric approval Accessory approval Sample approval Outwork approval Has to co-ordinate between concerned merchandiser and the SPF team Has to make sure that every input is provided to the batches well within time. Input availability including fabric, accessories and machines. Accessory flow plan and control Fabric flow plan and control Daily cutting, sewing, finishing and packing status. End of production analysis
Total balance Accessory (OCR) Accessory received % Extra received Sent for production Total consumed Total balance Cutting (OCR) Fabric received for cutting Fabric cut % Extra cut Sent for production Total cutting Total balance Sewing (OCR) Cut pcs received for sewing Accessories received Cut pcs consumed Total rejection % Extra produced Problems faced during production
Production completion report Apparel Internship Report 2010 ORCHID OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED AKASH ANAND & RAJIL MITTAL, DFT (2007-2011) National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
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7.2.2.2
R & D of a style
FABRIC CUTTING ANALYSIS SEWING FINISHING
ACCESSORIES
1. Needle analysis report with recommendations for optimal utilization.
1. Report on fabric properties including shrinkage, shade and
1. Laying methods to be used while bulk cutting. 1. Sewing machine & attachments analysis. 1. Process Sequence
2. Marker feasibility analysis and fabric saving
2. R&D team to find best operator for best 2. Ironing equipment, method & recommended
2. Thread strength, shade and elongation report.
strength.
techniques while marking. operations. 2. Fabric shrinkage report 3..Cutting method recommendation 3. Bulk fabric width report 4. Lay width / No fixation. 3. Sewing process standardization, and will be done keeping in mind the practical problems in the mass 4. Fabric washing report 5. Cutting equipment study production. and recommendation 4. Line balancing techniques, problems 6. Type of fusing or interlining to be used. 6. Possible fabric defects in cutting and methods for tackling those defects. 7. Fusing & interlining analysis report. & remedies based on the pilot done in R&D for achieving GSD target
temperature for ironing.
3. Accessory testing report study, problems during bulk production and solutions.
3. Ironing problems with remedies
4. Folding method, problems during bulk & remedies
4. Possible defects and remedies while using specific accessories during bulk production.
5. Sew ability report
5. Packing problems & remedies with standard method for maximum productivity
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FABRIC
ACCESSORIES EMBROIDERY
OUTWORK
SAMPLE
Gsm Lab dip Washing Shrinkage Strength Fastness Crocking Pilling Fiber content Absorption Elongation
Thread approval
Embroidery placement
Various out work approval
Sample approval for: o Accessory placement. o Stitching
Other trim approval
Embroidery thread
according to the specification.
Embroidery properties. outwork sample Embroidery sample
specification o Quality specification o Measurement
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7.2.2.3
Devising new methods
It is the job of the R & D to device new methods to perform an operation in a simpler and faster manner to aid production. For example using of folders, method study etc.
7.2.2.3.1 JUGAAD In a small scale industry not capable of buying expensive equipments and aids, jugaad is the answer to solve many problems and make production easier. The backtacking lever is tied to the machine on which dart is being stitched to aid in half pulling down of lever to give condense stitch. They use the DST as the guide to save money. Use a small packet/cloth filled with sand at the end of the pressure foot to give gathering effect.
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7.3
Method study sheet Time study sheet
RECORDS MAINTAINED
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7.4 Process flow

7.4.1 Pre-production
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7.4.2 R & D
R & D approval sheet goes to each department with comments
Re work by those department which needs improvement
R & D re- confirms the sample
Pattern Seal
Size Set sends to the buyer
CAD pattern & specs & Sample (pre-production sample made by the sampling department), A 4 cad pattern )
Cross - Checking
Pattern approval sheet (Prepared by R & D head)
Sample & A4 cad sheet forward to cutting department
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Combined meeting (I.E, Cutting, Production, emb.head (if emb is in the style)
2-piece cutting
R & D 2-piece stitching
Re-check (By head of R & D dept)
Style feedback (by tailor)
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Chapter 8 Finishing and packaging
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8.1 Introduction
Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look. In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes. It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free from defects. Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained. This department comes under the production department.
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8.2.1.1 Finishing and packaging The finishing department plays a very important role in production as it may correct the flaws of all the other departments such as cutting, sewing etc. The finishing process involves the following stages Washing: this removes all the dirt, stains that may come on the garment due to rash handling on the floor. Thread cutting: this process removes all extra threads that are left on the garment to give it a neat finish. General checking: this is done to check for stitching defects and to check the measurements so that they can be mended or adjusted in pressing. Spotting: it is a chemical based process to remove spots from the garment which were not removed in washing. Pressing: to give the final shape to the garment and adjust its measurements. Needle detection: to check the garment for any traces of metal or harmful pieces. Cleaning and folding: garment is folded as per specifications by the buyer.
After this the garment is sent to packing where it is packed into poly bags and then cartons respectively.
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8.2.1.2 Standards in finishing department Approval on kaaj button to be available Approval on hand work to be available(sometime hand stitch is present on the style so this process is completed in finishing department) Approval on thread cutting Approval on dry cleaning / washing is available. Pressing method to be available Temperature & steam usage to be available Checking methodology to be available Daily a minimum of 32 pcs at random must be spec recorded at the department, which must be done by the finishing department Q.A How to measure diagrams must be available on the display board. Packaging standard signed off by the merchant to be handling the particular style Garments to be sorted size wise before the tags/price tickets are fixed on to them Finished packed garments to be offered for audits in small lots with the size Auditors must verify the size wise qty and take random sampling and audit visual The audit result must be recorded progressively lot wise and must be available displayed. Final audit must be conducted for count accuracy, carton audit, visuals, and spec and the report issued, before the goods are offered to buyers final inspection This final inspection to be conducted by corporate independent QA team Spotting should be done in a separate room for spotting There should be a mat to stand upon for the pressers to avoid electric shock. All the cutting equipments, e.g. thread trimmers and scissors etc. should be tied to a string to avoid any harm or accidents. Tag gun should also be tied. There should be no chemicals in finishing area except for the spotting room.
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The general processes followed in finishing at Orchid Overseas Pvt. Ltd. can be listed as follows.
8.2.2.1 Button marking & Attachment: This process starts after the auditing done by the Q.A. firstly; they mark the button placing and button holing mark on garment with reference to each other. They have a cardboard placket having holes with the reference of the particular garment. Secondly, the cardboard they have is provided by the R & D department they are using pencil for the marking purpose. Then after the marking operator attach the buttons and give button holing on the marks. After that Q.A checks the placement of buttons and buttons holes by closing the buttons. There is a random inspection for this i.e. 10% random inspection with AQL level of 2.5%.
8.2.2.2 Thread trimming: In this process operators take a trimmer and trim all the unwanted threads from the garment. They have approved sample of the process.
8.2.2.3 General checking and mending This process proceeds after trimming process which involves general checking and inspection of flaws or faults of stitching. The faults are corrected or mended by the menders there and then or sent back to the production floor in case of big defects. The menders are provided with necessary equipments such as combs, needle, thread etc to mend small defects/flaws in the piece.
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8.2.2.4 Spotting: In this process they have two spotting machine which clears the marks of chalk, oil mark from the machine and all other dirty marks that came across the whole process. Machine specifications: Desc: - PEDROLLO Model no. : - km / - 63/2 Voltage: - 220 230 v Ampere: - 3 A Operators are using masks and gloves during the process. There is a separate room for spotting. Chemicals used in spotting Acetone Emyl Solvents like kerosene etc.
8.2.2.5 Loose threads: After spotting garments came across the process of loose threads mainly this process across in the garments having embroidery. In this process 100% inspection is covered. This process also covers the garments made of Georgette fabric because in this garment during stitching some of the pics get stretched so for this they have instrument which consists of two tubes which are placed vertically on the board with higher diameter than the normal tubes i.e. V - shape. What they done is they just put garment on the tubes and paste the sticker on the stretched parts after this marking the defected garments going for combing this process comb the area where sticker is placed the operator using water and comb for this process.
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8.2.2.6 Measurement: In this process there is a 100% measurement of each part of the garment. For this process they have a measurement chart of each size and method of measuring of each part. They have a format which contains the measurement of each part with the tolerance level this measurement chart is different with different buyer. The operators record the each tolerance and give it to the quality auditor and mark green sticker on the part which is below and higher than the tolerance level.
8.2.2.7 Pressing: After measurement process garments forward towards the pressing tables. Pressing section have approved sample with method of pressing and the amount of steam. This section consists of 18 pressing tables.
8.2.2.8 Measurement after pressing: After pressing there is another round of measurement even in this process there is a 100% inspection but not for the whole garment only for the critical areas. This critical area format is prepared by the quality director after inspecting the 1 st five pieces.
8.2.2.9 Checking of marks: In this process operators take care of marks and spots during pressing. This process also comes under 100% inspection.
8.2.2.10 Final Inspection: Now its a time for final inspection which takes care of all the things.
8.2.2.11 Folding: After final inspection, folding takes place in this section how to fold format is available and the approved sample.
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8.2.2.12 Needle Detecting: After folding this is the last exam for the garment i.e. needle detection. Hashima provides this service to the industry needle. There are only two machines available in the industry on each floor with speed of 5 garments/min.
8.2.2.13 Tagging In this process which follows needle detection, appropriate tags are attached to the garment by the workers or taggers.
8.2.2.14 Polybag packaging After tagging packaging takes place in the poly bag as per of buyer requirement sometimes buyer wants paper folding. After this the garments are dispatched to packing department. Sizes of poly bags used 8 * 12 14 * 18 12 * 16 4 * 22
The packaging department has the following functions: To ensure that no defected garment are packed. To do 100% dummy checking of the garment. To segregate the pieces in accordance to the ratio provided in the purchase order. To ensure that the garments are packed in correct size of poly-bags with correct trims on it. Attaching the price ticket and necessary tags to the garments. Putting the garments into poly-bags and into the cartons as required. The garments are pre packed and then finally packed.
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Keeping the record of number of garments finished and packed on daily basis. To maintain the production flow by ensuring that there are no backlogs created due to packaging.
8.2.2.15 Size sorting and carton packing First of all the garments are sorted according to the sizes. A ratio blister is then prepared as specified by the buyer as to what number of garments (ratio) has to be packed in each carton. This ratio is given by the buyer either on the spec sheet or the purchase order. Carton sticker: a carton sticker is prepared which contains the following details of the carton o style number of the garment o Company name (Orchid Overseas Pvt. Ltd.) o Buyer o Country name (where it has to be sent) o Size ratio blister Sizes of poly bags used o 20 * 22 * 24 o 60 * 30 * 40 o 60 * 30 * 20 o 60 * 40 * 40 o 63 * 52 * 30
8.2.2.16 Problems due to finishing Sometimes the piece or garment gets cut while thread cutting which has to be sent back for part replacement. Chemicals might get dropped which may result in permanent spot or stain.
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8.2.2.17 Trims used in finishing o Hand needle o Buttons o Thread o Blade o Thread trimmer o Tags o Poly bags o Tag gun o Hangers o Collar patti o Alpins o Card board o Tissue paper o Clip o Thermocole sheet o Collar tie
8.2.2.18 hierarchy 8 checkers- 4 tables 8 checkers- 4 tables 2 final checkers 1 measurement checker 2 cleaners 2 poly bag packers 2 folding men 5 menders
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8.2.2.19 Packing parameters Carton size The carton size depends on the buyers specifications. It is according to the number of pieces that are to be packed, the folded size of the individual garment and the amount of space that the buyer requires in the carton to be empty. No of pieces in the carton It is specified by the buyer in the bill of material. No of plies in the carton This specification is given by the buyer and is different for different buyers. Polybags to be used This is also different for different buyers. Tape to be used The tape to be used is also specified by the buyer. e.g.:- NIKE uses the printed tape of Arvind mills limited. Number of tags The number of tags is also specified by the buyer and this has to be strictly followed. even one tag missing causes the piece to go for alter The store has two trolleys for transportation of cartons from one place to other. For the despatch purpose there are different size containers that are used. These containers are identified as: s.no 1 2 3 Size 20 feet 40 feet High Cube (42-45 ft.) Capacity 16000-17000 pcs 33000 pcs 36000 pcs
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8.2.2.20 Hanger packing There is a special kind of packing called HANGER PACKING in which the ready goods are not packed in the carton. Rather these pieces are individually hanged in the hanger and then the entire shipment is despatched accordingly.
For the purpose of hanger packing the hangers that are used are according to the specifications and pertaining to a specific buyer. Once the pieces are hanger packed these are made ready to be loaded in the container in a way that does not disturb the packing.
For this a 12 bar rope is used. Every alternate bar is used to hang 5 hangers and then the entire rope is vertically hung in the container. The bar has the capacity of carrying more than 5 hangers but keeping the quality issues in mind only 5 hangers are put. In case of hanger packing the capacity of 40 ft container is restricted to 26000 to 27000 pcs.
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8.3 RECORDS MAINTAINED

Thread cutting report Input received from sewing Alteration report ( no. of pieces sent for alteration) Mending report Daily finishing report Needle detection report
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8.4 Process flow

8.4.1 Finishing
100 % checking from the end line sewing
Button attachment (if any)
Thread trimming
Washing
Initial checking (finishing head)
Spotting
Checking of loose threads
Embroidery threads missing
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Measurement (100 %)
Pressing
Measurement (100%) after pressing
Checking of iron marks after pressing
Final Checking (100%)
FOLDING
Internal audit / 2 hrs
Packaging in polybag with tags and dispatch to packaging department
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8.4.2 Packaging
Tech pack of packaging
Quota paper requisition
As received the cardboards they start making the cartons as of buyer requirement
Cartons approved by Production director
Receiving packed garments
Sorting size wise and colour wise
Placing the garments by flat or by hanging method
Sticking the required stickers on the cartons
Practising in the placement for cartons

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Quality check
Approval of shipment
Chalan for the transporter who carried the shipment
Invoice received from transporter
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8.5 Questionnaire
1. What is the finishing process actually? 2. What all is done in finishing? 3. How many workers are there in finishing department? 4. How many helpers and checkers are there? 5. What all are the different equipment in finishing room? a. Finishing tables? b. Pressing tables? c. Checking tables? d. Spot guns? e. Number of operators? 6. How is pressing done? 7. How are seams of garments flattened? Any special equipment used? 8. How are pleats made permanently? 9. How is creasing done? 10. What all are the quality points to be checked while finishing? 11. How is folding done? 12. How are number of folds decided? 13. How is packaging done? 14. How is the packaging mode decided? 15. What is the process flow? 16. What all are the materials used in finishing? 17. How is a piece rejected? 18. What is the alteration process? 19. How is a rejected piece sent for alteration? 20. What is the % rejection? 21. What are the defects due to finishing? 22. What all are the general defects checked for in finishing? 23. How is washing done? 24. What are the chemicals used?
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25. How is material transported to washing from finishing? 26. How frequent inspection is done before packing? 27. What are the different machines used? a. Needle detection? b. Form finisher? Etc. 28. How are reports maintained? 29. What is average cut to ship ratio? 30. What all are trims used in packing and finishing? 31. What is the efficiency of finishing room? 32. Is there any QA? 33. What all points are checked for quality? 34. What are the packing specifications given by the buyers? 35. How frequent is the buying house QA visit?
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Chapter 9 Quality assurance
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9.1 Introduction
It is the objective of any manufacturer to offer his customers first quality merchandise. The purpose of the quality control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting their high standards. in addition quality control program can help them in their operations quality control program , spot and reject defective items , and more importantly pinpoint production operations that need special attention thereby reducing the future production failures. This type of quality control provides a basis for management decisions in the plant. Quality is Fit for use Conformance to requirements When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy When it is defect free When it has a long life When it has good wear ability and wash ability
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Quality can be defined as something which is right the first time, or can be said as following the standards been developed by making the specifications and documenting hem in such a way that they can be communicated to all the employees of the organization. It is a pre dominant factor of a buyer buying the garments from the exporter and a important consideration while placing the order. As of the high fashion garment industry quality is the most important part of the factory. This department checks out all the operation from sewing to finishing to packaging. This department follows high profile procedure to control the quality of the garment and to follow the quality they promised to the buyer.
9.2.1.1
General check points
Stores: - From the stores a piece is cut from the roll of fabric and then taken to the testing lab. Cutting: - this is the most important department for every industry so quality is the most important aspect for this department. Sewing: - A 100% inspection is done inline as well as end of line. Dry processing: - After the garments are stitched and if they have any dry processing operation on them then at the time of garments is taken from the sewing floor they are checked by the equality checkers
Washing - Before washing normally the quality check is not done as it is done before dry processing and thus this quality check ensure the quality of good coming to washing, after washing the shade are matched according to the shade band prepared and if the shade is not matching to the band or is not lying in the range then it is rejected.
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Finishing - This section has most number of quality checking point starting from the middle checking wherein the garment is checked from inside as well as outside, then it goes for a final check wherein the quality is checked by looking at the top side of the garment and giving it for the alteration if required. From there the garment goes for the measurement checking so as to ensure the fit of the garment. Lastly the garment is checked for its presentation and packed.
Finishing: -- Final Audit is done internally (by quality auditor) as well as externally (by buyer's QC). They use statistical Quality Control as their tool as check few pieces so as to get the idea of the lot.
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9.2.2 Secondary Survey

9.2.2.1 Work instruction
All the checkpoints should contain a comprehensive brief of the quality specifications that are to be checked by the QC at that check point .there has to be a written document at the table of the checker which should contain style wise all the quality specifications that are to be taken care of . It should also give the quality checking system that has to be followed by the checker. Various quality checkpoints in the process Fabric audit Cut part inspection End line inspection - 100% Audit Filter point Rechecking Post pressing inspection Final audit
9.2.2.1.1
Fabric audit
Fabric audit system works on the 4-point system. From the fabric received by the Garmenting department 10% fabric is audited. The fabric has already been inspected 100% in the knits section. The knitting QC grades the fabric as per the defect points in four grades and sends it to the fabric audit in the garmenting division. Grades the Fabric A B BL C <10 10-24 10-24 with shade variation within rolls >24 of Defect Points Maximum Garments Rejects 2% 4% 8% 25% 161
9.2.2.1.2
Cut parts inspection
There is a cut part inspection table at the starting of each line. It is from this point only that 100% checking of the cut panels coming from the preparatory department / warehouse is done and fed into the line. Basic inspections at cut part inspection Counting number of panels Keeping them in bundles one above the other Registering the faults and quantities of the cut panels checked Check for mismatch in shades between panels of a garment or within a set and avoid them Check hole in the fabric of the panels and reject the panels Body fabric or component part is inverted or opposite of normal arrangement Check the fabric of panels for irregular or distorted construction of any type of irregular spot. Check panels for dyeing streaks, needle line, and slub in fabric. Check panel for imbalance or symmetrical mismatch, break in print, faded print or misplaced print. Check fabric bowing, it should not be more than inches over full body width of the fabric.
9.2.2.1.3
End line checking
Complete checking of 100% garment with respect to sewing, fabric, trims & accessories. Segregation of garments in the categories fresh, seconds, alter & rejects & give the pieces of category alter to the respective line in charge for alteration. Segregation of garments with spots. Measurement checking Counting number of pieces and entering them into register Segregation of garment with mending and rechecking.
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9.2.2.1.4
Basic quality flaws due to stitching
Substitution of seam type substitution of stitch class Stitch count more or less than the specified tolerance Broken stitch Needle marks Open seam Conspicuous seam repair Conspicuous waste seam into the outside of the garment Conspicuous pleat formed into seam Seam puckering Wavy stitching Fraying of fabric Raw edge that could affect durability/appearance Run off stitching Mismatch of thread color Skip stitch Seam closure uneven Variation in length of collar point Imbalance or asymmetric parts of a garment Drill hole exposed Marking exposed Missing parts in a garment De-lamination and bubbling due to incorrect fusing Discoloration of fabric due to fusing
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9.2.2.1.5
Audit
Here 10 % garments of all lots are randomly checked. The report is made of three Garments only. The defect in the final audit is divided into major or minor faults. Three minor faults make one major fault. If the whole lot is rejected then it is again sent to the final checker for final inspection and after re-inspection the pieces are sent.
9.2.2.1.6
Filter points
Checking garments for stains before pressing Checking garments for loose and uncut threads Checking garments for embroidery, buttonholing, button attaching, and bar- tacking,
Here the garments are inspected 100% for any defects and the pieces are divided into four categories: contamination fabric faults spotting seconds
The garments which are categorized in the four categories are sent to the respective buyers / points for various actions to be taken.
9.2.2.1.7
Rechecking
Seconds of the end line check point are received at this point. They do following activities: put the IR tag recheck the pieces record the faults as per the categories Segregate the pieces as per the operation required and send them for that operation.
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9.2.2.1.8
Post pressing inspection
Basic quality inspection defective button buttonhole stitches cut / raveling button not securely sewn stitches too narrow causing buttonhole to separate from fabric incomplete button hole non-aligned button / buttonhole tilted/non-aligned embroidery unsecured embroidery burned/scorched pressing balancing of garment aesthetic of garment
9.2.2.1.9
On line audit
At this stage audit of 10 % samples is done after polybag packing. Basic quality audit check points: Failure of previous inspections Wrong hang tags Folding size Presentation Damaged polybags Size of the unit marked on the package differs from the size marked on the unit inside the package. Loose thread or other foreign matter in package or on garment.
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9.2.2.1.10 Inspection points Fabrics (100% inspection of griege as well as finished fabrics) Audit GR (Ready for garments) Cutting CPI Embroidery or printing Inspection Re-bundling Feeding Check Inline Check End of line check Finishing Inspection Inline Audit Caring Inspection Final Audit Inspection of fabric Physical Inspection 4-Point System Buyer accepts 24 points in 100 sq. Yards.
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9.3

Records maintained
Measurement sheet (page 237) End line checking report (appendix 15.20) Audit summary report (appendix 15.12) Visual inspection report (trims) (appendix 15.27) Stitching inspection report (appendix 15.24)
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9.4 Process flow
Fabric inspection
Cut part inspection
Mid line inspection
End of line inspection
Final inspection
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9.5 Questionnaire
Q.1 What all are the quality parameters? Q.2 How is quality checked ? Q.3 What is done to maintain quality? Q.4 What are different quality AQL levels? Q.5 What standards are to be maintained ? Q.6 Is there any quality certificate ? Q.7 What are the buyers demand for quality ? Q.8 What is the general process? Q.9 What are the different stages / types of quality approvals ? Q.10 What is the hierarchy? Q.11 Is quality dealt with the buyer QA directly or through merchandiser? Q.12 What are the different formats used? Q.13 What are general quality check points? Q.14 What all are the duties of QA? Q.15 How does QA deal with the buyer QA? Q.16What are the different stages of Quality inspection in each department? Q.17 What is a QA file and what does it consist of? Q.18 Streangth of a QA team in a export house ?
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Chapter 10 Pattern making and CAD
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10.1 Introduction
This is the department where the actual base of the garment is prepared i.e. the patterns are made and rectified. It is here that a detail specified on the spec sheet is converted into a garment. The function of the CAD department is to do the same through the use of computer (computer aided designing).
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10.2.1.1 Pattern making The main role of the pattern making department is to make the patterns on account of the specifications and measurements as specified by the buyer and the sketch oh the garment or the garment provided by the buyer.
10.2.1.2 CAD CAD system is developed to assist rather than restrict the creative process. This system performs repetitive and time-consuming tasks, freeing designers to focus on the creative development process. This approach is unique and much more productive than techniques used in traditional systems and the increased speed dramatically shortens the product development cycle, which in turn, increases profitability. The sampling department is responsible for developing patterns according to the tech pack provided by the buyer or the specification by the designer. These manually made patterns are fed into the computer system by the process of digitizing. CAD is then used to grade and make the marker by checking the available length and width of the fabric roll. Spreading and Cutting is done according to the marker plan.
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After the approval of the final sample, the process of pattern making starts. For this, first of all, the merchandiser hands over the approved garment sample along with the spec sheet to the pattern making department. The spec sheet is prepared by the buyer and contains each and every minute measurement of each part of the garment. It also mentions the shrinkage to be added in the pattern. With the help of this spec sheet, the pattern maker team prepares a basic pattern. This pattern is being checked by the merchandiser as well as by the Quality manager for accuracy. Then this manual made pattern is handed over to the CAD (Computer Aided Design) department for the development of rest patterns. The CAD (Computer Aided Design) department digitizes the basic pattern on a digitizer to use it for grading purpose. Then the graded patterns are made with the help of a plotter. Then again all these patterns are approved by the pattern master, merchandiser and the quality manger before issuing it to the cutting department. After the approval of the patterns, the CAD (Computer Aided Design) department use to prepare the markers of various kinds to calculate per garment fabric consumption, cost, etc.
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10.2.2.1 Requirements of the pattern making and the CAD department The pattern making and the CAD department required following information before coming up with fabric consumption, pattern and marker for a particular PO: Tech pack provided by the buyer, spec sheet, construction details and sample (if available). Fabric details like cut-able width, content, shrinkage, repeat size, fabric design etc. Consumption of the trims associated with the garment. Each and every pattern developed in the department contains the following details: Grain line Size Part name PO number Notch marks Drill Marks
10.2.2.2 Documents maintained The documents maintained in the department were: Pattern indent file of a particular Purchase Order A separate file was maintained which contained the basic patterns, graded patterns and the markers associated with a particular Purchase Order. Hard patterns of the Purchase Order.
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10.2.2.3 Software used The CAD softwares used at ORCHID are Diamino 3.1 Modaris 3.oc5
It is the software tool for pattern engineering, grading and marker planning for supplying the sewing section with accurate cut parts. It incorporates styling and functional features like dart intake, pleats turning and balance, grain line adjustments, flipping of patterns, pitch point placements, drill marking, size an order representation, fabric width adjustment, garment balance, n-way size combinations, seam allowance adjustment, grading, nesting, etc. with user friendly controls and applications. Some of the benefits of this software are as follows: Accurate patterns and their grading Tightest markers Feed accurate cut parts to the sewing section Translates pattern engineering skills into organizational knowledge
10.2.2.4 Digitizer The department also has a digitizing board (digitizer) to read paper patterns to edit them through the software. NUMONICS CORPORATION 101
Digitizing is a process of implementing the pattern of a particular style which are fed into the computer system by using a digitizer and specially designed cursor for computerized marker making.
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10.2.2.4.1 Process of digitizing The paper patterns are one on one placed on digitizer with the help of magic tape. The pattern should be free from any folds and the grain line of the patterns should be parallel to x-axis. Before plotting the points of pattern information such as an order name, pattern description, and grain line are fed into the system. Every corner of the pattern is traced by the cursor so as to get the exact shape of the pattern. A number of points are plotted when a curve is to be plotted. Internal detailing such as pockets also done on the digitizing board. Once all the information is correctly fed into the system, then only the computer software accepts the particular pattern and saves it on the system. These digitized patterns are thus ready for grading.
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10.2.2.5 Grading Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master pattern pieces to create larger or smaller size. The starting point can be the smallest size or the middle size. Grading alters the over all size of a design but not its general shape and appearance. Grading is done according to the requirement of buyer. Each buyer has different origin and different place so the measurements are graded accordingly to the measurement chart. These measurements are provided by the buyer in the tech pack. Once all information is correctly entered in the system software, the patterns are graded automatically. The sample size pattern is entered into the system with a co-ordinate digitized. The digitizer is a device that converts graphically presented piece information into digital form by changing a precise X and Y coordinate location into a numeric definition acceptable to the computer. Grade rules are determine from the size specification for the product. They are precise instruction to the computer defining how for the specialized pattern points should move in the horizontal and vertical direction for each size change. Pattern data are verified through the interactive display. Most grading errors appears on the screen as stacked or nested points and can be corrected by the operator with light pen or stylus by changing grade rule or altering the pattern as designed. Graded patterns are then printed out on the plotter in either full or reduce scale. Hard paper patterns are made from soft paper full size plot by gluing the full size soft paper plots onto the pattern.
10.2.2.6 Cut order planning Though this is the job of the planning department, it is sometimes done in the CAD department itself as to how the markers are to be prepared. This is done with the help of the planner and the cutting master.
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10.2.2.7 Marker making Marker is the best possible arrangement of all pattern pieces in the available width of the fabric so has to utilize minimum fabric and reduce fabric wastage. When all the required information is fed into the system by the digitizing the patterns are ready for marker making. The system allows the recall and arrangement of patterns on the monitor screen, according to given technological requirements. Individual pieces can be moved around the screen using a mouse, to produce an optimized layout. For a dyed fabric, fabric shade varies in widthexample lighter shade at the salvages and dark shades at the central portion. Hence care must be taken while placing the patterns in the marker so that all pattern pieces of one particular garment full on area of the fabric with the same shade. The system is programmed to calculate material utilization i.e. efficiency and cutting waste. Before making the final marker, a combination of pattern arrangements, in a given width, are made so as to achieve maximum efficiency. For a particular order, number of markers is made to achieve required size ratio for each marker lay plan is made, which helps in spreading. The cutting instructions for respective lays are sent directly (online) to fully automatic cutting machine. Each marker contains certain annotation like: Piece name Size Bundle Number Buyer Work Order Number Cut Number Shade Of The Fabric
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10.2.2.8 Plotter Though the cut plan is sent directly to the cutter through the system software, it is also necessary to have a hard copy of a marker. The marker is printed with the help of Gerber plotter and spread on top of the lay. This helps in recognition of garment parts after cutting .
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Mini markers Cut order plans
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10.4 Process flow

Patterns received from pattern master with spec sheet.
Digitizing of patterns on tukaCAD using digitizer
Average calculated on diamino.
Average sent to merchant.
No Approved
Average sent to the buyer.
Approved
Sampling sent to the buyer for feedback
New average calculated on buyers feedback and patterns are corrected on CAD
No
Approve
Yes
New average calculated for fabric order placement (with allowance) Apparel Internship Report 2010 ORCHID OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED AKASH ANAND & RAJIL MITTAL, DFT (2007-2011) National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
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Sent to merchant for approval
Fabric order placed
Grading done
Sent for approval by pattern master
Yes
Cut order planning
Sent to approval by pattern/cutting master
Marker made with highest efficiency possible and avrg.
No
Mini markers for approvals
Yes
Plotting CAD CAM machine Sent to the cutting department
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Chapter 11 Maintenance
183
11.1 Introduction
The maintenance department 2 Provides the necessary machines, instruments & appliances necessary to carry out the manufacturing function of the organization. 3 4 Facilitates the department with necessary work aids & work environment. Serves the employees with necessary personal needs like drinking water, toilets, etc. 5 Maintains all the machines, instruments, appliances, facilities & services in appropriate condition.
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11.2.1.1 Maintenance The maintenance department is responsible not only for the Maintenance of the Machine but is also responsible for providing & maintaining the facilities for the production of the activities e.g. illumination air circulation, work place engineering, compressed air , etc. The condition & working of the machines & working atmosphere in the department is mainly depend on the care taken & working habits of the operators & all other floor employees So, it is very important to have good Working habits & maintain them. This requires regular training to all the employees related to Shop floor.
MACHINES 1. CMD to get style bulletin, min 3 days in advance.
MECHANICS
ATTACHMENTS
TOOLS 1. Every tool required for fixing machines or attachments should be with the mechanic of the
1. One mechanic for 1. Any attachment or each batch to be ready all the time. folders required should be ready two days before the
2. Machine to be set within one hour of last piece loading of one style.
2. Mechanic has to be highly skilled in F/L machines & to have enough expertise in other machines as well.
loading time.
2. In case of nonavailability of attachments or
batch.
2. Tools have to be
folders IED should be in peak condition. contacted urgently
3. One extra machine in each category has to be allocated to the 3. Extra mechanics to be provided on
during R&D Stage. 3. Extra bobbins, cases and needles 185
batch setting day for 3. Fixing of

batches in peak condition of 75% efficiency.
attachment and folder removal or fixation as per the requirement.
attachments for the
to be given to the
new batch to be done batch mechanic within a 1 hour time frame & should be given the topmost
4. Extra machines have to be with all threading and bobbin in place. 4. Incase of absenteeism of the mechanic, new mechanic of the 5. Extra machines to be checked everyday to ensure that they are working. 5. Mechanic training to be conducted 6. Machine to be problem free before they are put back in the batch. once every fortnight to find out his efficiency level. same skill have to be provided without delay.
priority.
4. No attachment during working hours and any extra attachment in the batch only after 5:30pm or before 9:00am.
5. Maximum use of attachment and folders to be encouraged.
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11.2.1.1.1
Functions of the department
1. Attain to the breakdown of machines. 2. Periodic machine maintenance. 3. Maintenance of the needle breakage report. 4. Providing folder and attachments to the operators. 5. Assisting the operator in knowing the machinery. 6. Replace the broken parts of the machine. 7. Before installing the new machine, getting full knowledge of the machine. 8. Preventive maintenance schedule is prepared. 9. To set up the line as instructed in the sewing program. 10. To carry out the regular cleaning and oiling of the entire machine. 11. Replace the necessary parts of the machine on regular intervals.
11.2.1.2 Service Maintenance department has to extend their services to the production department by providing them the required work-aids at proper time & of correct quality, clean & healthy working atmosphere, personal need sufficing aids, etc.
11.2.1.3 Machine maintenance For machine to work in good condition their upkeep is necessary. There are four types of maintenance a) Breakdown Maintenance b) Corrective Maintenance c) Preventive Maintenance d) Scheduled Maintenance
11.2.1.3.a Breakdown maintenance This type of maintenance is carried out when machine / appliance stops completely & is not in condition to be operated. This is carried out as and when the problems are highlighted by concerned operators in the shop floor.
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11.2.1.3.b Corrective maintenance When the maintenance is carried out for the correction of the problem served while machine is running.
11.2.1.3.c Preventive maintenance The basic objective of this checking is to take precaution breakdowns which are caused by certain well defined parameters in machine / process. This type carried when a problem is predicted before it can cause a trouble. It thus prevents the trouble.
11.2.1.3.d Scheduled maintenance In this stage a certain checking schedule is framed which would include parameters to be checked, frequency of checking and next due date for rechecking. This type of maintenance is carried out on the parts of the machine/appliances to avoid the problems which otherwise would normally occur. Thus, it is another form of the preventive maintenance.
11.2.1.4 Need of maintenance This system demands Zero Breakdown of machines. There should not be any work stoppage due to machinery fault. If machine breaks down, then work stops, leading to whole line sitting idle
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11.2.2
Secondary survey
The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility equipment maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines.
11.2.2.1
Maintenance schedule
Maintenance was scheduled on daily, weekly and monthly basis based on type of machine. For example lockstitch machine had weekly as well as monthly maintenance. Sometimes corrective maintenance was done to repair faulty machinery. Machine maintenance mainly consisted of Cleaning Oiling and greasing Change of parts if necessary Checking belt tension Oiling of all brushes. Checking of limit switches. Cleaning by chemical
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11.2.2.2
House keeping
The maintenance department also has the duty to have good housekeeping. They need to do housekeeping for the same on weekly basis & maintain the floor & wall in good condition, cleaning of the humidification plant ducts, etc.
Machine Hand Cutter Band Knife End Cutter, Die Cutting Machine GGT Spreader Fusing machine, bottom hemmer
Day Monday, Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Sunday Sunday
11.2.2.2.1 House keeping schedule Shop floor and office area brooming 9,12,2,5,8:30,11 Waste collection and dispose Printer and computer Computer table Office chairs Window and door panel Office file storage rack(outside) Overhead lights Cooler Office file storage rack(inside) 8,12,3,6,8:30,11 Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Once in a month Once in a month Twice a month
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11.2.2.3
Needle handling
The company had a rule to maintain a record of the needle given to the operator along with the operator name to avoid needle detection in final stages. A new needle was issued only if the operator submits the old needle or all parts of the broken needle which were maintained in a special register containing used and broken needle records.
11.2.2.3.1 The needle replacement procedure The needle replacement was done to ensure the elimination of new, used or broken needles from the garments. The needle was issued to the operators on return of the used, broken needles by the needle record keeping person. She carried the stock of needles relevant to the machines operating on the sewing floor. When a needle broke, the machine operator was responsible for locating all the broken parts of the needle. A file is maintained for the record of the used and broken needles. The broken needle parts were pasted in the format and all the needed related formats were to be filled in. They also used hand metal detectors for locating all the broken parts of a needle when reported to the needle record keeping person.
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11.2.2.3.2 Needle control policy
1) 2) 3) 4)
All spare welders to be held by a nominated person in a secured place. Operators should not possess any spare needles. Needles must be allocated on one to one replacement system. Records of all broken needle incidents should be preserved. These records must be completed at the time of occurrence.
5)
When needles get broken, every effort should be made to locate all fragments.
6)
The broken party must be securely attached to the record sheet in order to prove all parts have found. These records must be available for audit on demand.
7)
Old or work out needles should be disposed of in a sealed container. Broker needles should be disposed of in sealed containers after the audit.
8)
No broker are used needles should be found at on near machines / factory floors.
9)
Dins, staples, wire or metal ships should not be used in and around machines or at factory floors.
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11.2.2.3.3
Broken needle replacement procedure
1) 2) 3) 4)
Search the parts of needle when broken. Collect the party & give it to helper and take a new one. Contact the persons responsible for needle. The party is to be collected for the helper than verify that and issue one was needle. Keep those parts in one record book & take signature arm supervisor and operator. If you dont get parts search with the help of magnet. If you dont get the needle then collect the garments around 3 feet of the machine & give it to supervision.
5) 6)
7) 8)
The supervisor has to taker the garment to metal detector. If they get that needle parts they have to rectify that garment otherwise reject. If they dont get the needle then they use to place a sticker of rejected on the garment.
9)
11.2.2.4 Daily activities of this department include following checking's-: Thread tension Overlock tension Overlock blade sharpness Oil flow Oil level Belt covers and filters Needles-bent/ blunt Worm eye groove Clean link from clutch/pulley Motor and in passages Motor pulley guards
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11.2.2.5 Following to be checked every 15 days Check oil filter Check v- belt Check air filters
11.2.2.6 Other activities-: Change oil once in six months Check clutch/brake adjustment once in two months Complete thread clearance to be checked on every Saturday
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11.2.2.7 Machines in the industry Machine SNLS Goldstar Unicorn Juki Brother Total 5 thread Overlock Pegasus Yamato Juki Total 6 thread overlock 4 thread overlock Edge cutter Fusing machine Flatlock DNLS Juki Brother Pickstitch Smocking needles) Goldstar mchine(33 Kansai 3 1 1 1 Pegasus Yamato Juki DLM 5200 Aura 550 Pegasus 18 9 1 28 4 1 5 1 2 163 69 86 33 351 Make Number
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FOA Zig zag stitch Bartack
Juki Goldstar
1 3
Juki Brother Button attach Chain stitch Single needle Double needle Blind stitch Blanket stitch Juki Juki Brother Protex Juki
1 1 2
1 1 3 1
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Used needle record (see appendix 15.26) Broken needle record (see appendix 15.16) Job card of machines Service record(dates) Maintenance schedule (appendix 15.10 and 15.11) Preventive maintenance (Monthly) (appendix 15.8) Preventive maintenance (weekly) (appendix 15.9)
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11.5 Questionnaire
1. What are the Special types of machine and their configuration? 2. What are the Types of machine and number of each machine? 3. What all are the setting done according to the fabric or garment type? 4. How is servicing done and frequation of servicing? 5. What is pre-breakdown servicing? 6. What is gauge and how it differs? 7. How catalogues are referred for the different machines? 8. Different types of folders used? 9. In which kind of machine we can use labour saving devices? 10. What is the frequency of machine breakdown? 11. What is the main reason or common reason of machine breakdown? 12. What is the maintenance cost per month or per year? 13. What are the stocks in maintenance department? 14. What is the life of an attachment and its cost? 15. What are Machine servicing details? a. Machine serving oil b. What all taken care of in servicing? c. Time duration between two servicing? d. Common problems? e. When it is done/ Sunday 16. Total number of staff in maintenance department? 17. Types of labour saving devices?
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Chapter 12 Industrial engineering
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12.1 Introduction
This department is responsible for all the technical works related to a garment industry such as the line balancing, the time study, the allocation of machines, the operation breakdown etc. the IE department is also responsible for the planning of activities related to a particular style.
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The responsibilities and duties of the Industrial Engineering Department is continuous approach towards
The improvements related to material handling; shortening the process, reduction of the operation time (Standard Minute Value), costs, and simplification of the process, technology and methods. Methodology Highlight every problem found, reported or heard during meeting. Evaluate the reasons and causes of the problem. Analyze the possible solutions to solve the problem. Compare alternative solutions to the problem. Introduce the most feasible, practical, effective, efficient and economical solution to the system. Keep the detail of the solutions in a Project Tasks Inventory the way it is done, how, when and by whom. Coach people and monitor the changes till they reach the total achievement.
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Realizing and achieving the financial objectives of the entire group. Industrial Engineer should monitor the results achieved in the form of direct labor vis--vis the objectives laid down in the Costing Formula. Methodology Determine the corporate objectives from the costing formula in relation to the number of direct labor, absenteeism, minutes earned, production delays, and quality. Assure the results are achieved daily, weekly and monthly, in case of negative results. Find out the reasons behind each negative result. Evaluate a solution. Prepare an action plan. Implement the new changes or improvement. Report daily the results versus the action plan to the management.
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Providing creative ideas in CM costing to the product development in order to meet the cost objective. The cost of Cutting and Making should be realized against the price objectives in the marketplace.
Methodology: Analyze all the operations seen in the sample at the first step Try to simplify some of the operations in order to do them simultaneously, Get the Involvement of the equipment technologist for any trial of new idea or development of new tool. Remember the piece handling and how to distribute them to the next operation. Eliminate any manual work by improving the work method of the sewing operation avoiding reduction in the needle time. Propose any changes to the product development for approval. Try any new ideas before implementation. Assure that all Standard Minute Values have the degree of confidence exceeding 95%.
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Monitoring the direct labor earning and excess costs
Methodology: Regularly monitor that the direct labour on the production floor are working against Standard Minute Value. Assure the utilization of the right equipment as it has been analyzed during costing, Assure, if the direct labor is not producing any minutes (Standard Minute Value), to be considered as a 100% production delays. Analyze the production delays with their reasons. Come out with action plans to improve delays and turn them into production earnings. Use the captured data to analyze individual performance when ever they are not seen to be performed accordingly. Make sure that the direct labor is applying to the same work-methods and workstation set-up as described in the operations analysis. Eliminate any occasional elements and correct any deviation in workmethods by observing the work elements logically. Ask for the assistance of the supervisor to show the operator the correct way of doing in case of difficulty handling by the sewing machine operator. Do Time Studies for the operations that seem erroneous and confirm them by analyzing against the MTM2 values.
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Monitoring the direct labor ratio per activity Monitor employees structure versus the labor objectives ratio as described in the costing formula to assure the earning performance in minutes as per the formula of the cost per minute production. Providing economical methods and production line set ups for better line balancing and feasibility Methodology: Production Line set ups should be analyzed in order to find the best number of employees required for better line balancing and better efficiency without relying on the output as objective. Industrial Engineer should run through very line set-up with the line balancing software to analyze the line balancing efficiency and achievement and to highlight to the supervisors where assistance and balancing is required in order to pull the production chain.
Monitoring the manufacturing processes and systems Industrial Engineer should have the total responsibility on all systems and procedures among the manufacturing process in relation to the following.
Methodology: Ensure the work environment is organized and cleaned at all time Quality procedures should be restored in term of trims cards, methods of inspection by the operators, paperworks and tools. Make sure the bundles are moving along the manufacturing chain in the order and see the operators are following the Bundle Handling Techniques Involve with the technicians and help them find efficient and effective methods of production. Ensure that the changes made by supervisors, technicians or managers will not affect the performance of the labor and the manufacturing processes and systems.
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Work procedure: On the receipt of the P.O. no. the IE In-charge works out the Batch setting. The steps taken for the batch setting are: Calculation of the SAM values Developing the Garment Analysis and Co-relation Chart. Balancing the line and Tack time. Developing the Line Layout. Developing the Thread Consumption Details
Industrial Engineering department keeps a track of the Production Status of the Purchase Order, once the Production reaches the factory (cutting). Every day the previous days shift wise Production Summary Report and Off Standard Time Report are prepared.
Description (Basic Motion- MTM2) along with the Distance in cm and frequency of the motion is fed in the analysis table. This data automatically generates the Time Measurement Units (TMU) values for the basic motion. Then sum of the manual work Time Measurement Units (TMU) is multiplied with the Manual Factor (1.11) and sum of the machine work Time Measurement Units (TMU) is multiplied with the Machine all. The sum of both these gives the Total Time in Time Measurement Units (TMU), and Standard Minute Value (SAM) value = (Total time in TMU/1667)
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GARMENT ANALYSIS AND CO-RELATION CHART This chart keeps record of Total TMU, Machine SAM, Manual SAM. Thus generating the following: 100% target / shift / operator= (8*60)/ Machine SAM 85% target / shift/ operator= 85% of the 100% target.
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12.2.2.1 Responsibilities of the IE department Though the time study and motion study are the most common function of Industrial engineer, the some other responsibilities are Planning layouts Monitoring Production flow system Deicide the machines and attachments for all style Pay system Monitoring and improve the operator performance Maintaining records of absenteeism Operator training Production control system Updating skill inventory Quality control Others Preparation Of Internal Tech Pack Operation Breakdown Line Planning Style Creation in ORAPPS Conducting Pilot Run GSD & exact SMV Implementation of a new ERP software called NOW
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12.2.2.2 Line balancing
Production Line balancing is the allocation of the work to be done to the operators available to do it. Production line balancing is used:
To ensure a steady flow of work To make the best use of the available time To keep work in progress to a minimum
12.2.2.2.1 The purposes of production line balancing: To ensure a steady flow of work through the production line. A balanced production line does not have any bottlenecks. This is because since the workflow is based on the output and capabilities of the workers in each operation of the manufacturing sequence. More workstations provided for complicated work. Simple work requires fewer workstations. To reduce the material handling time and manufacturing costs. Since work flows steadily along the production line, material- handling time can be reduced. This reduces manufacturing costs. To make the best use of space. A balanced line will give the minimum level of work in progress (WIP). The smaller the level of WIP, the smaller the space needed for production. To improve the working environment. A better working environment is possible with a balanced production line. This is because work is not allowed to accumulate on the production line. The sewing room will therefore be tidier. To improve control of the production schedule. Reliable data on output is easily obtained on a properly balanced production line.
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To reduce labor turnover. A properly balanced production line is designed so that a worker has enough time to complete his/her work. Workers must not be overloaded with work. Nor must they be left idle. An incentive scheme may be implemented to reduce labor turnover.
As the SAM for each operation is different, if the line is not balanced, some operatives might be idle and some may be overloaded. Therefore, it is the duty to give each an every operative a workload that they can handle. Then in some operations, have to allocate more than one operative for one operation. If all the operation times are equal there is equilibrium in the system and balancing loss will be zero. If they are unequal the maximum output from the line will be governed by the longest operation.
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12.2.2.2.2 Effective line balancing or planning depends on: Knowledge of the garment manufactured. The way in which production can be sectionalized. The capacity of the workplaces, in terms both of machinery and of the skill of the operatives who work there. The sequence of line balancing procedure could be illustrated as follows: 1. List the garments Operations/ machines in sequence of assembly 2. Assign SAM to each operation 3. Calculate machine and manual SAM. 4. Allocate no. operator(s) ,as per the require output per hr. compared to the efficiency of the operator (target /hr)
12.2.2.3 Line setting Once the line balancing of the style has been done on paper, It needs to be set on the floor which is a sequential process which involves Moving and placing machines according to operation Setting machine parameters according to the type of operation (i.e. spi, tension etc.) Assigning the right job to the right operator Training the operator as to what exactly has to be done. Measuring the time taken initially while the line is being set and once after it is in it full production flow.
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12.2.2.4 I.E. and necessities One of the basic functions of Industrial engineer is to get facts. These facts may be in the form of a time study or a cost report. But either case, management is given information to act upon. The important necessities are Standardisation of methods, equipment, and conditions. Production scheduling to work accurately helps to understand how long it takes to complete the work. Fair payment to employee To ensure all the three above mentioned the apparel engineering is needed. These engineering efforts benefit the company like work simplification, increased productivity, increased profit, increased Earning.
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Chapter 13 Sewing
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13.1 Introduction
The dominant process in garment industry is sewing, still the best way of achieving strength and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of manufacturing method. Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams.
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13.2.1.1 Standard operating procedure in production department Final tech pack to be available in the Production File. Passed FPT report to be available. Passed GPT report to be available. Fabric shrinkage test record for 10% / 100% as applicable to be available. Fabric Shrinkage test record for 10% / 100% as applicable to be available. Fusing compatibility report must be available. Trims test reports to be available. Approved Shade bands (washed / Unwashed as applicable) to be available. Approved Trim Card with all trims to be available in the file PP sample approval sheet to be available. PP meeting minutes record to be available. Mills and Internal Fabric inspection reports o be available. Communication to pattern dept, for shrinkage incorporation based on shrinkage tests and conformation of shrinkage allowance incorporated by pattern dept. to be available. Size set (2PCS IN SIZE 42 BY SUPERVISOR FOR NITYA) Pilot approval comments sheets to be available. Internal and buying office inline reports to be available. Internal and buying measurement audit report to be available. Internal and buying office in trim reports to be available. Internal and buying office final audit to be available. Production / finishing plan to be available. A chart to monitor critical component output to be available.
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Buyer PO / internal Job order to be available in the file. Approved Wash Standards as applicable to be present in the file. Copy of folding / packing approval record to be available in the file.
13.2.1.2 Quality process in sewing line: As line starts producing the 1st two garments from the assembly line. Then they cross-checked by R & D department and Quality head. If there is any problem related to the quality then the problems with the remedies forward to Q.C and to line supervisor. After all this functionality line start producing pieces as the 1st five pieces came out from the line forwards towards the quality director which check all the 5 garments and point out the critical area where the Q.C have to be concentrated. As the quality director checks he garments he forwards it towards the finishing department. As they received there is a rule that they have to produce the report within 2 hour. Finishing department 1st have to check the garment before pressing and then after pressing and have to submit the report within 2 hour as they receive the garments. All the details of pressing and folding the garment report is prepared by the quality director. As quality director receives report from finishing department production starts. Role of Q.C is to check the each operation 5 times and have to submit the report of daily in-line inspection. And this checking method is prepared by Quality head of the floor for the particular style. Then, there is a 100% end-line inspection and the method of inspection and the measurement chart is to be prepared by quality director. Measurement inspection at the end line is 5 garments / hour
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As the end line inspection completed they forward it towards the finishing department. In the finishing department they inspect 10% pieces if the rejection level is more that 2.5 % then there is a 100% inspection followed. If in-line there is a problem in quality hen the line Q.C stops the operation and remedified it.
13.2.1.3 Requirements of sewing section The requirements of the sewing section are as follows: Purchase Order/Order Confirmation file with tech pack Cut summary report (Style no., P.O. no., Batch, shift, color, date Cut no., Size, Bundle no., Qty, S. No.) Quality Auditing specifications Approved sample Visuals quality standards PP meeting notes, etc.
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13.2.2.1 Style analysis and line plan For each and every Order Confirmation / Purchase Order style analysis was done, stating the sequence of operations, sewing machines to be used, folders, attachments, presser foot etc to be used. All the critical points were marked. Line plan showed the actual sequence, number of stations for each operations or combination of operations. This also showed the marker positions, positions, quality checking/ Audit positions.
13.2.2.2 Pre-production meeting The preproduction meetings were designed to be informative and instructive with the intention of eliminating many problems before the production started. It was therefore an integral part of the production process. The meeting was generally held 5 days prior to starting the production. The pre-production meeting was conducted at the factory with members from quality assurance department, cutting section, sewing section, finishing section, maintenance head and the industrial engineer of the factory along with the merchandiser, Factory manager and the production manager. During the meeting the points that were discussed: Critical points that were to be taken care of, during the bulk production for better productivity and quality Pre-Production Sample with the changes from the Proto in the original fabric and trims is submitted. 13.2.2.3 Order planning The planning of order was mainly done by Production Planning & Control department at a macro level for all the units. The planning department used to give a rough planning schedule to the factories, which contain the following: Batch wise expected date for starting and completion of order
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Details of purchase order (P.O.) like order quantity and wash program, embroidery details, printing details and style name (Shirts, bottoms formals or casuals)
The planning department also gave the target production per machine per shift for a style according to the GSD database. They normally used to give 85% of GSD target to the factories.
13.2.2.4 Order planning in the factory The Production Manager and the Industrial Engineer do the production planning at the micro level. They were responsible for doing the following the Cut plan, sewing plan, finishing and packing plan and dispatch plan: Fabric and trims planning for the next Purchase Order (P.O.) to be loaded in the line. Providing operation breakdown detail for the style line wise. Calculating SAM for a garment (at 85% efficiency) and achieving a balanced line plan. Machine planning for the order to be loaded in the batch. If extra machine, specialized machine, guides, attachments and folders were needed, they arranged for the procurement of it from the maintenance department, Taking care of the loading schedule of the batch.
Production Manager, Floor in charge and Supervisor were doing the actual batch setting with mechanic and electrician for assistance, by using machine plan and operation breakdown.
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13.2.2.5 Production system In Orchid Overseas Pvt. Ltd. production department they were following a progressive bundle system. Progressive bundle system is a system in which pieces are moving in a bundle. They have 3 sewing floors having capacity of around 120000 pcs per month. There are 13 sewing lines in total.
13.2.2.5.1 The progressive bundle system This traditional method of manufacturing has been widely adopted in the Apparel Industry for the past 3 decades. Parts of various components after being cut in the Cutting Room are tied up in bundles and distributed out to the Sewing Section. This is called the Progressive Bundle System (PBS). This method requires bundle to be transported to individual sewing operators. Sometimes, factory porters/helpers are hired to do this transporting work. But usually, the operators have to stop and leave their workspace to look for the bundles. This is an INEFFECTIVE practice, as production managers are unable to manage or plan the production effectively. Intensive Direct Labour Contents o Statistics show that operators in most Progressive Bundles Systems (PBS) factory often spend a considerable time on tying and untying bundles, pulling the bundle tickets, handling works and associated clerical works. High Work In Process o The PBS philosophy adopts the "High Work In Process", or "Keep The Girl Busy" task management. More cutting works required o As a result of High Work In Process required by sewing section, cutting sections are required to perform 60-70% more than actual production can handle.
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High Inventory o Due to more cutting jobs being required, manufacturer needs to stock more fabrics and other accessories in advance of the actual planned production to fulfill the needs of the High WIP.
Long Delivery and Slow Through Put Time o Due to the High Work In Progress, managers are unable to manage the production well. o Cut pieces from cutting room, sewing section and to finishing sections will take approx. 3-7 days or more.
Direct Labor Excesses o Progressive Bundle System often needs more overtime works, operators make-up and to do repair works due to some unfinished operations. The average Direct Labor Excesses is 13.3% which is definitely higher than UPS System.
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13.2.2.6 Batch setting procedure The batch loading procedure was back loading, i.e. loading the next style while the machines in the batch start getting empty from the back. The average throughput time for a garment for a bundle in Progressive Bundle System (PBS) is 15 min.
Various activities during batch setting were as follows: 1. Machine layout change: Unplugging and shifting of machines Plugging of the machines
2. Machine cleaning: Cleaning feed dog, throat plate and work area 3. Machine setting: Changing needle, throat plate & thread Tension & puckering checking Stitches Per Inch (SPI) adjustment & mock up making
4. Explaining operations & quality parameters to operator 5. Preparing in line checking and marking tables: Cleaning table 6. Pattern template making 7. Cleaning up and getting the trolleys for material movement on the production floor ready for use.
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13.2.2.7 Bulk production Once the batch was set, the bulk production was started. The work was distributed among all the workers in such a manner that the required targets were achieved. In case of any deviations from the projected target, the processes were revised and improved to increase the productivity. This was mainly done by the line supervisors along with the Production Manager and the Industrial Engineer. During the production the operators are given individual GUM SHEETS/Stickers to fill up the serial wise bundle no. and size, along with this they are also required to mention the lost time due to various reasons (coded). And there are line production record keeper for each line, to track and record the hourly production.
13.2.2.8 Material handling equipment There were o trolleys to carry the cut parts or the semi finished goods from one place to another. The movement from one workstation to another while in operation was with the help of the bus bar provided between 2 machines of the line. The inter department movement of goods was either with the help of bins carried by the helpers or were carried by the helpers in hands. This increased the lead time and also made the other processes wait.
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13.2.2.9 The layout The sewing layout was divided into 3 floors. o Ground floor- 3 sewing lines o 1st and 2nd floor- 5 sewing lines each The ground floor also had the finishing section and the kaaj section. Extra machines were kept on the sides of the sewing lines for use in some other style. This line of extra machines was sometimes used for the purpose of rework or for the preparatory operations of a style such as tape making etc. Inline check points were available at suitable places in the line for proper inspection.
13.2.2.10 General observations at the floor WIP was very high due to the progressive bundle system as well as the faulty infra structure and planning. Lack of material carrying equipment can also be considered. Operator absenteeism is very high. Many of the workstations are kept idle. Extra devices such as folders, binders etc are used to provide necessary aid. Operations on a work station o The operator receives the bundles o Check for the piece number and sticker o Sort them according to their convenience o Stitch o Stick the operator sticker to count the number of pieces o Tie and pass the bundle forward with the help of the bus bar. They use DST as guide. Most of the operators are piece rate. Types of processes on the floor
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o Bundle receiving from cutting o Loading o Inline inspection o Alteration o Sorting o Counting o Sent to finishing Alteration percentage o High when line is being set o Low when line is in smooth flow Since most of the operators are piece rate hence no targets are set for production. Sewing defects encountered o Puckering o Roping o Pinching o Wrong size label o Wrong size parts. Cutting flaws that cause problem o Improper notches o Improper shape o Bowing Operator carries o A scissor o A guide tape(DST) o Marker/ chalk to mark patterns o Number sticker which is unique for an individual for the purpose of counting the number of pieces made by each in case of piece rate operators A mock sample is placed at each critical operation.
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A chart is prepared for each line which has all the details of a particular style. Information included in the chart. o SPI of SNLS and Overlock o What stitch and seam is required at what place and the width of seam etc.
13.2.2.11 Problems encountered Cutting flaws Wrong number of plies Absenteeism Helpers not available when needed Slow maintenance and repair.
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Machine maintenance Hourly production Daily production Q.A comments Production file Inline and end line checking reports Absenteeism record Needle record stitching inspection report order completion report costing sheet
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13.4 Process flow
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13.5 Questionnaire
1. -What is the production system used? 2. -what is the number of production lines? 3. -How is material movement handelled? 4. -What is the total number of operators? a. -supervisors b. -Helpers 5. -what is the daily production capacity? 6. -what is the total number of machines? 7. -How is machine breakdown/failure maintained? 8. -Are the machines serviced regularly? 9. -What are the different types of machines on the production floor? 10. -What is the frequency of machinery breakdown? 11. -How are bobbins and needles issued? 12. -what is done with the broken needles? 13. -How many extra bobbins does each operator have? 14. -How operators are classified? a. -salaried operator b. -piece rate operator 15. -What time do operators usually take to set to one order to achieve maximum efficiency? 16. -What is the general efficiency of production floor? 17. -How are completed garments transported to finishing department? 18. -How are records maintained for the performance of each operator? - Are the operator trained on regular basis? 19. -How is the skill matrix decided? 20. -How the operators are aligned different jobs? 21. -How is bottleneck operations determined? 22. -What is done to counter WIP? 23. -What are the different labours saving devices being used?
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a. -light b. -folders etc. c. Profiles d. Inline markers
24. -What are the different stages of inspection? 25. -How is the inspection done? 26. -How many inline quality check points are there? 27. -How is the daily production recorded? 28. -Is there separate department and machinery for sampling? 29. -How old are the sewing machines? 30. -How is line balancing is done? Who is responsible for this? 31. -Is line balancing is done for every new order? 32. -Is the same production system is followed in every order? 33. -What is the percentage absenteeism? 34. -What is done to counter the absenteeism? 35. -Are there any floaters? If yes how many? 36. -How frequently is the production output monitored? 37. -How frequently is the buyer QA visit? 38. -Is there any production target set? How is it matched? What is done to achieve target? 39. -What is the frequency of overtime? 40. -How is time study done? 41. -How is efficiency calculated? 42. -What all can be a sewing defects? 43. -How are defects managed and corrected? 44. -What is the alteration %? 45. -What is the intensity of light for critical operations? - What are critical operations? 46. -How is operation breakdown done? 47. -what is the rejection rate?
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48. -what is done in case of cutting flaws? 49. -what does each operator carry? a. -scissors b. -trimmer etc 50. -What are the quality standards to be followed on sewing floor? 51. -What is the frequency of accidents? 52. -How is first aid provided? 53. -How is production per day counted? 54. -Are there any trained personnel for first aid and fire fighting? 55. -How are workers trained/educated for new style and its construction? 56. -What are the reasons and points that effect production? 57. -What all are the specification provided to operator? 58. -What all are the duties of production manager? 59. How is planning linked to production? 60. Is there any production \sealed samples present on the floor for reference? 61. What is the process flow? 62. How does information flow between sewing and other department? How is throughput time and lead time calculated?
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Chapter 14 Style study
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14.1 About the style

14.1.1 Sample worksheet
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14.1.2 Specifications for sewing of the garment

SPI of SNLS 10-11 SPI of O/L 14-15 Width of tunnel required is 1.5 cm Width of tape at back neck and sleeve cuff= 4 cm Top stitch at back yoke, armhole, cuff edge and side seam= 0.6 cm Top stitch at cuff seam, placket and bottom tunnel= 0.3 cm. Main label should be 2 cm away from the yoke and should be at the centre. A loop of 1 cm is to be attached 1 cm away from the main label at the collar seam. Bottom fold should be of 0.6 cm There should be a condensed stitch at the end of the dart. There should not be any pinching, puckering etc. There should be no joint in the top stitch. A thicker thread should be used for the top stitch. All the checks in the garment should be mirror image of the corresponding side.
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14.2 Bill of materials

style #I21333 qty on order 8860 m 22900 m 460 G 1185 G 16270 pcs 1180 pcs 720 pcs qty recd expected date
item name 60's voile
description shell fabric
color frappe night blue frappe night blue P07263501 P03039328 P02028256 all size & color off white
balance
supplier
15-Jun mudra 15-Jun mudra 30-Jun B.D. sales 30-Jun B.D. sales 20-Jun astra 20-Jun astra 20-Jun astra
buttons
BT0591
label
W/L
label main label thicker thread
additional label IWC1B
18170 pcs 18415 pcs
astra SML Hk Coats(pre shipment) Coats(pre shipment)
tkt 50 tkt 50
frappe night blue pale blue walnut marble grey off white 15675 m 6090 m
in house in house
tape
T0164
20-Jun Jai Roop 20-Jun Jai Roop
fusing
IV326
15-Jun Esweegey 15-Jun Esweegey
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14.3 Measurement Chart

SIZE USA / CANADA SIZE EUROPE (all in cms) B BY1 F SS BUD BUS PKW FND BND BNW SH SHSP SHS FWIP FWI C CDL CD1 W HH BO back length at CB total (BW >= 60) back yoke height at CB front length from SPI total (BW >= 60) side seam length from AP total (BW >= 60) button distance first button postion from SPI (measured diagonal) placket width front neck drop from SPI back neck drop from HSP back neck width from HSP to HSP shoulder to shoulder shoulder seam is moved to front shoulder width at seam front width position from SPI front width chest 0 cm below AP chest dart length chest dart end from SPI waist 19 cm below AP high hip 28.5 cm below AP width at hip tunnel relaxed bottom hem opening position of hip tunnel from hemline width of hem tunnel S FA BI E CUA SO CUH sleeve length (long+3/4 ) front armhole curve from SPO biceps / upper arm width elbow width 23 cm below AP cuff attacment seam sleeve opening (long) cuff height sleeve slit length sleeve slit width BWI back width 12 cm below CB neck length of bow from crosspoint at plackt till poined edge bow/collar height at CB BNC back neck curve 0 30 60.1 9.4 59.6 42.4 6 21.6 2.5 18.1 3.1 21.4 36 2 7.7 12.2 31.9 85 12 21.3 73.8 81.2 77 89.1 10.5 1.3 60.1 17.1 30.4 26 19.1 19.1 7 13 1.8 35.4 45 10.5 27.4 2 32 61.4 9.55 61.4 43.3 6.1 22.5 2.5 19 3.2 21.8 37.2 2 8.1 12.4 32.5 89 12.6 22.1 77.8 85.2 81 93.1 10.5 1.3 60.6 17.9 31.6 26.9 19.7 19.7 7 13 1.8 36.4 45 10.5 27.8 4 34 62.7 9.7 63.2 44.2 6.2 23.3 2.5 19.8 3.3 22.2 38.4 2 8.5 12.6 33 93 13.2 22.9 81.8 89.2 85 97.1 10.5 1.3 61.1 18.7 32.8 27.8 20.3 20.3 7 13 1.8 37.4 45 10.5 28.2 6 36 64 9.85 65 45.1 6.3 24.1 2.5 20.6 3.4 22.6 39.6 2 8.9 12.8 33.55 97 13.8 23.7 85.8 93.2 89 101.1 10.5 1.3 61.6 19.5 34 28.7 20.9 20.9 7 13 1.8 38.4 45 11.5 28.6 8 38 65.3 10 66.8 46 6.4 25 2.5 21.5 3.5 23 40.8 2 9.3 13 34.1 101 14.4 24.5 89.8 97.2 93 105.1 10.5 1.3 62.1 20.3 35 29.5 21.5 21.5 7 13 1.8 39.4 45 11.5 29 10 40 65.7 10.2 67.8 45.9 6.5 25.9 2.5 22.4 3.6 23.4 42 2 9.7 13.2 35 106 15 25.5 94.8 102 97.5 110 10.5 1.3 62.2 21.3 36.3 30.4 22.1 22.1 7 13 1.8 40.6 45 11.5 29.4 12 42 66.6 10.4 69.3 46.3 6.6 27.1 2.5 23.6 3.7 23.8 43.2 2 10.1 13.4 35.9 111 15.7 26.5 100 107 103 115 10.5 1.3 62.4 22.3 37.8 31.5 22.7 22.7 7 13 1.8 41.9 45 12.5 29.8 14 44 67.5 10.6 70.8 46.6 6.7 28.2 2.5 24.7 3.8 24.2 44.5 2 10.6 13.6 37 115.5 16.5 27.5 105.8 111.7 107.5 119.6 10.5 1.3 62.6 23.3 39.3 32.6 23.3 23.3 7 13 1.8 43.2 45 12.5 30.2 16 46 68.5 10.8 72.5 46.9 6.8 29.4 2.5 25.9 3.9 24.6 45.9 2 11.1 13.8 38.5 121.5 17.3 28.7 112.3 117.2 113 125.1 10.5 1.3 62.8 24.3 40.8 33.7 23.9 23.9 7 13 1.8 44.8 45 12.5 30.6
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14.4 Operation breakdown

Preparatory Back Front
Main label patch Sleeve placket
Yoke attach Label attach with top stitch
Dart folding
Placket making
Cuff making Shoulder attach Sleeve attach
Collar making
Gathers at sleeve
Tape at bottom
Tape at neckline with hanger loop Cuff attach with top stitch Collar attach o/l at side seam Waist tunnel and elastic insert
Wash care label
Apparel Internship Report 2010 ORCHID OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED Bottom AKASH ANAND & RAJIL MITTAL, DFT (2007-2011) National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar
238 hemming
14.4.1 Preparatory processes

14.4.1.1 Collar making Marking of actual shape of collar through pattern. Attaching of second panel through stitching over the marking. Cutting of the extra part of collar. Collar turning and pressing. Collar extra width cutting.
14.4.1.2 Cuff making Placement of interlining over cuff and pressing after folding on one side. Matching for mirror image checks. Stitching of interlining on bottom of one panel of cuff. Attaching second panel. Edge cutting of cuff. Turning of cuff and pressing. Cuff top stitch.
14.4.1.3 Sleeve Diamond placket making Under placket making
14.4.1.4 Main label patch making Folding tape and start attaching label Cut tape and finish
14.4.1.5 Gathers at sleeve Giving gathers at sleeve bottom Attaching tape

239
14.4.2 Front
14.4.2.1 Left front Dart folding and stitching. Front placket sewing. Placket top stitch.
14.4.2.2 Right front Dart folding and stitching. Placket making Placket finish.
14.4.3 Back
14.4.3.1 Back yoke attach Attach back yoke Top stitch.
14.4.3.2 Main label attach Attach main label to the inner side on the back yoke.
14.4.4 Assembly
14.4.4.1 Shoulder attach 14.4.4.2 Sleeve attach 14.4.4.3 5 thread o/l at armhole 14.4.4.4 Top stitch at armhole 14.4.4.5 Side seam 14.4.4.6 O/l at side seam 14.4.4.7 Top stitch at side seam 14.4.4.8 Twill tape attach at sleeve bottom 14.4.4.9 Cuff attaches + finish 14.4.4.10 Twill tape + loop attach at neckline 14.4.4.11 Collar attach 14.4.4.12 Waist elastic patti attach 14.4.4.13 Wash care label attach 14.4.4.14 Bottom hemming
240
14.5 Time study

14.5.1 Spreading
Spreading time study for # i21333 action pick fabric and take to end put dead weight time (in sec) 5 1.13 8.5 1.07 7.91 1.59 6.72 1.72 7.31 1.03 8.93 1.77 8.62 1.34 8.59 1.72 8.02 9.13 1.66 1.14 7.68 1.93
remove wrinkles and match selvedge 12.06 cut/slash tear match ends and put dead weight total Average Changing of roll pick up old roll dispatch pick new roll 4.78 0.92 7.31 1.63 3
11.5 0.87 2.4
9.02 1.03 2.4
11.6 10.03 10.09 13.12 11.91 1.01 3.14 1.17 2.57 1.52 3.02 1.51 3.09 1.7 2.01
9.62 7.38 10.99 1.57 1.62 2.8 2.14 1.09 2.02
4.58 27.4
5.16
6.97
5.98
5.11
6.23
6.11
6.73
7.01 5.93
5.66
29.5 28.92 30.17 27.22 31.56 33.79 32.66 30.68 27.3 29.37
4.44 1.11 8.12
5.31 1.08 7.57
6.11 1.5 7.72
put rod 10.34 11.12 10.98 13.23 put on stand(load) 6.68 8.11 6.1 7.54 average 32.52
total 30.03
32.9 31.04
36.1
241
14.5.2 Cutting
Total watch time 40 min 22 sec Sharpening of blade 6.72 sec per time Blade sharpened 32 times i.e. 3 min 31 sec
Block cutting/re cutting ( time taken per piece) Collar 2 min 10 sec 65 msec Cuff 26.24 sec Sleeve 1 min 45 sec Front 1 min 22 sec 21 Back 1 min 27 sec 32 msec
242
14.5.3 Sewing
14.5.3.1 Overall time study Sr.No Process 1 Collar making 2 Edge cutting of collar 3 Cuff making 4 Edge cutting of cuff 5 Cuff folding and turning 6 Cuff top stitch 7 Front placket 8 Front placket fold and finish 9 Wash care label 10 Diamond placket 11 Under placket 12 Sleeve/ triangle locking 13 Tape attach at neck + loop 14 Yoke attach 15 Top stitch at yoke 16 Shoulder attach 17 Top stitch at shoulder 18 Collar attach 19 Collar fold and finish 20 Sleeve attach 21 Sleeve top stitch 22 Side seam 23 Top stitch at side seam 24 Cuff attach and finish 25 Top stitch at cuff 26 Front dart with condense stitch 27 Tape attach with label 28 Label attach at back 29 Tape at sleeve bottom 30 DNLS waist tunnel 31 Elastic insert 32 5 thread o/l at side seam 33 Gathers at sleeve bottom 34 Bottom hemming 35 button holing 36 Button attaching TOTAL TIME(in sec) TOTAL TIME (in min.)
Time Taken-sec 224.11 62.01 20.73 11.11 12.95 12.84 158.025 135.06 18.79 73.07 19.39 11.04 52.03 37.93 23.21 42.76 16.74 59.9 31.76 124.79 69.95 113.1 135.49 140.2 72.44 69.53 69.53 45.66 52.43 35.94 45.97 128.94 20.06 61.33 81.49 85.12 2375.425sec 39 min 59 sec 243
14.5.3.1 Collar making Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: Goldstar Model No.: DDL 5550 N Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 240.25 2 235.22 3 200.33 4 258.55 5 244.11 6 240.12 7 230.11 8 211.25 9 180.56 10 200.67
Needle Time 21.54 23.12 25.12 26.11 22.98 27.86 26.27 26.18 32.11 30.87
Average Cycle Time: 224.11 Average Needle Time: 26.21
14.5.3.2 Edge cutting of collar Type of Machine: Edge Cutter Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DLM 5200 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 72.44 2 56.5 3 58.22 4 51.11 5 70.17 6 67.45 7 55.12 8 70.45 9 58.8 10 60.15 Needle Time 31.22 33.12 30.1 28.89 26.12 27.86 26.27 26.18 32.11 30.87
244
14.5.3.3 Cuff making Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: GOLDSTAR Model No.: DDL 5550 N Readings: Sr.No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Cycle Time 21.84 22.83 20.54 20.91 22.46 18.87 22.13 20.93 18.97 17.88 Needle Time 16.26 16.86 14.75 14.39 15.8 12.12 14.97 14.94 13.08 12.68
14.5.3.4 Edge cutting of cuff Type of Machine: Edge Cutting Machine Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DLM 5200 Readings: Sr.No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Cycle Time 10.88 11.67 10.78 9.28 11.23 12.63 9.89 11.02 13.08 10.65 Needle Time 3.04 2.02 2.97 2.05 3.42 4.08 2.18 3.31 4.77 3.16
245
14.5.3.5 Cuff folding and turning Type of Machine: MAN Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 15.58 2 10.60 3 15.66 4 14.36 5 16.75 6 14.72 7 12.07 8 11.38 9 10.20 10 8.27
Average Cycle Time: 12.95
14.5.3.6 Cuff top stitch Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: GOLDSTAR Model No.: DDL 5550 N Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 13.65 2 11.48 3 11.72 4 10.74 5 12.61 6 11.91 7 14.01 8 14.59 9 14.31 10 13.43
Needle Time 9.83 7.75 8.44 7.46 9.63 8.95 11.16 10.46 10.21 9.95
246
14.5.3.7 Front placket making Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: BROTHER Model No.: DB2-B101-3 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 163.19 2 146.06 3 167.11 4 152.89 5 144.22 6 150.1 7 177.22 8 167.23 9 160.12 10 152.11
Needle Time 36.11 35.67 34.12 37.8 36.25 27.86 30.91 31.27 32.11 30.87
14.5.3.8 Front placket fold and stitch Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: UNICORN Model No.: DB2 H510 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 131.5 2 127.92 3 134.22 4 145.78 5 137.4 6 140.23 7 132.17 8 139.21 9 133.11 10 129.1 Needle Time 26.12 22.14 21.32 25.55 26.72 25.17 21.11 28.45 25.14 23.12
247
14.5.3.9 Wash care label attach Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: UNICORN Model No.: DB2 H510 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 21.73 2 20.32 3 15.76 4 13.57 5 16.58 6 17.31 7 19.40 8 17.22 9 21.56 10 24.47
Needle Time 3.68 1.68 1.22 0.55 0.83 0.59 0.45 0.75 0.55 0.51
14.5.3.10 Diamond placket making Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: GOLDSTAR Model No.: DDL 5550 N Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 82.04 2 65.94 3 71.31 4 74.14 5 73.11 6 75.06 7 67.55 8 72.89 9 69.32 10 79.35
Needle Time 64.95 51.42 54.65 59.26 55.59 57.7 53.76 56.31 57.89 61.23
248
14.5.3.11 under placket making Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: GOLDSTAR Model No.: DDL 5550 N Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 17.96 2 24.25 3 16.16 4 19.12 5 20.14 6 20.68 7 21.26 8 18.81 9 17.57 10 18.02
Needle Time 4.01 2.66 1.99 2.64 1.54 1.53 2.16 2.66 2.46 3.63
14.5.3.12 Sleeve/triangle locking Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 11.63 2 11.52 3 10.84 4 11.48 5 12.92 6 11.09 7 10.60 8 8.78 9 10.17 10 11.42
Needle Time 0.77 1.58 1.2 0.96 1.44 1.87 1.53 1.36 0.91 1.52
249
14.5.3.13 Tape attach at neck with loop attach Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530
Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 58.14 2 56.01 3 46.48 4 52.35 5 57.77 6 52.32 7 45.98 8 58.23 9 48.52 10 44.50
Needle Time 38.54 36.42 30.7 36.9 37.68 36.14 30.29 37.78 33.08 29.75
14.5.3.14 Yoke attach Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 37.87 2 38.38 3 39.91 4 37.83 5 35.80 6 36.78 7 37.49 8 37.35 9 38.47 10 39.43
Needle Time 23.22 23.19 20.27 20.85 18.54 16.49 18.83 20.02 21.45 16.5
250
14.5.3.15 Top stitch at yoke Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: GOLDSTAR Model No.: DDL 5550 N Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 24.05 2 27.46 3 25.43 4 26.16 5 23.24 6 25.86 7 19.93 8 19.36 9 18.76 10 21.93
Needle Time 13.07 12.61 15.03 14.48 13.56 15.03 10.39 9.82 10.5 13.62
14.5.3.16 Shoulder attach Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 34.6 2 38.26 3 52.68 4 42.04 5 42.82 6 49.79 7 39.11 8 44.14 9 42.68 10 41.57
Needle Time 8.32 11.82 11.86 9.52 12.13 12.03 10.43 10.97 8.87 8.17
251
14.5.3.17 Top stitch at shoulder Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: GOLDSTAR Model No.: DDL 5550 N Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 18.44 2 18.76 3 15.77 4 17.01 5 15.72 6 19.34 7 14.51 8 15.46 9 15.31 10 17.10
Needle Time 3.87 5.15 4.13 4.82 3.88 4.31 4.48 4.02 3.62 5.12
14.5.3.18 Collar attach Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 50.67 2 53.42 3 66.66 4 65.79 5 66.26 6 55.91 7 50.73 8 61.03 9 55.25 10 73.31
Needle Time 36.38 37.3 43.45 43.67 52.34 36.39 39.69 38.63 39.28 54.84
252
14.5.3.19 Collar fold and finish Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 25.39 2 28.72 3 29.42 4 28.84 5 29.22 6 35.65 7 34.07 8 33.73 9 36.81 10 35.81
Needle Time 14.44 18.92 16.41 18.69 18.27 24.86 23.57 22.4 25.2 24.49
14.5.3.20 Sleeve attach Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: GOLDSTAR Model No.: DDL 5550 N Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 127.40 2 121.98 3 122.09 4 114.54 5 123.96 6 124.58 7 130.69 8 125.22 9 112.69 10 144.78
Needle Time 92.15 81.75 96.7 86.67 95.64 92.84 105.74 96.44 81.76 111.6
253
14.5.3.21 Top stitch at armhole Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: UNICORN Model No.: DB2-H510 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 62.30 2 71.65 3 65.50 4 68.86 5 75.31 6 67.64 7 69.33 8 76.35 9 71.25 10 71.39
Needle Time 46.97 57.97 51.25 51.95 58.04 55.22 55.85 59.39 57.8 56.83
14.5.3.22 Side seam Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: UNICORN Model No.: DB2-H510 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 110.23 2 127.92 3 114.65 4 108.71 5 113.47 6 107.92 7 111.96 8 110.34 9 110.65 10 115.23
Needle Time 46.97 57.97 51.25 51.95 58.04 55.22 55.85 59.39 57.8 56.83
254
14.5.3.23 Top stitch at side seam and underarm Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: UNICORN Model No.: DB2-H510 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 136.49 2 131.47 3 130.3 4 138.19 5 140.23 6 134.2 7 134.17 8 140.3 9 139.4 10 130.2
Needle Time 59.85 59.68 63.39 68.91 61.91 63.64 66.81 62.48 66.07 68.56
14.5.3.24 Cuff attach and finish Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: UNICORN Model No.: DB2-H510 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 140.21 2 143.27 3 138.72 4 138.19 5 140.23 6 141.11 7 140.42 8 140.3 9 139.4 10 140.18
Needle Time 65.12 59.48 60.9 63.11 60.2 58.9 59.33 61.01 60.11 62.1
255
14.5.3.25 Top stitch at cuff Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: UNICORN Model No.: DB2-H510 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 75.76 2 72.9 3 77.17 4 70.56 5 71.29 6 73.29 7 70.08 8 72.34 9 70.66 10 70.43
Needle Time 30.97 28.89 35.53 39.87 35.37 33.3 41.47 36.31 39.49 38.88
14.5.3.26 Tape attach with label Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 71.12 2 62.07 3 68.07 4 73.68 5 71.29 6 73.29 7 69.12 8 67.2 9 70.14 10 69.35
Needle Time 21.19 18.72 20.36 22.17 19.11 19.98 20.22 21.17 20.99 21.27
256
14.5.3.27 Front dart with condense stitch Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: BROTHER Model No.: DB2-B101-3 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 28.35 2 34.21 3 30.11 4 32.27 5 27.1 6 28.98 7 27.72 8 27.66 9 25.33 10 29.2
Needle Time 7.12 6.31 6.44 5.18 5.98 5.66 7.82 6.11 6.28 6.77
14.5.3.28 Label attach at back Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 44.80 2 50.67 3 42.29 4 44.67 5 43.42 6 44.30 7 50.95 8 41.84 9 45.47 10 48.21
Needle Time 18.37 22.15 16.95 23.98 19.84 20.86 26.82 21.52 22.71 22.81
257
14.5.3.29 Tape attach at sleeve bottom Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 50.34 2 54.12 3 52.27 4 58.19 5 51.97 6 50.23 7 56.33 8 50.12 9 50.18 10 50.55
Needle Time 20.12 21.34 22.1 19.11 20.83 21.19 21.21 23.22 20.18 20.32
14.5.3.30 five threads o/l at side seam+ armhole Type of Machine: 5 THREAD O/L Machine Manufacturer: YAMATO Model No.: CZ6500-A4DF Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 33.74 2 37.12 3 38.99 4 36.17 5 37.24 6 33.11 7 35.62 8 35.77 9 35.38 10 36.21
Needle Time 25.12 24.34 25.33 26.17 28.31 22.19 24.85 23.18 24.76 25.23
258
14.5.3.31 DNLS Waist tunnel attach Type of Machine: DNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: LH-3168 Special folder/ binder used Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 45.34 2 44.21 3 46.78 4 45.33 5 47.18 6 46.09 7 47.29 8 45.49 9 44.88 10 47.12
Needle Time 38.12 36.88 36.72 37.19 38.11 35.54 36.32 35.46 36.18 37.21
14.5.3.32 Elastic insert at waist band Type of Machine: MAN Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 125.11 2 131.03 3 127.22 4 126.9 5 130.2 6 128.11 7 132.27 8 133.19 9 127.26 10 128.1
259
14.5.3.33 Gathers at sleeve bottom Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Pressure foot adjustment to give gathers Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 20.11 2 19.67 3 20.26 4 19.98 5 19.18 6 20.66 7 20.45 8 21.1 9 20.09 10 19.17
Needle Time 8.14 7.98 8.76 7.77 9.12 8.34 9.08 7.98 7.49 7
14.5.3.34 Bottom hemming Type of Machine: SNLS Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: DDL 5530 Jugaad of sand bag to give gathers Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 64.50 2 60.16 3 57.87 4 56.74 5 58.19 6 56.98 7 66.55 8 63.26 9 60.97 10 68.08
Needle Time 48.58 46.72 42.87 45.27 45.32 43.49 47.2 47.48 47.42 53.21
260
14.5.3.35 Button holing/ kaaj Type of Machine: kaaj machine / Button holing Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: LBH 781 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 98.23 2 73.24 3 69.85 4 72.43 5 84.56 6 93.32 7 86.19 8 74.59 9 83.26 10 79.28
14.5.3.36 Button attaching Type of Machine: Button attaching Machine Manufacturer: JUKI Model No.: LK-1903 Readings: Sr.No Cycle Time 1 84.43 2 78.37 3 92.17 4 85.52 5 86.08 6 79.02 7 83.48 8 87.58 9 90.49 10 84.07
261
14.6 Method study Diamond Placket Pick sleeve Pick fly Match checks Mark Stitch Take placket Match/Align Stitch Cut/Slash V-slit Fold and turn Top stitch on fly Triangle fixing Top stitch on placket Marking of diamond Folding and making diamond Top stitch on diamond Box stitch Dispatch
262
Top Stitch at Yoke Pick piece Align under foot Stitch Dispatch
Yoke Attach Pick one yoke Pick back Align Pick other yoke and align Put under p/f Stitch Dispatch
Fusing on Cuff Pick cuff inner & place Pick fusing and align Pick outer cuff and place, align Put into machine Collect
Sleeve Attach Pick sleeve Pick body Match notches Start stitching Finish Pick other side sleeve and repeat
263
Collar Making Pick one(outer collar both pieces) Match Align & stitch Pick inner collar both pieces Match Align and stitch Pick both inner and outer Match seams(right side to right side) Flatten seams Start stitch Mark edge Stitch till edge(point) Thread insert Turn Stitch till point & insert thread Turn, stitch till point & thread Turn stitch till point & thread Turn and stitch till notch
Shoulder Attach Pick back attached with yoke Pick front Match Fold one side of yoke(back) Align Stitch Pick another side front and repeat
264
Attach Tape with Label Pick tape Fold tape Pick tape Pick label Align Stitch and fold tape Turn 90 and stitch, fold tape Turn 90 and stitch, fold tape Turn 90 and stitch Cut tape Fold Finish stitch Dispatch
Cuff Making Pick one(outer cuff)(with fusing) Pick inner(cuff) Match Fold outer cuff from bottom Align both Stitch with b/t Turn and stitch Turn and stitch Stitch complete with b/t & dispatch
265
Cuff Attach Pick cuff Pick body Align and stitch Fold outside Align and stitch Stitch complete with b/t Dispatch
Top Stitch at Cuff Pick piece Align Start with b/t Turn and stitch Turn and stitch Stitch complete with b/t Repeat for other side
Front Dart Pick front Match notches and fold to dart point Stitch till of the dart Half b/t for condense stitch Continue stitching till dart point Cut thread Dispatch
266
Label Attach at Back Pick back Mark centre Pick label Centre Align/place on back Start stitch Turn 90 and stitch Turn 90 and stitch Turn 90 and stitch Complete stitch with b/t and dispatch
Tape Attach at Sleeve Bottom(Cuff) Pick piece(body) Pick tape Align Stitch Dispatch
Tape Attach at Neck Pick body Pick tape Measure and cut Align Start Stitch Stop till notch Pick hanger loop Fold loop Place in b/w tape and neck Stitch complete Dispatch
267
Collar fold and finish Pick piece Pick collar Start stitch with b/t Keep folding and aligning Stitch complete with b/t Dispatch
5 Thread O/L at Side Seam Pick Align Start stitch till dart Fold dart towards gravity/down Complete side seam Remove Align armhole Complete
Elastic insert at Waist Band Pick piece Pick elastic Measure and cut Pick needle Insert in needle Insert needle in tunnel Keep folding and pressing Take needle out Stretch elastic to straighten it to avoid turns Flatten tunnel Dispatch
268
Gathers at Sleeve Bottom Pick piece and align Stitch(it will put gather, special p/f used) Repeat with other side Dispatch
Top Stitch at Side Seam and Under Arm of Sleeve Pick piece Align Start stitch Finish Repeat for other side Dispatch
Edge Cutting of Collar Seam Allowance Take Collar Align under edge trimmer m/c pressure foot Start Stop and turn Start Stop and turn Start Stop and turn Finish Dispatch
269
Waist tunnel attach with DNLS (folder used) Pick piece Check for joint in tunnel(should not come in front) Stitch Complete Cut & Dispatch
Top Stitch at Sleeve/Armhole Pick piece Align Start from yoke Stitch till notch/mark Remove Bring other side Start from mark Stitch from mark Stitch till yoke with b/t Dispatch
Attach Wash care label Pick piece Align Pick labels and align Start with b/t Finish with b/t Dispatch
270
Front Placket Pick front/body Pick placket Cut from middle Align one with one side front Stitch at stop and turn Stitch at , stop and turn Stitch till bottom Slash at top Flatten seams and turn around Make points of placket Repeat for other side
Front Placket turn and Stitch Pick piece Start stitching at top Stop and turn Fold placket Start stitch Finish till bottom Dispatch
271
Side Seam Pick back Pick one side front Match Align Stitch Repeat with other side front
Collar Attach Pick piece Pick collar Match notches Start stitch Finish and flatten seams Dispatch
272
14.7 The line as planned

LINE main label patch making label att at bk yoke
joints at collar + gathers at sleeve
collar making
collar making
slit making
slit making
slit making
cuff making
darts making at frnt +plkt att
darts making at frnt +plkt att
yoke att. + top stitch at bk
yoke att. +top stitch at bk
shoulder att.
shoulder att.
sleeve att
sleeve att
O/L at armhole
top st. at armhole
side seam
side seam
O/L at side seam
top stitch at side seam
top stitch at side seam
waist patti att
elastic takki + elastic inserting
placket finish
placket finish
placket finish
Twill tape att. At sleeve btm
273
cuff att + finish
cuff att + finish
twill tape + loop att. At neck
collar att
collar att
bottom heming
274
14.8 Cut order planning
275
14.9 Style tracking for i21333
276
14.10 Costing
All direct indirect costs, all material and labor cost, negotiation margin, profit margin is kept into mind before the cost of a garment is finalized and proposed to the buyer by the merchandiser.
The costing is done in regards to CMTP that is cut, make, trims and packaging. It also includes the fabric and embellishments cost. A cost sheet is used for this purpose. Costing in merchandising department
Fabric cost Fabric Type Yarn Count Collar
Cutting cost Spreading charge Cutting charge
Making cost Lockstitch Overlock Flatlock Folding/binding Shell stitch Thread Thread cutting
277
Trims cost Main label Twill tape Care label Tag Jtag Tape Side label
Finishing/packaging cost Washing Pressing Price tag Kimble Packing material Carton Truck to madras
278
Chapter 15 Appendix
279
15.1 Alteration report

Alteration Report Style Color Size Received At Alter Details Received By Handover Date Handed Over By
280
15.2 Visual inspection report

VISUALINSPECTION REPORT
PILOT RUN / INLINE / MIDLINE / FINAL STYLE # DESCRIPTION BUYER P.O. NO COLOR ORDER QTY SHIP QTY PACKED QTY NOT OK DATE
SAMPLE SIZE NO OF DEF.ALLOW NO OF DEF.FOUND AUDITOR
ACCESSORIES MAIN LABEL SIZE LABEL WASH CARE LABEL OTHER LABEL PRICE TICKET TAG ZIPPER BUTTON VELCRO LACE RIB THREAD OTHER OTHER MATERIAL DEFECT HOLE BOWING NAP DIRECTION / GRAIN EMBROIDERY PRINT DEFECT FABRIC SHADE / COLOR DYEING DEFECT HANDFEEL
OTHER COMMENTS:-
OK
MAJOR
MINOR
SEWING DEFECTS OPEN SEAM SKIPSTITCH BROKEN STITCH PUCKERING/ROPPING POCKET PLACEMENT NEEDLE HOLES/CUT RAW EDGES/ WAVY STITCHING UNEVEN SPI MISSING OPERATIONS MISALIGNED ARMPIT LOOSE STITCHING COLOR VARIATION OTHER FINISHING DEFECTS POOR PRESSING SHINE MARK STAIN / OIL STAIN INSECURE BUTTON/SEQUINS WRINKLES UNCUT/LOOSE THREAD CALENDER MARK OTHER TOTAL
MAJOR
MINOR
MAJOR
MINOR
AUDIT RESULT
PASS FAIL
AUDITOR
PACK. INCHARGE
FIN. INCHARGE
PRODUCTION MGR
QA MANAGER
281
15.3Size Set/ Pilot/Initial 10 Pcs Visual report

Style no. STYLE : Buyer: Delivery Start Date: Shrinkages Yes/ No/NA Verified Any Product Safety issue SPI
Colors Ord. Qty
Date: Line no.
Patterns Yes/ No Rectification Needed Any Changes Yes/ No Required in Specs Needle no.
Colors Ord. Qty
Yes/ No Washed/ Unwashed Total Qty.:
Critical Comments:
Important Comments:
Auditor
Supervisor
QA Manager
Prod. Manager
282
15.4 Broken needle investigation report
Date: Style: Machine No.: Operation Name :
Line no :
Supervisor :
Investigation:
Checked on machine garment / garment bundle around the machine area search by magnate but broken part cannot found. Operation garment search by metal detector machine. Broken part not in garment. Needle replace with new needle.
. Compliance Auditor
Q A Manager
Production Manager
283
15.5 Fabric challan

Check List No.: ___________ Run Date: _____________ APPROVED KNP No. Bundle No. Date CPI Date Shade Size Qty.
Status
Total Bundle: __________
Total Quantity: ___________
284
15.6 Fabric inspection report

FABRIC INSPECTION
Name of checker Date Fabric details Bale No Points Magnitude of defect 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 Knots Slub Slubby weft Broken ends woven in a bunch Broken pattern Float Gout Lashing in Local distortion Oil or other stain Reed marks Selvedge defect Smash Stitches Untrimmed loose ends Weft bar Weft crack Bleaching spot Blurred or dark patch Dye bar Dyestuff stain Misprint / absence of print Patchy / streaky / uneven dyeing Shading or listing Uneven printing or tinting Water mark White spot < 1" Hole, cut or tear Total flaws Total points 4 4 3 6 1 3 0 0 > 1" 0 8 13 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 2 0 3 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 < 3" swati n vipul 7/4/2008 handloom 20 Length in meters Actual Declared Difference 2 3" to 6" 3 6" to 9" 13.7 13.9 20 cm less Width in inches maximum minimum usable 4 > 9" 44.4 44.25 44.25 total
POINTS ( per 100 square yards) =
No. of points calculated above X 3600 width in inches X length in meters X 0.914 84 APPROVED BY
CHECKED BY
285
15.7 Issue slip

Order No: Issue Slip Vendor: Date: Quantity
Sr. Item Item Reqd. Issued No. Code 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Prepared By: __ Auth By:__ Issued By:__
286
15.8 Preventive maintenance (Monthly)

Preventive Maintainance Monthly Schedule of Lock Stitch m/c M/c No.:M/c Mdel :machine parameters Month Month Month Month Month Oil Circulation Pipe condition Oil Pump Condition Oil Filter Condition Feeding Condition Shuttle Condition Thread Timmer Condition
Sr. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6
Month
Remarks
15.9 Preventive maintenance (Weekly)

Preventive Maintainance Weekly Schedule of Lock Stitch m/c M/c No.:M/c Mdel :machine parameters Date Date Date Date Date Cleaning with Air Pressure Needle Plate Condition Feed Dog Condition Thread Stand Thread tension spring Bobbin Winder Unit Oil Pads Fabric Trimmer Oil Level Checking and Refilling if Required Gasket condition Belt Condition Control Box Cleaning Padel Motor pulley cover checking Missing/Broken parts Status
Sr. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Date
Remarks
287
15.10 Weekly maintenance schedule for fusing machine

Sr. No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Weekly Maintenance Schedule for Fusing Machine PRAMETERS Date Date Date Cleaning by Pressure Oiling of all Searings Belt cleaniing by Chemical Checking of Belt (Tension) Oiling of all bushes Greasing of all Chains Checking of Limit Switches Greasing of all Gears Maint. Done by Incharge Sign Date Date Date
15.11 Weekly maintenance of steam press Preventive Maint. Schedule of Heat Press Mach.
Sr. No 1 2 3 4 5 6 Activity Greasing in Bearings Air Leakage Belt Tension Lubrication In Bushes Condition of Chains All limit switch working Oil Leakage from Gear Box Work Done By Sign of Shift incharge Date Date Date Date Date Date Date Date
288
15.12 AQL auditing report

Style No./Knp Color Batch Size Sample Size
AQL Auditing Report
Fault Type AQL %

1 Labelling 2 3 4 5 Safety 6 7 8 9 10 Presentation 11 12 13 14 15 Fabric 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Make Up 25 26 27 28 29 All Size Lables Co-ordinate? Care & Fibre content labels as contracted? UPC's & Sewing tickets as contracted? Country of Origin as Contracted? Broken Needle/Metal ontamination? Sharp Metal or Components? Animal Infestation? Neck Stretch to Spec? Pressing? Soiled/Stained? Chemical Odour? Hanger Appeal i.e. Crushing ? Packaging Printing or Dye Faults Flaws/Faults/Holes in Fabric/Lining? Shading within Product? Shading Between Products Yellowing? Floats on Embroidery Seams: Non Inclusion, insecure, cracking? Seams: Puckered, Grinning, Roping? Seams: Twisting, stretched? Needle Damage (Inc Laddering)? Collars, Pockets, Zips, Darts, Belt Loop etc Stepping: Hems, CF, Vents, Cuffs, Pleats? Hems: Dipping, Uneven or Inecure? Buttons/Buttonhole unravelling, Fraying? Elastication: Uneven or Insecure? Poor Trimming: Thread Ends, Fabric Fray?
No. Of Faulty Garments Critical Maj/Min Minor
Fault Pos.
2.5
289
30 31 32 Componentary 33 34 35 36 Measurements 37
Pockets clean & secure, level? All attachments secure & correctly aligned? Zips, studs, metal components: damaged? Are fastenings functional? Tie cords secure & to correct length? Embellishments secure? Broken beads/sequins? Critical Measurements out of Tolerance?
Tot. Gar. Acceptable Tot. Gar. Not Acceptable
Total Garments Inspected Audit PASS/FAIL
290
15.16 Broken needle record
291
15.17 Costing sheet
292
15.18 Daily cutting report
293
15.19 Daily finishing report
294
15.20 End line checking
295
15.21 Metal detector product log
296
15.22 Needle detector calibrations
297
15.23 OCR Production
298
15.24 Stitching inspection report
299
15.25 Style analysis report
300
15.26 Used needle record
301
15.27 Visual inspection report
302
15.28 Layouts
15.28.1 Production floor
303
15.28.2 Process flow of production floor
304
15.28.3 Finishing layout
305
15.28.4 Cutting layout
306
15.29 Mini markers
307
Learning experience
Training at Orchid Overseas Pvt. Ltd. Gurgaon, was a great experience and rendered us with lot of opportunities to learn about manufacturing of garments. Till now we have been learning theoretically but during the internship we actually came across the working of garment manufacturing unit. Starting from the order is procured till it is shipped to the buyer. We learnt the various departments working, their hierarchy, their process flow, terminologies being used. The annexures also benefitted to understand the plant layout, order tracking, material flow. Thus, we got a fair idea about a garment production unit. The best thing we learned was professionalism.
308
Bibliography
Books Managing quality in the garment industry o P V Mehta and S K Bhardwaj Apparel manufacturing: sewn products analysis o Glock and Kunj Introduction to clothing production management o A J Chuter Clothing technology from fiber to fashion o Europa Lehrmittel Apparel manufacturing analysis o Jacob Solinger Web http://www.apparelsearch.com/quality www.kinnaautomatic.com
309

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Final Report

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Apparel Internship Report 2010

Orchid Overseas Pvt. Ltd. 128, Udyog Vihar Phase-1 Gurgaon

Under the guidance of:

Address: ORCHID OVERSEAS, 128, UDYOG VIHAR, PHASE I , GURGAON-122001 HARYANA

Annual turnover: Rs.10 cr.

Ownership: RAJIV BAL

Monthly production capacity: 1.2 LAC GARMENTS

No. Of employees: 500

98 99 100 100 102 102 105 106 107

108 109 110 110 112 112

170 171 172 172 172 172 173

199 200 201 201 208 208 209

Learning experience Bibliography

1.2 Literature survey

Pre order confirmation

Post order confirmation

Style Season Item code Item Vendor name Vendor address

Fabric required Quantity Size Color etc.

Fabric cost Fabric Type Yarn Count Collar

Cutting cost Cutting charge

Embellishments cost Woven patch Printing Sequence Embroidery

1.2.2(b) Preparation of Bill of material (BOM)

THREAD REQUIREMENT WORKING APPROVALS:

1.2.2(d) Preparation of order file and maintenance of the same

1.2.2(e) Procurement of materials

1.2.2(f) Issue of materials to the fabric department

CHECK POINTS ON RECEIPT OF MATERIALS

1.2.2(g) Pre production meeting

CONDUCTING PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING

1.2.2(h) Production monitoring

1.2.2(i) Order completion report

MERCHANDISERS PACKAGE FILE

Trim card Shade bands Wash swatch/wash mocks Embroidery/printing

1.4 Process flow

Discussing order details with the pattern master and QC

Making of salesman samples with the help of comments on second protos.

Sending pre-production samples to the buyer.

Handing over of production file and follow up.

Chapter 2 Fabric stores

2.2 Literature survey

Fabric Issue for: Production Sample Pieces

Fabric Issue to: Cutting Department Sampling Department

2.2.1.1 Inspection procedures

2.2.1.2 Four point system for fabric checking

2.2.1.4 Shade banding A. None wash programs

2.2.2 Secondary survey

Okhla Nehru place(Gurgaon)

Velvet, corduroy. Finished fabric.

Poplin, yarn dyes stripes( mill made), printed cambric.

Chandni Chowk( Delhi)

Nylon nets, mesh, core.

Bharat Vijay mills Cocoon exports Arvind mills

2.2.2.3 Some general procedures

2.2.2.3.1 Fabric store process control procedure

2.2.2.3.4 Color fastness test

> > >

> > >

2.2.2.4 Capacity calculation

Total capacity of store

= total no of racks *no. of compartments *capacity in mts = 24 * 2.5 * 1965.25 = 117915.68 m

2.4 Records maintained

2.5 Process flow

Indent From Merchandiser

= total no of racks no. of compartments capacity in mts = 24 * 2.5 * 1965.25 = 117915.68 m